Page 1

SEPTEMBER 2016 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

www.where-venice.com

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL OUT OF TOWN: NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS NEW EXCLUSIVE VENICE MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS

®


P U R E ART The Museum of Modern Art, NEW YORK The Corning Museum of Glass, NEW YORK Victoria and Albert Museum, LONDON Die Neue Sammlung, Staatliches Museum für angewandte Kunst, MÜNCHEN Kunstgewerbe Museum, KÖLN Kestner Museum, HANNOVER Kunstmuseum Düsseldorf, DÜSSELDORF Stedelijk Museum, AMSTERDAM Suomen Lasimuseo, HELSINKI SHMOG Shanghai Museum of Glass, SHANGHAI Foundation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, PARIS Musée des Art Dècoratifs, PARIS Museo Vetraio, MURANO La Triennale di Milano, MILANO

Fondazione Giorgio Cini - LE STANZE DEL VETRO - Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore - Venezia “PAOLO VENINI E LA SUA FORNACE” a cura di Marino Barovier

Spazio Venini - Fondamenta Vetrai, 47-50 - 30141 Murano, Venezia - Italia - tel. + 39 041 2737254 Spazio Venini - S. Marco, Piazzetta Leoncini, 314 - 30124 Venezia - Italia - tel. + 39 041 5224045 www.venini.com


Venice September 2016 6

the guide

HOT DATES

22 SHOPPING

BAGARON

All the style of Giorgio Armani shine in his new boutique

C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

42

42 DINING

DINING

Harry's Bar is a cultural institution and mustvisit destination for VIP watching 52 ENTERTAINMENT

Soak up the authentic Venetian atmosphere of a classic "Bacaro tour"

Parco San Giuliano

18 THE LIDO

OF VENICE | ITINERARY An island, a town and also a jet setter’s paradise.

E

A

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CAL LE

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CALLE LEONARD O

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C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO CALLE DE LE RASSE

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Palazzo Genovese CALLE DEL BASTION

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TER

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CALLE

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San

RIDOTTO

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TREDIC

Rio

CALLE

MENTA

CA

Palazzo Ducale

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VALLAR

CALLE

FONDA

MARCO

CANONI DE LA

O

Museo Correr

CALLE

OTTI

SAN

CALLE

RC

SIONE

DEL TRAGHETTO

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

MA

ASCEN

CALLE

DEI CORTELL

LARGA

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

SAN

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CALLE

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Basilica di San Marco

O

CALLE

MOIS

SA

ZZA

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

DEL

CALLE

I BALON

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o

O

PIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

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QUERIN

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RIO TERÀ CAZZA

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IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA

LLE CA

I

IN

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GA

MA

AI

RO

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San Giovanni Novo CALLE DEL FIGHER

ETT

C. DEL

NA

XXII MARZO

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

O PELL CAP

E BIAN CALL

LE CAL

CORTE NUOVA

LE CAL

Palazz

DI

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

EOL

ALL CAV

ORS

E

C.DEI

CA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

EDIO REM

CORTE TORRETTA

CARRO

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazz Griman

BANDE

Rio Del

DEL

A ENT

LL

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

DE LE

CORTE

GIO ROLO DELL’O

À

CALLE

DEL FORNO

I HIER SPEC

E C.

TER

LE CAL

IA DAR SPA

AZZ

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CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CA TAS

San Giuliano

ZUL IAN

RIO

C.

CA

SAN

ARIA MARZ

STR

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

DAM

ze ra

CALL

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al

an

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TIM

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MA

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le

CALLE

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CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

LI

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

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CORTE

BALO TE

LE CAL

LA

MINELL

na

CASTEL

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO CALICE

A DEL CAP ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

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LA CHIESA

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CALLE

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FRUTAR

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CALLE

Ca

CORTE NOVA

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CALLE

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NT A SA TA

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COCCO

DI

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AM

LLE BE

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a

AC

ND

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CALLE

CALLE

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ONA

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San Salvador MAR

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im

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DA

C. DEL

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CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

VER CALLE

CALLE

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Casa di Marco Polo

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lva

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CALLE

CALLE

MICHIEL

FO GA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

S.Canciano

DE

CAMPO SAN LIO

Sa

ritt

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CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

n

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RIO

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LE

O

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LARGA

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Santa Maria del Giglio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

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BO BEM

DEL

taz io

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

SAL

LE CAL

E CALL

oS

SI

QUE

A LUC LE CAL

San Fantin RTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

DEL

CALLE

SSIN

LARG A

RO TEAT LE CAL

DEL

OLA

CAOTO

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

RAMO

RIOL

O SALI ZZA DA

LA

E AI GESUA TI

TEATRO

ASSA

A

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FRUTA

LE

ORE

CIN

A

DE

ZATTER

CAL LE

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

MAND

CHIES

SALIZADA

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DEI

SAN

R

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

I

R

CAL

BARBA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CORTE

TERÀ

ETIE

DELLA

UZZI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

C. DEL

A

LE

E

RIO

DEL

CALLE

CAPP

CAN

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

CALLE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

E VENIE

Santi Apostoli

SAN SALVADOR

San Luca

E CALL

C.

DOL

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

TOS

LLI CAVA

Santa Maria del Rosario

LE

DE

E CALL

TEA TR O

NER COR

NANI

Fontego Dolfin Manin

E CALL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DE

LE

N

LINI

GO

CALL

SARTORI

Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

E

ZEN

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

San Giacomo di Rialto

RIO

TI OCA

ENTA

GNES

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

ENTA

CALL

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CAL

STU

DE L

MAN

DAM

NT'A

VE

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Canal Grande

C.SA

DAM

San Giovanni Grisostomo

Rialto

Palazzo Rava

CALL

LE

CAF

Santo Stefano

Ponte dell'Accademia

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

NO

RINA

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DEL

Palazzo Grimani

CAL

CAMPO PISANI

CATE

Chiesa Evangelica Luterana

ON

LE

de ran

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

VA

ANG

RAVA

CORTE

San Trovaso

NO

CAL

DEL

CALLE

IER

I

ULI

Santa Sofia

DA

CAL

NO ETA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

SI

Palazzo Loredan

San Vidal

RA

San Silvestro

À

San Samuele

. NARI

PRI

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOT EGH E

ENT A

DEI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

AVV

cin

TE

REA

DEL

TER

LE

TA

FOND.

DAM

PAR

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

AMP ANE

LE

LE

FOND

DE

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FON

A

CAR

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CRO SER A

FOND

RUG

LE

RIO

Ba

EN

ETTI MOR

CAL

MIN

LL CA RO

TO

ET

CH

ON

TR

L

DE

VA

LA

ISO

AM

FON

GO RTE OPO SOT

MUT I

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

E UEL SAM

MENTA

PON

CAMPIELLO

CA’

CAL

DEI LAVRANE

DE

BOT A

C.

E DE CALL

S.

FAL

Zattere

FISOLA

LARGA

ND

ENTA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

ANI GRIM

DA IZA SAL OZZE CARR

LE

MENTA

CALLE

FO

CALLE

SAN

Ca na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd e

E CALL

CA’

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDA

CHIESA

ST

ZI

CAL LE

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Palazzo Grassi

DAM

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STU A

Ca’ D’Oro

San Beneto

SESTIERE

Palazzo Mocenigo

RAMO

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

DELLA

DE

al G

CAL

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

LA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

S. Samuele

Giudecca Hilton

CALLE

LA

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Balbi

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

DEL

GALIZ

LON

IN

S.Silvestro

Can

San Tomà

CHI TODES

TE

OL

FON

CAL

CARAMPANE À

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

PON

TER

LE CAL

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE BERNARDO

FON

E AL

AP

N

RUGH

C. DEI

SANT

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

LE SAMUE

OGNI

MI

CAMPO APONAL

A

San Barnaba

RA

DEI

O

CAL LE

CAL LE

RIN PEST

. DE

TER

INI

Abazia della Misericordia

IA

C.

L’ASE

ND

Sant’Aponal

SERA

E DE

D

A

SER

RIO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

FOND

ZAT

NT AR

ZEL

CRO

R

TR

DON

LE

L’AG NEL LA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

O

TA

DON SAN PER

Sant’Agnese

SACCA

LET

IC

EN

LA

I

CAL

DE

Accademia

DE OGNISAN

NTA

SCA

A S. PISCIN

AME

DEL

E CRO

FOD

CO

rto

DE

PRET

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

TI

S. Basilio

100 m

E DEI

' VE

E DEL CALL

CALL

FOMO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

ENTA

C.

O

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

FONDAM

TA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

DEI PUTI

IAN

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

ZI

FORNO

N

ER

AM

DEL

TALO

DEI TIOZ

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

AST IO

LE

E ZANE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

SEB BESAG

C.

IS

ND

DE

CAL

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

DE INC INI

CALL

SCOAZZERA DE LA E

SAN DA SAN

EN

a de

ERA

PAN

TA

M

FO

Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna

Santa Maria Mater Domini

ER

TTO

E RENIE

DEL

AM

nn

San Felice

CALLE

A SAN

TA

CAL LE

CAMPO SAN STIN

ORE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

A ENT

DORSODURO

LE PAZIENZ

DAM SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

DO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

EN

CA

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

TOMÀ

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

CALLE SAN BASILIO

LE

R

FON

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

I

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

SAN

AM

E DOL

IZAD

CALL

Santa Maria dei Carmini

OR

HETT

i

min

Car

NT

TRAG

del

TE

E DEL

I

Rio

TERÀ

EN

Santa Fosca

SAN

CALL

IAT

L

Palazzo Grioni C.

CAL

OCHE

nde Canal Gra

BR

DE

O

TTO

TA

C.

MEZ

GHE

EN

E

DE

TRA

NI

AM

LE

CALL

RIO

ete

CAMPO DEI CARMINI C. DE

DIA

ND

E TRON

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

E

A

gh

RIO TERA’

AR

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

LE

DEL

GU

DON

LAC

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

Angelo Raffaele LAR

LA

CAL

ne

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

CA

O

LE

LA TT

San Rocco

Mu

SSA

FO

CAL

C.VE

LA

FON

N

San Pantalon

RO

RIELO

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

le

O

I

SAN

LORENZ

OLO

C. SAN

CALLE CASE NUOVE

LE

DE

E

ND

CALL

SAL

ND

do

ll'O

AM

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

NA

San Stae

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CALLE

NTA

RE

NIC CAL

FO

Ma

C.

de

NUOVO

USE

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

DE

LA

IA ESI

tini

CALLE CONTARINA

ME

TA DE

TA

LE

DE

CIM

O

BASEG

RIO

CAL

CALLE DE LA LACA

C.

DAR O

N

CALL

CALLE

MENTA

DE LA VIDA

D

S.Stae

San Giacomo dall'Orio

OCH

ZO

RAM

CIM

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

NA

N

MADONA

OTT

en

CALLE CAZZA

ALE

La Maddalena

CALL

L’ISOLA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA BELA

E C A

FO

DD

DE LA

gaz

DE

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

MA

SA

LE

I

DA

AMEN

AMEN

MATTA DI CA’

TA

TI

LA

RAMO

Ma

RAG

FOND

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

OT

EN

À D E

CAL

E

RZ

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CERER

DE L’OGIO

GA

AM

CALLE DELL'OLIO

DEI

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

TA

ND

TERA’

I

TOR

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

BAR

TA

TIN

MADON

LA

NA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

I

ENT A MIN

a

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

TER

Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Zan Degola

Palazzo Gidoni

LE

CH

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE CAL

RAM

LE

DE

CA

E

EN

Rio

R

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

CAL

AS

Del

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

A

Rio DAM

icordi

LE CAL

NE

LUN

Miser

S.Marcuola

I

EO

LA

CAL

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The Grand Canal.

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This month’s round-up of shows, art exhibitions, traditional events and music.

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A tour of the Ghetto, discovering an unexpected Venice

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M A G A Z I N E

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

PHOTO © DANIMISRA

Top in town

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures.

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sights is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

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be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit.  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet.  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was


MORE AT PAGE 56 called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures.  PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto.  Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale

Ponte dei Sospiri

EDITOR'S TIPS

THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio and is celebrating its 500th anniversary. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’.

PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps.

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

SEPTEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating art, history and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

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FROM SUNDAY

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VENINI AND THE MAGIC OF GLASS

As a part of the cultural project “Le Stanze del Vetro" (an initiative organized by Fondazione Giorgio Cini and Pentagram Stiftung), the ‘Paolo Venini e la sua fornace’ (‘Paolo Venini and his furnace’) exhibition opens today: a collection of 300 works that explore the creative force of this enlightened enterpreneur (Milanese by birth and an inhabitant of Murano by choice) as well as other artists who collaborated with him after the Second World War, including Tyra Lundgren, Gio Ponti, Riccardo Licata, Ken Scott, Massimo Vignelli and Tobia Scarpa. A stunning showcase of Italian masterpieces of design and craftsmanship presented in a unique exhibition space: the former boarding school on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. Le Stanze del Vetro. Paolo Venini e la sua fornace Fondazione Giorgio Cini, island of San Giorgio Maggiore www.lestanzedelvetro.org - www.cini.it

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES UNTIL SATURDAY-SUNDAY

10-11

JESOLO, GREAT SAND ART

► Last weekend to visit the “Sculture di sabbia” (“Sand Sculptures”) exhibition in Jesolo, the famous beach town on Venice’s East Coast. The theme of this competition among professional sand artists from all over the world will be European capitals. Located just steps from the sea, Piazza Brescia will act as a backdrop to this unique public event. To reach Jesolo from Venice take ACTV lines 14 or 15 as far as Punta Sabbioni, then switch to the ACTV line for Jesolo.

