The Word Ho Chi Minh City June 2012

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

JUNE 2012

RICE.COM NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Children’s playground includes : Nerf Game HotWheels Contest Barbie Princess Transformers Competition Crayola Painting Contest Flash & Dash PlayDoh Cooking TenPin Bowling Mini Golf And much more ...

Contents

wordhcmc.com

JUNE 2012

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FEATURES 006 l The Prelude THE TALK 009 l The Big Five 010 l Just In 014 l The Buzz 016 l In the Papers 018 l Word of Mouth 026 l Calendar 028 l Overscene

034 FLIPPING

036 BATTERIES

INCLUDED

Meet the electric Vespa, the greener ride

038 RICE.COM Rice is more than just a staple in Vietnam. It’s life. Catch the story behind the wonder grain

050 CITY

OF ARTS

Skip the generic tourist spots and delve into KL’s artistic side instead

054 NEW

ON THE SCENE: RELOADED

The latest Saigon dining options for the discerning palate

058 FISH

OUT OF WATER

For the pescatarians out there, this one’s for you

062 SEEN

INSIDER 008 l Alive But Not Kicking

THE SWITCH

Remember the number ‘350’. It can help save the environment

AND HEARD

Want some audio-visual stimulation? Head down to The Onion Cellar

064 EYES

WIDE SHUT

Attendance at live theatre venues is waning

Hypnotism can cure phobias, right? Read on for the inside story

032 l Creature Comfort

Four wheels are better than two. Get your adrenalin rush with ATV quad motorsports

As little as a dollar a day can give these rescued animals a new life

060 l Mystery Diner Our sharp-tongued reviewer checks out some oceanic delicacies before indulging in some Algerian fare

2 | Word June 2012

066 FAST,

BUT NOT FURIOUS

068 CROSSING

THE LINE

If driving in town’s too tame, then time to take it off the road

Trivia Buff Answers See p162 for the original puzzle 1) In My Opinion 2) Maria Sharapova 3) Sooner state 4) 1605 5) Indonesia 6) Brains 7) Bow 8) Quark 9) Coffee 10) Bouncers 11) Keystone 12) Teddy Pendergrass 13) The Return Of The King 14) Safari 15) Hammersmith Bridge 16) Colonel Sanders 17) Silver 18) Topaz 19) Pegasus 20) Prince Charles

CITY GUIDE COLUMNS 076 l Live In Saigon 088 l Destination Zero 102 l Cafe Critique 106 l Foodie Corner 112 l Decks 'n Drums 158 l Map - Central HCMC TIENG VIET HANOI 146 l The Luthier Meet the man behind the hand-made guitars

148 l The Final Cut An old crumbling hair salon keeps snipping away

FINAL SAY 158 l Man vs Bus The bus is here. Time to hop on

164 l On the Stool TV presenter Thuy Minh sure loves to talk about herself

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

PRE-SCHOOL

PRIMARY

SECONDARY

EDITORIAL CHRISTINE VAN

QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

JOHN THORNTON

STEPHANIE CANTRELL

Senior Staff Photographer quinn@wordhcmc.com

Managing Editor christine@wordhcmc.com

Staff Writer stephanie@wordhcmc.com

Deputy Editor john@wordhcmc.com

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PAOLO MALING

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Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

MARK ALLAN

NGUYEN TAN LOC

Website Developer mark@wordhcmc.com

Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com

JAMES ALLEN

VU HA KIM VY

Online Editor & Features Writer james@wordhcmc.com

Staff Reporter kimvy@wordhcmc.com

NICK ROSS

Chief Editor & Deputy Director nick@wordhcmc.com

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Crossword Answers See p162 for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

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Applications for RISS IB Diploma Scholarships are now open for 2012 - 2013 74 Nguyen Thi Thap St, Binh Thuan Ward, Dist 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (+84-8) 3773 3171 - ext 121 (+84-8) 3773 3176 www.rissaigon.edu.vn admission@rissaigon.edu.vn

The Prelude E

at at home in a group, and in Vietnam a large pot of steamed rice will take centrestage, with all the fish, meat and vegetable dishes shared family-style among the diners.

And while all that meat and veg may be the focal point, the source of conversation and comment, the true star of the meal is, and has always been, rice.

Perfectly cooked — fluffy, moist, fragrant and of a consistent texture — it’ll enhance the flavours of everything else. Undercooked, overcooked or lacking in taste, it can ruin the whole dinner.

Either way, a home cooked Vietnamese meal without rice is simply incomplete.

And it’s this importance, the phenomenal significance

of this tiny grain, that has inspired our cover story this month. It’s more than just a daily eat, it’s part of the social fabric, a cog in the wheel of Vietnam’s past, present and future fortunes. So, while you’re spooning that tasty tiny white stuff into your mouth, we hope you will soon have a greater sense of what you’re actually eating.

Along with our ode to rice, elsewhere in this issue you will discover a host of new restaurants to whet your appetite as well as new playgrounds to take your bike for a spin. You’ll also see an ailurophobic face her fear of cats through the help of hypnotism. But let’s not forget that all of this wouldn’t be possible if we didn’t continue to protect the earth.

INBOX A SMOKY JOINT

(Mystery Diner, April 2012) After visiting Storm P I have to say that this was an extremely misleading review of a restaurant. This is a very smoky, narrow joint that also serves food.

The customers are 99 percent regular middle-aged Danish expats and one to two drunk and noisy Vietnamese guys.

The waitresses wear skimpy pink mini dresses. They are friendly enough, but the service is not great.

Food: 8 to 10 — I will come back for the occasional polse. They don’t have any of the great Danish beers, only watery Carlsberg.

Service: 7 — The waitresses seemed a bit bored and tired. Terrible uniforms.

Interior: 5 — It looks like a simple Danish lunch restaurant/pub, which I suppose is what they aim to be. The cigarette smoke is heavy in the air and smelly. — anon

6 | Word June 2012

We address that unavoidable problem with two features on climate change and one on the invention of a new electric Vespa.

On another note, we had a record number of responses to our annual online readership survey, so a big thanks to everyone that took part.

Expect to see some shiny new changes over the next few issues, as well as the announcement of all the prizewinners on our website later this month and in our upcoming July issue.

However, the survey wasn’t your only chance to get in touch with us. If you’ve got something say — positive or critical — we’re always pleased to hear from you. Just send it to christine@ wordhcmc.com.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION

JUNE 2012

RICE.COM NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Design: DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL CHRISTINE AT christine@wordhcmc.com

THESE HIPS DON’T LIE

(Is Saigon for Hipsters? April, 2012) “A hipster is a blasé semi-intellectual below the age of 40.”

Thanks for writing another condescending article on a topic that has been written to death over the last 10 years. As you say, “even you, yourself are most likely a hipster,” and given this vague list of traits that could apply to virtually anyone (liking culture and art, not spending a lot of money, sitting in a cafe, and adhering to current fashion trends), either everyone belongs to this detestable social movement, or the label “hipster” doesn't really have any meaning.

Why write this anyway? Who is this phantom group — the ‘them’ you keep talking about, the

‘wayward folk’ that seem like such a specimen to you? This piece oscillates between detached disdain to seemingly autobiographical affirmation, so where, anonymous author, do you stand in all of this?

New York Magazine did a famous piece on hipsters in 2010. For a more nuanced take check it out, www.nymag.com/news/ features/69129/ If you want to argue this point, feel free to find me in L'Usine wearing skinny jeans and gingham, using Mac products and reading pseudo-intellectual books that speak to my esoteric bachelor's degree. — D

FOR WHAT IT’S WORTH (Word, July 2009 to Present)

Leaving Saigon; must get rid of everything immediately! We are selling: — One bag of Sanicat Cat Litter — One bottle of Dalat Wine — Six lighters (Bic) — Back issues of The Word Magazine (Saigon edition) from every month starting from July 2009 until present Everything must go! VND429,000 or best offer. — Alexery

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

THE

BIG

1

Come taste the flavours from down under as the annual Australian Wine Show returns to the Caravelle (19 Lam Son Square, Q1) on Saturday Jun. 9 from 12pm to 4pm. With over 150 varieties of wine on offer, tickets are priced at VND350,000 and can be purchased from Vino (74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 & No. 1 Duong 2, Q2), Bacchus Corner (158 Pasteur, Q1) and The Warehouse (178 Pasteur, Q1).

If you’re in the trade itself, then there’s a separate trade show on Friday Jun. 8 together with the show’s annual wine challenge, a competition to unveil the best Australian wines on sale in Vietnam. For more information email chau-thuy.hang@dfat.gov.au.

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

Alive But Not Kicking Traditional stage performance is taking a battering. Photos by Dominic Blewett

A

recent article in the Viet Nam News expressed a concern that has long been affecting the performance arts in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

“With various kinds of TV music shows,” ran the piece, “audiences can stay at home and watch their favourite songs on television instead of going out for live concerts.”

Such a problem has been affecting a range of musical genres and figures within the industry. Well-known pop singer Dam Vinh Hung, for example, continues to self-fund his live shows at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House, while theatres such as the Non La Theatre, which stages traditional music such as ca tru and tuong, lost VND200 million each month last year. Hanoi’s Hong Ha Theatre often has more performers than audience while the music hall-style phong tra venues in Saigon have undergone a similar battering.

Which all suggests that live performance is losing out to the far-reaching prowess of television. Indeed, the fact that 2,000 TV serials are planned to be made this year in Vietnam as opposed to just 300 four years ago, suggests it’s through this medium that you’ll really be able to search out your audience.

8 | Word June 2012

Doom and Musical Gloom Without a dedicated Arts Council or large volumes of funds available to boost music and the arts, on first evaluation performance in Vietnam is at the behest of the market.

Advertising revenue from television helps fund the largest slice of the artistic pie — TV. And that artistic pie adjusts itself for audience ratings and viewer demographics.

All meaning that with the revenue stream going into television, live performance can no longer compete.

Or can it? In other areas performance is coming into its own. Take, for example, the recent MTV Exit concert in Hanoi.

Headlined by Simple Plan, the show at My Dinh stadium brought in an audience of 40,000. It also helped to spread an antihuman trafficking message — except for the CAMA Festival, few concerts in this country have assisted such a cause.

April’s SoundFest in Ho Chi Minh City also managed to pull in the masses.

Headlined by Big Bang and Taio Cruz, 30,000 screaming teenagers and young Vietnamese played witness to what at that point was Vietnam’s largest ever musical event. It has now been bettered.

And then there are all the smaller shows organised by the likes of RockFanClub or

those hosted at venues like Hanoi Rock City or the Van Ho Exhibition Centre, which all suggests that people are still loving it live.

And that’s despite iconic venues such as Vasco’s in Ho Chi Minh City throwing in the towel and putting an end to regular live music — they are turning themselves into a lounge bar.

Don’t Blame it on the Box Hence, the problem isn’t so much TV stealing the audience from theatres or music venues. Rather, the nature of going to concerts has changed, as has the market.

It’s become something for young people to do, an experience very much enjoyed by the country’s youth. Which means that traditional forms of music and opera either need to search out a new audience or find another way to compete.

But if you think that means artistic performance is being given the boot, don’t.

Take, for example, the water puppet shows that have long delighted tourists. And then there is the Vietnam Drama Theatre and the Youth Theatre. In an attempt to minimise costs and yet have the ability to increase audience sizes, the two are merging to become the Vietnam National Drama Theatre. They will be housed in a purposebuilt 7,000-seater, 1,200sqm venue in Hanoi’s My Dinh.

Which is the kind of response that’s required. Changing times mean changing interests and audiences. Fail to adapt and you will become a distant memory, a bit like most of the dotcoms that didn’t deal with the fallout at the turn of the millennium.

2

UP YOUR SERVICE

The ERC Institute Vietnam will host a customer service seminar on Jun. 29 with keynote speaker Ron Kaufman — regarded as one of the world’s most sought-after speakers on achieving superior customer service and uplifting service culture.

Entitled UPLIFTING SERVICE — The Proven Path to Delighting Your Customers and Colleagues and Everyone Else You Meet, the workshop takes place at The Sheraton.

The cost of attendance is VND12 million per person, which includes refreshments, buffet lunch and a signed copy of Ron’s latest book Uplifting Service.

For more info, visit www.erci.edu.vn

AUSTRALIAN WINE SHOW 2012

4

3

TROUBLE AT THE TROPICABANA!

The Saigon Players and Gaudi Restaurant (4 Thao Dien, Q2) present Trouble at the Tropicabana!, a dinnertheatre production by Tony Schwartz & Marylou Ambrose. Directed by Patrick Hughes, the event is an audience participation murder mystery.

Doors open at 7pm on Jun. 7, Jun. 8, Jun. 9 and Jun. 10 at Gaudi when the crowd will a get a chance to mingle with the cast as they drop hints about themselves and the event while answering questions. Then, following a three-course dinner, the main show will commence where it’ll be up to guests to work out who committed the murder.

Tickets for both the dinner and the show are VND500,000 (including one drink) and can be purchased from Gaudi. Proceeds will go to Helping Hand Saigon.

For info, call Jennifer on 0907 954093

5

EVERLASTING FRENCH SONGS

TDT-Event will hold an entertainment event called Everlasting French Songs at Ben Thanh Theatre (6 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1) on Jun. 9 from 6.30pm to 10.30pm. In addition to performances of classic French songs, the programme also includes a fashion show, French cancan, lucky draw and drama.

Tickets are priced at VND250,000, VND350,000 and VND500,000. Purchases and reservations can be made at TDT-Event (118 D2 Street, Binh Thanh) and Librairie Francaise (94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1) or by emailing info@tdtevent.com.

CANADA DAY STAMPEDE 2012

The annual CanCham Canada Day Stampede will take place on Jun. 23 at Parkland Country Club (628A An Binh, Q2) from 2pm.

One of Canada's most iconic events, The Stampede will feature a rodeo competition for adults, and games and pony rides for the kids, plus an all-you-can-eat BBQ and free flowing Canadian Caesars, beer, wine and soft drinks, and a chance to win flights to Canada with Cathay Pacific.

For more info, contact hcmc@canchamvietnam.org

June 2012 Word | 9

Just In

THE CALL OF NATURE Ngoc Son Ngo Luong Nature Reserve is home to an innovative new ecotourism destination. Located 150km southwest of Hanoi, in between Cuc Phuong National Park and Mai Chau, in Tan Lac and Lac Son, Hoa Binh, a range of homestays and nature and culture-based activities are now open for visitors.

The creation of this site was supported by the Spanish Agency for International Cooperation and Development (AECID) and implemented by the NGO Fundacion Promocion Social de la Cultura.

The area remains untouched by mass tourism and is home to Muong ethnic minority villages. Trips by car take around three and a half hours from Hanoi, and can be arranged by tour operators such as ACA Voyage, Handspan, and Topas Travel, or through the recently created Ngoc Son Ngo Luong Community Based Ecotourism Association.

For more info, visit www.nsnltourism.com

SKY HIGH Located on the 50th floor of the Bitexco Financial Tower, Strata has now officially opened its all-day casual dining restaurant-cum-café.

Guests can enjoy light snacks throughout the day, along with Lavazza espresso coffees, Ronnefeldt teas, fresh juices and smoothies, milk shakes and a range of signature cocktails.

Available daily from 2.30pm to 5pm, Afternoon Tea at Strata, dubbed Saigon’s ‘Highest Tea’, is a return to the high tea tradition typical of British high society. Priced from VND350,000 per person, it features a full range of premium Ronnefeldt teas, an array of gourmet finger sandwiches and sweet treats such as passionfruit cheesecake, mini crème brulee, salted carmel tarts and freshly-baked traditional scones with clotted cream and seasonal preserves.

Also available daily is the Executive Boutique Buffet for lunch and dinner. The buffet focuses on a small range of high quality offerings such as sushi, mixed cheeses, salads, sandwiches and finger foods, as well as a selection of hot meals, including lemon chicken with rice, stir-fried mixed vegetables and stir-fried noodles with beef.

Strata’s three private rooms have been designed with adjustable wall partitions, allowing various configurations (three rooms, two rooms or one large room) for business meetings, seminars, private dining/party or cocktail functions. All meeting rooms have modern conference facilities and a range of room set-ups is available.

For more information, call 6291 8750 or visit www.cirrussaigon.com

YOGA ANUPA STUDIO Villa Anupa has opened a new yoga studio on the first floor of its flagship store (17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1).

Yoga Anupa Studio offers classes for a range of yoga styles, including Hatha Flow, Yin, Sivananda, pre/post-natal, and yoga for mothers and babies, kids and teens, to groups limited to four people.

All sessions are conducted by three highly qualified yoga instructors and the studio can be rented privately and by teachers who require a space to conduct their own private classes. Drop-in classes currently cost VND210,000 while workshops are priced at VND450,000.

For more info visit www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa

10 | Word June 2012

TRAVEL IN STYLE A luxury bus service between Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh has started.

Launched on May 18 by the Cambodian Tourism Ministry and NagaWorld Group in an effort to strengthen relations and tourism between the two countries, a fleet of 20 28-seater luxury buses that include video and toilet facilities and massage seats will provide six trips a day between the two cities.

NagaWorld has also launched a three-day/two-night Free & Easy Tour for VND2,625,000 per person, which includes luxury bus transportation from Ho Chi Minh City and back, accommodation at the five-star NagaWorld Hotel in Phnom Penh, six meals and a half-day city tour.

In the future, the company will expand the bus service to Siem Reap and Sihanoukville.

For more info, visit www.nagaworld.com

ORDER AL FRESCO’S ONLINE

IBIS ARRIVES IN VIETNAM

Al Fresco’s has launched a brand new online ordering delivery microsite, and is offering 40 percent off all large pizzas for those that sign up before Jul. 1.

Currently available only in Ho Chi Minh City and open daily from 10.30am to 9.30pm, fans of the popular chain can now enjoy Al Fresco’s full menu and various weekly promotions from the comfort of their own home without having to go through the sometimes problematic process of ordering via telephone.

To register for the service, visit www.order. alfrescosgroup.com

Vietnam’s first Ibis Hotels branch has now opened in District 7. The three-star Ibis Saigon South Hotel, located at 73 Hoang Van Thai, consists of 140 rooms for business and leisure travellers, with free wireless Internet access, tea & coffee making facilities in-room, safe deposit box, and good beds. The hotel’s Open Restaurant offers a wide range of pastas and grilled dishes, while a 24-hour snack menu is available at the ground floor bar.

For rates and more information, email reservations@ibis-saigon-south.com.

INDOCHINE-INSPIRED TEA TOWELS Very Ngon Homewares has developed a range of hand-printed tea towels based on vintage Indochine images of the country from the early 1900s.

Prints include the Rue de Catinat (now Dong Khoi), the original Opera House, a Saigonese woman strumming a guitar and Duy Tan, the young boy who became emperor at the age of seven.

While the company commenced selling their tea towels at local charity bazaars, they now also supply a number of local businesses in Saigon, including Decosy and Feeling Tropic in An Phu, Diablo in District 1, and L’Atelier at West Lake/Tay Ho, Hanoi.

For further info email veryngon@gmail.com

A ZEST FOR FOOD Zest Bistro & Café (5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1) has opened its doors, offering affordable and quality French-inflected western comfort food. Located inside the Ton Duc Thang Museum, opposite Saigon River, Zest is open daily from 6.30am to 10pm.

All items on the menu are priced between VND42,000 and VND210,000, and include appetisers such as shrimp cocktail and duck pate, clam shoulder soup, grilled vegetable and Nicoise salads, as well as a host of main courses, including beef stew goulash, BBQ baby back ribs and paella seafood risotto.

Desserts include lemon mini cup cakes and chocolate fudge brownie with vanilla ice cream.

For more info, visit www.facebook.com/ ZestBistroCafe or call 3911 5599

12 | Word June 2012

TEACH AND TRAVEL Teach & Travel Vietnam (TTV) will launch its first programme in Ho Chi Minh City with the arrival of 60 teachers in August 2013.

Set up by David and Lyn Scott from English Language Company Australia (ELC), TTV gives people the opportunity to teach in a Vietnamese school, learn the Vietnamese language and travel around the country.

Participants will spend their first month learning how to teach English as a foreign language as they take their ELC Certificate in TESOL in a university campus in the centre of Saigon, followed by a semester teaching in a local kindergarten, school or university in Saigon, the Mekong Delta, Nha Trang and Phan Thiet, Hue and Hoi An. TTV has teacher intakes twice per year in January and August and expects to bring in about 250 teachers in 2013 and up to 400 in 2014. Training, accommodation, meals, support and activities are all included in the programme.

For more info, contact David Scott at david.scott@englishlanguagecompany.com

The Buzz

CARIBE

FLASH MOB FOR WORLD ENVIRONMENT DAY The Caravelle is taking action for the environment. Literally. A flash mob of up to 100 dancers from the hotel will storm the front of the Saigon Opera House on Jun. 3 at 9am to perform an upbeat dance routine in anticipation of World Environment Day on Jun. 5.

Staff, department heads and senior management will shim to the beat of Owl City’s Fireflies, Black Eyed Peas’ Time of My Life and Thao Trang’s Feel the Life during the fourminute routine, before dispersing to take part in a clean-up of the Opera House surrounds and front yard.

For more information, email mcm@caravellehotel.com

IT TAKES TWO TO TANGO Ta. Tango dance class will host a gala dinner and show party at the Windsor Plaza Hotel on Jun. 9. The three-hour event includes a buffet of cooked specialities, door prizes, social dance and Tango show, and an opportunity to meet Argentinean Tango masters Leila and Leandro Oliver, Tamara Bisceglia and Federico Paleo.

For more info, call Ziu on 0947 750576

14 | Word June 2012

Gaudi Restaurant (4 Thao Dien, Q2) will host an all-day Caribbean-style party on Jun 17.

Priced at VND375,000 per adult and VND200,000 for kids, admission includes free-flow rum punch and soft drinks, free-flow on traditional Caribbean food all day, including BBQ jerk chicken, oxtail stew, Jamaican rice and peas, and curry chicken, as well as entry into a domino and fusbol competition.

Taking care of the music, DJ Samurai, Daniel Thomas and Hayden Lowry will spin reggae, calypso, soca, reggaeton and Caribbean pop tunes throughout the day while John Forster leads a drum circle. Entertainment also includes live projections of the event, Jamaican movies by the swimming pool, live graffiti painting and more.

In the Papers

the talk

THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

VIETNAM’S BIZARRE SKIN DISEASE The Health Ministry has yet to identify the cause of a mysterious skin disease that has affected 205 people and killed 21 of them in Quang Ngai Province.

The strange disease is characterised by thickened skin (keratosis) over the palms and soles, causing stiffness in the limbs and ulcers on victims' hands and feet that look like burns.

There has been no disease in the world so far that is exactly identical to the strange syndrome that first occurred in Ba To District in 2011.

According to deputy health minister Nguyen Thanh Long, the strange syndrome might be caused by toxic substances that have affected malnourished people with poor immunity systems. Many fungi, in particular aflatoxin, which can cause

damage to the liver and even cancer, have been found in samples of non-whitened rice, which is a popular food for people in Ba To. Aflatoxin contents in non-whitened rice have been found to be up to five times higher than in whitened rice and in people eating non-whitened rice, the risk of contracting the strange syndrome is 4.8 times higher than in people eating whitened rice.

DIGITAL KICKS i-dosing is a new kind of music that mixes sharp explosive noise with other forms of sound and is considered a “digital drug”, designed to induce drug-like effects.

“This kind of music can be mixed by specialized software. I tried and I was shocked. The feeling was indescribable. Young people can be highly addicted to this kind of music,” says Nguyen Xuan Hieu, director of an audio company in Hanoi.

In Vietnam, i-dosing is shared among youngsters on social networks.

“My friends talked a lot about i-dosing. I downloaded it from the Internet and tried. It made me dazzled, giddy and buzzing in my ears,” a fan wrote on an online forum about his first experience.

This kind of music may harm the listener’s health and warnings have been issued in many countries in the world.

SCARRED FOR LIFE Vietnamese teenagers are opting for a new form of extreme tattooing called flaying. Flay tattoo creators use specialised knives to flay pieces of skin. After that they cover the area with chemicals and let the wounds turn into scars.

Nguyen Tien Hai, an experienced tattoo artist, says that Vietnamese tattoo artists are not skilled enough to create these kind of tattoos, so only affluent locals can get them by going to Thailand or Taiwan.

HO CITADEL BECOMES HERITAGE SITE NOT FOR VIETNAM Last month, the Vietnam Department of Cinema banned Le Van Kiet’s teenage horror movie Bay Cap 3 (High School Trap) because of its violent and vulgar content.

According to Ngo Phuong Lan, deputy director of the department, the movie was suspended because it depicts teenage sex and revenge killings.

“Such a movie is not suitable for Vietnamese culture and social morality, especially with teenagers,” she said.

Before the ban, the movie caused a stir when its trailer revealed scenes containing semi-nudity.

Earlier this year, The Girl with the Dragon and Tattoo and The Hunger Games were also banned from release in Vietnam due to sensitive and violent content.

16 | Word June 2012

The Citadel of the Ho Dynasty in Thanh Hoa Province will officially become a World Cultural Heritage Site on Jun. 16.

From Jun. 15 to Jun. 17 to mark the occasion, events such as folk games, a photo contest and tours around the heritage site will be held.

Located in Thanh Hoa Province’s Vinh Loc District, the citadel, which was a great work of architecture, was also the capital of Vietnam from 1397 to 1407.

FOREST THREATENED BY SUA HUNTING Three weeks after the news that sua logs worth VND300 billion were found in Hung Tri, people have been pouring into Phong Nha-Ke Bang national forest in Quang Binh with the dream of getting rich from sua.

Sua wood, or dalbergia tonkinensis, is a species of the fabaceae family found in China and Vietnam. Smelling like aloe wood the trees are insect-resistant.

The sua trees have been listed as an endangered species in Vietnam.

June 2012 Word | 17

Word of Mouth SUSHI, SALMON & WINE Saigon’s latest sushi and sashimi restaurant, Sushi Dining AOI (52-55 Ba Huynh Tuyen, Q3), will host a salmon festival from Jun. 1 to Jun. 10 that will see the unveiling of a new salmon menu as well as a special 20 percent discount.

The restaurant is also running a month-long wine promotion throughout June; ladies will receive a free glass of wine when they mention “Word magazine”.

RED ROCK LAGER A recent addition to the growing beer market in Saigon, Red Rock Lager has won a bronze medal in the “Best Australian Lager” section at the prestigious Australian International Beer Awards.

The Awards draws international recognition from the beer industry and showcases the commitment to excellence from brewers. Now in its 20th year, the AIBA continues to attract a remarkable number of high caliber entries from Australian and international breweries, with a record 1,344 brews entered from 41 countries this year, an increase of 10 percent on last year’s event.

Red Rock Lager is available on tap at Sheridan’s Irish Pub, 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

NEW ROUTES Low-cost air carrier VietJetAir has launched another new route, this time linking Hanoi with Nha Trang. The flight from the capital city to the popular holiday destination takes off at 9.35am and arrives at 11.20am with the return flight taking off at 11.55am.

Apart from the eight return daily flights between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, VietJetAir also operates newly launched routes between Ho Chi Minh City and Da Nang. The HanoiDa Nang route debuted last month while international flights through Southeast Asia and Northeast Asia are scheduled for early next year.

For further info or to book your flights, visit www.vietjetair.com

LUNCH : 11.30 - 14.00 DINNER : 17.00 - 23.30 (L.O : 22.45)

TEL: 08.3930 0039 MOBILE: 093 265 5716 (JAPANESE, ENGLISH) ADD: 53-55 BA HUYEN THANH QUAN ST., WARD 6, DIST.3, HCMC URL: WWW.SUSHIDININGAOI.COM

18 | Word June 2012

the talk

MASSAGE YOUR BABY Family Medical Practice and L’apothiquaire will hold a three-week course in baby massage starting Jun. 6 from 11.30am to 12.30pm. The course will be instructed by Karen Spencer-Harty, a British Midwife and certified baby massage instructor from Family Medical Practice.

Places are limited so bookings are essential. To reserve your place, contact L’apothiquaire (64A Truong Dinh, Q3) directly on 3932 5181 / 3932

A UNIQUE EDUCATION Saigon International College (SIC) is the first and only Vietnamese government international school owned and governed by the Department of Education and Training.

Founded in November 2005 and with one of the cheapest tuition for an international school, the college has a collaborative arrangement with the Curriculum Council of Western Australia (WA). The Curriculum Council controls curriculums for all schools in Western Australia and is under the jurisdiction of the Minister for Education Western Australia.

SIC delivers the Western Australian curriculum for all Years 10, 11 and 12 students, and all subjects are taught by qualified foreign teachers in English with the school year following the WA school calendar. For purposes of quality assurance the Curriculum Council moderates SIC’s teaching standards on a regular basis.

At the end of Year 12 students sit for the Western Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which is internationally recognised and is accepted by all Australian universities. In 2010 and 2011, SIC ranked among the top students in WA, and achieved the highest marks of any school in WACE for seven courses.

Saigon International College is located at 21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan. For more info, visit www.sic.edu.vn.

June 2012 Word | 21

the talk

GREEN COFFEE For those who love coffee and the environment, CentroFarms offers the perfect combination — top-grade organically-grown coffee from the Central Highlands of Vietnam. It offers the true taste of natural coffee.

Owner Cuong Van Dinh has over 35 years of experience in the industry with cafes and processing plants in California and even an apprenticeship with coffee farmers in South America.

He believes that “in order to control the quality of the beans, we have to have some control over it and cultivation is one aspect of that control. Our coffee, especially the Arabica is grown in the shade so we try to keep the trees around the coffee and not cut them down as many do in Vietnam. Conserving the environment is very critical for us.”

For more info, visit www.centrofarms.com or call 0902 988616

SMILES ALL ROUND Westcoast International Dental Clinic has revealed the winner of the 2012 International Smiles Art Contest. The Overall Country Winner is 10-year-old Bahji Nguyen, who currently attends the American School of Vietnam. Bahji was awarded VND2,100,000 for her efforts while the American School of Vietnam was given VND6,300,000 to donate to Linh Xuan Orphanage — an institute for taking care of orphaned HIV children.

BREATHE & MOVE Yoga master Paul Dallaghan, founder of Yoga Thailand, will host a one-andhalf day breath and movement yoga workshop at DanCenter (53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2) on Jun. 30 and Jul. 1 Open to beginners and more experienced yoga practitioners, Dallaghan will teach traditional Ashtanga asana (physical postures) and pranayama (breathing techniques).

The full workshop is divided into two sessions per day and is priced at VND2.1 million or VND840,000 per session on day one and VND630,000 per session on day two.

Email cat.walter@gmail.com for more info

22 | Word June 2012

INTERNATIONAL BACCALAUREATE SEMINAR ACG International School Vietnam will host a free seminar on the key advantages of an International Baccalaureate (IB) World School Education on Jun. 8.

