Where Milan n 97 November 2018

WHERE MILAN PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2018

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/MIL AN

Warm up winter Food, shopping and colours to beat the cold weather

150 stores offering discounts from 30% to 70% 30 minutes from Milan

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

Happy Gift Giving.

Christmas gifts for 30-70% less

Save 20% on your Shuttle bus journey* mcarthurglen.it/serravalle Show this page when purchasing your shuttle bus ticket to receive an extra 20% off your journey. Valid until 31st December.

*

Milan November 2018 52

the guide

ENTERTAINMENT

22 SHOPPING

Pisa Orologeria, a reference point for haute horologerie, has increased its offer with the ‘Salone dei Gioielli’

HOT DATES

48 DINING

6

FOCUS

10

The new Piccolo Café & Restaurant offers customers a fabulous day-long dining experience 52 ENTERTAINMENT

The Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi will celebrate Tchaikovsky with three unmissable evenings

WHERE MILAN PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2018

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/MIL AN

Warm up winter Food, shopping and colours to beat the cold weather

150 stores offering discounts from 30% to 70% 30 minutes from Milan

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

COVER IMAGE BY VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS

54 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Contents 5 POINTS OF INTEREST

18 NEW OPENINGS

Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions.

Keep up-to-date with the latest luxury openings in the city.

6 HOT DATES

20 GIFT GUIDE

This month’s round-up of shows, art exhibitions and music.

Take advantage of your stay in Milan to discover the best seasonal trends.

The Museum of Science and Technology is one of the city’s most vibrant cultural places in Milan, a dynamic workshop of ideas and creativity 59 ESSENTIALS

Information and tips to get around the city

10 MILANESE STREET FOOD 24 LUXURY

www.pressreader.com Digital magazines issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines Follow us on twitter @WhereMilan Like us on facebook.com/WhereMilan Follow us on Instagram @where_milan

TOP BRANDS

14 FASHION AND

Stroll through the Duomo district and its surroundings, and discover Brera, one of the most picturesque areas in Milan teeming with big-name brand boutiques and artisanal manufacturers.

DESIGN OUTLETS Don’t miss some of Northern Italy’s best shopping destinations offering truly advantageous discounts.

Where® brings you a round-up of the world of fashion boutiques.

44 THE BEST OF…

Watch us on YouTube

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www.magzter.com Digital magazine store

The city is awash with historic delis, gourmet take-away venues and avant-garde kiosks where you can also find numerous ethnic offerings.

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CH Min IC MORBEGNO LER VIO C E P N A O V T I OR IN VI O O IA A LE O IA M A L I T S I I A TO RE VVIAI A LARGO L. S. OL IO 35 VIA V E A OX PP VIA LU GI VIA ITALY S C in Milan, Venice, Florence MANTEGAZ SZAAVUIA PALERM TREVES AN IN HA Where® is published VNI E NA PA VIA LE MO N ES E ZI O I 44 YE RO V SC O AR NT EB EL LO I G VI A O Turin NI P I IA FRISI PIAZZA and in Rome by Tourist Media VI Z by Where®NItalia, FR AN CE L H A A VI A L L I G OT TO AN AN IN PIAZZA PI LARGO F.LLI VA VIA VA VIA FI AVLIA D E IO NOVEMBRE VI in Naples srl II O IES Comunicazione TE I TR A OBERDAN IA M GO ITO VIA VENEZIAN CERVI AL Gby MANGIAGALLI VIA ST CAsrl and VIA CAMERIN GI AT ANS 38 CA OP V ES OV ON RO IT I A I P EL V ON VI PIAZZALE AN I D RO NE RI 43 36 LEANNA A A LI ER LC DR I O SEGRINO C AVTO SE PO NO V IA SS 37 ST 40 E DI BIASI A I LARGO SA N CAM O I VIA P D A A AST BOTTICELLI AZ V VIA PIAZZA VIA STRAMBIO IM TE SS PIAZZA G BOR VIA EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS V IA F EUR OR JANEIRO PIAZZALE PIAZZA E IO RIO PDE ASCOLI GH MARIA A. AT E B VIA PA PIAZZA 39 ET T AL ENEFI VIA CAVOUR DI SAVOIA VIA LE WHERE MILAN È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI MILANO, CON 20.100 CAMERE O VI LAGOSTA S. MARCO IO R I V IA VI R AT E G. GIU V VIA INAMA ST 42 V I A 33 41 C IO VDI E L L’A F DA BRESCIA PIAZZA VIA MORETTO GH I B. TA A L L I PDEL V A BIXIO WHERE MILAN ST IALE IS AVAILABLE TA C V IAS C U R I TOEXCLUSIVE A VI R N N HOLOCAUST ET P IN MILAN'S MOST HOTELS, FOR THE GUESTS R O N O IN S V TT O R U P O OL A O 8 N C IATA RI AL IBA TIE TO LIT ECC BE V DURANTE VIA CASOREIANO VIA BIXIO LS MEMORIAL A V IA C H IA P A CA

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VIA PIAZZALE VIA P VIA ZANELLA BACONE ARACON I E INI VIA DONATELLO CORRID LSO PIAZZALE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris RCONA PIAZZA SS III FILIPPO VI VIA MA BA VIA PIAZZA E M LA I A P VI N N PIOLA A N I LIMA A D A O O S S I POR PALAZZO FA LITTA AS D VIA PRESIDENT & CEO William LO VIA S. Morris IV PIETRO GR T ’ORON V 3 VIA VERZIERE LARGO VIA O ELL RN VIA A SN BAT 45 INS. GESSATE AN REALE O TIA L VIA BONARDI U O V VITAE SA EG AUGUSTO ET 47 TIST RD V 20 E E 19 A N I VIA SANSOVINO I IDA GIU O PIAZZA PIAZZA MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning S A TO A R I PIAZZA PIAZZA LIA ELF O DIAZ V N VI G CORSO VIA CORSO PORTA VIT TORIA VIALE CORSICA XXII MARZO CORSO XXII MARZO NO O ST LLA I E A M EMILIA A R 5 GIORNATE A L 11 S. STEFANO D OS C APIAZZA PIAZZA VI ERSITA’ RA FU A UR PIAZZA VIA E C ALSA V A VIA VSTIA 46 CIN LEONARDO FON VIA VELA VIA ILI MENTANA IO FATEPBE OLICA 17 REPUBBLICA POLITECNICO O TI AU AT I TAN NESORE PL I 21 13 LLE A E DA VINCI VI V N IN 4 WVIAH E RPAERINM I L A N I NVO V E M BV IAEV IR 2018 I APIAZZA VIA NÖ AIA V IA CH VIA GUERRINI ISI VI OIA VIA LE A AL ED O V PR VIA BEZZECCA T IA ZON VIA O RI IN O ANDREANI A V BES RE RIC ALL CBAR IC C I AALVA BMISSORI E TI LANZONE ORC DE I C I V IA T VIA GIOVANNI BATTISTA PIRANESI VIA GIOVANNA CENA AS IT T DI Z ZE BR ST A N IA EN HI L LARGO VA TOI O O R OG O A I PIAZZALE VIA GIOVANNI CELORIA GIARDINI NAM A NOO S C V VIA V L PIAZZA N IA GI MARINAI O VA DE N ICO VELASCA D I FIE GUASTALLA VIA DIACONO BA MUSEO 900

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Points of interest © BEPSY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

DUOMO Milan’s cathedral is one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world. www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II An elegant four-storey arcade housing luxury cafés and designer shops known as the ‘living room’ of the Milanese. Don’t miss the Leonardo3-The World of Leonardo da Vinci exhibition (www.leonardo3.net). Map F4

Darsena, Navigli © VENERANDA FABBRICA DEL DUOMO

“THE LAST SUPPER” Leonardo da Vinci’s mural painting is one of the most famous attractions in the world. www.cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 NAVIGLI A network of canals perfected by Leonardo da Vinci and currently one of the main hubs of the Milanese “movida”.

Don't miss the Darsena, the “port of Milan”. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E6

Duomo Terraces

PIAZZA DELLA SCALA/TEATRO The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Art Museum and the premiere opera house. www.gallerieditalia.com www.teatroallascala.org Piazza della Scala. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

AMBROSIANA PICTURE GALLERY Exhibition of several works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and home to Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 BRERA DISTRICT One of the city’s most vibrant districts known for its bohemian atmosphere and trendy nightlife. Via Brera and surrounding areas.

M2 Lanza. Map F3 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations.

M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila.

Map F4-G4

Museo del Novecento

Brera Eyes Wide Open VISITOR TREASURE GUIDES The guide is available in traditional and digital editions PDF and PDP© (Proedi Dynamic Publications) www.wheremilan.com/guides

A DI OTEC PINAC

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NOW AVAILABLE! Visitor Treasure Guides

MILANO

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ntings ury pai ween h-cent t bet fifteent contras ed to nning admire dedicat a stu a may rooms feature Here we Fabriano, rche ls. ies of da tinues The ser ilia and Ma the red wal Gentile visit con ing to Em and [6] by from lud g. The works Polyptych pre d ntin e, pai by the rag al the gol eption late-Gothic d for sto m shared and use roo of sca the exc ce: a rently rpiece France t continues maste a room cur solemn spa ro della visi Pie st teenth . The through m’s mo [7] by in [8] late-six plate ce seu Virg the from to contem Altarpie ge of the the mu lled feltro ntings rria stop to pai Monte l’s The Ma remode (please ently icated Raphae ms ded century ler [9]), rec avaggio. roo large enth it Sel in the ly-sevente ] by Car gnificent The Fru ma us [10 and ear Campi’s at Emma rooms uta ing a zo includ pale blue n ved ed Vincen the Supper are next, e etia abl gs the Ven m dedicat delect around e paintin roo . The rks by h Baroqu by Rubens century wo Guardi. The ale us wit g h and to reg when the paintin eighteent lotto, nt tinues famous tto, Bel tury con mome contain ale ez’s the Can cen Hay to enth g up artists ncesco ninete , leadin with Fra to the nt works eu us adi importa a bids tec ]. s [11 Pinaco Kis The work

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

NOVEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian fashion, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

6 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

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ART

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PICASSO AND THE MINOTAUR

The Minotaur; centaurs and fauns; war and passion. These are just a few of the themes OCTOBER FEBRUARY illustrating Pablo Picasso’s fascination with the mythology, epics and representation of 2018 2019 the classical world. Antiquity in all its forms is interpreted in the mythologies re-invented by the Spanish artist.

