Princeton Magazine, Summer 2014

PRINCETON MAGAZINE

SUMMER 2014

SUMMER 2014

THE PINE BARRENS: ANOTHER SIDE OF NEW JERSEY PRINCETON COMMUNITY GROUPS • VINTAGE PRINCETON PICNICS DESTINATION: PHILADELPHIA • READING TERMINAL MARKET AMERICA’S FIRST COUTURIER, CHARLES JAMES AT THE MET PRINCETON REAL ESTATE • KWAME ANTHONY APPIAH

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contents

48

54 28 summer 2014

50

24

12

..... HERE & THERE .....

..... FEATURES .....

Real Estate

princeton real estate: a tale of two towns

Recently sold in the Northeast 16

by panthea reid

BOOK SCENE

An in-depth view of a booming market, both commercial and residential

by Stuart Mitchner

12

Found in translation 20

Top 10

Uncommon princeton citizens for a common cause by anne levin

Reasons for a summer visit to Princeton

Groups that refuse to “look the other way”

28

24

MARK YOUR CALENDAR 36

a tisket a tasket, here comes a picnic basket

destination: Philadelphia

Visions of Princeton picnics past

by taylor smith

30

by ellen gilbert

A Saturday stroll in Philadelphia 48

Charles James Shines at the Met

Active medicine

A master of 20th-century fashion

By Taylor Smith

40

by ellen gilbert

Advice from chiropractor and triathlete Dr. Leonard Ershow 64

in search of delights at the reading terminal market

By Wendy Plump

SHOPPING The writer’s room, 22 Philadelphia fashion, 46 Triathlon, 62 VINTAGE PRINCETON

A rollicking tour of Philadelphia’s most popular tourist destination 50

the pine barrens: another side of new jersey

by jordan hillier

BY LINDA ARNTZENIUS

News legend John W. Chancellor

Excellent adventures in the Pinelands

72

54 ..... LAST WORD .....

ON THE COVER: Art by James

McPhillips at Prince-ton.com and on view at Jane, 7 Spring Street, Princeton, New Jersey.

Kwame Anthony Appiah

by Ellen Gilbert

A conversation with the man who has been called “our postmodern Socrates” 70

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SUMMER 2014 PUBLISHER J. Robert Hillier, FAIA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lynn Adams Smith CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jorge Naranjo ART DIRECTOR Jeffrey Edward Tryon GRAPHIC DESIGNER Matthew DiFalco

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Subscription information: 609.924.5400 ext. 30 subscriptions@witherspoonmediagroup.com Editorial suggestions: editor@witherspoonmediagroup.com Princeton Magazine is published 7 times a year with a circulation of 35,000. All rights reserved. Nothing herein may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher. To purchase PDF files or reprints, please call 609.924.5400 or e-mail melissa.bilyeu@witherspoonmediagroup.com. ©2014 Witherspoon Media Group

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| FROM THE EDITOR

Our cover features a painting of Small World Coffee on Witherspoon Street, by local artist James McPhillips. The original oil painting is on display and for sale at Jane, the consignment shop on Spring Street. In addition to being a painter, McPhillips is also a graphic designer and his cleverly designed Princeton bumper sticker can be seen all over town. The sticker has an illustration of Prince, the pop singer, followed by the letters TON. The cover image is also a salute to the small businesses in Princeton that contribute so much to the character of our town.

Small World Coffee is a small business success story, with dedicated customers stopping by for a daily cup of Joe, a bite to eat, and conversation.

But Small World is also an ideal place for first time visitors to experience the culture and diversity of Princeton. So for that reason, it makes our list of “Top Ten Reasons to Visit Princeton in the Summer,” which you can read about on page 28.

You might be inspired to plan a picnic this summer after reading Ellen Gilbert’s article about picnics of yesteryear, featuring vintage photographs of Princetonians enjoying the outdoors. For a lovely modern day picnic, consider packing an assortment of special cheeses from Olsson’s Fine Foods and rustic bread from the Terra Momo Bread Company. Or head over to Olives for fresh salads, artisan sandwiches, and jumbo chocolate chip cookies. And if you’re planning to picnic at Princeton Battlefield Park, first visit JaZams, to purchase a kite.

If you are looking for a fun, active day trip this summer, you will enjoy reading our article about kayaking and canoeing in the Pine Barrens. The author of this article, Linda Arntzenius, is an expert on the subject and shares an in-depth, personal account of her experience.

This issue is packed with interesting ways to spend your summer days. At the same time, we also have some newsier features.

“Citizens Groups in Princeton” is about various community organizations that work tirelessly for causes such as Save The Dinky, Citizens Against AvalonBay, Princeton Battlefield Park, The Valley Road School Building, Princeton Ridge, and many more. Residents of Princeton care passionately about their town and are outspoken about their battles.

Another informative article in this issue concerns Princeton real estate. Everyone loves to follow real estate in Princeton and now you can read an overview about the local residential and commercial real estate market. Those of us who have lived in this area for a while, see that if you buy wisely, you can profit from real estate.

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Photography by Andrew Wilkinson

Welcome to the summer issue of Princeton Magazine.

I have to smile when I think about the advice a friend of mine received from her father, many years ago; “If you want to make a good investment, buy dirt in Princeton.”

Bob Hillier and I hope you enjoy your summer and this issue of Princeton Magazine.

Many thanks for the continued support from our readers and advertisers.

Respectfully yours,

Lynn Adams Smith Editor-In-Chief

PRINCETON MAGAZINE SUMMER 2014

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PRINCETON REAL ESTATE:

A TALE OF TWO TOWNS

BY PANTHEA REID

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“ in Princeton the residential real estate market’s recovery after the recession is ‘firmly entrenched.’”

– Callaway Henderson Sotheby’s (above) Listing Agent: Colleen Hall, Callaway Henderson Sotheby’s International Realty. 56 Edgerstoune Road, Princeton. $1,795,000

I

’m not writing about Dickens’s Tale of Two Cities, Paris and London during the French Revolution. Nor do I mean the two Princetons, situated one inside the other until citizens voted in November 2011, to consolidate the Borough’s less than two square miles with the Township’s surrounding sixteen square miles. Princeton is now a geographically unified town of almost eighteen square miles. But it is not unified economically. There is a huge divide between the real estate prospects of the have-a-whole-lot and those of the haven’t-so-much. Or maybe this is a tale of three towns: one inhabited by the have-very-little, another by the have-enough, and another by the have-a-wholewhole-lot.

My husband and I are relative newcomers to Princeton, having lived here only thirteen years. We live among the have-enoughs, in a leafy neighborhood, populated by large and smaller houses, with attractively landscaped community housing nearby. Recently, two of the smaller, poorly maintained houses on our street were attacked by a huge swing-loader with a large metal jaw. Looking like a Tyrannosaurus rex on a rampage, it gobbled up those houses. Because they have been replaced by large, tasteful houses, I don’t mind.

A GOOD RATABLE BASE

A market analysis from Callaway Henderson Sotheby’s International Realty affirms that in Princeton the residential real estate market’s recovery after the recession is “firmly entrenched.” The same is true for the commercial real estate market, as Jerry Fennelly of NAI Fennelly confirms. Fennelly writes that over thirty percent of companies in the Greater Princeton area “are planning for fasttracked growth” and office buildings are “a favorable investment among the wealthy, financial institutions, hedge funds and International Markets.” Neal Snyder, Princeton Tax Assessor, affirms that the over fifteen and a half ­percent of Princeton property that is commercial provides “a good ratable base” since it “attracts consumers with money” who do not stay here and hence do not stress the school system and other public services. Since property taxes are based on market value, a booming residential market also benefits the community, enabling it to offer amenities that cash-strapped municipalities cannot. Snyder adds that Princeton University is a good neighbor, paying 8.3 million dollars in taxes.

SUPPLY AND DEMAND

So . . . what’s not to like?

The law of supply and demand works its logic in Princeton, especially in the downtown area. The Callaway Henderson Sotheby’s International Realty analysis shows that the recovery in the residential market is “much more segmented’ now than in the past. Buyers have to search for bargains “at some distance from the town center.” Though they would like “newer or renovated homes within walking distance of a cup of coffee,” such houses are usually near other towns’ centers. The analysis also makes a revealing distinction between houses priced at under and over a million dollars. The average sale price of a Princeton house, priced at one million or under, was $622,537 in the first quarter of 2014, slightly lower (minus less than one percent) from the same period in 2013. However, Princeton houses priced between one and two million dollars have an average price of $1,450,593, up almost ten percent from the same period in 2013. Not only are house prices escalating over a million dollars, but the number of such houses in Princeton is increasing, as is the demand for them. As one realtor told me, the market for upper-end houses is “on fire.”

In fact, sales of houses at over a million dollars have nearly tripled since 2010. And, of the total sales of single-family houses in Princeton in the first five months of 2014, one half the sales are of houses selling at over a million dollars.

Furthermore, days on the market (DOM) have been almost cut in half, from 186 in 2010 to 97 in 2014.

Year Sales

2014 2013 2012 2011 2010

> 1M

33 22 13 16 13

Total Sales % over 1M Avg. DOM

66 50% 97 76 29% 143 57 23% 154 49 33% 134 38 34% 186

[Data provided by Linda Twining of Weichert Realtors.]

summer 2014 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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(above) Listing Agent: Alison Covello, Gloria Nilson and Co. Real Estate. Christie’s International Real Estate. Hopewell, N.J. Price upon request.

(above properties) Listing Agent: Barbara Blackwell, Callaway Henderson Sotheby’s International Realty. Greenview Avenue, Princeton. Five homes available, from $895,000 to $975,000.

These sales suggest that the town may be moving away from its Master affordable housing. Communities retain one-and-a-half percent of contractors’ Plan (available at Princetonnj.gov). The Plan offers an inclusive vision, as building fees to provide “safe and decent” housing for qualified low- and does the non-profit organization called Princeton Future, that fosters diversity middle-income families and individuals and “to promote self-sufficiency in the community, a “mix and balance of uses that crosscut socio-economic initiatives and improve the quality of life and economic stability of its residents.” lines,” especially in the downtown area whose viability, the Plan maintains, Stability, however, is undermined when a family pays more for housing than is “dependent on its mixed-use character and the compatibility it can afford. Federal housing funds, known as HOME grants, have of uses. Residential use, especially in upper floors, is an been cut in half over the last decade, leaving towns and cities to essential component of the central business district.” address housing issues on their own. The Federal Government Sheldon Sturges, of Princeton Future, tells me that some recommends people pay no more than thirty percent of their downtown buildings are zoned as potentially five-story income in rent. But almost a third of New Jerseyans spend establishments for residents. Princeton Planner Lee more than fifty percent of their household income on Solow, though, says such development is not on the housing, leaving less for food, clothing and medicine The stability books, thanks to parking problems and the historical and thus generating instability for these families and of the community nature of some buildings. the community they live in (according to the Princeton Meanwhile, modest homes, especially those near Housing Authority). depends, however, the downtown or the shopping center, are vulnerable Princeton has a good Affordable Housing on it not being as “tear-downs,” replaced by million-dollar houses.

Program, providing separate and diverse living Again, I don’t object to the two tear-downs on options based on income. There are no massive and too exclusive. my street, because the builder replaced them with ugly “projects” with resultant problems of crimes handsome two-story houses and left many trees and drugs. Instead, Princeton Community Housing standing. I am actually pleased to see that another house offers attractive rental units, where rent is priced at thirty on my street is apparently scheduled to be torn down. percent of a household’s gross income. New real estate (It was a place where renters parked in the front yard and developments with affordable rental units include: Merwick feral animals roamed an untended back yard.) Still, the pattern Stanworth, on Bayard Lane, offering 56 out of 326 units as of replacing small houses with mega-mansions does make for less affordable; Copperwood on Bunn Drive, offering 12 affordable units affordable housing in Princeton. out of 153; and AvalonBay’s proposed development of the former hospital site, with 56 affordable units out of 280. Also, Princeton Affordable Housing, AFFORDABLE HOUSING ADVANCES managed by Christy Peacock, enables low- and moderate-income households to purchase their own homes, usually condominiums priced not at market value Under court decisions and legislative rulings known collectively for decades but at twenty-eight percent of the buyers’ gross annual household income, as the “Mount Laurel Doctrine,” New Jersey municipalities must provide some with monthly costs, excluding utilities, also calculated at twenty-eight percent

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of income. Linda Twining of Weichert Realtors lists affordable units for sale.

Residents seem generally pleased, except they’d like more public transportation to community colleges and trade schools. While these real estate programs take some pressure off demand, 2,000 households still remain on waiting lists for affordable housing.

An exception to the Mt. Laurel Doctrine might appear to be the Bespoke Luxury Townhomes, advertised with a Palmer Square, not a Paul Robeson Place, address. These townhouses sell from $1,775, 000; condo flats there sell from $1,230,000; rentals are priced from $4,800 a month. Through a negotiated settlement, the affordable units required under the Mt. Laurel Doctrine are at Hulfish North, dissociated from the “Bespoke” residences.

MAINTAINING COMMUNITY STABILITY

New Jersey’s Department of Treasury lists the state’s most expensive location in 2013 as Alpine Borough, where the average house assessment is $2,697,575.

Alpine’s zip code, 07620, formerly topped Forbes’ list of the most expensive zip codes in the country. Now it places second behind Manhattan’s 10065 zip, where the most expensive house for sale at 40 million dollars hasn’t yet been built. By comparison, the New Jersey Treasury lists the average Princeton house assessment as $799,624 in 2013. That’s an assessment, not a sales figure, but it’s about $691,000 more than the national median price of $108,500 for an existing house, according to Realtor.org. While Princeton real estate is costly compared to the national median, it is modest compared to Alpine real estate and hence offers investment opportunities.

We moved to Princeton to enjoy its beauty, culture, and livability. Others are drawn here by its profitable technical, medical, and pharmaceutical markets, thanks to research and development fostered in particular by Princeton University.

Investors in those markets spend millions on housing here. If current trends in Princeton real estate continue, 08540 might soon place on Forbes list of the country’s most expensive zip codes. That would be a boon to folks selling their houses and for wealthy investors who wish to buy before prices escalate further.