The 60-minute seminar, which takes place between 9am and 10am, will provide a closer look at the IB framework, how it’s delivered at the school and how the programme offers a strong foundation for success at university. The seminar will also act as an opportunity for parents and students to speak about their experiences within an IB World School.

ACG International School Vietnam is located at East-West Highway, Q2. Registrations can be sent to myco.tran@acgedu.com. Alternatively, call 3747 1234

the talk

the talk

WIRED DELICIOUS DISHES SO YOU’RE A FOODIE, A tech geek and a traveller, and you’re craving a good meal wherever you happen to be in the world.

Well there’s an app for that. Foodspotting is the latest smart phone app for those who want to hit the pavement in search of their next meal, without the whole wondering around aimlessly part.

Going to www.foodspotting. com is like having high-tech food porn in your hand, giving you the ability to search for whatever food you’re craving. You can browse through pictures of the dishes and get treated to a host of reviews from other users.

If you see something in particular, like a plate of fried rice dripping in grease calling your name, then just click on the image and directions will pop up taking you directly to your next meal.

So far, a few foodie pioneers have used Foodspotting to create small guides to the food of Vietnam. Naturally, their spotted dishes include favourites such as pho bo, bun cha and banh xeo. But there’s more to Vietnamese cuisine than that and it’s likely that the fare here will soon be all over Foodspotting. If you want to be part if it, now’s the time to start.

24 | Word June 2012

SUNSHINE DEALS Air France is offering a range of deals and promotions for online bookings from now till Jul. 31.

Passengers travelling to Europe from Jun. 1 till Oct. 31 can enjoy a discount of up to VND4.2 million off on their next trip, while passengers travelling in economy class can save VND2.1 million and enjoy special return-ticket fares such as VND25,074,000 to Paris and VND26,040,000 to Amsterdam.

Passengers who travel in premium economy class can save VND4.2 million and enjoy 40 percent more space with special return-ticket fares such as VND40,089,000 to Rome and VND41,454,000 to Munich, while business class passengers can save VND4.2 million with special return-ticket fares such as VND70,980,000 to Paris and VND43,260,000 to London.

To benefit from the Air France Sunshine Deals special offer, visit www.airfrance.com.vn before Jul. 31, select and book your flight, and insert the special discount code as indicated on the website’s homepage.

For details and conditions, visit www.airfrance.com.vn.

HOTEL BOMB SHELTER OPEN TO PUBLIC

FACIAL PROMOTION Jasmine Spa (45 Ton That Thiep, Q1) is offering 30 percent off all facial treatments, Mondays through Fridays from 10am to 2pm. Call 3827 2737 to book an appointment.

For more info, visit www.jasminespa.vn

FREE CHAMPAGNE PROMO

Forty years after the bombs stopped falling on Hanoi, and less than one year after a chance discovery of an air raid shelter in its back garden, the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi has cut the red ribbon on the excavated bunker as the anchor attraction in a new Path of History tour.

The 40sqm bomb shelter has been preserved in its original state as a tribute to the hotel’s wartime employees, who ushered guests into the relative safety of the underground chamber from the mid-1960s through the Christmas Bombings in 1972.

The “Bunker,” as it’s to be known at the hotel, is open to guests and staff, as well as local Hanoians.

For more info call 04 3938 6999

The rainy season may well and truly be upon us, however Shri (Level 23, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3) is hoping to brighten up your day with a special champagne promotion for all Word readers.

For the month of June, the restaurant is offering a complimentary bottle of boutique Champagne Jacques Picard (priced at VND1,500,000) to customers that make a reservation for a minimum of four people ordering from the main menu. Tables of five, six and seven people will receive extra glasses of bubbly, while tables of eight will be given two bottles. This promotion is for dinner only.

Just remember to mention the “Word Champagne Promotion” when you make your booking.

To make a reservation, call 3827 9631

FASHION PROMOTION Thai fashion boutique Ethophen (89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1) is offering 50 percent off on its Palette clothing stock from now until Jul. 8.

Palette is regarded as one of the Thai leading fashion brands, with colourful, youthful designs on high-grade materials designed by the same Thai designer that founded the It’s Happened to Be a Closet brand.

June 2012 Word | 25

JUNE CALENDAR TUE

MON

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than June 10 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

WED

THU

FRI 01

04

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at Alibi

GBA MONTHLY MEETING. 5.45pm at Moevenpick. Email maianh@gba-vietnam. org for info

05 5

06 0

THIBAULT IBAULT CAUVIN. 8pm m at IDECAF. Visit sit www. thibaultcauvin.com baultcauvin.com for info

SALMON FESTIVAL. From June 1 to June 10 at Sushi Dining AOI

S SAIGON PLAYERS CLUB NIGHT. Every first W of the month at La Habana. Email Wed. saigonplayers@gmail.com s for info B BBGV BUSINESS LUNCHEON “2012 MID YYEAR REVIEW AND OUTLOOK”. 11am to 2pm 2 at Caravelle. Email events@bbgv. org o for info

11

12

SALSA CLASSES at La Habana.

Every Mon. at 7.30pm DAILY BUFFET LUNCH. From Mon. to Sat. at Strata TAPAS FIESTA & WINE through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

18 PRIME RIB STEAK & WINE COMBO (free glass of house red or white wine).

Every Mon. at Hog’s Breath

25

SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm & Romantic Night with Carmen & Brothers at 8.30pm. Every Mon. at La Habana HIGHEST TEA. 2.30pm to 5pm, Mon. to Sat. at Strata

LIVE ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon 30% OFF ALL WINES BY THE BOTTLE. Every Tue. at Hog’s Breath

19

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

26 | Word June 2012

CROIRE/DOUTER. Till Jun. 9 at Galerie Quynh. Email lisa@ galeriequynh.com for info

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Thu. at Koh Thai

HAPPY HOUR. From 2pm to 7pm everyday at Chile House (42 Bis Tran Quoc Thao, Q3) HAPPY HOUR with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

26

2 COURSE SET LUNCH for VND185,000. From Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

LADIES' DIES' DAY freee drink for ladies. ies. Every Tue. at Tamagoo

13

MODELS AND BOTTLES. 9pm every Wed. at Sin Lounge (22 Le Thanh Ton. Q1)

07

FATHER’S DAY BRUNCH with free flow bubbly. 11.30am to 2.30pm at Opera, Park Hyatt

TROUBLE AT THE TROPICABANA!. 7pm from June 7 to June 10 at Gaudi (4 Thao Dien, Q2). Email saigonplayers@gmail. com for info and tickets kets

14

SBA MEETING. Every 2nd Thursday of the month at Swiss Chalet Restaurant , 54 Pasteur , Q1

CHILDREN’S DAY AT KOH THAI. 1 free dink & dessert for kids

SAIGON SUMMER BALL. 7pm at Sheraton. Email saigonsummerball@ saigonchildren.com for info

OPEN DAY & FUN DAY. 9am to 1pm at RISS. Email admission@rissaigon.edu. vn for info

INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S DAY at Hog’s Breath. Kids eat free with their parents with a purchase of main meal

PASSIONATE KISS AT MOULIN ROUGE - CHARITY COSTUME BALL. 6.30pm at Sheraton

08

SEMINAR: KEY ADVANTAGES OF AN IB WORLD SCHOOL EDUCATION. 9am to 10am at ACG International School. Email Myco.Tran@ acgedu.com for info

PIANO RECITAL by Gabriel Tran Phuong Nam. 8pm at the Music Conservatory.

Email quynhtran0805@ yahoo.com for info

15

OLD SCHOOL PARTY TY wit with ithh DJ Konka. 9pm every Fri. at Boudoir Lounge, Sofitel Hotel

SEAFOOD SPECIAL & WINE for VND340,000 (free glass of house wine).

Every Fri. at Hog’s Breath

WATCH LIVE STATE OF ORIGIN @ Hog’s Breath and 20% top up VIP card, free pizza during the first half

SUMMER BEACH PARTY at Seventeen Saloon. Email caramelthy@yahoo.com for info

BASH@TASH with DJ’s Glaser & Dan K. 9pm every Fri. at Blanchy’s Tash

STEAK & ALE COMBO for VND250,000vnd.

Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath

21

22

BUY 1 COCKTAIL GET ONE FREE FOR THE SAME OR LESSER PRICE. Every Thu. at Hog’s Breath SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana THE RETURN OF THE BOOM BAP. 9pm every Thu. at Vasco’s

27

28 JAZZ NIGHT with Mariedel.

Buy 1, get 1 free on all drinks by the glass. 7pm every Wed. at Vasco’s

LADIES’ NIGHT. Every Thu. at Bootleg

HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm every day at Pasha

HIPS WITH DJ MR.10. 9pm every Fri. at Cloud 9

FRIDAY FIESTA. 9pm at La Habana HUE TO HOI AN ROYAL FEAST, 7pm at Park Hyatt. Call 3824 1234 for info CUBAN NIGHTS with Warapo Band.

9.30pm every Fri. at Pacharan CAT WOMEN. 9pm every Fri. at Xu

29

KICK BOXING AND BODY COMBAT. 5.30pm to 6.30pm every Thu. & 10am to 11am every Sat. at the Tavern

SAIGON CHARITY BAZAAR. 9am to 3pm at the Deck

UFO STREET WEAR - BASS REPUBLIC 2ND ANNIVERSARY. 9pm at Vasco’s

HIP-HOP WORLD TOUR. June 1, June 6, June 14, June 22 & June 29 at Lush.

Visit www.facebook.com/lushsaigon for info

LIVE MUSIC. 6.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien

02

BOCK BEER FESTIVAL. From May 30 to June 3 at Brotzeit (39 Le Duan, Q1)

LADIES NIGHT with Carmen & Brothers’ Live acoustic. 8.30pm ever Wed. at La Habana

20

SAT

FRIDAY DRINKS. 4pm every Fri. at Vino

UPLIFTING SERVICE. 8am to 4pm at Sheraton. Visit www.erci.edu.vn for info

09

AUSTRALIAN WINE SHOW. 12pm to 4pm at Caravelle

EVERLASTING FRENCH SONGS. 6.30pm to 10.30pm at Ben Thanh Theatre. Email info@tdt-event.com for info DOS OF WAREHOUSE. 8pm to 3am DOSE att 339 3 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh. Email soundsgood_edge@yahoo.com sou for details TAN BEAUTY. 7pm to 10om at Windsor TANGO Plaza.

Plaz Call 090 857 4882 for info

16 1 6

LIVE LATIN MUSIC. 8pm every Fri. & Sat. at Khoi Thom

SATURDAY SOCIAL with DJs Timmynator X and Grandmaster Gash at The Tavern BRUNCH & PREMIUM BUCKETS OF BEER: HEINEKEN, SAPPORO FOR VND260,000.

Every Sat. & Sun. at Hog’s Breath

23

CANCHAM’S CANADA DAY. 4pm to 10pm at at New World. Email hcmc@canchamvietnam.org for info

CANADA DAY STAMPEDE 2012.

2pm at Parkland Country Club.

Email hcmc@ canchamvietnam.org for details

30

COCKTAIL MASTERCLASSES ASTERCLASSES every Sat. at Koh Thai. Call 0918 264389 for info

BREATH AND MOVEMENT YOGA WORKSHOP. 7.30am to 4.30pm June 30 and 8am – 2.30pm at DanCenter. Emal cat.walter@gmail.com for info

SUN 03

FLASH MOB FOR WORLD ENVIRONMENT DAY. 9am in front of the Opera House

QUEEN’S DIAMOND JUBILEE. 4pm to 9.30pm at British International School.

Email info@bbgv.org for info DANCE SHOW. June 2 & 3 at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien (4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1). Call 3519 4490 for details

10 SUNDAY BUBBLY BRUNCH. 11am to 3pm at Strata SUNDAY PAELLAS & HAPPY HOUR. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana RACK ‘EM UP POOL TOURNAMENT. 7pm every Sun. at the Tavern

17

CARIBE. 1pm to 8pm at Gaudi

BBQ FUNDRASING PARTY. 7.30pm at KOTO (151A Hai Ba Trung, Q1)

24

GAME ON - SUNDAY DARTS at the Tavern

SUNDAY POOL COMPETITION. 2pm at Red Bar BR BRUNCH & PREMIUM BUCKETS OF BEER (5 bottles): San Miguel, San BE Mig Miguel Light, Tiger, Tiger Crystal for VVND200,000. Every Sat. & Sun. at VN HHog’s o Breath

SCENE

After a lengthy delay, Marky Ramone’s Blitzkrieg finally hit the stage at Hard Rock Café to a packed dance floor and raved out punk fans

PHOTO BY CHARLES BERNES

OVER

HEY! HO! LET’S GO, ALREADY!

MINGLE & WIN The pre-launch event at El Gaucho in District 7 for the culinary and lifestyle resort, Fusion Alya Hoi An, saw 15 lucky partygoers win vouchers for stays at the resort

JOSEPH SADDLER WHO?

PHOTOS BY EJ CHING

PHOTOS BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

PHOTO BY CHARLES BERNES

Better known as Grandmaster Flash, the hip-hip legend shouted and scratched the night away at Blanchy’s Tash to a crowded and sweaty audience before the power eventually gave out

PHOTOS BY EJ CHING

SONGS FROM DOWN UNDER STANDING ALONE

28 | Word June 2012

French artist Truc-Anh’s first solo show called CROIRE/DOUTER at Galerie Quynh brought out the city’s legion of art appreciators

Aussie songstress Zaiya graced Yoko for an evening of soulful ballads while on her five day tour of the city

June 2012 Word | 29

Peppy, a Javan pangolin who lost his leg due to illegal trading, is available for sponsorship at Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station

Insider

CREATURE COMFORT / BATTERIES INCLUDED / RICE.COM PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

CHARITY CORNER

Creature Comforts Help save Vietnam’s endangered wildlife by sponsoring these animals.

Words by Stephanie Cantrell. Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

"A

ll our wildlife is rescued from the illegal wildlife trade, usually in southern Vietnam,” says Simon Faithfull, technical advisor for Wildlife At Risk (WAR). “Due to all the species being wild animals, their needs, which include veterinary care, food and enrichment, can be costly and varies greatly from animal to animal.”

For example, an individual loris costs about VND315,000 a month to care for, whereas a leopard’s monthly budget is about VND6.3 million a month. “As you

can imagine our monthly bill is relatively high,” Simon adds. “As a charity it is vital for us to think of ideas to help raise sufficient funds to help feed the wildlife: fundraisers, entry fees to all our facilities, selling of merchandise, donations from caring donors and business sponsorship all contribute to this. Every little helps.”

Sponsorship is a terrific way to generate funds to help endangered animals in Vietnam. There are three wildlife rescue centres operating in Vietnam — Hon Me, Cu Chi and Cat Tien. All rescued wildlife can be

SUN BEAR OR HONEY BEAR Sex: One male named Misa Personality: This male is super confident and enjoys “bear socialisation” and interaction. He loves coconuts and mangos.

When it’s hot, the centre gives him “icy-pops” made from frozen watermelon.

32 | Word June 2012

sponsored on a monthly or yearly basis.

This helps the organisation to maintain rescue facilities, provide veterinary care and of course give animals the opportunity of possible release back to the wild after successful rehabilitation.

All animals at the stations have been saved from captivity with the intention of being used as exotic dishes in restaurants, as medicine or as pets in private households.

The following are available for sponsorship:

GOLDEN-CHEEKED GIBBON

BINTURONG OR ASIAN BEARCAT

Sex: Males: black; Females: golden.

Sex: One male All gibbons are born golden then turn black. The males retain Personality: y A nocturnal and solitary species, this animal is very this colour while the females turn back to golden when n they shy and a little grouchy. He absolutely loves bananas. He’s reach sexual maturity at approximately five-years-old.. a very strange looking mammal belonging to the civet Personality: All the gibbons have different family and is in fact the largest civet in the world. fami If you are interested personalities, just like humans. They are highly vocal,, in sponsoring any of “singing” from 5am to let everyone know they’re the wildlife please visit awake. This species is described as frugivorous, the website at www. meaning the majority of their diet consists of fruit. wildlifeatrisk.org or the All gibbons love bananas and mango. centre at Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station, Ap Cho ASIATIC BLACK BEAR OR MOON BEAR AS Cu II, An Nhon Tay Sex: Two males Sex Ward, Cu Chi. Their stories: They have just arrived at Cu Chi WRS Thei BLACK-SHANKED DUOC LANGURS and are both still nervous of humans (this will change Sex: Two males, one is called Banjo over time; they will learn they are now safe and will not Personality: Langurs are specialised leaf-eating monkeys nkeys be abused anymore). One is missing its front paw which was and are not as clever or resourceful as gibbons. They tend to get probably chopped off and sold as traditional medicine, and the easily distracted and bored with enrichment items. All langurs have other is missing its whole front leg. They were bought as cubs fat stomachs due to their specific diet (they only eat certain leaves.) from Cambodia and kept in terrible small concrete enclosures for Duoc langurs are very good-looking — they look as though they 11 years. have been painted.

ASIAN SHORT-CLAWED OTTER OR ORIENTAL SMALL-CLAWED OTTER Family group: One adult female and three pups Personality: All otters have been hand raised by Cu Chi WRS staff and are very friendly and cheeky (they’ll certainly nip your fingers if they have the chance.) They love eating fish, shrimp, small crabs and mussels.

June 2012 Word | 33

ENVIRONMENT

FLIPPING THE SWITCH Climate change isn’t everyday news in Vietnam, but organisations like 350.org are doing their best to make sure that it’s gaining momentum. Natalie Krebs sat down with the company’s Vietnam coordinator Hoang Thi Minh Hong to find out more about their work. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos What does “350” stand for?

Three hundred and fifty represents 350ppm or parts per million, which is the safe upper limit for carbon dioxide concentration in the atmosphere. That number right now is, in fact, 393. So we are well above the safe limit for our health and the planet’s health. The mission of 350 is to reduce carbon dioxide emissions and greenhouse gas emissions down to the safe limit of 350 again.

How can we reduce carbon dioxide emissions in Vietnam?

In Vietnam we are a developing country, so I’m not saying we have to stop all development plans or stop all the factories or anything like that. Because we are at a grassroots, community-based campaign movement level, we just want to inspire the public, including individuals, communities and business corporations to reduce their impact on the environment. More or less improve their green living habits by promoting behaviour like driving motorbikes

3344 | W Word Wo oord rrd d JJu June une ne 220 2012 00112

less often, using fewer plastic bags and practicing more environmentally friendly habits.

We hope to change people’s behaviour and awareness by getting them to think a little bit more about the environment when they do something every day. That way the whole [country] will be improved.

What is 350.org doing in Vietnam to bring awareness to the issue of climate change?

We are part of 350 Global, so every year we have projects and campaigns that 350 Global mobilises. Last year we had Moving Planet Day on Sep. 24. We encouraged people on that day to use vehicles that don’t require gas or fossil fuels. We encouraged people to bike, ride horses or walk, limiting the use of cars and motorbikes.

On May 5 this year we had a ‘Connect the Dots’ campaign. We used the image of the dot to represent, for example, a disaster or some effect caused by climate change.

We took pictures of communities suffering

from climate change, such as houses blown away or dried-up rivers. The campaign was to alert people to the connections between climate change and the natural calamities that happen in a lot of countries.

How is Vietnam reacting to the push for change? What attitude and improvements have you seen?

Well, last year when we started out people didn’t really know what 350 was, and it took us months and months of knocking on doors, going to schools and going to villages. Now I think people are a little bit more aware than last year. Also, the number of volunteers is increasing rapidly.

The great thing about 350 in Vietnam compared to other organisations is that every

single activity and action that we have has been built or developed by the volunteers.

They think of the current situation in the country, and they think about whether this is an activity that they should do or not — rather than doing all the activities that 350 Global is doing. You know, in other countries they would go to coal plants and say, “Hey stop using coal!” You can’t do that in Vietnam because it’s Vietnam. So we promote the positive side and good things rather than criticising bad things.

What are some of the other major environmental issues facing Vietnam right now?

There are so many. I think right now the big one would be climate change because we are one of the countries most affected by it.

Another issue would be the degradation of natural resources and biodiversity as well as the awareness and needs of some of the local communities living in the forests. [They] need to make money and make their living. If they can’t find any alternative income, they have to destroy the environment.

The general level of awareness is really low. Young people are a lot better than adults, though. A whole generation of adults like me lack a basic understanding of the environment because they didn’t have one in the past. [We] didn’t build environmentally conscious habits. The current generation is a

lot better. They are connected to the world.

They are connected to the internet. They’re more open-minded.

350.org organised Earth Hour. Tell me about Earth Hour in Vietnam. What brought on the idea?

We’ve been doing Earth Hour for three years, and every year it’s been exactly the same model. People light candles, go to the event, have fun and talk a little bit about climate change, and that’s it.

"A whole generation of adults like me lack a basic understanding of the environment because they didn’t have one in the past" This year we did everything differently. So for example, at our event we didn’t use any candles because candles produce a lot of CO2 emissions. This year the candles were LED batteries. They use teeny tiny lights and can last up to 180 hours. At our event, all of the lights use solar energy and we work with a solar company that provides all the batteries.

They put [solar] panels up that collect the sun’s energy throughout the day to provide energy for the event in the evening. We also use environmentally friendly materials.

Like for the backdrop — we used a coconut shell fiber [backdrop], which is totally biodegradable. We had something like 12,000 volunteers [at Earth Hour this year].

How would you like to see Vietnam in ten years?

I just hope that I see greener habits in everyday life. I would like to see no plastic bags in supermarkets any more. I hope that public transportation will be a lot better than it is now so people use fewer motorbikes and more public transportation or bicycles so the air will be more breathable. I would love to see more solar and renewable energy as well. Right now we have so much sun and we don’t use it; the trend in the next 10 years should be to stop using fossil fuels and use solar energy.

And we want people to respect nature and the environment a bit more. Right now, they think that because the house is theirs, they keep it clean. But look at the roads. Because [they’re] public, they don’t have that attitude of appreciating what’s public, and what’s in the surrounding environment.

To find out more about getting involved in 350.org check www.facebook.com/vietnam350 or www.350.org.vn

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TALKING SHOP

BATTERIES INCLUDED Christine Van speaks to Patrick Joynt, the motorman behind Vietnam’s first electric Vespa and Lambretta.

Photos by Mads Monsen

How did this idea form?

About a year ago a good friend of mine, William Sikes, contacted me about the idea of an electric powered, two-wheeled scooter. He had been researching bikes on the internet for some time and I had heard of a couple of early, very basic prototypes that never got further than the drawing board.

We always liked the idea of an electric scooter, but the ones available for sale inside and outside Vietnam are underpowered and were not attractive to us at all. The VTronic was born and a partnership was formed.

How were you able to convert the bikes to electric?

By taking an empty chassis and putting in an electric system opposed to the traditional petrol system. After a lot of research we found suitable components that we could utilise and which were suitable for the project but yet did not alter the traditional look of both models and still enabled us to retain that classic look. The fabrication work is extensive but we think the end result was worth the work, research and development problems.

If riders need to recharge, will there be charge points around the city?

Unlike cars, they do not need a special charge station, the batteries can be charged on any 220V outlet. As long as there is an outlet that has power, you can charge the batteries.

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Will you be converting existing Vespas and Lambrettas to electric or build them from scratch?

The restoration to electric will be done on Vespa chassis, but we are custom building the Lambretta versions from scratch though to a similar design.

Will you be able to turn bikes like Nuovos and Waves to electric power?

It is possible to take the chassis of a Nuovo or Wave and make an electric bike, but the cost to do this may cause people to hesitate.

We are using high quality parts to ensure that the bike will be constant and consistent in quality over a long period. We are using a lithium iron phosphate battery (LiFePO4), which are the best available, but it means that you will not have to change the battery until you have travelled 30,000km or 1,500 charges.

The cheaper lead acid batteries will lose quality after 1,000 charges, usually less.

Plus the LiFePO4 batteries are smaller and lighter. At this time, however, we are concentrating on our two main models — the Ebretta and the VTronic.

What are the cost factors in owning an electric Vespa? What are the advantages of this over the petro-based bikes?

As long as you have electricity, you can charge your bike. So you don't have to worry about the gas station being open or the quality of gas. We have done some rough maths, but we estimate the cost of running an electric Vespa is VND200 per

kilometre. Also add to that the fact that you don't need to change oil, worry about filters, seals,dirty petrol or fluids. The maintenance cost is low. There should be a few checks, but nothing as complicated or costly as a petrol-based scooter.

On a safety note, in Europe electric cars are noiseless and have caused many accidents because other drivers can’t hear them, do you think this will be the case here as well?

Our bikes are noiseless also, motorbike drivers use noise to judge if there is a person behind or beside them. Driving an electric in Saigon means you have to give a greater space bubble to minimise incidents. But we are developing accessories that can be integrated into the scooter to provide sound for the bike. But unlike your petrol bike, you can turn the sound up or off.

Will all your bikes be handmade or will they go into factory production?

All our bikes will be custom made to fit the order of our customers. It fits with our two core ideals: the best quality available and giving our customers exactly what they want. We also have demo scooters that are available to test drive that will show our base model specifications.

Another reason behind this is due to the fact that this technology is developing so rapidly it means we can constantly offer the latest high spec products rather than having out-of-date stock.

During the rainy season, will the engine be affected by water getting into the bike?

What precautions have you set up for this?

The motor can run underwater with no problems as it is a sealed unit, but if the other components get wet, the system will possibly short out. We put the components in water tight compartments and in the upper parts of the chassis.

We suggest that you don't ride your bike through more than 10 to 12 centimeters of water. But it will not have any problems in a downpour. The main battery assemblies are covered by the original style side panels and are well-protected. The central battery compartments and controller and battery management systems are fully enclosed below the modified seat base offering maximum protection.

If they break down, how will riders fix them as all bike repair places in the country only know how to fix fuel bikes?

The V-Tronic and the EBretta have fewer moving parts than their petrol

counterparts. So they are less likely to break as easily. The reason why the bike would stop is because either: A) you run out of power, B) a wire is loose or C) a system failure.

Problems A and B are easy to solve (no mechanic needed), but problem C is a problem that we minimise by getting good components and testing the system before we allow any customer to ride a scooter they have purchased. But to minimise this problem further, we highly suggest having your V-Tronic or Ebretta serviced on a regular basis. This is similar to a petrol bike, but it will be serviced by an electrician, not a mechanic.

If the bikes are electric does it mean they don’t require a licence plate or a driver’s license to ride?

Not sure! Looking into this at the moment. They 'should' be classified as electric bicycles but maybe because of the increased power they may be re-catagorised here. In certain countries they are unlicenced up to a certain power

output. This varies from country to country.

What other features are there?

The power is supplied by a brushless 13” motor that generates 3kW. This will generate a torque of 180 Nm, which translates to a top speed of over 60 kmph, ideal for riding around town and commuting, with the engine having enough torque to accelerate uphill and carry a ‘larger person’.

The charge time is approximately three hours and the run time, which will vary due to driving conditions, easily exceeds 40km, which most drivers don’t exceed on a daily basis.

We are looking into adding accessories that allow you to charge your phone, tablet, or laptop while you drive. Our first production models will be available in August this year.

What will be the average cost?

The cost will be from VND95 million.

For more info, visit www.saigonscootercentre.com

June 2012 Word | 37

COVER STORY

RICE.COM For budget travellers in Vietnam rice forms part of a cheap meal. But to the millions of Vietnamese in this country rice is not just a food, rice equals life. Throughout history this tiny grain has shaped the country’s culture, economy and diet, where entire lifestyles are focused upon the growth and protection of this staple food.

No doubt you’ve encountered it in various forms — fried rice, boiled rice, sticky rice, rice paper, rice noodles, rice cakes, rice porridge, you may have even come across rice popcorn. And there’s a good possibility that you’ve drank it too. For most of us, life without rice is simply unthinkable, yet it is almost always taken for granted. But not this month as we highlight how this golden grain fuels a nation.

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June 2012 Word | 39

published in Vietnamese, the first commercial rice crops were grown in wetlands around the northern Vietnamese village of Hoa Binh, as long as 11,000 years ago. He traced taro and rice crops to the same era.

Another researcher, Wilhelm G. Solheim — an anthropologist at Hawaii University who wrote the book Southeast Asia and the West published back in 1967, shared Sauer’s view. “I think when we study the evidence in mainland Southeast Asia, we can conclude that the maturity of the first plant in the world was in Peace (a village in Vietnam)... about 10,000 years (ago)."

Whatever side you take — we’re happy to give Vietnam the benefit of the doubt given our own sentiment — there’s no disputing the massive economic impact the crop has had on the people of Southeast Asia in the centuries since. Rice has become the staple crop grown by villagers to feed their own to a multibillion dollar international commodity, traded by brokers and exchanges and exported all over the world.

The Bowl

orget football rivalry — an easier way to start an argument between a Chinese, a Korean and a Vietnamese person is to place them around a table and ask them whose forebears were the first to farm rice.

The universally accepted view might be that rice originated from the lush wetlands surrounding the Yangtze River in central China. Most encyclopaedias will tell you that scientists and archaeologists have traced back the collecting of wild rice to somewhere between 11,000 and 12,000 years ago.

Organised cropping commenced somewhere between 8,000 and 10,000 years ago.

Koreans have their own version of history, claiming in 2003 to have discovered evidence its people were cultivating rice as long ago as 15,000 years before now. Experts elsewhere have scoffed at the research suggesting it is overzealous nationalistic sentiment rather than reliable scientific fact.

But research rice’s origins in Vietnamese and you get a third version of history.

According to a study by CO Sauer and

F

THE PRICE IS RICE With Vietnam now dominating rice markets in ASEAN, Robert Stockdill finds out the historic and economic impact this golden grain has on the culture. Photo by Charles Barnes 40 | Word June 2012

severe floods during the period, shrinking the yield of each harvest.

becoming number one In recent years, relaxation of trade policies has seen Vietnam transform itself from a net importer of rice to one of the world’s largest exporters — in fact in 2012 it could become the largest.

A staggering 92 percent of the world’s rice production comes from Asia, the majority from China, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Thailand, Myanmar, The Philippines and Japan.

China might be the world’s biggest producer of rice, but Vietnam is now the most significant exporter. For years Vietnam has played second fiddle to Thailand in export ranking, but in 2012 it is likely the tables will be reversed. According to the Vietnam Food Association, in the first three months of this year the nation exported nearly 1.1 million tonnes of rice, worth more than half a billion US dollars (VND11,130 billion). In the first two months of the year, Thailand’s exports halved to just 700,000 tonnes.

