The orange widow

Madame Clicquot Orange The Widow

Kasia Dietz finds out how a young widow revolutionised the world of champagne.

In early 19th century France, a woman of any status was considered the responsibility of a man, either her father or her husband. Their role limited to the household, it was only widowed women who had control of their lives and were permitted to work. One such case is the woman who became known as the ‘grande dame’ of the Champagne region.

After Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin’s husband, François Clicquot, died of typhoid at the premature age of 30, Madame Clicquot did what was unheard of at the time. The 27-year-old, inexperienced young mother and widow bought shares from her husband’s family and dedicated herself to running the champagne business. Perhaps it was the passion she shared with her husband that drove her, or it was a way to keep his legacy alive. Or maybe it was her desire not to rely on anyone and to be independent? After persuading men to assist her financially, Madame Clicquot fought against all odds to maintain and expand the champagne house. She changed the name to Veuve ClicquotPonsardin – translated to Widow of Clicquot – and kept the anchor symbolising that her father-in-law, founder of the House in 1772, had chosen. In one of her letters, Madame Clicquot was noted for saying: “If in the search of perfection, we must take two steps at a time, I do believe that we should not be content in only taking one.”

After creating the first known vintage champagne in 1810 using only grapes harvested that year, Madame Clicquot shipped the 1811 ‘comet vintage’ to Saint Petersburg, Russia in 1814. This sparkling success for Veuve Clicquot led to further demands in Europe and an increase in sales. Madame Clicquot also invented the riddling table to improve the wine’s clarification and get crystal clear champagne while speeding up production. This innovation meant turning the bottles upside down to rid them of their yeast. Another claim to fame for this bold businesswoman who set out to carve her own path was the creation of rosé champagne by combining red and white wines. Madame Clicquot believed that rosé champagne should have its own distinct style.

As business expanded and global subsidiaries were established, Madame Clicquot continued to work tireless hours visiting the vineyards and tasting the wines. Her generous spirit even helped injured workers by continuing to pay their salaries. She was also known for her honesty as was evident in one of her letters.

“Sincerity and honesty have always been and will ever be the base and rule in my dealing with things.” It wasn’t until 1841 that she officially introduced associate Edouard Werlé as her successor-to-be. They worked together until Madame Clicquot passed away in 1866 and Werlé took the reins.

Well over a century later, with her champagne house recognised around the world, Madame Clicquot remains an icon and an inspiration. Just pop the cork on a bottle of Veuve Clicquot and there you’ll find the image of Madame Clicquot Ponsardin, forever immortalised.

“If in the search of perfection, we must take two steps at a time, I do believe that we should not be content in only taking one.”