Whiskeria Autumn 2019

Autumn Harvest Autumn 2019

Nick Nairn fronts our food special + Talisker Mixing It Up + Knockdhu Distillery Visit + Cocoa Works My Craft + York Tour Guide Travel + Get It Before It’s Gone New Releases

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Whiskeria

Autumn 2019

As I see it…

Straying from the beaten path The Whisky Shop Chairman, Ian Bankier, urges us all to take the route less traveled…

— Illustration: Francesca Waddell

❛ Choose the buzz of Glasgow, go to Oban and cross to the Isle of Mull, go to Inverness and use it as a launch pad for Highland and Speyside malt distilleries…

Stray!

At this time of year many parts of the UK, but Scotland especially, are enjoying another exceptionally strong tourist season. A number of influences make this happen, but, as I see it, weak Sterling is the predominant factor.

It gives the foreign visitor record high spending power and it encourages a growing amount of UK ‘staycationers’. With the mad surrealism that is Brexit, we could be forgiven for feeling that the UK has lost the plot. But in the real world, actually, people like coming to Britain.

We do most things very well and we have a lot to offer both the international traveller and the staycationer.

Although Scotland has an embarrassment of riches with its islands, lochs, mountains and golf courses, the rest of the UK also has an excellent array of tourist attractions – ranging from the Titanic Centre in Belfast to the Jurassic Coast of East Devon. London, of course, is the largest tourist destination in Europe and Edinburgh is the hot spot in Scotland. The challenge is to encourage tourists to stray from the beaten path. For, if they do, they will be rewarded.

Not only is The Whisky Shop well represented in both London and Edinburgh, we have a presence in many truly engaging visitor locations – Bath, Oxford, York, Norwich and Brighton in England, and Inverness, Fort William and Oban in Scotland – not to mention Glasgow. Straying from the beaten path is also a big part of what’s on offer at The Whisky Shop. Our message to customers is: This is where you come to find something unique and different. We can help you to explore the world of hand crafted, limited edition whiskies. You

can discover something that you cannot find anywhere else.

A particular bugbear of mine is the impact that lazy journalism has had on the paths of tourists. When I read travel guides, it’s not what they mention, it’s what they miss out that frustrates me. For instance, some years back the Sunday supplements got hooked on the Isle of Skye. Presumably somebody in the editorial office must have gone there at some point. And, consequently, the trope of Saturday/Sunday review pieces covering UK destinations would remorselessly identify Skye and little else in Scotland. I would regularly see the map of Scotland with the dot on the Isle of Skye and pretty much the whole of the Highlands and Lowlands of Scotland absent of any recommendations.

Make no mistake, Skye is a truly great destination. In fact, in this issue we feature a foraging trip to the island. And it is the home of Talisker, one of the great peated malts.

As I say, it’s not what is mentioned, it’s what is missed out. So my message to tourists and visitors to the UK is to stray from the beaten path, both in terms of where you go and also what you choose when you visit one of our excellent shops. Choose the buzz of Glasgow, go to Oban and cross to the Isle of Mull, go to Inverness and use it as a launch pad for Highland and Speyside malt distilleries. And in England, experience the delights of Bath, drop down to Brighton, or venture to York. Stray!

Slàinte Ian P Bankier, Executive Chairman,

Whiskeria

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Competition

Win! A bottle of The Macallan Estate This autumn we’re giving away a bottle of highly sought-after The Macallan Estate, which has flown off The Whisky Shop shelves quicker than you can say “sherry cask”!

This limited edition expression has been produced with a portion of whisky distilled from barley grown on The Macallan's home of Easter Elchies Estate. Matured exclusively in sherry seasoned butts and hogsheads, it is presented in a beautiful case with aerial photography of the barley fields surrounding the new £140 million distillery.

For your chance to win, simply visit: whiskyshop.com/whiskeria-competition and answer one simple question.

Competition closes Monday 18th November 2019.

T&Cs apply. The winner will be contacted directly.

Terms & Conditions The winners will be selected from all entries via the link stated above by midnight on 18th November 2019. The judge’s decision will be final. The competition is not open to employees of The Whisky Shop Ltd. All normal competition rules apply. UK entrants

New Releases The Macallan Estate

must be 18 years old or over to apply. International entrants must be of legal drinking age in their country of residence.

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–– produced by Ascot Publishing Limited PO Box 7415 Glasgow G51 9BR –– contact enquiries@whiskyshop.com

–– commissioning editor GlenKeir Whiskies Limited –– executive producer Claire Daisley claire@whiskyshop.com 0141 427 2919 –– executive chairman Ian P Bankier ipb@whiskyshop.com

–– feature writers Brian Wilson Charles MacLean Gavin D Smith Claire Bell –– product photography Subliminal Creative 01236 734923

The Magazine of

–– creative direction a visual agency emlyn@avisualagency.com –– feature photography Brian Sweeney Armando Ferrari –– photo assistants Fabio Rebelo Paiva –– stylists Meredith Wilkie Hayley Sweeney –– illustration Francesca Waddell Hrafnhildur Halldorsdottir Richard Littler / Scarfolk

–– Glenkeir Whiskies Limited trades as THE WHISKY SHOP. Opinions expressed in WHISKERIA are not necessarily those of Glenkeir Whiskies Limited. Statements made and opinions expressed are done so in good faith, but shall not be relied upon by the reader.

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Prices effective 1 August 2019.

All prices in this edition of Whiskeria are subject to change.

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Contributors Charles MacLean —

Charles has published fourteen Scotch whisky books to date, including the standard work on whisky brands, Scotch Whisky, and the leading book on its subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were short-listed for Glenfiddich awards. He was also script advisor for Ken Loach’s 2012 film The Angels’ Share and subsequently played the part of the whisky expert in the film (which he claims to be his biggest career highlight to date).

New Releases Autumn 2019 9 Expert Tasting Glen Scotia / Bunnahabhain 94

Brian Wilson —

Formerly an MP, Brian held several Government Ministerial posts during his political career.

He lives on the Isle of Lewis, from where he pursues various business interests, notably in the energy sector. He also led the regeneration of the Harris Tweed industry and is currently Chairman of Harris Tweed Hebrides Ltd. His first love was writing and he continues to write books, as well as opinion pieces for national newspapers.

A Time in History Scottish Licensing 28

Gavin D Smith —

Gavin is one of the world’s most prolific and respected whisky writers. He’s regularly published in a range of top magazines and has written more than a dozen books on whisky, while co-authoring many more. He is also responsible for editing and releasing the latest version of Michael Jackson’s seminal whisky publication, The Malt Whisky Companion.

Distillery Visit Knockdhu 48

THE PALETTE OF BENRIACH. We source our eclectic cask collection from all over the world. From this colourful palette our master blender Rachel Barrie artfully combines bourbon, Oloroso sherry and virgin oak casks to create BenRiach 10 Year-Old, a rich Speyside single malt with an abundance of orchard fruits, luscious sweetness and toasted oak spice.

BenRiach. Exploring flavour since 1898.

Savour with time, drink responsibly.

The BenRiach is a registered trademark Š2019 BenRiach

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Contents

Autumn 2019 9 26 28 32 35 44 48 52 62 71 94 96

New Releases | Autumn 2019 Industry Top-Up | Whisky News Digest A Time in History | Scottish Licensing Travel | eSwatini Travel – Tour Guide | York My Craft | York Cocoa Works Distillery Visit | Knockdhu Mixing It Up | Talisker My Whiskeria | Nick Nairn The Whisky Shop Section Expert Tasting | Glen Scotia / Bunnahabhain Uncle Ether | Political Correctness Gone Mad

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Reviewed by Charles MacLean 001 002 003 004 005 006 007 008 009 010 011 012 013 014 015 016 017

Loch Lomond 2004 The Whisky Shop Exclusive Glen Scotia1999 The Whisky Shop Exclusive The GlenDronach1992 Cask #64 The Whisky Shop Exclusive The Macallan Estate Highland Park Søren Solkær 26 Years of Photography Kilchoman 2012 STR Cask Matured Kingsbarns Dream to Dram Jura Tide The Tyrconnell16 Year Old Starward Nova The Loch Fyne The Living Cask Batch 8 The Loch Fyne Glentauchers 11 Year Old The Loch Fyne Aultmore 12 Year Old The First Editions Craigellachie 2008 The Old Malt Cask Talisker 8 Year Old GlenKeir Treasures Ledaig 6 Year Old GlenKeir Treasures The Secret Highland 8 Year Old

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Loch Lomond 2004

The Whisky Shop Exclusive Single Cask Highland Single Malt Age: 14 Year Old Vol: 54.4%

70CL £110

Polished conker (deep mahogany) in hue, with good beading.

European oak ex-sherry. Nose drying, with light prickle. The top note is rich with sherry and Madeira, beneath this a creamy fudge note and a suggestion of spearmint at base. Water introduces oak shavings. A lightly oily texture at natural strength and a sweet taste soon drying, well sherried, with a long warming finish. A hint of struck match at reduced strength.

These two malts from the Loch Lomond Group are The Whisky Shop exclusives. Both are bottled at natural strength, without tinting or chillfiltration. [For information about Glen Scotia see my Expert Tasting].

Loch Lomond Distillery has long been an invisible giant. Although it is one of the largest distilleries in Scotland, producing both malt and grain spirits – its lowpriced Glen’s vodka is the second best-selling spirit in the UK – its blended whiskies and single malts have until now been mainly available in export markets.

It stands in an unlovely industrial estate in Alexandria, about a mile from Loch Lomond itself, commissioned in 1964 on the site of a once famous dye works. The man behind the conversion was Duncan Thomson, the American-born owner of Littlemill Distillery, in partnership with Barton Brands of Chicago. Thomson had installed a pair of Lomond stills at Littlemill, and did the same at Loch Lomond – the name is coincidental; this style of pot still, with a short rectifying column in place of the usual swan neck, was developed at Inverleven Distillery nearby. In 1993 he also installed a Coffey still to make grain spirit.

In 1985 the distilleries were sold to the independent bottler, Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse, a subsidiary of the Glasgow blender and drinks wholesaler (and at the time, retailer as well), A. Bulloch & Co., a family-owned company headed by Sandy Bulloch, who wanted to secure fillings for its blends.

In 1992 a second pair of Lomond stills was added, joined the next year by a Coffey still, in 1998 by a pair of traditional pot stills, and in 2010 by a second Coffey still, uniquely modified and capable of producing malt spirit. The distillery is currently able to produce 20 million litres of grain spirit, 3 million litres of malt, and 2 million litres of Coffey still single malt.

In 2014 Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse and its subsidiaries, Glen Scotia Distillery and Loch Lomond Distillers Ltd. – Littlemill was dismantled in 1996 – were bought by a group of experienced whisky distillers, with substantial support from Exponent Private Equity. In June 2019 it was announced that the Loch Lomond Group had been sold to the Chinese company, Hill House Capital.

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rich with sherry and Madeira, beneath this a creamy fudge note and a suggestion of spearmint at base.

Autumn 2019

Glen Scotia 1999

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The Whisky Shop Exclusive Single Cask Campbeltown Single Malt Age: 19 Year Old Vol: 58.4%

70CL ÂŁ135

9CT gold in hue; European oak refill cask? Nose-drying, with some prickle. The top note is of sticky malt loaf, with sultanas and macadamia nuts; the middle is lightly maritime (sea salt, sea-weed, old boat varnish) on a base of wet sand. Classic Campbeltown!

A smooth, oily texture and a sweet taste, with some salt and considerable spice. Water tames it somewhat, but does not alter the profile.

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lightly maritime (sea salt, seaweed, old boat varnish) on a base of wet sand. Classic Campbeltown!

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The GlenDronach 1992 Cask #64 The Whisky Shop Exclusive Single Cask Highland Single Malt Age: 26 Year Old Vol: 57.1%

70CL £259

Oloroso sherry with magenta lights. Profound and rich, nose-drying over all, with some spice at natural strength. A bouquet of moist Xmas cake (complete with marzipan and icing), damson jam and cigar box. The texture is mouth-filling, the taste sweet (fondant, cherry liqueur chocolates), with a long, dry finish. A drop of water closes the aroma somewhat, but expands the palate and adds some fragrant black pepper to the finish.

In the last issue of Whiskeria we featured another GlenDronach 1992, which I rated very highly. This single cask bottling at slightly higher strength is every bit as good.

It was matured for its entire life in a single Spanish oak Oloroso sherry cask – many now consider The GlenDronach to be the benchmark ‘sherry-matured’ malt. The policy of filling into casks seasoned with Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry was begun by the distillery’s former owner and master blender, Billy Walker, who also inherited a substantial stock of long-aged sherried whisky with which to build the brand.

He bought Glendronach in 2008, changed the brand name to GlenDronach, and sold the distillery to the Brown Forman Corporation of America (owner of Jack Daniels) in April 2016, along with its sister distilleries, The BenRiach and Glenglassaugh. The custodian of The GlenDronach’s quality and consistency today is the company’s Master (or should it be Mistress?)

Blender, Dr. Rachel Barrie.

The distillery was founded in 1826 by a group of farmers led by James Allardice, who has been described as an “inventor, pioneer and entrepreneur; exuberant and extroverted”. The story goes that, soon after he commenced production he travelled to Edinburgh with a small cask of his whisky with a view to taking cask orders from the city’s taverns and spirits merchants.

Alas, nobody was interested. Returning to his lodging in the Canongate, one evening he fell in with a couple of ‘ladies of the night’ and, over a few drams of ‘guid Glendronach’, explained his predicament.

Impressed by the whisky and by his generosity, the ladies spread the word to their colleagues who were not slow to join the merry tasting. The next day all the taverns on the High Street were ringing with demands for Glendronach from this motley crew… and, as Allardice recorded in his memoirs, “orders were swiftly forthcoming.”

Dr. Barrie said of another GlenDronach 1992 released last year, Grandeur Batch 10, that it was “an intense Sherry expression… with layers of damson plum, Morello cherries in dark chocolate, black walnut and truffle on a bed of antique leather and old-fashioned treacle gingerbread, Batch 10 celebrates the robust, full-bodied style of the GlenDronach distillery.”

Her words might well be applied to this superb 26 Year Old expression as well.

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A bouquet of moist Xmas cake (complete with marzipan and icing), damson jam and cigar box.

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The Macallan Estate Speyside Single Malt Age: —

Vol: 43%

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70CL £195

Ginger, oak and fruit – vanilla, fudge, citrus on the nose.

Rich and fruity with intense oakwood and spiced orange.

Long, sweet citrus finish with oak wood.

The Macallan Distillery stands within the 484acre Easter Elchies Estate, high above the River Spey opposite Craigellachie. An attractive L-plan tower house, built in 1700 and featured in most of The Macallan’s packaging, stands on the southern edge of the estate. Originally a Grant house and estate, it was sold to the Earl of Seafield in 1759 and Easter Elchies House was extensively altered and modernised in 1857.

For many years in the late 19th century, the Earl of Elgin and his family rented the house and leased the grouse shooting, and it was here, in 1894 that Victor Bruce, 9th Earl of Elgin, received the news that he had been appointed Viceroy of India. He did not allow this to interrupt his day’s shooting!

Two years before this, the distillery had been bought and entirely rebuilt by Roderick Kemp – “the man who was to become primarily responsible for the world-wide esteem in which The Macallan is now held” [John Frame, historian, 1999].

Today of course, the principal building on the estate is the new Macallan Distillery itself – a stupendous architectural statement quite unlike any other distillery in the world.

The Macallan Estate, described as “a tribute to our heritage and home”, contains a proportion of spirit made from barley grown on the estate, distilled once a year during a single week. Until now, this precious homegrown barley was only used for “the most exclusive and sought after releases in our prestige range”.

It has been created from casks selected by the distillery’s Whisky Maker, Sarah Burgess, who says: “With its wonderful sweet citrus hints and warming wood spice, The Macallan Estate is a rich, satisfying and complex spirit that pays homage to the fertile Speyside lands where The Macallan is located.”

Each bottle is accompanied by a piece of local slate “representative of the Scottish landscape of our home” and some photographs of fields of barley.

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Rich and fruity with intense oakwood and spiced orange.

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Highland Park Søren Solkær 26 Years of Photography

Island Single Malt Age: 26 Year Old

70CL £550

Vol: 40.5%

Dull amber in hue, natural colour; a mild nose-feel. The top notes are of ripe tropical fruits (mango, pineapple), with some wood notes (allspice, clove, oak shavings) in the middle and almond oil in base. A smooth, light texture and a sweet taste (white chocolate and fondant), finishing with white pepper and a suggestion of dry peat. An aftertaste of coconut.

In May, Highland Park released a limited edition single malt that has been created by the company’s master blender, Gordon Motion, in honour of the distinguished Danish photographer, Søren Solkær. It is the latest in a series of collaborations with individuals deemed to have ‘Viking souls’, including the tattoo artist Colin Dale for Twisted Tattoo (featured in the last edition of Whiskeria) and the former F1 racing legend, David Coulthard, for Highland Park’s Saltire Editions.

Best known for his portraits of famous film and rock-stars, including Björk, The White Stripes, Franz Ferdinand, David Lynch, Arctic Moneys, R.E.M. and U2, Søren has been working with Highland Park since 2016, taking 250 images of Orkney and its people. Each bottle is accompanied by a 230 page book featuring a selection of Søren’s work, divided into three themes: Men, Women and Places, while the black-box packaging was apparently inspired by vintage cameras.

I had the pleasure of tasting the whisky with Martin Markvardsen, Highland Park’s Global Brand Ambassador and a very old friend: I met him over 25 years ago, when he managed the legendary whisky bar at the Craigellachie Hotel, and he is hugely knowledgeable about every aspect of malt whisky production.

As readers of Whiskeria will know, over the past few years Highland Park has described itself as ‘The malt with Viking soul’: Martin embodies this (see him describing the whisky on YouTube), and he tells me that Søren is also a modern-day Viking.

The whisky has been matured in a mix of American oak casks – first fill ex-bourbon, sherry seasoned and refill – and is an elegantly balanced expression of Highland Park.

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tropical fruits (mango, pineapple), with some wood notes

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Kilchoman 2012 STR Cask Matured Islay Single Malt Age: 7 Year Old

Vol: 50%

70CL £75

Amber in hue – Golden Syrup – with good beading, the nose is cooling, with light prickle. The top note is of mint toffee, with sea-scents and kitchen spices in the middle on a distinctly smoky base. A mouth-filling, creamy texture and a smooth, sweet taste over all, with a dash of salt and a smoky finish.

Best enjoyed straight.

The curious name of this expression of Kilchoman refers to the shaving, toasting and re-charring of red wine casks, a process invented by the late, legendary, Dr. Jim Swan, who was the distillery’s chief consultant and process designer.

Anthony Wills, Kilchoman’s founder and MD, suggests that the shaving “reduces some of the bolder flavours on the surface of the oak, producing a more subtle red wine influence”. Indeed, I did not detect even a suggestion of red wine. He goes on: “The STR cask balances influence from both new and used oak to create a powerful combination of rich fruit, oak, spice and maritime peat smoke”.

The result is impressive. I am a fan of Kilchoman, and this is as good as it gets. The distillery was opened (by me!) in 2005 and describes itself as ‘Scotland’s only Single Farm Distillery’. The farm in question is Rockside, which supplies a proportion of the barley requirement that is malted on site – Kilchoman is unusual in having its own small floor maltings. The rest of the malt comes from Port Ellen Maltings. Maturation and bottling is done on site.

It is very much a family affair: Anthony is the boss; his wife Kathy runs the shop and tea-room (both excellent, by the way, although I have not yet seen the new expanded visitor centre), and their three sons are the sales team.

The first bottling of Kilchoman was released in 2012 and since then the whisky has won a clutch of awards: Sanaig won ‘Best NAS Single Malt’ at the International Wines & Spirits Awards 2016 and Machir Bay won ‘Best Islay Malt’ at the International Whisky Competition the same year. Anthony Wills was named ‘Master Distiller of the Year’ at the IWC 2013. Although he denies being a ‘Master Distiller’, he heads up a great team.

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mint toffee, with sea-scents and kitchen spices

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Kingsbarns Dream to Dram

Lowland Single Malt Age: —

Vol: 46%

70CL £49

Pale gold in hue; American oak maturation. The nose is clean and fresh, with zesty top notes – white grapes, green apples. Beneath this, banana and vanilla custard, on a base of soft fudge. A creamy texture and a sweet taste, light overall with a trace of bubble gum and a shortish finish.

Very easy drinking.

Kingsbarns Distillery is on the Cambo Estate, in the pretty East Neuk of Fife, and was commissioned in November 2014. This is the first generally available bottling; a limited Founders’ Reserve was released last year.

It’s attractive name was inspired by the fact that the owners, William and Isabella Wemyss, whose family have lived in Fife for generations – Wemyss Castle has been the family seat since the 1300s –have long dreamed of establishing a distillery in ‘The Kingdom’. Readers of Whiskeria may be familiar with their excellent Wemyss Malts range of independent bottlings.

The distillery is situated within a formerly derelict farm steading, built around 1800 with a doocot as its centrepiece, with over 600 terracotta nesting boxes for the pigeons which supplied the laird’s kitchen with meat and eggs. Kingsbarns has adopted a pigeon as its motif, and the lower part of each bottle is embossed with small squares symbolising the nesting boxes.

Kingsbarns is a truly artisan distillery, with the capacity to produce only 34 barrels a week; 200,000 litres of alcohol per year. All the barley used for Dream to Dram is grown in Fife and malted locally. Mineral-rich process water comes from an aquifer 100 metres below the distillery and fermentation lasts for between three and five days, developing fruity notes in the spirit.

Distillation is unusually slow, making for lightness and purity – a regime designed by the late genius, Dr. Jim Swan, who also advised on the wood policy: 90% first fill ex-bourbon barrels from Heaven Hill Distillery in Kentucky, with 10% matured in STR casks (shaved, toasted and re-charred ex-wine casks [see Kilchoman].

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light overall with a trace of bubble gum

Autumn 2019

Jura Tide

Island Single Malt Age: 21 Year Old

Vol: 46.7%

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70CL £160

Deep amber with copper lights. Nose warming and drying in effect – vivacious. The initial impression is of apricot skin, beneath which is an elusive floral note and a suggestion of scented tea. The texture is creamy; the taste sweet and lightly salty, with pepper in the finish and wood ash in the aftertaste. Best without reduction.