The US Department of Agriculture has forecast Thailand and Vietnam will each export 6.5 million tonnes of rice this calendar year; Thailand’s output dropping because of its policy of increasing rice prices for the benefit of local farmers which has increased the price on the export market, encouraging traders to shop in other regional sources. It’s anyone’s guess which nation will be able to claim to be the world’s largest exporter, and somewhat academic anyway, given that the vast majority of rice produced here is still consumed domestically. But bragging rights are nice — and the resulting income flowing into the country’s poorest regions, where rice is grown, can only help the nation as a whole.

Some 39.75 million tonnes of rice were produced in Vietnam in 2011 and of that just 7.35 million departed on ships. The actual export volume is likely to fall longer term, however, as India and Myanmar emerge as major producers in an increasingly competitive market.

Vietnam’s largest export customer is — ironically — China, which will take as much as 30 percent of the 2012 crop according to Vietnamese industry estimates back in March.

So regardless of which country was first to commercially develop rice, Vietnam can arguably claim to be the most important source today.

“For years Vietnam has played second fiddle to Thailand in export ranking, but in 2012 it is likely the tables will be reversed”

The heart of Vietnam’s rice production is in the vast Mekong Delta, sometimes referred to as Vietnam’s ‘rice bowl’, which accounts for about half the nation’s total production. The delta, comprising 12 provinces, is irrigated from the giant Mekong River. Of the 17 million people who live in the delta area, 80 percent of them are engaged in rice growing.

It’s also the cornerstone of the people’s diets, providing some 75 percent of their daily calorie intake.

Like many aspects of Vietnam’s commercial and cultural life, the industrialisation of Vietnam’s rice production can be attributed to the French. Colonisation is an expensive process so the French recognised that commercialising rice production for export would help pay the bills when they arrived in the mid 19th century.

The French built a network of waterways and canals to irrigate the crops, allowing three crops a year to be produced and easing the transportation of the rice from farm to processing facility.

Fast forward to the Second World War and it was the Japanese who plundered the product of France’s shrewd planning.

The war triggered a famine in Vietnam that ran from 1943 to the end of the Pacific War, during which time an estimated two million Vietnamese died from malnutrition or hunger, starved of their staple diet. The problem was made worse by unusually

June 2012 Word | 41

THE HARVEST Robert Stockdill finds out how the white stuff gets from the paddy fields to your dining table. Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

ccording to a Vietnamese folk legend, in ancient times rice was not produced but was granted to the people through fervent prayer. Rice would appear from the heaven in the form of a large ball in every house. On one occasion, a lady was sweeping the floor of her house, as ordered by her husband, to welcome the rice ball. Unfortunately, the rice ball landed in the house while she was still sweeping and it hit the broom and then broke into many pieces.

And because of this unlucky incident,

A

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Vietnamese people have been cursed with the laborious duty of cultivating rice by hand ever since.

So, just how do billions of individual grains become rice? By nature a rice plant produces just one crop a year. But smart farming techniques together with a complex network of irrigation canals built during French occupation in the mid 19th century have ensured today’s crops in the lush Mekong Delta can cycle up to three times a year.

Rice production in Vietnam remains incredibly labour-intensive by nature,

which is probably just as well given three out of every four people who live in the Delta rely on the plant for their living.

And three quarters of Vietnamese people’s calorie intake comes from rice.

The Gene Pool An astonishing 1,600 varieties of rice grow in the Delta, but according to the International Rice Research Institute, about 60 percent of the current crop is made up of just 40-odd core varieties.

We know there are so many varieties because Can Tho University has a gene

bank, boasting 1,250 varieties of nonglutinous rice and 250 of glutinous. Perhaps the most curious strain is “floating” rice, which has metre-long stems that allow it to keep its head above rising floodwaters.

Getting rice from paddy field to table is no simple process. Rice is a grain. Long, slender leaves bear tiny, wind-pollinated flowers. Within these flowers rest tiny seeds, 5mm to 12mm long and just 2mm to 3mm thick. These are what farmers harvest and mill to make rice grains.

Farmers grow rice by planting soaked seeds in flat beds, designed to allow water to pool. A mature plant will grow as high as 1.8 metres and when the grains begin to ripen the farmer will drain the fields ready to harvest when the grains turn yellow and the plants begin to droop.

More sophisticated farmers will use machines to harvest the grains, but the vast majority of Vietnam’s rice is harvested by hand and left to dry on racks in the fields in the sun or in commercial, artificially heated facilities. Fast drying is critical to avoid mould.

Once dry (with a maximum of about 20 percent moisture content left) the plant cuttings are threshed, or vigorously shaken, by hand or machine. This releases the grains from the plant matter.

Factory Made By now the rice production process will

“An astonishing 1,600 varieties of rice grow in the Delta, but according to the International Rice Research Institute, about 60 percent of the current crop is made up of just 40-odd core varieties” have moved at one of those points to a factory where it is cleaned and hulled — hulling is the process of removing the husk or hull. In traditional times, villagers would hull the rice by rolling it between stones to remove the shell, but today factories mimic the rolling process far more efficiently. Rough rice is first cleaned by passing it through sieves to remove the debris, with fanned air removing lighter matter.

At this point you have brown rice, still with a wafer-slim bran shell. White rice is produced by removing that shell via another round of milling.

Curiously, the conversion of brown rice to white has little to do with aesthetics: the bran shell contains oil that means the rice grain spoils faster. Unfortunately it is also rich in vitamins and minerals that are lost in the further refinement.

To address this, some rice undergoes a further process to create what the industry describes as ‘converted rice’. Sometimes this is achieved by pressuring the rice in a factory prior to hulling, transferring the vitamins and minerals from the bran layers to the kernel.

Alternatively, rice already milled can be immersed in a bath of vitamins and minerals that coats the grains, then dried and mixed with unconverted rice.

Once down to the clean, white core, the humbled rice grain is cooled and polished (believe it or not!), then sent to a final screening process that removes broken kernels. It is common to coat the grains with glucose to increase the grain’s shine.

Somehow the image of a villager polishing rice grains seems a little incongruous. So we can be thankful the industrialisation of a traditional village role has helped create a healthier, nutritious generation of such a staple food product. We can also be thankful that unlike so many other production processes on this planet, the mechanisation of rice production has benefited people’s livelihoods rather than destroy them.

June 2012 Word | 43

IT TAKES

ALL SORTS Com Tam

Rice needn’t be the boring ‘boil in the bag’ rubbish you’ve drunkenly shoved in the microwave; it can be fragrant, full of flavour and incredibly good for you, not to mention a great platform for a whole host of other tasty things from spicy fish sauce to sweetened beans and coconut milk. Words by James Allen. Photos by EJ Chung

Com Dep Com dep, or beautiful rice if taken literally, is immediately recognisable by its resemblance to off-white confetti. Although not technically a different type of rice per se, it is the timing that counts if the beaten out shape of com dep is to be achieved.

Picked just as it reaches ripeness, the rice is then roasted and in its softened state, bashed around until it resembles little edible snowflakes.

Often dyed green, you may know it as the shrimp dish tom chien com — a simple recipe where shrimp are coated in a thin batter then rolled in the young rice and deep fried until crunchy.

At the heart of the street food scene is com tam. Whether it’s accompanied with pork, chicken or some other meat product, it is by far one of the most popular ways to spend your lunch or breakfast money. Essentially (and for anyone who doesn’t know), the term means broken rice, as in broken, fractured, but not pulverised. It’s a haphazard break, generally resulting from the milling process or just being banged around in the back of a truck during transport.

In the US, broken rice once went into the beer brewing process, but this has changed and now the whole kernel is used. This leaves the majority of the broken rice as an ingredient used in dog food or as a commodity for export.

But in Vietnam, broken rice is both one of the cheaper types of rice for sale, accessible to people on a budget, and perfectly steamed, one of the tastiest.

Gao Lut Although not seen on many menus around town, gao lut or brown rice is incredibly good for you. Your average white rice has the husk, bran and germ removed which enables the rice to be kept for much longer periods of time.

The secret behind gao lut’s earthy colour is simple. After the husk is removed, the bran layer, which accounts for 12 percent of the kernels overall weight and germ, is left intact, giving the grain a nutty flavour.

However, due to fats contained within the germ, the approximate shelf life for the grain is around the six-month mark. On the plus side, the dietary fibre contained within the bran layer will definitely keep you regular and, compared to white rice, will give you more bang for your buck as the protein in brown rice has one of the most complete essential amino acid profiles of any vegetable crop.

In Vietnam it is widely eaten for medicinal purposes, usually accompanied with sesame salt to help alleviate a number of health problems.

Gao Nep Glutinous or sticky rice is quite an old kernel, 1,100 years old approximately, and the glue-like stuff has been the source of many legends. According to Xinhuanet news agency, previous claims that craftsmen in Shaanxi Province had used glutinous rice porridge to construct the walls of the ancient city of Xi’an, have now been proved true. Luckily for us, bricklaying isn’t the only string in gao nep’s sticky bow.

Often associated with Thai cuisine, the opaque kernel of glutinous rice is also very popular in Vietnam, generally used for xoi — a street food consisting of rice with an accompanying ingredient such as meat, beans or sweetened coconut milk. Xoi man, a popular breakfast choice, uses the sticky rice as a base for pork floss, chicken, cha, xuc xich and chili sauce, as well as many more ingredients you will find filling your little takeaway box, costing generally around the VND10,000 mark.

Gao nep is also the primary ingredient in a long list of banh (cakes) including the block shaped banh chung, generally eaten at Tet. Weighing more than your laptop, the densely packed rice conceals a pocket of flavour, and as with other xoi constructions, the rice is definitely the main player.

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Gao Den Black rice was once a much revered and sought after commodity — stealing even a handful of the stuff would have earned you the death penalty. It is for this reason that black rice also carried the name forbidden rice. In China it was set aside for the Emperor alone due to the belief that it was able to extend life. This made it ‘unfit’ for consumption by the wider population.

Black in colour and deep purple once cooked, gao den shares a lot of the same nutritional value with that of brown rice, but there are some marked differences. Whereas gao lut contains 8mg of sodium per cup, black rice contains 1,177mg, which according to livestrong. com is getting pretty near our daily suggested sodium intake of 2,300mg. Brown rice also wins out in the fat stakes, containing only 5mg of fat to black rice’s 8mg per uncooked cup, but in black rice’s favour, all 8mg of fat are unsaturated, whereas brown rice contains 1mg of saturated.

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CULTURE BY THE SHOT From crop to drink, James Allen finds out how Vietnam’s notorious rice wine is made. Photos provided by Son Tinh t’s pure firewater, and by most standards, it’s cheap and has enough whiskey power to start a car engine. It’s the traditional tipple of choice at celebrations, weddings and even funerals.

Markus Son, CEO and director of productions of Son Tinh Premium Liquor, has elevated this country moonshine to an international level with his award winning blended liqueurs. He shares his knowledge and gives us an insider’s look at the whole process:

I

There are six steps to making liquor out of corn, barley and rye, are these steps exactly the same as those used for making rice liquor?

Markus: The steps are the same for all cereal/starch based liquors. However, a very traditional way in Vietnam is to use a fungi mix to simultaneously do saccarisation (turn starch into sugar) and fermentation. That is the so-called country moonshine (ruou de, ruou quoc lui). Japanese also do that for their sake. Although this yields fragrant and complex liquor the

"Ruou de is country moonshine, ruou chuoi is naturally flavoured country moonshine, vodka Hanoi is industrial ethanol, and nep moi is artificially flavoured industrial ethanol" 46 | Word June 2012

fermentation is not clear, for example the liquor has a lot of impurities due to the actions of wild yeasts/bacteria.

Your liquors come in a range of tastes and flavours. Where does the flavouring element enter the process?

Once I have the clear base liquor I use it to mix it with the fruit extracts or infuse herbs.

The process of extracting the juice and flavour from fruits is the traditional Swiss process of making fruit syrup. Fruits are soaked in sugar to initiate a pectolytic process, for example the juice oozes out of the fruits. It also entails a partial fermentation that increases the fragrance and complexity of the juice (as opposed to pressing or using enzymes as in industrially produced fruit juice). The extract is then blended with the

clear base liquor. We never use any artificial flavouring. As for our herbal blends, we simply infuse the herbal mix in strong base liquor, stir and wait three years.

What's the difference between the likes of ruou de, ruou chuoi, nep moi and Hanoi vodka? How about sake and soju?

Ruou de is country moonshine, ruou chuoi is naturally flavoured country moonshine, vodka Hanoi is industrial ethanol, and nep moi is artificially flavoured industrial ethanol. In Korea and Japan there exists the same distinction.

On a side note, do you know that ruou de/quoc lui is illegal in Vietnam? It’s because they contain too many impurities and it’s impossible to certify with Vietnam's superstrict hygene laws (no joke).

FROM GRAIN TO GLASS 1) Milling Getting the rough rice grain from paddy to bartender begins with the milling of the grain. The grain is ground into a coarse meal, breaking down the protective husk and bran layers covering the kernels, therefore freeing the starch and resulting in grain starch.

2) Mashing Once the grain starch has been released, it is mashed and converted to grain sugar.

In order to achieve this, the grain meal is mixed with ‘pure’ water, which has been distilled numerously to remove impurities.

The resulting mixture is cooked until a mash is produced, at which point barley malt, a barley that has been allowed to sprout, is added to complete this stage in the process and grain sugar is produced.

3) Fermenting With the raw materials out of the way, the fermenting step requires the grain sugar

to be converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide by the addition of yeast. With the addition of yeast to the grain sugar, the yeast multiplies producing carbon dioxide which bubbles away and a mixture of alcohol, grain particles and congener (flavour). This pivotal process results in grain alcohol, a crude liquid ready for distilling.

4) Distilling Now the alcohol, grain particles, water and congeners are heated, and as alcohol boils before water, the alcohol will vaporise first, leaving the water, grain particles and some of the congeners in the boiling vessel.

The vaporised alcohol is then cooled and condensed forming clear drops of alcohol (distilled spirit). This will become an immature liquid vaguely distinguishable as beverage material, but still in need of tweaking and ageing before it gets anywhere near your glass.

5) Aging When it comes to liquor and children, bringing them up right makes all the difference. In the case of rice wine, sealing the distilled spirits in charred oak barrels encourages them to gradually develop a distinctive taste, aroma and colour over the years. This aging period is happily a much quicker process than with humans and can last from two to as many as twelve years.

6) Blending Finally we come to the last stage in getting the grain from paddy to bottle, and by far the most subtle phase in the process. To achieve the required taste and quality, spirits of different ages and those that are made from different grains are combined and balanced to produce rice liquor, a sometimes viscous spirit guaranteed to light up your taste buds with an accompanying kick that will certainly remind you you’re alive.

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FIT FOR A KING Buy your rice at the restaurant and in Saigon it tends to come in four styles. From your rice dish fit for a king down to ‘pavement’, ‘student’ or ‘dust’ rice, all ends of the spectrum are catered for.

Com Tam The Nitty Gritty: Tofu stuffed with meat in tomato sauce, fried chicken drumstick, Chinese-style xiu mai’meatballs, claypot egg and pork belly… Although we traditionally associate com tam or bitty rice with barbecued pork, a fried egg or two and cha, a minced pork, fat heavy, egg heavy style terrine, the variations on the dishes that can go with this iconic Saigon eat are endless.

Despite this, the formula is always the same. A large plate of steamed com tam comes with sliced tomatoes and cucumber, chopped fried spring onions and a bowl of fish sauce with pickles on the side.

Occasionally you may get pickled cabbage

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as well. And then, unless the serving is something like stuffed bitter gourd, which comes in its own broth, the meat and vegetables get ladled out on top of the rice.

As rice meals go, this breakfast or lunchtime favourite is one of the heartier.

Com tam, a bit like well-prepared couscous, is moist and oozes taste. Which all makes the wonder off-cast of the rice-growing world — because that’s essentially what bitty rice is — quite a wonder!

Where: We went for the com tam with stuffed tofu and claypot egg for VND32,000 at Com Tam 77, 77 Bui Vien, Q1. Other options are Com Tam Cali (32 Nguyen Trai, Q1, 236 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 and 449 Vo

Van Tan, Q3) and our particular favourite, Thuan Kieu (138 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Q3, 46 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, 26 Ton That Tung, Q1) Cost: From VND20,000 to VND50,000 a plate depending on location, availability of aircon and the quality of the meat / rice.

Chicken Rice The Nitty Gritty: Versions of this Chineseinfluenced favourite have appeared the length and breadth of this continent. Head to the once multicultural and important seaport of Hoi An, and the rendition of the famous chicken rice varies starkly with that found just 50km south in Tam Ky,

which once again differs from that found in Hainan Island to the north.

In Saigon three versions rule the poultry hanging in the window roost. Shanghai (Thuong Hai), Singaporean and Hainanese (Hai Nam). It is the latter that is the best known and most celebrated.

Although served with a number of different types of meat — roasted pork, roasted duck, sweet roasted pork and much more — the boiled chicken and the rice make this dish unique. The chicken is boiled not once but twice in its own stock, giving the meat a rubbery and yet surprisingly soft and flavoursome texture.

And then there’s the rice, oh the rice.

Slightly yellow due to being prepared in yes, you guessed it, chicken stock, there is a moistness to this grain, a slight oiliness that makes it moreish and great to eat.

And don’t forget the show that goes with the experience. Most chicken rice joints have a cleaver-wielding chef on the chopping board out front, who slices and tirelessly prepares the meat hanging on display. How these guys sleep at night and still have 10 fingers is all part of the secret of good chicken rice. Or so we are told.

Where: We’re a bit biased on this account and are huge fans of Com Ga Hai Nam at 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1. The chef with the cleaver has got long hair in a pony tail.

A good omen, we are told. The Shanghai version, Com Ga Thuong Hai, can be found at 21-23 Vo Van Tan, Q3.

Cost: From VND25,000 to VND40,000 a plate of chicken rice. Mixed with another meat it can cost slightly more.

Ready Made The Nitty Gritty: Think glass-fronted, metal-framed food stands piled high with

pre-cooked food. Look inside and see plastic stools and tables or these days, gleaming, chrome-topped tables and chairs. Discover a fan-cooled room that is grotty but relatively clean, all lit up by the requisite strip light, and you should just about get the idea.

What was once called almost universally com binh dan — meaning literally ‘rice equal to the people’ — has over the past decade or so proliferated into a variety of forms. Based on the no frills, rice-on-the-plate idea (com dia) served up with one vegetable dish, one fish or meat dish, canh (broth) and fruit for dessert (usually a banana or watermelon), one of the early variations was com sinh vien or ‘student rice’, a cheaper version that traded in nutritional content for cost.

Not great food fodder for all those brains at the city’s universities, but at least it was affordable.

Other cheaper variations include com bui, meaning ‘dust rice’ or rice you eat on the dusty street and com via he, meaning pavement or sidewalk rice, a slightly more refined version of the bui variety, but nonetheless, still outdoors and streetside.

And still cheap.

The cafes have also provided a great venue for the non-family style plate of rice to proliferate, with com van phong, office or business rice, a long-running favourite of the slightly more well-to-do.

Whatever you may call it, the standout feature of plated rice is literally that it’s all on a plate. When it comes to com dia, there are no chopsticks or rice bowls. Even if large groups eat together, the emphasis remains on individual portions. Which just goes to show that family-style eating is not as commonplace as it may at first seem.

Where: We have a bit of a contradiction here. Some of us like Minh Duc (100 Ton

That Tung, Q1), the mother of all rice restaurants. But this monstrosity of an eatery is no longer binh dan — prices here are high.

So, we will also pitch for a nearby favourite, Com So 7 (7 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1). Just don’t expect a menu in English.

Cost: From VND20,000 to VND80,000 a plate including canh (broth), depending on the setting, the location and how well known the place is.

Made to Order The Nitty Gritty: Think standard restaurants with menus and waiting staff. Imagine groups of diners all sitting at the same table, all sharing the same fare. Visualise a variety of settings, from the kitschy chic of the Khai Silk owned restaurants to the sleek interiors and aircon of Hoang Yen through to the more Indochine-like influences of Cuc Gach Quan and Hoa Tuc. Then there are the more imperial likes of Mandarine and Hoi An. This is where the hardy rice restaurant truly becomes a restaurant, with dishes chosen off the menu and the rice eaten with chopsticks out of bowls. This is true family-style dining, at least as it’s known in Vietnamese terms, where everything is shared. At the heart of the meal, as it is in the Vietnamese household, is always that bowl of rice. Forget bread and potatoes. This is where it’s at.

Where: So, so many places, but for now lets pitch for Hoang Yen (7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1; 148 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7) and Mandarin (11A Ngo Van Nam, Q1).

Cost: Per person expect to pay anything from VND150,000 to VND750,000, depending on the length of the meal, how much seafood gets involved, the type of restaurant and how you fare on the beverage front.

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DESTINATION

CITY OF ART A trip to Kuala Lumpur need not be focused on Chinatown, The Petronas Towers and the Golden Triangle. This is a city with a booming arts scene. Rachel Jenagaratnam speaks to the industry folk and discovers that there are only more exciting times ahead

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F

irst thoughts on Kuala Lumpur — known as KL locally — usually steer towards the city’s record-breaking twin towers and its street food. But the city’s more recent developments see its cultural side stealing the limelight. Things are a far cry from what they were even 10 years ago, with young fine art graduates now finding themselves on fertile ground to hone their craft, gallerists busy plying their trade, and collectors and the general public enjoying lots of great art.

So just what is KL’s art scene like?

“Malaysia is a multi-racial society, therefore the diversity makes for good ingredients in terms of aesthetics and histories,” argues Nazli Aziz of Galeri Chandan (www. galerichandan.com). His gallery is one of those to have popped up in the last few years, and he’s benefitted from the changing currents.

“Commercially, I would say that it is ‘healthy’,” he adds. “There is a much broader appreciation of art, the market is evolving well, and art is now beginning to be traded and validated in the secondary market. This is a good foundation for growth.”

Other gallery owners also note the positive changes in the industry.

“It has been an exhilarating time for the industry as we have seen many positive developments over the last decade,” says gallery owner Lim Wei-Ling. “[We’ve seen the] introduction of more discerning collectors and a growing number of artists who refuse to compromise on their art for the sake of commercialism.” Running Wei-Ling Gallery and Wei-Ling Contemporary (www. weiling-gallery.com), Lim boasts almost a decade’s worth of experience both supporting and promoting contemporary Malaysian art.

Serious Business Things getting more serious means that contemporary artists in KL have begun to elevate their practice — the business side included — to a more sophisticated level too, she says.

“Most of the artists I work with only produce between 12 to 15 pieces over a course of two years. More often than not, there are not enough works for collectors as there is not enough supply to meet the demand. As a result, prices of artworks have appreciated significantly over the last six years”. Still, prices in KL are still fairly reasonable compared to contemporary art from China or

India, for instance. Works by emerging artists cost from RM1,800 to RM12,000 (VND12 million to VND80 million), but ballpark figures for senior artists will set you back RM20,000 to RM150,000 (VND135 million to VND1 billion) — sometimes much more.

And you’ll be spoilt for choice over where to go for your purchase, as Bayu Utomo Radjikin points out. Galleries have been mushrooming over the city.

“I think KL’s art scene has been very vibrant for the last five to ten years,” he observes. He’s in the right place to comment.

An established artist himself, Bayu helms the art space HOM (houseofmatahati.blogspot. com) in Ampang, a surburb of KL. “It’s more exciting today and the audiences are more curious too,” he adds, going back to the simple calculation that more galleries mean more artists and more exhibitions. “You need that buzz,” he concludes.

At HOM, the key to their programmes is on nurturing young artists, and the gallery is also big on exchange — they have three residency programmes, including the Open Residency, which allows any artist to set up camp at their studios for a specific period. To date, they’ve hosted artists from Brazil and

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Latvia, while artists from Indonesia and the Philippines have been part of their regional residency called SAGE. But it’s not just the galleries and their stable of artists who are enriching the local art scene.

Recent developments have also come by way of new events that add colour and clout to the industry, the very sort it needs to capture international attention.

The art fair Art Expo Malaysia takes place annually around the end of October and attracts international galleries, eager to have a share of the pie that is the advancing art market here. And to boot, the Malaysian government has been marketing contemporary art as a tourism product through its annual 1Malaysia Contemporary Art Tourism Festival — advertisements for the festival have been spotted as far away as Europe.

Local aficionados, however, have had their eyes and ears peeled to developments at home, especially the pounding of hammers at Henry Butcher Art Auction Malaysia. Its third installment was just this May, and this year’s outing garnered a standing-roomonly crowd and eager bidding that totalled RM4million in sales (about VND27.3 billion) and a RM797,500 (VND5.45 billion) hammer

INFORMATION GETTING THERE AirAsia offer cheap flights to and from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to Kuala Lumpur. Go to www. airasia.com. Return flights can be bought for as little as VND2.5 million. Alternatively, return flights with Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) start at just under VND5 million. Kuala Lumpur acts as a great hub for travelling onto other locations in the region.

ACCOMMODATION Check out the following websites: www.kl-hotels.com www.agoda.com www.malaysiabudgethotel.com www.kualalumpurbudgethotel.com

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sale for the late Malaysian artist Ibrahim Hussein’s abstract painting Red, Orange and Core (1984). So clearly, big bucks — or make that Ringgit — are at stake here. In fact, forecasts are so promising that the auctioneers have even decided to make their auction a twice-yearly affair.

Altered Perspectives The marked boom in KL’s art scene has undoubtedly changed things. There are now art events or openings every other day of the week, and those in the industry remark that it’s sometimes a struggle to attend them all; it’s not unknown for someone to squeeze in two or three openings in a single night, just to stay in the loop. But one big problem remains — Joe Public is struggling to attend these events himself. The notion of art appreciation isn’t nationwide (KL remains the hub, with its northern counterpart, Penang quickly catching up), and the average individual will still struggle to name five Malaysian artists off the cuff. In short, the old adage that art is only for the one

percent remains.

Working against this problem are two salient individuals on the art scene, Nani Kahar and Peter Kiernan. The architects behind labDNA, they have been the creative and conceptual brains behind landmark art spaces in the city. Their first project from 2007, Annexe Gallery, made great headway in terms of altering the city’s cultural landscape, as well as rejuvenating a part of KL’s city centre that had a rep for being a little rough around the edges.

“We’re more interested in creating social spaces,” argues Peter, now busy with Nani spearheading creative matters at Publika (www.publika.com.my), KL’s latest retail and commercial development. Publika is unique in that art and culture was central to its blueprints, and it’s already made a discernable difference to the city’s cultural landscape in the short time that it’s been around; they run a busy schedule that balances events from all across the cultural spectrum (so it’s not just the visual arts), and they have also secured a high number of art

tenants for the development; art galleries like Segaris, RA Fine Arts, and even Nazli’s aforementioned gallery have all set up base here, the latter two abandoning previous spots elsewhere in KL. Publika know that their main audience is the general public, so public art here is a priority. There are artist-designed murals within the actual retail space, installation art in the mall, and even artworks that were made from the construction site’s electrical spools around the development.

Theirs is a bona fide case of ‘if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em’, and just how close have they brought art to the people? Very, as even the public toilets here feature specially-commissioned artworks.

Peter and Nani speak about their efforts being firmly rooted in the principles of egalitarianism, and they argue that it’s about “adjusting eyes” and getting the public attuned to art’s many possibilities. Arguably, theirs is a slow but pertinent revolution, but with so much optimism in their voices, it’s safe to say that KL is experiencing great shifts in its art scene. And with all the good people in the industry, it’s also safe to say that KL’s art scene has the prospect of an even more exciting future.

WHAT'S ON To find out what's going on in the KL arts scene, check out the following websites: TIME OUT KUALA LUMPUR ARTS SECTION www.timeoutkl.com/art THE KUALA LUMPUR PERFORMING ARTS CENTRE www.klpac.org VISON KL www.visionkl.com EXPAT KL (click on the events link) www.expatkl.com ART MALAYSIA www.artmalaysia.com.my

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OUT & ABOUT

New on the Scene: Reloaded New restaurants seem to be a dime a baker’s dozen these days. We sift through the contenders for gastronomic supremacy and separate the good apples from the bad.

Words by Nick Ross

T

here used to be a “build it and they will come” attitude in this city — just having the bricks, mortar, space and location was deemed enough to suck in the undiscerning punter. But as this latest culinary journey has demonstrated, except for in The Pham, where tourists come once, eat, spend their dollars and never return, most of the other eateries coming to Saigon have been put together with thought, passion and a surprising amount of care. It’s a transformation that bodes well.

The following is a rundown of what’s out there:

One of El Gato Negro's burritos in its full glory - the huevos rancheros

made with local beef. You’d never know.”

He’s correct, you wouldn’t. It’s one of the best I’ve had in this city. The pulled pork is tasty, too.

Main courses run between VND100,000 and VND150,000.

EL GATO NEGRO

SCOTT & BINH'S Bizu Hotel, 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Hung Phuoc 1, Q7 If you know Scott Marquis you will know that Binh is the owner of Bizu Hotel, where the restaurant is located. You’ll also know two other things about him — his passion for good cuisine and his principles.

He describes his cuisine as “comfort food with a twist”. Opened several months, this Saigon South restaurant is full almost every night.

That this eatery has done so well is as much to do with the creativity of the cuisine — international but with a Vietnamese twist — as it is to do with the setting. A leafy but shaded patio area out front with wooden garden furniture is complemented by an indoor, aircon dining space with purple velvet upholstered seating, low lighting and brown woods.

It’s an attractive space.

“I try to use as many Vietnamese ingredients as possible,” explains Scott as I tuck into the surprisingly juicy, Pulp Fiction-esque Royale with Cheese. “I order the patties especially for this burger — it’s

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American chef Scott Marquis proudly shows off his pulled pork

182A Pasteur, Q1 Geoffrey Deetz, responsible for Black Cat, probably the city’s best-known burger restaurant, and also behind many another restaurant venture in this country, is now back in Saigon following a hiatus in Hanoi with his latest offering, the burrito joint El Gato Negro.

El Gato Negro may only be a small, holein-the-wall style takeaway joint — the kind of place you pop in for that dose of comfort food — but with an efficient delivery service to back it up, the cuisine here is something to talk about.

The key, of course is, the burritos.

Besides being onehelluva mouthful — these foil-wrapped mothers are huge — the variety available is startling. From the grilled lime chicken (VND155,000) through to the huevos rancheros (VND150,000), the carnitas fried pork and the Baja shrimp, it seems that every taste and palate is catered for. And it doesn’t stop there. A range of quesadillas (from VND70,000) make up the menu as well as recently added specials such as the tortilla soup (VND90,000).

Oh, and then there are the home pickled jalapenos and a formidable selection of

chilli sauces on the side.

We’ve even got a delivery phone number for you — 6660 1577.

