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The Varied Barrel Philosophies: How Nine Winemakers Approach Oak Regimens

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month in review WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY November 2020 • Volume XXVII No. 11 Editor Cyril Penn

Heartbreaking Harvest NOVEMBER 2020 WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY

Smoke Taint + Barrels

space, I described waking up to the mid-August lightning storms that sparked widespread fires across wine country and across the West Coast. As this issue heads off to subscribers, we’re facing another fire in Napa and Sonoma. So far, the fire has consumed more than 60,000 acres and damaged or destroyed more than 300 houses, as well as more than a dozen Napa wineries. The renowned restaurant and convention facilities at Meadowood, the resort and event hub that’s long hosted Auction Napa Valley, the Wine Writer’s Symposium and so many other unforgettable events, burned. Today, St. Helena, Calistoga, and Angwin are evacuated. It is gut-wrenching to see friends and colleagues evacuating, some losing homes. Many have already vowed to rebuild, but these losses will be felt for years. Our hearts go out to everyone that’s been affected at this difficult time, from the growers to hospitality professionals, cellar workers and wine lovers. Though it is tough dealing with the reality of these fire events becoming a more common occurrence, the expressions of kindness and sympathy we see from the wine community are encouraging. Besides the challenge of recovering and rebuilding, there’s a hospitality challenge and, to the extent grapes were exposed to smoke prior to harvest, a winemaking challenge. That said, growers and winemakers will move ahead. It’s been a difficult season, but wineries recognize they need to produce a 2020 vintage and can assume there’s going to be demand, even if the market has been a bit soft since 2018. It will be interesting to see how they adjust to meet consumer needs. Wineries and growers are working together to try to find the best solutions. The 2020 harvest came in light, with lower than anticipated yields, shifting the supply picture. We’ll continue to monitor the situation with coverage in print and online.

LAST MONTH IN THIS

Managing Editor Erin Kirschenmann

WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY November 2020 • $5.95

The Industry’s Leading Publication for Wineries and Growers

www.winebusiness.com

The Varied Barrel Philosophies: How Nine Winemakers Approach Oak Regimens

PLUS:

AI Application Maps Smoke Taint in Australian Vineyards New Brands Take a Backseat as Consumers Rely on Familiar Labels The Biggest, and Costliest, Mistake You Can Make in a Vineyard

PWV Editor Don Neel Eastern Editor Linda Jones McKee Copy Editor Paula Whiteside Contributors Miguel Altieri, Richard Carey, Lance Cutler, Kent Daane Sigfredo Fuentes, Claudia Gonzalez Viejo, W. Blake Gray, Mark Greenspan, Albie Miles, Clark Smith, Vasiliki Summerson, Eden Tongson, Serguei Triapitsyn, Houston Wilson Design & Production Scott Summers Director, Analytics Group Alan Talbot Editor, Wine Analytics Report Andrew Adams Web Developers Burke Pedersen, Peter Scarborough President & Publisher Eric Jorgensen

This month’s issue, as one might expect, includes news and information aimed at helping people produce and sell wine better. Clark Smith tells us about eight gamechanging winemaking innovations, while a group of winemakers share their philosophies for choosing barrels that best complement and enhance their styles of wine. Mark Greenspan reminds us why it is so crucial to choose the right rootstocks and outlines what to consider when making that choice. Lance Cutler interviews one of the great label designers of all time, we reveal the PACK Design Competition People’s Choice award winners and look at whether new brands can make it in this market. Our thoughts are with our colleagues and friends who are dealing with the aftermath of the fires. Here’s to rebuilding, renewal, and to making and selling the best wine possible. Cyril Penn – Editor

Associate Publisher Tamara Leon ADVERTISING Sales Director Amy Olmsted Account Executives Hooper Jones, Laura Lemos Account Support Representative Julia Willmers ADMINISTRATION Vice President – Data Management Lynne Skinner Circulation Liesl Stevenson Financial Controller Katie Kohfeld Database Content Analyst Leila Bradaran Research Assistant Sara Jennings Public Relations Mary Jorgensen Chairman Hugh Tietjen Publishing Consultant Ken Koppel For editorial or advertising inquiries, call 707-940-3920 or email info@winebusiness.com Copyright 2020 Wine Communications Group, Inc. Short passages can be quoted without permission but only if the information is attributed to Wine Business Monthly. Wine Business Monthly is distributed through an audited circulation. Those interested in subscribing for $39/year, or $58 for 2 years, call 800-895-9463 or subscribe online at www.winebusiness.com. You may also fill out the card in this magazine and send it in.

6 November 2020 WBM

contents

November 2020 • Volume XXVII No. 11 • The Industry’s Leading Publication for Wineries and Growers • www.winebusiness.com

winemaking

sales & marketing

Advances in Artiﬁcial Intelligence to Assess Smoke Contamination in Grapevines and Taint in Wines Due to Increased Bushﬁre Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Behind the Scenes

Sigfredo Fuentes, Eden Tongson, Vasiliki Summerson and Claudia Gonzalez Viejo

with Chuck House

Barrel Focus: Finding the Right Combination of Spices. . . . . . 18

Lance Cutler

Nine winemakers on their oak philosophies W. Blake Gray

Insight & Opinion: Eight Recent Game-Changing Technologies for Small Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Clark Smith

2020 WBM Closure Survey Report Use of Technical Corks Continues to Rise. . . . . 36

2020 PACK Design Awards . People’s . . . . . . Choice . . . . . . . . 74 Retail Sales Analysis Cabernet Leads Wine Sales 15 Percent Higher in August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Wines Vines Analytics

Two-Thirds of Wineries Do Not Calibrate Bottling Lines for Consistent O2 Cyril Penn

Product Review: An Update on GOfermentor Products . . . . . . . 42

technology & business

Richard Carey RECLAIM

TA S T I N G

EOUT YO U R H I D

your sitting in years ago, s Remembe r adventure ming of tree fort…drea you remained For hours, to be had. the salt air the treetops, nestled in sweet smells the warm mingling with carrying you s and pine, explored. of eucalyptu lands to be us away to distant your adventuro be can Today, although reality remains, bound or spirit beach . If you’re alone or grounding sharing moments to the hills, taken care we have you family thrills, the central that embodies of. A wine paradise found its start, a coast from venture forth. those who to all of in hand, a a surfboard Whether it’s or hiking the your shoulder saddle on hideout with reclaim your hillsides, TREE FORT.

Select Tank Suppliers . . . . . . . . . 52

NOTES

TOWERING WI NES, DEEP RO OTS.

BLANC VIGNON 2019 SAU crisp

The verdant valleys and hills of northern Italy are beloved for their rich nuanced wines. Here, culture and wonderfully you will find la Torre Guinigi, rising over an distinctive holm oaks. ancient city, adorned Our family roots run with deep in this storied heritage with Guinigi land, and we honor wines. Like the oak trees that that symbolize strength, it is our belief that each beauty and renewal, new vintage will inspire a sense of awe in you.

: bright &

and lime of grapefruit acidity, Fresh aromas bright palate with of herbs. oil. Clean and a pinch citrus flavors

IO OT GRIG 2019 PIN : bright & sweet

lead to a on the nose balanced by Garden aromas seamlessly bright palate juicy acidity.

RDO 2019 CHA

DESIGN INSPI R AT

ION Inspired by la Torre Guinigi which resides in Lucca, Italy, the pearlescent a laser-cut Guinigi tower black label features which shows the wine level as it descends. northern Italy ties with Bridging the historical our present-day family, the Guinigi logo shines to a touch of celeste with gold foil in addition blue along with modern tactile geometric shapes. shipper shows the skyline The bold and vibrant one would see in the city of Lucca looking towards the Guinigi tower.

N N AY

: crisp & fruity

a similar allude to passion Tropical aromas flavors of mango, zest. palate with fruit and orange

OT NOIR 2019 PIN

PROSECCO

: lush & juicy

N S P I R AT DESIGN I

Winemaker’s Trial Examining the Proﬁle Change from O2 During Fermentation in Cabernet Sauvignon. . . . . . . . 54 Wanting to create a richer, more opulent style of Cabernet Sauvignon, Alpha Omega winemaker, Henrik Poulsen, experimented with increased levels of oxygen during primary fermentation to see how that would affect tannin polymerization and yeast performance.

grape growing

ION

us California the adventuro Inspired by of where you versatility outdoors and of wine, the a fresh glass can enjoy of symbols a variety imagery shows water, sunshine a tree fort, are including bold colors A variety of varietals and more. te the five to closely used to differentia to adjectives in addition of the wine. flavor profile match the

RECLAIM @TREEFO

TREEFOR

TWINES.

COM

UVIGNO ERNET SA 2019 CAB & bold

: rich

PINOT GRIGIO

lavender. of violets and of dark black Floral aromas with flavors Bold palate a welcomed density. fruits and

D.O.C. DEL L E V EN E ZIE With a brilliant yellow color, this Italian pinot grigio awakens the palate refined bouquet. Aromas with an elegant and of apricot and hawthorn flowers are delicately of minerality. Flavors balanced with a hint are bright with an acidity that complements the softness of this wine.

TOWERING WI NES, DEEP RO OTS.

EOUT YO U R H I D

RTWINES

D.O.C. TREVISO This Italian wine sparkles with gold highlights among fine and persistent bubbles. delicate with fruit forward The nose is and floral notes. The palate is balanced with the optimal amount of juicy acidity and softness.

and tobacco of fruit leather Aromas of with flavors palate filled spices. open to a s and baking dried cranberrie

@TREEFO

RTWINES

TREEFOR

TWINES.

COM

Our family roots run deep

in northern Italy, and we honor that heritage with G U I N I G I wines.

GUINIGIWINES

.COM

GUINIGIWINES

.COM

Opportunities Remain, but a Disrupted Market is Less Hospitable to New Brands . . . . 82 Andrew Adams

departments

Rootstock: The Biggest Mistake You Can Make in Your Vineyard . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Selecting the wrong rootstock is something you have to live with. Mark Greenspan

month in review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 news . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 people . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 advertiser index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 jake lorenzo Social Distancing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

Landscape Diversity Inﬂuences Leafhopper Biocontrol. . . . . . . . . .62

winemaker of the month . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

Cover crops attract beneficials, but overwintering habitat is key to biological control

Dave Miller, owner/winemaker, White Pine Winery,

Houston Wilson, Kent Daane, Serguei Triapitsyn, Albie Miles and Miguel Altieri

Lawton, Michigan

COVER PHOTO: COVER DESIGN:

Adelsheim Vineyard Scott Summers

Wine Business Monthly (ISSN 1075-7058) is published monthly by Wine Communications Group, Inc., 35 Maple St., Sonoma, CA 95476. Subscription rates are $39 for domestic; US$49 for Canadian and US$89 for foreign subscribers. Periodicals Postage Paid at Sonoma, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Wine Business Monthly, PO Box 1649, Boulder, CO 80306-1649.

who’s talking in this issue

November 2020

Phil Markert, director of liquor, Albertsons, Vons and Pavilions,

“Opportunities Remain, but a Disrupted Market is Less Hospitable to New Brands,” page 82

“We still sell a tremendous amount of local wines, luxury wines, innovation— but it would be a true statement to say, in most cases, consumers are moving to what they know.”

Tara Gomez, winemaker Kitá Wines, “Barrel Focus: Finding the Right Combination of Spices,” page 18 “I am really careful and gentle with the fruit during its processing and fermentation stages so that the wine finishes with soft and rounded tannins…I try to find barrels that match this same style and don’t overpower the wine.”

Mark Greenspan, author, “The Biggest Mistake You Can Make in Your Vineyard,” page 56 “While we can change scion varieties, amend soils, irrigate and fertilize differently, one thing we cannot change is rootstock, at least not in any cost-effective way.”

Henrik Poulsen, winemaker, Alpha Omega Winery, “Winemaker’s Trial: Examining the Profile Change from O During 2

Fermentation in Cabernet Sauvignon,” page 54

“We did see a dramatic change in the aroma of the wine, making the wine jammier and fruitier, leading us to believe the yeast had a bigger role in absorbing the O2.”

Chuck House, designer, “Behind the Scenes with Chuck House,” page 68 “I am interested in this idea of history and immortality, the symbolism of wine packaging and the sculptural form of it.”

Peter Bell, winemaker, Fox Run Vineyards, “Barrel Focus: Finding the Right Combination of Spices,” page 18 “We’re obsessed with mouthfeel contributions from oak and less obsessed with aromatic contributions. We want to find barrels that elevate the texture of the wine.”

10 November 2020 WBM

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Partner with your local glass supplier. Call 209-341-4527 (GLAS) to find out how.

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news

For daily news you can search or browse by region, visit winebusiness.com/news

Top Stories from WINE BUSINESS.com – In Case You Missed It USDA Providing Economic Relief for Grape Growers The U.S. Department of Agriculture announced an additional $14 billion for agricultural producers who face market disruptions because of COVID-19 with winegrape growers eligible to apply for one-time payments based on 2019 sales. It’s a direct payment, not a loan, and it’s easy to apply for. Payments through the Coronavirus Food Assistance Program 2 are tiered according to how much a farmer earned in 2019. For most winegrape growers, payments will probably be in the range of 9.5 to 10 percent of 2019 sales. Growers can apply for CFAP 2 at USDA’s Farm Service Agency (FSA) county offices or online at www.farmers.gov/coronavirus. The program provides financial assistance that gives producers the ability to absorb increased marketing costs associated with the COVID-19 pandemic. Producers will be compensated for ongoing market disruptions and assisted with associated marketing costs. “You don’t have to provide any documentation to show that you were affected by COVID,” Navdeep Dhillon, USDA’s Farm Program chief told WBM. “Agencies already made that determination. All you’re doing is certifying how much money received in the 2019 calendar year.” Growers have until December 21 to apply.

New TTB Ruling on Nutrition Labeling and Advertising A ruling by the U.S. Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) expands the tolerances for voluntary calorie statements on labels and in advertisements for wine, distilled spirits and malt beverages to make them more consistent with the food labeling regulations of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The ruling allows for the use of databases and “typical values” or ranges for voluntarily reporting calories. “Wine is not a recipe product. It varies from vintage to vintage and can even vary from barrel to barrel in a given year,” said Bobby Koch, Wine Institute President and CEO. “The ruling removes a major hurdle for providing nutrition information in labeling and advertising. We appreciate TTB’s response to the concerns we raised.”

Napa Valley Vintners Pledges $1 Million to Increase Diversity in the Wine Industry The Napa Valley Vintners is investing more than $1 million in new scholarship and mentorship programs to increase diversity, inclusivity and opportunity in the wine industry—partnering with the UNCF. NVV committed $200,000 to the fund each year for five years and will begin fundraising to build the fund beyond the initial investment. NVV additionally is investing more than $100,000 in two new mentorship programs created by industry organizations Wine Unify and Bâtonnage. Behind the scenes, work continues on scholarship program details and requirements, including determining which colleges and universities are a fit with corresponding mentorship and scholarship programs. NVV has been working with UC Davis, Sonoma State, Napa College and others. Scholarships make a difference but mentorships and internships that provide hands-on learning opportunities and open up the prospect of jobs once degrees are earned are key. NVV is working with UNCF on application details and final qualifications. There will be another announcement in a few months when the scholarship program is open for people to apply.

2020 Sonoma County Wine Auction Raises $1.17 Million for Nonproﬁts The 2020 Sonoma County Wine Auction raised more than $1.17 million. More than $37 million has been raised since the auction’s inception, making a direct local impact on education, health and human services, the environment, and arts and culture. The 2020 virtual auction program included a Fund-A-Need campaign dedicated to education and addressing the digital divide among school-aged children in the community.

Sonoma County Vintners Foundation Donates $1 Million to Housing Campaign The Sonoma County Vintners Foundation is contributing $1 million to the Caritas Village Campaign by Catholic Charities. The funds provided will aid in the development of Sonoma County’s largest affordable housing and supported services project in the history of the county. Supportive housing needs remain a critical issue for Sonoma County and was exacerbated with the 2017 fires. The contribution is designated for the construction of the Caritas Center that will serve as a hub for housing resources. Caritas Center will be built in Santa Rosa California along 7th Street, and the 46,000-square-foot facility will include a family shelter, a childcare center, housing counseling, a dignity center, a recuperation shelter, and a new health clinic. WBM

12 November 2020 WBM

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BY THE INDUSTRY | FOR THE INDUSTRY Virtual Sessions: January 26–28 | Online Exhibits: January 26–29

winemaking

Advances in Artificial Intelligence to Assess Smoke Contamination in Grapevines and Taint in Wines Due to Increased Bushfire Events Sigfredo Fuentes, Eden Tongson, Vasiliki Summerson and Claudia Gonzalez Viejo, Digital Agriculture, Food and Wine Group, School of Agriculture and Food, Faculty of Veterinary and Agricultural Sciences, University of Melbourne, Melbourne, Victoria 3010

With current methods of measuring smoke taint requiring laboratory analysis of grape or wine samples, researchers from the Digital Agriculture, Food and Wine (DFAW) group at the University of Melbourne have looked to the use of artificial intelligence to assess and monitor smoke contamination which has shown to be rapid, accurate and affordable across seven different varieties. An electronic nose has also been developed to assess smoke-related gases in wines and vineyards. Introduction In 2019-20 Australia suffered one of the biggest and more devastating bushfire events to occur recently. It affected many states that are home to significant wine-growing regions, such as New South Wales, Queensland, Victoria, South Australia, Western Australia and Tasmania. These events fit with predictions from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) and the Climate Council of Victoria (2017), which stated that bushfire events would increase in number, severity and the window of opportunity could widen from September until April. Australia’s wine industry is not alone facing these increased risks. Unprecedented bushfire events have also been registered in other important wine-growing regions around the world such as Chile’s central region (2017), which experienced one the biggest bushfire events in the history of the country; the USA’s state of California, where big and consecutive bushfire events have occurred in the last four seasons; and Portugal, where 33 percent of the country’s area is covered by forests, and currently has around 18,000 bushfire events per year. In general, in Europe, there are 65,000 bushfires per year in Mediterranean climatic conditions. Important bushfire events have also been registered in South Africa (Cape Town, Stellenbosch) and Greece, among others.

C O N T E N T S

Reprinted with permission. Wine & Viticulture Journal AGW (Lee McLean): As COVID-19 changes everything, Winter 2020, V35N3 strong advocacy is more important than ever www.winetitles.com.au

INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION COLUMNS 8 9 9

WINE AUSTRLIA (Andreas Clark): The Australian wine industry adapts to multiple challenges

ASVO (Brooke Howell): Reflecting on 40 years in operation

WINEMAKING

14 November 2020 WBM

16 ERIKA SZYMANSKI: Sulfur dioxide, aroma, and the law of unintended consequences

20 Flotation – achieving success

What Happens at the Canopy and Bunch Level When Exposed to Smoke, and How Can it Be Assessed? Smoke contamination and smoke taint in wine can occur when bushfires happen close to vineyards and smoke from the fires comes across vineyards. The smoke composition that is related to contamination consists of carbon dioxide (CO2), carbon monoxide (CO), nitrogen dioxide (NO2), sulfur dioxide (SO2) and ozone (O3)1. Smoke-related contamination can occur at the canopy/leaf level and directly to bunches and berries when directly exposed to smoke. The phenological stage that is the most sensitive to smoke contamination is around one week after veraison2,3. Furthermore, the levels of concentration of smoke-related compounds are higher for berry skin compared to the mesocarp (pulp) and seeds4. Smoke contamination also occurs in leaves and other vegetative parts of the canopy, which needs to be considered in the winemaking process to reduce further contamination and smoke taint in wines. Specifically, for canopies, smoke-related gases in contact with the leaf surface produce a series of chemical reactions resulting in partial or complete stomata closure (F I G U R E 1 ). This reaction affecting stomata conductance is produced by an external chemical signal (smoke), which will affect the pattern of stomata opening and closure and could be measured using infrared thermal imaging (IRTI)5. This is based on the knowledge that opened stomata are associated with higher transpiration rates that will cool down leaves while, on the contrary, partially closed or fully closed stomata are associated with lower or no transpiration respectively, which will warm up leaves even to temperatures over ambient6.

Carbon monoxide (CO)

Sulfur dioxide (SO2)

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs)

Nitrogen oxides (NO, NO2)

Biomass burning

Carbon dioxide (CO2)

Ozone (O3)

Particulate matter

Loss of stomatal control due to structural damage

Reduction in stomatal conductance

Oxidative stress

Closing of stomata

Decrease in leaf transpiration Disrupt developmental processes

Reduction in net photsynthesis DIAGRAM: DR. EDEN TONGSON

FIGURE 1.

Smoke contamination from bushfires and the effect of smoke-related compounds on stomata closure of leaves.

The IRTI technique requires passive infrared cameras that are sensitive to the reflection of the light spectra from surfaces (leaves) within 9-14µm (9000-14,000 nanometres). Infrared cameras are nowadays very affordable with lower resolution, such as FLIR One (FLIR Systems, Wilsonville, OR, USA), and can be attached to smartphones and tablets or FLIR AX8 (90 x 60 pixels resolution). For unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) applications, higher resolution cameras would be required to assess at the plant-by-plant level, such as the FLIR Duo Pro, which offers 4K visible video and IRTI capabilities. The IRTI technology has been used to detect the pattern of change of stomata aperture within leaves and canopies that could serve as a proxy for the detection of smoke contamination at the canopy level. In the case of berries, smoke-related volatile phenols react with sugars in berries producing glycoconjugates, which changes the chemical fingerprint of berries. Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR) in the range of light reflectance from surfaces (berries) between 1600-2500 nanometres have been used to assess the chemical fingerprint of different products such as fruits, olive oil, wines, beers and leaves, among others. Furthermore, affordable NIR instruments that can be attached to smartphones and tablets in the range of sensitivity between 320-780nm (Lighting Passport, Asensetek Incorporation New Taipei, Taiwan) can be used to assess the changes in the colour of leaves and berries associated with necrosis as a product of smoke exposure. Integrated gas sensor technology can also be used to assess and monitor smoke-related contamination and wine taint. The DAFW group from the University of Melbourne has recently developed an electronic nose (e-nose) by integrating nine gas sensors that are sensitive to smoke-related gases (T A B L E 1 )7.

Specifications of the gas sensors integrated in the electronic nose (e-nose). Extracted from Gonzalez-Viejo et al. 20207.

TA B L E 1 .

Sensor

Measurement

Sensitivity

MQ3

Ethanol

0.05 mg L-1 – 10 mg L-1

MQ4

Methane

200 – 10,000ppm

MQ7

Carbon monoxide

20ppm – 2,000ppm

MQ8

Hydrogen

100 – 10,000ppm

Ammonia

10 – 300 ppm

Alcohol

10 – 300 ppm

Benzene

10 – 1,000 ppm

MQ136

Hydrogen sulfide

1 – 100 ppm

MQ137

Ammonia

5 – 200 ppm

Benzene

10 – 1,000 ppm

Alcohol

10 – 1,000 ppm

Ammonia

10 – 3,000 ppm

Carbon dioxide

350 – 10,000 ppm

Humidity

0 – 99%

Temperature

-40 – 80 °C

MQ135

MQ138

MG811

AM2320

Manufacturer

Zhengzhou Winsen Electronics Technology Co., Ltd., China

Adafruit Industries, New York, NY, USA

WBM November 2020 15

Advances in Artificial Intelligence to Assess Smoke Contamination in Grapevines and Taint in Wines

At a Glance • Smoke taint is difficult to assess in vineyards and wineries • Current methods require laboratory analysis of berry or wine samples • Artificial intelligence and unmanned aerial vehicles have been used to assess and monitor contamination in berries across seven different varieties. • The technology could also be used to map regions according to smoke contamination levels. • An electronic nose (e-nose) has been developed to assess smoke-related gases in wines to predict smoke taint, and can be applied to vineyards to monitor ambient gases and levels of smoke contamination in bushfire events

Implementation of AI to Detect Smoke Contamination Artificial intelligence (AI) consists of the development of computer-based systems that perform tasks similar to human intelligence. These systems can range from, but are not limited to: i) computer vision analysis of images by computers), ii) robotics, iii) implementation of new and emerging sensor technologies, such as remote sensing and integrated sensors, (UAVs) sensor networks and data transmission systems, iv) biometrics and v) machine learning modelling8-12. An AI system applied to the detection and assessment of smoke contamination in grapevines, berries, and smoke taint in wines can use one or more of the aforementioned technologies. Several AI research initiatives have been performed by the DAFW group for application on i) beer9,11,13-17 and sparkling wine18 using robotics and computer vision, ii) the development of the VitiCanopy app for canopy architecture assessment19, iii) grapevine classification of cultivars from image analysis of leaves20, iv) cocoa trees to estimate the aroma profile of fermented cocoa beans based on aerial images and canopy architecture21, v) to estimate the aroma profile of wines in vertical vintages using weather and management information22, vii) vineyard water status estimation using UAV multispectral information23, viii) the development of a bio-sensory app for the sensory analysis of food, beverages, labels and packaging10. In terms of smoke contamination and smoke taint, recent advances made by the DAFW group were based on the implementation of short and proximal range remote sensing using IRTI, NIR and integrated sensor technologies (e-nose). For example, a model with 96 percent accuracy based on machine learning (ML) was constructed using IRTI from canopies and pattern recognition to identify grapevine canopies from four cultivars (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) that had been affected by smoke contamination based on the stomatal conductance pattern change due to external chemical signalling (smoke). The implementation of this method required taking an IRTI from canopies, which can be done using low-cost IRTI cameras (FLIR One), to obtain smoke contamination levels. Furthermore, this same research developed ML models based on NIR in berries with a correlation of R=0.97 to predict smoke-related compounds in berries and final wines for seven cultivars (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). The compounds estimated were guaiacol glycoconjugates for berries and guaiacol glycoconjugates and 4-methylguaiacol for wines5.

16 November 2020 WBM

The implementation of low-cost NIR technology available for smartphones and tablets (such as Lighting Passport) has provided preliminary ML models with high accuracy in the estimation of leaf smoke contamination and classification (accuracy = 97 percent; paper under preparation). Finally, low-cost sensor technology has been integrated, as in the case of the e-nose, and applied to Cabernet Sauvignon wines with different levels of smoke contamination. These experiments delivered ML classification models with high accuracy (97 percent) while ML fitting models obtained concentrations of 20 different smoke-related compounds in berries and 17 glycoconjugates and seven volatile phenols in wines (R=0.98) (papers under preparation).

Future Research Directions Future research directions for the e-nose will be based on further developments for power supply (battery and solar recharge), data logging, and wireless data transmission capabilities using the Internet of Things (IoT) to be integrated into other developed systems within the New and Emerging Technologies Integration System (NETIS) (F I G U R E 2 ). These advances will allow for the establishment of a sensor network within vineyards to monitor real-time gas composition from the ambient surroundings and to develop ML modelling techniques to assess levels of smoke contamination and potential smoke taint in final wines before harvest in the event of bushfires.

New and Emerging Technologies Integration System (NETIS)

Plant water status Vigour Fertiliser demand Leaf Area Index Fruit recognition

UNMANNED AERIAL SYSTEMS Spatial mapping of visible, multispectral and infrared thermal imagery

Dogs trained to detect invasive weeds, pests and diseases with computer app + AI

PROXY REMOTE SENSING DECISION-MAKING

Using phone attachments such as e-nose and devices / apps to capture visible infrared images and NIR data

Representation of the New and Emerging Technologies Integration System (NETIS) incorporating long range remote sensing through Unmanned Aerial Systems (UAS) and short range using electronic noses (e-nose), smartphone technologies, attachments and biological sensors (trained dogs). FIGURE 2.

