Wine Merchant issue 152

THE WINE MERCHANT.

An independent magazine for independent retailers

‘A perfect storm of crippling costs’: indies fear duty hike

Chancellor expected to add 16p to a bottle of red wine on November 26, but merchants worry she may go even further

Independents are bracing themselves for a Budget duty hike that goes beyond the inflationary increase scheduled by the Treasury.

If the chancellor goes ahead with current plans, it will add around 16p to a bottle of red wine. Combined with VAT and EPR, wine prices will have risen by just under £1 a bottle since January 31, according to the Wine & Spirit Trade Association.

The WSTA is calling on Rachel Reeves to

scrap the planned duty increase, arguing that, combined with the rise in National Insurance, minimum wage increases and reduced business rate relief, the wine and spirit sector “finds itself in a perfect storm of crippling costs”.

It also says duty increases have reduced the Treasury’s revenue by contributing to a downturn in alcohol sales.

Independent wine merchants are hoping for some sympathy when Rachel Reeves

unveils her spending plans on November 26. But there are fears that, like chancellors before her, she will see the wine trade as a soft touch.

Richard Ballantyne MW, who owns Noble Grape in Cowbridge, Vale of Glamorgan, says: “I suspect that with a £70bn, and rising, deficit in the exchequer, aboveinflation increases are unavoidable.

“If it happens, it happens. Everyone is in the same boat, but any further softening

Dog of the month: Pippa Whalley Wine Shop, Clitheroe

11 letters

We’ve been the victims of card fraud too, correspondents report

16 ozempic games

Weight loss drugs suppress appetite for wine as well as food

27 the burning question

What types of wine glass do indies recommend for home and work?

32 merchant profile

Golborne Wine & Deli in Notting Hill: another Covid success story

44 a portuGal road trip

A gaggle of indie buyers travel from south to north in search of treasure

49 beyond greenwashing

Our 12-page special shows the wine industry at its sustainable best

63 wines under £15

It’s a vital market segment – and there are still some cracking wines

78 ask phoebe

Meet our new agony aunt. You might find her rather familiar

71 Q&A: miles corish mw

He came to England for the cricket, and stayed for the wine scene

Could VAT go up as well as duty?

of the market, especially before our busiest trading period, will stretch retailers’ finances even thinner.

“I’m also worried about a possible rise in VAT. I fully expect to see it rise to 21%. Of course, what will happen is that consumers will stick to their price point, so we will effectively have some downtrading.”

Richard Sadler of Bin93 in Ipswich adds: “That 16p on a bottle means us merchants have got to put 50p on, because obviously we’ve got allow for the extra VAT etc – and we’ve just added a pound because of this stealth tax with the glass bottles. Eventually you price people out of going out.

“They are talking about redoing how business rates work. If they get rid of the small business rates scheme, you will see so many small independent places go, because we just can’t afford it.”

Victoria Tripp, who owns Bakkus in Lancing, West Sussex, says: “We really feel that hospitality and everything within that should have some sort of relief, because we are being hammered time and time again.

“Why not actually revive the high street by helping small businesses with utilities or giving us relief on wages? We pay just above minimum wage because the minimum wage just feels too brutal, but could that that difference be supported?

“We aren’t going to pass [duty increases] on this side of the year, because we want to

shield customers from rising costs in the run-up to Christmas, but we’ll assess the full impact early next year, once we hear from our suppliers.”

Jeff Folkins, owner of Dalling & Co in Kings Langley, says: “I get that the government has got to raise money, and I have some sympathy. But after the raises that we’ve had in duty over the last two or three years, it’s just becoming a habit that this industry is easy pickings.

“They’re making it so damn difficult, putting in the ABV tiered systems, making it so complicated with the extra paperwork and the extra money we have to spend to bring stuff in. We’re getting it from every which way and it’s getting a bit exhausting.

“There’s no concession whatsoever for smaller retailers. We don’t have the same cash flow or resources or the benefit of volume behind us as the supermarkets.

“As small businesses, we’ve got a lot to do. I can’t just hand over this extra admin; I’ve got to do it myself, and when I’m doing it, I’m not making money on the shop floor.”

Philip Amps, owner of Amps Wine Merchants in Oundle, reports that although retail sales are good, “wholesale is properly struggling – people are going out less, drinking less, properly minding their pennies”.

He adds: “Another duty increase will see a big wave of hospitality closures in the new year as many are only just hanging in there now and simply not making any money. It’s pretty depressing that a government that wants growth keeps putting costs up and so depresses consumer spending.”

Editor and Publisher: Graham Holter graham@winemerchantmag.com

Assistant Editor: Claire Harries claire@winemerchantmag.com

Reporter: Jacob Stokes jacob@winemerchantmag.com

Advertising: Sarah Hunnisett sarah@winemerchantmag.com

Accounts: Naomi Young naomi@winemerchantmag.com Admin and reader liaison: Charlotte Gingell charlotte@winemerchantmag.com The Wine Merchant is circulated to the owners of the UK’s 1,045

A new era begins for HarperWells

HarperWells completed the exit of its lease on its Ber Street premises in September. The Norwich merchant, established by Ed Wells and Dean Harper in 2006, was at the vanguard of the indie boom.

After Wells’s departure from the business in 2018, it experienced growth with the addition of a deli and wine shop, Fredricks in Diss.

“We stopped trading from Ber Street in February,” says Sam Howard (pictured), who now runs the business with wife Lisa. “But it took until September 1 to fully exit the lease. Dean remains a director and majority shareholder but doesn’t work operationally in the business, so HarperWells moves into the next 10 years without a Harper or a Wells.”

Ber Street was a large warehouse site and Howard admits that it was no longer serving the needs of the business.

“Ultimately the warehouse model is not what we see being successful for us on the high street,” he says. “Post Brexit, we really do not have the requirement to hold large amounts of stock and have seen smaller higher-value purchases in store becoming the norm.

“Shipping cases of nationally available wines all over the country when there are over 1,000 quality independent wine shops nationwide is counter-intuitive.

I would prefer to leave the lottery of the courier network to those with deep

“Whilst it does leave us without a retail presence in Norwich, we continue to service our Norwich

customers from Diss.”

Fredricks is a hybrid store with a deli. Howard reports 20% growth across all channels this year, and is about to launch his first wine from his vineyard project, Borrowed Origins, called Field Blend Fiasco.

Norwich pop-up will be permanent

Substrata Wines, which brothers Ben and Tom Louden have run from Norwich market since 2019, has secured larger premises.

There have been delays in opening the Dove Street premises, which will operate in tandem with the market site. Tom says: “The local planning department want us to apply for a change of use from Class E to a suis generis drinking establishment.

“Now we will open as a pop-up bottle shop until Christmas whilst we wait for planning approval.”

The brothers can both include Majestic on their respective CVs, and did harvests in New Zealand and Australia before starting their business.

“We just had the permanent offering going when Covid hit,” says Tom, “and we had to close the shop for seven weeks. But during that time, I guess like a lot of the little businesses at that point, we sold a lot more volume.

“We changed to just importing our own

stuff and we’re working with five growers directly now. Initially it was for our own retail and then over the last two or three years we’ve added a distribution element. It’s not a huge part of the business – we’ve got a handful of wine merchants around the country and some restaurants that we supply – so we’re hoping to develop that.”

About half of the 120 wines in the range are direct imported. “We work with small growers, and tend to take most of their portfolios,” Tom says. “We bring in mixed pallets of several different cuvées.

“We have two in interior Portugal and two in Barossa Valley – a sort of relic of our time in Australia. That’s where we started shipping from originally – an ambitious way to begin, but we didn’t really know how easy it was until we started shipping from the south of France.”

Tom describes the market site as “probably the smallest off-licence in the country”, and looks forward to using the basement in the new premises for storage.

Happy to be home on the hill

Steep Hill Wines in Lincoln has a new manager, Ivan Dixon, who says he’s delighted to be back in retail.

His career started at Portland Wine in Manchester, followed by a couple of years on the shop floor at Harvey Nichols before transferring to the buying team.

Dixon moved away from wine as head of spirits at both Harvey Nichols and later at Enotria. “I really missed retail and working with wine,” he says, “and I’m back where I started off, with a really great independent. I’ve gone full circle.

“There’s a huge opportunity to do something really good here at Steep Hill,” he says. “Not only the creation of the wine range in the shop, which is vital, but looking after wholesale accounts and looking at what we can do online and managing events.”

Ben and Tom Louden

Trinkfluss goes with the flow

Godalming now has its own wine merchant. Bastian Fischer, formerly a manager at The Good Wine Shop in south west London, has opened Trinkfluss in Church Street in the Surrey town, a picturesque location which fans of Cameron Diaz and Jude Law might recognise.

“I looked at Guildford, I looked at Chichester and Winchester,” says Fischer, “but I knew a little bit of the area in Godalming as I used to come here to the National Trust [Winkworth Arboretum].

“Church Street has got a bit of a cult following because it was part of the movie The Holiday. It’s really niche in the way that it’s full of independent shops, lots of quirky retailers; there are no high street brands

here. The shop is the perfect size for the hybrid concept of drinking in and bottle shop.”

According to Fischer, “Trinkfluss is one of those German words that doesn’t really translate well. Think of it as the ‘flow’ of drinking. When a wine is so easy, so moreish, that the glass just seems to empty itself.”

Trinkfluss began as an online business, which Fischer started to run full-time when he left The Good Wine Shop in February.

“Online is great,” he says, “but the opportunity came along for my own bricks and mortar place. There’s a bit of a magic about wine, which I feel just gets people together. You miss that energy and interaction if you’re only online.”

Fischer is working with suppliers including Third Floor Wines, Ripley Wines, Indigo, Newcomer and Les Caves de Pyrene. Austrian and German wine represent about 40% of the range.

Second site for Passione Vino

After 10 years in Shoreditch, Italian specialist wine bar and shop Passione Vino opens its second location in Exmouth Market this month.

Owner Luca Dusi told local media: “With the new bar in Clerkenwell, we’re expanding the family. We’re bringing across everything we love from Shoreditch, adding new bottles, new flavours and new experiences, all while celebrating the incredible history of this building. We can’t wait to welcome people in.”

Final farewell for Eastbourne shop

Chapman Wine Merchants in Eastbourne has closed after trading in the Meads district of the East Sussex town for six years.

Owner Victor Chapman says that the lease was surrendered after a prospective buyer pulled out. He is now exploring other opportunities in wine and looking to offload a 2019 Epos Now system.

As The Wine Merchant went to press, Companies House was reporting that accounts are overdue and that a proposal to strike off was active.

Bastian Fischer: “Trinkfluss is one of those German words that doesn’t really translate well”

Luca Dusi: “We’re expanding the family”

Cardiff indie will focus on natural

Ogof, a restaurant and wine shop, is set to open in Cardiff in time for Christmas.

A joint venture between Siôn Iorwerth, Alex Vines and Zanna Clarke, its focus will be on natural wines.

Iorwerth’s interest in natural wine goes back almost two decades when he started working at Wright’s Food Emporium in Wales. “My friend Joel and I worked for his family business about 16 years ago,” he explains.

“We set about learning and tasting and connected with Les Caves de Pyrene. We were just getting pallets of wine sent to us in very rural west Wales. We really got people into that style of wine, which was rewarding and exciting. Joel now has his own importing business called Wright’s Wines.”

Iorwerth also spent 10 years in Canada, opening a natural wine bar, which during Covid predictably pivoted towards retail.

“Moving back to Wales, I really wanted to do something in the same spirit,” he says, “but I wanted to align myself with other people, especially a chef, and I met

Alex and his partner, Zanna. Alex is a really talented chef, and he’s also recently moved back to Wales so it felt good to join forces and make that hybrid restaurant, wine bar, wine shop mix.”

The wine range will be courtesy of Wright’s Wine and Gergovie Wines, the London-based supplier at whose Maltby Street restaurant Alex worked as a chef.

“We’re also working with David Morris at Ancre Hill. He’s really cool and makes a lot of wine for different growers around Wales,” Iorwerth says.

Building lasting relationships with winemakers, suppliers and other indies seems to be key for Ogof as Iorwerth also gives Wayward Wines in Leeds a nod.

“We’re friends with Steve at Wayward, and I feel like we have a similar vibe to his shop: thoughtful, comfortable, relaxed. We want it to be a place where you can return for a glass of wine, or if you want to get a bottle or come and have dinner.”

• Taste Fine Wines, the independent wine merchant in Almondbury, Huddersfield, has closed its doors. The business, which has been trading since 1991 and is owned by Tim Marriott, has posted on its website that it is no longer taking web orders.

Bacchus

Star jumps

A mild-mannered Essex indie tells the story of the girls who were hogging prime window seats in his shop, dragging out the morning over a single coffee as they made the most of the wifi. He politely told them they were welcome to stay, but next time it would be appreciated if they could at least buy something from the deli. Other customers, who were buying food, would like the chance to sit in those seats. The girls’ response was a threestar Google review, accusing him of rudeness and misogyny.

Despite vowing never to return, the girls came back a few days later and took their familiar positions. The owner greeted them and congratulated them on expressing their opinions so stridently. But why, he asked, had it been necessary for them to lie?

The girls took all these gentle words on board and acted accordingly. Next time the owner checked, the threestar review had gone. He’d been downgraded to one star.

Soviet savoir-faire

Few Moldovans have happy memories of their pre-1991 Russian overlords. And it’s taken the country’s wine industry decades to fully shake off its communist shackles. But let’s face it, while the Soviets had much to learn about basic human rights and dignities, they were excellent graphic designers.

On a recent Wine Merchant trip to Chateau Purcari in Stefan Voda, by way of Cricova, we spotted these superb bottles in the companies’ vaults. Who wouldn’t be able to shift something this iconic by the case?

From left: Zanna Clarke, Siôn Iorweth and Alex Vines

Ground zero-zero for Stable Wines

Stable Wines is set to open in Islington, north London, next month.

Alex Young and George de Vos, the founders of restaurant and bar Goodbye Horses, are joined by Nathalie Nelles as the wine director and Fred Clelland as the general manager. Both previously worked for the P. Franco group.

Stable Wines came about almost accidently, a happy side-effect of a conveniently sourced cellar space.

“We needed additional storage for Goodbye Horses,” explains Young, “and a very interesting space came up a fiveminute walk away that has a gigantic cellar. Prior to us opening this as a shop, it was our off-site storage but we managed to get a premises licence to open as a wine shop with a bar downstairs.

“Essentially it’s a tiny glass cuboid on Essex Road, and behind the counter is the staircase that leads to this huge labyrinthine basement, which is really surprising when you’re going into this tiny little glass cube. It used to be a bank vault, and the vault door is still there, so we’re going to put all the rare cuvées behind there, nice and secure.”

Young adds: “We’re very much into our natural wine, and we focus on the zerozero end of the spectrum. I think that accounts for about 70% of our range and we always aspire to keep it that way.

“The term zero-zero is less ambiguous than a lot of the terminology that’s used in natural wine, because it literally means nothing added and nothing removed. In terms of what is natural, what is not natural … that’s more of a spectrum, and I suppose zero-zero is more of an absolute.

“I understand that these phrases cause a significant amount of confusion sometimes, but at Goodbye Horses we found that people are becoming more and more

Two of the Stable Wines team founded the Goodbye Horses restaurant

knowledgeable about all of these different terms, and an increasing amount of people are aware of terms such as zero-zero.”

And the equine theme? Goodbye Horses is the name of a song by Q Lazzarus and also happens to be Nelles’s karaoke song of choice.

“We’ve been working with Nathalie since the very beginning,” says Young. “She’s been steadily building up our wine list and really spent a lot of time preparing for Stable. She is the perfect fit for this role.”

New Milton’s new deli is big on wine

Westcroft Deli in New Milton, Hampshire, opened in October.

Ralph Buchanan previously owned The Sett in Brockenhurst and his new business will have a similar offering of premium deli products alongside the wine range.

“Since The Sett closed after Covid, I’ve been looking for the right opportunity and I always thought New Milton, right on the

Dorset border and with a good train line, was a good spot,” he says.

“My focus is on local cheese and charcuterie, and craft beer and fine wine. I worked a lot with Museum Wines in my previous business and I’ve a good relationship with Daniel [Grigg], so I’ll continue to take wines from them.

“I’m also working with Swig and Priory Wines in Lymington. Once I’m a bit more settled I hope I’ll be going out and finding wines myself.”

Buchanan will soon be returning to his WSET Level 3 and says he’s looking forward to his clientele learning along with him. “It will be fun sharing that subject with my customers. The same goes for all the produce: I like to tell the story of where the food has come from – who’s making those cheeses; where the charcuterie has come from.

“The plan is to do some wine tastings and have local food trucks come and serve their food and pair wines to it. I want people to come and find wine that they might not normally drink. There’ll be something for everyone.”

The customer who bought the shop

Tina Rose has just marked her first anniversary as the owner at 9 Vines in Hove, East Sussex. She bought the business from Marc Wise, formerly of Planet of the Grapes, who opened the shop in 2020.

Like a lot of people, Rose re-evaluated her corporate career during Covid, and left London for Brighton to begin studying for her wine exams. Shortly after becoming a customer at 9 Vines she approached Wise with an offer he couldn’t refuse.

“I thought the shop was really interesting,” she says, “so I just emailed Marc saying, ‘hello, you don’t know me, but I’ve got Fridays off and I’d like to come and work in your shop and learn from you while I’m doing my Level 3.’ He was a bit suspicious – ‘who’s this woman offering to work for free?’ So he met me to make sure I wasn’t a lunatic!”

Finding Rose sound of mind, and eager to learn, Wise offered her paid work but as she needed the flexibility around her day job, they agreed that payment in wine would be appropriate. “Marc would save samples and stuff for me and we’d taste together. I probably did a year of Fridays working with him. I fell in love with being in the shop and it helped me during my Level 3. I realised that I didn’t want my corporate job anymore, I wanted to have my own wine shop and bar.”

The pair became friends and in 2024, when Wise decided to sell the business, he turned to Rose as the most likely buyer.

“It’s a really nice legacy,” says Rose, “that the baton has been passed to someone who he knows loves the place like he did. If I’d had to start from scratch and do it myself I’m not sure I would have found somewhere as perfect as this. Marc chose really well. We’re on a parade of shops, next to a post office and there’s free

parking and lots of footfall. I think I’ve landed in the best possible space.”

Situated in a very wealthy suburban area, popular with footballers, 9 Vines is also close to Hove Park and Rose says many a lost hound has found its way back to her shop, memories of doggie treats leading them there. “They literally make their way here, and we know who their owners are,” she says. “We really are part of the local community.”

Rose has stamped her own personality on the business, most noticeably with the change in décor. “We were always having to turn people away on busy nights,” she explains, “so I took out a couple of the really big shelves and put counter seats in the window. Those seats are really popular with people on dates and with people wanting to come in and have a drink on their own.

“It has really changed the look and feel of the shop. It was a bit rustic before, and as a customer I would sit on the very hard wooden benches and think it was really uncomfortable. I’ve not got proper

cushions and replaced the old tables made of scaffolding boards, with marble pedestal tables – much easier to clean. I think it just feels a bit more welcoming.”

Another shrewd move has been to increase the collaborations with food trucks. “I wanted to increase the frequency because we used to have them come on a Saturday night but it wasn’t every week and we only worked with two or three vans. Now pretty much every Thursday and Friday night we have a food truck.

“I did some research and expanded our offering from pizza and burgers to include oysters and even a van that does fantastic roast dinners. The vans themselves have their own following so that brings people to us who have never been before.”

9 Vines is in a wealthy suburban part of Hove

Mike Taylor Photography

There is space for 38 covers inside and about 12 outside, weather permitting. Rose has just got planning permission to install an awning and rain covers to utilise that space during the colder months. “We do provide blankets,” she says. “Last week we had people sitting outside having a drink and pizza, and in October that’s a kind of testament to the fact that they really wanted to stay.”

The wine range may have decreased by about 200, thanks to the removal of those large shelves, but the remaining selection of around 650 lines has expanded to include wines from Brazil, Greece, Bulgaria, Moldova and Slovenia. “We’ve always worked with Liberty, but we wanted to broaden our horizons and we buy from more suppliers such as Ucopia, New Generation, Flint, Hatch, The Jolly Merchants, ABS and Fells,” says Rose.

Craft beers and beers on tap are also an important part of the offer, as well as deli goods and a plentiful supply of fresh eggs.

Tastings and events are also high on the agenda for Rose, who is keen to try out various ideas. “I’m quite happy to fail and learn from it,” she says. “Do something and then scrap it if it really was a bad idea, or tweak it to make it better. I get lots of feedback from customers about what they like and what they don’t like, or things they think I should do, and that’s really nice. It just means that they care about it and they’re happy for the shop to be successful – but not too successful, because they always want to get a seat!”

Card scams We merchants are on our own

We read the front page article of the October edition (Wine retailers left high and dry by credit card scams) and it confirmed what we’d been thinking for a while: that there is zero protection for the retailer in these cases.

I needed to speak to AIB about another matter last week and took the chance to ask them what their policy is. They confirmed that in all cases, customer not present (CNP) transactions were the sole responsibility of the retailer.

There are no extra details or steps/procedures that we as retailers can take to have some sort of security. So if a thief is using stolen card details and the actual cardholder does a chargeback, the money will be returned to them every time. They also suggested this is an industry-wide standard.

What surprised me, though, was that online sales are subject to the same rules unless you have 3D Secure in place at the point of payment. I’m sure you’re familiar with it: the customer is prompted to confirm the sale in a banking app or receives a code by text. Without that facility in place, a chargeback can be made by the real owner of a stolen credit/debit card.

I use Stripe for our website and the default setting is to have 3D Secure not switched on, so we’ve obviously sorted that out.

We’re discussing only taking CNP transactions from customers we know and have dealt with previously and asking any new customers to go online. It runs the risk of annoying a few people – but hopefully most will understand that we’re being hung out to dry by the banks on this one.

Darren Willis, Grape & Grind, Bristol

Phone payments now banned

I read your recent article on credit card scams and thought I’d drop you a line to let you know we were victim to the same fraud a few months ago.

Same format: telephone sale to a man purporting to buy fizz for his daughter’s 21st party. The sale went through, and we sent the cases via courier. The customer tried a follow-up online purchase a couple of days later, which failed.

Some time later we learned the original transaction was fraudulent, and we’ve lost it all. It’s devastating as a small indie and means that we will no longer take any payment over the phone, which of course is rough on the 99.99% of lovely customers who may have wanted that option. I just thought I’d let you know in the name of solidarity!

Matt Hodgson, Grape Britannia, Cambridge

There are now 650 wines in the range

GRAHAM HOLTER

Editorial

A masterful storyteller, but not a wine geek

We all know wine geeks. There’s a better than average chance that you are one yourself.

