7:45 AM
9:00 AM
We all paddle out hollering our brains out looking at the chest high barrels consistently rolling through. I saw an outside set coming through and decided to paddle for it. Dropping in on a beautifully clean face and looking down the line with a perfect wave to get a few pumps and turns on was the best feeling I’ve had in years!
We made it back after a successful boat trip! Everyone’s fried with sore arms after paddling into perfect waves all morning. We all decide to make some breakfast and nap. Pablo and Marcelo are looking into the report for the rest of the week while Sica the bungalow owner’s dog snoops around for some left over scrambled eggs and peanut butter toast.
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