Sculture di Sabbia: European Capital Cities Lido di Jesolo, Piazza Brescia (45 minutes from Venice) www.sultansofsand.com

FROM SATURDAY

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MARIA CALLAS ON SHOW AT LA FENICE

◄ Audiences will be treated to seven years of ‘La Divina’s’ Venetian performances, based on archive materials and photographs featuring several of the high points of the life of the young soprano, whose intensely dramatic portrayals made her the most exciting opera singer of her time. The exhibition is part of the series of the theatre’s guided tours.

Maria Callas alla Fenice Teatro La Fenice, third row stages events.veneziaunica.it

SATURDAY

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COLOURS OF THE SKY

► The most colourful parties in Venice in a unique location with an amazing view: the Skyline Rooftop Bar at the Hilton Molino Stucky. The “Golden Hollywood” party starts with live music from 9.30pm and continues with a DJ Set from 10.30pm. The theme of the parties are “colours” so for every event a dress code is suggested. The entrance fee is € 30 per person with one cocktail included. Other events this month will be “Animal Instinct” (Wednesday 7) and “Silver Moon” (Saturday 24) which will be the last appointment for summer 2016. Hilton Molino Stucky Venice Giudecca 810. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Booking required (vcehi_fb@hilton.com or T: 041 2723315).

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SEPTEMBER LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE

TUESDAY

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AN ICON AMONG ICONS

◄ Instead of visiting the Peggy Guggenheim Collection which is closed on Tuesdays, head to the Jewish Ghetto which is currently hosting a photographic exhibition about the life of Peggy Guggenheim. A selection of approximately 20 images, mainly from the archives of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, will render homage to the woman, heiress, great patroness and a key figure in 20th century western art. Photographs on exhibition include works by Man Ray, Berenice Abbott, Gianni Berengo Gardin, and Gisèle Freund. Until 27 November.

Peggy Guggenheim in Photographs Ikona Venezia, Cannaregio 2909 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo) www.guggenheim-venice.it www.ikonavenezia.com

SATURDAY

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THE EXPERIMENTAL POWER OF ART

► Today, like every Saturday at 3pm, Palazzo Grassi is offering free guided tours of the first retrospective in Italy dedicated to ‘Sigmark Polke’. Marking the 10th anniversary of the re-opening of Palazzo Grassi, this exhibition celebrates the artist who won a Golden Lion at the 42nd Venice Biennale (German Pavilion). The 90 works on display explore Polke’s eclectic production from the 1960s to the present time, a mixture of experimentation and political anxiety. "Axial Age", the artist’s last important pictorial cycle, created between 2005 and 2007 and installed in the atrium of Palazzo Grassi, is particularly noteworthy. Booking not required.

Sigmar Polke. Palazzo Grassi San Marco, 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Until 6 November. www.palazzograssi.it www.palazzograssi.it

www.teatrolafenice.it

■ OPERA 7, 16, 24, 28 September DONIZETTI, L’ELISIR D’AMORE Stefano Montanari, conductor Bepi Morassi, director La Fenice Opera House production. Italian and English surtitles

4, 14, 18 September BELLINI, NORMA Daniele Callegari, conductor Kara Walker, director, sets & costumes La Fenice Opera House production. Special Project of the 56th Venice International Art Exhibition. Italian and English surtitles.

6, 8, 11, 13, 15, 17, 23, 25, 29 September VERDI, LA TRAVIATA Nello Santi and Francesco Ivan Ciampa, conductors Robert Carsen, director La Fenice Opera House production. Italian and English surtitles

22, 27, 30 September ROSSINI, IL SIGNOR BRUSCHINO Alvise Casellati, conductor Bepi Morassi, director La Fenice Opera House production . «Atelier della Fenice al Teatro Malibran» project. Italian and English surtitles

■ OTHER EVENTS 12 September LA FENICE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Eivind Gullberg Jensen, conductor Music by: Richard Wagner, Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy, Pëtr Ilič Čajkovskij w w w.wh e re -ve ni ce. com  9


WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE JANUARY/FEBRUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House. Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.

APRIL Festa di San Marco / Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day.

MAY Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga > A 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public.

JUNE/JULY Biennale of Art > An international exhibition of Contemporary Art (next edition: 2017) Biennale of Dance > (17-27 June 2016) An international dance festival Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello.

JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (third Sunday of the month) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre 2016 (26 July-28 August 2016)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (31 August-10 September 2016) Now in its 73rd consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice. Biennale of Architecture (28 May-27 November 2016) An International exhibition of Architecture, held at the Giardini della Biennale and Arsenale venues.

SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta > first Sunday in September One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft.

NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day.

DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica 10  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

SUNDAY

RELIVING HISTORY ON THE CANAL

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► One of the most traditional Venetian events, held for the first time on 10 January 1315 to welcome Queen Caterina Cornaro of Cyprus to Venice, is back again. The ‘Regata Storica di Venezia’ takes place in two stages: a parade of boats decorated in 16th-century style and the actual regattas that mark the end of the annual ‘Voga alla Veneta’ rowing events. The races start from the Riva degli Schiavoni and proceed to Punta della Salute, where the crowds anxiously wait to see which boat will enter the Grand Canal first. The oarsmen then head towards the Santa Lucia Railway Station, where the boats turn around a ‘paleto’ (pylon) to row back to the finishing line at Ca’ Foscari. www.regastorica.it

FRIDAY

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A TIMELESS CLASSIC

► If you need some invigorating laughter to ward off the autumnal blues this evening, then head to Venice’s lovely Teatro Goldoni for some light Italian comedy. Arlecchino, Italy’s most famous masked character, meets Carlo Goldoni in Il servitore di due padroni (Servant of two masters), the dramatist’s most widely staged play, re-adapted in a new version. At the end of each performance, guests will be offered an ‘aperitivo’ in the theatre’s courtyard. Subtitles in French and English. Until 9 October.

Arlecchino Servant of two masters Teatro Goldoni. San Marco, 4650/ B (Calle del Teatro) www.teatrostabileveneto.it


WHERE NOW | FOCUS

The Biennale of Venice 2016 One of the oldest and most prestigious art exhibitions in the world. Not only a series of exhibitions and events and not just a sequence of festivals and workshops, but a privileged showcase, lasting for six months, featuring theatre, dance, cinema, music and architecture. B Y S I M O N A P. K . D A V I D D I

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nderstanding what the Biennale of Venice really entails can prove rather daunting. However, experiencing its atmosphere and artistic offerings is an unforgettable experience. It was founded in 1895, as the Biennale Exposition of Art, to promote new artistic trends on a world level. However, over time, the Biennale was enriched with festivals and exhibitions dedicated to individual arts. The establishment of the International Music Festival dates back to 1930; the International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art, the oldest cinematographic festival in the world, was instituted in 1932; the International Theatre Festival was founded in 1934; the International Architecture Exhibition was created in 1980, while 1999 saw the establishment of the Festival of Contemporary Dance. Thanks to the quality of work exhibited, the Architecture Exhibition was such a success that it almost ‘stole’ the show from the Art Festival. As a result, its organizers decided to hold these exhibitions on alternate years. Although the Biennale is actually held every year, the spotlight

alternates between the Biennale of Art (odd-numbered years) and the Biennale of Architecture (even-numbered years). SIX MONTHS OF ARCHITECTURE While the exhibitions dedicated to other arts generally last for ten day (the Dance and Theatre Festivals have now ended), the 15th Biennale of Architecture opened its doors to the public on 28 May and is scheduled to close them on 27 November. Particularly noteworthy this year, is the theme proposed by Alejandro Aravena, a Chilean architect and curator of the 2016 event. Entitled ‘Reporting from the Front’, it is dedicated to the relationship between man and city planning, and focuses primarily on ethics rather than aesthetics, highlighting crucial issues including segregation, outlying areas, migration, traffic and waste. While it is true that architecture is the most political of all the arts, the theme of the 2016 Biennale adds a socio-economic and environmental dimension, as Aravena himself stated during the inaugural conference: “We believe that the advancement of architecture is not a goal in itself but a way to improve people’s quality of life. Given that life ranges from very basic physical needs to the


most intangible dimensions of the human condition, improving the quality of the built environment is an endeavor that has to be tackled on many fronts." The itinerary of the thematic exhibition follows the works of 88 participants from 37 countries, 50 of whom are participating at the Biennale for the first time, including 33 architects under the age of 40. In addition to these, there are 65 national pavilions, with five ‘new entries’ including the Philippines, Lithuania, Nigeria, the Seychelles and Yemen. THE LOCATIONS: A TRIP BACK IN TIME One of the main headquarters of the Biennale of Architecture, Venice’s old ‘Aresenale’, boasts an age-old history. The Arsenale is a massive complex of naval shipyards and workshops, whose first units were built in the 12th century, when the fleets of the Serenissima dominated half of the world’s maritime trade routes. Thanks to careful industrial archaeological work, architects and designers set up different

SOME PRACTICAL INFORMATION WHEN: from 28 May to 27 November OPENING TIMES: 10am-6pm (Fri and Sat 10am-8pm) - Arsenale venue, until 24 September. Closed on Mondays. WHERE: Arsenale (Fondamenta Arsenale); Giardini della Biennale (Castello). HOW TO GET THERE: from Piazzale Roma to the Arsenale: Vaporetto line 1 or 4.1; from Piazzale Roma to the Giardini: Vaporetto line 1 or 5.1. TICKETS: from 15€ (for online purchase: www.biglietteria.labiennale.org) www.labiennale.org #Biennalearchitettura2016

buildings and scenic gardens, at each edition of the Biennale, creating a striking contrast amidst contemporary installations and ancient structures. The second location, whose history is more recent but no less fascinating, is the Giardini della Biennale. The Gardens were created by Napoleon who demolished a working-class district at the eastern end of Venice to create a public garden on the banks of the Bacino di San Marco. The site boasts the 29 historic pavilions of the first foreign countries that participated

at the exhibition. Real works of art, built in 1907 by prestigious architects including Alvar Aalto, Josef Hoffmann and Carlo Scarpa, they include the pure white Art-Noveau-style Central Pavilion, which was built in 1894 to host the main events of the first Biennale. In addition to the institutional sites, the six-month event, involves the entire city, and its most spectacular buildings become locations for installations, off-site events, exhibitions, seminars and debates.

An event characterized by optimism “At previous Biennale Exhibitions we have often complained that the present seems to be characterized by an increasing disconnection between architecture and civil society. At this Biennale, we want to investigate whether and where there are any trends going in the other direction towards renewal; we are looking for encouraging messages,” says Paolo Baratta, President of the Biennale of Venice. The curator Alejandro Aravena echoes his words: “Reporting from the Front is about listening to those who were able to gain a wider perspective and, as a consequence, share their knowledge and experience with those of us whose feet are still on the ground. Architecture deals with giving shape to the places that we inhabit. However, the shape of these places is not only defined by the aesthetic trend of the moment or by the talent of a specific architect. It is the consequence of regulations, interests, economies and policies, or possibly a

lack of coordination, indifference and randomness. The shapes assumed by architecture can improve or ruin the lives of people.”

Paolo Baratta

Alejandro Aravena

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

When film stars descend upon the Lido Undoubtedly one of the hottest events in the world, bringing stars, directors and VIPs of the moment to Venice, or rather to the Lido. Now in its 73rd consecutive year, the International Film Festival promises ten days of fabulous films, exclusive parties and… endless gossip! B Y S I M O N A P. K . D A V I D D I

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or many years the Lido, that small strip of land that extends for a dozen or so kilometers in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, has been the playground of celebrities and crowned heads. It all began in the second half of the 19th century when the international jet-set discovered its long, golden sandy beaches, lapped by a clear blue sea and ‘populated’ it with Art Noveau villas, luxury hotels (two, especially, real icons of elite hospitality: the Excelsior and the Grand Hotel Des Bains), and a casino (a massive rationalist building, currently being restyled). It is, therefore, not surprising that in August 1932, the terrace of the Hotel Excelsior hosted the first film festival, attended by all the film stars of the time including Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Vittorio De Sica and Joan Crawford (an interesting fact: the first film screened on 6 August, 1932, was Doctor Jekyll and Mr. Hyde by Rouben Mamoulian), enhancing the event with a glamorous, worldly allure. A LITTLE OF HISTORY... AND SOME ANECDOTES Festival followed festival – at first every two years – the Film Festival was founded as a part of the Biennale of Venice, so it initially respected this format – but later became a yearly event due to its success with both the public and critics. A special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, was then assigned to the event. Located on the Marconi 14  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016


On the final night of the Venice Film Festival (10 September 2016), the international jury will assign the 73rd Golden Lion for the best film. For the two week duration of the festival, the Lido of Venice becomes the capital of cinema, featuring myriad photographs from the red carpet and countless events for film buffs. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  15


WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Paul Newman

promenade, this Modernist complex was built in record time for the 1937 festival, and since that time has become a symbol of the event. The secret of its incredible success? High-quality films, works that established famous directors (Federico Fellini, Ermanno Olmi and Emir Kusturica, to mention only a few), retrospectives, conventions and scandalous films (the most controversial were Teorema by Pier Paolo Pasolini, A Clockwork Orange and Lolita by Stanley Kubrik, The Last Temptation of Christ by Martin Scorsese and The Secrets of Brokeback Mountain by Ang Lee). All of the above were enhanced by jet-set parties, sumptuous dresses, fabulous jewelry and sensational hair-dos which were featured on the front pages of the tabloids, accompanied by endless gossip, rumours and unadulterated speculation regarding the arrival of actors and VIPs in Venice.