These are people who don’t just enjoy the pleasant background noise of the wine world. They fixate on producers, back vintages and new releases. They can reel off details of wines they enjoyed 25 years ago, who was with them at the time and how much they paid. They soak up new information and they read assiduously. Wine makes them very happy indeed.

Peter Hall, who died recently, didn’t strike me as a wine geek. He was a pioneer of English sparkling wine at his Breaky Bottom estate in East Sussex, and an inspiration to those who followed in his footsteps – and to the writers and buyers who came to visit, and wanted to hear the minutiae of how his creations came about.

A proud farmer, Peter revelled in these occasions and was a masterful storyteller. But there were things that interested him just as much as, or more than, winemaking. Jazz, opera and poetry seemed to get his eyes twinkling far more than any chat about trellising or disgorgement dates.

A few years ago my eldest son spent a week at Breaky Bottom on work experience. As far as I can tell it mostly involved roll-ups and watching cricket on the small barn TV. He had a fabulous time.

The last time I saw Peter, I brought round

a bottle of the most obscure red wine I could lay my hands on and presented it to him. He studied it with suspicion and gently placed it on his kitchen table, as if it might explode at any moment. I had hoped to delight him. Instead I think I just bewildered him. I’d chosen the wrong gift: at heart, I think he was really a whisky man.

Who’s afraid of independent wine shops?

Decanter recently ran an article with the headline How to Navigate Your Local Independent Wine Merchant. It offered “some tips on how to shop for wine and come away feeling good about it”.

I can’t say anything about what the article revealed as I’m not a subscriber (I probably should be). But then I normally come away from indie wine shops feeling pretty good, so maybe the article wasn’t aimed at me.

Who exactly was it aimed at, I wonder? You’d like to think that anyone who buys Decanter would be very much at home in any sort of wine shop, modern or traditional, funky or fusty. And yet the standfirst seemed determined to hammer home the ridiculous idea that some sort of training and preparation is necessary. “We get it,” it said. “Walking into an independent wine merchant can sometimes be intimidating.”

It’s great, I suppose, that Decanter is talking up the indie trade, but why in quite those terms? We all know that, if you’re someone who loves good wine, this is where the fun has been happening for some time now. Independent wine shops really aren’t scary places to explore, but the fact that some people clearly think they are should bother all of us a little bit.

In a nutshell …

Introduce a bit of retro fun by rewarding existing customers, and any friend they introduce to your shop, with a turn on a tombola.

Tell us more.

“Apart from working alongside me in the shop, my partner Rachel is a business coach, and this is a technique that she’s used to help some of her clients grow their businesses.

“Essentially, it works as a personal introduction from somebody who is already a fan of what you do and they’re introducing a friend to your business. It’s a trusted recommendation, so we don’t just let any old Tom, Dick or Harry have a go; it’s somebody who’s already known to us, already on our mailing list, and then they are introducing someone new to us.”

In what form do customers give you the information about the person they’re recommending?

“We have pre-printed cards which customers can fill out and take away to put their friend’s details on before returning them to us.

“Because of GDPR, we actually require the friend in question to come into the shop for the first time with the person

72: introduce a friend, win a prize

Darren Tickner Hastings Wine & Coffee

Every envelope in the tombola contains a prize

who is introducing them, and that’s when they can both have a go on our tombola, and they are guaranteed to win a prize every time. In the two months since we’ve initiated this, we’ve gained 40 new customers for our mailing list.”

What’s in the tombola?

“We had a lot of fun thinking up the prizes and creating laminated cards to put inside different coloured envelopes. Every envelope contains a card indicating a prize,

which can be anything from a cup of coffee, a glass of wine, a Vacuvin, or even a mixed case of wine. There are two chances in our tombola to win a mixed case.”

How did you get your hands on a tombola? Was it specially made?

“We managed to find one online. It’s made of clear Perspex and it looks really good to have all those little coloured envelopes flapping around in there. When they draw one out, people love to get a prize no matter what it is, and have been very surprised when they come away with a £25 gift voucher.

“If they win a case of wine, we hope they take to their own social media to crosspromote it. I suppose what we’re thinking about is the lifetime value of customers. It’s not about giving away free stuff. It’s about asking ourselves what a regular customer is worth to us, building that into our marketing plan and doing something fun in-store.”

Your customers seem to be getting into the spirit of it.

“We’re a neighbourhood wine bar, so rewarding our customers who help to grow and secure our business by introducing their friends encourages that community feel.”

Darren wins a WBC gift box containing some premium drinks and a box of chocolates.

Tell us about a bright idea that’s worked for you and you too could win a prize.

Email claire@winemerchantmag.com

Do slimmer customers drink less wine?

Drugs that are helping block out food noise are also making wine a less appealing option than it used to be for many people. What does this mean for specialist merchants?

Claire Harries talks to people who have lost weight on Ozempic and Mounjaro – and to retailers who might, or might not, be about to lose revenue

Weight-loss drugs like Ozempic, Wegovy and Mounjaro are here to stay. Already 4% of households in the UK are using them to combat food cravings – a figure that is likely to increase as the medication evolves. But they also have an effect on wine intake.

The GLP-1 medication, administered by an injector pen but with pills soon expected to be a viable alternative, contains semiglutide, a compound that mimics a natural hormone to slow digestion and suppress appetite. As a result, people feel fuller, so they eat less and will typically lose a lot of weight quickly.

It has been life-changing for many people and, for some, it has the capacity to impact the way they think about food and drink long-term.

James, from Horsham in West Sussex, who was prescribed Mounjaro for health reasons, reports how his appetites have changed.

“I was overweight, and the doctor had me on blood pressure medication and I was taking gout pills,” he says. “It struck me that, at 53 years old, I’d be on those medications for life – and I decided I wanted to do something about it.”

“Going into this I’d made the decision that I was going to change my health habits. I did have a complete lifestyle change and got the mindset of exercise and healthy eating.

“I knew that not all the weight lost would be fat. Some of that is going to be muscle, so I knew that my body needed protein to keep muscle mass as I lost weight.

“It completely changed the way I ate. I also wanted to exercise properly so my wife and I would go swimming at least five times a week, and I made sure I was doing at least 10,000 steps a day.”

In just over a year, James lost six stone. But how did he feel while he was on the medication?

“I used to have wine most evenings, and if we went out for dinner it would be gin and tonics beforehand”

James, Horsham

“Before, if someone asked me if I fancied a tasting menu, my answer would have been ‘get me booked in now, and let’s go for it!’ But the thought of doing that just didn’t excite me whatsoever,” he explains.

“I used to have wine most evenings, and if we went out for dinner it would be gin and tonics beforehand and then a few glasses of wine with dinner. Within a week of taking [Mounjaro] I didn’t want to eat because at no point did I feel hungry. I

had to sort of force myself to eat. I didn’t miss the food because it completely blocks it, so you don’t think about it.”

About six weeks after finishing his treatment, James sounds confident that his habits are forever changed, saying: “I don’t think I could ever consume a big meal. It just changes your way of thinking.”

Sarah, a nurse in her 60s from Brighton, says she has struggled with her weight all her life.

She’d tried all sorts of diets and even had a gastric balloon. She was pre-diabetic and had high blood pressure before she embarked on her privately-funded medication, starting with Ozempic but switching to Mounjaro.

“It immediately took away all that food noise, but it also took away the wine noise,” she says. “I would have described myself as a professional wine drinker; I definitely drank too much. But it’s just not on my agenda anymore. I had a glass of rosé with lunch recently, but it doesn’t taste the same. It tastes more acidic.”

Sarah has lost four and a half stone in 18 months, and she has gone from someone who avoided going out and didn’t want her photo taken to frequently socialising as well as swimming, dancing and working in her allotment.

“I have to eat earlier because it slows down your digestion,” she says. “I do go out for dinner but I don’t eat a dessert because I’m full.

“I used to get a huge amount of pleasure and enjoyment out of having a glass of wine, but it’s not there now.

“I was quite surprised when I went to a pub to meet some friends. It was quite a blokey pub, and they had a shelf full of zero-alcohol gins, beers and wines. I feel that zero alcohol is not a dirty word anymore. I’ve been to a couple of places where the barman has seen it as a challenge to make me something like an alcohol-free negroni. People make an effort to make things a bit more interesting.”

While Sarah is sticking to alcohol-free drinks or maybe the occasional glass of rosé, James, although he has given up beer, continues to enjoy wine in moderation. “I’m fortunate that my dad invests in wine and sometimes releases two or three cases to me, so I have been drinking some very nice reds,” he says.

“I

would have described myself as a professional wine drinker. I definitely drank too much. But it’s just not on my agenda anymore” Sarah, Brighton

Currently, adults with a BMI of 35 or more can be prescribed jabs on the NHS, and while they are also available to purchase privately, at a cost of approximately £150 per month, health secretary Wes Streeting recently announced he wants weight-loss jabs to be freely available to more people, so we can only expect the number of users to continue to grow. During an appearance on LBC radio in July, he said: “Weight-loss jabs are the talk of the House of Commons. Half my colleagues are on them.”

The advent of weight loss drugs has had an impact on big business. Investment manager Terry Smith sold his stake in Diageo at the beginning of this year partly due to fears that demand, and profits, were being hit by weight-loss drugs. In the US, share prices of Pepsico and Haagen-Dazs maker General Mills have dropped.

Fraser McKevitt, from market researcher Kantar, says its data shows that the use of these drugs “is starting to have an effect on food sales”. 4.1% of the 30,000 households it surveys now have a GLP-1 user, up from 2.3% a year ago, and 23% of those households with a GLP-1 user have cut back on alcohol. 63% have cut back on “treat” foods, such as pizza.

Should indies be worried that something similar is about to happen to wine sales?

“This is something we need to be aware of,” says Mark Wrigglesworth, owner of The Good

No more for me, I’m off to the allotment

Mark Wrigglesworth

“The impact could be more disproportionate at the middle and upper end of the indie wine sector”

Mark Wrigglesworth

Wine Shop, an indie with five branches across south west London. “It would be daft not to acknowledge that this is a potential contributing factor to reduced footfall.”

He adds: “I am not sure that customers are openly talking to us about the subject at this stage, but there have been a number of anecdotal examples we have seen with customers we know where behaviour and frequency of visits have changed, and an assumption has been made by us.”

Wrigglesworth believes the “less but better” philosophy “plays helpfully into our sector of the market”.

But he adds: “It should not be ignored that reduced wine consumption will have an impact at all price points, not just the bottom end.

“It is also a relevant factor that a more affluent customer group is also the most likely to be able to afford the current costs associated with nonprescribed weight-loss drugs. So you might argue the impact could be more disproportionate at the middle and upper end of the indie wine sector.”

Gosia Bailey at Mr & Mrs Fine Wine in Southwell, Nottinghamshire, agrees that a certain amount of guesswork is at play when it comes to ascertaining changes in customer buying habits.

“Some people are open about it, while others you can guess but choose not to mention it,” she says.

“We’ve found where customers are using the jabs it most definitely curbs the alcohol demand too, but I think it affects mainly mainstream hospitality, whereas we have the benefit of people choosing to buy or come in and drink quality over quantity. I think they feel if they are going to drink it might as well be something nice and a treat.”

Bailey also suspects that the use of weight-loss jabs could be something of a seasonal trend.

“Where I have spoken to people [about its use], I think it was a good aid before the summer, but now prices of jabs have increased significantly and summer is over I see that a lot of people are choosing not to continue,” she says.

“I guess by the time the clocks go back and long nights set in, people will be cosying up with a bottle of wine just as before.”

Sunny Hodge, Diogenes The Dog/ Aspen & Meursault, London

“I see weight loss drugs hitting the mid to high-end food sector quite heavily. They are not cheap, yet still affordable for many. Perhaps the silver lining in this is that we will as a society consume less overall. As food inflation soars, perhaps we will get used to smaller portions and this will help balance out the equation. Equally, mankind is eating more than ever before, and a plethora of illnesses come off the back of that, which include the shortening of our lifespans, irritable bowel syndrome, and certain inflammation-related cancers.”

Claire Carruthers, Carruthers & Kent, Newcastle

“We’ve got a lot of customers who are on it who look amazing and who have lost a lot of weight. They’re quite freely admitting that they’re on it, and just saying how they've got no desire to eat, but they’re still coming in here and having a glass of wine. They are drinking good stuff and they’ll spend a whole night here.”

Lisa Owens, Liquorice, Shenfield, Essex

“I’ve only had one customer a few months ago who said she was taking the weight-loss drug. She laughed that she shouldn’t be in the shop drinking wine but was making an exception! We are very fortunate to not have seen a decline in our ticketed events, even though we are running one a week. I feel we are well placed to monitor the trend but not change too much at our core.”

Rising Stars

When Amy Caiger took over and rebranded Unwined in Tooting a year ago, she brought her colleague Flavia along for the ride and Indie Wine Club was born.

“Flavia is awesome!” says Amy. “She’s my manager and came on board with me when I took over the site in November 2024. She’s a real superstar and is an absolutely fantastic right-hand woman. She has helped and supported me no end with the takeover, rebrand, refurb and new extension as well as the day-to-day service and running of things. I couldn’t have done it without her.

“She can deal with any situation, so I know the place is always in excellent hands. She has some great ideas which I really value. She is also so amazing with the customers, making sure everyone’s visit is super special – they love her. I’m extremely lucky and grateful to have her. Indie Wine Club wouldn’t be what it is without her.”

Flavia had buckets of hospitality experience before she met Amy and they worked together at Unwined, and it’s easy to see the sense of fun and curiosity from the original owners, Laura Ward and Kiki Evans, passed down like a baton to this next iteration of the business.

“Amy and I started working together four years ago and we built a friendship over wine and music,” says Flavia. “The whole reason we worked there was because we loved it and although we’ve rebranded it’s nice to acknowledge that we’ve retained the ethos of working with other women and advocating for female winemakers and independent winemakers. That’s why we’ve all enjoyed working together.”

Of mixed Brazilian and English heritage, Flavia grew up in China, Malaysia and Singapore, before settling in the UK when she was 20 years old.

“I’d worked in bars and restaurants in Singapore, so I kind of got the hospitality bug there. I got into wine in my mid 20s – I loved hospitality already and going to work with wine felt like a natural process.

“I’ve had lots of fun helping Amy mould the branding and the business because I’ve never really been a part of a business from the very beginning. I’ve loved being really hands-on. Amy always respects my ideas and I feel really appreciated.

“I’m just excited to get people coming in because we’ve put a lot of work and effort into it over the last

Indie Wine Club, Tooting, south London

year and it’s just such a fun space for everyone. We’re very neighbourhood and community-based too, which I think is important for a place like Tooting, because we’re the only wine bar and shop in the area.”

Having just wrapped up the tastings for Black History Month, Flavia says she’s really excited about the upcoming wine and crisp tasting, wine and ice cream and wine and slime. Needing to provide further clarification on that last, Flavia adds: “You know those TikToks of people putting glitter and slime together? It’s an opportunity for the adults to do it for once. It’s going to be a lot of fun.”

Flavia wins a bottle of Champagne Devaux Cuvée D courtesy of Liberty Wines

If you’d like to nominate a Rising Star, email claire@winemerchantmag.com

Flavia Wright

Zuccardi Regiones Paraje Altamira Cabernet Franc 2023

Only the victim of a cruel medical experiment would fail to feel a frisson of excitement these days when the words “Mendoza” and “Cabernet Franc” appear together on a label. This one plays all the right green notes, in the right order, with succulent cherries and blueberries in there too, and a sting of acidity.

RRP: £20.90 ABV: 14%

Hatch Mansfield (01344 871800) hatchmansfield.com TRIED & TESTED

Génese Moncao & Melgaco

Alvarinho 2024

We thought we knew what to expect from a highaltitude Alvarinho from Vinho Verde but this one stopped us in our tracks with its fuller, richer flavour: partial malolactic, and a bit of barrel ageing, have added some interesting cushioning. More proof, if it were needed, that VV is far from a one-trick pony.

RRP: £25 ABV: 12.5%

Swig Wines (020 8995 7060) swig.co.uk

Lyme Bay Winery Covepoint Chardonnay NV

England makes some very good Chardonnay, much of it quite showy and expensive. Covepoint, crafted from prime Essex fruit, is far cleaner and less complicated in style, with an easy-going drinkability. A hint of stone fruit, a smidgen of vanilla and a suggestion of lemon zest all add to the fun. A very successful wine.

RRP: £14.49 ABV: 13%

LBW Drinks (01297 551355) lymebaywinery.co.uk

Château de Rochemorin Pessac-Léognan 2022

It’s Sunday evening, the roast dinner aromas are filling the kitchen, and of course you’re thinking as much about what’s going in your glass as what’s going on your plate. This Lurton loveliness, dominated by Merlot, is exactly what’s required: smooth black fruit, a lick of oak spice and a clean mineral edge.

RRP: £28 ABV: 14%

North South Wines (020 3871 9210) northsouthwines.co.uk

LMT Masusta Garnacha 2022

Luis Moya Tortosa has a penchant for old and abandoned vineyards in Navarra, and the key to his wines is doing virtually nothing to the fruit these produce. But of course it takes great skill to know what doesn’t need to be done. Natural fermentation and two winters in barrel yields a Garnacha that’s rich and earthy, but with no grainy edges or tannin rasp.

RRP: £20.50 ABV: 14%

Moreno Wines (0161 908 1383) morenowines.co.uk

Robert Oatley Finisterre

Margaret River Cabernet 2019

There’s a cool, minty lift here that provides a delicious counterpoint to the rich blackcurrant flavours in your glass. A wine so silky-smooth it’s almost indecent. Another excellent advertisement from Robert Oatley for Margaret River: a polished red wine in every sense, with appeal for novice and more discerning drinkers.

RRP: £26.80 ABV: 14%

Hatch Mansfield (01344 871800) hatchmansfield.com

Angus Paul On a Flight of Furious Fancies Chenin 2023

Angus says this block of Polkadraai Chenin is so exposed to the Cape Doctor that you can lick the salt from the leaves. It’s a raging citrus armada firing cannonballs of salt and chalk. Wrestled by the wind, pinned by the sun and anchored by granite, these old vines tell the story of a battle against the elements.

RRP: £27 ABV: 12.5%

RAKQ

rakq.co.uk

Natte Valleij Stellenbosch Cinsault 2023

Alex Milner lays a worthy claim to being king of Cape Cinsault. After half a century of digging deep into the decomposed granite soils of the Polkadraai Hills, these vines are expressing the harshness of their home under the shadows of the Helderberg mountain. Plucky, fresh and floral, it yields the prettiest of perfumes.

RRP: £27 ABV: 12%

Museum Wines (01722 433706) museumwines.co.uk

THE WINEMAKER FILES

Rob MacCulloch MW

Chief winemaker at Hattingley Valley

After starting his career at Oddbins, Rob worked at wineries in New Zealand, Australia, the Mosel and California before returning to his native Hampshire in 2022 to take over from Emma Rice at Hattingley Valley

I went through WSET and Diploma with Oddbins, and by 1998 I’d managed three stores. I couldn’t see myself going much further within the Oddbins hierarchy. So I went out to New Zealand, and I did a harvest for Montana in Gisborne. That was my introduction to actual wine production and I found it fascinating. I probably wasn’t very good at anything back then, but it was a really eye-opening harvest.

I am definitely more winemaker than viticulturalist. Viticulture is very much more difficult. I’ve never actually worked in a vineyard, though I’ve done a lot of grower liaison. I can’t drive a tractor.

In 2022 it was announced that Emma Rice was leaving Hattingley. It was big news for the English wine industry and big shoes to fill. My friend James said, you should absolutely apply for that, but I wasn’t sure. My wife said, Hattingley’s my favourite wine – go for it.

Emma’s framework was some malolactic fermentation, some barrel fermentation and maturation. And then insightful blending. Those three things really define Emma’s style. It makes a lot of sense for a sparkling wine that retains the English character, but also tempers acidity. Another thing, of course, is her use of reserve wine, which she introduced quite early on.

About 20% of the current vintage is wild fermented. Fermentation is now mixed up a lot more in terms of temperatures, turbidities, mouth feel ... quite often we’ll use a red yeast for a white or white yeast for red. There’s a lot more experimentation within the framework.

2023 was, dare I say, a rather dilute vintage. But I think those wines are looking pretty good and our 2024 wines I think are actually stronger than 2023. This is hopefully becoming a bit of a calling card for us: making good wine in bad vintages.

Doing a successful bottling is a huge relief, and it’s when you see the team working best. I’m always very on edge ahead of bottling, because for sparkling winemakers, second fermentation in bottle is everything. I think we’ve really got bottling and the processes at our winery down to quite a fine art now. Some things during bottling aren’t always going to go exactly to plan; there’s always going to be a few curve balls. But bottling is probably the thing which is most enjoyable.

England really isn’t the same as Champagne. The climate is markedly different and we have different growing conditions. We’re on chalk, but the the topsoil in particular is very, very different here than it is in Champagne. The key thing for us is not so much soil type, but vineyard management. That’s the thing people should be talking about in England: who are the best viticulturists? Who’s grown the best fruit?

If we’re not happy with this year’s harvest, there’s something wrong. It’s been a great vintage, really, and I think it will be rightfully spoken about for many years. There’s no such thing as a perfect harvest but this one came pretty close. There’s always some botrytis in England, but it was really pretty minimal. It is an exciting time. I think this year will go down as a strong marker of what England can do.

Hattingley Valley Blanc de Blancs 2018

Our Chardonnay demands long ageing, on lees, because of its acidity levels in our climate. It can benefit from some malolactic but for us it’s never been 100%. Like all of the Hattingley wines, it comes from a range of vineyard sources, including our own – we get very different Chardonnay flavours across England, which makes this a very interesting wine to blend. With one of our clones, you can get almost a tangerine flavour, and then 100 metres away, in another clone, you can get a lemon-lime character.

Hattingley Valley Rosé 2021 2021 was definitely more of a difficult vintage, but the rosé we produced in that year actually has a nice, soft, red fruit character. Our rosé is just Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and a little bit of Pinot Précoce. It is our one wine which we release a little bit early to try and capitalise on the deliciousness of the fruit. It’s a vintage wine and always has been, as has the Blanc de Blancs. Its colour just depends on vintage conditions. Even though both the Rosé and Blanc de Blancs are vintage wines, from the last vintage we’ve actually introduced a little bit of reserve wine, because you can use up to 15% of a previous vintage. It seemed like we were leaving something behind if we didn’t try a little bit of that

In association with Hattingley Valley

Frédéric is technical director of Maison Louis Jadot, one of the most famous and respected names in Burgundy

Sponsored feature Wines are imported by Hatch Mansfield

Profile: Frédéric Barnier

Maison Louis Jadot

How would you summarise your responsibilities as technical director?

