Where Turin n 34 July 2021

TURIN CITY GUIDE ®

JULY 2021

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ TURIN

ALL YOU CAN DO Welcome to the vibrant IN heart of the city that has

Turin

marked Italian history

Palazzo Madama overlooking Piazza Castello.

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

DISCOVER

ENJOY

CITY GUIDE www.whereitalia.com

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

Turin

July 2021

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Information and tips to experience the best that Turin has to offer.

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Want an aperitivo or after-dinner drink at an exceptional location?

You’ll find both at Smile Tree in Turin.

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This month’s round-up of art exhibitions in Turin.

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the tourism sector is in great difficulties all over the world. We must therefore thank you who are reading us now because you are nonetheless the hope of recovery as the world slowly overcomes the pandemic. We Italians have experienced all manner of crises and we have always overcome them by trying not to lose that smile of welcome that we once again give you today.

Whether you are our guest due to work, to pleasure or, simply, you have come upon these LE VALLE T TE words via the Internet, the word is always “benvenuto, welcome”, either today or in a few months.

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Dear friends and readers,

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Università Chiesa di Santa Pelagia degli Studi di Torino

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH

where Turin ®

RINASCENTE A point of reference for shopping in the city, the store in a building located in the central via Lagrange offers new aesthetics and new spaces for a unique shopping experience. The -1 Floor is dedicated to homeware, design and food, while the second, third and fourth boast contemporary fashion and classic style. The Ground Floor hosts a new area devoted to accessories, jewelley and sunglasses, a Beauty Hall, and the Temakinho restaurant, where you can sample JapaneseBrazilian cuisine. www.rinascente.it

M A G A Z I N E

www.whereitalia.com/turin PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.whereitalia.com/turin PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com GREEN PEA The first green retail park in the world, next to Eataly at Lingotto, is dedicated to the theme of respect. 15,000 sq.m. on 5 floors where sustainable products are created in harmony with Earth, Air, Water and People, in line with the principles of beauty and originality of Made in Italy. A futuristic structure and a place to make eco-sustainable and respectful purchases and consumption possible. From Turin to the world. www.greenpea.com

NEW OPENING

CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 COO

LA VIA DEL TÈ In the shadow of the Mole has been synonymous with premium-quality teas, fruit infusions and it blends permeated with the aromas of far-off lands, for more than 50 years. The store revolves around an old-world “aromateque”, where glass jars containing a variety of teas from all over the world allow customers to select the infusion that best suits them. Here, you can choose from among over 250 products from China and Japan, India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Africa. www.laviadelte.it

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com ADMINISTRATION

amministrazione@proedi.it PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

SAN CARLO DAL 1973 The new oasis in the centre of Turin, it acts a bridge between Piazza San Carlo and via Lagrange. The ground floor is dedicated to perfumes, essences and accessories.

On the first floor, apparel, homeware and hand-crafted Japanese items combine to give life to an unconventional shopping experience. On the second floor, a terrace with a bar welcomes customers wanting to indulge in a relaxing break. www.sancarlodal1973.com

>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.whereitalia.com 2 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS IL MAGAZINE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI TORINO THE MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE IN TURIN’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS turin.whereitalia.com/distribution

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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In

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2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which

now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4 PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and w w w.wh e re ita l i a . com 3

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a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729).

5 VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714.

Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 4 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is

by Umberto Mastroianni. 7 VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I

bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano

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in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10 MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home

matches have been played here since 2011.

An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium.

12 BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13 REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th

century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re ita l i a . com 5

WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

6 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

LA VENARIA REALE

Majestic Residence Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di − Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. This grandiose estate lying on the outskirts of Turin comprises 80,000 square metres of buildings − which combine to make up the Reggia and 60 hectares of Gardens, a masterpiece of architecture and landscaping, included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997.

This monumental building boasts several of the highest expressions of universal Baroque: the − enchanting Hall of Diana designed by Amedeo di Castellamonte, the breathtaking Great Gallery and the solemn Chapel of Saint Hubert, the grandiose complex of the Juvarra Stables, designed by Filippo Juvarra in the 18th century, ornate decorations and the spectacular Fountain of the Stag in the Court of Honour. These provide a unique setting for the Theatre of History and Magnificence, the permanent display devoted to the House of Savoy, that runs from the basement level to the piano nobile of the Reggia.

Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and − Piedmont, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels.

On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, − discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it/en

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

DISCOVER AND ENJOY Permanent and temporary exhibitions in Turin are gradually returning to welcome visitors after a long season of closure: an opportunity to return to museums, symbolic places of the country's culture.

UNTIL 31 DECEMBER

MARISA AND MARIO MERZ. TOGETHER

A new exhibition project presents in a single path the work of Marisa and Mario Merz, two different but intimately linked modes of expression, an artistic dialogue through a reflection on the sense of time and space. Marisa dedicates herself to studying the structure of female faces through drawing, painting and sculpture; here her activity is intertwined with that of Mario, who on each occasion has reinvented his igloo through the use of ever different materials. The domestic dimension is no different from the museum: as in their home-studio, the visitor will be immersed in a continuous dialogue, discovering works that have never been seen before.

MARISA E MARIO MERZ. La punta della matita può eseguire un sorpasso di coscienza.

Fondazione Merz, via Limone 24. www.fondazionemerz.org 8 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

PHOTOS RENATO GHIAZZA. COURTESY FONDAZIONE MERZ

PHOTOS © PETER LINDBERGH

UNTIL 1 NOVEMBER ► DEDICATED TO THE GREEN

The purpose of the exhibition held in the majestic Citroniera of the Juvarra Stables (once a shelter for the citrus plants of the Gardens) is to document interest and passion for love, sensitivity for Nature and passion for uncontaminated landscapes of numerous artists of the past, from preRomantic painters of the late eighteenth century to contemporary masters. Over 200 works including paintings, photographs, videos and installations from important Italian museums and private collections are the protagonists of this event dedicated to the “green” theme.

INFINITE BEAUTY. Landscape and Environment in Italy from Romantic painting to contemporary art.

Juvarra’s Citroniera (Giardini della Reggia).

La Venaria Reale. www.lavenaria.it

UNTIL 13 AUGUST ► PETER LINDBERGH’S FINAL ACT

A great tribute to German photographer Peter Lindbergh who passed away in September 2019: the project was devised and curated by him personally.

He spent two years working on an uncompromising collection of 140 photographs that offer a deep insight into his extensive oeuvre, spanning from the early 1980’s to the present day.“ The exhibition allowed me to reconsider my images in a non-fashion context. The presentation aims to open the photographs to different interpretations and perspectives”, stressed Lindbergh.

The show inaugurates a cycle of international exhibitions that will bring great art figures to Turin.

PETER LINDBERGH: Untold Stories ARTiglieria Con/temporary Art Center Via Verdi, 5. artiglieria.art - paratissima.it

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WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Diego Perrone

Francesco Barocco

UNTIL 3 OCTOBER ◄ ART AND

CONTRADICTION

Flavio Favelli

Luca Bertolo

Riccardo Baruzzi

It is neither a theme nor a language that unites the five Italian artists in this exhibition: Francesco Barocco, Riccardo Baruzzi, Luca Bertolo, Flavio Favelli and Diego Perrone. Rather, it is the presence of a space of possibility within their works, made by at least two elements that cannot be reconciled with one another and are bound together through ambiguity which at times becomes a relationship of contradiction. The emotional strength of their work, despite the considerable differences in their practice, seems to derive from the vibration of that space created between the elements which cannot fully overlap, but which keep sliding one upon the other.

ON THE PRINCIPLE OF CONTRADICTION GAM Torino. Via Magenta, 31 www.gamtorino.it © PHOTOS: GIORGIO PEROTTINO

UNTIL 26 SEPTEMBER ► STREET ART ON SHOW The works of Blu, Banksy, 3D (Robert del Naja) and the best exponents of this form of expression will inhabit the Teatro Colosseo, from the foyer to the auditorium, making a spectacular experience of multidisciplinary knowledge among the contemporary arts. 150 works by 36 artists: originals, prints, serigraphs, LP covers that have made music and art history, street signs and even a banknote. Naturally, the star of the exhibition, thanks to the forty works on display, is Banksy, the Bristol artist who has made his mark as one of the greatest examples of contemporary “political art”.

STREET ART IN BLU 3 Teatro Colosseo. Via Madama Cristina, 71. www.teatrocolosseo.it

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PH © ANDREA ROSSETTI

PH © ANDREA ROSSETTI

UNTIL 25 JULY

A WORLD OF SHAPES AND COLOURS ►

A new site specific installation has been developed for the former industrial spaces of OGROfficine Grandi Riparazioni by the American artist Jessica Stockholder. This is an opportunity for the public to admire, in complete safety and free of charge, a few works from the Collection of Contemporary Art “la Caixa” of Barcelona and a treasure preserved by the city’s museums (GAM-Gallery of Modern Art and Castello di Rivoli, Museum of Contemporary Art). The artist developed a concept that is both rigorous and poetic, as she said: “I was struck by the many works in which the circle and square intersect” and “I began to think of the representation of the human body as a kind of circle within the square, as in Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man.”

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE

© LOPRESTO

RE OPENING

Cut a rug a round square by Jessica Stockholder OGR Cult – OGR Officine Grandi Riparazioni Corso Castelfidardo, 22. www.ogrtorino.it

Many novelties and events are scheduled at the museum, such as the exhibition “The shape of the future”, dedicated to 90 years (+1) of Carrozzeria Pininfarina (which opens on Thursday 20), and the presentation - on Thursday 13 - of the Fulminea supercar by Automobili Estrema. Until 20 May, special exhibition of the 1977 Lamborghini Countach LP 400 Periscopica, designed by Marcello Gandini and the Abarth 1000 Record Pininfarina (see photo), a car that in 1960 won 8 class records.