“Time and Tide wait for no man”, runs the saying.

Kirsteen Beeston, global head of the Jura brand says, somewhat obscurely: “The new 21YO pair, Time and Tide, amplify our island provenance story and capture the irresistible essence of what makes Jura so unique”. Is this Jura the island or Jura the brand?

Time is a travel retail bottling, Tide more generally available in the home market, both released in May 2019.

They join the core range of Journey, 10YO, 12YO, 18YO and Seven Wood, released in April last year, all with a suggestion of smokiness, which was formerly only apparent in occasional expressions of the make.

Jura Tide (and its sister) will only be available in restricted quantities due to the “limited availability of Jura’s older aged maturing inventory.” Each batch will state the bottling year on the label, in order to “denote the subtle variations in the batches as they are assembled.”

Such clarity is admirable. Matured first in ex-bourbon barrels and finished in virgin American oak, Jura Tide is a smooth and delectable whisky.

Although there had been a distillery at Craighouse, Jura, in the 19th Century, it closed in 1901 and the present distillery was established by two island landowners in 1963, with support from Scottish & Newcastle Breweries, via its subsidiary, Mackinlay Macpherson & Company.

Jura was designed by the leading distillery architect of the day William Delme Evans, who wrote. “It was our intention to produce a Highland- type malt, different from the typically peaty stuff last produced in 1900”. Accordingly, he specified unusually tall stills (7.7 metres), designed to increase reflux and contact between the alcohol vapour and the copper walls of the stills, and therefore to produce a light style of spirit.

The first Isle of Jura single malt was released in 1974.

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an elusive floral note and a suggestion of scented tea.

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The Tyrconnell 16 Year Old Oloroso & Moscatel Cask

Irish Single Malt Age: 16 Year Old

Vol: 46%

70CL £80

Pale amber in colour, with an initial aroma of malt loaf, with sultanas, almonds and kitchen spices (allspice, nutmeg and a trace of white pepper).

A mouth-filling, creamy texture and a sweet taste over all, slightly nutty, with a peppery, medium-length finish and nuts in the aftertaste.

Tyrconnell was a racehorse – a two-year-old chestnut colt, to be exact – which won the National Produce Stakes Horse Race at The Curragh (Ireland’s most prolific racecourse) in 1876, against all the odds.

Among those who witnessed this outstanding achievement was Andrew A. Watt, wine & spirits merchant and owner of the Waterside Distillery in Londonderry, who commemorated the event by naming a whiskey after the horse.

Soon after Mr. Watt bought Waterside (in 1830) he went into partnership with the Abbey Street Distillery nearby, where he commissioned Aeneas Coffey to install his new invention, the Patent/Coffey still for continuous distillation. Abbey Street soon became the largest distillery in Ireland, capable of producing two million gallons of spirit a year.

But, alas, although Old Tyrconnell was massively successful in the U.S., Prohibition put paid to all that: Watt’s distilleries were acquired by the Distillers Company Limited, which closed them in 1925.

The brand was bought by the remarkable Dr. John Teeling in the late 1980s. He had recently founded Cooley Distillery near Dundalk, Co. Louth, half way between Dublin and Belfast – well, had acquired a defunct chemical distillery on the site and converted it to produce pot still malt and patent still grain whiskeys.

Tyrconnell was to be a light, fruity single malt, but in 2007 the company began to release expressions finished in Madeira, Port and Sherry casks, all at 10 years old, followed (in 2018) by a 15 Year Old Madeira Cask Finish, and now this 16 Year Old, matured for most of its life in white oak ex-bourbon barrels, then transferred to casks seasoned first with Oloroso sherry, then with sweet Moscatel wine.

This is the only Irish whiskey of its kind on the market, and the oldest ever expression of Tyrconnell.

At the moment it is a limited release, but this may change… Buy now while stocks last!

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malt loaf, with sultanas, almonds and kitchen spices

Autumn 2019

Starward Nova Australian Single Malt Age: —

Vol: 41%

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75CL £55

Deep amber in hue, with ruby lights. The initial nose-feel is at once mellow and spicy, the latter fading rapidly. The aroma is profound – at once fruity (green apple, then swiftly caramelised baked apple), with suggestions of strawberry jam and summer pudding, but with a hint of sherbet. A smooth, mouth-filling texture and a sweet taste, mid-palate, the sherbet and spice combining across the tongue.

The New World Whisky Distillery which produces Starward single malts is in Melbourne, Victoria.

Recently it was named ‘Best Australian Innovator’ and in 2019 ‘Best Craft Whisky’ at the BBC Good Food Awards.

This expression has been wholly matured in uncharred Australian red wine barrels, fresh from the winery to ensure that the first incumbent impacts on the spirit. This makes perfect sense, since Melbourne is surrounded by some of Australia’s leading wine regions, all within a day’s drive. The city is also famous for its ‘four seasons in a day’ temperature swings, which makes for very rapid maturation and an angels’ share loss of around 12% per annum – readers will know that in Scotland we lose around 2% per annum. Three ‘Melbourne years’ is reckoned to equal 12 Scottish years, and the alcohol level increases rather than declines!

Commissioned in 2007, the New World Distillery was the brain-child of a local man, David Vitale. As well as being highly innovative – his slogan is ‘pushing the boundaries of what whisky can be’ – he wanted to produce a distinctively Australian whisky which could compete internationally in terms of quality and price.

Most Australian distilleries are very small, and often fill into quarter casks (which further speeds up the maturation), most of which have been seasoned with Apera (Australian sherry) or Tinto (Australian port).

As a result, since there are no economies of scale, Australian whiskies tend to be highly priced.

David began by buying a 1,800 litre wash still and a 600 litre spirit still from another Australian distillery in Mittagong, New South Wales, to produce around 20,000 cases a year. In 2015, Diageo’s subsidiary, Distill Ventures, invested a substantial sum in New World, allowing the distillery to increase production to 250,000 litres per annum, and, more importantly, to put Starward on the global stage.

I first tasted Starward and met David Vitale at The Whisky Show 2015 in London and was mightily impressed, then visited the distillery in 2018 and was doubly impressed. Nova is a delicious whisky, and happily does not even hint of maturation in red wine casks!

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suggestions of strawberry jam and summer pudding, but with a hint of sherbet.

Whiskeria

Autumn 2019

New Releases

The Loch Fyne The Living Cask Batch 8

Blended Malt Age: —

Vol: 43.6%

012

011

20

50CL £45

Pale gold in colour, with a light prickle. The nose is reminiscent of refill European oak – dried figs, sultanas, sweet malt, nuts, allspice – then develops a light vanilla sponge note, even a trace of milk chocolate.

A pleasant texture; a sweet taste, a gingery finish and a longish warming aftertaste.

These three malts have been selected and bottled by Loch Fyne Whiskies.

The Living Cask was first created by the founder of Loch Fyne Whiskies, Richard Joynson, in 1999, inspired by the renowned oenophile, Professor George Saintsbury (1845-1933), who wrote in his Notes on a Cellar Book (1920): “…The more excellent way – formerly practised by all persons of some sense and some means north of the Tweed – is to establish a cask…fill it up with good and drinkable whisky… stand it up on end, tap it half way down or even a little higher, and, when you get to or near the tap, fill it up again with whisky fit to drink, but not too old.

“You thus establish what is called in the case of sherry a ‘solera’, in which the constantly changing character of the old constituents doctors the new accessions, and in which these in turn freshen and strengthen the old.”

Each batch is subtly different, building on the flavour of the depleted stock of the previous batch – it might even be claimed that Batch 8 contains small amounts of whisky from Batch 1 in 1999!

“Sometimes I marvel at the supreme self-confidence that upheld me – a young man without capital and practically no knowledge of the business I was embarking in: a stranger too, amongst strangers in this great City of London”. So wrote James Buchanan, the founder of Glentauchers Distillery, who had gone to London in 1879, aged thirty, as the agent for Charles Mackinlay and Company, and who “resolved to start business on my own account” in 1884.

He borrowed the start-up money from William Phaup Lowrie, a leading broker and blender in Glasgow, and ten years later proposed to Lowrie that they build a distillery at Tauchers on Speyside, near Keith. By 1906, Buchanan was in a position to buy out Lowrie. James Buchanan & Co. was now numbered among ‘The Big

The Loch Fyne Glentauchers 11 Year Old Single Cask Speyside Single Malt Age: 11 Year Old Vol: 57.7%

50CL £75

Very deep amber – polished rosewood, with excellent beading. A profound, complex yet reserved aroma with light prickle: dry over all with sultanas and dried figs, crystallised orange peel, furniture polish, a hint of dark chocolate.

A mouth-filling texture and a taste which starts lightly sweet then becomes bone dry and gingery. A little water reduces the aroma but makes the palate more comfortable

Three’, along with Walkers and Dewars, and in 1925 all three amalgamated with the Distillers Company Limited.

Glentauchers was expanded from two to six stills in 1966, but was mothballed in 1985 and sold to Allied Distillers in 1989. Its current owner is Chivas Bros./ Pernod Ricard, who bought most of Allied’s Scotch whisky interests in 2005.

Examples of Glentauchers single malt are uncommon, although a 17YO was released under the Ballantine’s label in 2017.

Aultmore Distillery stands on the edge of a remote district known as the Foggie Moss, popular with smugglers during the 19th century. Even today, the Moss exudes an air of mystery: often shrouded in thick mist, with ruckles of stone marking former croft houses, gaunt dead trees and rank pasture yielding to heather-covered moor.

The founder was the remarkable Alexander Edward of Forres, [see Craigellachie] who had been the shooting tenant over the site for some years, renting from its owner, the Duke of Fife, and in 1896 purchased the land outright, together with a couple of farms, then sold it immediately to the Aultmore Distillery Company.

Work began on the site the same year, under the direction of Charles Doig of Elgin, who had designed Craigellachie Distillery six years earlier. It went into production in 1897 and was such a success that capacity was doubled (to 200,000 gallons per annum) within a year. Blenders ranked the make ‘Top Class’, and as a result it was very difficult to find as a single malt, although it was popular with the locals and the Buckie fisherman, only savoured by those who knew to ask at the local inn for 'a nip of the Buckie Road'!

Autumn 2019

New Releases

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The Loch Fyne Aultmore 12 Year Old Single Cask Speyside Single Malt Age: 12 Year Old Vol: 57.9%

New Releases

013

Whiskeria

50CL ÂŁ80

Deep amber in hue, with good beading. A mellow nose with light prickle: clean and fresh. Top notes of undercooked apple pie, slightly caramelised, on a base of double cream. The taste is sweet overall, drying with walnuts and spice in a long, warming finish. Water reduces the nose but sweetens the taste. An exceptional example of Aultmore.

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a light vanilla sponge note, even a trace of milk chocolate.

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dried figs, crystallised orange peel, furniture polish, a hint of dark chocolate.

top notes of undercooked apple pie, slightly caramelised, on a base of double cream.

014

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Whiskeria

Autumn 2019

New Releases

The First Editions Craigellachie 2008 Single Cask Speyside Single Malt Age: 10 Year Old Vol: 46%

70CL £70

Rich gold in colour, the nose offers moist fruit loaf, with sultanas, white pepper and allspice (suggesting the cask was Spanish oak), with a trace of gun-oil. Slightly eggy in the development. An oily texture, and a taste which starts sweet and finishes dry, with complex spices across the palate and a nutty aftertaste. Becomes sweeter with a dash of water.

This bottling is from Hunter Laing, released under their First Editions label, about which Andrew Laing, one of the company’s directors, writes: “As the name may suggest, each cask is carefully selected to evoke the qualities of a rare literary volume – those of character and collectability. Colour-coding on the labels denotes the particular regions the whiskies themselves are from and each bottle is individually numbered and presented in a gift tube. A First Editions bottling without doubt makes a valuable addition to anyone’s whisky library.”

Craigellachie Distillery was commissioned in 1891 by a local farmer/distiller, Alexander Edward, in partnership with Peter Mackie of Lagavulin Distillery, who had created the White Horse blend the year before. The spirit character is rich and heavy (Craigellachie has worm tubs) and very slightly peaty. It was the core malt for White Horse, a brand now owned by Diageo, while the distillery was sold to John Dewar & Sons (Bacardi) in 1998.

I have been told that Craigellachie-Glenlivet single malt was popular in officers’ messes before World War I, but since then the only proprietory bottling was in United Distillers’ Flora & Fauna series around 1990 until 2014, when Dewar’s released four expressions at 13, 17, 19 and 23 years old to widespread acclaim. This Hunter Laing bottling is from a single European oak refill cask.

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a trace of gun-oil. Slightly eggy in the development.

Autumn 2019

New Releases

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The Old Malt Cask Talisker 8 Year Old Single Cask Island Single Malt Age: 8 Year Old Vol: 50%

New Releases

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Whiskeria

70CL £115

Pale amber in colour, with very good beading. The aroma starts rich and sweet, drying gently with light spice. Top notes of fruit cake (with crystalised orange peel), give way to maritime scents (and boat varnish), becoming more mineralic with water. An oily texture and a succulent, sweet taste, with a shake of salt and a chilli finish.

Hunter Laing was formed in 2013, following the break up of the long-established firm, Douglas Laing & Co (founded 1948), and is owned by Stewart Laing and his sons, Scott and Andrew.

Stewart’s long experience and extensive stock of old whiskies makes it possible for the company to release a number of collections, including The Old Malt Cask (rare and old malts, bottled at 50%Vol without chill-filtration or colour adjustment, introduced in 1998) and Old & Rare (single casks of exceptional quality and rarity, bottled at cask strength).

Talisker describes itself simply as ‘Whisky made by the sea’, on account of the distillery being situated on the shore of Loch Harport, on the west coast of Skye.

The writer and broadcaster Derek Cooper referred to it as “the lava of the Cuillin” on account of its keynote spiciness. Robert Louis Stevenson memorably wrote in 1887: “The King o’drinks as I conceive it – Talisker, Islay and Glenlivet” – very high praise, since ‘Islay’ and ‘Glenlivet’ are both regions, not specific distilleries.

This young expression from a refill sherry cask well deserves such praise and is an excellent example of the make.

Talisker House and its estate was leased from the Macleod of Macleod by the brothers Hugh and Kenneth MacAskill, who came from the island of Eigg, in 1825.

Five years later they leased a further 21 acres of land at Carbost and founded their famous distillery, naming it after their elegant house. The local minister described “the erection and establishment of a distillery as one of the greatest curses that, in the ordinary course of Providence, could befall it [i.e. Carbost] or any other place.”

Uniquely among Highland distilleries, Talisker was triple distilled until 1928, when “it was discarded without any adverse effect upon the character of the product”, according to the learned historian Brian Spiller. This might be accounted for by the fact that the distillery has a unique configuration, with two wash stills and three spirit stills, all of them connected to worm tubs via extraordinary lyne arms with U-bends and purifier pipes.

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an oily texture and a succulent, sweet taste, with a shake of salt and a chilli finish

Whiskeria

Autumn 2019

Ledaig 6 Year Old

New Releases

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016

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GlenKeir Treasures Highland Single Malt Age: 6 Year Old

Vol: 40%

50CL £50

Watery gold in colour: shot silk. The top note is of lanolin, freshly washed natural wool jersey (damp), with a seaside background of crystal salt, on a base of aromatic oil. Fresh and fragrant. The taste comes as a surprise: surprisingly sweet, lightly salty/maritime, and faintly peaty. A delicious session malt. No need for water.

These two releases fall under The Whisky Shop’s GlenKeir Treasures, carrying the promise that “Using our own method, we select an individual cask that is perfect for drinking.”

Tobermory Distillery was built beside the Ledaig Burn, and the latter name has come to be used for the distillery’s peated expressions.

Pronounced ‘led-chick’, Ledaig is apparently a ‘safe haven’ in Gaelic, which well describes Tobermory Bay; the distillery itself was originally named Ledaig. It was founded in 1798 by John Sinclair who had arrived at the recently built ‘model village’ in the early 1790s with little money and successfully established himself as a merchant and ship owner.

Tobermory was designed by Thomas Telford (the Father of Civil Engineering) for the British Fisheries Society, and it was to the Society’s directors that Sinclair applied to lease 57 acres at Ledaig, to the south of the village. At first the directors refused permission to build a distillery and suggested a brewery, but within a year Sinclair had won their approval. As well as the distillery, he built a pier known as ‘Sinclair’s Quay’ and a substantial four-storey rubble warehouse, used for maturing whisky until 1982, when the then owner converted it into flats – a move much regretted by the current owner, the leading South African drinks company, Distell.

The Secret Highland 8 Year Old GlenKeir Treasures Single Cask Island Single Malt Age: 8 Year Old Vol: 40%

50CL £55

9CT gold; refill sherry butt. The overall aroma is of malt loaf, with sultanas, nuts, kitchen spice, edging towards fruit cake with crystallised orange; dry grass in base. Even a drop of water closes the nose. Sweet start, then a trace of acetone, drying lightly with some pepper in the finish.

We are not allowed to name the distillery which created The Secret Highland, for the simple reason that, since it is an independent bottling, the brand owner has no control over the flavour profile of the whisky and it may not match the house style of the distillery.

This is not uncommon, indeed some independent bottlers – notably the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, which has never revealed the distillery names on its labels – make a virtue of finding casks which display unusual characteristics. See if you can guess where this malt has come from…

Here are a couple of clues. First, it is bottled at an age which was more usual in the 1960s than it is today; the official bottling is at 12 years, with a 23YO being released in 2017.

Second, the distillery is among the most popular in the Highlands, attracting 86,000 visitors in 2017. Third, it has a whisky tasting bar made from an old mash tun.

And fourth, the distillery was named Aldour when it was founded in 1798, after the Allt Dour burn (‘the burn of the otter’) which flows close by. After the Battle of Culloden, the local laird, who had served as a captain in the Jacobite army, returned to his own country with a price on his head. He hid in the Allt Dour farmhouse, then escaped down the burn and climbed into an old oak tree close to where the distillery now stands until the red coats has passed by. Then he escaped to France.

Maybe The Secret Highland recollects this episode…

Whiskeria

Autumn 2019

New Releases

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New Releases

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fruit cake with crystallised orange; dry grass in base.

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A delicious session malt.

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Whiskeria

Autumn 2019

Industry Top-Up

Whisky News Autumn 2019 Noteworthy Auction Results 20,000 A bottle of Springbank 1919 50 Year Old has sold for a record price of £20,000 in June 2019.

The bottle was first auctioned for £6,800 in 2016, showing a huge increase in demand for the Campbeltown malt.

24,500 The Dalmore 1926 50 Year Old Decanter has been sold for a massive £24,500, marking another new record price. It was first auctioned for £4,850 in 2013.

625 The Daftmill 2006 Sherry Cask #39 was released just this year at a retail price of £150, yet has already achieved a fantastic £625 at auction – a promising sign for keen investors.

1,900 Laphroaig’s 1987 Single Cask 17 Year Old, released for the 2004 Fèis Ìle, has also caught attention at auction after gaining a record £1,900. It last sold in 2015 for £760.

1,750 Several bottles released for the Fèis Ìle 2019 have already been making waves at auction: the Bowmore 1997 Devil’s Cask Hand Filled 22 Year Old #666, retailed for £353, then fetched £1,750; the Bunnahabhain 1988 Champagne Finish, retiled for £425, achieved £1,300; and the Caol Ila 1990 Single Cask 28 Year Old, initially sold for £375, gained £800.

Stats & Sales There has been a 49.2% increase in the export of Scotch whisky, gin and other UK drinks to India during the year ending February 2019. This is part of a broader increase of 7% in the export of British spirits on the previous year, with non-EU countries accounting for 63.4% of exports. a Edrington-Beam Suntory UK has forecast that the whisky category will be worth £2.44bn by 2022 in their first Whisky Yearbook, which aims to become a vital resource for the UK whisky market. a Glencairn crystal and glassware manufacturers, run by the Davidson family, has reported its 15th consecutive year of growth after turnover reached £11.3 million in the 12 months to April 2019. Their sales have roughly doubled every five years since 2004. a Inver House has reported a sales increase of 7.4% in its 2018 fiscal year, bolstered by strong sales of Old Pulteney and Caorunn gin. The company’s single malt Scotch brands increased sales by more than 12%. a Edrington has reported a healthy 9% increase in revenue for year ending 31st March 2019. The increase is attributed to Highland Park, The Glenrothes, and Brugal rum. Profit was up 4%, with the two single malt brands and The Naked Grouse blended malt cited as key sources. a The Department for International Trade has reported a 300% increase in Irish whiskey sales in the last 10 years. A new flurry of Northern Irish distilleries in particular have been praised for their contribution to this, and things are only predicted to get better with production forecast to double by 2020. a More than two million people visited Scottish distilleries in 2018, prompting Scotch whisky tourism to reach record numbers. The SWA released the figures as part of its annual survey, which showed a 6.1% year-on-year rise.

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Brand News

The new Johnnie Walker Experience set to open on Edinburgh’s Princes Street at the end of 2020 will include a rooftop bar, open from 11am-midnight each day, in addition to a flagship retail space on the ground floor, an exhibition with guided tours on the first-tothird floors, and a unique events space and training academy on the fourth floor.

Bruichladdich is going green!

The innovative Islay distillery has unveiled plans to run entirely on renewable energy within the next five years. The move is part of a £20m investment that is to include new on-site maltings opening by 2023.

A significant fire in two of Jim Beam’s 126 Kentucky warehouses has ruined up to 45,000 barrels, estimated to be worth hundreds of millions of dollars.

Due to the relatively young age of the whisky, availability of the spirit to consumers is unlikely to be affected.

The Isle of Mull is set to welcome its first new distillery in 220 years. The new home of Scottish gin producer Whitetail, named after Europe’s largest bird of prey, will be based next to the whitetailed eagle’s nest at Tiroran Forest on the island. a Edinburgh’s first whisky distillery in almost a century officially opened on 30th July 2019. Holyrood Distillery will offer guided tours around its facility producing single malt whisky as well as gin and gin liqueurs. a Diageo’s plans to transform the Clynelish Distillery Visitor Centre have been given the go ahead by the Highland Council. The upgrades will include a new visitor experience, bar and tasting area, plus freshly landscaped surroundings. a Diageo have also invested US$10m in a new visitor centre at Bulleit Distilling Co. in Kentucky. Opened to the public in June, the site has become the 17th stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. a In June this year, Jura broadcast an unusual and exciting career opportunity, offering the position of Brand Home Manager at the island distillery. Watch this space! a

Hunter Laing have released the first whisky in their new Scarabus range, a non-age statement Islay single malt from an undisclosed distillery. Scarabus takes its name from the Nordic for ‘rocky place’, and is described as whisky for ‘those with a curious mind’.