The stability of the community depends, however, on it not being too exclusive. A Princeton University administrator told me that at least seventy-five percent of her staff already resides outside Princeton because it’s too expensive to live here. But the presence of teachers, firefighters, librarians, police, social workers, ministers, community volunteers, and other engaged citizens is vital to the health of our community. Low income workers who cook our food, mow our lawns, and care for our children are also essential to our community. The haven’tso-much cannot afford safe and stable housing among us without government assistance, which is terribly scarce, so ever-escalating prices could precipitate an exodus of middle- and working-class citizens from our town.

A WISE INVESTMENT

In his much-talked-about Capital in the Twenty-First Century, Thomas Piketty warns of dire consequences from ever-widening divisions between the very rich and the very poor. And in the May 26 New Yorker, James Surowieki, writing “Real Estate Goes Global,” focuses on Vancouver, British Columbia, as “the most expensive housing market in North America.” Vancouver’s housing has little to do with “local fundamentals—above all, how much people earn. . . . If there are enough rich people in China who want property in Vancouver, prices can float out of reach of the people who actually live and work there.” Vancouver exemplifies the condition toward which Princeton now is gravitating. Businessman Jerry Fennelly writes that “China sent over 1 million visitors to New Jersey last year (spending an average of $7,000 per visitor).” The Chinese “have invested 12 billion dollars in the US real estate market in 2013, up from 7 billion in 2012.”

Fennelly names other countries which also “consider Princeton a second home by owning real estate here.” Sometimes, such people do not live in their second homes but instead park their money in Princeton real estate, as a hedge against global instability.

As a diverse, vibrant community, Princeton should remain marvelously livable and wisely investable.

SUMMER 2014 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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Sold   Recently IN THE NORTHEAST 15 Van Kirk Road, Princeton, N.J.

Sold: $3,495,000

Graycliff is a magical property, designed with the sensibility of Frank Lloyd Wright’s “Falling Water.” Upon entering the home, you are greeted by two 80 ft. long entertaining galleries. The front façade of the home faces a vast tranquil pond. Italian artisans outfitted the natural pond with stone walls. The property also includes an in-ground swimming pool and tennis court.

Lot Size: 20 acres. Taxes: $36,671. Bedrooms: 4, Bathrooms: 6

4285 Applebutter Road, Bedminster, P.A.

Sold: $1,300,000

Restored fieldstone manor home with banquet dining room, spacious living room, chef’s kitchen, and tavern room with bar and fireplace. There is also a pool, cabana, and comfortable guest house.

Lot Size: 11.58 acres. Taxes: $19,446. Bedrooms: 4, Bathrooms: 1 full bath, 1 half bath

Parc Rittenhouse, Philadelphia, P.A.

Listing Agent: Kimberly Woehr-Kates, Lisa James Otto Country Properties

Sold: $1,550,000

Two bedroom, two bathroom plus den at Parc Rittenhouse with rooms overlooking Rittenhouse Square. The residence features a Joanne Hudson kitchen and baths, hardwood floors throughout, and lots of natural light.

Taxes: $647 per month, Bedrooms: 2, Bathrooms: 2

12 Weatherfield Drive, Upper Makefield, P.A.

Listing Agent: Jay Spaziano, Addison Wolfe Real Estate

Listing Agent: Allan Domb, Allan Domb Real Estate

Sold: $1,950,000

Manor home exudes old world elegance and offers 10,000 sq. ft. of living space. Lot Size: 1.72 acres. Taxes: $27,703. Bedrooms: 5, Bathrooms: 6 full baths, 1 half bath.

Listing Agent: Jay Spaziano, Addison Wolfe Real Estate

The Barclay, Philadelphia, P.A.

Sold: $1,460,000

Corner three bedroom, three bathroom on a high floor of The Barclay with a new custom kitchen, formal living and dining rooms, detailed moldings, and herringbone hardwood floors. Also, dramatic city views.

Taxes: $127 per month Bedrooms: 3, Bathrooms: 3

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Lot Size: 7,405 sq. ft.. Taxes: $14,837. Bedrooms: 6, Bathrooms: 5

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Listing Agent: Jay Spaziano, Addison Wolfe Real Estate

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With a prized location in the Edgerstoune neighborhood, this Princeton classic was built in 1929 and designed by noted New York architect, Ayar Embury. This stone beauty includes five bedrooms, four full baths, and a powder room.

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| BOOK SCENE FOUND IN TRANSLATION

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by Stuart Mitchner

ost, lost, it’s always lost. Nobody talks about being found in translation but isn’t that what happens when the translator is delivering the goods? In winning the 2013 Helen and Kurt Wolff Translator’s Prize for delivering Reiner Stach’s Kafka: Die Jahre der Erkenntnis into English as Kafka: The Years of Insight (Princeton University Press 2013), Princeton resident Shelley Frisch was praised for “finding fresh, compelling, and often witty ways” to sustain the biographer’s voice and “render his German into English.”

Shine a light on that word finding. Every translator embarks on a quest to find the essence of the original. In his quest for the essence of Kafka’s Metamorphosis Princeton University Professor Emeritus Stanley Corngold finds “the gold standard” of Kafka’s masterpiece, as noted on the back of the new Modern Library edition. Another award-winning translator and longtime Princeton resident, Professor Emeritus Edmund Keeley turns the cliché on its head by losing himself in his translations of the poetry of Seferis, Cavafy, and Ritsos on his way to finding the Greek spirit living in the language.

COMIC RELIEF

Getting lost in translation does have its lighter side.

Take Monty Python’s sketch about what happens when John Cleese’s hapless Hungarian tourist, visiting London, attempts to make conversation

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using a phrase book in which everyday expressions in Hungarian have been diabolically matched with English equivalents like “If I said you had a beautiful body, would you hold it against me?” and “My nipples explode with delight.”

While the rogue who concocted the Dirty Hungarian Phrase Book was summarily hauled into a Python kangaroo court, far be it from me to suggest a similar fate for Clara Bell, a tidy, well-meaning early translator of the great sprawling fabulously earthy and untidy prose domain of Honoré de Balzac. It’s as much my fault as hers and Ellen Marriage’s that the Human Comedy was “lost in translation” to me until Penguin released new renderings of Balzac’s major works in the 1970s.

For example, there was the time a search into rarely traveled Balzacian neighborhoods led me to the only available translation of a work that shall remain nameless because I stopped reading it when Clara Bell put the exclamation “Bless my stars” into the mouth of a monster. There he is, the epitome of villainy, a bloodthirsty, scheming, unredeemable ravisher of innocence raging in “the very tempest and whirlwind of his passion,” and out comes “Bless my stars!”

POOH!

A newly translated anthology of stories from The Human Comedy (New York Review Books $17.95) edited and introduced by Princeton University’s Andrew Mellon Scholar Peter Brooks, offers a chance to compare a few of Clara Bell’s word choices with those of a new generation of translators. While my brief survey turned up nothing on the “Bless my stars” level, there’s an instance in the story, “The Red Inn,” when Bell’s translation “A man cannot always be in mischief” becomes in the new version by Linda Asher, “Man cannot spend all his time doing evil.”

Some may say it’s no big deal when “mischief” replaces “evil” in Balzac, but coming upon so tame a word in the sordid interior of this dark narrative is a bit like encountering a fussy throw rug on the bloodstained floor of a crime scene. Then consider Bell’s translation of the story, “Farewell,” where a cigar-smoking, rifle-carrying hunter vents his spleen at one point by going “Pooh!” Judging from the fact that no expletive of any kind shows up at that spot in the new translation

by Jordan Stump or, from what I can find, in the original French, it appears that this “pooh,” including the exclamation point, is Clara Bell’s contribution, another piece of quaint interior decoration to spruce up Balzac’s dark estate.

TRANSLATOR VS. TRADUCER

After reading about the embattled homeowners at the center of Edmund Keeley’s new novel The Megabuilders of Queenston Park (Wild River $14.95), I can see a variation of “lost in translation” in what happens to houses and neighborhoods being crudely wrenched into the architectural equivalent of purple prose or doggerel by builders and developers determined to translate property into money.

During the ordeal that inspired Megabuilders, Keeley was at least able to escape into Diaries of Exile by Yannis Ritsos (Archipelago $15), which he co-translated with Karen Emmerich. For this diversionary adventure he had to assume the persona of a poet who joined the Greek resistance to the Axis occupation and fought in the Greek Civil War, for which he spent years in a detention camp, a confinement the translator and poet in effect contend with together: “There are four walls / I count them / I have five fingers / I count them too.”

It was another sort of adventure for Princeton University’s David Bellos, who traveled back to 1957 and France’s then-sparsely reported military engagement in Algeria to track down Daniel Anselme’s forgotten book On Leave (Faber & Faber $24). As the director of the University’s Program in Translation puts it in his introduction, On Leave had “almost disappeared.” This salvaging of a lost piece of history is dramatic evidence of what can be “found in translation.”

VERMIN VS. INSECT

Keats’s enduring appreciation of Chapman’s Homer (“like some watcher of the skies / When a new planet swims into his ken.”) comes to mind when one imagines the moment the humble translator contemplates the opening sentence of Kafka’s The Metamorphosis. Princeton resident Stanley Corngold is one of the foremost explorers of planet Kafka. Since his Bantam translation has sold

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more than a million copies, it’s safe to say that his version of that famous first sentence prevails, all the more since his Kafka is used in the Norton Critical Edition and now once again in the handsome new Modern Library paperback, with Corngold’s enlightened selection of background material and critical commentary.

The translator’s moment of truth is in deciding what to call the thing Gregor Samsa wakes one morning to find that he’s become. Corngold makes an all but indisputable case for “monstrous vermin” in his introduction, a choice supported in the letters from Kafka written during the time of composition (October-December 1912 and later).

Vladimir Nabokov prefers “a monstrous insect,” as does Susan Bernofsky, except that she cheats by prefacing it with the qualifier “some sort of” in order to, as she says in her January 15 New Yorker piece, “blur the borders of the somewhat too specific ‘insect.’ “ Her rationale is that Kafka “wanted us to see Gregor’s new body and condition with the same hazy focus with which Gregor discovers them.”

Kafka’s next sentence is, however, far from “hazy,” as Corngold’s translation demonstrates: “He was lying on his back as hard as armor plate, and when he lifted his head a little, he saw his vaulted brown belly, sectioned by arch-shaped ribs, to whose dome the cover, about to slide off completely, could barely cling. His many legs, pitifully thin compared with the size of the rest of

him, were waving helplessly before his eyes.”

Moreover, by using “vermin” instead of “insect,” Corngold makes sure that we know from the outset that this is an object so foul that Gregor’s devoted sister hurries to open the window against the stench whenever she enters his room.

The variations on vermin are mentioned throughout the Modern Library edition: bug, louse, millipede, flour beetle, bloodsucking insect, bedbug, giant stage beetle, cock chafer, duncolored house bug; in his notes, Kafka refers to “ black beetle” and the cleaning woman calls Gregor “an old dung beetle.”

In the text I first read, as translated by Edwin and Willa Muir, the word of choice was cockroach, which had serious resonance if you happened to be deep in Constance Garnett’s Dostoevsky at the time.

Thankfully, the publisher heeded the author. If you think of translation purely in terms of imagery, the tangible evidence of the metamorphosis should never be depicted, made legible, seen, or found, to get back to the word we began with in reference to the Translator’s Prize named for Kafka’s first publisher Kurt Wolff and his wife Helen.

TRANSLATION AS IMAGE

In the end, Kafka’s inclination seems to have been to resist giving the thing Gregor Samsa has become a dictionary-specific identity. Among the letters Corngold provides in his “Backgrounds” is the one from the author to his publisher, Kurt Wolff, pleading for an illustration on the title page that avoids showing “the insect itself. Not that, please, not that! ... The insect itself cannot be drawn. It cannot even be shown from a distance.” Kafka goes on to suggest that Gregor’s parents and sister be seen “in the room with the lights on, while the door to the totally dark adjoining room is open.”

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UNCOMMON PRINCETON CITIZENS FOR COMMON CAUSES

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LEVIN

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development; and the Princeton Battlefield Preservation Society, opposed to The Institute for Advanced Study’s plan for faculty housing adjacent to the historic Princeton Battlefield State Park. “A civic group must be as single-minded as those institutions it is opposing in order to be effective.”

Princeton Mayor Liz Lempert finds that the most productive citizen action groups are the ones that do their homework. “The best thing is for a group to be very knowledgeable, to consult with other towns and communities and residents from other places who have gone through similar battles and know what the law is,” she says. “It’s also important for them to know what is possible under the current law, or what specifically needs to be changed.”

Retired Rutgers professor and poet Daniel Harris, a veteran of three citizen groups, might disagree with Lempert’s assessment. “It’s the job of a municipality to operate in such an effective manner as never to need to combat a lawsuit mounted by its citizens,” he says. “It needs to do its own research so citizens don’t have to.

That’s what I’ve learned in the past five years.”

Harris and his wife, Jane Buttars, founders of People for the Princeton Ridge, Inc., were among those opposed to the initial plan for the Copperwood senior housing development on Bunn Drive. Worried about the size of the project, the number of trees to be felled, and stormwater runoff, they were eventually able to persuade architect/developer Bob Hillier to scale the project down from 17 acres to four.

“We think the process was an education for Bob,” Harris says of the architect, “and he was willing to listen to what we had to say. Over a period of time, we got a site plan that was more or less acceptable. We hope there will be some more planting of trees. So that had a happy conclusion.”

Less satisfying was the outcome of 18 months of

work by Harris and other members of the group Princeton Citizens for Sustainable Neighborhoods to change developer AvalonBay’s plans for a 280-unit rental community at the Princeton Hospital site.

Raising $100,000 from donations, the group sued the developer but eventually voted to withdraw the suit, and their opposition to the plan, because of mounting legal bills.

“It was a difficult decision,” says Alexi Assmus, one of the five original PCSN members. “We got significant changes made to the project–some more low income affordable housing, and funds for public art. But we ran out of money for legal fees and we had to stop. We had over 100 donors, but only a few of us had responsibility for the bills.”