From 15 May to 6 June, special exhibition of Misano, the new concept vehicle designed by IED in collaboration with Suzuki.

MAUTO Museo dell’Automobile di Torino Corso Unità d’Italia, 40. www.mauto.com

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PHOTOS © WALTER NIEDERMAYR

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

29 JULY – 17 OCTOBER ▲ MAN AND LANDSCAPE

Alpine landscapes, architecture and public spaces in relation to private spaces: CAMERA-Centro Italiano per la Fotografia will host a solo exhibition of works created by the South Tyrolean photographer Walter Niedermayr over the last ten years of his career.

On display are around 50 large-format works, often presented in the form of diptychs or triptychs, which explore the theme of changes in space, both geographical and “social”.

The exhibition also includes two previously unpublished diptychs created on the building site of Palazzo Turinetti in Turin, which will become the fourth home of Intesa Sanpaolo’s Gallerie d'Italia.

WALTER NIEDERMAYR. Transformations CAMERA - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia. Via delle Rosine, 18. camera.to

ON THE TOP OF PIEDMONT

OUT OF TOWN

The Sacra di San Michele is an ancient abbey 40km from Turin, situated on the top of Mount Pirchiriano. Built between 983 and 987, it is a symbolic monument of the Piedmont Region and an evocative landmark that served as inspiration for Umberto Eco’s epic novel ‘The Name of the Rose’, a historical murder mystery written in 1980, but set in the year 1327. The sanctuary is at the midpoint of a pilgrimage route of over two thousand kilometres that connects a wide area of Western Europe from Mont Saint-Michel (France) to Monte Sant’Angelo (Italy).

Sacra di San Michele Via alla Sacra, 14 – Sant’Ambrogio di Torino (40km from Turin) www.sacradisanmichele.com

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COMING SOON

CONTEMPORARY ART FOR SALE

UNTIL 5 SEPTEMBER ▲ THE UNIVERSE OF LE CORBUSIER

The exhibition itinerary covers the entire third floor of the Pinacoteca Gianni e Marella Agnelli (an unmissable location in itself!) and traces Le Corbusier’s life, centred on his continuous search for ideas and inspiration. His life is illustrated in the exhibition through objects, drawings and photographs. The Franco-Swiss architect, father of the Modern Movement, collected stones, pieces of wood, shells, metal objects, glass and other materials as “objets à réaction poétique” (objects with a poetic reaction) able to trigger the creative process in him. One section is entirely dedicated to Le Corbusier’s travels, with particular attention to the three trips that he made to Turin: in 1902, at the age of sixteen, on the occasion of the Universal Exhibition at the Promotrice delle Belle Arti where the future architect had exhibited a clock; in 1934, when he was photographed in a Balilla car on the Lingotto rooftop track (see photo) and the last, in 1961, when he was invited by ICOM to give a speech on the theme of the ideal museum.

Artissima, Italy’s most important contemporary art fair, is one of the most eagerly awaited events on the international art scene. Thanks to the quality of its offerings and its focus on experimentation, the Turin fair is intended as a launch pad for emerging artists and galleries. This year’s event offers a hybrid formula, physical and digital, and launches the theme of “Counter-Time” as a transversal reflection, in reference to the history of art as a polyphony of voices in time and against time, linked in a unique and surprising symphony.

By collaborating with numerous public institutions, museums and galleries, during the fair days, Turin is transformed into a mega happening, with myriad, city-wide events.

5-7 NOVEMBER ARTISSIMA International Fair of Contemporary Art Oval – Lingotto Fiere, via Giacomo Matte Trucco, 70 www.artissima.art

PH © RENATO GUTTUSO

LE CORBUSIER. Travels, objects and collections Pinacoteca Gianni e Marella Agnelli Via Nizza, 230/103. www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it

UNTIL 12 SEPTEMBER ◄ ITALIAN ART BETWEEN THE WORLD WARS 25 years of history narrated by around 130 works from the museum’s collections and from some works found in the Galleria Sabauda. These two public collections revolve around a significant selection of 73 masterpieces from the rich private collection of a lawyer from Milan, Giuseppe Iannaccone. The show reunites the works of artists whose explorations developed individual and collective visions that went against the tide with respect to the Fascist culture policies of a “return to order” and 20th-century monumental classicism. The show is divided into 5 themed sections: Interiors, Figures, Allegories and Portraits, Still Lifes, Landscapes/Views.

A JOURNEY AGAINST THE TIDE. Italian Art 1920-1945 GAM | Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Via Magenta, 31. www.gamtorino.it

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WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER

The Royal Residences In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. B Y G I U L I A M I N E R O

Reggia di Venaria Reale 14 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, and is only 10km as the crow flies from

Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for long hunting expeditions in the company of members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi was often chosen by members of the Savoy household for celebrations and dynastic weddings.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum, and a space for events and concerts.

In addition to its original furnishings and paintings, the museum hosts several masterpieces of cabinetry.

The lodge’s beautifully manicured French gardens and internal spaces are open for public viewing, while its historic park, a part of the hunting reserve, is closed to the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI Established as a military fortress in 1247, the Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the Savoy duchy.

During the 17th century, it was converted

Reggia di Venaria Reale Chapel of Saint Hubert

© PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Its present-day appearance is the result of work by several prominent architects of

the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo Juvarra, who designed many of its most beautiful and widely photographed spaces, including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host exhibitions and events.

Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it

© CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

T

he royal residences are easily accessible by bus or car from Turin, and are among some of the bestpreserved examples of 17th and 18th century European architecture. They are a living testimony to the prestige of the local monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in Town), the favourite city-based residences of duchesses and princesses, and the fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting lodges and country residences, embellished with gardens that reflect the sophistication of courtly life.

© MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

© CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged with the addition of a wing known as the Manica Lunga, with the ducal picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are now the headquarters of a Museum of Contemporary Art, which also hosts temporary exhibitions.

The courtyard of the castle is also home to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorious views across the countryside as well as the surrounding castle. www.castellodirivoli.org

Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga)

© OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Top destinations around Piedmont

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy of world-class cuisine and marvelous landscapes. All of these things have earned the areas of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato UNESCO World Heritage status, resulting in an elite tourist destination.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

16 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

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his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding the wine-growing regions of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato to its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, of a social context, and a rural economy based on viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.”

This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ which is symbolic, because man has managed to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics that it boasts today.

In this area, the vineyards of several of the world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display of changing colours and softly rolling hills.

Although geographically the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, they all have different morphologies, and cultural characteristics. The region’s varied landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive array of local specialties: from superlative wine, to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be accessed by car (several of the larger centres can also be reached by train). Other options include one of the many organized wine and tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge.

THE LANGHE The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro River and Liguria, between the provinces of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy among the area’s many tourist attractions

Grinzane Cavour castle and village © STEVANZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

are its numerous castles, including that of Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century and currently home to the headquarters of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other mustsees include the Castle of Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives its name to the most famous Italian red wine and is thought to date back to mediaeval times.

The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine museum that takes visitors on an immersive journey through the history of viticulture via light, film and installations. The museum is set over three floors of the village’s stunning medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it).

After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of La Morra, better known as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it).

In addition to other specialties, the area is renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ status and used to make various sweet treats. If you want to purchase these tantalizing specialties and see how they’re made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www.giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval history and architecture is a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www. castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up to the castle, take a break and treat yourself

to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido restaurant located in the nature reserve of Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it).

MONFERRATO Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor activities, Monferrato is renowned for its gastronomic specialties.

Nature, culture, art and religion combine in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 17

the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. For some years now, the museum has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath houses and cellars that, in some instances, are real underground tunnels.

These works of arts, carved and modeled by artists, were either used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www. ecomuseopietracantoni.it). Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good selection of whites, including Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www. enotecadelmonferrato.it).

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy.

The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal residences of the House of Savoy (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Monticello is one of the most imposing and best-preserved medieval buildings in the area owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it).

Experience what it feels like to be a prince or princess for one night and stay at the Castle of Guarene, an important stopover on the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain (www.castellodiguarene.com).

For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www. salsicciadibra.it).

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Serralunga d’Alba castle

© MIKEDOTTA | DREAMSTIME.COM

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Museo Enologico Toso Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the architectural complex of the Agenzia di Pollenzo is well worth your time.

Built in 1833, it now hosts the first University of Gastronomic Sciences in the world.

This university was founded and promoted by the international Slow Food association, which studies, protects and disseminates the agricultural and enogastromic traditions of countries worldwide (www. agenziadipollenzo.com).

In the heart of the Langhe area you can visit the Museo Enologico Toso, where its wine cellar holds the secrets and the hard work of the Toso family at its fourth generation. Toso is a company devoted to the research and development of red wines (from Barbera to Dolcetto) and white wines (from the Langhe Arneis to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG). www.toso.it

2021 EVENTS IN ITALY

Find the next year calendar on www.whereitalia.com

Dante 2021 Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of beauty and warm hospitality.

To commemorate the 700th anniversary of his death, a full calendar of initiatives has been created involving the three cities associated with Dante (Ravenna, Verona and Florence) in the coming months, which will continue until Sunday 12 September 2021. On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti will climb onto the podium for a concert in Piazza San Francesco in Ravenna, a performance that will also be repeated in Florence and Verona. The programme of events will reach its culmination with the inauguration of the Museum of the Italian Language at Santa Maria Novella.