Industry News The world’s largest private Scotch collection is set to remain on display in Edinburgh for a further 10 years. The Scotch Whisky Experience has been the custodian of the collection since 2009, following its acquisition by Diageo from Brazilian businessman Claive Vidiz. a Neelkanta Rao Jagdale, Chairman of Amrut Distilleries Ltd., and creator of India’s first single malt whisky, passed away on 9th May this year. a Demand for Japanese whisky has surged, causing the Nikkei Asian Review to declare a ‘Yamazaki Crisis’. Retailers are attributing the trend to a rumour that Suntory may soon suspend production of several lines. a Following in the successful footsteps of the Islay, Speyside and Campletown festivals, a new Highland Whisky Festival launched in May this year, spearheaded by Balblair, Clynelish, Glenmorangie, Old Pulteney, Dalmore, Singleton of Glen Ord, Tomatin and Wolfburn. a North Korea’s Samilpo Distillery has released the country’s first ever whisky.

The new brand’s design takes substantial inspiration from the iconic Johnnie Walker bottles. a A trio of entrepreneurs have launched the Whisky Cask Company. Specialising in whiskies aged in French oak that has previously held French wines, they offer a “platform which links distilleries, brands, brokers, and private investors.” a Researchers in Aberdeen have discovered the earliest known mention of a Scotch whisky still in the city’s Unesco-recognised Burgh Records. Written in 1505, the record references a still for making ‘aquavite’ – Latin for ‘water of life’ and the Middle Scots term for whisky.

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Whiskeria

Autumn 2019

A Time in History

To drink, or not to drink?

Brian Wilson looks at how Scotland’s bizarre and counterproductive licensing laws finally relaxed – a little…

— Illustration: Richard Littler / Scarfolk

❛

Exceptions to the 1913 Licensing Act… included the ancient right of ‘bona fide travelers’ to be served drink with food in a hotel if they had travelled at least three miles on a Sunday, when all pubs were firmly shut.

Astonishingly, this farce survived into the 1970s.

Scotland’s schizophrenic relationship with strong drink has long been reflected in its licensing laws. On one hand, we are the “wha’s like us?” extroverts, full of bonhomie. On the other, the stern frown of religious guilt has sought to constrain. Even now, we are hovering around a truce, several steps removed from a relaxed European-style normality.

As far back as 1699, women were banned from Scotland’s pubs (though they brewed the beer) for being “a great snare to the youth, and occasion for lewdness and debauchery”. It was always the women’s fault! Progress came slowly. It took almost three more centuries for many Scottish pubs to concede a ladies’ toilet. Hard drinking was for hard men; the paradox of a culture shaped by disapproval.

In the last century, licensing laws were largely conditioned by the Temperance (Scotland) Act of 1913 which, as the name suggests, was not on the side of liberalisation.

Pressures for a restrictive regime came not only from the churches – Catholic as well as Presbyterian – but also politicians. There was an extremely strong temperance strain to the early Labour movement as well as to the Liberals of Lloyd George. Drink and poverty went hand in hand. Attacking the symptom – availability

of alcohol – was less challenging than rooting out the cause.

The key innovation of the 1913 Act was veto polls which allowed local areas to vote on whether they should go ‘dry’ or allow pubs to operate. It took until 1920 for these votes to commence and almost 600 of them were petitioned for in licensing districts throughout Scotland. Initially, 40 voted for prohibition including substantial communities like Airdrie, Kirkintilloch and four districts within Glasgow.

The licensed trade fought back and within a decade, most had been overturned. However, Lerwick in the Shetland Islands remained (theoretically) dry until 1947 and Kirkintilloch was another famous survivor (before finally voting ‘wet’ in 1968) for reasons explained by the Scottish folk singer, Matt McGinn: “There are no pubs in Kirkintilloch, here’s the reason why; My brother and me, we went on a spree and drank the pubs all dry.”

The Glasgow prohibitions created a particular anomaly. As huge housing estates were created in the post-war years, there could be no pubs in the ‘dry’ territories. As late as 1968, Glasgow’s civic fathers voted to maintain that state of affairs.

This certainly contributed to a growing sense that while slum clearance and provision

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A Time in History

Discover the unique character of every single cask.

31

of modern housing had been wonderful and transformational, the absence of social facilities was building up problems for the future – as indeed proved to be the case.

Exceptions to the 1913 Act exerted influence for even longer than its central provision. These included the ancient right of ‘bona fide travelers’ to be served drink with food in a hotel if they had travelled at least three miles on a Sunday, when all pubs were firmly shut. Astonishingly, this farce survived into the 1970s. Another nonsense was the ‘table license’, to which I will return, that allowed drink to be served in hotels but only as an accompaniment to a meal.

It took until the 1970s for change to rear its head with a seminal report led by Dr. Christopher Clayson, a former President of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh, to whom Scotland – down to the present day – owes much for his civilising influence. Most of the Clayson recommendations were turned into law.

Until then, Scotland’s licensing laws were truly bizarre and, in terms of their stated objectives, utterly counter-productive. Pubs were darkened places, environments occupied almost entirely by men, where a 10pm curfew might have been designed to promote hard, fast drinking.

My own reporting experiences derived from the Hebrides where Licensing Boards were ritual, and often hilarious, battle-grounds for religion’s grim crusade against the long march of secularism and pleasure-seeking. Clutches of multi-denominational clerics would sit in the gallery, daring the unfortunate public representatives on the bench to defy their will.

I remember one such stand-off in Portree when, for some reason, a hotelier wished to relieve himself of a ‘Sunday license’ and was puzzled to find this was objected to by the usual suspects.

They were so used to objecting to everything, they had missed the point of detail that he actually wanted not to sell drink on Sundays!

Of course, many people found their own ways round the constraints of the licensing laws, and nowhere more so than in the Ness

area of the Isle of Lewis that became famed for bothans, which operated entirely outside the law until well into the 1970s. These evolved into democratic drinking-places, supplies bought collectively and shared without profit. They were strong reinforcers of Gaelic culture – ceilidh houses which, according to Iain Gordon MacDonald, had their origins in the 1930s when crofter housing standards began to improve and ‘social space’ was required elsewhere – exclusively, of course, by the men.

Iain Gordon, as chairman of the local football club, was instrumental in the eventual elimination of the bothans but in the most benign possible way. The end was signaled by a police raid on the Eoropie bothan in 1976 – one of eight operating at that time. This led to a celebrated case at Stornoway Sheriff Court in which the police witness chronicled the extensive stocks of spirits and vast quantity of ‘screwtops’ that had been alighted upon.

“And what conclusion did you reach?”, asked the Procurator Fiscal… The officer solemnly replied: “I came to the conclusion that this was a place used for drinking”.

While hating the bothans, the ever-vigilant clergy also resisted the granting of normal licences. Iain Gordon and his pals then caught onto one of the less-publicised aspects of Clayson’s reforms. A putative ‘social club’ could go direct to the Sheriff (at the safe distance of Inverness) to apply for a license – which is exactly what they did with great discretion.

Thus was born the Ness FC Social Club which flourishes to this day. The Eoropie bothan handed over the balance of its funds and, heaven forefend, women were treated as equals in the new surroundings as the bothans quietly faded away. Well, almost.

The farce of the ‘table licence’ – in other words, strong drink could be served but only as an accompaniment to food – was another source of merriment. It led to a police raid on an establishment called Borve House Hotel on the west side of Lewis. Of course, they found a few dog-eared sandwiches lying around and the place going like a fair. When the case came to court, the wily crofter witnesses were well-drilled. One after another, they solemnly testified that they had gone to Borve House Hotel that night for “a sandwich and a pint of beer”– always placing the emphasis on the sandwich. Eventually, the Fiscal grew fed up with this.

The Fiscal: “How far do you live from Borve House Hotel, Mr MacLeod, and how long does it take you to get there?”

The Witness: “Eight miles. Fifteen minutes on my bicycle”.

The Fiscal: “Now come, come, Mr MacLeod.

If it was a sandwich you wanted, wouldn’t you have it at home?”.

The Witness: “We don’t have the sliced bread in these parts”.

As the court erupted in laughter, the Fiscal became really annoyed: “Wouldn’t you be quicker cutting it?”.

The Witness: “That would depend on the knife”.

Game, set and match.

In the immediate post-Clayson period, Scotland partied. Our licensing laws were briefly much more liberal than in the rest of the UK. The change was startling and there were abuses, of course, but the general trend was towards a more relaxed attitude that might, in time, have translated into a significant culture change.

Inevitably, however, a push-back began and has continued. Getting the balance right between liberalisation and attitudes towards strong drink that have been formed over centuries remains challenging for Scotland.

In 2003, the Nicholson Report returned to much the same remit as Clayson had been given 30 years earlier. It entered an immediate caveat: “Many of the problems are deeply ingrained in the Scottish psyche and reform of the law will not of itself bring about changes”.

The report also noted that since the great majority of Scots “drink sensibly and responsibly, the licensing system should be as free of restrictions as possible”. We can all raise a glass to that.

Knowledge Bar Dr. Christopher Clayson The revolutionary Clayson Committee Report originally called for: Optional increase of 31-per cent in the permitted hours of opening as a means of relaxing the social pressure to drink. The act itself allowed only a maximum of 12-per cent.

Children's certificates for pubs, permitting families to come in and drink as a group, if the establishment met specific standards.

Of the report, Dr. Clayson said: "My own view is that we have perhaps achieved half of what I personally would have hoped for. To that extent it was an opportunity lost," Dr. Clayson said. "What we said was that the introduction of children to alcohol should just be part of normal family life."

Clayson’s report cited four units a day as ‘moderate’ alcohol intake, and he followed his own advice: ”I have my four units every day - a sherry and a couple of glasses of claret with a meal, " he said.

"The problems start when you take the whole week's allocation in one day or over a weekend. The liver can't cope." Sourced from The Herald, 2005

A Time in History

❛ Many people found their own ways round the constraints of the licensing laws, and nowhere more so than in the Ness area of the Isle of Lewis that became famed for bothans which operated entirely outside the law until well into the 1970s.

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Autumn 2019

Travel

Small Nation, Big Heart Claire Bell learns the story of eSwatini, where conservation is the key to a rich culture —

Knowledge Bar eSwatini

Formerly Swaziland, renamed as Kingdom of eSwatini in 2018 by King Mswati III to mark the country’s 50th birthday eSwatini means ‘place of the Swazi’ in the Swazi language Capitals: Mbabane, Lobamba Currency: Swazi lilangeni King: Mswati III Population: 1.367 million (2017)

eSwatini is a good place to be an elephant.

Not only is this a country where the king is a conservationist and the law decrees that anyone caught poaching has to serve a lengthy jail sentence and pay for a replacement animal, but the eastern lowveld is thick with marula trees, the elephant’s favourite nibble – or should we say, tipple?

Over the centuries, travellers to Africa have handed down stories of ‘drunk’ elephants. The story goes they get a buzz off the marula fruit, which first ripens on the tree and then falls to the ground where it begins to ferment.

Today scientists argue this simply isn’t possible. For a start, elephants prefer to eat the unfermented fruit still hanging on the tree, and besides, it would take about 1,400 fermenting marulas to intoxicate these giants.

But while elephants might not partake in nature’s free high, the Swazi people certainly do. Every February, this small nation landlocked between South Africa and Mozambique, hosts two festivals to celebrate the start of marula season.

In the weeks leading up to it, women and children gather the fermenting fruit off the ground, then mix it with water and sugar to create bunganu, marula beer, with women competing to create the best brews, and His Majesty King Mswati III joining lively regiments in celebrations of song and dance.

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For the independent traveller looking for a relaxed and uncommercialized taste of Africa, eSwatini is a great amuse bouche.

For the independent traveller looking for a relaxed and uncommercialized taste of Africa, eSwatini is a great amuse bouche.

It may be only a four-hour drive from downtown Johannesburg, but this land of misty green mountains and endless savannah feels like a real-life Wakanda – the fictional African land of Marvel comics, where the black man is not weighed down by a legacy of racial oppression.

Ironically, part of the reason eSwatini – formerly known as Swaziland – was able to keep its dignity intact, was thanks to the protection of Britain.

After the Anglo-Boer war, they asked Queen Victoria if they could become a protectorate of Britain, rather than be absorbed into South Africa with its then racially oppressive attitudes and later laws.

“They feared her less,” wrote one author on the subject.

But although life was uncomplicated for the Swazis during the last century, the wild animal population suffered. Much of the eastern lowveld was used for royal hunting, and rhino, elephants

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and lions were hunted to extinction within the country’s borders.

Things slowly began to change after the country regained full independence in 1968 and Ted Reilly, a Swazi citizen, came to the then king, Sobhuza II, with his idea of creating a national park system that would protect and rekindle the country’s nature.

“Wearing animal skins is part of our culture, but how can you wear skins if you have killed all the animals?” says guide Sandile Mashaba. “There was a realisation that unless we protected our natural heritage, we would lose our culture.”

With the support of the king, Reilly began by turning his family’s tin mine and farm into a nature sanctuary. It was an ambitious project, labelled by some “an impossible dream”, but slowly it was remodified to develop wetlands and nesting sites, indigenous vegetation and wildlife were reintroduced, and today Mliliwane – which means ‘little fire’ – is the kingdom’s most popular eco-destination and is regarded as the fire that ignited the conservation movement in eSwatini.

It’s here, in this malaria-free park, where blesbok roam among impala, wildebeest, nyala and zebra, that Swazi children are educated about the importance of conservation.

“They come in big numbers. In fact 50% of the attendance of our parks is local, and that I think is better than anywhere in Africa,” says Reilly.

Accommodation is in a small camp of traditional beehive huts of woven grasses, where nyala and zebra frequently graze outside your door, and where the camp restaurant overlooks a large pool of hippos and crocodile (who thankfully keep to themselves), sacred ibis, fish eagles, herons and kingfishers.

Staying here feels like being in an African Jungle Book – an enchanting, relaxed wildlife playpark – and is a window on what life could be like if we were able to live more in harmony with nature.

It is, however, the country’s treatment of rhinos which is perhaps its most impressive tale. Rhino horn is more valuable than gold and South Africa loses more than three rhinos a day to poaching, while eSwatini has lost just three in 26 years.

White and black rhinos live among the re-introduced population of elephants and lions in the national parks of Mkhaya and Hlane, often touted as two of the best places in Africa to experience these magnificent beasts.

With high electric fences, camouflaged watchtowers and gun-toting guards, at first it feels like entering an armed camp, but once you’re inside, the horizons seem to stretch to the end of the world, there are few other tourist vehicles, and you can take heart that eSwatini is a Noah’s Ark of endangered species.

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Brilliant Bars +Radical Restaurants +Awesome Attractions ➛ Armed with recommendations from The Whisky Shop staff and a handful of W Club locals, Whiskeria set forth to discover the best bars, restaurants and attractions York has to offer.

Turn the page for our ultimate guide to the historical city...

Travel

Tour Guide York

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New! York.

❀✿❀✿❀✿❀✿❀ Yorkie Bars ➘

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The Whisky Shop, York

11 Coppergate Walk YO1 9NT

——————————————————— 1 Pairings Wine Bar 28 Castlegate, York YO1 9RP | pairings.co.uk

Who doesn’t love a good food and drink pairing?

Swap your whisky for wine and settle down for a glass, bottle or flight of wine paired with delicious platters, small plates, charcuterie or cheese.

——————————————————— 2 The Stone Roses Bar 4 King St, York YO1 9SP

Our York staff confirm that this Britpop inspired venue is “a gritty and lively bar playing proper rock music”.

——————————————————— 3 Pavement Vaults

❁ Lee, our Shop Manager

❁ Simon, Sales Assistant

2 Piccadilly, York YO1 9NU | pavementvaults.co.uk

❁ Pete, who has worked with us for 16 years!

Lee: Favourite place to eat: "Rustique on either Lendal or Castlegate – French Bistro with great food and a good atmosphere." / Best place to go: "Museum Gardens. It’s a beautiful setting in the heart of the city centre in front of the Yorkshire museum. Great in the summer for a picnic." / Hidden gem: "Shambles Tavern – it looks small from the front but has a great beer garden out back overlooking the Shambles market. Serving local craft beers and ciders."

Simon: Favourite place to eat: "Goji vegetarian cafe and deli on Goodramgate." / Hidden gem: "Thomas's of York, which is a quirky bar with some interesting wall art. It’s got a friendly atmosphere and is a good place to go for an after work drink before getting the train." / Best place to go: Rainbows ceramics on Bootham. A great way to spend an afternoon creatively – you get to make and paint your own plates and mugs etc., totally unique to you.

I also enjoy walking the walls for a relaxing day out."

Pete: Favourite place to eat: "A small independent Sciilian restaurant called Il Paradisco del Cibo on Walmgate." / Hidden gem: "York Arms – I like a good old traditional Sam Smiths pub, which is brewed just up the road in Tadcaster." / Best things to do: "I like anything to do with Italy, so it’s no surprise my favourite restaurant is Italian! But I also have about 10 Italian bicycles which I enjoy riding around the city."

It’s the basement filled with cosy booths that makes Pavement Vaults particularly inviting on a typical Yorkshire autumn night. Along with a meaty menu of burgers and grill classics, they also boast a strong beer, whisky and gin offering.

——————————————————— 4 The Hop York 11–12 Fossgate, York YO1 9TA

A unique real ale house that’s not short of impressive original features. Along with great local brews, you can also enjoy delicious stone baked pizza and regular live music.

——————————————————— 5 The Whippet Inn 15 North St, York YO1 6JD | thewhippetinn.co.uk

Steak and ale are a match made in heaven, and this cheekily named pub does both to perfection. It’s worth noting that this is a venue strictly for grown ups to enjoy.

——————————————————— 6 The Fox

——————————————————— 8 Piviní 6 Patrick Pool, York YO1 8BB | pivni.co.uk

If you want a taste of York history with your pint, look no further. The award-winning craft beerhouse occupies a wonky sixteenth century timber-framed building on Patrick Pool – the bar is a great spot for people watching.

——————————————————— 9 The Punch Bowl 7 Stonegate, York YO1 8AN | nicholsonspubs.co.uk

Recommended to us by the staff at Piviní, The Punch Bowl is a proper British pub in a proper British building that grandly claims to be the most haunted in York!

——————————————————— 10 Brew York Unit 6, Enterprise Complex, Walmgate, York YO1 9TT | brewyork.co.uk

Drink your beer where it’s made at this centrally located brewery and taproom.

——————————————————— 11 The Kings Arms The Kings Arms Pub, King's Staith, York YO1 9SN

Meander down to the water’s edge and enjoy the warmer days of autumn with a drink outside this traditional pub with plenty of riverside seating.

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168 Holgate Rd, York YO24 4DQ | ossett-brewery.co.uk

This is the sister venue to The Hop York, and shares many of the same attributes in a slightly more cosy and intimate setting.

——————————————————— 7 Cave du Cochon 19 Walmgate, York YO1 9TX | caveducochon.uk

‘A wine bar by Le Cochon Aveugle’ offering a more casual alternative to the sleek formality of the restaurant, but with the same dedication to flavour and innovation.

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——————————————————— 12 The Maltings Tanner's Moat, York YO1 6HU | maltings.co.uk

With its tiny wooden bar serving an impressive selection of real ales, a collection of antique tin signs that spread across both walls and ceiling, and brand new terrace area, it’s no surprise that this little station-side pub draws a lively crowd throughout the week.

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❁ effortless eccentricity which keeps locals and visitors coming back time again —

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The Botanist York

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House of Trembling Madness

48 Stonegate, York YO1 8AS | tremblingmadness.co.uk

Everyone we spoke to about York told us to visit the House of Trembling Madness. The original venue, located on Stonegate, occupies the city’s first Norman house, built in 1180AD and, more recently, was named the UK’s Independent Craft Beer Retailer of the Year 2019. It’s immediately obvious that the accolade is well-deserved – floor to ceiling shelves in the ground floor shop display a dizzying library of ales, porters, lagers, pilsners and beyond.

Ascend the rickety staircase, and you’re transported to a bar that embodies controlled chaos. Beastly mounted heads roar from between ancient beams as the wee corner bar churns out unusual brews and heaving platters of local pies, cheese, meats and veg. Everything feels just a little off kilter – literally and figuratively – and it’s that effortless eccentricity which keeps locals and visitors coming back time again.

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The Grand

15-19 Stonegate, York YO1 8ZW | thebotanist.uk.com

Station Rise, York YO1 6GD | thegrandyork.co.uk

A newer addition to the city’s drinks scene, The Botanist is a light and airy bar with an imaginative cocktail menu and live music every night of the week.

The clue is in the name of Yorkshire’s only 5 star hotel. Everything here is magnificent, from the architecture and furnishings, to the incredible collection of old, rare, limited edition and classic whiskies. And of course, the cocktail menu is a masterpiece of flavour in itself.

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❀✿❀✿❀✿❀✿❀ Breakfast, Lunch & Tea (or just a cuppa) ➘

——————————————————— 1 Love Cheese 16 Gillygate, York YO31 7EQ | lovecheese.co.uk

Regulars at The Whisky Shop tasting evenings in York may be familiar with the produce from this fantastic fromagerie, as we love to pair their cheese with our whiskies. Cheesemonger by day, the shop also hosts its own events by night for dedicated dairy addicts.

——————————————————— 2 Source The Deli 7 Jubbergate, York YO1 8RT

If you’re after some feel-good food, look no further than this locally run deli sitting on a cute corner of Jubbergate, serving up a menu of meaty and meatfree delights. A favourite of our store manager Lee. ——————————————————— 3 Coffee Culture 41 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LS

“Superb coffee, great food and friendly staff.” This glowing endorsement from W Club member Mark Sullivan sums up why this cute city café is a mustvisit for caffeine fiends.

——————————————————— 4 The Pig 35 Bishopthorpe Rd, York YO23 1NA | thepigandpastry.com

Named one of the top 50 places for breakfast in the UK by the Guardian and one of the best places to eat in York by BBC Good Food Magazine in 2017, The Pig is well worth the short walk out of the city centre. It’s situated on Bishopthorpe Street, one of the best independent streets in the UK.