Assmus feels the town of Princeton’s legal representation is too conservative in opposing developers. “That’s why citizen groups sue developers,” she says. “I don’t know if that’s the reason we have so many citizen groups here, but elsewhere it seems there is a tougher attitude about development.” PCSN still exists, but is currently “taking a breather,” Assmus says. In the meantime, a second group opposed to aspects of AvalonBay’s plan formed last summer after the town’s Planning Board approved a revised proposal for the project. Known as Association for Planning at Hospital Site, the group has been focused on environmental hazards and safety as well as concerns about the density and bulk of the design.

“When the Planning Board voted to accept the proposal last summer, a group of us began to talk about what we might be able to do to alter what we saw as a regrettable course of action,” says Evan Yassky, an architect and neighborhood resident. “It has been gratifying to collaborate with a diverse group of citizens who, while having individual

(OPPOSITE) Photography by Emily Reeves (THIS PAGE) Images courtesy of Town Topics

hen faced with an issue that threatens their health, safety, property values or aesthetic sensibilities, some people feel powerless and look the other way.

Others might be willing to sign a petition, or maybe write a small check supporting the cause.

Then there is another category, made up of those for whom an issue becomes almost an obsession.

Galvanized by a desire for change, they are the ones who show up religiously at municipal meetings. They hand out leaflets in supermarket parking lots. They canvas their neighbors door-to-door. They do research and write to their legislators. And they organize themselves into citizen action groups, joining forces to challenge public and private institutions they feel are threatening their rights.

Princeton is home to a sizable share of these organizations. Save the Dinky, Princeton Citizens for Sustainable Neighborhoods (PCSN), Association for Planning at Hospital Site (APHS), the Princeton Battlefield Preservation Society (PBS), Walkable Princeton, Save the Princeton Ridge–these are only some of the grass roots groups that have formed, in recent years, to tackle issues ranging from redevelopment to environmental hazards. While their efforts have met with varying levels of success, nearly all have accomplished at least some modicum of change. Along the way, they have learned which methods work.

“When an interest group is too broad-based, and has people involved in too many other activities such as ties to local political organizations, it loses its ability to fight as effectively as it needs to,” says attorney Bruce Afran, who has worked with Save the Dinky, which has sought to keep Princeton University from moving the Dinky train station as part of its Arts & Transit

The new Dinky terminal, right, currently under construction as part of the Arts and Transit development at Princeton University, is 460 feet south of the old station, at left. Among the reasons members of Save the Dinky oppose the move is the fact that the new station is further from Princeton's downtown.

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Shirley Satterfield, a 6th generation Princetonian, speaks at a protest by Princeton Citizens for Sustainable Neighborhoods and members of the SEIU union against AvalonBay at the Princeton Municipal Complex.

Walter W. Gallas, director of the northeast field office of the National Trust For Historic Preservation, speaks from the podium during a press conference in front of the Princeton Battle Monument at Princeton Borough Hall announcing that The National Trust for Historic Preservation named the Princeton Battlefield to its list of America's 11 most endangered historic places.

Henry S. Horn, Princeton University Emeritus Professor of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology, extracts a core sample from a fallen Aspen tree where residents were hiking along the Princeton Ridge around the path for a proposed natural gas pipeline project.

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Images courtesy of Town Topics

This rendering of the AvalonBay rental community planned for the old Princeton Hospital site shows buildings that members of Association for Planning at Hospital Site feel are too large in scale to fit in with the existing neighborhood. The group has additional concerns about safety and environmental hazards during construction.

points of view, are well-aligned towards working to create a better Princeton.” Yassky and other members of the group have spent many evening hours and weekends meeting, researching, and fundraising. Eight of them served as plaintiffs in a lawsuit of AvalonBay, but received an unfavorable ruling and elected not to appeal.

Still, their efforts have not been in vain. “What we’ve done is open people’s eyes to the process,” says APHS member and neighborhood resident Areta Pawlynsky, an architect. “By organizing, we can have an impact.

Individually, we can’t. The question is how things will be improved.”

Members of the group say that without the work the group has done, Princeton Council would not have opted to hire independent environmental consultant Ira Whitman, whose recommendations for more environmental testing at the site were adopted by the Council. “I believe that APHS has changed the dialogue on the AvalonBay project, and beyond that, the way that development is approached,” Yassky says. AvalonBay refused to sign the developer’s agreement calling for additional testing and in May filed suit against the town.

At press time, the developer and the town were still in court.

Anita Garoniak, a Princeton resident who works in pharmaceutical marketing, was one of the original forces behind the non-profit Save the Dinky in 2010.

“We formed when we heard of a push to change the Dinky into a bus rapid transit,” she says. “We started a Facebook page, and got 7,000 people–alumni of the University, neighbors, citizens—to join us, all in opposition to the idea. And it began from there.”

The group has objected to several aspects of the University’s plan for moving the train to a new station 460 south of its former site (the station is currently operating out of a temporary location and a new building is under construction). Lawsuits have been

filed; an appeal and an administrative claim are currently pending. Though a number of their efforts have been met with setbacks, Save the Dinky continues its fight. “It’s not the love of my life, but it’s just hard to sit by and watch things be done like this,” says Garoniak. “What has been accomplished is that we have informed the public about what the real issues are. There was this misconception in the beginning that bus rapid transit was a wonderful, advanced system. But it’s really a bus on a dedicated road, which we really don’t have here.”

The efforts of Save the Dinky, the Battlefield Preservation Society and a group of local residents challenging Princeton University’s tax exemption status have been bolstered by The Eleanor Lewis Fund. This independent entity was established by late Princeton attorney Eleanor Lewis, who died in 2010, to tackle New Jersey-based issues involving abuses of power.

Afran is the legal director.

“She wanted it set up to be able to specifically take on these causes. It has only that one agenda,” he said. “The fund is not involved in the Princeton Community Democratic Organization, Not in Our Town, or any other such organizations. It has no conflicts of interest.

They don’t have to worry about offending anyone. The only focus is taking on abuses of power, and that’s one of the reasons they are effective.”

Community activist Kip Cherry's involvement in Save the Dinky, Save the Valley Road School, and the Princeton Battlefield Preservation Society, among other causes, stems from her interest in the concept of privacy and individual freedom. "That basic concept of freedom relates to everything I'm involved in," she said.

Regarding the Battlefield issue, "It's not just about honoring military battle," she continued. "It's about having a place where people can learn about how the country was started, what makes us unique as

Americans. It's a huge message, extremely important to me personally and to our nation. It's also the opportunity for heritage dollars."

When the Oklahoma-based Williams Company announced plans to extend a natural gas pipeline through an environmentally sensitive, 1.2-mile swath of the Princeton Ridge in early 2013, a group of residents organized the Princeton Ridge Coalition. Starting with a dozen residents, the organization has grown to include 150 on its mailing list, not all of whom live in the immediate area of the pipeline.While they have made progress in resolving several issues related to safety and environmental issues, some serious concerns remain.

The group has often included local government and municipal staff in its monthly meetings with the Williams Company. “We’ve had a significant impact on the kind of questions that FERC [the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission] and the New Jersey DEP [Department of Environmental Protection] have been asking,” says Barbara Blumenthal, president of the group. “These agencies that have a role to play depend on local input in order to do their jobs because they don’t have the resources to know when a company is not doing what they should, or telling them something that isn’t true. So we’ve been able to tell them.”

The Coalition includes engineers, biologists, physicists, and attorneys among its members. “Often times as an elected official, you feel like everyone thinks that they’re an expert,” says Mayor Lempert. “But in Princeton, they really are. We have a lot to learn from our residents and there is a lot they are able to contribute.

“I see neighborhood groups almost always as partners," she continues. "We’re lucky that this is a community where we all feel invested and want the best outcomes.

Sometimes there are differences of opinion as to what that is, but it’s important to listen to people who will be most impacted.”

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Photograph by Dilshanie Perera

| princeton’s top ten

top ten reasons to visit Princeton in the Summer Sip Sangria and Margaritas at Mediterra. The restaurant’s outdoor patio at the base of Palmer Square is the place to relax on balmy summer evenings. As darkness descends, the lights come on around the fountain, a popular and perfect spot for sipping Tony’s refreshing drinks and people-watching.

See a film al fresco at Princeton University’s Art Museum. Once the sun goes down on July 10, a big screen goes up outside the museum on the Princeton campus.

Starting at 8:30 PM, film and art buffs alike can sit under the stars to watch Mark-Making and Abstraction: Painters Painting, a 1973 documentary that is part of the annual Outdoor Film Series. Some of the best-known artists working in New York in the period from 1940 to 1970 are examined in this feature, including Helen Frankenthaler, Robert Motherwell, and Willem de Kooning. Free!

Chow down at Hoagie Haven.

This local landmark at 242 Nassau Street is beloved, especially by those with big appetites. The hoagies are legendary and have been since the 1970s. If you haven’t had fries or mozzarella sticks ON your hoagie, especially late at night (they stay open till the wee hours), you haven’t lived, the purists say.

Fun fact: The original owners, who were from Greece, meant to call the shop Hoagie Heaven, but their command of English was limited at the time and “Heaven” became “Haven.” The name stuck.

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Attend a summer concert at Princeton Shopping Center. The green lawn inside the shopping center on Harrison Street is the place to be on Thursday evenings from June 26 to August 28. Bring a lawn chair or a blanket to hear the best in local and regional jazz, folk, world music, rock, and blues. In case of rain, the concerts move to the Arts Council of Princeton’s pop-up studio in the shopping center.

Rent a bike and pedal the tow path.

Princeton is a cyclist’s town. At Kopp’s Cycle Shop, 38 Spring Street—the oldest bicycle store in the country—or Jay’s Cycles at 249 Nassau Street, the oldest family-owned bicycle store in Princeton—you can rent a Trek or other brand of bike and head over to the historic tow path for a ride under the trees and along the D&R Canal. You’ll meet joggers, birdwatchers, and canoe paddlers along the way.

Rent a canoe or kayak. Princeton’s Turning Basin Park on Alexander Road has a canoe and kayak launch that is the perfect place to start a relaxing paddle onto Lake Carnegie or Stony Brook. What was once a thriving commercial area used to have two turning basins where boats on the D&R Canal could turn around as well as unload. One of those basins can still be seen.

It’s hard to believe this quiet paradise is only a half mile from Route 1.

Ice cream! Princeton is blessed with several ice cream shops that could easily be called “artisanal.” There’s The Bent Spoon at 35 Palmer Square, where ardent fans swear by such delicacies as blood orange sorbet and

olive oil ice cream. Listen to live music Saturday nights from Apil through October around the corner at Halo Pub, 9 Hulfish Street; the more traditional but no less delicious ice cream comes from Trenton’s Halo Farms dairy. And the original Thomas Sweet, 183 Nassau Street, is the creamery of choice for those who are big on blend-ins.

Small World Coffee. The cafe at 14 Witherspoon Street and its sister shop at 254 Nassau Street are local institutions, buzzing with energy at all hours of the day. Among the standouts: NOLA iced coffee, which used to be available only in summer but became so popular that it joined the year-round menu; and the famous Pile Driver breakfast sandwich -- fried egg, bacon and aged Cheddar cheese on an English muffin slathered with garlic butter. As one enthusiastic diner says, “It’s the bomb.”

Landau’s Einstein Museum. It’s hard to believe that the only permanent exhibit devoted to Princeton’s most famous resident, Albert Einstein, is located in a retail store.

But the rear of Landau, the family-owned woolens shop at 102 Nassau Street is the place to see historic photos of the great scientist, at work, at home, playing his violin or relaxing on his front porch.

Croissants at the Little Pastry Chef. Tucked away on Tulane Street, Haitian-born chef Edwige Fils-Aime turns out prized tarts, cakes, and eclairs. But it is the croissants that he bakes each morning that draw the lines of daily regulars, some of whom wait in their idling limousines. You have to get up early, but it’s worth it.

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t , e k s a T a , t e s k i T A s e m o C e Her t ! e k s a B c i c n i P a

by Ellen Gilbert

Photography: Collection of the Historical Society of Princeton

‘pik nik/ noun 1. An outing or occasion that involves taking a packed meal to be eaten outdoors.

“Hey Boo Boo, let’s go get us a pic-a-nic basket.”

—Yogi Bear

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icnics have been around for a long time. The word “picnic” is probably of French origin; the French piquer literally means to pierce with the tip of a sword. No less an authority than the Larousse Gastronomique reports that the word pique-nique, referring to a repas en pleine air, was accepted by the Academy Française in 1740 and “thereafter became a universally accepted word in many languages.”

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Photographs held by the Historical Society of Princeton (HSP) document picnics in Princeton during the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

These are never candid shots. Large and small groups of men wearing jackets and jaunty hats, and women in long skirts have taken a moment away from their fishing, rowing, sack races, and culinary pleasures to mark what was, presumably, a pretty special day.

Although several of the men and boys have given up their jackets and can be seen in shirt sleeves and suspenders at a gathering in Rocky Hill, circa 1906, the two seated rows are clearly posed. It must have taken quite a lot of time—and no small amount of

ingenuity—to place the 100 or more people who attended the Stony Brook Hunt Club Picnic at Tusculum on September 25, 1937. We are not told what prey was hunted, but dogs are on the scene.

Suggest going on a picnic to someone and you’re sure to get a smile.

(Well, almost sure; Harry Truman’s nononsense wife, Bess, is reported to have said, “I’ve liked lots of people ‘til I went on a picnic jaunt with them.”)

Picnics appear to have been a favorite activity of local firefighters in the early part of the last century.

Mercer Engine Company No. 3 is particularly well represented, with several photos, in which some of the men are identified by name, dating back to 1902.

At this time, Princeton had two other fire companies: The Princeton Hook and Ladder Fire Company, founded in 1788, and Princeton Engine Company No. 1, founded in 1794. A relative newcomer, Company No. 3 was founded in 1847.

A historical online account notes that by the mid-1880s, Princeton’s fire companies were well

established social institutions, as each company began to develop its own distinct character.

“Reinforced through sporting and fire tactic competitions, the companies began to develop rivalries that occasionally carried over into their firefighting,” we are told. Picnics and dances gradually became “elaborate banquets and balls,” and their annual shows were reported to be the social event of the season for many.