LA CASA 40A Bui Vien, Q1 Some additions to the dining scene are worth shouting about, others are a little less well thought out. At least in some respects. Take the recently opened La Casa on Bui Vien. With its quite phenomenal open air, corner location, so much is correct here — the terracottatiled terrace, the mosaic table tops, the Tex-Mex cartoon-like Spanish theme and the Spaghetti Western costumes of the waiting staff. But boasting a menu whose first dish is an all day Irish breakfast — not exactly a Hispanic staple — is foreboding.

Key, as ever, is the cuisine. In a restaurant that seems to put as much thought in its Vietnamese noodle soup, pizza, pasta and “bugers” as it does in its chimichangas, burritos and tacos, you’re never going to get top notch. The beef burrito (VND99,000) explained to me why, except for some notable exceptions, you shouldn’t eat in The Pham. Taste-wise it was fine, but the meat, vegetables, salsa and beans were given short thrift, making this into no more than beef fried rice wrapped in a soft taco.

If you’re going to eat somewhere like La Casa, you’re trading off price and location for quality.

BERRU RESTAURANT & COFFEE SHOP 264 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: 0932 467798 Restaurants from unusual, exotic climes opening in strange, slightly decentralised locations seems to be a theme in this city, and the Turkish-run Berru is the latest of this ilk. Located just off the ‘soon to be redeveloped’ section of District 2, and on the wrong side of An Phu, this sleepy, family-run eatery is set in a leafy, shaded courtyard with an open-air, fan-cooled dining area and a long, rock covered water feature.

The cuisine, while lacking many of the ingredients so readily available in Turkey, remains surprisingly authentic.

No attempt has been made to adapt it to local or European tastes. Instead the chefs here have made do with what is available in this city and taken it from there. It’s not perfect but it works. And the flavours typical of this cuisine shine through. From the fatty but tasty borek — a typical Turkish breakfast dish found all over Istanbul — through to a range of doners, kofte, shish (called sis on the menu here), durum wraps and Turkish-style, yoghurt-based salads, mains go for between VND80,000 and VND150,000. Portions are big, too.

MAY RESTAURANT 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1 “When I first came back to Vietnam in 2007, I could find the dishes but not the taste,” says French restaurateur, Thai Tu

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influenced, with a clean taste and a clean look, while Gabriel’s is North American contemporary cuisine. We’re mixing the two.”

A quick taste of the pan roasted black cod with capers, olive, lemon and Dalat artichoke heart (VND580,000), and you can see what he means. The contrasting flavours here are subtle but blend effortlessly — the overall taste is typical of much of the contemporary, fine-dining fare you would find in Northern Europe. This is not rocket science or culinary chemistry.

This is a simple dish done well. And then there’s the wagyu burger off the snack menu.

“The menu’s been well-received,” adds Casper. “We're changing it constantly, trying to make new things”.

KHOI THOM

Zero's signature tasting plate (top) and the ploughman's lunch

Tho. Born to a Vietnamese father and French-Italian mother, she grew up on home-cooked Vietnamese cuisine.

May, meaning cloud in English, is decorated with the Indochine panache of the early 20th century. It’s spacious, using both pastel and darker shades of blue together with dark brown to create its ambience. Such is the determination to get it right that Tu Tho’s father flew in from France to train all the staff.

Set in the unlikeliest of areas — a villa just off the working class apartment blocks — all the cuisine here is MSGfree. Likewise, all the sauces and master broths are homemade, without the use of bouillon or stock cubes.

Other aspects that make May unique include the rice. Coming only from a particular farm, Tu Tho has bought the stock for the whole year.

The key, though, is the cuisine and Tu Tho points to a few dishes as the restaurant’s specialities — the cha gio (spring rolls), which are made from a recipe popular in the 1940s, the homemade tofu and the French-style, pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger.

One of the more interesting additions to the dining scene, May has the potential

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Chill Skybar's Gabriel Boyer plates up the pan roasted black cod

to be a real hit. Prices are reasonable, too.

ZERO 15 Dong Du, Q1 The experience of creating and running Zero has been a learning curve for Stephen McGrath and his wife Leanne. When they first opened the non-smoking, two-storey restaurant at the turn of the New Year, they were new to the industry. They were also plying the trade with an unknown chef.

Yet, return a few months on and you find a restaurant that is now in its stride and has settled into its own little niche.

The original head chef lasted a month, and yet the present man at the helm, Phong, was there from day one. Zero is doing well.

“We're constantly looking for that dish that people are missing,” says Stephen. For example, we’re doing baked potatoes with a Bolognese sauce and melted cheese in the oven. Nowhere else in town seems to do this and the customers love it.”

From our little trip town to Zero, we went for the Ploughman’s lunch (VND225,000), a real treat. And then we got our chops into the signature tasting plate (VND249,000). Containing eight different dishes including Australian steak bites, passion fruit 'n honey wings, prawns

wrapped in bacon, pork ribs, and mango and prawn salad, this expresses what Zero does well — international-style comfort food with that little Vietnamese twist.

As well as a good value three-course set lunch for VND185,000, Wednesday nights and Sunday afternoons are home to live music, with the set alternating between jazz and rock.

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Chill is new but not that new. The awardwinning bar and restaurant has been wooing punters with its 26th-floor views, lavish décor and pricey drinks for well over six months, now. The reason for its inclusion here is its restaurant, which has just undergone a makeover.

The change in concept is partly a result of moving the restaurant upstairs, a setting described as more “intimate”.

More importantly is the arrival of two new chefs — American head chef Gabriel Boyer and Danish sous chef Casper Gustafsen.

Together they’ve torn apart the menu and started again. The issue, it seems, is that the previous chef “was putting 1,000 things on the same plate”.

“All we’ve done is simplify the dishes,” says Casper. “My style is very Nordic-

29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Take every garish, highlighter colour under the sun, put it together to create something tasteful, and you have the open-air Khoi Thom, a restaurant in the fusing Mexican and Vietnamese cuisine.

The eye-catching décor —apparently it’s inspired by the work of Ricardo Legorreta, a renowned Mexican architect who combined the vibrant colours of his country with modernism. Such a combination, it seems, has been extended to Khoi Thom’s cuisine.

“We’re trying to introduce Mexican food and drink to the Vietnamese while making it accessible for foreigners,” explains restaurant manager Dany Sou as he runs us through the menu.

The Mexican-style muc nuong (barbecued squid), for example, is cooked with lemongrass, as are the beef skewers, while the BBQ fish and prawns are marinated in tequila. The BBQ sausage they use is the sweet, Vietnamese-style sausage. Likewise the fajitas are served with salt, pepper and kumquat (as well as sour cream), a variation typical of Vietnam.

In the evening Khoi Thom really comes into its own. With Latin music playing in the background, cocktails, Corona beer with that squeeze of lime and a gentle breeze running through the restaurant, there is just this sense that a slice of Mexico may have been transported to Vietnam.

SUSHI DINING AOI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 A sign of authenticity in a restaurant serving non local fare can always be found in the customers. Sushi AOI is no different. On our visit, this subtly lit, sleek and contemporary eatery was filled mainly with Japanese — a good sign for anyone wanting to gauge the food quality of a particular venue.

I’m going to venture a bold statement. A very bold one. AOI might just be the best sushi and sashimi restaurant in town. What is on offer here, at least on the specials menu, was certainly like nothing I’d ever tasted in the city. It was even an opinion shared by a close Japanese peer.

Mexico meets Vietnam: Khoi Thom's BBQ fish marinated in tequila

Sushi Dining AOI's grilled Hokke, the wagyu of mackerel But let’s just leave that accolade dangling there for a moment. AOI is one of our clients — so, it would be easy to say we’re pandering to ‘vested interests’. We’re not. So, what is it that makes this place so special?

The secret is not just in the ingredients — a large factor in the make up of any sushi or sashimi dish. It’s also in the marinade, the way the fish and crustaceans are treated, and then, of course in the rice. As my Japanese friend pointed out, “There’s something in the rice there. I don’t know what it is, but it just tastes different.”

According to AOI, though, all they’re trying to do is to revive traditional dishes

and preparation methods that were prevalent in Japan 40 or 50 years ago.

Take for example the salmon belly sushi (VND39,000 / two pieces). Here the skin is separated from the fish, made crispy and then re-attached with a soy sauce mix, meaning that the final bite doesn’t need to be dipped in soy sauce or wasabi. It’s to die for. Then there’s the oily, grilled Hokke fish (VND150,000) from Hokkaido, a dish that is to mackerel what wagyu is to beef.

During my trip I was treated to quite a feast, had my share of home AOI’s homemade miso, and walked away aghast.

I’m putting my money where my mouth is.

Let’s hope AOI can do the same.

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FOOD FEATURE

Fish Out of Water Vietnam’s extensive coastline lends itself to a diverse and complex marine life.

Stephanie Cantrell looks at some of the aquatic and freshwater dishes available in Ho Chi Minh City and the health benefits of eating fish. Photos by Charles Barnes

SUPER GROUPER

ELECTRIC EEL

Blanchy’s Tash (95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) serves a delicate grouper tiradito that leaves the taste buds tingling. The thinly sliced raw flesh is dressed with a lime vinaigrette and each piece is anointed with a dash of Tabasco for a fiery finish. The dish is priced at VND340,000. Grouper is rich in omega-3, which clears the arteries and reduces high blood pressure.

The curry eel (luon xao lan) at Saigon Xua Va Nay (33 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1) is modestly priced at VND95,000 and is served bubbling over a gas heater. The sauce is fragrant and delicious, with strong lemongrass and peanut flavours that pairs perfectly with the eel. Rich in omega-3 acids, this species reduces the risk of diabetes. It is also rich in Vitamins A, D, E, B1 and B12, which help to keep the body healthy and rejuvenated. All making eel the standard meat or fish addition to chao dinh duong, a congee or rice porridge served almost daily to babies and infants across the length and breadth of Vietnam.

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BRAZEN BASA

HEALTHY HERRING

Quan Bui (8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1) serves a delicious braised basa fish in a clay pot with pork meat dish for VND59,000. Soaked in a sweet broth with a powerful chilli kick, the fish fillet easily falls from the bone, and is tender and moist. The basa is native to the Mekong Delta and is high in protein but low in fat, which can help with weight control as it leaves you feeling fuller with fewer calories than other protein sources.

This white, slightly meaty fish contains fatty acids that have been known to reduce blood pressure and heart disease, as well contribute to brain and eye development in infants. The herring and roe at Sushi Club (2 Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3) is priced at VND142,000 and is served artistically, with the bright orange roe complimenting the slivers of fish.

SMACKING MACKEREL

DAPPER SNAPPER

This silvery black denizen of the deep is perfectly fresh, offering a slightly sweetened tangy taste. The vinegar marinated mackerel sashimi dish is light, leaving you craving more and is priced at VND100,000 at Kabuto Tokyo (45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1). This sea spawn is known for its health benefits, which include helping with a healthy heart due to the rich content of omega-3, various vitamins and monounsaturated fats.

Served with a healthy salad, this dish is comfort food, with a light flavour. The pan-fried red snapper with chilli and lemongrass is perfectly fried and is flaky and moist inside. The fish is rich in selenium, which works as an antioxidant. It also contains a lot of phosphorous, which helps healthy bones. This dish is available for VND106,000 at Goldfish (73 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1).

MYSTERY DINER

BAHDJA

Our covert critic samples the aquatic life in District 7 and then heads back to town for some North African fare.

Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

87-89-91 HO TUNG MAU, Q1. TEL: 6679 9330

P

NHA HANG CA BIEN SAIGON MOI (THE SEA FISH RESTAURANT) 272 NGUYEN VAN LINH, Q7. TEL: 3775 5188

S

eafood restaurants are a dime a dozen in Vietnam, enjoyed daily from north to south. Yet, on a cool Monday evening in deepest, darkest District 7, idle staff at Nha Hang Ca Bien Saigon Moi out-number customers two-to-one. No one’s here, reducing the atmosphere to a damp squib.

Fortunately the restaurant is attractive and interesting enough to distract one’s attention; a number of bubbling tanks containing odd-looking gilled creatures from the deep gives way to a semi covered patio garden draped in fairy lights wrapped around tree branches.

The menu contains your typical seafood dishes at around a third the price of most inner city counterparts; esoteric options including swimming silver pomfret, sinnamon sturgeon, spiny Gobi and hemibagrus sold at seasonal prices; and some more unusual ‘specialities’ (lobster and cockles “roasted in microwave”, anyone?).

We start off with the hao nuong pho mai (oysters covered in cheese). The four oysters

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aren’t the biggest we’ve seen in Saigon and the melted cheese possesses an alarmingly bright, almost luminous, yellow hue akin to Kraft processed slices. The presentation is slapdash with none of the advertised, tenderly prepared herb and veg-based garnishes included, though the taste is still wonderfully salty and tangy and washes down nicely with a bottle of Saigon do.

A plate of muc nuong muoi ot (grilled squid with salt and chilli) follows and it’s excellent. The large, fleshy white chunks are supple in texture, plentiful in supply and spicy enough to tickle the tongue and enliven the taste buds. An accompanying bowl of nuoc cham muoi ot xanh (green chilli and salt sauce) adds an almost wasabi kick, albeit with a sweeter edge. It’s delicious and a must-try. Just make sure to request it specifically as it’s not normally included.

The waitress reveals our tom su rang me (tiger prawns roasted in tamarind) have been forgotten, which is disappointing seeing as the service had hitherto been very good. When the prawns eventually arrive

they’re almost too hot to de-shell by hand. All eight are massive and meaty, and come smothered in a thick sweet and sour tamarind sauce with slithers of onion and crushed peanuts. It’s a mucky treat, but a finger licking good one that tastes extremely fresh.

As far as seafood restaurants go, Saigon Moi is a solid option if not a standout. It does the basics competently, though its awkward location may put nonDistrict 7 dwellers off from making the journey.

However, the more exotic fishy fare on offer should still attract more adventurous customers, regardless of distance.

Just not on a Monday.

THE PRICES OYSTERS WITH CHEESE VND140,000 GRILLED SQUID VND95,000 ROASTED TIGER PRAWNS VND95,000 THE VERDICT

8.5 9 9.5 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

eeping out from below Au Lac Saigon Hotel is Bahdja, Saigon’s first Algerian restaurant. Taken from the Arabic noun for ‘happiness’, Bahdja not only attempts to produce authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style, but also a genuinely pleasant Arabic-influenced dining experience.

Aesthetically, everything is spot on, from the contemporary Arab-style furnishings and ornaments to the traditional wailing music heard overhead. The ear-to-ear smile, mild demeanour, and warm hospitality extended by the Algerian owner is typical of such family-run eateries.

He explains that, apart from the chef (also Algerian), he’s on his own tonight.

His staff has fallen ill, and he apologises in case the service isn’t up to scratch. Kudos for the heads up, but with only one other couple dining and a small group of drinkers outside, there probably couldn’t be a better night to be understaffed.

After listening to the owner describe nearly every dish on the menu in mouthwatering detail, we order the couscous royale and mtewem tajine as well as a bottle of Moroccan red wine.

A free basket of homemade semolina wheat bread is quickly popped on our table along with some pickles and homemade harissa-style chilli paste dip and a portion

of baba ghanoush. Speckled with sesame seeds the bread is deliciously light and chewy with an elastic and spongy texture, the type one could easily eat all day. The dips are equally addictive. The potency of the chilli paste is fiery though controlled, while the smoky roasted eggplant puree balances its constituent parts (garlic, tahini, olive oil and lemon juice) perfectly.

A short time follows before the mains arrive, allowing us to indulge in the bottle of Domaine de Sahari. Using Guerrouane grapes from high-altitude appellations situated beneath the Atlas Mountains in the Meknes and Fez region of Morocco, it’s a rich yet highly smooth and palatable wine.

The couscous royale and mtewem tajine arrive in tandem in several brown, glazed clay pots. The former separates a bowl of couscous from another containing a mixed-vegetable and chickpea stew and a side plate of grilled lamb chops, merguez sausages and baked chicken.

The couscous is moist, light and fluffy, while the chickpea stew, containing tomatoes, onions and chunks of carrots, zucchini and daikon radish, is wholesome and healthy. All the meats are beautifully tender and moist, though it’s the excellent merguez sausage that impresses most thanks to its full-bodied flavour that appears to incorporate lots of garlic, fennel, cumin, sumac, paprika and more harissa chilli.

Already feeling two-thirds full, the sight of the mtewem tajine is almost too much, though we plough on regardless.

Consisting of slow-cooked, braised lamb,

minced beef, potatoes and chickpeas in a garlic sauce, it’s almost too salty, though there’s something decidedly moreish about this dish as we use more homemade bread to mop up the excess sauce.

No desserts are on offer, but that’s ok, we’re stuffed. It’s then we realise that a restaurant such as Bahdja is best experienced as a group, when you can really take advantage of the menu and order a bevy of dishes. Tonight, we’ve barely scratched the surface. Eating in Arab-influenced North Africa isn’t seen as just THE PRICES a meal, it’s supposed COUSCOUS to be a social event.

ROYALE And the experience at VND390,000 Bahdja warrants exactly that.

MTEWEM TAJINE VND280,000

Food, decor and service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15: 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair

DOMAINE DE SAHARI VND800,000 THE VERDICT

10 11 10.5 FOOD

Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

SERVICE

DÉCOR

SOUND & VISION

part on a non-fixed basis at a host of obscure, quirky and alternative venues including the aforementioned Cinematheque, CAMA’s ATK Cafe and the Goethe Institut in Hanoi, as well as Saturday Café (owned by revered Vietnamese composer Duong Thu) and Café Tram in Saigon.

Screenings in both cities have since included, amongst others, We Don’t Care About Music Anyway, a documentary highlighting several of the foremost talents in contemporary Tokyo’s infamous avant-garde music scene, coupled with live sets from local experimental musicians; La Blogotheque’s Take Away Shows, a series of recorded impromptu gigs by the likes of Bon Iver, Arcade Fire and lesser known acts at varying unorthodox locations across Paris, and The Sound Of Noise, an off-kilter Swedish-French comedy caper about a tone-deaf cop tracking a group of guerilla percussionists whose anarchic public performances are terrorising the Swedish city of Malmo.

SEEN & HEARD The T he duo duo behind behind The The Onion Onion C Cellar ellar says it’s it’ss time time to to peel peel the the layers layers aand nd says cry iitt o ut. W ords b ohn T hornton. cry out.

Words byy J John Thornton.

Photo b uinn R yan M attingly Photo byy Q Quinn Ryan Mattingly

Following the Call

“How do you define a hipster anyway?

I think that’s one of the most overused words ever,” counters Hung Tran, one half of independent arts project The Onion Cellar, when asked if their screenings may ever appeal to a more disingenuous audience.

He adds: “How do you know what someone is really like just by looking at the way they dress or by knowing what music they listen to without actually knowing them personally?”

This impartial, open-minded attitude, combined with the belief that a dearth of freshness and diversity is crippling the arts scene here, explains why The Onion Cellar was founded and how it’s cultivating a burgeoning following.

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Established in Hanoi late last year, The Onion Cellar is a DIY initiative that strives to introduce previously ignored or unknown international alternative culture to Vietnam through the medium of musicbased films and live performance.

Since the project’s debut event in December (an official screening of Icelandic band Sigur Ros’ INNI at Hanoi’s Cinematheque), a Ho Chi Minh City chapter, headed up by fellow counterculture enthusiast Khuong Le, has emerged. Running in tandem with its capital-based counterpart, the events take

Not your typical cinematic fodder, which, as Khuong stresses, is exactly the point.

“Newer, fresher ideas are in dire need,” he explains. “Whether they’re better than what’s come before or not isn’t something we think about too much. We’re just following the clarion’s call.”

As Hung explains, the duo’s intriguing moniker, and their project’s core ethos, derives from the 42nd chapter of The Tin Drum, a novel by German Nobel Literature laureate Gunter Grass — later loosely adapted into a drama/cabaret show by the Dresden Doll’s Amanda Palmer.

“The Onion Cellar is a nightclub in post-war Dusseldorf where people go to cry. There’s neither food nor drink, the only thing served is onion. Guests, mostly intellectuals, but also students, are given onions to peel and cut until the onion juice makes them cry. Once the tears start it’s easier for them to share and talk about

their most personal troubles, things they normally don’t have the courage to talk about,” says Hung.

Upon taking in one of the latest screenings in Saigon, Khuong stresses the importance of creating a platform that encourages the audience to share their thoughts on what they’ve just witnessed. For him, this part is just as important, if not more, than turning up to watch a film.

“Creating constructive discourse, and even heat sometimes, is better than living in silence. Saturday Café has always been a favoured spot of local intellectuals, young and old, but it’s a pretty small and faithful group,” he says. “So, by merging them with Onion Cellar viewers, for example foreigners and youngsters either up-todate with or interested in exploring new musical trends, it’s great seeing how their different perspectives ‘consume’ each other in a positive manner. By the end each event, they may better understand what they’ve just seen, as well as each other, regardless of any preconceptions.”

Like any grassroots movement trying to make its mark, one of the biggest problems Khuong and Hung face is getting these people to return consistently. Depending on the size of the venue and the subject matter of the film, numbers have fluctuated from between 30 to 80 people.

However, neither seems particularly perturbed by this, preferring, as always, to keep an open mind.

“With The Onion Cellar, we can attract both film lovers and music lovers in one place and both may go home happy. There are always such people, wherever they are, whoever they are,” says Khuong.

Even hipsters?

“The people here who seem to embrace that definition have a superficial grasp of the term and use it clumsily. Art, like love, is for everyone, even Forrest Gump and Quasimodo, Oscar Wilde and Nietzsche.”

To keep up to date with The Onion Cellar's future events, visit www.facebook.com/ theonioncellar

June 2012 Word | 63

LEISURE & WELLNESS

EYES WIDE SHUT

Can delving into our past through hypnotism cure our phobias? The answer may well be yes.

Words by Michael Arnold.

Photos by EJ Chung

W

atching from the window of the Coffee Bean looking out over the old cathedral, Vy emerges cheerfully from the evening bustle. It’s been a week since her hypnotherapy session, and there’s a burning question that needs to be asked — which is probably what anyone curious about hypnotism wants to know — did it actually work?

A confident, attractive young woman, it’s hard to imagine that Vy is frightened of anything at all. Since childhood, however, she has suffered from an acute and irrational fear of cats. Hypnosis sounded like a fair chance at relief for a problem that was beginning to interfere with her everyday life.

I’d met her hypnotist in a fashionable bar a fortnight before the session. Tony Williams is every bit as striking as you’d expect — tall and well turned out, scalp shaved absolutely bare, with the disarmingly direct gaze of a magician. But far from being aloof or mysterious, Tony speaks in a forthright, rich baritone, and his voice resonates with sincerity. This helps enormously, because within five minutes of conversation about hypnotism, I realise I’m way out of my depth.

The Interlife While he normally practices hypnotism as a therapeutic method, Tony’s real interest lies in exploring past lives and the effects they bring to bear on our current existence — as well as a state of being called the ‘interlife’, during which souls waiting to be reborn examine their spiritual progress with the assistance of higher beings. While such beliefs might inspire the occasional odd look, Tony remains quite unembarrassed.

“My background’s in science,” he explains. “To me, the scientific basis for what happens with hypnotism is solid. It satisfies the criteria for valid evidence. People who ridicule it do so out of ignorance and fear — which I find laughable.”

It’s not necessary at all for those undergoing hypnotic treatment to share the views of their hypnotist. Vy is a case in point — as a committed Christian, talk of past lives and interlives makes no sense to her, and when I spoke to her in the Coffee Bean, she strongly disagreed that her session with Tony was spiritual in nature.

64 | Wo 64 Word W ord rd JJu June un nee 22012 012 01

She does admit to having been sceptical on the night before she was hypnotised, and she wasn’t alone. I once had the occasion to be treated for a headache by a performance hypnotist with a very silly stage name, who carried out some “energy work” by waving his hands around my head, telling me that the pain would be gone as soon as snapped his fingers. For reasons of politeness, I’d had to pretend that the miracle had occurred.

Tony’s manner is far more credible, and he grins at me as we sit in his immaculate inner-city apartment waiting for Vy to turn up to her session — “50/50 she falls asleep”. He’d send her home if she did — a hypnotic subject, he explains, needs to remain conscious during the entire process.

Despite common misconceptions, a subject in a state of hypnosis will be awake and in a state of focused concentration.

In fact, he claims, there’s nothing mysterious about the state of being in a hypnotic trance. “Most people go into a trance state for much of the day,” he says.

It’s that unchecked state of conscious flow we get into when we’re absorbed in driving a car or watching TV.

“To me, the scientific basis for what happens with hypnotism is solid. It satisfies the criteria for valid evidence.

People who ridicule it do so out of ignorance and fear — which I find laughable”

from here,” he says, “depends on you. In your own time, you will overcome this.

Your subconscious now knows how to treat the problem.”

“It will be a while before you’re no longer afraid of cats,” he says. “But the phobia is gone”.

And so, sitting in the Coffee Bean — I just have to ask that question.

Vy’s answer is mixed, but it’s not disappointing. “When I got home, I went online and looked at some cat pictures. It was amazing that I wasn’t so afraid. The effect has lasted.

“I’ll be honest, though — I still don’t want to be around cats. I don’t think that’s going to go away. The problem is my mindset. I’m just not convinced that I’d ever be able to get over it. If I made the decision to go through with other sessions, I just don’t think I could believe in it enough.”

Look Into My Eyes He relaxes Vy on his couch when she arrives, and hands her a picture of a cat.

Her reaction is immediate and extreme — a mixture of revulsion and abject terror. The seriousness of Vy’s phobic condition is surprising: she’s not just afraid of cats, she’s virtually incapacitated by them.

Tony explains what is about to happen.

In essence, he will take her into a deeply restive state, locate the memory of the incident that caused the phobia, and negotiate with her unconscious mind in an attempt to perform a fix.

As he begins to intone his instructions, Vy relaxes and follows his lead as he gives her a series of situations to imagine. It’s the stuff of dreams — following staircases, standing in a beautiful garden. She’s very quickly taken into the trance, and is remarkably compliant. Tony’s questioning reveals an occasion when, at the age of five, a large cat passed through the room where she was sleeping alone, staring ominously at her and scaring her out of her mind.

Tony performs a technique called ‘gestalt therapy’ and asks Vy as an adult to offer comfort to her younger self. I listen as the adult Vy pacifies her infant mind. Tony then leads her back through various other occasions on which she has been terrified by cats, and applies the same tactic. Over the course of two hours, Tony uses a number of trade techniques — collectively known as Neurolinguistic Programming — to affect similar results. Vy reports the gradual lessening of her fear as she gently re-emerges into waking consciousness.

Once again, Tony hands her the picture of the cat, and she stares grinning at it like a delighted schoolgirl — completely unafraid.

Tony emphasises that what has just occurred is not a cure. “What happens

JJune Ju une ne 2012 200112 12 Word Word | 65

MOTORSPORTS SPECIAL

Fast, But Not Furious John Thornton and his crew hit the dirty tracks for some racing fun. ATVs and off-road biking are in.

Photos by EJ Chung

I

've never been a big fan of motorsports.

Firstly, there’s no ball, so what’s the point? Secondly, I’ve never actually been interested in anything with a motor.

I was 21 before I was legally allowed to sit behind the wheel of a car unaccompanied, and had never driven a scooter before moving to Vietnam.

I’ve never felt “the need for speed” or been a ‘petrol head’ — at least not until spending an afternoon at Vietnam’s first purpose-built ATV (all-terrain vehicle) quad track.

Located on the outskirts of the city, within the expansive grounds of the slightly surreal Suoi Tien Theme Park in District 9, is VinaRacing, a fledgling GermanVietnamese venture that opened its track in April following two years of research and development. The idea is to not only put motorsports on the map in Vietnam, but to also add some variety to Saigon’s much maligned leisure options.

Consisting of three dirt tracks (one for children, two for adults), a wooden hut changing facility, snack bar, stage, and, oddly enough, a mechanical bull, the area itself is relatively self-contained, helping to emphasise the roar of the ATVs. Little time is wasted before my friends and I have changed out of our civilian attire and into full body race suits complete with gloves, open face balaclava and crash helmet, ready to go.

However, before getting down to business we’re taken to a practise pen to get better acquainted with these four-wheeled juggernauts.

VinaRacing chief operating officer Arno Liemann goes over the necessary safety precautions and provides a run down of the bike’s specifications. With a fleet of 27 Kymco ATVs imported from Taiwan, each

66 | Word June 2012

is fully automatic with 300cc of power that tops out at around 80kmph. If that sounds too intimidating, fret not, smaller, less powerful 50cc equivalents are also available.

Having demonstrated our ability to competently negotiate a figure eight around several centrally positioned tyre

fling yourself around corners on nothing but two wheels.

Around 10 minutes pass before the man with the chequered flag waves us back into the paddock. I dismount my quad, take off my helmet, and realise I’m teeming with sweat. We’re racing directly underneath the mid-afternoon sun and it’s scorching.

It’s no wonder the majority of customers prefer to do this in the morning or late afternoon.

Turbo Charger

stacks — the equivalent of taking a local driving test — we’re given the green light to enter the advanced track. Mounting our mechanical steeds we accelerate off, leaving a blast of dust in our wake as thumping Euro dance soundtracks our laps.

Though we’ve completed the training phase it’s here where you really learn how to operate and appreciate these man-made beasts, encountering a series of bends of varying degrees while working out how to harness your body weight to successfully

We then turn our attention to the professional track. The track that separates the men from the boys and, as Arno quips, “really lets you see how far you can push the vehicle”. Here, only two people are allowed to compete per time, using slightly modified race quads.

Unlike the advanced track, the professional track includes fewer yet significantly sharper hairpin turns and a couple of bumpers that, with enough acceleration, can send you flying through the air in exhilarating fashion. The level of concentration required to complete it needs to be high, as one member of our group found out when his lap came to a sudden halt upon overshooting one of the more acute curves.

Though we aren’t tackling true off-road terrain in a jungle or forest, it’s still immensely fun and surprisingly draining, both mentally and physically.

Three days later my arms and shoulders still ache. The feel of my everyday bike (a Vespa) is reduced to that of riding a Fisher Price tricycle. I want more of the action.

But at VND70,000 per 10 minutes for children on the kids track, and VND100,000 and VND120,000 per 10 minutes for adults on the advanced and professional tracks, respectively, it could be argued you don’t get enough bang for

your buck. Arno says, “We need to charge these prices because we provide European quality and a European style of having fun.”

He adds that the experience is maximised by taking part in the various games, corporate and team building packages on offer, which mix driving with skill activities including blind driving, the aforementioned bronco and something that bizarrely combines an ATV with a seesaw and a mustard-smothered German sausage dangling from a raised wooden frame. Formula 1-style champagne shower celebrations (hence the stage) and a BBQ can also be arranged.

