Kitchen all stars

These trailblazing women can stand the heat. Helene Darroze, Dalad Kambhu and Elizabeth Haig are leading a quiet kitchen revolution.

Helene Darroze

On top of the world

Helene Darroze is a French chef who has often been dubbed ‘the world’s finest female chef’.

She earned her first three Michelin stars at her London restaurant, Hélène

Darroze at The Connaught and also runs Hélène Darroze in Paris, as well as Joia and Marsan which has two stars, and now Villa La Coste in the Luberon too. She appeared in Top Chef and even had a chef Barbie doll created in her honor!

With a family restaurant in the background, was it a natural progression?

“I am the fourth generation of my family to cook. My father, grand-father and grandmother, great grand-father and great grand-mother were all chefs. Also, my great great grandmother on my mother’s side. Food is in my DNA, and my mother told me that I understood how to taste before I could even walk. I started to cook when I was very young and began with cakes like most children”.

Alain Ducasse convinced you to move from office to kitchen - how did that happen?

“I realised that I wanted to be a chef quite late. I was 24, and it was after studying at university. In fact, I started working for Alain Ducasse in his office and not his kitchen. When he saw my passion, he encouraged me to work as a chef. To this day, I have never regretted my choice. I am lucky enough to transfer my passion into a job, and there is not a single day where I am bored to go to work.” to our restaurants to have a beautiful experience, to be happy, and it is our responsibility to deliver. I travel between Paris, London and Provence regularly and am in constant communication with each restaurant. My team is also, of course, an integral part of this. I have a very stable and loyal team who completely embrace my cuisine, my vision, and I can count on them to relay who I am.”

2 stars in Paris, 3 in London - do the Michelin stars still have the same effect on you or are you becoming ’used’ to them?

“It is always very special. This year, the third star was the most emotional moment in my professional life. Since childhood, I have admired these chefs, and suddenly I joined them amongst this small world of three Michelin star restaurants. For sure, it is a big team achievement, and I was so happy and proud of the team; 3 Michelin stars is the holy grail for a chef. But it should not be the end, and we must continue to improve and do better. Every day is a new day. I now say to the team; we need to invent the fourth star.” “The advice I’ve always given to female chefs is: be yourself, be a woman; embrace your femininity; and cook as a woman. “

If they choose, women can play an integral role in the culinary and gastronomic scene; great examples include Dominique Crenn, Elena Arzak, Anne-Sophie Pic, Clare Smyth, and more. I always remember Alain Ducasse’s advice when I first started; ‘there is a place for women’. He was right and is great at supporting women to succeed.”

What is your motto in life?

“To be yourself. Not to try to be someone else or look like someone else. It is so important to be in harmony with yourself. As a person, as a chef and for women as a woman.”

How would you describe your cuisine in one sentence?

“Regarding my way of cooking, I have chosen to cook with instinct, generosity and emotion and forget technique a little. That is not my priority. I am not in my restaurant to showcase specific skills; I am just here to give pleasure to people.”

A restaurant in Paris, in London and in the Luberon - how do you juggle all this?

“My focus and motivation every day is to give joy to my guests. People come

Any mentors or any special people that helped you make your choices?

“My family. They’ve certainly influenced me to be in line with their philosophy and spirit towards ingredients.”

What advice would you give other young aspiring women chefs? Is it still a man’s world?

“I am lucky enough to transfer my passion into a job, and there is not a single day where I am bored to go to work.”

As someone who travels the world, what did you take from each destination?

“Travel hugely influences my cooking. On any of my trips, I explore the markets, visit the restaurants, and engage with the locals. So many of my dishes were inspired by my travels including, Coquilles Saint-Jacques with tandoori spices and Le Retour d’Hanoi, which stems from my time in Vietnam.” Follow Helene @helenedarroze

Dalad Kambhu

From Bangkok to Berlin

Although she was born in Austin, Texas, Dalad grew up in Bangkok learning all about Thai food. After a stint in New York, where she worked as a model and in hospitality. She moved to Berlin in her late twenties and opened Kin Dee in February 2017 earning a Michelin star within three years propelling 33-year-old Dalad to the rare elite of the world’s top Michelin starred female chefs.

Dd the always have your heart set on becoming a chef?

“I actually wanted to be an artist. Before I dreamt of becoming an interior designer too. Then, later I wanted to design the interior of airplanes, then it was window displays! But, it’s always been on the creative side!”

What prompted you to switch careers and start cooking?

“I became a self trained chef to follow my passion. I really always loved food so much and when I missed my home food, I had to cook it myself. It started there.” She adds: “my first year in New York wasn’t easy. I wanted to give up. It was hard for me as I didn’t speak English very well. Things were tough. My mother asked me if I wanted to give up everything and come home. She sort of pushed me, knowing my inner fighter would come out and that I would not giving up.” well as my mother, particularly, Rirkrit (her business partner), Doug and my grandfather.”

You have been quoted as saying “You decide for yourself what you want your future to look like.” Is that why you left Thailand for the US, and then Germany?

“A sense of learning and seeing the world and to see what else I could become. It’s great to experience new cultures and learning to see new perspectives. I would not be who I am had I only lived in one country in my life, but it can be really stressful too, when your future or well-being is at the mercy of others. To tell you the truth, she says “I’ve had very mixed experiences with the German authorities.”

How did the idea of Kin Dee come about ?