Due to Increased Bushfire Events

Furthermore, a single e-nose can be carried as a payload for UAVs to scout vineyards using established waypoints to map the gas composition throughout a vineyard. By applying the developed ML models, maps of contamination can be obtained in bushfire events, which can be useful for management strategies to ameliorate smoke contamination or to perform differential harvests. Models based on ML that have been already developed will be implemented in trials to reduce smoke contamination and the risk of smoke taint in wines, such as from the vineyard: i) defoliation techniques; ii) application of activated carbon in the fruit zone before or during bushfires; iii) kaoline canopy applications; and in the winemaking process for trials such as i) preliminary robotic system for automated separation of berries according to smoke-related phenols; ii) use of activated carbon, membranes, different yeasts, fining agents and reverse osmosis in wines to assess the reduction of smoke-related compounds and changes in aroma profiles.

Conclusions Artificial Intelligence (AI) applications to assess smoke contamination in grapevines, berries, and smoke taint in wines have shown promising results in recent research. The advantages of this system are based on the use of low-cost instrumentation and UAV technology that can result in accurate and readily available critical information that can be applied for management purposes to minimise contamination levels in berries and wines. The implementation of AI systems will reduce the requirement of specialised laboratories that can have high demand during extensive bushfire events. WBM References 1 Ristic, R.; Fudge, A.L.; Pinchbeck, K.A.; De Bei, R.; Fuentes, S.; Hayasaka, Y.; Tyerman, S.D. and Wilkinson, K.L. (2016) Impact of grapevine exposure to smoke on vine physiology and the composition and sensory properties of wine. Theoretical and Experimental Plant Physiology 28:67-83. 2 Sheppard, S.I.; Dhesi, M.K. and Eggers, N.J. (2009) Effect of pre-and postveraison smoke exposure on guaiacol and 4-methylguaiacol concentration in mature grapes. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture 60:98-103. 3 Kennison, K.; Wilkinson, K.L.; Pollnitz, A.; Williams, H. and Gibberd, M.R. (2011) Effect of smoke application to field grown merlot grapevines at key phenological growth stages on wine sensory and chemical properties. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 17:S5-S12. 4 Dungey, K.A.; Hayasaka, Y. and Wilkinson, K.L. (2011) Quantitative analysis of glycoconjugate precursors of guaiacol in smoke-affected grapes using liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry based stable isotope dilution analysis. Food Chemistry 126:801-806. 5 Fuentes, S.; Tongson, E.J.; De Bei, R.; Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Ristic, R.; Tyerman, S. and Wilkinson, K. (2019) Non-invasive tools to detect smoke contamination in grapevine canopies, berries and wine: A remote sensing and machine learning modeling approach. Sensors (Basel) 19:3335. 6 Fuentes, S.; De Bei, R.; Pech, J. and Tyerman, S. (2012) Computational water stress indices obtained from thermal image analysis of grapevine canopies. Irrigation Science 30:523-536. 7

Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Fuentes, S.; Godbole, A.; Widdicombe, B. and Unnithan, R.R. (2020) Development of a low-cost e-nose to assess aroma profiles: An artificial intelligence application to assess beer quality. Sensors and Actuators B: Chemical 308:127688.

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9 Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Fuentes, S.; Howell, K.; Torrico, D.D. and Dunshea, F.R. (2019) Integration of non-invasive biometrics with sensory analysis techniques to assess acceptability of beer by consumers. Physiology & Behavior 200:139-147. 46 10 Fuentes, S.; Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Torrico, D. and Dunshea, F. (2018) Development of a biosensory computer application to assess physiological and emotional responses from sensory panelists. Sensors 18(9):2958. 11 Viejo, C.G.; Fuentes, S.; Li, G.; Collmann, R.; Condé, B. amd Torrico, D. (2016) Development of a robotic pourer constructed with ubiquitous materials, open 52 hardware and sensors to assess beer foam quality using computer vision and pattern recognition algorithms: Robobeer. Food Research International 89:504-513. 12 Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Torrico, D.D.; Dunshea, F.R. and Fuentes, S. (2109) Emerging technologies based on artificial intelligence to assess the quality 58 and consumer preference of beverages. Beverages 5(4):62. 13 Viejo, C.G.; Torrico, D.D.; Dunshea, F.R. and Fuentes, S. (2019) Development of artificial neural network models to assess beer acceptability based on sensory properties using a robotic pourer: A comparative model approach to achieve an artificial intelligence system. Beverages 5(2):33. 14 Viejo, C.G.; Fuentes, S.; Howell, K.; Torrico, D. and Dunshea, F.R. (2018) 71 Robotics and computer vision techniques combined with non-invasive consumer biometrics to assess quality traits from beer foamability using machine learning: A potential for artificial intelligence applications. Food Control 92: 72-79. 15 Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Fuentes, S.; Torrico, D.D.; Howell, K. and Dunshea, F.R. (2018) Assessment of beer quality based on a robotic pourer, computer vision, and machine learning algorithms using commercial beers. J. Food Sci. 83(5):1381-1388. 16 Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Fuentes, S.; Torrico, D.; Howell, K. and Dunshea, F.R. (2018) Assessment of beer quality based on foamability and chemical composition using computer vision algorithms, near infrared spectroscopy and machine learning algorithms. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture 98:618-627. 17 Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Fuentes, S.; Torrico, D.; Howell, K. and Dunshea, F.R. (2017) Assessment of beer quality based on foamability and chemical composition using computer vision algorithms, near infrared spectroscopy and machine learning algorithms. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture 2017, 98(2):618-627. 18 Condé, B.C.; Fuentes, S.; Caron, M.; Xiao, D.; Collmann, R. and Howell, K.S. (2017) Development of a robotic and computer vision method to assess foam quality in sparkling wines. Food Control 71:383-392. 19 De Bei, R.; Fuentes, S.; Gilliham, M.; Tyerman, S.; Edwards, E.; Bianchini, N.; Smith, J. and Collins, C. (2016) Viticanopy: A free computer app to estimate canopy vigor and porosity for grapevine. Sensors 16(5):585. 20 Fuentes, S.; Hernández-Montes, E.; Escalona, J.; Bota, J.; Viejo, C.G.; Poblete-Echeverría, C.; Tongson, E. and Medrano, H. (2018) Automated grapevine cultivar classification based on machine learning using leaf morphocolorimetry, fractal dimension and near-infrared spectroscopy parameters. Computers and Electronics in Agriculture 151:311-318. 21 Fuentes, S.; Chacon, G.; Torrico, D.D.; Zarate, A. and Gonzalez Viejo, C. (2019) Spatial variability of aroma profiles of cocoa trees obtained through computer vision and machine learning modelling: A cover photography and high spatial remote sensing application. Sensors 19(4):3054. 22 Fuentes, S.; Gonzalez Viejo, C.; Wang, X. and Torrico, D.D. (2019) Aroma and quality assessment for vertical vintages using machine learning modelling based on weather and management information. In: Proceedings of the 21st GiESCO International Meeting, Thessaloniki, Greece, pp23-28. 23 Romero, M.; Luo, Y.; Su, B. and Fuentes, S. (2018) Vineyard water status estimation using multispectral imagery from an uav platform and machine learning algorithms for irrigation scheduling management. Computers and Electronics in Agriculture 147:109-117.

8 Fuentes, S.; Hernández-Montes, E.; Escalona, J.; Gonzalez Viejo, C.; PobleteEcheverría, C.; Tongson, E. and Medrano, H. (2018) Automated grapevine cultivar classification and water stress assessment based on machine learning using leaf morpho-colorimetry, fractal dimension and near-infrared spectroscopy. Computers and Electronics in Agriculture 151:311.

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winemaking

Barrel Focus:

Finding the Right Combination of Spices Nine winemakers on their oak philosophies W. Blake Gray

W. Blake Gray has won multiple award for wine and spirits writing, including the Roederer Award in 2013 for Best Online Wine Writer/Blog. He lives in San Francisco.

ADELSHEIM VINEYARD

spice rack, and just as with food, different spices work best with different wines. This became clear after interviewing winemakers around the country for our winemaker roundtable. There is no actual answer to the question “What’s the best barrel?” It depends on the grape variety, the style of the wine, and the objective of the winemaker. But even when winemakers identify a barrel they really like, they use other barrels too—just as your love for salt on your potatoes doesn’t preclude you from also adding pepper. We asked winemakers in five states which barrels they buy and why. Here’s what they told us.

BARRELS ARE A WINEMAKER’S

Peter Bell Winemaker, Fox Run Vineyards, Finger Lakes

The initial predicament is to choose barrels that will work reasonably well with Chardonnay and then very well with reds. Almost all of our new barrels are broken in by fermenting Chardonnay in them. Around here a new barrel is a liability. We don’t have anywhere near the density and structure for a new barrel to be the driver of the wine. You would think that the deeper the toast, the bigger the oak impact. That’s not really the case. Cooperage practices matter even more than the forest. 18 November 2020 WBM

Toasting develops more aromatic compounds yet destroys tannins, which are responsible for mouthfeel. We’re obsessed with mouthfeel contributions from oak and less obsessed with aromatic contributions. We want to find barrels that elevate the texture of the wine. We have been buying barrels from three or four different coopers. At the appropriate time we’ll blind-taste them, eight or nine months after the wine has gone into the barrel. Then we try to correlate our approval of the barrel with the actual price of the barrel. Sometimes it’s not very correlated. Older barrels in blind tastings often get very high reviews in the winery. WBM: What

about French vs. Hungarian vs. American oak?

We tend to buy about half and half French and American barrels these days. It’s a hard thing to justify financially these days because it’s about $1,000 (French) versus about $450. Shipping costs matter, too; so if you add a couple hundred bucks to that $1,000 barrel, it’s hard to justify putting an $18 to $20 wine in that barrel. I’m a big fan of Ringo Starr. He said his talent is getting inside the music and making it better without being noticed. That’s a perfect analogy for the role of oak in wine. When I think of oak, I think of Ringo Starr. I want Ringo versus any other drummer. We don’t want any Keith Moon.

To accurately replicate the nostalgic flavors of a wine barrel, one must be fully aware of the nature and properties of a barrel’s head. StaVin’s R&D team of scientists has developed the Barrel Head Component; comprised of carefully heated premium oak, always seasoned in open air for three years. When used in conjunction with our fire-toasted oak, Barrel Head enhances wines with a more complex full-bodied mouthfeel and nuanced lingering finish found in the finest of barrels. At a cost savings of up to 95%. ®

Finding the Right Combination of Spices

We are looking specifically for a very fine tannin profile. We’re starting with fairly low alcohol, fairly high acid wines, with maybe slightly underripe tannins from the grapes. The best barrels fit seamlessly into the wine. They make the under-structured wine taste a whole lot better. I’ve always loved, going back 25 years, Nadalié Virginia oak barrels. There’s never a year when we don’t buy some of them. They always show well in blind tastings. We’ve tried some of their fancier barrels and don’t like them better. It’s a real workhorse barrel. In terms of French coopers, we’re buying some barrels from Tonnellerie Berger & Fils, also Tonnellerie Bossuet. Not only is their local rep a well-respected guy but he has helped us find samples to evaluate.

Jennifer McCloud Owner, Chrysalis Vineyards, Virginia

We have put a lot of attention to make the best Norton that we can. I’ve been a collector of classified growth Bordeaux. I have a lot of experience with Meritage blends. Some people think I’m a country bumpkin because I’m so into Norton; I think it’s a great idea to pay attention to Virginia’s native grape. The issue with Norton has always been, in my estimation, the mouthfeel of the wine and its acidity, not so much its flavor profile. Norton’s grapey. It’s not foxy. It doesn’t have the chemical that people call foxy. Norton can absorb oak like you wouldn’t believe. We want to start with a not already tart or hard wine. We want a balanced wine so the oak tannins don’t make the mouthfeel harder. If you’ve tasted Virginia wines, like Cabernet Franc, sometimes California winemakers come to the East Coast, and they bring with them a barrel regimen, and it overpowers the vinifera here. But you can bring any barrel regimen you want from anywhere, and you can use it on Norton. It can integrate oak unbelievably, and it does not show an overt oak character. It’s a great candidate for new oak and one-year-old oak. We make a 100 percent Norton wine, the Barrel Reserve. I have been aging it in three-year-aged Virginia oak. I thought that was appropriate: aging Virginia’s native grape in Virginia oak. It’s tighter grain than, let’s say, Missouri. As settlers in North America moved from east to west, we cut down a lot of trees. The first trees we cut down were the most easterly. Some of the Blue Ridge areas have oaks that have been able to regrow in a more natural forest environment. I’ve found that the Appalachian Virginia oak is a really great symbiotic companion for Virginia wine. For Norton, it gives something that is lacking in Nortons that are not blended, and that is tannins. The fruit tannins are nowhere near as pronounced in Norton as they would be in Cabernet Sauvignon. For our vinifera wines, mostly we’re using French oak. We do use some Hungarian oak. We’re buying a number of well-known barrels. We’re buying Magreñán from Spain. We’ve had Virginia oak that’s been coopered and seasoned in Spain. French oak from Nadalié. For high-end Nortons, we use French oak with a touch of Hungarian oak. We use different coopers for French oak; we’ve used Tonellerie Bossuet and Tonellerie d’Aquitaine. It’s a combination of what everyone else is doing. If we’re going to do American oak, it’s going to be from Virginia.

20 November 2020 WBM

Maayan Koschitzky Director of Winemaking/Partner, Atelier Melka, Napa Valley and elsewhere

My main focus is French oak. The only exception is a tiny bit of Austrian, which I am trialing because of the nature of the oak being super tight grain, which works well with white fresher-style wines (plus I want to be cool). With the knowledge Atelier Melka gained over 30+ years, we figured which barrels we like for each of the wine styles/vineyards we are working with. We try to do one to two new barrel trials every year, and each trial takes two full seasons to evaluate and decide if we want to continue and to introduce the barrel to our programs. We believe that barrels are like spices: it’s great to have a few but not too many. Our main focus, when we start with oak selection, is first and foremost consistency from the cooperage. We want to make sure the wood sources are consistent and the barrels are great every year. Most of our cooperages own their own mills to control the oak sources or are producing enough volume of barrels to have the relationships and ability to source good quality oak. We map the barrels based on what they give to the wines (at least in our mind). Some coopers make more fruit-forward barrels, some are more for structure, some push acidity forward, and some are more for texture.

ADELSHEIM VINEYARD

Two barrels from the same forest but different cooperages won’t impact the wine the same way, so we play with other elements in the barrel making: how many months the oak was dry-seasoned, how it was bent (fire vs. steam vs. water, etc.). We try to travel every year to meet the people and visit the mills. We taste wine with the coopers almost every year and discuss the barrels to keep finetuning and learning. We source from six to seven forests. Most of our barrels are from Allier (gives light structure and spice with good mouthfeel), Vosges (brings volume and sweetness to wine but less structure), Bertranges (minerality, focus, mouthfeel without heaviness), Tronçais (all about structure, volume and tannins) and Nevers (structure and spice).

Finding the Right Combination of Spices

Rutger de Vink and Joshua Grainer Vigneron and Winemaker, RdV, Virginia de Vink: When we first started out with our barrel program, we did

monkey-see/monkey-do. We’d see the first-growth Bordeaux use Tonnellerie Taransaud and Tronçais, and we just copied it. Then three years ago, we decided to really start focusing on our barrel program. One of the attributes of our wine is that when you compare it to Bordeaux wine, we have a more bright essence of fruit. We visited the barrel makers in France to talk to them and to the Bordeaux wineries. When you look at what the Bordeaux wineries are doing, they’re trying to add a perception of sweetness to the wine. We’re more likely to try to diminish it. Grainer: We started selecting grain guides and toasting mechanisms. We’re

still largely 100 percent French oak, but we are messing with some of the different sourcing from Hungarian forests. de Vink: We try out American oak, we try out Hungarian oak, but the

barrels we like the most are mimicking French oak, so we think: why are we trying to reinvent the wheel? This is our tenth-year release. In 2008, we used one single oak barrel. It really marked the wine. But when we drink it today, it really integrated into it. A lot of wines from Bordeaux have that mark of oak, but it integrates over time. We’re making wines to age. David Ramey told me a wine is never over-oaked: it’s under-wined. You didn’t bring a berry with enough structure to handle the oak.

Grainer: In 2018, it was a very challenging year. Totally rain, rain, rain. We thought, it’s such a washed-out year, let’s not use any new oak. But some of the lots, when we put them in new oak, we liked them more than the more neutral barrels. de Vink: When you have a really ripe vintage, it’s sweet on sweet, and we get

away from that. We love California producers as well. But we appreciate the Bordeaux sternness in a wine. Grainer: We work with six or seven coopers now. We got down to two or

three, but we were going way too monotone. Even the barrels you like the least in the trials, you’re missing something if you don’t include it in the blend. If we get rid of those, it doesn’t make the wine better. From Tronçais, there’s more barrels sold than there are trees cut down every year. They’re noted for very high-vanillin, high-tone barrels. We found that a lot of that sweetness was coming from those selections. We’ve started looking for more center-of-France, Allier. We’re getting tighter grain structure on the barrels. We’re increasing the toast level, which you would think would increase sweetness. Instead it brings in an espresso bitterness to the wine that counterbalances the sweetness. When we started, we wanted to let the vineyard speak for itself, so we were doing shorter, lighter toasts. Now we’re doing longer toasts but at a cooler temperature. The espresso note lengthens the finish. I think it accentuates the length of the finish. We’re really working with Tonnellerie Berger. They’re really working well with us to try and achieve what we want.

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Gina Hennen Winemaker, Adelsheim Vineyard, Willamette Valley

We currently use only French oak barrels and have for many years now. We make many different small lot Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and those all élevage in French oak: 228L for the Pinot Noirs and a combination of 228L barrels and 500L puncheons for the Chardonnays. Around 2007-2008 we brought in some Hungarian oak for a few vintages to trial them. They were solid barrels and certainly more cost-effective than French oak, but we felt they lacked the nuance and complexity of good French oak barrels. I could see them working well in a larger blend, particularly in conjunction with French oak. I have very limited experience with American oak, having only tasted it on other winemakers’ wines. I’ve found it to be rather overt. I doubt it would merge seamlessly into our wines; and since that’s our guiding philosophy on barrel usage, I haven’t pursued it. Our winemaking style is all about balance and finesse. The French oak barrels I like best bring elements of tension and structure and do so with subtlety. They need to work with the wine and highlight what we love about that particular vineyard block. If the barrels take over and stomp on what is unique about a given lot, then I feel like we’ve lost. We currently buy barrels from nine different coopers, all of which bring their own signature to the mix. There are a lot of cooperages out there—it’s all about finding the barrels that work with your wine style and philosophy. For Adelsheim, that means using barrels that will become part of the wine

rather than sit on top of it. To that end we limit the amount of new oak barrels in our wines, and we work with coopers that tend to be a bit more restrained in their house style. The vast majority of our barrels are medium toast, with a few medium long and light/long toasts added in for complexity. We buy both forest-designated barrels (predominantly from Bertranges, Vosges and Nevers), as well as grain-select barrels (mostly tight grain, some medium grain). And yes, our yearly barrel order is very complicated.

Kerry Shiels Winemaker, Côte Bonneville and DuBrul Vineyard, Yakima Valley

We use only French oak at Côte Bonneville. Our goal is to create classically-styled wines that showcase the fruit. We have found that the flavor profiles of the centerof-France barrels match our site well. For our size, we use a wide variety of coopers because each brings different notes and attributes, adding to the complexity of the final wine. We look for tannin development, mid-palate roundness and oak integration. Tight-grain staves are critical for our dry climate and extended aging in

CÔTE BONNEVILLE

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Finding the Right Combination of Spices

GORDEON BEALL

the barrels. Consistency is important, so we work with established coopers and forests with whom we have long-term relationships. Our philosophy emphasizes continuity of style, and our level of experimentation is constrained by our limited production. We know we can count on our barrels to deliver every year, which helps our customers know they can trust the wines. We always use center-of-France forests. For Chardonnay, we use exclusively Boutes Cooperage barrels. They’re a really great match for our fruit and style. There are other coopers that go into specific blends for our Bordeaux varietals as well. Alain Fouquet works well with our hillside fruit, for example, whereas Seguin Moreau integrates better with our Carriage House block.

24 November 2020 WBM

Tara Gomez Winemaker, Kitá Wines, Santa Ynez Valley

I use different coopers, depending on the variety or lot that I am making, to allow more complexity in the final blend. I gravitate more towards French oak barrels. I find the spices that French oak provides to the wine blend better with my style of winemaking than American oak, where the spices are normally sweeter and the flavors more pronounced. Also, overall, French oak tends to be more elegant where American tends to be more pronounced. Here at Kitá, I am really careful and gentle with the fruit during its processing and fermentation stages so that the wine finishes with soft and rounded tannins. With this in mind, I try to find barrels that match this same style and don’t overpower the wine but create a perfect marriage between the oak and the wine. I normally have a combination of medium toast to M+ toast, depending on the cooper. I use barrels with fine grain (tighter porosity) to minimize oxidation. These are barrels that normally need a little longer time to integrate with the wine, and I, therefore, age for 18 to 30 months. This allows the wine time to balance with the oak profile. Also, for Rhône varieties, I generally use 20 to 30 percent new French oak, and for Bordeaux varieties, I use 40 to 45 percent new French oak.

The French oak barrels I like best bring elements of tension and structure and do so with subtlety.

UNIQUE WINE RECIPES DESERVE QUALITY OAK TANNINS Liquid Oak Tannins & Powdered Tannins

Gina Hennen, winemaker, Adelsheim Vineyard

As for coopers, I like Taransaud and Dargaud & Jaegle, with my favorite being Marcel Cadet. I also like Radoux-Integration for the more gentle varieties, such as Grenache and Pinot Noir. The prices of these barrels average between $1,000 to $1,400 per barrel, which tend to be increasing due to higher import taxes added to the shipping cost of the barrel. It’s definitely a challenge nowadays for small wineries to purchase these premium barrels. I’ve also tried a few Hungarian oak barrels (Kadar); and even though the oak is the same species as the French oak, I didn’t find any uplift in the wine. The prices are great, though, with Hungarian oak, so maybe I will give it another try.

Chris Peterson Winemaker, Avennia and Passing Time, Washington

I only use French oak barrels. The simplest thing is just the flavors. You tend to get more subtle flavors: fine espresso powder, mocha, vanilla, that kind of thing. I think American oak has improved. But you get that coconut flavor, and Bourbon. Those are just not flavors I associate with wines I like. Some people use American oak as a stylistic choice. But a lot of times I think it’s a budget choice. You can get sweet oak flavors on a budget. But it’s also about texture. I find American oak makes wine hard: bitter flavors, astringent, different textures. It feels cheaper to me. I like the more richness, the more length of the finish from French oak. For different things I like different forests. You have different coopers. We’re not trying to make the barrel the centerpiece. A really unique barrel, you might think, that’s really unique and cool. But maybe it’s not right for the wine. We buy from Alliez and Tronçais. I also like Bertranges. For toast levels, I like medium, medium-long and medium-plus. I use them for different reasons. Some of the medium-toast barrels can be kind of hard. Medium-plus gives you some of those darker flavors, like espresso and mocha. The wines in Passing Time, I might go more medium-plus for that sweet, dark, richer flavor. At Avennia, I might go half and half, more medium toast. Variety definitely makes a difference but also the style. Passing Time is all Cabernet-driven. They’re in that bigger style. It’s more assertive oak, but it’s also really expensive oak, nice oak. Lots of Taransaud, for instance. I got a 600-liter Slovenian oak barrel this year. I’m going to put Sauvignon Blanc in that and see if I like it. It’s really low toast. We started making a Roussanne-Marsanne blend called La Perle. It has about 25 percent new oak. But I don’t think you really taste it. Those are water-bent barrels, the specific barrels that really work well. Those are Seguin Moreau. WBM

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WBM November 2020 25

winemaking

Insight & Opinion:

Eight Recent Game-Changing Technologies for Small Wineries Clark Smith

Clark Robert Smith has built many successful brands, consults on five continents, judges wines at several competitions and teaches winemaking in six universities. In the 1990s, Smith patented reverse osmosis methods for alcohol removal and volatile acidity correction, founded wine technology provider Vinovation and pioneered the implementation in American winemaking of micro-oxygenation, ultrafiltration, tartrate stabilization through electrodialysis, alternatives to sterile filtration, and a host of other wine quality enhancement techniques, while serving for a decade with the international body O.I.V’s. Groupe d’Experts sur la Technologie du Vin. He sold Vinovation in 2008 to concentrate on winemaking, writing, music and exploring the new American wine scene.

are pretty good—they certainly should be after 58 vintages. As I approached the 2019 harvest, I wasn’t expecting to discover anything that would completely up my game. And yet, not one, but eight innovations arrived that year, which completely altered the prospects for small wineries like mine. There are more than 10,500 bonded wineries in the United States. If we exclude the 72 giants that dominate national distribution, the average winery is about 2,000 cases, and half of them are outside California. Eighty-one percent are under 5,000 cases. While these mom-and-pops may be living the dream, they’re playing a very tough game. The skills and knowledge required to finance, construct, operate and market a small winery on a shoestring are staggering. It’s wonderful that these new technologies are throwing them a rope, and the suppliers bringing them to market deserve high praise. It’s worth noting that there has been a shift from academia to industry as the engine of innovation, particularly for us small fry. Before I get into specific products, let’s just list what these innovations do. I THINK MY WINES

1. Accelerate grape skin extraction to improve texture and allow rapid

fermenter turnover. 2. Cold-stabilize instantly without refrigeration. 3. Suppress spoilage organisms in musts and bulk wines. 4. A red wine-friendly bentonite for clarification on a tight budget. 5. Crossflow-friendly bentonite to heat-stabilize instantly. 6. A killer yeast toxic to all microbes, except Saccharomyces cerevisiae, to

protect cold soaks and must transport. 7. Cheap, intuitive winery software that tracks all vineyard and winery

activities and cost of goods. 8. A suite of 36 apps for every aspect of running a small business for $35

per month per user. Sound good?

26 November 2020 WBM

INNOVATION #1:

Maceration Accelerator Della Toffola [Full disclosure: Della Toffola has hired me as a consultant in the implementation of this technology. I have found them to be a wonderful company to work with and, yes, they are paying me. But even if they weren’t, I would still have put this amazing yet simple innovation Number 1 among my game-changers.] This is the brainchild of Dr. Richard Smart, who conceived the simple idea that skins would extract quicker if we chopped them up or, as Dr. Smart puts it, accentuated cut edges. When we crush a berry, we get no extraction through the outer wax cuticle and only slow extraction through the inner pectin layer. Extraction is rapid through the cut edge, but there isn’t enough of it. If we could find a way to chop the skins in 10 pieces without cutting the seeds, we could extract color and flavor more quickly. He convinced Dr. Angela Sparrow of the University of Tasmania to research the idea, at first with a simple stick blender, a device similar to a kitchen blender. Once the mechanical details were worked out, Dr. Sparrow vinified a series of Pinot Noirs and conducted sensory trials, which confirmed the promise of the idea. The Italian-based Della Toffola Group, one of the largest providers of winery equipment throughout the globe, is always on the lookout for technical innovations. When Smart and Sparrow approached them with their research in 2018, DTG’s engineers took up the challenge, producing a practical in-line low-cost unit in three sizes: 10 tons per hour, 22 tons per hour and 45 tons per hour, priced at about what you’d pay for a must pump with those throughputs.

Insight & Opinion: Game-Changing Technologies for Small Wineries Besides the sensory advantages, the Della Toffola Maceration Accelerator (DTMA) offers the option to press in as early as three days. These wines have brighter red fruit and smoother tannins and thus can be released earlier. In May 2019, I attended a presentation by Dr. Smart at Della Toffola USA’s Santa Rosa, Calif. headquarters and was instantly intrigued. I procured a Robot-Coupe stick blender and performed trials at Granite Springs Winery on Tempranillo, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The results were amazing: color was substantially enhanced, the wines had a dense core of fruit, and the grainy tannins of the controls were transformed into a dense, round, soft mouthfeel. I was blown away. I also learned that the five minutes per bin required to process a half-ton bin is a very long five minutes for an old guy like me. Also, it is impossible to get the consistency of chopping that the in-line DTMA offers. The in-line design makes cleanup a non-event. Anybody who wants to borrow my stick blender is welcome to it because I’m graduating to a DTMA! This harvest, Della Toffola fielded a fleet of machines for trials throughout California and on the East Coast.