I am responsible for all aspects of viticulture for the Louis Jadot domaine, as well as for the production of the wines of the maison – including vinification, maturation, and bottling.

We cultivate 125ha of vineyards and vinify on five sites: in Beaune for the Côte d’Or, Chablis and Givry for regional appellations, Cellier de la Vauxonne in Beaujolais for our Beaujolais-Villages wines, and finally in Pontanevaux for the Mâconnais. Of course, I’m not alone in this – I manage a team of 45 vineyard workers and around 15 people in the cellar.

Is it a job you can ever feel you’ve truly mastered?

That’s the charm and the great fortune of Burgundy: every year, we embark on a new adventure, with a new season and a new vintage. This constant renewal is what keeps our motivation alive.

Naturally, with time (2025 marks my 16th vintage at Maison Louis Jadot, and my 27th since I began working in Burgundy),

one gains experience and often anticipates situations more effectively.

How would you say the winemaking has evolved at Jadot?

I’ve always been committed to respecting what has been built before me. Maison Louis Jadot has been producing wines for over 150 years. Each winemaker plays a part in continuing this legacy of quality and reputation of Louis Jadot, not in stamping our own name on it.

There have naturally been a few changes, to adapt to the evolving quality of grapes under the influence of climate change. For example, we’ve introduced ageing in foudres for the second half of the maturation process, to help preserve freshness in the wines. We’ve also been adapting our winemaking facilities to meet the challenges of vinifying in high summer.

We know you’ve put great effort into HVE practices, as well as organic certification. How do you measure the success of these efforts?

We are exploring new approaches in the

vineyard to prepare for the unpredictable future climate – such as experimenting with new rootstocks, cover crops and a better understanding of frost-sensitive areas.

Our guiding principles are simple: to grow better fruit, to make purer wines; to protect the health of our teams working in the vineyards; and to safeguard the environment and those who live nearby.

The success of these measures is then seen in that, even in difficult vintages with high disease pressure, our grapes are always more beautiful than conventionallyfarmed fruit. This inevitably carries through to the wines: they are more precise, more transparent, and express their terroir with greater clarity.

Is Burgundy a place that allows you to be creative, or do you feel hemmed in by the responsibility?

You know, I came to Maison Louis Jadot to follow in the footsteps of Jacques Lardière, globally recognised as the winemaker of the maison, with 42 vintages to his name.

So yes, I know what pressure feels like –and I manage it quite well. I’ve been diving since I was a child – one of my favourite hobbies – so I’m used to handling pressure!

I see my role here not as a burden, but as a privilege. Together with our teams, we try to do our best. We stay focused on our work and, I believe, true to the spirit of the maison. It’s not that complicated, really!

What do you love most about working in Burgundy?

The diversity of our wines, the deep-rooted nature of our appellations – it’s a unique model. And every year, a new story begins.

How do you relax outside of work?

I do a lot of sport – running, cycling, gym, stand-up paddleboarding, and scuba diving back in Brittany, where I’m from. And every weekend, I cook for my family.

Ladoix Le Clou D’Orge 2023

A nearly 2ha vineyard near the old quarry of Ladoix; a generous wine, round and supple. It’s the perfect example proving that in Burgundy, you can still find great wines that remain accessible. RRP £43

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Clos de la Croix de Pierre Rouge 2019

This vineyard faces directly towards the Corton hill. It’s a stunning site on a steep slope with poor soils, yielding an elegant, highly aromatic and generous wine. Well worth discovering in white too. RRP £35

Beaune 1er Cru Célébration 2018

To mark the 150th anniversary of Maison Louis Jadot in 2009, we produced the Célébration cuvée using the best Beaune climats that we farm. The success of that wine encouraged us to repeat the cuvée in great red vintages such as 2018. This cuvée has a secret: it is blended during preparation for bottling, after 18 months of ageing in barrel or foudre. Then, we give it an additional six to eight months in tank – a total of 24 to 26 months of ageing – which allows the blend to harmonise beautifully. A perfectly balanced wine. RRP £55

DAVID PERRY

Irregular Thoughts

Rosé

season is over and it’s

time for

think a nice claret may be called for. What we stock is evidently influenced by my preferences and prejudices. We usually have 12 different clarets in bottles and six or seven in magnums. That may not sound excessive: we have eight Rhône reds, for example, but we only have three Australians. We don’t have much space and are very old-world heavy. The area is pretty old-school too.

claret.

Autumn doesn’t exist anymore

Not that long ago it was summer and our floor was piled high with rosé. Then it got a bit cooler and I moved the last of the bulk pink to the storage space. For two days the shop looked like it had a very small dance floor but now it is full of claret and will soon be joined by port. There used to be an autumn season but now we just go directly from summer to Christmas – from rosé to claret. I like to drink something different most nights (OK, every night) but occasionally I will grab a claret and wonder why I drink anything else. It always delivers but after

a while I get bored and go off-piste again. We have regular customers, though, who not only stick to claret but stick to the same claret week in week out. That’s fine. I can predict how much to keep in stock. Then they die or the vintage changes and it doesn’t taste quite like it used to, so they suddenly decide it’s no longer their favourite.

We’re then stuck with too much stock. I have to help out by drinking some of it myself and remember that I really like claret. It’s the circle of life. Nothing I can do about that. We’ve got steak tonight and I

Our claret prices range from £14 to about £50 but it’s the £25 point which is the mode. We often have a not-to-be-missed shipped-to-order claret bargain as well. That was the case until this week. We sold all of the bargain claret, a load of wooden boxes landed and I got very excited. “The Claret Collection: A small parcel of fine and mature Bordeaux shipped directly from the properties”. Our average price has gone up quite a bit.

bout 10 years ago a well-to-do lady said she wanted to buy a bottle of wine for a gentleman friend. She thought claret. “What sort of price were you thinking?” I asked. “Oh, I don’t know ... £80 or so.” Bah! At the time we went up to £30 and then stopped. I realised I may have been missing a trick so I bought a couple of cases of something nice at £75 a bottle and proudly put it on display in its handsome wooden boxes. I’d mentally written the cost off as fixtures and fittings. The next day a chap waltzed in and, admiring it, bought the whole damn lot.

After that I have always tried to keep at least a dozen bottles of a higher-value claret in the range. I know it will sell. Not always as quickly, but eventually. I may have gone a bit over the top now with 156 bottles and 12 magnums, but who knows? For the last three days the middle of the floor has been dominated by a pile of eight different clarets in wooden boxes ranging from £39 to £75 and some magnums of Château Bel-Air Pomerol 2010 – a snip at

I always keep at least half a dozen bottles of highervalue claret in the range. I know it will sell eventually

David’s claret prices range from £14 to about £50, but £25 is the mode

£80. Our regular £25 claret, also in wooden boxes, was offered at a good price so I have a pile of that as well. We look like a proper wine merchant now.

Given our normal rate of sale, that lot could last many years, but maybe it won’t. I figured that if it was on display well before, people would make a mental note and at Christmas it might sell. But it’s started already. We sold a magnum first. Then nine more bottles. That’s about 5% of it. In the space of three days I’ve gone from worrying I’ve got too much to thinking I may run out! Daniel Lambert said I would when he sold me it.

For the past 40-odd years I have always had a mantra in October and November: if you are not fretting that you have too much stock, you haven’t got nearly enough.

While on the subject of claret; some fun facts: “claret” is an English word. It is derived from the French “clairet” meaning light red. Light is comparative. At the time that the word was coined, Bordeaux rouge was fairly light in comparison to all the hefty red from north Africa which passed through the port of Bordeaux. It became the heavier, more exclusive wine we love now thanks to swingeing tariffs on the cheap, light stuff imposed by William III. More recently, when we were still on speaking terms with the EU, they tried to stop the use of the word “claret”. The rest of the world calls it Bordeaux Rouge. I don’t think they wanted to ban the use of the word entirely, just stop it being put on labels. To be fair it is only really own-labels, particularly those of Berry Bros, that would have been affected. It didn’t happen, mainly because the UK is possibly the biggest market for claret. For around 300 years, England ruled the Duchy of Aquitaine and that relationship has continued.

For more fun facts on the history of our relationship with claret, Henry Jeffreys’ short article, Liquid Lessons: the UK’s Bond with Bordeaux from March 2016 (bbr.com) is well worth a quick look.

? THE BURNING QUESTION

What’s your favourite type of wine glass?

�In store we use a brand called Open Up by Chef & Sommelier. These glasses are very robust and also make allowances cost-wise for the unfortunate fact that some of them might disappear at the end of the evening. I discovered my perfect tasting glasses in Bordeaux, a make called Sydonios. With these glasses you don’t even know you are drinking from something. The more beautiful the glass, the more they disappear.”

Yannick Loué

Le Vignoble, Plymouth

�I have always been a fan of Schott Zwiesel for their fineness and strength. In the bar we have started using Arcoroc Mineral wine glasses, which the customers really like. But we do seem to lose a fair few either to breakages or being nicked. At home I use a smaller Schott Zwiesel tasting glass which helps make the bottle last longer when I’m cooking dinner. A classic crystal spirits glass is a thing of beauty, and I have a few Delamain Cognac ones that I was involved in designing with Schott Zwiesel.”

Sean Welsh * Champagne winner * Flourish & Prosper, Howden

�My favourite glasses, which I use almost all the time at home, are Stolzle Power Wine Tumblers. I know all the reasons why wine tumblers aren’t ideal for wine, but in a house with small children and two dogs, they are perfect. Waggy tail proof, dishwasher friendly and great for an everyday bottle. I do have Riedel glasses for special occasions, but I default to the tumblers. I haven’t quite found the confidence to bring them into the bar yet, but maybe soon.”

Duncan Gammie

The Wee Vinoteca, Hitchin

�In our main shop for the retail side of tastings we use Spiegelau glassware. They’re a good size and look really smart for the customers. In the shop on a Friday night we stick to the standard ISO glassware which is sturdy and the right size for the event. It’s not worth using anything else when it’s getting washed constantly and needs to survive the sink. At home I really enjoy using Spiegelau for my personal glassware as it serves every purpose for me.”

Oli Gauntlett, Eynsham Cellars, Oxfordshire

David Perry is the owner of Shaftesbury Wines in Dorset

Champagne Gosset

The oldest wine house in Champagne: Äy 1584

DUNCAN MCLEAN

Northabout

Blame our sacred oak tree for the jaunty angle of our Spanish

red display

Our shop door opens onto a small courtyard, which connects to the street via a short kloss (to use a good old Orkney word) otherwise known as a vennel or lane.

In the middle of the courtyard is a threemetre-square garden, all that’s left of a backyard and vegetable patch that used to reach from the tenement on the street right down to the water’s edge. Going back four or five generations, barrels of wine and chests of tea were offloaded at a private pier down there. It wasn’t unusual: these days most of us have a goods entrance that a lorry can pull up to; in the 19th century freight came by sea, and every island shop had its own slipway.

In the middle of our miniature garden is a miniature oak tree. I’m not talking bonsai, but I am talking just seven or eight metres high, which is surprisingly modest for a tree over a century old. We know its age because the story of its planting has been passed down through the family. It was in the months after World War I ended that John Gorie and Mary Kirkness (who gave our shop its name) were sent a present from an upcountry friend: two pheasants wrapped in newspaper. Mary cut them open to prepare them for the pot, and found an acorn in the crop.

Over 106 years, the acorn she pressed into a flowerbed outside her backdoor has flourished, but only as high as the surrounding buildings. In Orkney, trees need shelter from human constructions if they’re going to survive the wind. I imagine it putting on a growth spurt over

a particularly warm summer, like the one we’ve just had, then feeling the blast as its top twigs peak above the surrounding rooves: “Thus far and no further! I’m quite happy being a quarter the height I could be!”

In the early 90s, my father-in-law extended our building, creating a square storeroom we now use for red wine stock. The shelves in one corner are awkward, because the corner is cut off: it’s a square room with a big diagonal chunk missing. My father-in-law loved the oak so much that he overruled the architect and insisted that nothing should be done to harm the roots of the tree outside in the courtyard. Hence why our Spanish reds sit at an annoying angle to their neighbours from France and Portugal.

This week we’ve been having some work done on the garden. The low stone dyke that surrounds it had decayed over the decades and become unsteady and potentially dangerous – especially to the

kids who like to run along it while their parents are inside shopping. We found a young stonemason, Kyle, who didn’t mind working on such a piddly wee job, and he took off the top two courses, then replaced them in a tighter formation, with mortar in between to hold everything in place. One of the stones he pulled off and didn’t reuse was a rounded lump of weathered red sandstone. Whenever these turn up in the town centre, you can be certain they’re leftovers from the building of St Magnus Cathedral opposite our shop, in the early 12th century. This kind of stone is found nowhere but on the small northern island of Eday, and it was shipped in specially by those early Christians to give their church extra awesome impact.

Kyle needed some small chips to level up the top slabs, so he cracked the red stone with his hammer, and half of it split into shards. Could I smell a whiff of gunpowder, or struck flint and find myself inescapably reminded of Pouilly-Fumé? Nope. No matter how hard I sniffed, all I got was dust up my nose and no smell at all.

Later that day, though, my friend Tracey came by to try and repair the damage done by my amateur gardening efforts over the summer. It turned out that most of my sins were ones of omission: I had omitted to remove lots of green leafy things that are officially, according to Tracey, classed as weeds. I find it hard to tell. I thought they were natural flowers.

In half an hour, she howked up dozens of things that shouldn’t have been there, and replaced them with dozens of new things that will bloom beautifully come spring, not minding that they’re overshadowed by a mighty eight-metre oak.

And now my olfactory fancies were finally given free rein. The turned-over earth provided a wonderful bouquet of aromas. The unmistakeable sous bois of aged Burgundy! The black earth of a sturdy Priorat! The green leafiness of peppery Chinon! Maybe I could get into gardening after all.

Could I smell a whiff of gunpowder and be reminded of Pouilly-Fumé?

Duncan McLean is proprietor of Kirkness & Gorie, Kirkwall

The story starts in 1918, with a pheasant

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Favourite Things

Cassie Butler-Gould

Butlers Wine Cellar

Brighton

Favourite wine on my list

Tequila has become my tipple of choice. If I was heading for wine, I’d opt for a bottle of the Walter Massa Timorasso Derthona or a nice oaked Chardonnay like Wild Boy from Au Bon Climat in California.

Favourite wine and food match

I don’t eat meat and cannot eat dairy so I would say the perfect pairing that I consume frequently is blanco tequila and tacos or any Mexican food. You really can’t beat a margarita with some lime and chilli-doused food.

Favourite wine trip

Rioja and then on to San Sebastián. It was quite the experience. We were taken out for lunch and drank so much that the host had his credit card taken away. I lost my jacket, tasted incredible wines and saw some amazing vineyards and wineries.

Favourite wine trade person

My husband, Henry Butler. He’s one of the best people you will ever meet, both in and outside of the trade. As a backup, let’s add Rupert from Taurus Wines, Guildford. He reached out to me when we had similar eye surgeries, and it meant a lot.

Favourite wine shop

Hennings, West Sussex, is amazing and Matthew Hennings is a brilliant person to go out for drinks with. Also, Palate Bottle Shop along the road in Shoreham is great.

Nicolas responds to French crisis

Nicolas, France’s oldest chain of wine stores, has announced a relaunch that will involve greater focus on cut-price bottles, alcohol-free wines and beer.

There will also be more sparkling wines, such as Prosecco, and cheap Champagne on sale at less than €30 a bottle.

The move is being viewed in France as indicative of the crisis in a wine sector reeling from disaffection with historic vineyards in regions such as Bordeaux. The Times, October 13

Wine fraudsters face jail terms

Three men who stole at least £6m from 41 victims in a fraudulent wine investment scheme have been jailed.

Benjamin Cazaly, Dominic D’Sa and Gregory Assemakis, all from London, were given prison terms by a judge at St Albans Crown Court.

All three were found guilty of fraudulent trading after an investigation by trading standards officers who said the fraud was run by a company called Imperial Wine & Spirits Merchant Ltd – previously Imperial Wines of London.

The company had been founded by Cazaly, in 2008, and claimed to be a familyrun investment house with offices in Paris and Hong Kong. In reality, it was a call centre in an office building in London.

BBC News, October 25

A jammier style of CyT bestseller

Chilean wine brand Casillero del Diablo is launching a new wine in the UK market, an easy-todrink red blend in the fast-growing sweeter style segment called Jammy Red Devil.

According to Concha y Toro, the “jammy” red blend category of sweeter styled reds has come from “almost a standing start” to around £200m in retail sales value now.

Brands controller at VCT Europe Claire Raine said that Casillero’s consumers had been telling the brand they would like to see a jammy wine in the range. The result is a blend of Shiraz and Carménère, which launches on November 3 in 300 Morrisons stores nationwide.

The Drinks Business, October 22

TOP STORIES IN OCTOBER

B English wine pioneer Peter Hall dies

C Catena makes the switch to Enotria

D German wine harvest hits 15-year low

E Good Wine Good People acquires Plonk

F Alcohol-free trailblazer signs up with Boutinot

Cheaper Champagne for Nicolas customers

Vineyards in Sonoma

Hybrid vines cope with Pierce’s peril

Pierce’s disease, accelerated by climate change, is spreading among California vineyards.

Winemaker Adam Tolmach is pioneering the use of hybrid grapes bred specifically to resist Pierce’s disease without the use of pesticides.

Syrah, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel have been replaced with Paseante Noir, Walker Red, Ambulo Blanc and Caminante Blanc, the new varieties which were officially released six years ago.

Tolmach said: “Free from the constraints of fragile, high-maintenance varieties, we can grow these grapes organically, with no spraying and no crutches. That means

healthier vineyards, more vibrant soils and wines that are shaped more by terroir than by chemistry or convention.”

Los Angeles Times, October 27

Virgin happy with flatlining sales

Despite a shrinking online drinks market and rising duties, Virgin Wines has maintained revenue at £59m, while strengthening its balance sheet and increasing investment in growth.

The group has reported revenue of £59m for the year ended June 28, unchanged from the previous year. This performance comes against the backdrop of a contracting online drinks market and inflationary pressures.

Chief executive Jay Wright reported that maintaining stability in such an environment reflects the strength of the business model. “We’ve had a good year in a declining market,” he said. “We’ve kept our revenue steady year on year, and we continue to be cash-generative, which builds a really healthy balance sheet.”

The Drinks Business, October 24 corkage independent merchants know that intruders are targeting their stores. security needs to be taken very

QUIZ TIME

With Flying Füchs

1. What does the G in DOCG on an Italian wine label stand for?

2. Until the 1990s, much of the wine labelled as Merlot in Chile was confused with which other variety?

3. Who is credited with the line “wine is bottled poetry”? (a) Charles Dickens (b) Philip Larkin (c) Robert Louis Stevenson?

4. In port production, barrels are usually referred to by what name?

5. In Succession, Connor Roy’s “hyper-decanting” trick involves what household appliance? (a) blender (b) dishwasher (c) microwave

Answers on page 79

the western front

Golborne Wine & Deli now takes its place among Notting Hill’s most beloved institutions. Yet only five or so years ago, it all looked very different, and wine was not a significant part of its mix. That all changed during Covid when its owners snapped up the next-door unit.

Graham Holter has a nice lunch before being shown around by Sam Heathcote

Notting Hill just can’t help itself. On a weekday summer lunchtime, it’s so effortlessly cool, so unselfconsciously multiracial, so lacking in the exhaust fumes and sirens and litter that define many of London’s postcodes that you just want to sit down and take it all in.

That’s exactly what people are doing on Golborne Road, a bustling street of cafés and shops with Portobello Road at one end and Ernő Goldfinger’s brutalist Trellick Tower at the other.

Walk into the deli section of Golborne Fine Wine & Deli and you can expect to be greeted like an old friend before finding a seat outside and taking your time over your bagel or salad.

For the first phase of its life, the business was focused on food, Melburnian Sam Heathcote explains. The fact that his job title is wine buyer and sommelier gives some strong clues about what happened next.

“Georgi [Proykov] and his business partner, Aleks [Loncar], bought the deli 16 years ago,” he says, “and started operating as a café: breakfast, brunch, lunch, coffees, open from 7am to 4pm with an allday menu. They introduced alcohol a little bit later but it was never a massive part of the business.”

The partners acquired the neighbouring unit in 2015, with the plan of expanding the deli. “But when Covid happened this effectively became a really expensive storage space,” Sam says.

Dennis Drazan Sunjic at Liberty Wines was one of the suppliers who suggested that the business pivot towards wine sales while the pandemic played out, so it could continue to trade.

At the time, Sam was on furlough from his job in fine dining. “I was going a bit stir crazy, so when I told Dennis that I needed to get out of the house, he said, ‘two mates of mine just opened a wine shop, and they probably need someone to give it a bit of direction’.”

Today, wine sales account for about half of all turnover.

What was it like in the wine shop in the early days?

The first two years here were crazy. Just the three of us sitting here every day selling bottles. Some of the numbers that we did were nuts.

Originally the idea was that it would be a segue for me to go back into corporate, but after a month, I sat down with George and Aleks, and I said, “I love the place. I think it’s got huge potential. I’m very happy here and I want to stay.” One thing led to another, and here we are five years later.

The business has gone from strength to strength. I think a lot of that’s to do with the fact that Golborne Deli had already got a very loyal customer base. This is quite an affluent area, and we just needed to convert a bit of that loyal customer base into wine drinkers – or realise who the wine drinkers were.

“The first two years here were crazy. Just the three of us sitting here every day selling bottles. Some of the numbers that we did were nuts”

How long after you converted it were you sure it was going to stand on its own two feet?

Realistically after 12 months. Aleks and Georgi were both adamant that they didn’t want to look too much into numbers within the first year.

We had the luxury of having the deli next door, which was already profitable. As long as I wasn’t completely out of control in terms of spending and expanding the selection … there were only the three of us, so our wage overheads weren’t massive.

After 12 months we’d broken even with maybe a little bit of profit, but nothing crazy. In that year we’d probably tripled our range from the original 80 or 90 references.

Was that mainly Liberty stuff to start with?

Yes and Liberty is probably still our biggest supplier, but I started to mix things up with some smaller suppliers such as VineTrail and Astrum. More

Sam Heathcote came to London from Melbourne

lo-fi wines … I don’t like using the word natural, so let’s say smaller production, less intervention and sustainably farmed wines.

When I select wine, I ask myself: is the juice good? Does it show varietal typicity and have a sense of place? Is it good quality-to-price ratio and will it resonate with our customers?

How do the two parts of the business work together?

It’s a proper hybrid business. Now it’s a wine shop and wine bar. We utilise this space during the winter for people having breakfast and brunch, and sometimes those people convert into wine sales. And it’s the same next door – they feed off each other.

