Issuu

ROGUE REPORT

Editor-in-Chief: Donzhane' lyons

Creative Director: donzhane lyons

Fashion Editors: donzhane lyons

Special Thanks:

Instructors Elena Eberhard & Lia Larrea

Photographer yohei Hirano

contributing creatives dougie newton, wisdom davina, nasir dowdell, alexis farrar, jacarlos harris & jahlil Keola-Eldridge.

Cover Image:

zara denim jacket, zara flared sippered jeans, maison margiela tabis, jonimeity necklaces and secret manna barbed wired bracelet. Photography by yohei hirano. Styling by donzhane lyons. Model: Nasir Dowdell

Facing Page:

zara denim jacket, zara flared sippered jeans, maison margiela tabis, jonimeity necklaces and secret manna barbed wired bracelet. Photography by Yohei Hirano. Styling by Donzhane lyons. Model: Nasir Dowdell

THE REBELS RUNDOWN

Hii Rebels,

Welcome to the first thought-provoking issue of WMY2

In this ever evolving environment of creativity and innovation, we believe that true inspiration stems from authentic conversations and raw perspectives. WMY2 mission is to bring you closer to the visionary creatives who are shaping our world, engaging in conversations that go beyond the surface and diving deep into the essence of their experiences and perspectives.

In this issue, we present more than just a collection of stories but pages of unconventional ideas and stimulating topics. These conversations reveal the truths that drive their work, the challenges they face, and the passions that fuel their creativity. Through these revelations we aim to inspire you, our readers, to reflect on your own creative journeys and personal identities, letting them challenge your preconceptions and ignite your curiosity.

Thank you for being a part of this conversation. Together, lets challenge norms,transform the power of creativity, and uncover the stories that shape our world on a deeper level.

With anticipation and excitement,

Donzhane Lyons Editor-In-Chief, WMY2

" I allow the creative thoughts come to me ... Maintain a hunger and desire for new innovations "

-NASIR DOWDELL

"Dont get it twisted, theyve always existed they just havent always been welcomed to a seat at the table"

Photogrphy By: Jamie Morgan

Black models are not solely breaking preconceptions in an industry that has always been defined by restricted beauty standards, yet they are entirely transforming the face of fashion. From the pioneers who walked the runway to the influential icons of today who dominate world wide platforms are using their influence to confront stereotypes, reinvent elegance, and advocate for diversity.

Over the course of fashion history, black models have had an impact on the industry and shifted the atmosphere in which things are being done. Black models were absent from mainstream and it wasn’t until the 2000s when featuring black models was not rare but was still seasonal in this predominantly white industry. Let’s get into the icons who didn’t just break the barriers but shattered them! Iman reinvented the definition of what it means to be alluring, proving that black beauty is multifaceted and powerful. Naomi brought unmatched fire energy to the runway, noting that black women can own this industry. Alex Wek, rocking her one of one look, flipped the script on old beauty standards and opened up the runway for more models of color to step in. And Donyale Luna? The icon herself made a debut as the first black model on the cover of Vogue, making history in a time where it was needed most because these doors had been long shut. There are so many other pioneers who laid the groundwork, making space for black models to shine in the world that often tries to keep us out. From the iconic legends to the new faces owning the scene today like Leiome Anderson, Anok Yai, Alton Mason, and Luka Sabbat. They’ve all made it clear that representation matters and black beauty is unmissable.

The presence of black models in fashion shows and campaigns has changed since we first saw a black model on the runway, mirroring societal changes and breaking norms for inclusivity in the industry. Let’s be real: the industry used to put white women on a pedestal, sidelining black women and limiting what beauty could be. It took until the late 20th century till we saw some real change and that’s all due to the pioneers who dared to challenge the status quo and redefined the rules! At events like NYFW, the diversity is showing that the people are ready for change. “It makes you feel like the only reason you’re incorporated into the conversation is because you’re black.” Forced to educate professionals when hairdressers don’t know how to handle their texture or makeup artists fail to provide their foundation their shade, they make the best of bad situations. “I don’t have to worry if they’ll have my color or if someone will be able to do my hair,” says Fran Summers of the scenes she’s witnessed backstage during Fashion Week. If we break it down, conversations about age and body go hand in hand with race, making it very clear we need a broader perspective on the issue at stake. As fashion evolves, having black models become more vital. Those in power need to step up and be intentional about making these changes.