INNOVATION #2:

Zenith Uno and Zenith Color Enartis One of the most daunting challenges for small wineries is tartrate stabilization. Many wineries have no glycol refrigeration and commonly use less expensive icemakers or room air conditioning to control fermentations and do not have the capability to chill their white wines sufficiently to prevent the formation of crystals in the bottle.

INNOVATION #3:

Stab Micro M & Stab Micro Enartis Pay careful attention to the difference between Stab Micro M (stands for “Must”) and Stab Micro, which is for wine. Chitin is a primary component of cell walls in fungi, the exoskeletons of arthropods, such as crustaceans and insects. A derivative of chitin called chitosan has shown potential for organic farming, paint, wastewater treatment and a dizzying array of medical applications. The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) has approved uses for reducing microbial loads, ochratoxin A, metals and for protein fining. STABILIZING AGENTS

ENARTISSTAB MICRO M

Chitosan preparation specifically for microbiological stabilization of must and w

STABILIZING AGENTS

COMPOSITION Chitosan derived from Aspergillus niger, inactivated yeast, E270 (+) - lactic ac

ENARTISSTAB MICRO M

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS Chitosan preparation specifically for microbiological stabilization of must and w EnartisStab Micro M is a chitosan-based preparation with high antimicrobial a So what’s new? The production process and activation with organic acids increases the surfa COMPOSITION Crustacean-based allergy concerns and are notE270 always increases itschitosans abilityfrom to raise interact with microbial cells, altering the (+) permeability Chitosan derived Aspergillus niger, inactivated yeast, - lactic ac causing death. effective against microbes. In the Stab Micro products, Enartis has perfected EnartisStab Micro M was created specifically for the treatment of must and tu GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS a methodology tothesource a highly effective, non-allergenic, vegan chitosan liquids, solids the positive charges of chitosan, conseque EnartisStab Microreact M is awith chitosan-based preparation with highwhich antimicrobial a attract the cells of the microorganisms. Winery trials show that for this applic from Aspergillus niger with a low molecular weight and high degree of de-acThe production process and activation with organic acids increases the surfa chitosan with chitin-glucan haswith a greater microbial effect than alon ylation that increase properties. They further developed an increases itsanti-microbial ability to interact microbial cells, altering the chitosan permeability in cell walls of inactivated yeast act as clarifiers with the suspended solids and causing death. acid pre-activation process that increases surface area and reactivity, as well effect of chitosan. EnartisStab Micro M was created specifically for the treatment of must and tu

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET TECHNICAL

as solubility and charge attraction. liquids, theSHEET solids react with the positive charges of chitosan, which conseque DATA STABILIZING AGENTS EnartisStab Micro M the reduces the development facilitates thefor elimination o attract of microorganisms. Wineryand trials show that this applic Stab Micro M isthe usedcells to prevent VA and other microbial activity during cold yeast that can alter the organoleptic characteristics of the wine during its a chitosan with chitin-glucan a greater microbial stuck effectfermentathan chitosan alon soak or grape transport and has beenhas effective in preventing Brettanomyces, Oenococcus, Lactobacillus, Acetobacter, Zygosaccharomyc in cell walls of inactivated yeast act as clarifiers with the suspended solids and At the recommended doses, its effect on Saccharomyces cerevisiae and tions caused by competing effect of chitosan.organisms. It is effective in controlling malolactic negligible and does not affect the normal course of alcoholic fermentation. and thus should be used withochratoxin care when MLand is desired. Potassium polyaspartate based solution for tartrate stabilization of wine fermentations EnartisStab Micro M Mreduces also absorbs removesthe residual coppeo EnartisStab Micro the developmentAand facilitates elimination STABILIZING AGENTS In the cellar, any good alter winemaker will track characteristics the development of Bretta- It improv thus riskthe of fermentation and yeastreducing that canthe organolepticabnormalities of oxidations. the wine during its a COMPOSITION capacity of the must and wine and increases aromatic nomyces and Acetobacter and their metabolites (4-ethyl phenol cleanliness andZygosaccharomyc acetic by adsorbi Brettanomyces, Oenococcus, Lactobacillus, Acetobacter, Potassium polyaspartate A-5D K/SD*, sulfur dioxide (approx. 0.4%), demineralizedspoilage water. microorganisms such as volatile phenols and sulfur compounds. At the recommended doses, effect onevil Saccharomyces cerevisiae and acid, respectively). Often mistaken for its Brett is its twin, Pediococcus, EnartisStab Micro M isnot allergen-free and vegan-friendly. negligible and does affect the normal course of alcoholic fermentation. The application of potassium is protected by EUstabilization patent n° EP2694637B Patent No. When these rise to alarming levels, what now by US PCR analysis. Potassium polyaspartate basedpolyaspartate solution for colloid and tartrate indetectable red EnartisStab wineand Micro M also absorbs ochratoxin A and removes residual coppe Even forUSlarge wineries, 10,508,258 B2. conventional cold stabilization has a number do you do? APPLICATIONS thus reducing the risk of fermentation abnormalities and oxidations. It improv of disadvantages. The process is incredibly energy-inefficient. A study by GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS ▪ Treatment ofmust mustand and wineand to reduce thearomatic population of unwanted micro capacity the wine increases cleanliness by adsorbi COMPOSITION In my experience,ofdraconian measures, such as sterile filtration, Velcorin Zenith Unopolyaspartate is anan effective, rapidK/SD*, and easy-to-use for potassium bitartrate stabilization in wine. ▪ Control of MLF: Non-allergenic alternative to lysozyme, can be used to d spoilage microorganisms such as volatile phenols and sulfurit compounds. Potassium A-5D gum Verek, sulfur dioxide (approx. 0.4%), demineralized Eurodia, which markets electrodialysis system forArabic this tool purpose, showed treatmentEnartisStab andfermentation. high SO 2 levels, can exacerbate these problems because they Micro M is allergen-free and vegan-friendly. water. that wineries use an average of 15 percent of their energy during crush and It can be used as an alternative to physical treatments (cooling, cations exchange electrodialysis) ▪ resins, In the pied–de-cuve during secondary fermentation of sparkling also eliminate benevolentand microbiome that competes with these bad wine, it r 28 percentwith on application cold stabilization the restpolyaspartate of the year. Another problem is that following the non-Saccharomyces yeast and bacteria. The ofadvantages: potassium is protected by EU patent n° EP2694637B and US Patent No. actors for APPLICATIONS resources. Yes, I’m saying that Brett is a hospital disease, an oppor▪ up Its does not require investment in special equipment ▪▪ In the caseof ofmust spontaneous fermentation, favors the prevalence ofmicro Sacc 10,508,258 the tank isUS tied forapplication anB2. unpredictable period. Treatment andin wine to reduce theitpopulation of unwanted tunistic winelabor pathogen that thrives a sterile environment. ▪ The stabilization process with Zenith Uno is fast and does not require skilled Saccharomyces. ▪ Control of MLF: Non-allergenic alternative to lysozyme, it can be used to d CHARACTERISTICS A study GENERAL I ran▪ at Napa Valley College to showed that cold-stabilized wines are It is more respectful wine quality: less risk of oxidation; better preservation of aromatics, color ▪ Micro Reduces of SO2 by replacing it as an antimicrobial and antioxidan I use and Stab in the lowuse doses Zenith Color is an effective, rapid and easy-to-use tool for potassium bitartrate color stabilization of as a preventative in wines that have been fermentation. thinner in body and have diminished flavor persistence in theprofile finish. One can and structure; no impact on wine sensory fermentation phase. In pied–de-cuve and during secondary fermentation of VA sparkling red and rosé wines. historically▪ problematic in previous vintages. If I need to reduce via wine, it r ▪ It at is more environmentally sustainable: lessas consumption of power, water ▪andAtproduction the end ofof alcoholic or malolactic fermentation, it reduces the microbi tell by just looking crystals in red wine that color is lost well. I believe non-Saccharomyces yeast and bacteria. reverse osmosis, I will use a higher dose to prevent a recurrence. It’s effective greenhouse gas clarification. ▪ is: In the case of spontaneous fermentation, it favors the prevalence of Sacc were chosen in order to is develop agent that that muchZenith of theColor flavorcomponents impact attributed to bottle shock actuallya stabilizing cold ▪ Prevent the formation off aromas produced by spoilage microorganisms t against bothSaccharomyces. gram-positive (Oenococcus, Pediococcus, Lactobacillis) and Also when compared to permit stabilizing agents, Zenith Uno offers advantages thatorganoleptic make it unique: quality of wine (volatile acidity, sulfur compounds, volatile ph stabilization loss. ▪ Reduces the useGluconobacter) of SO2 by replacing it as an antimicrobial ▪ Effective for tartrate stability: potassium polyaspartate interferes with the formation and growth of gram-negative (Acetobacter, and provides a safety netand for antioxidan ▪ Is very effective and can be used to stabilize quite unstable wines the treatment of must from with botrytis-infected grapes, it limits the ef Several products havebitartrate been introduced over the years stabilize in bottle. ▪ For fermentation phase. potassium crystals, thus preventing theirto precipitation those of us▪ who prefer to avoid pre-bottling filtration. ▪ Assures a long lasting stabilizing effect At the end of alcoholic or malolactic fermentation, it reduces the microbi ▪ Long-lasting stabilizing effect: Zenith Color can stabilize wines tartrates, such metatartaric arabic, mannoproteins and for a few years. ▪ asDoes not impactacid, wine gum filterability DOSAGE As an bonus, these chitosan products substantially reduce bentonite ▪ Effective for color stability: gum Arabic Verek prevents the precipitation ofadded unstable color clarification. ▪ cellulose. In red wine, it does not react with color compounds ▪▪ In must to reduce microbial load, produced remove residual copper from vineyard tt carboxymethyl Prevent the formation off aromas by spoilage microorganisms compounds present in wine. inwines whites. ▪ Is resistant to high temperatures, therefore it can be used in therequirements stabilization alternative of that to lysozyme, and reduce ochratoxin A content: 10 - 40 g/hL. ph organoleptic volatile ▪ Filterable: special production gumZenith ArabicUno reduces its clogging effect allowingquality Zenithof wine (volatile acidity, sulfur compounds, Now there’s potassiumthe polyaspartame (KPA),process brand of name undergo pasteurization ▪ In the case of sluggish or stuck fermentations to control the development ▪ For the treatment of must from with botrytis-infected grapes, it limits the ef Color to Zenith be used before final When filtration. (whites and Rosés) and Color (reds). used according to Enartis and reduce copper content (possible cause of these ferm ▪ Respectful of wine quality: no impact on sensory characters; no need for fining microorganisms to remove unstable special production process set up by Enartis, Zenith Uno colored solution that is 40 g/hL. guidelinesThe (particularly clarity),no KPA proven makes highly reliable in a clear, yellow color; lessregarding risk of oxidation; losshas of aromatics, color and structure. DOSAGE suitable for the treatment of white and rosé wines and rapid and easy-to-use. The low pH and sulphur ▪ Environmentally sustainable: stabilization Zenith Color consumes little water, and is lowmicrobial load, remove residual copper from vineyard t ▪ Inpower must to reduce the eight years since its introduction in Europe. Enartiswith compared the cost dioxide content assure long lasting microbiological stability of the solution. The indications given here correspond to the current state of our knowledge and experience, however they do not re CO2 producing. alternative to reduce improper useand of the product.ochratoxin A content: 10 - 40 g/hL. of the other alternatives, and it came out the least expensive. In their studies,safety and protection regulations or fromlysozyme, ▪ Practical, fast and easy: Its application does not require investment in special ▪ equipment In the caseorofspecific sluggish or stuck fermentations to control the development contained in Zenith Uno is a non-allergenic compound. None of the Zenith is 5Potassium percent ofpolyaspartate the cost of chill-proofing. Esseco s.r.l. - Divisionemicroorganisms Enartis skilled labor. and reduce copper content (possible cause of these ferm

ZENITH UNO

ZENITH COLOR

compounds in the formulation derives from genetically modified organisms Via San Cassiano 99 40 g/hL. ▪ 28069 San Martino, Trecate NO, Italia The special production process set up by Enartis, makes Zenith Color clear, yellow colored solution Tel. a +39 0321 790 300 | Fax + 39 0321 790 347 that APPLICATIONS The indications here correspond to the current state of our knowledge and experience, however they do not re is suitable for the treatment of rosé wines and is quick and easy-to-use. The lowgiven pH and sulfur dioxide vino@enartis.it Potassium bitartrate stabilization in white, red, rosé and sparkling wines. safety and protection regulations or from improper use of the product. content assure a long-lasting microbiological stability of the solution. www.enartis.com Esseco s.r.l. - Divisione Enartis

The potassium polyaspartate and gum Arabic contained in ZenithVia Color are non-allergenic compounds. 28 November 2020 WBM San Cassiano 99 DOSAGE 28069 San Martino, Trecate NO, Italia None of the compounds of the formulation derives from genetically modified organisms. Up to 100 mL/hL (maximum dosage permitted in EU) Tel. +39 0321 790 300 | Fax + 39 0321 790 347 APPLICATIONS 100 mL/hL contributes about 4 mg/L of SO to the wine. 2

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Insight & Opinion: Game-Changing Technologies for Small Wineries INNOVATION #4:

Mastervin Compact Vason/Julglas/BSG

As you might expect, I’ve done a lot of smoke taint mitigation research over the last few years, testing processes and protocols from several suppliers on smoke-affected wines from my clients. While working with Leo Facini at Juglas to investigate their process, I stumbled across the solution to a completely different problem: red wine clarification. Turbid red wines are a big problem in small wineries. Suspended solids can adsorb anthocyanins, resulting in color instability and negative effects for SHEET: 01/02/20 TECHNICAL DATA CHIARIFICANTI texture and longevity. In low tannin wines, such as Pinot Noir and many Midwest hybrids, suspended yeast can also attack anthocyanins enzymatically. Attempts to GRANULAR POLYCOMPOUND use enological oxygen to stabilize color are thwarted byPRODUCT the reactivity of WITH A HIGH CLARIFYNG AND COMPACTING ACTIVITY oxygen with solids, energetically favored over the phenolic polymerization that micro-oxygenation can encourage in clear wines. COMPOSITION While large wineries have centrifuges and crossflow systems for clarifying, Silica gel adsorbed on specific activated sodium bentonite and activated silica. small guys may not have access to them or (like me) are loath to use them. And I was raised to believe that CHARACTERISTICS only an idiot would use bentonite to clarify a red wine. The bentonite in MASTERVIN COMPACT comes from the best deposits of the Mediterranean area. After activation, it is granulated with a process that reduces the time Well, apparently that has changed. Mastervin is amaximum bentonite required for proper rehydration,Compact being able to ensure efficacy of the product. During the granulation process a specific silica gel is made to absorb, this improves the specifically designed for clarifying reds, with a low affinity for anthocyanins. performances of the polycompound product MASTERVIN COMPACT. size of the granules is such as to allow the smooth absorption of water by the Not only that, it sets up easily inThe cold water and doesn’t clump. As the name product, without causing insoluble mass formation. The characteristics of the “montmorillonitic” mineral selected and in particular the suggests, it settles quickly and compactly. Through the use of a special montactivation process makes it possible to obtain a final product that keeps a very high capacity (OIV method). morillonite European clay layer deproteinizing and an activation process that uses silica gel, This feature, together with the original formulation with silica gel and activated silica, makes the product suitable in all phases of stabilization in which you wish to limit the the material also has a high affinity for protein in whites, minimizing flavor dosage of fining agents and get shortly very compact mass. impact and volume loss.

MASTERVIN® COMPACT

APPLICATIONS

INNOVATION #5:

MASTERVIN® COMPACT is normally used for the clarification of musts, wines, vinegars and fruit juices. The use of MASTERVIN® COMPACT is particularly recommended in the stabilizing clarification of wine before bottling. MASTERVIN® COMPACT is suitable for removing protein excesses that can lead to precipitation in bottled wine. Excellent also on must both during static decantation and during flotation.

Blacobent UF Erbslöh Group

using MASTERVIN COMPACT comply with the relative legal regulaFor those wineries blessed withWhen crossflow tions in force. clarification equipment, bentonite has always been murderous to its membranes. As a result, it is always necessary to wait a week or two for bentonite to settle out completely before crossflow can be utilized. Sometimes your dose is not quite effective, and a second addition is required with an additional settling period. Enologica Vason S.p.A. The Erbslöh Group in Geisenheim is S. Pietro in Cariano (VR) - Italy | Tel. +39 045 6859017 | Fax +39 045 7725188 Via Nassar, 37 | 37029 info@vason.com | www.vason.com becoming increasingly well known for the development of enological products that address practical problems in winemaking. Their latest is an ultrapure bentonite devoid of abrasives, which enables in-line injection of bentonite straight to your crossflow filter, saving you time and liberating cooperage. If your wine flunks the stability test, a second addition can be made on the spot. Life is good. ®

30 November 2020 WBM

FA_Enartis_ZENITH-MICRO_AD_9.5x12.375inches_EN_US tr.indd 1

29/09/20 23:55

Insight & Opinion: Game-Changing Technologies for Small Wineries INNOVATION #6:

A particularly daunting problem for Midwest wineries is a dependency on California fruit to supplement their local vineyards when winterkill devasFOR ENOLOGICAL USE Metschnikowia pulcherrima – Excellencean Rangeincreasing tates their vines, problem as our climate changes. On the bright side, successful marketing can create shortages ® ® that local fruit sourcing did not exercising an early control of the natural flora that is present on the grapes. anticipate. As a measure of the strength ofinvolves this recently learned Bperiodioprotection After harvesting and beforemarket, yeast addition, thisIenvironment is extremely sensitive and is a very risky for the development of microbial alterations (non-Saccharomyces yeasts such as Brettanomyces, that a major California grower and bulk wine nowAs opposed derives as well as bacteria, which areproducer often the source of faults). to addingover sulphur, which destroys these microorganisms, biological control involves inoculating a slow-fermenting yeast, which occupies the niche and thus naturally prevents the growth of undesirable microorganisms. half its revenue from out-of-state sales. Back at the ranch, many California winemakers gain complexity and ENOLOGICAL INTEREST distinctiveness in their reds by cold-soaking prior to inoculation or relying on native populations of S. cerevisiae to launch indigenous fermentations. Lamothe-Abiet, after extensive research, has selected ‘‘Excellence B-Nature ’’, EXCELLENCE sit for four days or so, during which time a Either way, the musts typically a Metschnikowia pulcherrima, which has the following benefits: B-Nature® host of alcohol-intolerant yeasts andControl bacteria can manifest in their numbers of the microbiological flora from the harvest Reduction of the compounds that combine SO Increased aromatic complexity of the wine with unpredictable results. Decrease of the dosage of SO on the grapes This situation calls for a bioprotection bodyguard: An organism that thrives in juice, is neutral in flavor and is toxic to all other organisms, except TRIAL RESULTS our hero S. Cerevisiae. Yeah, right. Dream on. non-Saccharomyces yeast population And yet it is so. The good folks at Lamothe-Abiet, the materials division Trial conditions: 1,0E+6 • Sauvignon blanc, Pessac-Léognan, 2016 of Bücher Vaslin,• ABV have developed a strain of Metschnikowia pulcherrima that 13,8% vol, pH = 3,25 1,0E+5 Modalities: naturally prevents main inhibiting effect • SO + =the 5g/hL ofgrowth SO on grapes of undesirables. The 1,0E+4 • SO - = 2g/hL of SO on grapes • MPof = 2g/hL of S0 + Excellence B-Nature 5which g/hL on grapes is a toxin 1,0E+3 is the production pulcherrimine, for non-Saccharomyces 1,0E+2 After clarification,Saccharomyces the microflora in the SO + modality completely, to this toxin, so it doesn’t yeasts and bacteria. isdisappears resistant whilst it remains and even increases in the less sulfited modality SO -. For the 1,0E+1 modality, the microfloral population is greater and is made up only of the get inhibited.MP As 1,0E+0 is no competition inoculated «Bio-Nature l’Excellence B-Nature ». does not ferment, there Must SO + SO MP for nutrients, so Saccharomyces can really take over easily and start a clean fermentation without competing with any other microbes. USAGE PACKAGING Eglantine Chauffeur is perhaps the supplier whose thorough advice, Dosage: 3 to 5 g/hL. 500 g bags, 10 kg boxes. experience and integrity I respect the most in this industry. She and her Instructions for use: Dissolve inare 10 times its weight of water at 30°C and team at Lamothe-Abiet forging new tools for today’s explorations into sprinkle as soon as possible on the harvest. sustainable, natural winemaking that are taking us in directions unheard of a LAMOTHE - ABIET Avenue Ferdinand de Lesseps decade ago. Because they are concerned with materials rather than big- BORDEAUX, ticket 33610, CANEJAN FRANCE Tél : +33 (0)5 57 77 92 92 equipment sales, these innovations scale down well to address thewww.lamothe-abiet.com needs of the tiniest winery. ®

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INNOVATION #7:

Vineyard Tracking and Costing Software Modules InnoVint

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32 November 2020 WBM

Because the English-speaking winemaking world is relatively small, wineryspecific software has lagged decades behind the comprehensive, intuitive, affordable software I saw in France and Italy in the ‘90s. When I started using InnoVint, I fell instantly in love. Written by winemakers, it was so intuitive that I experienced practically no learning curve. But this is not news. We touted InnoVint in the 2016 Postmodern Winemaking Symposium as our recommendation for tracking cellar operations, lab analysis, percentages of variety, vintage and appellation and compliance reporting. Subscriptions are based on winery size and start at $149 per month. What’s new are two modules that address any winery’s thorniest challenges: vineyard activity tracking and cost of goods calculations. Vineyard managers are outdoors types and generally not thrilled to design a tracking system for observations, activities, irrigation, spraying events and lab analysis to provide full traceability from what ends up in the bottle back to each block involved.

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Insight & Opinion:

Game-Changing Technologies for Small Wineries

InnoVintâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Advanced Vineyard Tracking system does this with an intuitive, user-friendly interface. The system compares the current year with previous vintages to report variations in yields and composition, as well as forecasts harvest dates and performs task scheduling. Incredibly, the module is built into the base price at no additional cost. Equally daunting is the calculation of cost of goods sold (COGS). Tax law requires any manufacturer or reseller to accumulate the cost of goods in inventory rather than show these costs as deductible expenses on its profit/ loss calculations and yearly balance sheet. COGS is only expensable at the time of sale.

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34 November 2020 WBM

For most non-wine businesses, this is no big deal because the time period from the manufacture of the product, like a car or a can of paint, to sale is quite short. Wines, on the other hand, almost always hang around in tank or barrel for at least six months before bottling and are then sold over the next 12 months. Once a wine is produced by fermentation, usually around the holidays, It will shrink and grow, have a portion blended away into another program, receive blend components of its own, be split into lots bottled at different times and otherwise do the boogaloo cost-wise. Quickbooks can accumulate the total costs of grapes, trucking, storage, processing and so forth for the initial lot, but there is no way it can track all these cellar meanderings. InnoVint can now effortlessly account for all this lumping and splitting, shrinking and growing. Indirect costs are also allocated by your desired method. Come bottling time, we wrap packaging around a forever fixed case count and presto: an accurate and traceable bottled COGS ready to expense the first time we sell a bottle. The module is a $49 per month add-on.

INNOVATION #8:

Business Applications Zoho One As incredible a deal Innovint is for our weird little industry, you would think that the economies of scale in providing standard applications all businesses require would make them very cheap. We stitched together a crazy quilt of such apps that included Microsoft Office, Quickbooks, MailChimp, Salesforce, GoToMeeting, Dropbox and much more. Our yearly total topped $25,000, almost 10 percent of our annual gross.

Then we discovered Zoho One. In a single stroke we were able to save $18,000 by replacing 36 applications with Zoho One’s easier to use, customizable apps integrated into a single system. The cost? Would you believe $35 per user per month? I can’t say that the learning curve on these apps is as easy as Innovint. But even if the only app they had was their founding app, Zoho CRM, we would pay the $35 per month for it alone. For us, Zoho CRM is superior in ease of use and customizability to the Salesforce app we struggled with for years. Other modules central to our winery system are: Campaigns: Replaces MailChimp and integrates with CRM. Meeting: Replaces GoToMeeting. Assist: Permits remote access to our clients and also to our unattended

server, a must during shelter-in-place. Projects: A highly flexible tool for planning, executing and documenting

individual wines from grape to bottle, executing events and organizing complex operations, such as building a structure or bottling. Survey: Replaces SurveyMonkey. Social: A one-stop dashboard for all your social media accounts.

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facet of your business. Zoho One isn’t perfect. Though I pray every night to replace Quickbooks, Zoho Books and Zoho Inventory can’t yet do that. Zoho’s Writer, Sheet and Show—its analogs to Microsoft Office—are about as good as the Google apps, which is to say pretty clunky. Improvements in these areas are happening all the time. The best thing about Zoho is that they are a growing and eagerly responsive company. They will pick up the phone and answer your questions. They will respond to your suggestions. WBM

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WBM November 2020 35

winemaking

2020 WBM Closure Survey Report

Use of Technical Corks Continues to Rise Two-Thirds of Wineries Do Not Calibrate Bottling Lines for Consistent O2 Cyril Penn FIGURE 1

Please indicate what type of closures your winery currently uses on 750 ml bottles? (check all that apply) Natural Corks

Technical Corks

Synthetic Corks

Screw Caps

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2020

WBM 2020 CLOSURE SURVEY

A C C O R D I N G T O T H E 2020 Wine Business Monthly Closure Survey results, 66 percent of all wineries use natural cork to seal at least some of their wines, a slight decrease from the 70 percent reported in the 2019 survey results (FIGURE 1). At the same time, the survey shows reported usage of technical corks continuing to climb, while the use of screwcaps held steady. The big trend appears to be wineries switching some production from natural to technical cork. Eighty-four percent of wineries surveyed in 2013 used natural corks while 66 percent reported using them in 2020. At the same time, the share for technical closures increased, with 14 percent of wineries using them in 2013 and 43 percent using them in 2020. Use of technical corks skews higher for large wineries—at 67 percent in the 2020 survey results—compared to 38 percent for small wineries. Not surprisingly, the survey also shows that screw caps tend to be more widely used by large wineries—87 percent of mid- and large-sized wineries use them on some wines. Sixty percent of all wineries using screw caps were medium or large wineries ( F I G U R E 2 ) . The slow but steady shift to technical closures can be attributed to a couple of factors, costs and pricing among them. Natural cork prices have increased slightly over time because of raw material costs. Exchange rates are also part of the story.

To the extent that wineries are unable to increase retail wine prices even while their operational costs increase, margin compression puts downward pressure on packaging costs. Technical corks are generally less expensive than their natural counterparts and some come with guarantees that they are free of TCA, making them an attractive and less costly alternative.

Please indicate what type of closures your winery currently uses on 750 ml bottles? (check all that apply)

FIGURE 2

100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%

Small Winery Natural Corks WBM 2020 CLOSURE SURVEY

36 November 2020 WBM

Technical Corks

Mid/Large Winery Synthetic Corks

Screw Caps

Our standard in cork since 2018

2020 WBM Closure Survey Report SUSTAINABILITY SOMEWHAT IMPORTANT FIGURE 3

Please provide an overall rating for each of the closures listed. Natural Corks

Technical Corks

Synthetic Corks

Screw Caps

5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0

The survey asked how important it is to wineries to have closures made with sustainable materials. Very few, only 4 percent, said it isn’t important, while 11 percent said it “isn’t so important.” Eighty-five percent either said it is somewhat, very, or extremely important that closures be made with sustainable materials. Results dovetail with what we heard in the response to our Packaging Survey, which looks more broadly at the packaging market and consumer perceptions of glass, alternatives, closures and others. Forty-four percent of respondents to that survey said that they had moved to lighter-weight glass, mostly because the lighter-weight glass itself was cheaper, but 26 percent of those who switched did it for environmental reasons.