——————————————————— 5 Mr. P’s Curious Tavern 71 Low Petergate, York YO1 7HY | mrpscurioustavern.co.uk

Touted by both manager Lee, and W Club member Andrew, as one of the best eateries in the city, this quirkily named restaurant is situated in a Grade II listed building, replete with curios and charming features. Established by Andrew Parr, co-patron of the Michelin starred Star Inn at Harome, it serves a menu of imaginative dishes based on pub grub classics.

——————————————————— 6 Rustique 28 Castlegate, York YO1 9RP | rustiqueyork.co.uk

A taste of classic French cuisine to add some sunshine to even the dreariest of Yorkshire autumn days!

Reasonably priced, locally sourced, and traditionally cooked, Rustique is a true crowd pleaser.

——————————————————— 7 Barbakan Restaurant & Café 58 Walmgate, York YO1 9TL | deli-barbakan.co.uk

Another continental treat in the heart of Yorkshire, this time in the form of traditional Polish fare.

What better way to warm your cockles after a day exploring the cobbled streets, or a long walk across the nearby Yorkshire Dales or Yorkshire Moors?

——————————————————— 8 Los Moros Shambles Food Court Shambles Market, York YO1 7LA | losmorosyork.co.uk

Tucked away in the Shambles food court, this North African restaurant is easy for visitors to miss. A favourite of The Whisky Shop staff, it serves up a menu of cleverly spiced fresh fish, meat and veggies all sourced from local suppliers.

——————————————————— 9 Go Down Restaurant York House, 15 Clifford Street, York YO1 9RG | thegodown.co.uk

Former Whisky Shop employee and local whisky legend Gary (now of Yorkshire Distillery) is a huge fan of this authentic English restaurant, and it’s not hard to see why, with it’s menu of the best local ingredients crafted into generous portions.

——————————————————— 10 Yak & Yeti Gurkha Restaurant 63A Goodramgate, York YO1 7LS | yakyetiyork.co.uk

Another favourite of our store manager Lee, who is something of a world food connoisseur! This restaurant, which is closely linked to the Gurkha Signal Squadron based at nearby Imphal Barracks, serves typical Nepalese cuisine in a relaxed setting.

——————————————————— 11 Mumbai Lounge 47 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF | mumbailoungeyork.co.uk

❁ 26 | Brew & Brownie: mouth-watering home baking and the aroma of freshly ground coffee —

The North of England is a hot spot for great Indian and Bangladeshi cuisine, and Mumbai Lounge is possibly the best place in the city to try some. Even better, it’s just a hop, skip and a jump from our York store.

——————————————————— 12 Delrio's Restaurant 10–12 Blossom St, York YO24 1AE | delriosrestaurant.com

A great, family-run Italian is a staple for any city, and Delrio’s is arguably the finest in York. The atmospheric cellar restaurant has been run by Giovanni Delrio for 26 years, which is testament to quality in itself.

——————————————————— 13 Betty’s Café Tea Rooms 6–8 St. Helen’s Square, York YO1 8QP / 46 Stonegate, York YO1 8AS | bettys.co.uk

A Yorkshire institution, with vintage cruise-liner inspired interiors, Betty’s website claims ‘no visit to York is complete without a visit to our famous Café Tea Rooms’, and our W Clubbers agree!

——————————————————— 14 Goji Cafe 36 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LF | gojicafe.co.uk

York’s vegan and vegetarian offering is flourishing, and this Goodramgate café is leading the way with everything from burgers to Eastern inspired platters, and quiches to beautiful baked goods.

——————————————————— 15 Skosh 98 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX | skoshyork.co.uk

W Clubber Andrew Stone recommends Skosh as one of his top places to eat in York: expect a small but perfectly formed menu of contemporary British cuisine with international influences, served in a cosy, relaxed venue on popular Micklegate.

——————————————————— 16 Roots York 68 Marygate, York YO30 7BH | rootsyork.com

‘The next chapter’ from the team behind Michelin-starred The Black Swan at Oldstead’ is a promising prospect, and it delivers on all expectations. Described as a ‘plate sharing’ restaurant, it has already won high acclaim from food critics across the UK. ——————————————————— 17 Le Cochon Aveugle 37 Walmgate, York YO1 9TX | lecochonaveugle.uk

Fans of new exciting flavours and inspired combinations shouldn’t miss out on the imaginative, contemporary cuisine that has put this tasting menu restaurant firmly on York’s foodie map.

——————————————————— 18 Arras The Old Coach House, Peasholme Green, York YO1 7PW | arrasrestaurant.co.uk

Our W Clubbers obviously have impeccable taste, so we don’t doubt the recommendation for this intriguing modern restaurant to the North of the city centre, which originally started life as a showcase of modern British cuisine in Sydney, Australia

Partisan

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112 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX | partisanuk.com

The owners of Partisan are playing a dangerous game: they have achieved the near impossible task of creating a venue that is inherently chic, warmly welcoming, and which serves some of the very best food you’ll ever eat, available all day long for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is dangerous because it is the sort of place you never want to leave. If we didn’t have a train to catch, I suspect we’d still be sitting at our rustic corner table, belts loosened, covered in crumbs from globally-inspired breakfasts and an array of gooey, fruit laden brownies. Our photographer, Brian, confidently claims that the Persian Eggs (scrambled with dates and spices) are the best breakfast he has ever eaten, and Brian has eaten breakfasts all over the world!

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❁ a venue that is inherently chic, warmly welcoming, and which serves some of the very best food you’ll ever eat…

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The Rattle Owl

104 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX | rattleowl.co.uk

Housed in a gorgeously restored, Grade II listed, 17th century building on historic Micklegate, The Rattle Owl is the epitome of antique charmmeets-contemporary cool. Everything on the menu is thoughtfully selected and beautifully presented, from the eclectic wines and diverse list of locally brewed beers, to a concise à la carte that showcases the very best of British. With its velvet arm-chaired waiting area, long twinkling dining room, and staff whose attention to detail is unparalleled, The Rattle Owl manages to stand out from the crowd without making any fuss.

Top tip: ask for Laurissa’s genius Benromach Organic whisky sour infused with tonka bean – you won’t regret it.

❁ the epitome of antique charm-meetscontemporary cool…

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——————————————————— 21 Little Italy 12 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LQ | littleitalyrestaurantyork.co.uk

Ristorante, deli, and all-round impressive showcase of great Italian fare, Little Italy does exactly what is says on the sign, transporting your taste buds across the Mediterranean one sip, or bite, at a time.

——————————————————— 22 Kiosk Café

❀✿❀✿❀✿❀✿❀ Legendary Attractions ➘

41 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF

Make sure you don’t miss this wee unassuming gem on bustling Fossgate – as well as serving up some of the best coffee, brunch and lunch about, it also sells art and craft pieces by local artists.

——————————————————— 23 Shutishuti Patisserie

Museum St, York YO1 7FR | yorkshiremuseum.org.uk

Located around the Museum Gardens, York Venues includes Yorkshire Museum, York Art Gallery, Medieval church turned contemporary arts venue York St.Mary’s, and more. It’s the perfect place to pass a day immersing yourself in the city’s culture and heritage.

——————————————————— 7 York Chocolate Story

15 Blake St, York YO1 8QJ | ippukuteahouse.com

“Artisan Coffee and homemade cakes, plus reclaimed 1600's furniture” make this another favourite of our discerning store manager Lee. Who are we to argue?

——————————————————— 26 Brew & Brownie 5 Museum St, York YO1 7DT | brewandbrownie.co.uk

A counter of mouth-watering home baking and the aroma of freshly ground coffee make Brew & Brownie the ideal place to grab a brew & brownie, flapjack, cake or whatever else takes your fancy to enjoy in the nearby Museum Gardens.

——————————————————— 27 The Hairy Fig 39 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF | thehairyfig.co.uk

We could’ve spent hours in The Hairy Fig. The tiny half deli half café is a veritable treasure trove of foodie delights, spilling its charming wares and fresh flower adornments out over Fossgate to lure you in.

———————————————————

Good neighbours are hard to come by, but we’ve struck gold with ours at The Whisky Shop, York!

Popular with visitors of all ages, we recommend booking ahead to visit the world-famous reconstruction of an authentic Viking settlement.

——————————————————— 5 The York Dungeon A great one for rainy days, The York Dungeon descends through over 2000 years of the city’s most gruesome history.

——————————————————— 6 York Venues

This self-proclaimed ‘micro patisserie’ promises produce led, seasonal baking inspired by art and nature. The patron pastry chef, Eszter, creates truly beautiful bakes in collaboration with Food Circle York and Kiosk (see above!)

——————————————————— 24 Ippuku Tea House

45 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF | springespresso.co.uk

19 Coppergate, York YO1 9WT | jorvikvikingcentre.co.uk

12 Clifford St, York YO1 9RD | thedungeons.com

3 Baile Hill Terrace, York YO1 6HF

Swap Japanese whisky for Japanese teas at this authentic East Asian tea house. Yet further proof of York’s progressive culinary scene, the venue also offers an enticing range of gluten free and vegan treats, with a parasol shaded courtyard to enjoy it all in.

——————————————————— 25 Spring Espresso

——————————————————— 4 Jorvik Viking Centre

3-4 Kings Square, York YO1 7LD | yorkschocolatestory.com

——————————————————— 1 York Minster Deangate, York YO1 7HH | www.yorkminster.org

Officially titled The Cathedral and Metropolitical Church of Saint Peter in York, this Gothic masterpiece is quite literally unmissable. One of the largest of its type in Northern Europe, the vast structure of intricately carved stone and impressive stained glass has stood over the city since the 7th century.

——————————————————— 3 Museum Gardens Museum St, York YO1 7FR | yorkshiremuseum.org.uk

Located to the North West of the city centre, these beautiful gardens are the perfect place to take a time-out from sight-seeing, and (weather permitting) enjoy a treat from the Ice Cream Rescue hut, located at the main entrance.

York was once home to some of the biggest names in British confectionary, including Rowntree’s, Terry’s and Carvens, and the air was filled with the sweet smell of chocolate. This experience invites you to ‘Unwrap the History of Chocolate’ through a deliciously informative guided tour.

——————————————————— 8 York Cocoa Works 10 Castlegate, York YO1 9RG | yorkcocoaworks.co.uk

Simultaneously preserving York’s chocolate heritage and taking chocolate production, appreciation and education firmly into the 21st Century, York Cocoa Works is an entirely different type of sweet treat.

Read more in My Craft, p44 ——————————————————— 9 York Maze York Maze, Elvington Ln, York YO19 5LT | yorkmaze.com

Swap the maze of cobbled streets for a different type of activity with a trip just outside the city centre to get lost in Europe’s biggest maize maze.

——————————————————— 11 National Railway Museum Leeman Rd, York YO26 4XJ | railwaymuseum.org.uk

Trainspotting made easy! The nation’s official railway museum is a true nostalgia trip, offering a journey through a world of travel history.

——————————————————— 12 York Theatre Royal St Leonard's Pl, York YO1 7HD | yorktheatreroyal.co.uk

Dating back to 1744, York Theatre Royal is the epicentre of the city’s cultural offering, with a jam-packed schedule of theatrical delights all year round, including plenty of Shakespeare for a quintessentially English experience.

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York City Walls

Arguably the best way to get around York, a walk along the city walls gives you a whole new perspective on the city below. Although established by the Romans in 71AD, the walls you can walk today date from between the 12th and 14th centuries, with regular steps leading down to street level.

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Shambles

Shambles, York YO1

According to our York manager, Lee, “If you like Harry Potter this is the street for you”, and it’s not hard to see why! Rumoured as the inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s Diagon Alley, there’s definitely something magical about the crooked 14th century houses and winding cobbled walkway of this historic street.

SPARK: York

17–21 Piccadilly, York YO1 9PB | sparkyork.org

Within York’s ancient walls a fresh movement is stirring, and the new energy is nowhere more palpable than at Spark:York. Their strapline ‘Eat/ Drink/Shop/Hire’ neatly summarises the simple objective of the revolutionary venue which aims to “reinvent civic spaces and re-energise Piccadilly” (its location at the foot of Fossgate). Trendily built from shipping containers, and emblazoned with the appropriate statement ‘Welcome to [New] York’ at the entrance, Spark is home to a new wave of healthy fast food, cute gift shops, bars that take ‘craft’ seriously, great coffee, and a calendar of events for all ages. We commandeered one of the vibrant picnic tables for a lunch of seafood tacos and a hearty salmon bowl from Fish & Forest, and what may be the world’s best fried chicken burger from Clucking Oinks. Currently, the installation only has permission to operate until 2020, so make sure you visit before it’s too late!

❁ Spark is home to a new wave of healthy fast food, cute gift shops, bars that take ‘craft’ seriously, great coffee, and a calendar of events for all ages.

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Tour Guide York Directory GIL LYG AT E

LO RD MA YO R’S

1

WA LK TE GA NK MO

2

SHAMBLES

QUEE N ST

E AT SSG FO

CA ST LE GA TE

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PICADILLY

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E RIV

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WALMGATE WA LM GAT E

CLIFFORD’S TOWER

NU NN ER YL N

BL OS SO M

ST

FOSSGATE

10 7 19 7

T RS WE TO

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4 11 25 27

LLY DI CA PI

YORK

LK E WA GAT ER PP CO

MICKELGATE

TE GA VY DA

E AT ELG CK MI

NT ME VE PA

4

TE GA ER PP O C

NORTH ST

YORK

14 13

T YS NE CO

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ST ON EB OW

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S BLE AM SH

N IO AT ST

E GAT LIER COL

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GOODRAMGATE

10 8

LE ND AL

JEWBURY

TH E

E AT EG ON ST

E AT RG TE PE

STONEGATE

3 21 16

DEANGATE

GOODRA MGATE

MUSEUM GDNS

YORK MINSTER

W LO

15 9 13 15

3 6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Pairings Wine Bar 28 Castlegate, York YO1 9RP The Stone Roses Bar 4 King St, York YO1 9SP Pavement Vaults 2 Piccadilly, York YO1 9NU The Hop York 11–12 Fossgate, York YO1 9TA The Whippet Inn 15 North St, York YO1 6JD The Fox 168 Holgate Rd, York YO24 4DQ Cave du Cochon 19 Walmgate, York YO1 9TX Piviní 6 Patrick Pool, York YO1 8BB The Punch Bowl 7 Stonegate, York YO1 8AN Brew York Unit 6, Enterprise Complex, Walmgate, York YO1 9TT The Kings Arms The Kings Arms Pub, King's Staith, York YO1 9SN The Maltings Tanner's Moat, York YO1 6HU The Botanist York 15–19 Stonegate, York YO1 8ZW The Grand Station Rise, York YO1 6GD House of Trembling Madness 48 Stonegate, York YO1 8AS

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Love Cheese 16 Gillygate, York YO31 7EQ Source The Deli 7 Jubbergate, York YO1 8RT Coffee Culture 41 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LS The Pig 35 Bishopthorpe Rd, York YO23 1NA Mr. P’s Curious Tavern 71 Low Petergate, York YO1 7HY Rustique 28 Castlegate, York YO1 9RP Barbakan Restaurant & Café 58 Walmgate, York YO1 9TL Los Moros Shambles Food Court Shambles Market, York YO1 7LA Go Down Restaurant York House, 15 Clifford Street, York YO1 9RG Yak & Yeti Gurkha Restaurant 63A Goodramgate, York YO1 7LS Mumbai Lounge 47 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF Delrio's Restaurant 10–12 Blossom St, York YO24 1AE Partisan 112 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX The Rattle Owl 104 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX Betty’s Café Tea Rooms 6–8 St. Helen’s Square, York YO1 8QP / 46 Stonegate, York YO1 8AS

16 Goji Cafe

1 York Minster

17

2 York City Walls

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

36 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LF Skosh 98 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX Roots York 68 Marygate, York YO30 7BH Le Cochon Aveugle 37 Walmgate, York YO1 9TX Arras The Old Coach House, Peasholme Green, York YO1 7PW Little Italy 12 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LQ Kiosk Café 41 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF Shutishuti Patisserie 3 Baile Hill Terrace, York YO1 6HF Ippuku Tea House 15 Blake St, York YO1 8QJ Spring Espresso 45 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF Brew & Brownie 5 Museum St, York YO1 7DT The Hairy Fig 39 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF

Deangate, York YO1 7HH

3 Museum Gardens

Museum St, York YO1 7FR

4 Jorvik Viking Centre

19 Coppergate, York YO1 9WT

5 The York Dungeon

12 Clifford St, York YO1 9RD

6 York Venues

Museum St, York YO1 7FR

7 York Chocolate Story

3-4 Kings Square, York YO1 7LD

8 York Cocoa Works

10 Castlegate, York YO1 9RG

9 York Maze

York Maze, Elvington Ln, York YO19 5LT

10 Shambles

Shambles, York YO1

11 National Railway Museum

Leeman Rd, York YO26 4XJ

12 York Theatre Royal

St Leonard's Pl, York YO1 7HD

13 SPARK: York

17–21 Piccadilly, York YO1 9PB

The Whisky Shop, York 11 Coppergate Walk YO1 9NT

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Refreshingly Different

Serve The Loch Fyne Chocolate & Orange Liqueur in a tall glass over ice, topped up with equal parts full fat milk and soda water, accompanied by a square of dark chocolate.

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Cocoa Loco My Craft

We took time out on our visit to the Chocolate City to meet Sophie Jewett, founder of York Cocoa Works, whose mission is to spread the gospel of good chocolate.

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Photography: Brian Sweeney

Knowledge Bar York Cocoa Works

Founder: Sophie Jewett Location: 10 Castlegate, York, YO1 9RN — 01904 675787 Chocolate Manufactory Guided Tour: £7.50 The Afternoon Chocolate Menu is available on Sunday Afternoons.

Various classes and workshops are available throughout the year. For the full timetable, or to buy a gift voucher, visit yorkcocoahouse.co.uk

What inspired you to work with chocolate, and ultimately establish York Cocoa Works?

I really loved chocolate as a child, and loved making things with chocolate. I was fascinated by how chocolate worked and tried making things with it when I was younger, but got really frustrated when they didn’t go as I wanted them to – it was a much more technically challenging product than I’d realised!

Later, I was working within the food and drink industry in the region, creating foods for historical banquets and looking at just how rich York’s food culture was. That meant working with lots of amazing foods, from origin cheeses, to wines and beers, and also starting to understand more about York’s confectionary heritage and that identity within the city.

I became fascinated with that concept of confectionary, deserts and chocolate. And of course, coming to York, the whole city smelled of chocolate. I kept wanting to go and visit a chocolate factory, but there wasn’t anywhere to visit, and it seemed such a shame there was nowhere to tangibly engage with it.

So, I decided to revisit my chocolate enthusiasm with a bit more patience, and a lot more access to research and reading.

It became a therapeutic experience around a crazy work schedule.

In what way were you making chocolate at the beginning?

I started by making chocolate truffles as gifts for people and was quite impressed with how good they tasted, and then everyone else was impressed too!

I wanted to make something that tasted great using real, rather than artificial, flavours, and without using lots of artificial preservatives or sugar. But while the feedback I got to that idea was positive, most people said nothing like that would ever exist in York – they thought the demand only existed in London.

What made you ignore that feedback?

I was working with lots of amazing producers around the region, so I knew that there were lots of amazing foods and interested consumers coming to the city, and really thought there would be an opportunity here in York.

I started making chocolate truffles at home, doing market stalls, and offering teaching opportunities and chocolate tastings. I would source lots of different chocolate from around the world, because I was really interested and wanted to learn more. Sharing with people gave me the opportunity to buy and explore lots of different types of chocolate.

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My Craft

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Knowledge Bar

Making Chocolate at York Cocoa Works

—————————————— —————————————— —————————————— FIVE ROLL REFINER 1 RAW BEAN ROOM 3 SHELL REMOVAL This machine has five big rollers stacked along the This is where the cocoa is stored when it arrives, Only the cocoa nib is used to chocolate making, top half of her, each of which is chilled. Between although it goes through a lot of processing before meaning the shell needs to be removed. each roller is a gap, and these gaps get smaller it gets to York Cocoa Works: farmers pick cocoa Roasted beans are poured into a machine called the higher up the machine you go. pods from the trees, scoop out the cocoa beans, the Winnower, a giant mincer which crushes the then leave the beans to ferment in their own fruit. roasted beans, allowing nib and shell to separate. The chocolate can be pumped directly into this machine from the knife mill; as it hits the first roller, Once they have fermented, the beans are dried The crushed pieces fall down the various layers it begins to set and works its way up between the out in the sun and packed into big hessian sacks within the machine, each of which acts like a sieve, gaps to become a nice smooth chocolate. to be shipped across the world. with progressively smaller holes at each stage.

The top roller has a blade set against it to scrape Cocoa beans are grown all over the world, and The machine vibrates as it works, moving the pieces the chocolate off, which at this stage is a powdery, typically across the equator. York Cocoa Works’ through the layers, with little vacuums to lift off flaky solid. The flavour still needs some work. main supply comes from Colombia, where the shell, which is lighter than the nib.

—————————————— they work with a farmer called Juan Diego The shell is deposited, and the nibs, which are THE CONCHE of El Carmelo Farm heavier, fall into the tray at the bottom.

This is the last machine the chocolate goes Before being roasted cocoa is considered a ‘raw’ —————————————— through on the main line. It has a heated bed product and can be quite dangerous due to the on the bottom and a giant metal arm to keep the 4 THE MAIN LINE potential for unwanted bacteria and pests to be —————————————— contents moving around. introduced during fermentation.

KNIFE MILL The flake from the refiner is added to the conche The raw bean room is also where the along with some additional cocoa butter to balance The knife mill, nicknamed Mack the Knife, has a cocoa is classified. out the sugar added earlier. Lots of mainstream top bowl like a giant blender with two large blades.

—————————————— chocolate makers use cheaper alternatives, but The cocoa nibs are added to this along with sugar, York Cocoa Works use 100% cocoa butter for 2 THE ROASTER the ratio of which is recipe dependent. all their chocolate.

Once the cocoa has been classified it is ready As the blades go round the friction builds up, and The machine runs for two to three days, to be roasted. so does the heat, causing the cocoa nibs to depending how full it is (it can hold 250 kilos of York Cocoa Works has a batch roaster that release their natural fat which is cocoa butter. chocolate). The arm keeps everything moving holds 10 kilos of beans.