The upcoming generation of young black muses in the modeling world are feeling some psychological and cultural vibes. These vibes can reshape how they see themselves, their goals, and what beauty and success looks like in their eyes. With how their peers are shown in the media and fashion hits hard, shifting their sense of identity, belonging, and individuality.

When you’re young and see yourself represented in different roles, even when you’re not the star of the show, it boosts your confidence to a whole new level and now your dreams are even bigger than they started out to be. On the flip side, being young and black without a voice can make you feel invisible, holding you back from your true potential. The lack of recognition can mess with your mental and life overall, fueling racism and making it hard to see your own growth. Bringing inclusivity to the forefront through visibility will be able to inspire those who come next, being able to reach beyond the stars and redefine what possib;e by affirming the identities of young black creatives. Being able to witness black models become successful can inspire those who are younger to pursue their careers in fashion, art and music. Keep pushing for inclusion, and we will be able to build the industry that young black creatives can thrive in their careers and go beyond what was set for them.

To wrap this up, looking past the redefining of beauty, black models have also served as powerful cultural icons, influencing the fashion trends and societal perceptions. Their visibility has led to conversations about representation and identity, allowing young black creatives to embrace their own voices and seek the creative fields that they have the desire to pursue in life. Black models are gonna keep shaking the table and in fashion at that, pushing inclusivity and authenticity while empowering each other. They’re all about challeng -

MY BLA CK MUS ES

un mask ed

Art + Creatove Director: Donzhane Lyons

Photgrapher: Yohei Hirano

Warbrobe Stylist: Donzhane Lyons

Model: Nasir Dowdell

Hooded Denim Jacket: Zara

Flared Fit Zippered Jeans: Zara

Patent Leather Derby Tabi’s: Maison Margiela Necklaces: Jonimety

Barbed Wired Bracelet: Secret of Manna

Leather Jacket: Stylist Archive

White Button-Down: H&M

Leather Shorts: Zara x Steven Miesel

Patent Leather Derby Tabi’s: Maison Margiela

Black Meta Glasses: Ray Ban

Breaking Rules With mowalola

In the Mowalola’s spring 2025 ready to wear collection, located in an air hangar-sized warehouse in north Greenwich dotted with go-go cages and simulacrum club bathrooms with one red platform splintering through the middle. The collection titled Dirty Pop, Mowalola intended to capture the complex aspect of modern femininity, demonstrating how women can be both powerful combining art, culture and fashion. The show emerged as a vibrant and thought provoking exploration of identity, duality, and cultural heritage. In an interview with Interview, Mowalola shared her thoughts on the ambitious nature of her show, stating, “I really just wanted to show out. I wanted to approach fashion in a new way. Last season was the first time I ever got to watch my show, and it was amazing, but I was like, ‘I want more.’ Every time I do something I’m like, ‘I want more.’ So it was just like, ‘Give me more.’

At the heart of Mowalola’s spring 2025 collection focuses on the exploration of duality. This concept is interconnected throughout the garments, reflecting the complexities of modern identity. The collection contrasts powerful, precise styles with soft, fluid textiles, encouraging people to contemplate the relationship between strength and vulnerability. Their designs instill a sense of strength, urging them to accept their multiple personalities. The impeccable contrast not only showed the designers skill in crafting versatile silhouettes but also the modern woman’s fierce yet tender, bold yet introspective dual nature. The color palette of the collection was organic neutrals to cola red and an occasional flash of hot pink which was nothing short of electrifying. The color selection conveyed a sense of optimism making each piece feel alive. Textiles played a role as well, with Mowalola experimenting with a range of materials including ultra cropped bikers, hirsute, micro skirts, arm binding tube tops cut from latex, and sling shot bodysuits with floor scraping trains. It was all raw and animalistic which represented different skins that reflected her Nigerian heritage.

She masterfully reinterpreted traditional elements, blending them with contemporary styles to create garments that feel timeless and modern. The cultural

homage was not only visually but also a powerful reminder of the importance of heritage in shaping identity. Each look was almost as if it was telling a story, inviting the audience to engage with the narratives behind the designs. The ability to weave her culture into her modern designs, the ability she has reinterpreting traditional elements of dress into modern silhouettes and creating dialogue between the past and present. She focuses on resilience and self discovery resonated deeply, emphasizing that fashion can be a form of personal expression and empowerment.