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Brigitte Bardot

The list of anecdotes is never-ending: from Marlene Dietrich who, in 1937, annoyed everyone by behaving like a capricious diva, to the historic fights between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton; from King Edward VIII who arrived in 1956 on the arm of his wife Wallis Simpson – for whom he had abdicated the throne of England to Sean Connery who, in 1967 sped into the Lido 007-style, at the helm of a water taxi; from Marcello Mastroianni who was caught by the paparazzi in flagrante delicto with Swedish actress Anna Karina to Paul Newman, immortalized in 1963, while riding on a water taxi in a photograph that was destined to become one of the most popular and captivating shots ever taken of

Camera, lights, action!

the handsome actor (see photo). And there were Brigitte Bardot who was constantly hounded by the paparazzi and in 1958 was the most sought-after star at every jet-set event held at the Lido (see photo) and the argumentative Luchino Visconti who, despite being a front-runner both in 1954 and in 1960, only won the coveted Golden Lion Award in 1965, and an unknown Marlon Brando who sealed his rise to stardom in 1954 with On the Waterfront. There is no star, even in recent times, who has not graced the red carpet amidst applause and the flashes of hundreds of cameras; even Charlie Chaplin attended the event in 1972, as did the eccentric Salvador Dalì in

Hotel. In 1979, it was the turn of another James Bond, Roger Moore, who starred The timeless, unique charm of Venice in 'Moonraker' which was shot in Murano has transformed the city into the ‘prima and at the Glass Museum. donna’ of the world cinema, the lead More recently, Steven Spielberg’s, 'Indiana player of famous films. For example, the Jones and The Last Crusade' (1989) ‘campielle’ and canals acted as a backdrop immortalized Harrison Ford near the to the love story between Florinda church of San Barnaba. Views and canals Bolkan and Tony Musante in ‘Anonimo were also lead players in ‘Everyone Says Veneziano’, 1970 (see photo), while the I Love You’ (1969) starring Woody Allen Lido and the Grand Hotel Des Bains were and Julia Roberts while, more recently, immortalized in ‘Death in Venice’ (1971) yet another James Bond, Daniel Craig, the in a film by Luchino Visconti. Prior to lead player in 'Casino Royale' (2006) was that, in 1963, several scenes from ‘From seen speeding along the Lagoon. Finally, Russia with Love’, in which Sean Connery the list can only end with 'The Tourist', plays James Bond, were shot on the where Venice acts as a backdrop to the Island of San Giorgio, on a gondola under incredible adventures of Angelina Jolie the Bridge of Sighs, and at the Danieli and Johnny Depp.


Jean-Paul Belmondo

1958, the endlessly photographed Pitt-Jolie couple, the unpredictable Johnny Depp (who, last year, disappointed his female fans by arriving on the red carpet wearing a preposterous outfit and looking heavier than in past years), Madonna, always in search of plaudits as an actress and director, renowned Mediterranean actresses Sofia Loren, Claudia Cardinale and Gina Lollobrigida – among the paparazzi’s favourites, Woody Allen, Scarlett Johansson, Nicole Kidman, Kevin Costner, Harrison Ford, Al Pacino, Sean Penn, Salma Hayek and Natalie Portman, the list is neverending. Before ‘taking to the runway’, stars (and photographers) are eager to show themselves on the ‘blue carpet’, the event marking their arrival at the Lido aboard speeding water taxis or romantic gondolas. THE COMPETITION AND THE PRIZES Glamour and glossy magazines apart, over the years, the ‘competitive’ part of the festival has gradually become more structured, with the introduction of an international jury, the screening of films from Eastern Europe, Japan, China and India and the classification of different sections, each of which is dedicated to a different aspect of filmmaking. In addition to the official selection, which includes up to 20 world premiere feature films competing for the coveted Golden Lion Award, there are also Out-of-Competition sections, featuring documentaries; Orizzonti, for directors and emerging trends; Venezia Classici, dedicated to re-runs of restored cult movies; International Critics’ Week, a series of 8 films chosen from among the debut works presented and Giornate degli Autori-Venice

UniCredit Tower Ryan Goslin with Emma Stone

Days, a series of 12 films chosen for their cultural value. During the closing ceremony, on the last day of the Festival, the 'Golden Lion' awards (the statues replicate the symbol of Venice, the winged lion) are given to the best film, the 'Silver Lion' to the best director, the 'Volpi Cup' (based on the name of one of the founders of the festival) to the best actress and best actor, the Premio (Prize) for the best screenplay, the 'Golden Lion Career Prize' which this year will be awarded to Jean-Paul Belmondo (see photo), the 'Marcello Mastroianni Award' for the best emerging actor or actress and the 'Orizzonti Award' for the best original screenplay. VENEZIA 73 The 73rd International Film Festival opened on 31 August and will end on 10 September; as always, the event has a rich gathering of films and stars at the Lagoon, starting with Ryan Goslin and Emma Stone (see photo), the stars of the musical 'La La Land', which kicked off the event. The patroness of the 2016 Festival, directed by Alberto Barbera, was the actress Sonia Bergamasco –the star of many successful films and of the popular TV series Commisioner Montalbano – while British film director Sam Mendes presided over the jury of the competition. Innovations at this year’s event included the screening of a TV series entitled The Young Pope by Paolo Sorrentino, featuring Jude Law and Diane Keaton: the first two installments will be screened during a world preview on 3 September at Palazzo del Cinema in the Out-of-Competition section. 2016 also saw the return of ‘Cinema nel Giardino’: a non-

competitive section introduced last year that includes different works in terms of genre and duration, whose screenings will be accompanied by meetings with the authors and actors. The event is held outdoors to allow for viewing by non-accredited members of the public. Finally, if you manage to attend one of the exclusive parties held each year at the Excelsior Hotel and happen to run into a woman wearing an evening dress and an ostrich boa who asks you whether you have seen her husband Osvaldo, you’ll know you’ve met the ghost of actress Luisa Ferida, who was shot in 1944, aged just 31, by partisans who unjustly accused her of being a Fascist. She has been seen several times, wandering around the rooms of the hotel. In 2008, director Marco Tullio Giordana dedicated a film to her entitled Sangue Pazzo featuring Monica Bellucci and Luca Zingaretti.

SOME PRACTICAL INFORMATION WHEN: from 31 August to 10 September WHERE: at Palazzo del Cinema, lungomare Marconi – Lido HOW TO GET AROUND VENICE: actv.avmspa.it TICKETS: ticket offices or online at www.labiennale.org/en/cinema/tickets WEBSITE : www.labiennale.org w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   17


WHERE NOW | ITINERARY

The Lido of Venice Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. By Elena Binda

Via Gesù

The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is in fact a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, the Lido is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle. 18   18   WWHHEERREEVVEENNI CI CEEI I SSEEPPTTEEMMBBEERR22016 016

AT THE SEASIDE, LIKE SOMETHING OUT OF A FILM During the Film Festival (from 31 August to 10 September, see previous pages), actors, directors, producers, journalists and stars from all over the world meet at the Lido. Hollywood stars and less wellknown faces on the European or Asian film scene come to walk the red carpet, attend exclusive parties, be interviewed or simply mingle with the crowds. In addition to the promenade, landing stops and, naturally, the Palazzo del Cinema, all classic celebspotting locations include the Lido’s historic hotels. First and foremost, the Excelsior which, in 1932, hosted the very first festival.

A typical setting for video interviews are the Lido’s bathing resorts, with their distinctive ‘tents’ on the beach (the Excelsior’s ‘Moorish cabins’ are world-famous, as are the ‘Tuculs’ of the Hotel des Bains, the unforgettable setting of Luchino Visconti’s Death in Venice). Packed with hordes of visitors during the festival, the resorts, which are much more appealing during the remainder of the year, are great places to spend a fashionable day at the beach. If you prefer a more natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.


The Alberoni beach is also a part of this protected nature reserve.

as inspiration for poets including Goethe, Byron and Shelley.

WHAT TO SEE AT THE LIDO The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time. Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. Located in a strategic position, San Nicolò is situated at the juncture where the lagoon enters the open sea. Also worth a visit is the Jewish cemetery, located ten minutes on foot from the vaporetto docking station. The cemetery dates back to 1386 and has tombstones that date from 500AD to 700AD. Of enormous historic and artistic interest, this cemetery served

WHAT TO DO AT THE LIDO Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat

from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants. ICONIC LANDMARK On the page at the side, a view of the Lido of Venice as seen by those arriving by boat. Above, a period photograph of the rooms of the Excelsior, the legendary hotel where the first Film Festival was held in 1932. Below, the ‘Murazzi’. PASSION TIP A bike tour is the best way to visit the island. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. To recharge your batteries in style, head to the 'Essentiale' restaurant to enjoy a stunning view of St. Mark’s. See page 51.

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boggi.com

Venezia | San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo) | Tel. +39 041 296.03.21 | c/o Stazione Santa Lucia - Fondamenta Santa Lucia n. 20 | Tel. +39 041 524.64.45


MADE IN


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Welcome Giorgio Armani! All the style, class and glamour of ‘King Giorgio’ shine at his new boutique in Venice, the first Giorgio Armani mono-brand store in the city. By Stefania Vida

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ashion addicts rejoice! The famous designer has chosen the beautiful city of Venice for his new ‘home’ and has taken up residence in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, in the San Marco Sestiere, an exclusive district to host a boutique that is just as exclusive. Spread over more than 160 square metres, it houses the entire range of Giorgio Armani’s men and women’s prêt-à-porter collections of clothing and accessories… a must-visit destination for those who love fashion and Made in Italy style! This season, in his women’s collections, colours take centre stage both in clothing and accessories: warm and vibrant yet always elegant, they are designed to be worn at all times of the day. 22  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

Where men are in question, Armani has opted for more low-key shades, giving free rein to nuances of blue, green and grey, for a casual yet ultra-stylish look. The style of the boutique deserves a separate mention. Those entering the store will not only be struck by the garments displayed but also by its elegant, minimalist design, in perfect keeping with the aesthetic canons of the brand. It comes as no surprise that its décor carries the Armani/Casa signature: a triumph of platinum finishes, exquisite onyx and marble floors (with different patterns for each room) and wallpaper in shades of gold, silver and aqua blue and green, that mirror the shades of the flooring.

>> www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto line 1, 2 and N (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. TRANSPORT

References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, information including telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility, is subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, museum loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop).

Atelier Segalin by Daniela Ghezzo Premium-quality footwear, featuring unusual shapes, original colours and soft, shiny leathers. Daniela trained at the school of master craftsman Rolando Segalin, whose atelier she later took over. Daniela’s work has been featured in several of the world’s most prestigious publications. An exclusive, must-visit store. Open Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/3.30pm7pm; Sat 3.30pm-7pm. www.danielaghezzo.it. San Marco, 4365 (Calle dei Fuseri). T: 041 5222115. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Balducci Since 1974, Franco Balducci has crafted handmade bags, shoes, belts and other items, using naturally tanned Tuscan leather. The owner’s country-chic taste mirrors his aesthetic to perfection! Open 9am-1pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.balducci-borse.com. Cannaregio, 1593 (Rio Terà San Leonardo). T: 041 5246233. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marcuola stop).

Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop).

Fanny Gloves Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves. it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop).

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion .Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop).

G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm.

Contemporary shopping experience Spread over four floors surrounding an inner courtyard hosting Felice Limosani’s exquisite light installation, luxury department store Coin Excelsior in Cannaregio is located just steps from the Rialto Bridge. The store hosts a fabulous a selection of both Italian and International men and women’s fashion brands, furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and high-end perfumes and fragrances (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.gruppocoin.it. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).

Gabriele Gmeiner Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting an impressive resume. The designer studied at several of the world’s most prestigious design schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. By appointment only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com. San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189.

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   23


IN A MILLENARY CITY TRADITION MATTERS. Emilio Ceccato shop - Rialto Bridge Venice - T: 041 3198826 emilioceccatoshop@gmail.com


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Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia

www.emilioceccato.com


[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Sought-after ETRO plateau pump crafted from a mixture of velvet and suede.

BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open MonSat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop).

FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop).

FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop)

CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). : 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti).

GIORGIO ARMANI NEW OPENING www.armani.com Open Mon- Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). • Armani Jeans at Marco Polo Airport. GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). • Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

BRAND NEW VENETIAN LUXURY HOUSE T-Fondaco dei Tedeschi is scheduled to open at the beginning of October (a few privileged guests will be treated to a preview at the end of September). A mustvisit destination for all visitors to the city. Located on the Grand Canal, near the Rialto Bridge, the building, represented here in a painting by Canaletto dating back to the beginning of 1700, has a rich, storied past. 26  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

The elegant ‘Mercer’ by MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS is the brand’s must-have for the season.


LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. 7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). • Marco Polo (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072. ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, MICHAEL KORS NEW OPENING 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 www.michaelkors.com. San Marco, 1461 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. 7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). stop). • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 (open 6.30am-9pm). MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10amMarco, 1471 (Salizada 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. San Moisè). T: 041 San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). 8106066.Vaporetto T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 line 1 or 2 (San (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Marco-Vallaresso stop). VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). VERSACE—www.versace.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm).

Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

PRADA UOMO’s shopping bag is wellsuited for holding all the indispensable items required by the man of today.