This causes the ingredients to make a paste, and allows the acids and volatiles to lift off the moving from solid to liquid form.

Most of the beans are roasted to a ‘base roast’, chocolate, developing the final flavour. which takes about 45 minutes. The machine This liquid is then dropped into the bottom bowl.

Because the machine is so big, it can never automatically ejects the beans into the next It is grainy at this stage, and also acetic due to be fully and safely cleaned out (it would need room when finished to avoid contact with any the acids produced during initial fermentation. someone to climb inside!). This means that it raw produce. is solely dedicated to the production of dark chocolate that is never contaminated by the addition of dairy. Alternative methods have been found for milk and white chocolate…

—————————————— 5 MELANGES ‘Melange’ is the French word for ‘mixed’. These machines have granite stone bases and a granite wheel, both of which rotate to grind down the product inside.

This machine actually does the job of the knife mill, the refiner and the conch in one. It takes around two to three days, depending which chocolate is being made, and holds approx. 30 kilos, meaning there is a smaller yield than from the main line.

York Cocoa Works has two melanges: ‘Mary’ for dairy, who does back-to-back white and milk chocolate, and Henry, who does the 100% blends which cannot be contaminated with sugar from the larger main line machines.

—————————————— 6 TEMPERING When the chocolate comes out of the conche or malange it is untempered, meaning that the crystal structure of the fat hasn’t properly formed yet. The chocolate is crumbly and aerated.

The tempering room is where the team ensure the crystal structure of the fats is aligned properly to get a glossy, smooth bar with a crisp snap.

The tempering process consists of heating up the chocolate to optimum temperature, then cooling it as quickly as possible, moulding it, and allowing it to set. York Cocoa Works currently has one machine that is exclusively used to temper dark chocolate.

Milk and white chocolate is still tempered by hand using a hot cupboard or bain-marie to heat it, then marble slabs to cool it down.

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You use mostly Colombian cocoa at York Cocoa Works. Why is that?

I fell in love with Colombia because there were so many geographies to explore and understand, and the chocolate makers were very enthusiastic about wanting to share their stories with the outside world. They’d been growing cocoa for so many years, but hadn’t been trading it outside the country, and had only been using it to make their own products.

It was a great way to start the conversation with people around the use of the term ‘single origin’ in chocolate, and how it didn’t really mean anything when referring to a single country. It’s like saying “all wine from France tastes like this” – nobody would dream of doing that!

What factors do impact the flavour of cocoa?

Cocoa is a barometer of the social and economic climate in Columbia, and elsewhere, as well as the weather patterns. There’s this amazing world in terms of bean varieties, soil, people, and the socioeconomic impact of cocoa farming.

What was originally two varieties of cocoa has become more than 33,000 varieties. They’ve come from this hotbed deep in the Amazon Rainforest that’s around the borders of Peru, Columbia, Bolivia and Brazil. Historically, the stuff that was sweeter and generated a more pleasant flavour made its way north to Venezuela so it was closest to the trade routes out. Then the stuff that was not so good stayed local, and was cultivated in Brazil. We now have regional variations that, for various different social, geographical and historical reasons, have gravitated in different directions.

With the rise of colonial powers at the end of the 1800s and beginning of the 1900s, monocrop cultures were taken and planted elsewhere. So, now the Ivory Coast, Ghana, and Indonesia are the world’s biggest cocoa growers.

Ghana once serviced the British chocolate trade, so historically a lot of the flavours in British chocolate originate from here. A lot of Ghanaian cocoa tastes like Cadbury’s. We found our Ugandan cocoa, when you open the factory doors, smells like a Wispa!

How does York Cocoa Works utilise that deeper understanding of cocoa?

One of the reasons we’re working with lots of different origins is so we can gather that wealth of information, and see how it can be useful for us in understanding flavour dynamics, and how we can apply that for consumers and also the industry going forward.

We have three cocoas from the Soloman Islands that we’ve been working with – one of those tastes really strange at first. There’s a hint of smokiness and tobacco flavour in it but now, nine months after we made it, it’s actually mellowed into a really smoky chocolate that a lot of people love enjoying with whisky.

It’s one of the things that’s prompted us to go and see what’s happening in whiskymaking – replicating that practice of having a bit more patience.

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Having been to lots of French vineyards, doing plenty of whisky distillery tours, and visiting the Courvoisier distillery in Cognac, I thought “we could do that in York” [but with chocolate!]

The parallel with whisky is striking – do you think the move away from blended whiskies to single malt will be replicated within the chocolate industry, with a move away from generic chocolate to more origin-driven varieties?

Absolutely, and that’s very much a big part of my inspiration. Having been to lots of French vineyards, doing plenty of whisky distillery tours, and visiting the Courvoisier distillery in Cognac, I thought “we could do that in York” (but with chocolate!).

All of the ways chocolate has traditionally been treated, making these crazy chocolate bars, is because we perhaps haven’t had the core understanding of the origin product.

What we’re trying to do is highlight that there are so many amazing flavourings in nature, so why would we utilise artificial things?

Do you think modern attitudes to fat and sugar, combined with wider access to information, are changing the way people eat and drink?

Absolutely. Seeing a much younger crowd adopting whisky as something fun and exciting to share shows that generation are wanting to know ‘why?’, and that mindset is penetrating into different areas now too.

If chocolate isn’t going to be the ‘bad guy’ in the future, we need to understand cocoa, how we can get sweetness from other places, and also how to stop our palates honing in on that obsession with sweet stuff. We’re definitely seeing that with younger generations coming through, because of that exposure to whisky, or beer, or wine from different origins. The palate that young people are growing up with is just so different from when I was younger.

We do a lot of work in schools and I’m really enthused to see how many younger children are willing to give something a go. They’re a lot more open-minded, wanting to learn how something happening in a different part of the world influences what they taste.

Is chocolate the next big thing following on from craft coffee, craft brewing, and craft spirits?

I would say yes, because I based a business plan on that! We have the Cocoa Academy here, and have been teaching for the last eight years, and that demand for teaching has grown so that we now see people from all around the world coming here to learn with us.

Being able to share that story of cocoa and chocolate, and distil that knowledge into one accessible location, is fantastic. Otherwise that knowledge would remain trapped within the bigger factories. We need to be able to work more collaboratively – the historic impact of Willy Wonka has been that idea to close a factory down and keep things secret. That really has existed within the chocolate industry, so we wanted to turn it on its head.

My Craft

There is a strong focus on provenance at York Chocolate Works – is that where it stemmed from?

Yes, definitely. I started by using the different chocolates to make truffles and wanted to understand why the cocoa from different areas tasted different. As you start delving deeper you realise how complex the cocoa supply chain is – how many different origins, soils, chocolate makers, and flavours there are.

About 10 years ago I came across a company from Columbia who were working with cocoas from different regions and making them to the same recipe. It was great to be able to share those in a tasting and say, here are three different chocolates, made to the same recipe, using the same variety of cocoa beans, and the only difference is where the cocoa beans are grown. That company was a forerunner of origin chocolate, and it’s still one of the biggest originbased chocolate companies in the world.

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Distillery Visit

Knock Noc

Gavin Smith opens the door on the history and happenings at the unusual Highland distillery.

Knowledge Bar Anniversary Releases According to an anCnoc’s Shal Oswal, these are “Designed to honour the spirit of our founder, John Morrison, and to celebrate our passion for whisky making, past and present. For both expressions, we have developed distinctive packaging designs that are highly personal to Knockdhu, featuring illustrations inspired by people, places and items from the distillery’s past and present.” anCnoc 16 Year Old | 56.3%abv (cask strength) Matured exclusively in American oak ex-bourbon barrels. A light and elegant expression, it has been bottled at cask strength with notes of vanilla, butterscotch and a hint of citrus fruits. anCnoc Peat | 46%abv Initially matured in American oak ex-bourbon casks, then further matured in Spanish oak exsherry butts. A stunning, smoky, sweet dram, it has notes of wood smoke, almonds and dried fruit.

A tour of Knockdhu distillery involves three members of staff, though only one is on the payroll. He is manager Gordon Bruce, while his companions are Labradoodle Archie and Bichon Maisie, both of which help to make the friendly welcome even warmer.

The pair accompany Gordon around the site, reinforcing the impression that ‘The Knock’ – as it is known by locals – is just that bit different to most distilleries, with an old-school family firm feel to it, although it is owned by Inver House Distillers, itself now a subsidiary of the vast Thailand-based International Beverage Holdings.

The distillery is officially in the Highland region of production, though sometimes mistakenly labelled as a Speyside. It is located just off the Huntly to Portsoy road in rural Aberdeenshire, and externally it is compact, with an obvious Victorian granite-built ‘heart’ and classic pagoda-capped kiln.

This year Knockdhu celebrates its 125th anniversary, with two new expressions of whisky to toast the occasion. Since 1993 its whiskies have appeared under the anCnoc banner, as Inver House Distillers decided there was likely to be consumer confusion between Knockdhu and Diageo’s long-established Knockando single malt brand.

The history of Knockdhu distillery begins with the purchase of Knock Estate in 1892 by John Morrison, who discovered that there were

a number of springs on the estate, capable of providing a steady supply of pure water.

The countryside around Knock was prime barley growing land, and peat was also readily available nearby. Add to those attractions the close proximity of the Great North of Scotland Railway line for transportation, and everything added up to the perfect place to construct a distillery.

The 1890s were a decade of dramatic expansion of distilling capacity in Scotland, as the global boom in popularity of blended whisky reached its peak, and one blend that was performing particularly well was that of John Haig & Sons.

Haig had been one of the founding members of the Distillers Company Limited (DCL), an amalgamation of Scotland’s largest grain distillers, established in 1877 to safeguard supplies of grain whisky for blending by its members.

By the early 1890s, however, DCL required additional malt distilling capacity to satisfy demand for the Haig blend, and it ventured north of its Lowland power base, after hearing about the promising site at Knock in Aberdeenshire. A deal was done with John Morrison, and construction of the distillery began in 1893. Production commenced in October 1894, and the site remained in continuous operation until 1931.

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Gordon Bruce, Knockdhu Distillery manager

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❛ By the early 1890s DCL required additional malt distilling capacity to satisfy demand for the Haig blend, and it ventured north of its Lowland power base, after hearing about the promising site at Knock in Aberdeenshire. A deal was done with John Morrison, and construction of the distillery began in 1893.

Production commenced in October 1894, and the site remained in continuous operation until 1931.

Above: Knockdhu Distillery, located just off the Huntly to Portsoy Road, has a Victorian granite-built ‘heart’ and classic pagoda-capped kiln. Right: The Knockdhu Distillery team, including Labradoodle, Archie

Surprisingly, Knockdhu, as it was christened – from the Gaelic for ‘black hill’ – has the distinction of being the only distillery built by DCL, rather than acquired from existing operators.

Knockdhu remained a low-key player in the DCL stable until the early 1980s, serving as a Royal Indian Army Service Corps base during the Second World War, when it became the only Scottish distillery to boast a Halal slaughterhouse!

Overproduction in the Scotch whisky industry led to a dramatic programme of closures during the 1980s by DCL, which had grown to become the dominant force in Scotch whisky distilling. On 31st May 1983, DCL closed 11 malt distilleries, including Knockdhu. Two years later, another 10 followed.

In common with most of the distilleries that fell under the DCL axe, Knockdhu was selected as it was only equipped with a single pair of stills, limiting potential output when the industry subsequently recovered.

Many of the distilleries closed in 1983 and 1985 were never to reopen, but Knockdhu was fortunate enough to attract the attention of Inver House Distillers, which acquired the mothballed site in 1988 from DCL’s successor company United Distillers.

inver house

Inver House Distillers had been established in 1964 as a subsidiary of Publicker Industries, based in Philadelphia, and Knockdhu was the first of five distilleries purchased by the company. Speyburn, Pulteney, Balmenach and Balblair followed during the next decade, as the company built a portfolio of single malt brands and malt whisky capacity for use in its Pinwhinnie, Catto’s, Hankey Bannister and MacArthur’s blended Scotches.

In the hands of Inver House Distillers, production at Knockdhu recommenced on 6th February 1989, with the first official bottling of Knockdhu single malt hitting the shelves the following year. The anCnoc name was adopted three years later, as Inver House Distillers prepared to make serious efforts to promote it as a single malt.

A range of expressions, aged from 12 to 35 years, appeared over the next few years, along with several limited edition peated variants.

Today the core bottlings are 12, 18 and 24 years old and the peated whisky ‘Peatheart’. There is a vintage 2002 expression, plus Rudhan, Barrow and Black Hill Reserve – all travel retail exclusives.

According to International Beverage Marketing Director Cara Chambers, this is a milestone year for the whisky. “anCnoc is a premium malt whisky that everyone can enjoy, in particular those looking

to discover Scotch whisky and a high-quality Highland single malt for the first time. We wanted to do something really special to celebrate our 125th anniversary, so we have delved into our past and taken time to reflect on the things that give anCnoc its distinctive character. As a result, we’re looking forward to sharing some wonderful new expressions and experiences with our drinkers in the year ahead.” distillery manager

The aforementioned Gordon Bruce has been the man in charge at Knockdhu for the past three years, and has spent a total of 31 years in the employ of Inver House Distillers. He was born in the historic Pulteneytown area of Wick, Caithness, and recalls that “I left school to do an HND in computer studies, but I thought computers would never catch on! I went to work as a heating engineer, then joined the local Pulteney distillery in 1988, staying there till 1994. I trained as mashman, stillman, and rose to be brewer there. I then went to Bablair as brewer, and in 2016, I came to Knockdhu as manager.”

He notes that much of the present production set-up dates from an extensive DCL refit during 1964, when a new mashtun – which retains its traditional copper dome – and washtuns were installed. Gordon explains that “The distillery is totally manual.” He points to a calculator by the mashtun, declaring “That’s our computer system!”.

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Knockdhu has worked 24/7 with one operator per shift since 2006, and Gordon notes that “The guys can react very quickly – they never stop working on a shift. In terms of overall production, we did 1.9mla in 2016, and two million would be our absolute maximum. We are almost paranoid about wort clarity, so we don’t stir it up too much in the mashtun. We want clear wort to generate esters, which are crucial to the character of the spirit.”

Fermentation takes place in eight Oregon pine washbacks, and Gordon declares that “Modern yeast strains have been one of the biggest changes in the industry during the past ten years or so. They can tolerate higher temperatures, which means we use less cooling water, and as a distillery we can struggle for water at times, especially in summer, as we are relying on local springs.

Every drop of water is used five times during production. You also get a higher alcohol yield from modern yeasts.”

When it comes to distillation, he explains, “The pair of stills have tall necks, so you’d expect nice, light spirit, but we use worm tubs to condense the spirit, which tends to make it heavier. When we first switched from five to seven-day working the spirit style changed, because we were doing everything faster.”

Gordon’s personal ingenuity created a regime unique in Scotch whisky distilling to resolve the issue. He recalls that “I came up with the idea of putting a modern shell-and-tube

condenser on the wash still before the worm tub, to give lots more copper contact. That took us back to the five-day week style of spirit we had been making.” casks and peating

Some of the spirit produced at Knockdhu is taken away by road tanker to Inver House Distillers’ warehousing complex at Airdrie, while a significant amount of that destined for single cask bottling is filled at the distillery and matured in the three on-site dunnage warehouses and one racked warehouse, which between them can accommodate some 6,500 casks. According to Gordon Bruce: “Seventeen or eighteen per cent of what we make goes for single malt, but that amount is growing.

“In terms of the wood mix in each expression, the 12 Year Old and current 2002 annual vintage bottling are mainly ex-Bourbon, while the 18 Year Old spends 15/16 years in Bourbon and then a final maturation period in Oloroso sherry casks. The 24 Year Old is in Bourbon casks for 21 years, and then has three years in sherry wood. All peated spirit is aged only in ex-Bourbon casks.”

On the subject of that peated spirit, which was first launched in 2014, he notes that, “We make peated spirit for three months of the year, so it’s quite a big chunk of production. It’s Aberdeenshire peat, malted by Crisp at Portgordon on the Moray Firth coast, and it’s got a sweet,

woody smoke, quite different to the maritime character of Islay peat, for example. It’s peated to 45–48ppm.

“We produce peated malt for the last six weeks of the year and then the first six weeks of the new one. That gives us spirit from two calendar years in one tranche. The peated variant is nicely balanced. It’s easy to make a heavily-peated whisky with nothing but smoke, but with ours, you still get the character of the whisky coming through.” visiting knockdhu

Knockdhu is off the obvious tourist trails of the north-east of Scotland and the public tend not to realise that the distillery welcomes visitors. However, Gordon notes that “We run tours Monday to Friday, 10am and 2pm, ideally pre-booked. 60 to 70 per cent of our visitors are German, and Germany is a very knowledgeable whisky market. We tailor tours to what people want, and ask them to make a donation to one of the charities we support instead of charging a set fee.”

If you get the chance to visit Knockdhu, then grasp it with both hands. As you’ve probably gathered by now, it is a welcoming and individualistic distillery. Just remember to take some dog treats with you!

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Mixing It Up

L A Talisker's UK ambassador, Jason E. Clark, and award-winning chef Calum Montgomery scour the Hebridean island to create a selection of simple cocktails, customised with wild foraged flavours from the Isle of Skye.— Photography: Armando Ferrari. Styling Meredith Wilkie.

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Mixing It Up

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Edinbane Lodge's menu is completely dependent on local, seasonal, sustainable produce, and their philosophy of sourcing and preparing the best of Skye’s natural larder has been thrilling customers since day one.

————————————————————————————————— jason clark (aka @drinks_geek)began his bartending career at the age of 17 as a 'glassie' in a New Zealand nightclub, and has now been passionately committed to the hospitality and drinks industry for over 22 years.

Among many achievements he is a former double World Class NZ cocktail champion, placing 4th overall at the global final in 2013.

Having built his way up from the bottom into managerial and ownership roles, he is now based in London as the UK’s Talisker Whisky Brand Ambassador, and tours the country educating and inspiring both the trade and consumers about whisky.

He recently designed and launched his first cocktail book The Art & Craft of Coffee Cocktails which is available in bookstores internationally and was awarded No.1 best seller status on Amazon in December 2018.

For cocktail, coffee & whisky inspiration visit instagram.com/drinks_geek ————————————————————————————————— calum montgomery is chef patron at Edinbane Lodge, a casual fine dining restaurant set within a 16th Century Hunting Lodge on the Isle of Skye. Calum and his wife purchased the lodge, which is one of the oldest operational buildings on the island, with the backing of his family in November 2017. By March 2019 they had completely transformed the lodge into a 4 bedroom Restaurant with rooms.

The restaurant opened in August 2018, offering a seasonal, multiple course tasting menu which changes every three weeks to showcase the best of Skye’s ingredients.

The menu is completely dependent on local, seasonal, sustainable produce, and their philosophy of sourcing and preparing the best of Skye’s natural larder has been thrilling customers since day one.

Food bloggers are unanimous in their praise, and the restaurant received a 15/15 review from Press and Journal, and a 47/50 review from Scot Magazine, following secret diner visits. Condé Nast Traveller referred to the restaurant as “the talk of Skye” when recommending it as one of the top places to visit in the Hebrides, and Edinbane has recently won two awards in the Taste Local Awards for Best Skye and Lochalsh Restaurant, and Best Newcomer. Most recently, it has been named as one of the Top 100 restaurants in Scotland by Creative Oceanic, and Best New Scottish Restaurant at the Prestigouos CIS Excellence Awards.

In addition to the media recognition, Edinbane has become a firm favourite with the public, and currently sits at #1 of #104 Restaurants on Skye, with nothing but 5-star reviews since opening!

Speaking of Edinbane Lodge, Calum told us: “We work very closely with our suppliers, many of whom are childhood friends and relatives that have gone on to become fishermen, farmers and vegetable suppliers, and are constantly looking for the best way to showcase their amazing produce. Local produce means everything to me as I am from Portree – I want to give our guests a real taste of what is available on Skye.

“I have been trained by Michelin starred chefs throughout my career and this is now my third head chef post at the age of 29. In my previous two roles I won 3 rosettes whilst in charge, and was running the once-Michelin starred kitchen at Kinloch Lodge.

“We have recruited our Restaurant Manager, John Grant, a long-time friend, from the Wolesly in London and are excited to take the restaurant to the next level. John is now a Partner in the business, and we look to move from strength to strength.

“Our Restaurant encourages ‘casual fine dining’. We want the guests to feel as relaxed as they would be if they were sitting at their own dining room table whilst experiencing an exceptional meal.

We don’t turn tables – when the table is booked it is booked for the entire evening.

“We have a full kitchen team now, and I am very grateful that they are all chefs I have worked with before. Edinbane Lodge would be nothing in these past eleven months without our team working together to achieve the same goals.”

The 4 individually decorated bedrooms, opened in March 2019, were awarded 5 Gold Stars by the AA under a Restaurant with Rooms rating.

Edinbane Lodge is open from Wednesday–Sunday for dinner and rooms, with Lunch being served Friday–Sunday.

Mixing It Up

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————————————————————————————————— ➊ | hot honey blossom cider 50ml Talisker 10 Year Old 20ml Manuka honey 100ml Apple cider A selection of wild foraged botanicals: elderflower, gorse flower, rowan buds, sugar kelp, nettle — Glass: Talisker tin mug Garnish: Foraged elderflower Method: Add all ingredients except Talisker to a pan over hot coals on a campfire. Simmer for approx. 10 minutes to infuse flavours into the liquid. Add Talisker and stir for 1 minute, then strain into a mug. [We made this drink at Braes Beach, overlooking Ben Tianavaig ] ————————————————————————————————— ➋ | salty sea dog 50ml Talisker 10 Year Old 100ml Grapefruit soda 2x Dash grapefruit bitters — Garnish: Isle of Skye sea salt with dried foraged pepper dulse (sea truffle) Method: Build over ice & stir — Paired with: Hand dived Skye king scallop, served in its shell with a pistachio and cashew beurre noisette, pickled fennel, and seaweed crackers.