Empowerment was one theme that I felt through this collection and runway show. In which, these designs encourage consumers to express themselves, highlighting their individuality and authentically themselves. The silhouette designs were very flattering and diverse among the body types, inclusive and accessible. You can see that the casting was intentional and impactful, being able to show a variety of identities and backgrounds, which you can understand that she is committed to inclusivity. Mowalola prioritizes inclusivity, not just making a statement about representation, but also establishing a feeling of community within the fashion industry.

The collection’s themes of duality, cultural heritage, inclusion, and empowerment are particularly relevant in today’s varied world. Mowalola’s pieces instill confidence in their shoppers, reminding them that genuine empowerment comes from accepting ourselves and having the courage to express themselves.

Her study of contradiction, exceptional hues, and ethical narratives that encourage consumers to accept their complexities and appreciate their distinctive qualities. The collection serves as a reminder that fashion is more than simply aesthetics, it is also a tool for self expression and narrative. While Mowalola continues to develop and challenge traditions and push boundaries, her work will and has always appealed to a wide range of audiences which is allowing her to solidify her place and influence in the fashion world. The collection represents a vision for the future of fashion that values one’s cultural history, reminding the world of the importance of what should be worn.

Annakiki is a distinctive independent fashion brand that was founded by Chinese designer Anna Yang. Annakiki is known for their avant garde and daring designs while being able to explore the surrealist fantasy of fashion. Coinciding in a space between past and present allows creative destruction and innovative sculptures to form while differentiating itself by its creative approach to design, which often incorporates modern art and pop culture aspects into its designs. The rapid fire, the digital aspect of the contemporary world served as the inspiration for the spring 2025 ready to wear collection, Techno-Natural Utopia which emphasized how technology influences everyday life binding the relationship of nature and technology. In Mr.Warburton it was stated “ANNAKIKI brings this concept to life by blending futuristic designs with natural elements, envisioning a world where technology and nature unite harmoniously”. There was a sense of suspense in the air, building to the collection’s compelling story that would eventually take center stage. The use of 3D-printed components and fabrics, which provided an unusual variation, was one noteworthy aspect. These components additionally boosted the aesthetic value nevertheless added to the durability of the garments.

The collection promoted distinctiveness and conveying oneself with its large, avant garde and strong accessories.

The power of black in fashion is a timeless idea that surpasses styles and represents beauty, class, and adaptability. With its dramatic all-black color scheme, Annakiki’s spring 2025 ready to wear collection demonstrated the brand’s devotion to aggressive design while emphasizing simplicity. This decision produced a striking and structured visual story that accentuated the versatile details and innovative silhouettes. The collection honored the intimidating strength of black by demonstrating an extensive variety of captivating patterns that can be made with only one hue. The collection included an array of textures, including structured materials like leathers and transparent textiles to lush soft velvets. The entirely black look was kept interesting by the contrast, which gave it dimension as well as character.

Black Couture:

Featuring its immeasurable jackets, irregular garments, and fitted items, this collection by Annakiki, renowned for its avant-garde forms, carried on the tradition.The proportions were adjusted by the silhouettes to provide an upscale but edgy visual appearance. The outcome was a collection which felt both classic and cutting edge, precisely harmonizing with the brand’s inventive attitude. The way that Annakiki intersects fashion and technology in the same world is mind boggling. And understanding how she has been able to continu - ously complete this in her collections. With the use of technology, she may experiment with novel materials and methods, creating avant-garde structures and styles enabling elaborate patterns and distinct forms that challenge the limits of creativity. Fashion and technology come together to create a dynamic environment that encourages long-term viability, value, and innovation. As the industry advances, this intersec- tion will continue to transform how we create, produce, and experience fashion, making it more inventive and accessible than ever before. Annakiki is pushing beyond boundaries in the fashion industry by creatively incorporating technology into its designs. During Milan Fashion Week, Annakiki’s Spring 2025 ready to wear runway collection made a strong impression on the audience. The brand emphasized the depth of sub- stance and design by sticking with an entirely black color scheme, producing an attractive experience that embraced distinctiveness and creativity. Her innovative use of technology and design elements not only produced outstanding fashion, but it also established a stan - dard for the industry’s future. We are constantly reminded by Anna Yang’s perspective that fashion is more than simply clothes; it’s a medium for meaningful conversation, self-expression, and inno - vation.

