Where® Thailand November 2016

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A NATION IN MOURNING Thailand is now in a state of mourning. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej passed away on Oct 13, 2016 after 70 years on the throne, and the government has called for an official nationwide mourning period. Though most visitors’ travel plans should not be affected, tourists are advised during this time to be aware of the situation and act appropriately.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has put out the following advice for visitors: • Many Thai people will be wearing black or white clothing as a sign of mourning. This is not required of visitors but if possible, they should wear somber and respectful clothing when in public.

• Visitors should refrain from conducting any inappropriate or disrespectful behavior.

• Tourist attractions will be open as usual with the exception of Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and the Grand Palace, as they will be the venue of the Royal Funeral Rites.

• The Government has asked for the cooperation of entertainment venues, such as bars and nightclubs, to consider the opening of their business operations during this time. The decision will be made by the individual owners.

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• Most of the traditional and cultural events will be taking place as usual, although the celebrations may be changed for appropriateness as a mark of respect, or the events may be dedicated to the memory of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

• All transport, banks, hospitals and other public services will be operating as usual.

• The related authorities have stepped up safety and security measures for all Thais and visitors to facilitate travel.

• For any enquiries, please contact our TAT domestic offices or Tel.: 1672.

Source: www.tatnews.org

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l NOVEMBER 2016

GO WITH THE FLOW

Picturesque restaurants, bars and attractions along the Chao Phraya River.

The Guide

6

BANGKOK

24 NIGHTLIFE Head outdoors and enjoy November's breezy evenings at Bangkok's best alfresco bars.

25 DINING Enjoy local flavors among friends at these inventive and relaxed Thai-style tapas joints.

28 SHOPS+SERVICES In these eclectic concept stores, you'll find the coolest labels in town for men and women.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

16

EXPLORING

Check in for an afternoon of pampering at Bangkok's most indulgent luxury spas.

16 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

30 ATTRACTIONS

Two of the hippest streets in town are paved with eclectic restaurants serving global cuisines and vibrant bars packed with the city's party crowd.

From Ramakien classics to kitsch spectaculars, don't miss the top shows in town.

31 ART

18 SIAM

Check out the city's hottest artistic talent at these contemporary galleries.

Plan your shopping spree with our guide to Bangkok's busiest retail area, complete with everything from luxury brands to local designers.

32 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

20 CHINATOWN The crumbling streets of Yaowarat are home to Bangkok's best street food plus happening new bars and galleries.

ALSO INSIDE 4

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

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Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Art Director Dith Chang

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Staff Writer Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

Contributors Natcha Saguankiattichai, Monrueduee Jansuttipan, Earn Saenmuk, Tessa Domzalski Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Cover by Nut Onaree

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

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@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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EXPLORING BANGKOK

RIVERSIDE WONDERS

As the weather cools down, it’s time to head to the Chao Phraya and enjoy its five-star restaurants and bars.

THAI FOOD CHON The luxurious Siam Hotel is a destination in itself, and its signature restaurant, Chon, is no less beautiful than the rest of this sprawling, Art Deco-themed riverside mansion. The teak builiding was brought down river to Bangkok from Ayutthaya, Thailand’s ancient capital, and is filled with antique Buddhas and elegant pieces of furniture. The food is simple and authentic, with dishes that represent Thailand’s various culinary regions, from the curries of Chiang Mai to papaya salads of Isaan.

The Siam, 3/2 Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Open daily noon-11pm

KODANG TALAY SEAFOOD Set in a renovated warehouse where nautical decor meets modern industrial touches (think heavy wooden tables and ropes hanging from the ceiling), this laidback seafood restaurant boasts a massive outdoor seating area right by the river.

Although locals tend to order the deepfried sea bass and garoupa, the restaurant also makes rare Thai dishes such as the Southern-style gaeng som kai pla dook talay (sour and spicy soup with sea catfish eggs)—perfect with an ice-cold beer.

Room Warehouse 7, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Soi 76, 092-2845610. Open daily 5pm-midnight

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR It might be a boutique hotel, but half of this four-story renovated shop-house is dedicated to wining and dining in full view of the riverside’s star attraction, Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Pull up a seat on the outdoor terrace to feast on a menu that goes down two routes: one, elegantly plated Thai classics and regional specialties; the other, Western bistro food like crispy pork belly and tuna tartare. For us, though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails.

Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-6221388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:3010pm

CHON

KODANG TALAY SEAFOOD

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SALA RIM NAAM The Mandarin Oriental’s signature Thai restaurant, Sala Rim Naam (“Room at the Water’s Edge”) combines classic “royal Thai” cuisine with a theater experience, offering diners a glimpse of local culture as they tuck into their multi-course meals.

Many consider the restaurant a must-try for new arrivals to the city.

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7390. Open MonWed noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Fri noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Sat noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Sun noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

SALA RIM NAAM

THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER With its warehouse vibe and prime riverside location within The Jam Factory, which also houses a gallery space, architects offices and book store, this kitchen dishes out food made from starchitect Duangrit Bunnag’s family Thai recipes, many of which are not very common at all. Make sure you try their nam prik (chili paste), which we find very impressive and deep in flavor. Plus, it’s served with a big tray of local vegetables.

THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER

THIPTARA

41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0953. Open Mon 11am-11pm

THIPTARA Thiptara means water from the heavens in Thai, a fitting name for the open-air pavilions surrounded by gardens and furnished with with antiques and traditional artworks. The kitchen serves up traditional dishes from Thailand’s different regions, such as the restaurant’s signature dishes gaeng phed ped yang (roasted duck in red curry) and pla hima sam rod (deepfried snow fish with spicy, sweet and sour sauce).

The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-2888. Open daily 6-10:30pm

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EXPLORING BANGKOK

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ATTITUDE

VIVA AVIV

RIVERSIDE DRINKS ATTITUDE Sitting on top of the riverside Avani hotel, this rooftop restaurant-slash-bar offers views of the river from 26 floors above Bangkok.

The vast, well-stocked bar stands up front among outdoor tables, offering both classic and refreshing signature drinks.Food comes in the form a list of playful Asian-inspired tapas like smoked duck with nampla lacquer and tea gel and lamb shoulder in the form of a lollipop. The chefs in the open kitchen also make filling dishes like grilled ahi tuna and Aussie wagyu beef tomahawk steak. Don’t miss creative desserts like the Xtra Virgin, which features apple in five forms.

THREESIXTY JAZZ LOUNGE

BABBLE & RUM

VIVA AVIV

For pretty views without the wind, the Three Sixty Bar’s location on the 32nd floor of a riverside hotel lets you watch barges navigate the Chao Phraya as you comfortably sit by the slanted windows and sip on a cocktail or glass of wine. Aim to get there just before sunset to enjoy the stunning views of the twilight sky over Wat Arun and the Grand Palace along the Chao Phraya River.

The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Arthit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and inter-comfort food and plenty of cocktails. Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

Pirate chic meets industrial charm at this always-popular riverside watering hole. Old wooden crates form the bar, with lobster traps accessorizing the walls and sailboat hardware hanging from the ceiling. Soak up the river view and enjoy bistro-style food and inventive, well-made cocktails like the Pina Colasi (Appleton Jamaican rum, fresh pineapple, orange and black pepper syrup, citrus and fresh young coconut foam).

Millenium Hilton Bangkok, 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am

1/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000.

Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm

Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-431-9100. Open daily 5:30pm-1am

THREESIXTY JAZZ LOUNGE

B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02639-6305. Open daily 11am-midnight

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ADVERTORIAL

One Day in Siam How to spend a day exploring inner Bangkok’s shopping mecca.

Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World

Dior

Madame Tussauds

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iam is home to Bangkok’s best malls. At Siam Paragon, Siam Center and Siam Discovery, you’ll find shopping, entertainment and dining experiences for the whole family. Here’s how to spend your day in this amazing part of the city.

