Indies Roussillon Top 20
Meet the judges
Charlotte Fenwick, VIN, Gateshead
Dawn Mannis, The Sampler, north London
Bryan Houde, Wine Monkey, Chippenham
Paul Morgan, Fourth & Church, Hove
Tolga Koymen, Bacchus N4, London
Ilkay Koymen, Bacchus N4, London
Ten independent merchants were invited to blind taste their way through almost 100 wines from one of France's most exciting regions.
Our panel represented a good cross-section of the independent trade. It included the owners of some of the best-known merchants in the UK, as well as some of the most dynamic newcomers.
Some were already knowledgeable about Roussillon and its wines. Others were on more of a learning curve. All were keen to make discoveries and to broaden their understanding of the region.
The wines were flighted by style and appellation, and tasted blind, at the Alfred Tennyson in Belgravia.
Read what they have to say about their favourites in the coming pages. And, on page 9, you can find feedback from three more UK indies who took part in a buying trip to the region in April.
Philip Amps, Amps Wine Merchants, Oundle
Simon Taylor, Stone, Vine & Sun, Hampshire
Liam Plowman, Wild + Lees, south London
Virginia Myers, Tenaya Wine, Sheffield
“I do have some wines from the Roussillon region already and tend to find them to be great value. I was pleasantly surprised by the white wines and rosés – I really liked them, and they were so much more varied than I thought they'd be. The tasting did inspire me to consider adding some more Roussillon wines to my range.
Virginia Myers, Tenaya Wine
“Roussillon is definitely an area we would like to include more wines from, and the event confirmed that. On the whole, the quality of the wines was excellent.
Charlotte Fenwick, Victor Indigo November
“It was a surprise for us that there could be so many impressive wines in a single tasting. We are planning to add some whites and rosés.
Ilkay and Tolga Koymen, Bacchus N4
“
Roussillon plays a very large part in my range. I work closely with several producers from the region. Roussillon wines deliver so much of what my customers like: intensity, body, strength and a gentle price point. The tasting renewed my passion for the region and the incredibly powerful wines that it can produce. I will be listing more as and when I can.
Bryan Houde, Wine Monkey
Domaine of the Bee
Field of the Bee 2023
IGP Côtes Catalanes
A small, artisanal project by British-born MW Justin Howard-Sneyd and his wife Amanda. Justin now works closely with local icon JeanMarc Lafage, making his wines in the corner of Jean-Marc’s cellar as well as trusting his watchful eye to tend Justin’s vines in his absence.
This cuvée, made from ancient vines belonging to Jean-Marc, some of which are over 100 years old, is a blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne.
“Rich in style with lovely texture and brightness. Flowers and white peach as well as something a little zesty,” the judges said. “Great balance between zip and weight.”
Arcadian Wines, RRP £18 domaineofthebee.com
Château Saint-Roch
Tangerina 2022
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Château Saint-Roch is the boutique side project of Jean-Marc Lafage.
This orange cuvée is made up of Grenache Gris, Macabeu and Muscat. The Grenache Gris is fermented in open-top 500-litre barrels, with half kept as whole bunch for carbonic maceration and the other half fermented with destemmed grapes. The Muscat and Macabeu are also barrel fermented and macerated on the skins for a week after fermentation. The wine then ages for six months in barrel.
“Perfectly judged orange showing just enough skin contact without overwhelming the fruit. Spicy and aromatic with orange oil, peach, apricot and a floral lift,” the judges said.
Enotria&Coe, RRP £19.50 enotriacoe.com
Domaine des Enfants
Tabula Rasa 2022
IGP Côtes Catalanes
This is a story of how owner Marcel Bühler had a childhood dream of working with nature. In 2006, Marcel rekindled those childhood ambitions by ditching his previous job and creating this project in Roussillon.
The Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Carignan Blanc and Macabeu for this cuvée are found scattered within old red wine vineyards, so naturally these grapes need to be specially selected and hand-harvested.
“This is exactly what you would expect from white Roussillon. Bespoke and lush with a rich concentration of juicy stone fruit, caramelised pears and white blossom,” the judges said.
Ex-cellar, €11 domaine-des-enfants.com
Domaine Mas Cremat
Les Tamarius 2023
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Cremat, a word meaning burned in Catalan, is a nod to the unique black schist soils of the Agly valley.
This supple blend of 45% Syrah, 45% Grenache and 10% Marselan is the entry-level red from the domaine. It prioritises freshness and fruit purity with all vinification and ageing taking place in stainless steel.
“It’s classic, value-driven Roussillon. Light and easy-going with lots of fresh ripe fruit and authentic whiffs of garrigue,” the judges said, adding:“There’s great weight on the palate with a soft round mouth feel and some delicate tannins.”