At The Core Of the attico

The Attico Spring 2025 ready to wear collection runway show was captivating and showcased the brand’s signature silhouette with a fresh twist. Named The Sound of Breaking Glass, embodied a sense of confident femininity that was both timeless and modern. The show was held in Milan, Italy where the runway presentation was a work of art that was adorned with installations that echoed the collection which allowed the attendees to enjoy a visual experience that went beyond the garments.“There is a story that we want you to hear. A personal one every woman who experienced a break- up can relate to. we want you to hear. A personal one every woman who experienced a break- up can relate to” which was stated on their official website.

From the moment the first model hit the runway, it was clear this collection was all about embracing individuality, self-expression & power. “Our feelings, which are reflected in the collection, in the show space, in the narrative sounds of the score, revolve around the idea of experiences that mold one’s spirit and personality, sculpting oneself everyday. We are being, quite literally, very sheer and very transparent in telling who we are, in ways that we probably have never done before”. You could feel right away that this was going to be an experience. Each look was well curated; the atmosphere was electric. Some of the highlights for the runway show were the oversized silhouettes that balanced structure and fluidity, movement and comfortability that didn’t strain or take away from the elegance of the garments but a sense of freedom that is often missing in high fashion. Many looks showcased tailored elements such as defined shoulders and cinched waist which were a great contrast with the flowing skirts and billowing sleeves. It was the ability to show how versatile the pieces can be and can be seamlessly transitioned from day to night.

The collection used fabrics such as satin, chains and light chiffons that brought the luxury aspect and a layer of sophistication with intricate detailing with the draping and beading that added masterful craftsmanship. The craftsmanship was well throughout with the attention to detail. There were many pieces that allowed the luxury sense when being caught by the light such as the intricate beading and embellishments. Layering was another key element in this collection, with models layered in dresses and tops that added some depth and texture was artfully done and a great balance and proportion. The color palette also played a role in this collection, with an exuberant color selection that included rich jewel tones, pastels, and unexpected color combinations. Bold hues such as electric blue and vibrant orange with softer shades of lavender and blush created a visual feast that was striking and harmonious. They played into the whimsy and playful elements that put a special touch on this collection.

The accessories played a key role in finishing the looks, with signature statement pieces taking center stage. Highlights included chunky necklaces, oversized earrings that brought the drama, structured handbags with bold hardware, and a modern, edgy vibe. Even the footwear varied from platform heels to elevated sandals that were designed to enhance the overall aesthetic of the collection that were designed to make a statement. It seems as if sustainability had also emerged in the collection and played an important aspect, many pieces were crafted from sustainable materials, and this paid homage to The Attico’s dedication to their eco-friendly practices.

The Attico’s Spring 2025 ready to wear show was an imaginative showcase, encapsulating the brand’s while pushing boundaries in the fashion world. As the show progressed you could tell that The Attico was not only showcasing the clothing, but they were telling a story about femininity. The collection was inclusive and a real piece of art that is very notable that is refreshing. The Attico has proven that fashion can be both a celebration of artistry and a powerful means of self-expression through the story.

LETS GET REAL & RAW WITH DOUGIE NEWTON

Sheesh, where do I even begin?! Dougie isn’t just a mentor, stylist and author; he’s a visionary. Not only has he shown me the skills of what’s needed to succeed in the industry but also the importance of staying true to myself and pushing creative boundaries. To know him is to love him. His guidance has been invaluable and I’m forever inspired by his creativity and passion. I’m honored to have been taken under his wings and learning from the goat himself! We are forever embedded. I know that I’m a lucky girl to experience him but maybe the world can see him through my lens. Sheesh, where do I even begin?! Dougie isn't just a mentor, stylist and author; he's a visionary. Not only has he shown me the skills of what's needed to succeed in the industry but also the importance of staying true to myself and pushing creative boundaries. To know him is to love him. His guidance has been invaluable and I'm forever inspired by his creativity and passion. I'm honored to have been taken under his wings and learning from the goat himself! We are forever embedded. I know that I'm a lucky girl to experience him but its time the world see him through my lens.