1. Go on a luxury shopping spree

3. Check out some local design talent

Start your day at the jewel in the Siam district’s crown, Siam Paragon—it’s here that any visitor to Bangkok heads at the beginning of a luxury shopping spree. Most of the biggest labels are easily located on the main floor, where you’ll find Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, Jimmy Choo, Loewe, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Givenchy and many more. Also don’t miss the designer multi-label accessories store Club 21, nor the range of fine watches and jewelry.

Next up, head over to Siam Center. This mall neighboring Paragon is where you’ll find the very best of young, home-grown designers. Most of them are concentrated on the third floor, where Greyhound offers contemporary clothing with a focus on menswear, while Senada features classically feminine pieces. Other brands worth checking out include Milin (youthful yet sexy), Fly Now (sophisticated, tailored) and Disaya (playful and edgy). Be sure to also drop by The Selected multi-label store—a must-visit not just for fashion but also cool finds like coffee table books and home decor.

2. Take the kids for a fun-filled morning Luckily, your kids won’t get bored during a shopping session at Paragon, where the basement is home to Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium, Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World. The space is home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species, and also offers familyfriendly activities such as diving with sharks, 5D cinema experiences, creature feeding, backof-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day.

4. Discover “The Biggest Arena of Lifestyle Experiments” Following a gigantic renovation, the shopping center next door to Siam Center, Siam Discovery, has been transformed into one of the most exciting malls in the city. Under its “Exploratorium” concept, you’ll find an amazing array of products drawn from every school of design. Incredible, design-forward finds can be discovered in five different shopping

Website: www.siamcenter.co.th, www.siamdiscovery.co.th, www,siamparagon.co.th

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Thai Designer

categories. Highlights include O.D.S. (Objects of Desire Store), which brims with Thai home decor finds, top European decor labels like Hay and Habitat, as well as standout Japanese designers such as Issey Miyake, Yoshio Kubo and Discord by Yohji Yamamoto.

5. Feast on delicious international dining options While you’re at Siam Discovery, don’t miss some of the city’s best restaurant names. Latest to arrive on the scene is Jamie’s Italian (opens in November), which dishes out classic Italian fare as designed by Britain’s leading celebrity chef, Jamie Oliver. Also at Siam Discovery, Outback Steakhouse is the easygoing Australian chain known for deliciously well-grilled meats. If what you’re looking for is a light bite and a coffee, check out Billboard Cafe, the first cafe in the world associated with the famous music magazine, where they serve high-quality deli dishes and drinks from Dean & DeLuca.

6. Get up close and personal with celebs Or at least with identical, life-size waxwork models of celebrities. The world-famous Madame Tussauds is now also in Bangkok, located in Siam Discovery mall and bursting with familiar famous faces like Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, Vin Diesel and Lady Gaga.

: SIAMCENTER, SIAMDISCOVERY, SIAMPARAGON.CO.TH

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EXPLORING BANGKOK ITALIAN CIAO TERRAZZA Italian cuisine courtesy of one of Bangkok’s most lauded chefs, a riverside alfresco terrace and the Mandarin Oriental’s iconic Author’s Lounge in the background make this one of the Chao Phraya River’s most easy-to-recommend spots. It’s more casual than the other restaurants at Bangkok’s oldest, most formal hotel (though they’ll still shoo you away if you turn up in shorts), dishing out Italian staples like pappardelle with tender Ferrara-style spare rib stew as well as wood-fired pizzas.

CIAO TERRAZZA

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40, Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 6-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

PEPPINA

CIAO TERRAZZA

PEPPINA

CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO BANGKOK IS PUTTING ON BANGKOK’S BEST FESTIVITIES. 24th December Christmas Eve Chatuchak Café Dinner buffet-style Christmas fare - Italian, Asian, grilled, and seafood classics are all on the menu.

From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

THB 1,499++ (food only).

Don Giovanni For the ultimate Italian Christmas dinner, there’s a special and spectacular à la carte menu.

From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Blue Sky Restaurant A festive à la carte menu for a fabulous French-style Christmas Eve dinner.

From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

25th December Christmas Day Chatuchak Café Celebrate Christmas with friends and family at this festive themed brunch and dinner buffet · Christmas Day Brunch Buffet From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

THB 1,499++ (food only).

· Christmas Day Dinner Buffet From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

THB 1,499++ (food only).

Don Giovanni Celebrate Christmas Day with the irresistible flavors of Italy.

From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Special à la carte menu.

Wanting to make the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok, chef Paolo Vitaletti (also of the highly esteemed Appia on Sukhumvit) orders his massive pizza ovens directly from Italy for each branch of this popular pizzeria. The result is one of the best Italian pizzas in town, officially recognized by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, and served on a menu that also includes a variety of fresh salads, specialty cold cuts and hearty grilled meats.

Tha Maharaj, 11/1, Maharaj Rd., 02-024-1330.

Open daily 11am-9:30pm

VOLTI Part comfort food, part Italian fine dining, this imposingly glamorous restaurant boasts some of the best views on the river.

Dishes range from classic favorites—burratina salad, beef lasagna, freshly cooked pizzas and succulent grilled meats—to elegant mains of braised wagyu beef cheek in red wine sauce and black cod with roasted tomato and cannellini beans. A choice of some 150 wines completes the experience.

Lobby/F, Shangri-La, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, 02-2367777. Open daily 6-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

Blue Sky Restaurant Make the most of Noel French-style with Chef Eric Berrigaud’s fabulous Christmas Day feast.

From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Special à la carte menu.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATION T: 02 541 1234 EXT. 4151 | E: fb_office@chr.co.th centarahotelsresorts.com/cglb

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CONCIERGE PICKS What are your favorite places along the river?

Chettha Khambunditkul, Anantara Bangkok Riverside I always enjoy a visit to Klong Bang Luang (315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Phet Kasem Rd.).

It’s a good place to learn about the traditional canal lifestyle, and there’s lots of local artwork on display here, as well as a puppet theater show. Wat Paknam Bhasicharoen and Wat Raja-O-Ros are nearby, too.

INTERNATIONAL GRILLS RIVERSIDE GRILL This lounge bar and grill is an easy-to-love hit thanks to the enormous Banyan tree which shades the cabana-like bar as well as picturesque, unobstructed river views. The food doesn’t try anything too challenging— simple but well-executed Thai and Western grill dishes—but delivers quality ingredients, whether it’s the Aussie wagyu beef ribeye or local favorites like grilled chicken and barbecue pork skewers. To drink, go for something fruity, feel-good and with a local slant, like the Mangkut Drowning (Barbados dark rum with mangosteen puree).

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 2 Charoekrung Soi 30, 02-266-9214. Open daily 5-10:30pm, 4pm-1am

TRADER VIC’S Known for its Mai Tai cocktails and Pacific Rim cuisine, the Polynesian-inspired Trader Vic’s also has a good selection of grilled meats and fish, plus foie gras and French oysters. A stunning view of the river is a bonus, as are the signature dishes of Ahi Poke, raw tuna with avocado, soy-chili dressing, taro chips and spareribs in Trader Vic’s classic barbecue sauce. The Sunday brunch is a great way to feel on vacation without leaving Bangkok.

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-476-0022 ext. 1416. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am; Sun 11:30am-3pm

Wirawat Khongnoi, S31 Sukhumvit Hotel For good food, a great atmosphere and affordable prices I recommend Baan Klang Nam (288 Ban Klang Nam Alley, Rama 3 Rd.), a riverside Thai restaurant that has been around for more than 10 years. You can find all the classic Thai dishes there, plus a really nice view of the river.

Prapanpong Pongoukos-kun, Westin Grande Sukhumvit Hotel I love Asiatique (2194/ Charoenkrung Rd.) because it has a great variety of attractions all in one place, whether you are looking for food, shopping or cultural shows. It’s lovely just to stroll around in the evening and enjoy the river breeze. My favorite restaurant there is Kodang Talay (see page 6).