AUGUST 16/8 | Siena | Palio dell’Assunta. www.ilpalio.org 28/8 | Salento area (Puglia) | La Notte della Taranta. www.lanottedellataranta.it SEPTEMBER 1-11/9 | Venice | International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art. www.labiennale.org 4-17/9 | Venice | The Venice Glass Week. www.theveniceglassweek.com 5-8/9 | Milan | HOMI The lifestyle Trade Fair @ Fieramilanocity & MiCo. www.homimilano.com 5-10/9 | | Milan | SUPERSALONE and Fuorisalone www.salonemilano.it + Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org 8-26/9 | Milan | MiTo SettembreMusica www.mitosettembremusica.it 10-14/9 | Vicenza | VicenzaOro. www.vicenzaoro.com 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1.

Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com 13-19/9 | Milan | Milano Artweek www.yesmilano.it 16-21/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it 17-19/9 | Milan | Orticola di Lombardia. www.orticola.org 17-19/9 | Pitti Fragranze | Stazione Leopolda (Florence). fragranze.pittimmagine.com 18-20/9 | Milan | HOMI Fashion & Jewels. www.homifashionjewels.com 18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | Carnevale di Viareggio. viareggio.ilcarnevale.com 19/9 | Rome | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. www.runromethemarathon.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Mipel. mipel.com 19-21/9 | Milan | Micam. milano.themicam.com 19-21/9 | Milan | The One Milano. www.theonemilano.com 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. www.cameramoda.it 22-24/9 | Milan | Lineapelle. www.lineapelle-fair.

OCTOBER 2-10/10 | Milan | Milano Wine Week. www.milanowineweek.com 7-10/10 | Milan | MIA Milan Image Art Fair @ Superstudio Maxi. www.miafair.it 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | International Alba White Truffle Fair. www.fieradeltartufo.org 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. www.barcolana.it 10-12/10 | Milan | World Routes. www.routesonline.com 14-18/10 | Turin | International Bookfair (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it 15-24/10 | Perugia | Eurochocolate. www.eurochocolate.com 17-19/10 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). www.vinitaly.com NOVEMBER 5-7/11 | Turin | Artissima 28th edition. www.artissima.art 5-9 /11| | Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | Merano Wine Festival. www.meranwinefestival.com 17-21/11 | Milan | BookCity Milano. bookcitymilano.it and Music Week. www.milanomusicweek.it 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. venice.whereitalia.com 25-28/11 | Milan | EICMA International Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition. www.eicma.it End of November | Venice | Teatro La Fenice – Opening of the Opera Season. www. teatrolafenice.it DECEMBER 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – Opening of the Opera Season: "Machbeth" by Giuseppe Verdi (conductor: Riccardo Chailly). www.teatroallascala.org

Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European and world literature and represents an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, which for centuries has been considered the greatest work written in the Italian language and one of the masterpieces of world literature, describes a journey into the afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and suffering of the damned, the punishments to which they are subjected and the glories they have earned. A journey into history and mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and eternal feelings.

The main sites in Florence that will host the events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the University of Florence, the Accademia della Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di Dante Museum. www.700dantefirenze.it

This image by press photographer Massimo Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce with the statue of Dante in the foreground. Dante’s empty tomb (cenotaph) is held in the Basilica of Santa Croce but he is actually buried in Ravenna.

WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Unique Italian Landscape The variety and beauty of its “landscape” is what makes Italy unique. This term is not always easily translatable but relates to the environment and the many ways in which man has transformed it, during its multifaceted history. The result is a combination of nature and art that delights the eye and the heart.

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The Italian ‘Lake district’

Over the past few years, due to the influx of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water and the diversity of the countryside make the area a real outdoor recreation ground.

Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and DOP olive oil.

Mantua, the city of the Gonzagas

Though less well-known than Venice or Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated in Northern Italy on the banks of the River Mincio, is packed with art treasures.

Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Lombard city experienced its maximum period of splendour during the Renaissance, when its most famous masterpieces were executed. A renowned patron of the arts, Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio

Bologna, the university of Italy

Built in 1088, most historians agree that the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world. Thanks to the continuous turnover of students from all over the world, from medieval times to the present day, this university has made Bologna a vibrant city from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè Carducci, one of the most important Italian poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which I cannot regret, but I love it more because it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the historic centre with its porticoes and towers, streets and markets, and main square with the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly surroundings are also breathtaking.

Portofino, home to the ‘piazzetta’ and mysterious villas

With its narrow streets leading down to the sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olives groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence.

Tuscan

times, this beautiful coastal village has been a highly sought-after holiday destination.

And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino is a reference point for international tourism.

Although its hotels are astronomically priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, or a stroll around its designer shops can be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are many anecdotes about the town which was used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after the tomb was opened and his villa became a site of sinister, inexplicable happenings…

Tuscany, the Italy that everyone dreams about

There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent works of Michelangelo and his marble statues.

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There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square.

There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique throughout the world. Ultimately, there are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians and foreigners. There are gently rolling hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding streets and stone houses scattered around the countryside. The Tuscan experience is bound to win over your heart. However, if you haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof!

Ah, the wonders of Tuscany!

northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts are located. The summer getaway for the rich and famous including financiers, big names in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to defend the shipment of the precious marble quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, thus making it an important crossroads for trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury shopping.

Forte dei Marmi: the sea of Tuscany

“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic and neglected. People are friendly and ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee

In addition to being the birthplace of a queen (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of

Naples and then…

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Portofino

Matera

are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee for yourself, and then purchasing another one for someone else who doesn’t have the money to pay for it.

Naples is the ideal starting point to explore the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one of the most incredible archaeological sites in the world.

Matera, the hidden pearl of the South

When it became the European capital of culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark ages, and is one of the most intriguing places in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the other, they overhang a gorge to create an incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist track, Matera has often been used as a film set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Passion of Christ’.

The Kingdom of Baroque

Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns.

Protected by UNESCO, and located in southeastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your heart and leave you awestruck. Although almost all of these towns existed during medieval times, they were razed to the ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693.

However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle of beauty: architecture, urban planning and the ornamentation of buildings constitute the crowning achievement of one of the last periods of the flourishing Baroque movement in Europe. An absolute marvel!

STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY originally covered the Colosseum. They were ‘recycled’ to build several historic Roman buildings including the Basilica of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.

Florence

Venice

Venice

With canals in the place of streets, and boats instead of cars, Venice, the city of a thousand bridges, spectacular facades, and breathtaking views, offers a dreamlike vision. This romantic city par excellence, has a wealth of historic and artistic treasures that would be difficult to find in any country other than Italy.

To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze wander over the lagoon.

How can one describe a city which originated in the Renaissance in just a few words? It’s impossible! The only solution is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It is really no surprise that the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since there is not one centimeter that is not worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that you make time to lose yourself amidst its art and architecture, its history and its landscapes. There’s just one thing that you need to remember: this is the place where Stendhal experienced what was later to become known as the Stendhal syndrome…

Rome

Fifteen square kilometers and twentyfive-thousand attractions: Rome’s historic centre has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely photographed monument in the world, the Colosseum is considered one of the 7 wonders of the modern world.

The memory of its performances – gladiators, wild animals and naval battles – re-enacted in the arena have always fueled the fantasy of history and film buffs. However, everyone is aware of what happened to the 100,000 cubic metres of shining white marble that

Rome

Florence

Turin

A Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes which house shops and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

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[ W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A]

Dream experiences To discover the beauties of the city or to try out special experiences, Welcome to Italia offers you some unmissable opportunities. Choose whether to take part in exclusive city tours or book the outdoor experience you’ve been dreaming of for the summer: www.welcometoitalia.com

EGYPTIAN MUSEUM GUIDED TOUR

THE SPECIAL ONES BELLAGIO AND VARENNA, PEARLS OF LAKE COMO

A visit to two of the most beautiful villages in Italy, where you can admire spectacular views with a private boat ride. Aperitif or brunch.

CLICK & BUY

Your guide will take you on a journey in time and space through the second most important museum in the world for the study of the Ancient Egypt.

You will also enter the scenographic and breathtaking gallery of Ramses II. CLICK & BUY

ROYAL PALACE GUIDED TOUR

The Royal Palace was the residence of the Savoia’s royal family: explore with your guide the halls and rooms where the Italian royal family used to live. You will end your visit in the baroque Chapel of the Holy Shroud.

BUBBLES ON THE LAKE

Two-hour boat tour for a special moment with your loved one, or for a toast with friends in a magical atmosphere.

CLICK & BUY

CLICK & BUY

TURIN FOOD & WINE WALKING TOUR

What better way of discovering Turin than exploring the local food and wine culture that makes the city so unique.

From the elegant and historical coffee and chocolate shops to the Porta Palazzo market, the biggest in Europe.

CLICK & BUY

TURIN HIGHLIGHTS WALKING TOUR

This 2-hour walking tour is the perfect way to discover Turin with the help of a local and expert guide: let’s admire some of the most beautiful historical buildings declared UNESCO World heritage.

CLICK & BUY

24 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

Discover other experiences: www.welcometoitalia.com

ROMANTIC TOUR ON LAKE COMO

The experience of taste and relaxation between Varenna and the magical waters of the lake culminates with dinner in a panoramic restaurant.

CLICK & BUY

Live your dream and get your experience in a click

Welcome to Italia network promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents with high-quality experiences.

www.welcometoitalia.com

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© ADELE CHIABODO

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SHOPPING

The scented universe of Tonatto A world of fragrances that strikes the deepest chords of the soul, where you can find home fragrances and perfumes, or create the scent that best reflects your personality. By Chiara Zaccarelli

I

n Via della Rocca, not far from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, there’s a hidden treasure trove where you can create your own scented portrait or purchase an element of olfactory design that gives a distinctive identity to your living spaces. The Gallerie Olfattorie (Olfactory Galleries) are perfume ateliers where you can find all the fragrances of Maison Tonatto. In addition to home fragrances and perfumes you can establish a connection with art, music, literature and films through the sense of smell, stimulated by unique installations. However, the real artistic heritage of the Maison is the ‘Olfattoteca’, an archive that contains hundreds of olfactory notes where, like a haute couture atelier, you can create your own bespoke fragrance, based on individual requirements.