Combined with a pair of pumps, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’s multi-coloured jersey dress enhanced by a zig-zag patterns lends a touch of young, contemporary allure to any ensemble.

w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   27


SHOPPING of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. All handcrafted and made-to-measure! Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 4337. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop)

Giuliana Longo

This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

La Parigina An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather

Macrì

Mazzon Le Borse Not just a store, but an artisanal workshop, where bags, suitcases and belts are handmade to order, even for the next day. Painstaking attention to detail and surprisingly affordable prices are its distinctive characteristics. Open Mon-Sat 9.30-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Polo, 2807

COMING SOON

The ‘Murano’ collection of essences by THE MERCHANT OF VENICE convey the myriad aspects of the fascinating cities of the East.

(Campiello San Tomà). T: 041 5203421. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop).

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

Mori & Bozzi Shoes for the coolest of the cool: whatever the latest fad - pointy or square - it's here. Not only shoes, but also bags and accessories (mainly for women) in a shop that does not have a website but is extremely active on Facebook. Open Mon-Sat. 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Cannaregio, 2367 (Rio Terà della Maddalena, Strada Nova). T: 041 715261. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marcuola stop).

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. PASSION TIP Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato).

BY DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © OMA

René Caovilla

Discover the new authentic Venetian experience The new exclusive department store “T-Fondaco dei Tedeschi” will be open in October, a few steps away from the Rialto bridge. The recently renovated 13th century building that extends over an impressive 7000sqm will be a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store will offer the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and enjoy the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. » New simplified tax refund system at the cashdesk, in partnership with Premier Tax Free. www.fondaco.com – www.dfsgroup.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, Rialto Bridge

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In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

SV Lab As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;


Dedicated to men and women in love

Salvadori Diamond Atelier Piazza San Marco, 67 - Venezia

www.salvadori-venezia.com


SHOPPING

JAEGER-LECOULTRE See page 34.

PIEDÀTERRE See page 28.

Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop).

Marco, 1996/d (Campo San Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

ART GALLERIES

Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery is a reference point for dealers and collectors specializing in contemporary art works and sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T. 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso).

Bugno Art Gallery Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the gallery has cooperated with well-known artists on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, as well as other international contemporary painters. Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www.bugnoartgallery.it. San

Contini Galleria d’Arte

Galleria Michela Rizzo A small exhibition space located just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Established in 2004, this relatively

IWC SCHAFFAUSEN See page 34.

recent gallery has become a reference point on the contemporary art scene for both international and emerging artists. Open Tues-Sat 11am-6pm. www. galleriamichelarizzo.net. Isola della Giudecca, 800Q. T: 041 8391711. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 2 (Palanca stop).

Galleria Ravagnan Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and international renown, exports art works throughout the world and participates at prominent international and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery. com. Piazza San Marco, 50/a. T. 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Melori & Rosenberg Gallery Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks of other well-known Italian and international artists. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Novo). T. 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop).

Michele Novello Gallery Its studio and the owner’s in-depth knowledge of contemporary art are the hallmark features of this gallery. Assisted by his daughter, well-known Venetian gallerist, Michele Novello is always in search of innovative pieces. Among others, he boasts an important partnership with prominent art dealer Jack Shiman Kusama in New York. Open Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-6pm. San Marco, 2016/A. T: 041 5285599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta

AUDEMARS PIGUET St. Mark ‘s square acts as the perfect backdrop to the new boutique of the famous ‘Le Brassus’ brand, a reference point of aesthetic integrity, architectural design, innovation and craftsmanship.

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Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its


TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF

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FINE WATCHMAKING.

ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR IN PINK GOLD

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES: MILANO · PORTO CERVO · ROMA · VENEZIA


SHOPPING

Artistic glass in Murano

clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop).

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station - Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

The art of making glass by solidifying silica to obtain a transparent material that is at once hard yet delicate, dates back to a distant past (the history of glassmaking can be traced back to 3500 B.C. in Mesopotamia). Several archeological excavations testify to the fact that glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, in the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was one small setback to glassmaking: the furnaces used to create the molten glass were a constant fire hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As a consequence, by law, all the glass workshops were moved to Murano where they are still located today. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. It was also here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendour during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. As a result of this experience, during the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including

big-names of the likes of Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items which are often displayed at museums. Murano has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history (Barovier&Toso, the sixth oldest family-run company in the world, is still operative today) or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (Venini, which has become an internationally renowned brand, has collaborated with designers of the likes of Giò Ponti, Mimmo Rotella, Gaetano Pesce, Gae Aulenti, Ettore Sottsass, Matteo Thun, Fabio Novembre or Flo Perkins). While strolling through the streets of Murano, you will be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, you need to bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and does not come cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take your custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www. gruppocoin.it. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks

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Art Glass in Murano Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custom-made items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

Fondamenta Navagero, 76 | 30141 MURANO | VENEZIA T: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 | fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com • www.ducalemurano.com


SHOPPING some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Cartier   In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Chopard Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Damiani

coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044.T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

IWC Schaffausen

NEW OPENING Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

NEW OPENING A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Dodo

Nardi Venezia

The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.

A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www. jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Omega Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Tag Heuer Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker to master luxury sports chronographs with an unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant quest for innovation, excellence, performance and prestige is reflected in its partnerships with F1 team Vodafone McLaren Mercedes and its World Champions, Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Tiffany & Co.

NEW OPENING Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

PASSION SHOPPING Ca’ Macana

TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany’s new Venetian boutique, with its sophisticated interiors and spectacular jewelry, is slated to become one of the city’s key destinations for luxury shopping.

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One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also


SHOPPING

Top antiques

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality and tradition.

Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop).

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Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Antichità San Samuele

Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.it. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop).

Alessandro Zoppi


SHOPPING

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (San Tomà stop). Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Venetia Studium

Ca' Nova

Franco Dell'Orto

Antichità Zanutto w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   37


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www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.caberfurs.com T: 02 xxxxx San Marco, 5114. T: 041 5229242. More info: www.wheremilan.com

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ISOLA LA GRAZIA

Museo Storico


VENICE EXPERIENCE ADVERTORIAL

JADE MARTINE The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be found at this small yet charming boutique that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’ warmth and French charm. Sophisticated underwear and accessories, either for personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality gifts. A favourite haunt of Venetian locals, it is also patronized by lingerie aficionados visiting Venice. This boutique stocks a wide assortment of beautiful items, and courteous assistants are always on-hand to offer useful advice. A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995.

San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892.

ANATEMA Scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags and hand-sewn silk ties. Rossana Righini has infused this boutique with her inimitable concept of style, colour and elegance. The window displays and décor express its owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance.” If you happen to be in Venice, make sure to drop in, and, if you can’t get something out of your mind once you’ve returned home, go to her website where you’ll find a link next to each product description giving you further information.

www.anatema.it San Polo, 2603 (Frari district). T: 041 5242221 or 340 1258565.

I MUSCHIERI In Venetian dialect, the word 'Muschieri' means perfumers, and this is one of the oldest and best-stocked perfumeries in Venice. It is located in the street where the old perfume corporation was headquartered in medieval times. Originating from the passion of Rosa and Antonietta Resta, it is not just a perfume shop but also a place dedicated to research, the art of perfume-making and its history, linked, above all, to the city of Venice.

San Marco, 1177 (Frezzeria). T: 041 522 8940.

FRANCIS MODEL Bags and exclusive items, created using select, colourful materials. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi has dedicated himself with pride and passion to the production of handbags and briefcases since 1965. His desire to offer his clientele superb quality bags, has made this tiny workshop one of the last and rarest shops in Venice devoted to authentic Made in Italy craftsmanship.

www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.francismodel.it T: 02 xxxxx San Polo, (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. More info:773/A www.wheremilan.com More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   39


SHOPPING hold conferences and courses on the history of Venetian masks and traditional mask-making techniques. PASSION TIP Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana. com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

The Rialto Market

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face

onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).

... and more There is no lack of specialty shops in the Rialto area. We recommend three of them; authentic, unmissable gems. The first can be found at the foot of the Rialto Bridge: Piedàterre (San Polo 60) is a real boutique selling Venetian 'furlane', exquisite, handcrafted slippers crafted using age-old techniques. Next, in Calle Do Mori, you’ll find Venice’s most ancient ‘bacaro’ (built in 1462): Osteria Do Mori (San Polo 429), one of Casanova’s favourite haunts. Finally, by heading towards Campo San Silvestro, in Rio Terrà di San Silvestro you will find Gems of Venice (San Polo 1044), a jewelry store and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into wearable works of art.

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The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop).

Seno Luciano L’Argentiere This exquisite 'silverware boutique' specializes in jewels, clocks and silver objet d’art. A familyrun business, it is renowned for its expertise and attentive, courteous staff. Open Mon 4pm-7.15pm; Tues-Sat 10am-12.30pm/4pm-19.15pm. San Marco, 5215. T: 041 5205292. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Venezia, le stampe Located in front of the Goldoni Theatre, this shop stocks a wide selection of antique prints, frames, and Venetian antiques and handicrafts. The jewel-in-the crown of this small, refined showroom are its decorative prints. www.venezialestampe. it. San Marco, 4606/B (Calle Teatro Goldoni della Commedia). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Venini

Gems of Venice

An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini. com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops).


DINING

A legend in Venice Raise your hand if you’ve never heard about Harry’s Bar. This cultural institution and must-visit destination for VIP watching, has been the favourite place of almost ever celebrity to visit Venice since it first opened. By Stefania Vida

F

ounded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice (including Ernest Hemingway, Orson Welles, Truman Capote, Georges Braque and Peggy Guggenheim). Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour the slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. The venue is open daily from 10.30am to 11pm, and is ideal at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo!

young American student who moved to Venice with his aunt in the 1920s. After two months, Harry Pickering fell out with his aunt, who went away leaving him with her dog and very little money. Giuseppe Cipriani, who was the barman of the hotel where the American was staying, lent him money for his passage home. A few years later, the young man returned to Venice, and, as a sign of gratitude, not only paid Cipriani back the loan but also added an additional sum so that he could open his own bar. Cipriani decided to call his venue ‘Harry’s Bar’ in honour of his young friend, and Harry’s Bar opened on 13 May 1931.

The history of the establishment of this Venetian landmark is definitely worth knowing. The bar was named after Harry Pickering, a

>> www.harrysbarvenezia.com San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 528 5777

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The Bellini’s cocktail For those who know nothing of its origins, the Bellini was invented in 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, the owner of Harry’s bar. Thanks to its pinkish hue, which reminded Cipriani of the colour of the toga worn by a saint in a painting by Giovanni Bellini, he called the cocktail 'Bellini'. The secret ingredients for a perfect Bellini are a mix of a puree of ripe, white peaches and Prosecco or Champagne.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

"FIVE STAR" RESTAURANTS Aman Venice Restaurant The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’ . PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. www.aman.com. c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop).

Antinoo’s Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge & Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. www.sinahotels.com. c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop).

Aromi Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chiane des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. €€€. www.molinostuckyhilton.it. c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop).

Canova

chef offers wonderfully fresh, imaginative dishes whose flavour is highlighted by Mediterranean aromas and Eastern spices. €€€. www.bauervenezia. com. c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

or meat courses. Also serves tantalizing aperitivi. €€€. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop).

Dopolavoro

Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. www. casagredohotel.com. c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work, this upscale restaurant is the go-to address after spending a long day exploring the labyrinthine street and treasures of Venice. Its chef, Giancarlo Perbellini skillfully combines tradition, creativity and a taste for innovation at this restaurant situated on an exclusive, private island measuring just 16 hectares in length. Open for dinner (closed on Tuesdays), 6.30pm-11pm. €€€. www.jwvenice.com. c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from Piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes.

Gran Canal

L’Alcova

La Caravella

Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).

Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. www.restaurantlacaravella. com. c/o Hotel Saturnia. Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop).

Il Giardino Segreto

La Cusina

This restaurant pays tribute to Italian gastronomy and excellence. Thanks to thematic islands featuring an open-plan kitchen, you can watch the chef turning out his culinary delights while you wait. The restaurant offers a fabulous selection of fine wines and champagnes to accompany your choice of fish

For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s

Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Cosimo Giampaolo offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm10.30pm. €€€. www.baglionihotels.com. c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop).

Club del Doge The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. www.clubdeldoge.com. c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop).

Plied by gon (water buses is the city’s m The piano n allows guest full spectrum maritime act

De Pisis For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. PASSION TIP Faithful to its Japanese roots, the

AMAN VENICE RESTAURANT Featuring a magnificent fireplace and a Cesare Rotta ceiling mural, Aman’s yellow dining room, overlooking the Grand Canal, is as sumptuous and romantic as the city itself.

w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   43


DINING

The stars of taste

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,

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'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way.

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DINING

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition.

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco.

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels.

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DINING

Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele. www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101.

seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. www. lacusina.it. c/o The Westin Europa & Regina (www. starwoodhotels.com). San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

La Terrazza Since 1790, La Terrazza has been renowned in Venice for giving its name to the restaurant at Hotel Bonvecchiati. Set against the backdrop of the Canal and Calle Goldoni, in summer it is a must-visit place to savour typical Venetian, Italian and international cuisine. Also offers a fabulous selection of the best Italian and international vintages. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. www. hotelbonvecchiati.it. c/o Hotel Bonvecchiati. San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni). T: 041 5285017. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Le Maschere Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. 46  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

Gran Caffè Quadri

Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop).

Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop).

Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. www. starhotels.com. c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Oro Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. www.belmond.com. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop).