“WONDERFUL GAMES TO PLAY”*

A particularly photogenic group of men and women gathered in the summer or fall of 1911 for a hay ride and picnic at Roaring Rocks, a boulder field in the Hillsborough Township portion of the Sourland Mountains. The presence of blankets and instruments may account for the uncharacteristically relaxed image of a group of local men in an undated photo. In another photo, a seated couple appear unperturbed by the passing team of “mules or horses” at the D&R Canal.

Another large group shot depicts “Miss Louise C. Wright” and her students from the Mt. Lucas School, which was built in 1874. The presence of croquet mallets and baseball bats in this photo suggest some of the activities of the day, as well as the use of tablecloths at meal time.

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In spite of being described as a “large, modern schoolhouse,” one former student at the Mt. Lucas School later reported that it “was cold as the devil when you went in the morning because the fire was banked at night and we had to start over again.” The one-room school closed 1918 with the opening of the Township Consolidated School on Witherspoon Street.

“WONDERFUL THINGS TO EAT”*

Thanks to HSP’s subject headings, we know that “cake” was definitely among the victuals enjoyed at the Mt. Lucas School picnic. “What Usually Happened on the Old-Fashioned Picnic,” a piece that appeared in the New York Times in May of 1912, helps us surmise what else might have been eaten at those picnics, and by whom it was prepared.

“Eatables were provided by the feminine portion of the party,” reports the author. “A few cold fried chickens, some peanut butter sandwiches, a big paper sack full of Saratoga chips, some potato salad in a fruit jar, two or three kinds of jelly and bread and butter, a couple of chocolate cakes and a coconut cake and a freeze of strawberry ice cream and a few accessories were practically all we expected at a picnic dinner in those days,” he modestly adds.

In her book Science in the Kitchen (“A Scientific Treatise on Food Substances and their Dietetic Properties”) published in the U.S. and England in 1892, the aptly named Ella Eaton Kellogg begins by providing a truly discouraging account of picnics.

Identifying them as an “occasion for a big dinner

composed of sweets and dainties, wines, ices and other delectable delicacies” she regretfully notes “the surfeiting and excess” to which these culinary debauches invariably lead. Adding to the bleakness of the project is the “extra and wearisome labor” involved in preparations for an event that is healthful only by reputation. “Where everything is made subservient to appetite,” she observes, a picnic is actually “one of the most unhygienic things imaginable.” Readers need not despair, however.

Among the book’s “thousand palatable, choice, and wholesome recipes” are instructions for preparing for healthy options like “fig wafers,” and directives about transporting cooked soup, grains, or macaroni” in “sealed fruit cans” that can be reheated on the camp grounds.

(*Henry Hall, “The Teddy Bear’s Picnic,” 1932)

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ACCOUTREMENTS

Advertisements in the digital version of the first ten years of Town Topics give us some sense of how mid-twentieth century Princeton area residents outfitted themselves and equipped their picnics. In July 1953, under the rubric “Hot Weather Needs,” Urken Supply Co. listed a 25-foot garden hose ($1.98); children’s wading pools ($3.98 and up); picnic jugs ($1.79 and up); and “Scotch coolers” ($4.98 and up). Mrs. Kellogg would no doubt have approved of the “fly traps” that were also available ($1.98).

Edible provisions for that 1950s picnic might have come from The Food Mart of Princeton (20 Witherspoon Street), where a 25-pound basket of

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new potatoes would set you back 79 cents; seedless grapes cost 23 cents a pound; and smoked pork butt (“a real summer treat”) could be had for 78 cents a pound. Faithful pooches not allowed to partake of people food could be fed from an 8 cent can of “Cap’n” dog food.

What to wear to a picnic in the summer of 1953?

Male picnickers may have been wearing a nylon, seersucker suit purchased at Elise Goupil (217 Nassau Street), and for the ladies, there were Fruit of the Loom dresses in full and half sizes at S. B. Harris Department Store (32-34 Witherspoon Street).

The lure of picnics has never abated. Area preservationists were hailed in 1973 when a 60-mile

long tract along The Delaware and Raritan (D&R) Canal was declared a state park, where people could “boat, jog, bike, fish, and picnic.” And, when HSP reopened the Updike Farmstead on Quaker Road a few years ago, Executive Director Erin Dougherty hoped that people would “come out, have a picnic, sit, and watch the sunset.”

More recent picnic meals have probably included sliders and corn salsa, washed down by Sangria.

Tee-shirts and flip-flops would be the sartorial order of the day, and lots of sun screen would be applied to big and little arms and legs.

Whether it was 1912, 1953, or 2014, though, we can be pretty sure that a delightful time was had by all.

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| CULTURAL EVENTS

AUGUST 1

AUGUST 9 JULY 2 JULY 1

JULY 30

M A R K YO U R

CALENDAR JULY 25

M U S I C | B O O K S | T H E AT R E | L E C T U R E S | S P O R T S

TUESDAY, JULY 1

TUESDAY, JULY 8

SUNDAY, JULY 13

10AM-5PM “Lee Bontecou: Drawn Worlds” on view through September 21, 2014 at the Princeton University Art Museum. The exhibition spans more than five decades of Bontecou’s career, from her imaginative works on paper to her sculptures of welded steel, canvas, and porcelain. www. artmuseum.princeton.edu.

8PM Former lead singer of 10,000 Maniacs, Natalie Merchant, performs at the State Theatre of NJ in New Brunswick. www.statetheatrenj.org.

8PM The Golandsky Institute International Piano Festival presents a series of six recitals in the Princeton-area over the course of seven days featuring internationally acclaimed pianists and instrumentalists from Russia, Germany, Canada, France, and the USA (through July 19). www. golandskyinstitute.org.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 2 7PM Independence Day fireworks at Princeton University Stadium. For the best viewing, head to the sports fields adjacent to the stadium. Fields open at 7PM for picnicking and fireworks begin at dusk. www.spiritofprinceton.org.

THURSDAY, JULY 3 6PM Start of the Summer Courtyard Concert Series showcasing the best in live music at the Princeton Shopping Center. This summer’s lineup includes The Blawenburg Band, Amazin’ Grace and the Grace Little Band, Celtic Crossroad and more (runs through August 28). www. artscouncilofprinceton.org.

FRIDAY, JULY 4 12-3PM Join Morven Museum & Garden for an Independence Day Jubilee at the home (turned museum) of Richard Stockton. This free event will include historical demonstrations, live music, barbecue, and drinks. www.morven.org.

6-11PM World Yacht at Pier 81 July Fourth Fireworks Cruise along the Hudson River.

Celebrate our nation’s independence with a five-course dinner, open bar, and fireworks, all set against the New York City skyline. www. worldyacht.com.

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WEDNESDAY, JULY 9 7:30PM The Donald Sinta Saxophone Quartet performs at Richardson Auditorium on the campus of Princeton University. www. pusummerchmaberconcerts.org.

FRIDAY, JULY 11 1:30-3:30PM “Hands-On Hydrangeas” gardening workshop at Winterthur Museum, Garden, and Library in Winterthur, DE. www.winterthur.org.

6PM Philadelphia’s own Bacon Brothers (Kevin and Michael Bacon) perform their trademark rock and Philly soul music at the Sellersville Theater in Bucks County. www.st94.com.

SATURDAY, JULY 12 12PM-6PM Tropicana’s Jersey Shore Wine Festival on the Atlantic City Boardwalk. Sample over 300 of New Jersey’s finest wines, available for purchase.

A can’t-miss event for wine enthusiasts. www. tropicana.net.

5 to 8PM Horsedrawn hayrides at Howell Living History Farm in Lambertville. The fun-filled hayrides leave the barn every 25 minutes. Families are also free to enjoy the picnic areas and marshmallow roasting. www.howellfarm.org.

MONDAY, JULY 14 7:30PM The New Zealand String Quartet performs at Richardson Auditorium on the campus of Princeton University. www.pusummerchmaberconcerts.org.

SATURDAY, JULY 19 4:30PM Learn about the famous students, professors and former residents that make this Ivy League town unique. The popular Princeton Tour Company takes visitors to all of the essential sites. www. princetontourcompany.com.

SUNDAY, JULY 20 9AM Eden Autism 5K at Princeton Forrestal Village.

Registration begins at 7:30AM. Proceeds benefit Eden Autism Services. www.edenautism5k.org.

MONDAY, JULY 21 7:30PM The Harlem Quartet performs at Richardson Auditorium on the campus of Princeton University. www.pusummerchmaberconcerts.org.

TUESDAY, JULY 22 8PM James Taylor performs at the Susquehanna Bank Center in Camden. www.camdenwaterfront.com.

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JULY 8

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JULY 25

JULY 20 SEPTEMBER 14

FRIDAY, JULY 25

SATURDAY, AUGUST 2

ALL DAY The Atlantic City Food and Wine Festival. Savor delicious meals and drinks by some of today’s best-known celebrity chefs. This year’s event includess a clam bake with chef Marcus Samuelsson and a southern music festival and BBQ cookout with Robert Irvine (through July 27). www.caesars.com/acfoodandwine.

10AM-5PM Celebrate “everything peach” with Terhune Orchards (also, Sunday, August 3). Enjoy farm fresh peaches and pies from the Farm Market, summer sangrias in the winery, and even peach ice cream! www.terhuneorchards.com.

11AM-9PM Start of the 3-day, WXPN Music Festival on the Camden Waterfront. This outdoor concert is the perfect opportunity to listen to world-class musicians, while relaxing on a picnic blanket.

Beck, Ryan Adams, Band of Horses, and Dawes are just some of the headliners. www.xpn.org.

7:30PM Poetic rocker Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds returns to Philadelphia for a performance at The Mann Center. www.manncenter.org.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 30 4PM The 2014 Newark Black Film Festival’s Paul Robeson Award-Winners are honored at an award-ceremony at the Newark Museum. The ceremony will be followed by screenings of the winning films at CityPlex 12 in Newark. More than 30 films were entered into this year’s competition. www.newarkmuseum.org.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 1 ALL DAY Appetite Festival Main Stage Event at the Count Basie Theatre in Red Bank. Meet Andrew Zimmern, Award-winning host of Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern, and Giada De Laurentiis, author of Everyday Italian, Giada’s Family Kitchen, and Giada’s Kitchen. Over the course of two days, ticketholders will have the opportunity to participate in exclusive seminars, while sampling food, cocktails and craft beers. www.appetitefest.com.

10AM Get the most out of your trip to the Philadelphia Zoo with a tour led by highly-trained docents. Whether you’re interested in the habits of bats or big cats, a guided tour will inform you on nearly any subject. Call 215.243.5235 to make a reservation in advance. www.philadelphiazoo.org.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 7 8PM Grammy-Award winner Kenny Loggins performs at the Bergen Performing Arts Center in Englewood.

Loggins is best-loved for his successful film soundtracks for Caddyshack, Footloose, and Top Gun.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 9 9AM-4PM The New Hope Automobile Show, a showplace for classic automobiles, all competing for the grand prize. Two-hundred and fifty unique vehicles will be showcased each day on the grounds of New Hope-Solebury High School (also, on Sunday, August 10). www.newhopeautoshow.com.

10AM-6PM 2014 Peach Festival and Sidewalk Sale at Peddler’s Village in Lahaska, PA. Enjoy homemade peach treats and amazing sales and discounts from local retailers (also, August 10). www. peddlersvillage.com.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 14 2-9PM Gettysburg Bluegrass Festival’s August Festival featuring performances by Rhonda Vincent, Bobby Osborne, and the Steep Canyon Rangers (through August 17). www.gettysburgbluegrass.com.

7:30PM The world of Fats Waller comes to life in the Tony-Award winning play Ain’t Misbehavin’ at the Bucks County Playhouse in New Hope, PA (through September 7). www.bcptheater.org.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 15 11AM-8PM Summer Sidewalk Sale & Live Music on Palmer Square Green in downtown Princeton (through Sunday, August 17). www.palmersquare.com.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 21 The Barclays’ PGA Tour returns to New Jersey’s Liberty National Golf Course in Jersey City (through Sunday, August 24). www.pgatour.com.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3 7PM Aerosmith performs live at the Prudential Center in Newark as part of their Let Rock Rule tour with special guest, Slash. www.prucenter.com.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13 10AM-5PM Twenty-Third Annual Doylestown Arts Festival in historic, downtown Doylestown, Pa. The two-day event includes live entertainment, original arts & crafts, and delicious cuisine (also, on Sunday, September 14).

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14 1-4PM The Epicurean Palette at Grounds for Sculpture in Hamilton Township. Sample cuisine from the area’s finest chefs, along with a selection of great wines, craft beers, and spirits. Includes a silent auction of art, vacation packages, and jewelry. www.epicureanpalette.org.

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Charles James Ball Gowns, 1948. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast

Charles James Shines at the Met by ellen gilbert

A

new show at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art is reintroducing a master of 20th fashion whose name (until now, at any rate) may be unfamiliar to many: Charles James.

Cristóbal Balenciaga, the Basque designer and founder of the eponymous couture house in Paris, is reported to have observed, “James is not America’s greatest couturier. He is simply the world’s best.” Christian Dior credited James’s work as the inspiration for his romantic “New Look” designs after World War II. The exhibition, which runs through August10 includes over 70 outfits and is the largest show ever devoted to James. Many of the pieces came to the Met by way of the Brooklyn Museum, an early repository for examples of the James collection.

Wintour Time Beyond drawing attention to a relatively unacknowledged fashion great, the exhibition, “Charles James: Beyond Fashion,” marks the reopening of the Museum’s Costume Institute. The refurbished department has also been renamed: it is now the Anna Wintour Costume Center, after the Vogue editor-in-chief/fashion icon whose froideur has earned her the nickname “Nuclear Wintour” (see also The Devil Wears Prada). The $40-million renovation includes a new 4,200-square-foot main gallery named for Lizzie and Jonathan (Loews Corp.) Tisch. It also boasts an updated costume conservation laboratory and expanded study and storage facilities.

Two very separate, very far apart galleries have been used for this exhibition.

The distance between them, which necessitates going up or down a floor and traversing other galleries, seems curious. The lighting in both rooms is minimal, putting the spotlight on the dresses and graphic representations of how they were designed. Viewers may be divided as to which room they prefer: the downstairs Tisch gallery, where jackets and suits take their place along with ball gowns, or the special exhibition gallery on the first floor, where the single focus is gowns. Some may find it hard to resist the urge to grab a coat off a mannequin in the former, and it is interesting to note that James himself said that “my most important contribution was always in tailoring; coats, jackets, wool dresses… so few of which went into the magazines.”