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Tonatto Profumi is a key representative of Italian perfumery throughout the world. Under the supervision of Diletta Tonatto, the company’s Managing Director and Artistic Director who boasts a degree in sociology and a doctorate in the sociology of smell, the Maison offers an array of 26 fragrances interpreted in a collection of fragrances for the home and body. All the products in the collection are created using the traditional techniques of haute perfumery. The alcoholic compounds are filtered by hand, resulting in a sought-after balance of craftsmanship and innovation. All this translates into an authentic ritual that makes Tonatto’s fragrances eminently wearable scents that follow the passage of time without ever being intrusive.

>> www.tonatto.com Via della Rocca, 14c.

T: 011 835631. Map G6

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

The

Guidelines CLOTHING

MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47).

SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers.

Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 24. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.

SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Musei Reali or the Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our decision to describe them in special boxes.

The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge.

All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

MEN & WOMEN

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Boggi Milano

Astrua 1860

Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 5622017. Map E6

Kristina Ti The standalone store of Torinese brand Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4

SO San Lorenzo An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, soughtafter style, this stand-alone store offers a selection of established and emerging brands including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware department features furnishing fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful selection of tableware and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo.it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5

DEPARTMENT STORE Rinascente Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. This department store offers the best in fashion for men, women and children, alongside a selection of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious international products. Don’t miss the renewed floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.

Map F5

San Carlo dal 1973 Having abandoned its former vocation for big-name fashion brands, this multi-functional concept store focuses on collections based on a ‘no brand’ approach, giving way to a selected assortment of creations by emerging designers. Besides perfumes, essences, accessories, artisanal jewelry from British, Japanese and American designers, the store features a selection of apparel, homeware and hand-crafted Japanese items. A terrace with a bar welcomes customers wanting to sip a cocktail or choose their favourite dish from the small menu that changes weekly.www. sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 161.

T: 011 5114111. Map F4

ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated with a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of those used in watches. At its historic store, boasting an innovative, modern concept, Astrua presents its contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather goods and precious accessories. In addition to several of the world’s most coveted

Sizing Women,s clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women,s shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men,s clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men,s shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12 w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 27

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands A stroll through the streets of the centre, amidst elegant royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and squares embellished with sumptuous architecture, is a unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm.

It’s also a great destination for shopping enthusiasts. In the heart of the city, often referred to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find the best fashion brands. In particular, the austere and elegant via Roma and the parallel via Lagrange, do justice to the exquisite Italian and international fashions on display. Alternately, a reference point for young, trendy fashion is via Garibaldi – one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – which runs from Piazza Castello to Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.

Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577.

Map F4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8.

T: 011 4407207. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632.

Map F4

ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 19886532. Map F3

HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124.

T: 011 546971. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5

ITALIA INDEPENDENT— www.italiaindependent.com Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704.

Map F5

SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335.

T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Racconigi, 32 bis.

T: 011 3852651. Off Map

L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320.

T: 011 5620678. Map E5 LUISA SPAGNOLI—www.luisaspagnoli.it Open Mon 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 61.

T: 011 547136. Map F4 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm7pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 9bis. T: 011 543447.

Map F3 MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.

Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.

Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c.

T: 011 4782004. Map F4

CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342.

T: 011 5613226. Map F4

MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2.

T: 011 5618744 Map F4

CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2.

T: 011 5066699. Map F4

MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109.

Map E5

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5.

T. 011 5625977. Map F4 28 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

WOLFORD—www.wolford.it Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am1.30pm/2.30pm7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm.

Via A. Doria, 6.

T: 011 531348.

Map F5

PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203.

Map F4

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’s spring-summer 2021 collection draws inspiration from the current season in this floral print silk plongée shirt dress.

SHOPPING watch brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Panerai, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines and Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 stocks Murano glass by Venini, creations by Tudor, luxury accessories, Edward Green footwear, Amouage fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.astrua.com.

Via Cesare Battisti, 15 corner of Piazza Carlo Alberto. T: 011 5613873. Map F4

Rocca 1794

in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Madein-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www.maledettitoscani.com.

Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18.

T: 011 5579134. Map E4

PASSION SHOPPING

ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a selection of the world’s most prestigious brands including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Blancpain, Bucherer, Lange & Sohne, Longines, Ulysse Nardin, Salvini and Venini. Rocca is acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end of the 18th century. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290.

T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4

Bagni Paloma

LEATHER & LUGGAGE

At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance.

The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and

Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop.

Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops

Located in an old 100sq.m. garage in the heart of Turin, this delightful concept store carries clothing, furniture and various other items including dishwashing liquids, black pepper, candles, Japanese watercolours and colognes

by Parisian ceramic artist Astier de Villatte.

The backbone of its fashion offerings include niche brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, Ouigal, Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture used for display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it.

Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. Via dei Mille, 30/d. T: 011 888569.

Map G6

Culti House Torino

scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3.

T: 011 0361363. Map F4

La Belle Histoire Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this retrò-style atelier is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. The store offers a selection of almost exclusively Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights include a collection of strictly Italianmade footwear and a homeware line. www. labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g.

T: 011 8136199. Map H3

Les Coquettes Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this unusual, whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian air, offers a selection of clothing, delicious bijoux, cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing accessories. www.lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, 12/l.

T: 011 531943. Map F3

Mabì Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells couture clothing, French costume jewelry, artisanal footwear and natural cosmetic

Tax Free Refund Guide According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Italian legislation to discover the common system of value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident travellers.

1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund.

This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document;

• the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the “customs stamp”; • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must be electronically transmitted by the national seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally carried out.

• after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will send a message to the retailer that all the requirements are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle the tax relief.

• the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of the purchase.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the

document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should recontact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otelloenglish-version/legislation

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SHOPPING

Esoteric Turin Turin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to its geographical position, along the 45th parallel where the Po and Dora rivers meet.

More importantly, it creates the vertices of two triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle of black magic. This explains why Turin boasts numerous shops dedicated to arcane practices where you can purchase books, incense, tarot cards, candles, plus anything else associated with the occult world. (C.Z.) ARETHUSA At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, established in 1948, you can find a comprehensive selection of publications, books, magazines or series dedicated to spiritual, hermetic or esoteric subjects.

Arethusa also stocks a wide range of tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, bùzinos, runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com Tues-Sat 10.45am- 6.40pm.

Via G. Giolitti, 18.

T: 011 8173373. Map F5 ESOTERICAMENTE A reference point in the city for lovers of the genre. After crossing a beautiful inner courtyard in via Garibaldi, you’ll find a vast assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans of Salomonic origin, tarot cards and cards from all over the world, incense, crystals and everything required for ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large and wellstocked. www.esotericamente.it Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm.

Via G. Garibaldi, 18 (courtyard).

T: 011 4310499. Map E3 LIBRERIA EDITRICE PSICHE Founded in Turin in 1978, this publisher, publishes and sells works related to medicine, naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and numerology at its namesake bookstore.

Also organizes meetings, courses and themed seminars. www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30am.

Via Madama Cristina, 70/b.

T: 011 6507058. Off Map

30 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

LA BELLE HISTOIRE

SAN CARLO DAL 1973

See page 29

See page 27

products. Rather than fast fashion, you’ll find a selection of authentic clothing with a nod to vintage, at this charming boutique. Garments on sale include a collection of women’s couture dresses designed especially for Mabi by Maria della Rocchetta, one of the two owners of the store, who has a passion for British-style floral prints. www.mabishop.it. Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via della Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511. Map G6

Poncif Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a style designed for women, who, in spite of their love for minimalist, no-frills fashion, are nevertheless looking to make a statement thanks to the strikingly original designs and unusual colour combinations. In addition to the line of the Poncif brand, designed and produced by an in-house team, all the collections showcased are based on the same principle. www.poncif.com. Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Fri 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5\f.

T: 011 8173040. Map H5

Rrriot shop Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage jewelry and accessories and young, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer its customers a range of products that are always different and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin to Northern European brands designed exclusively for the Italian market. www.rrriotshop.com.

Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a.

T: 011 19500239. Map F7

Tonatto Profumi Tonatto Profumi is a key representative of Italian perfumery throughout the world. The real artistic heritage of the Maison is the ‘Olfattoteca’, an archive that contains hundreds of olfactory notes where, like a haute couture atelier, you can create your own bespoke fragrance, based on individual requirements.

All the products in the collection are created using the traditional techniques of haute perfumery. The alcoholic compounds are filtered by hand, resulting in a sought-after balance of craftsmanship and innovation.

Open Tues-Sat 2.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 11am-7pm. www.tonatto.com Via della Rocca, 14c.

T: 011 835631. Map G6

SHOES Bottega Velasca Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and accessories) store for men offers customers an authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm8pm; Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 94755460 (bottega.torino@velasca. com).Map G6

Hole This multi-brand store located in the heart of the city’s historic centre sells high-quality footwear distinguished by its original design.

You’ll find a interesting mix of trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma and Strategia, alongside models by Italian and internal artisanal producers. Also sells bags and accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11.

T: 011 5176602. Map E3

Cribì Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store selling minimalist, alternative footwear and clothing, featuring a combination of craftsmanship and experimentation to create elegant, timeless lines. Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm.

Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348.

Map F5

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO Vicolungo The Style Outlets Torino Outlet Village

Torino Outlet Village

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA

TRIESTE

MILANO

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TORINO

ALESSANDRIA

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Mondovicino Outlet Village

Located in Piedmont, just a short distance from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering year-round discounts.