1.5 1.0 2005

2007

2009

2011

2013

2015

2017

2019

2020

WBM 2020 CLOSURE SURVEY

And winemakers are increasingly looking at them in a more positive light. In F I G U R E 3 , respondents gave closures an overall ranking on a scale of one to five. The chart indicates technical corks are viewed slightly more favorably than they were a few years ago. We also asked wineries if they’re more comfortable with natural cork than they were in the past. Results were mixed, but the majority said their comfort level hasn’t changed.

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Making the Switch Thirty-nine percent of all wineries reported changing the use of one type of closure in favor of another. That number is slightly higher for mid- and large-sized wineries, at 46 percent ( F I G U R E 4 ) . That doesn’t necessarily mean the wineries have switched all of their production from one type of closure to another. For instance, a winery that previously sealed 100 percent of its production with natural cork might hypothetically switch 20 percent of its production to an alternative, such as technical cork. FIGURE 4

Have you stopped using one type of closure in favor of another?

Small Winery

Yes 39%

No 61%

If Yes, which closure are you no longer using? 56% natural corks 20% technical corks 34% synthetic corks 5% screw caps

Mid/Large Winery

Yes 46%

No 54%

If Yes, which closure are you no longer using? 71% natural corks 29% synthetic corks

WBM 2020 CLOSURE SURVEY

The survey didn’t break out different types of technical corks, but another factor at play may be wineries purchasing fewer “twin tops” and more micro-agglomerate corks. When we asked those who had made a switch which closures they were no longer using, 58 percent overall said they were no longer using Screw natural cork Natural Technical Synthetic Corks Corks Corks Caps while 33 percent said they were no longer using synthetic closures.

The Oxygen Question We also asked survey respondents to rate each type of closure in terms of consistency of oxygen transmission. ( F I G U R E 5 )

FIGURE 5

Please rate each type of closure in terms of CONSISTENCY of oxygen transmission. Natural Corks

Technical Corks

Synthetic Corks

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Screw Caps

5.0

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WBM November 2020 39

2020 WBM Closure Survey Report SUSTAINABLE

ALTERNATIVE

PACKAGING Screw caps scored the highest on oxygen transmission consistency, not surprisingly. Technical closures, however, weren’t as highly rated on consistency of oxygen transmission, which was somewhat surprising. It’s generally acknowledged that micro-agglomerated corks are pretty consistent when it comes to oxygen transmission rates. The survey asked wineries if and how they calibrate their bottling lines to ensure consistency when it comes to the amount of oxygen that in a bottle. An encouraging number—35 percent—said they do but, as the chart indicates, some do it more often than others ( F I G U R E 6 ) . Do you calibrate your bottling line to make sure it is delivering wine with consistent oxygen levels?

FIGURE 6

All

Yes 35%

No 65%

If Yes, how often? (fill in)

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Before/During Each Bottlling Daily/Constantly Every Hour Unknown Other Every 2 or More Hours By number of bottles/cases Every 15-30 mins Random/Occastionally Every 6 months to a year Monthly Weekly

23% 21% 15% 10% 8% 5% 5% 5% 3% 3% 0%

WBM 2020 CLOSURE SURVEY

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When asked how they’re measuring in-bottle oxygen levels, 23 percent said they open bottles directly and use an oxygen probe; 5 percent use a bottle sensor such as Nomasense, 5 percent indirectly measure by looking at SO2 levels, and 9 percent measure indirectly by measuring headspace pressure (FIGURE 7). 20% technical corks 34% synthetic corks 5% screw caps F I G U R E 7 How are

you measuring in-bottle oxygen?

Natural Technical Corks Small Winery Corks

Synthetic Screw Mid/Large WineryCaps Corks

80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%

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Directly by opening a bottle and using an oxygen probe

Indirectly Indirectly by Directly by measuring measuring using a SO2 headspace throughbottle consumption pressure sensor, like Nomasense

We don’t measure in-bottle oxygen

WBM 2020 CLOSURE SURVEY

Fifty-nine percent of wineries surveyed do not measure in-bottle oxygen. The survey also asked about how wineries track the level of sensory contamination or the closure failure rate at their wineries. Wineries sometimes track that in their tasting rooms or at events but, in the survey, more than half admitted they don’t track it in the production facility. WBM

NATURAL CORK is the most frequently used closure by winemakers due to its ability to compress and expand to form a tight seal, as well as allow the wine to breathe over long periods. Natural cork is regarded as environmentally friendly, since corks are easy to recycle and cork is sustainably produced (the same trees are stripped about every nine years). Historically, the main drawback of natural cork is the possibility of wine developing cork taint (becoming “corked”) brought on by TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole) in the wine, which in most cases is said to be imparted by the cork itself due to natural occurrences in the cork or to how it is processed. Over the past couple decades, the cork industry has changed or improved their production processes to the point where there is much less of a chance of TCA contamination. Several vendors now are also guaranteeing their closures have a below the detection-threshold.

TECHNICAL CORKS include any closure made from cork granules. Often they are made to resemble natural corks and are manufactured using a combination of agglomerated natural cork granules, a binding agent, with other optional parts. For our purposes, this category includes highly-engineered closures such as the DIAM that include non-cork “microspheres” as well as cork granules and binding agents. Some of these include natural cork disks glued to the ends. These types of corks are also known as “1+1” corks (there are also 2+0: two disks on one end, and 2+2: two disks on each end). Technical corks are efficient at preserving sulfur dioxide concentrations within the bottle and are most commonly used with wines that are meant to be consumed within the short-term (two to three years). The “Twin Top” is the most well-known technical cork developed.

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SYNTHETIC CLOSURES mimic natural cork closures in how they look and function, for the most part, but are made of plastic (injection-molded or extruded), thus do not present the risk of TCA contamination. The most commonly cited drawbacks of synthetic closures are that they are difficult to remove from the wine bottle (as well as re-seal) and are susceptible to higher risks of oxygen permeation than natural cork (although this latter aspect has seen improvement). Historically, synthetic closures had drawback that has created some opposition to synthetics is their environmental impact, as they are oil-based and are not biodegradable like a natural cork. However, some synthetic closures on the market are made from plant-derived ethanol rather than petroleum.

SCREW CAPS, also known as “screwcaps” (no space), “Stelvin caps,” ROTE caps (Roll On Tamper Evident) or ROPP caps (Roll On Pilfer Proof), are made from aluminum and seal onto a wine bottle’s neck in a threaded fashion, as opposed to being pushed into the bottle’s opening like a natural cork closure. Screw caps are said to offer a tighter seal, thereby protecting against cork taint and keeping unwanted oxygen at bay, serving to preserve aromas and improve a wine’s overall quality. Conversely, some have accused screw caps of suppressing wine aroma and quality too much (reduction). Screw caps, the predominant closure choice in New Zealand, continue to rise in usage by U.S. wineries as U.S. consumers become more comfortable with them.

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Survey Respondents This year’s Closure Survey received a total of 168 responses from across North America. The purpose of the survey was to determine trends in wine bottle closure usage and perceptions within the U.S. wine industry. Please note that the findings of this survey are meant to offer a general look at trends and practices; it is not a scientific study and should be used only as a tool and a point of reference for further inquiry.

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WBM November 2020 41

winemaking

Product Review:

An Update on GOfermentor Products Richard Carey unique ways for winemakers to manage their wine production. The original GOfermentor design featured a one-ton size plastic bin containing a heavy-duty bag with two compartments inside, one for the grapes and one that could be inflated to press against the grape bag as the juice was fermenting. Vijay Singh, the creator of GOfermentor four years ago, came to the wine industry with a pharmaceutical engineering background, so it is not surprising that his production concept was based on cleanliness and ease of waste disposal. GOfermentors are now available throughout the winemaking world with users in the U.S., Canada, Europe and South America. At one-ton of fruit per cycle, most users have been smaller size producers or home winemakers, but larger winery research projects can make very efficient use of these one-ton bins for scale-up trials. Singh told Wine Business Monthly that some winemakers are now producing grape wine from over 50 tons per year using the one-ton bin units. Since the initial introduction of the one-ton size unit, there have been several developmental changes to the features of that unit and the GOfermentor product line has expanded. About three years ago, the GOfermentor JR unit was introduced with a 130 L (35 gal) blue plastic barrel that can ferment 45 to 50 Kg (100 to 110 lbs.) of fruit with all of the same techniques and controls of the larger unit. This smaller size unit is perfect for all commercial winery experiments and for avid home winemakers. A specialized â&#x20AC;&#x153;kartâ&#x20AC;? is available that can hold four JRs, each of which has its own individually controlled mini-cooling system. Another new development is the Smart Barrel, which now has several different adaptations. The original concept involved taking a used wine barrel and cutting a 10 to 12 cm opening at the bung hole. A plastic bag then GOFERMENTOR EQUIPMENT OFFERS

FIGURE 1

(RIGHT)

42 November 2020 WBM

can be inserted into the barrel for cleaner, safer barrel storage of wine. That same concept was adjusted to fit the 1135 L (300 gal) macrobin and then the 208 to 227 L (55 to 60 gal) vertical plastic barrel. All these devices can use plastic bags with different porosity levels to sequester the wine for an appropriate length of time.

GOfermentor Mechanics for Red Wine Production For red grapes, it is best if the winery has a crush pad that can crush those grapes into a must pump/hopper unit. In this case, the grapes are crushed and directly pumped into a one-ton macrobin. Any one ton bin can be used for GOfermentor operations as special attachments for supporting the two-compartment liner. One compartment is for the punching/pressing functions and the main compartment is for the grapes or other fruit being processed. If there is more than one-ton of a grape variety, then multiple bins are needed. Fermentation bags for both the one-ton GOfermentor and the GOfermentor JR are outfitted with various ports. One of those ports attaches the must pump hose directly into the main compartment. The bag has two additional ports, one for inflation/pressing and one for venting fermentation gasses. The bag for the one-ton unit also has a bottom valve. (F I G U R E 1 ) For wineries that do not have a must pump, a modification is available that allows red grapes to be crushed directly into a GOfermentor bin set under the crusher and lined with a bag setup. The bag is slit in one particular location and then positioned so the grapes drop directly into the bin. When the bin

The grapes go from the crusher to a macrobin containing GOfermentor bags. (LEFT) The GOliner inflates in the macrobin.

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Product Review: An Update on GOfermentor Products

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If a winery doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a must pump, the GOliner can be cut (RIGHT) and resealed with food-grade tape (LEFT).

FIGURE 2

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has been filled, a special food grade tape is used to seal that cut and the grapes are fermented in the normal course of production. If the crusher cannot be so positioned, the crushed grapes can be bucketed into the GOfermentor bin bag, which is then sealed (F I G U R E 2 ). After grapes are in the GOLiner bag, the winemaker can add various nutrients, yeasts, and other amendments to the fermentation by removing the sampling/temperature port connected to the GOLiner. The company has adopted a hand-operated pump that has a negative displacement suction to collect material into a container as an accessory for retrieving samples. The device has F I G U R E 3 The GOfermentor strainers on the end of the sample hose controller attaches to the side that separate liquid samples from the of the bin and the controller fermenting wine that contains skins and screen is on top of the seeds. It is a tool that many winemakers macrobin. could use widely in their winery. The fermentation process is controlled by the GOfermentor controller (F I G U R E 3 ) attached to the outer side of the bin. Hoses are connected to the punch bag part the fermentation bag. If temperature control is needed, a fermentation cooling plate is prepositioned inside the bin underneath the bag and lines are connected either to chilled water or glycol. One of the more important recent GOfermentor upgrades was the development of an App that connects to the GOfermentor controller from both iPhone and Android, providing communication with GOfermentor items (F I G U R E 4 ). The user can check on the status of the GOfermentor unit and control its operation. Each controller is connected via WiFi connected to a cloud server and then to the App on the userâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s phone paired with the appropriate F I G U R E 4 Managing controller. If something happens to the GOfermentor functions is phone or WiFi, the fermentation will easier with the GOfermentor continue as programmed, so there is little App that allows the user to potential for problems from a network or enter information directly to system catastrophe. the controller.

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Product Review: An Update on GOfermentor Products While the GOfermentor controller When a punch cycle is triggered by can perform all the necessary functhe controller or the App, the gas in tions, the screen of the controller is the head space of the main GOLiner only 2â&#x20AC;? square. One or two of three compartment where the grapes buttons below the screen are pushed are located is removed through the with either a quick click or a longer pressure relief valve as the secondary press by the user to start input. Then bag pushes its volume against the the user chooses which input item is main fermentation compartment. As inserted into the controller memory the secondary compartment expands, and can select and set functions for the fermenting juice in the bottom the direct entry of parameters. The of the main compartment is infused controller screen is valuable for obserinto the skins floating on the top of vation of current parameters, as many the fermenting juice. Pressure builds of the current conditions are shown in until the juice/skin solids form one rudimentary code on the main status intermixed unit. This can be held screen (F I G U R E 5 ). for different lengths of time. When The App simplifies the entering of the hold time trigger is satisfied, all the instructions that a winemaker the pressure is relieved from the might want their team to carry out on secondary compartment and everyany wine batch, such as the tempera- F I G U R E 5 The GObase controller screen shows the powerful nature of thing relaxes back to a no-pressure ture at which the fermentation should condition. The juice naturally flows to its data management and control, but because the screen is only two max out or the temperature level the bottom and the skins to the top, inches square, one can understand why the app is so useful. that should be maintained for the and fermenting gases will expand the fermenting wine. The number of times per day the skins and the juice should bag until the pressure relief valve allows excess CO2 to escape. Once fermentation is completed, the vacuum relief valve is removed from be mixed and how long that mixing should take place can be set on the App. the vent port, which is then sealed for the pressing cycle. At the same time, the All actions the controller is set to monitor are recorded in the controllerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s log temperature/sample port is replaced with the perforated dip tube assembly. and in the App, so accurate histories can be maintained on each fermentation.

46 November 2020 WBM

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Portable tanks? QST custom designs portables from 350 to 800 gallon capacity that have all the right features and tons of utility within the cellar. QST features 540 gallon ferm/storage models “in stock” and ready to ship. Portable tanks? QST custom designs portables from 350 to 800 gallon capacity that have all the right features and tons of utility within the cellar. QST features 540 gallon ferm /storage models “in stock” and ready to ship. F I G U R E 6 At the end of the pressing cycle, the GOliner is fully inflated and has pressed all the juice out. The inset image shows the friability of the pressed grapes.

A positive displacement pump is connected to the dip tube assembly and begins to remove first the head space gas, followed by the free-run wine. The dip tube keeps the skins and seeds in the fermentation bag. In the setup of the GOfermentor, there is a strap attached to the pressing bag to keep it at the correct angle to remove the maximum amount of wine from the fermentation compartment. Depending on the variety of grape, users of the system claim to have recovered 150 to 170 gallons per ton of fruit. There are a variety of positive displacement pumps that can be used to evacuate the free-run juice. The most expensive are the conventional rotary lobe type pumps as well as flexible vane and air diaphragm pumps. Upon completion of the pressing, the GOLiner can be lifted out of the bin and disposed of as compost or spread in the vineyard, leaving very little cleanup behind. The skins and seeds remaining in the GOLiner weigh a couple hundred pounds. It is therefore necessary to have either a forklift or a chain hoist to lift out the bag for disposal (F I G U R E 6 ).

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Product Review: An Update on GOfermentor Products

GOfermentor Mechanics for White Wine Production The GOfermentor offers aspects for white wine production as well as for red wine. First, white wines are crushed into a GOLiner as any red wine would be. Dejuicing enzymes can be added after crushing, as can SO2 to delay wild yeast fermentation. The grapes are in a protective environment, which reduces the possibility of oxidation and lets the enzymes safely do their work. The next step is to press the wine into another GOLiner for fermentation. If a winemaker wants to make barrel-fermented white wines, this second GOLiner performs like a large barrel. With the automation offered by GOfermentor, the punch-down can now act as the batonnage for the wine by stirring the lees every few hours. This action provides a more constant means of manno-protein extraction from the expired yeast in the fermentation GOLiner. After fermentation is complete, the winemaker can determine with a little experimentation how much of the lees to retain by racking into successive liners, while still maintaining the reduced oxygen environment. It is important to note that GOLiners do not have EVOH in their construction and, consequently, careful observation is needed to determine when to move the wine into tanks or Smart Barrel liners for longer-term aging.

GOfermentor JR Many tweaks in the design of the GOfermentor one-ton unit have been incorporated into the GOfermentor JR. The current model of the JR is a compact unit that will appeal to winemakers interested in small lot

fermentations of high-quality wine and can be used for both red and white wine fermentations (F I G U R E 7 ). The setup of the JR is simple. Instead of having two large compartment bags, the bladder is reusable, and the grapes go into a single use bag that is open on one side and sealed with a clamp after grapes are dumped in. The bladder for punch and press cycles consists of three bladders on the inside of a 130 L (35 gal) barrelshaped container. An exterior plastic tube manifold connects each the three bladders to the GOBase JR controller. The primary difference between the setup of the JR and the larger one-ton F I G U R E 7 This GOfermentor bin version is that the JR has a lid that JR is in the middle of pressing fits into a barrel clamp ring on the top of the wine that has finished the barrel and keeps the juice contained fermentation into one of the when punching and pressing occurs. An Smart Barrel liners. extra plastic ring has been added that extends further into the barrel clamp ring. The purpose of this extra ring is to help hold the main polycarbonate lid in the barrel clamp ring. The punch cycle squeezes the juice into the skins. For the press function, the dip tube that is attached to a pump is placed into the barrel and the bladder activated to begin pressing the juice.

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The Smart Barrel For years, the plastics industry has been looking for oxygen barriers for food protection and preservation. Today, ethylene-vinyl alcohol (EVOH) copolymer is the main oxygen barrier film. The interesting fact about this polymer is that the lower the percentage of ethylene, the greater the barrier

to oxygen transport. Consequently, it is possible to control the amount of oxygen that can pass through the film from ambient conditions to the internal space of a container made with EVOH film. Unfortunately, EVOH is sensitive to moisture. This fact requires a coextrusion of film on either side of EVOH so that the EVOH does not break down in the presence of water.

shows that the Smart Barrel liners can be used in any barrel by making a few changes to the barrel. Thus, if the ambiance of a barrel room is important for marketing, that function does not have to be lost. The Smart Barrel liners can be used in multiple other ways and have different levels of oxygen transport depending on the style of wine that is desired.

FIGURE 8

WBM November 2020 49

Product Review: An Update on GOfermentor Products This is important for the Smart Barrel concept. Technically, a “Smart Barrel” can be a container of any size up to about 1135 L or 300 gal. As in any barrel, there also is the additional requirement that the container must not have any significant head space. As mentioned above, Smart Barrel has three iterations, and two different sets of film materials in which to store wine: one with high oxygen transport at a rate of about 10 times that of a barrel and one with low oxygen transport that is estimated to be about 0.1 that of a wooden barrel (F I G U R E 8 ). The larger format macrobin type of container and the vertical plastic barrel both have functional elements that protect the wine. The third Smart Barrel – any old wooden barrel – may add ambiance to the winery and still be a vessel to hold the bag filled with wine. The high oxygen transport utilizes a plastic film that “macro” oxygenates a wine or acts as a temporary storage unit to protect the wine from rapid oxygenation by open air. The rate of oxygenation is several times faster than a regular barrel and attention must be paid to the length of time the wine is in storage. The second option is a much slower oxygen barrier material that can offer some of the benefits of micro-oxygenation. The Smart Barrel system has a sampler that can remove any head space from the bag and can also take samples of wine from the bag. In this manner, only wine is removed. No longer does one risk microbial contamination by sticking a wine thief into a bag that has just been in a previous bag that has microbial contaminants (F I G U R E 9 ).

One interesting addition to GOfermentor’s equipment is their Aspirator. The flexible tube with the blue end attaches to the top of the diptube. When the aspirator is turned on, it removes any air from the GOliner and then sucks a wine sample into the bottle attached to the aspirator. This process reduces the possibility of introducing microbial contamination to the wine. FIGURE 9

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50 November 2020 WBM

Winemaking with GOfermentor A 5,000 case winery processes 75 tons of grapes each year. With GOfermentor one-ton units, that would entail 75 separate fermentations in about a 6 to 8 week period. The question becomes, is this technology worth the extra time it takes to process that many separate fermentations? It is possible to produce wine in this way, and there are reasons to consider doing some wines using this technology. A major reason for using this technology is wine quality. We all know that visiting wineries at harvest time is wonderful, in part because the aromas of fermentation add to the ambiance of wine country. However, the best way to make wine is not in open top fermenters, because every molecule that one smells during fermentation is one that is not contributing to the wine that gets into a bottle. GOfermentor, with its closed bag fermentation process, helps significantly with this issue, as the bags contain more of the aromas that could be lost to the environment. Only those aromas squeezed out of the bag during punch down are lost. [Anecdotally, my experience is that GOfermentor fermented wines are “fruitier,” but I have not tested whether those wines analytically retain more aromatic compounds than other wines.]

I do know from working with GOfermentors that their claim that better cap management temperatures result in lower levels of reductive aromas is accurate (F I G U R E 1 0 ). A very careful study was conducted by Singh that compared cap temperatures in typical red wine fermentations. It showed a significant disparity between cap and tank wine temperatures in a conventional tank. Immediately after pump over, that temperature was briefly reduced, but was reestablished very quickly. That same temperature profile started to demonstrate itself at the beginning of a fermentation in a GOfermentor. However, since this system allows for automatic unattended mixing of the juice with the skins, the normal heat generated during red wine fermentation was more uniform throughout the entire volume of the fermenting wine.

Summary In summary, GOfermentor technology can help very small wineries grow larger by allowing them to make better, more sound wines. However, additional advances will be necessary to adapt this technology for larger-sized fermentations. The new control app allows for significantly better control of the production capabilities of the fermentation process as compared to the use of only the built-in panel of the GOfermentor controller. The Smart Barrel functionality adds containment and protection of wine when in containers that are not totally topped off and provides greater flexibility to wineries that need to keep wines safe from oxidation and microbial degradation. The GOfermentor bag system for aging and holding wines can significantly reduce the need for variable capacity tanks. WBM

european craftsmanship stainless steel F I G U R E 1 0 A is an example of the heat distribution in a wine tank during fermentation. The cap is significantly warmer than the rest of the tank and does not change over the course of fermentation.

GOfermentor’s ability to mix the juice and the skins more times a day and over many more days than is usually possible for most wineries to do, results in a warmer average temperature for red wines. This seems to be a primary reason for the better extraction of fruit flavors in wine that has been fermented in this way. FIGURE 10B

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Select Tank Suppliers BUYER’S GUIDE

This list of select vendors is generated using the Wines & Vines Buyer’s Guide. To see a full list of vendors please visit: winesvinesanalytics.com/buyersguide

ColloPack Solutions

AAA Metal Fabrication, Inc.

Beaverton, ORand  503-601-3212 Napa, CA  707-258-3940 horizon. You need tanks you need them now, but compromising www.aaametal.com www.collopack.com hem fast isStainless not how great wines are made. Steel

Euro-Machines, Inc.

Minox SRL

Stainless Steel

Our tanks are custom ordered. (stainless steal - there is an oak version, but 99% of the tanks are stainless steel)

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Fairfield, CA  707-864-5800 www.euromachinesusa.com

Letina stainless tanks – jacketed, single wall, variable, you name it – e and in stock in our Pacific Northwest warehouse, ready to ship.

Minervino Murge BT, Italy  +39 (0)883-69-43-04 www.minoxsrl.it

Ager Tank & Equipment Co.

agertank.com/letina

Portland, OR  503-222-7079 Call us today, or visit: www.agertank.com

Stainless Steel Custom tanks with stock porta AGERTANK.COM tanks available. 486 gal forkliftable,

079

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jacketed

Yes

Stainless Steel

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We stock tanks that range in size from 150 gallon to 6,500 gallon. We also accept custom orders for larger tanks.

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

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OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

Yes

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

Yes

Algor

Yes

Indianapolis, IN  425-484-0261 www.containerlogicsrp.com Stainless Steel

Containerpal

Archon Industries, Inc.

Cornerstone Stainless Containers

Oakland, CA  510-339-0170 www.artisanbarrels.com Concrete/Stainless Steel

Bouchard Cooperages

Napa, CA  707-257-3582 www.bouchardcooperages.com Concrete

Carolina Wine Supply

Yadkinville, NC  336-677-6831 www.carolinawinesupply.com Stainless Steel

CFP Winemakers

Pittsburgh, PA  412-232-4507 www.cfpwinemakers.com Stainless Steel

Vancouver, WA  877-407-3348 www.flextankusa.com Plastic

Glacier Tanks

Vancouver, WA  360-953-8453 www.glaciertanks.com Stainless Steel

GW Kent, Inc.

Criveller Group

ICC Northwest

Healdsburg, CA  707-431-2211 www.criveller.com

Greenville, SC  864-282-2301 www.blackforestmktg.com Stainless Steel Lincoln, NE  800-768-6246 www.bonarwineproducts.com Plastic

Yes

Flextank

Redmond, WA  www.cornerstonestainlesscontainers.com Stainless Steel

Black Forest Container Systems

Bonar Plastics/Snyder Industries

Yes

We have a standard production with pre-set sizes but we can also produce customized product for dimensions, materials and shapes.

OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

Yes

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

ContainerLogic SRP

St. Petersburg, FL  727-319-2300 www.containerpal.com Plastic

Artisan Barrels & Tanks, Inc.

OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

Beverly Hills, CA  323-702-0824 www.algorgroup.com Stainless Steel Suffern, NY  845-368-3600 www.shoparchonind.com Stainless Steel

WE OFFER:

Ypsilanti, MI  734-572-1300 www.gwkent.com Stainless Steel Canby, OR  503-263-2858 www.icc-inc.net Stainless Steel

La Garde

Quebec City, Canada  800-263-5170 www.lagardeinox.com

Stainless Steel

Springfield, MO  417-862-0707 www.custom-metalcraft.com Plastic/Stainless Steel

Della Toffola USA, Ltd. Santa Rosa, CA  707-544-5300 www.dellatoffola.us

Napa Fermentation Supplies Napa, CA  707-255-6372 www.napafermentation.com

Stainless YOUR Steel ONE-STOP SHOP SINCE 1983! stainless steel (marchisio) and flextank - whatever size already made pre-made

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Pasco Poly, Inc. US TODAY! CONTACT

Yes

Custom Metalcraft

San Ramon, CA  415-531-6450 www.miovigneto.com Stainless Steel

Stratford, WI  800-470-1126 www.laser-plate.com Stainless Steel

Yes

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

Mio Vigneto Products

Omega Thermo Products, LLC

Our tanks are custom ordered, plus we stock 1,000 gal. to 3,000 gal. tanks

WE OFFER:

OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

Yes

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Our tanks are custom ordered.

OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

Yes

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

Yes

Machinery & Equipment Co.

San Francisco, CA  800-227-4544 www.machineryandequipment.com Stainless Steel

Weiser, ID  208-549-1861 575 Third St. Bldg. A Napa CA 94559 www.pascopoly.com 707-255-6372 | napafermentation@aol.com Plastic/Stainless Steel www.napafermentation.com

Paul Mueller Co.