We’ve got all these different revenue streams so it means we’re not so reliant on one. I think it would be hard to have just a wine shop that didn’t have a wine bar. The natural evolution of the business means that we get repeat custom with people coming in multiple times a week and sometimes multiple times a day. They’ll come in for a coffee in the morning, and they’ll come in for a wine at night. It’s the sort of DNA of the two places.

“We’re still really focused on our price points. The reality is people are still very price sensitive around here”

How many people work here on the wine side of things?

We sort of mix it up because the roles used to be very separate. My idea was to get people that could easily work on both sides. Although a large part of our revenue during the day comes from the deli side of things, especially on weekends, if you can sell the occasional glass of wine on a Saturday or a Sunday while someone’s having their poached eggs, then so much the better.

We have Frankie [Merlo] who joined us towards the end of Covid. He’s taken that sense of ownership that I think everyone here does. That’s really important to us because what keeps the customers coming back is personalities. Frankie and I are fulltime and we have one full-time chef and we’ve got four casuals.

This is an affluent area. Is that reflected in what customers are happy to pay?

It’s not like they’ll pay anything and we can sell anything. We’re still really focused on our price points. Our entry for wine by the glass is around £7 or £8. We have got some things like Meursault and second-growth Bordeaux on the Coravin at around £30 a glass. But the reality is people are still very price sensitive around here. We’re not at the southern end of Notting Hill. We’re not on Westbourne Grove, and we’re acutely aware of that.

Do you offer discounts?

People come in here a lot and ask if we do discounts on cases, and this and that. We’re just very honest and we explain we’re an independent and we don’t do discounts. The government’s not making life any easier with wages going up, with National Insurance contributions, not to mention all the other overheads.

But we do really take care of our regulars – those guys who come in weekly or daily. We’re very generous with them because that’s really important. We give them the occasional bottle or glass, or food.

How much do you charge for corkage?

We charge a flat rate of £15 a bottle, no matter if it’s a premier cru at £125 or a Fiano from Sicily, you just pay £15 to drink in. Obviously that takes into account wages and glassware.

We want people to understand the value. Having a background in hotels and corporate, you realise that you put these wine lists together and you put stupid

Sam with co-owner Georgi Proykov

Trellick Tower is just down the road

margins on them, because the accounts department is expecting 85% or 90% GP, and that’s just not sustainable. As a result you’re going to have a lot of wine just sitting around gathering dust.

That’s exactly the opposite of what we want to do here. We want to sell everything and have high turnover and that allows us to have a much more dynamic selection.

How often do you mix up the range?

We make seasonal changes, so every three months about 70% of the range will change. But we’re always chopping and changing. Every month or two, there’s two or three new wines.

What kind of stuff has proved popular?

Chilled red. As an Australian, that’s something I’ve always drunk but it’s definitely taken off over here in the past couple of years. We’ve got a Grolleau from the Loire at the moment and a gently extracted Saperavi from Georgia. We always have a couple on the go, plus bottles. We always have an orange wine by the glass, but when people ask for an orange wine there is no thought process of which orange wine and how long was it macerated. But we do sell a lot of orange wine.

Do you change the way you display the wines? Because I’d never had any retail experience, when

“Every three months about 70% of the range will change. But we’re always chopping and changing”

I originally started to put the selection together and organise the shelves, I basically laid it out how I’d been taught to lay out a wine list. So it was by colour and then geographically.

In France, for example, you start in the north east in Alsace, and then you work in a sort of clockwise direction, effectively, around France. So you go from Alsace to Jura to Burgundy, to northern Rhône, southern Rhône, Languedoc, and then you come up south west: Bordeaux, Loire. Italy’s more north to south. Australia’s west to east, like you would read a book.

Just last week, we changed our orange selection so our orange skin contact and pét nat selection are all in one spot rather than spread by country. It was Frankie’s idea because people ask where the orange wine is, so instead of saying “it’s there, there, and over there”, it’s all in one place.

Are you excited by wines from eastern Europe?

Definitely. Georgi is from Bulgaria and Aleks is from continental Croatia and we’ve just started to

A lot of orange wine is sold – and it’s always available by the glass

bring in a couple of things from there. It’s a super-exciting area because historically that’s the heartland of ex-Yugoslavian wine production. But I think now if you speak to anyone in the wine industry, they would say that if we think about Croatia, we think about Istria, and probably the Dalmatian coast. But there’s amazing wine coming from the continental part – the bit that’s wedged between Hungary, Serbia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

We’ve started importing Graševina, otherwise known as Welschriesling, the most widely planted variety in in Croatia. Part of the business that we’re going to start to expand is bringing in wines from our home nations of Croatia, Australia and Bulgaria.

Will that be to sell here or will those wines be going to your wholesale accounts?

We’re quite conservative in our growth and we’re lucky that we’ve got a route to market straight away so we can bring in pallets because we know we can sell them here. We’ve got a couple of wholesale

“In the warmer months, drinking in is probably 70% or 80%. In winter, it almost flips on its head”

accounts, and that’s definitely a part of the business we’re looking to expand.

How much of the wine turnover comes from drinking in?

In the warmer months, it’s probably 70% or 80% on-trade. In winter, it almost flips on its head. From the end of daylight savings, we don’t get the gazebos out, so we lose seating capacity but we have a lot more retail.

We are at maximum capacity with the deli. On a weekend we might do 500 covers for breakfast or brunch out of that tiny kitchen. And there’s takeaway with people getting coffees and everything else; you couldn’t physically do any more.

With the wine, we’ve seen growth. And you do have potential for people spending £500 or £1,000 on wine. Not that it happens often, but occasionally we’ll sell some first growth Bordeaux or grand cru Burgundy. People come in and buy a few cases and we deliver locally.

The deli is in the neighbouring unit to the wine shop

What we’ve learned is that the hybrid business model is really important. It’s having all of those revenue streams in place. We’re open from 7.30am until 10pm, seven days a week. Apart from Notting Hill Carnival and Christmas Day, we’re open. And I think that’s an important part of the business as well, because people know that they can come here whatever day and have a coffee or have a glass of wine. You’re paying rent anyway, I mean, it’s not like your rent stops when you close for a Monday.

Do you get reps coming to you all the time, or do you manage to get out and about to tastings? A bit of both. Frankie goes to a lot of tastings. I try to but it’s a bit complicated now because I’ve got a four-month-old at home, so you have to pull the handbrake up a little bit. A lot of our account managers are people that I’ve had relationships with for a long time, and we’re lucky in the respect that a lot of them come to us now. They want to have their wines on the shelves. We probably have at least two, three tastings a week minimum.

Tell us more about the neighbourhood.

Georgi: It’s really moving in an upwards direction. Everybody seems to want to find property on Golborne Road. There have been some massive developments behind us, which has helped. But the rents … because everybody wants to be in these stores, people are starting to charge ridiculous rents, which is going to hit us at some point.

I think the positive is that there are a few council-owned premises to let and they are very careful who they put in. They don’t necessarily accept the highest payer because they want to keep the range of independent shops in the high street. For example there’s a property just been let out to a tea shop and I know for a fact there were about 35 different people applying for that premises, but there wasn’t already a tea shop.

Sam: People ask us if nearby restaurants like Straker’s affect our business, and I’d say yes – it brings more people to us. They don’t take reservations, so we get a lot of people coming here for a drink while they wait. Sometimes in a night we can turn the table up to eight times – just two glasses of Champagne, it’s 30 quid, and they’re gone in 20 minutes.

At the weekends it’s Portobello market, so we’re lucky with footfall. I think we’re in a really fortunate position that Golborne Road is becoming

Georgi comes from Bulgaria; fellow owner Aleks is Croatian

a foodie destination with Straker’s, Canteen and Caia up the road.

Could you replicate this elsewhere in London?

I think we could, but you’d have to be really specific about your site selection. We did have a look at a site down towards Holland Park, and it was perfect. It had all the sort of same ingredients. We ended up missing out. But it ticked a lot of boxes in terms of the size and rent, and in terms of the location. We’re still in the process of looking for a second site.

Would you still call it Golborne Wine & Deli, or name it after the street?

“We’re open from 7.30am until 10pm, seven days a week. People know that they can come here whatever day and have a coffee or a glass of wine”

I think that’s site dependent. If we got something on Broadway Market in east London for example … if it already had a name, maybe we would keep that but add “deli” or “wine”. I like the idea of if that’s where you are, why not call it that? It’s a conversation we continually have. Golborne Deli feels like a brand in itself. Even prior to Georgi and Aleks being here, for 23 years it’s been like a centre point for the community: artists and locals coming here to drink coffee and chat, to just shoot the shit, and it still feels like that now.

ROB HOULT

Another Thing

When I can buy English wine cheaper at the cellar door, something is wrong

I’m sat typing this in Charles de Gaulle airport having just spent a lovely couple of days in Champagne. An area that is pretty much too far north for regular wine production and is prey to the fickle vagaries of weather a bit more than other wine growing areas of France.

In that sense it has a lot in common with our sceptred isle, although the Champenoise are a little wiser to the idea that still wine is a little on the tricky side. The reason that I’m writing about English wine, again, is not because I’ve been enjoying Champagne and thus feel a need to do a bit of Brit wine bashing. It’s more to do with an email I received the other week.

sale they can. Then I had a longer think and my opinion changed to the idea that it’s more stupidity than greed.

I get that the UK wine scene is still relatively young and small producers really need to find as much money from as many sources as possible to keep the wheels turning. But you’ve really got to grasp the incredibly simple concept of market price. So my issue isn’t that Bancroft are trying to sell the wine to me at too high a price – my beef is with the producer for not setting their own price higher.

Bancroft Wines let me know that they had recently taken on a new English wine agency, and for some reason I read the email all the way down to the pricing. It wasn’t unreasonable as such, but I thought I would do what I normally do when looking at the price of English wines and check the producer’s own website.

One wine, a dry rosé, was listed by Bancroft at £12.50 ex VAT. The producer, Nutbourne, had it on their website at the princely sum of £15 a bottle including VAT. I know we can all do the simple maths on that one. At first I’m thinking about how greedy some people are trying to get every

My beef is with the producer for not setting their own price higher

They obviously want to get as many customers for their wine as possible and don’t want to lose out on precious profit. But if they put up the price on their own website and set a sensible market price, they then make extra cash margin – and anyone who does buy the wine from Bancroft can sell it at a price that is in line and make a decent margin.

This very simple thing is an easy double win for the winery, so why do so many miss it? I’m going to go back to my initial stupidity comment.

English wineries aren’t the first to get this wrong. During the great gin boom of the 2010s I had a long chat with Toby from Whittaker’s Gin. I loved his gins but, based on the price he sold them to me, if I wanted to make a margin that was higher than 11% POR then I would have to sell them for more than he did.

I told him he had a terrific product and

his website should really be the place where the gin is actually a little pricier. This seemed like a very alien concept but it is one that our local craft brewer, Magic Rock (when it was still owned by its very lovely founder and hadn’t been driven to bankruptcy by some very, very daft new owners) sold their beers at a price that was very easy to match or even significantly undercut.

They understood that they wanted other shops and bars to stock their beers and not have hordes of Yorkshire folk shouting “How much!!” If those same folk were paying more at the Magic Rock tap-room, well, they were at the source of the magic, and they were happy, as they were only paying the price set by the creator of this wonderful liquid.

I did a quick scan through a couple of dozen English wine producers’ websites and size seems to be an issue with pricing, though not always. Sell the Boutinotowned Henners at the same price that the winery does and you’ll achieve 34% POR. The Symington-owned Hambledon gets you 37% POR. Whereas the very small Davenport Vineyards is 6%, and the well renowned Gusbourne gives you a paltry 15% POR on its rosé.

I’ve drawn two conclusions from my website wanderings. Firstly, if you have an agent and they are doing what you pay them to do, then don’t muck about trying to sell it yourself. Truly follow the big Champagne names and trust the supply network to do what it does – you can’t buy a bottle of Pol on their website, for example.

Secondly, English wine may actually be underpriced. Now that may seem a bit of a wild statement, but making wine in England, or Wales for that matter, is no easy business. The costs involved are sky high and it really should be viewed as a super-premium product with a price tag that reflects this. Set the market price high, make the best possible wine and find the best possible route to market.

Rob Hoult owns Hoults Wine Merchants in Huddersfield

Numanthia a new vision of an old land

In an online masterclass for indies, Martin Derrier explains how Bodega Numanthia is crafting some of Toro’s most harmonious and approachable wines from its treasury of ancient vineyards

Imagine being presented with 100 vineyard plots and asked to blend the fruit they produce into a single wine. And not just any wine: something that can change perceptions of a region, earn rave reviews from critics and command a retail price of around £50.

This is the challenge facing Jesus Jimenez, technical director of Bodega Numanthia, and his team in Toro, north west Spain. It’s one of the rare parts of Europe where phylloxera isn’t a concern – the soils are too sandy – so the vines that Numanthia works with are old and

ungrafted, with an average age of 80 years. The oldest plot dates back more than two centuries. It’s Tinta de Toro country, the local name for Tempranillo, and if you know what you’re doing you can work wonders with this small, thick-skinned, early-ripening variety.

Numanthia is actually “a very small boutique winery”, sales and marketing director Martin Derrier explains, and set up as recently at 1998. But it’s now a sister company of Dom Pérignon, Krug, Château d’Yquem and Cheval Blanc, having been acquired in 2008 by LVMH. Why did such a

group invest in an obscure Toro producer?

The answer, in a nutshell, is the treasury of centenarian vines it owns and manages –and their potential for very special wines.

“Two centuries is exceptionally old, and the vines have very low yields,” Martin says. “You don’t go to Toro to make millions of bottles. The way we work is not scalable. It’s super-meticulous; it’s all by hand. The purpose is to craft the best wine. There is no pressure at all for volume. We’re just asked to do our best, to craft the most complex, the most timeless, wine – and that is what we put all our efforts into.”

The Toro landscape is too extreme for phylloxera, so vines are ungrafted

The locals who originally planted the vines understood that the plants needed to survive in a landscape of poor soils and very low rainfall. The vineyards they created were of “superlow density”, says Martin: “It’s crazy – you can have three metres between one plant and another”. Roots can go down several metres as the vines strain for moisture and nutrients.

He adds: “We manage a vineyard of 160 hectares, so about half of the total, and the rest is small plots that belong to families that are part of the new Numanthia project. We know them very well, and for many of them it’s their family heritage; something that belonged to their grandfathers.

“One farmer just sold us a hectare: a very, very nice hectare. It’s priceless. And he was sad because he was telling us, ‘I was harvesting this plot when I was six years old’. He’s 82 now, but his son has now moved to Madrid, and you can’t run a business with one hectare. But he was very happy that we’ll be preserving this heritage. We work a lot with growers that have a very small plots spread all around the appellation.”

Historically, the vineyards have been run organically but not all have yet achieved certification. That’s on course to change, and it’s part of some wider sustainability projects involving biodiversity, reforestation and renewable energy.

“It’s a huge responsibility to take care of this land. We are trying to showcase

not only these unique patrimonial old vines, but also the Spanish heritage that embodies Toro,” Martin says.

All of which is laudable, but it would count for little if the wines themselves were dull. And that is an accusation that nobody has levelled at them.

Numanthia is blended from 52 separate vinifications from eight terroir types. “We are quite bold,” says Martin. “We are trying to push the boundaries. We have a modern approach, but an authentic approach.

“We are maybe a bit different from the mainstream style, as we are holding bottles for several years before release. Some of the wineries in Spain are tending towards an early release. We do our best to craft the most harmonious wine.”

Ancient bush vines are dry farmed

TASTING THE 2019 VINTAGE

Numanthia 2019 comes from a vintage that was dry apart from some summer storms that provided a little welcome moisture. After a four-day cold soak, there was a seven-day fermentation and extended maceration on skins with soft pigeage. Malolactic took place in stainless steel, followed by 16 months in new and second-use barrels – a mixture of barriques and 400-litre sizes.

Bottling took place in July 2021, and the wines were released in the summer of 2024.

“We have been on a journey of stylistic evolution,” Martin says. “Less wood-invasive … and basically hands-off. We are trying to get far away from those full bodied, very technical, very structured wines and make a much more enjoyable wine.

“We still want a backbone that has spiciness and texture. But we also have very gentle ageing in wood, and you will see that it’s much more balanced and really well integrated.”

We taste the wine. “It’s so refined,” Martin says, taking his first sip. “You don’t have coconut or vanilla aromas, which are typical in Rioja due to American barrels. On the palate, it’s spicy, with white pepper, a bit of balsamic, and also a bit of menthol. It’s super-nice and super-long. In the mouth, everything is very precise, and the alcohol is not overwhelming.”

The wines are intended to provide enjoyment on release, but can also age superbly. Acidity is naturally low, but the tannins and alcohol give Numanthia a longevity that can often be measured in decades.

In association with Bodega Numanthia Wines are available in the UK from Moët Hennessy or leading suppliers such as Enotria and Ellis of Richmond

The Bodega Numanthia team

CAT BRANDWOOD

The Long Run

The wines at our local pubs are a mixed bag. But we’re winning on the meat raffle

Over the summer I’ve had the opportunity to enjoy my Friday nights. For the first time since moving to Winchester I’ve been able to take part in that British institution of the Friday night pub. In the interest of science, or at least in the interest of sharing the love amongst local businesses, my friends and I started a spreadsheet. A spreadsheet with the purpose of finding the best pub in Winchester.

So, what are our findings? Well, unlike other spreadsheets we have created (I am starting to think that we should get some more hobbies), this one has at least been vaguely successful. Have we used the marking criteria? Absolutely not. Have we at least toured the pubs of Winchester? Largely, yes.

Towards the end of each week, as Friday once again rolls around, someone gets the random number generator out and that dictates our Friday night adventure. Our scoring criteria (woefully underused)

includes everything from location and price to the quality of the snacks.

I decreed that to properly assess the quality of the drinks I was going to drink a glass of Chardonnay in every pub, but this turned out to be more difficult than expected. Did you know that many pubs now do not have a Chardonnay on the menu? I’m sad to see that the ABC crowd seem to have finally got their way.

Of the pubs that served Chardonnay to me there were only two that I wouldn’t drink again (note to the ABC crowd), one which was so lifeless it may as well have been a cheap Pinot Grigio blend, the other an Australian brand at 11%

which, unsurprisingly at that ABV, had a bit of residual sugar in it. The latter, however, came in at £17.50 a bottle which is astonishing value in a pub setting (but really does remind me why I should drink wine at home instead).

A friend paid £37 for a bottle of perfectly average Picpoul in our former local last summer, and this was the point that we realised we needed a new local. None of my summer pub Chardonnays have been this expensive, and they’ve certainly been more interesting wines.

So, which pub are we crowning the winner? That is a little more nuanced. The pub with the worst Chardonnay and a slightly dodgy reputation went down very well with us in the end, just don’t drink the wine and avoid at all costs the stag do that insisted on buying us shots of Tequila Rose to apologise for the groom. The pub with the best Chardonnay we drank was too far away to become our local (a half an hour walk may as well be a trip to the moon in a city this size) although it’s well worth going back for the blue cheese and buffalo hot sauce chicken burger.

The favourite so far, unsurprisingly, is the new local. It has a beautiful beer garden surrounded by the river on three sides, and a meat raffle on which, between us, we have a 70% win rate – and although it doesn’t serve a Chardonnay, its Viognier fills the gap. It’s nice to see a wine list that is arranged by flavour profile rather than the WSET Level 2 exam. It’s also priced like they actually want people to come back.

There are still a good few places for us to visit, so a definitive answer has not yet been reached, but it’s been fun. We’ve discovered some great pubs that hadn’t really been on our radar (for no good reason other than laziness) and we’ve tried our way through a lot of different wine in, let’s face it, the best beer garden weather we’ve had in my memory.

I was going to drink a glass of Chardonnay in every pub, but this turned out to be more difficult than expected

As winter rolls in, though, I suspect a cosy red while curled up on my sofa will be the new Friday pub. After my Chardonnay summer, my wallet could do with a rest

Cat Brandwood is head of private client sales at The Naked Grape

A Portugal road trip

Six independent merchants were invited by Wines of Portugal on a whirlwind tour covering the regions of Lisboa, Tejo, Dão, the Douro and Vinhos Verdes.

Graham Holter went along for the ride

Day 1

Casa Santos Lima is a great place to get our Portuguese bearings. It’s a familyowned business, dating back to the 19th century, with its roots in Lisboa – the first region on our itinerary. But about 15 years ago it started to expand into other areas, meaning that we’re also tasting wines from the Douro, Dão, Vinhos Verdes, Alentejo and the Açores. The grapes are always vinified where they’re grown. In fact in Lisboa alone, Casa Santos Lima works from three wineries.

It farms about 400ha of unirrigated Lisboa vines, and has 50 or so varieties to play with. Most of its output is exported, with North South Wines and Marta Vine its two main UK partners.

The harvest is coming in and, as in many parts of Portugal, it’s expected to be smaller, thanks to a month-long heatwave. But quality is looking good.

It’s a free-pour tasting and some of us kick off with the impressive No Limite alcohol-free range. The white is definitely more vinous than many of its peer group and the red is even more impressive. The best compliment we can pay is that it tastes like a red wine.

Day 2

We wake up at Quinta da Lapa, one of the oldest estates in Tejo – a region that The Wine Merchant has visited on several occasions. The property spans 72ha and there are 25 varieties grown on the clay and limestone soils, where you’ll also encounter seashells. Our host is Sílvia Canas da Costa, a talented architect who reimagined her father’s estate to include a

hotel and modern winery.

A collection of Tejo winemakers has assembled and each is presenting three of its wines.

It’s a great opportunity to take stock of a region which has become increasingly confident in its ability to make wines that aren’t merely crowd-pleasers, but have genuine personality. International varieties have long had a role to play here, but it’s striking that many producers we meet are putting more faith in native grapes. Fernão Pires, Verdelho, Alvarinho and Arinto lead the charge for the whites; among the reds, Castelão, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Aragonês (the local name for Tempranillo) are the stand-out varieties. The visiting merchants are impressed.

After a refreshing glass of Quinta da Lapa’s Nana Blanc de Blancs – a traditionalmethod blend of Arinto and Fernão Pires – it’s time for lunch. And then we’re on our way.

In the afternoon we head north to the Dão, where we’re visiting Quinta dos Carvalhais. We’re driven around the 105ha estate in a pick-up, some of us cheerfully standing on the back to get a sense of our surroundings, which include a forest and a lake.

Dão, we’re reminded, is rather like a nest. Mountains to the east shield it from Spanish heat blasts; mountains to the west act as a shelter from Atlantic rain; and mountains to the north offer some respite from cold winds.