The exhibition in six sections features approximately 200 works with paintings

by Picasso and works of ancient art including pottery, vases, statues, votive plaque, reliefs, idols and memorial stones, on loan from the Musée National Picasso, and other important European museums.

‘If all the ways I have been along were marked on a map and joined up with a line, it might represent a Minotaur.’ Based on this quotation, the aim of the exhibition is to offer visitors insight into the creativity of the famous Spanish genius, attempting to reveal the mechanisms that have placed antiquity at the heart of some of the most influential art of the 20th century.

Picasso. Metamorfosi. www.palazzorealemilano.it. Palazzo Reale, piazza Duomo.

T: 02 8929711. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 ON THE WALL: PABLO PICASSO, NU COUCHÉ (1932). PARIS, MUSÉE NATIONAL PICASSO. PHOTO: © COMUNE DI MILANO COPYRIGHT: © SUCCESSION PICASSO, BY SIAE 2018.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

PHOTO © BRESCIA E AMISANO

THE WORLD’S PREMIER OPERA AND BALLET HOUSE OFFERS A RICH PROGRAM www.teatroallascala.org

• 2 November “L’histoire de Manon”. Music by Julius Massenet.

BALLET. Teatro alla Scala Production. Conductor: Felix Korobov. Choreography: Kenneth MacMillan.

Arrangement and orchestration: Martin Yates.

• 4 PREMIERE, 7, 10, 14, 18, 23, 29 November “Elektra”. Music by Richard Strauss. OPERA. Teatro alla Scala Production, in coproduction with Festival d’Aix en Provence; Metropolitan Opera, New York; Finnish National Opera, Helsinki; Staatsoper Unter den Linden, Berlin; Gran Teatre del Liceu, Barcelona. Conductor: Christoph von Dohnányi. Staging: Patrice Chéreau.

Sets: Richard Peduzzi. Costumes: Caroline De Vivaise.

• 5 November Ildar Abdrazakov. RECITAL. Musics by Mozart, Schubert, Dunaevskij, Khrennikov, Ropartz, Kabalevskj.

Bass: Ildar Abdrazakov. Piano: Mzia Bachtouridze.

• 15 PREMIERE, 17, 20, 22, 24, 25 November “György Kurtág”. Samuel Beckett: Fin de partie scènes et monologues, opéra en un acte.

World Premiere. New Production of Teatro alla Scala in coproduction with Dutch National Opera, Amsterdam. Conductor: Markus Stenz. Staging: Pierre Audi. Sets and costumes: Christof Hetzer.

Lights: Urs Schönebaum • 26 November Michael Volle. RECITAL. Music by Johannes Brahms: “Die schöne Magelone op. 33”. Baritone: Michael Volle, with the participation of Andrea Jonasson.

Piano: Helmut Deutsch.

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THE FANTASTICAL WORLD OF SARAH

▼ Milan pays tribute to French photographer and film maker Sarah SEPTEMBER JANUARY Moon with two parallel exhibitions at 2018 2019 Armani/Silos and Galleria Sozzani.

Sarah Moon (1941), alias Marielle Hadengue, has created a unique, unmistakable visual language, a dream-like world. The exhibition at the spaces of Armani/Silos includes 170 works (from the mid-1970s to 2018) offering a sweeping overview of her photographic universe seen through a fresh perspective. On the other hand, Sarah Moon’s ‘Time at Work’ at the Galleria Sozzani features 90 works highlighting the evolution of her artistic career from 1995 to the present time, accompanied by an historical documentary about Lillian Bassman and a short film titled ‘Contacts’ (1995).

From One Season To Another by Sarah Moon. Armani/Silos. via Bergognone 40 . www.armani.com/silos Time at Work. Galleria Carla Sozzani. Corso Como, 10. www.galleriacarlasozzani.org PHOTO: COURTESY OF GIORGIO ARMANI

© CESARE MAIOCCHI

PHOTOGRAPHY

EXHIBITION

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A DIALOGUE OF ART

▲ The Pinacoteca di Brera is OCTOBER JANUARY celebrating the 2018 2019 completion of the new layout of its rooms with a special exhibition focusing on the differences and similarities in the painting styles of two masters of Naturalism: Ingres and Hayez. Important loans, including the “Portrait of Madame Gonse” by Jean-AugusteDominique Ingres, the “Portrait of Selene Taccioli Ruga” by Francesco Hayez and the gypsum bust of Anna Maria Virginia Buoni by Lorenzo Bartolini highlight the vision of women in the 19th century and their roles in society, illustrating different approaches to the interpretation of naturalism.

On Ingres and Hayez. A different look at mid-19th century women.

Pinacoteca di Brera. Via Brera, 28. www.pinacotecabrera.org 8 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

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JAZZMI 2018

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FEBRUARY 2019

ENTERTAINMENT

REALITY IS A DAYDREAM ▲ “Reality is never as you see it: the truth is above all imagination”. The pictorial world of René Magritte (18981967), the famous surrealist master to whom this innovative multimedia exhibition is dedicated, is embodied in these words. At the ‘Cathedral’ of Milan’s Fabbrica del Vapore, visitors will find themselves surrounded by images, sounds, music, ideas and special effects whose aim is to reconstruct the atmospheres and subjects of Magritte’s paintings.

An experience midway between imagination and reality.

THE BRAZILIAN SIDE OF PIANO

▼ After the resounding success of “Carioca” (2007), pianist, songwriter and composer Stefano Bollani makes his comeback to the NOVEMBER Milanese music scene with his latest album “Que Bom”, featuring a blend of Brazilian acoustics and distinctive, masterful melodies. A part of the JazzMi program, the concert also stars Brazilian musicians Jorge Helder, Jurim Moreira, Armando Marçal and Thiago da Serrinha.

Stefano Bollani, “Que Bom”. Conservatorio di Milano - Sala Verdi.

Via Conservatorio, 12. www.jazzmi.it

Inside Magritte. Fabbrica del Vapore. Via Giulio Cesare Procaccini, 4. www.insidemagritte.com

© VALENTINA CENNI

OCTOBER 2018

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Exhibition with new discoveries: codices, machines, paintings and drawings

The World of leonardo da Vinci Milan, Piazza della Scala at the entrance of Galleria

Open daily, 9:30 am-10:30 pm | Info: 02.495.199.81 | www.leonardo3.net

Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Milanese

street food Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia

10 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Milan was one of the first Italian cities to rediscover the appeal of street food. Nowadays, the city is awash with historic delis, gourmet take-away venues and avant-garde kiosks where, in addition to traditional dishes from all the regions of Italy, you can also find numerous ethnic offerings.

By Chiara Zaccarelli

The trend was imported from America, where hot dog and hamburger vendors have become almost iconic thanks to films and TV series and, prior to that, offerings from Asia, the Middle East and North Africa, where traditional food is not generally served at elegant restaurants but at market stalls. It is here that ravioli, fried foods, noodles, ramen, kebabs and all types of sandwiches have found their true home. However, street food is not a new idea.

The ancient Greeks and Romans cooked and sold food, especially fried fish, on the streets.

Evidence of street food purveyors was found by archaeologists who unearthed the wellpreserved remains of traditional ‘thermopolia’ – the forerunners of today’s food stalls during excavations at Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Moreover, it’s important to remember that so-called ‘street food’ is a part of the heritage

© PORCOBRADO

with calf’s spleen and lung), but also ethnic dishes like falafel, Chinese ravioli, bao, tortillas, hamburgers and noodles. Here is our pick of the best places to savour street food in Milan.

THE FORERUNNERS In the area around the Duomo, the street food phenomenon is nothing new. Milan launched the trend, starting with Luini, a bastion of historic Milanese street food. Located in a small cobbled street behind Piazza Duomo, it has been baking stuffed savoury pastries known as ‘panzerotti’ since 1949. In addition to the classic tomato and mozzarella version – still its most popular offering – you can also opt for other fillings (www.luini.it). Standing in a queue or watching people sitting on the pavement and tucking into these piping hot delicacies is all part of Milan’s best take-away ritual. Another famous Milanese classic is Giannasi. Known as the ‘king of roast chicken’, this sidewalk kiosk, located in the Porta Romana district, has been serving Milan’s best roast chicken since 1967. Marinated in a secret herbal mix

Porcobrado

of Italy’s culinary tradition, which from north to south boasts an infinite number of local specialties. Because these foods were created to offer poorer citizens nourishing items at affordable prices, they are particularly filling and, until a short time ago, associated with junk food. Recently, however, with the advent of the slow food movement and the re-evaluation of territorial culinary identities, they have been rediscovered and elevated to the status of a national culinary tradition.

In Milan, in particular, curb-side eating has assumed specific connotations. Despite being anchored to local regional specialties, it reflects the city’s international standing. If you’re hungry at any time of the day or night and happy to sit on a stool, or eat standing up, you’ll find numerous delicacies, many of which you’ve probably never tried before. These include ‘arrosticini’ (traditional skewered lamb from Abruzzo), ‘arancini’ (Sicilian rice balls stuffed with ragù, or ham and cheese, coated with breadcrumbs), ‘olive all’ascolana’ (fried green olives, stuffed with mince meat), ‘pane ca’ meusa’ (a specialty from Palermo consisting of a soft sesame roll hollowed out and stuffed

IN THE “PANINO” WE TRUST Awarded ‘Best Sandwich’ at the European Street Food Awards 2017, Porcobrado’s ‘panino’ recently took up permanent residence in Milan. Visitors to the trendy Isola district can now taste this Cinta Senese pork sandwich with sun-dried tomatoes and truffles on Tuscan Verna grain bread, accompanied by homemade sauces (www.porcobrado.it).