Not content with bringing ATV motorsports to Vietnam, Arno also reveals plans to open an international-standard go-kart track located closer to the city centre within a matter of months, using high quality go-karts imported from France and Germany.

“As well as being open to the public, the idea is to host professional international go-kart championships in Vietnam, like they do in Malaysia and Thailand,” he says. “We want to have the first professional go-kart racing team in Vietnam, made up exclusively of young, talented Vietnamese drivers.”

Until then petrol heads, thrill seekers and speed freaks can satisfy their motorsports cravings at Suoi Tien.

VinaRacing’s ATV track is located at Suoi Tien Theme Park, 120 Hanoi Highway, Q9, and open daily from 8am to 5pm. For more info, visit www.vinaracing.vn

June 2012 Word | 67

Crossing the Line John Thornton forgoes the tarmac for the dirt road to try check out motocross racing for the first time.

Photos by EJ Chung

armour, knee and elbow pads, neck braces and boots, up to VND21 million, depending on the brand and needs of the driver.

Wheelin’ & Dealin’ Most of us are still sleeping off the previous night’s excesses at 9am on a Saturday, enjoying a much-needed lie-in following the end to another work week. However, there are others who prefer to forsake this luxury in favour of embracing the age-old Latin aphorism carpe diem.

One such group of people meet outside the Riverside Serviced Apartments complex in An Phu most Saturdays, emerging blearyeyed yet ready to enter the high-octane world of motocross racing.

“When you try it you realise how addictive it is,” enthuses Florence “Flo” Maginier, en route to Vietnam’s first and only motocross track at Mango Garden Resort (Vuon Xoai) in Dong Nai. “The rush of adrenaline you get is incredible, it’s such a buzz!”

Opened in 2010, the earthen track was designed by a Thai motocross expert and financed by a Vietnamese benefactor.

It’s since seen two redesigns and now

68 | Word June 2012

incorporates multiple berms and jumps, taking just over a minute per lap to complete.

Sandbagging It And though motocross in Vietnam is said to be at least 10 years behind the likes of Cambodia and Malaysia in terms of development, Aussie biker Trent Tolkien describes the track as “amazing”, lauding its international-standard quality, safe jumps and lack of potentially hazardous gaps.

Local chop shop owner Hoan Nguyen, who also runs one of the most popular motorcycle clubs in Ho Chi Minh City — dubbed Con Cao Cao because dirt bikes are said to resemble grasshoppers to the Vietnamese — organised the country’s first official motocross race there last June, an event that attracted a crowd of thousands, 50 competitors of multiple nationalities and caused quite a stir among the local media.

And though there hasn’t been another race

hosted since, this hasn’t stopped lovers of the sport making the hour-long journey to Vuon Xoai most weekends to hone their skills.

Trent, Flo, her boyfriend Ken TranNguyen, and fellow motocross enthusiast Monty Truong are all members of Con Cao Cao and regulars of the track. Having discovered the club through online forums and good old-fashioned word of mouth, they also frequent off-road trails through jungles, forests, rivers, rubber plantations, sand dunes and even construction sites around the likes of Cat Lai, Long Thanh and Mui Ne. “There’s usually around 20 people that go,” Ken says.

“Vietnam is the perfect place for it.”

After the quartet unload their bikes from a van they’ve rented for the day, everyone changes into their race gear. It’s all pretty heavy-duty stuff, not to mention expensive.

Monty reveals the cost can range from VND10.5 million for equipment such as crash helmets, gloves, protective goggles, body

Unsurprisingly, the bikes themselves also fetch a pretty penny. “You can expect to pay between VND63 million and VND252 million depending on the year, brand and model of the bike,” says Monty, who advises on shelling out the dong instead of renting. “It’s better to own your bike as a lot of time needs to be spent getting used to all the idiosyncrasies, tweaking the settings, and discovering how it reacts to different terrains and conditions.”

Once they’re on the track it’s easy to understand the sport’s appeal. Trent revs off on his 2007 250cc Honda CRF in style, pulling off an impressive wheelie before sliding undauntedly through corners and taking off into the air like a leaping salmon.

Monty grabs an impressive amount of hang time on each of his jumps, especially over the 25m triple, eliciting gasps of astonishment from a growing crowd of intrigued spectators.

Cries of “You’re on fire!” and “You’re in the zone!” are shouted at different intervals, though Monty’s daredevil approach also results in several crashes that eventually render his bike unusable for the rest of the day. Luckily he’s not hurt and is soon back on the track as if nothing had happened.

And bar a short period of torrential downpour, which temporarily turns the track into an oversized mud pit, ceasing the action, the gang spends literally all afternoon perfecting their jumps, turns and general driving techniques, only letting up for brief pit stops to rehydrate and enjoy an ostrich meat lunch.

To a large extent it takes a fearless attitude, combined with an insatiable thirst and unbridled passion for extreme thrills, to fully embrace motocross. A case of learning by doing, not teaching. “The Vietnamese are really quite talented,” says Trent. “They’re naturally good on a motorcycle so it’s just about honing their skills. Maybe within a year of two, I think they’ll be quite competitive with other Southeast Asian riders.”

Dedication is also paramount. Since

taking up the sport seriously two months ago, Flo says her riding has already improved significantly. Though with only one other woman involved in the sport, Flo is somewhat of a rarity within the motocross scene. So, does she feel at all marginalized or is she considered one of the boys?

“I actually prefer being with the guys,” she claims. “They’re fun to be around, they’re happy to coach me and they look out for me.

I started off by watching and taking pictures, but after a while that bored me. So I found a little two-stroke 100cc Kawasaki, which is perfect for a girl of my size. I’m always telling my girlfriends they should try it.”

And therein lies perhaps the greatest aspect of motocross. It’s open to anyone and everyone (as long as you can afford it).

Men, women and children of all ages and ability are all welcome to join the fun. So long as you can wake up in time.

For more information on motocross, trail treks and the Con Cao Cao Club, go to Hoan Nguyen’s shop at 91/14 Tran Quang Dieu, Q3. Alternatively, visit the Motocross Vietnam Facebook page or email everybodygo1@yahoo.com

June 2012 Word | 69

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June 2012 Word | 73

ACCESSORIZE

Into your smart phones? Take a look at this range of accessories to help you smarten up the experience 1 BEATS PRO HIGHPERFORMANCE

5

Quality construction; dual input/ output audio ports for communal listening; thumping bass; ear cushions can be removed and replaced.

VND4.5 million, muahot.com

MILI POWER QUEEN

SONY ERICSSON LIVEVIEW BLUETOOTH PHONE REMOTE Shows live texts, Tweets & Facebook updates, caller ID; controls your music; requires Android OS 2.0 and above.

Features 8000 mAh of battery power and is compatible with all Apple products, mp3 players, mobile phones, digital cameras, and laptops.

VND2.9 million, mainguyen.vn

Can stream films, music and photos to iOS, Android tablets and smart phones wirelessly via a built-in WiFi network; offers 500GB of storage capacity and features USB 3.0 VND5.6 million, giakien.com

VND1.6 million, mainguyen.vn

JAWBONE ERA BLUETOOTH HEADSET Reads out caller by name and has a built-in accelerometer with HDquality audio. The headset displays battery meter on your iPhone (BlackBerry and Android available at MyTALK).

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SONY ERICSSON PORTABLE MEDIA SPEAKER STAND 4.3 x 0.1 x 1.2 inches in size and made of aluminium, it is powered by 3 AAA batteries and streams up to 12 hours of play time offering a 3.5mm headphone jack which automatically powers on and off when connected.

VND790,000, mainguyen.vn

3 TDK 3-SPEAKER BOOMBOX AUDIO SYSTEM

1) VN D180 All a ,000. 2) V vaila ble ND180 Ging at Oran ,000. 3) V g ko. 5 ) VN e. 4) VNDND180,0 0 D210 Ging ,000 310,000 a0. ko, 5 at Pa t 4 Bu p aya i Vie n, Q1 Q1. P . Orang e, apay a, 23 152 Bui 2 Bu i Vie Vien, n, Q1

74 | Word June 2012

15.5 x 24.3 x 5.3 inches in size the sytem provides serious bass at high volumes and can be used as an amp for instruments also coming with a volume knob that goes all the way to 11 with a built-in AM/FM radio and multiple input options including USB, 3.5-mm and auxiliary ports.

VND20.8 million, tamnhinso.com

GRIFFIN POWERDOCK DUAL Provides a compact space (no sync, only charging) to charge iPads, iPhones or iPods and takes up little space on your desktop. It also charges rapidly and comes with a change tray for coins, a wallet or keys.

VND1.3 million, zshop.vn

APPLE WIRELESS KEYBOARD Connects with Bluetooth wireless technology and requires just two AA batteries for a long battery life and saves an enormous amount of space on your desk, automatically powering down when you are not using it and turning back on when you start typing.

VND2 million, haloshop.vn

June 2012 Word | 75

{live in saigon }

MIKE HIYPER

HIP-HOP WORLD TOUR

Lush, Jun. 1, Jun. 6, Jun. 14, Jun. 22 and Jun. 29; TBC Hip-hop fans are in for a real treat this month as the newly revamped Lush (2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) presents the second run of its Hip-Hop World Tour.

Proceedings kick off on Jun. 1 with a live performance by none other than former Jurassic 5 member Akil The MC. Joined by the flamboyant MC Hydo Phonics and party rocking DJ Tech 12, Akil’s solo output retains the characteristics that made J5 the revered group loved by millions: funky old-school flows, soulful beats, harmonic convergences, dynamic vocal inflections and brash B-boy bravado.

Following on Jun. 6 comes another huge show in the form Dominic Butler, perhaps better known as the DJ half of legendary UK

JD VAJRA

breakbeat duo Stanton Warriors. For those unfamiliar, Dom and producer Mark Yardley emerged out of Bristol around the turn of the millennium and energised the British garage scene with powerful, genre-spanning tracks and hyperactive mixes, fusing the freedom and flair of 2-step with the renegade intelligence of nu-breaks.

The beats don’t stop there however as current DMC World Champion DJ Vajra gets behind the decks on Jun. 14. One of the most well-rounded DJs in music today, Vajra has earned his place among the industry’s elite, dominating battles and smashing dance floors around the globe with his unique turntable ticks and original party blends. Not convinced?

Scratch icon DJ Q-Bert recently dubbed Vajra his “favourite DJ in the world right now”.

Then, having already rocked Lush twice

City Guide PATRICK OLIVER

before, Patrick Oliver returns on Jun. 22 to add some housey grooves with the signature sound that saw him serve as resident DJ at KL’s Ministry Of Sound before moving on to his current post at Zirca and Pangaea in Singapore.

Finally, DJ Mike Hyper wraps up the tour on Jun. 29. Somewhat of a semi-regular at Lush, Mike is regarded as one of Australia’s most popular party DJs, with 17 years of experience performing across Asia. Having played with the likes of Chris Brown, The Black Eyed Peas and Snoop Dogg, his open format style should appeal to both ‘heads and more casual hiphop fans.

The Hip-Hop World Tour is presented

by Russian Standard Vodka. For more information, visit www.facebook.com/ lushsaigon. For table bookings, contact Mr De on 0918 630742

BUSINESS LISTINGS 078 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 087 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 100 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 118 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 124 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 132 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 140 PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

THIBAULT CAUVIN

THIBAULT CAUVIN MAQMAN

DOSE OF WAREHOUSE

CREA TV, Jun. 9; VND120,000 (advance)/ VND150,000 (on door) Eight artists. Two rooms. One night. Remember to mark down Jun. 9 on your calendar because the next dOSe party promises to be a biggy.

Set to be held inside the unique and offthe-wall surrounds of production house CREA TV’s massive studio warehouse, expect a proper underground rave-up as the bill splits off into opposing ‘Groove’ and ‘Dark’ rooms, pitting the so-called International House Mafia against Vietnam’s own Eclectic Pimps.

Taking over the Groove Room are the UK’s Martin East, best known for his dramatic turn in the 1997 box office smash Titanic and deep house productions and remixes for Jill

76 | Word June 2012

TOTI D

Scott, New Order and Nikka Costa; Manila’s tech house innovator and Groove Nation founder Toti D.; Swizz-born soulful dance maverick MAQman; and French audio-visual extraordinaire VJ Discocactus.

Over in the Dark Room, expect a mashup of everything from hip-hop, dubstep and electronica to lounge, bossa nova, funk, soul and more as The Beats Saigon’s DJ Jase and dOSe members past and present (Scrambled Edge, Jan Hagenkoetter & DJ Slide) come together to represent Saigon’s music scene. dOSe of Warehouse takes place at CREA TV, 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh, from 8pm to 3am. Tickets can be purchased in advance at a discounted rate of VND120,000 from Centro Café (11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1) and Scoozi (6 Thai Van Lung, Q1)

IDECAF, Jun. 5; VND100,000/VND50,000 (students) French classical guitar virtuoso Thibault Cauvin will perform a special recital at IDECAF (31 Thai Van Lung, Q1) from 8pm.

The only guitarist worldwide to win 13 international first prizes by the age of 20, Thibault, now 27, has since become an ambassador of the revival of classical guitar, playing at a number of prestigious festivals and concerts halls in New York, Hong Kong, San Paolo, Istanbul, London, Melbourne, Singapore and Tel-Aviv.

A graduate of the Paris Conservatory of Music, he’s performed over 1,000 concerts worldwide and released four albums, most recently the acclaimed N°4 in 2009.

Thibault Cauvin is presented by The Antenna in Ho Chi Minh City of the French Institute in Vietnam

A D D IT ION A L F EATUR ES

Destination Zero 088 Travel Promos 094 Foodie Corner 106 Cafe Critique 112 Food Promos 114 Vietnam Top 10 118 For The Record 119 Road Rules 120 Decks 'n' Drums 122 In The Frame 123

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 078 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 078 BUSINESS CONSULTING 079 BUSINESS GROUPS 080 CONSUMER GIFTS 081 EVENT MANAGEMENT 081 EXPAT SERVICES 081 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 081 INSURANCE 082 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 082

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM 11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 082 LAUNDRY 084 LEGAL SERVICES 084 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 084 MARKET RESEARCH 085 PUBLIC RELATIONS 086 RECRUITMENT & HR 086 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 086 SERVICED APARTMENTS 086

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more.

Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266, www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED 7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting.

Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1, Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group.

Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

BBDO VIETNAM

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

TMF GROUP

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries.

Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM 13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING 1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM 113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOUS 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777, www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region.

Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS 10 Phan Ngu, Q1, Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands.

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The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 3 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA a Top-Ten worldwide advertising TYAisVIETNAM agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best 3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, Phung Khac International Network of the8ADecade” in Khoan, 2010 andQ1 ranked 24th on Fast Company’s Tel: 3822 2009 list of3956 “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services www.tya.com.vn include strategic Established 1982consultancy, in Japan, TYAcreative is a development, events and activation, strategic creative agency with a growing direct mail, shopper marketing and public network across Asia Pacific. TYA uses this relations.

strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

XONE FM 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1. Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

business ERNST & YOUNG 8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

business PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED 8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6770, www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing.

Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and

sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research.

Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402, www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in

Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

CANCHAM

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

NORDCHAM 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423, www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD. 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

PHOTO OI! Tel: 01269 502790 www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

CBRE

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news.

Also does research and management services.

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

EASY SAIGON

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers

www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

HAPPY HOUSE

50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11 Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any event memorable.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE

relocation and immigration to cross– cultural and business awareness training.

THE CATERERS

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

EVECOO

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services.

Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

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number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916, www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from

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business SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate.

As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam.

Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Hotline: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

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Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416, www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits.

Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

IF CONSULTING

www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

SPOT

LIBERTY INSURANCE

SNAP

18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877 www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale.

Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM) Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam.

Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125, www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355, www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates.

Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING 26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM 28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM 51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492, www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

business VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED) 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY 203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2, Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN 16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1, Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

LEGAL SERVICES

the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585, www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860, www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING

ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON

BRAINBOX VIETNAM

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717, www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405, www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internation-

ally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION 11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997.

Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices.

Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

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business SYNOVATE VIETNAM

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies.

With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

NIELSEN CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM 105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP 30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA) 1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/crisis management.

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RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM 8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT 4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209, www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM (FORMALLY WATSON WYATT AND SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV

writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD. 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4. Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237, www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network.

Also local, domestic and office moves.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855, www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

sive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW 12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

JASMINE COURT 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes.

Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam.

SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclu-

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197, www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

destination

DESTINATION

LISTINGS

DALAT 087 HANOI 089 AROUND HANOI 090 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 090 HCMC DELUXE 092 HCMC MID-RANGE 092 HCMC BUDGET 092 HOI AN & DA NANG 093 HUE & QUANG BINH 096 NHA TRANG 096 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 097

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$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA $$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

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PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 088 TRAVEL NOTES 092 TRAVEL PROMOS 094

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND400,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

DALAT PALACE

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

DREAMS HOTEL 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular.

You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND200,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

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RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES

$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with state-of-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

ICONS 101 CREDIT

PHU QUOC 097 SAPA 097 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 098 TRAVEL SERVICES 098

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS

GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

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DESTINATION

ZERO

HANOI CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI $$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

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Escape to the

ISLANDS PHOTOS BY BUI DANG QUANG

FRASER SUITES

Hoa Le and her gang of travellers escape Hanoi, forgoing the crowds of Halong Bay for the isolation of Co To Island t’s one of those blessed four-day national holidays, so thirteen of us decided to board a van and head to Co To Island — a place in the north east of Ha Long Bay that I’ve always dreamed of visiting.

Our itinerary is to get to Cai Rong Wharf in Van Don Province, about 50km north of Ha Long City, and take a boat from there to Co To. There is no official website about the boat schedule, but I was told by a friend who has just done the same trip that there is one fast boat (90 minutes) at 1.30pm and one slower boat (three hours) every morning. But as it’s the holiday weekend more crossings would be available.

The roads out of Hanoi are crammed with long lines of cars, buses and other vehicles all trying to escape the city at the same time. After a five-hour drive we finally make it to the wharf, and are soon informed that the only fast boat has left. Owners of other boats immediately offered us carriage on their boats. We get on one that’s ready to depart — and it’s overcrowded already.

The light breezes, the ocean smell, the deep blue water and tiny green islands along the way make the three hours on board the boat pass quickly, and soon our destination appears on the horizon.

I

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Jungle Love Popular Vietnamese writer Nguyen Tuan has more than once confessed his love for the beauty and charm of this island. “How can I name the colour of the sea today? Why does it have such an unreasonable blue? Is this the colour of a young banana leaf? Or an old banana leaf? Or is it like the green colour of the young rice field?” he wrote in his book A Journal to Co To. Tuan finally gives up as “the moment you say the colour, it has changed to something different.”

The island has all of the best ingredients for a dream getaway. Hong Van and Van Chay beaches are referred to as sunrise and sunset beaches, respectively. They are 20 minutes away from each other by motorbike and both offer pristine long, sandy beaches.

While Hong Van has smaller waves and is great for swimming, the latter will better suit those with a penchant for paddling and surfing. You’ll need to bring your own board, though.

On Bac Van beach you can rent a local fishing boat (VND600,000 round trip) that will take you to Co To Con — a little island east of Co To that remains uninhabited. A further forty minutes around the island is the east beach of Co To Con, which has the island’s clearest water with beautiful coral

and scores of starfish.

For those who aren’t beach bound, renting a motorbike is another fun way to explore Co To. It gives you the freedom to explore the green rice fields, the peaceful residential areas and the tree-lined streets. You can also test your driving skills on the hilly, rough and unpaved road that leads to Cau My, where you can enjoy views of the island’s most striking cliffs.

Love Valley at the bottom of the hill has huge copper-coloured rocks with a surface similar to that of a fish’s fin, crafted by the water over thousands of years. A must is a ride to the mountaintop lighthouse for panoramic views of the entire island.

INFORMATION Non-Vietnamese visitors require permits to visit Co To. Visit the Quang Ninh Immigration Office’s website at www.quangninh.xnc.vn or call (03) 3379 8114. To apply for permits, Mr Minh from Coto Lodge can also offer assistance and advice. Visit www.coto. vn or email him at minhtour@coto.vn.

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails.

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HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots.

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HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this

Remember to bring your original passport and visa upon your arrival. Copies will not be accepted GETTING THERE For the fast boat contact Mr Quang on 0985 351833. For the slow boat contact Mr Huong on 0912 263597 ACCOMMODATION Coto Lodge www.coto.vn Thanh Trung Hotel www.thanhtrunghotel.vn For camping call Mr Tung on 0986 509564. Expect to pay VND150,000 per person including a seafood meal.

Viet Nam Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid– range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar.

The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique–style hotel offers quite a deal.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

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destination SOFITEL METROPOLE

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH

Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

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$$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

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CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins.

They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself.

A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH $ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bambooconstructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night.

Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the

beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments.

Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this CREDIT

a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best–regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well.

A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

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WINDSOR PLAZA

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its

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destination own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

HCMC DELUXE CONTINENTAL

TRAVEL NOTES WORDS AND PHOTO BY TIM RUSSELL

Deal or No Deal?

Because I work in the tourism industry, people often ask me if I can get them good hotel/resort deals. I usually can, but establishing whether they are the best deals available is becoming increasingly complicated given the huge number of booking channels now in existence.

Let’s say you want to spend a couple of nights at the Tim Hotel (a property that is starting to show its age but still holds a certain charm).

You’ll probably try Googling it, and the first result should be the hotel’s own website, which should, if the hotel’s marketing staff are doing their job properly, offer the best rate. But you might also find the same rate, or cheaper, on any one of the thousands of hotel booking sites (Agoda, Wotif, Expedia et al) that will also appear in your search. You may also find a few local tour operators also offering good rates, and as they can also offer you airport transfers and sightseeing and the like, they may be an attractive option.

Some know-it-alls always claim that the only way to get the best deal is not to book in advance but simply to turn up at the hotel late in the day and haggle over the room rate. It’s not a bad theory, as long as you check in advance that your preferred hotel isn’t full, but in practice the vast majority of hotel reception staff, particularly in Vietnam, don’t have the authority to negotiate room rates and so unless the general manager or revenue manager happen to be hanging around when you arrive, you’ll end up paying the walk-in or rack rate which is always significantly higher than online rates. Furthermore,

many hoteliers in Vietnam would, inexplicably, rather leave a room empty than suffer the indignity of seeing a customer get a good deal.

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER Additionally, the cheap rates you see online are often online-only, locked into an allotment that is only available for web bookings, and which cannot be released for general sale by mere receptionists. The absurdity and inflexibility of this practice are illustrated by an experience I had in Phuket a couple of years ago. I’d booked an absolute bargain online, a four-star hotel with private pool for US$29 per night, for two nights, and on my second day I decided I wanted to stay two more nights, so I asked the receptionist to extend my stay.

She replied that she could, but I could only get the cheap rate if I booked online. So I got my laptop out there and then, put it on the reception desk, and tried to book. The online allocation had sold out, though the room I was in was still physically available for that night, yet the receptionist still refused to book it for me at the same rate. So I checked out and moved into the hotel next door, another four-star, which was available online for US$27, while my original room remained empty for the next two nights (yes, being a pedant I did check).

So how do you make sure you’re getting the best rate? Try a price comparison site like Kayak, use Google, or — my preferred option — befriend someone who works in the industry, and buy them beer on a regular basis. Knowledge is power!

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial.

Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs.

Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine.

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NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers.

Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, sauna and spa.

With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events.

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RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The

Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area.

SABENA HOTEL

$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000, www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit.

A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage

DUNA HOTEL

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GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA

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$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

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$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1 Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in

every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

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FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel Promos ALLEZ BOO RESORT www.allezboo.com We would like to correct last month’s promotion: Enjoy a summer promotion with rooms priced at VND1,490,000 (not VND490,000) on weekdays and VND1,690,000 (not VND690,000) on weekends. Prices are based on two people sharing and include daily breakfast, a welcome drink and a fruit basket. The offer is valid until Oct. 15. We apologise for any inconvenience caused.

MIA RESORT MUI NE www.mianhatrang.com The resort is offering a special “stay three nights pay two” package for all expats and local residents of Vietnam. The package includes daily breakfast for two people at Sandals Restaurant, free Wi-Fi and in-house guest cocktail hour vouchers. Prices range from VND4,080,000 for a Sapa House Room and VND5,800,000 for a Superior Garden View Bungalow to VND7,020,000 for a Deluxe Garden View Bungalow. Valid until Aug. 31.

NOVOTEL PHAN THIET Escape for a weekend and enjoy their seafood Saturday night.

The package includes two nights stay from Friday to Sunday or from Saturday to Monday, seafood barbecue buffet dinner on Saturday night, American buffet breakfast and daily use of tennis courts and fitness centre.

Prices start at VND2,721,000 per person based on double/twin share. Valid till Dec. 23. Email info@ phanthietresorts.com for more information.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG www.novotel-nhatrang.com Vous Spa launches a new Vietnamese Traditional package

— a combination of traditional Vietnamese massage with herbal footbath followed by a natural Vietnamese facial and scalp massage. A cup of Vietnamese tea completes the experience.

The package is 2 hours and 50 minutes. Priced at VND1,800,000/ person. When ordering any package at Vous Spa this month, enjoy one body massage or body scrub for 60 minutes.

SHERATON NHA TRANG www.sheraton-nhatrang.com Enjoy their School Holiday Getaways package that includes accommodation in a Deluxe Ocean View Room, daily buffet breakfast for two adults and two children below 12-years-old and more.

Prices start at VND2,700,000++ per room per night. Book before Jun. 15 for a holiday between Jun. 1 and Aug. 15. Minimum two nights stay and only open to residents of Vietnam. For more information email reservations.nhatrang@ sheraton.com and quote rate code “HOTSKOL”.

FUSION MAIA RESORT DANANG www.fusionmaiadanang.com The hotel’s summer deal, available until Jun. 30, invites guests to stay in their own private villa with swimming pool, sunken bath, living room and sun lounger.

Guests can enjoy breakfast and treat themselves to inclusive spa treatments. There is also a free shuttle service between the hotel and Hoi An. Rates are VND4,725,000++ per night.

For more information email reservation-dn@fusion-resorts. com NOVOTEL HALONG BAY www.novotelhalongbay.com Enjoy a relaxing one-night

HUY HOANG 1

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stay with a buffet breakfast and 60-minute foot reflexology at In Balance Spa. This offer includes complimentary usage of outdoor swimming pool. Priced at VND1,450,000++/person (for twin or double occupancy) and valid till Sep. 30.

Super Saturday Poolside BBQ is back, serving a variety of Ha Long seafood with a live music performance. Priced at VND525,000++/adult and VND262,500++/children. The offer includes one-hour free flow of local beer, house wine and soft drinks.

CARAVELLE www.caravellehotel.com Deluxe single from VND4,065,000++ per night with buffet breakfast and airport transfers includes complimentary unlimited use of internet in room, daily buffet breakfast and twoway airport transfers. Minimum two-nights stay. Valid till Sep. 30. For more info email rsvn@ caravellehotel.com RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON www.renaissance-saigon.com Enjoy a stay in a Deluxe City View room. Choose either a 30-minute foot massage at The Renaissance Spa or a cocktail at the Atrium Lounge. Priced at VND3,520,000++ / night for 2 persons based on a minimum two nights stay.

Groups meetings can enjoy a welcome cocktail for one hour for all participants, an upgrade to river view rooms (maximum of five rooms), 1 person on complimentary basis for every fifteen paying rooms and a late check-out till 3pm. Offer valid until Sep. 30 based on a minimum two nights stay.

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town.

Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

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$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort.

The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

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LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at

destination

destination

AIRLINES

BIKE RENTALS

AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

HUE & QUANG BINH

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330. www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488. www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098. www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com

CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month.

Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh, Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

GYM

SUN SPA RESORT

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal.

The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences.

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences.

With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@ gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara–nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

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SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA $$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

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WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777 www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant.

Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning.

Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

NOVOTEL PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT $$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.novotel.com/2067 This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view.

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PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam

is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay.

Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

SHADES APARTMENTS

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options.

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

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LA VERANDA $$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully–designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

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VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT $$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French–Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid–back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented

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destination

destination view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

$$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria–Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi An-styled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation.

Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools.

VICTORIA SAPA

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

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TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere.

Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands

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$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

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REX HOTEL

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

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TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS 7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD 113C Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia.

AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies.

With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM 195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh, Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour

operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER 70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO 64 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service.

Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

FLY VIETNAM www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals.

Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

KIM TRAVEL 270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside ac-

commodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD 28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

TU TRANG TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@ tutrangtravel.com.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure.com for more details.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC 60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and

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OUT & ABOUT

LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 100 CAFES 103 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 104 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 105 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 105 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 107 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 112 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 113

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 115 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 115 COLUMNS FOODIE CORNER 106 CAFE CRITIQUE 112 FOOD PROMOS 114

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboo-style décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the latenight party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

AMBER ROOM

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW

punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

ALLEZ BOO

out & about

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LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events.

MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music.

Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BLUE GECKO

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AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League.

One of the longest running watering holes in town.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an

underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York.

Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere.

Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylightdrenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike. Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

BUDDHA BAR

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CLOUD 9

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet.

It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

CRAZY BUFFALO

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

FUSE TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space

means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GO2 INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

GOSSIP HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners.

A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS 28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech

INTERNATIONAL 7 Thao Dien, Q2 3pm to 12am daily Tucked away in An Phu, this long-standing establishment provides great food and drinks at reasonable prices. With a long bar, pool table, darts, live sports, good music, and friendly staff, it’s easy to relax and have a good time. A variety of cuisine is offered, from beef pies and burgers to beef tenderloin, spare ribs and Swiss-style fondue. Quiz night on Wednesdays, ladies night on Tuesdays and live music every first Friday of the month.

June 2012 Word | 101

out & about Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

ICE BLUE

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so– regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

LAVISH

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices.

However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LE PUB

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden

seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the French-run Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

LUSH

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups.

Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

OCEAN CLUB

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TECHNO / VIETNAMESE POP Nha Rong Port Area, 5-7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 6269 6999 www.oceanclub.com.vn/club 9pm to late Following the demise of the now nearmythical Starwars, Ocean Club has filled the void with a sensory overload of neon lighting, outlandish décor and a booming

soundsystem that tests the limitations of what the human can take. A couple of thousand people can easily squeeze into the huge club hall with dozens of tables, booths and VIP areas dotted throughout. The solar system print on the ceiling and futuristic designs will have your eyes darting every which way whilst a relentless playlist of trance, techno and house is mixed by Vietnamese DJs. Then there’s the live Vietnamese music, too. Make sure to dress the part for the catwalk, this is Vietnamese clubbing at its most contemporary and luxurious.