D: What was the inspiration behind ARKIV, the initial vision that drove you, where did it all begin?

DN: ARKIV began with me wanting to be a student of my craft, fashion styling. I had a childlike interest in all the nuances involving fashion, such as the history of socks and the origination of thread. While visiting the public library to study, I thought I should share the information I was learning with my community. There, ARKIV was born.

D: Were there any industry gaps you were aiming to address when creating ARKIV? If so, explain?

DN: The industry gap that seems unspoken about is access to education curated for freelance artists. As an independent contractor, so much is learned through experience; however, quite a few fundamentals, such as how to invoice correctly, could start freelancers with a foot ahead.

D: What is ARKIV’s mission?

DN: Our mission is to modify the landscape of educational materials and resources for independent artists.

D: How did curating your own textbook come about during your journey as a stylist? What drew you to this point?

DN: The journey to textbooks was organic. We began as a social media page, only highlighting and educating on specific fashion items such as beanies, socks, and the Zoot suit. The lifespan of the posts did not sit well with me; I wanted something that sticks with you, and you have to see it and learn every day on your coffee table. This all originated from

me wanting to strengthen my knowledge of my industry and in return share it with others.

D: What defines a Cultural Icon?

DN: A Cultural Icon follows their voice and organically has shifted a culture through their artistry.

D: What was the creative process like creating cultural icons? Where did the name stem from?

DN: The name changed about ten times, and I loved that process because it assisted with finding the book’s heartbeat. The book was designed entirely, and once my editor and I sat with it, we talked about the artists profiled within it and their importance to hip-hop culture. The creative process was daunting and fulfilling. I’ve learned much about the fashion industry, team leadership, and manufacturing. I am most proud of the team I assembled.

D: What motivated you to focus on cultural icons and pioneers in black culture for your 2nd issue?

DN: Cultural Icons is an extension of my first title, 90’s Fashion History Through The Eyes of Hip-Hop. I was still growing in this literature space so instead of two different topics, I chose to keep the audience engaged and further their education on the singular topic of 90’s hip-hop fashion. I chose to begin with the nineties for numerous reasons, the main being it has changed many lives, including mine. 90’s fashion was built on resistance and following a unique voice. I chose to encourage that for audiences of today.

D: How did you select the pioneers featured for this issue?

DN: The selection process was easy due to the fact that many were spoken of in issue one, just not profiled. There are many other artists of color that could have filled these pages, that is the beauty of literature, there can be many editions to further educate. However, stylist, June Ambrose is just pure gold. Dapper Dan is legendary. Misa Hylton single handedly changed the power of femininity with Lil’ Kim. These artists walked in their own right and in return influenced a culture. Fab.

D: When creating your textbooks, what is the main takeaway you want your readers to receive?

DN: The main takeaway would be to make yourself proud before others. I know this does not speak to the text, but I enjoy that. We are creating feelings. The book should be a reminder to slow down, read, watch, laugh, be outside, and read some more, do something you’ve never done and read a bit more. I hope readers feel optimistic about the future and their future.

D: How do you decide on what the topic will be for the next issue?

DN: Honestly, those that know me know that I am pretty emotional. I allow the topics to speak to me. If I do not feel it, I will not want to read, learn or write about it. The process has to be enjoyable, bottomline. I do take into account my audience and I am proud to know that my audience is filled with fearless mavericks with an excitement individuality, that is ARKIV.

D: What is next for ARKIV ?

DN: I am looking forward to the community engagements. There is a lot on the horizon from head spearing a conference to creating food stipends for independent artists struggling to make ends meet. We will become one of the greatest institutions catered to the development of artists.

black boys run

The moment we’ve all been waiting for. Black culture isn’t a trend, it’s the blueprint. They love to steal what’s ours, slap a high fashion package on it and call it ‘iconic’ but no, catch up. Our sense of style is what they try to replicate but our soul and history can never be touched. But you know what? We as a black community have had this under wraps for a long time and it’s our time. Or is it? I don’t really know how to feel about this new Met Gala theme for 2025 being Black Dandyism. Are we finally getting our flowers or are they just plucking the petals? We will know sooner than later.