LùBar

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS © LWTIC

10 Grams

Ravioleria Sarpi

for 24 hours, before being broiled, its savoury smells draw throngs at lunchtime. It also serves roast potatoes, lasagna, tripe, fried cod and other local specialties. Here too, the queues are fairly long and there’s nowhere to sit (www.giannasi1967.com). Another trailblazer in the street food industry was Mangiari di Strada. Located off the beaten tourist track, it’s worth making the journey to Lorenteggio, in the southwest suburbs of Milan, to try its numerous local, regional and even international specialties. Highlights include ‘bombette di Alberobello’(cheese stuffed pork rolls), ‘mozzarella in carrozza’ (gold-crusted fried mozzarella), fried brain, ‘pane ca meusa’, tripe, ‘arrosticini’, pastrami sandwiches and hot dogs with sauerkraut. The menu is so vast that you’ll be spoilt for choice! You can either eat on-site,

Gnoko-On The Road

10 Grams

in the large dining room, or in the courtyard.

However, before sitting down, make sure to place your order at the counter because, in keeping with the best street food tradition, there’s no table service and the venue is only open at lunch (www.mangiaridistrada.com).

ETHNIC JOINTS The Milanese are big fans of ethnic and, in particular, Asian food. In addition to a wide array of Chinese, Japanese, Thai or Korean street food, the city also offers a fabulous selection of Middle Eastern fare. Among the Asian options, an absolute must is Maido.

Boasting three branches in the city – all of which are fairly central (in the Tortona, Sempione and Isola districts), it serves typical Japanese street food. Maido is renowned

for being one of the few places in the city that serves a really good Okonomiyaki, a Japanese savoury pancake, topped with a variety of condiments. You can either enjoy it on-site at one of the eatery’s few tables or order it as a takeaway. Bab, in via San Marco, is another great place where you can sit on a stool and taste authentic Korean street food including ‘kimbàb’ (algae and rice rolls filled with vegetables, meat or fish), noodles and ramen. Over the past few months, Hawaiian food has taken Milan by storm. Several locales offering traditional ‘Poke’ (a rice and raw seafood salad enhanced with a choice of ingredients including mango, algae and avocado) are opening across the city. One of the first was I love poke, which now has three branches, in Duomo, via Tortona and via Filzi (www.ilovepoke.it). If you’re a fan of middle-eastern flavours, head to Nun, in the Porta Venezia area, which offers customers the option of customizing their ‘kebabs’. Prepared using 100% Italian meat, you can choose your bread, filling, sauces or condiments, or opt for their ‘sabich’, a typical Israeli sandwich which consists of pita filled with slices of fried eggplant, hummus, spicy harissa, hard-boiled eggs, boiled potatoes and basil or mint leaves.

Nun also serves really great falafel (www. nunmilano.com). Located in the heart of

‘Gnocco fritto’ is a fried dough parcel, served with charcuterie, cheese or vegetables. In Milan, it can be purchased from Gnoko, a small take-away kiosk in the Città Studi area, via Tiepolo 1 (www. facebook.com/pg/gnokoontheroad).

12 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Milan’s Chinatown, Ravioleria Sarpi is a go-to destination renowned for its utterly delicious, freshly prepared meat-filled ravioli, dumplings and stuffed Chinese crepes. A perfect example of high-quality fusion street food, Ravioleria Sarpi merges the art of Chinese cooking with prime Italian ingredients including pure, unbleached organic flour, free-range eggs and meat from the historic Sirtori butchery, located next door to the shop.

CHIC JOINTS The star on the menu at high-end restaurants, the truffle is not an ingredient that people generally associate with street food. And yet, there’s a place in Milan where this precious tuber is now available. At 10 grams, starters, ‘crostoni’, tartare, eggs and even a simple paper cone filled with French fries, which can be eaten while strolling through the nearby streets of Brera, are enhanced with a sprinkling of truffles.

At this tiny locale, outfitted with only a few tables, the service is fast (but it’s not fast food) and the prices affordable (www.tengrams.it).

They’re called ‘bombe’ or ‘bomboloni’ and they’re a classic of Italian ‘pasticceria’. The delicacy in question is a sphere of fried, leavened dough, revisited in a contemporary key and also served in a savoury version.

Bomba, a small space with only a few tables, is the brainchild of multi-award-winning chef Niko Romito. Located in a prime position in the Corso Como neighbourhood, the locale serves deliciously light doughnuts filled, among other things, with pork and mustard, or endive, pine nuts, raisins, olives and tomato confit. An absolute must is the venue’s ‘bombamisù’, a tiramisu doughnut (www.nikoromito.com/progetti/bomba).

Originally conceived as an itinerant food vendor, on an ape car, LùBar traded in the nomad life for a bricks and mortar existence.

Its owners first opened a kiosk at the Central Station and subsequently a real restaurant at the Gallery of Modern Art. Despite moving up in the world, its owners have remained true to their original Sicilian street food origins. If you happen to find yourself in the Central Station, head to the terrace on the mezzanine floor where you can take a break and sample different versions of bite-sized Sicilian ‘arancini’ or ricotta-filled cannoli, imported from Sicily and fried while you wait (www.lubar.it).

‘HEALTHY’ JOINTS Healthy street food. We bet you never thought you’d see these two words in the same sentence. Well, believe it or not, street food can be both healthy and tasty. No one knows this better than Plato, a new restaurant that has made so-called ‘superfoods’ its religion.

Maido

In addition to serving them on-site, it takes them around the city on an electric food truck.

Ingredients boasting extraordinary properties that are generally found on our tables, including broccoli or blueberries, or more exotic ones like goji or moringa berries, are used to make cones of crudité, extracts, scented waters, herbal tea biscuits and ‘Veli’, thin dough rounds made with special types of gluten-free, yeast-free flours, filled with superfoods, all in street-food versions (platomilano.com). Another itinerant ape car that you might see while wandering around Milan is StraBerry, a farm business, located 15km from the centre of Milan, that cultivates berries and then sells them in various strategic parts of the city. In addition to fragrant punnets of blueberries,

strawberries and raspberries, they also sell fruit juice and jams (www.straberry.it). Lastly, just steps from corso Vercelli, not far from the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Fru Eat kiosk sells fruit salads, smoothies, ice cream and cakes, with a few concessions to savoury offerings including sandwiches and salads.

You can either order them to take away or eat them at one of the venue’s small outdoor tables (www.facebook.com/FrueatMilano).

Bomba by Niko Romito

StraBerry and Giannasi 1967 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 13

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets. Don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations that offer discounts year-round.

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

TORINO?

FoxTown

BERGAMO BRESCIA ?

?

Serravalle Designer Outlet 14 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

VENEZIA

Mantova PIACENZA Serravalle Outlet Village Designer Outlet

FERRARA

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VENTIMIGLIA

MAR ADRIATICO

Castel Guelfo BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet

MAR LIGURE PISA

FIRENZE The Mall

?

LIVORNO

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality, combining the finest expressions of fashion and luxury, entertainment and tourism.

• WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. Daily shuttle service from Milan city centre (pick up point from Piazza della Repubblica).

• WHAT: guests can find a selection of Italian and international brands at prices reduced by up to 70% off the recommended retail price – seven days a week, all year round. More than 120 boutiques: Missoni, Jil Sander, Le Silla, New Balance, P.A.R.O.S.H., Sergio Rossi, The Bridge, Vivienne Westwood and many more.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village’s selection of

Designer Outlet

?

Fidenza Village

?

TRIESTE ? Noventa di Piave

VERONA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

?

MILANO Scalo Milano Outlet & More

?

ALESSANDRIA

Torino Outlet Village

Palmanova Outlet Village

? Factory Stores

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the region’s famous Docg PESCARA wines but also offers a unique shopping FOXTOWN FACTORYCORSICA STORES experience: Franciacorta Outlet Village - top An outlet store on the Swiss border, FoxTown international brands and discounts of up to uses the popular US-style “Factory Stores” 70% year-round.

ROMA formula: practically all the best designer labels • WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway at factory prices (from 30% to 70% less). and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-Be-Mi and • WHERE: just 20 km from Lugano and 50 km MAR exit TIRRENO at the A4 junction. Daily shuttle service is from Milan. Take the Milano-Lugano motorway available from Milan (see page 16). and exit at Mendrisio. Daily shuttle service is NAPOLI • WHAT: visit the Land of Fashion: available from Milan (see page 16).

160 stores featuring your favourite brands with • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than discounts of up to 70% year-round: Adidas, 250 top brands (including Armani, Burberry, Baldinini, Beretta, Borbonese, Braccialini, Brooks Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Guess, Michael Kors, Brothers, Calvin Klein, Loriblu, Nike, Patrizia Pepe, Montblanc, Nike, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Pinko, Pollini, Puma, Twin Set, Tommy Hilfiger, SARDEGNA Valentino), 1 casino, 7 bars and restaurants, Tru Trussardi and many others. an exchange office, a touristic info point and various Tax Free refund points. www.foxtown.com • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: discover a land full

restaurants offers local products based on Italian DOC-classified ingredients of the highest quality, prepared as seasonal dishes or tasty snacks for a relaxing break. www.fidenzavillage.com

Franciacorta Outlet Village

Fidenza Village

FoxTown Factory Stores

of taste and visit the famous Franciacorta wineries with our daily shuttle service.

and Fashion areas Mon-Wed 10am-8pm and Thurs-Sun 10am-9pm. Food area 10am-10pm.

www.franciacortaoutlet.it

scalomilano.it

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan.

• WHERE: situated in Locate di Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a Zani Viaggi free shuttle service from the Central StationPiazza Duca d’Aosta (M2-M3 Centrale FS) and from largo Cairoli (M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza): Thurs-Fri-Sat-Sun, 11am and 2pm (40 min. travel time). www.zaniviaggi.com • WHAT: it hosts 130 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Karl Lagerfeld, Fratelli Rossetti, Baldinini, A. Testoni, a Ferrari store and 20 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Cassina, Poltrona Frau…), as well as new collections and discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on items purchased here. Open daily: Design

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle is located just 50 minutes. away from Milan’s city center.

Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice.

• WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia.

From the railway stations of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can catch a shuttle bus running every day from 9am to 8.20pm. A convenient shuttle bus service runs 7 times a day from 4 locations in Milan: Central Station and Foro Bonaparte (see page 16) and from Piazza Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires. Buy your ticket on line at McArthurglen/Serravalle.

• WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands – Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss,

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei and many more… – for up to 30-70% less all year round. Serravalle combines an easy-to-reach location with a relaxing atmosphere and multiple services, including free Wifi, multilingual staff, a children’s playground, café and restaurants for a perfect shopping experience at unbelievable prices!

McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan, in the province of Novara, this is the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day’s shopping.

• WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan (see page 16).

• WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices of up to 70%.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it

Vicolungo The Style Outlets w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 15

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T: 02 867131.

M1 Cairoli-M2 Lanza. www.zaniviaggi.it www.livemilano.com C ENTA E I T RA U MAG V N M U CORSO AGENTA BAIAMONTI A NE L IA I N VI IA C E VIA ME L I B DELLE MA TA DEL V VIA M R L M V GROSSI VIA V E A A V CORDUSIO .

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[ W H AT ' S N E W I N T H E C I T Y]

New Openings Pandenus

Delvaux Heritage Belgian luxury leather goods label Delvaux has chosen the heart of Milan’s Quadrilatero della Moda to open its first Italian boutique, in the city’s prestigious Palazzo Reina. The architectural concept of the space features a skillful combination of 20th century Milanese decorative elements and references to Belgian creativity. Nested amidst hidden courtyards and historic ‘palazzi’, this distinctive bijoux boutique is set against a backdrop that expresses the aesthetics and tradition of the Belgian brand to perfection. A pioneer in the world of luxury leather goods, Delvaux was founded in Brussels in 1829, and invented what we know today as the ‘bag’. Since 1833 it has been the official supplier to the Belgian Royal Court. www.delvaux.com. Via Bagutta, 10/12. T: 02 76006923. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Boasting another five branches in the city, renowned café and bakery Pandenus has just opened its sixth and most futuristic space amidst the skyscrapers of Porta Nuova. Located on the ground floor of the Coima Building, its 220 square meter interior and 150 square meter outdoor area are designed to accommodate up to 170 guests. Geared towards a hip, cosmopolitan clientele, this trendy venue is based on an eco-friendly, sustainable concept.

In addition to classics like breakfast and brunch, the menu features a selection of Poke (the famous Hawaiian rice and fish speciality) and an aperitivo list of signature cocktails. At dinner, the locale is transformed into the ‘Bistrot by Bartolini’ with a menu offering several renowned classics re-imagined by starred chef Enrico Bartolini. www.pandenus.it. Piazza Gae Aulenti.

T: 02 653805. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

© ANTINORI

RED Feltrinelli

A. Lange & Söhne Historic manufacturers of high-end mechanical timepieces, A. Lange & Söhne has opened its first Italian boutique at the Flagship Store of Pisa Orologeria. “Pisa Orologeria has shared a part of Lange’s history since the 1990s. In 1996, it was one of the first to believe in the potential of the brand and initiate a productive relationship.” This is one of the first destinations in the world to showcase the new boutique design developed by the German brand which chose an approach inspired by Bauhaus principles, featuring a combination of art and technology. The space was created using materials that reflect the German brand’s deep-rooted ties to its country of origin. www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 18 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Feltrinelli’s latest RED outpost, a bistro/ bookstore combining a love of culture with a passion for food, has opened in a historic 20th century building in Brera’s Corso Garibaldi.

Spread over more than 350 square metres on two levels, the space features a combination of typical turn-of-the century Milanese design and contemporary materials. A small inner space, reminiscent of the courtyards found in typical, old-world Milanese ‘banister houses’, is dedicated to foreign language novels. The venue offers a selection of 11,000 books with the best of the cultural offer carrying the laFeltrinelli trademark. Even the bistro features a themed menu. Each dish is accompanied by a literary quote or a reference to the novel that inspired it. www.lafeltrinelli.it Corso Garibaldi, 1. M2 Moscova. Map E3

© PLUS PRODUCTION

Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ® Italia

Campomaggi Established in the Eighties by designer Marco Campomaggi, this brand of artisanal bags has revamped its standalone store in Corso Como.

An important restyling developed in collaboration with Ibrigu, a Made in Italy clothing company specializing in the manufacture of precious fabrics.

A partnership that focuses on both the aesthetics of the space and the product. In addition to the Campomaggi 2019 autumn/winter collection, featuring the Celestina line – an assortment of distressed leather items interpreted in different materials – visitors to the store can also purchase a special Ibrigu capsule collection, designed ad hoc for the occasion.

Highlights include exquisite fabrics originating from Japanese kimonos handmade according to traditional techniques. www.campomaggi.com Corso Como, 1. T: 02 62086904. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Antonelli Firenze

CHOCOLATE EXPERIENCE

© GABRIELE FANI

Florentine clothing company Antonelli Firenze has opened its first flagship store in Milan. Located just steps from the fashion district, the store is spread over 150 square metres on two floors and has two large window displays overlooking Corso Venezia. The store’s architectural concept was developed in keeping with the brand’s stylistic codes, an aesthetically pleasing blend of simple, clean-cut lines and unostentatious luxury. The dominant colour of the space is white and all the materials used, including raw slate and grey quartzite, have been left in their natural state.

Other eye-catching interior décor elements include the space’s dark grey fishbone oak flooring. Antonelli Firenze offers a total look for women featuring a discreet, no-frills quintessentially Made in Italy elegance. www.antonellifirenze.com Corso Venezia, 12. M1 Palestro. Map G4

To coincide with the reopening of its Sunday brunch season, the Four Seasons Hotel Milano has unveiled the new theme of its Chocolate Room which changes on a seasonal basis.

The hotel’s famous ‘room of marvels’ is entirely dedicated to chocolate. In past years, themes have included Disney’s ‘Ratatouille’, a chocolate factory and a tropical forest. This year, the room features a combination of geometric shapes, pop and tape art elements and 3D installations obtained using a ton of Valrhona chocolate. Other highlights include an interactive sound wave wall filled with chocolate desserts and a copy of the famous ‘Needle, Thread and Knot’ statue by celebrated artists Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, all made from chocolate. The Chocolate Room can be visited during Sunday Brunch or booked for private events, chocolate tastings, breakfasts or afternoon tea. www.fourseasons.com Via Gesù, 6/8. T: 02 77081416. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 19

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

◄ VALENTINO This men’s Valentino multicolour camouflage print cashmere and silk scarf for the fall/winter 2018-2019 season adds a touch of casual chic to any ensemble. For an unconventional, edgy romantic look. www.valentino.com

GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through Milan to treat yourself to an accessory, a fragrance, a jewel or some other alluring detail of style.

Where brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

FOR HIM

®

Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia

▲ BOGGI MILANO This techno fabric and tumbled leather City rucksack has a front pocket, a zip closure and adjustable shoulder straps. A practical, contemporary, 100% Made in Italy product. www.boggi.com

20 W H E R E M I L A N I N MO AYV E2017 M B E R 2018

► PETTINAROLI Featuring gilt-edged ivory paper, the brand’s beautiful 2019 planners are available in 6 different colours.

These exquisite collector’s items are several of the treasures on sale at Pettinaroli. www.fpettinaroli.it www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com

► SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Classic Derby lines in an elegant, modern version. The lightly hammered calfskin features a semishiny finish with a nuanced color for a refined look. Ideal to complete your casual outfits with a touch of style. www.ferragamo.com

► ARMANI A classic, timeless model perfect for everyday looks or special occasions, these pointed-toe pumps made from metallic wet-look leather are the quintessence of elegance. www.armani.com

▲ BULGARI The ‘Diva’s Dream’ necklace pays tribute to the iconic divas of our time. With its exclusive openwork design, inspired by the magnificent fan-shaped mosaics of the Baths of Caracalla in Rome, this line pays homage to Bulgari’s prestigious, historic tradition. www.bulgari.com

FOR HER

◄ AHAVA From the new ‘Apple of Sodom’ line developed at the ‘Ahava Dead Sea Laboratories’, this 24h moisturizing cream contains a revolutionary Botox-like extract that visibly tightens the contours of the face, for visibly younger, smoother skin.

Available at Rinascente Piazza Duomo. www.rinascente.it

▼ DIEGO DALLA PALMA Three new ‘Made in Italy’ products to enhance the natural beauty of hands, face and lips: ‘Baby-doll nails’ for a full colour, ‘Nudissimo’ matte-instick lipstick and a compact powder foundation to give your face a natural, fresh and even appearance. www.diegodallapalma.com

▼ DOLCE&GABBANA The new ‘The Only One’ eau de parfum stems from a combination of violet and coffee giving life to an enchanting floral scent. The peach hue of the fragrance, the essence of sophisticated femininity, reflects the radiant allure of the perfume. www.dolcegabbana.it

▼ GUCCI Boasting a retro-inspired shape, this new burgundy leather shoulder bag with gold finishes is characterized by an enameled tiger’s head and interlocking ‘GG’ logo on the front. Available in five versions: burgundy, white, black or dark green leather and teal crocodile. www.gucci.com

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SHOPPING .C E T R R A V E L E

The Salon of desires Pisa Orologeria, a reference point for haute horlogerie, has increased its offer of desirable objects with the inauguration of the ‘Salone dei Gioielli’ dedicated to the universe of diamonds. By Giulia Minero

T

he winds of change are blowing in the Quadrilatero! The Flagship Store of Pisa Orologeria has strengthened its ties with the world of haute joaillerie following the opening of its ‘Salone dei Gioielli’, a new area where jewelry take centre stage. The second floor of the store – an airy, light-filled, 100 square meter space – reflects the inimitable style of the Pisa brand based on the criteria of understated elegance and painstaking attention to quality and detail. Circular wood and metal vitrines showcase creations by Boucheron, Chaumet, Chopard, Messika and Tamara Comolli, while a satellite space – the Salotto de Grisogono – is dedicated to the jewelry of the eponymous Geneva-based maison. In addition to well-known international brands, the ‘Salone dei Gioielli’ 22 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

also features the creations of Pisa Diamanti, which has become a real brand of high-end jewelry characterized by clean-cut lines and minimalist settings to enhance the qualities of the gemstones, from the purest diamonds, to the myriad nuances of coloured stones. In addition to rings and solitaires, the jewelry displayed at the ‘Salone dei Gioielli’ includes tennis bracelets, earrings and diamond studs, all based on the same aesthetic concept: the guarantee that each creation is a unique piece. “Pisa Diamanti is the evolution of our relationship with our female clientele” explains Chiara Pisa, the CEO of Pisa Orologeria. However, there’s also good news for their male counterparts. The ‘Salone dei Gioielli’ also offers a selection of creations for men including diamond cufflinks and Chevalier rings.