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“ I don’t think that my work has ever been out of date, in that it was only ahead of its time.”

—Charles James

Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978). “Taxi” Dress, ca. 1932. Black wool ribbed knit The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Alan W. Kornberg Gift, 2013 (2013.309). Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis

Precision James’s designs inspire awe with good reason. He used an idiosyncratic combination of sculptural, scientific, and mathematical concepts in creating dresses.

In addition to the dresses and outfits themselves, a unique feature of the show is the graphic visual deconstructions of the creations, showing how each came together, piece by painstaking piece. “I long since gave up the use of the word ‘design,’ thinking that it had no validity; whereas, the word ‘shaped,’ implies an activity which only one’s self could be responsible for,” James, who was not known for his modesty, once observed. Indeed a CT-scan of his 1954 “Tree Dress” revealed 20 layers of material, 146 pattern pieces, hand and machine stitching, and some “very cool” details, like quilting, used to achieve his desired effect. While Charles James was undoubtedly a master of fashion, Henry James-loving exhibition-goers may be caught off guard by the curators’ use of the word “Jamesian” in some descriptions.

Unlike other couturiers, who typically come up with new designs each year, James returned again and again to variations on basic themes. “Year after year he reworked original designs, ignoring the sacrosanct schedule of seasons,” writes journalist Georgina O’Hara.

While they may not have been entirely new, those variations were plenty dramatic. Eroticism ruled. Writer Elaine Louie had the good fortune 40 years ago to serve as a “walker” for James and got to wear one his dresses, a “black silk bias cut dress designed 20 years before that, with short kimono sleeves, a deep V-back and two black streamers that fluttered in the back at the waist, as the breeze blew.” She recalls being “in a state of bliss” wearing “the most beautiful erotic dress.” There’s also subtle sexiness in the 1929 “Taxi dress,” which wrapped around the body and was “fastened with Bakelite clasps, so that a woman could slip into it while in the

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Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978). “Butterfly” Ball Gown, ca. 1955. Brown silk chiffon, cream silk satin, brown silk satin, dark brown nylon tulle. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Fund, 2013 (2013.591). Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis

back of a taxi,” Louie writes. The 1952 “Clover Leaf” dress “did not touch the floor but undulated while the woman walked,” she adds. Although his palette was subtle, the ingenious juxtapositions of different fabrics and textures in the pieces on view at the Met are never less than gorgeous. “It was all about shape and how he could use a garment to change the shape of the wearer by simply manipulating material,” writes Colin McDowell in Business of Fashion. A garment did not have to be luxurious to win James’s approval; he loved wearing jeans, believing that “their functionability pinpoints the sexuality of all human beings engaged in work.”

No Formal Training James was born in Surrey, England in 1906; his mother was from a prominent Chicago family and his father was in the British military.

He attended Harrow and, briefly, the University of Bordeaux. When his family sent him to Chicago in 1924 to work with a utilities magnate, he quickly resigned to open a hat shop, his father’s displeasure notwithstanding. James’s dress-designing career began about three years later when he moved to New York City. One of his first commissions was to create “sporting togs” for the actress Gertrude Lawrence.

His ingenuity was apparent early in his career. “His designs are so timeless that his 1932 culottes (then called ‘wrap-over trousers’) for the New York department store Lord & Taylor were still being sold in the 1950s,” notes one reporter.

An Artiste The disconnect between the acclaim James once received and his relative obscurity today probably has a lot to do with what some would call his “high maintenance” personality. Ironically, perhaps, “James was someone who didn’t care about his

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Gallery View. First Floor Special Exhibition Gallery. Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906-1978). “Clover Leaf” Ball Gown, 1953. Pink silk faille, copper silk shantung, black silk lace with ivory silk. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Josephine Abercrombie, 1953 (2009.300.784). Image: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

“There always was something of the boy wonder about him: a puerile sense of entitlement that did him in, a prodigious imagination that never gave out, and a conviction that he was immortal.”

—Judith Thurman

Gallery View. Anna Wintour Costume Center, Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery. Image: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Charles James with Model, 1948. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast

Charles James Butterfly Gown, 1954. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s

clients,” said Costume Institute curator-in-charge Harold Koda recently. “He didn’t for Mrs. Hearst to wear to the Eisenhower inaugural ball, his business suffered. An effort to combine wholesale manufacturing with custom work in New York City care about his partners, he didn’t even care about his family. He was dedicated ultimately failed. completely to the pursuit of his creative expression.”

“He was a great hater and always ready for a fight,” reportedly observed Sir “Demanding at his best,” observes Judith Thurman in a New Yorker piece about the current exhibition, “substance abuse heightened his volatility.” Among his many Hardy Amies, couturier to the British monarch Queen Elizabeth II, in 1982. James was, Amies went on, the “Pythagoras,” “Michelangelo,” and “Einstein of fashion,” targets were the designer Halston (James accused him of plagiarism) and former Vogue editor and Costume Institute consultant Diana Vreeland (whom he believed as well as “a man who made Caligula seem as open and kind as a Sunday school was ignoring him). James was said to think that the female figure teacher.” James, who was openly gay for most of his life, sprang a surprise when, later in life, he married a rich American woman and was never perfect, and Thurman suggests his zeal to “correct its flaws with a nip and a tuck, an arcing seam, a buckram implant, a fathered two children.

Shuttling between New York and Europe, James designed fabrics cushion of air between skin and cloth diminished his relevance.”

James spent the last fourteen years of his life working from under the patronage of designer Paul Poiret during the mid-30s. His “The Venus de Milo a bedroom/studio at the Chelsea Hotel. His assistant and pattern early circle of supporters included artists Jean Cocteau, Salvador would be most maker during those years recalls receiving $500 from James when Dali and Pavel Tchelitchew. Back in New York City, James created clothes for the Elizabeth Arden Salon during the 1940s. One of his unfashionable unless something was sold, only to have James almost immediately ask for most successful collections was shown in Paris, though, in 1947. half of it back as a loan. Despite what is tactfully referred to as the she had a good Brilliant photography and brilliant design come together in some “reduced circumstances” of James’s final years, he is still regarded dressmaker.”

1948 Cecil Beaton photographs that include a tableau of a ballroom with awe; Thurman begins her recent essay by saying “I have never met any of the lucky women who owned a dress by Charles James.” filled with women wearing evening gowns designed by James.

—CHARLES JAMES The current Met exhibition ensures that more respect will be James’s list of patrons included A-listers like Babe Paley, accorded James in the future. Thurman believes that curator Jan Millicent Rogers, Dominique de Menil, Marietta Tree, Mrs. William Glier Reeder’s catalog essay (“the first reliable chronology of the life Randolph Hearst, and Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney. “Although his artistic perfectionism and conflicted psychological makeup led and the work”) will “astonish” those who know James only through the Beaton photographs, and the daily proliferation of newspaper him to behave erratically and irresponsibly in all areas of his life,” notes the Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, “his clients clamored to be dressed by and magazine articles; websites; and YouTube spots in the days before the show’s opening was noteworthy. Describing the show as a welcome change from the him and went to great lengths to support him artistically and financially.”

The ready-to-wear environment of the 1950s, however, was not congenial to a Costume Institute’s earlier “pop culture” efforts, writer Ashley Simpson lauded it as perfectionist with a short temper. Although he created some of his most fabulous “a lesson in the underappreciated, indeed.” gowns during those years, like the “Abstract” or “Four-Leaf Clover” gown made

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| PHILADELPHIA FASHION DRESS: Nicole Miller ‘Jessi’ regal dress, $550; visit Nicole Miller at The Bellevue for the collection, 215.546.5007 SUNGLASSES: Claire Goldsmith ‘Begbie’ sunglasses, price upon request; Modern Eye Philadelphia, 215.922.3300 SCARF: Tory Burch embellished scarf, $225; toryburch.com

BRACELET: Ippolita ‘Wonderland’ sterling and mother-ofpearl bangle set, $1,895; Neiman Marcus King of Prussia Mall, 610.354.0500 SHOES: Aquazzura strappy suede sandal, $695; Boyds Philadelphia, 215.564.9000

Product selection by Gina Hookey and Kendra Russell

CLUTCH: Diane von Furstenberg envelope clutch, $265; Bloomingdale’s King of Prussia Mall, 610.337.6300

WATCH: Ebel 18k rose gold & diamond ceramic watch, $7,900; Govberg Jewelers Philadelphia, 215.546.6505

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By Taylor Smith

ummer is a great time to enjoy the many cultural attractions, fine food, and parks available in Philadelphia. Located approximately one hour from Princeton (two hours from Manhattan), Philadelphia is the perfect place to wile away a weekend. In addition to the suggestions below, there’s always the opportunity to watch a Phillies game at Citizens Bank Park. Better yet, schedule your trip around Independence Day to view the spectacular Fireworks Celebration at Penn’s Landing on the Delaware River Waterfront.

9AM: Begin your day with a leisurely walk along the Schuylkill Banks, located in the heart of Philadelphia. The paved trail is 1.2 miles long.

You can also kayak or canoe the tidal Schuylkill by heading up river towards the Fairmount Dam to enjoy views of the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the city skyline. After disembarking, enjoy the works of Auguste Rodin at the Rodin Museum, an outdoor sculpture park, located on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. The Barnes Museum (also located on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway) houses one of the finest collections of post-impressionist and early Modern paintings with works by Matisse, Rousseau, and Modigliani, among others.

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11am: Breakfast is available all day at Mile’s Table, located at 1620 South Street. The place is a comfortable and casual spot for a sausage and egg brioche or a whitefish bagel. Another great brunch option is Green Eggs Café. They have three locations in Philadelphia, including South Philly, Northern Liberties, and Midtown Village. You will find everything from breakfast burritos to biscuits and gravy on the menu.

1pm: While you are in Philadelphia you might be interested in taking-in a little history and the Independence National Historical Park (INHP) is a good place to start. Here, National Park Rangers will lead you on a guided tour of Independence Hall, the building where the Declaration of Independence was signed and adopted on July 4, 1776. The tour begins in the Court Room and travels to the Assembly Room, which is arranged just as it appeared for the Constitutional Convention. Lastly, view the West Wing, which contains the original inkstand used to sign the Declaration, along with an original draft of the Constitution.

Adjacent to INHP, Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell has become a universal symbol of freedom throughout America. The bell was first hung in the steeple of the Pennsylvania State House and immediately cracked after being rung. Historically, the bell was rung to summon lawmakers to legislative sessions and to alert Philadelphia’s citizens to public meetings and announcements.

Image courtesy of Shutterstock.com

a Saturday stroll in Philadelphia

Image courtesy of Shutterstock.com

(above) Philadelphia Museum of Art, view from the Schuylkill River. (below) Rodin Museum; The Liberty Bell

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destination: philadelphia | Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts

Image courtesy of Yelp.com

Talula’s Garden

Image courtesy of Shutterstock.com

Image courtesy of The Barnes Museum

Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

The Barnes Museum

Independence National Historical Park (INHP)

3pm: During the 1850’s, Rittenhouse Square was the most fashionable and wealthy area in the city, populated by successful businessmen, politicians, and socialites. In 1913, French born architect Paul Philippe Cret contributed to a re-design of the park (he also aided in the design of Philadelphia’s Rodin Museum and the Benjamin Franklin Parkway) with classical urns, large planter beds, a reflecting pool, and a balustrade ringed by a circular walkway. More than any other square, Rittenhouse functions as a neighborhood park. During the summer, there are regular flower markets and outdoor art exhibitions.

After a stroll through the park, partake in the great shopping along Rittenhouse Row, which is brimming with select national retailers and upscale boutiques.

8pm: World Café Live is a relatively upscale music venue, located at 3025 Walnut Street. They host an eclectic lineup of musicians almost every night of the week. They are also proud sponsors of the WXPN Music Festival, which takes place on the Camden Waterfront every summer and attracts international artists. This year’s lineup includes Beck, Ryan Adams, Dawes, and more. The 3-day festival will be held from July 25 through 27. For a complete event-lineup and ticket information, visit www.xpn.org. View the line-up at World Café at www.philly.worldcafelive.com. Another evening possibility is to take in a show at the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts. The Philadelphia Orchestra will perform at the Kimmel Center between July 23 and 26 and The Book of Mormon runs from July 29 through September 14.

6pm: You can dine outdoors at Talula’s Garden, located at 210 W. Washington Square. The menus include creative and seasonal farm fresh food. They also have an entire menu devoted to cheese and a very lengthy dessert menu. Another dinner locale that offers outdoor dining is Zavino, located at 112 S. 13th Street in Midtown Village (they have a second location in University City). Zavino’s is recognized as a wine and pizza restaurant, but they also serve homemade pasta and vegetable dishes.

Image courtesy of Yelp.com

4pm: Parc Restaurant Bistro & Café in Rittenhouse Square recalls the chic bistros of Paris with plenty of drinks and sidewalk seating. Ideal for appetizers and drinks or a leisurely meal, the menu includes classic items like onion soup, escargots, and steak frites. Also, the baguettes are made in-house and are the perfect accompaniment to a glass of wine and the charcuterie platter.

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hat exactly is a burdock root?

For that matter, what do you do with an emu egg, or yellow carrots? And since we are on the topic, how do you “French” a London broil, can you put beef jerky in a blender, and what sort of meal would you make out of stinging nettles?

There are many ways to answer these pressing questions. But it is more fun posing them. The very best place to do both of these things, and many others besides, is the historic, rollicking, inspiring, 122-year-old, variegated, festive, processing-difficultyinducing Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia.

I had not visited in years, which seems almost shameful for a Bucks County girl. So in early May I decided to see why the Market is Philadelphia’s most popular tourist destination, with 6.4 million visitors last year alone. Not even the National Constitution Center just down the street can lay claim to such numbers, and it’s got the Liberty Bell.

Depending on how you define markets, Reading Terminal is the oldest continuously-operating food market in the country. Its antecedents go all the way back to the late 17th century. It is generally understood that there are only two worthy rivals on the continent – Seattle’s Pike Place Market, and the Granville Island Public Market in Vancouver. Apart from these, the Reading Terminal Market stands alone.