Ok, we are going to start with the soul and history of ‘black dandyism’ since the people may or may not know. “Dandyism is a cultural and style movement that started out in 19th century Britain. A dandy is a man with a luxurious lifestyle that prioritizes opulence, elegance and good taste and physical appearance, “dressing wisely and well”, as Miller put it...But the dandy is not a man who’s just well-dressed, he’s also interested in “a negotiation of identity”according to Miller. Another source said “Today, dandyism is a more recent manifestation of hip hop culture. Black dandies are using hip hop methods of sampling to mix styles and articles of clothing from different eras and cultures to articulate statements of Black masculinity and individuality “.Again going back to the roots of where it all started before entering mainstream fashion. Now that we’ve unlocked that, let’s dive into why this is such an iffy moment for black culture if you will.

For a powerhouse like the Met to finally recognize it in their curation and blow it up at the Gala? That’s not just a moment, it’s a whole damn movement and they better not act like we haven’t been setting the standard while they were out here playing catch-up. Black culture has always been a source of innovation, but when mainstream fashion borrows from it, there’s a history of failing to credit or uplift the black creators behind those innovations. Black culture has been doing this for decades but now everyone else is taking what we created and wearing it like By putting Black dandyism front and center, the Met Gala is about to recreate the old definition of a “dandy” and replace it with something fresh and fierce. This isn’t just about suits and shiny shoes, it’s about how those of

run the world

color have been remixing, revolutionizing, and reinventing what it means to be a dandy since day one. The gala isn’t just giving Black dandyism a seat at the table; it’s making the table and flipping it with a whole new swagger and identity that no one can ignore. By making Black Dandyism the theme, the Met Gala is finally putting Black fashion icons who’ve been shaping the industry for decades front and center, giving them the shine they’ve long been denied. This isn’t just about a theme, it’s about opening the floodgates for Black designers and creatives to take over the global stage, putting their work, influence, and culture where it belongs. The theme sparks a deeper conversation about Black fashion, one that shatters the stereotypes and dives straight into its intellectual, political, and cultural power. It’s not just about looks; it’s about the unapologetic legacy of style that has always been a form of resistance, revolution, and self-expression.

While there’s still a lot to unpack about how Black culture is treated in the fashion industry, the Met Gala’s Black Dandyism theme is a major win. It’s a chance to spotlight the rich cultural and historical legacy of Black style, give Black excellence its due shine, and honor the visionaries who’ve been rewriting the dandy playbook for generations. This isn’t just about checking a box, it’s a bold reminder that Black culture has shaped, and continues to shape, the global fashion scene. We’re not just here for a seat at the table; it’s time to take the throne and steer the conversation forward.

At the end of the day, the Met Gala’s Black Dandyism theme isn’t just celebrating fashion; it’s a full-on acknowledgment of Black culture’s undeniable, enduring impact on fashion and now, the world is finally starting to catch up to the revolution we’ve been leading.

"black culture isn't a trend, its the blueprint"

clocking tea with wisdom

Q: What’s your secret weapon when you’re in a creative rut?

A: When I hit a creative rut, my secret weapon is taking a step back and immersing myself in something completely different, like art, music, or even architecture. A change of scenery or new inspiration always helps me see things from a fresh perspective. I also love to scroll through fashion archives or street style galleries—it helps me rediscover past trends and translate them into something modern and relevant.

Q: What’s your guilty pleasure in fashion—something you love but others might not understand?

A: I love incorporating army fatigue into unexpected outfits. People usually think of it as purely utilitarian or military-inspired, but I enjoy making it chic and modern—pairing it with sleek heels or layering it with luxurious fabrics. It’s not everyone’s taste, but I think it adds a unique edge to any outfit.

Q: If you could only preserve one outfit from this year in a time capsule, what would it be?

A: It would definitely be a look combining oversized combat boots with a tailored trench coat and an oversized hoodie underneath. It’s a mix of streetwear with classic pieces, showing how the lines between casual and formal are blurring in today’s fashion. Plus, it’s super versatile and timeless.

Q: If you could assemble your dream team of creatives (photographers, models, designers), who would be on it?

A: Photographer: I’ve had the pleasure of working with Tevin Towns on several personal projects. His eye for detail and unique perspective always bring something special to every shoot. I’m excited to continue building with him and hope we can work together again soon.