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PIACENZA

The Mall Sanremo

VENTIMIGLIA

MAR LIGURE

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

MAR ADRIATICO

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Serravalle GENOVA Designer Outlet

THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

RIMINI

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Mondovicino Outlet Village

PERUGIA

TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO With over 90 stores of top Italian THE STYLE OUTLETS DESIGNER OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE and international brands, as well Situated 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from Situated one hour from Turin, PESCARA as a selection of carefully selected CORSICA downtown Turin, this is the ideal Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, eateries, guest services, and place to spend a stylish day out is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers amenities for families, this is an where shopping, entertainment Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, ROMA elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, and relaxation combine to setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public satisfy all requirements. luxury designer brands with the surroundings and appealing holidays 10am-9pm).

The outlet is open 7 days a week beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from MAR TIRRENO • WHERE: located in Settimo from 10 am to 8 pm.

• WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm.

Torinese, just 15 minutes from the • WHERE: take the A4 Torinoand A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 TorinoNAPOLI centre of Turin, 30 minutes from Milano motorway and exit at exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at the main cities in Piedmont and 75 Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. A free shuttle service, minutes from Milan, near the exits service, departing at 10am from 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso from the A4 and A5 motorways, Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via the Outlet is easily accessible by front of the Porta Nuova train Scrivia and Novi Ligure.

Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning car. The outlet provides a daily SARDEGNA station) is available from Turin.

• WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point shuttle bus service from the • WHAT: More than 300 prestigious featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. city centre and a weekly service brands, including Armani, Missoni, designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 from the main tourist resorts in Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com.

Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta.

Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1a Classe, brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, beauty products at discounted Casadei, at up to 30-70% less yearEnrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, prices of up to 70% year-round. round. Multiple customer services, Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, more) specializing in apparel, Vicolungo The Style Outlets staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus accessories, footwear, homeware, also hosts art exhibitions, events well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and sports gear and personal care, with and other initiatives for an make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted year-round discounts of up to 70%. entertaining day’s outing. experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. www.torinooutletvillage.com www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 31

© DAVIDE BELLUCCA

DINING

Classic cuisine with a twist At ‘Le Vitel Étonné’ customers can sample traditional Piedmontese dishes, subtly re-imagined to suit contemporary tastes. The menu is enhanced by an extensive list of regional wines. By Chiara Zaccarelli

L

ocated in the heart of the centre, just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional regional dishes including, first and foremost, “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call Vitel Tonné as a tribute to their foreign cousins. The name of the restaurant stems from a play on the words “tonné” and “étonné”, meaning “surprised” or “amazed” in French. The menu features a selection of must-try strictly homemade fresh pasta dishes. Specialties include classic Tajarin, prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of sauces, agnolotti, tagliatelle with Bra sausage and Plin. Main dishes, also based on traditional recipes, are cooked at low temperatures in hay, or breaded 32 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

with classic Torinese grissini (breadsticks).

Depending on the season and the catch of the day, the restaurant also offers customers a choice of seafood options. Standouts on the dessert menu include mascarpone cream, sprinkled with bitter chocolate, on a chocolate biscuit base, or gelato and sorbets prepared inhouse using seasonal ingredients. The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 Italian labels, with a focus on Piedmontese reds. If you enjoy watching the chefs at work, grab a seat in the welcoming ground floor dining room, opposite the open-plan kitchen.

Please note: unlike most local eateries, the locale is open non-stop from midday to midnight. So, if you suddenly get a craving for tajarin at 5pm, you’ll know where to go!

>> www.leviteletonne.com Via San Francesco da Paola, 4.

T: 011 8124621. Map H4

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

TRADITIONAL PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Cannavacciuolo Bistrot Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique tasting experience featuring a combination of northern and southern flavours.

Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino.

Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6

Casa Amelie

chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the search for premium-quality ingredients with a particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, accompanied by homemade bread and focacce.

Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3

Le Vitel Etonné The standout at this restaurant located in the heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant.

Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick

walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com.

Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621.

Map G4

Plin & Tajarin This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, after or as an accompaniment, diners can order meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it.

Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3

Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di

A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premiumquality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com.

Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2

Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices.

With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3

Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, gardengrown vegetables. A harmonious combination that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced from the best local producers, with a few forays into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it.

Via Monte di Pietà, 23.

T: 011 2767661. Map E3

È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The

Piedmontese sushi, with raw meat Who says that the word sushi only means fish? Located in the heart of Turin, in the city’s central via Mazzini, Sushi dal Maslè debunks this myth, and serves Japanese inspired dishes using premium cuts of raw meat.

The restaurant’s name – in Piedmontese dialect maslè means butcher – indicates that local, traditional ingredients are used, and Piedmontese Fassona beef plays a key role. Minced Fassona beef or Brà sausage, combined with Nori seaweed and traditional Japanese sauces give birth to tasty ‘Piémont Sushi®’, interpreted in Uramaki, Temaki and rolls, but also Tartare, Sashimi and hot dishes seared on the grill.

Standouts include ‘Bombetta Piemontese’ with Albese and a Robiola mousse, ‘San Carlo’ with Vitello Tonnato and Alba Hazelnuts, ‘Ficotto’ with Bra Sausage, Tomino cheese and Fig Mayonnaise, or seasonal dishes like ‘Cacio e Pepe’ featuring warm Pecorino cream, black pepper grains and crunchy guanciale. The food is accompanied by an extensive selection of wines from the Piedmontese hills, and is served in a welcoming atmosphere, amidst dim lighting, wood and stone furnishings, and an openplan kitchen.

Sushi dal Maslè. Via Mazzini 37/B. T: 351 8278722. Map G6. www.sushidelmasle.it

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DINING

Pastry Shops The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli

GHIGO This historic pastry shop, located just steps from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, served with freshly whipped cream and marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a generous sprinkling of icing sugar. www.pasticceriaghigo.it Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017.

PASTICCERIA VENIER Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the centre, is another go-to destination to start (or end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate and two amaretti instead of shortcake.

Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592.

TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop that turns out approximately 20 different cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is infused with a warm, homely Provence-style atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and vintage trays, you can purchase traditional

34 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508.

Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in the rooms of an old apothecary established in 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano.

Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth mention are the locale’s savoury offerings which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it.

Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250.

GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI First pastry shop of Iginio Massari, “Best Pastry Chef in the World” at the World Pastry Stars 2019 contest. Based on a new formula that visualizes a series of pastry shops that differ from one another, this is a multifunctional space. Open throughout the day, it houses and open-plan workshop in the basement plus two rooms where you can sample and purchase Massari’s sweet treats. Here you can find more tha 12 types of products, ranging from cakes to fruit jellies, croissants and bite-sized pastries, plus the signature Dolce Torino, a unique gianduia chocolate plumcake created exclusively to honour the city of Turin.

Particolar attention is paid to packaging. www.iginiomassari.it. Piazza C.L.N., 232.

T: 011 4249343.

Galleria Iginio Massari

CAFFÈ PLATTI If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became a social and cultural reference point for 20th-century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery has been run by renowned patissier Guido Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72.

T: 011 4546151.

Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing accessories and walls decorated with period paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pmmidnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5

Scannabue Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693.

Map E7

Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’.

Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. torino.circololettori.it/servizi/.

Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4

ETHNIC CUISINE Hafa Storie A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is fairly common because the city’s second largest foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence.

While the Piedmontese offerings are created

by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays the foundations for a harmonious, productive cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13.

T: 011 19486765. Map F2

Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist.

DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants Eight starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin.

Casa Vicina

© LIDO VANNUCCHI

Spazio 7

CANNAVACCIUOLO BISTROT Established to offer diners an elegant, unique experience, this restaurant highlights the essence of the famous Neapolitan chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, which sees traditional ingredients from his homeland mixed and matched with those from Piedmont. The space has been designed in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui.

Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 CARIGNANO The culinary offerings are inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the nearby region of Liguria. Traditional dishes re-imagined in keeping with contemporary.

Via Carlo Alberto, 35. c/o Grand Hotel Sitea T: 011 5170171. www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 CASA VICINA C/O GREEN PEA (LINGOTTO) Located in the headquarters of Green Pea, this restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who for five generations have embraced the region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality ingredients. Old and familiar tastes are reinterpreted to give new life to the Piedmontese recipes.

Via Nizza, 230 c/o Green Pea (3rd Floor).

T: 011 19506840. www.casavicina.com Off Map

CONDIVIDERE Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted

by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi in a contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that can be enjoyed in an informal atmosphere.

Particular attention is paid to raw materials and to desserts that are served in a separate area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. Here, guests can choose from an array of different Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by single-servings of desserts.

Via Bologna, 20A. c/o Nuvola Lavazza T: 011 0897651. www.condividere.com Map H1 DEL CAMBIO Established in 1757, it was among the favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional traditions, which he reinterprets with a creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth a visit.

Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. www.delcambio.it Map F4 MAGORABIN Just steps from the Mole, this starred restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s tasting menu by chef Marcello Trentini.

Just a little further on, in the same street,

the chef has opened Casa Mago, a cocktail bar with an adjacent pastry shop where you can dine, enjoy a drink or purchase delicious sweet treats.

Corso San Maurizio, 61/b.

T: 011 8126808. www.magorabin.com Map H4 SPAZIO7 Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived here after working at several of Piedmont’s most historic restaurants, mirrors the foundation’s concept: young, contemporary and open to innovation. The wine list features the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring regions in France.

Via Modane, 20. c/o Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo (1st Floor). T: 011 3797626. www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map VINTAGE 1997 As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s culinary offerings are also true to tradition.

Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find authentic Piedmontese specialties including truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, practiced for the past twenty years with traditional Piedmontese professionalism.