San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice The perfect place in San Clemente to savour the

Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

chef’s creations or rediscover Mediterranean specialties. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated just steps from the sacristy, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages and offers an incomparable view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. www.kempinski.com. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop).

Terrazza Danieli A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.terrazzadanieli.com. c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop).


DINING TASTING EXPERIENCE Cantina Do Spade One of Venice’s oldest ‘osterie’, Cantina Do Spade is located just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge. Standouts include its fried food, calamari, meatballs, ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’ and its traditional “cicchetti”. Open daily 10am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. €. www.cantinadospade.com. San Polo, 860 (Calle do spade). T: 041 5210583. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop).

Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop).

Il diavolo e l’acquasanta A small eatery offering simple yet exquisite dishes, in a calle that is also one of the favourite haunts of Venetian locals. Open daily 10am-3pm and 6pm-11pm. €. San Polo, 561/b (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 2770307. Vaporetto linea 1 (Rialto Mercato stop).

L’aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop).

Ostaria Al Garanghelo The result of a restyling of an old pastry shop, Osteria Al Garanghelo greets customers in a simple yet warm ambience. Specialties include “tagliatelle al baccalà”, “linguine con folpetti” and “pappardelle alle secole”. €. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.algaranghelo.it. San Polo, 15701571 (Calle dei Boteri). T: 041 721721. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop).

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria).

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Abeccafico An elegant restaurant located near to the Ponte dell’Accademia. Offering seating both inside and on the campo Santo Stefano, you can either order a cocktail, or stop for lunch or dinner. Its Sicilian chef will treat you like royalty. €€€. www. abeccaficovenezia.com. San Marco, 2801 (Campo Santo Stefano. T: 041 5274879. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop).

Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 Alle Testiere (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant A la Vecia Cavana is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and Set within the picturesque environment of an old seafood, with a menu that changes frequently restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www. to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. Mondo Novo). T: 041 marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Antica Carbonera

A Le Colonete Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, A Le Colonete serves Venetian-inspired dishes in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Its pasta dishes are complimented by a wide selection of meat and fishbased ‘antipasti’ and an astute selection of wines. The kitchen is open daily 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10pm; the bar and 'cicchetti' are open daily 10am-10pm. €€€. www.trattoriaalecolonete.it. San Marco, 987 (Calle dei Fabbri). T: 041 5237082. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Antiche Carampane

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of Set against the magical backdrop of Campo fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied experience under the stars. This small corner of by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto (Rialto-Mercato stop). stop).

Acqua Pazza

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop).

Alla Borsa Located just a stone’s throw from the La Fenice Opera House and St. Mark’s square, you can enjoy tantalizing, beautifully prepared Mediterranean cuisine at this elegant eatery. The kitchen is open from 12pm to midnight. €€€. www. ristoranteallaborsa.com. San Marco, 2018 (Calle de le Veste). T: 041 5235434. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Antico Martini Located next to the famous La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop).

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com.

Top-notch, prevalently fish-based, traditional Venetian cuisine at RISTORANTE DO FORNI. w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   47


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Pavilion Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, its location will amaze you. The restaurant (which keeps the promise of its name with a lovely outdoor area) is located in the Castello district just a stone’s throw from St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge. Listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’, its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed fireplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine and will not disappoint. Signature dishes include baccalà (cod), Venetian-style liver, ‘granceola’ (crab), polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto.

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AL GATTO NERO (BURANO) Freshly caught fish and homemade pasta are served at this familyrun trattoria in the heart of Burano. The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the kingdom of Ruggero Bovo, since 1965. Aided by his wife Lucia, his tireless assistant, who puts a different spin on traditional dishes, and his son Massimiliano, a certified sommelier, Bovo‘s restaurant is reputed to be one of the most famous in the lagoon. “I wanted to be a musician when I grew up,” Ruggero explains, “But I needed to have a steady income and decided to use my creativity in the kitchen.” Must-try dishes include the chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ (Goby fish) or his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’ (crab). www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.gattonero.com T: 02 xxxxx Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120. More info: www.wheremilan.com

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

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TRULY VENETIAN Looking for a really typical restaurant amidst La Biennale di Venezia the hundreds Educational Arsenale Arsenale di Venezia of venues you’ll La Biennale di Venezia Giardino delle Vergini while Teatro alle Tese come across strolling through Venice? Here are Arsenale di Venezia a few tips to help ● Da Romano San Martino you find the right Al Gatto Nero ● La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale place wherever Chiesa di San Martino you happen to be, in the ‘calli’, at the Lido or while enjoying an Museo Storico Navale di Venezia San Francesco di Paola excursion to the BURANO islands…

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I


VENICE EXPERIENCE ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA FAVORITA (LIDO) Luca Pradel and his wife Gabriella have been running this historic trattoria with passion since 1950, and this passion is not only reserved for celebrities attending the Film Festival! A combination of a family trattoria and a cosmopolitan restaurant, La Favorita pays tribute to Venetian cuisine, especially fish and seafood, with simple dishes that are fragrant and full of flavour. Try the house special, ‘Spaghettoni Leonardo’, pasta with clams and mussels. 'Al fresco' dining is available in summer. Open for dinner only from Monday to Thursday. Lido di Venezia - Via Francesco Duodo, 33. T: 041 5261626.

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO (BURANO) Opened in Burano ‘even before tourism began’, Trattoria Da Romano has been run with love by the Barbaro family for four generations, and it is not an accident that it is listed as one of ‘Italy’s historical establishments’. Creatively decorated, the trattoria is renowned for fish, seafood and risottos. The chef uses fresh, seasonal locally sourced ingredients. Standouts include ‘risotto di Go’ and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked only over wood. Famous guests who have dined here include Pirandello, De Niro, Stallone, Philippe Starck and Joan Mirò who signed the guest book with a drawing. www.daromano.it Burano - Via Baldassarre Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a soughtafter destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of his dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. Expect traditional Italian dishes served in a vibrant ambience. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary ‘Orient Express’ and pay tribute to the history of Venice, acting as a bridge between the West and the East. The restaurant’s name pays homage to history, because one of Venice’s oldest furnaces was originally located here. www.doforni.it Venezia - Calle dei Specchieri, 468. T: 041 5232148.

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Trattora Da Remigio is located in Sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s Square. Although it was officially established in 1954, rumour has it that the venue has been a trattoria since olden times. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. At this small place, with its rustic yet modern, wood-furnished environs, you will find straightforward renditions of Adriatic cuisine, including wonderfully fresh fish, traditional pasta dishes and delicious mixed fried seafood and vegetables. www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 Venezia - Salizada dei Greci, 3416. T: 02 xxxxx T: 041 5230089. More info: www.wheremilan.com More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   49


DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop).

Da Mario alla Fava Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing atmosphere far removed from the crowds of tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking which he does with panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Giorgione

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

50  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele an unusual combination of Venetian specialties and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello, 1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it. T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop).

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop).

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop).

La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop).

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www. laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop).

La Zucca While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant, it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables. Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca. it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop).

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop).

Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line).

Muro Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier). T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San Tomà stop).

Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop).


Advertorial

PHOTOS © MORENO GALLO

The view is served

Far from the hustle and bustle of Venice’s more crowded districts and just a 10-minute walk from St. Mark’s Square, you can lunch or dine on a terrace that boasts a magnificent view over the lagoon. This is the fabulous option offered by restaurant-lounge bar ”Essentiale”, located in one of the most panoramic positions on the Lido of Venice, only 50 metres from the vaporetto stop and the docking stations of private boats. Situated in an early 20th-century villa, the facility has a magnificent veranda featuring typical Venetian-style furnishings and a garden terrace where you can linger until late in the evening and admire St. Marks under the moonlight. Loved by guests on account of its convenient position and designed to accommodate up to 60 diners, it offers traditional Venetian cuisine as well as international dishes, and an excellent selection of wines to toast the beauty spread out in front of you.

"Essentiale" Restaurant Lounge c/o Hotel Villa Laguna Lido di Venezia, Via Sandro Gallo, 6 T: 041 5261316

At the table of the ‘gods’ – Its strategic position makes the “Essentiale” restaurant a highly sought-after location during the Film Festival. Its panoramic terrace is often used to host parties and presentations associated with the festival, and its proximity to the docking station make it a great spot to watch VIPs arriving by boat!

w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   51


ENTERTAINMENT

Enjoy the 'Bacaro tour'! Soak up the authentic Venetian atmosphere of a classic “Bacaro tour” at one of the city’s backstreet bacari located just steps from the Rialto Bridge… A not-to-be-missed tasting experience. By Stefania Vida

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t’s evening; you’re done with sightseeing, taken all the customary photos, bought the masks, souvenirs and the whole shebang. Now, dedicate a few hours to the most typical of Venetian rituals: the aperitivo! Finding a place where you can sample delicious ‘chicchetti (small bites or plates of food) and ‘ombre’ (the glasses of wine that Venetians drink to wash down the ‘chicchetti’), or enjoy a classical 'Spritz' can be daunting. But don’t worry, the places suggested below are guaranteed to please. But first, a short explanation of the terminology you’ll need to know when visiting Venice: the bacaro, or bacaréto, is a particular type of Venetian osteria (usually a small bar area), where a wide selection of wines and small snacks (called 'cicchetti') are served. A good place to begin is Al Mercà (San Polo, 213), in the very central Rialto Bridge area, a 10 square-meter tavern where you can enjoy Venice’s classic tuna’ polpettine’ (little meatballs), the ‘sarde in saor’ or tiny white-bread sandwiches, accompanied by excellent wine and beer. The beautifully presented display of ‘cicchetti’ 52  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

at Osteria Dai Zemei (San Polo, 1045/B) will confirm you’re in the right place: more than twenty different varieties of sliced homemade bread, distinguished by their freshness, creativity, inventiveness and culinary research, await you! Across the iconic Rialto Bridge, on the other side of the Grand Canal, tucked down an alleyway, is tiny All'Arco (San Polo, 436): their delicious ‘chicchetti’, based on traditional recipes and made only from the freshest ingredients, are a delightful treat to sample while sipping a glass of wine as you chat, laugh and munch! Around the corner is Cantina Do Mori (San Polo 429). Similar in style to All’Arco, it boasts a warm, welcoming atmosphere that is a must-try if you want to experience a typical Venetian adventure. And finally, Ai Nomboli (San Polo 222717/B) is worth a mention. Don’t be misled by the simplicity of the furniture; managed by the same family for years, everything here tastes special, whether it’s a ‘tramezzino’, a sandwich or a quick meal. Their barley soup and risotti 'al volo' (literally, 'on the fly') are a must.

The "Spritz"


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city (after the Michiel Theater, the Tron Theater -1581- and the San Moisé Theater -1613). Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ARLECCHINO ON SHOW Don’t miss “Arlecchino Servitore di Due Padroni” based on Carlo Goldoni’s work, with English and French subtitles, until 9 October (every Tues, Thurs, Fri at 8pm and every Sun at 6pm). www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop).

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice. it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations in the schedule may occur due to artistic or technical reasons. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish) as well as the option of visiting the in-house exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas (see Hot dates, page 8). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Teatro Malibran Opened in 1678, during the 17th and 18th centuries, the theatre, at that time known as ‘Teatro San Giovanni Crisostomo’, was mainly famed for its operas. Dripping with elegant ornamentation, it was known as the biggest, most beautiful and richest theatre in the city. Acquired by the City of Venice in 1992, after being restored and enlarged, it temporarily hosted the orchestra of La Fenice Theatre which was destroyed by arson in 1996 (see listing). In 2001, it became Venice’s second largest alternative for opera. www.teatrolafenice.it. Cannaregio, 5873. T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop).

Teatro San Gallo Unlike other theatres in the city (La Fenice, the Goldoni and the Malibran), the building was constructed in 1924 as a cinema (Cinema Olimpia), only being converted into a theatre in 2007. After various vicissitudes, in October 2015, it began staging musicals and plays with the aim of attracting an international audience and promoting educational activities.

VENICE ON SHOW Every night of the year, “Venezia, The Show” is performed in English (the theatre is equipped with audio guides for other languages), see illustrated box on this page. The theatre is also available for private parties, events, and conferences. www.teatrosangallo.net. San Marco, 1097 (Campo San Gallo). T: 041 2412002. Booking office email: teatrosangallo@gmail.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport).

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome's Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational basis: 'Carmen' by Georges Bizet, 'Aida', 'La Traviata', 'Il Trovatore' by Giuseppe Verdi and 'Turandot' by Giacomo Puccini. This year, among others, its program of ballets included the spectacular ‘Roberto Bolle and Friends’ event (18 July). MARIA CALLAS Until 18 September at“AMOArena Museo Opera”, make sure to visit the ‘Maria Callas’ exhibition. The exhibit features films, interviews and unpublished memorabilia of the Diva who made her Italy debut at none other than the Arena of Verona 69 years ago. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map

Venezia The Show Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Teatro San Gallo is an unusual venue. Every evening, for the past six years, it has staged a unique type of entertainment, a permanent performance that narrates the history of Venice from its origins to the present time in English. Lasting an hour and a half, ‘Venezia The Show’ explores 1,500 years of the history, traditions, legends, anecdotes (and scandals!) of the world’s most enchanting city, amidst comedy and drama, recitals and spectacular, immersive screenings. Undoubtedly one of the most involving and immediate ways of discovering Venice, while enjoying the magical atmosphere of a night at the theatre. www.teatrosangallo.net Daily performances at 8pm (from 1 March to 29 October) or at 7.30pm (from 30 October to 29 February). Audio guides in another 7 languages are also available. Full price ticket €39. San Marco 1097 (Campo San Gallo). T: 041 2412002. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop or San MarcoVallaresso stop) or 2 (Rialto stop or Giardinetti stop).