Model: For a project, I would love to have Rihanna as the muse. Her confidence, style, and influence are unmatched, and I think she brings a level of creativity and edge that would elevate any shoot.

Designer: As a designer, I would love to collaborate with Marshall, Columbia—a brand from New York that

has such fun and bold pieces. Their playful yet elevated designs align with my style and aesthetic, and I think it would be a great creative collaboration.

Q: What’s one styling tip you think everyone should know to elevate their wardrobe? A: Don’t be afraid to experiment with layering. It’s an easy way to add dimension to your outfit and bring a new life to pieces you already own. Layering different textures, like denim with silk or leather with knitwear, can instantly elevate your look without needing to buy anything new

Q: Who or what is your biggest unexpected influence outside of fashion?

A: Music is my biggest unexpected influence. The way artists express themselves through music, lyrics, and stage presence has a huge impact on how I approach styling. The energy and emotion that music evokes can translate directly into fashion, which is why I often pull from different genres to create mood boards or looks

Q: What’s the most challenging aspect of styling and directing a fashion shoot, and how do you overcome it?

A: The most challenging part is balancing creative vision with logistics. Sometimes what you imagine might not align with the resources or timing available. To overcome this, I always plan ahead but stay flexible. I communicate with my team, especially with photographers and models, to make sure everyone is on the same page. Adjusting in the moment and improvising while keeping the vibe intact is key.

Q: What’s the most challenging aspect of styling and directing a fashion shoot, and how do you overcome it?

Lets not sugarcoat it, mainstream is catching on to what we’ve been doing for decades but they’re not always giving credit when credit is due. The setting trends? been there done that, the same thing with creating culture, and defining style, but now that it’s in the spotlight everybody wants a piece of the cake like this is not a free for all. We’ve seen how they take what we create, water it down and sell it back to us for double the price.

Starting with these fast fashion companies, baby Fashion Nova? Shein? The list goes on. We’ve seen how they take what we create, water it down and sell it back to us for double the price. We can even put black culture aside for a moment and just realize how these companies will even mass produce a collection they just saw straight off the runway, at this point forget copying, it’s a bit disrespectful. You just take away all the meaning and power of fashion behind what made the collection or a one of one piece and turn it straight to commodity and now we are the ones left holding the bag. Oh yeah, when it comes to everyone having access to the same pieces, especially vintage fashion. When you flood the market with the same items, the value drops. It’s like wearing a limited edition sneaker and suddenly, they’re everywhere, on every feed and store. The value and uniqueness of owning something that’s supposed to be limited is now what? Gone. Taking it to the most infamous Birkins, matter fact we can add Chanel to the scene too. At a point in time there was only a select few that could get a hold of Chanel let alone a Birkin and on top of having one, that was a status symbol for you. Now? Chile you see every influencer and their momma with a Chanel classic flap in every possible color and a Hermes Birkin. It’s just like you no longer have to do a deep dive, the spark of finding a rare vintage piece or haunting for archived gems is gone and that’s a problem for me.

Gatekeeping for all or by all?

Now? Chile you see every influencer and their momma with a Chanel classic flap in every possible color and a Hermes Birkin. It’s just like you no longer have to do a deep dive, the spark of finding a rare vintage piece or haunting for archived gems is gone and that’s a problem for me. To prove my point Mishi Ali stated “I have a core memory from a few years back of visiting a small shop in Italy. I noticed that they had a variety of different garments but not a lot of each kind. I asked the shopkeeper if they had a shirt that I wanted in my size and she told me they had only made two that had both been sold and they wouldn’t be making any more. “Here in Italy, we don’t like to sell too much of one garment, because we don’t like to see everyone in the streets wearing the same thing.” was her response to my tragic reaction”.

Seriously, there was a time when stumbling across a 90s YSL jacket or Chanel bag felt as if you had unlocked a hidden fashion superpower, you could walk in a room, rock that rare find and know it was yours and no one could touch it. And then dun dun dun you have sites like grailed, vestaire collective and therealreal who have turned that one rarity into mainstream inventory. What used to feel like an exclusive piece of history is now just another option for someone with a credit card and internet connection.