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EXPLORING BANGKOK

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AMAZING CHAROENKRUNG Charoenkrung is a street that runs parallel to the river and one of the oldest roads in Bangkok. Lined on one side by riverside-facing luxury hotels, the road is also home to some of Bangkok’s oldest and most authentic eateries. Thanks to the crumbling charm of its old ThaiChinese shop-houses, a new breed of cool bars and art spaces have also been popping up in the neighborhood.

Eat Like a Local

ON LOK YUN

Much of Chareonkrung’s charm is that the new and old sit side by side. The cozy On Lok Yun (72 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-233-9621. Open daily from 6am-4pm) has been a local diner favorite for over 80 years, and makes a popular choice for a Thaistyle American breakfast and a good cup of joe.

Another locals’ favorite, Prachak Pet Yang (1415 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-234-3755. Open daily 8am8:30pm) has been serving roast duck and crispy pork for almost a century.

Discover Emerging Bangkok Artists

SPEEDY GRANDMA

A number of young galleries have opened on the street in recent years. One of the first to arrive was Speedy Grandma (672/50-52 Charoenkrung Soi 28, 089-508-3859. Open daily 11am-7pm), which exhibits young artists’ work in a space which frequently welcomes rowdy opening parties. Nearer to BTS Saphan Taksin, Bridge (Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086-986-9421. Open Wed-Mon 10am-10pm) doubles as a coffee shop, while MoST (672/63

Charoenkrung Soi 26, 02-639-6582. Appointment only) serves as a creative agency that exhibits its and other artists’ work.

Explore the Riverside’s Heritage The area between soi 34-44 is rich with architectural attractions. Among them is the Old Customs House (Charoenkrung Soi 36), which dates back to 1880 and was once the trading gate between Bangkok and the rest of the world. It now serves as the fire brigade’s headquarters. Religious highlights include the Thai-Chinese Wat Suan Phlu temple (Charoenkrung Soi 42/1) and Assumption Cathedral (Charoenkrung Soi 40), a Roman Catholic church dating back to the 1900s. There’s also a strong Muslim community based around the Haroon Mosque (Charoenkrung Soi 36). Once the city’s largest wooden mosque, it has since been reconstructed in concrete but remains in keeping with traditional Islamic design.

Be a part of WHERE Guestbook 2017, the in-room guide to Thailand’s best bars, restaurants, shops and services from the most recognized global travel publication.

COMING THIS DECEMBER

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+ where I DOI ANGKANG

NOR LAE VILLAGE

Cultural Route

ROYAL RESORT

His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s Northern agricultural program has developed into a beautiful tourist destination in the mountains.

I

n a bid to rid Northern Thailand’s hillside regions of opium fields, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej founded what has become known as the Royal Projects in Doi Angkang in 1969. Utilizing the region’s cool climate, His Majesty’s plan for farmers to grow high-value, low-yield native crops like peaches has become a national success story. Almost 50 years later, the valley is a thriving tourist attraction, replete with beautiful gardens and fruit plantations. Here’s everything you need to know to visit this remarkable area of the country.

Farm Route

Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station is where the Royal Projects first began. On the 2.2-kilometer ring road around the station, you can hop out and visit plantations where they grow various kinds of cool weather fruits such as pears, peaches, strawberries, persimmon, kiwi fruit, pomegranate and blueberries. Don’t miss the Japanese apricot plot, where apricot trees dot a lush green carpetlike field. For flower lovers, this is paradise, especially during Dec-Jan, when the English Rose Garden and Bonsai Garden are in full bloom. When the afternoon arrives, a visit to the Tea Storage is a must, where you can ride by mule around the fields—contact the station in advance at 053-450107/9, www.angkhangstation.com. The real good news is that now’s the perfect time of year to see the Japanese sakura blossom, which comes out in late November, unlike the praya suekrong (Thai cherry blossom), which blooms in late December or early January.

Brought to you by TAT

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Food Route

You don’t need to search far and wide for good food at the Royal Agricultural Station. Head to Angkhang Club for a true taste of the valley with a long list of dishes ranging from hill tribe specialties to produce from the Royal Projects. Their kha moo with man tou (braised pork with fried Chinese bun, B100) is particularly delicious, as is the nam prik Angkhang (B80), a dipping sauce made using the hill tribes’ fermented soy bean paste recipe. Salads are also highly recommended thanks to ingredients picked fresh from the station. Other dining options require a bit of exercise, but if you head to Ban Luang Village you can try the tasty khao soi (curry noodles) made in the Yunnan style at Ali (053-969-431, 081-022-6570). The soup here is clearer and not as thick as the typical Northern version. Their salapao (stuffed Chinese bun) with black bean is an adventurous dessert option, you should try.

There are three main villages where visitors can get a glimpse of the local hill tribe culture, the most popular being Nor Lae village. The villagers belong to the Palong or Dara-ang tribes and are the main people responsible for growing the produce at Angkhang station. The Nor Lae military base sits on the hill above the village, providing another panoramic view of Myanmar’s mountains.

Next stop, Khob Dong village, home to the Mu Ser Dam tribe who live here in bamboo houses dotting the hill. The slightly more developed Ban Luang village, meanwhile, is a Yunnan settlement where a lot of Chinese migrated to during WWII.

Sunrise Route

There are many spots to catch the sunrise, the easiest to reach being the Angkhang Military Base, near the camping point on the way to Nor Lae village. Choose from the wooden terrace at the military compound or the small hill at the camping point. After watching the sun come up, stretch your legs on the 30-minute Nor Lae trekking route, which offers great views of the mountains over in Myanmar. Another perfect way to spend the morning is by paying a visit to the strawberry fields and tea fields of the 2000 Plantation—nothing like a view of a misty mountainside to start the day. You can also spot mountains carpeted with rhododendron some 4.5 kilometers from the station.

Essentials

Where to stay Angkhang Station Guesthouse

Cozy accommodation is offered on-site at the station for two to five people per room. 053-450107/9, www.angkhangstation.com

Angkhang Nature Resort

Owned by the Royal Project Foundation but run by hoteliers, the resort sits in front of the station. As the weather gets pretty cold in the winter, the hotel is equipped with electric blankets.

Rates start from B3,000 for a mountain view room and B3,500 for a garden view. 053-450-110, bit.ly/16nQ6MH

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whereExploring NOVEMBER 2016 | BANGKOK

SUKHUMVIT SOI 51-65 Nearly all the streets—or “soi,” in Thai—along Sukhumvit Road are known by their number. But Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) have made names for themselves. These two parallel streets are quite simply the most buzzing in Bangkok, home to the best bars, clubs and restaurants. Here is our pick of the bunch.

EVIL MAN BLUES

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 16 THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

18 SIAM

20 CHINA TOWN

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We provide inside & outside massage service 24 hour 7 Days/week

What a great way to end a hectic day of travel, work or sightseeing ❀ Foot Massage & Foot Scrub

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Traditional Thai Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Oil/Aromatherapy Oil Massage

999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Thai Massage & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Aromatherapy Oil & Body Scrub

1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage & Body Scrub

1,999 THB/ 2 Hrs

Call us to schedule your appointment at

Address: 6/9 Soi Phom Sri 1, Sukhumvit 39 Klongton-Nua, Wattana Bangkok 10110

Mobile. 082-111-2213, Tel. 02-662-6623.

www.baanthaitouch.com. Nearest BTS: Phom Phong Station

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EXPLORING

THONGLOR & EKKAMAI Y HOT SPOTS

Big in Japan A massive Japanese community makes this one of Bangkok’s best locations for ramen, sushi and sake.

@1 Honmono Sushi The excellent sushi here is reasonably priced, plus the restaurant isn’t a bewildering experience for neophytes.