>> Salone dei Gioielli c/o Pisa Orologeria Via Verri, 7. T: 02 762081.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

The

Guidelines MAJOR SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers.

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS

T: Telephone number M1, M2…: Underground lines MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63.

SHOPPING

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 24,000 merchants are located in Milan. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as the Rinascente department stores, Value Retail outlets, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in the Entertainment section, because they are considered as meeting places.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants.

All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

DISTRICTS

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Located in the heart of the city, and known by the locals as the ‘Living Room of the Milanese’, the Galleria is considered the oldest shopping arcade in the world. This stunning feat of architecture is lined with some of the world’s most famous fashion and designer stores (including Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Versace), landmark restaurants and cafés. Other innovative additions include a hotel and the ‘Highline Galleria’, a new highline walkway giving access to the Galleria’s rooftops. Map F4

CityLife

NEW The area between Parco Sempione and Fieramilanocity, the former historic hub of Milan’s fairgrounds, has been given a makeover thanks to one of the most iconic urban redevelopment projects in Europe. Today, the district is home to residential and business complexes designed by archistars like Zaha Hadid, Arata Isozaki and Daniel Libeskind. In addition to the above, this futuristic area now hosts the brand new “CityLife

Duomo One of Milan’s most well-trodden shopping routes starts at the Piazza del Duomo with the renowned department store Rinascente, offering wide range of fashion items under one roof, sand continues onto Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, the pedestrian street lined with the most popular brand-name stores. Map F4

Quadrilatero della Moda An exclusive destination for luxury shopping, the Quadrilatero is situated just a short distance on foot from the Duomo. This quaintly cobbled quadrangle of streets is bounded by via Montenapoleone, via della Spiga, via Gesù, via Borgospesso, via Santo Spirito, via Sant’Andrea and via Manzoni. The Quadrilatero is a reference point for the most prestigious Italian and international fashion stores, where all the big designer names and most luxurious stores in the world converge. Map F4

Brera The heart of the Milanese ‘movida’, Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city.

One of the city’s most picturesque areas, its streets are lined with studios, stores selling canvases and paints, antique shops, art galleries and window displays showcasing fashion items, accessories, jewelry and design objects. Today it is a hub of ‘haute parfumerie’, populated with big-name brand boutiques and artisanal manufacturers who create customized fragrances. Map F3-F4

Porta Nuova Located around Stazione Garibaldi, Porta Nuova is Milan’s trendiest, most avant-garde district. Its focal point is piazza Gae Aulenti a masterpiece of contemporary architecture and design. Stretching from piazza XXV Aprile and Corso Como to the Isola district, it offers an array of shops, locales and new openings. Map F2

Cordusio Young, more affordable brands can be found in via Torino (Map F5), one of Milan’s oldest streets which connects the Duomo to corso di Porta Ticinese and the Navigli (canals). Formerly home to the workshops of goldsmiths and artisans, it is now lined with numerous shop windows showcasing young, trendy clothing. The “5vie Art+Design” district, home to historic artisanal workshops, arty concept ateliers, showrooms and art galleries is within close proximity. Via Dante (Map E4), a pedestrian street lined with shops and bars where you can sample an aperitivo or eat lunch while sitting outside, runs between piazza Duomo and the Castello Sforzesco.

Manzoni 24, style and craftsmanship

A contemporary space in the heart of Milan’s historic centre that blends in perfectly with its stylish surrounds in the city’s viby fashion district.

A warm, welcoming venue and the perfect place to be inspired, admire and naturally try on the various fur designs on display.

Luxe collections of clothing, accessories and homeware for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Easy-to-wear garments featuring impeccably tailored lines in which even the noblest furs are adapted to suit a young, contemporary style. Diverse materials meet and give life to new trends: quilted jackets pair perfectly with fur, fur enhances cashmere and the unexpected becomes a fashion item.

In the photo: a cloud blue cashmere coat paired with a mink melange gilet with a silver fox collar. www.condorpelli.it Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395. Map F4

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23

Luxury shopping

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

● Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique

Luigi Verga Orologi ●

● Gobbi 1842 ● Rocca 1794

● Orologeria Luigi Verga

● Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan ◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 T: 02 76317726

◗ Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521

◗ Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25 T: 02 8057447

◗ Gobbi 1842 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536

◗ Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

◗ Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449

24 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2018. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics.

SHOPPING

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury top brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com Via Montanapoleone, 18. T: 02 76003095.

M3 Montenapoleone, Map G4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com Via Verri, corner of via Bigli (Temporary until November 2018). T: 02 76022478.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Via Montenapoleone, 27/a.

T: 02 76024495 • Maison Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea, 15. T: 02 77878115.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/c. T: 02 76015982.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 CHANEL—www.chanel.com Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 77886999.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84.

T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 DIOR—www.dior.com. Via Montenapoleone, 12 (Women). T: 02 76317801. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 77123711.

Map F4 • Corso Venezia, 15 (Man).

T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 26 (Woman). T: 02 76001155.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • via della Spiga, 2 (Accessories). T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila.

Map G4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com.

Via Montenapoleone,

An iconic model referencing BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’s athleisure style, these washed suede sneakers are enhanced by calfskin inserts that add a touch of textural contrast.

27. T: 02 76318356.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via Montenapoleone, 2 (and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 76003234.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8597991. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map G4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76003495.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 HOGAN—www.hogan.com Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4 ISSEY MIYAKE—www.isseymiyake.com Via Bagutta, 12. T: 02 781040. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map G4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 45481770.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 LORO PIANA— www.loropiana.com Via Montenapoleone, 27.

T: 02 7772901.

M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta. T: 02 76003555.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • c/o la Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 55028800.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 PRADA—www. prada.com. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65 (Woman). T: 02 876979. • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 (Man).

T: 02 87211450. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 (Woman).

T: 02 7771771. Via Montenapoleone, 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Sun 10.30am-7pm).

T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com Via Gesù, 3. T: 02 798588.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TRUSSARDI—www.trussardi.it Concept Store: Piazza della Scala, 5.

T: 02 80688242. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 76006182.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

VERSACE—www.versace.com Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Boasting years of experience in the production of small Map G4 • Galleria leather goods, this season’s must-have by STEFANO RICCI Vittorio Emanuele is a crocodile document bag, handcrafted according to the II. T: 02 89011479. time-honoured techniques of Florentine leather working.

M1-M3 Duomo.

Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25

SHOPPING

1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings.

Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

26 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Corso Buenos Aires Served by three subway stops (line 1 Porta Venezia, Lima and Loreto), this long, straight crowded road is packed with an array of shop windows showcasing the wares of over 300 international ready-to-wear brands. Reputed to be Europe’s longest shopping street with over 1.5 km of window displays, it offers shopping for all tastes and all budgets: sophisticated boutiques, alternated with trendy stores offering a variety of merchandise and numerous bars for a quick snack. Its side streets abound in restaurants, many of which are ethnic. A Saturday afternoon favourite with Milanese shoppers of all ages.

Map H2-H3

Navigli The Navigli is a widespread network of canals whose history is linked to Leonardo da Vinci.

Today, the historic southern district is most made up of pedestrian-friendly streets bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots, markets selling all kinds of wares and intimate wine bars.

One of the hubs of the Milanese ‘movida’, this is an absolute must-visit. Map D6-E6

Magenta A residential area inhabited by Milan’s upper crust, it extends from piazza Cadorna to piazza Piemonte, and epitomizes the traditional soul of the city. This district is renowned for some of the best shopping addresses in town, including clothing, footwear and home décor. Map C4-D4

ACCESSORIES Alviero Martini 1ª Classe Thanks to the iconic Geo map, the brand’s Italian style is recognized all over the world. Handbags, high-end leather goods, travel collection, shoes and soft accessories. There are also clothing collections for men, women and children. Highly sought-after accessories for refined travelers.

Open daily 10am-7pm. www.alvieromartini.it.

Via Verri, corner of piazza Meda. T: 02 76008002.

M1 San Babila. Map F4

Angela Caputi Giuggiù The brand is renowned throughout the world.

Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television

© DANIMISRA

Tax Free Refund Guide

Shopping District”, the largest urban area in Italy dedicated to shopping (Metro 5, Tre Torri stop). www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it Map C2-C3

High-quality fabrics A reference point for beauty and high quality, the sartorial fabrics of Valli Tessuti Alta Moda can be found at number 2, via Verdi, just 20 metres from Teatro alla Scala. Its expert staff will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear. These fabrics are inspired by the patterns of the most upto-date haute couture collections. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. www.vallitessuti.com. Via Verdi, 2. T: 02 76001986. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

FIND US It’s easier than ever to visit us.

We run a convenient shuttle bus service from Milan city centre.

Go online for more information and to book.

PINKO RRP 553€ OUTLET 365€

FURLA RRP 291€ OUTLET 189€

C O U N T D O W N TO

PATRIZIA PEPE RRP 158€ OUTLET 103€

Christmas All the gifts on your list, at 30-70% less

TWIN-SET RRP 339€ OUTLET 221€

Visit our Guest Services on arrival and save a further 10% off purchases.