Springfield, MO  800-683-5537 www.paulmueller.com Stainless Steel

Pickering Winery Supply

San Francisco, CA  415-474-1588 www.winerystuff.com Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel WE OFFER:

all custom - stainless steel

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

Yes

Not listed here? Go to winesvinesanalytics.com/buyersguide to update your listing or email wvBuyersGuide@winebusiness.com for assistance. 52 November 2020 WBM

Prospero Equipment Corp. Pleasantville, NY  914-769-6252 www.prosperoequipment.com

Sonoma Cast Stone

Petaluma, CA  877-283-2400 www.concretewinetanks.com

CONCRETE WINE TANKS SONOMA CAST STONE

Stainless Steel Prospero offers stainless wine and sparkling wine tanks. Variable capacity, fixed capacity, stackable, rectangular, or square tanks. Tanks can be equipped with CIP, automatic punch down, and seed removal as well. We provide both stock and customized tanks. A wide range of stock sizes from 50 gallon up to 2,000 gallon sizes.

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OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

Yes

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Quality Stainless Tanks

Transition Equipment Co.

Wine Filter City

Vance Metal Fabricators

WinerySeals

Napa, CA  707-537-7787 www.transitionequipment.com Stainless Steel

Monmouth Junction, NJ  732-329-2500 www.winefiltercity.com Stainless Steel

Geneva, NY  315-759-2131 www.vancemetal.com Stainless Steel

Hayward, CA  510-732-7010 www.wineryseals.com Stainless Steel

Westec Tank & Equipment Co. Healdsburg, CA  707-431-9342 www.westectank.com Stainless Steel

Concrete

Spec Trellising

Ivyland, PA  800-237-4594 www.spectrellising.com Stainless Steel

Speidel Tank und Behälterbau GmbH Ofterdingen, Germany  +49 (0)7473 9462-0 www.speidel-behaelter.de/en

Windsor, CA  707-837-2721 www.qualitystainless.com

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Lot: Petit Verdot Block F1 - 3.4 tons Lot Status: Extended Maceration Gallons: 510 Duration: 14 days 16 hours

Stainless Steel We offer tanks with clearly defined diameters with useful contents. However, it is always possible to adjust the height and equipment of the tanks to the customer’s request.

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Both custom and stock stainless steel tanks

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OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

6A-PVPL1632F1

Yes

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Yes

Raynox 2000, Inc.

Rougemont, QC, Canada  450-469-4219 www.raynoxinc.com Stainless Steel

OFFER VARIABLE CAPACITY:

Sacmi USA De Franceschi

Des Moines, IA  515-276-2052 www.sacmiusa.com Stainless Steel

Fresno, CA  559-233-7116 www.sanitarystainless.com

AUTO 78.5°

Heat Set Point:

65.0°

Pump over:

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23:30 03:30 07:30

15 min w/ aeration 15 min 15 min w/ aeration

Spokane Industries

Spokane, WA  509-241-4116 www.spokaneindustries.com

Precise Temperature Control

Stainless Steel Our tanks are custom ordered. Tailorable 550 gal. (2 ton) and 825 gal. (3 ton) portable open top totes are stocked.

Scheduled Pump-over & Aeration

Brix / Temp Tracking

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Yes

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Sanitary Stainless Welding

Mode: Cool Set Point:

Yes

Revolution Equipment Sales

Santa Rosa, CA  707-573-3154 www.revolutionequipmentsales.com Stainless Steel

Brix

01 SEP 15:24

Alarm Notifications

Barrel Room CO₂ Night-Air & Humidity

Production Software Integration

Yes

St. Patrick’s of Texas

Taylor, TX  210-402-7326 www.stpats.com Stainless Steel

www.acrolon.com

Sonoma, California USA

Stout Tanks and Kettles

Portland, OR  503-372-9580 www.conical-fermenter.com Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel WE OFFER:

Our tanks are custom ordered.

OFFER FORKLIFT SKIDS:

Yes

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Santa Rosa Stainless Steel

Santa Rosa, CA  707-544-7777 www.srss.com Stainless Steel

Silver State Stainless

Mound House, NV  775-246-1180 www.silverstatestainless.com Stainless Steel

Tanks for Wine

Craft CO2 Safety in your winery

American Canyon, CA  916-730-5485 www.tanksforwine.com Plastic/Stainless Steel

The Remote Storage Safety 3 Alarm meets IFC, NBIC & NFPA Code requirements for CO2 alarms in wineries or anywhere compressed CO2 is used or stored.

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WBM November 2020 53

winemaking

Winemaker’s Trial

Examining the Profile Change from O2 During Fermentation in Cabernet Sauvignon Wanting to create a richer, more opulent style of Cabernet Sauvignon, Alpha Omega winemaker, Henrik Poulsen, experimented with increased levels of oxygen during primary fermentation to see how that would affect tannin polymerization and yeast performance.

Henrik Poulsen’s career took him from the Old World of winemaking to the New World of Napa Valley where, since 2000, he has handcrafted ultra-premium wines. A member of Alpha Omega’s founding winemaking team, his first seven years of crafting wine at Alpha Omega helped put the winery on the map. He reunited with his Alpha Omega family in 2019 to oversee all aspects of winemaking. ALPHA OMEGA WINEMAKER

ANALYSIS NAME

LOT 1

LOT 2

UNITS

free sulfur dioxide

mg/L

molecular sulfur dioxide

<0.10

mg/L

total sulfur dioxide

mg/L

titratable acidity

6.2

6.7

g/L

3.73

3.67

volatile acidity (acetic)

0.67

0.64

g/L

L-malic acid

0.1

0.75

g/L

TRIAL OBJECTIVE: The objective of this trial was to examine how higher

glucose + fructose

0.4

0.3

g/L

amounts of oxygen during fermentation would impact the profile of the tannins and the performance of the yeast.

ethanol at 20C

15.42

15.3

% vol

ethanol at 60F

15.37

15.25

% vol

TRIAL DESCRIPTION: About 2.4 tons of 2019 St. Helena Cabernet

catechin

mg/L

Sauvignon were crushed into two sets of four open-top barrels for barrel fermentation. Each lot included two new barrels and two used or neutral barrels. After a three-day cold soak, both were inoculated. After the Brix dropped below 20° on the trial lot, Pulsairs were replaced with bubbling pure oxygen via a sparging stone. Oxygen was monitored with a DO meter, and each barrel was held at 5 ppm DO for five minutes when the treatment was performed. It took four days for the fermentation to reach 10° Brix after dropping below 20° Brix. After this point, all oxygen treatments were halted, and all procedures mimicked control.

tannin

1507

1488

mg/L

polymeric anthocyanins

120

117

mg/L

total anthocyanins

574

616

mg/L

catechin/tannin index

<0.010

polymeric anthocyanins/tannin index

0.08

0.079

LOT 1: 2019

St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon—Control LOT 2: 2019 St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon—O2 Treatment TRIAL CONCLUSION:

Tests did not demonstrate an increase in polymerized anthocyanin or a decrease in tannin. However, the producing winery believes the texture of the tannin was significantly altered by the oxygen treatment. We believe the wines show more of a ripe, voluptuous character, both aromatically and on the palate, as opposed to a leaner, fresher character.

54 November 2020 WBM

ETS LABORATORIES

Winemaker’s Post-Mortem Why are you specifically interested in modifying tannins earlier in the fermentation process? Poulsen: Generally speaking, the earlier we can impact the tannin profile,

the better, and this would give us an opportunity to modify them as they extract. The other factor is the yeast in solution. Going in, we knew that the oxygen would be absorbed rather quickly, and that proved to be true, but we did not know if that absorption would be by yeast, tannin or simply oxygen being pushed out of solution by generation of CO2. After the trial was complete, it was clear that both the tannins and the yeast had been impacted. We were originally hoping for more polymerization via the

BOB MCCLENAHAN

creation of acetyl-bridges by the O2 ; but because we did not see a significant jump in polymerization, we don’t think that was the biggest impact the O2 had on the wine. We did, however, see a dramatic change in the aroma of the wine, making the wine jammier and fruitier, leading us to believe the yeast had a bigger role in absorbing the O2. We also saw a slightly jammier texture on the palate. Overall, this technique seemed to lend itself toward a more opulent style of wine.

Describe how you set up the trial. Poulsen: We split the Clone 337 block of our Partridge Vineyard Cabernet

Sauvignon into two open-top barrel fermentation lots. We ended up with four barrels of control and four barrels of trial. The control was fermented in the traditional manner of our barrel fermentation, and the trial lot followed the same procedure across the board. At 20° Brix, we began sparging with O2. We used a device involving a plastic shell and holes that we call the “torpedo” to create an all-liquid environment for the O2 stone and DO probe to sparge and measure. The O2 stone was linked to pure oxygen and was sparged in slowly until the DO probe read 5 ppm. We then slowed down O2 incursion until the DO held steady. We did this for five minutes per barrel. The first day of sparging, we were at 20° Brix; the second day, we reached 17.5° Brix; and by the third day, we were down to 12.5° Brix. On the fourth day, we decided not to sparge since Brix measured 6.6°. We did see an acceleration of fermentation during the sparging.

Sparging stones were used to create pure oxygen bubbling in the wine. How often did you conduct this procedure and for how long? Poulsen: We performed this for five minutes once a day. We only performed

it for three days during the fermentation, when it was between 20° and 10° Brix. This ended up being the fifth, sixth and seventh days of fermentation.

Can you describe some of your observations during the course of the experiment? Poulsen: The biggest observations during fermentation were, first, that

the O2 increased fermentation speed by 1° to 2° Brix and, second, that the fermentation’s ability to absorb oxygen was pretty impressive. After the O2 sparging, it took roughly 90 seconds for the DO to return to zero.

Did you encounter any complications during the course of the trial? Poulsen: There were a lot of skeptical looks from our French harvest interns.

This didn’t slow us down at all, though.

Your conclusion states that lab tests did not show any change in tannins, but you and your team believe that the texture has, in fact, been altered. On what basis did you make that conclusion? Poulsen: It was purely organoleptic. In our tasting, we think of the wines

as being more aggressive on the palate and aromatics. That being said, a big unknown for us is how the oxygen absorbed by the yeast affected the palate. We would love to see data on whether polysaccharide or glycerol production was affected in any way. We would also be curious about mean degree of polymerization.

Based on the conclusion of this trial, would you repeat this experiment? Poulsen: We felt the data points were a little sparse to properly validate

our organoleptic findings, so we will repeat this experiment with 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Based on the conclusion of this trial, do you think the Alpha Omega winemaking team will alter any of their winemaking protocols? Poulsen: While we naturally are curious to see the effects of our research, at

this point we have no intentions of letting this single trial affect the overall winemaking strategies.

What are some of the lessons or main takeaways you learned from this trial? Poulsen: We feel fairly confident this technique is an effective way to create a richer, more opulent style of Cabernet Sauvignon. WBM

grape growing Rootstock:

The Biggest Mistake You Can Make in Your Vineyard Selecting the wrong rootstock is something you have to live with. Mark Greenspan

MARK GREENSPAN

This vineyard has 101-14 rootstock on the left and 1103P rootstock on the right. The 101-14 performed very poorly in the cracking clay soil type while 1103P performed much better.

frustrating, it’s exasperating when you have a new client ask you, “What’s wrong with my vineyard,” knowing what the answer is even before delving any deeper. Sometimes it’s just obvious: The rootstock is not appropriate for the site. Often this is devastating. While we can change scion varieties, amend soils, irrigate and fertilize differently, one thing we cannot change is rootstock, at least not in any cost-effective way. Approach or inarch grafting is a way to graft a new root system onto an existing plant, and many attempts were made to do this during the AxR1 failures of the ‘90s. Most of those attempts were not successful enough to indicate that rootstocks could be replaced effectively that way. So, for all practical purposes, the one thing you’re stuck with, short of replanting the vineyard, is your rootstock—so make sure it’s going to work. Finding the right rootstock is not trivial. If it were, consultants like me wouldn’t constantly be asked to choose rootstocks for vineyard developments based on factors, such as soil characteristics, weather and water patterns, grape variety and quality targets. Here are some of the most common foibles I’ve seen. The list is not exhaustive by any means. I T I S N O T O N LY

56 November 2020 WBM

Soil Chemistry Mismatches Soil chemistry is so complex that choosing a rootstock that is inappropriate for a specific soil chemistry condition is probably the most common mistake I see in practice. There are many ways to fail in this regard, but probably the most common one I see involves potassium or, more broadly, the balance among the major nutrient cations: potassium, magnesium and calcium (K, Mg, Ca). While all three nutrients are essential for vine health and proper Dr. Mark Greenspan has more than 30 years of scientific viticulture research and viticultural field experience. He specializes in irrigation and nutrition management, yield and canopy management, vineyard climate and microclimate, vineyard design and vineyard technologies. He is the founder of Advanced Viticulture, Inc. based in Windsor, California (www.advancedvit. com), providing consulting, technology and automation, vineyard management and vineyard development for wineries, winemakers and wine growers devoted to producing premium wines. Please direct queries to mark@advancedvit.com or 707-838-3805.

The largest collection of gnarly old-growth (vines) in California. It took Joseph Spenker 154 days to walk (yes, walk) across the country back in 1851. Astonishingly, upon reaching Lodi, the furthest thing on his mind was rest. Instead, he went right to work—farming. And of the many things he planted, winegrapes were at the top of the list. Today, many of Joseph Spenker’s vines are still thriving, producing and distinguishing Lodi as having the largest collection of historic old-growth vineyards in North America. But what exactly does that get you besides (should you meet all the criteria) a coollooking historic plaque to put up in your vineyard? For starters, as sommeliers the world over explain it, the older the vine the more interesting the wine. Which is exactly what progressive winemakers the world over are in search of. And like Joseph Spenker, these trailblazers are making a beeline for Lodi and going straight to work—crafting vineyard-driven varietal wines of some pretty—well, gnarly distinction. Few of them, however, walk here. Most drive, which you will undoubtedly do, as well. Even better, you don’t have to plant anything; you can just sit back and taste. There’s something happening here.

Visit: LodiWine.com

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58 November 2020 WBM

development of the crop, potassium is the one nutrient that can be problematic, both when deficient as well as in excess. Potassium is a mobile nutrient in the plant and is involved with many plant functions, but perhaps the most critical role of potassium is in moisture regulation of the plant, specifically the action of opening and closing the leaf stomatal pores. Vines deficient in potassium do poorly in regulating their hydration. Severe deficiencies can cause basal leaf loss; and as the leaves senesce, they release what potassium reserves they have, which can end up in the fruit. Excessive juice potassium, which is commonly caused by excessive plant potassium levels, may also be caused by senescent leaves, which export their potassium to the vine and clusters before they drop off the vine. Soils may be naturally high or low in potassium, but more importantly, the three main cationic elements must be in balance for them to be taken up in proper amounts. With the exception of some volcanic soils that can have excessive amounts of potassium, soils in coastal California regions tend to be low to moderate in potassium. To make matters more difficult, many soils have elevated to excessive Ca or Mg. Central Coast soils tend to be high in Ca while high Mg is found in soils up and down the coast. Serpentine-derived soils, common along the coast, are the extreme, with Mg dominating the cation exchange sites of the soils. This can limit K uptake. Choice of rootstock with respect to potassium is critical. Two common rootstocks used in consideration of potassium are 420A and 101-14, both very commonly used in coastal vineyards. 420A is a great rootstock—low vigor with a decent measure of drought tolerance—and it is very good at excluding potassium uptake into the vine. That can be very useful where soils are excessive or slightly so in potassium and/or deficient in Mg/Ca that could lead to excessive K uptake. For this reason, it is often appreciated by winemakers who don’t want to see high K concentrations in their juice. However, in low K soils or high Mg soils, very commonly found in our vineyard soils, severe potassium deficiencies can arise when using 420A rootstock. I’ve seen extreme K deficiency symptoms on 420A-planted vineyards, and their correction requires ongoing soil amending, as well as fertilization, both foliar-applied and soil-applied. If not corrected, the severe K deficiencies can hamper fruit sugar accumulation, and late-season leaf senescence may actually elevate the juice K, which is the opposite of what motivated the rootstock choice from the start. On the other hand, 101-14 may be a good choice for soils severely deficient in K or in soils with elevated Mg, which would otherwise restrict K uptake. But, using 101-14 in soils with adequate K can cause elevated plant K and, hence, elevated juice K. Furthermore, 101-14 is one of the least drought-tolerant rootstocks in our arsenal of choices and has the frustrating tendency to shut down after experiencing water stress, dropping leaves and tending to lag in its recovery. It also performs very poorly in heavy soils, especially those with cracking clays. The rootstock 44-53 has the distinct feature that it excludes Mg uptake and is sometimes chosen for extremely high Mg soils, though I’ve also seen it used for soils that are simply elevated in Mg. For the latter, the rootstock is a poor choice as it can create Mg deficiency in all but soils of the highest Mg excessiveness. Other rootstocks with a high-K tendency include St. George, 110R, SO4, 5BB, 3309 and Fercal, a rootstock suited for soils with high levels of free lime1. These should be avoided where soil K is high. On the other hand, rootstocks with a low-K uptake propensity include 1103P and 420A, already mentioned.

The Biggest Mistake You Can Make in Your Vineyard

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As I indicated in a relatively recent article2, nematodes can be a serious pest of grapevines yet are often ignored when selecting rootstocks. Now, lacking fumigation as a soil preparation tool (fumigation was never a good practice anyway), we have limited options for controlling nematodes outside of selecting rootstocks that are resistant to them. I would never, ever make a rootstock decision without having done some sampling for nematodes first. Existing vineyards that are being replanted almost certainly harbor some species of nematodes, but even some virgin (never-in-grape) soils have shown to contain some important levels of nematodes. We don’t usually see root knot nematode in virgin ground, but we do see dagger (Xiphinema americanum, not X. index) and sometimes ring nematode. So, don’t just assume you can do whatever you want for newly-planted vineyards. Sample for nematodes and let that knowledge be part of the decision process. Rootstocks vary in their resistance or tolerance to nematodes and in their resistance to specific nematode species. Rootstocks resistant to dagger nematode include O39-16 (which is also resistant to the fanleaf virus vectored by X. index) and Schwarzmann, the latter of which is one of my go-to rootstocks in many situations. Rootstocks resistant to root knot nematodes include 1616C (another favorite of mine), 5C, SO4 and 5BB. Note that I didn’t mention the high-vigor rootstocks tailored for the Central Valley, namely Harmony and Freedom—though those are acceptable choices for high-production vineyards, usually in the Central Valley. When I see high levels of both root knot and dagger, I often gravitate to Schwarzmann. If X. index is present, along with Fanleaf virus in the vineyard, we’re mainly left with O39-16, which is not a great rootstock viticulturally, largely due to its high vigor, and it is quite susceptible to root knot nematode. The GRN-series of nematode-resistant rootstocks recently developed by Andy Walker at UC Davis are resistant to a broad spectrum of nematodes, including ring nematode, so heavily infested soils will probably be best served with one of those. GRN-1 seems to be the most promising for coastal vineyards due to its nematode resistance/tolerance and its moderate vigor. By the way, notably poor rootstock choices for nematode resistance include 3309C, St. George and 110R. Additionally, 420A and 1103P have low resistance to dagger nematode while having some resistance to root knot.

Waterlogging When evaluating soils, we look for signs of seasonal waterlogging. This can either be in the form of gleying, a grey-ish coloring often accompanied by a foul, reduced odor, or in the form of rust mottling. We look at the depth or shallowness of the mottles to indicate the depth at which the soil is periodically waterlogged and anoxic. While some of this can be mitigated by drainage, rootstock selection is paramount for surmounting the consequences of waterlogged soils. I’ve seen many sections of vineyards killed by waterlogging, and they have almost always been on rootstocks sensitive to that condition. For waterlogged soils, my go-to choice is 1616C, which is very resistant to that condition. SO4 is also a good choice for excessively wet soil conditions, with 101-14 also being a decent choice if waterlogging is not severe or long-term.

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Drought Tolerance This is often the first thing people think of when picking a rootstock. While it can be an extremely important consideration where both water resources and soil water-holding capacity are limited, using the most drought-tolerant rootstock need not always be the primary consideration. For situations where irrigation water is limited, however, one does need to consider drought tolerance. Drought-tolerant rootstocks, such as 140Ru, 110R and 1103P, are quite vigorous and can exacerbate the water deficiency by rapidly forming a full vegetative canopy and then wasting water by way of their propensity to keep vines unstressed—stomata wide open, even when soil moisture reserves are running low. Keep in mind that, for fine wine production, we want to induce some water stress in the vines, and such drought-tolerant rootstocks may never reach the stress targets we aim for at the phenological stage we desire (i.e., lag phase through veraison). Caution should be taken against choosing the most drought-tolerant rootstocks, except where irrigation is limited or soils are extremely limited in their water-holding capacity. In the latter case, we can still control vine stress, even with drought-tolerant rootstocks, because the soils simply won’t hold very much moisture and irrigation can be applied judiciously to steer the vines into moderate water stress when needed. For most applications in coastal vineyards, at least those with ample winter rainfall or irrigation resources, we usually aim for moderately drought-tolerant rootstocks, like Schwarzmann or 3309C (the latter not for nematode-infested soils, though), or moderate to less than moderately drought-tolerant rootstocks, like 420A, 5BB (which tends to be vigorous) or SO4. Drought-sensitive rootstocks, like 101-14 and 1616C, need to be used in situations where soils remain moist for an extended period of time and where irrigation is available to carry the vines through the latter part of the dry growing season.

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Vigor This is a slightly complicated factor since there are more factors that influence vine vigor than rootstock alone. In fact, vine spacing can have a larger influence on the vegetative growth of the vine than rootstock. Planting vines closer together means that fewer buds will be retained per vine, which tends to invigorate shoot growth from those buds. So, using a vigorous rootstock can be detrimental in cases where vine spacing is close, which has been the trend in recent years. For example, 1103P rootstock with a 4-foot in-row vine spacing is probably asking for trouble. With modern vine spacing in coastal vineyards (which tend to be on the order of 4 to 5 feet), low to moderate vigor rootstocks are usually desirable. Choices like Schwarzmann, 3309C (again, only without nematodes being present) and SO4 are good options in the moderate or moderately low-vigor range. For tighter vine spacings on the order of 3 to 4 feet, low-vigor rootstocks, like 101-14, 420A and 1616C, are usually better choices. The high-vigor rootstocks, like 110R and 1103P, perform best for vine spacings of 5 to 6 feet, though spacings of greater than 5 feet are becoming rare because of a trend towards smaller vines, as well as an increasing interest in cane-pruning of vines. If it were easy, growers would not require the use of experienced viticulturists to choose rootstocks. The fact is, it’s not easy. Taking in all the factors to make a rootstock decision is not trivial or cheap. But making the wrong rootstock decision is even more costly. And long-lasting. WBM 1 Pouget, R. Methode de classification des varietes de porte-greffes de la vigne en fonction de leurs capacites d’absorption du potassium, du calcium et du magnesium: utilisation comme test de selection pour la resistance a la carence en magnesium. 3. Symposium International, Jun 1986, Bordeaux, France.

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2 Greenspan, M. Replanting Vineyards: Watch Out for Nematodes. Wine Business Monthly. April 2019. WBM November 2020 61

grape growing

Landscape Diversity Influences Leafhopper Biocontrol Cover crops attract beneficials, but overwintering habitat is key to biological control Houston Wilson, Kent Daane, Serguei Triapitsyn, Albie Miles and Miguel Altieri Houston Wilson is assistant cooperative extension specialist, Dept. of Entomology, University of California, Riverside.

Kent Daane is cooperative extension specialist, Dept. of Environmental Science, Policy & Management, University of California, Berkeley.

Serguei Triapitsyn is principal museum scientist, Entomology Research Museum, Dept. of Entomology, University of California, Riverside.

and other on-farm habitat plantings are a popular way to enhance vineyard aesthetics, contribute to biodiversity conservation and improve crop production. By providing shelter, pollen, nectar and/or alternate prey, habitat plantings can help conserve beneficial insects, native pollinators and butterflies, as well as birds and other wildlife in and around vineyards. Habitat plantings can also improve soil quality, reduce erosion, act as wind breaks and, by supporting beneficial insect populations, possibly lead to increased biological control of key vineyard pests. In recognition of all these benefits, the U.S. Department of Agriculture-Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) provides growers with subsidies for on-farm habitat plantings through the Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP), and numerous seed providers regularly market various “insectary blends” of cover crops to growers. Interest in the use of habitat diversification to enhance biological control is, in part, driven by concerns about the impacts and future availability of some chemical control options, which could become more limited due to changes in product efficacy, increased costs and/or regulation. For example, the European Commission is proposing a ban on neonicotenoids, one of the more popular insecticides used in vineyards. It is also a response to rising

Albie Miles is assistant professor, Dept. Social Sciences, University of HawaiiWest Oahu.

Miguel Altieri is professor, Dept. of Environmental Science, Policy & Management, University of California, Berkeley.

FLOW ER ING COV ER CROPS, HEDGEROWS

Key Points • Flowering summer cover crops were evaluated for their ability to enhance biological control of Western grape leafhoppers (WGLH) in North Coast vineyards. • While the flowering cover crops did attract a lot of beneficial insects, they did not lead to enhanced control of WGLH. • Biological control of WGLH was greatest in vineyards with nearby overwintering habitat for Anagrus spp., the key parasitoids of WGLH. • Coyote brush and blackberry are the key overwintering habitats used by Anagrus spp. • Vineyard habitat diversification can produce benefits, but there are also risks, and outcomes can be variable, so it is important to consider broader vineyard management goals.

Wild coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis spp. consanguinea) grows in large clumps up to 12 feet tall in left photo at Preston Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley. The prostrate form (Baccharis pilularis spp. pilularis) is a low growing alternative that may be easier to manage at Ridge Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (middle photo). Wild coyote brush in foreground of right photo at Fetzer Vineyards, Mendocino County.

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Landscape Diversity Influences Leafhopper Biocontrol

consumer demand for sustainable farming practices more generally, which is especially pertinent in a crop like winegrapes where consumers regularly visit the vineyard and inquire about production practices. Collectively, these drivers are not new to viticulture, and many growers have experimented with various ecologically-based pest management practices for years—including the use of flowering cover crops. Yet much remains to be learned about how to effectively use these practices. While there is an abundance of information available about which plants are known to attract beneficial insects, it is still unclear how to best integrate these plants into vineyard production systems in a way that can produce consistent benefits. As such, more rigorous evaluations are needed in order to generate reliable recommendations for growers that are interested in the use of on-farm habitat manipulation to enhance biological control.

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UC Berkeley Flowering Cover Crops Project (2008-2013) In 2008, North Coast winegrape growers and researchers at the University of California, Berkeley came together to develop and evaluate the use of summer flowering cover crops to enhance biological control of the Western grape leafhopper (Erythroneura elegantula). Key natural enemies of this leafhopper include the egg parasitoids Anagrus erythroneurae and A. daanei, and various generalist predators, such as spiders, green lacewings (Chrysoperla spp.) and minute pirate bugs (Orius spp.). The first step involved selecting which species of flowers to work with. Review of the scientific literature identified dozens of flowers that had been used (with varying degrees of success) to enhance biological control in vineyards and other perennial cropping systems. Growers then provided a number of criteria for flower selection in order to narrow the search. Ease of integration with vineyard management was key, so no flower species could be used that required supplemental irrigation or created significant competition for water or nutrients for grapevines. Arrangement of flowers in the vineyard needed to be done in a way that would not interfere with crop development or disrupt workers or machinery access to the grapevine canopy. The species need to be seeded in the fall, to coincide with the planting of overwintering cover crops. With these criteria in mind, from 2008-2011 numerous pilot studies occurred across several dozen vineyards in Napa and Sonoma counties as growers and researchers experimented with various arrangements and densities of different flower species. Flowering cover crops tested included annual buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum), sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima), California bluebells (Phacelia campanularia), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), purple tansy (Phacelia tanacetifolia), Bishop’s flower (Ammi majus) and various mustards (Brassica spp.). Growers experimented with flowers sown underneath the vine row and/or in tractor rows, broadcast seeding or use of seed drills, and timing of winter/ spring sowing. Grower-researcher exchanges were a key part of the development and evaluation process. Each year, two or three meetings and/or site visits occurred in which growers and researchers shared information about their experiences working with the flowers. Which type of seed drill was best for the small seeded flowers? Which flowers attracted the most beneficial insects? Which flowers seemed to best tolerate low soil moisture? It was through this process of dialogue that allowed the group to solve problems and determine the best way to use flowers in a vineyard. Ultimately, three species of flowering cover crop were selected for use in vineyards: purple tansy (P. tanacetifolia), Bishop’s flower (A. majus) and

Queen Anne’s lace (D. carota). These species can be sown in combination within alternate tractor rows in the fall, have a sequential bloom sequence the following spring/summer and do not require any supplemental irrigation. A seed drill with the outer two ports blocked off is used to sow the flowers in a narrow strip (6 inches wide, 1 to 2 inches deep) in the tractor row at a rate of 0.5 to 2 lbs. per acre (see T A B L E 1 ). With this method of sowing, competition with the vines and obstruction of the canopy are minimized, and an open space is left between the stand of flowers and the vine row that allows access for workers and machinery. Seeding rates and bloom period for the flowering cover crops used in this experiment.