Years after opening, it still packs in affluent Thais every night (reservations are a must) with its fresh fish from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.

19 Thonglor Soi 23, 02-185-1447.

Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2pm

NEW

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LITTLE BAO

This delicious Chinese bun institution comes all the way from Hong Kong in the form of a trendy retro-style diner serving up chef May Chow’s playful fast food-inspired take on traditional Chinese fare. Set in one of the city’s most happening nightlife community malls, it dishes out serious bao burgers stuffed with fillings like pork belly, crispy Sichuan chicken, fish tempura and shiitake tempeh. Also don’t miss the ice-cream bao, which feature Guss Damn Good’s creamy flavors sandwiched between golden fried buns.

G/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-6922. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

THINGS TO DO

SHOPPING

There are only a few art spaces in this neighborhood, but they are among the more interesting in town. 1 Pridi Banomyong Institute (65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 02-3813860-1), for example, is the theater of choice for some of Thailand’s youngest and most experimental dancers and actors.

Check the B-Floor Theater Group’s Facebook page (www.fb.com/Bfloor. theatre.group) prior to visiting for upto-date information on shows. Further down the same street, 2 Ardel’s Third Place Gallery (137-137/1 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-714-7929) showcases work from both established and emerging local artists in a striking space, with its concrete floor, vast windows, whitewashed walls and exposed steel beams. After browsing the gallery, head to the next street over to visit 3 Health Land (96/1 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-392-2233), where you’ll get one of the best-priced massages in Bangkok.

Clean, private treatment rooms and efficient staff account for its massive local popularity.

This is hipster central, and shopping around Ekkamai-Thonglor is all about vintage. 4 Machine Age Workshop (281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596) is an ambitious vintage fashion and furniture store set in a giant, open-plan warehouse. It specializes in repurposed odds and ends from America’s manufacturing age: army drafting tables, wood radios and leather luggage. They also do a good beef brisket sandwich, if you’re feeling peckish. Be warned, some of the items are pretty expensive, although that doesn’t mean bargains can’t be found. For a more guaranteed wallet-friendly bet, head up the street to leather-specialist

MACHINE AGE WORKSHOP

@2 Mikaku This spin-off from an 80-year-old restaurant in Japan is known for serving some of the most revered Japanese beef in the world. The family’s third-generation owner and chef mans the grill himself, selecting only A4-5 graded wagyu from Kobe and hand-slicing tenderloin and sirloin to the perfect thickness.

103/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between soi 3 and 5. 02-712-9080.

Open daily 5-11pm; Sat, Sun noon-2pm

UNFASHION

5 Unfashion (Ekkamai Soi 10, 094421-2411), where brogues, loafers, duck boots, belts and other accessories in various states of disrepair can be browsed while sipping a coffee from the adjoining cafe. Visit 6 Again & Again (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 089-486-5359) for something a little more feminine. Unlike other raggedlooking vintage stores, this It-shop hooks its customers up with glittery dresses, shirts and a selection of highquality skirts and pants. Crate-diggers should drop by 7 Zud Rang Ma Records (7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-8911314), one of the best record stores in town, stocking an eclectic collection of vintage Thai funk and global sounds.

@3 Teppen Tucked behind Major Sukhumvit cinema, this wooden-floored pub is a favorite among Japanese expats looking for a taste of home. The warm lighting and sincere staff create a friendly, authentic vibe.

14/2 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1412.

Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

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THONGLOR & EKKAMAI

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Tucked inside a narrow lane, this cool, intimate shop-house bar is favored by Bangkok’s local and expat hipsters. The ground floor features a small corner bar with retro touches like old movie posters, vintage bench seating and flowery tiles. Head there early to ensure a table if you’re too self-conscious to stand around outside (where most of the crowd congregates) and be sure to check out the upstairs gallery.

7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo. www.wtfbangkok.com

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!2 Supanniga Eating Room (160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508), where the mix of Eastern Seaboard and Isaan food makes for arguably the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and !3 Phuket Town (160/8 Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402), with its classic Southern dishes. For the best Thai dessert around, don’t

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NIGHTLIFE Well-to-do young executives rub shoulders with hotel guests at !6 Octave Rooftop Bar (45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000), which features 360-degree views around a circular bar. The craft-beer stronghold !7 Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, 02-381-9891) attracts a more laidback crowd, and is set in in a charming mid-century house. Meanwhile, !8 Iron Fairies (404 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-8875) boasts a Dickensian factory theme, with crumbling brick walls and a scarttering of ancient industrial machinery. Not all the area’s nightlife is geared at the party crowd.

For some of the city’s top craft cocktails, check out 9 Evil Man Blues (72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02392-7740), The Commons, !9 Rabbit Hole (125 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 081-8223392) and 8 Track 17 (Thonglor Soi 17). And whatever you do, don’t miss @5 WTF (see below) and @0 Studio Lam (02-661-6661), which both count as some of Bangkok’s most fun, laidback spots to spend a Fri-Sat night.

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miss the mango and sticky rice at !4 Maewaree (1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4804)—ours and many others’ absolute favorite. Alternatively, ignore all the fancy bars and restaurants and head to !5 Sabaijai Kebtawan (65 Sukhumvit Soi 63), where a feast of Thai seafood can quickly turn into a Leo beer-fueled karaoke session with friendly locals.

38 Sukhumvit

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

MAEWAREE

Sukhumvit 51

You are in Bangkokians’ food heartland, from street eats to high-end Thai to European fine dining. 8 The Commons (Thonglor Soi 17) is home to some of Bangkok’s best food names.

Visitors can choose from any of the vendors before taking their seat in the communal courtyard. Some of our favorites include Roots (coffee), Peppina (pizza), Meat & Bones (barbecue) and Barrio Bonito (Mexican).

The similarly styled, 9 72 Courtyard (72 Sukhumvit Soi 55) offers casual European barbecue in the form of Lady Brett, New York-style Latin tapas at Toro and Mexican sharing plates at Touche Hombre. For a finer option, !0 Bo.lan (Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-2602962) takes a traditional approach to Thai food with the occasional contemporary tweak in the presentation. Opt for the Bo.lan Balance, a degustation menu that regularly changes to reflect seasonal products. More laidback and with dishes closer to street food, !1 Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 085-9042691) serves a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes.

Don’t leave without trying its excellent, double-strength cocktails. Regional Thai cuisine specialists include

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DINING

1 Pridi Banomyong Institute 2 Ardel’s Third Place Gallery 3 Health Land 4 Machine Age Workshop 5 Unfashion 6 Again & Again 7 Zud Rang Ma Records 8 The Commons - Track 17 9 72 Courtyard - Evil Man Blues !0 Bo.lan !1 Soul Food Mahanakorn

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Supanniga Eating Room Phuket Town Maewaree Sabaijai Kebtawan Octave Mikkeller Iron Fairies Rabbit Hole Studio Lam Honmono Sushi Mikaku Teppen WTF

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SIAM

Y HOT SPOTS

Siam’s Top 3 Restaurants

!8 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin The Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food.

Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

NEW 2 SIAM DISCOVERY A top-to-bottom renovation and total overhaul of the stores inside has really made this once-aging mall a must-visit destination for any shopper. As well as all the big international brands, you’ll find a big focus on the best of local, Thai-made design. Don’t miss O.D.S., a store dedicated to award-winning home decor, jewelry and accessories brands, or the selection of Japanese cult labels like Issey Miyake, Yoshio Kubo and Discord by Yoji Yamamoto. The mall itself is also pretty spectacular, created by Japanese design house Nendo.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam

MANGO MOJITO

SHOP The actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is divided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. It’s like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 1 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416), 2 Dancing Riot (Me & Sons x Selektiv, Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-4863), minimal womenswear brand 3 WWA (Siam Square Soi 7, 02-658-4686) and dapper men’s shoe specialist 4

Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkok’s fashion nursery, then 5 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000) is its graduating class, where the very best local labels can be found. On the third floor, shop for industry leaders like Greyhound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoir—or let the multilabel stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best

Sea Life aquarium. Most recently, 2 Siam Discovery has undergone a huge renovation to place new focus on Thai and Japanese designers. The results are a shopper’s paradise (see box). 7 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while you’ll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The biggest mall is 8 CentralWorld (Ratchadamri Rd., 02-640-7000), with more restaurants and shops than anywhere town.