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ENTERTAINMENT

Shakespeare in Veneto From March to December 2016, 60 shows to relive William Shakespeare operas in unique places and magical atmospheres. This event will celebrate the 400th Anniversary of the death of William Shakespeare, with original language representations of his works in the cities of the Veneto region where they were set: the legendary cloister of Juliet’s Tomb in romantic Verona; the noble, historical Venetian 'Palazzi'; the antique Villas in the areas of the ancient Republic of Venice and a fairytale castle with a breathtaking panorama of Lake Garda. > Verona: Romeo and Juliet (The Cloister of Juliet’s Tomb-Summer venue and Santa Maria in Chiavica Church-Winter venue) > Venice: Othello (Ca’ Sagredo Hotel) and The Merchant of Venice (Palazzo Marin) > Padua, Monselice: The Taming of the Shrew (Villa Duodo) > Lake Garda, Torri del Benaco (Verona): The two Gentlemen of Verona (Scaliger Castle) For further information and booking visit: www.shakespeareinveneto.it

SHOW BEES, EVENTI and INTERSUONI BMU by arrangement with PATRICK SHART & ALAIN BOYACI, MOONLIGHT PRODUCTIONS present

WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis in the heart of the Serenissima, the ideal place for a one-of-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop).

Centro Benessere Casanova An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop).

San Clemente Palace Kempisky Offering a wide selection of exclusive treatments, the San Clemente Palace Kempisky is the ideal place to shut the door on reality. Here you can either opt for a gentle, soothing Shiatsu massage, or lymphatic drainage, whose benefits range from a decrease in facial puffiness to a smoothing of cellulite and a soothing of muscle soreness. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempisky. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111.

JW Marriott Venice

14 SEPTEMBER

WEDNESDAY

TH

ARENA DI VERONA

Tickets: TICKETONE GETICKET UNICREDIT Information: 045 803 9156 info@eventiverona.it

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Housed in a simple and elegant building dating from the early 20th century, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes.

Eforea Spa An oasis of wellness where you can pamper yourself with massages and professional treatments. The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop).


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An unexpected Venice: a tour of the ghetto Five-hundred years after its inception, the Jewish ghetto of Venice reveals all of its charms By Simona P. K. Daviddi

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he Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in March 1516. It is located in a secluded Sestiere (neighbourhood) of Cannaregio and is celebrating its 500th anniversary. An interesting fact: the word ‘ghetto’ derives from the Yiddish pronunciation ‘geto’, old Venetian dialect for ‘foundry. This word would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘schole’ 56  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

(literally schools), each one built for every ethnic-linguist group inhabiting the ghetto, the ‘tower’ houses, and the workshops. You can see the more recent memorials dedicated to Holocaust victims, as well as the writings and engravings describing the obligations that the Jews were forced to observe and the remains of the access points and heavy gates that were used to segregate its inhabitants. In spite of being cut off from the rest of the city, the Jews transformed the ghetto into a place where they could develop Jewish traditions, but one that also represented a melting pot of cultures, which influenced Venetian society. To get an idea of its history, we suggest a visit to the

highly insightful exhibition entitled ‘Venezia, gli Ebrei e l’Europa 1516-2016’ (‘Venice, the Jews and Europe, 1516-2016’) mounted at Palazzo Ducale and scheduled to run until midNovember 2016. The exhibition is not the only initiative scheduled to celebrate this important anniversary: a complete calendar of the events can be found at www.veniceghetto500.org.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop).

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic Church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. www. basilicasanmarco.it. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop).

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop).

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Cannaregio

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

This is one of the most densely populated Sestieri in Venice, and, regardless of where you happen to be staying, this district is well worth a visit. A classic, picture-postcard neighbourhood, it is characterized by labyrinthine streets and canals, gondoliers wearing striped vests, stalls and painters sitting at their easels. Everyone adores Venice on its looks alone, but once in Cannaregio you’ll fall for its personality.

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop).

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop).

Chiesa & Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop).

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop).

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required.

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop).

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s

VENICE BIENNALE For more than a century, the Venice Biennale has been one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world. Renowned for its avant-garde approach to research and the promotion of new artistic trends, it organizes important international exhibitions related to art and architecture (it is held bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is considered the world’s number one platform for its International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (annual), its Music and Theatre Festival and its more recent Dance Festival. In addition to its traditional appointments, it has added new, permanent activities over time. Costs, venues and opening hours vary according to the activity underway. Voucher Venezia Unica holders are eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). www.labiennale.org

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narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop).

delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop).

San Giorgio Maggiore

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop).

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop).

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop).

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop).

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

The islands

The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'

Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.

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Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include


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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-6pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop).

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-6pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136

(Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Casa di Carlo Goldoni Palazzo Centanni, at San Polo, is the house where Carlo Goldoni was born in 1707. It houses a small museum dedicated to revered Italian playwright Carlo Goldoni, a puppet theatre boasting original 18th century puppets as well as a number of other features that have been updated for educational purposes, including paintings and 18th century artifacts. Other must-visit attractions include the archives and the library of theatre studies which boasts more than 30,000 books and authentic manuscripts. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am4pm (last admission 3.30pm). Closed on Wed, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it. San Polo 2794. T: 041 2759325. Vaporetto lines 1 and 2 (San Tomà stop).

Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s.

Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am-11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.it. Isola di Torcello, 4/L (Ve). T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12.

Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice, serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to photography, design, graphics and applied arts. In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships, it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually, to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano (Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square, under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www. bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro, 2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041 5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a. Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca 620.

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Grand Canal's treasures The beautiful 14th century facade of Ca' Sagredo, a ‘palazzo’ overlooking the Grand Canal conceals an interior brimming over with treasures. Frescoed rooms, decorated with spectacular paintings by Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi, Sebastiano Ricci and Nicolò Bambini, or adorned with several of Venice’s most notable stuccoes, a sumptuous staircase, a jewel-like 18th century library and countless other riches. The rooms of Ca’ Sagredo, now converted into luxurious suites, are steeped in history. Famous guests who have stayed here include Galileo Galilei, who set his ‘Dialogo sui massimi sistemi’ (The Dialogue Concerning the Two Chief World Systems) here, and Emperor Leopold II who stayed here during the Regatta organized in his honour. A great way to soak up the atmosphere of this magnificent patrician dwelling is to attend one of the fabulous events organized by the hotel. From 14 to 28 September the hotel will be staging a performance of Shakespeare’s 'Othello', followed by a dinner inspired by the opera (events@casagredohotel.com, T: 041 2413111). www. casagredohotel.com. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

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Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. On weekdays, guided tours are reserved for groups and need to be booked in advance. Full price ticket €10. www.cini. it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop).

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm (last admission 1pm); Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm (last admission 6.15pm). Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop).

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Fondazione Prada

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm (last admission 1.30pm); Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm (last admission 6.30pm). Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. > The museum is included in the ‘Museums of St. Mark's Square’ itinerary: single ticket (19€) for Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. Open daily, from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-7pm (last admission 6pm); from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. www.polomuseale. venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or

Dating back to 1724, this historic palazzo was built on the ruins of the Gothic building where Caterina Corner, the future Queen of Cyprus, was born in 1454. In 2011, it was re-opened by Fondazione Prada which to-date, has hosted five temporary exhibitions at the venue. The renovations undertaken following acquisition by the Prada Group are still ongoing. Ca' Corner della Regina can

San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily, from 26 March to 31 October: 10am-7pm; from 1 November to 25 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. > The museum is included in the ‘Museums of St. Mark's Square’ itinerary: single ticket (19€) for Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is

The 'Bagnante' bronze sculpture by Max Klinger (1897) is part of the prestigious collection of CA’ PESARO.

be visited free-of-charge by groups of 6 people (min.) Bookings are required at least 7 days prior to visit) from 12-noon to 6pm on Fridays and on special occasions and feast days (see website). Booking/info: T: 02 56662611. www.fondazioneprada.org. Ca’ Corner della Regina, Santa Croce 2215 (Calle de Ca’ Corner). T: 041 8109161. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop or Rialto Mercato stop).

housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-6pm (last admission 5pm); from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076. T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto linea 2 (San Stae stop)

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Open daily, from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-6pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm). Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto. visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   61


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Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily, from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-6pm (last admission 5pm); from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop)

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo di Icone The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September) Museum, synagogues and cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop).

Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www.querinistampalia.it. Castello,

5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop).

Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Open 10.30am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale

Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Open from 1 June to 31 October: 10am-6pm (last admission 5pm); from 1 November to 31 May: 9am-5pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve. it. Santa Croce 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop).

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO The most important catholic church in Venice dates back to before the year 1000 and boasts a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marbles and other treasures. www.basilicasanmarco.it


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). 


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Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Until 15 November 2015, the second ‘piano nobile’, reserved for temporary exhibitions, will host a collection of 14 paintings by Ferrarese masters. Open daily from 8 April to 15 November: 11am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop).

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily, from 26 March to 31 October: 8.30am-7 pm; from 1 November to 25 March: 8.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. > The museum is included in the ‘Museums of St. Mark's Square’ itinerary: single ticket (19€) for Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop).

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

THE HEIRESS AND HER LOVE FOR ART The niece of Solomon R. Guggenheim, Peggy was born in New York in 1898 into a wealthy Jewish family. Following the death of her father on the Titanic in 1912, Peggy Guggenheim inherited a small fortune, becoming one of the richest women in America. She lived between Paris and London. She became a patron of the arts and a collector of contemporary art. Peggy was always surrounded by artists and lovers: she married the writer and Dadaist painter Laurence Vail and then Surrealist artist Max Ernst. After opening an art gallery in London and another in New York, in 1948 Peggy was invited to exhibit her collection of paintings at the Biennale of Venice. She fell in love with the city where she spent the rest of her life.

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

She died in 1979 and her ashes are buried in a corner of the garden of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni.

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museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an actionpacked calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: €20. www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Grassi San Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop).

Palazzo Grimani Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of its architecture, history and cultural and artistic offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum hosting a few select works, typifying the style of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day

accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop).

Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays and 25 December. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop).

Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Marciana The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the reading rooms and offices are located, it is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts.

> The museum is included in the ‘Museums of St. Mark's Square’ itinerary: single ticket (19€) for Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. Open daily, from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-7pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. www.marciana. venezia.sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).

Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a complex featuring several different architectural styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art like its superb double staircase (1498) right up to the final major architectural changes made in the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. Visit the website to check the days on which the museum is open to the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop).

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www. scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop).

Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower)

PALAZZO GRASSI Renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando with Punta della Dogana, it presents personnal and collective exhibitions sharing with the public the extraordinary Pinault Collection. www.palazzograssi.it

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The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th century and is one of Venice’s most famous architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can observe the complex mechanisms of this large astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, you emerge onto its terraces from which you can enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. Admission subject to reservation, with an expert tour guide. (T: 848 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www.torreorologio.visitmuve. it). Children under 6 not admitted. Tours in English: Mon-Wed 10am and 11am, Thurs-Sun 2pm and 3pm. Tours in French: Mon-Wed 2pm and 3pm, Thurs-Sun 10am and 11am. Closed 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).


z

Advertorial

Cruising on a real Galleon

A unique way to visit the lagoon of Venice, while savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical legacy. Built in 2001, to fulfil the dream of ship owner Andrea Longo, the “Galeone Veneziano” is a vessel inspired by ancient galleons, launched by the Serenissima Republic of Venice (15th-18th centuries).

Galeone Veneziano For any information: +39 0421 380006 info@jollyroger.it www.galeoneveneziano.it

Revisited with a contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the services of a modern ship: the “Galeone Veneziano” is a one-of-a-kind location for parties and a great way to amaze your travel companions. A unique location that can be hired for private events, business meetings and incentives, weddings and parties offering guests a special tour, with or without lunch or dinner, while sailing among the islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags and banners. Moreover, every Wednesday and Friday evening, you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 seats): charming candlelight dinner in the all-enfolding warmth of the wood décor of the galleon, while sailing in front of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo viewed from a unique, poetic perspective.

About the Galeone Veneziano – It can sail all year long as during the winter has a rigid covering and heating; in summer, in case of bad weather it has a protective covering. Equipped with wired audio system with microphones and accessible to the differently-abled. There are two galleons at disposal: each one has the maximum capacity of 146 passengers for private events, 84 seats in case of table service meal.

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OUT OF TOWN

Veneto, all the allure of the region Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii

Verona and the Adige river

Although the Arena attracts music loversaficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house (in via Cappello 23) with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony (an interesting fact: you can now get married on the balcony

where Romeo promised his undying love for Juliet), while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. For more information visit www. sposamiaverona.it). Before leaving the house of Shakespeare’s heroine, don’t forget to

AMIDST ROMANTICISM AND BIEN VIVRE Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates vistors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Above all, Verona is is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life, which is further heightened in summer by a one-ofa-kind stage, its ancient Arena (the second largest amphitheatre after Rome’s Colosseum, dating back to the 1st century B.C.). The venue hosts a rich calendar of events including opera, Aida is not to be missed, – classical, rock and pop concerts, as well as ballet featuring some of the world’s most famous stars. 66  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

Marostica

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LUGANO MENDRISIO

Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona

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NOVARA

MILANO Mantua

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Abano Montegrotto ?