“Like its name - Kin Dee translates as ‘eat well’. Eat thoughtfully created, sourced and made in an ethically run restaurant. Well, at least we try! Our cuisine is honest and thoughtful” are basically male chefs in women’s bodies. They are so mean and brutal to other women and it was because they were trained in the men’s world and accepted the stupid rules. In life and in the kitchen I believe it’s important to be honest to myself.”

So, where is home now - Berlin or Bangkok?

“They can’t be any more opposite! Bangkok life is like walking on a canal in Kreuzberg on Sunday and you end up at Berghain. You never know what to expect and full of surprises. Warmth, love, welcoming and generosity. I was lucky to have that for 20 years. I hope to visit

“Honestly, covid has changed my family between Christmas and New Year, my perspective of what is home. Home is where my heart feels safe but given the current covid situation, it’s very hard to plan. and serene. I think my friends and community give me that feeling.” Berlin isn’t really home yet. I tried to learn the language but it has been difficult. I work so much and it’s the first Language in my life I can’t naturally pick up from living in the city. I think I was yelled at by many Germans when I first moved here my brain shut itself off. The meaning of “Home” is changing. Honestly, covid has changed my perspective of what is home. Home is where my heart feels safe and serene. I think my friends and community give me that feeling”.

Who else gave you a helping hand along the way?

“Of course, it takes a village to raise a child and a country to help them become an adult. There are many people I needed to be thankful for as

In a traditionally male dominated food industry, you have been vocal about how tough it is being a female chef. Is it still a man’s world?

“It is- and let’s change it. Don’t play by the rules that don’t make sense to you. I have met some women chefs that

What’s next in 2022?

“I think I am ready for the next chapter of my life!”

Follow Dalad @daladk

Elizabeth Haigh

Mei Mei Masterchef

Elizabeth Haigh is a Singaporeanborn chef who became a household name after competing on MasterChef UK in 2011, then won a Michelin star at Pidgin in

Hackney. Today she runs the kopitiam

Mei Mei in Borough Market in London, focusing on Peranakan and

Singaporean dishes.

What did the young Elizabeth Haigh dream of becoming?

“I dreamt of being an architect and designing buildings when I was younger, so I found my way into University to study it.” and business partner shares the parental duties and work with me!

Which 3 decisions would you say changed your life path - for the better?

“1. Deciding to change careers from Architecture to the food industry. 2. Sticking it out in a new industry, despite it being extremely difficult as a young female chef. 3. Sticking to my gut and opening the restaurant at the right time. We tried to open many other projects but it wasn’t the right time, and now we’ve learnt a great deal opening Mei Mei, and doing it all on our own, we can’t replace that experience and knowledge.”

Any mentors who had a hand in your destiny?

“I’ll always credit Neil Rankin of Temper Soho and Temper City for helping push me into becoming a stronger chef that doesn’t take any bulls*t, but also my mother for giving me the knowledge and respect of our heritage that I love cooking and representing now.”

What advice would you give other aspiring women chefs? Is it still a man’s world?

“It’s never been a man’s world. It’s always been portrayed as a man’s world. There are so many incredible female chefs that are doing amazing work, and it’s just about helping the media change their narrative and focusing more on their work. My advice would be to any young woman in any industry, listen to your gut and intuition. Don’t be pressured into doing something you aren’t comfortable with and find yourself a mentor that can help you, guide you or even just give some advice at a time you’ll find you’d need it most.”

Why did you train in butchery?

“I wanted to learn butchery because I felt it was something I’d like to learn more about. I’ve spent a great deal in the “pastry section” which meant I worked on a lot of desserts, which isn’t my favourite as I don’t have a sweet tooth and the hours are much longer. What fascinated me about butchery is understanding the animal and product, learning how to minimise waste by using every part of the animal and giving it the respect it deserves.”

What prompted you to sign up for MasterChef?

“I was dared by my university colleagues to apply, and I ended up doing quite well, but it was extremely daunting being the youngest in the series, and learning, trying to cook in a studio rather than a proper kitchen. It was totally out of my comfort zone and I felt it showed in my food.”

Having bagged a Michelin star at Pidgin - why leave to go it alone?

“I felt I achieved what I set out to do there, and that was to really refine and define my cooking style that I love and wanted to focus on. The star was a bonus and I’m incredibly proud of that achievement.”

How do you juggle your new venture Mei Mei with new motherhood?

“Motherhood came first, before we opened Mei Mei, therefore I felt we had enough time to spend with our family before the craziness of opening the restaurant. My close family help us a lot and it really benefits that my husband

“Let the food tell the story, it should How would you describe your cuisines in one sentence? sing with passion and love, and if it “I’m a storyteller. I want my doesn’t, it won’t taste as good!” food and my work to share the knowledge and experience of many who’ve lived and shared with us in the past, so it won’t be lost forever. Like a timekeeper!”

What’s next?

“My plans are to spend a great deal of time with my young family and take them travelling when we can again. We also have plans to expand and grow mei mei over the next five years.”

Are there any places still on your ‘bucket’ list to visit in Europe ?

“I’d love to visit Portugal. My husband has been, but I’d love to visit.”

So, do you feel like an expat or a Londoner?

“A local. I’m a North of the river kinda Londoner! But, I do miss Singapore a lot as we used to visit annually to see family, friends and food.” Follow Elizabeth @the_modernchef