Ex-cellar, €4 mascremat.com
Mas Baux
La Vie en Rouge 2023
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Ex-rugby player Serge Baux traded his love for the sport for a life in winemaking when he bought the 1,000-year-old estate in 1998, with the aim of reviving this forgotten piece of land.
Baux holds a deep respect for his environment and the laws of nature. This organic 100% Syrah, grown in a windy, sun-scorched spot just 4km from the Mediterranean, derives from low yields of 35hl/ha and made in the absence of oak.
“This just screams Mediterranean. It’s savoury and lush with layers of ripe dark fruit. Chill this down and it’s a perfect summer red,” the judges said.
Ex-cellar, €5.10 mas-baux.com
Le Soula
Rouge 2021
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Certified organic since 2001 and biodynamic from 2009, Le Soula makes wine in the highaltitude area of the Fenouillèdes. After importing wines from Roussillon into the UK in the 90s, Roy Richards and Mark Walford decided to exploit the region for themselves and established Le Soula at the start of the millennium.
Le Soula Rouge comes from sites up to 650m of altitude on decomposed granite soils. Yields are really low at just 15hl/ha and the wine is aged in old, large-format oak for 18 months.
“Dark and brooding with an intriguing wildness. A clean line of acidity fronts a balanced structure as baking spices and dried flowers whirl on a long finish,” said the judges.
Thorman Hunt, RRP £32
Domaine de la Pertuisane
Pompier 2023
IGP Côtes Catalanes
The story of of Domaine de la Pertuisane started in 2002 when winemaker Richard Case and his wife Sarah acquired two hectares of ancient Grenache bush vines surrounding the town of Maury. By 2003 the couple had added eight more hectares, smitten with the unforgiving landscape of the Pyrenees.
Pertuisane's vines are up to 100 years old, dry-farmed on austere black schist soils, with yields as low as 10hl/ha as a result.
“Beautiful. Rich, soft and complex with a luscious balance of fruit, spice and earthiness. Everything you would want from Roussillon,” said the judges.
Ex-cellar, €6.50 pertuisane.com
Mas Llossanes
Pure Syrah 2020
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Mas Llossanes is one of the highest vineyards in France with plantings dating back to the 1940s. Owners Dominique and Solenn Génot managed a Tuscan property, inspiring them to create a project of their own. Mas Llossanes ticked all their boxes.
The Pure Syrah is made from the best plot of vines on the site, located at 650 metres’ elevation on granite soils. The juice from these 75-year-old vines is aged for 24 month in oak.
“Excellent intensity and freshness with a tight structure that ensures a long life ahead,” the judges said. “Very polished with a savoury olive character, with cedar, crushed rocks and blueberry cream.”
Ex-cellar, €22.50 masllossanes.fr
Domaine des Chênes
Les Magdaléniens 2022
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
The Razungles family has owned Domaine des Chênes for over a century. Nestled in the quaint village of Vingrau and surrounded by calcareous cliffs, the domaine spans 30 hectares across the area’s best terroirs. Only garrigue, pines and holm oaks survive the tough conditions.
Les Magdaléniens is an expression of predominantly Roussanne supported by a range of old-vine white varieties including Grenache Gris. The vines are planted on limestone soils that extend around the base of the cliffs. The wine is fermented and aged in barrel.
“A complex, intriguing wine with layers of flavour. Lush with soft stone fruits, fennel, orange custard, green fig and nutmeg,” said the judges.
Ex-cellar, €7.75 domainedeschenes.fr
Domaine Mas Cremat
L’Envie 2023
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
Another winner from Domaine Mas Cremat, blending 45% Syrah, 45% Grenache Noir and 10% Marselan. The domaine handpicks and vinifies each plot separately to preserve a transparency of terroir. Organic and regenerative practices in the vineyard encourage optimal quality fruit that speaks for itself in the winery. Composting, cover cropping, winter sowing and soil enrichment by sheep are all part of the process.
“Delicious, sweet berry fruit and fresh garrigue jumps out of the glass. It’s delicate, bright and ever so moreish,” the judges said. “Smooth and soft on the palate, with great length for the price.”
Ex-cellar, €5.50 mascremat.com
Domaine of the Bee
Bee Pink 2023
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
Another judges’ favourite from Domaine of the Bee. Working again with fruit from his friends at Domaine Lafage, Justin Howard-Sneyd MW has made this Provence-style rosé from Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris and Syrah.
The 2023 vintage was one of severe drought, a threat that Roussillon vignerons understand all too well. Vines struggled to produce a normal crop due to unprecedented levels of hydric stress. This resulted in lower yields of smaller, more concentrated berries.