The estate has been owned by Sogrape since 1988, a business which began life as a Douro winery in 1942 but is now Portugal’s biggest producer, taking a

Buying trip in association with

majority stake in Liberty Wines in 2019. But we sense the team here focuses on small details rather than size.

It turns out that Encruzado thrives in these parts. Not so long ago, plantings of this variety – which can make some of Portugal’s most elegant and exciting white wines – were down to just 8ha. Now, thanks in no small measure to what Quinta dos Carvalhais has achieved, the area under vine tops 800ha, and single-varietal wines are now welcomed under DOC rules.

Our tasting line-up includes a 2023 Encruzado, which is fresh and zesty, with notes of stone fruit and sesame. It’s a hit with the group; no wonder winemaker Beatriz Cabral de Almeida is keen to plant more. “In Portugal we’re known as good blenders and the grape varieties complement each other,” she says. “When you only have one grape variety for a wine, it’s more challenging. So we have a lot of plantings of the same grape variety spread all over the property.

We have vineyards near the lake and some near the forest, in soil that’s more granitic, or more sandy, or has more clay.

“Having Encruzado in lots of areas means we have different textures and aromas.”

Day 3

It’s time to explore the Douro and our first stop is Quinta do Vallado. It’s a spectacular setting, and we clamber inside a 1978 Land Rover (with no brakes, it turns

out) for a bumpy ride to the top of the estate. At 550m we have spectacular views of the river, and of the motorway that now connects this part of the world with Porto. Vallado was one of the original Douro Boys – a grouping of producers set up in 2003 to make the case for the region’s emerging still wine scene. João Alvares Ribeiro informs us of the local saying that summarises the local weather: “three months of winter, nine months of hell”. Add to that the steep terraces and some of the lowest yields in the winegrowing world –5.6 tonnes per hectare for young vines, and just 3.2 tonnes for older ones – and it’s a wonder any wine gets made here at all.

Field blends are the norm at Vallado, with 20 or 30 varieties typical for a single vineyard. The grapes are vinified together, but care must be taken during harvesting: for example, Tinta Roriz is a famously early-ripening variety.

João says it’s been a steep learning curve for winemakers in the Douro as they diversify away from purely port production. There’s an assumption that still wines will be heavy and rich, but the style at Vallado has always been for fresh whites with moderate alcohol and low-extraction reds. It seems clear from the group’s reaction to the wines that there’s business to be done.

After lunch on a shady patio we cross the river and head north to Quinta da Pedra Alta, in the highest part of the Cima Corgo subregion. The Douro may no longer be visible, but the landscapes are no less stunning. The quinta itself is perched

International varieties have long had a role to play, bit it’s striking that many producers we meet are putting more faith in native grapes

on a terrace from which the beauty of the surrounding hills can be properly appreciated.

The estate dates back to the 18th century and focused on port production until being taken over in 2018 (by Ed Woodward, formerly Manchester United executive vice chairman).

Winemaker João Pires leads us on a tour of the vines, pointing out the granite markers, known as feitoria, that were put in place in the 1700s to demarcate the port region. It’s thought to be the only producer to have three of these on its property.

Most of the wines we taste are available through Walker & Wodehouse. The whites are racy and mineral, showcasing the versatility of varieties such as Rabigato, Gouveio and Viosinho. The reds, always made to be enjoyed with food, have concentration as well as elegance. “The winemaking is so precise and clean,” says Jonathan Cocker of Martinez Wines. João acknowledges the compliment, adding that a pet peeve of his is Touriga Nacional made in a “pornographic” style.

The visit ends in the best possible way –white port and tonic on the terrace – and then we’re back on the bus.

The final visit of the day is to Wine & Soul,

a project established in 2001 by husbandand-wife team Jorge Serôdio Borges and Sandra Tavares da Silva. At their modest – but remarkably well-equipped – winery, they specialise in single-vineyard wines that express the nuances of the Douro terroir.

Sandra says the couple met while working for Niepoort, and left to pursue their dream of making their own wines from old vines. They started acquiring ancient plots, and bought a winery where we can now inspect a porcelain amphora, a glass wine globe and robotic lagares.

Sandra exudes a calmness that we also sense in her wines, which can be found on the shelves of Tanners and Corney & Barrow. For Wine & Soul, the land, rather than the grape variety, takes precedence: the wines may come from as many as 22 plots, picked and fermented separately, from vines that are more than 100 years old.

Gratifyingly, the market recognises that this sort of effort deserves a fair price.

“The amount of effort and cost involved in protecting these vineyards is huge,” Sandra says.

“To be sustainable and to protect these vineyards … there is a cost. It was hard in the first few years of selling Guru [a signature white blend]. But now it’s a wine

Kat Bloxham Theatre of Wine, London

Wine & Soul and Quinta da Lapa stood out, not only for their stunning locations but also for their consistency in making balanced and interesting wines. This trip hasn’t necessarily changed my view of Portugal, as it was already on the radar for its good value and pockets of real excellence. But it has given me a greater understanding of the grape varieties and their purpose in each blend – and shown just how good the wines can be at all levels.

that we sell out of three or four months after release.”

Sandra is excited about what’s still to come from Wine & Soul, and Portugal generally. “It’s more complicated here but it’s more fun and we still have so much to learn,” she says. “We have so much to play with. With field blends, nature balances the different grapes. We don’t have to control everything.”

Day 4

The drive northwards into Vinhos Verdes means crossing the Serra do Marão mountains. You instantly understand why the region is so called: the landscape is lush and verdant, a stark contrast to the parched terraces of the Douro.

We’re en route to Quinta do Ameal in the Lima valley, one of Vinhos Verdes’ nine subregions. It’s an old estate, owned by Esporão, where the Loureiro grape holds sway. The soil is granite, but the percentage varies across the various parcels.

There’s a distinctive aroma in the air as we walk between the vines and crush some of the fennel and mint that’s planted there. As well as reintroducing nutrients into the soil, these herbs are thirsty for water – useful in a region which has seven times more rain than southern Portugal.

Before and during lunch we try several wines from Esporão’s other Portuguese projects in the Douro and Alentejo, but of course the stars of the show are always going to be the local heroes.

Bico Amarelo sees Alvarinho and Avesso blended with Loureiro and it’s a cleansing, citrus-tinged wine that’s perfect as an aperitif. Ameal Loureiro is just as pure and vibrant, but seven months of lees contact adds complexity that will only intensify over time.

Geraldine Shearer

Cellar Door Wines, St Albans

Jonathan

Cocker

While each region and winery had its own unique character, across the board I could feel the people’s passion for their grapes, the land and the history of winemaking in their region. All the producers we met wanted the wine to tell the story of the land. I have had an evergrowing appreciation for Portuguese wines over the years but this trip allowed me to see behind the curtain a bit. Walking the land and tasting the native grapes in many variations gave me a starting point to understand them. I greatly respect the long line of people that have held onto and protected the older vines and grape varieties that speak of Portugal's heritage. I truly believe that is the way forward for Portuguese wines – it is a precious gift .

Martinez

Wines,

West Yorkshire

The quality of the wines was at a pretty high standard across the board so it was a case of picking out what offered the best value, what was needed or would sell. But sometimes it was a case of, “god, I just have to buy this”.

Tejo for me was a new region and I was impressed by the quality of the wines.

One wine that stood out was from Wine & Soul: the Manoella red with its dark fruit and spice and 16 months of French oak integrated beautifully. I have enquired about shipping this one. The Douro valley intrigued me the most: it is simply breathtaking, with a varied offering of both whites and reds. There is something for everybody.

The wine of the trip for me was Quinta dos Carvalhais Especial White NV, which is not really NV but a multi-vintage gem –seven vintages in all, spending eight years

Marc Hough

Cork of the North, Manchester

This fantastic trip confirmed to me once again just how much quality there is to be found in Portuguese wines – and that they remain unbeatable value for money. Our retail customers’ interest and knowledge of Portuguese wines increases year on year, and we have also seen annual increases in sales. In fact, we now sell more wines from Portugal than we do wines from Spain – which is simply incredible – and is mainly fuelled by the enduring popularity of Vinhos Verdes.

The skills and passion we saw from all the wineries we visited was clear to see, and whilst it is difficult – and probably unfair – to pick out individual producers, a special mention must go to Wine & Soul, whose winemaking is akin to alchemy. Quinta do Vallado and Quinta dos Carvalhais also impressed me, and I plan to start listing wines from both of those producers. I also plan to start working with Quinta da Pedro Alta, whose white port was exceptional. Obrigado!

in barrel. It’s made with local grapes, plus Semillon. The nose is smoky and savoury, with vanilla and marzipan. The palate is so fresh with seamless minerality and oak integration. Amazing length, and plenty of acidity. Just fabulous.

Robert Boutflower Tanners, Shrewsbury

Tanners have had a pretty strong relationship with Portuguese wines over the last decade or so. We even do a Douro Valley en primeur offer to private customers, covering about a dozen suppliers. The Douro again showed it offers the finest quality, effortlessly.

Tejo has some delicious wines at very good prices, reinforcing for me that this is where independents look for the entry-level wines they need. The flavours are bold and succulent, interestingly different but punterfriendly. Personally I like an indigenous variety – the more unpronounceable the better! – which is then backed up by some international quality grape like

Syrah. A Bentley engine in a Kia, rather than certain European areas where it can be the other way round …

We got a flavour for Dão and Vinhos Verdes which left me wanting to explore further. The key is regional grape varieties doing their thing to great effect, bringing that all-important sense of place and specific story that consumers can then latch onto. Alfrocheiro in the Dão, for example; Loureiro in Vinhos Verdes. Portugal has been overall the most exciting winesourcing country in Europe for a few years now, and this trip suggested that the route is still climbing upwards – and the roads have got better too!

Travelling 6,000 miles to South Africa for Cape Wine is not something that’s feasible for most independents – who are certainly strapped for time, and often for cash.

Yet as always the indie trade was represented at this year’s show. If there’s any event that’s going to ignite a fire, any country that’s going to get under your skin, it’s Cape Wine and it’s South Africa.

John Chapman from Oxford Wine Co says: “There is always an energy at this fair, but this edition had more positivity and a ‘let’s get business done’ vibe.

“You could tell that there was a maturity to the exhibition and an immense friendliness throughout. Most producers have a real warmth for working with the UK market, which in today’s world is not echoed from many other export markets, who seem to have tired of our constant admin changes, putting barriers in the way of frictionless trade.”

He adds: “The biggest takeaway was definitely that there’s a lot of good wine from all producers. Not just the hip new wave, but traditional stalwarts who are stepping up to the plate with jaw-dropping examples at really affordable prices.

“Don’t discount the big names just

Some highlights from the show

‘Everyone is upping their game’

because in the past they were less inspiring. Now everyone seems to be upping their game.

“I came away this year with a real perspective of the message we need to harness to sell these great wines. It is heritage, quality and diversity. Heritage in

Weltevrede Calcrete, Robertson Valley 2024

the depth of winemaking skill for so long, quality in the modern approaches that are pushing the boundaries of wine styles and diversity in its true sense – combining all aspects of the indigenous flora, fauna and social responsibility to make wine of real depth and passion.”

Limestone soils are pretty rare in South Africa, with only a small handful of pockets in the Western Cape, one of which is in the Robertson Valley. Calcrete is the wine that is tasked with expressing this Chablisienne style of Chardonnay. This is coiled with wires of mineral tension, poised with the bite of lime and green apple. It’s truly reflective of the wines that Calcrete promises to deliver.

Cederberg Five Generations Chenin 2024

With the highest vineyards in South Africa under its wing, Cederberg make wines with a distinct mountain spirit. The Five Generations range pledges the best of Cederberg – defined by clarity and freshness. This Chenin sees only 12% new oak, with the rest assigned to old wood and concrete. You can taste the extremities of the elements here – the heat of the sun and the cool of the moon, generosity and austerity in equal and necessary measure. Outstanding.

Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge 2024

After years at Hamilton Russell, Berene Sauls was offered a “no-strings-attached cheque” from Anthony Hamilton Russell to set up her own business, an opportunity that led to the birth of Tesselaarsdal. Berene’s Pinot is from dry-farmed vineyards in the Hemel-en-Aarde ridge. This is South African Pinot with an accent of the Burgundian kind. Extremely engaging with subtle red fruits rising slowly through smoke, tilled earth and spice.

Momento Bot River Grenache 2023

Winemaker Marelise Niemann has a self-proclaimed love affair with Grenache, expressing four different terroirs with the southern Rhône workhorse – Paardeberg, Riebeekberg, Piekenierskloof and Bot River. Each one is transparent in terms of its sense of place, but the coolness of Bot River makes for a truly stunning interpretation. Cedar sap and pomegranate, cranberries and spearmint, rose and steel. Its purity and lightness are almost thirst-quenching.

Jacob Stokes reports back from an inspiring Cape Wine 2025

Thinus Kruger from Fram with Chris Alheit of Alheit Vineyards

Going beyond the greenwash

Sustainability is a word that’s shoe-horned into almost every conversation about winemaking these days. At a time when it’s never been more important, it runs the risk of becoming a cliché.

And yet at every level of the industry, genuine efforts are being made to make wine production cleaner and greener. In many parts of the world, producers are also recognising the human dimension of sustainability, and making a real difference to the lives of their workers and the wider local community.

Read about some of what’s happening over the following 12 pages.

Can retailers have a say in sustainability?

Author Andrew Neather says that merchants should be joining conversations about the impact of wine packaging

The arrival this autumn of the first invoices for the Environmental Producer Responsibility levy will focus the wine trade’s attention on packaging as never before.

True, it won’t directly affect small merchants: it is firms with an annual turnover of £1m or more, and putting more than 25 tonnes of packaging on to the UK market a year, who will start paying the tariffs at £192 per tonne for waste glass. Nevertheless, independents have told me they are likely to get costs passed on to them by importers. And the move brings an important issue for the trade into sharper focus.

Packaging matters in terms of sustainability because glass is the biggest part of a bottle of wine’s carbon footprint – on average around 40% of it. And more than 90% of wine sold in the UK still comes in glass bottles – some 1.5bn of them a year.

Sourcing lighter bottles is one important way of reducing your business’s “Scope 3” carbon emissions – those downstream from your dayto-day activities. The current average bottle weight is 500g-550g. However, the Sustainable Wine Roundtable’s Bottle Weight Accord has set a goal of reducing the average weight of 75cl still wine bottles to below 420g by the end of next year. Aside from making the average case 1.5kg lighter when you’re lugging it out of the store, that reduction will make a significant difference to the industry’s carbon emissions.

The Bottle Weight Accord was worked out with retailers including Waitrose and Tesco in the UK and importers including Boutinot, as well as

retailers and producers abroad. But pressure from UK independents is important too. It might not necessarily change the wines you choose to stock. But even asking your distributors to provide bottle weights will help move the issue up the agenda.

There are alternatives to glass. Cans are increasingly popular, with off-trade sales up 17% in the past year. Aluminium can be recycled infinitely, and a higher proportion of cans get recycled in the UK than do bottles. Aluminium manufacture is, however, extremely energy intensive: to make primary aluminium you have to mine, crush and smelt bauxite ore, and even recycling uses a lot of energy.

Of more concern, to small merchants especially, is cans’ short shelf life – only around nine months, because the acids and sulphites in wine degrade the can’s plastic polymer lining over time. Nevertheless, Penny Edwards, of St Albans’ Cellar Door Wines, says she is looking at switching her substantial on-trade sales of rosé from glass to cans, since it is mostly sold by the glass, and the same for the popular 20cl mini-bottles of Prosecco.

The other main alternative to glass is bag-inbox. These are greener than bottles because the packaging is lighter and more efficient to ship – in fact they have the lowest carbon footprint of any wine packaging. They’re not perfect: the outer carboard carton is easy to recycle but the metallised or plastic inner and the plastic tap aren’t recyclable in the UK.

BiB accounts for only around 2% of the UK

wine market at present, though sales are growing. They are far more popular in some other markets, especially Sweden, where almost two thirds of wine is sold this way. Marcus Ihre, sustainability manager at Systembolaget, the Swedish monopoly, says that the practicality of BiB “appeals to something in the Swedish soul: you can carry it on to your boat or take it to your holiday cottage”. A very Swedish perspective, perhaps – though even in France, BiB sales are now reportedly around 40% of the total.

The main concerns for UK independents are BiBs’ aesthetics and their shelf life. “We trialled bag-in-box two years ago and it didn’t work very well,” says Edwards. “The bottles on the shelf are what looks appealing.” As for shelf life, for BiB that is just six to 18 months from filling. So they demand careful inventory management for independents to avoid getting stuck with a load of past-sell-by boxes. But there is surely more scope for independents with on-trade customers selling wine by the glass to sell more of those lines via BiB.

Of course, packaging is more complicated than simply bottles versus cans or BiB. For the large numbers of independent merchants who also sell online, courier packaging is a significant consideration. The greenest alternative for whole cases is the “egg box” cardboard inners for cartons made by Pulpsafe and others. However, at around £5 per box ex-VAT, these are more than double the price of cartons using plastic air-column bags. They also take up a lot of space to store that many independents don’t have. And then there is the packaging that can’t be recycled, such as cling film on pallets – though there are ways to reduce other plastic packaging, for example using paper rather than plastic tape. Cutting your packaging can be tricky at such a challenging time for the industry: everyone is under mounting cost pressures. But as consumers become increasingly conscious of sustainability, it’s a good look – as well as the right thing to do for the planet.

Andrew Neather (pictured right) is a freelance wine journalist and blogger. His new book with Jane Masters MW, Rooted in Change: The Stories Behind Sustainable Wine, is published this month by the Academie du Vin Library

On average, glass bottles account for 40% of a wine’s carbon footprint

Sensible spraying

Over the years we have tried conventional farming with the use of sprays, and we have trialled certified organic practices. The answer for us lies somewhere between the two approaches, which we refer to as holistic vineyard management. Herbicide use is a great example of this holistic theory at work.

Traditionally in Marlborough, vineyard herbicide is applied three to four times per season to prevent under-vine weeds from competing with the vines for water.

We have managed to bring herbicide use down to once per season, allowing vine growth to be maximised and to ensure that we have good fruiting canes to lay down when pruning in winter. As the season progresses, we move to mechanical undervine weed control, which is extremely effective.

Lightweight bottles

We bottle on-site to guarantee the quality of our wines. There has been a push in recent years to bottle in the destination market under the guise of sustainability. But in reality this is done to save costs, and it is generally only the cheaper wines that are bottled in this way.

We are in discussion with our glass supplier about how we can make bottles lighter and more efficient to ship. Hunter’s was one of the first in New Zealand to adopt the lighter 418g bottle, and it was a big step forward. These have now been

What sustainability means at Hunter’s

Jane Hunter, founder of one of Marlborough’s pioneering wine producers, and winemaker James Macdonald, discuss some of the key facets of the company’s commitment to its environment

Sponsored feature Wines are imported by Jeroboams

superseded by 390g bottles which we are using successfully for our table wines.

This move has the support of our customers. We are now about to trial an even lighter bottle which is exciting and, if all goes well, we will adopt this fully for our 2026 wines.

Biodiversity

After vintage we plant cover crops in every other vine row, reducing the need to mow, and leave them in for the growing season. The mix may include chicory, various clovers, lupins, plantains and rye corn. Apart from the rye corn, the plants are low to the ground. We crimp-roll the rye corn to break the stem down to a lower height which gives the appearance of a mat. As the rye corn breaks down, it provides good organic matter and gradually the clovers etc grow through and provide nitrogen for the vines.

In 2009, we received the Marlborough Environment Award for the establishment of our dryland native garden. This garden is not only a drawcard for visitors, but has a useful purpose in lessening the need to mow the adjacent area that is used to spray treated winery wastewater onto. The native garden has, among other plants, flaxes which take up the water and thrive.

Our most recent project has involved the restoration of a wetland stream and pond between two of our vineyards. The transformation is truly remarkable, turning an overgrown weedy stream into a thriving, free-flowing watercourse bordered by vibrant native vegetation.

Winery efficiencies

Given the relatively young age of the Marlborough wine industry, our wineries are modern and technologically advanced.

Marlborough wineries are unique in that 28,000ha of a single variety, Sauvignon Blanc, tends to ripen in a very short window, so they are designed to process fruit very quickly. At Hunter’s we are continually looking for ways to make our intake more efficient and to reduce harvest days. We operate 24/7 during vintage and we can now get our total crop into the winery in eight days if weather conditions deem necessary.

The most significant changes in the winery have come through the upgrades we have been making to our bottling and disgorging lines. This not only allows for greater speed in bottling, labelling and packaging, but also fewer staff to operate the lines.

Certification

Like the majority of New Zealand wineries, we have achieved Sustainable Winegrowers Certification. This is an audited scheme, and annual submissions cover off impacts across soil, water, plant protection, people and climate change. For example, we submit annual spray diaries which are processed for compliance.

All Hunter’s table wines are vegan certified – no animal products are used in the production process.

Appellation Marlborough certification guarantees that our wines have been produced from sustainably grown grapes, bottled in New Zealand and verified through rigorous quality testing.

We are always looking at new ways to monitor our production processes and to move to more sustainable and efficient ways to produce our grapes and make our wines.

NOT JUST A SLOGAN

For Cape winemakers, sustainability is about taking a proactive approach to real problems. By Jacob Stokes

Everyone in the wine trade wants to talk about sustainability, and rightly so. Nowhere is the subject more agenda-topping than in South Africa. As minister of agriculture John Steenhuisen says: “Sustainability isn’t just a slogan. It’s our licence to operate for generations to come.”

Whether it’s commitments to resource independence and biodiversity conservation, the growth in regenerative agriculture or expansion of community projects, this isn’t just greenwashing.

Because producers have the freedom to experiment in the vineyard without threats to Wine of Origin status, there’s space for context and dynamism in how producers interpret and deal with their own, individual challenges.

The droughts of 2015-2018 highlighted how water scarcity alone can quickly unravel the country’s wine industry, prompting more serious action on water stewardship. Rainwater harvesting, wastewater recycling and more efficient irrigation are just some of the techniques being implemented.

But much of the discussion is about avoiding unnecessary water usage by planting the right vines in the first place. There’s a growing consensus that thirsty, heavily irrigated vines don’t belong in a

sustainable South Africa. And this rationale is channelled by putting the appropriate vines in the soil, either for their isohydric or early ripening properties.

Brookdale estate in Paarl (pictured) has been at the forefront of such efforts. Winemaker Xander Sadie says: “The idea is to plant varieties that belong, make good wine and then sell it, rather than planting the wrong varieties and trying to force it. We have 39 varieties on the estate – and our climate is suitable for all of them.”