If you’re in the market for electronic goods, 9 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd.,

SIAM PARAGON

for you. 6 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is its lavish VIP cinema and world class

GAYSORN PLAZA

8 Taling Pling This restaurant specializes in fussfree Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern-style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combination of salty and mildly spicy.

3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm.

BTS Chit Lom. Also at 6 Siam Paragon

!4 Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located at the end of a non-descript soi, in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant shares the traditional home’s refined atmosphere. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spaghetti (spicy spaghetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper.

6/1 Soi Kasaemsan 2, 02-612-3601.

Open daily 10:30 am-6pm. BTS National Stadium.

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SIAM

02-620-9000) is a mecca for cameras, phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious pedigree.

EAT

From khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all. For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or to the second floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-2512861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort

with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legendary crispy chicken. Another Thai food landmark is !2 Seefah (Siam Square Soi 9, 02-251-5517), an 80-year-old diner that serves Chinese-style Thai food. For a bit of vernacular, !3 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02-658-4112) is set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes. Some of the best Cantonese cusine in town is served at 6 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), while Michelin-star dumpling empire 8 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1282) is renowned for its xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings).

Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152)—another popular cocktail spot. Cut through CentralWorld and you’ll be rewarded with incredible views at 8 Red Sky Bar (02100-1234), high up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

DRINK

!4 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368), the former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain.

The corner of Phayathai Road is also home to !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630) where you’ll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established. In-

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

SEE AND DO

Siam Square is not a nightlife area at all.

Most of the shops outside of malls close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here you’ll find niche beer bar 8 HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 8 1881 by Water Library (02-613-1774) and 8 Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo (02-646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi

SOMTAM NUA

Thai food chain !0 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-6644510, also at Siam Center). !1 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880, also at Siam Center) is the area’s most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait

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side you’ll also find the independent book store Hardcover and Gallery Drip Cafe—both well worth a visit. The area also has two stunning religious sites. !6 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais, this often-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the countryside transplanted to the city. Bangkok’s uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !7 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine represents Phra Phrom, Thailand’s representative of the Hindu god of creation. Here you’ll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)—but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

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CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!4 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon 7pm-1am

!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has specialized in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

80/20 Drawing on skills honed at Toronto’s Creme Brasserie, co-owner/chef Napol Jantraget creates food that’s 80-percent local, 20-percent creative tweaks in dishes like the flavorful garden salad (yu choy and chayote shoots, bougainvillea leaves and more with a cream-based dry shrimp lime dressing) or the 80/20 Caesar salad (sauteed brussel sprouts, melting pork belly confit and dressing salted by shrimp paste). Desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are no after-thought either.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

!8 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-midnight; Mon 5pm-midnight.

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hinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

SEE & DO Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique atmosphere. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. 2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site

WAT TRAIMIT

for locals during religious holidays.

Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-2223975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals.

For a more tourist-friendly experience,

head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade.

6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

!7 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

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CHINATOWN

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1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center 2 Wat Traimit 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat 4 Li Thi Miew 5 Guan Yin Shrine Memorial 6 Tang Toh Kang Bridge 7 Yim Yim Pier 8 Jok’s Kitchen Chao 9 Royal India Phray !0 Eiah-Sae a Rive r !1 Double Dogs !2 Soi Nana - El Chiringuito - Teens of Thailand - 23 Bar and Gallery - Tep Bar !3 Grand China Hotel !4 Guy Tiew Kua Gai !5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas !6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek !7 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood !8 80/20 S

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Until recently, Chinatown was never on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surrounding area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, 086,-340-4791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas Lua (fried potatoes) and bocabravas ng Rd. dillos (sandwiches).

Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft cocktail lounges in

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town, !2 Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, 081-443-3784), where a collection of artsists, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !2 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, 086-264-4471) has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between ‘90s Britpop and reggae, while !2Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467 -2944) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd.

Or head up to the 25th floor of the !3 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

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lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes.

EAT Turn on your heels, because here Dining in Chinatown is all about they cook in true Indian grandmother old-school shop-house restaurants style—plenty of cream and ghee. And that have stood in the same spot for be sure to stock up on traditional Indi80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 an sweets on your way out. The area’s Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is old-school tea and coffee houses are a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s also not to be missed. The 87-yearrich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in EIAH-SAE town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee to a packed dining room every night. laced with condensed milk alongDining here is done traditional Chiside charming snacks like custard nese-style, so come with a big enough on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast party to fill one of the large round tawith butter, jam or chocolate spread, bles. While Yaowarat is known for its all charged at rock-bottom prices.

Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., is home to a sizable Indian commu086-329-3075) meanwhile, specialnity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 ChakCharoen Krung Rd izes . in potent, properly brewed teas kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply from across the region. one of the best places in town for

. MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

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ThewhereGuide NOVEMBER 2016 | BANGKOK NEW

BAAN PHADTHAI

This charming little Thai restaurant specializes in pad Thai, arguably Thailand’s most famous dish. Run by the restaurateur behind renowned restaurants like Issaya and Pizza Massilia, Baan Phadthai boasts of a “secret” 18-ingredient sauce, noodles sourced from the Eastern Thai city of Chanthaburi, house-dried shrimps, duck egg and crab fat. Opt for grilled pork, grilled chicken, grilled river prawn or blue crab meat on top of your pad Thai, or go vegetarian. For dessert, do not be put off by the durian steamed buns—creamy and flavorful.

21-23 Charoen krung Soi 44, 02-060-5553.

Open daily 11am-10pm. www.facebook.com/ baanphadthai. BTS Saphan Taksin

BAAN PHADTHAI

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28 SHOP 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

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NIGHTLIFE MIKYS COCKTAIL BAR NEW

Italian mixologist Michele Montauti, previously of W Bangkok, has unveiled his own cocktail bar on Silom’s leafy Pan Road. A fantastical creature by street artist Mauy and a lengthy backlit bar set the stage for Montauti to whip up signature cocktails like Julie (Broker’s gin, Mancino Bianco, Earl Grey tea, jasmine syrup, lime and egg white) and In Pan Road (Don Julio Reposado tequila, elderflower liqueur, pomegranate juice, rosemary syrup, lime and celery bitters). Small plates include beef fajitas and marinated salmon, with caramelized onion, orange, strawberry and balsamic caviar.

64 Pan Rd., 02-637-8368. BTS Surasak. Open MonSat 5:30pm-1am.

Hot Spots

BEST ALFRESCO DRINKS

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OCTAVE

The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpture-like sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-degree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky house to a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with slight twists. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks.

LE CAFE DES STAGIAIRES

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LE CAFE DES STAGIAIRES

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo

This casual neighborhood bar’s name is French for “The Interns’ Cafe.” It follows three other branches in Shanghai, and sits in a colorful shop-house with an unpretentious atmosphere, where it stays open from breakfast to dinner until you’re ready to dance. Food is casual and fuss-free, with small plates designed to accompany your Moscow mule or caipirinha—think French anchovies and Thai-style chicken satay. They also stock imported Belgian beers and, of course, wine.

142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-207-3077. Open Tue-Fri 7:30-2am; Sat-Sun 9-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

OCTAVE

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RED SKY

Bamboo Bar

The 55th-floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Alfresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch, while chef Hugo Coudurier’s seasonal menus spotlight classic, rich steak dishes. Don’t miss the truffle-infused wagyu beef tenderloin Rossini—a menu staple and proven crowd-pleaser.

