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Bountiful bouquet There was a time when visitors to the Stellenbosch Wine Route were limited to wine-tasting activities. Justyn Barnes discovers that fresh initiatives are broadening the region’s appeal
J
ust how great a wine lover does one need to be to appreciate South Africa’s famous winelands? I enjoy a glass as much as the next man, but I’m not a wine obsessive, and I’m more likely to choose my wine according to what’s on special offer than its vintage. Happily, on a tour of the Stellenbosch Wine Route, I soon see that food, wildlife, activities and enjoying the scenery are as much a part of the experience here – and that you don’t necessarily need to know your Claret from your Beaujolais to become engrossed in the art of wine-making. My first tasting stop is the Beyerskloof estate which champions Pinotage, the grape variety invented in South Africa. Its 140-capacity restaurant even serves Pinotage burgers – doused in the red stuff – and as with all on-site restaurants at vineyards, the mark-up on wine is tiny: a burger and a decent bottle will only set you back around a tenner here. The nearby Hartenberg Estate, founded in 1692, has 70 hectares of wetlands and is alive with birdsong. Here we enjoy a wine and homemade food tasting (for about £7.50) where I discover that its award-winning 2010 Riesling pairs beautifully with spicy samosas, for example. The estate also offers picnic backpacks (around £11, including wine) for visitors who fancy taking a 1.5-3 mile hike around
its new wetland trail. I take a lunch stop at the Cuvee Restaurant at the Simonsig Estate, which is highly recommended for its fresh locally sourced fare. I am also very impressed by the eco-friendly Villiera Wine Estate, which employs more than 1,000 people through the year, and provides homes for permanent workers and a creche for their children on-site. I stop sipping wine for long enough to go out on a game drive with owner Simon Grier (around £11). He guides me around Villiera’s 220-hectare wildlife sanctuary, which he cheerfully admits is “Mickey Mouse” by South African safari standards, but we do see zebras, springboks and have a close encounter with a giant tortoise. For wow factor, though, the beautiful Waterford Estate is a mustvisit. From the pungent citrus and lavender trees lining the long driveway, to its handsome Mediterranean-style villa and its signature wine-and-chocolate tasting (around £5pp), this is a treat for all the senses. I’m surprised to find that a bite of rose geranium mint chocolate, combined with a swig of Waterford’s Heatherleigh dessert wine, tastes just like Turkish Delight. At Spier Wine Farm, I whizz around on a Segway as a more unusual way to explore its vineyard, and have a chance to see the free-range animals and the organic vegetable plot that supply Spier’s farm-to-table
The vineyards at Spier Wine Farm can be explored by Segway
Simon Grier shows off the wildlife at Villiera
restaurant, Eight. There is also an excellent collection of contemporary South African art on display around the estate. Around a third of the 152 members of the Stellenbosch Wine Routes association offer accommodation, meaning lots of choice for visitors who want to spend a few nights in the region. I stay at Asara, for example, which is a beautifully appointed hotel in a stunning location. Breakfast on the balcony of its restaurant, Rafael’s, looking out across the hills of Stellenbosch on my last morning is a particular delight. In Stellenbosch town itself, clients can stay in more traditional hotels, though I prefer wine estates like Asara to the town-based D’Ouwe Werf hotel, where the modern bedroom decor feels at odds with the Georgian charm of the building, and the food in its 1802 restaurant is relatively disappointing.
Easy access
Hartenberg Wine Estate dates back to 1692
What makes the Cape Winelands such an appealing day trip or shortstay destination is its proximity to Cape Town, and the city is the ideal launch pad from which to embark on all 17 of Turn to 42
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CHEAT SHEET Impress your clients with our tasting guide to five key wines of the Stellenbosch region… Waterford The Jem 2007 A dry red expressing the depth and classic power of Cabernet Sauvignon-driven blends from 2007. Shiraz and Malbec bring density and softness, while Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese lend a refreshing, dry finish. Kleine Zalze 2011 Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Incorporating the best grapes from Western Cape vineyards near the coast, this is a fat Sauvignon Blanc with a balance of green fig, pea and floral herbaceous flavours. The Cape Winelands include Stellenbosch (pictured), Paarl and Worceseter
South Africa’s official wine routes. The quality of food and wine in Cape Town is as good as on the farms and estates that produced it and I enjoy spectacular meals at some of South Africa’s most famous luxury hotels: the Azure Restaurant of The Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa; and at Reuben’s in One&Only Cape Town. Reuben’s monthly Wine & Dine evening (April to October) features a delicious menu prepared by TV celebrity chef Reuben Riffel, with each course matched to a complementary wine. On the evening I visit, the wines hail from golfer Ernie Els’s highly regarded estate. The charming Riffel himself comes out to chat to diners between courses, and a prize raffle (I win an Ernie Els golf shirt!) adds to a convivial evening. Great value too at less than £30 per head.
Africa held its first wine tourism trade show, Vindaba, last year. With its tendency towards sustainable agriculture, and its scope for creating jobs and encouraging entrepreneurship, wine tourism also ties in perfectly with South Africa’s commitment to responsible tourism. One of the most interesting innovators is the not-for-profit Stellenbosch 360 organisation. Through its Route 360 scheme, it is creating employment for local communities that have previously
Promoting the wines The Stellenbosch region has been attracting wine-loving visitors for decades, but in more recent years, the South African government has identified “wine tourism” as crucial in the country’s bid to be a top-20 tourist destination by the year 2020. To promote wine tourism, South
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Wine and chocolate tasting at Waterford
been excluded from wine tourism. Route 360 offers visitors 36 activity options across eight general categories – food, sport, art, culture, heritage, nature, education and wine – with special rates available for tour operators. On this route, as on the more traditional Stellenbosch Wine Route I follow, wine is just one part of a much wider experience. I’ve sampled countless fine tipples, from Cabernets to Chardonnays, but I leave South Africa aware that there’s far more besides for visitors to enjoy in its winelands. Book it: Travel 2 offers a South African Self Drive from £969pp based on two sharing, including flights, car hire, three nights at the Southern Sun Waterfront in Cape Town and three nights at the River Manor Boutique Hotel & Spa, Stellenbosch. Kuoni’s environmentally and ethically responsible 13-night Fair Trade South Africa Garden Route self-drive holiday incorporates wine, wildlife and adventure, with visits to the Amakhala Game Reserve and three nights at the Spier hotel in Stellenbosch. Priced from £2,899pp in low season.
Villiera Stellenbosch Monro Brut 2007 A multi-award-winning sparkling wine with a rich creamy, yeasty nose, and full, ripe toasty flavour on the middle palate developing finesse and complexity in the aftertaste. Kanonkop Estate Paul Sauer 2009 Probably the best vintage of the last 15 years from the Kanonkop Estate. Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Cabernet Franc (12%) and Merlot (19%) combine in a full-bodied red with a complex bouquet of blackcurrant, red berry, mocha and spice. Spier 21 Gables Pinotage 2010 The flavour of caramelised black cherries with hints of spice and dark chocolate makes this an ideal wine with mature beef or strong cheese.