TAX FREE SHOPPING

RAY-BAN (OUTLY) RRP 152€ OUTLET 119€

With Christmas right around the corner, it’s the perfect time to start your shopping at Serravalle Designer Outlet.

Indulge in sought-after designer brands like Armani, Coach, Versace and many more at 30-70% less. Fill their stocking with irresistible gifts and treat yourself at the same time.

Non-EU residents can enjoy a tax refund on products purchased in our centre.

Visit our onsite Tax Refund Office for more information.

BLACK FRIDAY EVENT 23 – 26 November

GUESS RRP 129€ OUTLET 79€

COACH RRP 350€ OUTLET 129€ CARLO PAZOLINI RRP 255€ OUTLET 166€

BLUGIRL BLUMARINE PRICE ON REQUEST

mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

FASHION PASSPORT

Join us for four days of exclusive special offers on an array of designer brands and save even more on outlet prices.

SHOPPING and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am1pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com.

Via Madonnina, 11. T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza.

Map F4

Borsalino Historic Italian company synonymous with “hats” the world over. Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an artisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon-Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Furla Contemporary luxury and a discreet, elegant style. A wide assortment of exclusively “Madein-Italy” items: bags, footwear, belts, luggage, costume jewellery and jewellery. A perfect example of time-honoured Italian artisan tradition. The chain has other stores in Milan.

Open Mon-Sun 10am-8.30pm. www.furla.com.

Piazza Duomo, 31. T: 02 89096782.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Mandarina Duck On entering the flagship store, customers can take a journey into the history of the brand and learn about its past (its walls are covered with images referencing the brand’s 40 years of history), while simultaneously discovering the season’s latest trends and admiring its iconic collections of bags

and backpacks. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.mandarinaduck.com. Via Fiori Chiari, 1 corner of via Brera. T: 02 89093926. M2 Lanza. Map F3

Rodo Rodo is the acronym of Romualdo Dori, the person who founded it in 1956. Beginning with the production of wicker bags that were the height of fashion during the Fifties in Florence, today, 2016, Rodo celebrates sixty years of presence on the international market. Six decades of sophisticated creations for modern women, in the name of the finest craftsmanship. Shoes, bags, accessories and fine leather goods with recognizable features such as woven details, metal finishings and embroidered crystals. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rodo.it.Corso Matteotti, 14. T: 02 84928436.

M1 San Babila. Map F4

Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

28 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Franciacorta Outlet Village: amidst art, colours and shopping

Art returns to the Land of Fashion with must-see exhibitions of contemporary art.

“Art is for everyone!” is the title of the solo show by Romero Britto, known for his portraits of showbiz personalities and the next exhibition of Mr. Savethewall. From the colours of art to that of shopping, Franciacorta Outlet Village is a go-to destination for shopping and entertainment, interpreted in the joyful colours of a fun fair which acts as a backdrop to the playful A/W campaign. More than 160 shops showcasing Italian and international brands including Tommy Hilfiger, Doriani Cashmere, Angelico, Beretta, Brooks Brothers, Gant, K-Way, Partrizia Pepe, Pinko, Ixos and Twin-Set for clothing, Under Armour, Plein Sport, Adidas, Nike, General Store: New Balance-Superdry, The North Sails and Salomon for sport, and Tru Trussardi, Pollini, Borbonese, Braccialini, Baldinini, Loriblu, Roncato, Piquadro for footwear and accessories. Noteworthy new arrivals include Flavio Castellani, Caractère, Cinzia Rocca, Romeo Gigli, Elena Mirò, Champion or Sunglass Hut. The Village can be accessed from Milan via a convenient Shopping Shuttle that departs daily from at 11am and returns at 6.30pm (€20 booking on line: www.zaniviaggi.it) from Largo Cairoli. Travelers on the Shopping Shuttle will be eligible to receive a One Day Card, a loyalty card offering additional discounts on outlet prices. The outlet also offers visitors an opportunity to visit one of the region’s fabulous local wineries aboard the Shopping Shuttle. Highlights include a guided tour of the winery, a wine tasting session and a chance to meet the winemakers and learn about the process (€49).

November’s winery of the month is the La Montina wine estate in Monticelli Brusati.

For more information visit www.franciacortaoutlet.it

SHOPPING Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera

Luigi Verga Orologi

V. B

elfi ore

A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, IWC, Panerai, Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, Tag Heuer, Dietrich and Pomellato jewelry.

The internal workshop provides high qualified watch repair and maintenance services. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/ 3pm-7pm. www.vergaorologi.it Corso Vercelli, 19 M1 Conciliazione-Pagano T: 02 48198656

● Luigi Verga Orologi

O F F I C I A L R E TA I L E R

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no-frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via Verri, corner of via Bigli (Temporary until November 2018). T: 02 76022478.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

32 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Several locations: Galleria Passarella 2-Corso Europa, Corso Vercelli 23/25, Corso Magenta 2, Corso Buenos Aires corner of via Caretta 1, Largo Augusto 3, Via Maddalena 9-Corso Italia, Corso di Porta Romana 76, Stazione Centrale-Piazza Duca d'Aosta. www.boggi.com. Flagship Store: Piazza San Babila, 3 (T: 02 76000366. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-8pm).

M1 San Babila. Map G4

www.condorpelli.it. Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am8pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. Piazza del Liberty, 2.

T: 02 782065. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Nobili

NEW At its new temporary store in the ‘Quadrilatero della moda’ offering discounts of up to 70 % until 31 December 2018, Nobili boasts fashion-forward cashmere knitwear for women and men. Its luxurious, sophisticated Manzoni 24 garments, also designed for warm weather A stylish location in the heart of the city where wear, are entirely produced in Italy. In addition customers can discover all the elegance of its to a series of ‘made-to-measure’ pieces for all uber-luxe fur collections. Sophisticated creations seasons, Nobili is renowned for using superior for those who appreciate modern style and natural yarns, including Italian cashmeresilk and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Its specialized 100% Scottish cashmere. The company recently staff is on-hand to suggest the look best launched ‘Nobili cashmere Parfum’, a unique suited to each and every customer’s individual fragrance infused with the essence of cashmere requirements. Open 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. which has already received resounding success. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.nobilimilano.

‘Sveva’ medium leather shoulder bag by ORCIANI. it. Via Manzoni 40-42 (Showroom: In grained leather with multigalvanic finish chain Via A. Manzoni, 43. T: 02 36752870. decoration on flap’s outline and adjustable handle.

Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-6.30pm).

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3

Copyright Compass Maps Ltd. (UK). © 2018. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map and guide may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by CM Cartographics.

Luxury shopping

SHOPPING Featuring understated yet voluminous shapes, these rings from the ‘Iconica’ collection pay tribute to POMELLATO’s goldsmithing tradition.

Stefano Ricci Spread over 300 square metres on two floors, Stefano Ricci’s via Gesù boutique features hand polished briar-root wood furniture and white Italian travertine floors reflecting the unmistakable style of this Italian luxury menswear house. Boasting over 60 boutiques and 21 in-shops throughout the world, this Florentine brand combines Made-in-Italy luxury with the classic, timeless style of Italian sartorial tradition. This flagship store is the brand’s second boutique in Milan. The first, opened in 2009, is located, together with its showroom, in the Principe di Savoia hotel.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. www.stefanoricci.com. Via Gesù, 3.

T: 02 798588. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTERS 12 The Brian&Barry Building San Babila A 12-floor “vertical dream”, starting from the basement and spiralling upwards to the 9th floor, hosting the ASOLA | Cucina Sartoriale restaurant helmed by chef Matteo Torretta, and the 10th floor featuring a terrace/lounge space. The megastore will host a series of different high-end products and services including clothing, food, cosmetics, design objects, jewellery and watches. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.thebrianebarrybuilding.it.

Via Durini, 28. T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila.

Map G4

CityLife Shopping District

NEW The new CityLife Shopping district, the largest urban shopping centre in Italy, is located in a redeveloped urban area that once housed Milan’s historic fairgrounds.

Developed in collaboration with archistars like Zaha Hadid, Arata isozaki and Daniel Libeskind, CityLife is one of the largest urban redevelopment projects ever conceived in Europe. In addition to integrating residences, offices, public parks, outdoor spaces and service facilities, the district hosts 100 shops and eateries: fashion, accessories, cosmetics, wellness, home décor and hightech are the star players of its exclusive commercial offer. Open daily 9am-9pm. www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it. Piazza Tre Torri. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2

Excelsior Milano

Seven floors of exclusive brands, in the heart of Milan, ranging from fashion to beauty; from food to design. Among these, worthy of particular note is Eat’s Store, a food market conceived for a discerning clientele which offers a restaurant divided into three areas: elegant “take-aways”, “fast” bistrot fare

and, finally, “slow” tasting experiences.

The ground floor, overlooking Galleria del Corso, offers a Design Bar, a Beauty space and Tiffany’s shop-in-shop… plus Valextra, Ladurée and a flower corner. Luxury designer brands showcased include Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and Givenchy. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www. excelsiormilano.com. Galleria del Corso, 4.

T: 02 76307301. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Il Centro One of the largest shopping mall in Europe, Il Centro boasts over 200 shops and boutiques - devoted to fashion, accessories, gifts, homeware, high-tech, leisure, beauty and wellness - 25 restaurants, a diagnostic centre, a sports centre and few play areas for kids.

Designed by the internationally renowned architect Michele de Lucchi, it has been inspired by the ancient Lombard courts.

Located just 20 minutes from the centre of Milan, it is easily accessible from the Stazione Centrale via a convenient shuttle service (pick up point Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta – ticket on board 5 € return or www.zaniviaggi.it). Open daily 9am-10pm. www.centroilcentro.it. Via Luraghi, 11 – Arese (MI). Off Map

FASHION OUTLETS Il Salvagente Established in 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest established outlets: a comprehensive offering of high-end fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off. This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of city shopping but with far more palatable price tags! Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16.

Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 76110328. www.salvagente.com. Map H4

YOUR FASHION OUTLET IN THE HEART OF MILAN G RATIN CELEB40

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Rinascente

MUST-SEE A fabulous department store overlooking the Duomo, a real part of Milan’s history. 10 storeys with a refined and contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design.