The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair.

Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktail-making ground of London’s Artesian bar.

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6-11:30pm. BTS Siam

1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin

RED SKY

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NIGHTLIFE

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BEST BARS FOR THAI DRINKS

LET THE BOY DIE

Let the Boy Die The crumbling walls, hanging plants and warm lighting gives this shop-house bar a charming and homey vibe, perfect for a casual night out for some local brew amid a mix of indie-pop and live three-piece jazz. Here, you’ll find a small selection of Thai-made home-brews on tap such as X Beer Sean Suk IPA, Triple Pearl white pearl alongside the owner’s own brew Golden Coins. The drinking food is pretty hearty, so expect dishes like the Californianinspired Dead Boy beef burger, which comes with blue cheese, mushroom, carrot and cabbage slaw and spicy mayo.

542 Luang Rd., 082-675-9673, 080-599-6177.

Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight.

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This cocktail bar serves more than just expensive drinks by a highly regarded Italian mixologist. It also brought onboard a Michelin-starwinning chef, Vincent Thierry, formerly of Caprice in Hong Kong, to create a menu of incredibly elegant (and equally delicious) small plates. The 1920sinspired bar features a small indoor area dominated by plum leather, bronze and marble, while outside is a beautiful air-conditioned terrace.

SCARLETT WINE BAR

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6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

SCARLETT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT

This elegant wine bistro surrounded by glass on the 47th floor of the Pullman Hotel G offers sweeping views of lower Silom and the river. The food starts at very affordable pasta dishes before you get to the signature offerings created in consultation with Chef Manuel Martinez of the twoMichelin-star Le Relais Louis XII, in Paris. Order a bold cabernet sauvignon, enjoy the view, and spoil yourself with some really well-executed bistro food.

37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-2381991, 089-108-8744. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

VOGUE LOUNGE

Namsaah Bottling Trust One of the partners behind this 100-year-old house painted pink is acclaimed chef Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in a brightly wallpapered setting.

401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

Studio Lam This addition to the super-hip Sukhumvit Soi 51 pairs global beats with quality drinks. Named after DJ Maft Sai’s Zudrangma Records spinoff, the space may look fairly basic, bearing the remnants of an old Japanese restaurant that used to be there, but the star of the show is a specially designed custom tube sound system which pumps out everything from molam to acid jazz. The bar also boasts the most exciting list of ya dong in the city.

Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo

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Tep Bar This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

69-71 Soi Rammitri, Mitrijit Rd. Soi Nana, 098467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

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DINING NEW

FREEBIRD

The hottest ticket in town sits in a Dwell magazine-worthy house at the peaceful end of Sukhumvit Soi 47. The wood-dominated space features a grab-and-go coffee booth up front where you can get a cup of weeklyroasted coffee from Singaporean roasters Sarnies, while the kitchen dishes out Australian-inspired cuisine that’s a producedriven mix of Western and Asian cooking methods and ingredients—think organic sea urchin and sea grapes with whipped parmesan on a house-made flaxseed cracker; and slow-roasted ocean trout with wakame butter, caviar, pennyworth and mussel escabeche.

28 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-662-4936. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong

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BEST THAI TAPAS

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KRAM

Well-made Thai comfort food in a hipster setting: Kram in a nutshell. Set in a greenery-filled house decorated with bean bags and hanging light bulbs, Kram offers classic Thai dishes such as gaeng ua poo bai chaploo (curry with crabmeat and wild betel leaf), woonsen dok kajorn pad kai (stir-fried glass vermicelli with eggs and cowslip creeper) and pla rak gluay pad prik khing (stir-fried horseface loach with ginger-chili paste).

BAA GA DIN

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113 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-258-8170. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10pm

BAA GA DIN

One of a vanguard of restaurants that seek to tweak tried-and-tested street food favorites, Baa Ga Din presents a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. The brainchild of Thitid Tassanakajohn of acclaimed fine-dining eatery Le Du, Baa Ga Din also serves an inventive cocktail menu in a friendly, bistro atmosphere that lures large groups who want the casual experience of Thai street food without the exhaust fumes and teeny stools.

Ginza Sushi Ichi

26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Mon 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm

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SOMTUM DER

This restaurant won a Michelin star for its sister venue of the same name in New York. Those familiar with its well-balanced salads will understand why. The kitchen’s only compromise to Bangkokians’ weaker stomachs is to pasteurize the pla ra (fermented fish sauce). Apart from that, you can expect full, well-rounded heat in the dishes that call for it. Don’t miss the wonderful pork skewers marinated in coconut milk or deepfried minced pork balls, either.

Bangkok’s version of the acclaimed Ginza Sushi Ichi in Tokyo arrived in town promising an unmatched dedication to freshness. Each day the restaurant flies ingredients in from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, even closing when Japanese holidays will delay the next shipment of fresh goods.

Sushi lovers, grab a seat and get your Instagram ready for fresh-from-market omakase prepared right in front of you.

LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-2500014. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 6-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

KRAM

5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am2:30pm, 4:30-10pm. MRT Silom SOMTUMDER

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DINING

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BEST FINE DINING

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Thought of as a “Thai-style izakaya” by owner Jarrett Wrisley, this perennially popular Thai hotspot does Thai street food with thoughtful, arty flourishes: think housemade watermelon rind pickles with the Hat Yai-style fried chicken, or a smoky bacon garnish on the grilled eggplant salad. Specials, written up on a chalkboard on the ground floor, change on a regular basis and the cocktails are potent and tasty.

BO.LAN

Bo.lan Featuring fine Thai cuisine made using traditional methods and the best ingredients, Bo.lan—an amalgam of chef-couple Bo and Dylan Jones’s names—has made a splash in the global dining world with its aromatic curries, beautifully plated salads and artfully conceived menu. Adding to the allure is a striking dining room, set in an old house replete with tropical garden and close to hipster thoroughfare Soi Thonglor. Try the “Bo. lan balance,” a menu which changes along with the seasons.

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat 6-10:30pm; Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun midnight-2:30pm.

Thai. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-7147708. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight.

B H BBB

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

No trendy tweaks, here. This resolutely authentic kitchen follows the recipes of the owner’s grandmother, who was born in Trat (on the Eastern Seabord) before moving to Khon Kaen (in Isaan). The result is a mix of flavor-packed regional dishes like the must-order moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and the nam prik kai poo (chili dip with crab eggs). Other branch: Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508.

Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm.

Gaggan Chef Gaggan Anand’s name went around the world when his eponymous restaurant was named Asia’s 50 Best’s No. 1 restaurant in 2015, a feat a followed up this year.

Each night, in a classically restored house on Langsuan Road, the chef’s team offers a tasting menu where diners’ expectations of Indian food are first thrown overboard and then blown out of the water by Gaggan’s El Bulli-influenced creativity.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. BTS Ratchadamri.

Open Mon-Sat 6pm-11am.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon This genius concept from Joel Robuchon, the most lauded French chef in the world, takes the chain restaurant to its most elegant extreme, giving diners the feel of an upscale sushi bar while serving up impeccably-executed versions of French favorites. The Bangkok branch offers a red and black-accented dining space that allows guests the chance to see their food being made, and the menu is studded by L’Atelier standbys like free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato puree.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Le Normandie Possibly the most well-known fine dining restaurant in Bangkok underwent a minor revamp at the beginning of this year to ensure that it continues to set the standard for service and cuisine among eateries with Michelin-star pretensions in Thailand. Chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier currently, who enjoys a formidable resume after stints with culinary giants Georges Blanc, Marc Veyrat and Emile Jung, helms the classically French menu.

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000 #7390. Open Mon-Sat 7-10pm, noon-2pm.