Since I am not a foodie and would be ill-advised to make anything in the kitchen except ice cubes, I called on my childhood friend Christine Giles Hutkin, and invited her along one morning to investigate with me. Hutkin is a food blogger and a cook in Bucks County, and years ago operated

Jacqualin et Cie cooking wares shop in Lahaska, Pa. with her mother Jackie Giles. She knows her way around the Market. “I am in frigging heaven,” Hutkin said not three minutes after we arrived.

There is only one way to do the Reading Terminal Market, she explained, and that is the simplest: Plunge right in. Pick a door and walk through it. It hardly matters how you get inside, as you will be rewarded with an onslaught of delights at every turn. One corner will present a dazzling array of pickles in standing barrels of brine. Another, a raw bar groaning with oysters, shrimp and mussels. Still another, the most astonishing assortment of produce you will see this year, at a stall bursting with mangoes and peppers and greens enough to make a goat swoon.

Go early, and plan to stay awhile. There is enough at the Market to occupy several hours’ worth of drooling and craving, and no end of meals to dream up with the seduction of all that food.

APPROACH WITHOUT CAUTION

“The Market is best approached as a personal experience of discovery no matter which door you enter,” said Paul Steinke, the general manager since 2001. “I think there is something to the element of surprise and delight as you round a corner and see something you haven’t seen before. This is one of the core appeals of the Market.”

Laid out like a grid of streets and avenues (look up to see the street signs dangling above for orientation), the Market has 77 full-time vendors and a handful of part-timers. They offer everything from tripe to cheesesteaks to cookbooks to fish heads to chicken & waffles (that’s one entree) to

chocolate to flowers to lavender-scented whoopee pies. (I tried them. They are righteous.) And they do it in a national landmark building that has been a venue for city laborers and residents since 1892.

That is when the Market was established at its current site.

Philadelphia’s original public market sprouted up on Front and High (now Market) Street in the 1680s, when farmers and fishermen from southern New Jersey gathered there to sell their wares. By the 1790s, the gathering had evolved into a string of food sheds, or “shambles,” that ran down the center of High Street. It was not until 1860 that the Butchers’ and Farmers’ Market officially opened indoors in the 1100 block of Market Street. When the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad Company bought the block in 1890 to consolidate its four terminals, the farmers pushed back. They refused to vacate the spot. So the railroad agreed to build the Market beneath its train shed and tracks. It has occupied the block ever since.

The non-profit Reading Terminal Market Corporation was established in 1994 to manage the site. It has an operating budget of just $4.5 million, with annual gross sales of between $45 and $50 million.

“The Corporation was created to preserve the site as an urban farmer’s market, where country meets city. We are mission-driven, not financially driven.

In leasing, our first priority is given to local and regional foods,” explained Steinke. “We are popular with tourists. But we think that’s because we cater to the local market and local tastes, and therefore draw local shoppers. Tourists find that fascinating because they see it as a genuine experience.”

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PLAY WITH YOUR FOOD

Trotting along behind Hutkin that morning at the Market, I had the sensation of learning a new language, or at least a new way of seeing food.

Produce as possibility. Food as creative expression.

It was the kind of experience you can only have when there is so much bounty and diversity spread out before you that the most inventive impulses come into play.

We lingered, for instance, in front of the glass cases at the Golden Fish Market (B11). My eyes took in the assortment of boneless shad, smelts, cooked crawfish the color of a bayou sunset, Chesapeake oysters, and fish heads for bouillabaisse.

“I would recommend that anyone do a walkthrough before buying anything,” said Hutkin.

“That’s how I approach any market I don’t know, and I’ve been to a lot of markets here and in Europe.

I talk to the vendors because they always want to talk about their food. The cheese, the fish, the breads. They say, ‘What are you looking for?’ and they’ll make suggestions.

“Sometimes I’ll have a purpose in mind when I come here. But I really like to just go and see what is freshest, like these prawns. Look at them! You only get eight in a pound. Look how big they are!

You can’t get these in grocery stores. How much are

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the prawns?” she said, leaning boldly into the counter. Hutkin has learned to make herself heard.

That is not a necessity at the Market so much as a good excuse to be loud.

We stopped in next at Kauffman’s Lancaster County Produce (B9). Most of the Market’s northwest corner is devoted to the Amish, with bakeries, farm-raised poultry and pork, milk and cream, hot pretzels, and smoked and cured meats.

Hutkin picked up a jar of fig jam. I was mystified.

She had already decided how to use it, it was going on crostini, with a dab of goat cheese, “and maybe a basil leaf on top.”

The Hatville Deli is close by, too (A9). Hutkin’s eagle gaze was drawn immediately to the array of meats, the scrapple and the homemade jerky, and the sousse. Again, I drew a blank.

“This is a real Philly staple,” Hutkin said, miffed at my ignorance. “Where do you get sousse except in Lancaster County? It’s the ham meat and the fat and the gelatin all pressed into a loaf. Here, try a piece.” She loved the taste of it. I recoiled in horror, and instead took my vegetarian sensibilities over to the Four Seasons Juice Bar (A6) for a restorative shot of wheatgrass.

But that is the joy of the Reading Terminal Market. There truly is something for everyone.

Venturesome tastebuds are rewarded at Keven Parker’s Soul Food Café (A5), Nanee’s Indian-Pakistani Kitchen (C4), or Olympia Gyro (A8). The more conventional, not to say loyal, customers go straight to market stalwarts like Dinic’s hot roast beef and pork (B5), the Famous 4th Street Cookie Company (A2), or Old City Coffee (A3 and C12).

There are nearly 25 takeout stalls and restaurants at the Market along with the produce, meat, seafood and poultry, and grocery vendors. The morning we visited, it looked like an entire bleacher of Eagles fans had emptied out in front of Spataro’s Cheesesteaks (C7). The Mezze Mediterranean Foods (B6) offered sandwiches as big as my laptop.

And the Fair Farm Foodstand (A9) had a run on ramps, those oniony-garlicky greens that appear only in the early spring. One 50-ish gentleman gently shouldered us out of the way to get at them.

“I got an email that the ramps were in!” he offered by way of apology. I asked him what he was going to do with his allotment, a bursting bag of green stems and tiny white bulbs. He said he would cook them up with some fried brussel sprout leaves.

I invited myself to dinner.

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FOOD AS PHILOSOPHY

“I think for the last few decades since the TV dinner was invented, the family meal has not been as important. Look at all the processed food sold in this country,” said Hutkin, waxing philosophic as we sat together over thick falafel sandwich from Kamal’s Middle Eastern Specialties (A7). “I don’t buy anything in a box. I make everything from scratch because I think that’s how you should eat.

“If I’m buying vegetables, I want to talk to the farmer who grew them. If I’m going to eat beef, then I want to eat beef that’s breathing the same air I’m breathing. If I’m going to roast a chicken, I don’t let any of it waste. None of it. That’s how our grandparents ate, and they didn’t have the same health issues.”

This is more than just artisanal food as trend. This is food as health, food as medicine, food as familial tradition. All told, it is this philosophy and the rituals that surround it that make the Reading

Terminal Market as singular as it is.

“This is a fun place. And the reason why is that the days are never the same. I walk in the door and I never know what I’m going to find. In that respect, it keeps things interesting. You’re very stimulated, all the time,” said Charles Giunta, who has run Giunta’s Prime Shop (C2) since 1995. All told, Giunta has been a butcher for 45 years, running another shop at the market prior to Giunta’s and working in the trade since he was 10 years old.

“I think people should come down here with the idea of spending some time in the market,” Giunta added. “We have our regulars. They come in on Saturday morning, and, boom, boom, boom! They’re done. But for the rest, come in with the idea that you want to shop and leave time for that. Because you could have conversations with 20 different vendors in one morning. If you do it that way, you’re going to have a good feeling, and you’re going to appreciate the way we do things here.”

So after getting Hutkin’s London Broil “frenched”– cut wafer thin–at Giunta’s, we sauntered past more stalls. I fired off questions at Hutkin. Picking up red beets, I asked what she would do with them. Roast them and throw them in a salad with goat cheese, was the answer. Pork Roast? Butterfly it and cover it with provolone and proscuitto; then sauté swiss chard and garlic, and roll it all up. Jicama? Slice it thin on a mandoline and roast the chips with a little salt and olive oil. That emu egg? Make a huge omelette with it. A simple lemon? Use the zest to make lemonade so that you do not need as much sugar.

It may be hyperbole, but the Reading Terminal Market can be transforming. There are nearly 80 vendors ready to explain why in terms both homey and authentic. The proof is an offer to all. Before I left the Market that morning, I bought a bag of stinging nettles and an emu egg. It seemed like the beginning of something.

THE READING TERMINAL MARKET IS LOCATED AT 12TH AND ARCH STREETS IN PHILADELPHIA, PA. IT IS OPEN FROM 8AM TO 6PM MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY; 9AM TO 5PM SUNDAY. SPECIAL, TWO-HOUR PARKING FOR $4 IS AVAILABLE TO MARKET PATRONS. THE MARKET WEBSITE INCLUDES LISTINGS FOR MARKET EVENTS, COOKING CLASSES, TOURS, AND VENDOR INFORMATION. MAPS OF THE MARKET ARE AVAILABLE AT ANY OF THE ENTRANCES, AND THROUGHOUT THE FLOOR.

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by Linda Arntzenius // photography by Richard Speedy // Snapshots by the author

THE PINE BARRENS: ANOTHER SIDE OF NEW JERSEY

For outdoor adventure in New Jersey, few settings rival the Pine Barrens. Covering over 1 million acres, or 22 percent of the state, this is an ancient and unsullied land of breathtaking diversity. Less than two hours south of Princeton, visitors can boat, hike, cycle, canoe, fish,

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horseback ride, camp, explore old abandoned towns, or simply enjoy the otherworldly beauty of a quiet, pine-filled forest.

Dozens of tucked-away rivers, creeks, and lakes of cedar-tinted water make the Pine Barrens a dream spot for canoe and kayak enthusiasts.

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“I’d forgotten just how magnificent this area of New Jersey is, with pristine nature to delight every sense.”

W

hen I first moved to Princeton from California, all I knew of New Jersey was that it was “The Garden State.”

While Princeton and environs lived up to this description, the rest of New Jersey, seen mostly from the window of an N.J. Transit train, did not. Until I discovered the Pinelands, an area of unspoiled nature unique in flora and history almost the size of Yosemite National Park.

From a rented cottage on Snowden Lane, I had found my way around town and explored the picturesque villages along the Delaware and Raritan Canal. It was time to venture further afield.

Studying a map of New Jersey, I found a dot for Quaker Bridge smack dab in the middle of an area of green and yet close enough to Route 206 South that it would be easy to find. The name sounded promising, both historical and rural. Surely there’d be an inn or wayside tavern where we could lunch and perhaps even board for the night after a day of hiking and discovery.

No spoiler alert necessary. Suffice it to say that what my small family found at Quaker Bridge was just that, a bridge. No inn, no tavern, barely even a road. But the water that ran below the bridge had the color of good strong tea and it was crystal clear. I fell in love with the Pine Barrens that day and discovered why it holds such an attraction for birders, kayakers, canoeists, historians and just plain ramblers like me.

This is a place where nature and history intertwine. At Quaker Bridge, numerous sandy tracks lead off into the forest—miles of forest.

Some lead to rivers, others to inexplicable

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clearings, perhaps spots where charcoal was once made.

It’s easy to get lost here. And easy to get spooked with tales of the Jersey Devil, the horned and winged monstrosity said to have originated as the 13th child born to a local family in the 18th century. “Mother Leeds” is supposed to have cursed her child’s arrival and it was born with a tale, hooves, a goat-like head, and leathery wings. The legend might go back even further, however, to tales of the Lenni Lenape, who

called the area “place of the dragon.”

Place names in the Pine Barrens indicate a rich history of Quakers, Huguenots, Native and African Americans, English, Irish, German, and Scots: Hog

Wallow, Jenkins, Mt. Misery (Miséricorde), Indian Mills, Speedwell, Chatsworth. It has long been a place of isolation and refuge and today it’s a rich resource of solace and solitude as well as a playing ground for families seeking outdoor adventure. And all within an easy drive from Princeton. One of the best ways to enjoy the Pine Barrens is a canoe trip on one of the many meandering tributaries to the Mullica River.

THE WADING RIVER

It’s a glorious late spring day. Fluffy clouds dot a bright blue sky. It’s not too hot and there are no pesky mosquitoes. The river is swollen from recent rains so our wide-bottomed canoe with three adults aboard will have plenty of draft and there will be enough action for the single light one-man kayak to make it fun.

It has been several years since I’d canoed in the Pines and even with fond memories of lazy paddles on several lakes and rivers, I’d forgotten just how magnificent this area of New Jersey is, with pristine nature to delight every sense.

Our party of four arrives early at our put-in place on the Wading River at the bridge on Route 563 just south of Mick’s Canoe & Kayak Rental and are on the water by 9AM. It’s still cool and as we paddle along and the temperature rises, the air takes on the scent of cedar.

There are no sounds but birdsong and water, alternately lapping the sides of the canoe or tinkling over the rocks. We drift along with the current or paddle to avoid the sand banks or any number of obstacles usually encountered on river trips—here

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(this page) photographs courtesy of linda arntzenius

(Clockwise from top-left) Phillip E. Gantner, Michael Arntzenius in the canoe and Paul Gantner in the kayak; sandy bank on the Wading River; Marilyn Schmidt, owner of the Chatsworth General Store; The Chatsworth General Store, known locally as “Buzby’s.”

and there a submerged log, the pilings of a long-gone bridge.

While there are plenty of opportunities for kayaking rivers that twist and turn, we have chosen a part of the Wading River guaranteed to provide lots of leisure, with places to stop for bathing, hiking, picnicking and plain daydreaming. There’s just enough current to keep it interesting and plenty of sandy banks on which to pull in. For serious hikers, the Batona Trail runs almost 50 miles through the Wharton State Forest, the largest single tract of land within the State Park System. Today, however, we are satisfied with picnicking, reading the good books we’ve brought along with us, and practicing our photographic skills.

The play of sunlight on tea-colored water is designed to relieve stress. Its reddish brown color comes from tannic acids in the Atlantic white cedar and from naturally occurring bog iron that once formed the basis of a thriving industry here.