“This has everything you would want from this style of wine. Fresh and delicate with strawberries, cream and some herbal notes,” the judges said.
Arcadian Wines, RRP £16 domaineofthebee.com
Château Nadal Hainaut Odyssée 2019
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
Despite the winegrowing history of the Hainaut family dating back to the 12th century, it wasn’t until 1900, and the marriage of Thérèse Hainaut and François Nadal, that the château as it is known today was born. Six generations have since emerged and the Carignan Noir that was planted as a celebration of the union is now more than 100 years old.
Odyssée is an organic blend of 65% Syrah and 35% Grenache Noir, packaged beautifully.
“Lots of black olive tapenade; it’s a chewy, hearty mouthful of a wine that grows in the glass. The sweetness of the fruit tempers its dryness. Gastronomic and amazing value for money,” said the judges.
Vindependents, £19.50 vindependents.co.uk
Mas Janeil Arrels 2021
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages
From the François Lurton stable, this 60% Grenache Noir, 20% Carignan Noir, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre blend was a big hit with our tasters for its combination of intensity and drinkability.
The vineyard is divided into four main sections running along the Corbières Massif.
“Perfect,” said one of our judges. “All the Roussillon in one wine: sunshine, richness, big ripe fruit and balanced oak. Yummy.”
Others picked out sweet raspberry notes as well as more savoury undertones, and appreciated the intense dark colour – and the attractive price.
Ex-cellar, €9.50 masjaneil.com
Mas Bécha MVD 2020
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Les Aspres
Mas Bécha has been owned by Charles Perez since 2008, who works hard to preserve the natural attributes of the dry, sun-baked environment in which he farms (aspres is a Catalan word for “arid”). He works organically, with minimum intervention and only stainless steel for ageing to preserve the freshness and vivacity of his grapes – in this case 80% Mourvèdre, with equal components of Grenache Noir and Syrah.
Tasters picked up on “herby, black olive, tobacco and chocolate” notes, and even iron, with one adding: “The tannins are just right. I love the dark fruit character.”
Ex-cellar, €33 masbecha.com
Domaine de Bila-Haut RI 2021 AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Lesquerde
This 80% Syrah, 20% Grenache and Carignan Noirs from M Chapoutier was one of the more expensive wines in the tasting, but judges felt it justified the asking price. It was one of the day’s highest-scoring wines, based not just on quality, but the value it represents.
The fruit comes from an area in Lesquerde where the grapes are last to ripen, on a gentle, north-facing slope.
“Good fruit and elegance, lovely aromatics … I don’t really want to spit,” said one taster.
Another described it as “rich, spicy and decadent”, while a third judge remarked on the wine’s “really good sweet fruit, with a bit of leather and bacon in the background”.
Hatch Mansfield, RRP £89.20
Domaine La Toupie
Sur 1 Fil Rouge 2022
AOP Maury Sec
This 12-hectare estate, established in 2012, makes Côtes du Roussillon Villages wines as well as Maury, working in a mainly north-facing terroir of schist and galet roulés.
Grenache Noir drives this particular blend, with Mourvèdre and Syrah each contributing 15%.
Our tasters loved the wine for a variety of reasons, with one picking out “dark chocolate, blue plum, flowers, blueberries and orange peel”, while others highlighted the black pepper seasoning and welcome structure provided by the tannins. “A good by-the-glass option,” suggested one merchant.
Ex-cellar, €7.10 domainelatoupie.com
Mark Bedford, Caviste, Hampshire
In Roussillon we’re talking authenticity; we’re talking people who know their styles incredibly well. One of the things I came away with intensely was, we didn’t meet anyone who was simply picking grapes, making wine, selling it at market. Each of them was trying to make the best wine they can. Don’t expect to be overpowered by the red wines – they can be remarkably delicate and complex.
Kenny Vannan, Villeneuve Wines, Peebles
Indies on Roussillon
Roussillon is an attractive landscape dominated by Mount Canigou. It’s rural, with lots of attractive villages. The white wines are fresh, dry and fruity, with minerality; the reds generally full and powerful, many with a hint of the garrigue. Then of course there are the famous sweet wines of Rivesaltes, which are available in red or white.
Neil Gladding, The Oxford Wine Co
Lodged between snow-capped mountains and the Mediterranean sea, there are a multitude of different terroirs and garrigues that give Roussillon an explosion of different wines to suit all palates. The wines I tasted – especially the dry whites –had a consistent freshness to them. Producers should be very confident about their prospects in the UK independent trade, especially with the new-wave dry wines.