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SHOPS+SERVICES EDITIONS If you’re in the Old Town and want to pick up some local literature, go check out this new independent book store in Tha Maharaj—a riverside promenade filled with restaurants and shops not far from the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. Inside you’ll find an eclectic range of titles geared towards Asian art and culture, spanning coffee table books on cycling and cafe culture to more in-depth reads on Thai history and international art titles. You can also pick up the odd artisanal souvenir from Thai ceramics brand Chiratornm as well as organic spa products from Divana and elegant postcards for friends back home.

Tha Maharaj, Trok Mahathat Maharaj Rd., 092248-1566. Open daily 10am-9pm

Hot Spots

BEST HIPSTER STORES

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ROSEMAN CLUB

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ROSEMAN CLUB

A local indie star runs this multi-label men’s fashion store and hub of all things cool. The pocket-sized white boutique is dedicated to clothing and accessories from cult imported brands like Saturdays Surf NYC, Beton x Cire and Stanley & Sons. There’s also the odd piece of vintage-wear, including lots of never-before-worn deadstock from New York. You can get a great cup of coffee in-store too, thanks to a partnership with local coffee roaster Brave.

19/12 Ekkamai Soi 12, 086-388-3303. Open daily 8am8pm

You really can’t go wrong with any of the styles at Bangkok cool kids’ favorite eyewear brand. The designs may be Thai, but the workmanship and quality is very much Japanese—where Roseman has all its frames made out of top-notch acetate. That also makes prices which skirt below B5,000 well worth the cash. Check out the Jarvis Mahogany for some nerdy tortoiseshell style, or the Darwin Cloud with clip-on sun lenses for a vintage traveler look. In store you’ll also find a smattering of fashion accessories from other local labels.

68/2 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open daily 11am-9pm

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183 CRAFTED STORE

Crafty ceramics and comfortable indigo cotton-wear are the go-to pieces at this hip store in the riverside shopping complex. It’s the result of a collaboration between two local brands—Cone Number 9 (ceramics) and Kasa’ Maya (indigo-wear)—that brings a collection of dreamy designs in charmingly imperfect patterns. Expect to find trendy clothing and bags at affordable prices, while the ceramics range of coffee cups and vases is just as wallet-friendly.

1/F, River City Shopping Complex, 24 Charoenkrung Rd. Open daily 10am-8pm

ONION

5

ANOTHER STORY

This concept store gathers designer products from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) as well as cute home decor pieces (look out for Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag). The huge space also has a deli with some to-die-for food.

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Bldg., Sukhumvit Rd., 02003-6138/9. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

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O.D.S

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OBJECT OF DESIGN STORE (O.D.S)

You’d have to look long and hard to find better contemporary Thai design than the beautiful pieces at this studio. Straying from the other imported big brand names at this shopping mall, O.D.S focuses on affordable home decor pieces, jewelry and other accessories from breakthrough Thai names including the Demark Award-winning labels Trimode and Plural Designs, ceramics from Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio, and pop art-inspired furniture from 56th Studio and Cast.

3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS National Stadium

RIVER CITY The third and fourth floors of this riverside mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and Southeast Asian art, antiques and artifacts. Once you’re done shopping, you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and reataurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace.

23 Trok Rongnamkeang, Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077-78.

Open daily 10am-10pm

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HARNN HERITAGE SPA KRUNGTHEP NEW

A soothing world of minty hues, contemporary Thai furnishings and lengthy spa treatments awaits visitors to this new pampering palace. Unlike your usual dimly lit, secluded spa, this one has huge windows that brighten up the whole space as you wait to be let in for delicious treatments like the Ploenchit Therapy—a 60-minute journey of foot scrubs and back rubs using massage oils that smell so, so good. The masseurs here don’t just have soothing hands; they also know how to avoid small talk, helping you to relax whatever your state of undress.

12M/F, Zen Tower, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02252-5725. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Chit Lom

Hot Spots BEST SALONS

AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK

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AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK

Split into four zones, this spa’s use of soft LED lights gives it a meditative, relaxing mood with walls and treatment beds glowing softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink. Treatments range from the signature Away Massage Metamorphosis using essential oils to nurture stress points all the way to detox treatments like a four-hands mineral scrub. The Style Lab Beauty Salon also offers grooming, manicure and pedicure services. Other facitilities include a sauna, steam room, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi and VIP suite.

6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4160. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

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DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

This is truly one of the best spas in Bangkok for an over-the-top spa session that goes well beyond a massage. Their signature treatments include The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience, a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that combines Thai, Ayurveda and Shiatsu techniques; The Harmony of Tad Si, a treatment using Thai herbal compresses and aromatic oils to relax muscles and pressure points; and the Kenya Sensory Journey, a skin-rejuvenating body scrub, wrap and oil massage with native herbs and plants.

Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596.

Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom

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I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB

When celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi created this club-style hotel spa, he made it one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats. The indooroutdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. Treatments include full day ‘Retreats’, half-day ‘Escapes’, and a huge variety of facial, full-body and massage options.

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 9am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

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OKURA SPA

Tucked away on the 25th floor of the luxury Japanese hotel, this contemporary oriental space features five private treatment rooms hidden along a dimly-lit walkway. The highlight is the Okura Take Relief bamboo massage, during which therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles to release stress before a soak in a big bathtub.

25/F, The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-6879000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

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THE ORIENTAL SPA

As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak house including five specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy signature massage of essential oils; or the Oriental Organic Journey, a 2.5-hour full-body detoxifying scrub and steam; the Herbal Wrap, an hourlong wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin. Full day and half day spa packages are also available.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open daily 9am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

Rajadamnern Singha Muay Thai Academy (RSM) Making muay Thai (Thai kickboxing) trendy, this academy offers a wide range of courses designed for different age ranges, abilities and levels of dedication. The gym may look fancy, but the training is deadly serious, carried out by lead Muay Thai coaches from Rajadamnern Stadium. Along with regular classes, they also cater for private groups and wannabe pros.

OKURA SPA

3/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2384.

Open daily 9am-9pm

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ATTRACTIONS BOUNCE THAILAND NEW

At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with 80 interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Mini Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play.

5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-014-2446. Open daily 10am-10pm.

MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

Hot Spots EXCITING SHOWS

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SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK

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SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK

MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES

This fast-paced live Thai boxing show was created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers. Tickets are B1,200-1,500.

Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 4, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Open Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm

This grand visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions— the North, the South, the Central Plains and the Northeast—to present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Expect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village, as well as a variety of pre-performance cultural activities. Showtime 8pm, doors open 5:30pm.

Tickets are B1,500-2,350 from www.siamniramit.com.

19 Thiem-Ruammit Rd., 02 649 9222.

Open daily 5-10pm

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BAAN SILAPIN

Also known as “The Artist’s House,” this century-old wooden house sits on the banks of Bang Luang Canal, the former home of a merchant family, and has been transformed into a public space celebrating traditional Thai culture.

This hidden gem is a great place to experience the slow life of old Bangkok, whether that’s simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show (daily except Wednesday, arrive before 2pm).

315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Phasi Charoen-BangKaa Soi 28 (Phet Kasem), 02-868-5297. Open daily 10am-6pm

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CALYPSO

The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to kinnaree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary burlesque act. It’s all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution. Tickets are B1,200 for the show only or B2,000 including dinner. Reservations at www.calypsocabaret.com.

Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 3, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-1415. Open daily 8:15-9:45pm

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RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

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RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

At Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, foreigners get seated ringside while the outer seats are occupied by hardgambling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting. It’s also the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week. For ticket reservations, visit rajadamnern.com.