Padua

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Palmanova

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?Venice

TRIESTE

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ALESSANDRIA TORINO

Treviso

FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA

BOLOGNA

RIMINI

MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA

MAR ADRIATICO

PISA

LIVORNO

FIRENZE ANCONA


CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page and on the right, aerial views of Verona, founded on the banks of the Adige some time in the 2nd century BCE. The city of the Arena (below) and of Romeo and Juliette, it is a World Heritage site. Many of the most famous Veneto villas are also protected by UNESCO: below, Villa Pisani in Stra.

touch the right breast of her statue. According to legend, this gesture brings good luck and helps you find true love. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on, and the crypt of what used to be the ancient monastery of San Francesco al Corso still houses the young Capulet’s tomb, for centuries, a pilgrimage for die-hard romantics. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. For more info visit www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km

Piazza delle Erbe, Verona

VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Located approximately thirty kilometers from Venice (see photo), it is probably the most famous of all Venetian villas. Built in 1721 and set within one of the most beautiful parks in Italy (renowned for its famous maze of love), its interiors are enhanced by numerous works of art, including the magnificent ceiling frescoed by Tiepolo. The villa, built in honour of the 114th Doge of Venice, Alvise Pisani, originally had 114 rooms and has hosted half of Europe’s ‘aristocracy’, who holidayed in the area, as well as numerous heads of state, including Napoleon, Mussolini and Hitler (their first meeting was held here in 1934). Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta.

Arena, Verona

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OUT OF TOWN | VENETO This nickname, according to legend, derives from the story of a noblewoman, Elisabetta Dolfin, who was locked up here after allegedly being unfaithful to her husband. It was designed by the famous Renaissance architect, and is currently a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its linear, classical façade conceals frescoed rooms and luxurious interiors that are further enhanced in the evening by flickering candlelight. At the request of its owners, the villa is still without electricity. Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex, is also found in the vicinity of Mira. In addition to the rococo-style manor house, it has a boathouse, a small chapel, a courtyard, a greenhouse and a large garden enhanced by a lake. While in Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni, famous for having hosted the famous ‘King’s dinner’, organized by Federico, the owner of the time, for the future king of France, at which 22 courses were served. The two marble lions from which the villa takes its name were actually an 18th century addition. The eyes of the original lions were set with precious stones, which sadly were stolen by Napoleon in 1807. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei, who lived there during the 17th century, and who was buried in the adjoining oratory. For further information visit www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com

Chioggia

Vicenza

CHIOGGIA Also known as ‘little Venice’, thanks to its scenic canals, which are the focus of its urban layout, Chioggia is perched on the Southern tip of Venice’s Lagoon. With its colourful houses, set closely together and intermittently interspersed with majestic churches and austere, aristocratic palazzi, Chioggia has maintained all the distinctive features of a fishing village. The most ancient part, a maze consisting of labyrinthine alleys and canals spread across a handful of islets resembles a docked ship, and is only connected to the mainland by a few streets, one of which leads to the long beach of Sottomarina, a perfect spot to enjoy a relaxing break. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 55 km by car or 1.30 hour (battello line19) VICENZA Vicenza, the birthplace of famous Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, boasts the largest 68  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

number of UNESCO World Heritage sites. The town alone, features thirty nine, including palaces, villas and churches, with an additional 16 villas in the province, bringing the total to forty seven. The heart of Vicenza is the majestic Palladian Basilica, renovated in 2012 and surrounded by magnificent aristocratic palaces including the Loggia del Capitaniato, the neoclassical Palazzo Chiericati and Casa Pigafeta, with its elaborate Gothic decorations. Just outside the historic centre, three villas designed by Palladio are also worth visiting: the Rotonda, Villa Gazzotti Grimani and Villa Trissino. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 75 km

PADUA Padua lays claim to three thousand years of history, all of which are visible in its urban fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel . No trip to Padua is complete without taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz'. cocktail.

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km


Advertorial

Vicenza, the treasures of Gallerie d’Italia

Gallerie d’Italia Palazzo Leoni Montanari Vicenza, Contra’ Santa Corona, 25 T: 800 578875 75 kilometres from Venice informazioni@palazzomontanari.com www.gallerieditalia.com Ancient pottery from Attica and Magna Grecia, 18th century Venetian art and Russian icons: the treasures housed at Palazzo Leoni Montanari in Vicenza, a magnificent art city located just one hour from Venice, are truly breathtaking. The only Baroque residence in Vicenza, the ‘palazzo’, with its opulent decorations, is per se an attraction worth visiting. The pieces displayed, including a collection of ancient pottery, 34 important paintings from the Venetian School and 140 precious examples of Russian icons from the Medieval age to the present time, offer visitors an insightful view into the past. The museum was established to host and introduce the public to the art collection owned by the Intesa Sanpaolo Group, one of Italy’s foremost credit institutes. They are a part of the Gallerie d’Italia circuit whose members include Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano in Naples and Le Gallerie di Piazza Scala in Milan. Bellini launches in September – Starting from 29 September, to mark the 500th anniversary of the artist’s death, Gallerie d’Italia will exhibit a masterpiece by Renaissance genius Giovanni Bellini. The work, entitled The Transfiguration of Christ is closely associated with Vicenza on account of originally having been painted for the Fioccardo Chapel of Vicenza’s Duomo.

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OUT OF TOWN

Padua

Marostica

MAROSTICA

MANTUA

This is the place where love meets chess. Standing in the middle of its main square is a huge marble chessboard where every second weekend of September a spectacular chess game is played by people dressed up in costumes, the re-enactment of a historical event dating back to 1454, when two knights who loved the same lady, decided to compete for her in a noble game of chess rather than engaging in a traditional duel. The winner married the girl… while the loser married her sister! Because the lady was secretly in love with the winning knight, she expressed her joy by illuminating the town’s castle, which still dominates the town from the top of a hill. The castle is now a romantic restaurant. DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 95 km

“A city shaped like a Palazzo”: this delightful description given by academic and diplomat Baldassarre Castiglioni perfectly renders the idea of the charms and treasures offered by Mantua. Small and well designed, the city is, first and foremost, an original mixture of history and art. Originally an Etruscan settlement, it achieved its full splendour in Medieval times and, in particular, during the reign of the Gonzaga family, the Dukes of Mantua who conquered the city in 1328 and ruled benevolently until 1707. Important monuments including Palazzo Ducale, Palazzo del Podestà, Palazzo della Ragione and the churches of San Lorenzo (the "Rotonda") and S.Maria del Gradaro also date back to this period. The city is the Italian Capital of Culture 2016. DISTANCE FROM VENICE : 155 km

WHAT'S ON MUSIC Andrea Bocelli in Marostica > 14 September A concert featuring the Veneta Regional Philharmonic Orchestra. Conductor, Marcello Rota. www.andreabocelli.com Marostica, Piazza Castello (9pm)

EXHIBITIONS Glass, the art of glass today > until 11 September An exhibition of glassworks, created by famous Italian and international artists, set against the backdrop of a magnificent Renaissance villa owned by FAI, the National Italian Trust. www.visitfai.it/villadeivescovi Villa dei Vescovi (Torreglia), 30 min. from Padua

ENTERTAINMENT The Human Chess Game in Marostica > 8-11 September An historic re-enactment of a chess match with living pawns. www.marosticascacchi.it Marostica, Piazza Castello

Mantua

Mercatino di Montegrotto > Every second Sunday of the month, for lovers of bric-à-brac and objet d'art. Other markets in the area include: Teolo, every first Sunday of the month; Abano, every third Saturday; Este every third Sunday; Conselve, every last Sunday of the month. MONTEGROTTO TERME Piazza Primo Maggio, 3 www.montegrotto-terme.virgilio.it/eventi w w w.wh e re -ve n i ce. com   71


OUT OF TOWN | ABANO-MONTEGROTTO

Euganei Hills

A unique blend of nature, art and wellness Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, in addition to one of the most beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town. At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua, you can admire an authentic Italian Baroque parks, the Garden of Valsanzibio. It has gained international recognition: published in leading art and botany books, it was named the most beautiful garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was used as the setting for the Merchant of Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In 2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network, chose it for a program that was aired live and, in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel, dedicated an installment of the program ‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting it from among twenty of Europe’s most important historical gardens. Each year, the garden is a highly sought-after destination for international tourists.

THE MAJESTIC PARK, THE STAR OF THE SHOW The villa, which was used as a residence prior to the design of its monumental garden, complements the majestic park. In fact, it is the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main feature. The garden was built during the second half of the 17th century by Venetian nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio.

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It was, the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the religious symbolism of the project designed by leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of perfection that leads man from Error to Truth, from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or Portal of Diana was not the only main access route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the 12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing gateway represented the beginning of the Road to Salvation, ending in the open space that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also known as the Fountain of Ecstasy.

A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian stone. There are also other minor sculptures that blend harmoniously with the architecture, streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features and fish pools that are scattered amidst numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the complex itself, important highlights along the Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,

WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its monumental garden is located in an area steeped in nature and history, the ideal destination for art lovers and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to the thermal waters of Abano and Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after destination for those in search of relaxing, wellness retreats


OUT OF TOWN Advertorial

Garden of Villa Barbarigo

visitors could access the Portal of Diana – socalled because of the goddess of hunting who stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today, Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio (from which the garden takes its name) to reach the landing stage in front of the garden.

AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden boasts a number of fully operative water features and is currently one of the largest, best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit for the preservation of this beautifully tended

garden is owed to the loving care bestowed upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel family and the Counts of Martinengo during the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle Rose during the early 20th century. The villa and it gardens have been the property of the Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners of the estate for three generations, the PizzoniArdemani family not only repaired the damage caused by military occupation and the forced abandonment of the villa during World War II, but also recently renovated all of the garden’s 33 water features, damaged by eighty years of gradual ground-water depletion. www.valsanzibiogiardino.it info@valsanzibiogiardino.it

The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’. When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing. To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website.

Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo

WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST ! For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian Thermal Water” line, thermal spring water is combined with two anti-ageing properties: hyaluronic acid which helps to restore skin elasticity, and natural antioxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from the effects of ageing. This line is a result of the combination of thermal water drawn from four springs in the Veneto region, mixed to obtain different concentrations based on their specific salinity: water from the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based ‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate, calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating from deep underground springs); the low mineral content water from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’ in Crespano (home to the spring named for Empress Sissi ); and finally, the water of the ‘Terme Euganee’ (which flows through the municipalities of Abano, Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and Galzignano at a temperature of 87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’ can be purchased online at www.aquaehotels.it or from the best hotels and sales points in the area. Ask your concierge.

B E N E S S E R E

S T I L E

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www.aquaehotels.it

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as 74  W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 016

a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre. Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used

by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

all pharmacies.

Airports

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca and Frecciargento: • Milan 2h 23min • Turin 4h 08min • Rome 3h 24 min • Naples 4h 53min. The Santa Lucia Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines: e.g. to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one

pass that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en)

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom-made according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin').

Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

PHOTOS © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

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ESSENTIALS Special City Tours

MUSEUM PASS

. Just one ticket for 11 museums > The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > The ticket is valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Museo di Storia Naturale. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

Ca' Rezzonico

CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ON-HOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: (adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the Sightseeing Experience free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free Sightseeing Experience App, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia, in front of platforms 13 and 14 and it very close to Stop n.1): any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Museo Correr

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry). You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest

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that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it

piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge.

Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice.

Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo,


ESSENTIALS

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PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

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People Mover Venezia

TRONCHETTO

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San Simeon Piccolo

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People Mover Venezia

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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2016. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org

N

AG SP

DI

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I

San Leonardo

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

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San Geremia

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Parco "Villa Groggia"

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AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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ROSINA DELLA STRADA

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Chiesa di San Martino

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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

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Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

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Basilica di San Pietro di Castello

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CALLE DEL DOSE

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Japan Pavilion

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Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

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Russia Pavilion

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Le Zitelle

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Sant'Eufemia

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United States Pavilion

AL

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PALUDO CALLE

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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

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BO

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DONZELLA C.

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BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

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C. DE LA MADONETA

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APOSTOLI

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PISTOR

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CALLE

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STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO SALIZADA

BOMBASEI

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CALLE

MERCERIA

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LE DE

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LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

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ALBANESI CALLE DEL

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DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

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della

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CALLE

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MISERICORDIA FOND.

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CALLE

I S ET

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

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I CASE

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FONDAMENTA

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DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

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CONVERTITE

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ETTI,

LA

VECCHIA

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SANTA

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CARMINATI

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LA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

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L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

DE

DE

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CALLE

SECONDO

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DEL

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FONDAMENTA

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CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

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CALLE

CALLE

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MUNEGHE

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GIUSTINIAN

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DE

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CALLE

CALLE

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CALLE

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CALLE

CALLE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE FRIZIER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

FOND

DE LA

C. LOREDANA

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

E N TA

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CALLE

SANGIANTOFFETTI

VIDA

CROSERA

EREMITE

LA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DAM

DEI

DE

CASTELLO

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FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CATECUMENI

RIO

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

RIO TERRÀ

Giardino delle Vergini Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

RI

San Gregorio

CALLE DEL BASTION

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

DI

DEI CORTELLOTTI

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

PIETRO

NANI

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

SAN

CALLE

L’ANZOLO

PISCINA

DE

RUGA VECCHIA

FOSCARINI

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DE

MARTIN

L’ARCO

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ONI

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Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

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San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

VENIER

DE

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora S C H I AV

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

SEBASTIANO

CELESTIA

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

FONDAMENTA

ANTONIN

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

BRAGADIN

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

BASTION

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TERRÀ

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SCUDI

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

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CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

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CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

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S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE DELLE GATE CALLE DEI FURLANI

VONI

100 m

SAN

ND

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CALLE TERAZZERA

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

FONDAMENTA

FO

SAN

SALIZADA

CORTE SACCA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

DEL

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

DEGLI

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

DEL

PISCINA

VERONA

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

O

SCHIAVONI RIVA

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

VENIER FONDAMENTA

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

CERERIA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

ZORZI SALIZADA

DE LE

FABBRI

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

RC

CALLE

LA

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

R I VA

A N M

SALIZADA

PORTO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DE

LATERANO

SAN

C.