Batsto Village was an industrial center for iron and glassmaking from 1766 to 1867.

On this trip, our guide is a friend who knows these rivers well, having grown up in Hammonton (the blueberry capital of the world according to the sign by the side of the road) and worked summers for one of the many outfits that offer rentals to visitors. Just returned from California, Paul is eager to renew his acquaintance with the little rivers of the Pinelands. “If you travel quietly, you’re bound to come face to face with a deer sipping from the stream; along the banks you might see snakes sunning themselves and you are sure to see turtles,” he tells us from the kayak. We do.

But it is a turkey rather than a deer that startles us, standing motionless and staring at us as we go by.

Other wildlife to watch out for in the Pines are bald eagle, varieties of hawk, osprey, great blue heron, owls, bluebirds, hummingbirds, purple martins, goldfinch, beaver, river otter, and fox. But no bear.

The Pine Barrens exudes the aura of an ancient land, time seems to stop here. One feels that one might encounter some Lenni Lenape around the next bend. There is no rush, no bustle. Except in high season, one can spend an entire day on the river without encountering anyone at all. For peace and tranquility it would be hard to find a better spot.

We picnicked on a sandy bank just a couple of miles before Bodine Field Camp and then carried on to our pull out at Beaver Branch. The sandy soil of the Pine Barrens covers a natural aquifer, an underground reservoir of pure sand-filtered water that supports New Jersey’s blueberry and cranberry industries and provides drinking water for hundreds of thousands. It’s said that if these estimated 17 trillion gallons were above ground, the entire state would be a giant lake about ten feet deep.

Although we had journeyed no more than two hours from Princeton, it was like visiting another world. On our way home, we stopped in at the historic Chatsworth General Store, or Buzby’s as it is known, now owned by Marilyn Schmidt, a noted author of books on seafood cookery.

Built in 1865, the store was owned from 1894 until 1939 by Willis Jefferson Buzby, called the King of the Pineys, who passed both store and title to his son, Willis Jonathan Buzby. It features in McPhee’s seminal 1967 study of the area’s unique ecology and history, The Pine Barrens. It was reading this book that prompted New Jersey State Governor summer 2014 PRINCETON MAGAZINE

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(TOP) Stopping at Bodine Field Camp en route; (BOTTOM) The characteristic cedar water of the Pinelands.

CANOE AND KAYAK OUTFITTERS Two vehicles were needed for this trip; one to drop us off and one at the end of the trip to pick us up and return us to the starting point. We had our own canoe and kayak, but for visitors there are numerous outfitters from which you can rent. When water levels are low, you may have to portage over sandbars; obstacles such as fallen trees add a sense of adventure. Canoe-rental firms are a good source for local conditions before you go. Always wear life vests for every member of your group, and don’t forget one for the dog too.

For the Mullica and Batsto Rivers Adams Canoe Rental, 1005 Atsion Road, Vincentown, N.J. 08088; 609.268.0189; Bel Haven Canoes, Kayaks & Tubes, 1227 Route 542, Green Bank, N.J. 08215; also serves the Wading and Oswego Rivers; 609.965.2205 For the Maurice River Al and Sam’s Canoe and Boat Rentals, 2626 West Weymouth Road, Newfield, N.J. 08344; 856.692.8440 For Cedar Creek, Double Trouble State Park Cedar Creek Campground Canoe and Kayak Rentals, 1052 US Highway 9, Bayville, N.J. 08721; 732.269.1413 For the Oswego and Wading Rivers, and Oswego and Harrisville Lakes Mick’s Pine Barrens Canoe & Kayak Rental, 3107 Route 563 (Jenkins), Chatsworth, N.J. 08019; 609.726.1380

Brendan Thomas Byrne to step in and thwart planned development that would have included a new city, a jetport, and an industrial park.

(THIS PAGE) PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF LINDA ARNTZENIUS

OTHER TRIPS

The Batsto is one of the least traveled and therefore quietest rivers of the Pines. It’s my personal favorite. If you put in at Quaker Bridge you can paddle all the way to Batsto Lake and historic village, about 4 hours downstream, with lots of swimming holes en route. You can also put in at Hampton Furnace farther north but then it’s an 8 to 10 hour trip.

The closer you get to Batsto, the wider the river becomes, eventually turning into a shallow marsh and lake (formed by a dam before a small stream finally connects the Batsto to the Mullica), and it can run challengingly low in summer, when it can also be busy with scouts and other groups served by a rental outfit in Atsion (pronounced at-sign, by the way).

Atsion Lake borders Route 206 in Shamong and offers camping as well as water activities. Its accessibility can make it very busy at times. At half a mile wide and a mile and a half long, it takes a little over two hours to paddle the perimeter.

The Oswego is our guide Paul’s favorite, a beautiful scenic river and ideal for canoeists since you can both start and end at a lake. The trip from Oswego Lake in Chatsworth just off Route 563 South to Harrisville Lake off Harrisville/ Chatsworth Road takes about four hours with lots of spots for picnicking and swimming.

Wherever you go in the Pinelands, you will find water so clear and clean that just floating along is tantamount to a thirstquenching drink on a hot day. As McPhee said, “The picture of New Jersey that most people hold in their minds is so different from this one that, considered beside it, the Pine Barrens, as they are called, become as incongruous as they are beautiful.”

For the Mullica, Batsto, Wading, Oswego Rivers Mullica River Boat Basin, 1118 Route 542, Egg Harbor, N.J. 08215; 609.965.2120 For the Wading River Wading Pines Camping Resort, 85 Godfrey Bridge Road, Chatsworth, N.J. 08019; 888.726.1313 For more information, visit: www.pinelandsalliance. org/exploration/todo/canoeing/ For more on photographer Richard Speedy, visit: www.richardspeedyphotographer.com.

RECOMMENDED READING The Pine Barrens by John McPhee (Farrer, Strauss & Giroux, New York, 1967) Pine Barrens Legends & Lore by William McMahon (Middle Atlantic Press, Moorestown, N.J., 1980) Canoeing the Jersey Pine Barrens by Robert Parnes The Globe Pequot Press, Old Saybrook, Conn., 1978) Exploring the Little Rivers of New Jersey by James and Margaret Cawley (Rutgers University Press, New Brunswick, N.J., 1993) Voices in the Pines: True Stories from the New Jersey Pine Barrens by Karen F. Riley (Plexus Publishing Inc., Medford, N.J.)

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| active medicine Advice From Chiropractor and Triathlete Dr. Leonard Ershow

S

By Taylor Smith

peak about your experience competing in triathlons.

I initially got interested in triathlons in the early 1980s while watching the Ironman World Championships on TV. From that time I always harbored a desire to test myself physically, emotionally and mentally. It seemed triathlons offered that opportunity. In 1987 I was hit by a car while riding my bike and it changed my ability to run effectively for several years. In 2003 I had the opportunity to work the Ironman World Championships. The athletes, especially the physically challenged athletes, inspired me so much, I decided to get off my overweight butt and start getting in shape. I chose to use the goal of training for an Ironman.

I was out of shape and overweight. I had no idea how to train. However, I was lucky enough to find a world class coach while I was at the Ironman in Hawaii.

That started an incredible journey toward competing in triathlons. I initially started with the idea of just finishing my first triathlon and going from there. I am a type A personality, so that goal shortly fell by the wayside and actually competing became my goal.

For me, competing was a mix of multiple experiences.

Once the race starts all the anticipation, fear and anxiety disappear for me. When I am racing well, I am totally in the moment. I usually experience thoughts like “I can’t believe I am actually doing this” or “What a gorgeous sunrise, the water feels great, I am so lucky.” Those races still contain the moments of physical discomfort, but I am able to focus on the whole experience. There are also races which are more physically and mentally challenging. Those races can feel longer than the actual time registered on the time clock.

The end of a race is always a welcome event. They are almost always accompanied by an experience of accomplishment. The podium finishes are just icing on the cake. If I have trained well, come to the race prepared, execute my race plan and put in the maximal effort I can on that day, I usually feel a strong sense of accomplishment. I also view each race as an opportunity to evaluate my training, nutrition and strategy. So, it becomes part of the process of preparing for the next event. Very much like life.

The triathlon community is very warm and unpretentious. It is not unusual to hang out with both age group athletes and world champions at the after race party. There is an acknowledgement of what it took to both get there and finish. So, it is great to share common experiences of the course and weather at the end of the race. Usually, I feel a sense of wellbeing for several days after the race.

What advice would you give to someone interested in training for their first triathlon?

I would first ask them to define their goals for (1)

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wanting to do a triathlon and then (2) what they want to accomplish in the triathlon itself. Thirdly, I would tell them to have patience.

Many aspiring triathletes come to training in less that optimal conditioning. If that is true, they need to have the patience to get in shape as they train. Everything takes time. (Weight loss, fitness levels, reduced times and learning the specific needs of the sport.) Just navigating how to go through the transitions is a learning experience. I remember my triathlon coach said “I have to train you into shape before I can train you for a triathlon”. That was initially very disconcerting for me because I wanted results right away. It can take several seasons to achieve competitive results in triathlon. As I became fitter, my results improved dramatically. I remember the difference in time from my first Olympic distance triathlon to my second (a period of 2 ½ months) was almost an hour.

A lot of that was the build in my fitness over the whole year and part was learning how to be in a triathlon.

I would then suggest they join a Masters Swim Group and if need be, get some swim lessons. Most people do okay with biking and running. As little kids, many learn to ride their bikes. We all run at some point, but not everyone is comfortable in the water. I would also suggest they join a training group for triathlons and glean information from more experienced athletes. If it is feasible and affordable, I would suggest they get a coach. This would help them avoid the pit falls of over training and the coach would also be a wealth of information.

They should also read up on what it takes to train for a triathlon. Joel Friel has written some good basic books on training for triathlon.

What kind of gear is necessary for a first time triathlete?

•T raditional triathlons are swimming, biking and running.

So at the very least they will need for training: •A good pair of goggles for swimming, swim suit and fins.

Swim paddles are optional.

•A good, well fitted pair of running shoes, comfortable running clothes that don’t cause abrasions.

• A bicycle, bicycle helmet, bicycle pants.

For Racing: •W hile not absolutely necessary it would be good to get either a pair of tri shorts and top or a tri suit. While it is possible to change your clothes during a triathlon, it is

inconvenient. A pair of tri shorts or a tri suit have a pad in them that affords a little more comfort on the bike and can be used in the swim and run both.

•A wetsuit. Most races are wet suit legal and in colder water than a pool. Wearing a wet suit increases buoyancy, which is definitely a plus, especially with newbie triathletes. Wet suits can possibly be borrowed or rented. I would definitely practice with the wetsuit before using it in an event!

What role does nutrition and lifestyle play in injury prevention and training?

They all play a large role in not only injury prevention, but the overall success in training and competing.

Nutrition has three basic components. Basic Nutrition gives you the quality building blocks every day that support your body during its increased demand when training for triathlon. You need protein to build muscle, carbohydrate to burn for quick fuel, fats to support the nutrition demands for distance and extended time events. Often overlooked are the trace minerals that are necessary for proper muscle contraction. An athlete in training probably needs to increase their calories to meet the increased demand of training. It might even be a good idea to consult with a nutritionist to determine a good food plan. For instance, if you are training for a sprint triathlon, you may not want to eat like you are training for an Ironman. There is also pre-training/ training/post-training nutrition and pre-event/event/ post-event nutrition to optimize training, recovery and performance.

Of course hydration must be included as part of a nutrition plan. Most people are under hydrated on a daily basis. Even minor dehydration can cause fatigue and confusion. However, when training, especially in

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hot weather, water alone is not sufficient and can be detrimental. When we sweat we lose water, but we also lose electrolytes. Electrolytes are necessary to insure proper muscle contraction. If an athlete is exercising for longer than a half hour they need to replace fluids and electrolytes, especially if they sweat a lot. If they are exercising for a longer period of time, they should consider taking nutrition in the form of a high quality sports drink which combines electrolytes, fluids and a mix of easily digested fuels. The athlete should try different products during their training to see which ones they like and tolerate well. They should never try a new product on race day. This goes for anything from nutrition to equipment. I have too often seen an athlete’s race day ruined by stomach problems, a breakdown of a new piece of equipment, a rash or blister due to an ill-fitting piece of clothing that was never tried or worn before race day.

Good quality sleep is one of the most important factors in progressing in any athletic endeavor. It aids in recovery and can’t be made up. If you like to party and go to bed late, don’t think you can shake if off in the morning and hammer the bike, swim or run.

What do you tell a patient who suffers from pain due to overtraining or overuse?

Unfortunately, most athletes over train. When questioned, athletes often tell me they train at their race pace. If they want to run an 8 minute 5k pace. They go out and run at an 8 minute pace each time they run. That would be an example of racing every day, not training.

Training should be modulated in terms of differing distances, times and intensity. One day might be a short run, the next run may focus on strength or speed, a third run would be a recovery run. Then you could put in a long run with a slower pace. If you are training for triathlons, you are usually doing two workouts a day with different disciplines. Imagine utilizing maximal effort with each workout each day?

Overtraining injuries manifest in many ways. One of the first signs is a general sense of fatigue and inability to recover from workouts. Most triathletes feel tired and sore at some time during their training. However, if an athlete feels an increase of tiredness, disturbed sleep patterns, irritability or becomes over emotional, these can be signs of overtraining. They should immediately take a short break, decrease their workout intensity and

maybe even stop all together. Then they should slowly resume their workouts and monitor how they feel. We tend to think the more we do in terms of intensity or distance or combined workouts, the stronger/faster we get. Often the opposite is true. Less is more. With overtraining times in training and races get slower, legs feel heavier, moods change. We often get sick more often and then the dreaded physical injury happens. It could be a stress fracture, a sprained ankle, a pulled muscle or in my case a loss of concentration and a bike accident two weeks before the Florida Ironman. I fractured several ribs, bruised my hip and could not race.

What I do with patients who sustain an injury is I first treat the injury. Then I discuss with them the reasons the body broke down. Most are very frustrated, because it usually comes at very inopportune times, like just before a race and they feel they won’t get enough training in. I share with them personal and clinical experiences where injuries which forced rest actually improved the individual’s race results. When an athlete is properly recovered and gets proper rest, they usually perform better when they return from an injury.