TA B L E 1 .

Seed Rate (per acre)

Common Name

Species Name

Bloom Period

Purple Tansy

Phacelia tanacetifolia

2 lbs.

April - May

Bishop’s Flower

Ammi majus

0.5 lbs.

May - June

Queen Anne’s Lace

Daucus carota

0.5 lbs.

July - September

The flower seeds are sown after harvest and then germinate and establish in the late fall and winter. In the spring, the purple tansy is the first to bloom, beginning around mid-April. Following peak bloom, the purple tansy is mown to about 10 to 12 inches in height. This keeps the flowers from setting

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seeds and spreading to other areas of the vineyard, where they might become weeds, and also opens up the stand of flowers in order to allow the next species, Bishop’s flower, to come up and bloom. A similar mowing occurs after peak bloom of the Bishop’s flower to make space for the Queen Anne’s lace to bloom. Just before harvest, the flowering cover crops are mown, and then, following harvest, they can be re-seeded for the following year. Flower seed can be purchased from most commercial seed companies for about $20 per lb. With the flowering cover crop treatment worked out, a large-scale replicated experiment was set up. In 2012-2013, paired plots with and without flowering cover crops (2 acres each) were established at 10 vineyards across Napa and Sonoma counties to evaluate the flowering habitat’s influence on numbers of beneficial and pest insects, pest parasitism rates, and crop vigor, yield and quality. Results found that while the flowering cover crops attracted a lot of beneficial insects, this never translated into higher populations of beneficial insects in the vine canopy itself or to any impacts on leafhopper numbers on the vine. On the upside, the flowers did not seem to have any negative impacts on crop vigor, yield or quality. Similar outcomes have been observed in other cropping systems—flowering cover crops attract a lot of beneficial insects, but actual reductions in pest populations are much less common. These variable outcomes have a lot to do with the specific needs of the target organisms that a researcher or grower is trying to manipulate. For example, while flowering cover crops can indeed provide additional shelter, nectar, pollen and/or alternate prey for beneficial insects—to what

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Landscape Diversity Influences Leafhopper Biocontrol

extent are each of these a limiting factor for the specific beneficial insect that you are trying to support in the vineyard? Research was focused on the control of grape leafhopper, and the suite of beneficial insects that arrived at the flowers may have been more interested in simply acquiring nectar and pollen and/or feeding on some other species of insect.

Importance of Landscape Diversity for Biological Control During analysis of this experiment, a lot of variability in the data was noticed between study sites. At some vineyards, leafhopper eggs were being consistently parasitized by Anagrus spp., regardless of the flowering cover crop, while at other vineyards parasitism was consistently low. Anagrus spp. parasitoids seasonally move between vineyards and overwintering sites. This is because Anagrus spp. require leafhopper eggs to successfully overwinter, and the grape leafhopper overwinters as an adult. As grape leafhoppers stop laying eggs at the end of the growing season, the Anagrus spp. are forced to seek out alternate leafhopper species that lay eggs through the winter. Alternate hosts are most likely found in natural habitats outside of vineyards, which was confirmed by a recent North Coast survey conducted in parallel with this flowering cover crop project. Our survey revealed these parasitoids primarily overwinter on coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis) and blackberry (Rubus spp.). While blackberry was identified as an overwintering host for Anagrus spp. many decades ago, use of coyote brush by these parasitoids was unknown until this survey. Furthermore, total abundance of Anagrus spp. that overwintered on coyote brush was significantly higher than on blackberry, indicating that this plant plays a major role in supporting regional populations of these parasitoids. As such, it may be that vineyards located closer to these overwintering sites experience earlier colonization by Anagrus spp., and this may subsequently lead to higher parasitism rates and lower leafhopper densities. The proportion of natural habitat within one-third of a mile of each study site was calculated as an analog for the abundance of suitable overwintering habitat (most natural habitats in the North Coast contain blackberry and/ or coyote brush). This new measure of “landscape diversity” was then used to reevaluate key measures from the flowering cover crop experiment. The new analysis revealed that vineyards located in areas with greater amounts of natural habitat within one-third of a mile tended to have higher early season populations of Anagrus spp., which led to higher early season parasitism rates and subsequently lower late season leafhopper populations.

Conclusions and Implications These studies support the conclusion that summer flowering cover crops attracted an abundance and diversity of beneficial insects, but this did not lead to increased rates of biological control of leafhoppers. Instead, the availability of overwintering habitat for Anagrus parasitoids close to vineyards was the critical factor. What were those beneficial insects doing on the flowers then? It may be that they were simply acquiring nectar and/or pollen and then feeding on some other, non-leafhopper species of insect. Alternately, beneficial insect populations attracted to the flowering cover crops may have simply not been sufficient to adequately reduce leafhopper abundance. Given these findings, growers interested in the use of on-farm habitat plantings to enhance biological control of leafhoppers would be advised to focus on conserving native plant habitat or establishing more blackberry and coyote brush in particular. These are the key plants that support the alternate

66 November 2020 WBM

leafhopper host species utilized by Anagrus parasitoids in the winter, and vineyard proximity to these Anagrus overwintering habitats allows the parasitoids to colonize the vineyard and start attacking Western grape leafhopper earlier in the growing season. Habitat diversification can certainly play a role in any integrated pest management program, but the selection, arrangement and scale of plantings must address the specific needs and limiting factors of the organisms being targeted by such interventions. Additionally, ecological and economic tradeoffs must be carefully weighed when considering on-farm habitat plantings. For all of the benefits mentioned above that these plantings may bring, they can also interfere with frost protection, harbor field mice, compete for soil nutrients and moisture and even support secondary pests, like mites and thrips. Ultimately, the decision on how, when and where to include habitat diversity in the vineyard will depend on the specific needs and objectives of the grower and the perceived benefits. For example, in this study flowering cover crops were found to support wild bee populations, which may be of interest to growers concerned about biodiversity conservation, regardless of impacts on biological control. Alternately, growers concerned about Pierce’s disease may be actively removing blackberry from their vineyard since this plant can harbor vectors of Xylella fastidiosa, such as blue-green sharpshooter (Graphocephala atropunctata). In this situation coyote brush could still provide Anagrus overwintering habitat while the use of blackberry remains confined to areas where Pierce’s disease is not a major threat or concern. While this study demonstrated that summer flowering cover crops do not enhance biological control of leafhoppers, vineyard cover crops are still highly recommended for soil quality maintenance. Winter-spring cover crops typically consist of blends of legumes and grasses (e.g., bell beans, clover, vetch, barley, oats and fescue), which can help control erosion, improve water penetration, reduce compaction and restore soil fertility. Spring-summer cover crops usually consist of low-growing legumes (strawberry clover and white clover) and grasses (sheep fescue and perennial ryegrass), which can help control dust, reduce nutrient run-off and moderate overly vigorous vines. This last point can have implications for leafhopper control, as previous studies have demonstrated that leafhoppers prefer overly vigorous vines, although moderation of vine vigor can be achieved much more economically by adjusting irrigation regimes, soil amendments and pruning practices. Clearly there is not a “one size fits all” approach when it comes to the use of habitat diversification in vineyards, but in some instances it can be an effective way to enhance vineyard aesthetics, promote biodiversity conservation and/or improve crop production. WBM Additional Resources on Vineyard Cover Crops and Hedgerows: Ingels, C.A., R.L. Bugg, G.T. McGourty and L.P. Christensen. 1998 “Cover Cropping in Vineyards: A Grower’s Handbook” University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Publication 3338. McGourty, G., J. Nosera, S. Tylicki and S. Toth. 2008 “Self-reseeding annual legumes evaluated as cover crops for untilled vineyards” California Agriculture 62(4): 191-194 https://doi.org/10.3733/ca.v062n04p191. UC Cooperative Extension Hedgerow Resource Listing: http://ccpestmanagement. ucanr.edu/Hedgerows/. Long, R.F. and J.H. Anderson. 2010 “Establishing Hedgerows on Farms in California” University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Publication 8390, Oakland, CA. Earnshaw, S. 2004 “Hedgerows and Farmscaping for California Agriculture: A Resource Guide for Farmers” 2nd Edition. CAFF (Community Alliance with Family Farmers) http://www.caff.org/. Dufour, R. 2000 “Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control” ATTRA (Appropriate Technology Transfer for Rural Areas), National Center for Appropriate Technology, Fayetteville, AR. http://www.attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/ farmscape.html.

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Behind the Scenes

with Chuck House Lance Cutler

Lance Cutler has been a working winemaker in Sonoma Valley for 40 years. He has been a contributing editor for Wine Business Monthly for 15 years. His unique perspective on winemaking has led to our Industry Roundtable series and our Varietal Focus series. Lance is also the author of five Jake Lorenzo books and The Tequila Lover’s Guide to Mexico.

making consistently excellent wine is a difficult task. To that end we seek out the finest vineyards, practice techniques best suited to our desired styles and use oak from our favorite coopers. After years of production, sales and reviews, we may develop a reputation for a certain style and quality. All that work, effort and success are captured in and represented by our label. A winery label embodies everything we do to make great wine. It comes to represent the winery itself. We put it on our shirts, our stationery and our websites. Customers look for our labels on the shelves and take pleasure when a waiter presents a bottle with our label on the table in front of them. Developing the right label is a complicated process, and all of us have gone through it. Charles “Chuck” House is simply the best label designer in the business. He is also the most fun to work with. For more than 40 years, Chuck House has created some of the most iconic labels in the wine industry: Frog’s Leap, Viader, Peter Michael, Paul Hobbs, Marcassin, Turley, Ornellia, Masseto, Tenuta di Biserno, Etude, Honig, Rochioli, Spottswoode and most of Bonny Doon. He has no business card and no website, but still people seek him out. That’s the way he likes it. W E A L L K NOW T H AT

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Following His Interests Chuck House grew up in the Midwest. He went to Justin Wall College, a residential college within Michigan State University, and graduated with a degree in anthropology. He never had formal art training, but he developed an interest in art. He remembers thinking to himself that it is not a matter of what you are trained to do in life because it is more important to go where your greatest interest lies. Little artifacts have always interested Chuck, perhaps due to his anthropological studies. He finds trinkets and packages humorous yet profound in their ability to unlock secrets about people’s lives. He found himself less interested in famous artists and the classical techniques of art and more interested in disposable art: art that is a part of its time and its culture that then goes out of fashion. It seemed to Chuck that this disposable art provided a greater key to the people and the times. He found himself getting fascinated by packaging. When he and his wife Tracy moved to California, Chuck had vague thoughts about going into some sort of commercial applied art. He started creating sandblasted and painted signs for businesses. He fabricated a lot of wood signs, trying to make them three-dimensional. He was happy with the signs; but since he wasn’t a skilled craftsman, he would lay awake at night, worrying that his signs might fall and kill somebody. Eventually, he decided that the printed piece was more what he was interested in and what he did best. “My dream was to affect the mainstream of graphic design,” he admitted. “I wanted something that would be seen in a lot of places and get out there to more people than would pass through a single spot.”

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Behind the Scenes with Chuck House

At this time, he worked in the mail room for his brother-in-law who owned Vintage Image. They needed an extra person to do simple layout for a rush job on a catalogue coming out for Christmas. Chuck volunteered and taught himself as he went along. He took an extension program in printing at the Santa Rosa Junior College to learn how to use a printing press. He was just trying to be ready when the opportunity came to work at what he hoped to do as a career. His wife was working as a nurse, and he was managing the apartment complex they lived in, so they were able to make ends meet while he did his design work part-time. He submitted a portfolio for Colonna and Farrell Design Studio, which offered part-time work. He was willing to work cheaply, often on speculation, under the assumption he would eventually start getting things into print. Over time, his design work improved, and he started getting paid regularly. “I liked being able to earn money by cutting up little bits of paper and putting paint on paper and fooling around with type,” said Chuck. “I’ve always been interested in typography and the design of letter forms. To be able to juggle these little design elements in front of me was a very playful activity, and I was getting paid for it. I also felt like I could be affecting the course of design history.”

The Wine Industry Phone Tree Chuck found that a lot of things were the same about every wine project, but to create a personality for a wine package was a matter of finding something unique about the approach. It could be any seemingly unrelated clue in the customer’s history, their past, their heritage, or their taste in art or music. Any of these things could provide the spark to give a project life. His goal was to provide the client with something a lot better than they envisioned. He liked the problem-solving function: Chuck House as Sherlock Holmes, collecting tidbits that turned out to be the key to the whole mystery. After a while, it became clear to clients at Colonna and Farrell that somebody other than whom they were talking to was doing the actual design work. People began to approach Chuck directly. He realized it was very difficult to interpret a client’s needs if you hadn’t spoken directly with the client. That formed the cornerstone of his philosophy when he started working for himself. He met people in the wine industry, one of whom introduced him to the owners of Frog’s Leap. “I was fortunate with the Frog’s Leap project,” Chuck explained. “It was the first real job I had done completely from the beginning with my own sense of art direction. It was the first time I did something that wasn’t anything like what they told me. It was the first time I trusted my own design sense, realizing that if I thought it was good enough, then it probably was good enough.”

70 November 2020 WBM

He did the Frog’s Leap label, and partly because it was a bold graphic and reproduced well in black and white, the New York Times printed a story about it as a feature article. A few months later, Chuck got a call from the long-distance operator, asking him to hold for the Marquese. It was Lodovico Antinori. He had seen the Times article and asked Chuck to work on a family project. That was a clue to Chuck that if he did good work, then the work would go out and be his sales rep. He did a lot of work with Lodovico for Antinori. Then they worked together at Ornellia, Masseto and, most recently, for Tenuta di Biserno, once again in partnership with Antinori. Randall Grahm contacted him with this crazy idea about a cigar-shaped spaceship hovering above a vineyard, so they created Le Cigare Volant, which expanded into all sorts of things. Randall Grahm said, “Working with Chuck has been a true collaborative process. We can’t even remember who originated the ideas or how they evolved. It just went back and forth like a ping pong match. He has given me so many gifts over the years. He taught me to see things in different ways, and whenever I spend time with him, I learn something new.” Most of Chuck’s career went through the winemakers. At the release party for Frog’s Leap, Chuck met Tony Soter. Soter was starting a brand named Etude. They did that. Then Soter became a consultant at Spottswoode, and they worked together on that project. He introduced Chuck to Delia Viader. Then he took him to meet the people at Morgan. From there they went to Araujo at Eisle Vineyards. Helen Turley heard of him through her brother Larry because he was a partner at Frog’s Leap. Chuck worked with Helen on all her projects. He’s done every one of her labels: Marcassin, Martinelli, Pahlmeyer, Bryant Family and Turley. Helen consulted for Peter Michael Winery. There were beautiful orange poppies everywhere. There was an English hunting quality because Peter was English and had been knighted, so Chuck did a drawing that combined the poppy with an English hunting horn to make the label. Peter Kay, director of sales for Peter Michael, has worked with Chuck on several projects. “It is always an interesting process,” he said. “We’ll talk for an hour. He gleans an understanding of the project; then he goes away and works on it. He returns with a dizzying array of options that we will narrow down until we get to the final design. It is a highly idiosyncratic process. When he presents the initial design concepts, it is sort of the Chuck House brain dump, and you can almost see the workings of his mind in the display of what he is putting out.”

When Helen left Peter Michael, Mark Aubert took over as winemaker. Chuck did his labels. Then Luc Morlet took over, and he’s done all his labels. He’s made labels with Paul Hobbs for wines from five different countries, and Chuck still works with Sir Peter on various projects. “I’m proud of the fact that most of the people I’ve worked with over the years are still coming back to me when they need help. Sometimes it is so enjoyable for them: they come to me even when they don’t need help. It’s fun and energetic for people to see their name on a bottle of wine and to be part of that creative process, which is something that people often don’t get in their daily lives. I’m lucky because that is my daily life.”

Style and Insight

that you didn’t anticipate. It is not about going online and Googling your subject—though it can be helpful, and he gets lots of stuff online and from books—but it is that physical action that the universe rewards. It sounds crazy, but Chuck House is a true believer. If you go to a vineyard and walk through that vineyard, talking to the people who make that wine, then you gain insight. Winemakers like working with their hands. They like getting out in nature, and that is where Chuck finds his connection with the world of wine: in the field and in the vineyard, walking around and picking things up. His passion has always been picking up things that other people didn’t notice and seeing the beauty of this very ephemeral nature. His background is in cultural anthropology, but he says he was a terrible student. “I’m not good at any group activity. I think my total lack of social DNA lets me see the world of wine from that outside perspective. That perspective of ignorance, where you show up but you are not on the same page, so you see things differently. I think that allows me to eavesdrop on this intimate conversation that you have with wine and to find things there that other people overlook.” A seminal moment occurred for Chuck in Mendoza, Argentina. He saw these tin roofs on shacks being held down with anchors of rocks, gorgeous colored rocks. There was slate blue, brick red, greens, yellows and a whole rainbow of colors, and no one noticed because they lived there. His hosts had prepared a parrilla, and there were a lot of little kids around, so Chuck asked them to gather a rainbow of colored rocks. Later, he was giving a lecture on label design. He set those rocks on a table and told them, “You have it all here: it is just a matter of time and creating your own rhythm.” He knew nothing of the place, but he was immediately struck by the beauty of those colored rocks. He took the rocks and used those colors in all the work he did there. Before that, he had done a Chilean label and another South American project, but they were lifeless. They just sat there. He did the research and tried to use native materials, but it wasn’t until he had actually gone there and taken a step out of his comfort zone to enter this world that he was rewarded with the gift of those colors.

Chuck House grew up in a very modest environment in the Midwest. There was no luxury in his life. They were not poor, but they were very bland. Chuck is uncomfortable with luxury because he’s never experienced it personally, but he knows how to look for it. When he first designed labels back in the Frog’s Leap days, he was purchasing books of advertising art from the 1920s, Abitare architectural magazines, Marie Claire French fashion magazines and Australian Vogue. He always pulled elements from really expensive branding in the world of fashion and fragrance. He’d look at automobiles, watches, luxury yachts. Seeing these elements and then translating them into a similar sense of luxury and style has always been Chuck’s niche. The way to make a brand look expensive is to make it look unobtainable. If you can’t get it, then everyone wants it. He likes to play hard to get. He likes it to be kind of inaccessible or remote. Quietly off to the side, that’s where he likes to be. It has become his source of energy, creating something where that sense of quiet is a strength, not a weakness. He can bring that outside perspective to his work and use it to create a mystery, a sense of wanting to know more. Chuck believes that if you take a physical step toward your goal, then Chuck House creates color schemes based on vineyards, rocks, something will come back wineries or even found objects on the property.

WBM November 2020 71

Behind the Scenes with Chuck House

He recently worked on the Bundschu Family project. He needed to remember to go out into nature so that nature would reward him for making that journey. Moon Mountain was a very interesting place, and he had never been there before, so it was a journey, kind of an adventure, and a detective process as well. It was as if the vineyard were a mystery and he was looking for clues that others might have neglected. Up on that mountain workmen were digging, and he could hear the rocks. The shovels sounded like a blacksmith pounding an anvil. It was elemental. Phil Coturri was up there, and they walked around with the Bundschus. Chuck compared the planning that went into that vineyard to a Swiss watch. There were the different cover crops, the directed drip system and the nitrogen pickup in the vines. These are all things he knew nothing about. He grabbed a lot of stuff: great little flowers, cool pieces of vine, things you wouldn’t notice unless you were there, looking for evidence to solve this mystery. Chuck had a photographer illuminate all these bits and pieces he had collected on Moon Mountain because a work of nature photographed beautifully has a spirit and energy of its own. There was a clipped piece of vine that had been recently pruned. It was a small piece, but the form almost looked like a serpent. There was something animalistic or organic about it. Chuck couldn’t describe it; but when he took it up off the ground and put it into a different context, it related to the soil in a way he felt was very appropriate for the wine. This piece of vine took you right to the heart of that location in a very simple way. Simple and direct. Then Chuck went through the Bundschu archives, their vast history of more than 150 years. He found an old wooden picking crate, with the Bundschu name burned into the side of the box. He used that typeface on the label. So, he had the piece of vine from that harvest in this very special location. Then those mature grapes were carried to the winery in those boxes for the winemaking process. These are all things you don’t see in the glass, but they are part of what makes it unique and part of the story you want to tell. It took the 150-year-old winery heritage, the million-year tale of the soil and land and brought them together in an extremely simple way. 72 November 2020 WBM

“I left out all kinds of information because the fewer things you say, the more impact they have,” Chuck insisted. “If you think of labels in the sense of being a spoken voice, then you need to listen to the wine itself. When you have a bottle of wine on the table, it is part of the conversation. It represents another voice at the table. I like to think of the wine package at the table as being a part of the conversation, and it functions best if it is not shouting at you, trying to make a sales presentation. In the store, it has to shout at you. It is like a carnival barker with all these different sideshows yelling at you. You don’t want to have dinner with that.” Chuck thinks sensible marketing should be about something you want to share. You bring it, and it elevates the conversation. You are still being yourself, but you are being the better version of yourself. We can sit here together and have this esthetic experience and enjoy it, share it and repeat it. It is like a vine. You must prune it to make it sustainable. A lot of the packaging he sees would be like vines going nuts. Chuck prefers a really pruned kind of label experience, so it seems like something you’d want to do again. When you look at a label, you should get the sense that somebody was thinking about this. It leaves enough for you to bring to the experience so that you want to do it again. That is the dynamic he wants to create. Follow the lead of the wine. Follow the winemaking process. As a consumer, you might not be able to isolate exactly what you are tasting, but you know when someone is doing it right. You know you are in good hands. That’s what Chuck would like to have communicated in his labels.

The Design Process When Chuck meets with a client, he shows a lot of physically constructed presentation labels, usually 12 or 16 because those are his magic numbers. Of course, 12 is the magic number of the months, the astrological symbols. There are 12 bottles in a case. His birthday is 12/16, which is also the birthday he shares with Beethoven and Jane Austin, and they are both “big

picture” people. She didn’t write a lot of books, but she wrote a lot of words. Beethoven, of course, you couldn’t stop him. Chuck thinks of this as being a big thing. Don’t limit yourself. Just be generous and give a lot. “You really can’t have more than 12 good ideas,” he admitted. “I mean, we throw away literally hundreds of labels before we get something that actually makes the presentation. The wastebasket is my biggest tool because we just throw stuff away.” He feels everybody should have the chance to reject a very conservative approach and to also reject a very adventurous approach. He takes pride in always doing something he is told not to do. If they hate green, then they definitely are seeing a green label. “I have to be willing to stand behind anything I show, so I never show anything that I’m hoping they don’t pick. I am trying to solve the most problems with these labels. It must be marketable and something they can share with their peers and gain respect. Generosity is the key. You have to give something to everyone. It is not about holding back and parceling out your energy. Mainly, we’re going to give the customer something.” There is no limit to the kind of creativity that the computer has given to graphic design and then the printing technology. These days it is not uncommon for the entire design process to occur digitally, so the only thing people ever see is on screen. According to Chuck, that is exactly the wrong way to design a wine package because it is designed to be in the center of a group of people, all of whom are seeing it from a different angle. They will be sharing it in different configurations in three-dimensional, 360-degree situations. Once a design has been chosen, Chuck talks with the press operators and the color mix guys to explain what he has in mind. That’s why he brings his handmade label creations so they have a physical representation of what he wants. He affixes labels on bottles and takes them outside to examine them in natural light. He’s always there when the label is printed, when it’s foiled and to oversee the color separation because each possible area for foul-ups is also a possible area for improvement.

Chuck has worked with Stephan Finke at CCL Label Sonoma for decades. According to Finke, “Chuck is clearly one of the most creative artists I have ever worked with. He’s very emotional about his ideas and how to get the best results. One time he showed up with dirt in his hand from the vineyard and had me match the color of the dirt to give the label the correct feel of terroir.” Finke said that Chuck has the finest artistic sense of typography. “That warms any printer’s heart,” he added. “He is the most demanding designer we work with. He spends many hours in our press room to refine the details he wants. If it doesn’t feel right for him, he will keep moving and adjusting colors and give it just the right touch to give the label that perfect feel once it is on the bottle.” Chuck feels that a good wine package speaks for itself. They are little personalities. The personality of the wine package extends to the sculptural form, the fact that it has a cap and shoulders and a neck, and it’s this little anthropomorphic figurine. Seeing a label is like meeting a person for the first time. You don’t have to know this person to know that they will be interesting. You can just tell. “I am interested in this idea of history and immortality, the symbolism of wine packaging and the sculptural form of it,” Chuck summed it up. “The fact that in wine packaging you have the cork and the paper, which are wood. You have the foil, which is metal. You have the glass bottle. Then the wine is a combination of earth and sun and rain. You have a focus for a microcosm of the world, and the fact that those elements all come together in the wine package can make it a very magical thing.” A magical thing, indeed, and to this author a great deal of that magic derives from the unique way that Chuck House views the world, the wine business and label design. WBM

WBM November 2020 73

sales & marketing

2020 PACK Design Awards in its seven year history, the PACK Design Awards opened up voting for it’s People’s Choice Award to all members of the trade—not just those in attendance at the annual PACK conference and tradeshow. Also new in 2020: A People’s Choice Award was given in each of the seven packaging categories. More than 600 votes were cast in the Classic, Can, Alternative, Luxury, Redesign, Series and Assorted Set categories. Each year Wine Business Monthly hosts the annual wine industry competition to cultivate fresh ideas and perspective about new packaging designs. Year after year, the PACK Design Awards have helped build a sense of community around packaging design advocates and recognize those companies that are pushing the envelope when it comes to new takes on the classics and alternative formats. The introduction of two new categories this year—Best Can Design and Best Assorted Set Design—reflect current trends among consumer purchasing habits, which continue to morph due to the global health crisis. Now more than ever, wineries and brands need to rethink the way they reach FOR THE FIRST TIME

their customers, with packaging at the forefront. The PACK Design Awards aim to serve as a platform to celebrate those who are already thinking outside the bottle, and to create an environment of shared creativity among industry peers that will stimulate continued success in sales and market strategies.

About the Competition This was the seventh annual Packaging Design Awards competition celebrating packaging among domestic wineries. The annual competition is open to all wines made with grapes from North American appellations, and wineries must submit currently available products for the judging. Experienced, independent judges that represent wine retail, wine writing and wine education came together to determine the winners in seven categories—classic, luxury, redesign, alternative format, can, series and assorted set—as well as the Best in Show, which was selected from the first-place winners in each category. Seven People’s Choice Awards were given, one for each category, as judged by members of the trade.