Brookdale’s Sixteen Field Blend comprises, as might be guessed, 16 varieties, all interplanted as bush vines and co-fermented. The blend is dominated by Mediterranean varieties like Vermentino, Picpoul, Clairette Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne – all recognised for their suitability to a climate like Paarl’s. Sadie says: “We prefer to co-ferment so that we can use native yeasts reliably. The varieties that might struggle get pushed through by the others.”

With the Cape’s soil moisture decreasing, the viability of many of the region’s existing and historic varieties is in doubt, with vines increasingly sustained by heavy irrigation. Jordan estate in Stellenbosch has been investigating the use and potential importance of isohydric varieties: vines

that are more suitable for dry farming due to their water efficiency.

For Jordan, Assyrtiko – which thrives in the equally oppressive Santorini – has been the water-shy weapon of choice. “We have taken cuttings from Santorini and planted them as bush vines on dry, windy, northfacing slopes overlooking the Atlantic,” says Gary Jordan. “We now have 6.5ha of Assyrtiko, all of which is dry farmed.”

• 95% of South Africa’s vineyards are certified sustainable with the wine certification authority seal

• 70% of South Africa’s Cape floral kingdom occurs nowhere else on the planet. The WWF works with 60 conservation champions across the Cape to protect this biodiversity. This equates to around 24,300 hectares

• 107 black-owned brands and 81 blackowned farms are now operational

• 80% of the worlds fairtrade wine sales come from South Africa

• Wine supports 270,000+ jobs and contributes R50bn to the economy

• The Wine & Agricultural Ethical Trading Association now certifies 77% of South Africa’s hectarage as ethical.

Cape sustainability in numbers

‘it’s

part of emiliana's dna’

Emiliana is one of Chile's most exciting producers and a pioneer in organic and biodynamic winemaking. Sustainability manager Sebastián Tramón, Drinks Business Green Personality of the Year, explains more

It’s hard to think of any producer with more sustainable credentials than Emiliana. Why has this journey been so fundamental to your story? It started thanks the owners’ values, not because it was a market opportunity – and we think that has made a huge difference. The values are part of Emiliana’s DNA. Everything started as protection for the workers; it was the right thing to do and everybody understood that, so it was easier to adopt sustainability as a cause. It has been quite a journey, with several milestones along the way. But there’s still a lot of work to be done to minimise negative impacts and to create positive ones through regeneration.

We understand sustainability in an integrated way, which is critical. We started with environmental certifications (organic, biodynamic, ISO 14001), but also with social responsibility certifications (Fairtrade) a long time ago. You cannot just address one element of sustainability and not the others. This applies to the company as a whole, so in every vineyard we employ the same practices to comply with our organic, regenerative and biodynamic certifications.

Some producers try to “do the right thing” but don't get certified for their efforts because of the admin and red tape. Do they have a point? This is very common now with regenerative viticulture. A lot of producers are implementing a few practices, but they are not following a scheme that requires any audits.

At the beginning it might be fine to introduce sustainable practices without getting certified. But once you realise they work, you have to get your certification in order to achieve credibility with your clients. There is risk of fraud and of greenwashing.

Which elements of your sustainability make you proudest?

can be sustainable. It is not something exclusive to small wineries.

We are also proud of achieving further certifications and adopting more stringent standards of sustainability such B Corp and ROC [Regenerative Organic Certification]. It is expensive, time consuming and frustrating at times. But we know that it is the right thing to do.

Can you imagine a time when it will be considered odd for wineries not to be organic/vegan/B Corp etc?

We think that the world is upside down now. The producers that are trying to work more sustainably have to pay for certification, go through inspections and face more bureaucracy involving labels and recipe approval in order to communicate and operate in the market.

But the ones using toxic pesticides, who don’t have practices to improve the dignity of workers and who have a negative environmental impact face less control from authorities – and it is cheaper, because they don’t have to pay for any certification.

We hope this will change in the future and that it will be conventional to be organic, regenerative, Fairtrade, B Corp etc, and the ones that are doing nothing will be exposed to more control and scrutiny.

That is why we called our sustainable strategy The Future is Organic, because we believe it will be the new normal.

Is biodynamics more of a religion than a science?

When we started we were called crazy, because the whole company was changing to organic and biodynamic – nobody talked about regenerative at that time. There was no regulation in Chile, any technical tools or market demand, but we did it anyway. We transformed 1,000 hectares of vineyards, proving that large projects

Biodynamics is the oldest sustainable agricultural scheme. It started in 1924 and it comes from a philosophical movement: anthroposophy. Since the beginning it has been very important because the concept of agriculture and farms has been understood in a wider way: not only inputs and outputs, but living things, interdependence, natural cycles, the role of humans, health and soil as the pillars of agriculture. Many practices that are now popular are fundamental to biodynamics and there is a whole body of science behind it. So it is not a religion, but a movement to create a healthier planet.

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New packaging for the Adobe range

‘You are organic or you are not. Simple, really’

How many times do you hear about wineries that are apparently working organically, but haven’t got around to being certified? The reasons given are usually the bureaucracy and the expense involved.

Many in the trade are happy to go along with this “unofficially organic” line. But not Lance Pigott, who co-founded Vintage Roots back in 1986 and who has been championing genuinely organic wines ever since.

“It’s frustrating when vineyards claim their wines are organic, when they’re not certified,” he says. “You are either organic or you are not. Simple, really.

“Of course, I fully understand their reasoning – or excuse – that it costs too much, is more bureaucratic and takes time. But many producers, large and small, do make the effort.”

The costs of getting certified as organic might typically be €500 to €1,500 per year for a small to medium-sized winery, though the fees vary depending on the size of the business and the certifying body.

“The system is intrinsically wrong,” Pigott believes. “Instead of ‘taxing’ and burdening the growers who are taking care of their land, why are the polluters not paying for what they may be using?

“We, the taxpayers, pay to clean up water courses and land which has been over-polluted with chemicals.

“In an ideal world, organic growers should be financially encouraged to grow crops without using chemical pollutants.”

Pigott says that certified organic wine producers can be found pretty much everywhere these days, even in farflung regions of Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia.

“In Champagne, it was thought to not be possible 10, 15 or 20 years ago as it was just too much trouble, and the cost and the weather made in too difficult,” he says.

“Now look at it – there is a flurry of new certified producers including many very large players. The same goes for Catalonia.”

The idea of being “organic in spirit” doesn’t wash with Pigott at all.

“To some growers, planting a couple of trees at the edge of a field may constitute their ‘organic spirit’, whilst others are doing it all organically and choosing not to advertise it,” he says.

“It is very difficult for consumers to choose unless they can see the organic symbol.

“This is why we only buy certified wines. Organic is the future. It has to be.”

Vintage Roots co-founder Lance Pigott has no truck with “organic in spirit” producers

27 vineyards one vision

José Félix and Noelia Callejo of Bodegas Felix Callejo are "seriously talented winemakers, making the Ribera del Duero wines you dream about", organically and sustainably, according to UK importer Moreno Wines. Here's what they have to say about themselves

We work in a single municipality, Sotillo de la Ribera, with 27 vineyards distributed along the Sotillo profile, from the southern area, with more regional clay soils at 830 metres, to the highest areas at 930 metres, with paramo limestone. It’s a privileged location which allows us to achieve excellent acidity.

These areas also include our two “grand cru” sites, the two finest areas of Sotillo. One, Majuelos, has sand and gravel, and the other, Félix Callejo, is located just before the paramo, with very fine limestone sands.

Our philosophy is to work with great respect in the vineyards, and to continue

with minimal intervention in the winery, employing very gentle work, allowing us to reflect each area of Sotillo in the wines – delicate, fresh wines with the limestone character of the place. For several years, we have been working with solar panels, making us self-sufficient in electricity.

We want to highlight the Sotillo de la Ribera soils and convey their diversity in our wines. Working the vineyard organically is the key to authenticity. Our climate and altitude favour this philosophy.

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We abandoned the classic ageing classification of Ribera del Duero many years ago. For a long time we’ve been working with the determination to showcase the place and the landscape, using other tools such as natural yeasts, concrete, foudres and barrels of various sizes.

For a few years now, we’ve begun cofermenting Garnacha Tinta and Albillo Mayor in our red wines. We’ve also recovered the clarete style [blending red and white grapes], so we’re very excited to face the future, recovering tools from our past which are so relevant and valid now.

EL LEBRERO RRP £31

A white wine for ageing, made with Albillo Mayor from two vineyards located on the limestone plateau of Sotillo at 920 metres. Pure elegance.

PARAJES RRP £27

Village wine, representing the Sotillo landscape, altitude and limestone. A field blend, co-fermented: Tinto Fino, Garnacha Tinta and Albillo Mayor.

MAJUELOS RRP £45

One of the “grands crus” of Sotillo, an area of very fine sand and gravel – and very elegant Tinto Fino.

IS THIS the uk’s greenest wine business?

For some businesses, sustainability is essentially a PR exercise. A few solar panels are installed, maybe some grey water is recycled, and then complacency sets in.

These are charges that could never be levelled at Lanchester Wines, or its owner Tony Cleary MBE. The company has made giant strides with its energy efficiencies – indeed it’s hard to think of any UK wine business that has done more. And yet there’s a tangible impatience to go even further, and to inspire others to follow suit.

The wider Lanchester Group, which includes Lanchester Wines, Greencroft Bottling and more, and of which Cleary is CEO, has invested £13m in renewable heat and energy generation in its sites across north east England. Today almost all its power derives from wind and solar energy.

The business has very little need of the National Grid: three wind turbines produce 5 million kWh of electricity each year, while Greencroft Two has a 3 MegaWatt rooftop solar array, one of the largest of its kind in the UK. Solar panels are especially efficient in County Durham’s bright but chilly weather.

The next step of the journey involves battery energy storage systems. “We’re a 24-hour operation, so obviously through the night we get nothing off the solar,” Cleary says. “And if the wind’s not blowing, of course we’re on the grid. So we’re still spending a bit of money on the grid, which is somewhat disappointing. But with the battery system we would always be able to hold a lot of the power and then use it when there’s no wind and no sun.

“So that would make it much more efficient, because the issue we have is that the grid can’t take the extra power that we produce. They say we’ve got to pay them so many millions to upgrade the grid. It’s frustrating, because it’s not our grid. We ended up this summer turning the solar off a number of times because the grid couldn’t take our power.”

He lists bureaucratic obstacles, mainly governmental, the Cleary family has had to negotiate in their quest to make Lanchester Group a leader in sustainability. They have often been exasperated at the hurdles that have been put in its path, and the intense time, money and effort it takes to overcome them. But they find a way.

Lanchester Group’s ambition to operate completely off grid is nearly a reality. But for CEO and owner Tony Cleary MBE, and director Caroline Cleary, sustainability is a journey that can never quite end

Lanchester Group is a family business with freehold properties. What about smaller companies with leased premises? Isn’t solar power a non-starter for them?

Director Caroline Cleary, who will soon be taking over the reins at Lanchester Group, says businesses should do what they can, where they can. “We have a confectionery business in Wetherby, we lease that building and we put solar on the roof and we’ve paid for it,” she says. “We do have a 10-year lease, but actually it’s less than a four-year payback.”

Geothermal heat pumps have proved more problematic for Lanchester Group, but despite this Tony Cleary remains positive.

“One works beautifully, and the other one has been a real problem child, to put it mildly. We were the first ones to get it to work in the UK. Now it’s working, but not as well as it should. We’ve probably spent £5m on that, and probably got £1.5m back, so we’re a bit out on that. But there’s still time.”

Lanchester Wines has been a pioneer of lightweight glass, working with its supplier to reduce the weight of Bordeauxstyle bottles from 395g to 300g. A Burgundy-style equivalent is also now available. From an EPR point of view alone, this means a 26% reduction in fees – which has an impact on retail prices too, even though the production process is marginally more expensive than for conventional bottles.

In terms of transport, the 300g bottle removes of 3.2 tonnes of glass on a 24,000-litre bulk tank (compared to 400g).

Caroline Cleary is hopeful that aluminium too will have a bigger role to play. “We’re encouraging customers to consider 187ml cans,” she says. “Around 75% of glass is recycled but with aluminium it’s about 93%, and it can be recycled infinitely. And an aluminium can is much lighter than a 187ml glass bottle.” She adds that 4,464 cans can squeeze onto one pallet, compared to 2,772 bottles of the same volume.

“Waitrose is the first supermarket to replace all 187ml and 250ml wine bottles with cans. Producers are premiumising the branding as well, which definitely helps.”

When I started on the farm in 1999, I had no formal training in agriculture (I studied to be an artist) so first learnt to farm conventionally with all the fertilisers, pesticides and conventional chemicals. Shortly after that I realised that the conventional system did not makes sense to me: specifically there was no life on the farm, in the soils – the farm was dying.

It’s been amazing to see how the farm has transformed over the years from a dying, sterile piece of land to a vibrant, living entity. The real reward is to see how the wines have changed over the years to bring amazing, living, characterful wines that are truly grape-driven. Not just fruit but natural acidity, tannins, and incredible depth in personality.

Our farm is really built from the ground up in a very systematic approach. We look in depth at the soil nutrition and at broad-spectrum nutrients – things like concentrated sea solids and volcanic rock dusts to really feed the soil life and bring balance. The next real step is to grow cover crops all year round to feed the soil life, do natural tillage and protect the soils from weather extremes. We turn to nature to control the problems with natural predators as opposed to pesticides.

Biodynamics plays a huge synergistic role. Working with energies creates a thriving, humming, living system. We can get caught up in the various biodynamic preparations and the rhythms that we work with. But the bottom line is that without the use of biodynamics we discount a huge part of the natural system, which is the interplay of energies within nature. All life is based on energy. Why would we not want to harness this and work with it?

It’s been an amazing journey to bring

Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White Chenin Blanc-driven with Roussanne, Viognier and Semillon. Pure fruit of lime, grapefruit, pineapple and quince, with just a dash of honey on the nose. The palate is dense with juicy with tangy peach and brie flavours, delivered with good intensity and freshness. These mouthwatering flavours linger on the palate. RRP £17.49

Profile: Avondale

Johnathan Grieve’s Paarl estate has the motto “soil is life”. But his idea of sustainability goes further than just biodynamic farming and using ducks for pest control

Sponsored feature Wines are imported by Cachet Wine

animals back onto the farm. The ducks represent a sustainable solution to a problem with no negative effects to the environment. They are extremely effective in what they do: they love snails, and we get better control than we would have done with the chemical alternative, and at a reduced price.

Avondale is comprised of many families and quite a lot of them live on the farm. We created the Community Organisation to address the concerns of the community, really focusing on social issues. There are many initiatives, but the most rewarding is our creche and aftercare facility which takes care of our workers’ children so the

Avondale Anima Chenin Blanc 20% of the grapes were whole-bunch fermented in amphora and qvevri, adding unique body and length. Winter melon, pineapple, lime and a hint of honey confirm the elegance and fullness of this softly wooded, supple Chenin. The palate is dense with fresh flavours of gooseberry, quince and peach. RRP £21.49

mums can go back to work, giving them independence. This facility also has a section for the older kids for aftercare and we supply meals during the day. It’s been a truly rewarding journey over the past 20 years.

Our relationship with Cachet Wine has been driven by many shared values. They are a family run and owned business, been in the industry for a long time, have a hard working, knowledgeable team and always do what they promise. Above this it’s been a pleasure to see how both our businesses have grown over the past 25 years – and how the sustainability story has really come to the fore.

Avondale Samsara Syrah

On the nose you are greeted with soft wood, white pepper, violets and vibrant red berries. This exceptional wine is full and well-integrated, with hints of plum, cherry, cloves, cinnamon, and pepper. The fruit-driven palate is well-balanced, with firm tannins and good acidity delivering an unbelievable length. RRP £27.49

Ducks are key members of the Avondale team, eagerly controlling the snail population

WINES UNDER £15.00

Independents such as Sarah Helliwell of The Stores in Frome know that customers expect to find quality wines at the budget end of the market as well as the upper reaches.

Our guide to this vital category for indies starts overleaf

DON’T TELL GARY CHARDONNAY

VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA

RRP £14.50

Crafted with rebellious flair in Victoria, this limited-edition Chardonnay is rich, textured and full of personality. Barrelaged with lees contact, it bursts with citrus, pineapple and biscuit notes, balanced by floral lift and creamy depth. A bold wine with a cheeky backstory, it’s ideal for retailers seeking something with character and conversation appeal. Perfect for those who love a full-flavoured white with a modern twist.

SANTA ALBA RESERVE CARMÉNÈRE 2023

VIÑA ALTO ROBLE (CHILE)

RRP £11.79

From Chile’s Central Valley, this Carménère shows off dark chocolate, bramble fruits and a hint of smoked vanilla. With four months in oak, it offers a supple texture and rich complexity while remaining wonderfully approachable. Viña Alto Roble is certified sustainable and its ethos of long-term stewardship and careful winemaking shines through. A wine of character and depth, this full-bodied red punches above its weight.

GLORIA GODELLO CASTILLA Y LEÓN, SPAIN

RRP £14

A vibrant Spanish white from Castilla y León that offers a refreshing alternative to Albariño. Aromas of citrus, peach and white blossom lead to a rounded, mineral-driven palate with crisp acidity and subtle texture. It’s a versatile food wine, and a smart hand-sell for retailers looking to introduce customers to lesser-known Iberian varietals with premium appeal and excellent value.

VIÑA SALORT ALBARIÑO 2024

FAMILIA TRAVERSA (URUGUAY)

RRP £13.79

This Albariño from Canelones is bright and expressive, with citrus, stone fruits and a textured, rounded palate balanced by refreshing acidity. Familia Traversa combines three generations of winemaking heritage with forward-looking innovation; solar energy, lighter glass and composting are all part of its certifiedsustainable approach. Hand-harvested fruit and sensitive winemaking capture the vineyard’s character in a refined and versatile wine, bringing South American flair to an increasingly sought-after grape variety.

FAMILLE MOUTARD MÉTHODE TRADITIONELLE

BLANC DE BLANCS

BURGUNDY, FRANCE

RRP £14.50

Crafted in Chablis by a Champagne house, this sparkling blanc de blancs offers exceptional value and finesse. Expect crisp green apple, citrus zest and bready richness from traditionalmethod fermentation. With fine bubbles and elegant minerality, it’s a standout choice for retailers seeking a premium sparkling wine outside the Champagne AOC. A perfect pour for celebratory occasions, with a story that sells.

OJOS DEL SUR MALBEC 2024

INSPIRED BY CONDOR (PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA)

RRP £14.79

The Neuquén region lends its wild beauty to this vibrant Malbec, with aromas of plums, blackberries and violets layered over subtle earthy minerality. A touch of oak adds balance, while soft tannins keep it elegant and food friendly. Produced to certified sustainable standards, it reflects both the purity of place and the skill of the winemaker. A thoughtful, expressive style of Malbec that offers something distinctive from Argentina’s cooler southern frontier.

Lewis Hadley-Roberts

Gather, Long Melford, Suffolk

For us, the £15 and under category is really important. It’s how you get people through the door and how you earn their trust.

Most customers aren’t ready to jump straight into the £20+ bottles, so these wines are the first impression – they show that we can offer quality, character and value all at once. If someone goes home happy with a £13 bottle that punches above its weight, chances are they’ll come back next week for something else.

Finding good wines at this level can be tricky, especially when we’re looking for organic, sustainable and low-intervention options, where possible, but there are a few suppliers who consistently deliver. Les Caves and Alliance are two real standouts for us – they always seem to find producers making honest, characterful wines that still sit comfortably under £15 retail.

Roughly 40% of our takeaway bottle sales are wines under £15, so it’s definitely a key part of what we do. It’s also the range that helps build relationships; people quickly learn that affordable here doesn’t mean boring.

Lewis’s bangers on a budget

Solara Natural Red (Alliance Wine)

A lot of people’s first experience with natural reds. They just see the word Merlot and take a punt … then come back for more. £14.50

Baglio Gibellina U ... Passimiento (Alliance Wine)

One of the wines that pays our bills; rich and sweet. A crowd pleaser. £14.75

Mayfly Sauvignon Blanc (Alliance Wine)

The other bill-payer. Typical Marlborough Savvy B. £13.25

Chin Chin Vinho Verde (Keeling Andrew)

Proof that Shoreditch has reached rural Suffolk, and it turns out it’s cool here too. £13.25

Clavellina Rosado (Alliance Wine)

Our best-selling rosé, and it’s not even Provençal! Spanish, dry, bright and fantastic value. £13.25

Sarah Helliwell

The Stores, Frome, Somerset

Sarah’s super savers

Tikves Smederevka (Hallgarten & Novum Wines) £11.40

Finca Enguera Verdil (Modest Merchant) £14

The under-£15 section is really important for us because it’s where a lot of our regulars look for day-to-day wines. They move into the £20-£25 bottles for a weekend dinner or to take to friends. It also provides most of the wines we use for large functions or catering for parties. Alliance, Hallgarten and Les Caves make up most in the category for us.

Bancroft and Modest Merchant also do well with some great wines sneaking just under the £15 point that really deliver above the price band. We really find that suppliers who work hard to find more unusual wines tend to offer great value.

Both these wines encapsulate what we love about finding off-the-beaten track wines. The Smederevka sits at a price point which means customers are willing to take a risk on something they don’t know. We also often serve this by the glass and a lot of people then take a bottle home. The Verdil looks and drinks well above its price tag, especially when you compare this to pretty boring examples of more famous regions and grapes. There is no question which we would rather drink for the money. We search hard to find these kinds of wines that overdeliver on price and our customers respond really positively. They feel they have got a bargain and also love sharing discovering something new with friends.

Lewis Hadley-Roberts: “These wines are customers’ first impression”

PRESSURE POINT

MÉTHODE ANCESTRALE

WO PAARL [PÉT-NAT] 2025

RRP £14.50

Pressure Point is a tongue-in-cheek reference to the tight labelling laws around the naming conventions of sparkling wine in South Africa. Pét-Nat has a strict limit of 3 bar whilst Methode Ancestrale has slightly more forgiving limits so, after reaching pressure point on what to call it, the winery plumped for that. 100% Cinsault from a 30-year-old bush-vine dry-farmed block in Agter-Paarl.

BELLEFONTAINE MERLOT

2024

VIN DE FRANCE

RRP £10.25

The Bellefontaine range of single grape varietals has been in Boutinot’s portfolio for more than 30 years and offers great value. This year, it has seen a switch to super lightweight bottles to help decarbonise not only our supply chain, but those of our customers in line with our sustainability goals.