Rinascente Food & Restaurants on the 7th floor features a Food Market brimming with rare delicacies, all origin controlled. It also offers visitors a choice of as many as nine bars and restaurants designed to cover the entire spectrum of taste (open 7 days a week until midnight; dedicated entrances also on via Santa Radegonda, 1 and via San Raffaele, 2. T: 02 8852471). Open seven days a week: from Mon-Thurs 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am10pm; Sun 10am-9pm. www.rinascente.it.

Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 02 88521.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Scalo Milano Located approximately 20 minutes from downtown Milan, this is a hub of fashion, food, design and much more. Boasting approximately 130 stores on one level (with the exception of the Food Court which has been designed as an arena below the street level) this City Style District promises a unique shopping experience. It can be quickly reached by car or via the S13 Railway link (‘Locate Triulzi’ station). Open Mon-Thrus 10am-8pm; Fri-Sun 10am-9pm. www.scalomilano.it. Via Milano, 5 (Locate Triulzi). T: 02 90470350. M1 San Babila.

www.salvagente.com Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16 | T: 02 76110328

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SHOPPING JEWELLERY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet The boutique welcomes customers into a warm, elegant atmosphere where they can savour the spirit of the Maison of Le Brassus, the oldest makers of Haute Horlogerie still owned by the founding family. Though this is one of the brand’s smallest venues it nevertheless showcases the four collections of Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Millenary and Jules Audemars. Here visitors can also admire the special editions created for Audemars Piguet boutiques throughout the world together with several complicated pieces. Upon request, the boutique offers a worldwide delivery service.

Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 02 76003115. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4

of interactive, thematic films. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.breguet.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 19. T: 02 76007756.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Breguet

Bulgari

This historic brand, synonymous with excellence and technological innovation, shares its exclusive Milanese venue with lovers of the creations of high-class horologerie, by presenting an extensive collection of unique timepieces and jewellery. A scenographic staircase with marble walls leads to the second floor where, in addition to its display cases, visitors are invited to discover everything that they’ve ever wanted to know about Breguet’s workshops at the store’s virtual room which offers the screening

Among the most noteworthy names in the world together with Cartier and Tiffany, since the very beginning, Bulgari has been a reference point for luxury jewellery. It also carries watches, fragrances, accessories and small table items.

Its most famous collection is the “Bzero1”, originally crafted in gold and subsequently embellished with diamonds and precious stones.

Open Mon 11am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone, 2.

T: 02 777001. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Cartier In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is also famous as a luxury maker of watches, second only in the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design and technology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellished with details in gold, platinum and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier.it. Via Montenapoleone, 16/A corner of Via Gesù. T: 02 3030421. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

Chopard

An exclusive autumn at Vicolungo The Style Outlets!

This is the ideal destination for lovers of shopping. The autumn/winter collections of more than 300 brands of men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, accessories, homeware and cosmetics, with year-round discounts of from 30% to 70% on the retail price, await you at the outlet’s 150 boutiques. Thanks to its offer of big-name brands including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Dolomite, Quiksilver, Under Armour and Odlo the centre is also the favourite shopping destination of sports enthusiasts.

Additionally, lovers of fashion and food can combine an afternoon’s shopping with a gourmet lunch thanks to the Glamour & Gourmet Experience. This unique package includes a delicious menu at the Cannavacciuolo Café & Bistrot in Novara, plus return tickets to and from the Vicolungo outlet with daily departures from the centre of Milan.

Located just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport, the centre is easily accessible by car (A4 motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). Vicolungo The Style Outlets is the nearest outlet to the Lombardy capital and is connected to the centre by a convenient shuttle service which departs daily at 10.30am from Milano Cairoli.

Indulging in a break at one of the centre’s numerous bars or restaurants is a great way to end your day’s shopping spree. Vicolungo The Style Outlets offers its customers numerous services including tax free shopping, free Wi-Fi access and a personal shopper on request.

Lastly, by presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price, at participating shops.

For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

34 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

The Swiss brand, famed throughout the world for its refined timepieces and jewellery collections, has opened the doors of its recently refurbished boutique in via della Spiga. The ground floor houses the Chopard Uomo collection, with one space, in particular, dedicated to the LUC, 1000 Miglia and Manifacture collections. In fact, the new Milanese Chopard boutique is the only one in the world to boast a Men’s Room of this kind.

The first floor is home to the accessories room, a room dedicated to its Women’s collections and a VIP room featuring the Maison’s most exclusive pieces of high-class jewellery and haute horologerie. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.chopard.com. Via della Spiga, 14.

T: 02 76394950. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with the innovative spirit.

Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed by Antonio Citterio. A welllighted space displays all the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are admired throughout the world for their jewelry to be realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Daniela De Marchi-DDM

Situated just a stone’s throw from the Duomo, Atelier daniela de marchi - ddm is an evocative location where jewellery collections are designed and handcrafted. Located on the ground floor of an historic building, it serves as a perfect backdrop to the designer’s creations: jewels rendered unique by the patented “Dropage” technique in silver, bronze, brass and semiprecious stones covered in different colored enamels. The Atelier is an iconic destination for

the savvy radical chic Milanese élite. Tues–Sat 10am-7pm. www.danielademarchi.it. Via dei Piatti, 9. T: 02 86995040. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori.

Map E5

Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995,

by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dodo.it. Corso Matteotti, 9.

T: 02 49524750. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Gobbi 1842 Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference point for refined jewelry just expanded by adding the brand Fred to the wide handcrafted Gobbi collection, and timepieces, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor. You will get the same fine assistance that the Gobbi family has been providing its clients for the last six generations.

The upper-floor laboratory provides quick, top quality, watch repair and maintenance service.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gobbi1842.com.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76020536.

M1 San Babila. Map G4

Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique Ideally located in the heart of Milan’s “Golden Fashion Triangle”, Jaeger-LeCoultre opened its first Italian boutique in keeping with the spirit of invention and creativity which has set this reference brand of Haute Horlogerie apart in

PHOTO © ALESSANDRO BENCINI

SHOPPING the field of watchmaking since 1833. Featuring an elegant, low-key interior, this exclusive space harmoniously blends the best of design and contemporary materials with an Art Déco style, a period in which the Swiss watchmakers created the legendary Reverso. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am7.30pm; Sat 10.30am-8.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76281376. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, Baume&Mercier, Montblanc, Panerai, Tag Heuer, Dietrich, TCM, Pomellato and Pomellato 67. Luigi Verga Orologi also prides itself on its after-sales service and boasts an on-premises UNI EN ISO 9001: EDITION 2008 certified repair workshop. www.vergaorologi.it.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Corso Vercelli, 19. T: 02 48198656. M1 ConciliazioneM1 Pagano. Map C4

Orologeria Luigi Verga A point of reference for high-end watchmaking collectors and lovers managed by the Verga Family since 1947. The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar Piguet, Eberhard & Co., Panerai, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor and Hublot. Its certified upper-floor workshop provides high-qualified watch repair and maintenance services. www.luigiverga.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-

Stylish creations

Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s innovative, elegant jewels are the perfect addition to the wish list of every woman.

Featuring a blend of art and fashion, her creations are characterized by a continuously evolving creative process.

Also known by the nickname Giuggiù, the Florentine designer has become a byword across the globe. Her stunning creations have been showcased at several of the most important museums worldwide. The creative heart of Angela Caputi’s bijoux is her workshop in Oltrarno, located in the picturesque Florentine district. Each and every one of her sought-after designs is handcrafted in Italy.

This season, the Italian jewelry designer presents a collection whose elegance, sobriety and rigorous shapes and colours reference a French-inspired style. Called ‘Pied de poule’, the collection is characterized by unusual geometric shapes in which grey is paired with white and black. At the same time, these bijoux in synthetic resins can be interpreted as daring, unconventional elements that break with tradition because they play on strong contrasts between ‘pied de poule’ and ‘a pois’ (always in white and black) prints, or highlight a detail of bright red interspersed with transparent geometric elements. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 (Brera district).

T: 02 86461080.

M2 Lanza. Map F4

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SHOPPING PANDORA

NOBILI See page 32.

1.30pm/3pm-7pm. Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo).

T: 02 8056521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 • Open Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. Via V. Capelli, 6 (Piazza Gae Aulenti). The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tudor, Pomellato and Montblanc. T: 02 6595775.

M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

PANDORA’s contemporary, hand-finished jewelry, crafted in high-quality materials and available at affordable prices is sold in more than 100 countries worldwide. In addition to rings, earrings, necklaces, pendants, bracelets and charms, its most iconic piece, launched in 2000, is its composable bracelet of the ‘Moments’ collection.

Featuring a variety of more than 700 charms, it is designed to maximize the individual style of every woman. Launched in 2013, instead, the ‘Pandora Essence Collection’ is characterized by symbolic stones and colours. The main PANDORA Stores in Milan are located in via Torino, corner of piazza Santa Maria Beltrade (open daily 10am-8pm.

T: 02 70109909. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5), and in corso Buenos Aires, 33 (open daily 10am-8pm.

T: 02 87034093. M1 Lima. Map H2). PANDORA has two other mono-brand stores in Milan, in the commercial districts of ‘Piazza Portello’ and the ‘CityLife Shopping District’, and two shop-inshops at the Coin department stores in piazza 5 Giornate and corso Vercelli.

Patek Philippe Boutique

by Pisa Orologeria The boutique represents further proof of the perfect harmony between the Pisa Family and the Patek Philippe brand, as well as their common determination to offer clients an environment of excellence for the Geneva masterpieces. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Mon 10.30am-7pm.

© MAURIZIO FRAQUELLI

www.patek.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081.

M1 San Babila. Map G4

Piaget Iconic Haute Horlogerie and Joaillerie brand Piaget has recently unveiled its first Italy-based boutique in the heart of Milan’s fashion district.

Its elegant 250 sq.m. location on two floors is decorated with oak wood flooring and paneling and gold-leaf covered chests illuminated by Murano glass lanterns. The whole effect is further heightened by a gold-leaf mosaic pattern which frames a window display visible from the main entrance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.piaget.com. Via P. Verri, 10.