People’s Choice Classic

Can

Alternative

Pressley Vineyards

O’Neill Vintners & Distillers,

Speckle Rock Vineyards, LYNAGE

Rosé

74 November 2020 WBM

Day Owl

Luxury

Redesign

St. Supéry Estate, O’Neill Vintners & RU3 Distillers, Day Owl Rosé

Series

Assorted Set

Rabble Wine Company

Fetzer Vineyards, “Mapping the Road” Sustainability Set

People’s Choice People’s

Choice

Classic

LACE

FROM THE WINERY: Pressley Vineyards Rosé

tells the love story from the point of view of co-owner Charlie Hamilton, while describing the Rosés characteristics, Charlie tells the aspects of what he loves most about his wife and co-owner Brittany. The Pressley script on the front of the label comes from a letter dating back to 1860, where Charlie’s relative signs his last name Pressley. We used his exact script in our design. Our gold screw cap makes the design sleek and youthful, speaking to our Millennial roots.

DESIGNER: Honey Agency BOTTLE VENDOR: Encore Glass CAPSULE VENDOR:

Scott Laboratories Inc.

ice

Cho le’s

Peo

oice

FROM THE WINERY: We wanted the packaging

to be a reflection of the wine itself, which embodies a sense of occasion and modern elegance. We took classic elements like wax and used them in an alternative way. All packaging was done by hand, reflecting the hand-craftedness of the wine itself. The VinoSeal allows for elegant storage to enjoy for many future occasions.

CLOSURE VENDOR:

Scott Laboratories Inc. LABEL PRINTER:

DESIGNER: Tatjana Perrin BOTTLE VENDOR: Saverglass Inc. CLOSURE VENDOR: Vinolok

LABEL PRINTER:

Trysk Print Solutions

All American Label

Can New Category!

le’s Peop

e Choic

Luxury

LACE

1st P

O’Neill Vintners & Distillers, Day Owl $17.99

St. Supéry Estate, RU3

FROM THE WINERY: Packaging within the Rosé

FROM THE WINERY: RU3 is a wine that

$225

sector leans heavily on whites and pinks to accent the color of the product itself, but we wanted to disrupt that trend. Using a navyblue as the background color, and adopting a new logo that focuses on the eyes of the owl, we have introduced a 250 ml 4-pack that differentiates our brand and catches the consumer’s eye.

reflects its site: St. Supéry’s Rutherford Estate Vineyard. The intricate and accurate embossed die-cut leaves represent three varieties in the blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot—with the dominance of each reflected by leaf size. The recycled glass was thoughtfully chosen to be simultaneously elegant and bold like the wine itself. It is sealed with a copper medallion that can serve as a lasting memento and wrapped in glassine paper and wax seal to signal attention to detail at every step.

CO N T R I B U TO R S DESIGNER: Kindred CAN VENDOR: CanSource LABEL VENDOR: CanSource

OTHER VENDOR:

Pacific Southwest Container CON TRIBUTORS

DESIGNER: Jeanne Greco BOTTLE VENDOR: Encore Glass CAPSULE VENDOR: APHOLOS

Metal Labels & Closures 76 November 2020 WBM

e’s Ch

CON TRIBUTORS

CO N T R I B U TO R S

Peopl

Speckle Rock Vineyards, LYNAGE $50

Pressley Vineyards, Rosé $18

E LAC P d

Alternative

1st P

CLOSURE VENDOR:

Cork Supply USA LABEL PRINTER: Multi-Color Corp. Wine & Spirits

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People’s Choice People’s

Choice

Redesign

hoice

’s C eople

Assorted Set New Category!

O’Neill Vintners & Distillers, Day Owl Rosé $14.99

Fetzer Vineyards, “Mapping the Road” Sustainability Set

FROM THE WINERY: Packaging within the Rose

FROM THE WINERY: Fetzer Vineyards promoted

sector leans heavily on whites and pinks to accent the color of the product itself, but we wanted to disrupt that trend. Using a navyblue as the background color, and adopting a new logo that focuses on the eyes of the owl, we have introduced a 750 ml, uniquelyshaped-bottle that differentiates our brand and catches the consumer’s eye..

its corporate conscious report, “Mapping the Road,” with a custom mailer containing the report and a commemorative bottle of Fetzer Merlot. The report, designed by Fetzer Vineyards InHouse Creative, received a 2019 American Graphic Design Award. The Merlot label echoes the cover of the report, and the box features a topographical map element derived from an actual map of Hopland. The box and all packing materials were crafted from recycled materials by EcoEnclose.

CO N T R I B U TO R S DESIGNER: Kindred BOTTLE VENDOR: Encore Glass CLOSURE VENDOR:

LABEL PRINTER: Multi-Color Corp.

Wine & Spirits

CON TRIBUTORS

Vinventions USA

People’s

Choice

DESIGNER: Tatjana Perrin BOTTLE VENDOR: Saverglass Inc. CLOSURE VENDOR: Vinolok

Series

ACE

$24.99 - $26.99 FROM THE WINERY: Rabble is “a revolutionary

force, mobilized by a desire for change”— an identity that is vividly reflected in our packaging. Our labels depict historical woodblock renditions of supernatural phenomena. The experience is highly visual and tactile as you hold the bottle in your hands. And now, through our trailblazing augmented reality app, you can watch these fantastical scenes come to life in a way that deepens your connection to the wine within. These AR-powered labels have generated exposure, excitement and engagement, helping propel the Rabble brand to year-onyear growth of +20%.

CO N T R I B U TO R S

Capsule Inc.

78 November 2020 WBM

Trysk Print Solutions

3rd PL

Rabble Wine Company

DESIGNER: Makers and Allies BOTTLE VENDOR: Encore Glass CAPSULE VENDOR: Lafitte Cork &

LABEL PRINTER:

CLOSURE VENDOR: G3 Enterprises LABEL PRINTER: Multi-Color Corp.

Wine & Spirits

Packaging Awards | 2020 entries To see all the entries and find out more about their package design, visit

www.winebusiness.com/event/pack/?go=awards

To find out more about the CONTRIBUTORS, visit the Exhibit Hall www.winebusiness.com/event/pack/?go=exhibitors

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Retail Sales Analysis

Cabernet Leads Wine Sales 15 Percent Higher in August Wines Vines Analytics

Produced by Wines Vines Analytics, the Wine Analytics Report is the industry’s leading source of market insights, objective analysis and data.

2019

Trended Off-Premise Value

2020

$Million 1,600

Sales Value Rises 15 Percent in August Off-premise table wine sales rose 15 percent versus a year ago in the four weeks ended Aug. 8, Nielsen scan data showed, totaling nearly $1.2 billion. While growth showed signs of decelerating versus recent periods, sales in the latest 52 weeks increased 10 percent versus last year to $16.3 billion.

1,400 1,200 1,000 800

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

July

Aug

Off-premise table wine volume increased 9 percent versus a year ago in the four weeks ended Aug. 8, totaling 12.8 million 9L cases. The latest 52 weeks saw case volumes rise 6 percent to 174.3 million 9L cases.

Oct

Nov

2019

Trended Off-Premise Volume

Sales Volume Up 9 Percent in August

Sep

Dec

2020

9L Cases (millions) 16 14 12 10 8 Jan

Off-Premise Buying Favors Red Wines With wineries now in the midst of the key October-November-December (OND) sales season, a glance at recent sales trends indicates what consumers might be stocking up on as the weather turns cooler. During the initial weeks of the pandemic, many wineries reported red wines being in demand, and that trend continued during the four weeks ended Aug. 8. Of the 15 types of table wine Nielsen details in its monthly reports, Sauvignon Blanc posted the greatest growth this summer, a season in which consumers typically seek lighter, refreshing wines. The varietal saw sales value through off-Nielsen premise outlets rise 25 percent. The only other two segments to log growth greater than 20 percent were red blends at 21 percent and Pinot Noir at 20 percent. Depending on the style, the two can pair well with summer barbeques. The 52-week trends look different. Rosé, which saw 13 percent growth in the latest four weeks versus a year ago, leads the way with growth of 19 percent, on par with Sauvignon Blanc. Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are tied at 12 percent, while red blends follow at 11 percent. In terms of change in absolute dollars, growth in the table wine category over the last 52 weeks has been led by Cabernet Sauvignon, which added more than $337 million in sales versus the previous year. With sales exceeding $3 billion in the latest 52 weeks, Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular wine sold through Nielsen off-premise channels. The pandemic has solidified that position. WBM

80 November 2020 WBM

Feb

SOURCE: Nielsen.

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

July

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Latest 4 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

Off-Premise Value Growth Variety Rosé Sauvignon Blanc Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir Red blends Pinot Gris 0% SOURCE: Nielsen Latest 52 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

10%

15%

20%

25%

Percent change

Methodology Sourced from Nielsen, these figures represent off-premise retailer wine sales to the consumer aggregated across a variety of channels nationwide, including grocery, drug, mass merchandisers, convenience, dollar, military, as well as a selection of warehouse clubs, and liquor channel geographies and liquor channel retail chains. Nielsen figures are updated and released every four weeks.

Nielsen Table Wine Category Segments

MARK ET:

Total US xAOC+Conv+Military+Liquor Plus

Dollar Value

TOTAL TABLE WINE

TYPES

DOMESTIC

IMPORTED

PRICE TIERS BY CONTAINERS

BOX $0-$3.99 $4+ Total Table Wine Glass Value Glass $0-$3.99

VARIETALS

9L Equivalent Volume

9L Equivalent Volume % Chg YA

Avg Equivalent Price Per 750ML

Latest 52 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

Latest 4 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

Latest 52 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

Latest 4 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

Latest 52 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

Latest 4 Wks - W/E 08/08/20

Latest 52 Wks W/E 08/08/20

Latest 4 Wks W/E 08/08/20

1,216,355,477

9.8

14.9

174,292,917

12,774,406

6.2

9.1

7.79

7.93

126,126,332

15.3

15.0

38,315,004

2,886,203

10.5

11.0

3.60

3.64

636,547,954

47,027,281

5.6

21,481,390

1,580,029

3.1

3.4

2.47

2.48

1,017,280,307

79,098,789

22.4

21.4

16,833,609

1,306,169

21.8

21.9

5.04

5.05

14,323,354,104

1,062,450,229

9.2

15.1

132,309,344

9,580,840

5.2

8.8

9.02

9.24

Latest 52 Wks W/E 08/08/20

Latest 4 Wks W/E 08/08/20

16,297,247,525 1,653,828,523

631,544,242

43,688,633

-1.7

-4.1

15,752,132

1,082,484

-1.6

-4.0

3.34

3.36

3,352,751,762

239,746,034

2.1

3.4

50,237,499

3,562,119

1.2

2.6

5.56

5.61

Premium Glass $8-$10.99

3,508,845,569

253,038,010

5.6

9.8

30,668,633

2,196,485

4.7

9.2

9.53

9.60

Super Premium Glass $11-$14.99

3,459,066,971

266,343,469

16.0

22.7

22,763,274

1,748,660

15.2

22.3

12.66

12.69

Ultra Premium Glass $15-$19.99

1,677,558,063

127,027,321

16.1

25.5

8,179,435

617,856

16.1

25.9

17.09

17.13

Luxury Glass $20-$24.99

699,174,533

58,080,319

20.4

35.2

2,649,955

218,726

18.7

33.9

21.98

22.12

Super Luxury Glass $25+

986,993,866

73,709,445

15.5

37.3

2,010,464

150,546

12.7

34.1

40.90

40.79

IMPORTED

4,420,660,820

346,549,868

12.0

18.9

44,359,975

3,373,014

8.5

13.6

8.30

8.56

ITALY

1,438,224,873

107,858,934

17.1

28.9

12,052,822

899,622

13.7

23.8

9.94

9.99

AUSTRALIA

786,766,452

55,002,641

5.3

7.0

12,672,493

901,520

4.1

5.7

5.17

5.08

FRANCE

584,802,320

56,568,280

13.8

16.4

3,424,217

323,049

8.8

10.8

14.23

14.59

CHILE

285,627,600

21,790,589

9.1

19.8

4,299,404

330,765

10.4

19.2

5.54

5.49

SPAIN

185,111,025

13,388,064

6.8

14.9

2,255,107

162,537

5.3

9.1

6.84

6.86

85,825,352

6,459,382

7.9

21.4

779,232

56,353

3.5

13.9

9.18

9.55

NEW ZEALAND

593,592,824

53,350,154

19.4

24.4

4,188,517

373,063

17.5

21.4

11.81

11.91

ARGENTINA

353,784,600

23,124,290

2.8

3.6

3,778,369

247,199

1.6

-0.4

7.80

7.79

SOUTH AFRICA

26,838,456

2,088,930

2.0

14.4

222,440

16,849

1.0

9.5

10.05

10.33

PORTUGAL

47,670,785

4,681,664

6.8

21.9

474,248

47,562

1.8

20.5

8.37

8.20

DOMESTIC

11,876,586,705

869,805,609

9.0

13.3

129,932,942

9,401,392

5.5

7.5

7.62

7.71

CALIFORNIA

10,667,111,104

779,200,727

9.2

13.4

120,382,462

8,698,718

5.5

7.4

7.38

7.46

WASHINGTON

668,779,927

49,769,260

4.2

9.5

5,447,851

404,954

3.3

8.1

10.23

10.24

OREGON

275,315,349

21,691,202

17.2

21.5

1,392,854

110,062

17.1

18.5

16.47

16.42

TEXAS

35,593,965

2,545,364

0.5

0.9

402,727

28,453

-4.6

-3.2

7.36

7.45

NEW YORK

45,422,413

3,626,308

20.7

26.1

523,874

35,604

7.2

13.8

7.23

8.49

NORTH CAROLINA

44,198,658

3,151,541

6.6

12.5

458,196

32,404

5.9

11.3

8.04

8.10

INDIANA

25,774,667

1,769,230

8.0

11.5

279,313

19,038

6.2

8.1

7.69

7.74

MICHIGAN

26,513,809

1,809,296

10.2

8.8

273,814

17,950

6.3

6.9

8.07

8.40

RED

8,422,073,162

565,730,147

9.7

17.0

80,061,907

5,344,551

6.1

10.6

8.76

8.82

WHITE

6,592,357,477

532,182,973

9.8

13.8

76,548,217

5,991,600

6.7

8.9

7.18

7.40

PINK

1,280,862,930

118,434,351

10.9

9.8

17,665,059

1,438,132

4.9

4.5

6.04

6.86

TOTAL CHARDONNAY

2,774,625,189

218,935,273

6.7

10.2

31,632,977

2,433,115

3.8

5.7

7.31

7.50

TOTAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON

3,085,442,631

208,041,348

12.3

18.0

27,570,200

1,849,622

9.1

11.9

9.32

9.37

TOTAL PINOT GRIGIO/PINOT GRIS

1,497,257,408

120,658,374

10.3

11.3

19,147,108

1,516,560

9.1

9.2

6.52

6.63

TOTAL PINOT NOIR

1,269,060,999

86,825,420

12.1

20.0

9,342,990

627,058

8.6

14.9

11.32

11.54

GERMANY

737,462,314

48,733,406

-1.1

3.4

9,918,452

657,209

-3.2

0.1

6.20

6.18

TOTAL SAUV BLANC/FUME

1,183,344,109

105,286,942

19.1

24.7

10,209,259

890,578

17.7

21.8

9.66

9.85

TOTAL MUSCAT/MOSCATO

720,126,085

51,104,751

9.8

12.9

10,573,279

739,953

7.0

8.6

5.68

5.76

TOTAL WHITE ZINFANDEL

281,442,522

20,155,456

-2.4

-1.4

5,581,921

397,356

-3.2

-1.8

4.20

4.23

TOTAL MALBEC

275,850,868

17,731,131

4.3

9.2

2,542,710

164,181

3.7

6.7

9.04

9.00

TOTAL RIESLING

258,995,259

19,232,416

6.1

13.7

2,721,435

197,421

2.3

9.1

7.93

8.12

TOTAL ZINFANDEL

238,140,298

15,996,989

3.6

12.6

1,651,150

108,205

2.2

9.1

12.02

12.32

TOTAL SHIRAZ/SYRAH

151,733,986

9,767,268

-1.7

1.9

1,645,822

104,953

-3.7

-1.3

7.68

7.75

WHITE BLENDS (ex. 4/5L)

258,498,624

21,391,991

9.4

16.0

3,015,574

234,444

6.8

7.14

7.60

2,166,050,532

144,511,445

11.5

21.2

19,147,052

1,265,099

9.1

15.4

9.43

9.52

682,142,555

75,344,132

19.3

13.4

5,652,561

578,750

16.8

9.7

10.05

10.85

11,830,520,015

881,550,135

10.3

16.9

89,838,069

6,539,734

6.6

10.7

10.97

11.23

2,202,701,447

159,164,974

5.1

7.4

37,027,164

2,649,013

3.3

5.6

4.96

5.01

61,186,711

4,251,251

-1.7

1.4

1,505,272

103,648

-6.0

-1.4

3.39

3.42

79,739,619

5,722,383

0.3

6.5

2,489,523

176,931

-1.9

3.6

2.67

2.70

103,088,656

7,941,997

-3.1

-1.7

1,216,808

91,946

-6.6

-6.0

7.06

7.20

RED BLENDS (ex. 4/5L + CHIANTI) ROSE BLEND 750ML GLASS SIZES

Week Ending August 8, 2020

Popular Glass $4-$7.99

TOTAL MERLOT

1.5L

187ML 375ML

28,705,661

2,511,205

36.4

58.9

108,625

9,220

38.3

49.4

22.04

22.71

1,125,729,900

86,647,913

20.5

19.2

19,703,397

1,504,933

18.9

18.2

4.76

4.80

35,700,629

2,795,398

2.1

2.8

514,324

39,935

-0.1

0.1

5.78

5.83

1.5L

28,517,502

1,661,310

-1.6

-22.4

548,742

33,186

-2.4

-19.5

4.33

4.17

842,944,160

65,137,789

25.9

26.7

15,876,529

1,219,655

23.4

24.4

4.42

4.45

528,095,702

39,478,091

5.6

6.8

18,611,534

1,381,262

2.9

4.2

2.37

2.38

TETRA

255,281,629

19,919,860

7.9

3.6

3,288,475

252,800

4.2

0.0

6.47

6.57

ex. 4/5L BOX SIZES

Dollar Value % Chg YA

PER I O D :

Source: Nielsen

WBM November 2020 81

technology & business

Opportunities Remain, but a Disrupted Market is Less Hospitable to New Brands Andrew Adams Andrew Adams is the editor of the Wine Analytics Report and was a writer and editor at Wines & Vines magazine from 2011 to 2018. Adams grew up in the city of Sonoma, Calif. and graduated from the University of Oregon with a degree in journalism. While a reporter and editor for daily newspapers in Oregon and California for nearly a decade, Adams won awards for investigative and business reporting. In 2009, Adams left the newspaper industry for a harvest internship at Starmont Winery in Napa Valley. That internship led to a full-time position in the cellar and laboratory where Adams worked for three harvests before joining the staff at Wines & Vines.

retail shelves and wine lists will get shorter as a result of the pandemic and other major disruptions of the past year. Wine brand development has long been about standing out in a crowded market. Among a sea of thousands of wine SKUs, wineries used price, packaging, exclusive placements, aggressive marketing and engagement technology to capture the fragmented attention of consumers. The bulk wine market offered a ready inventory of quality product from the U.S. and around the world to support almost any kind of brand strategy. Retailers embraced the innovation to provide their customers something new while keeping pace with trends in wine type, origin or price. All that has changed. Consumers are spending less time in stores and sticking with what they know. The excess inventory from the 2018 harvest and much of what had been available via the bulk market has been tapped to offset losses from the western wildfires. While some cities and states are trying to cautiously reopen, the on-premise market remains significantly reduced and those restaurants that have been able to stay open are sitting on plenty of unsold inventory. The National Restaurant Association reported in September that one out of every six U.S. restaurants has closed—nearly 100,000 in total. According to market research firm bw166, the TTB approved more than 170,000 beverage alcohol products in the 12 months ended August and this was 0.4 percent less than in last year. By category, there 4.3 percent less wine products in the last 12 months and 16.2 percent less in the last three months. Speaking to the Wine Analytics Report in September, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates chief operating officer Dan Werth said the winery and its retail and distributor partners are taking a close look at their SKU portfolio. “I know our retailers and distributors have significantly cut their inventory base, which quite truthfully is probably good for the wine industry because we’ve had excessive SKUs in the supply chain network,” he said. FEWER BRANDS WILL LINE

82 November 2020 WBM

TTB Product Approvals 190,000

185,000

180,000

175,000

170,000 Oct 2019 SOURCE: bw166,

Jan 2020

Apr 2020

Jul 2020

all figures rolling 12 months

The Hess Collection Winery CEO and owner Tim Persson also said in an interview with the report that the company was slowing the development and release of new brands. “Where we were either incubating items or planning to introduce new items, the effect of the pandemic is probably to slow down the progression or the development cycle of those items, or it’s causing us to offset or delay the introduction of those items just because it’s not a healthy enough environment in which to do so,” he said.

Changes to Consumer Behavior

Fewer New Products in 2020 350

300 2020 New Products 250 2019 New Products 200

150

100

0 Jan

Feb

SOURCE: Gomberg,

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Fredrikson & Associates

Through September, there were 56 percent fewer new products listed in the Gomberg Fredrikson & Associates Price Service report in 2020 than in 2019.

Persson added he, just as the rest of the industry, are also waiting to see which changes in consumer behavior are temporary and which will stick for the long term. At this year’s online Central Coast Insights conference, Chris Shackelford, the owner and sommelier at Trelio Restaurant in Clovis, Calif., said he was reducing his inventory of 1,200 SKUs to just 300 while also reducing the average price. “We’re consolidating down into those areas, eliminating areas of the wine list,” he said, adding he expected most other restaurants with wine programs are doing the same. During the same conference, Phil Markert, director of liquor for Albertsons, Vons and Pavilions grocery store chains, said consumers have generally become less adventurous when it comes to selecting a wine. “There is definitely a movement toward, I call it, tried-and-true brands,” he said. Markert said new wines from the region in which a store is located are still doing well as well as luxury wines. “We still sell a tremendous amount of local wines, luxury wines, innovation—but it’d be a true statement to say, in most cases, consumers are moving to what they know.”

As consumers stick with what they know, they are also spending less time in stores. According to a Wine Market Council survey, 39 percent of “high frequency” wine consumers and 52 percent of other types of wine drinkers reported the biggest change to their retail shopping habits during the pandemic had been to spend less time in the store. The same survey also found the No. 1 challenge (40 percent of all consumers) in buying wine was having too many choices, followed by being unsure if they’ll like the wine (36 percent). Prior to the pandemic, consumers may have relied on the recommendations of an employee to help with a decision, but those interactions have become more shorter if they still happen at all. The WMC survey also found 17 percent of high frequency wine drinkers said they were relying more on in-store displays to help with their purchasing decision. Despite the challenges, wineries continue to launch new brands. On Sept. 1, Rodney Strong Wine Estates, which is based in Healdsburg, Calif. and produces more than 850,000 cases a year, launched the Knotty Vines brand. Targeted at older millennials and Gen X consumers, the brand includes all the top varietals and is priced in the off-premise sweet spot of $14.99. About two weeks after Rodney Strong’s announcement, Pine Ridge Vineyards, which produces around 140,000 cases in Napa Valley and is part of the Crimson Wine Group, announced it was extending its popular Chenin Blanc and Viognier blend (CB+V) with a non-vintage sparkling version that has an SRP of $18 and was set to hit the market Oct. 1. The addition is Pine Ridge’s first new label in 25 years. That release stands to benefit from the fact that American wine drinkers, despite no shortage of bad news, are still buying sparkling wine. According to Nielsen data, sales of all sparkling wine in the 52 weeks ended Aug. 8 were up 14.5 percent in value over the same period in 2019. Total sales came to more than $2 billion and volume was up 11 percent to nearly 13 million cases. Sparkling sales are also stronger at higher prices with wines priced between $15 and $19.99 growing by 19 percent to nearly $400 million. Even wines priced more than $100 are doing well in off-premise channels, growing 14.5 percent over last year to $48 million. Danny Brager is the former senior vice president of beverage alcohol and cannabis for Nielsen and said during the Wine Industrial Financial Symposium that the strong sparkling sales—seen for both imports and domestic wines—show that consumers are still buying. He said for people who have been working from home but can’t use their disposable income for travel, sporting events or other entertainment may now be splurging on wine from the grocery store. “They do have money to spend and people do want to celebrate, albeit in a different way,” he said. The opportunities are there, but wineries need to be even more strategic and focused on how they deploy new brands. “I think it’s never been more important to understand market performance and consumer shopping behavior and pinpoint; really set your sights, on what your opportunities are,” he said. “Be granular in terms of the geographies you look at and be granular in terms of the timelines you look at so you can quickly act on and react to local and recent demand signals. It’s pretty critical to be flexible and nimble for the twists and turns that no doubt lie ahead.”

WBM November 2020 83

Opportunities Remain, but a Disrupted Market is Less Hospitable to New Brands

RECLAIM

EOUT YO U R H I D

you r , sitt ing in yea rs ago Rem emb er adv ent ures eam ing of d tree fort …dr you rem aine . For hou rs, to be had the salt air s, top the tree lls nes tled in swe et sme the war m you ying min glin g with carr , tus and pine d. of euc alyp to be exp lore ant land s s awa y to dist r adv ent urou oug h you be can Tod ay, alth rea lity or rem ains , nd bou spir it ch If you ’re bea or e alon s gro und ing. ent , sha ring mom care to the hills e you tak en lls, we hav fam ily thri s the cen tral tha t emb odie e foun d of. A win e t, a par adis star its h. coa st from ven ture fort tho se who d, a to all of rd in han a surf boa the Whe the r it’s r or hiki ng ulde sho r you with sad dle on r hide out recl aim you hills ides , TRE E FORT.

TA S T I N G

NOTES

VIGNO 2019 SAU

TOWERING WI NES, DEEP RO OTS.

N BLANC

The verdant valleys and hills of northern Italy are beloved for their rich nuanced wines. Here, culture and wonderfully you will find la Torre Guinigi, rising over an distinctive holm oaks. ancient city, adorned Our family roots run with deep in this storied heritage with Guinigi land, and we honor wines. Like the oak trees that that symbolize streng it is our belief that each th, beaut y and renew al, new vintage will inspire a sense of awe in you.

: brig ht & crisp

and lime of gra pef ruit ity, Fres h aro mas te with brig ht acid pala h of herb s. oil. Clea n ors and a pinc citr us flav

IO OT GRIG 2019 PIN ht & swee t : brig

to a nos e lead mas on the bala nce d by Gar den aro te sea mle ssly brig ht pala juic y acid ity.

DESIGN INSPI R AT

ION Inspired by la Torre Guinig i which resides in Lucca , Italy, the pearlescent a laser- cut Guinigi tower black label features which shows the wine level as it descends. northern Italy ties with Bridging the historical our present-day family , the Guinigi logo shines to a touch of celeste with gold foil in additio blue along with moder n n tactile geometric shape shipper shows the skyline s. The bold and vibran one would see in the city t of Lucca looking toward s the Guinigi tower.

Y RDONNA 2019 CHA y : crisp & fruit

to a sim ilar mas allu de go, pas sion Trop ical aro flav ors of man t. pala te with nge zes frui t and ora

OT NOIR 2019 PIN

PROSECCO

: lush & juicy

DESIGN

ia urou s Cali forn the adv ent Insp ired by of whe re you vers atil ity the out doo rs and s of win e, a fres h glas bols sym can enjo y of ety ws a vari shin e ima ger y sho , wat er, sun a tree fort are incl udin g bold colo rs A vari ety of vari eta ls and mor e. tiat e the five eren diff to to clos ely use d adje ctiv es to n itio in add of the win e. flav or pro file mat ch the

EOUT YO U R H I D RECLAIM @TREEFO

RTWINES

TREEFOR

TWI

NES.COM

D.O.C. TREVISO This Italian wine sparkl es with gold highlights among fine and persis delicate with fruit forwar tent bubbles. The nose d and floral notes. The is palate is balanced with the optimal amount of juicy acidity and softne ss.

o and tob acc frui t leat her ors of Aro mas of d with flav es. pala te fille ope n to a bak ing spic ber ries and drie d cran

ION I N S P I R AT

UVIGNO ERNET SA 2019 CAB & bold

: rich

PINOT GRIGIO

lave nde r. of viol ets and k of dar k blac Flor al aro mas with flav ors Bold pala te a wel com ed den sity. frui ts and

D.O.C . DEL L E V EN E ZIE With a brilliant yellow color, this Italian pinot grigio awakens the palate refined bouquet. Aroma with an elegant and s of apricot and hawth orn flowers are delica of minerality. Flavors tely balanced with a are bright with an acidity hint that complements the softness of this wine.