CASTEL SERRANOVA FIANO

IGP SALENTO 2024

RRP £14.75

Founded in 1935 by the Vallone family, Castel Serranova is a 5-hectare vineyard in the Carovigno area. Now run by sisters Vittoria and Maria-Teresa, it’s one of the original quality producers of the Salento peninsula. Concentrating on indigenous grape varieties – Negroamaro, Susumaniello and Primitivo for reds, and Fiano and Falanghina for whites – the Vallone family continue to offer fantastically well-priced wines, with the sole desire of wine lovers affordably enjoying the results of their labours.

BACALHÔA TERRA BOA TINTO

VINHO REGIONAL TERRAS DA BEIRA 2023

RRP £10.75

In polls conducted after tastings, asking which wines have pleased our customers the most, this gem of a red comes out top. Pound for pound great value with fantastic drinkability. Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz, from Alianca’s 360-hectare Quinta d’Aguiar property in Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo in Beiras, are planted on schist soils. Ripe brambles, plum and a touch of spice, with fresh red cherry and blackberry leaf characters.

CAVE DE TURCKHEIM TERRES DE GRANIT PINOT BLANC

AOP ALSACE 2022

RRP £14.95

Talk about value for money! “Jewel in the crown” is an overused expression but Cave de Turckheim is just that, one of our finest agencies for inherent quality and price (check out their crémants too – unsurpassable).

Permissibly labelled as Pinot Blanc, this is a blend of Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc from granitic soils of the Munster valley in the lieu-dit of Val St Gregoire. A complete and complex white with that definitive “minerality” we all talk about.

DUBOSCQ CLARET

BORDEAUX 2020

RRP £13.75

This is made by the Duboscq family who own Château Haut Marbuzet, and they call it their “calling card”: an honest and well-priced claret brandishing their name. Declassified grapes destined for their Cru Bourgeois – 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon – make it into the Duboscq Claret, increasing its depth and complexity. Perfect for Christmas fodder.

SPIER SIGNATURE SHIRAZ

STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA

RRP £14

Spier Wine Farm is a sustainability leader which prioritises regenerative farming, waste circularity, sourcing for good and empowering local communities. Their Shiraz is harvested from their estate in Stellenbosch with vines grown in granite soils, then fermented in stainless steel for 12 days, blended with 20% from French oak barrels. The palate is dark-fruited, fullbodied and rich, with supple tannins weaving through savoury, earthy layers, supported by oak that adds length and refinement.

MON BLANC

SAUVIGNON BLANC

DOMAINE MONTROSE, PAYS D’OC, FRANCE

RRP £14

This is a brilliantly vivacious Sauvignon Blanc with crisp aromas of lime zest, white peach and a pinch of tropical fruit. On the palate, expect an elegantly balanced wine alongside subtle stonefruit sweetness. The winery is HVE certified to Level 3, has planted over 3,000 indigenous Mediterranean trees and is proudly carbon neutral.

PORTELISA PRIMITIVO

VERGA NATALE, PUGLIA, ITALY

RRP £12

This Primitivo is bursting with southern Italian charm. The grapes are destemmed before macerating on the skins for about 10 days for an intense and full style. Bountiful ripe, dark fruits are complemented by an underlying earthiness, velvety tannins and warm spices such as cinnamon and black pepper.

CHICHIBIO PECORINO

TERRE D’ABRUZZO

CHIETI, ITALY

RRP £13.50

Abruzzo is a rugged region in central Italy with plenty of sunshine and undulating hills. This organic and vegan-certified Pecorino is fresh, mineral and well-balanced. The grapes are soft-pressed trodden followed by cool fermentation on the fine lees to ensure the best aromatics. There are classic notes of white peach, jasmine blossom and ripe apricot with a pleasant herbaceous edge to the finish.

CAVA BRUT NV SEGURA VIUDAS, PENEDES, SPAIN

RRP £13.50

The winemaking team behind Segura Viudas are all about achieving maximum fruitiness, freshness and complexity. This Brut Reserva is a whole-bunch pressed blend of 50% Macabeo, 30% Xarel. lo and 20% Parellada. The base wine spends three months on the lees before bottling and then the wine spends a further 15 months in the bottle on the lees. This is to give structure, softness on the palate and complex aromas of honey, dried fruits and flowers.

RAMON BILBAO SELECCION ESPECIAL

RIOJA, SPAIN

RRP £14.50

Ramon Bilbao has an international reputation for producing benchmark Rioja wines. This is its 50/50 blend of high-altitude Tempranillo and Garnacha, which spends eight months in American oak barrels. The style is luxurious with deep fruit flavours of blackberry, dark cherry and plum. Subtle hints of coffee bean, cocoa and tobacco spice are truly captivating.

China in your hands

If you haven’t yet encountered modern Chinese winemaking, there’s a strong chance that you soon will.

Michael Palij MW is a convert – and through Vinum Eurus he hopes that independent merchants go on a similar journey

Imagine having to explain to people that European wines can be hugely different. That even though on a map the Douro and Mosel valleys seem close, the journey between the two is long, and the wines poles apart.

That’s kind of where we’re at with China. There’s a temptation to refer to “Chinese wines” as a single entity, sharing common flavours and stylistic tropes. But they don’t. If they did, people like Michael Palij MW wouldn’t be getting so excited about them.

“I never want anybody tasting any of the wines to say, ‘good for China’,” Palij says. “These are wines for discerning consumers – they are great. They stand comparison with the Rieslings of Germany or Clare, and the great Cabernets from around the world.”

Palij has a small shareholding in Vinum Eurus, which represents some of China’s most interesting and premium producers. It holds stock in the UK and is gradually building relationships with retailers and sommeliers.

China’s long-term approach to infrastructure investment has been a boon for its wine industry, Palij reports. He’s also impressed by the eagerness of the Chinese to broaden their wine knowledge. “I worked in Shanghai and I lived in Hong Kong, and I’ve never met people who were keener to learn,” he says.

“We have an estate called Franco-Chinois, the first JV between the French and the Chinese governments, now in private

hands. For 20 years, Franco-Chinois was the embodiment of this cross-fertilisation of ideas. Célèbre, which is one of our top reds, is made by Patrick Valette, of Pavie and Chile fame. And in fact his son in law has moved to Yunnan to make wine. Emma Gao from Silver Heights trained in Bordeaux. There are plenty of international consultants roaming around.”

He adds: “Bits of China are kind of like Bordeaux in terms of latitude, climate, soil; bits are kind of like Lujan de Cuyo, or even higher parts of Argentina, and other bits of it are more like Clare. I was trying to teach somebody about Ningxia: I always say it’s like Alsace. You know, mountains, river, vineyards in between. That’s what that looks like.

“So they’ve got real terroir, a desire to learn, foreign expertise, domestic

investment. But they’re not going around saying, ‘our wines are the best’. They want to learn. They want to make great wine. And they are.”

China can’t play the indigenous grape card, but Palij says it has put its own stamp on a range of European varieties, some more obscure than others.

“Marselan, which is the GrenacheCabernet cross, I think is a signature grape variety for China in the way that Carménère is for Chile,” he says. “I think they’re still getting to grips with how to vinify Petit Manseng, but some of the results are really amazing.

“And Cabernet, just simply in terms of bang for your buck, is as good as anything in the world; the top Cabernet from China is just stunning.”

Palij, who owns Winetraders and is best known for his evangelism for Italy and its wines, draws some parallels between his first love and what he’s seen in China.

“Italy and China cook for the poor; France cooks for the nobility,” he says. “They both have very simple but amazing flavours. Ingenuity and great primacy of raw ingredients is what signifies great Chinese cooking in all its regional diversities.

“As you travel more rurally, the cuisine there is like Italy’s. And there is a beautiful combination with the wines – great acidity, tannins and alcohol, like Italy – and so that’s kind of the common thread.”

The Himalayas in Yunnan

Michael Palij MW sees parallels with Italy

Wines to celebrate Chinese New Year

The Chinese New Year celebrations run from February 17 until March 3. It’s a great time to hold a tasting event and to give customers the chance to experience some of China’s most indie-friendly wines. Here are eight to consider

Zaxee Suyan Chardonnay (Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan) RRP £42

Quan Shi Ping makes minimal-intervention wines from a traditional Tibetan house that now incorporates a winery. His oaked Chardonnay has a harmonious balance of richness and freshness, with enticing aromas of ripe peaches, pears and highland apples, intertwined with hints of cream, delicate spices and a whisper of salinity. There’s a quiet power to this wine: a perfect blend of complexity and smoothness that lingers with each sip.

Célèbre Cabernet Sauvignon (Himalayas, Yunnan) RRP £190

The Zhan brothers trod through thousands of miles and 236 villages in the Himalayan plateau before finding the right site for their vineyards, which are 2,200 to 2,700 metres above sea level. The wine is fermented in new French oak for 18 months, and bottle aged for a year before release. It’s momentous, complex and explosive. Michael Palij MW says: “Célèbre is great Cabernet that I would be proud to grace my table with at Christmas.”

Domaine Franco-Chinois Reserve Marselan (Huailai, Hebei) RRP £130

Beginning as a joint venture between the French and Chinese governments, DFC’s first vines were planted in 2000 in Huailai, near Beijing. The 2013 is the oldest wine in the Vinum Eurus portfolio, and a true testament to how Chinese wines can evolve with age. Captivating scents of grapefruit peel, cassis and bramble leaf, with smoky mocha notes. Brilliant acidity, with powdery tannins padding out the edges.

Canaan Chapter & Verse Riesling (Huailai, Hebei) RRP £35

Nestled by the Guanting reservoir, at elevations ranging from 498m to 1,050m, Canaan’s three vineyards benefit from a rich diversity of microclimates. The nose is captivating, with flinty lemon, green apples and white blossom, and a delicate hint of petrol. On the palate, this bone-dry Riesling displays precision and tension, bright acidity and crisp minerality. There’s a pithy, clean finish, showcasing remarkable varietal purity and a sense of place.

Silver Heights Bloom Pét-Nat (East Helan Mountains, Ningxia) RRP £45

Emma Gao has brought an artisanal, low-intervention philosophy to Silver Heights, championing organic and biodynamic practices. A vibrant and unconventional wine, blending Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Ningxia rice wine in a finely tuned expression.

“It’s just delicious and unique,” says Palij. “Emma has got this really new-world cellar palate because of where she’s trained. This wine is just banging. You couldn’t get it anywhere else.”

Lavie Dragon Red Blend (Togtoh County, Inner Mongolia) RRP £40

The sandy vineyards sit on the north bank of the Yellow River, enjoying a moderate continental climate. This region has a history with wine dating back to the Yuan dynasty. This Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend is bold and captivating, with layers of ripe red and black fruits balanced by hints of spice and coffee. It’s full-bodied yet elegant, with smooth tannins that provide structure and depth.

Xiban Happy Forever Marselan (East Helan Mountains, Ningxia) RRP £25

Situated west of the Yellow River, Xiban’s 200-hectare estate spans 17 low-yielding plots farmed organically in the arid, sun-drenched foothills of the East Helan Mountains. The granite gravel–sand soils lend the vines excellent drainage and natural concentration. This ruby-red Marselan is graceful yet firm, offering layers of black fruit and subtle spice. Smooth tannins and a touch of chocolate from 18 months in old oak add depth and polish.

Longting Petit Manseng (Yantai, Shandong) RRP £27

Longting’s biodynamically-farmed vineyards are just 5km from the sea and the humid conditions, and granitic sand, suit Petit Manseng down to the ground. The fruit is hand harvested in three passes in the vineyard and fermented in small stainless steel vats for 30 days. What emerges is a fresh, zesty wine, with lingering flavours of ripe quince, pineapples, grapefruit, honeysuckle and even chrysanthemum.

Published in association with Vinum Eurus

Vinum Eurus’s main UK contacts are Toby Spiers and Zhentian Xie, one of the co-founders. The company exhibited for the first time at this year’s London Wine Fair and embarked on a series of UK trade events this autumn. Independents can access stock from LCB in bond or from duty-paid stock.

Visit vinumeurus.com or email business@vinumeurus.com

magic that makes the difference

Ivo Varbanov is an internationally-renowned concert pianist who also makes, and imports, wines.

He sees parallels between his two chosen art forms, arguing that that it’s the unexplained 1% that elevates music, and wine, to something special.

Find out more about the range at ivovarbanov.com or email ivo@ivovarbanov.com

Feature published in association with

What inspired you to move from being a concert pianist to becoming a wine producer and importer?

Over past seasons I’ve performed in several countries, toured China, and had a recording with the English Chamber Orchestra released. Music remains at the heart of what I do. Alongside my career as a pianist, I developed a passion for wine that led me to plant a vineyard in Bulgaria. Importing came later, as a way to share both my own wines and those of producers I trust with a wider audience.

How do your artistic background and your winemaking philosophy connect?

My Hungarian piano professor –descending directly from the school of Franz Liszt – used to say piano playing is 33% hands, 33% brain, 33% soul –with 1% left unexplained, the magic that makes the difference. Wine is the same: soil, grape, and weather, plus that human touch which turns it into something unforgettable.

Why Bulgaria – and why also Italy, Slovenia, Greece, and Spain?

I’m Bulgarian, and my 15 hectares of land there are the foundation of everything I do. Since 2012 I’ve also been importing my own wines, along with some carefully selected Bulgarian producers, into the UK. After the pandemic it made sense to broaden the range: I already had a presence in London, so it was a matter of building on that rather than starting over. Italy is especially close to my heart. I grew up there, my mother still lives there, and my wife is from Tuscany. Many of my relationships with Italian producers go back two decades – I am not that old –based on friendship and trust. Expanding into Slovenia, Greece, and Spain followed naturally – I only work with people I know

personally, whose wines I’d happily drink myself.

What makes your portfolio different from others in the market?

I prefer not to be seen just as an “importer of Bulgarian wines”. My own wines, together with a handpicked selection from other Bulgarian producers, make up around 20% of the portfolio – and I find it very self-limiting to be defined only by that. There isn’t much shelf space for so-called “exotics”, so I balance them with a strong Italian range – nearly 100 labels – alongside carefully chosen wines from Spain, Greece and Slovenia.

After Brexit and Covid, we saw many importers playing it safe with well-known classics, or chasing the opposite extreme with ultra-obscure natural wines. Our aim has been to fill the middle ground: wines that taste great, are well-priced because we keep overheads low, and help wine lovers broaden their palate without gimmicks.

Up to now, we’ve mainly worked with top-end restaurants with great wine lists, where our wines often feature in the bythe-glass section, underlining both their value and versatility. We also collaborate with serious wine bars and specialist shops such as The Good Wine Shop, The Sampler, Bedales, and The Wine Library.

Since May 2025, our team has been strengthened by Filippo Pastorini, former director of wine and sake at the Sushi Samba Group. His experience in building one of London’s most dynamic beverage programmes brings another layer of expertise and vision to what we do.

With almost 200 labels, we feel ready to expand further. We don’t chase hipster labels or dogmatic natural wines – they can be fun, but often not worth a second purchase. For us, the real challenge is not selling the first bottle, but the second. Wine

difference

should never be sold with defects dressed up as effects. The story matters, but ultimately what’s in the glass matters most.

Who do you like to work with?

We enjoy working with people who have a broad and balanced knowledge of wine, a well-trained palate, and genuine curiosity. For us, wine is about culture, craft and taste – not just the transaction. We value partners who appreciate the conviviality of wine, the human relationships behind every bottle, and who look beyond a simple tick-box approach such as “I must have a Chianti” or “I must have a Loire wine”. Wine deserves more respect than that – and we look for collaborators who share that view.

How do your wines help independent shops stand out from bigger rivals?

Our selection highlights regions and grape varieties that may be underrepresented in the UK but are far from obscure in their home countries. These are wines with serious reputations, made by producers who command respect for their history, their place in the denomination, and the sheer quality of their work. That combination of authenticity and excellence gives independents something supermarkets simply cannot offer.

What support do you provide to help shops sell your wines?

We generally begin with tastings alongside the shop owners, sharing everything we know about the wines and the producers behind them. We always suggest food pairings too – much like a sommelier would – because context helps customers connect with a bottle. For us, the route to success is simple: a wine should first prove itself on a wine list, then expand naturally into retail. We also love to run customer tastings, where we can pass on

our knowledge, passion, and enthusiasm –drawing on decades of experience as wine lovers, wine producers, wine importers, and wine directors.

Which of your wines are resonating most with adventurous UK drinkers?

We’re seeing excitement around lessexported regions and producers. From Liguria, we offer handpicked Pigato, Vermentino, Rossese and Ormeasco. From Greece, there’s Mouchtaro, Malagousia and Xinomavro from Naoussa. In Spain, we import the elegant wines of Clos Figueras from Priorat, owned by the Englishman Christopher Cannan. Slovenia brings us Protner, a reference point for Riesling – but not only that – in the country.

From Bulgaria, we champion indigenous

grapes such as Mavrud and Rubin, made in a purist style by Rossidi and some other newcomers. And of course, there are my own wines: crafted from international varieties, including my Syrah – widely recognised as one of Bulgaria’s leading examples. This wine and the other wines I make has had a long-standing presence in top restaurants and has been poured in the thousands of bottles, earning recognition and trust among discerning drinkers.

Italy remains a cornerstone, with wellpriced Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino from La Rasina, iconic Sicilian producers like Palari and Spadafora, benchmark Lagrein from Alto Adige by Muri Gries, and Cornarea, a defining producer for Roero Arneis. It’s a portfolio that rewards curiosity with genuine quality.

Clos Figueras in Priorat, owned by Englishman Christopher Cannan

Montelio in Lombardia is part of the Italian selection

Perfecting the art of port

Produced in the spectacular setting of Quinta dos Malvedos, Graham’s aged tawnies are must-stocks for independent merchants as the festive season approaches

Founded in 1820 by brothers William and John Graham, Graham’s Port quickly became known as a producer of exceptional wines. This success culminated in the building of the Graham’s Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia and the acquisition of Quinta dos Malvedos in 1890.

In 1882, Andrew James Symington sailed from Scotland to Porto to work for the Graham family, thus beginning the long association between the families. In 1970, Andrew’s grandsons acquired the company from the Graham family, and have continued to grow its reputation for producing incredible ports.

Quinta dos Malvedos has been the cornerstone of Graham’s vintage ports ever

since it was acquired in 1890. Installed in 2000, its modern lagares are designed to replicate the heat and gentle treading action of human feet. During the harvest, arriving grapes are sorted by hand before being gently destemmed and transferred to one of the lagares.

Once fermentation has taken place and the wines have been fortified, they are transferred to the lodge below and housed

in tonéis (large barrels) over the winter, before being taken to the Graham’s Lodge in Gaia.

Tawny ports are aged in seasoned oak casks to ensure good contact with oxygen. This causes the colour to change more rapidly: from the original deep purple-red to lovely tawny shades. A tawny’s colour and taste continue to develop over the years spent in cask.

Graham’s is one of the few remaining port houses to employ its own team of coopers. Their expertise in the ancient art of cooperage is fundamental to port winemaking, and especially for wines that spend decades ageing in the lodge.

Led by master cooper Snr Alberto, Graham’s coopers are responsible for the maintenance of each vat and cask throughout the lodge. At any one time, the lodge will have around 3,500 casks, holding several million litres of wine. As each cask is typically 75-100 years old, they require constant and careful attention.

Graham’s 40 Year Old Aged Tawny

Aged for an average of 40 years in seasoned oak casks, 40 Year Old Tawny is a testament to time and patience.

Composed of wines put aside generations ago, this is an incredible wine with an amazingly long finish, indicating both its age and immense quality. The wine is very complex on the nose with a powerful fragrance that belies its age. On the palate, an array of flavours from delicate fruit and raisins to toasted toffee and chocolate, with an outstanding aftertaste.

Graham’s 50 Year Old Aged Tawny

Carefully watched over by two generations of master blenders Peter and Charles Symington, 50 Year Old Tawny is a truly extraordinary wine with immense concentration and a remarkable, enduring finish.

Complex aromas unfold layers of orange blossom, fruitcake, toffee, tobacco and butterscotch. Rich and creamy on the palate with vibrant acidity and enchanting notes of seasoned wood, nutmeg and cinnamon, with a lingering, pleasurable finish.

Feature published in association with UK importer Fells

Find out more at about the ports from Graham’s and Quinta do Vesúvio at fells.co.uk

Known by many as “the queen of the Douro”, Quinta do Vesúvio’s magnificent house, chapel and winery were built in 1827 – almost two centuries ago – and its vineyards have been considered among the most important in the Douro throughout its long history. Covering an area of 137 hectares, Vesúvio’s vineyards have predominantly

Graham’s 80 Year Old Aged Tawny

Head winemaker and master blender Charles Symington blended this 80 Year Old Tawny Port to mark the 80th birthday of his father and predecessor, fourthgeneration family member Peter Symington, and celebrate his distinguished career. Such was its quality, the decision was taken to bottle and release it on a limited basis.

The luxuriantly textured, creamy palate is concentrated and gloriously smooth and polished with layers of complexity. There is soft caramel, mandarin orange, quince, praline, vanilla and then some butterscotch on the long aftertaste, which ends on notes of tobacco and black tea. The discreet acidity provides remarkable freshness, grace and balance.

Quinta do Vesúvio: queen of the Douro

northern and western exposures and altitudes ranging from 110 metres, near the Douro river, up to 450 metres. Considered a cornerstone of Douro winemaking by the Villa Maior Viscount in 1876, Quinta do Vesúvio was central to the Douro Superior’s development at that time.

Quinta do Vesúvio offers a concise selection of wines from the Douro Superior. These include the unoaked white and red Comboio do Vesúvio; the estate’s second wine, Pombal do Vesúvio; and finally, the exceptional Quinta wine, considered one of the finest wines in the Douro Valley.

VIN 2026

The annual London showcase of French wines – most seeking UK representation, others already imported – returns in January.

Forty French wine producers will be in attendance. VIN also plays host to the French Champion Awards, recognising UK trade figures who have made significant contributions to promoting French wine. Contact pandora.mistry@businessfrance. fr to register.

Thursday, January 8

Hyatt London

30 Portman Square London W1H 7BH

Charles Taylor Wines 2024 Burgundy En

Primeur

Taste wines from the 2024 vintage with some of the region’s most prominent winemakers.

The vintage was badly affected by wet weather conditions but many growers were delighted with the quality of what they were able to harvest.

This tasting features wines from all across Burgundy including Chablis, the Côte d’Or, Chalonnaise and Mâconnais.

Visiting producers include Samuel Billaud (Chablis), Sylvain Bzikot (PulignyMontrachet), Vincent Latour (Meursault) and Vincent & François Jouard (ChassagneMontrachet.) Domaines Michel Magnien, Lécheneaut, Ambroise and Château de Laborde (covering all the major villages of the Côte de Nuits) will also be represented. Request a place by emailing office@ charlestaylorwines.com.

Thursday, January 8

The Caledonian Club 9a Halkin Street

London SW1X 7DR

Thorman Hunt 2024 Burgundy En

Primeur

An extensive line-up of visiting producers will attend this tasting.