Piazza Solferino, 16H. T: 011 535948. www.vintage1997.com Map E4

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DINING Porto di Savona

Signature dishes include Fassona beef tartare with fried marrow bone and spicy mayonnaise, marinated scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar.business.site.

Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Map F2

Oriental Daily by Kiki In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of the venue’s original desserts including Azuki bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries.

Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067.

Off Map

PIZZA

taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com.

Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3

Gusto Madre Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted with numerous dough varieties, flours and ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed

by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and combined with the creativity and skill inherent in time-honoured dough-making techniques, are the reasons for the success of this healthy, easyto-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it.

Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6

TASTING EXPERIENCE & STREET FOOD Gofreria Piemonteisa If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeastbased batter, without eggs or milk, these mouthwatering waffles are deliciously light and topped

with either sweet or savoury ingredients while you wait. Make sure to try the house special whose batter is mixed with cooked bacon and served with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream cheese.

Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4

Mollìca Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola.

At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can choose to have your sandwich filled with these or numerous other ingredients, all sourced exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘focacciona’, there’s no way that you can go wrong because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon-4pm/7pm-10.30pm. €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737.

Map F7

Street Fish Although this might seem strange in a city like Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere.

Options on offer include fish tartare served in a corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you to watch the chefs at work, while the other half features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4.

T: 389 0010612. Map F5

A Casa di Pulcinella An informal locale which, as its name suggests, serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a wide selection of craft and other beers.

Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest.

Ingredients include the classics for which Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage.

Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82.

T: 011 595457. Off Map

Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a variety of classic toppings, with a few regional references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts.

Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly select labels from Italy’s best wine producers.

Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it.

Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3

Crudo fa la Pizza!

Crudo is an award-winning food company, boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, sourced from only the finest producers. It has now 36 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

LE VITEL ETONNÉ Located just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional regional dishes including “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call “Vitel Tonné”. Main dishes are based on traditional recipes, such as homemade fresh pasta, the classic Tajarin, agnolotti and plin. www.leviteletonne.com

DINING

Food glossary From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the worldfamous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes.

B Y C. Z.

© TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling

Bagna Cauda

PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, musetto (a pork sausage made in part from a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked for several hours in boiling water. It is accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and a side of vegetables. One of the favourite dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ even has its own brotherhood.

VITELLO TONNATO This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and white wine, sliced thinly and served cold with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

BONET Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven.

A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, natural culinary technique that is used to cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It preserves the softness of the dessert and facilitates the formation of a delicious crust on its surface.

Piedmontese Mixed Fry

© GIOVANNI BOSCHERINO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY This uniquely rich local specialty of Piedmont consists of a combination of fried liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables.

Not a dish for the faint-hearted.

of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of pasta together.

Bagna Cauda

Vitello Tonnato

© VALENTINO CAZZANTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

BAGNA CAUDA This typical winter specialty consists of a sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and chopped nuts can also be added.

Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, it encourages conviviality, on the other, especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you might find people avoiding you because you reek of it!

Bonet

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FOOD&WINE

Turin’s temple of tea La Via del Tè has been synonymous with premium-quality teas, fruit infusions and blends permeated with the aromas of far-off lands, for more than 50 years. A treat, in all its aspects, for tea aficionadios By Giulia Minero

T

he story of La Via del Tè began in Florence in 1961, when young Alfredo Carrai travelled to China for the first time to deepen his knowledge of tea, the second most widely drunk beverage in the world, and to introduce its culture and consumption to Italy. More than 50 years later, the company is still helmed with the same passion by the Carrai family, boasting six mono-brand boutiques, including one located in the shadow of the Mole, where customers can immerse themselves in the magical world of tea. The Torinese concept store, which is situated in the heart of the city, revolves around an old-world “aromateque”, where glass jars containing a variety of teas from all over the world allow customers to 38 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

see, smell and select the infusion that best suits them. Here, amidst wood furnishings and shelves, customers can choose from among over 250 products including Oolong, white and whole leaf green teas from China and Japan, plus other precious varieties from India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Africa, scented blends, fruit infusions and herbal teas. The product range also includes classic tins, transparent fabric or cotton muslin tea bags, gift boxes and tea-flavoured delicacies, as well as a wide selection of teapots, cups and accessories in cast-iron, glass and porcelain from far-off countries. Connoisseurs or customers who want to try new blends can enjoy a regenerating cup of welcome tea from a samovar on a side counter.

>> Via Carlo Alberto, 1/I T: 011 837017. Map G4 www.laviadelte.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

FOOD SHOPS

ITALIAN GELATO

Borgiattino

Alberto Marchetti

A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other Italian and European regions including Reblochon from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com.

Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4

Gastronomia (La)

VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovyfree Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district.

Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map

You can sample Alberto Marchetti’s award-winning ice cream at various locations across the city.

The highlights of its ‘creations’ are its freshness, simplicity and the quality of its ingredients that conjure up childhood memories of only the most authentic gelato. In particular, thanks to the Slow Food project, which protects small, local producers, it offers a selection of unique flavours including ice cream made with Leonforte peaches, Ribera wild strawberries, Mombaruzzo amaretti or Moscato Passito from Strevi. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon-midnight; Fri-Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 11am11pm. www.albertomarchetti.it. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 24bis. T: 011 8390879. Map E5 * Via Po, 35bis. T: 011 8141160. Map G4 * Piazza CLN, 248. T: 011 544383. Map F5

Gelateria Pepino

UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the heart of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice cream parlours that has been producing highquality ice cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented

and patented the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice cream on a stick covered with chocolate that soon became popular throughout the rest of the world.

In addition to the classic vanilla version, Pepino offers a variety of different options including coffee, gianduja, mint and coconut. Open Fri-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun-Thurs 9.30am-8.30pm. www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Carignano, 87.

T: 011 542009. Map F4

Mara dei Boschi Its natural ice cream made from only the finest ingredients without preservatives or additives, won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from the Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an ideal option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon11pm; Sat and Sun 12noon-midnight. Via Berthollet, 30/h. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com.

Corso De Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map

Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herbflavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-inlaw’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map

Latteria Bera Situated just a short distance from Piazza Castello, this old-world, family-run ‘latteria’ (dairy shop) sells cheese and traditional Italian and Piedmontese charcuterie and pickles. The cheeses on offer include Parmigiano Reggiano, Robiola from Roccaverano, Caciocavallo from Potenza, Morozzo and Toma-flavoured butter.

Other delicacies on offer include freshly whipped cream and Greek yoghurt. Open MonTues 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 9.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.latteriabera.com.

Via San Tommaso, 13/a. T: 328 0166854. Map F3

Pescheria Gallina Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del mercato has been in business for over a century.

Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2

Authentic delicacies of Piedmont Turin’s most famous fresh pasta can be found at Pastificio Defilippis in the heart of via Lagrange. It has been here since 1872, when Domenico Toso, chef to the House of Savoy, returned to Turin, following the royal family’s move from Florence. Established as a small artisanal workshop in the 20th century, the high quality and unmistakable flavour of Defilippis pasta have contributed to making via Lagrange the street of gourmets in search of the most authentic flavours of Piedmontese tradition. Fresh egg pasta made with select ingredients, Piedmontese ‘tajarin, ‘plin’ ravioli, ‘agnolotti’ stuffed with braised beef and ravioli filled with truffles, fondue or pumpkin, depending on the season, plus fresh bronze extruded durum wheat pasta, can be purchased to take away, or sampled on-site.

Since 2008, its elegant spaces, decorated with wood furnishings, have also housed a delicatessen and a gourmet restaurant on two floors, where you can taste the great classics of the city’s pasta-making traditions interpreted in tantalizing recipes and accompanied by a good selection of wines. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.

Pastificio Defilippis. Via Lagrange, 39. T: 011 542137. www.pastificiodefilippis.it.

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TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE Abbazia Novecella

A thousand shades of orange Latest trend or age-old recipe?

Loved, criticised and the object of debate among experts, Orange Wines are wines from the ancient tradition, re-evaluated through history as superior products.

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

Gravner 40 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

TASTING

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation.

Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

A

s early as 5000/6000 years ago in the Caucasus (Georgia), Orange Wines were produced in buried amphorae. This technique was also used in the past in Europe, but after the two world wars it was completely forgotten. It was only at the start of the 1990s when a small group of experienced winemakers from Friuli revived it by experimenting with the ancient technique combined with modern scientific know-how, thus achieving excellent production levels.

Today there are wine-growers all over the world devoted to this outstanding product.

control, to allow a “spontaneous” fermentation; a reference to ethics, ecology and nature is therefore very much present.

Once the alcoholic fermentation is concluded, the winemakers proceed with the subsequent passage of ageing, which takes place, at their discretion, in glass, steel, amphora, cement or wood.

Depending on the white grape variety used, the period for which the skins are retained and the ageing method adopted, wines are obtained with colour tones ranging from ancient gold to topaz, from orange to amber; the hues can be bright, lively and intense, sometimes even with a certain opalescence, because they are not normally clarified and filtered and are, in any case, also virtually sulphite-free.

A HARMONY OF PERFUMES AND AROMAS TO DISCOVER If this is your first time tasting a macerated white wine, your nose and palate will be surprised by the flavours and aromas. We are not referring to the “skin-contact wines” of 20 years ago, which perhaps had a few defects due to incorrect choices in the vineyard or the lack of hygiene standards in the wine cellar; we are referring to more intense, mature, plant-based and balsamic scents, such as aromas of resin, Mediterranean maquis, pine and eucalyptus.

More enveloping, fuller flavours, with lively tannins (which make the mouth dry and rough) and mineral salts more present, which as a whole increase the body of the wine.

But beware, do not allow yourself to be deceived by your habits: if you do not “find” certain habitual signs and aromas, you must not judge these wines negatively solely because they diverge from traditional tastes.