————————————————————————————————— ➌ | spring woodlands 50ml Talisker Port Ruighe 3x Ripe British strawberries 60ml Russet cloudy apple juice 3x Wild water mint leaves 2x Wild meadowsweet leaves 2x Dash Dandelion & Burdoch bitters — Glass: Highball Garnish: Sprig of foraged meadowsweet Method: Shake & strain over cubed ice, top with soda ————————————————————————————————— ➍ | forager’s sour 50ml Talisker 10 Year Old 20ml Foragers botanical cordial 30ml Lemon juice Grapefruit Bitters Foaming agent or egg white — Glass: Stemless wine glass Garnish: Mixed wild flower petals: gorse flower, rowan flower, raspberry flower, ground elderflowers, and claytonia flowers Botanical cordial: 1L water, 1kg caster sugar, rowan flowers, wild mint, blackcurrant leaf, wood sorrel, wild thyme Method: Shake hard with cubed ice & double strain, then dry shake (no ice) and pour into a chilled glass

————————————————————————————————— ➎ | deep in the woods 45ml Talisker Distillers Edition 20ml Skye berry syrup – wild blueberry and blackcurrant syrup 50ml Cold brew coffee concentrate at 5:1 ratio 3x dash Black walnut bitters — Glass: Old Fashioned Garnish: Freeze dried raspberry powder Method: Shake hard with cubed ice and double strain into a chilled glass Skye berry syrup: 500g Caster sugar 250g Crashed blueberries 250g Crushed blackcurrants 250ml water Add all ingredients to a pan and bring to boil.

Simmer for 15 minutes, fine strain and allow to cool, then strain into a sterilised bottle.

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Mixing It Up

➊ — Hot Honey Blossom Cider

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➋ — Salty Sea Dog

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Mixing It Up

➌ — Spring Woodlands

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Autumn 2019

➍ — Forager’s Sour

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Mixing It Up

➎ — Deep in the Woods

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Autumn 2019

My Whiskeria

R EADY ST EADY CO OK

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My Whiskeria

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Autumn 2019

My Whiskeria Few chefs can claim such a varied and successful career as Scottish foodie icon Nick Nairn. After becoming the youngest Scottish chef to achieve a Michelin star in the 1990s, he found his way onto our screens as a Ready, Steady, Cook regular, and became a pioneer of local produce as host of Wild Harvest. In tandem with his TV career, Nick has opened a series of successful restaurants, established the Nick Nairn Cook School, and used his voice to passionately advocate healthy eating – and he’s not done surprising us quite yet…

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Photography: Brian Sweeney. Assistant Fabio Rebelo Paiva

Knowledge Bar Nick Nairn's Cook School Location: Port of Menteith Stirling; FK8 3JZ, Scotland Open: Wednesday —Sunday 9am—5pm Prices: Group classes with a celebratory guest chef are priced £195 and run from 10am until late afternoon.

Group day classes with Nick are priced at £179pp.

Group classes with the resident chef tutor are priced at £129.

3-hour masterclasses with the resident chef are priced at £79pp.

Nick’s ‘Flavours of the World’ Supper Club is £49pp .

Let Nick cook you supper, inspired by your chosen country, as you relax with a glass of fizz.

Private one-on-one cookery classes with Nick Nairn are priced at £495 for a half day or £895 for a full day and are bespoke to each guest.

When we meet, Nick has recently Tweeted a video “looking for chefs to join an exciting restaurant project” and “be part of something special”. We pry a little further…

It’s a bit early to talk about it, but it is the world’s worst kept secret…

Jules [Nick’s wife] and I bought a house in Bridge of Allan in November last year, and got the keys in January, and in that time we’d been looking for a site for the pizza, because the pizza thing had been a massive success in Aberdeen – we just needed the right site.

Luckily, at the same time as we moved to the Bridge of Allan area, Jam Jar and The Queens hotel bar became available. Together with an old friend, Doug Wood of Woodwinters Wines, we decided to go for it and got the keys on the 14th February. Our intention is to rebrand Jam Jar but keep the successful all day dining formula. The Queens is a work in progress, but will be a wine bar, and Doug is going to move his wine shop next door into a much bigger space, which will be pretty amazing.

What plans have you got for the new venues – will they follow in the footsteps of your previous ventures?

Jam Jar is very casual, not as formal as what I’ve done before. We’re doing a burger, but it’s a 100% Highland Wagu burger and handmade brioche bun. We’re staying true to Scottish produce but doing it at a much more affordable, more accessible level.

And of course we’ve got our pizza. In Aberdeen we’d met this guy who I call ‘Pizza Paul’ – Paul Hughes. We’ve got a wood burning oven at the Cook School in Lake of Menteith, and did a pop-up. Quite a lot of people I really respect said it was the best pizza they’d ever tasted. So, we knew we were onto something!

The reason I put the Twitter thing up is because I do need to recruit a new team, and it’s been incredibly tricky. When I opened Nairn’s in Glasgow in 1996, I didn’t even have to advertise.

We were on the front page of Caterer, my brother and I, and we had over 100 applications.

I’ve brought this crisis in the cheffing world to the government’s attention numerous times. We used to have quite a good apprentice system – you can’t really train them at college because it’s a craft skill, it’s not an intellectual engineering exercise. It’s something you need to learn on the tools, as it were. Unfortunately, what’s happening is there’s a lot of talent that could be in the restaurant industry in this country that is away off other places, driven by food trends and other factors.

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My Whiskeria

â?› It was like my food knowledge was in black and white, then suddenly it was in technicolour.

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Autumn 2019

You’ve mentioned the upcoming opening of the wine bar. Did you get into drinks as a result of being interested in food?

Yes, there’s almost a natural relationship between cooking, eating and enjoying food, and wine.

I was very lucky, when I started cooking the people I used to hang out with – David Brown at the La Potiniere, David Wilson at the Peat Inn, and Eric Allan at the Airds Hotel – had, between the three of them, some of the finest cellars in Scotland, maybe in the UK. And through them I got to travel out to France and Spain and Italy, meet the wine makers, go to the estates, taste from the barrel, and get to know quite a lot of the guys in the industry. That gives you a completely different appreciation of a bottle of wine.

As for whisky, I worked for Chivas for about 8 years as an ambassador, which is why I love the 18 Year Old so much. We did some amazing global events; that whetted my interest in whisky, and from there I’ve continued to enjoy it. Unfortunately I have discovered that there are some people making unbelievable whiskies, but they are stupidly expensive…

I think the industry has been very much revitalised recently, since global demand has exceeded supply, and you’ve seen this incredible thing of people rushing to open distilleries.

Which of course has led to the rise of gin…

Knowledge Bar Nick on whisky I like whisky too much, possibly, some might say. Do I have favourite whiskies? Where do I start?

I like good whisky, whisky that’s well made, and you find that everywhere. In general, I like Speyside rather than island malts.

Peat is not my thing.

I’ve filmed at a lot of these distilleries over the last 20 years. I filmed with the guy who makes Laphroaig. We were in the warehouses where they age the whisky, and Paul Rankin and I thought what we tried was world class and said so on camera, so they gave us a bottle. The next night, sitting in our little hotel, we thought we’d have a wee dram of our Laphroaig, so poured it out, and I didn’t like it at all – it was too medicinal. Whisky is a very subjective thing, the environment you’re in, the people you’re with, what’s happening round about all affects how you enjoy it.

Cragganmore, for me, would be a really excellent expression, and I also like blended whisky. I like Chivas 18 Year Old, and when was the last time anybody saw that on a shelf? It’s an airport thing, but it’s a stonking great whisky.

When the magazine comes out, your very own Lochend Gin by Nick Nairn will have just been released. Tell us more about that.

Ours is grain to glass, so Scottish wheat from the Lothians is turned into low wine and distilled. When you’re making your own spirit, you’re relying on the supply of wheat, and trying to find somebody that can grow consistently good wheat with the right amount of sugar and starch is difficult.

With my gin, all of the botanicals are grown in Scotland. They’re not bought, they’re grown.

It’s totally natural. We’ve spent a huge amount of time developing it, and getting something good. My gin is a gin and tonic gin, not a sipping gin – I think that is the reserve of whisky. That complexity of whisky comes from the barrel and you can’t replicate that.

The first batch of Lochend Gin is 60 bottles – we’re absolutely constrained by the wheat. Being true to your ideals does have a downside! Our first gin will only be available through the Cook School shop, and we’ll let the gin do the talking.

You mentioned that your gin is made with only Scottish grown botanicals. You’re probably the original champion of Scottish ingredients – do you feel responsible for the current trend in that direction?

To be honest with you, I think we were probably quite far ahead of our time. Those programmes went out in the mid-nineties, and it’s probably only since the late noughties that young chefs have got into it. There was a long period between me doing that and then suddenly the next generation of chefs finding it for themselves. I think it’s great but I don’t like bulls**t artists. I don’t like people jumping on the bandwagon because it’s trendy to do it.

Going back to the early days – how did you discover your own true passion for food and great ingredients?

I joined the Merchant Navy as a navigator (never as a chef) in 1976.

I can point point the exact moment in time that it happened. It was Singapore, 1976, at the Satay Club. My dad thinks that onions, garlic, spices are the work of the devil. He wouldn’t have it in the house, it gave him the boke. My poor mum had to learn how to cook without any of those things. So, I grew up never having tasted any curry, Chinese food, noodles, Italian, French, nothing.

Then, there I am sitting on a little stone stool in the Satay Club, which doesn’t even exist anymore, and these kids were just cooking with little bamboo skewers of satay between their toes, fanning them over charcoals, and they’d pass them up to you. You dipped them into this bowl of what looked like puke, but was proper peanut sauce with whole peanuts and chilli and oil floating on the top of it. So exactly at that point, when I put it in my mouth, I suddenly realised my life had changed, because this had to be part of my life going forward. It was like my food knowledge was in black and white, then suddenly it was in technicolour.

Did that lead you to looking for local foods in Scotland that you could utilise in the same way you’d seen local ingredients utilised in Asia?

Yes, so that’s where the foraging came in.

You used to get chanterelles round here, but now everyone knows they’re here!

If you ask James Martin, he’ll tell you one of his best ever foraging moment was out on the island on the Lake of Menteith. We just found a carpet of chanterelles, and went back and cooked them all on the barbecue.

Knowledge Bar Nick's Favourite Food Moments A mango fell out of the tree in the Comoros Islands, near Madagascar, I picked it up hot from the sun, peeled it with the shell and just ate it as it was.

Parmesan, 60 month aged in Bologna. The guy hacks off a big shard of Parmesan and you bite into it and think “I’ve never tasted anything like this before!”. Then he says, “Here’s a ripe pear.

Bite the pear then eat the Parmesan at the same time” – and it was incredible.

One of the best meals was recently: eight courses at Andrew Fairlie’s. Andrew was a great pal of mine, so it was a difficult thing going back, and even more so because it was probably the best food I’ve ever had and he wasn’t there. But it’s a testament to Andrew’s legacy; Stevie and Dale and the team there are doing such a good job. It was flawless. Very few times do I say that, and I’ve been to some of the world’s best restaurants.

I shot some partridge, skinned them and took the breasts off, and on the way back from shooting I’d found some chanterelle mushrooms. We cooked potatoes and cavolo nero from the garden, partridge shot that day, fresh picked chanterelles, and a little cream sauce. I wish it could always be like that, but it can’t.

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My Whiskeria

� Once you get really good at something it’d be crazy not to exploit it and enjoy it.

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Autumn 2019

You discovered your ‘taste buds’ in the Merchant Navy – do you take Scottish flavours and introduce them to people around the world?

No – for Paul and Nick’s Big Food Trip, we’ve done two series in North America, a series in Canada, a series New Zealand, and the next one’s in Australia. That’s very much about following the Scots-Irish emigration and the food that they found, rather than cooking with Scottish ingredients.

I have tried, in the past, cooking with Scottish ingredients elsewhere. I had a client I used to cook a Burns Supper for in New York, and you can’t buy haggis in North America, because it’s illegal. So we used to take the haggis out in a suitcase, until we got caught. A wee dog came out and started barking at Newark Airport. So I got held for bioterrorism. I had four chieftain haggis, 100 serves of beef fillet, and I got a bit greedy so I had a big bag of frozen jus…

You’ve just hosted your first Foodie Festival, released your own gin, the Cook School is going strong, and you have the Kailyard at Dunblane Hydro too. What else is planned for the future?

We’re very much promoting the Cook School as a venue since we got married here; it works really well as a multi-functional space capable of doing parties, product launches, or strategy meetings with some cooking afterwards. It can do things other places can’t, and can be interactive and quite experiential.

We’ve got that, the Kailyard at Dunblane Hydro, and obviously Jam Jar, and opening the wine bar. The coming year is a big one for us; it's 10 years at Dunblane and 20 years here at the Cook School. Next year we’re doing ‘20 in 20’, when we’re having 20 guest chefs in 2020 to mark our 20th anniversary. We’ve got some big names coming, but I can’t tell you who just yet.

There’ll be Scottish guys, and we’ll certainly do something to commemorate Andrew [Fairlie].

Is there anything left on your career bucket list?

I don’t really have an awful lot left to prove to myself. Julia is my best pal, my business partner and my wife, and I’m lucky to have found somebody at quite an advanced stage in my life who means so much to me. She’s very good for me, and we push each other to achieve things.

There might be a thing on the Orient Express, there might be a thing in Barbados, there’s a cruise round Britain… There’s all this stuff happening next year, it’ll be a big busy year.

I’m thankful for my career. I started cooking when I was 25 and that was now 35 years ago. I’m still enjoying what I do, I love it.

Have you ever fallen out of love with cooking?

No. I did say I would retire a couple of times, and that I wasn’t going to do it again, but it didn’t last long. Once you get really good at something it’d be crazy not to exploit it and enjoy it.

Cooking is a cumulative wisdom – you’re always learning, you’re always developing, you’re always getting better, you’re always getting ideas, things are changing all the time.

The thing I probably enjoy more than anything is teaching, passing on knowledge that has built up over the years.

Every single class is bespoke, so I work with people to decide what they want, and every single case is different. There’s a lot of things I can teach people that will change their cooking life in a day. It feels fantastic.

Did anyone do that for you?

No, I just played with food and stupidly decided I was going to open a restaurant.

Knowledge Bar Nick's Top Criteria for Ingredients Freshness!

For vegetables, herbs and salads I want young, tender shoots.

Shellfish needs to be spanking fresh, just out of the water.

I want scallops dived and langoustines creeled, not dredged.

I have a network of local guys who shoot game for us. I’ve been a champion of pigeon for years and I love venison.

Knowing where stuff comes from!

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Knowledge Bar Nick's Birthday Dinners What’s the best thing you’ve ever cooked?

The venison dish I did for the Queen’s 80th was pretty good.

You’ve just turned 60 – who did the food for your birthday?

Jamie Scott from The Newport cooked for that. It’s one of mine and Jules’ favourites. I love The Newport. It’s just across the river from the V&A in Dundee.

My Whiskeria

❛ Whisky is a very subjective thing, the environment you’re in, the people you’re with, what’s happening round about all affects how you enjoy it.

Proud Partner of Edinburgh Rugby

Our range is comprised of exceptional single malts that best encapsulate quality and the demonstration of our expertise: the elegant 12 year old—soft, sweet & balanced; the satisfying 15 year old—complex & rich; and the decadent 18 year old—intense & spicy.

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Fall Favourites Autumn 2019

+ The Whisky Shop Exclusives + New International + Halloween + Limited edition Loch Lomond + more

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The Whisky Shop Exclusives We’re proud to stock a selection of whiskies exclusive to The Whisky Shop. From limited edition bottlings to old and rare whiskies, single cask single malts to singularly superb blends, these whiskies are for our customers only.

Limited to just 408 bottles — Collectable single cask Highland single malt — Treacle toffee; dark chocolate; cinnamon

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Old Pulteney 2007

Loch Lomond 2004

Glen Scotia 1999

70cl | 50.2% VOL | £110

70cl | 54.4% VOL | £110

70cl | 58.4% VOL | £135

Single cask #1471 was handpicked from the Wick distillery’s warehouses, where it matured by the sea in a carefully selected Spanish oak hogshead cask. Distilled in 2007, this cask produced a mere 408 bottles, each presented at a powerful 50.2% VOL so you can get a fullon taste of something special.

Expect rich treacle toffee and dried fruit aromas, followed by dark chocolate, cinnamon and oak flavours.

Distilled in October 2004, this Highland single malt from the multi-talented Loch Lomond Distillery has matured for more than 14 years in a single cask (#15/624-1). In May 2019 we deemed it to be just right for bottling, with its delicate balance of cloves, allspice and ginger, followed by luscious fruit cake notes, and did so exclusively for our customers. It is released at a cask strength of 54.4%VOL, free from chill filtration, and only 267 are have been produced.

Originally distilled and filled to its cask in the year 1999 and eventually bottled at a strong 58.4% (cask strength) in April 2019, this rare gem from Glen Scotia has only produced 196 bottles, exclusively for customers of The Whisky Shop. Taking influence its bourbon cask, the nose is sweet with vanilla toffee followed by a palate initially strong with alcohol but quickly mellowing into soft honey and melting toffee, then a refreshing burst of citrus fruits. The finish is also sweet, with barley sugar complexity.

Limited to just 267 bottles — Collectable single cask Highland single malt — Allspice; ginger; fruit cake

Limited to just 196 bottles — Collectable Campbeltown single malt — Vanilla toffee; citrus; barley sugar

Whiskeria

The BenRiach 2005

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The GlenDronach 1992

70cl | 56% VOL | £85

70cl | 57.1% VOL | £259

Hand chosen for you, The Whisky Shop customer, this Speyside single malt is packed with fruity sweetness. Matured in a Pedro Ximénez puncheon for 12 years, it is presented at a bold 56%VOL, and boasts a rich rhubarb crumble and toffee profile elevated by spearmint freshness.

Hand chosen by The Whisky Shop, this is the second release in a series of 26-year-old single cask single malts from the increasingly popular Speyside distillery. This expression was distilled on 13th May 1992 and matured for the full 26 years in single sherry cask #64, before just 493 bottles were drawn from it in 2018.

Each of those bottles is individually numbered, beautifully packaged, and presented at a cask strength of 57.1% abv.

Limited to just 553 bottles — Drawn from single cask #5279 — Spearmint; plum pudding; bitter chocolate

Limited to just 493 bottles — Part of a collectable series — Xmas spice; liqueur chocolates; cigar box

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New International Whiskies We’re always looking for exciting new brands and expressions to expand The Whisky Shop collection, and the search certainly isn’t limited to Scotch. With distilleries popping up across the globe, from Ireland to America, and even the far flung reaches of Australia, there’s a whole world of whisky waiting to be discovered upon our shelves…

World’s most awarded rye whiskey — Made in Vermont, New England — Caramel; allspice; mint

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Whistle Pig 10 Year Old

Starward Solera

Starward NOVA

70cl | 50% VOL | £85

70cl | 43% VOL | £55

70cl | 41% VOL | £55

A stock of aged rye whiskey was being misused as a blending whiskey in Alberta, Canada, before the WhistlePig distillery team rescued it. After ageing in bourbon-finished new American oak, the resulting expression went on to become the most awarded rye whiskey in the world. The nose has allspice, orange peel and anise with charred oak and caramel.

The palate is sweet with caramel and vanilla developing to rye spice and mint. The finish is long and warming with butterscotch and yet more caramel.

Created at the New World Distillery in Victoria, Australia, Starward is a true revelation. Made with 100% Australian malted barley, this expression is then matured in wood that previously held Apera fortified wine, which is similar in style to sherry, and lends complex flavours of dried fruit, spice and sweetness. This, in turn, has inspired the modern solera style process that Starward has adopted to ensure the consistency of every batch.

Awarded Best Australian Whisky 2016, this is a unique expression that draws the majority of its influence from the vibrancy of Australian red wine barrels.

Each one is hand selected and kept exactly as it leaves the winery, remaining uncharred, to preserve the uniquely Australian red wine profile and wine to oak character.

See Charlie MacLean's New Releases review — Solely matured in Australian red wine barrels — Floral; red berries; oak spice

Australian single malt whisky — Sherried style characteristics — Rich dried fruit; sweet caramel; spice

Whiskeria

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Something Different

Ben Lomond Scottish Gin

We may be called The Whisky Shop, but look a little closer and you’ll find we offer all sorts of glorious gin, yummy rum, and a whole host of great gifts too. Here are our favourite recent additions to the range.

Kill Devil Dark Overproof Rum

The Loch Fyne Gift Box with Glasses

70cl | 43% VOL | £37

70cl | 57% VOL | £49

50cl | Various% VOL | £Various

A uniquely Scottish gin crafted with 11 different botanicals including handpicked Scottish blackberries and rowan berries, foraged in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Parks. Working in partnership with the John Muir Trust to support Wild Scotland, National Parks, and the Wild Woods Campaign, Ben Lomond Scottish Gin takes its name from the 3196ft mountain that overlooks the National Park. Vibrant and crisp, it has a smooth, fresh flavour, finishing on a delicate berry sweetness.

This Caribbean rum is a dark and rich blend of the finest Guyana and Jamaica rums, aged in white oak casks for added smoothness and depth. It is bottled at a powerful 57%VOL in a nod to the Royal Navy's old 'gunpowder strength' qualification. Intense and tropical on the nose with blackened banana, pineapple, peaches and citrus zest, the palate brings more caramelised banana and pineapple, with chocolate and coffee bean flavours emerging.

Gin, liqueur, blended malt, or single cask expression – whichever of The Loch Fyne products perfectly fits your gifting requirements, you can now make it even better by selecting The Loch Fyne gift box with glasses. The premium presentation box holds one full sized bottle of The Loch Fyne plus two classic Glencairn glasses, and tells the charming story of The Loch Fyne on the reverse.

Blend of Guyana and Jamaica rums — ‘Gunpowder strength’ — Blackened banana; pineapple; chocolate

Created with locally foraged ingredients — Made in collaboration with the John Muir Trust — Crisp; smooth; wild berries

Include your favourite product from The Loch Fyne — Two classic Glencairn glasses included — The perfect gift

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Halloween Whisky’s weird history is well documented, from the days of stealthy smugglers and illicit stills, to tales of haunted warehouses and the eerie remains of many lost distilleries. We couldn’t think of a better spirit to join you for your Halloween celebrations!