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

SA

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

a

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO

SAN

CALLE

RC

FONDAMENTA

SAN

DEL

DIREZIONE

BARBARIA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco MA

SAN

Museo Correr

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

San

Marittim

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

Rio

LARGA

Santa Maria del Pianto

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

CALLE

BEMBO

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

RIO

CALLE

MAGAZZINI

DEI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

C.

AI

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

G. GALLINA

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

C.

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

CALLE

DE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

SALIZADA

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

San Moisè

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

CAMPO SAN LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

CORTE BAROZZI

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

LE

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

LARGA

RIO

Teatro Malibran

C. DEL

SAN

C.DE

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

PISCINA

XXII MARZO

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SABION

MAGAZEN

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

ORESI

CALLE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

MADONA

Stazione

FABBRICHE

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

LE

CALLE

DOLERA

DEL CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

MICHIEL

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

RAMO

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

San Fantin

Casa di Marco Polo

FONTEGO

PIO

TEATRO

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CALLE ASSASSINI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CORTE SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego CALLE LARGA Dolfin Manin MAZZINI

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Luca

TEATRO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

DE

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

ZEN

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

SOTOPORTEGO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario

Zattere

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

CATERINA

CALLE

C.

DEL

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

Santi Apostoli

Chiesa Evangelica Luterana

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Palazzo Rava

S.Silvestro

DEL

DEL

CALLE

Santo Stefano

Canal Grande

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

VOLTI

RAVANO

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

S.ANDREA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

DEL

RUGHETA

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

NOVE

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

San Beneto CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CORTE

PONTE

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

DEL CALLE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

DE

San Vidal

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

Ca’ D’Oro

Ca na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd e

MUTI

Sant’Aponal

TRAGHETTO

zera

TRAPOLIN

LA

San Felice

CA’

BOTA

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

DIETRO

Abazia della Misericordia

IA

VENDRAMIN

DEL

LA

CARAMPANE

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

D

CALLE

Rio Nuovo

Bacino

R

CALLE

TABACCHI

Scomen

O

DONZELA

NUOVA

Canale

IC

CALLE

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Sant’Agnese

VAPORETTO

ER

CA'

DE DE

DE

al G

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

FALIER

FONDAMENTA

DEL

IS

DE

CALLE CALLE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Can SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

Palazzo Loredan

Ponte dell'Accademia

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

Gallerie dell'Accademia

LONGO

CALLE

M

FONDAMENTA

LA

CALLE

DE

TA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

CARROZZE

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

FOND.

EN

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

L’AGNELLA

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CA’

LEZZE

LE

San Samuele

CALLE

ZATTERE AL

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna

DEI

DE

SCALETER

CALLE

CORTE

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

D

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

DEL

Palazzo Mocenigo

RAMO

Ca' Rezzonico

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE CHIESA

N

S.Stae

San Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

DE

C.

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi

CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

DELLA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

MORI

NA

La Maddalena

TRON

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

San Tomà

Palazzo Balbi

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

SAN

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

San Barnaba

NA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Maria Mater Domini

Palazzo Grioni C.

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

L’ASEO

Accademia

DE OGNISANTI

CA

DE

PAPADOPOLI

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

LE

ALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

CALLE

NIE

DD

MORETTI

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

TINTORETTO

DEI

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

.DA

MA

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

SAN

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

DE

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

CALLE

CALLE

San Pantalon

FOMO

LA

SAN BOLDO

CALLE

RIO

San Rocco

Muneghete

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

S. Basilio

100 m

C.

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

À D E

Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

TINTOR

LA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

NUOVO

FO de Servi N

TER

S.Marcuola

DE

DE LA VIDA

San Giacomo dall'Orio

DEL

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Santa Maria dei Carmini

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

RAMO

Rio

CALLE

Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

della

Rio

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

San Zan Degola

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

RUGA BELA

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

BESAGIO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

LARGA

PONTE SALIZADA SAN

Palazzo Gidoni

RIO

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

San Sebastiano

IA

VECCHIO

CALLE LUNA

SALIZADA

del

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RD

R

San Marcuola

DEL REMER

I CALLE ORSETT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

LA

DEI AMAI

San Nicola da Tolentino

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

LARDONI

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

GARZOTTI FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DE CAMPO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

Angelo Raffaele

CALLE

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI ER

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

LA

PROCURATIE

CERERI

DE L’OGIO

MIS

RIO

CAMPIELLO

BIASIO

DI

BARI LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

FONDAMENTA

Soranzo Cappello

CORTE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

DEI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

TA

E DEL PISTO

STRADA

DE

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

EN

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DEI

MADONA

AM

CALL

NUOVE

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

FONDAMENTA

LA

ND

I

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

Ponte degli Scalzi

Ferrovia

CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

DE

LER

San Leonardo

San Geremia SPAGNA

DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

SCALZI DEI

Sant'Andrea SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAVALLETTI

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

SE

FO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico

CAL

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

EN

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO

AM

San Girolamo

SE

TRONCHETTO

MERCATO

ND

INE

SAVORGNAN

Palazzo Labia Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE DEI FUSERI

ZZ

FONDAMENTA

A E M

CALLE

DEL

DIREZIONE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAPITELO

CASE

PU

LL

NOVA

TRONCHETTO

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

DEL

CA

CA

ISOLA

People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa FO

LE

O

PIAVE

DE

AM

CALLE

TA

OL

LARG

EN

DEL SABION

BECCARIE

AM

N G IR

Palazzo Nani

FONDAMENTA

LE

ND

SA

C.

TA

LLO

FONDAMENTA

FO

EN

TE

Parco Savorgnan

CALLE

AM

B AT

D’ORO

ND

TA

DEL

EN

CALLE

AM

MATTIA

FORNER

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

SAN

DEL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

della

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

CAMPO SAFFA

L’ARCO

CALLE

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

DE

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

SAN

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

VECCHIA

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

Parco "Villa Groggia"

Monastero Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

RUGA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

B

BRAGADIN

LI

PISCINA

LA

FONDAMENTA

EL

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

INCURABILI

LE

CALLE

A

CALLE ZUCCHERO

VI

C A

FR

AN

VI

A

C

ES

S. Servolo

RI

VI

A

SA

N

N TA

MA

P

O

N

M

IA

EL

AB

ET

TA

VI

A

IS

A

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AR

A

S

M

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N

M

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FO

C

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D

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O

D

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IN

VI

VIC

PA

OL

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OL

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FR

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C

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D

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VI

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NU

O

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R

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EG

VIA

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BR

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GA

SA

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BE

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MIC

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DOL

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V I A L E PA N T O

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ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

GL

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VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

VI

A

FA

SA

MA

ND

RO

GE

GO

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GR

DO

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VIA

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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

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SAN SERVOLO

LU

SAN MICHELE

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

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VI

IP

R

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VI

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DE

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SP

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M

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IN

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A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

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NI

A

IS

NA

A

D

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LM

A

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A

AR

M

M

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LO

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VIA

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ND

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SANDRO

LU

NG

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AR

O SE LV

PO

VI

VIA

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

CO

GALLIPOLI

VIA

JA

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

TR

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

LU

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

A

M

O

RO

SI

N

I

N

I

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

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Hotel Excelsior Venice

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LU

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DR

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S. Antonio Di Padova

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ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

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NI

PIVIDOR

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LL

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EN

TA

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GIUSTINA

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San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

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TTO

C.

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GN

A

Sant'Elena

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PA

see pages 4-5

S. Servolo

INO

LA

CH

EL

LE

AR

ERA

ENA

H

GEN

ENA

G

LE

T'EL ENTA SAN

CAL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

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NO

IA

F

TI

ER

SO

BO

ND

CAR

SA

FO

E

A

NT

LL

O

DE

M

E

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LO

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C. D EL

I

IO

GE

CA

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

C

PIZ

RO

AN

UE

EL

SQ

LI

ON

OS

AN

BB

E

Japan Pavilion

LL

E

CA

LL

CA

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI  CANAL GRANDE  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO  TEATRO LA FENICE  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO  PALAZZO DUCALE  THE GHETTO  PONTE DI RIALTO  THE ISLANDS 

CH

E

GR

LL

MI

LL

MO

Top in Town

Teatro Verde

LL E

CA

S MA

E

L

CA

RA

MAGGIORE

E

LL

CA

LE

SAN GIORGIO

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MA

RD

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DI

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United States Pavilion

XXIV M AGG

E VIAL E PIAV

Russia Pavilion

VIALE CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

AM FO ND

I

N

LO

E

EL

PO

N

CC A

A

EN

AL

PI

M CA

N

LA E PO

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LL

AM

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Le Zitelle

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AL

ION

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FO

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BB O

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O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

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Giardini

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TA

LE

C.

NA

RI

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MA

DE

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RE

O

EL CA LL

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CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

AL

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALL

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CALLE CORERA

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TI

IB PE GAR

AR

IAN

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E

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I S E

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

DE

VIALE

NA

PO E COP

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CALL

CALL

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I

C

SANT'ANNA

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GELO CALLE DELL’AN

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LE

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San Francesco di Paola

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DELFINA CALLE

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PRET E DEI

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VAL

RI

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IUS VIA G

CAL

IN

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CA

LA TANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

MARA

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DI

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TR

CAM PO

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VID A

CA LL

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EN TA

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AMEN

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello

A STR ETA

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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

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PES CAR IA

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ION

oise

100 m

ARS

CALL

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RTIRI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

E N TA

N

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SA

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ini

HIA RUGA VECC

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San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

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Rio de San Gerola

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San Giovanni Battista in Bragora CAL S C H I AV

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E LL CA

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Verg

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RIN ST PE

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R I VA D EGLI

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E DE LL CA

de le

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

VONI

NATER PIG

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San Zaccaria

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4

Giardino delle Vergini Rio

EMB

am Fond delle

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

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L’AN ZO LO

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Nuo

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CO L’AR

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O

I MA

Ca' Giustinian

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enta

CALLE ZORZI

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LL E

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DEL TE DEUM

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CALL

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CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI

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N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

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LE CAL

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CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

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CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

Santa Maria della Pietà

VE

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CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

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San Giovanni di Malta

SALIZAD A SAN

CA

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LE

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San Giorgio dei Greci

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DEL

TA

E’

l Palaz

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EN

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Palazzo Ducale

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RI BB FA

AM

7 2

O

San Francesco della Vigna

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ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

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SAN

ZZA

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CALLE ERIZZO

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LE CAL

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Basilica di San Marco

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San Lorenzo

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ad

GA SAN

CO

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CAL

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lv

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GA RU

Sa

CAL

LE SAN

CORTE NOVA

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IO ED M L RE DE

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

CALLE

FON

CAL

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

n

LE CAL

LO EL PP CA

E DE LL CA

CORTE NUOVA

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NI LO EI BA C.D

CA AN E BI LL CA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

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DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

BI

LE DE CAL

IA ER EL SS CA

Sa

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

ST

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San Giuliano

INA

DE

L IO

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CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

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N

O AT USS M

DE LE BAN

FRUTARIOLI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

an Moisè

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

A

R io

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LE CAL

S

LICINI

A

CORTE

RUBBI

D

SAL VAD OR

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

OL

E

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

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CORTE

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LL

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

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LIO

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

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CA

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CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

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AD A

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

DE LA FAVA

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DE

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San Salvador

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MB

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A

CORTE AN SALVADOR

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EN

CALL

IE

GIA

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X

CORTE DEL SABION

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ST

CA LLE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

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ARTIN

DEL CO O

C.M

O

S

MAZ ZINI

BARB ARIA

LE COC

PIO

TEG

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

SE

Casa di Marco Polo

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Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

DE LE ERBE

CAL

SA LIZZ AD A

FON

De

NA

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CA

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3

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Fontego dei Tedeschi

e lto

i M e

nd G. GA LLI

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LI

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Santa Maria del Pianto

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TEL

O

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LE CAS

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LE MUR

CAL

TA

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AN A

CAL

I

EN

IERA

Santa Maria dei Miracoli OL

GA

BR ESS

AC

AM

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

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CA

LL

IR

D

LE

FO

UO

LAR

I

CA LLE

DE

IM

E

DE

CA LLE GA BR IEL

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San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

CAL

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FO

RIO

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DE

DR IO CA LLE LE SC

CA LLE

NO

EN

FO

CORTE NOVA

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RL

LL CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

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AN

TE

CA

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LA

M

EN

BE

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ID

E

CA LL

W

AM

LL

E

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CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

ND

RI

CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO

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S.G. GRISOS TOMO

TE

C ALL E

CA

A SAN

CAN ZIAN

San Giovanni Grisostomo

mo o

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CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

S.Canciano

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

METO

DE

E

CAL LE

BA N DI

RIO TER RÀ

AR

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

NN

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

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Santi Apostoli

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RAMO

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LI

R

APO STO

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CA

CAL

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LL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

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lc e

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Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

7

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