TOWERING WI NES, DEEP RO OTS. RTWIN @TREEFO

TREEFOR

TWINES.

COM

Our family roots run deep

in northern Italy, and we honor that heritage with G U I N I G I wines.

GUINIGIWINES

.COM

GUINIGIWINES

As consumers turned to more familiar and established brands during the pantry-loading stage of the pandemic, a number of wine companies slowed the launches of their new brands, hoping for more favorable conditions and a more successful launch later on. Others, like 3 Badge Beverage Corp., are doubling down on more popularly priced wines that can compete in the off-premise and, when it returns, the on-premise as well.

Some Operations Double Down on the On-premise Nimble is how August Sebastiani describes his firm 3 Badge Beverage Corp., which is based in Sonoma, Calif., and sells a mix of wines and spirits. The company is skewed toward spirits, which Sebastiani said has seen phenomenal growth during the pandemic in step with a sustained trend of consumers making elaborate cocktails at home. Yet 3 Badge is rolling out new wines. This year the company launched Tree Fort, which is a line of popular varietals from the Central Coast and priced to compete in national grocery chains. The company also recently unveiled Guinigi which consists of a Prosecco and Pinot Grigio from Italy. 3 Badge is hoping to capitalize on the strength of Prosecco but stand out with modern packaging that includes a label featuring a laser cut tower in gold foil. The tower is from the village in Italy from which the Sebastiani family emigrated in 1895. (Samuele Sebastiani would start the namesake winery in Sonoma nine years later and the family would own it until 2008, when it was purchased by Bill Foley.) Sebastiani said his portfolio of spirits has helped in some cases to secure distribution for the wine brands, but he said distributors in general remain open to innovation and are also eager for a return to what’s normal. “Some of the magic for us is being small and boutique. We have the flexibility of being unique,” he said. “The salesman’s job doesn’t stop until we hear the word no, so we just keep pushing and pushing.” And Sebastiani remains fully committed to on-premise. In August, the company recently earned approval for a restaurant in downtown Sonoma. Because of tied-house laws, Sebastiani is looking for a third party to operate the business but is very eager—and is confident most consumers feel the 84 November 2020 WBM

same—for a return to normal restaurant business. He called the move almost a “generational play” and is optimistic that, when people can eat out like they used to, on-premise is going to return in a big way. The on-premise sector is where Aaron Fein, vice president of sales marketing of Napa, Calif.-based Plata Wine Partners, is finding some new traction as well. Plata produces private label, store exclusives and other brands for a variety of clients. In September he said he’d received some interest from clients looking to develop brands for both on-premise consumption and which have prices to complement to-go and delivery orders. “These are things that are unique and different and won’t compete directly with price points at retail,” he said. Clients are much more open to cans and other formats as well as using wine in developing products similar to the cocktail kits that have been wildly popular with homebound consumers. Since March though, he admitted new brands in general have been a challenge and there has been much more demand and success with line extensions. “It’s a softer runway for introducing a line extension versus inventing a completely new concept and bringing it to market,” he said. Fein said Plata’s specialty is in-store exclusives and they’ve found line extensions have done very well here too, as consumers already know the brand and price so trying a new varietal is not that big of an ask. “Our niche is exclusive brands for specific retailers and our investment this year is taking our more successful brands and putting more ‘there’ there.” The company has spent more on marketing support than it ever has in its history, and Fein said the investment has paid off in overall sales growth. “They’re thrilled with the energy we’re putting into it and quite frankly it’s led to line extensions and for us that’s the coup de grâce.” WBM

.COM

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people Wineries & Winemaking

Industry Services & Suppliers

Bob and Renée Stein, the owners of Notre Vue Estate and Balverne Wines, announced several new management figures who have joined the winery. Jennifer Yukimi Tusa has been named director of hospitality and DTC, Alexandra Reynolds has been named trade and sales manager and Patrick Hamilton is the winery’s new viticulturist. Yukimi Tusa has spent the last two decades at Clos du Bois in Geyserville in a range of hospitality roles. Born in Japan and raised in Sonoma County, she graduated from San Francisco State University with a degree in political science. She also holds a language degree from Kyoto University of Foreign Studies. She is certified as a member of the Court of Master Sommeliers; she has been a certified tourism ambassador for Sonoma County since 2014. Alexandra Reynolds holds the WSET Level 3 and is currently working on the Diploma Level certification. For the last four years she has worked in hospitality and management roles at Merry Edwards Winery in Sebastopol. Patrick Hamilton most recently served as vineyard manager at the Massa Estate Organic Vineyards in Carmel Valley and Arroyo Seco. Born and raised in Texas, he graduated from the University of California, Santa Cruz, with a degree in ecological horticulture. He has worked for Rangeland Wines in Paso Robles, Flowers Vineyard in Cazadero, Ridge Vineyards in Healdsburg, Gabriel Farm in Graton, Turtle Vines in Sebastopol and several other farming operations in Texas, Oregon, Washington, Louisiana and Virginia.

InnoVint, a leading production software solution, announced that Kevin Williams joined the team as senior relationship manager. In his new role, Williams will tap into his robust experience representing software solutions to evangelize the operational value that InnoVint brings to wineries with clients and partners. Prior to joining the InnoVint team, Williams was a sales leader for both Commerce7 and WineDirect. While working for Winery Direct, he quickly rose in the ranks from sales executive to director of sales, then transitioned to spearheading international sales for Commerce7 at the company’s inception. The company also announced that announce that Don LaBorde joined the team as client success director. In his new role, LaBorde will apply his extensive winemaking experience and operational team leadership to maximize the value of the InnoVint solution for their largest winery clients. LaBorde has spent nearly 20 years leading some of the North Coast’s largest brands through their greatest growth phases. He was influential at Duckhorn Wine Company leading DECOY’s production during their stint as the #1 revenue generating brand in the U.S.

Bogle Vineyards and Winery hired three wine industry veterans and has added duties to its national accounts director as the family-owned and operated company continues to expand its nationwide sales team. The newest hires are Matt Mitchell, east/southeastern sales director, Heather Peterson, northeast/midwest sales director, and Robin Parranto, key accounts manager-central region. Current Bogle director of national accounts, James Eichel, adds the duties and title of director of sales-west. Wine and spirits négociant, 3 Badge Beverage Corporation, announced two new additions to their 3 Badge Mixology sales team with Amanda Goggin joining as the East market manager and Andrei Kissin as the West market manager. Goggin brings a great deal of supplier experience on the East Coast. Most recently the marketing manager for Eastside Distilling, Goggin has strong relationships in both on- and off-premise channels. Based in Quincy, Massachusetts, Goggin will oversee the company’s spirits sales for Connecticut, Delaware, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York and Rhode Island. Kissin brings excellent distributor experience to his new role. Most recently a spirits specialist for Wine Warehouse, Kissin has prior experience promoting 3 Badge brands. Based in Los Angeles, Kissin will oversee 3 Badge’s spirit sales for Arizona, California, Hawaii, Nevada, Oregon, Utah and Washington. Campari America, the U.S. subsidiary of Campari Group, the sixthlargest spirits company in the world, is appointed Andrea Sengara as the company’s new vice president, marketing. Leading a distinct portfolio of culture-defining spirits brands, Sengara joins the organization at a time of unprecedented transition, opportunity, and growth. With a people-first mentality, Sengara oversees a seasoned group of spirits professionals who have created breakthrough campaigns for visionary brands. Sengara joins Campari America with more than 20 years of experience in the alcohol beverage industry. 86 November 2020 WBM

Kevin Williams

Don LaBorde

BRANDT Specialty Formulations has added two new territory sales managers, Cody Massey and Nate Britt, to its North American ag sales team, covering the U.S. Pacific Northwest and Canada. Both Massey and Britt will report to BRANDT regional sales manager, Dan Pinther. They will focus on selling the company’s proprietary foliar nutrient technology, BRANDT Manni-Plex and BRANDT Smart System, as well as a wide range of sustainable crop inputs. Massey holds an M.S. degree in weed science from Mississippi State University and a B.S. from Oklahoma State University. He has five years of agriculture and crop protection experience, including vertebrate eradication and crop protection. Massey will cover Oregon, western Washington, and western Canada. Britt has 10 years of agriculture and crop production experience. He has a B.A. degree in communications from the University of Hawaii. Britt will focus on eastern Washington and central Canada. Allen Wine Group LLP named Scott Stone senior manager at the firm. Stone joins founder Timothy Allen, Shannon Pakes, Megan Nelms, Justin Nuzum, and Evan Conklin as part of the management team at Allen Wine Group. Stone has more than 17 years of professional finance and accounting experience in the wine industry. He joins the Allen Wine Group team after 11 years as general manager at Schug Winery, where he was responsible for all operations including financial planning, accounting, and production. Prior to that, Stone was the controller for Kuleto Estate Winery, controller for Clos Du Val, and cost accountant for Treasury Wine Estates. He has a bachelor’s degree in business economics from UC Santa Barbara and an Executive MBA in wine business from Sonoma State University.

A To Z Wineworks, Adelsheim Vineyard, Adler Fels, Adobe Road For people news you can search or filter visit winebusiness.com/peopleWinery, Alexander Valley Vineyards, Anaba Wines, Andretti Winery, Arizona Stronghold Vineyards, Artesa Vineyards & Winery, Ascentia Wine Estates, B Cellars, B R Cohn Winery, Bedell Cellars and The Wine Industry’s Leading Online Job Site Corey Creek Vineyards, Bell Wine Cellars, Bennett Lane Winery, Benziger Family Winery, Bergevin Lane Vineyards, Bergstrom Winery, Bianchi Winery and Tasting Room, Black Hills Estate Winery, Associations & Education Black Stallion Estate Winery, Blackbird Vineyards, Bogle Vineyards, Bouchaine Vineyards, Buccella, Burgess Cellars, C Donatiello WinThe San Luis Obispo Coast Wine ery, Cain Vineyard and Winery, Cakebread Cellars, Cameron Hughes Collective (SLO Coast Wine) hired Wine Co., Castello di Amorosa, Caymus Vineyards, Chalk Hill Estate Kathleen Naughton as its new Vineyards & Winery, Chance Creek Vineyards (Bock), Chappellet executive director. Naughton Winery, Charles Krug Winery, Chateau Bianca, Chateau Diana, Chahas been working part-time for teau Montelena Winery, Cline Cellars, Clos Du Bois, Clos Lachance the Collective for two years; Winery, Clos Pegase Winery, Constant-Diamond Mountain Vineassisting with marketing efforts, yard, Constellation Wines, Constellation Wines U.S., Continuum consumer events and the annual Estate, Conway Family Wines, Copain Wines, Coquelicot Wines, live auction. She has proven to be Corliss Estates, Cornerstone Cellars, Cru Vin Dogs Wine Group, an astute problem-solver capable Crushpad, Cuvaison Estate Wines, Darioush Winery, Dashe Cellars, of prioritizing and managing David Bruce Winery, De Loach Vineyards, Del Dotto Vineyards, Delicato Vineyards - Custom Resource Group, Derby Wine Estates, Diacomplex projects with proficiency. Two ways to fi nd your next job: geo Chateau & Estate Wines, Dierberg/Star Lane Vineyard, Domaine Her experience in the beverage 1. Search posted on Winejobs.com Carneros, Ltd., jobs Domaine Chandon, Domaine Serene Vineyards industry spans 14 years and has & Winery, & Sons, Dono Dal taken her from the Central Valley in • Don MoreSebastiani than 10,000 jobs posted eachCielo year Vineyard, Dry Creek Vineyard, Duckhorn Wine Co., Dutton-Goldfi eld Winery, E & California, to Washington DC, and • Searching is FREE and EASY Kathleen Naughton J Gallo Winery, Ehlers Estate, Enkidu Wine, Fantesca Estate & Winfinally settling on the Central Coast ery, Far Niente Winery, Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery, Fetzer • Positions available in: in 2013. Throughout her career, Vineyards, Fleury Estate Winery, Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards, she has gained experience in almost every aspect of the wine industry from Foley Family Wines, Francis Winemaking/Enology Ford Coppola Presents, Frank Famiimporting, distribution, e-commerce, and direct to consumer channels. The ly Vineyards, Freixenet Sonoma Caves, Fritz Winery, Frog’s Leap Tasting Room & Retail executive director is charged with implementing the Collective’s vision, Winery, Galante Family Winery, Glenora Wine Cellars, Goosecross Administration & Accounting facilitating relationships within the community, and building and executing Cellars, Grgich Hills Estate, Groth Vineyards & Winery, Gundstrategic marketing initiatives. lach Bundschu Winery, Hagafen Cellars, Hahn Family Wines, Hall Sales, Marketing & Distribution Wines, Hanna Winery, Hedges Family Estate, Heitz Wine Cellars, Vineyard Operations The British Columbia Wine Institute (BCWI) held its first-ever virtual annualHess Collection Winery, Hudson Vineyards, Ironstone Vineyards, J F Vineyards & Wines, J Vineyards & Winery, general meeting on September 1, 2020 welcoming a new board of directors J Bronco Winery, J Lohr Cellar, Lab & Production and a new name for the organization. ine voting BCWI Directors represent Jack Neal & Son Vineyard Mgmt, Jarvis, Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Vineyards, Justin Winery, Keller Estate, 2. Create a free profi le soVineyards employers& can find you all British Columbia wineries. Newly elected or re-elected members of the Joseph Phelps Kendall-Jackson, Kenneth Volk Vineyards, Kenzo Estate, King Estate Board of Directors are: Greg Berti, Andrew Peller; Josh Stewart, Arterra – More than 3,000 employers posting each year Winery, Knights Bridge Winery, Korbel Champagne Cellars, Krupp Wines Canada; Vice-Chair Darryl Brooker, Mark Anthony Group; Christa-Lee Brothers Estates/Stagecoach Vineyards, Kunde Family Estate, La McWatters, TIME Winery; Charlie Baessler, Corcelettes Estate Winery; and Crema, Laird Family Estate, Lambert Bridge Winery, Lancaster EsSantiago Cilley, Phantom Creek Estates. Continuing their directorships are tate, LangeTwins Winery & Vineyards, Ledson Winery & Vineyards, Chair Erik Fisher (Monte Creek Ranch Winery), Leo Gebert (St. Hubertus Lewis Cellars, Littorai Wines, Long Meadow Ranch Winery, Lucas & Oak Bay Winery) and Dapinder Gill (Kismet Estate Winery). BC Grape- & Lewellen Vineyards, Lynmar Winery, Marimar Estate Vineyards growers’ Association representative David Kozuki and BCWI President & & Winery, Martinelli Winery, Medlock Ames, Mendocino Wine Co./ CEO Miles Prodan continue as ex officio non-voting members. WBM Parducci Wine Cellars, Merriam Vineyards, Merryvale Vineyards, Michael-David Winery, Monterey Wine Co., Mumm Napa, My Wines Direct, Napa Wine Co., Number 9, Nelson Family Vineyards, Nicholson Ranch, Nickel & Nickel, Niner Wine Estates, Oak Ridge Winery, O’Neill Vintners & Distillers, Opus One, Owl Ridge Wines, Patz & Hall Wine Company, Paul Hobbs, Peju Province Winery, Pezzi King Vineyards, Pine Ridge Vineyards, Plumpjack Winery, Prairie Berry Legal Counsel to the Beverage Industry .com Winery, Precept Wine Brands, Premier Pacific Vineyards, Quintessa • Applications for ABC and TTB licenses Vineyards, Quixote Winery, R B Wine Associates - Rack & Riddle • Distribution agreements & direct shipping advice for all states Custom Crush Wine Services, Raymond Vineyards, Regusci Win• ABC and TTB Business Practice Counseling ery, Reynolds Family Winery, Ridge Vineyards, Robert Hall Winery, • Accusation, Defense and Protest Hearing Representation Robert Oatley Vineyards, Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Robledo Family • Regulatory clearance of promotions, point-of-sale material, Winery, Rodney Strong Wine Estates, Roederer Estate, Rombauer labels and advertising ATTORNEYS: Vineyards, Rosenthal - The Malibu Estate, Round Pond Estate, RuJohn Hinman bissow Family& Wines, Rutherford Beth Aboulafia Created Managed by Hill Winery, Rutherford Ranch 260 California Street, Suite 700 Rebecca Stamey-White Winery, S V P Winery, Saddleback Cellars, Saintsbury, San Antonio San Francisco CA 94111 Erin Kelleher Telephone 415.362.1215 Sara Mann Winery, Saracina Vineyards, Sawyer Cellars, Schramsberg VineAdie Sherwood Facsimile 415.362.1494 Gillian Garrett yards & J Davies Vineyards, Seavey Vineyard, Sebastiani Vineyards beveragelaw.com Barbara Snider & Winery, Sequoia Grove Vineyards, Shafer Vineyards, Signorello

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advertiser index Thank you to all of our advertisers! Company

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Company

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Acrolon Technologies, Inc.

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Quality Stainless Tanks

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American AgCredit, CoBank, Farm Credit West, Northwest Farm Credit Services

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Sanitary Stainless Welding

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Saverglass, Inc.

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American Vineyard Foundation

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Scott Laboratories, Inc.

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Amorim Cork America

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Shelco Filters

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Ardagh Group, Glass

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Sonoma Cast Stone

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Speidel Tank- und BehĂ¤lterbau

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ATPGroup

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Spokane Industries

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Bergin Screen Printing and Etching

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StaVin, Inc.

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Berlin Packaging

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Sunridge Nurseries

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BSG Wine

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Tom Beard Co

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Carlsen & Associates

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Tonnellerie Ă&#x201D;

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CDR s.r.l.

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TricorBraun WinePak

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Clark Smith

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Unified Wine & Grape Symposium

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CO2 Meter, Inc.

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Waterloo Container Co.

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ColloPack Solutions

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Western Square Industries, Inc.

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Criveller Group

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Winejobs.com

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Della Toffola USA, Ltd.

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Winetech, LLC

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Wonderful Nurseries

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World Cooperage

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Zenport Industries

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Eastern Winery Exposition

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Enartis

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ETS Laboratories

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Euro-Machines, Inc.

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Free Flow Wines

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G3 Enterprises

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Gallo Glass Co.

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Guillaume Grapevine Nursery

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Gusmer Enterprises

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Herti US

www.hertius.com

Hinman & Carmichael, LLP

www.beveragelaw.com

InnoVint, Inc.

www.innovint.us

La Garde

www.lagardeinox.com

4,5

La Prenda Vineyards Management

www.laprendavineyards.com

Lodi Winegrape Commission

lodiwine.com

M A Silva USA

www.masilva.com

Minox SRL

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Napa Fermentation Supplies

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Ogletree's, Inc.

www.ogletreecorp.com

Onguard LLC

www.onguardgroup.com

P&L Specialties

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PolarClad Tank Insulation

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88 November 2020 WBM

30,41

STATEMENT OF THE OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION as required by the Act of Congress on October 23, 1962, Section 4369, Title 39, United States code for Wine Business Monthly, published monthly, in Sonoma, CA. 1. The date of this filing is September 22, 2020 2. The location of the office of the Publisher is 35 Maple St., Sonoma, CA 95476 3. The name and address of the Publisher is: Eric Jorgensen, 35 Maple St., Sonoma, CA 95476

The name and address of the Editor is: Cyril Penn III, 35 Maple St., Sonoma, CA 95476

4. Wine Business Monthly is owned by Wine Communications Group, Inc. A California Corporation. 5. For the year preceding this filing: Average number of copies printed per issue . . . .6,102 Paid and/or requested circulation average . . . . .5,548 Nonrequested distribution average . . . . . . . . . 385 Total print distribution average . . . . . . . . . . .5,933 6. For the single issue published nearest filing date: Number of copies printed . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5,674 Paid and/or requested circulation . . . . . . . . . 5,138 Nonrequested distribution . . . . . . . . . . . . . .500 Total print distribution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5,638 Eric Jorgensen, Publisher Wine Business Monthly

winemaker of the month Dave Miller, owner/winemaker, White Pine Winery, Lawton, Michigan NAME AND TITLE: Dave

Miller, owner/winemaker

WINERY NAME AND LOCATION:

White Pine Winery, Lawton,

Michigan ANNUAL CASE PRODUCTION: 1,800 PLANTED ACRES:

cases

3.0

I studied biology/plant ecology for my B.S. at Ball State. I discovered wine in 1983 and thought grapevines/vineyards would be a great way to apply my interests to a career path. There were 14 wineries in Michigan in 1983 when I started grad school at MSU. I earned my M.S. and Ph.D. degrees at Michigan State University in grapevine physiology and worked there for a number of years as a research technician. During that time, I saw the great potential for world-class wine production in Michigan in the fruit belt along the lee-side of Lake Michigan (west side of Michigan). I took a job with St. Julian Winery in 1997 to apply what I had learned to improve winegrape quality in southwest Michigan. Over a 13-year period our sales increased threefold and wines, particularly from vinifera grapes, began winning many awards. I started White Pine in 2010 so I could focus on producing a small number of high-quality wines to showcase the region. I focus on both vinifera and resistant hybrid wines. Today there are 140 wineries in Michigan and counting. CAREER BACKGROUND:

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST PROFESSIONAL CHALLENGE?

Adapting viticulture and winemaking practices to the unique climate conditions in Michigan. We have a continental climate with small maritime influence created by Lake Michigan. We still lose crop to low winter temperatures occasionally and we can have very wet conditions with lots of rain during the growing and ripening seasons. VARIETALS THAT YOUR WINERY IS KNOWN FOR:

Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin

“Wine Business Monthly is a complete source of information for the wine industry. I appreciate the thoughtful insights from Mark Greenspan on vineyard management and the winemaker roundtable discussions. The detailed notes on wine production have helped to guide my own winemaking trials with the most recent example the Rhonê Varietal article. I almost feel like I am in the room with the winemakers as they taste one another’s wines and offer comments. Then, I can see in detail how they produced the wines the group is tasting. With the number of varietals available for production in the U.S., understanding how others approach wine production with an eye for varying styles is extremely valuable. As a winery owner, I also appreciate the reviews of POS software, packaging, developing brand identity and awareness and wine club management. There are so many facets to the wine industry, I find reading Wine Business Monthly a great way to learn from experts in every part of the business.” WBM November 2020 89

Social Distancing with social distancing came more than 40 years ago. It was created by Jakelyn’s cat, Pudgy. This detective is not a cat person; so, when Jakelyn asked me if she could get a cat, I told her it was up to Mary Bonino, our landlord. Jakelyn did not know our lease specifically stated that no animals were allowed, so I felt confident we could avoid a feline family member. Of course, by then Jakelyn was well established as the grandchild the Boninos never had, so they told her, “Sure, a kitty would be nice.” When we got the cat, I sat down with Jakelyn and Pudgy and explained to both of them that Pudgy would be an outdoor cat. Our house was just 846 square feet, and we often had company spending the night on futons. Not only that, but Jakelyn’s mother had a pet cockatiel that watched television and ate Cheetos with her as she did her weaving. I pointed out that cats and birds had a long history of antagonistic relations, much like winemakers and grape growers during price negotiations, and we didn’t want to confront a pile of feathers while Jakelyn’s mother wept for her lost Cheeto-eating partner. JAKE LORENZO’S FIRST EXPERIENCE

Very quickly, our friends learned to socially distance themselves from our cat. Some of our friends were so convinced of their rapport with cats that they tried to pet her each time they visited. Invariably, by the third or fourth visit they accepted that social distancing was better than hydrogen peroxide, Band-Aids and scars from cat claws. Pudgy lived with us for 18 years. She even came with us to the new house when we moved here 20 years ago. Sadly, Pudgy died shortly thereafter. We had a wake. Dozens of people sat on our porch, telling stories about our cat and showing off their scars, while we drank sparkling wine and ate caviar, because Jake Lorenzo thought Pudgy would have liked caviar had we let her try it. All the talk of social distancing for this pandemic made me think of Pudgy. Scientists tell us that the virus is carried in droplets passed from infected people to healthy ones. They insist that if we all wear masks and stay 6 feet apart, we will drastically reduce the spread of the virus. I believe them. I keep my distance, even when friends come to visit. Yet there are plenty of people who won’t listen. They flock to concerts, brew pubs and bars to stand elbow to elbow and have a good time. They sit at their outdoor restaurants but won’t mask up when the waiters approach their table. Try to open college campuses and students hang out too close to one another. Two weeks later, hundreds test positive, and live classes are cancelled. Open schools for children without maintaining social distance and, before you know it, the kids are sent home, and the schools close. It’s clear to Jake Lorenzo. I have experienced this phenomenon before. After all, many of my good friends still have scars from Pudgy because they would not heed my warnings about feline social distancing. They thought they were special or impervious, or they just wouldn’t listen, much like many people today. If people get with the program, wine lends itself to social distancing. A few people can get together outside, bring their own glasses, set them one by one on a table then move away. One person can open a bottle, pour wine into each of the glasses and then have each guest approach one at a time to pick up their wine. Go sit in chairs spaced out at a proper distance and you’ve got a social event, one not likely to infect you with a deadly virus. “How can we be outside when the air is filled with smoke and ash?” you ask. That’s where you’ve got to get creative. You need a big indoor space that is cool and smoke-free, one that allows social distancing while listening to music and drinking wine. For this detective, my winery is the perfect place. I’m probably not using it to make smoke-tainted wine, anyway. Jakelyn’s mom tells me it would be nice to get a winery cat. I tell her we travel too much to have a pet that needs daily care, and I’m hopeful we will be traveling again in a year or two. Besides, we will never find another cat as perfectly suited to this detective’s lifestyle as Pudgy; but if we can find another Cheeto-eating cockatiel that will watch TV with Jakelyn’s mom while she weaves, then that’s a done deal. WBM

“If people get with the program, wine lends itself to social distancing.”

Pudgy did better with the indoor ban than Jakelyn. Jakelyn was always trying to sneak the cat into the house, but Pudgy was having none of it. Jake Lorenzo and the cat made a deal. I took her to the vet to get spayed and shots but promised that was the last time she had to visit the vet. It worked for her. Pudgy was small but tough, and she fully embraced life as a feral cat. As the years went by, Pudgy fit into the household pretty well. She lived outside and kept mostly to herself. Jakelyn gave up trying to catch her and drag her into the house, and soon she was in high school, dating and then off to college. Most of the day, we never even saw the cat; but once this detective turned on the music and poured the first glass of wine, she’d appear and sit on the porch, watching us. I found that if I let my arm dangle off the couch, she would even come over and rub her head along the back of my hand; but if I made any attempt to pet or grab her, she’d be off like a runaway fermentation during Diablo winds. We always had friends visiting, especially for wine in the afternoon. Pudgy would sit there watching us, occasionally rubbing along my hand. Evidently, a lot of our friends were “cat people” and loved cats. They were convinced that cats loved them back. I’d warn them, “She doesn’t like to be touched.” They’d smirk as if detectives were gun-toting idiots who didn’t understand the link between cat lovers and cats. They’d reach over to pet Pudgy. She’d claw the hell out of them and run off the porch. Jake Lorenzo would calmly put down the wine glass, pull out the hydrogen peroxide and tend to their wounds.

90 November 2020 WBM

ILLUSTRATION BY BOB JOHNSON

jake lorenzo

E N H A N C I N G

C R A F T S I N C E

etslabs.com

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