Reimagined whiskies of lost distilleries — 6x 5cl samples — All regions and characters of Scotch covered

Uniquely distilled 2.81 times — Named after the No.1 spirits still — Meaty; sulphurous; sherried

The Lost Distillery Co. Gift Pack

Mortlach 12 Year Old 'The Wee Witchie'

Whistle Pig The Boss Hog V The Spirit of Mauve

6x5cl | 43% VOL | £40

70cl | 56% VOL | £50

70cl | 57.9% VOL | £600

This gift pack from The Lost Distillery Company invites you on a journey through time.

Discover the taste of whiskies from distilleries that have been relegated to the history books, from light and delicate to richly sherried and boldly peated.

Whiskies vary from pack to pack but will include a selection of six from Auchnagie, Stratheden, Towiemore, Jericho, Gerston, Dalaruan and Lossit.

This 12-year-old Speyside single malt comes from the new Mortlach range, launched in 2018.

Known as 'the Beast of Dufftown', Mortlach is distilled 2.81 times in a complicated process referred to simply as 'The Way'. This single malt, dubbed 'The Wee Witchie' after the small No.1 spirit still that is integral to the process, is matured in American and European oak ex-bourbon and sherry casks. Meaty and sulphurous, it showcases the raw distillery character.

The name says it all. Whistle Pig’s Boss Hog series features the ‘the biggest, most profound whiskeys for the Boss Hog in all of us’. This 5th. edition, The Spirit of Mauve, is a 13 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey finished in Calvados casks in honour of the distillery’s celebrity pet pig, Mauve’s undying love of apples. A unique blend of sweet and spice, it offers a fine balance between American power and French sophistication.

The fifth edition in The Boss Hog series — Finished in Calvados casks — Mulled cider; maple syrup; rye spice

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Last Chance Hunter Laing

Platinum Old & Rare Caol Ila 36 Year Old

‘Blenders and bottlers of the finest Scotch whiskies’ Hunter Laing have been in the business for more than three generations. The Whisky Shop is lucky to offer a range of limited edition, single cask expressions from Hunter Laing that you can’t find anywhere else, meaning once they’re sold out, they’re gone forever – we suggest getting your hands on these exceptional whiskies, before it’s too late!

The First Editions Benrinnes 2005 70cl | 46% VOL | £77

The Old Malt Cask Highland Park 19 Year Old

The Sovereign Invergordon 30 Year Old Single Grain

70cl | 56.9% VOL | £740

70cl | 50% VOL | £299

70cl | 48.8% VOL | £160

This Islay single malt came into being in September of 1980. Filled to a single refill butt and left to mature for more than 36 years, it was finally bottled in August 2017

by Hunter Laing & Co. as part of the Platinum Old & Rare Selection of exceptional, long-aged single cask expressions. Bottled at a cask strength of 56.9%VOL without chill filtration or artificial colouring, only 140 bottles were produced.

This Island single malt from Orkney's Highland Park distillery was distilled in September 1997 before maturing in a single refill hogshead for 19 years. Only 210 bottles have been produced at a preferred strength of 50%VOL for The Old Malt Cask range.

The nose offers orange, butterscotch and vanilla. Milk chocolate, orange and heather are evident on the palate before a satisfyingly smoky finish with brown sugar and chocolate aspects.

This single grain Scotch whisky was distilled at Invergordon in Ross-shire and matured for three full decades in a single cask. It has been bottled at a natural cask strength of 48.8%VOL as part of The Sovereign range, free from chill-filtration and artificial colouring. The nose is sweet with apple and some autumn fruits.

The palate brings lashings of sweet butterscotch, before a short, oaky finish.

Limited to just 210 bottles — Collectable single cask Island single malt — Chocolate; heather smoke; brown sugar

This single cask expression from Benrinnes distillery in Speyside was distilled in 2005 and bottled aged 12 years for The First Editions series of youthful whiskies. Only 348 bottles have been produced.

The nose is mellow with notes of orange, caramel and milk chocolate. The palate is herbal and salty with more oranges, apricots and a hint of smoke.

The finish has warm oak aspects lingering.

Limited to just 348 bottles — Collectable Speyside single cask single malt — Herbal; salty; orchard fruit

Limited to just 140 bottles — Collectable Islay single cask single malt — Salty peat; liquorice; green apple Limited edition expression — Single cask single grain — Autumn fruits; butterscotch; oak

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New Products to Personalise Adding a personal touch can transform a gift from special to unforgettable. We now offer the option to engrave 28 different products, from single malt Scotch to world whiskies, and even a bottle of gin! Here are the latest additions to our customisable collection.

The ideal gift for Bowmore fans — Includes the limited release Vault Edition 1 — Salty; peat smoke; rich sweetness

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Bowmore: Vault Edition 1/ 18 Year Old / 15 Year Old / 12 Year Old

Suntory Whisky Toki

Oban Distillers Edition

70cl | Various% VOL | £109/ £119 / £77 / £56

70cl | 45% VOL | £50

70cl | 46.7% VOL | £80

We’ve made no fewer than four expressions of Bowmore available for engraving! Vault Edition 1, bottled at a cask strength of 51.5%VOL, is the first in a four-part series of limited releases hand selected to showcase Bowmore’s enduringly popular depth of flavour. The 18 Year Old at 43% VOL is matured in a variety of casks resulting in a sweet, salty and smoky Islay whisky; the 15 Year Old is rich in colour and flavour from finishing in Oloroso sherry casks; the 12 Year Old reflects the raw essence of the distillery, with citrus, honey and smoke.

This blended whisky from the House of Suntory is a combination of liquids from the acclaimed distilleries of Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita, and takes its name from the Japanese for 'time'.

Overturning the conventional hierarchy between malt and grain, this innovative whisky pays homage to Suntory's proud heritage. The nose has fresh basil, green apple and honey. The palate boasts green grapes and juicy grapefruit with cool peppermint and thyme, developing to subtly sweet vanilla oak and ginger.

Each Oban Distillers Edition expression undergoes a second (or 'double') maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. The founders of Oban distillery were entrepreneurs who imported and exported goods for which they could sense a demand.

They would have approved of the Spanish influence brought to bear in this Montilla Fino cask wood finish. A seriously complex whisky of the highest order, now available to personalise with your own message.

Innovative blend from The House of Suntory — The perfect gift for Japanese whisky fans — Green fruits; vanilla oak; spice

The ideal gift for Oban whisky fans — Double matured in fortified wine casks — Sea salt; rich fruit; complex smoke

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GlenKeir Treasures Our unique GlenKeir Treasures range is now in its fifteenth year of widespread approval by customers. We pick the best casks we can find and offer a selection of bottle sizes to suit any budget or occasion. Our 20cl quarter bottle is compact, robust, and a favourite with travellers.

Available in 10cl, 20cl or 50cl — The perfect gift for Island whisky fans — Sea breeze; sweet barley; orchard fruits

GlenKeir Treasures The Secret Island 7 Year Old

GlenKeir Treasures The Secret Highland 8 Year Old Sherry Cask

GlenKeir Treasures Ledaig 6 Year Old

50cl/20cl/10cl | 40% VOL | £55/£26/£13

50cl/20cl/10cl | 40% VOL | £55/£26/£13

50cl/20cl/10cl | 46.7% VOL | £50/£22/£11

Another cryptic release, chosen exclusively for The Whisky Shop customers. This expression comes from an unnamed Island Distillery, and was filled to cask on 22nd April 2012, then left to mature for 7 years. Nutty and cereal aromas are tinged with salty sea breeze and dry dusty oak, hessian, fresh apple, and a touch of Grappa.

The palate is delicate, with sweet barley, soft oak and gentle spice over bruised orchard fruits and subtle saltiness before a crisp citrus finish.

This secretive single malt was filled to a sherry cask on 26th September 2010 and left to mature for 8 years. The nose promises golden syrup, fresh fruit and honey with a lingering earthy note typical of Highland whiskies.

Soft and honeyed on the palate, with honey-soaked apricots and nutty notes developing to a rich sherry sweetness. The texture is smooth and velvety, leading to a mellow finish with rum raisin ice cream and creamy chocolate.

Hailing from the Isle of Mull’s Tobermory Distillery, Ledaig is the name given to their peated whiskies. This one was filled to cask on 16th April 2013 and left to mature for 6 years, before being specially selected by The Whisky Shop. Delicate peat smoke and charred oak are accompanied by candied sweetness and sherbet lemons on the nose. The mouthfeel is oily, with wispy smoke, lemon meringue pie and green tea on the palate, followed by ashy smoke to finish.

Available in 10cl, 20cl or 50cl — Read Charlie MacLean’s review in New Releases — Sherbet lemons; ashy smoke; green tea

GlenKeir Treasures The Secret Islay NAS 50cl/20cl/10cl | 40% VOL | £50/£24/£12 A mysterious single malt, sourced from an unidentified Islay distillery with The Whisky Shop customers in mind. The nose boasts smoky aromas from a beach bonfire and a refreshing fruitiness. The peat smoke characteristics continue on the palate where they are joined by a slight saltiness and fresh citrus notes. The finish is complex with a combination of warming spices and green fruits.

Available in 10cl, 20cl or 50cl — The perfect gift for Islay whisky fans — Beach bonfire; refreshing fruitiness; warming spice.

Available in 10cl, 20cl or 50cl — Read Charlie MacLean’s review in New Releases — Sweet honey; rich sherry; nutty

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Loch Lomond Group Specials The Loch Lomond Group is an independent distiller and blender of some of the finest and rarest Scotch whiskies in the world, and encompasses the Loch Lomond, Glen Scotia, and Littlemill distilleries.

They have become renowned for their dedication to releasing amazing limited edition whiskies each year as part of the Campbeltown Malts Festival and, more recently, as ‘The Official Spirit of The Open’ via Loch Lomond's partnerships with high profile golf players.

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Glen Scotia 2003 Rum Cask Finish 2019 Festival Edition

Loch Lomond 2002 Vintage Cristie Kerr Red Wine Finish

Loch Lomond 2004 Colin Montgomerie Single Cask

70cl | 51.3% VOL | £69

70cl | 51.3% VOL | £250

70cl | 46.3% VOL | £250

A limited edition single malt from Glen Scotia, distilled from peated barley in 2003 and matured for a full fifteen years, including time in a rum puncheon, before being bottled at a natural cask strength of 51.3%VOL to celebrate the Campbeltown Malts Festival 2019.

The nose is sweet and fruity with a slight prickle and rich plum notes.

The palate brings more sweet fruits with a maritime salt aspect, rum toffee and a distinctive peat note in the finish.

Cristie Kerr has recorded 20 wins on the LPGA Tour including two Majors, and was World No. 1 on three separate occasions throughout 2010. She is also owner of the Kerr Cellars wine company and holder of the Level 1 Court of Master Sommeliers certificate, with this being her first move into fine spirits. Her Loch Lomond release, bottled at 48.1%VOL, delivers fresh red berries with creamy vanilla, green apple, kiwi, lime citrus and a gentle honeyed sweetness before mouthwatering fruit and ginger spice on the finish.

Golfing icon Colin Montgomerie is a natural ambassador for Loch Lomond, having been born barely 20 miles from the distillery! Distilled in May 2004, this unpeated expression matured in a re-charred Amercian oak butt for over a decade before being selected by Colin in celebration of the Carnoustie 2018 Open championship. Only 324 bottles were produced, each bearing Montgomerie’s signature.

It is rich and lush with soft candied notes and a nutty spice leading to elegant oak and sweet vanilla mingled with spicy ginger and melted brown sugar.

Finishing casks originally held Kerr’s 2016 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir — Collectable for whisky and golf enthusiasts alike — Red berries; green fruit; honeyed sweetnessweetness

Limited to just 324 bottles — Collectable for whisky and golf enthusiasts alike — Softly candied; nutty spice; elegant oak

Campbeltown Malts Festival 2019 limited edition — Cask strength single malt — Maritime; rum toffee; peat

T

he Balvenie Stories range is a collection of single malt whiskies representing tales of character, endeavour and craft. Each whisky produced by The Balvenie tells a human story, evolving with the protagonists and developing unexpected twists through years of maturation.

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

L IGHT / FLO RA L Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old 70cl | 46.3% VOL | £47 Bunnahabhain lies on the north-eastern tip of Islay and means 'mouth of the river'.

Whiskies made there are quite distinct from the other Islay single malts in that the majority are created using unpeated malted barley in a time-honoured distillation process. The isolated coastal sanctuary also takes advantage of the pure spring water that flows freely underground away from the peaty moorlands. This 12-year-old expression showcases the signature ‘fruit and nut’ style of the distillery.

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anCnoc 12 Year Old

Balblair 12 Year Old

Balblair 15 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £44

70cl | 46% VOL | £52

70cl | 46% VOL | £80

A whisky whose name isn’t taken directly from its home distillery, anCnoc comes from the Highland Knockdhu Distillery. Established in 1894 as the perfect embodiment of a modern distillery, Knockdhu lies on the border of Speyside and produces light, intriguing, forwardthinking whisky. Matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, sherry and second-fill American oak casks, this expression is delicate yet complex, smooth yet challenging, and universally loved for it!

Part of the new core range released in 2019, marking a move to expressions bottled by age rather than vintage. Matured in American oak, ex-bourbon and double-fired American oak casks, this 12-year-old expression has an elegant complexity and warmth. The gentle charisma of the Highlands is encapsulated in the fine balance of fruit, spice and sweetness. Elegant and approachable, this is the defining expression of Balblair Distillery.

Another exciting release from Balblair’s new core range.The 15 Year Old is tropical and mature, with the texture of melted chocolate and one of the finest finishes a single malt can bring.

Both round and velvety, welldeveloped and fresh, this whisky represents the perfect balance of unique distillery character and the smoothness of age.

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Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie

Glen Moray 12 Year Old Elgin Heritage

Loch Lomond 12 Year Old

Auchroisk 10 Year Old

70cl | 50% VOL | £52

70cl | 40% VOL | £43

70cl | 46% VOL | £45

70cl | 43% VOL | £48

A seminal single malt crafted by industry legend and Bruichladdich master distiller, Jim McEwan, using individually selected casks to showcase the classic floral and elegant Bruichladdich house style. Unpeated, it is their signature bottling and the definitive Bruichladdich. Made from 100% Scottish barley, trickle distilled, then matured for its entire life by the shores of Lochindaal in premium American oak, it is a testament to the quality of the ingredients.

This Speyside single malt is aged in the finest American oak for 12 years, lending it a delicious toasty character. Look forward to rich floral notes and vanilla toffee on the nose, with berry fruits and freshly cut herbs. The palate has toasted oak and more sublime summer fruits for a mellow sweetness, before a sweet, subtly oaky finish.

An eponymous whisky from the innovative distillery on the bonnie banks, where different stills are used to create a stunning variety of single malts. This core range expression – bursting with orchard and citrus fruits, cereal and biscuit sweetness, then wood smoke and a peaty tang – has already enchanted the taste buds of Jim Murray, who claimed he’s “never seen spice quite like it, or such a sublime balance with the fruity malt”. High praise indeed.

The Auchroisk 10 year old is part of Diageo’s Flora & Fauna Series, which consists of 26 different Scotch single malt whiskies from their lesser known distilleries – typically those which predominantly supply liquid for blends, rather than single malt releases. Auchroisk itself is a relatively young Speyside distillery, built in the 70s, and draws natural waters from Dorries Well to produce smooth, subtle whisky.

This 10 Year Old expression is pleasantly light, with a balance of delicate sweetness and fresh flavours before a short finish.

Distillery Visit Knockdhu 48

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

R IC H / SW EET New to Customer Favourites

R IC H / SW EET The Glenrothes Vintage Reserve

70cl | 40% VOL | £40 Introduced to The Glenrothes core range in 2015, Vintage Reserve marries liquid of 10 different vintages from between 1989 and 2007 to achieve the perfect balance of vibrant youth and mature experience.

The oldest constituent brings mellow oak and dried fruits; the dominant proportion adds soft, mature, sweet vanilla; the more youthful additions contribute exuberance and lemon citrus, creating a sharp and uplifting taste, for an ultimately easydrinking Speyside whisky.

RTheICBenRiach H / SW EET 12 Year Old Sherry Oak

70cl | 46% VOL | £48 A Speyside single malt crafted using three facets of sherry cask maturation: 12 years of maturation in sherry casks, followed by finishing in Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks to give unexpected layers of sweet fruits and toasted oak spice.

The nose is fruity and rich, with pear, fig, apricot, mandarin syrup, crème caramel and toasted vanilla. The palate has more sweet fruits with honeyed fig, baked pineapple, sultana, chocolate fondant, and nutmeg, continuing to the long finish with a distinct sherry note.

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Arran 10 Year Old

The BenRiach 21 Year Old

Old Pulteney 15 Year Old

70cl | 46% VOL | £45

70cl | 46% VOL | £139

70cl | 46% VOL | £75

The classic expression of the Arran Malt, this 10-year-old captures the fresh and unique island style of the western isle's eponymous distillery and is a multi-award winner, taking gold at both The China Wine & Spirits Best Value Awards 2014 and San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2012. Rich vanilla sweetness gives way to cinnamon on the nose, with a soft and sweet texture that takes on a spicy edge.

The palate is sweet with apple and citrus against a background of oak.

This standout Speyside expression is created in a combination of bourbon barrels, virgin oak casks, red wine casks, and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks for a minimum of 21 years. Expect layers of spicy fruit and warming oak aromas spiked with zesty tropical fruits on the nose, followed by a sherry-driven palate with chocolate and raisin accompanied by lemon zest and shortbread.

The finish is long with hints of rye and sweet caramel. Great for landmark birthdays!

This 15 year old is one of the most balanced single malts in Old Puletney’s new core range, released last year. Matured in American oak ex-bourbon casks and finished in Spanish oak, spice and sweetness combine with the refreshing coastal notes expected from the distillery. The nose has rich dried fruit, ripe apples and citrus, with honey sweetness and a generous chord of creamy vanilla. The palate brings fragrant spices and Christmas cake, before toffee and chocolate mingling with sea salt in the finish.

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Benrinnes 15 Year Old

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Blair Athol 12 Year Old

The Dalmore 12 Year Old

The Dalmore 15 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

70cl | 43% VOL | £52

70cl | 40% VOL | £50

70cl | 40% VOL | £70

Another expression from the Flora & Fauna series, this whisky hails from a long-established Speyside distillery with a tumultuous history. Despite fire, flood, world wars and financial issues, Benrinnes has survived to produce a style of ‘sultry’ Speyside whisky that is always well-rounded and intriguing. This fantastically sweet, smooth 15year-old example is packed with estery characteristics subsumed in its dark aromas.

Established in 1798 in picturesque Pitlochry, Blair Athol is one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries, and produces the signature malt of the famous Bell's blend. This is one of only a few official bottlings ever produced from Blair Athol, and part of The Flora & Fauna series: a collection highlighting the diversity of Scotland's whisky regions. Walnuts and sherry on the nose lead to cinnamon and orange-citrus on the palate, with the richness of fruitcake completing this delightful dram.

It’s not surprising that our former Whisky of The Year retains its status as a firm favourite amongst The Whisky Shop customers. To recap for those who haven’t yet dipped a toe into The Dalmore portfolio, this single malt is a Highland triumph displaying signs of sherry wood maturation: full-bodied, thick, sweet and ‘muscular’. Leathery notes and a long spicy finish add finesse and make this popular dram an absolute must-try.

Matured for 15 years in a trio of ex-sherry casks, as well as ex-bourbon barrels, The Dalmore’s 15 Year Old is another core range whisky for your bucket list. A stylistic evolution from The Dalmore’s famous 12 Year Old and just as popular, you can expect a similarly varied profile of chocolate orange sweetness, gentle spice and rich warmth. It’s a true testament to the distillery’s creative and ambitious approach.

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

R IC H / SW EET Glenfiddich Project XX 70cl | 47% VOL | £50 The result of one of the most ambitious malt experiments undertaken by Glenfiddich, bringing together 20 whisky experts from 16 countries around the world. Project XX is a combination of each expert's selected cask from the Glenfiddich warehouse, carefully married together in a small batch vatting by Malt Master, Brian Kinsman. Deep gold with classic Glenfiddich fruitiness, apple blossom, pear, oak, creamy vanilla and subtle spice on the nose. The palate is refined, with candy floss, toasted almonds, cinnamon, vanilla oak, and a long finish.

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Glen Moray 15 Year Old Elgin Heritage

Glen Scotia Victoriana

The GlenDronach 12 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £55

70cl | 54.2% VOL | £73

70cl | 43% VOL | £49

Unquestionably Speyside in character, Glen Moray’s Elgin Heritage Collection showcases carefully matured, complex and well-rounded whiskies influenced by the unique Elgin climate. This 15-year-old single malt is aged in a combination of sherry and American oak casks, which impart hints of spice, heady dried fruits and dark chocolate flavours.

Expect sherried oak and butter toffee on the nose, followed by an indulgent full-bodied palate with sweetly spiced dark chocolate and fine wine. The finish is long and rich.

This Campbeltown single malt has been relaunched at a slightly higher strength than its original release, better reflecting the whiskies created there in the Victorian era, and which have inspired this decadent dram.

It is finished in deep charred oak before bottling straight from the cask, with subtle wood and vanilla combining beautifully with a full-bodied spicy fruit aroma.

The nose is elegant, with oak and crème brûlée leading to caramelised fruit and polished oak. The palate is sweet and concentrated with blackcurrant jam, subtle wood and vanilla, while the finish is clean and sweet with cocoa tones.

A signature single malt from the distillery famous for its richly sherried offering, and an awardwinning expression at that; no wonder The GlenDronach 12 retains its status as a favourite amongst our customers! Matured in both Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks, it is imbued with an indulgent portfolio of flavours – stewed fruits, jam, marmalade, nuts and brown sugar all vie for attention – with a faint charcoal smokiness weaving through over time.

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The GlenDronach 18 Year Old Allardice

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Highland Park 18 Year Old Viking Pride

Jura Seven Wood

Oban Distillers Edition

70cl | 46% VOL | £120

70cl | 43% VOL | £110

70cl | 42% VOL | £59

70cl | 43% VOL | £79

Created using waters from the Dronac Burn, this is a superbly complex single malt made in the characteristic big sherry style. An ode to James Allardice, who founded the distillery and produced the very first drops of ‘guid Glendronach’, this expression has been matured in the finest Oloroso sherry casks. Rich and dark, it promises remarkable depth of flavour with stewed fruits and allspice.

One of the most awarded whiskies of all time, the Highland Park 18 Year Old demonstrates harmony, refinement and complexity.