PHATTY’S

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

QING

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, boothlike, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celtic-themed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home–style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE

VELVET

3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

SPOTTED COW

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY)

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

VASCO’S

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

CAFES OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes.

So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this

102 | Word June 2012

slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CENTRO ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains.

Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

CITY GARDEN CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends.

Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbuckslike work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

GLORIA JEAN’S INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a

out & about

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

I’M YOURS MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts.

Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare.

Live music on the weekends.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s Frenchstyle wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including

sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

PETITE NOTE MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American.

Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

STELLA CAFFE ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs.

Although, the service is questionable.

THI CAFÉ

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RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

TRUNG NGUYEN 50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the ever-expanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

UP CAFE

KABIN

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport.

With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP DYNASTY CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, round-table dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, familyfriendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf.

Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe.

Booking advised.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ) FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two.

Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, two-storey

eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town.

A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000.

Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent.

MID-RANGE BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range

Cafe fare made with American flair

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warmtoned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

TROIS GOURMANDS CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower 169a De Tham @ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

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of fare from all ends of the subcontinent.

From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the threestorey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

foodie CORNER

INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run

by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

McRiceburgers ONE OF VIETNAM’S MORE unusual culinary creations received considerable international media coverage last month. Touted as Hanoi’s answer to Ronald McDonald, the VietMac (207 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, www.vietmac.com.vn) is a local reboot of the classic burger recipe — with two rice patties replacing the hamburger bun. Now that they’re being served in Ho Chi Minh City on the Phu Nhuan end of the airport road, it’s only a mildly expensive taxi ride to go and see what they taste like.

Try to hold back on the enthusiasm when you do. While VietMac’s exterior looks promising enough, the inside looks more like a neglected Lotteria than one of McDonald’s expensive corporate designs. It’s actually situated in the lobby of an office building — the main doors open onto an abandoned reception area that doubles as a storeroom. Hardly a great first impression.

The menu is both inexpensive and straightforward — you can select your VietMac from a variety of meats and sauces, and

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have it by itself or in a combo with a coke and a fruit salad. On the day of the visit they were out of New Zealand beefsteak and didn’t have any fruit left for the salad, so I settled for a beef mince burger patty with pineapple sauce and a coke, which set me back all of VND48,000.

MAC YOUR DAY The first thing that must be said is that the VietMac doesn’t taste remotely like a burger. If that proves anything, it’s that the essence of the burger might just be in the bread, not the fillet.

If you’ve ever gone into a local food court and ordered a plate of stir-fried meat that gets served with two slices of tomato and cucumber, a lettuce leaf and a mound of rice, that’s your VietMac right there.

It’s as simple as that. It tastes good, sure — but what is the point? Why serve perfectly ordinary, everyday Vietnamese lunches in greaseproof paper? To introduce non-Vietnamese cuisine in a medium where the taste is going to clash with expectations?

MUMTAZ To serve Vietnamese with exactly what they could get anywhere else unrolled on a plate?

The answer has to be that it’s just a pretty cool idea. The rice patties are kind of fun, and you can see Vietnamese youths who don’t particularly like greasy American fast food going for this in a big way. When this chain goes international later this year, people outside Vietnam will probably love it.

It’s certainly better for you than a Jollibee cheeseburger, but this is still fast food — a quick lunch for busy people on the go.

And for all those nonVietnamese out there, don’t forget that half the reason you’re prepared to believe a chicken fillet burger is a real meal is because it doesn’t have rice in it. If you don’t live nearby, it may not be worth going across town just for a VietMac — but if you’re in the area or happen to be staying at the Mövenpick next door, take it as another item to be crossed off your list of ‘things I must try while living in Vietnam’. — Michael Arnold

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

PEACHES

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

TANDOOR

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ

INDUS INDIAN

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family.

MID-RANGE AL FRESCO’S

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INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service.

For a full list of restaurants check the website.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays.

A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyone-knows-yourname kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here.

Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu.

Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

DOMINO'S PIZZA AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation,

Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

IMPERIAL RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russian-run venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor.

Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

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out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials.

BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf.

Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas.

BUDDHA BAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2 A large screen TV is the focus of this joint. The décor is pleasant and the menu draws from across Asia.

CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery.

GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi.

Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials.

SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids.

TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available.

Call for home delivery.

out & about KITA RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

MOGAMBO PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars.

A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SCOTT AND BINH'S

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INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”.

Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

SNAP CAFE INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area.

Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

TRADERS

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in

between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

WARDA MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

ZERO RESTAURANT & BAR

+ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 15 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 4593 www.zerorestaurant.com 10am to midnight A great place to while away several hours eating and drinking some of Saigon’s newest cuisine together with international wines, Zero is a boutique and intimate restaurant and bar. The food is varied and includes western and Vietnamese breakfasts, and lunches boast perennial favourites like burgers, fish n chips, 4 n 20 Aussie meat pies and some tasty local fare, all prepared with a twist. Daily happy hour from 3pm to 7pm.

House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

BOOMERANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafront-style restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australian-themed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

BLU BAR & GRILL INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex.

Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

BROTZEIT GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206 www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers well-

known German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

CHARNER CAFÉ EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

FIGARO

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ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand.

Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well

ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

MID TO TOP ALIBI

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INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

BOAT HOUSE

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat

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out & about

DISTRICT 7 CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178 CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality.

ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196 SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480 SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare.

THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868 TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166 WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461 YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

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out & about known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel.

Does excellent cocktails, and,three– course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily.

The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc. Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

MY PLACE

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonialera villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastro-pub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas.

Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

PASHA

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with

Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas.

Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene.

The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

SKEWERS

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT

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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

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CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

BLANCHY’S TASH JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and late-night revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets. Check out their sashimi and tartares. Mouthwateringly good.

Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine.

Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

PARKVIEW INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions.

Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections.

The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant, posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge.

The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop.

A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm to 8:30pm. Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the

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private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

SHRI

ALVELO THIS MODEST COFFEE STALL, located at 13 Nguyen Thoung Hien, Q3 is a great caffeine pit stop on those tiresome work runs. The new location of Alvelo, which used to be on Su Van Hanh in District 10, has not detracted from the superb flavours and concoctions that are brewed here.

The coffee stall is hidden in a little nook and is easy to miss as you weave down the narrow road. A large counter takes up much of the space, and behind it are rows of different Monin syrup flavours nestling on shelves against a fresh green and yellow striped wallpaper background. There are two chairs to the side and a couple of fold out stools where patrons can sit and wait for their takeaway brew or enjoy a quick rest. A smiling barista plays music off his laptop and engages customers with friendly chit chat as he serves delicious cups of beverage.

FAST & FRIENDLY The menu is small but perfunctory. Along with the

DRINKS: 5/5

112 | Word June 2012

standard coffee offerings such as cappuccino, latte and espresso (all served hot or cold for under VND30,000), there is also a selection of frappucinos for VND27,000, including flavours such as cereal, cookie and mocha.

A peruse of the smoothie section also serves as a pleasing read. Yoghurt smoothies include flavours such as blueberry, raspberry and mango and go for VND27,000. There are also cookie milkshakes offering vanilla, chocolate and green mint for VND29,000. On the next page, is a refreshing soda selection boasts lychee, mint, kiwi and blueberry amongst other fruity flavours.

Though the stall is small, it seems to attract regular traffic as bike after bike stops to pick up a takeaway drink. Alvelo has all the quality trappings of an international coffee shop with fine flavours and fast service, yet still manages to retain a friendly street stall atmosphere with its open store front and competitive prices.

Definitely worth a stop.

AMBIENCE: 4/5

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270– degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

STRATA INTERNATIONAL Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750 www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET MARGHERITA ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with panwestern cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The

Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

STELLA CAFFE

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space.

Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP BASILICO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes.

For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine

sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END LA BRACERIA PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bambooclad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoalgrilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE CIAO BELLA

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NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

DRAGON NOODLE JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the

menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

MUS MUS JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish.

And it’s cheap, too.

KABUTO TOKYO

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JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) culture” to Saigon’s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OOO / MARUSAN YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm.

Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a

food Promos style

KOH THAI First Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Koh Thai is offering a 30 percent discount on all weekend lunchtime bills. The restaurant is also offering a daily 20 percent discount on all dinner time food and drinks and a 15 percent discount on take-away orders. On Children’s Day on Jun. 1, kids can enjoy a free drink and dessert.

MEKONG MERCHANT & MM BISTRO SAIGON www.mekongmerchant.com Celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee at Mekong Merchant and taste their classic coronation chicken dish on Jun. 2. They will also offer a selection of cupcakes to enjoy with a selection of classic English teas.

THE DECK www.thedecksaigon.com Celebrate Father’s Day on Jun. 17 with a welcome cocktail for all dads and a sumptuous Father’s Day buffet. Happy hour is daily from 4pm to 7pm and includes 50 percent off cocktails.

CARAVELLE www.caravellehotel.com On Jun. 4 savour selected Cordier Wines presented by Reflections Restaurant’s chef Darren Watson and Thibault Odent, brand ambassador South-East Asia for Cordier Club Elite Wines. Priced at VND1,480,000++/pax.

From Jun. 4 to Jun. 9 enjoy British cooking at Restaurant Nineteen’s lunch buffet. Featuring British favourites such as roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, bubble and squeak and more.

Priced at VND512,000++/pax.

Golden brown mille feuille pastries, also known as Napoleons, are invading the Lobby Lounge from Jun. 8 to Jun. 14. Each slice goes for VND118,000++.

From Jun. 8 to Jun. 14, a four-course ‘Champs Elysees Menu’ will revive memories of evenings in the City of Lights with traditionally prepared French

favorites such as foie gras, cognac lobster bisque and Grand Marnier ice-cream parfait. Priced at VND1,098,000++/pax.

Fathers’ Day brunch and dinner buffet at Nineteen Restaurant this Jun. 17 with fresh seafood offerings, local delicacies and international delights. Priced at VND1,144,000++/pax with unlimited orders of martinis and margaritas, free flow of house Spanish and Chilean wines and one flute of Taittinger Champagne NEW WORLD SAIGON www.newworldhotels.com From Jun. 11 to Jun. 24, Dynasty will present a selection of beef dishes including braised US beef short ribs with lemongrass and ginger. Guests can also enjoy chef Ho’s signature beef dishes, all combined in one seven-course set menu priced at VND735,000 per person including a free flow of Chinese tea. The special menu may also be combined with matching wines from Cellier d’ Asie for a package price of VND1,155,000 per person.

From Jun. 15 to Jun. 24, diners at Parkview can enjoy an Italian Food Galore promotion.

The culinary offerings include delicacies cooked according to centuries-old recipes from the hills of Tuscany to EmiliaRomagna and the shores of Sicily. Priced at VND1,029,000 per person, including a glass of bubbling Italian Prosecco.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG www.novotel-nhatrang.com On Jun. 1 kids can enjoy a buffet dinner and bring home homemade sorbet. One soft drink or fruit juice for children under 12 when joining the buffet dinner with their parents. Located at The Square and is priced at VND420,000++/ adult, half price for children under 12 and free for those under 6.

Lobby bar launches a promo for New Zealand ice cream: buy two get one free. Lobby bar will open until the final whistle of the EURO 2012 season with a 70” screen.

See more at wordhcmc.com PARK HYATT www.restaurants.parkhyattsaigon. com Sunday Brunch at Opera this Father’s Day on Jun. 17. Enjoy free-flow bubbly, alongside salmon wellington, bone-in roast rib fillet with yorkshire pudding, and more.

Dads will also walk away with the dine and redeem 20 percent discount voucher, good for 2 Lam Son. Priced at VND1,100,000 with free-flow prosecco and VND 1,700,000 with free-flow Champagne.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ sgnbr-renaissance-riversidehotel-saigon Enjoy hot pot with freshly caught seafood, delectable broths and a cosy place to get together. Every Thursday from Apr. 1 to Jun. 30 at Kabin. Priced at VND616,000++/ person.

Feast on an array of seafood from fresh oysters to mussels, Vietnamese snails, tiger prawns, deep sea fish and lobsters. Served daily at Riverside Café. Priced at VND640,000++/person (food only) and VND840,000++/person (including free flow of red or white wine, beer and soft drinks).

Kabin’s “all you can eat” dim sum lunch and “all you can eat” dinner. Brunch — dim sum “all you can eat” is served on Sundays and is priced at VND540,000++/ person. Lunch — dim sum “all you can eat” is served daily and priced at VND450,000++/person. Dinner — “all you can eat” is priced at VND540,000++/person.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA Sofitel welcomes two-Michelinstar guest chef Christophe Pelé Olivier Restaurant from Jun. 25 to Jun. 29. Originally from Paris and protégé to world-renowned chefs, Pierre Gagnaire and Bruno Cirino, chef Pelé will amaze with his signature dishes with a combination of contemporary and classic French cuisine. For more information email H2077-FB1@ sofitel.com.

downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

YAMANEKO JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation.

Here it is faultless.

SUSHI DINING AOI SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039 www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan.

Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

NATHALIE'S PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

MID-TO-TOP KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3823 4423 www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and

cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232, www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person.

A Taste of Authenticity

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1. Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills.

The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candlelit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

out & about BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

NAM GIAO

PHO HOA

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak.

Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000.

Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Hue-style eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

BO NE LE HONG STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fan-cooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients.

Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO 99 PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deep-fried crab spring rolls),

bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this

eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asianstyle, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinh-branded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of

specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this well-known just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

NHA HANG NGON STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the

background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces.

For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order.

Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

NAM PHAN PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm.

Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist.

Good wine list.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

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CHI LA GIAC MO UYEN LINH LAST WEEK:

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CHIA CACH BINH YEN QUOC THIEN

SOUND & VISION LISTINGS

ARTS CLASSES 118 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 118 GALLERIES 118 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 119 PERFORMING ARTS 122 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 123

NEW ENTRY

ARTS CLASSES BETTER DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS

REAL LOVE

www.BDPworkshops.com 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

KIMESE ft JUSTA TEE LAST WEEK:

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XIN LOI EM

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NOO PHUOC THINH LAST WEEK:

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HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780, www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

HOANG ANH KHANG LAST WEEK:

10

06

THU CUOI

07

MOT CHUT QUEN ANH THOI

08

SAU MOI GIAC MO

Mr T ft YANBI & HANG BING BONG LAST WEEK:

BAO THY LAST WEEK:

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THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire.

All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN’S SPACE

DONG NHI NEW ENTRY

4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

BOOKS & MAGAZINES ARTBOOK

09

LA KHI

10

TINH VE NOI DAU

NGUYEN MINH HANG NEW ENTRY

GIANG TRANG LAST WEEK: 10

FAHASA

WEEK ENDING MAY 2012

118 | Word June 2012

43 Dong Khoi , Q1, Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English,

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

COLUMNS VIETNAM TOP 10 118 FOR THE RECORD 119 ROAD RULES 120 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 122 IN THE FRAME 123 French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallic-run bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second–hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC) 2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam.

Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK 175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps.

Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1. Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer

reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY 31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Founded originally in 2000 by Viet Kieu Quynh Pham and partner Robert Cianchi as an online resource on the Vietnamese art scene. Initially providing nurture and promotion for the more abstract contemporary works of Vietnamese painters considered too self indulgent for normal exhibition, the gallery now follows a more international programme and helps to advance the works of a select group of locally based contemporary artists. Runs regular exhibitions. Check their website for details.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON 324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes.

Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

PARTICULAR GALLERY Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of

promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

for the record

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY 53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

ZEROSTATION 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

ED SHEERAN + CURRENTLY SITTING AT NUMBER eight in the UK charts, Ed Sheeran’s debut studio album entitled + has been making waves since its release in September 2011. Ed Sheeran gained popularity after his appearance in the BBC Introducing tent at Glastonbury last summer. At the 2012 Brit Awards, he scooped awards for British Breakthrough Act and British Male Solo Artist. The album includes singles The A Team, Drunk, Lego House and You Need Me. His mix of folk and grime offers an enjoyable alternative in a pop-dominated music industry.

Sheeran’s technique of mixing rap with beat boxing, a folk/pop voice and acoustic guitar is resonant throughout the album. The A Team pairs a soulful voice with a folk guitar accompaniment, setting the tone nicely for an album that deviates from the standard electronically altered pop music that usually dominates the charts.

A HARRY POTTER SINGER Lego House is a faster tune with RnB and rap undertones though

it’d be more refreshing if it played homage to Sheeran’s Grime roots.

Incidentally, the music video for Lego House stars Rupert Grint, the man at the centre of rumours that circulated speculating whether Sheeran was in fact the same person as the Harry Potter actor.

You Need Me leans slightly too far towards chart pop, but the album is saved by the final song Give Me Love, which shows off his husky vocal chords perfectly.

The eerie tones of the song bear more than a vague resemblance to Damien Rice’s The Blower’s Daughter. It’s difficult for the album to compete with Sheeran’s live performance at Glastonbury 2011, where while standing on the stage he recorded beat boxes and harmonies then played them on repeat while singing his vocals over them, thus creating a multi-layered performance singing solo. However, this is a debut album and with the UK festivals coming soon, Sheeran will hopefully be able to steer clear of becoming another clichéd studio pop artist.

sound & vvi vision ision sion si on

road

BAR BUI 39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3. Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

Rules

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

Pat Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

CACOPHONY 57H Tu Xuong, Q3. Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture.

The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

as standard with tubeless tyres and a front disc brake, which is a must from a safety aspect. These are a good choice for a Saigon city run-around.

HI PAT, IS IT OKAY TO DRIVE MY YAMAHA NUOVO ON HARD SAND ON THE BEACH? WILL THE SAND OR SALT WATER AFFECT MY BIKE?

HI PAT, I’M A FIVE-FOOT, 45KG WOMAN WHO HAS NEVER DRIVEN A MOTORBIKE IN SAIGON BEFORE AND WITH QUESTIONABLE ABILITY ON A BICYCLE. HOWEVER, I'D LIKE TO START DRIVING A MOTORBIKE SO I CAN BE MORE INDEPENDENT AND NOT HAVE TO RELY ON XE OMS AND TAXIS. WHAT KIND OF BIKE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND FOR ME? At the end of the day it’s about finding a bike that you’re comfortable on. Speed is not

120 | Word June 2012

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9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

an issue for Saigon daily use, so you should think about a smaller automatic model so you can build up your confidence and get to grips with the Saigon traffic.

Yamaha have a new model, the Nozza, which is fully automatic, so you don’t have to worry about gears. It’s a nice little scooter and brand new they’re available for just over VND30 million and come with a two-year warranty.

They’re also produced for the Asian market, so the seat height is low at only 75cm, which should make it suitable. They’re 113cc and come

If you park or use your motorcycle in salty locations, such as near to the coast or if you travel on coastal roads, extra cleaning and corrosion preventing measures will definitely be necessary. If you store your motorcycle while salt is on its surfaces, the salt will absorb moisture from the air and cause accelerated and aggressive corrosion. This is especially true if you store your motorcycle outside or under a cover.

Never leave salt on your motorcycle, ever. Invest in a good chamois leather and don’t use household cleaning agents for washing your bike, even over here you can pick up automotive shampoos. As a general rule keep your bike away from these areas.

CARMEN 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

JARDIN D’AMOUR 8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LA HABANA

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6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

METALLIC BAR

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3. Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smoke-free atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues.

Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

NAPOLY BAR 7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

NIGHTSPOT 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of acclaimed US-Canadian band Liquid.

Reservations are essential.

PACHARAN

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97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own.

Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1. Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part

decks, drums & rock n' roll

of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SAX N’ ART JAZZ CLUB

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28 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 8472 www.saxnart.com 5pm to 12am Unique renditions of classic jazz compositions by the likes of Miles Davies, John Coltrane and Charlie Parker can be heard from 9pm until midnight daily at this non-smoking establishment. Saxophonist Tran Manh Tuan and the Sax N’ Art house band regularly performs a unique blend of contemporary jazz and blues mixed with central highlands Vietnamese influences in this cosy, brick-walled bohemian boîte.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

What started out as a trio of Filipino musicians became a group of talented international artists sharing a love for music. Words by Lyra Dacio WHY UGWAE? The band was formed three years ago as a trio of Filipinos — Janel Orbida on guitar and vocals, Mervin Espina on bass and Oji Valencia on percussion or guitar. We settled on the name Ugwae from the name of Master Oogway in Kung Fu Panda.

We play reggae, dub, world music and ska covers. In time, our musician friends began jamming with us, adding more layers. Before we knew it, we’d developed this eclectic world music-reggae-dub sound that just keeps evolving.

We now have six core members.

From the original three, Baylin Coddington (clarinet/saxophone/ synthesizer), Moe Wahid (percussion) and Mariano Agostini (trumpet/ percussion/vocals) have added flavour to the Ugwae. However, we still have members who come and go so Alec Schacner (bass/ percussion/guitar/vocals) and Julan Masson (bass/guitar/percussion) jams with us. Half of the band has had formal and classical training for their main instruments. The other half are self-taught.

ARE THERE LOTS OF THINGS GOING ON IN THE MUSIC SCENE? There are many musicians in the local scene that are struggling to offer something different. But they need the support of the music venues and the general audience.

This means there is a variety of things happening in the Saigon music scene but it's moving forward very slowly. I just hope it doesn't stop.

WHERE CAN WE SEE YOU PERFORM? At the moment, we haven't been playing regular gigs because band members come and go. However, we did have some gigs at RFC, Yoko Bar and the Russian Bar. We also throw the event, DON'T FEED THE MONKEY! so be on the lookout for that.

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? The band is at a transition period at the moment with the members so we can't commit to anything regularly until we've finalised the member line-up. But we are planning a few events with other bands and artists for the next few months.

We will be featuring artists that play instruments like, didgeridoo, melodica, saz (Turkish guitar) and more. We will be playing some covers but mostly improv. Part of the aim is to encourage artists to be more creative and original and also to get the Saigon audience to open their minds to all different forms of music.

To be updated on Ugwae’s performances, check out their Facebook page

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

VASCO’S

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74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues.

Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts. Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else in-between. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

WI-FI

MEGASTAR CINEMA

NON-SMOKING AREA

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn

DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

SAIGON PLAYERS www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

{in the frame}

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

PENCIL IT IN Words by Stephanie Cantrell.

Sketch by Katie Bourner IN CITY WHERE THE ART SCENE is growing every year, more opportunities are arising for amateur artists in Ho Chi Minh City. Pandora Studio Café (2A Nguyen Van Cu, Q1) offers a couple of life drawing workshops, suitable for budding artists of all abilities. On Mondays from 8pm to 10.15pm, expat and amateur artist Katie Bourner hosts a workshop that through word of mouth is slowly growing in popularity.

“It’s a chance for people to hone their skills or just take a break from the rush of the city and unwind after work,” says Katie.

The emphasis of the workshop is on each artist drawing for their own pleasure, with no prior art experience necessary. A different person models each week, which provides lots of opportunity to sketch different body shapes and develop your skills. “We try to get people of different ages, build, weight and colouring. We have had young and old models, Vietnamese and western, and large and petite.”

Prices for the Monday workshops are VND40,000 a session, which covers the model fee and some basic art material such as pencils and charcoal.

CYBER PUNK CAFE A second workshop is held every fortnight on Sundays from 3pm to 6pm, run by the café manager, Nguyen Que Huong.

This workshop is free though attendees are expected to purchase a drink from the café.

Paper, pencils and charcoal are provided. The Sunday session offers the chance to draw a Cosplay model (short for costume play, where the model dons different costumes.) Each session has a different theme and offers a different challenge.

Pandora Studio offers a perfect respite for amateur artists in the city. The cyberpunk interior is worth a visit in itself and there is an art book library upstairs for reference and inspiration. Artists can peruse the books over a coffee or cocktail or sit and draw in the cosy studio upstairs in this café-cum-studio.

The emergence of workshops such as these is proof that Saigon isn’t an artless city; there are growing opportunities for art-lovers to pursue their passion in an unassuming, non-critical art environment.

Contact Katie Bourner katie_ bourner@hotmail.co.uk or Nguyen Que Huong (0908 101461) for further details.

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LEISURE & WELLNESS

BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOUR LATIN ROCK BAND Contact Claudio Duek on Facebook.

Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members.

BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes.

CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND TEL: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events.

DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent.

DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam.

DJ SEIP Tel: 0934014091 www.djseip.com German DJ and Turntablist, DJ Seip, plays the hottest hip-hop, rn’b, dance and house tracks and can be seen playing at most of the prominent Saigon venues.

DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional

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DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency.

EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply.

JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week.

MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair.

RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon.

SNAKEBITE — MUSIC WITH VENOM! Tel: 0909 169 033 (Andy) andy@andysgraphics.com Looking for music with soul? Then call Snakebite the next time you’re planning a wedding, event or private party. Snakebite play music that is suitable for all ages and can even help with invitations.

THE WANDERLUSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs.

WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 124 BASKETBALL 124 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 124 COOKING CLASSES 124 CRICKET 125 DANCING 126 FITNESS 126 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 126 GOLF 126 LEISURE - GENERAL 126 SPORTS CLASSES 127 TENNIS 128

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 128 YOGA & MEDITATION 128 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 128 COSMETIC SURGERY 129 DENTAL 129 HAIRDRESSERS 130 MEDICAL 130 PHARMACIES 131 SALONS 131 SPAS 131

SAIGON EXPATS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area.

Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG 5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun.

Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB 8 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

leisure & wellness every Sunday afternoon from 1.30-5pm.

Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes.

Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm.

The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 351 22 764 www.vietnamcookery.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions.

The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION) Manish Sogani Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS:

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington. Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill. Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta. Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri. Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit. Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms.

Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi.

Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets

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leisure & wellness DANCING DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340, www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1).

It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”.

Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS AIS SPORTS CENTRE Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the–art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool.

Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD Tel: 0947 771326, www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the Boathouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Evening sessions start at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Riverside. Contact Cyril for more information

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR Tel: 0983 789 318, jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes,

126 | Word June 2012

leisure & wellness weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports.

Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning.

Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors.

Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE

steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

PUSH CLIMBING

SQUASH

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134, www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

STAR FITNESS GYM

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop– in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym.

Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym.

Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie–calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

PAUL SIMOS

THE LANDMARK CLUB

NTFQ2

www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO. New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi,

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

SAIGON RAIDERS jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches.

Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

RAINBOW DIVERS 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball.

Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon.

Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA 25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000.

Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT 77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9. Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches.

Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long– established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

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leisure & wellness Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter.

Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II 796 Su Van Hanh, Q10, Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 , Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club.

You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency.

VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 3836 4344 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training and Translation provides Vietnamese language training by experienced and qualified teachers and certifies translation from experts for all kinds of materials and documents, from a page to a book.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation.

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leisure & wellness Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA Tel: 090 835 2265, www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance.

Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO 54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available.

Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym.

Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR 33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2. Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and

music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467, www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes.

A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

YOGA SANTI

269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com

Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes.

All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM 8 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

DR CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT American Chiropractic Clinic, 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 chantel@vietnamchiropractic.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam practicing out of American Chiropractic Clinic.

Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation. Rehabilitation may include combination of hands on manual therapy,

specific exercise prescription and other modalities.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0757 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Major medical centre that also offers acupuncture and traditional medicine services. The international doctors are highly qualified in their respective disciplines and speak English, Italian and French.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE 273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC 290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping.

The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7. Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and

restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3392 1080 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses stateof-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800, www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

SARAH MARTIN Tel: 0937 442 516, www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING Tel: 0918 591 933, www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking.

Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

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EUROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

JASMINE

17-17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Dentists from Japan and France providing total dental care. Open Mondays from 8.00am to 8.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 5.00pm. Emergency hotline: 0909 551 916 / 0916 352 940.

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 , Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

SAKURA DENTAL CLINIC 90 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3829 8453 96 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5415 6868 www.sakuradental.com.vn An international-standard private dental healthcare group established in the 1990s and led by a Vietnamese senior dentist graduated from Tokyo Medical & Dental University (Japan). Comprised of a team of local and foreign dental specialists, providing total dental care services from dental check-ups to specialist works like whitening, braces, implants, and sleep apnea mouth guards.

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR 37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com

A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

THE SALON 21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy (Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment.

Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000.

MEDICAL AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10, Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye

hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

CARE 1 Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports

medicine. A non–profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

THE STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescriptiononly. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN 40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as

its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA 61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

QING SPA

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999, www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234, www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors.

Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

s

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

130 | Word June 2012

June 2012 Word | 131

STYLE

LISTINGS

HO CHI MINH CITY

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 132 CLOTHING STORES 133 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 135 SPORTSWEAR 135 TAILORS 135 INTERIORS ART 135 CRAFT 136 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 136 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 137 LIGHTING 137

VIETNAM

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 2K BAG SHOP 362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa, Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

BIRKENSTOCK

BEYOND WELLNESS

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B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR FORMAL WEAR SHOES

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BAGS JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES SWIMWEAR UNDERWEAR

3RD FLOOR, CRESCENT PLAZA, 105 TON DAT TIEN ST., PHU MY HUNG, TAN PHU WARD, DIST. 7, HCMC, VIETNAM L_[

clubmgr@cswellness.vn

style visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 138 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 138 MOBILE PHONES 138 GROCERIES BAKERIES 138 CATERING 139 GROCERIES 139 LIQUOR & WINE 139

wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON 1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow.

Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH 18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and well-organised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS 127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

JEMMA 174 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI 67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million.

The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI 146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS 115 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million.

Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TIC TAC WATCHES 72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY 9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its dĂŠcor and design with a big wooden and glass door.

Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters.

Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

MID-RANGE

YB DESIGNS

BAM SKATESHOP

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2. Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap CafĂŠ, YB is a small shop with simple dĂŠcor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings.

Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite.

Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON 147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA 171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple dĂŠcor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attrac-

tive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000.

Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE 52 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX 118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissance-style columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including

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style FRENCH CONNECTION

IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts.

Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493, www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million.

There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

ER-COUTURE

GAYA CLOTHING

85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye.

Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eye-catching box-shaped shelves.

Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

BOSSINI

43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

D’BLANC

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs.

The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

LABELLA

LEVI’S 47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city.

Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

LITI 40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA 61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993. www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-towear clothing for work or play

L’USINE First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MAI’S 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continen-

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tal Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories.

Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A longsleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

MANGO

UMBRELLA

40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 , Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT 137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops.

Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000.

Has European-sized t-shirts.

35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailor-made clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

TOP-END CHLOE 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed

on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish.

The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE 211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from onepiece bikinis through to two-pieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns.

Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

JOCKEY Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear.

Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA 139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

SSUZI 127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral

styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available.

Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

TRIUMPH Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good.

However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

WACOAL 94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products

related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG 270 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes.

They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR 39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles.

Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY 50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars.

Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

SONG 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1 Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

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style DOGMA 1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALLERY 244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town.

Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run

by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y 257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers.

Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI 213C Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists.

Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1 Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists.

Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG 234 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space

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offers a comprehensive range of products.

An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the BGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGUYEN FRERES 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house.

Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY 83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA 209 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in

many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME 20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phubased shop stocks antique repro furniture.

All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs.

Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA

brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets.

There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA 327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by wellknown brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware.

Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

ESTHETIC 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-toorder furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

BOCONCEPT

FEELING TROPIC 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks.

Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS 4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI 53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture

THE FURNITURE HOUSE 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery.

Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive post-

World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally.

You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM 46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING 59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors.

Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials.

From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs.

Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE 3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO 51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE

UNITY 12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com

Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN 152 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailor-made environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1 It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand.

Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials.

Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE 98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are

style

style

Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to install in current sockets. Using green materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH 28 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a profes-

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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sional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small.

The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000.

Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE 11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1, Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony.

They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD 81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER 236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are

found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million.

Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

LONG BINH COMPUTER 50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers.

Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU 125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN 428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO. 227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN 352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE 382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG 182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292. www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications.

The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices.

Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A 328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087. www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS 54 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS 33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1. Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh. Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORÉE 216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches.

Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN 64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day.

You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson.

In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

GIA THANH

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

NGUYEN KIM

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

THIEN HOA

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate.

No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

TOUS LES JOURS

info@saigoncateringco.com Tel: 0913 981128 (Ms Huong – Vietnamese) / 01214 401853 (Ms Ana – English) With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals.

Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu. Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

VOELKER

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

SESAME BAKERY 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME 100 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more.

Visit website for full menu.

THE CATERERS

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128, info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1. Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

QUAN BUI

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace.

Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109, www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and veg-

etables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen.net. vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1. Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer.

Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer.

Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR 32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware.

Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA 60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers.

Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe), Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

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generation v BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, Q1, www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on– site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC 74E Hai Ba Trung,Q 1 , Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE 6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1, Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU 15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing

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list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE 178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town.

In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 140 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 140 CLASSES & SPORTS 140 CLOTHING 142

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings EDUCATION 142 ENTERTAIMENT 144 KIDS' PARTIES 145 MEDICAL 145

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA 41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA 15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

BABY EQUIPMENT BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE 270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI 1B Ton That Tung, Q1Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY 230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all

ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY 10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

generation v GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

generation v

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_music77@hotmail.com).

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

KINDERMUSIK Tel: 0907 099 480 goetz@LNTgoetz.com The world’s premier music & movement program for children from birth to 7– years–old taught by Ms Lauralynn, B.A. & M.M.Ed.. The courses nurture every facet of a child’s development – social, physical, cognitive, emotional and English language skills – through music & movement.

LIFETIME SPORTS

628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged

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Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

RMIT VIETNAM 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting

activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

BELLI BLOSSOM

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

4F-04 (4th Floor), Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 7574 contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to mums and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and much more. Brands available include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, and Gingersnaps.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

SAIGON PONY CLUB

Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC Tel: 0903 145087 www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million.

There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING 226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY 93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL 227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

EDUCATION

IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Xi Early Childhood Centre, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 6960 Early Childhood & Primary School, Early Childhood - Lotus 1, Primary - Cherry Blossom 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior School (Head Office), EastWest Highway, Q2, Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages.

Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged

from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a student-centered learning environment.

Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with

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generation v GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years.

Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999.

ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

generation v INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL

afterschool club in the afternoon for 3 to 6 year olds and art and swimming classes.

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

NOAH’S CLUB 3 Duong So 4, Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Ward, Q2, Tel/Fax: 3744 4709 noahandmum@yahoo.com.vn Children’s club for toddlers and children from 18 months to 6 years old offering daycare, a toddlers’s club in the morning, an

Tel: 0862819679 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers.

ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7 Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2 Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236, www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

VAS SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards. Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced

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education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3933 3655 www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502, dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN 100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do.

Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well– equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

Saigon Kids Where children grow with love and care.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

3 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

“Materials gather history as children play with them”

18 months – 6 years old.

Part-time and full-time attendance plans.

Enrolment throughout the year.

Saigon Kids Educational Childcare Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan Street, D.3 Tel: (08) 39325579 | www.saigonkidscentre.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3266 / 3910 0168 www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 16 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses of all levels at high quality with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at the school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA 35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

WATER PUPPET THEATRE History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3823 4582 Much more cultured than malls and a sure–fire winner with children, is the enchanting Water Puppet Theatre, devoted to this traditional art which the Vietnamese called mua roi nuoc.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com.

X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian)

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Hanoi

THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Luthier

THE LUTHIER / THE FINAL CUT

Words by Luke Dale Harris. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

S

trange scales emanate from the windows of Do Viet Dung’s house as I wait for the young boy to let me in. He shouts over his shoulder for his father as he struggles with the lock.

As no-one appears, he leads me into the display room where a mustachioed man in a cowboy hat sits draped over an electric guitar; warped notes come from an amplifier on the other side of the room as he bends the strings. He points upwards to the boy who beckons for me to follow him. We head through the kitchen and up the stairs, and as we climb higher we pass more and more piles of wood and shells of unfinished guitars. We reach a small room on the fifth floor where a man works away at a piece of wood with a chisel.

“Ah, welcome to my home,” he says, looking up. “I see you’ve met my son”.

The boy scuttles off back down the stairs.

In the future he will, Dung hopes, take over to become the fifth generation of luthiers in this family. First, though, he must study.

In the face of ever growing competition from big multinationals such as Fender, Yamaha and Gibson, he will need a good understanding of business and economics to compete. Yet such things feel a long way removed from the intimate studio built into Dung’s family home where, drawing on the inherited knowledge and craftsmanship of his ancestors, he makes some of the finest guitars in Vietnam for musicians all across the world.

The family business, Thanh Cam, has always been shaped by forces from overseas.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Dung’s great grandfather was running a small business in Hanoi making traditional Vietnamese stringed instruments like the dan nguyet (two stringed lute) and the dan ho (upright violin). With the country under colonial rule at the time, occasionally a Frenchman would bring in a guitar for repairs, prompting him to learn on his feet so as to open himself up to this new market.

The newly acquired knowledge was handed down to his son, Dung’s grandfather, who started making guitars from scratch, along with other western stringed instruments that were more suited to the Vietnamese musical style, such as the mandolin and banjo.

East Meets West The French, in their attempt to bring their

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own brand of civilisation to the country, chose Vietnamese musical tradition as something that necessarily needed westernisation. Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries they handed out western instruments such as violins, mandolins, saxophones and accordions across the country to almost anyone who asserted their belief in the Christian God. As a result, in the depths of the Vietnamese countryside, there are still many people who posses and can play these instruments, though not in the style they were intended.

As is typical in Vietnam, the foreign influence was taken on but morphed to meet Vietnamese tradition. Often the instruments were re-tuned to suit the Asian pentatonic scale rather than the western chromatic. Dung’s grandfather latched onto this trend and started altering the western instruments to further meet Vietnamese requirements. Most inventively, he created a scalloped neck for the mandolins and guitars that, with the strings lying over dug out fret boards, allowed the player to bend the strings downwards to hit the mid tones so important to Vietnamese music.

The successive wars that followed Vietnam’s independence brought with them a need for a new type of music. Sparked on by the Eastern European songs that started to play on Vietnamese radio after 1945, the guitar was adopted. Simple, versatile and capable of holding a song together on its own while groups of people sang over the top, it was the perfect instrument for the urgent and uplifting songs of the period. The government quickly realised its morale-boosting capacity and in the 1950s started up factories that made up to 4,000 guitars a month, most of which were sent off to the soldiers on the front line.

Dung’s father, out of work in his private luthier business, took up a job at the biggest of these factories in 1960, beginning his specialisation in guitars that would then go on to inform Dung’s business.

Supply and Demand The wood Dung is working when I meet him will eventually be the neck of a guitar that he will sell to a shop in England for somewhere close to VND42 million.

“I have to be careful with this one,” he tells me. “The wood alone is worth over VND25 million. Any mistake would be

very expensive.”

The room he is working in has guitars of varying shapes and sizes hanging from the walls, all in different stages of completion.

Each one will sell for over VND21 million , almost exclusively to the west. As Vietnam has been drawn in by globalisation, Dung’s business has seen many changes and no longer sits just on the receiving end of foreign influence. His small team makes about 400 guitars a month, and while the majority are cheap and quickly produced to sell to amateur players in Vietnam, his best business is in selling high-end guitars abroad.

“Like in almost every industry nowadays, we are in competition with companies who outweigh us completely,” he says. “In China there are huge factories making guitars where the low labour costs and huge quantities in production mean we cannot compete over price. To survive, we have to find our own place in the market.”

In general, high quality guitars are made by individual luthiers in the country where they are to be sold. As Dung prices his labour lower than in the west, he can produce the same quality guitars for a fraction of the price. Dropping his own brand name and imprinting that of his customer onto the guitars, they can be sold in foreign markets without garnering the suspicion that many westerners hold against Asian goods.

During the time I am with him, Dung shows me about ten different types of wood, making me smell and feel each piece and talking enthusiastically about their different qualities.

“It’s all in the wood,” he tells me.

“The luthier’s job is just to do it justice, though that’s not easy. It takes a lifetime of experience to know each type, its character, its failings. My father taught me a lot but I still have things to learn.”

I ask him if he feels that the intimacy of the instrument is lost in rebranding it and posting it off across the world.

“Not at all,” he replies. “When I was younger, before I got married, I used to go to sleep holding the guitar I was working on. It makes me very happy to think that someone thousands of miles away might be doing the same thing with a guitar I have made for them.”

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TIME & SPACE

THE FINAL CUT Rusting scissors and crumbling walls; Douglas Pyper tours the decaying premises of one of Hanoi’s long-standing coiffeurs.

Photos by Dominic Blewett

T

he fire-damaged old building, which has been the family home and business for the last three generations, is an embarrassment to him.

So much so that he won’t give his name or allow photographs to be taken inside the house. So let’s call him The Barber.

The Barber comes from a long line of barbers. The family’s four generation trade is irrevocably marked in stone on the family building; an impressively decrepit

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old three-storey house on the corner of Hang Bong and Quan Su. Hieu Hot Toc va Nha Tam is part of the brickwork, etched in the kind of art-deco font Europeans these days reserve for cinemas and theatres.

The building echoes the grandeur of the past but shows decay throughout: the family’s fortunes wrapped up in their house and business. The original wooden beams that used to hold up the outside awning are now just charred stubs thanks

to an electrical fire in the 1980s. For 30 years, the family hasn’t had enough money to fix it and the upper two storeys of the house have been propped up on the inside by a network of scaffolding. The building’s public shower room is long gone.

For Generations Stepping over the original tiles that The Barber’s grandfather installed three generations ago, customers head straight

to the high-ceilinged room’s only chair: the same Japanese-made chair that The Barber’s grandfather bought from a French colonialist three generations ago. The chair’s original red has been rubbed to a fascinating yellow by three generations of customers who would’ve enjoyed its builtin ashtray. The central cushion is split up the middle by three generations of bums whose owners would have chatted with three generations of The Barber’s family or read whatever newspaper happened to be lying on the thick wooden table facing them.

The Barber has always taken part in the family business. His father taught him “everything” at the age of 16, allowing him to help out in the shop while studying.

Later, when The Barber started teaching music theory at a local high school, he still worked part-time in his father’s shop to supplement the low wages. When he retired in 1991, he didn’t receive a pension, just a golden handshake, “all together, enough to buy a TV.” So he came back

to the family trade that was starting to serve the family increasingly badly. Today, business isn’t good, only old regulars still drop by for some of the same old.

Etched in Stone The Barber is the last in a long line of barbers. His two children are both studying in Singapore on development scholarships. It’s a safe bet that they aren’t studying hairdressing. So, too, The Barber’s business is one of the last remaining shops to have its name carved into the brickwork of a building. Plenty of examples are still dotted around Hanoi — the radio shop at the crossroads between Hang Bong and Dien Bien Phu, which has sold ao dai for the last two generations, still attracts plenty of attention. But their time has passed.

People aren’t born into trades anymore, and few trades can remain from generation to generation. And so it is that 100 years of hairdressing knowhow and a much older architectural practice will stop here.

“Customers head straight to the highceilinged room’s only chair: the same Japanese-made chair that The Barber’s grandfather bought from a French colonialist three generations ago. The chair’s original red has been rubbed to a fascinating yellow”

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A

WOMEN

NGUYEN TRINH THI F

Kaitlin Rees chats to the founder of DocLab, documentary filmmaker and video artist. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

or Nguyen Trinh Thi, much of her life as a documentary filmmaker and video artist has been a negotiation of form. After years of studying journalism, international development and public policy in the United States, Thi discovered film and felt it click. Here was a medium, documentary, that told a story as well as fit into her interests in visual art.

And yet, never quite at home in the film industry while abroad, it was only when Thi returned to Hanoi in 2007 that things started to take shape. Falling in step with the Nha San group of experimental artists, over time her films became more and more experimental, though her interests in the narrative aspects of documentary filmmaking held.

Thi knew she wanted to make documentaries but “when I came back here, I found that there was not really any community for this kind of thing.” And where community is lacking, it must be built.

Building the Community So in 2009, after two years of small group meetings and screenings, Thi opened DocLab. The foundations for DocLab rest upon Thi’s ideas about her own work, which strives to bridge the abstract elements of experimental, performance, installation and video art with the narrative structures of documentary filmmaking.

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DocLab is very much a lab. It’s a space that offers education and training through workshops and courses with room for experimentation. With courses limited to 10 students, quality and personal attention for each student is high. Because of this, the selection process is fairly rigorous: a full week of screenings of a range of films, essays, conversations, and some tests of visual ability. Once in, the work is equally demanding and rewarding.

Thi’s sincere focus on each individual student is really an investment in the future of the independent film community in Hanoi as a whole. She hopes her students “discover something about themselves and their abilities. This way, there is a better chance that they will stay committed.”

After two-and-a-half years of operation, the lab that encourages independent thinking and personal exploration is starting to run itself. Thi is organizing new programmes, bringing in outsiders and continuing to build bridges to the art world. She is also getting back to her own work, which is increasingly focused on the artists of previous generations.

“I have realised that we really have a huge disconnection with the past, with history… The facts [of the past] give me a lot of insight about society, its connection to and explanation of the situation today.”

It sounds as if more bridge building is in the works.

AMAZIN LETHI FOUNDATION

Moving marginalised voices to the centre of conversation. Words by Kaitlin Rees.

TIG OL’ BITTIES, TITS AND JUGS: A REMINDER TO MIND THEM Being the most common cancer among women, education around mammograms and self-exams has steadily improved in recent years.

Let the fact sheet below be a simple reminder to mind your mammaries.

What: A mammogram is an x-ray of the breast consisting of two pictures

per breast, one top view and one profile.

A self-exam consists of simple steps that can be done at home: a visual and physical inspection of the breasts for any abnormalities, changes, unexpected fluids or lumps.

Who: Women 40 years old and above. If breast cancer

runs in the family, starting earlier is recommended.

Self-exams should start around the age of 30.

How often: Mammograms should be done every two years. Yearly exams are recommended for women taking hormone replacement therapy or who have a family history. Self-exams should happen once every month with

mazin Lethi splits her time between the United States and Europe and has a pretty good sense of who is saying what in these parts of the world. The voices she’s listening to are those of HIV activists who raise awareness and get funding for research and treatment. However, the voices she doesn’t hear so well are those from her home country, this one.

“In the Asian community, part of our culture is that we don’t tend to talk about these kinds of social and health issues,” she explains.

Having started in January of this year, the Amazin Lethi Foundation is the result of one woman’s desire to get the conversation going around HIV in the public sphere.

“People always ask ‘why HIV?’” she says. “But you don’t have to be HIV positive to be an HIV activist. As a woman, as an Asian woman, as a body builder [yes, she’s a body builder], I know what it feels like to be marginalized, I know what it feels like be discriminated against.”

It’s this social stigma attached to HIV that the Amazin Lethi Foundation targets, through programmes that reintegrate displaced individuals back into their communities, provide sustainable income generation projects, and offer activities for children with HIV to just be children.

“Initially, for me, it was all about awareness and starting this conversation in the public domain to talk openly about HIV and break the social stigmatization,” she says. “And the more I delved into it, I realised that HIV is the focal point, but there are so many issues surrounding it.”

In addressing HIV, the foundation is addressing other communities who are often silenced as well. Lethi has her eyes on issues such as gender inequality, human trafficking and discrimination against lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender communities.

Her goal for the foundation is for it to expand across Asia in the next ten or 20 years, and draw more mass media attention to this part of the world.

If you’d like to contribute to the conversation and support Amazin in her work in Vietnam, visit www.amazinlethifoundation.org.

attention to any changes.

Where: VinMec International Hospital 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3974 3556 www.vinmec.com The French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: 3577 1100 www.hfh.com.vn AmTic Clinic 11 & 21 Phan Chu Trinh,

Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 2456 www.amtic.vn How Much: Mammograms alone cost around VND2.5 million.

Mammograms with ultrasounds cost around VND4.3 million.

Why: Early detection seriously reduces the rate of mortality. And we should really be worshipping our boobs anyway.

June 2012 Word | 151

Tiêng viêt THỰC KHÁCH BÍ ẨN / THÀNH PHỐ NGHỆ THUẬT

Bahdja

THUC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Thực khách bí ẩn của chúng tôi đã ghé qua nhà hàng thủy hải sản ở Quận 7 và rồi quay về lại trung tâm để thưởng thức ẩm thực Bắc Phi. Hình ảnh bởi Quinn Ryan Mattingly

87-89-91 HỒ TÙNG MẬU, Q1. ĐT: 6679 9330

Nhà Hàng Cá Biên Sài Gòn Mói 272 NGUYỄN VĂN LINH, Q7. ĐT: 3775 5188 COÁ VÖ SÖË NHAÂ HAÂNG HAÃI SAÃN ÚÃ Viït Nam, ngûúâi ta gheá haâng ngaây tûâ Bùæc xuöëng Nam. Tuy nhiïn, vaâo möåt buöíi töëi maát trúâi úã möåt núi xa xöi nhêët, vùæng veã nhêët cuãa Quêån 7, nhûäng nhên viïn cuãa quaán thêåt nhaân röîi do söë lûúång khaách chó möåt hay hai baân. Khöng coá ai úã àêy caã, taåo nïn möåt khöng khñ chaán ngùæt cho baâi nhêån xeát.

May mùæn thay, nhaâ haâng àuã thuá võ vaâ hêëp dêîn àïí àaánh laåc hûúáng sûå chuá yá, möåt söë bïí caá àêìy bong bong, chûáa nhûäng sinh vêåt kyâ laå àûúåc àaánh bùæt tûâ biïín, nhûúâng sûå chuá yá cho khu saãnh ngoaâi vûúân àûúåc bao boåc trong aánh saáng thêìn tiïn nùçm dûúái nhûäng taán cêy.

Thûåc àún göìm nhûäng moán haãi saãn àùåc trûng vúái giaá cao hún möåt phêìn ba so vúái nhûäng nhaâ haâng tûúng tûå trong thaânh phöë, coá nhûäng lûåa choån giaânh cho nhûäng ngûúâi am hiïíu nhû caá chim trùæng, caá têìm, thoâi loâi gai vaâ caá da trún vúái giaá baán theo muâa, vaâ coân nhiïìu nhûäng "àùåc saãn" khaác thûúâng (töm huâm vaâ soâ àuát loâ, coá ai muöën khöng?).

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Chuáng töi bùæt àêìu vúái moán haâo nûúáng phö mai. Böën con haâo khöng thuöåc daång lúán nhêët maâ chuáng töi àaä thêëy úã Saâi Goân vaâ lúáp phö mai noáng chaãy saáng maâu, gêìn nhû caái maâu vaâng saáng cuãa phö mai Kraft. Moán àûúåc trònh baây hêëp têëp, khöng keâm theo rau cuã quaã gò, nhûng võ mùçn mùån tuyïåt vúâi vaâ thúm nöìng, tröi nheå xuöëng cuâng vúái möåt chai Saâi Goân àoã. Ðôa mûåc nûúáng muöëi úát theo sau vaâ noá thêåt xuêët sùæc. Nhûäng khuác mûåc daây vaâ trùæng deão trong kïët cêëu, võ cay vûâa phaãi àuã àïí kñch thñch lûúäi vaâ caác võ giaác khaác.

Cheán nûúác chêëm muöëi úát xanh ài keâm laâm tùng thïm võ cay nöìng, nhûng keâm theo möåt võ ngoåt. Noá ngon thêåt vaâ baån nïn thûã. Nhûng nhúá yïu cêìu mang moán nûúác chêëm ra vò noá khöng àûúåc phuåc vuå ài keâm.

Cö phuåc vuå dûúâng nhû quïn mêët moán töm suá rang me cuãa chuáng töi, àiïìu naây khaá thêët voång khi phuåc vuå úã àêy cho àïën luác àoá vêîn àûúåc àaánh giaá laâ khaá töët. Khi moán töm àûúåc mang ra, chuáng quaá noáng nïn khöng thïí löåt voã bùçng tay. Taám con

töm to vaâ mêåp, àûúåc bao phuã trong nûúác söët me chua ngoåt vúái vaâi laát haânh têy cuâng àêåu phöång giaä nhoã. Húi dú, nhûng liïëm tay thöi cuäng cûåc kyâ tuyïåt.

Laâ möåt nhaâ haâng haãi saãn, Saâi Goân Múái laâ möåt lûåa choån vûäng chùæc nïëu khöng muöën noái laâ möåt núi nöíi bêåt.

Nhûäng moán cú baãn àûúåc laâm möåt caách thuêìn thuåc, nhûng võ trñ kyâ laå cuãa nhaâ haâng coá thïí laâm nhûäng ngûúâi khöng söëng úã Quêån 7 phaãi suy nghô laåi. Tuy nhiïn, nhûäng moán haãi saãn ngon laå vêîn thu huát nhiïìu thûåc khaách thñch khaám phaá, duâ coá xa hay khöng. Chó àûâng àïën vaâo thûá Hai.

GIÁ HÀO NƯỚNG PHÔ MAI 140,000 ĐỒNG MỰC NƯỚNG MUỐI ỚT 95,000 ĐỒNG TÔM SÚ RANG ME 95,000 ĐỒNG

NHÂN XÉT

8.5 9 9.5 THỨC ĂN

PHỤC VỤ

NỘI THẤT

NÙÇM ÊÍN DÛÚÁI KHAÁCH SAÅN ÊU LAÅC Saâi Goân laâ Bahdja, nhaâ haâng Algeria àêìu tiïn cuãa thaânh phöë. Tiïëng AÃ Rêåp coá nghôa laâ "haånh phuác", Bahdja khöng chó laâm ra nhûäng moán ùn àñch thûåc, laâm theo phong caách êím thûåc Ðõa Trung Haãi vaâ cuãa ngûúâi Berber Bùæc Phi nhûng phuåc vuå theo kiïíu truyïìn thöëng Algeria, maâ coân laâ möåt traãi nghiïåm ùn töëi theo phong caách AÃ Rêåp dïî chõu.

Coá tñnh thêím myä, moåi thûá àïìu àuáng, tûâ àöì nöåi thêët vaâ àöì trang trñ phong caách AÃ Rêåp hiïån àaåi àïën giai àiïåu êm nhaåc truyïìn thöëng. Cûúâi thêåt tûúi, thaái àöå nheå nhaâng, sûå mïën khaách nöìng hêåu cuãa ngûúâi chuã Algeria laâ àùåc trûng cuãa nhûäng quaán ùn gia àònh.

Ngûúâi chuã giaãi thñch rùçng, ngoaâi ngûúâi àêìu bïëp (cuäng laâ ngûúâi Algeria), thò coân laåi möîi anh töëi nay. Nhên viïn cuãa anh bõ bïånh, vaâ anh xin löîi nïëu nhû phuåc vuå khöng töët. Ngûúâi chuã naây thêåt hay, nhûng vúái chó möåt vaâi ngûúâi ùn töëi vaâ möåt nhoám nhoã àang nhêm nhi phña bïn ngoaâi, chùæc chùæn khöng thïí laâ möåt àïm töët hún cho viïåc thiïëu nhên lûåc.

Sau khi nghe ngûúâi chuã noái gêìn nhû têët caã moåi moán trong thûåc àún theo caách rêët ngon miïång, chuáng töi goåi moán couscous hoaâng gia vaâ mtewem tajine cuâng möåt trai rûúåu vang àoã Morocco.

Möåt gioã baánh mò luáa mò semolina tûå laâm nhanh choáng àûúåc mang ra trïn baân cuâng vúái dûa chua vaâ höîn húåp nûúác chêëm úát tûå

laâm theo kiïíu harissa vaâ möåt phêìn baba ghanoush. Lêëm têëm nhûäng haåt meâ, baánh mò nheå nhaâng vaâ dai dai vúái kïët cêëu àaân höìi vaâ xöëp, möåt loaåi baánh mò coá thïí dïî daâng duâng caã ngaây. Höîn húåp nûúác chêëm gêy nghiïån khöng keám. Ðöå cay nöìng cuãa úát böåt àûúåc kiïím soaát, trong khi caâ tñm nûúáng nhûâ böëc khoái cên bùçng caác thaânh phêìn khaác (toãi, tahini, dêìu ö-liu vaâ nûúác chanh) möåt caách tuyïåt vúâi.

Möåt chuát sau, moán chñnh àïën, cho pheáp chuáng töi thûúãng thûác chai Domaine de Sahari. Sûã duång nho tûâ vuâng cao nguyïn Guerrouane nùçm dûúái daäy nuái Atlas úã vuâng Fez vaâ Meknes cuãa Morocco, noá àêåm àaâ nhûng nheå nhaâng vaâ ngon tuyïåt.

Moán couscous hoaâng gia vaâ mtewem tajine àïën cuâng luác trong nhûäng nöìi men sûá maâu nêu. Moán àêìu göìm tö couscous , tö rau hêìm coá àêåu chickpea vaâ moán sau laâ möåt àôa sûúân cûâu nûúáng, xuác xñch merguez vaâ gaâ nûúáng.

Moán couscous mïìm êím, nheå nhaâng vaâ mõn, trong khi höîn húåp àêåu chickpea, khoai têy, haânh vaâ caâ-röët, bñ zucchini vaâ cuã caãi daikon hêìm thò laânh maånh vaâ töët cho sûác khoãe. Thõt mïìm vaâ êím, xuác xñch merguez xuêët sùæc gêy êën tûúång maånh giaâu hûúng võ do sûå kïët húåp cuãa toãi, thò laâ, thò laâ AÃ Rêåp, sumac, úát paprika vaâ nhiïìu úát harissa.

Duâ àaä thêëy no khoaãng hai phêìn ba buång, vaâ moán mtewem tajine quaá nhiïìu, nhûng chuáng töi vêîn cheán thïm àûúåc bêët

kïí nhû thïë naâo. Moán göìm thõt cûâu hêìm, thõt boâ bùm, khoai têy vaâ àêåu chickpea trong nûúác söët toãi, noá khaá mùån, nhûng coá gò àoá trong moán naây laâm chuáng töi duâng baánh mò queát saåch nûúác söët.

Khöng coá moán traáng miïång, nhûng töët thöi, buång chuáng töi àaä cùng cûáng. Vaâ röìi chuáng töi nhêån ra nhaâ haâng nhû Bahja seä töët nhêët khi ài theo nhoám, luác àoá baån coá thïí têån duång lúåi thïë cuãa GIÁ thûåc àún vaâ goåi haâng COUSCOUS loaåt caác moán ùn. Töëi HOÀNG GIA nay, chuáng töi hêìu nhû 390,000 ĐỒNG chûa khaám phaá hïët.

MTEWEM TAJINE Möåt bûäa ùn theo phong 280,000 ĐỒNG caách AÃ Rêåp Bùæc Phi khöng chó laâ möåt bûäa DOMAINE DE SAHARI ùn, noá coá veã laâ möåt sûå 800,000 ĐỒNG kiïån xaä höåi hún. Vaâ traãi nghiïåm úã Bandja chûáng thûåc àiïìu àoá.

NHÂN XÉT MỖI THANG ĐIỂM CHO THỨC ĂN, TRANG TRÍ VÀ PHỤC VU DỰA THEO THANG ĐIỂM TỪ 0 ĐẾN 15 13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá BÀI VIẾT NÀY CÓ MỤC ĐÍCH ĐÓNG GÓP XÂY DỰNG TÍCH CỰC

10 11 10.5 THỨC ĂN

PHỤC VỤ

NỘI THẤT

Thành Phố Nghệ Thuật Đến Kuala Lumpur không nhất thiết phải ghé Phố Người Hoa, tháp đôi Petronas hay khu Tam Giác Vàng. Đây là một thành phố có hoạt động nghệ thuật phát triển mạnh.

Rachel Jenagaratnam đã có cuộc nói chuyện với một bậc tiền bối trong lĩnh vực và phát hiện ra rằng còn có những điều thú vị đang chờ đợi phía trước.

SUY NGHÔ ÀÊÌU TIÏN VÏÌ KUALA LUMPUR – àöëi vúái ngûúâi dên àõa phûúng laâ KL – thûúâng laâ nhûäng toâa nhaâ cao kyã luåc vaâ êím thûåc àûúâng phöë. Nhûng nhûäng phaát triïín gêìn àêy cuãa thaânh phöë àûúåc chuá yá nhiïìu laåi laâ vïì mùåt vùn hoáa. Moåi thûá thêåt khaác biïåt so vúái thúâi àiïím caách àêy mûúâi nùm trûúác, nhûäng sinh viïn múái töët nghiïåp ngaânh myä thuêåt baám truå maãnh àêët maâu múä naây àïí trau döìi tay nghïì, nhûäng phoâng tranh bêån röån miïåt maâi vúái cöng viïåc kinh doanh cuãa mònh, vaâ nhûäng nhaâ sûu têìm vaâ cöng chuáng noái chung laåi àûúåc thûúãng thûác nhiïìu nghïå thuêåt hún bao giúâ hïët.

CÁC HOẠT ĐỘNG Để tìm kiếm thông tin các hoạt đông nghệ thuật diễn ra ở KL, xin ghé các trand web sau: Time Out Kuala Lumpur Arts Section www.timeoutkl.com/art The Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre www.klpac.org Vison KL www.visionkl.com Expat KL (vào mục events) www.expatkl.com Art Malaysia www.artmalaysia.com.my

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Vêåy nïìn nghïå thuêåt cuãa KL nhû thïë naâo? "Malaysia laâ möåt xaä höåi àa sùæc töåc, do vêåy laâm nïn nhûäng thaânh phêìn töët cho tñnh thêím myä vaâ lõch sûã," Nazli Aziz lêåp luêån, Galeri Chandan (www.galerichandan. com). Phoâng tranh cuãa anh laâ möåt trong söë ñt núi nöíi bêåt trong möåt vaâi nùm qua, vaâ anh hûúãng lúåi tûâ nhûäng luöìng thay àöíi naây.