The Power of Black Muses

Emmanuel, G. (2022, October 12). Diversifying The Fashion Industry Started With Black Models. Essence. https://www. essence.com/fashion/iman-and-marcellas-reynolds-on-the-impact-of-black-models/

Marcellus, K. (2024, April 29). Iconic Black Models Shaping Fashion’s Past, Present And Future. Essence. https://www. essence.com/fashion/iconic-black-models-shaping-fashions-pastpresent-future/

Olagunju, F. (2024, February 17). Storming The Runways: Black Models Are On The Rise But Are We Still Treated Like Second Class Citizens? Reform The Funk. https://www.reformthefunk. com/features/storming-the-runways-black-models-are-on-therise-but-are-we-still-treated-like-second-class-citizens

Okwodu, J. (2020, July 22). The Models of the Moment Get Real About Race, Privilege, and Power. Vogue. https://www.vogue. com/article/the-models-doc-episode-three-race-privilege-power

Shoaib, J. (2022, October 5). Brands are casting ‘diverse’ models. But they’re still not challenging Eurocentric beauty norms. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/ brands-are-casting-diverse-models-but-theyre-still-not-challenging-eurocentric-beauty-norms

Cazzaniga, Dream. (2023, September 18). “Donyale Luna

Changed the Face of Fashion in the ’60s. Now, the Revolutionary Black Model Is Finally Getting Her Due.” British Vogue www. vogue.co.uk/article/donyale-luna-model-vogue.

black boys run the world

Dana, D. (2024, October 10). What is black dandyism? the met gala theme explained. Culted. https://culted.com/met-gala2025-theme-black-dandyism-tailoring/

Hazlehurst, B. (2024, October 9). How black men birthed dandyism – the street style movement that means far more than meets the eye. PAPER Magazine. https://www.papermag.com/howblack-men-birthed-dandyism-the-street-style-movement-thatmeans-fa#rebelltitem5

Why the met gala’s black dandy theme is a moment in American history. Sludge Mag. (n.d.). https://www.sludge.online/whythe-met-gala-s-black-dandy-theme-is-a-moment-in-american-

Breaking rules with Mowalola

Rodgers, D. (2024, September 20). Mowalola Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/mowalola

Mowalola fuses fashion and music in “dirty pop” collection for Spring 2025. SNOBETTE. (2024, September 25). https://snobette.com/2024/09/mowalola-runway-spring-2025/

Rajagopal, M. (2024, September 17). “I feel like a mother”: A quick cig with Mowalola after her SS25 spectacle. Interview Magazine. https://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/a-quick-cig-with-designer-mowalola-ogunlesi at the core of the attico

Runway collection X the attico fashion show SS25: Women lookbook: The attico®. WWW.THEATTICO.COM. (n.d.). https://www.theattico.com/en/brand/collections/runway-thesound-of-breaking-glass/

Black couture: annakiki

Salmorin, J. (2024, September 26). Annakiki S/S 2025: Approaching a techno-natural utopia. Mr Warburton Magazine. https://mrwarburtonmagazine.com/annakiki-s-s-2025-approaching-a-techno-natural-utopia/

Nast, C. (2024, September 21). Annakiki Spring 2025 ready-towear collection. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ spring-2025-ready-to-wear/annakiki

Jtdapperfashionweek. (2024, September 24). Annakiki Spring/ Summer 2025 at Milan Fashion. JTDapper Fashion Week. https://jtdapperfashionweek.com/2024/09/24/annakiki-spring-summer-2025-at-milan-fashion/

Gatekeeping: for all or by all?

Ali, M. (2023, October 24). Gatekeeping: A necessary evil. The Manor. https://scadmanor.com/gatekeeping-a-necessary-evil/#:~:text=I%20asked%20the%20shopkeeper%20 if,Words%20by%20Mishi%20Ali.

Marci, K. (2024, May 22). Why do we gatekeep fashion?. Fashion Is Psychology. https://fashionispsychology.com/ why-do-we-gatekeep-fashion/#:~:text=From%20Rick%20 Owens’%20avant%2Dgarde,then%20modeled%20in%20younger%20generations.

Fernandez, C. (2024, September 25). Op-ed: The end of fashion establishment gatekeepers. The Business of Fashion. https://www.businessoffashion.com/opinions/media/ op-ed-the-end-of-fashion-establishment-gatekeepers/#:~:text=Fashion’s%20gatekeepers%20%E2%80%94%20a%20top%20 tier,brands;%20subscriptions;%20rentals).