They include:

Chablis: Jean Collet, Nathalie et Gilles Fevre, Christian Moreau, Adrien Defaix and Lucie Thiéblemont.

Côte de Nuits: Philippe Gavignet, Michel Gros, Felettig, Anne et Herve Sigaut, Rene Bouvier, Philippe Livera and Marc Roy.

Côte de Beaune: Eric Boigelot, Fernand et Laurent Pillot, Latour-Giraud, Joseph Colin, Michel Niellon, Ballot-Millot, Simon Colin, Vincent Girardin and Georges Joillot.

Chalonnaise: Jaeger Defaix, François Raquillet, François Lumpp, Paul et Marie Jacqueson and Feuillat-Juillot.

Mâconnais: Croix Senaillet, Eric Forest and Nicolas Maillet.

For more information and to register contact vanessa@thormanhunt.co.uk.

Monday, January 12

67 Pall Mall

London SW1Y 5ES

Flint Wines 2024 2024 Burgundy En Primeur

Join the Flint family of growers as they kick off their 20th anniversary year at this 2024 tasting.

There will be around 50 domaines represented, with 70% of the growers in attendance and 100 to 150 wines to taste.

Highlights will include a horizontal tasting across a number of domaines to showcase a specific vineyard; and a blind tasting competition involving three wines, with the winners receiving a bottle of each.

Producers in attendance will include Cyprien Arlaud, Alex Moreau, Pierre Duroche, Amelie Berthaut, Bastien Duvernay, Benoit Riffault, La Famille Gouges, Charles Magnien, Charles Van Canneyt, Chales Ballot and Charles Boigelot.

Email marketing@flintwines.com.

Tuesday, January 13

The Royal Horseguards Hotel

Whitehall Place, 2 Whitehall Court

London SW1A 2EJ

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

TRADE TASTING 2026

• 1,000+ wines in London, 350+ wines in Edinburgh

• Meet winemakers, winery owners and principals

• Taste the latest vintages from iconic producers

• Discover alternative grape varieties and new wave styles

• Competition for independent off-trade buyers to win a trip to Australia

More information and sign up to attend via the QR code

Contact: uk@wineaustralia.com, sarahs@nzwine.com

London

Tuesday 27th January 2026

10:00 - 17:00

Lindley Hall Royal Horticultural Halls, Elverton Street, London, SW1P 2QW

Edinburgh

Thursday 29th January 2026

11:00 - 17:00

Sheraton Grand Hotel, 1 Festival Square, Edinburgh, EH3 9SR

Following the success of last year's Loire Masterclass hosted by Beverley Blanning MW, we're excited to offer another exclusive event at our upcoming Loire Valley Portfolio Tasting.

Register for the main tasting & further details about the Masterclass will be emailed to you.

JOIN US FOR OUR ANNUAL LOIRE VALLEY PORTFOLIO TASTING

Save the date & register for the UK’s largest Loire Valley wine tasting, taking place in January 2026 at the stunning Glaziers Hall in London.

This exclusive trade-only event will feature around 250 wines from some of the finest producers in the region we are lucky to have several joining us in person on the day.

Don't miss this exceptional opportunity to explore the diversity and quality of Loire Valley wines in one of London’s premier tasting venues.

Register now to secure your place.

Since being established in 1990, Charles Sydney Wines has become one of the largest importers of premium Loire Wines to the UK market. We supply outstanding wines to all sectors of the UK trade, with a commitment to delivering exceptional service to both our customers and the producers we represent.

Venue: Glaziers Hall, London, SE1 9DD

Date: Thursday 22nd Jan 2026

Time: 10am-4pm

Who: Trade only please, registration required.

Maltby & Greek Portfolio Tasting

Owners Yannos Hadjiioannou and Stefanos Kokotos will be introducing five new winemakers and new wines from existing producers.

Discussions and masterclasses are scheduled at 11am, 1pm and 3pm. Register: me@natasha-najm.com.

Monday, January 19

Shoreditch Arts Club

6 Redchurch Street

London E2 7DD

Borsa Vini Italiani

Tasting

This year’s tasting will feature 44 producers from across Italy offering the opportunity to taste more than 300 wines.

The range is described as focusing on “iconic appellations to emerging areas that reflect new trends in Italian viticulture”. A masterclass will take place discussing topical themes for 2025, including innovation, sustainability and market evolution.

Register by emailing c.povero.ext@ice.it.

Wednesday, January 21

IET London

2 Savoy Place, Riverside Room

London WC2R 0BL

Charles Sydney

Wines Loire

Valley Portfolio

Tasting

A tasting offering the opportunity to taste the new vintages from what’s claimed to be the largest selection of Loire Valley wines available in the UK.

There will be a broad selection of 2025 whites and rosés, covering all the major Loire appellations, as well as the new vintage releases of barrel-fermented whites, reds and dessert wines.

Alongside will be a selection of Crémant de Loire and other sparkling wines.

Confirm your place before attending by emailing chris@charlessydneywines.com.

Thursday, January 22

Glaziers Hall

9 Montague Close

London Bridge

London SE1 9DD

Winetraders

Italian Portfolio

Tasting

The team at Winetraders once again champion undiscovered, artisan winemakers at their quarter-century portfolio tasting.

Producers showcasing their wines will include Cornelissen, Miani, Inama and Massa from grapes such as Nerello Mascalese, Timorasso, Rossese and Bellone, all introduced to the UK market by Winetraders.

For more information and to register for this year’s event contact edmund@ winetradersuk.com.

Monday, January 26

67 Pall Mall

London SW1Y 5ES

Australia and New Zealand

Trade Tasting

Once again Wine Australia and New Zealand Winegrowers join forces to show their wines in London and Edinburgh.

Guests will have the chance to seek out new offerings with more 1,000 wines to

taste in London and 350 in Edinburgh, while also revisiting the classics, meeting the winemakers and catching up with importers.

Themes will include discovering alternative grape varieties and new wave styles along with exploring wines made by organic, biodynamic and sustainable champions.

For more information and to register email uk@wineaustralia.com or sarahs@ nzwine.com – or scan the QR code found on page 75.

Tuesday, January 27

RHS Lindley Hall

Elverton Street

London SW1P 2QW

Thursday, January 29

The Balmoral

1 Princes Street

Edinburgh EH2 2EQ

Premier League of Spanish Wines 2026

This third-edition Spanish wine fair will feature over 225 wines from more than 20 renowned Spanish wineries all under one roof.

This tasting offers, according to C&D Wine & Food, a comprehensive journey through “the legendary reds of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the bold expressions of Toro and Tudela, to the elegant whites of Rías Baixas and Godello, and the expressive Mencía from Bierzo”.

Visitors can also explore the Mediterranean coastal wines from Penedès, Requena, Alicante and Málaga, and the traditional fortified wines from Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

For more information and to register email drinks@canddwines.co.uk.

Tuesday, January 27

Westminster Chapel

Buckingham Gate

London SW1E 6BS

ASK Phoebe

Phoebe Weller of Valhalla's Goat in Glasgow is our unregulated agony aunt

Condiment cad causes cardboard consternation

Dear Phoebe

I have a number of condiments at work, which means I can happily eat cardboard with a layer of mayonnaise when other snack options are not forthcoming or there is no time to go foraging. Recently I have noticed that when I go back to my mayonnaise it is significantly diminished. Someone has been “at it” without asking and without replacing. I think it’s Fiona; she isn’t saying anything but I have noticed increased xanthelasma around her eyes. Jane is also looking shifty but I can never get anything out of Jane. I am tired of having to buy more mayonnaise every time I want a piece of cardboard. Help! Derek, Looe

Dear Derek

What a pickle!

The older I get the clearer it becomes that certain names have bad energy – it is obvious to me that the problem is syllables. Fionas are never to be trusted as, despite their brevity of letters – only five! – she has crammed too many syllables into them. This is obviously annoying, fussy and nefarious. Single-syllabled types are more straightforward but swing between bonkers and, like your cardboard, horrifically boring. See also Jo, Fi, Tom, Mo, Lou, Stu, Hew, Hugh, Ann, Sam, Dick. Although, having said that, some of them with secret letters: AnnE, DiCK, HuGH, CHris, SEAn – have powerful energy that mystically massages social tensions. Best to limit your colleagues to those with two syllables – at a push, three –but make sure that those syllables are contained within an appropriate amount of letters. HTH!

Serving suggestion

I want to join Jim, but there’s a queue

Dear Phoebe

Jim is a babe, and my customer. Recently my colleagues have been trying to chat him up, lure him into their clutches. I’m not surprised, he’s fit and fashionable and funny and more often than not buys something. I don’t want to share him, and I can tell that all he really wants to do is see me. I want to tell my colleagues to back off. Should I?

Klaus, Cumbernauld

Hi Klaus

Jim is not yours. Nothing is yours. Clinging to things, be they customers, cups or concepts, is just going to cause you pain. You’re also being a creep. Who do you think you are? No but really, who do you think you are, do you think you are? You are but you are not. In the bit of you that

are, this are Creepsville. Also is it not better that Jim feels the scarcity of your attention? That he can bask in the golden light of your energy when the time is right, when everything aligns?

One more thing, a customer is a customer is a customer. Don’t cross the streams on the floor. Streams can only be crossed in neutral space. HTH.

Help me make it through the night

Dear Phoebe

How can I get through the night without you?

LeAnn, Didsbury

Darling LeAnn

Couple of paracetamols, reishi, some of that tea that smells like feet, a line of Ovaltine, hot water bottle. HTH.

QUIZ TIME

to questions on page 31

Unbottling

with Rachel Gibson MBACP

Avoiding burnout

Did you dread coming to work today, perhaps arriving late for no obvious reason? Are you showing signs of negativity or apathy towards your colleagues and customers? Perhaps you’re selfmedicating with too much alcohol or blocking out your reality with endless doom scrolling? Are you struggling to sleep, experiencing anger problems, constant worrying, feeling emotionally drained and mentally distant? It could be that you are in the wrong job! But it could also be that you are experiencing mental burnout.

The wine trade is often hard work, but the run-up to Christmas can be completely exhausting. There are a million things to juggle and the new year still feels a very long way off. It is incredibly important to consider your self care during these times.

Self care is not the same as leisure time. Self care is about connecting with your self: your body, your thoughts and your emotions. Modern entertainment and mental distractions, such as our phones, mean we may stop being consciously aware of our selves.

Consider the type of personality you are and what truly nourishes your sense of wellbeing. Self care means different things to different people. Having a long bath with scented candles may be total bliss for some, but a boring waste of time for others. What is it that uniquely creates your sense of personal enrichment, self-fulfilment and, dare I say it, a feeling of total awe in your life? This is what true self care is about. I will be quietly gazing up at the moon, the stars and the constellations on a crisp, clear evening, wrapped in my cosy old jumper, with a glass of my favourite Central Otago Pinot in hand. Find what works for you, and create a little space to embrace it.

Rachel is an integrative counsellor and a member of the British Association for Counselling & Psychotherapy. She formerly ran Wine Utopia in Winchester. To support clients in the wine trade, she offers ongoing online counselling sessions at the reduced rate of £35 per 50 minutes, so mention this article. Email rachel@rachelgibsoncounselling.co.uk.

ivo@ivovarbanov.com www.ivovarbanov.com

Telephone: 07956 377705

Three Italian regions – one classic name and two hidden gems

1. Terre Boscaratto – Prosecco Brut DOCG (Veneto, Italy)

A tiny, family-run estate in the heart of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, Terre Boscaratto crafts Prosecco with artisanal care and deep respect for the terroir. Their Brut DOCG stands out for its purity, precision, and mineral freshness – a far cry from the mass-produced “usual suspects.” This is serious Prosecco, elegant yet joyful, and remarkably good value.

2. Albana “Vitalba” – Tre Monti (Emilia-Romagna, Italy)

A pioneering estate in the hills of Imola, Tre Monti has long been at the forefront of Emilia-Romagna’s quality renaissance. Their skinfermented Albana “Vitalba,” aged in amphora, expresses generous fruit, texture, and a hedonistic complexity that has made it a benchmark for the region’s indigenous white grape.

3. Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG – Le Thadee (Umbria, Italy)

Founded in 2018 by a young team, Le Thadee is one of Umbria’s most exciting new wineries. Their Sagrantino shows an unexpected grace – silky and drinkable even in its youth, without losing the structure and depth that define this noble grape. Trebbiano Spoletino also impresses, confirming Le Thadee as a name to watch.

info@mentzendorff.co.uk www.mentzendorff.co.uk

schenk family uk

Unit 5, The E Centre

Easthampstead Road

Bracknell RG12 1NF

01753 521336

info@buckingham-schenk.co.uk www.buckingham-schenk.co.uk

@schenkfamilyuk

liberty wines

020 7720 5350

order@libertywines.co.uk www.libertywines.co.uk

@liberty_wines

Our long-term commitment to sustainability

At Liberty Wines we believe we have a duty to help curb climate change, protect our producers' vineyards and safeguard the future of the global wine industry. In 2014, we became the UK’s first carbon-neutral certified wine company and, since 2021, are the UK’s only wine supplier with Carbon Neutral + accreditation.

As around half of a bottle of wine’s carbon footprint lies in its packaging and transportation, our focus for the last 10 years has been on lowering emissions in our supply chain by working with producers to reduce bottle weights and prioritising more carbon-efficient shipping. In 2024/25, for example, 90% of our Italian wines were exported to the UK by rail, reducing emissions by -64% versus road transport, while 84% of our Portuguese wines and 73% of our Spanish wines were shipped via a short sea service, reducing emissions by -63% and -46% respectively. Closer to home, our London headquarters and Basingstoke warehouse are now powered by up to 63% solar energy and have a 100% recycling rate with zero waste to landfill.

While proud of our progress, we know there is more to do and continually pursue ways to minimise our environmental impact and deliver wines to you, our customers, as sustainably as possible. If you have any questions or would like further information on our initiatives, our organic- and biodynamic-certified wines, or carbon-neutral and B Corp-certified producers, please get in touch with your Liberty Wines sales representative.

hatch mansfield

New Bank House

1 Brockenhurst Road

Ascot SL5 9DL 01344 871800

info@hatch.co.uk www.hatchmansfield.com

Hatch Mansfield

hatchmansfield

AWIN BARRATT SIEGEL WINE AGENCIES

28 Recreation Ground Road

Stamford

Lincolnshire PE9 1EW 01780 755810

orders@abs.wine www.abs.wine

@ABSWines

richmond wine agencies

The Links, Popham Close Hanworth TW13 6JE

020 8744 5550

Mark Isham, south & London: mark@richmondwineagencies.com

Tim Hawtin, south west & London: tim@richmondwineagencies.com

Julia Langshaw, north of the UK: julia@richmondwineagencies.com

Monika Kent, north of UK monika@richmondwineagencies.com

walker & Wodehouse

Ground Floor

Bibendum Matthew Clark 16 St Martin’s Le Grand London EC1A 4EN

0207 449 1665 orders@walkerwodehousewines.com www.walkerwodehousewines.com

@WalkerWodehouse

Risk All: the new Rioja Reserva exclusive to RWA

We are pleased to present the new Rioja Reserva 2021 from Marqués de Riscal. Risk All is exclusive to RWA and specialist retailers and wholesalers.

Chosen from the best premium reserva barrels, this Rioja has an intense black-cherry colour with very expressive aromas of liquorice, cinnamon and black pepper. Fresh on the palate and easy to drink with good backbone and lovely, polished tannins. The finish is long and persistent with subtle balsamic notes. On promotion October-December and available in bottles (promo RRP £21) and two-bottle gift packs (promo RRP £50)

Marqués de Riscal has been named the World’s Best Vineyard 2024, a distinction that cements its place at the pinnacle of winemaking. To celebrate, the winery is launching its bold new Risk All campaign, which embodies its spirit of daring innovation.

Using graphic art by Spain’s awardwinning designer Isidro Ferrer, the campaign illuminates three defining acts in its history: introducing the Bordeaux method to Rioja; surviving and gaining international recognition during the phylloxera crisis under Juana Zavala y Guzmán and building the iconic Gehry-designed Hotel at the City of Wine.

Sparkling winter specials

We are warming up your winter with fantastic offers across an extensive range of popular wines sparkling running till the New Year.

Graham Beck Artisan Series Pinot Meunier, Robertson, SA Renowned as South Africa’s benchmark for Cap Classique, Graham Beck crafts sparkling wines of elegance and precision. Bright and creamy with notes of stone fruit, citrus and toasted almond, finishing with a hint of spice.

Balfour Leslie’s Reserve Brut, Kent, England

A crisp and elegant English sparkling wine with bright citrus, green apple and a subtle brioche finish, lifted by a hint of spice from Pinot Gris.

Bailly Lapierre Crémant de Bourgogne, Burgundy, France

This Blanc de Blancs showcases Bailly Lapierre’s finesse in sparkling winemaking, offering crisp apple, citrus, and subtle brioche notes with a mineral-driven, elegant finish.

Please contact your account manager for more information or to place and order.

Fells

Fells House, Station Road

Kings Langley WD4 8LH

01442 870 900

For more details about these wines and other wines from our awardwinning portfolio from some of the world’s leading wine producing families contact:

info@fells.co.uk www.fells.co.uk

@FellsWine

je_fells

Fells welcomes Bodega Lagarde to their portfolio

Another premium family-owned producer puts their trust in Fells! This month we’re delighted to welcome one of Argentina’s oldest wineries to our portfolio. Since 1897 Bodega Lagarde has crafted wines as spectacular as the Andes scenery that serves as its backdrop. From high-altitude Chardonnay to classic Mendoza Malbec, the Pescarmona sisters are making wines we can’t wait to introduce to UK glasses.

delibo wine agencies

The Old Pigsty, Rose Cottage Church Hanborough OX29 8AA

07802 405627

orders@delibo.co.uk jamesfleetwood@delibo.co.uk robertewing@delibo.co.uk johnnybingham@delibo.co.uk gyorgyzsiga@delibo.co.uk www.delibo.co.uk

jeroboams trade

7-9 Elliott’s Place London N1 8HX 020 7288 8888

sales@jeroboamstrade.co.uk www.jeroboamstrade.co.uk

@jeroboamstrade

Southern Rhône savoir-faire from Delibo!

Domaine de Font-Sane

This 16ha HVE-certified family estate dates back to 1860 in Gigondas. Véronique Peysson produces sleek, intense, impressive wines which receive annual accolades from Jancis Robinson, Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter – but don’t just take their word for it!

Réserve de Fleur

We are proud of our own blend, Syrah dominant, Réserve de Fleur Côtes-du-Rhône. These “natural” wines are unoaked, unfined and unfiltered, for texture, outstanding depth of flavour and Mediterranean sunshine in a bottle.

Contact your account manager for details of the November offers we have from these sustainable producers …

hallgarten wines

Mulberry House

Parkland Square

750 Capability Green

Luton LU1 3LU

01582 722 538

sales@hnwines.co.uk www.hnwines.co.uk

@hnwines

top selection

23 Cellini Street

London SW8 2LF

www.topselection.co.uk info@topselection.co.uk

Contact: Alastair Moss

Telephone: 020 3958 0744

@topselectionwines

@topselection

Owned by the Ciacci family, Tenuta di Sesta is one of the founding Brunello di Montalcino DOCG estates; producing exceptional, sitedriven Sangiovese wines in a classical style that deliver great value and drinking pleasure.

“I’d love to go back in time to taste the wines from the past”

Miles Corish MW

Milestone Wines and Heritage Wine Co

Born in Sydney, Miles started as a sales rep for Marie Brizzard before coming to England to play professional cricket. He went on to split his time between making wine in the Hunter Valley and working in the UK wine trade. He established import and wholesale business Milestone Wines in 2017, two years after becoming an MW.

What’s the first wine you remember drinking?

Aside from dipping into my old man’s bag-in-box (or Château Cardboard as he called it), I remember a heavily oaked, yellow coloured Rosemount Roxburgh Chardonnay leaving a lasting impression. These were the days when 200% new oak was all the rage and my pursuit of finesse began in earnest.

What job would you be doing if you weren’t in the wine trade?

Having studied business and marketing, I always fancied a career in finance. But the more exposure I had to wine, the more I wanted to learn about it. I became fascinated as to why the same variety tastes so different depending on its origins, and consequentially I left a promising job in fundraising to become a sales rep in Sydney. I’ve never looked back since.

How do you relax?

When I get the chance, I love to fish. There is something magical about being on (or in) the water. It’s a great way to spend time surrounded by nature and just switch off.

What’s the best book you’ve recently read?

Jab, Jab, Jab, Right Hook by Gary

Vaynerchuk. I’ve always been a fan of Gary Vee and his views on marketing – in so much as you must add value rather than just expect people to respond to offers without prior engagement.

Give us a TV recommendation. Mob Land. There’s something captivating about gangster families.

Do you have any sporting loyalties?

Manchester United. As an Australian, I’m a classic example of the type of Man U fan that people love to take the piss out of! However, when I was growing up, and at a time when most Aussies went for Liverpool (courtesy of Craig Johnston), my first proper football coach was an ex-Man U player – hence the allegiance.

Who’s your favourite music artist? David Bowie. Surely one of the most

talented creative artists of the modern era – no one comes close in my mind. It’s incredible how he stayed relevant over the decades, and he was a great bloke to boot.

Any superstitions?

Yes, a few. Don’t walk under ladders, don’t open an umbrella indoors … and a couple of cricket ones also.

Who’s your favourite wine critic?

I admire Jancis Robinson MW and James Halliday for all that they have done for our industry, and Tim Atkin MW, to name a few.

What’s your most treasured possession?

I would say my family. I know that this isn’t really a possession, but they always matter the most to me.

What’s your proudest moment?

Aside from the birth of my boys, I would say the day that I passed the MW is right up there. I still remember the phone call and the celebrations that followed.

What’s your biggest regret?

I don’t really have that many. Hindsight is a great thing – and we all make decisions with the best intention at the time – hence there’s no real point in spending too long looking in the rearview mirror. I have always tried to learn from my mistakes, and I’ve tried not to make the same ones again – which is easier said than done.

Who’s your hero?

My parents. Having kids of my own, I now look back at their sacrifices and I’m very grateful for their support over the years.

Any hidden talents?

I captain a cricket team in the Lancashire league and although nowadays I need to be hidden in the field, I still can’t seem to put the bat away for good. I look forward to playing with our two lads (12 and 14) – who much to my amusement sound a lot more Lancastrian than their parents.

What’s your favourite place in the UK?

Anywhere near a river. Having grown up around water, my favourite places in the UK are some of its waterways.

If we could grant you one wish, what would it be?

Time travel. I would love to go back in time to taste the wines from the past and see just how good they were.