Anh tiïëp tuåc: "Töi khöng cho àoá laâ thûúng maåi hoáa, töi seä cho rùçng àoá laâ laânh maånh. Coá möåt sûå àaánh giaá röång hún vïì nghïå thuêåt, thõ trûúâng àang phaát triïín töët, vaâ nghïå thuêåt giúâ àêy bùæt àêìu àûúåc kinh doanh vaâ khùèng àõnh giaá trõ trong thõ trûúâng thûá cêëp. Ðêy laâ möåt nïìn taãng töët cho sûå phaát triïín."

Nhûäng phoâng tranh khaác cuäng chuá yá àïën nhûäng thay àöíi tñch cûåc trong lônh vûåc. "Ðaä coá möåt thúâi gian phêën chêën cho nïìn nghïå thuêåt khi chuáng töi thêëy nhiïìu sûå phaát triïín tñch cûåc trong hún möåt thêåp kyã qua," – chuã phoâng tranh Lim Wei-Ling cho hay. "[Chuáng töi àaä chûáng kiïën] sûå xuêët hiïån cuãa nhiïìu nhaâ sûu têåp sêu sùæc vaâ möåt söë lûúång nghïå syä ngaây caâng tùng – nhûäng ngûúâi maâ tûâ chöëi buön baán nghïå thuêåt cuãa hoå". Cö àang àiïìu haânh phoâng tranh Gallery and Wei-Ling Contemporary (www.weiling-gallery.com), cö tûå haâo coá gêìn mûúâi nùm trong lônh vûåc kinh doanh, àùåc biïåt quan têm höî trúå vaâ phaát huy nghïå thuêåt Malaysia àûúng àaåi.

Kinh Doanh Nghiêm Túc Khi moåi thûá trúã nïn nghiïm tuác hún, coá nghôa laâ nghïå syä àûúng àaåi úã KL àaä bùæt àêìu nêng cao tay nghïì - caã vïì mùåt kinh doanh – àïí àaåt trònh àöå tinh tïë hún, cö cho hay.

"Hêìu hïët caác nghïå syä töi laâm viïåc cuâng chó cho ra khoaãng 12-15 taác phêím möîi khoáa hoåc hai nùm. Thöng thûúâng khöng coá àuã taác phêím cho caác nhaâ sûu têìm vò cêìu nhiïìu hún cung. Kïët quaã laâ giaá caã tùng cao àaáng kïí trong voâng saáu nùm qua". Tuy nhiïn, giaá úã KL vêîn khaá húåp lyá so vúái nghïå thuêåt àûúng àaåi tûâ Trung Quöëc hay ÊËn Ðöå. Nhûäng taác phêím cuãa caác nghïå syä àang nöíi coá giaá tûâ 1,800 – 12,000 ringgit (580 - 3,900USD), nhûng vúái nhûäng nghïå syä lêu nùm seä coá giaá 20,000 – 150,000 ringgit (6,500 – 49,000USD) – thónh thoaãng coân hún.

Vaâ baån seä tha höìi lûåa choån nhûäng àõa àiïím buön baán tranh, vò Bayu Utomo Radjikin cho hay caác phoâng tranh moåc lïn nhû nêëm úã thaânh phöë.

"Töi nghô hoaåt àöång nghïå thuêåt cuãa KL khaá söi àöång trong voâng nùm àïën mûúâi nùm qua," – anh nhêån xeát. Anh coá àêìy àuã kinh nghiïåm àïí àûa ra bònh luêån trïn. Laâ möåt nghïå syä tûå xêy dûång tïn tuöíi, Bayu àiïìu haânh khöng gian nghïå thuêåt HOM (houseofmatahati.blogspot.com) úã Ampang, möåt khu ngoaåi ö cuãa KL. Anh noái thïm: "Noá thuá võ hún ngaây nay vaâ ngûúâi xem

cuäng toâ moâ hún", möåt baâi toaán àún giaãn – nhiïìu phoâng tranh hún nghôa laâ nhiïìu nghïå syä vaâ triïín laäm hún. "Baån cêìn caãm giaác thuá võ àoá," – anh kïët luêån. ÚÃ HOM, cöng viïåc chñnh cuãa nhûäng chûúng trònh laâ nuöi dûúäng nhûäng nghïå syä treã, vaâ phoâng tranh cuäng àuã lúán àïí trao àöíi nghïå thuêåt – hoå coá ba chûúng trònh lûu truá saáng taác, bao göìm Lûu Truá Múã Röång – núi cho pheáp nghïå syä dûång traåi saáng taác nghïå thuêåt trong möåt thúâi gian cuå thïí. Cho àïën nay, hoå àaä töí chûác cho caác nghïå syä tûâ Brazil vaâ Latvia, trong khi àoá caác nghïå syä tûâ Indonesia vaâ Philippine coá khu vûåc lûu truá cuãa mònh àûúåc goåi laâ SAGE. Nhûng khöng chó coá nhûäng phoâng tranh vaâ nhûäng nghïå syä öín àõnh múái laâm giaâu nïìn nghïå thuêåt àõa phûúng. Nhûäng phaát triïín gêìn àêy cuäng xuêët hiïån taåi caác sûå kiïån múái, thïm maâu sùæc vaâ sûác maånh cho lônh vûåc, àiïìu naây rêët cêìn thiïët àïí nùæm bùæt sûå chuá yá cuãa quöëc tïë.

Höåi chúå nghïå thuêåt Art Expo Malaysia diïîn ra hùçng nùm vaâo khoaãng cuöëi thaáng Mûúâi vaâ thu huát nhiïìu phoâng tranh quöëc tïë, hoå haáo hûác muöën coá möåt phêìn baánh cuãa thõ trûúâng nghïå thuêåt àang phaát triïín úã àêy. Vaâ àïí khúãi àöång, chñnh phuã Malaysia àaä tiïëp thõ giúái thiïåu nghïå thuêåt àûúng àaåi nhû laâ saãn phêím du lõch thöng qua Lïî Höåi Du Lõch Nghïå Thuêåt Ðûúng Ðaåi Maylaysia haâng nùm – nhûäng quaãng

caáo cho lïî höåi àaä xuêët hiïån têån Chêu Êu.

Tuy nhiïn, ngûúâi hêm möå àõa phûúng vêîn quan têm àïën nhûäng phaát triïín úã xûá nhaâ, àùåc biïåt laâ triïín laäm nöíi tiïëng úã Henry Butcher Art Auction Malaysia (Triïín laäm lêìn ba cuãa hoå vûâa àûúåc töí chûác vaâo thaáng Nùm, vaâ sûå kiïån nùm nay àaä thu huát nhiïìu ngûúâi, nhiïìu àïën nöîi khöng coá chöî ngöìi, hoå haáo hûác àêëu giaá vúái töíng giaá trõ lïn àïën 4 triïåu ringgit (1.3 triïåu USD) vaâ bûác tranh trûâu tûúång tïn Red, Orange and Core (1984) cuãa nghïå syä Malaysia, Ibrahim Hussein, àûúåc baán vúái giaá 797,000 ringgit (258,000USD). Roä raâng, rêët nhiïìu àö-la – hay ringgit àûúåc àöí vaâo àêy. Sûå thêåt, dûå àoaán nhûäng ngûúâi töí chûác àêëu giaá seä quyïët àõnh töí chûác sûå kiïån naây hai lêìn möîi nùm.

Nhận Thức Thay Đổi Sûå phaát triïín buâng nöí roä rïåt cuãa nïìn nghïå thuêåt KL chùæc chùæn laâm thay àöíi moåi thûá.

Giúâ àêy cûá caách ngaây trong tuêìn laåi coá sûå kiïån nghïå thuêåt hay lïî khai trûúng, vaâ nhûäng ngûúâi trong lônh vûåc thêëy àöi khi thêåt khoá àïí tham dûå hïët, khöng coá gò laå laâ ngûúâi ta ài hai hay ba sûå kiïån khai trûúng trong möåt àïm, chó àïí cêåp nhêåt thöng tin. Nhûng vêîn coân àoá möåt vêën àïì - baãn thên Joe Public khöng caãm thêëy chñnh xaác laâ khoá khùn khi tham gia caác sûå kiïån. Khaái niïåm àaánh giaá nghïå thuêåt khöng röång khùæp caã nûúác (KL vêîn laâ trung têm, vúái nhûäng baãn sao phña bùæc

NƠI TRƯNG BÀY NGHỆ THUẬT Những nơi trưng bày nghệ thuật khác có thể tìm thấy ở: Shalini Ganendra Fine Art Gallery Residence, 8 Lorong 16/7B, Petaling Jaya TAKSU 17 Jalan Pawang The Print Room 49 Lorong 16/9E, Petaling Jaya Valentine Willie Fine Art 1st Floor, 17 Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru

June 2012 Word | 155

The Final Say MAN VS BUS / PHOTO OF THE MONTH / ON THE STOOL PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

cuãa noá, Penang àang nhanh choáng bùæt kõp), vaâ möåt caá nhên trung bònh seä vêîn vêåt löån àùåt tïn cho nùm nghïå syä Malaysia khöng àûúåc chuêín bõ trûúác. Toám laåi, theo möåt cêu noái cöí: nghïå thuêåt úã möåt phêìn trùm coân laåi.

Coá hai ngûúâi ài ngûúåc laåi vêën àïì naây laâ Nani Kahar vaâ Peter Kiernan. Laâ caác kiïën truác sû àûáng sau labDNA, hoå laâ nhûäng

THÔNG TIN Phương tiện Hãng AirAsia cung cấp những chuyến bay đi về giá rẻ từ Hà Nội lẫn Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh đến Kuala Lumpur. Xin ghé www.airasia.com. Giá vé khứ hồi có thể xuống còn khoảng 2.5 triệu đồng.

Cho sự lựa chọn khác, bay khứ hồi với hãng Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) với giá dưới 5 triệu đồng. Kuapa Lampur đóng vai trò như là trung tâm du lịch đi và đến các nơi trong khu vực.

Phòng trọ Ghé các trang webs sau: www.kl-hotels.com www.agoda.com www.malaysiabudgethotel.com www.kualalumpurbudgethotel.com

156 | Word June 2012

böå oác saáng taåo vaâ coá yá tûúãng töët àûáng sau nhûäng cöng trònh nghïå thuêåt cöng cöång cuãa thaânh phöë. Dûå aán àêìu tiïn cuãa hoå nùm 2007, Annexe Gallery, àaä taåo nïn möåt sûå tiïën böå tuyïåt vúâi laâm thay àöíi caãnh quang thaânh phöë, cuäng nhû laâm treã hoáa möåt phêìn KL – núi maâ coá tiïëng vïì viïåc khöng àûúåc hoaân haão cho lùæm.

"Chuáng töi caãm thêëy thuá võ hún vïì viïåc taåo ra nhûäng khoaãng khöng cho xaä höåi" – Peter cho hay, anh hiïån taåi àang bêån röån têåp trung vúái Nani cho nhûäng chuã àïì saáng taåo úã Publika (www.publika.com.my) - cú súã baán leã vaâ phaát triïín thûúng maåi múái nhêët cuãa KL. Publika àöåc àaáo, laâ núi maâ nghïå thuêåt vaâ vùn hoáa laâm troång têm, vaâ noá taåo ra sûå khaác biïåt roä cho caãnh quang vùn hoáa cuãa thaânh phöë trong möåt thúâi gian ngùæn; hoå àiïìu haânh lõch trònh laâm viïåc bêån röån, cên bùçng caác sûå kiïån tûâ têët caã vùn hoáa (búãi vò khöng chó coá nghïå thuêåt thõ giaác), vaâ hoå cuäng àaãm baão söë ngûúâi thuï laâm nghïå thuêåt cao cho sûå phaát triïín, nhûäng triïín laäm nhû Segaris, RA Fine Arts, vaâ thêåm chñ Nazli àaä àûúåc noái úã trïn àïìu àûúåc thiïët lêåp úã àêy, hai triïín laäm sau àaä boã möåt söë núi khaác trûúác àoá úã KL.

Publika biïët khaán giaã chñnh cuãa hoå laâ cöng chuáng noái chung, do vêåy nghïå thuêåt cöng cöång luön àûúåc ûu tiïn úã àêy. Coá nhûäng bñch hoåa trong khu baán leã hiïån haânh, nghïå thuêåt sùæp àùåt úã trung têm thûúång maåi, vaâ thêåm chñ nhûäng taác phêím àûúåc laâm tûâ nhûäng öëng cuöån dêy caáp tûâ caác cöng trònh xêy dûång gêìn khu vûåc phaát triïín. Nhûäng triïín laäm cuãa hoå laâ chên chñnh, nhû kiïíu laâ "khöng thïí àaánh baåi thò tham gia cuâng vúái chuáng", vaâ hoå àaä àem nghïå thuêåt àïën gêìn cöng chuáng nhû thïë naâo? Rêët gêìn, búãi vò nhûäng toilet cöng cöång úã àêy cuäng àûúåc trûng baây nhûäng taác phêím àùåc biïåt.

Peter vaâ Nani kïí vïì nhûäng nöî lûåc cuãa hoå trong viïåc trúã thaânh cöåi rïî vûäng chùæc trong quy tùæc quên bònh, vaâ hoå cho rùçng àiïìu àoá laâ "àiïìu chónh vïì mùæt" vaâ laâm cöng chuáng hoâa húåp vúái nhiïìu khaã nùng nghïå thuêåt. Coá thïí noái, caách cuãa hoå chêåm nhûng laâ möåt cuöåc caách maång àuáng àùæn, nhûng hoå laåc quan cho rùçng KL àang traãi qua sûå thay àöíi tuyïåt vúâi vïì nghïå thuêåt.

Vaâ vúái nhûäng ngûúâi taâi trong nïìn cöng nghiïåp naây, coá thïí noái noái rùçng nïìn nghïå thuêåt cuãa KL seä coá möåt tûúng lai thêåm chñ coân thuá võ hún.

THE FINAL SAY

Man vs Bus Though it can be frustrating, Michael Arnold finds out that taking the bus in Saigon can enrich both your travelling experience and your wallet at the same time. Photos by Nick Ross

T

here’s a common theory out there that, while the traffic rules in Ho Chi Minh City are somewhat open to interpretation, there is one unwritten law that all drivers respect — buses get the right of way. Taxis, bikes, everyone gets out of the path of an oncoming bus — very civilised.

I see it a different way. If you were going head to head with something the size of a few elephants being driven more like a motorbike than a heavy vehicle, you’d get out of the way, too. That says to me that it’s probably better to be one of the passengers than to have it thundering towards you.

I admit it takes a certain amount of courage for a foreigner to step on one of Ho Chi Minh City’s xe buyt. How will you communicate with the driver? Will you get ripped off on the fare or be crushed among the crowds of unwashed passengers in the afternoon heat?

Could you successfully get the bus driver to let you off at your intended stop — provided you managed to recognise it in the first place?

I sometimes chuckle at such fears as I sit comfortably reading in my favourite seat on Route Number 1 along Tran Hung Dao, where the only discomfort is that the air conditioning is occasionally a few degrees too marvellous. The little taxis pass by my window, carrying their foreigners along less-than-direct routes to hopefully-the-right destinations, swerving dizzyingly into tiny gaps in the traffic just because they’re there.

Their passengers will be paying a hundred thousand dong or more by the end of their journey — I’ll be parting with a grand total of four. I’m pretty clear on where the bus is heading, too, having pored over the map at the station many times now.

Master of the Bus One of the major benefits of mastering the

158 | Word June 2012

bus system is that you start to build up a remarkably accurate sense of direction here, of a sort that you just can’t get from taxis. Ho Chi Minh City bewildered me for months when I first arrived, with its chaos of diverging boulevards and labyrinths of little alleyways that all tended to look the same. While I was certainly building up a familiarity with my As and Bs, I couldn’t hope to understand how to get from one to the other. Nowadays I know where more things actually are, because I’ve started to recognise the street names on the sides of the buses and have put some time into finding out if they’re on my route.

Buses give you a kind of freedom and a sense of engagement with the city. I’d always felt at the mercy of taxis, nervously watching the meter and checking the driver’s eyes in the rear-view mirror to see if I was being cheated or not. Taxis are a privilege that isolate foreign passengers from the world outside, whereas bus travel is a friendlier sport, putting you on a par with the everyday Joe Public, while at the same time being so cheap by foreign standards that they’re virtually free.

Route 1, it has to be said, is still the exception rather than the rule. Connecting the station opposite Ben Thanh Market with Cholon, it’s served by the city’s newest bus fleet, sleek blue Korean machines that look almost like spacecraft. It’ll be a while before the dusty old green buses serving most other routes are retired — and they’re just not as good. They’re still cooler to ride than you’d expect from looking at them (provided the ventilation system has been turned on, the doors and windows stay shut, and the number of fellow travellers emitting fullstrength body heat isn’t large), but they’re still fairly dusty and worn inside, and your

ROUTES & DETAILS Ho Chi Minh City is shamefully devoid of late-night buses, and many routes finish up before 7pm. You should be able to pick out the service times and their frequencies on the bus-stop signs, even if you don’t read Vietnamese.

The routes that are going to get you where you need to go are different for everyone, but there are some key routes that are particularly useful: Route 1: From Me Linh Square up Nguyen Hue and Le Loi, and on to Ben Thanh Market, making it a great inner-city route; from there on past the Cao Dai temple on Tran Hung Dao to Cholon.

Route 4: Out from Ben Thanh station all the way up Pasteur, past the Mövenpick on Nguyen Van Troi and along Cong Hoa all the way out to An Suong.

Route 6: Travels out of Cholon past the Windsor Plaza and NowZone, along Nguyen Thi Minh Khai through to Districts 2 and 9, and on to Thu Duc. Several double-deckers in the fleet provide good, cheap top-deck views along the way. level of comfort depends on luck — some particular buses are better than others.

The Insider’s Guide There are a few insider tricks, but they’re not hard to figure out. It’s VND4,000 for a ticket, unless you’re going farther than 18km (which is rare), upon which you’ll be paying five. Keep the tickets on hand for spotchecks. Wave your hand to signal a driver to stop, and don’t be shy about insisting that he notices you — he may be enjoying his cigarette or his in-vehicle sound system playing full-volume Vietnamese traditional anthems too much to spot you on the side of the road. He may not actually stop when you want to get off either, preferring instead to slow down and let you leap off and stumble to regain balance upon your own judgement.

Fellow passengers can be overly friendly — I was wondering once about a handsome young man who seemed to be rubbing his hand a little too close to my leg before I realised he was trying to open my satchel.

That’s the only time I’ve been targeted in over two years. So I wouldn’t say that theft is a significant danger on the buses, as long as you’re not fingering through a thick wad of dollars looking for change for your ticket — prepare the small change in advance and keep the big stuff out of sight. A far more common pest is the English language student who invades your space while plucking up the courage to say hello — bury your nose deeper in your book, or put on your headphones and stare wilfully out the window until he or she gets off.

Xe om drivers have a field day whenever

a bus pulls in to the station — many of the passengers will need to be biked the final kilometre or so home. If you end up taking a bus regularly, they will drive you insane.

Make a sport of smiling cheerfully at them as they clamour for your custom, as if you find it all terribly jolly but really aren’t in need of a ride today thank-you-very-much — otherwise, you’ll just end up grumpy and irritable.

That’s exactly what you don’t need. If anything about becoming a regular bus rider is just going to give you further cause for frustration in this town, don’t throw away your taxi card just yet. But if you’re looking for a way to feel less like an outsider here, or want to develop a sixth sense for which street goes where, this is one option that won’t have a significant impact on your wallet.

Route 102: From the bottom of Pham Ngu Lao along to Ben Thanh station, circling down Calmette through to District 4 and turning back through Phu My Hung all the way to the Mien Tay terminus.

Route 152: The one to really be proud of yourself for being-in-the-know — connects the airport and Ben Thanh market, through to District 8 and Binh Chanh without the need to hate your taxi driver. Air-conditioned and with a space for luggage at the front. If you fly into Tan Son Nhat before 6pm, save yourself the rip-off — take this bus.

The Ho Chi Minh City bus website is www. buyttphcm.com.vn (Vietnamese only)

June 2012 Word | 159

RAI

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on R i ve r

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KH OI

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Du

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am

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Ng uy en

Ca o de

Ha n

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TH IM IN H Th iD ieu

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NGU YEN T

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Ky

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S ai g o n B r i d g e / / T hu Th i e m B r i d g e / / An Phu // Q2 N

Tr inh

Va n

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2 3 /9 Pa r k

Lao Ngu m a Ph

D

Q1

Cho Lo n // Q5 & Q6

Pham Hong Thai

g on iH h T

TH AN G

V i n com C en t re

KH OI

Huyn h

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Tr uc g n o ng Tr La . u V T u Ly on Lu h T Ben n a Thanh Th Le

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HA IB A

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Q3

Ky

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Tan Bin h / / Cu Chi / / Cam b o dia

Ca o

Do n

Na m

Th ac h

Rh od es

BI E TH IS AU

VO Tu Qu oc

N

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U

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D

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Ma c

Kh oa n

Al ex an dr e

Tha ng

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C

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VO

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7

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6

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B

Q3

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P

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Qu ye n

HU

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160 | The Word March 2012

Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Nguyen Du, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 - E4, F4, F5 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, B4, B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, D6, E6 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, B4, B5 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 Thai Van Lung, Q1 - B6, C6 Thi Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, C7, D7, E7 Ton That Dam, Q1 - D6, E6 Ton That Thiep, Q1 - D6 Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, D3, D4, E4 Truong Quyen, Q3 - A3, A4 Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, F5, F6 Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5

uoi Ch on Vu

Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Calmette, Q1 - E5, F5 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 Co Bac, Q1 - F4 Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, C1, C2, D1 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, D5, E4 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 Me Linh Circle, Q1 - D7 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 - B7 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

A

g Sa Truon ng Sa H oa

Ky

CENTRAL HCMC

NA M

hinh Thang Ly C

Street Index

2

Va n

1

N

{crossword}

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

THE FOOD PYRAMID 1

2

3

4

5

6

14

9

21 26

30

22

27

28

31

33 36 42

32

34

35

37

38

43

44

47

54 59

13

39

40

41

62

63

64

52

55 60

23

29

49

51

53

12

45

48

50

11

19

20 25

28. Bother persistently: 2wds.

30. Arty Manhattan district 31. Negative vote 32. First public appearances 33. Musclebuilding nutrient found in meat, fish, cheese and soy 35. More bashful 36. Feel sick 37. Sharp ___ tack: 2wds.

38. Hustle and bustle 39. Give assistance to 42. New Jersey county whose seat is Newark 44. Me at such as chicken and turkey 46. See the ____ (go to various tourist spots) 48. Thing spun by a spider 49. Cries upon seeing mice 50. Ham ____ (deli sandwich): 2wds.

51. Actress Ryan of “Star Trek: Voyager” 52. Record store purchases 53. Genetic stuff 54. Street 56. No longer working: Abbr.

58. “____ to please!”: 2wds.

10

16

18

24

58

8

15

17

46

7

56 61

57

65

66

67

68

69

70

ACROSS 1. Like calories in foods that have little or no beneficial nutrients 6. Food placed in the “meat and beans” category 10. Layer of mattes earth 14. Loud racket 15. Not decorated at all 16. ____ about (roughly): 2wds.

17. Food category of which 2 ½ cups should be eaten every day 19. Jacob’s twin, in the Old Testament 20. Pot topper 21. Not as much 23. President Bush’s former press secretary Fleischer 24. Prefix with light 26. Yaks in yokes

60. Sweetening stuff not naturally present in foods that should be consumed only in moderation: 2wds.

65. ____ Reader (alternative digest since 1984) 66. Uriah ____ (clerk in Dickens’s “David Copperfield”) 67. ____ fat (very unhealthful ingredient in some baked and fried foods) 68. Small plateau 69. Federal org. associated with the food pyramid 70. “Credit or ____?” (cashier’s question) DOWN 1. It gets stuffed and stamped: Abbr.

2. Bartender on “The Simpsons” 3. Source of bacon and pork chops 4. Poet whose work inspired “Cats”: 3wds.

5. Himalayan creature also known as the Abominable Snowman 6. Flow back, as the tide 7. Kitchen in a ship or plane 8. Dark ____ (color of some nutrient-rich 17-Across) 9. Congressional meeting: Abbr.

10. Foot part 11. Like the heart-healthy fats in nuts, avocados and plant-based oils 12. Threaten like a lion: 2wds.

13. Food category of which 2 cups

Trivia Buff

should be eaten every day 18. Very handsome young men 22. “Later!”: 2wds.

24. Singer Amos or actress Spelling 25. Kinds of cereals, breads, etc., of which 3 ounces should be eaten every day: 2wds.

27. Prescription anti anxiety drug 29. President Lincoln, for short 30. Health club 32. Pigeon’s extinct cousin: 2wds 34. Holiday when baskets are hidden 35. Capricious escapade 40. Annoys 41. Prefix with functional 43. Bashful 45. Long, preachy talk 46. Mineral essential to the human body that becomes a health risk when ingested excessively 47. Existing from birth 48. Joined in marriage 51. Carvings made from green gems 55. Hawaiian island where Honolulu is 57. Abbr. followed by a date on a town welcome sign 59. “Give ____ break!”: 2wds.

61. Org. concerned with air quality 62. Chitchat 63. Punk/folk singer Di Franco 64. Letters after Q

by Robert Stockdill

Alternative Energy

{pop lingo I. MATCH EACH WORD WITH THE CORRECT PICTURE

Answers on page 2

2) In 2006 who was named as the highest paid female in the world of sport?

3) What is the nickname of the Oklahoma state in the US? 4) In what year did the Gunpowder Plot take place?

5) The Komodo dragon is native to what country?

162 | Word June 2012

6) What was Hiram Hackenbacker's nickname in Thunderbirds?

7) In the music hall song, where did Burlington Bertie come from?

8) What is the name of a type of low fat curd cheese?

9) What does the alcoholic drink Kahlua taste of?

10) By what nickname are nightclub security staff commonly known?

11) What is the central wedge

shaped stone in an arch called?

12) What famous soul artist was once the drummer of Harold Melvin and The Blue Notes?

13) What is the title of the third book in the Lord of the Rings trilogy?

14) What word comes from the Swahili language meaning 'journey'?

15) What was the first suspension bridge in London?

16) Who started the KFC fast food chain?

17) What metal is the best conductor of electricity?

1. Nhà máy

20) Who admitted to adultery in a 1995 interview with Jonathan Dimbleby?

WIN !!

R P IZES

II. MATCH EACH WORD WITH ITS VIETNAMESE SIMILARITY

6. Băng keo

2. Sân bay B

3. Danh thiếp

18) What is the birth stone for November?

19) Name the fabulous winged horse of Greek mythology?

quiz}

The first three people to send all correct answers will win a free 10-hour Vietnamese language course at Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS). Send your answers to christine@wordhcmc.com.*

A

1) If you were in an internet chat room and you wrote the letters "IMO" what would you mean?

Do you own a photog raph th at would look here? E good ma to chris il it tine@ wordhc mc.com

F

7. Phong bì/ Phong thư

G

8. Bút đánh dấu C

4. Điện thoại bàn

H

9. Giấy ghi chú D

5. Máy vi tính

I

10. Máy in E

J

11. Office

K. Giám đốc

12. Assistant

L. Trợ lý

13. Driver

M. Thư ký

14. Director

N. Kế toán

15. Accountant

O. Nhân viên

16. Staff

P. Quản lý

17. Secretary

Q. Cuộc họp

18. Meeting

R. Văn phòng

19. Manager

S. Công ty

20. Company

T. Tài xế

*Prizes are for first time winners only and all submissions will be forwarded to VLS

June 2012 Word | 163

on THE

STOOL Vietnamese TV presenter and aspiring media mogul, Thuy Minh grabs the high chair this month to tell us all about herself.

Photo by EJ Chung

THE PERSON What is your idea of perfect happiness?

Having a super hot, good coffee on a rainy morning.

What is your greatest fear?

About how people might misunderstand me and what I do.

What historical or living figure do you most identify with?

Uncle Ho! I don’t know any one more historical and I feel so close to him. I think most Vietnamese people are like that.

What living person do you most admire?

Myself. I look at myself as an ideal and different person. If you try your best you can really become somebody that you yourself admire.

What is the trait you most deplore in yourself?

Loving myself too much. You can tell by the previous answer, right?

What is the trait you most deplore in others?

Lying.

On what occasions do you lie?

When I cannot tell the truth. I either don’t say a word or come out with every single detail.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?

I’d love to have longer legs. I would be able to walk faster and it would be easier to get down my luggage from the overhead lockers on airplanes.

164 | Word June 2012

What do you consider your greatest achievement?

Creating TV shows for me to host. I have at least two that are currently on air.

How would you like to die?

In my sleep with flowers all around. me That could also be the reason how I die.

THE BUSINESS YanTV is a music channel similar to MTV. Why do you think MTV hasn’t come to Vietnam?

And what do you think of the Yeah1 channel?

Actually MTV Vietnam just started its own journey, fairly new. Before they couldn’t come to Vietnam because no TV channels wanted them. Imagine Lady Gaga on the air every minute, how would Vietnamese parents feel?

I think Yeah 1 is growing fast but their content is very poor and their production quality is low.

What do you hope to achieve in the publishing/ media industry?

Own a production house that produces good content. For myself, publish a cheesy novel about love and boys.

Nam is very similar to Maxim, some may even say a copycat of it. How do you response to this?

I love it. Maxim is a very good platform. [I hope] Vietnamese magazines will be able to reach that level. If someone said to me that I looked like Julia Roberts, I would love it.

How did you become a presenter for YanTV? Someone came to me and offered me the job while I was working for MTV EXIT.

Do you see a conflict of interest in working for two different magazines? How do you remain impartial to both and share your interest equally?

Nope. A profession is a profession. For me, they both need good journalism, writing and editing skills. They just have different directions. I spend mornings at Vietnam Ngay Moi since it’s an online newspaper; the morning news is the most important.

Afternoons are for Nam, but we work only half of the month. After the magazine goes to print, we are free for the next two weeks.

You’re editor-in-chief of Vietnam Ngay Moi, brand manager at Nam Magazine and a café owner. How do you juggle all these roles?

It’s more about how you arrange time in your schedule. Drinking less coffee, eating faster, drinking and smoking more (because of stress). I actually see myself as having only one title — a media person.

What magazines do you read in your spare time? Do you prefer reading magazines online or in print?

I mostly read Facebook. My friends share the best news there. But I prefer printed publications; my favourite is Elle Decoration and some independent magazines that I buy elsewhere.