Mas de la Devèze 2020
AOP Maury Sec
The Maury Sec appellation is fairly recent – it was created in 2011 – and was intended to give a higher profile to the area’s distinctively powerful red wines. This old domaine, set in a wild landscape and farmed sustainably, exemplifies the style that local vignerons were keen to promote. But it’s worth adding that several judges remarked on the 65% Grenache Noir, 27% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre blend's easygoing nature rather than just its intensity.
“Juicy ripe fruit, with powerful Grenache flavours – everything a Maury Sec should be, like a dry version of their sweet wines,” said one taster. “It’s more than just fruit-driven, with dried herbs and stewed strawberries and a little residual sugar,” added another.
Ex-cellar, €7.95 masdeladeveze.fr
Les Terres de Fagayra
Le Roc des Anges 2022
AOP Maury Blanc
The grapes (Grenaches Gris and Blanc and Macabeu) are harvested at the same time, with the variation in ripeness adding “liveliness and energy to the wine”, according to the producers.
It’s a policy that our judges didn’t know about when they tasted, but which clearly has the desired effect. “Beautiful,” said one taster. “It’s so balanced and the acidity is delicious. “Wow,” added another. “Such vibrancy – it dances on the tongue, with green tea notes.”
Several tasters also highlighted the balanced sweetness, which they felt had a gentle candied fruit vibe as well as a suggestion of gooseberries.
Les Caves de Pyrene, RRP £41.99
Domaine du Vent
Mistral 2021
AOP Muscat de Rivesaltes
The domaine might not have official organic certification but the vineyards are certainly farmed that way by Nathalie and Benjamin Boyer. The estate is named for the strong winds that whip across the Roussillon landscape.
One taster described the wine, a 50-50 blend of Muscat à Petits Grains and Muscat d'Alexandrie as “a tropical fruit basket”, adding: “There’s lots going on. It’s super-pure and fresh.” Others picked up on flavours of tangerines and lychees as well as notes of ginger and spice. There’s ample acidity to balance the exuberant fruit, and a “very textured mouth feel”, the judges said.
Ex-cellar, €5.60 domaineduvent.com
Domaine Vaquer
Solera 33 Ans
AOP Rivesaltes Ambré
The Vaquer family has been involved in this domaine since 1912, and releasing their own estate-bottled wines since 1967. It’s now a 16-hectare estate run by Frederique Vaquer, who achieves impressive results with her majestic old vines.
The blend here is 70% Grenaches Blanc and Gris, with 30% Macabeu.
Several judges remarked on the rich nutty flavours of the wine and enjoyed the slightly oxidised style. “Very good,” added one. “Café crème and apricot.” Another also picked out faint petrol notes and described the wine as “a lovely sweetie, in a lighter style than most”.
Ex-cellar, €16 domaine-vaquer.com
Highly Commended wines
Domaine Laurent Batlle, Equinoxe Blanc de
Noirs 2024 (white)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Grenache Noir
Ex-cellar, €6.50
Mas Baux, Baux Blond 2023 (white)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Muscat à Petits Grains
Ex-cellar, €5.10
Domaine F Jaubert, 100% C 2022 (white)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Chardonnay
Ex-cellar, €4.50
Mas Baux, Velours Rouge 2023 (red)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Grenache Noir/Syrah
Ex-cellar, €6.50
Terres Fidèles, Cami del Drac 2022 (red)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Carignan Noir
Alliance Wine, RRP £14.99
Domaine Lafage, Narassa 2022 (red)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Grenache Noir/Syrah
Hallgarten & Novum Wines, RRP £21.99
Torredemer-Mangin, Alba 2022 (red)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Carignan Noir
People’s Wine, RRP £36
Domaine of the Bee, Carignan 2022 (red)
IGP Côtes Catalanes
Carignan Noir
Arcadian Wines, RRP £25
Domaine La Toupie, Fine Fleur 2023 (white)
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
Grenache Blanc/Grenache Gris/Macabeu
Ex-cellar, €7
Mas Bécha, Hypgnosis 457 2022 (white)
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
Vermentino/Grenache Blanc/Macabeo
Ex-cellar, €17
Domaine Trilles, Incantation 2023 (red)
AOP Côtes du Roussillon
Syrah/Grenache Noir/Mourvèdre
Ex-cellar, €6.30
Domaine Rouaud, Têt Pourpre 2022 (red)
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Syrah/Carignan Noir
Ex-cellar, €8
Domaine Lafage, Les 11 Terrasses 2020 (red)
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres
Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache Noir
Hallgarten & Novum Wines, POA
SCV Maury, Maury Ambré 2016 (amber)
AOP Maury Ambré
Grenache Blanc/Macabeu
Ex-cellar, €11.44