What can you expect then? On the nose you will

detect notes of incense, propolis, smoke, tobacco, coffee, nougat, caramel. While for the family of fruity aromas we must imagine a mature, dehydrated, candied, baked fruit, preserved in alcohol (such as baked apple, candied lemon, dry fruit, cherry or plum preserved in alcohol)… and if we are referring to an excellent wine, there will be many other perfumes and aromas to discover.

As regards the fourth taste examination, the aftertaste, we can generally define this as long and persistent, with all the perceived aromas.

There is no real typical aftertaste of Orange wines, but only qualities that distinguish a “well made” product from one “made less well” and mean you are tasting a harmonious, persistent and elegant wine.

FROM FRIULI TO CONQUER THE WORLD The pioneer of the rebirth of macerated wines is an Italian producer, Joško Gravner. In the late 1990s he went against convention, overturning all the concepts of winemaking of that time.

During a stay in California, he encountered the presence of uniform, characterless wines on the market. He therefore decided to change direction and take a trip to the cradle of wine, Georgia. There he found the right inspiration and, returning to his winemaking estate in Gorizia (in Friuli), he began experimenting with vines, amphorae and ancient methods. This combination of ancient practices and modern experimentation made him famous all over the world. He was then joined by a close circle of local winemaking friends, such as Radikon, Maule and others.

A short documentary tells the story of Orange Wines since 1997, explaining in detail the origins of that wave that has now spread all over the world: “Skin Contact: Development of an Orange Taste”.

Gravner

HOW DOES VINIFICATION TAKE PLACE AND WITH WHAT DIFFERENCES? The difference between the various methods of production determines the more or less intense “orange” colour. In short, white wine is vinified as though it were red wine: so the grapes are not pressed and separated immediately after the harvest, but rather the components of the juice, skin and berries are allowed to macerate together for a variable period, from one day up to a few months. The maceration of the skins has the effect of extracting those substances that are responsible for the tactile taste sensation and coloration of the wine.

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TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE

AUTHOR'S TIPS

Here is a selection of excellent macerated wines from the North to the South of Italy, which have maceration on the skins as the thread running through them, but with very variable times and methods, which may be differentiated by ageing in steel, glass, amphora, cement or wood.

Alto-Adige

Angiolino Maule

Abbazia di Novacella “Hora” Grape variety: Sylvaner 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.abbaziadinovecella.it

Sardinia

Dettori “Dettori bianco” Grape variety: Vernaccia 100% Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.tenutedettori.it

Sicily

Frank Cornelissen “Munjebel bianco“ Grape variety: Grecanico Dorato 50%, Carricante 50% Maceration on skins: for 4 days Ageing: 18 months in fibreglass tanks www.frankcornelissen.it

Friuli-Venezia Giulia • Gravner “Ribolla Gialla Anfora” Grape variety: Ribolla Gialla 100% Maceration on skins: long maceration in buried Georgian amphorae Ageing: 5 months in amphora, then 6 years in large oak casks www.gravner.it

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Damijan Podversic

TASTING • Damijan Podversic “Nekaj” Grape variety: Nekaj 100% Maceration on skins: for 60-90 days Ageing: 3 years in large casks, then 1 year in the bottle www.damijanpodversic.it • Skerk Grape variety: Vitovska 100% Maceration on skins: on average, 10 days in wooden vats Ageing: 12 months in small wooden vats, then 12 months in 50 hl wooden casks www.skerk.com

Veneto

Angiolino Maule “Pico” Grape variety: Garganega 100% Maceration: 2-3 days Ageing: 12 months in large 15 hl casks www.angiolinomaule.com

Skerk

Tre Monti

EmiliaRomagna Tre Monti “Vitalba” Grape variety: Albana 100% Maceration: 95 days Ageing: 10 months in Georgian amphorae (kvevri) www.tremonti.it

Lazio

Don Chisciotte Grape variety: Fiano 100% Maceration: 8-15 days Ageing: 8 months in steel www.ildonchisciotte.net

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine-tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area.

Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

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ENTERTAINMENT

A signature cocktail

W

hy limit yourself to a traditional cocktail when you can sample a signature cocktail customized for you? Smile Tree, one of the trendiest destinations in Turin for lovers of mixology, and those in search of a cocktail infused with unconventional flavours, was founded and inspired by this philosophy. Located in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, with an outdoor area facing onto a charming square behind the Santuario della Consolata, this cocktail bar with its dim lighting and elegant ambience offers a well-stocked list of dry, semi-dry, bitter-sweet or salty cocktails, designed to suit the individual tastes of its clientele. Particular attention is focused on presentation. Each drink, served in glasses, ampoules or beautifully–shaped glass 44 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

containers, chosen to highlight the aromatic notes of the ingredients, is presented like a work of art. The cocktail list features a variety of fabulous options including ‘Buenos Dias’ with tequila, mezcal, a blood orange liqueur, coffee, chocolated-flavoured bitters, cardamom and white chocolate foam or non-alcoholic choices like ‘Lanterna Verde’ made with grapefruit juice, cucumber extract, mint leaves, green Tabasco with hot chili pepper and millefiori, all accompanied by fresh and dried fruit, vegetable chips and tasty vegan dishes. >> Smile Tree Piazza della Consolata, 9C. T: 331 1848136. Map E2 www.smiletreetorino.com

© ALBERTO CHIARIGLIONE

Want an aperitivo or after-dinner drink at an exceptional location that serves irresistible, beautifully presented cocktails? You’ll find both at Smile Tree in Turin. By Giulia Minero

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

AFTER DINNER Hiroshima Mon Amour Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, over the years it has become a reference point for events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring Italian and international artists, exhibitions and clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org.

Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map

Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on contemporary trends and up-and-coming artists. The venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pmmidnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see calendar. www.jazzclub.torino.it. Via S. Francesco da Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5

Les Arcades This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10.

T: 339 852806. Map G6

Piano35 Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment of delectable finger food. The venue offers breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com.

Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4

APERITIVI Ballantine’s Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot.

Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5

Beena This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner).

Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. beenaristoranteindiano.it.

Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7

Among LA DROGHERIA's signature cocktails, “La Torre” (Tiki style) and “Il Sole” (American style) propose a journey into the mysterious world of the Tarot.

La Drogheria Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d.

T: 011 8122414. Map H5

Lanificio San Salvatore Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians.

Highlights include an interesting wine list, including numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm-2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am.

Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7

THEATRES Teatro Carignano One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the place where the king went to watch plays. Dating back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. It has a reputation for producing theatre of the highest standards and presents an unrivalled range of classics, new plays and family entertainment.

Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it.

Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4

Teatro Nuovo Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Corso M. d’Azeglio, 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map

Teatro Regio Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at the beginning of the 18th century and designed by Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably linked to several of the world’s most illustrious musicians including Arturo Toscanini, Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss. Today it presents an exciting international program of operas, ballets and concerts. Open TuesFri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. www.teatroregio.torino.it.

Piazza Castello, 215.

T: 011 8815557. Map F3

Your home restaurant

Dedicated to those who want to experience the real regional culinary tradition, the typical products of the territory and recipes handed down through the generations of Italian families. The “Cesarine” network - spread out over 140 Italian cities with over 1000 amateur chefs - has become established over recent years with this very aim: to offer a complete gastronomic experience by opening up the doors of home with lunches and dinners, personalised show cooking, cooking competitions, visits to markets or local producers or catering in exclusive locations. Having lunch with an Italian family, with dishes prepared following the typical traditions of the local cuisine, tasting the wines of the territory, is a truly unique experience!

And from this year live cooking courses and virtual appointments are available on the cesarine.com website, in both Italian and English, so you can continue to learn family recipes and all the secrets of traditional cuisine. www.cesarine.com

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

The “Living Room” of Turin

F

ormerly a parade ground and the city’s marketplace, Piazza San Carlo is located along an axis bisected by the highly central via Roma.

Considered the most beautiful square in the city, it still preserves the harmonious 17th century appearance that architect Carlo di Castellamonte gave it when it was originally built. Spread over an area of 12,768 square meters, it is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy, affectionately known to locals as the ‘Caval ëd Bronz’ (the Bronze Horse), at its centre. The monument shows the 16th century Italian hero in the act of sheathing his sword after the victory of San Quintino.

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Overlooking the square to the east is the 17th century Palazzo Solaro del Borgo which still retains the imprint of the original design by Castellamonte. Featuring lavishly decorated 18th century rooms, the Palazzo is now home to the Accademia Filarmonica (Philharmonic Accademy). The short, southwesterly side of the square is bordered by the Baroque facades of the twin churches of Santa Cristina and San Carlo. However, Piazza San Carlo is not as famous for its monumental appearance as it is for the important social role that it has played since it was first built. It is not therefore surprising that it is described as “The Living Room of Turin”: it was, and continues to be, a site for concerts, political demonstrations

and various social and cultural events, as well as celebrations honouring Juventus, Turin’s football team. The square is lined with an array of cafes, where intellectuals and men of culture, but also noblemen and members of the royal family, would meet. Among these, standouts include Caffè San Carlo, which opened in 1842 and was one of the favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Caffè Torino, which was patronized by Cesare Pavese and Alcide De Gasperi and Confetteria Stratta, which still boasts its original 1836 furnishings. Here, in addition to numerous sweet treats, you’ll also find traditional giandujotti, the delicious and most symbolic hazelnut chocolate of Piedmont. >> Piazza San Carlo. Map F4

PH © AURALAURA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

With its arcades, period palaces and historic cafés, Piazza San Carlo holds the record for the most elegant and picturesque square in the city. By Chiara Zaccarelli

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Allianz Juventus Stadium Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011, the year when the facility was opened. One of the most avant-garde, ecocompatible facilities in the world, in addition to being one of the two architectural symbols of modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The J-Museum, the first official football museum of the ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum.

Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897.

Off Map

Basilica di Superga Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege of 1706, the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it according to the style of the era with a colonnaded portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even more stunning when viewed from the top of the dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal apartments, you can walk around the building to see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73.

T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6.

Off Map

to the above, this must-visit museum offers a fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian and international artists. The Art Library and the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.

Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518.

Map C5

J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s best and most innovative sports museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalinfilled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, MonFri 10.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun and Holydays 10.30am7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). The ticket office closes one hours before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/ it/stadium-e-museum. Via Druento 153.

T: 011 4530486. Off Map

Lingotto This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral

The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed

by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December.

Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org.

Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280.

Off Map

GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee.

Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the most important collections of video art. In addition

Mole Antonelliana The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument of national unity. At the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe, standing at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudoGreek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree observation platform at the top of the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has hosted the National Museum of Cinema.

Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563.

Map H4

© ENRICOALIBERTI ITALYPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte Contemporanea

ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294.

Off Map

PALAZZO CARIGNANO Built between 1679 and 1684 by Guarino Guarini, this impressive Baroque building in Piazza Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Musei Reali

Musei Reali A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal Museums are one of the largest and most diverse museum complexes in Europe.

The sheer size of the complex and collections housed therein easily rival those of other major European royal residences. A unique tour devoted to history, art and nature, comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces and seven hectares of gardens.

ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the 20th century, one of whose most important sections comprises an impressive collection of 16th century arms and amour.

BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s most important cultural institutions, it houses over 200,000 books, antique maps, engravings and drawings, including Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’.

CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently re-opened after a long and complex restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin.

GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over four levels of exhibition space, the gallery showcases approximately 500 masterpieces

by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European artists displayed in chronological order from the 14th to 20th centuries.

GIARDINI REALI - Extending over approximately seven hectares of land, and located in the centre of the city, these beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history and former opulent splendour. Due to ongoing renovations, today only a portion of the garden are open for public viewing.

MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most important archaeological finds unearthed in the city and throughout Piedmont are housed in the new underground space lying adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre.

PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and frescoes. An impressive feat of significant artistic and architectural value, and the official residence of the Savoy family until 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and changed thanks to the work of several of Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists between the 18th and 19th centuries.

PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, an 18th century building that, over the centuries, was used as a residence for members of the Savoy family, house the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Museums.

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In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected.

Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens.

The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the Italian government. On-site amenities include a food court in the former Regia Frutteria. www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1.

Map F3

Museo della Sindone Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this fascinating museum documents one of the most studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed from the cross. The museum provides visitors with information about its provenance and history (from the second half of the 5th century when it became the property of the House of Savoy), as well as the various theories and mysteries surrounding it.

Other highlights include the objects and paintings displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2

Museo Egizio Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6.

T: 011 4406903. Map F4

Museo Lavazza Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with advertisements and celebrities that have become an integral part of its public image. The museum uses a circular route to focus on its creative collaborations

and famous advertising campaigns and to explore everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee production. In order to access the museum’s numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This iconic object is designed to activate the installations and unlock multimedia content across the museum.

Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm).

Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621.

Map H1

Museo Nazionale del Cinema The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most important film museums. Featuring a unique, vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary collections through an evocative, interactive itinerary. In addition to a vast film library containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it.

Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20.

T: 011 8138560-011 8138561.

Map H4

OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary culture. The venue hosts a rich program of exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical and electronic – as well as events dedicated to theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other initiatives include workshops, start-ups and presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22.

T: 011 4365832. Map G4

Parco del Valentino Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, faithful 19th century reconstructions based on the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 for educational purposes and open to the public since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind or partially sighted visitors are also available.

Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s paths. The park is always open, but the Castello del Valentino is not open to the public. The Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7

Museo Egizio

| SIGHTSEEING EDITOR’S TIP

Piazza San Carlo Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di Castellamonte, while building on the latter began in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops.

Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works

by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’.

Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713.

Off Map

Teatro Regio Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, and offers an action-packed program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it.

Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

Have you heard of Jean-François Champollion? A French archaeologist and Egyptologist and the director of the Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, he is the man who deciphered the mystery of hieroglyphics through the Rosetta Stone in 1822. It is also thanks to Champollion’s expertise that we owe the defining statement: “The road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin.”

When mentioning Turin, he was referring to its unique and extraordinary Egyptian Museum, the world’s first Egyptian museum founded in 1824, the second in terms of the value and number of artifacts (around 40,000) outside of Cairo, and the eighth most widely visited museum in Italy.

The British newspaper “The Times” listed it as one of the 50 best museums on the planet.

Despite its longstanding history and historic

headquarters – the imposing Palazzo delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating back to the 17th century – the museum is extremely modern in terms of both its layout and immersive visitor experience.

Remodelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, the exhibition space was doubled, following massive renovations, and is now spread over four levels, three above ground and one below ground, organized in chronological order.

Here you’ll find mummies, tombs, papyrus sheets and everything related to ancient Egypt (included embalmed animals) from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. If you’re so overwhelmed that you don’t know where to begin your tour, get an audio guide. It’s free and allows you to choose and personalize your itinerary to suit individual requirements. A tip?

The Restoration Area on the first floor that allows visitors to watch animal mummies being restored. >> Museo Egizio Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6.

T: 011 4406903. Map F4 www.museoegizio.it

w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 49

© FABIO MANCINO PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Turin, the city crossed by the river The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties.

T

urin was a Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city.

From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout.

Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy.

One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly located in the city centre – which house shops and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to offer shade in the summer and shelter from the rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, 50 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

With the exception of a few streets in the centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping streets), the remainder of the city is open to traffic and most landmark attractions are easily accessible by car. However, beware of access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the circulation of private vehicles and parking in the centre of the city. This restriction does not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public transport to get around the city. These include buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana).

The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway

system, extends for 13.2km and only includes one line that connects the commune of Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching the Lingotto Fiere terminus.

Turin boasts an enviable geographic position.

It is surrounded by green hills that stand 715 metres above sea level, and which, in addition to their natural beauty, also offer numerous cultural and historical attractions.

They can be reached in just a few minutes by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts.

It is therefore not surprising that the city is described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police.

If the caller does not know where he or she is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass this information to the emergency services.

Caselle Airport Malpensa Airport

OPEN PHARMACIES

Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza.

T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5.

T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station.

T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org PASSPORTS

Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10.

T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino

Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone.

Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers.

Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter.

To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino

Getting around Turin GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000.

GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm.

Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver and GTT personnel are not allowed to return objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they can be collected after 48 hours from the time of loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753.

Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 minutes on buses, trams or metro.

ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their own car and staying in a hotel in the central area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival and departure only, filling out a form at the hotel reception (ask your concierge for more information).

In the same way it is possible to reach paid public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in the same parking lot with the request for transit authorization no later than 11am.

Tourist Information TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE –

Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE –

Piazza Castello corner of Via Garibaldi.

T: 011 535181. Open daily 9am-6pm.

Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Line A to explore the city center and the hill; overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the village and the medieval fortress; Line B to access various sites including the Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting point: at any bus stop. Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language commentary.

Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines).

Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin w w w.wh e re it a l i a . com 51

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ESSENTIALS Fast train network from Turin

Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is available on the website).

One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12.

Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin to Milan Malpensa airport.

PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS

Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min.

Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including TGV services between Paris and Milan and other services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line.

TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll only pay €5 for your ticket.

Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.

Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -.

The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway.

Information desk T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com

Airports TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) -

(16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle motorway junction. The junction is connected directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. www.aeroportoditorino.it • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

• Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. www.aeroportoditorino.it CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre

of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www.aeroporto.cuneo.it • Connections to the airport BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in connection from Turin with departure and arrival of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it

© RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD

This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits.

For more information www.turismotorino.org *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.

54 W H E R E T U R I N I J U LY 2021

PH © ROSSHELEN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The most important railway station in Turin is Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, highspeed and international trains arrive at and depart from there.

Where Turin Magazine

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

5 STARS Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Map E4-5 Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 • Map F5 4 STARS Ac Hotel Torino by Marriott – Via Bisalta, 11 • Off Map Art Hotel Boston Torino – Via A. Massena, 70 • Off Map Art Hotel Olympic – Via Verolengo, 19 • Off Map Best Western Crystal Palace Hotel – Via Nizza, 11 • Map E6 Best Western Hotel Luxor – Corso Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 • Off Map Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • Map E6 Concord – Via G.L. Lagrange, 47 • Map F6 Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 Diplomatic – Via Cernaia, 42 • Map C3 Double Tree by Hilton Turin Lingotto – Via Nizza, 230 • Off Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • Off Map Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 Hotel Principe di Torino – Corso Moncalieri, 85 • Off Map Lancaster Torino – Corso Filippo Turati, 8 • Off Map J Hotel – Via Traves, 40 • Off Map Nh Collection Torino Piazza Carlina – Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 15 • Map G5 Nh Torino Centro – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 104 • Map B4 Nh Torino Lingotto Congress – Via Nizza, 262 • Off Map Nh Torino Santo Stefano – Via Porta Palatina, 19 • Map F2-3 Novotel Torino Corso Giulio Cesare – Corso Giulio Cesare, 338/34 • Off Map Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map Starhotels Majestic – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 54 • Map E6 The Originals Hotel Turin Royal – Corso Regina Margherita, 249 • Off Map TownHouse 70 – Via XX Settembre, 70 • Map F3 Turin Palace Hotel – Via P. Sacchi, 8 • Map E6 Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, 4 • Map F5 Villa Savoia – Corso Sicilia, 1, angolo Corso Moncalieri • Off Map

© CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Church of San Lorenzo