What advice would you give to parents of children and teen athletes?

First I would advise them to listen to kids. Let them explore the activities they enjoy. I know there is a lot of pressure to focus on a particular sport at a very early age. I think that is unfortunate. I believe kids should do a variety of activities and sports. The focus on one sport for multiple seasons at a very early age promotes overuse of certain muscle groups and motor patterns that can lead to chronic overuse injuries and an underdevelopment of other patterns and muscle groups.

If a child or teen is in love with a particular sport, make sure they still develop other motor skills and definitely let them get breaks between seasons.

You are currently a member of the chiropractic team for the semi pro football team, The New Jersey Lions. What type of support do you provide?

Actually, while we are mostly chiropractors who are certified in sports injuries or have Diplomate status in Sports, we are considered the training team and first responders. We render sports injury treatment before and after the game which includes soft tissue manipulation, chiropractic care, stretching and taping (kinesiology and

traditional athletic taping). During the game we provide on the field first response to traumatic injuries. We were chosen as the Athletic Training Team of the Year both two years ago and this past season.

Dr. Ira Shapiro, who was the U. S. Olympic Team Chiropractor for both the 2004 and 2006 Olympics was the doctor who organized that team. Dr. Shapiro, Dr. Victor Dolan and I were asked to be the team chiropractors for the new Trenton Freedom. They are a Professional Indoor Football Team which plays out of the Sun Bank Arena in Trenton. We are part of a multidisciplinary team which includes Dr. Peter Wenger, a sports physician and Trenton Orthopedic Group. We supply sports injury and chiropractic treatments at the practices and pre game.

During the game, we provide, with Dr. Wenger, on the field first response. It is quite exciting, they actually made the play offs in their first season.

Do these types of injuries differ from those seen in runners and triathletes?

Yes. While they do sustain muscle pulls and ankle sprains like other athletes, they also sustain multiple high impact collisions during a game which predisposes them to injuries similar to motor vehicle accidents. Head injuries, including fractures, neck sprains and concussions are common. Pulled back muscles and low back strains due to twisting and extension are also seen. Extremity injuries due to muscle tears, dislocations, contusions and fractures are often seen. Then of course there are the contusions, cuts and bruises.

Describe the ways in which most people (athletes and nonathletes alike) can benefit from quality chiropractic care.

Chiropractic is based on the premise of bringing the body back into homeostasis or balance. We all live in a gravity based environment. If our bodies are out of balance, gravity will accentuate that imbalance. Our movement will become inefficient and we shall begin to compensate and use other muscles and joints to achieve movement instead of the proper muscles and joint. The body will do anything to compensate so it can continue to move. Of course athletes want to move as efficiently as possible to achieve maximal performance. That can be translated to faster times, longer throws, heavier weight lifts and higher jumps. Chiropractic is very popular among our high level athletes for that very reason. Many are proactive in seeking chiropractic care to maintain that edge. They also know that injury will sideline them. They will lose valuable training time or the ability to compete in an important event.

While non-athletes don’t have the same goals, they still need to function as athletes in their everyday lives. I worked for a chiropractor, Dr. Phil Maffetone, when I first got out of chiropractic school. He wrote a book Everyone is an Athlete. If you think about it, we may not be running the 100 meters in the Olympics, but we are in that marathon called life. We run after and play with our kids, work in our backyards, lift and carry our groceries, carry our luggage, swim and walk up and down stairs. We can do this only with the balance between our nervous system, our muscular system and our skeletal system. Chiropractic care keeps that neuromuscular and skeletal balance that allows us to function at our best.

For additional information, call 609. 921.7071 or visit www.ershowchiropractic.com. Ershow Chiropractic Center is located at 915 Commons Way in Princeton, NJ.

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| the last word

S

Kwame Anthony Appiah

By Ellen Gilbert

cholar/critic Kwame AnthonyAkromaAmpim Kusi Appiah recently left Princeton University, where he was a member of both the Department of Philosophy and the University Center for Human Values, to assume a position as Professor of Law and Philosophy at New York University. He received both a B.A. and Ph.D. in philosophy at Clare College, Cambridge University. His most recent book is Lines of Descent: W.E.B.du Bois and the Emergence of Identity. His other titles include The Honor Code; Cosmopolitanism: Ethics in a World of Strangers; The Ethics of Identity; and In My Father’s House: Africa in the Philosophy of Culture. Appiah’s many honors include a National Humanities Medal awarded to him by President Obama in 2012. In 2013, then-recently appointed Princeton University President Chris Eisgruber asked the incoming freshmen class to read The Honor Code. Describing it as a “splendid” book, drawing on history and philosophy from different areas of the world,” Eisgruber said that he particularly appreciated “the questions it asks about what it means to live a good life, and which ideas about honor can promote a good life.”

The interview with you in the 2008 film Examined Life followed you on the move in an Air Canada terminal.

You have described yourself as “a rootless cosmopolitan” who has had “the privilege of growing up in a couple of different places.” Talk about the significance of place and travel in your life.

I was born in London, but grew up in Kumasi, the capital of the Asante kingdom in Ghana. Because of this my first real memories of England are from when I first went to school there when I was eight or so. But our English grandmother came to visit us in Ghana, and I already knew her well, and so I had the family connection, which made the transition from one place to the other much easier. I am conscious, too, of the fact that in these two places we lived lives of great privilege: my Ghanaian grandfather was the Chief Secretary of the Asante king, Prempeh II, whose first wife was my great-aunt and who was succeeded by my uncle; and my mother’s father had been Chancellor of the Exchequer at the end of his life, and his father was a member of the British House of Lords. So our families were very much rooted in the elites of these two places I knew. We could point to the graves of English ancestors back to the seventeenth century and my father told us about his ancestors back to the beginning of the Asante kingdom. All of which is to say that I think my cosmopolitanism was both the natural result of my upbringing and my family—I literally have cousins or in-laws in every inhabited continent (some Christian, some Muslim, some Jewish, some none of the above)—and that it is also based in a sense of being well-rooted in a couple of places … now including New York.

Nowadays I travel a fair amount both for my job, giving talks in Auckland or Hong Kong or Edinburgh or Bonn, and to keep up with my family: the eldest of my nephews, whose father is Norwegian, but who lives in Namibia, just got married to a (gorgeous!) Namibian woman, so we’ve just come back from a wedding in a small village in Namibia, up near the Angolan border, where our party included my sisters from Nigeria and England, my Nigerian and Norwegian brothers-in-law and their sons, and English and Ghanaian cousins of mine. Gertrude Stein—that great American Parisian—said once that there was no point in roots if you couldn’t take them with you.

I like that formulation.

There is so much strife in the world today, yet you still hope that people will engage in “global conversations” about “what’s right and wrong.” Talk about how the idea of honor might be used to appeal to people’s better instincts.

This is a large topic: I’ve just written a book about it, which, appropriately enough, will be published in Hong Kong.

But I suppose my key thought is that patriotism—real patriotism—is about caring for the honor of your country, which means caring that it deserves the respect of everyone, both at home and abroad.

So when your country does something creditable, you feel pride in this thing that we have done, or that has been done in our name; and likewise, when we do something discreditable, we feel shame.

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Those sentiments can be appealed to in the conversation of people across nations, though this process can backfire— leading to a nationalist backlash against the foreign critics and their local allies—so it needs to carefully be done.

I wrote a book about how such appeals played a role in the Chinese abandonment of foot-binding and in 19th-century British anti-slavery, among other places. And if we had the right background of relationships with Pakistan, we could mobilize this mechanism in support of the Pakistanis who are working to end honor-murder in their country.

Unfortunately, I think we don’t have the right relationships, mostly, since they don’t think of us as people who address them as equals, eye to eye, as it were. They think we condescend to them ... and, with important exceptions, they’re right. So the cosmopolitan in me wants us to repair our relationships with Pakistan and with the Muslim world more generally so that we can help each other deal with our many problems. That will take work from both directions, of course. But I know that I’m not alone in wanting to do that work from the side of what we call “the West,” and I know, too, that the Muslim world is full of people and places open for conversation.

You have been described as “our postmodern Socrates.” How do you feel about that? What are your thoughts on public intellectuals?

One of the problems of the World Wide Web is that you can’t escape epithets like that! I’m not sure that I’m terribly post-modern, and I don’t think the comparison with Socrates is one you could possibly live up to. My father (who loved philosophy, especially Cicero and Marcus Aurelius, for some reason) proposed Socrates as one of my names and my mother rightly and presciently responded, “But what if he wants to be a philosopher!”

I am often told I’m a public intellectual: but my “public,” if measured by people who could name one idea of mine, is, at most, in the thousands. So the way you can exercise influence isn’t by changing the mind of something called “the public,” but by providing ideas that are useful to people in public life: journalists, public officials (including politicians and judges) and so on. I would like to provide that service at least some of the time as a citizen of my country and as a citizen of the world.

You have described yourself as “a philosopher by trade,” while noting that “philosophers rarely write useful books.” Please explain.

The distinctive impulse of modern professional philosophy is to go slowly where other people want to go, in our view, too fast. We like to break down arguments into their smallest steps, to distinguish different conceptions hiding under a single word or concept; since most people have other things to be doing, they mostly don’t have the patience for this work. But there are many topics where the results of this philosophical care—for example with concepts like race and identity and meaning, on which I have worked—can usefully be shared with others.

And if we don’t do this some of the time I don’t see why we should deserve the respect of our society. But those contributions are made possible by all the difficult, less accessible work: so there’s an important division of labor within the profession between the moments (and the people) that address a wider world and the people (and the moments) that are part of our internal conversations.

Talk about the move from Princeton University to NYU. What prompted it? What are you looking forward to in New York City, and what will you miss about Princeton?

PRINCETON MAGAZINE summer 2014

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(OPPOSITE) Kwame Anthony Appiah, at Princeton University. Photo by Denise Applewhite (2005).

(BELOW) Appiah with photojournalist David Shankbone. Wikimedia Commons.

I will miss everything about Princeton: the marvelous students and colleagues, the thoughtful administration, the beautiful public spaces, the resources to support research and conferences ... all of it. But there are two important reasons, for me, for thinking this move a good idea. One is personal. My spouse, Henry, and I haven’t had jobs in the same town since he left Boston twenty years ago to work at the New Yorker, when I was teaching at Harvard.

Princeton was much nearer to his life in New York; but NYU means we can be together even more of the time and without the regular exposure to New Jersey Transit ... which I will miss rather less. And the second reason is professional: I’m interested, as I said, in doing some service to the conversation of this nation and of the global community, and my new job, both as a professor of law, and as a member of the global faculty of the university, will allow me to do that in new ways. First by talking to young lawyers; and second by making it possible to teach in many of our global sites, starting with Abu Dhabi, but eventually, I hope, including Accra, Buenos Aires and Shanghai, not so much by being there but through the miraculous new technologies that allow you to be virtually present thousands of miles away from your physical location. Part of the excitement of the new job is figuring out how to use these technologies in effective teaching in a genuinely multi-national classroom. Without these technologies I couldn’t both see more of Henry and work with students around the world! It doesn’t hurt, by the way, that NYU’s philosophy department is terrific and the Law School is one of the world’s great legal powerhouses; both are wonderful intellectual communities.

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| vintage princeton John Chancellor, Frank Blair and Edwin Newman on The Today Show, 1961.

John W. Chancellor

by Jordan Hillier

T

Chancellor at the White House in 1970.

oday, Brian Williams is considered the epitome of the modern newsman/ commentator. News legend John W. Chancellor (1927-1996) was the man to watch and the face of NBC’s Nightly News from 1970 until 1982. Chancellor represented American media across the globe. A foreign correspondent in Vienna, London, Moscow and Brussels, he kept the American public informed on the developing European Common Market.

Although he didn’t become a Princeton resident

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until his retirement from NBC in 1993, just three years before his death from cancer at the age of 68, he is well-remembered in the town as an active member of the community who spoke at the Princeton University Library, narrated Howard Blake’s The Snowman, and taped “A Walking Tour of Princeton.”

Born in Chicago, Chancellor embarked upon his career as a journalist and broadcaster at the age of 14, when, after a series of odd jobs as a riverboat deckhand and a chemical tester, he became an advertising copy runner for The Chicago Daily News.

As his career developed, he rose from copy boy to writer at The Chicago Sun-Times.

Chancellor began formal studies at the University of Illinois but dropped out when he was offered a job tracking stories for NBC’s Chicago affiliate, WNBQ. Soon he was climbing the ranks and was promoted to network correspondent for the midwest.

One of his experiences, in Arkansas during the period of racial integration of the country’s schools, made a lasting impression on Chancellor.

In September of 1957, lone black student Elizabeth Eckford approached Little Rock Central High School.

Black students had been told to report to a different location, but Eckford had missed the announcement.

As she entered the school grounds, she was jeered by a mob of white students. Chancellor watched a frightening scene unfold. Should he flee or should he stay? His response would characterize his future as a journalist covering stories he believed the public had a right to know about. He stayed.

Although, he briefly hosted The Today Show in the early 1960s, he found the popular light news format an uncomfortable fit for one who had earned a seat

at the table with every American president since Eisenhower, not to mention numerous prime ministers and world leaders, including the top Israeli and Arab leaders of the day.

His fearlessness resulted in his arrest, at the 1964 Republican National Convention when he refused to cede his spot on the floor to supporters of presidential candidate Barry Goldwater. Not long afterwards, he was chosen by President Lyndon B. Johnson to direct the Voice of America program, which he did until 1967.

During the 1976 presidential election Chancellor came up with the idea of using red and blue colors as a way of representing Republican and Democrat state wins. In 1992, he was inducted into the Television Hall of Fame.

When he retired, the Overseas Press Club of America honored the respected journalist and author’s “distinguished and exemplary service… long-term dedication to presenting the news without theatrical embellishments used to turn the news into entertainment.”

In that same year, Chancellor moved to Princeton, where he died on July 12, 1996, a few days shy of his 69th birthday. He left a void in American media and a vision of what news and television should be. The John Chancellor Award for Excellence in Journalism, established in 1995 is presented by the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism.

PRINCETON MAGAZINE SUMMER 2014

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