Layers of honeyed sweetness and delicious hints of chocolatecoated cherries are joined by a subtle top-note of aromatic peat smoke. The beautifully balanced flavour is down to Highland Park’s five traditional keystones of production, and it is a real favourite amongst our staff!

Part of the new core range from Jura, Seven Wood was launched through The Whisky shop in March 2018. Crafted with a combination of seven cask types – American white oak ex-bourbon, Vosges, Jupilles, Les Bertranges, Allier, Traonçais, and Limousin barrels – it opens with light peach and a hint of smoke on the nose.

The palate is balanced with a great depth of flavour; liquorice and candied orange emerge, before a subtle smoke descends in the finish.

A seriously complex whisky of the highest order. Each expression of Oban Distillers Edition undergoes 'double' maturation in casks that have previously held a fortified wine. The distillery’s entrepreneurial founders – who specialised in importing ‘in demand’ goods – would have approved of the Spanish influence brought to bear in this Montilla Fino cask wood finish, which boasts a signature salty smokiness along with walnut, orange citrus and an identifiable, crowd-pleasing sherry character.

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Customer Favourites The whiskies our customers love provide a happy hunting ground for shoppers. From the smoky Islays to sumptuously sherried drams and everything in-between, there is something here for everyone.

We’ve grouped these whiskies by flavour profile, to help you find your favourites from the range.

SM OKY

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Talisker Port Ruighe

Caol Ila Distillers Edition

Ailsa Bay 1.2

70cl | 45.8% VOL | £55

70cl | 43% VOL | £75

70cl | 48.9% VOL | £60

The whisky gurus at Talisker Distillery have taken their seminal Isle of Skye malt and finished it in ruby port casks to create the fantastically rich and fruity Port Ruighe. The nose moves from sea-spray to waxy aromas with a little sweetness. This is mirrored on the palate, with Talisker’s classic maritime character being rounded off and dramatically sweetened by the port finish. The finish includes cocoa and oak, with even a hint of citrus.

A stylish, richly flavoured and complex expression from Islay’s much-loved Caol Ila Distillery.

Following many years maturing in oak casks, this whisky has then been ‘double matured’ in Moscatel cask wood, hand-selected to complement the whisky’s sweetly fruity, smoky intensity. Expect cinnamon layered with orange and apple freshness, sweet malty biscuit flavours, and waves of classic Islay peat smoke.

Version number two of the unique single malt distilled at Girvan, overlooking Ailsa Craig in the Firth of Clyde. It’s the only Scotch to undergo a micro-maturation with spirit first filled to small ex-bourbon casks for intense rapid maturation, before being transferred to virgin, first-fill and refill American oak for several years. The nose has wood smoke and heather with sweet vanilla oak and candied orange peel.

The palate is a perfect balance of peat and vanilla sweetness, with fruit and toffee emerging. The finish has sweet oak balanced with drying peat.

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Bowmore 15 Year Old

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Jura 18 Year Old

Port Charlotte 10 Year Old Heavily Peated

Inchmoan 12 Year Old

70cl | 43% VOL | £67

70cl | 44% VOL | £75

70cl | 44% VOL | £62

70cl | 46% VOL | £50

Matured in an inspired combination of both bourbon and sherry casks at the salty-sea-air infused Bowmore warehouses, it's the final three years spent in Oloroso sherry casks that gives Bowmore 15 Year Old it’s sumptuously rich, deep colour.

Exuding the aroma of delicious dark chocolate, sun-dried fruits and a characteristic wisp of Islay smoke, it is full-bodied, rich and complex, and a no-brainer for Islay whisky fans.

The oldest new addition to Jura’s signature range, this 18-year-old expression has been matured in American white oak ex-bourbon barrels and enriched

by Premier Grand Cru Classé red wine barriques, and is bottled at 44% for optimal flavour. The nose boasts sweet toffee and cinnamon spice. The palate is rich and full-bodied with Black Forest fruits and some smoky notes, before a bitter chocolate aspect and fresh espresso to finish.

The flagship release in Bruichladdich's heavily peated range is distilled, matured and bottled on Islay, and crafted using first-fill and second-fill American whiskey casks plus a proportion of second-fill French wine casks.

The nose has characteristic Port Charlotte smoke, with sweeter caramel, fudge, and vanilla custard alongside ginger, cloves and nutmeg. The palate is soft with loose smoke and sweet coconut, vanilla, sherbet lemon, and oak notes coming to the fore, with smoked oyster and sun-baked salty sand. The finish is smoky with banoffee pie, mango, apple, and sweet malt.

Part of Loch Lomond Whiskies' peated Island Collection, born of a unique combination of spirit from a traditional swan neck pot still and a straight neck pot still, resulting in an unconventional peat character marrying smoke and spice. Sweet vanilla from re-charred American oak and refill bourbon casks complement the soft peat style. The nose has smouldering peat with vanilla syrup and cracked black pepper, while the palate is sweet with medicinal peat, smoked bacon, roasted coffee beans, cloves and star anise, developing to fruity green apple and pear. The finish is long with waxy peat and gooseberry citrus.

Mixing It Up Talisker 52

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International Customer Favourites

Introducing a selection of The Whisky Shop customers’ top expressions from outside of Scotland! Hailing from across the globe, our international Customer Favourites represent an increased curiosity in nonScotch drams, and also the growing trend for whisk(e)y distilling the world over.

INTERNATIONA L Kavalan Concertmaster 50cl | 40% VOL | £55 One of the most awarded Asian whiskies of all time, presented in a 50cl bottle (ideal for those who like a little taste of something different). It is distilled in Yilan, North Eastern Taiwan, using the cold pure spring water that flows through the Snow Mountain, and matured in American oak before finishing in port barriques for fantastic smoothness. The exceptionally pure air and a sub-tropical climate around the distillery contribute to this single malt’s uniquely light and fruity flavour – tropical notes mix with cinnamon spice, vanilla and cream, and finish on luscious dark fruits.

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Maker’s 46

Redbreast 12 Year Old

Green Spot

70cl | 47% VOL | £45

70cl | 40% VOL | £50

70cl | 40% VOL | £46

A ‘totally new kind of bourbon’, Maker’s 46 is crafted with seared French oak staves and matured in the coolest part of the beautifully situated Maker’s Mark Distillery, Kentucky.

Named after its origin as the 46th recipe explored by its creators, this exceptionally smooth bourbon is an evolution from the standard Maker’s Mark expression, and a masterpiece of natural caramel, vanilla and spice flavours.

The first official reference to the brand name 'Redbreast' appears in August 1912, when Gilbeys were selling "Redbreast" J.J. Liqueur Whiskey 12 Years Old. The name 'Redbreast' itself refers to the bird, Robin Redbreast, and is attributed to the then Chairman of Gilbey's, who was an avid bird-fancier.

This modern 12 Year Old expression is a single pot still whiskey full of aroma and flavour, benefitting from a strong contribution of distillates which have matured in Oloroso sherry casks, giving it its trademark Christmas cake character.

A non-age statement single pot still Irish whiskey comprised of pot still whiskeys aged between seven and ten years old. It has been matured in a combination of new and refill bourbon casks as well as sherry casks. The nose is fresh with aromatic oils, spice and orchard fruits on a background of toasted wood.

The flavour is spicy and fullbodied, with a hint of cloves and the fresh fruity sweetness of green apples, along with further toasted oak leading to a lingering spicy, barley finish.

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Bulleit Bourbon 10 Year Old

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Roe & Co

The Chita

Tullamore D.E.W. 14 Year Old

70cl | 40% VOL | £49

70cl | 45% VOL | £35

70cl | 43% VOL | £58

70cl | 41.3% VOL | £57

Billed as ‘Tom Bulleit’s selected reserve’ this sublime whiskey was first aged in charred American white oak, before select Bulleit Bourbon barrels were set aside to age for a total of 10 years. The result is a very special expression that promises a rich, deep, incredibly smooth-sipping experience. Deep russet in colour with rich oaky aromas, you can expect a consistently smooth taste with vanilla and dried fruit, before a long, smoky finish.

A premium blended Irish whiskey marrying single malt and single grain liquid in American oak ex-bourbon casks, a high percentage of which are first-fill. Developed

by Master Blender, Caroline Martin, Prototype 106 was chosen to hold up in cocktails, as well as be enjoyed neat.

Fragrant and rounded with soft spice, mellow spun sugar and warm, woody vanilla, the balance is immediately evident on the palate, with a velvety texture and sweetness including spiced pears and vanilla, then creaminess lingering in the finish.

The result of 40 years’ excellence in distilling, this single grain whisky hails from Japan’s revered House of Suntory. Traditionally used as the ‘dashi’ or broth that enhances Suntory blends, The Chita has finally achieved a level of sophistication that allows it to take centre stage. Expect crème brûlée, cardamom, acacia honey and rose blossoms on the nose.

The palate is mild and smooth with subtle mint amidst a deep honey character. Clean and clear spiced oak with subtle bittersweet notes complete the finish.

An Irish single malt triple distilled and matured in exbourbon casks for the majority of its life, before being finished in a selection of four specially chosen casks: bourbon, Oloroso sherry, port, and Madeira. The nose is fruity, with citrus, apple and mango atop rich honey and vanilla. The palate has fresh green fruits, toffee, cinnamon, nutmeg and a touch of ginger.

The finish brings malty notes with some milk chocolate and a touch of spice.

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Expert Tasting

Glen Scotia Bunnahabhain Charlie MacLean takes up the enviable task of tasting the oldest ever Glen Scotia release, and the first in Bunnahabhain’s Elements series. glen scotia 45 year old Glen Scotia Distillery has had a chequered history. It was founded in 1832, named simply ‘Scotia’, and was operated by its founding company until 1895, when it was bought by Duncan MacCallum, owner of Glen Nevis Distillery. In 1919 both joined a consortium of five distilleries to form West Highland Malt Distilleries Ltd., in an attempt to share costs, but by 1924 this had failed and MacCallum resumed ownership of Glen Scotia.

He struggled on until 1930, when he drowned himself in Crosshill Loch. This came as a profound shock to the people of Campbeltown: MacCallum was 83 years old, “an outstanding personality in the industrial and commercial life of the town”, according to his obituary. It is said that his ghost haunts Glen Scotia.

The distillery passed through several hands and endured several periods of closure. Between 1930 and 1954 it was owned by Bloch Brothers and its name was changed to ‘Glen Scotia’.

In 1994 it was bought by Glen Catrine Bonded Warehouse Ltd., owner of Littemill and Loch Lomond Distilleries [see New Releases), who mothballed it until 1999 when it opened part-time, operated by staff from Springbank Distillery.

In 2014, when Loch Lomond Distillers Ltd. was bought by its current owners – an experienced group of senior managers with

the support of a private equity company – the fortunes of Glen Scotia changed dramatically for the better.

The distillery has been splendidly restored and renovated, upgraded and expanded, with a small but charming visitor centre in one of the oldest parts of the site. Under the management of a hugely knowledgeable local man, Iain McAllister, it is in full operation, capable of producing 600,000 litres of spirit per annum.

This magnificent Glen Scotia 45YO is far and away the oldest expression of the malt ever to have been released. bunnahabhain elements 39 year old Bunnahabhain Distillery was built between 1881 and 1883 by William Robertson of the Glasgow firm of blenders and brokers, Robertson & Baxter, in partnership with Greenlees Brothers of Campbeltown, who owned Hazelburn Distillery and the best-selling blended Scotch of the day, Lorne, and also the now betterknown Old Parr and Claymore blends.

Not surprisingly, given its owners, the distillery was designed to produce whisky for blending, which meant using unpeated or lightly peated malt. The owners went so far as to draw their process water from a spring in the Margadale Hills to the south of the distillery and pipe it down so as to avoid contact with peat.

Bunnahabhain is the most remote and most northern distillery on Islay. Its construction was

not without difficulties: two large boilers were blown off the beach where they were waiting to be fitted during the first winter of building and, as well as a village of cottages with a school and other facilities, a mile-long road had to be laid up a steep cliff to connect the site with the road to Port Askaig, the nearest village.

William Robertson went on to found Highland Distilleries (now Edrington).

Somewhat surprisingly, Bunnahabain was sold to Burn Stewart Distillers in 2003 and is accordingly now owned by the Distell Group of South Africa, owners of Burn Stewart since 2013.

In 2017, Distell announced an £11 million investment over three years to upgrade Bunnahabhain’s ‘scruffy’ appearance and transform the site into a ‘world-class whisky destination’. Work began this year with the demolition of some warehouses to make way for the new visitor centre.

This venerable and extremely rare Bunnahabhain 39YO is the first in the Elements series. After almost four decades in refill American oak casks,the whisky was re-racked into a Spanish sherry octave, belonging to the company’s Master Blender Kirstie McCallum, for six months.

Campbeltown Single Malt Age: 45 Year Old Vol: 43.8%

001

002 70CL ÂŁTBC

Very deep gold in colour; American oak refill cask. A soft nose-feel and a complex initial aroma of ripe tropical fruits (ogen melon, papaya, plantain, strawberries) and scented hand-cream. A sand beach on a hot day emerges in the development. The texture is creamy and the taste sweet over all, with a light maritime touch (very slightly salty) and milk chocolate and black pepper in the long finish.

Bunnahabhain Elements 39 Year Old Islay Single Malt Age: 39 Year Old

Vol: 43.2%

70CL ÂŁ12,000

The colour of sun-bleached polished mahogany. Both the colour and the aroma suggest Spanish oak maturation: dried sultanas and figs, crystallised orange peel and maraschino cherries, kitchen spices. The texture is unctuous and mouth-filling; the taste starts lightly sweet, then goes deliciously sour, with salt in mid-palate, a long finish and an aftertaste of coffee. Traces of tablet in the development.

Expert Tasting

Glen Scotia 45 Year Old

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Dear Uncle Ether

Political correctness gone mad…

Uncle Ether Foreshot, whisky’s primary problem solver, helps three more troubled tipplers.

— Illustration: Francesca Waddell

Dear Dominic

Dear Uncle Ether, rcing Boris has tasked me with sou at ved a special dram to be ser he is a celebration banquet that en he planning for 31st October wh I be uld achieves Brexit. What sho looking for?

Dominic, Westminster

An interesting question and one that I’ve given careful thought to. You will definitely be wanting a whisky from an independent Scottish distillery, probably around Edinburgh. The owners of such establishments are proud, require heaps of respect, and complain loudly if they think they are not getting enough. Also, they take no lessons from other distillers, because they believe that only they can make decisions for their people. I think that this is where you will find the perfect dram for your purposes. And they will be delighted to assist Boris.

So to the whisky itself – and you can print these tasting notes for the banquet. The aroma will have a hint of compromise, but dominated by bravado.

On the palate it will appear to be hard, but, in fact, it will be soft. Although multi-layered and highly complicated, the drinker will notice none of that, it will seem simple, seamless, straightforward and full of promise. The finish will have no back stop, meaning that it will be extremely long and lingering. This will be an expensive dram, but I guess Boris has deep pockets for such an historic achievement.

Slainte! And do let me know how it goes.

Dear Uncle Ether There’s a rumour that Diageo will appoint a female (it could be me) to be its next CEO. What changes do you think she / I should make?

Tania, Dublin

Dear Uncle Ether My brother and I are the founders of The Isle of Lewis Donald Trump Ap preciation Society, up here in Lewis where The Donald’s mother was born. The name is a bit of a mouthful, so we have shortened it to ‘The Isle Trump Society’.

We just use the first letters on our logo – people always say they like it. We ’re a tight knit organisation – in fact it’s only my brother and me… and our cousin Sandy, but we haven’t told him yet. When The Don ald was elected President, we laid down a cask of Kilchoman for him – to welcome him home, thinking that, like all American President s, he would like to return to his roots. Howeve r, we have come to the conclusion that (i) he’ s teetotal; and (ii) he’s not coming back.

Our question is, what to do with the cask and wh at else to give him?

John Angus, Lewis

Dear Tania

Dear John

Well it’s obvious really. This would be an historic event and only a brave, bold and meaningful action will suffice. You have to address the institutionalised prejudice of masculine branding and correct the inequality that this bestows on women. I am referring to none other than ‘Johnnie Walker’. I mean, look at him striding forth in his tight jodhpurs, high-cut jacket, tails and top hat. And what’s that strange stick he is wielding? What a stereotype of male domination!

I am not suggesting you scrap the brand, I gather it pays some of the bills down there at Park Royal – just soft pedal it. I am saying put a female one alongside it, to create balance. Woman do need to be represented, not just on the radio. And this would not be tokenism, the brand change would be selected on merit, of course. So, what about launching a new Scotch brand called ‘Jeannie Washer'? Just think, most drinkers, who order their fifth or sixth Johnnie Walker already call out for a “Jeannie Washer”. I can see it working.

Barman to inebriated customer: “What’s that you said?

A Jeannie Washer? Certainly, I’ve got one right here!”

The transformation will be seamless! And it doesn’t have to stop there. Gordon’s Gin. Really? In this day and age? Good luck with the new job!

What a great gesture for such a great man! Now let’s see. Why don’t you sell the cask and get some cash in your pockets. You could do this at online auction. In fact, come to think of it, the whiskyshop.com/auctions are now up and running and commission rates are very reasonable. (Editor. Did you see what I did there?

Clever eh?) And with the proceeds? Well, you will have some personal expenses to discharge. I’m sure a few drams will need to be taken – to recharge your batteries, so to speak. And then what to give him instead? My sources at The White House tell me that he likes, in no particular order, flags, posters and KFC Chicken. I happen to know that he has a lot of flags. You could do him a poster. What about one that declares ‘Make Lewis Great Again’? But would he be enthusiastic about that? I’m not so sure. However, if you went down the KFC route I am confident that you would meet with success. While he doesn’t come to Lewis, he does come to Scotland. He flies in and out of Prestwick Airport. I suggest you track his movements and, when he makes his next trip to Scotland, get yourself down to the Ayr bypass where there’s a KFC. Buy him a wee carry out for the trip home. Job done!

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Glen Moray 21YO Portwood Finish is the newest addition to the range; can youFinish take us through theaddition flavourstoand aromas Glen Moray 21YO Portwood is the newest in take this whisky?

An the idealflavours food pairing? the range;found can you us through and aromas found in this whisky? An ideal food pairing?

The dual cask maturation (ex bourbon then finished in Port casks) The dual cask maturation (ex fruits, bourbon then vanilla, finishedgingerbread in Port casks)toffee and dark yields rich berried creamy berried fruits, creamy vanilla, toffee and dark simple This year Glen Moray will release its latest yields richchocolate flavours.

Ideal food gingerbread pairing would be something This year Glen Moray will releaseCollection, its latest the 21 year chocolate but flavours.

Ideal food pairing would be something simplethe whisky. A addition to the Heritage with enough substance and character to balance additionold to Portwood. the HeritageToCollection, the 21 year this release but with enough substance and to balance find out more about mixed charcuterie andcharacter cheese board wouldthe bewhisky. perfectAfor drawing old Portwood.

To find out more about this release mixed charcuterie and cheese board would be perfect for we spoke with Master Distiller Graham Coull. out the nuances of flavour within the whisky. drawing we spoke with Master Distiller Graham Coull. out the nuances of flavour within the whisky.

The 21YO forms part of the Heritage collection along with The 21YO forms part 15YO of theand Heritage the 12YO, 18YO;collection how doesalong it fit with in terms of a the 12YO, progression 15YO and 18YO; how the doesrange? it fit in terms of a through progression through the range?

The 21YO is very much a progression from the 18YO which is The 21YO matured is very much progression from which is maturation time I in exa bourbon casks.

Sothe for18YO the additional matured inhave ex bourbon casks.

So for thewith additional maturation time I and taken the original spirit its vanilla toffee flavours have takenmerged the original spirit with its vanilla toffee flavours and it with the fruity Port character. With older whiskies the merged it process with theof fruity Port character.

With older whiskies the integrating the different cask characters takes time and process of integrating the different cask characters takes time and therefore the finishing period is in excess of two years. therefore the finishing period is in excess of two years.

Glen Moray experiments with a lot of different casks and Glen Moray experiments with a lot of different casks and has released several great expressions finished in Port has released several great expressions finished in Port Pipes; what qualities and characteristics do you feel these Pipes; what qualities and characteristics do you feel these casks bring to the whisky? casks bring to the whisky?

Many different types of cask have been used for finishing over the Many different types of cask have been used for finishing over the years, but I find that Port is the favourite amongst consumers. The years, but I find that Port is the favourite amongst consumers. The sweet Port wine character complements the caramel toffee and sweet Port wine character complements the caramel toffee and spice from the ex bourbon casks perfectly. The red ruby colour spice from the ex bourbon casks perfectly. The red ruby colour which the Port imparts also adds to the appeal by giving the which the Port imparts also adds to the appeal by giving the consumers an idea of how the whisky will taste. consumers an idea of how the whisky will taste.

Regarding the recent changes in the casks permitted to Regarding the recent changes in the casks permitted to mature Scotch Whisky by the SWA, do you think that Port mature Scotch Whisky by the SWA, do you think that Port and Wine Casks will in general beor used less, or simply and Wine Casks in general be usedwill less, simply supplemented by spectrum a broaderofspectrum supplemented by a broader casks? of casks?

Introducing Introducing Glen Moray 21YO Glen Moray 21YO

recentwechanges will seespectrum a broaderofspectrum Given the Given recentthe changes will seewe a broader casks of casks used but of the proof of the pudding withdrinking be in the so to being usedbeing but the proof the pudding with be in the so drinking to Thetypes new cask have no proveninpedigree speak. Thespeak. new cask havetypes no proven pedigree whisky in whisky maturation and therefore ultimately the whisky consumer will maturation and therefore ultimately the whisky consumer will decide if they stand of time orcasks not. Wine in my opinion decide if they stand the test of the timetest or not.

Wine in mycasks opinion suitwhiskies youngerbest whiskies bestPort whereas Port cask deliver great results suit younger whereas cask deliver great results across a wider age range.

This is demonstrated by the across a wider age range. This is demonstrated by the fact I have fact I have now created two Port finished Moray expressions now created two Port finished Glen MorayGlen expressions firstly the firstly the Glen Moray Classic Finish Portwood Finishthe and now the Glen Glen Moray Classic Portwood and now Glen Moray 21YOMoray 21YO Finish.

Portwood Portwood Finish.

Master Distiller Graham Coull Master Distiller Graham Coull

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