1 Ratchadamnoen Ave, Pom Prap Sattru Pai, 02-2814205. Open Sun-Mon 6:30-11pm; Wed-Thu 3-11pm

Museum Siam Set in a colonial-inspired building with a state-ofthe-art light and sound system, this innovative, technology-driven museum showcasing the history of Siam is a far cry from dimly-lit corridors and dusty exhibits. You won’t find original artworks, antiques or artifacts on display here but rather an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels that breathe life into Thailand’s heritage. Their permanent exhibition, The Riang Kwan Pratade Thai (Essays from Thailand), is an interactive journey through 3,000 years of Thailand’s history spread over 17 rooms.

Phra Nang Klao Rd., 02-225-2777

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

Kamphaeng Phet ¡ÓᾧྪÃ

Bang Sue ºÒ§«×่Í

Ratchadapisek ÃѪ´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Mo Chit ËÁͪԵ

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Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai Êоҹ¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Centre Èٹ ÇѲ¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao ʹÒÁ໇Ò

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Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

3

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×;ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument ͹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

4

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

5

!7

7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

!5!6

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

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Siam ÊÂÒÁ

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Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Asok ÍâÈ¡

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!2

Phetchaburi ྪúØÃÕ

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤Óá˧

Phetchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

National Stadium ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒ áË‹§ªÒµÔ

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊѹ

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒö

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

6 Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇѧËÅѧ

Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Queen Sirikit National Conv.

Centre Èٹ »ÃЪØÁ áË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐ⢹§

Yaowarat Rd.

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!1

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕ¹

Ratcha wong ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÃҪǧ¤

Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓ⾧

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

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1 Asiatique the Riverfont

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 NOVEMBER 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

2

4

!5

!1 1 Drinking in the cityscape view from Octave alfresco bar on top of the Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit Hotel.

See page 24.

7 Indulging in the 2.5-hour Heavenly Nantha Experience, which includes a bath, body scrub and therapeutic massage at Dusit Thani Hotel’s Devarana Spa. See page 29.

!0

!9 !2 Admiring the view at Red Sky, a !7 Sipping super-strong cocktails rooftop bar located on the 55th floor of the Centara Grand. See page 24.

!3 Making an appointment to visit

with a bowl of rich Northern curry at Soul Food Mahanakorn, before tucking into their delicious durian-flavored ice cream. See page 25.

2 Browsing for elegant, modern Thai

Yenakart Villa, a grand multi-purpose

design at Another Story, a multilabel concept store inside the luxury EmQuartier mall. See page 28.

8 Partying by the river at the indus- art space in the Sathorn area. See !8 Hanging out with the city’s coolest trial, pirate-chic Viva & Aviv bar and restaurant. See page 7.

page 31.

!4 Heading to the riverside to dine on 3 Checking out the latest exhibition 9 Drinking a Mahanakhon Julep on homey Thai dishes at the charming, at Soy Sauce Factory, an art space set in an actual old Chinatown soy sauce factory that welcomes the region’s best photographers. See page 8.

the terrace of Vogue Lounge, and enjoying the outdoor air-con at this ritzy rooftop bar. See page 24.

plant-filled warehouse-turned-restaurant The Never Ending Summer. See page 6.

locals and expats at Smalls, a laidback cocktail lounge set in a corner shop-house. See page 24.

!9 Feasting on the delicious pork buns of Little Bao, one of the hottest restaurants in nightlife central Thonglor.

See page 25.

!0 Catching a long-tail boat upriver to !5 Exploring the streets of China4 Sitting ringside and blending with Baan Silapin, the century-old wooden town, where Thailand’s immigrant @0 Visiting our favorite Isaan-style the locals while watching a muay Thai fight at Rajadamnern Stadium. See page 30.

house where Thai puppet shows are performed daily. See page 30.

heritage collides with cool new bars and art spaces. See page 20.

street food specialist, Somtum Der, whose second branch in New York holds a Michelin star. See page 25.

!1 Checking into one of the spa cot- !6 Treating ourselves to a five-hour 5 Admiring the work of established tages for a full day of pampering and long pampering treatment at W Bang- @1 Catching the live music at and emerging contemporary Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. See page 31.

treatments at the beautifully appointed I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok.

See page 29.

kok’s Away Spa, including full body scrub, wrap, massage, facial and feet and hand treatments. See page 29.

Mandarin Oriental’s Bamboo Bar, one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. See page 24.

6 Watching the sun set over Wat Arun while sampling the delicious Thai food at the riverside hotel Sala Rattanakosin. See page 6.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I NO VEMB ER 2 0 1 6

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok Amara Bangkok AETAS Bangkok All season Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Amari Watergate Hotel Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Hotel Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Hotel Bangkok Centara Hotel & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Hotel Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Hotel Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel Bangkok Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Emporium Suites Bangkok Four Points by Sheraton Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel & Spa (former Four Seasons) Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Holiday Inn Silom Hotel Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel InterContinental Bangkok Hotel JW Marriott Bangkok Klapsons the River Residences Le Fenix Sukhumvit Lebua Hotel Bangkok Luxx Hotel Majestic Grande hotel Mandarin Oriental Hotel Mandarin Hotel Managed by Centre Point Mercure & ibis Bangkok Siam

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_November_2016.indd 35

where Thailand

Marriott Sukhumvit 57

The Sukhothai Bangkok Hotel

Millennium Hilton Hotel

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Hotel

Miracle Grand Convention Hotel

VIE Hotel

Montien Riverside Hotel

ViVa Garden

Novotel Bangkok Hotel

W Bangkok Hotel

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit

Hotels in other province

Novotel Bangkok Impact

Serviced Apartment Adelphi Forty-Nine Courtyard Marriott

Shopping Mall Central World

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn Thailand

Tamarind Village at Chiang Mai

Peninsular Plaza

Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

The Emporium Department Store

Pathumwan Princess Hotel

Sheraton Krabi

The River City Shopping Complex

Peninsula Bangkok Hotel

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya Hotel

Phachara suites

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Others

Plaza Athenee Bangkok A Royal Meridien

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

Devarana Spa

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Chandara Resort

Elemis Spa at St. Regis

Pullman Bangkok Hotel G

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Bangkok Baking Co. (JW Marriott)

Radisson suites bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa Resort & Spa Blue Elephant Restaurant Mandarin Oriental At Paragon Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Bangkok

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa

Pizza Romana Pala

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel

Intercontinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort

La Grande Perle

Riva Surya Hotel

Le Meridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Kuppadeli

Royal Orchid Sheraton hotel towers

Santiburi Resort

Dean & DeLuca (Thailand) Co., Ltd

Samed Resorts

Conrad Koh Samui

Kalpapruek (Soi Pramuan)

Shangri-La Hotel

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

VIVA & AVIV

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel

Centara Grand Beach Resort Villas Hua Hin

the kiwi bangkok sports pub & grill

Siam @ siam design hotel & spa

Lets Sea Hua Hin Al Fresco Resort�

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Siam Kempinski Hotel

Villa Maroc Resort

German Embassy( Press and Cultural

Sivatel Bangkok

Anantara Resort Hua Hin

Section)

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort

TAT at Counter Imformation

Sofitel So

Hard Rock Hotel

Chao Phraya Express Boat

Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa

Holiday Inn Pattaya

Bangkok Art and culture Centre

St Regis

Siripanna Villa Resort & Spa Chiang Mai

Yodpiman River Walk

Swissotel Le Concorde Hotel

Centara Duangtawan Hotel Chiang Mai

Swissotel Nai Lert Park Hotel

Centara Khum Phaya Resort & Spa, Centara

The Berkeley Hotel

Boutique Collection

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

The Davis Bangkok Hotel

Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa

The Landmark Bangkok

Ayara Hilltops Boutique Resort & Spa

The Lit Bangkok

Angsana Laguna Phuket

Y

Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact advertising@ asia-city.co.th or call 02-6249638.

The Metropolitan Hotel The Okura Prestige Bangkok The Siam Hotel

10/20/16 3:00 PM

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