T: 02 32164701. M1 San Babila. Map F4

Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store A watch lover’s paradise for over 70 years.

A ground-breaking expansion project involving the addition of 1,000 square metres dedicated to forty brands that have made the history of Haute Horlogerie, from the A of Audemars Piguet to the Z of Zenith. Prestigious timepieces with particular attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Open Mon 10.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.pisaorologeria.com.

Via P. Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique The Pisa family has always been a forerunner in the world watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. The collaboration between the Pisa family and the Rolex brand goes back over 70 years.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pisaorologeria.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 24. T: 02 76317726.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Pomellato Established in 1967 and handcrafted by expert goldsmiths, Pomellato collections include vibrant coloured stones set in gold, irregular cuts and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17.

T: 02 76006086. M1 San Babila.Map G4 • Via Montenapoleone, 17. T:02 76014530. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Rocca 1794

Paradise of luxury and elegance At FoxTown Factory Stores Mendrisio - just 50 km north of Milan and only 20 km south of Lugano (Switzerland) - 160 stores offer the most prestigious brands at prices discounted from 30% to 70% all year round. Amongst the famous labels carried are: Armani, Bally, Prada, Burberry, Coach, Hogan, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Michael Kors, Polo Ralph Lauren, Swarovski, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, YSL, New Balance, Guess and some 240 other brands. FoxTown is open daily, 11am-7pm (except 1 Jan, 1 Aug, Easter and Christmas & Boxing day). Furthermore there are a Casino, 7 bars and restaurants and a Tourist Info Point.

A Tax-Free Shopping service is available and payment is accepted by major credit cards: Union Pay, Visa, MasterCard, JCB, American Express, Visa Electron, and more.

Shuttle bus service by Zani Viaggi at 10am or 1pm (www.zaniviaggi.it). www.foxtown.com

36 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Master jewellers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Cartier, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling, JaegerLeCoultre, Tudor. Rocca guarantees outstanding levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy. Open Mon-Sun 10.30am-7pm. www.rocca1794.com. Piazza Duomo, 25.

T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Ronchi Opened in 1929, it has become a prestigious reference point for watch lovers the world over, always combining a passion for high-end watchmaking with a love for refined jewellery and ongoing research on fashion-forward and classic trends. Among the most prestigious brands: Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5.

T: 02 877449. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

[RINASCENTE]

One-stop shop

The best shopping in Milan

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE

For your shopping, in the shadow of the Duomo, head to the Rinascente flagship store.

10 storeys featuring a refined, contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design.

Constant new arrivals from the most prestigious brands and emerging talents allow shoppers to find both timeless classics and the latest fashion trends.

The basement floor houses the Design Supermarket, a floor devoted to design in its multiple expressions featuring a slew of articles carrying the signature of the greats of national and international designer: Alessi, Pantone and loads of others besides.

The ground floor is a true emporium of beauty and prominent fragrance brands, featuring not only corners and a staff of expert makeup artists but also the jewellery area hosting precious collections of high jewelry.

Conversely, the Balcony houses the luxury accessories of famed and fabled Italian and international brands.

The store’s range of menswear fashion starts on the first floor (floors 1 and 2), where you can find the innovative Sneakers Zone featuring more than 400 products by 23 different brands, while the 3rd and 4th floors are given over to women’s fashions (including the must-visit footwear area).

The 5th floor is dedicated to lingerie and children’s fashion.

Continuing upwards, you’ll reach the 6th floor devoted to homeware collections while the 7th floor houses the exclusive Food Hall hosting various themed restaurants (My Sushi, Obicà Mozzarella Bar, Il Bar, Juice Bar, Maio Restaurant, Be Steak, De Santis, Champagnerie Moët & Chandon and Corallo Lobster Bar) and the Food Market, where you can purchase any number of

international delicacies. Discover the Wine Shop: at this unique space dedicated to the finest wines on the Italian and international scene, you can taste and purchase the products of world-class producers.

Visitors love this floor as it is the ideal place to find luxury food gifts and, what’s more, a fab panoramic terrace featuring a spectacular view over the spires of the Duomo.

Try the exclusive On Demand Service, a dedicated instant messaging service to make shopping easier: the personal shopper who finds your favourite product in store and deliver it directly to your house.

Now available also on WeChat.

T: + 39 3440081600. ondemand@rinascente.it >> Rinascente - Piazza Duomo www.rinascente.it. Open 7 days a week.

T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37

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A metropolitan outlet village located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan, it hosts 130 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Karl Lagerfeld, Fratelli Rossetti, Baldinini, A. Testoni, a Ferrari store, and 20 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Cassina, Poltrona Frau…), as well as new collections and discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round.

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Open Mon-Thrus 10am-8pm; Fri-Sun 10am-9pm.

Locate di Triulzi (Mi). scalomilano.it

The new flagship boutique reveals the world of this contemporary fine jeweler featuring exclusive collections, carefully selected by expert gemologists. Salvini’s pieces are characterized by the use of only the highest quality precious stones, expertly crafted by master goldsmiths from Valenza, home to some of Italy’s best-qualified jewelry artisans. Class and sophistication combined with the finest Italian tradition are the main features of all its unique products, dedicated to a modern woman in the simplicity of daily life. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 12 noon-7pm. www.salvini.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 25/3. T: 02 76340375.

M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4

Tiffany & Co. This world-renowned jeweller has ten boutiques in Italy: Milan, Rome, Venice, Verona, Florence and Bologna.

Located in the heart

of Milan, it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with the tradition of its famous New York counterpart founded in 1837. www.tiffany.it. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-8.30pm.

Piazza Duomo Flagship Store. T: 02 89094202.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 19/A. T: 02 76022321.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open MonSun 10am 8.30pm. Shop in Shop c/o Excelsior Milano. Galleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76280561.

M1 San Babila. Map G4

Vacheron Constantin The Vacheron Constantin flagship store at the multi-brand Pisa Orologeria boutique offers an overview of the extraordinary world of this Swiss manufacturer, an icon of watchmaking excellence for the past 260 years. The ‘Satellite’ area, dedicated entirely to the Geneva-based brand, is located at the entrance of the store.

True to its heritage, the space captivates visitors with its meticulous choice of materials, minimalist elegance and welcoming atmosphere.

Open Mon 10.30am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.vacheronconstantin.com – www.pisaorologeria.com.

Via Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4

Define your eyes with LANCÔME’s ‘Hypnôse Palette’. This versatile eye-shadow palette offers a natural daytime look or seductive smoky eyes for the evening.

38 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Van Cleef & Arpels Respect for the past, a taste for beauty, a

passion for travel and a search for harmony are the underlying values that the Maison has continued to uphold since its creation in 1906.

Values which though never losing sight of contemporary styles nevertheless continue to encourage an ongoing dialogue between those who create the jewellery and those who wear them. A timeless recognizable style defined by elegance, femininity and creative audacity are the hallmark features found in all the collections of this historic brand. For a century Van Cleef & Arpels have been fusing inspiration and technical prowess into creations embodying expertise, ingenuity and talent. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.vancleef-arpels.com.

Via P. Verri, 10. T: 02 7767951.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

LEATHER & LUGGAGE Giosa Milano An atelier combined with a showroom in the Brera district, where the particular way to work the crocodile leather is, before being a business, a family history for about 40 years. The atelier merges the traditional working techniques of how to handle the most precious leathers with the modern and innovative way to transform them. Today Giosa Milano has become a reality bringing the finest craftsmanship and producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. Open Mon-Fri 9am1pm/2pm-7pm: Sat and Sun by appointment.

PHOTO SCALO MILANO © DAVIDE SALA

Salvini

SHOPPING www.giosamilano.com. Vicolo Ciovasso, 1.

T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza.

Map F4

Il Bisonte At its boutique in via Santo Spirito, Florentine leather goods house Il Bisonte offers customers its full range of luxury items. Its beautifully handcraft bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomize the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. Located in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, in addition to exquisite wood, the brand’s trademark cowhide leather has been used to upholster the furniture and as a decorative element of the store’s interior décor.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ilbisonte.com. Via Santo Spirito, 14.

T:02 76003014. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

For this season, EMPORIO ARMANI suggests an elegant choker necklace made from enameled steel with two clusters of baubles and a teardrop pendant encrusted with diamonds.

PASSION SHOPPING Baci Home & Bride A leader in the textile industry since 1992, Baci Home & Bride produces linens and ‘objet d’art’ for the home and bride’s trousseaus.

The brainchild of creative fashion designer Giulia Cirinà, the company stocks items made from premium-quality Italian fabrics, based on Florentine artisanal traditions which can be customized and made-to-measure. The collections – featuring classic, modern, shabby chic, romantic and minimalist styles – are made

using either simple or more elaborate fabrics including jacquards, embroidered and printed fabrics and bridal lace. Best-sellers include quilts, bed covers and duvet sets, pillows and decorative cushions, bed linen, tableware and bathroom accessories, plus a selection of exclusive bridal gowns and formal wear. Worldwide shipping. www.bacihomeandbride.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 4pm-8pm. Via G. Verdi, 5 T: 348 9212390 - 348 2467519. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Chris Cerf Located in the Romanesque heart of Milan, in a period palace opposite the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, this elegant, welcoming space is dedicated to women in search of something special. Here, with the help of skilled artisans, Chris Cerf, a designer who has been engaged in sourcing precious fabrics and forgotten patterns for the past twenty years, creates unique, personalized garments. Items on offer include printed silk shirts, printed velvet coats, embroidered swimwear and printed silk or cotton dresses. Open Tues-Sat 10am/1pm-3pm/7pm. T: 335 6175013.

M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map E5

Culti Milano

Great news at Fidenza Village!

Designed to offer a panorama of architecture, cuisine, fashion and Emilian and Italian traditions, this year Fidenza Village is celebrating its 15th anniversary. To celebrate the event, it has expanded its spaces to include an outdoor project featuring myriad combinations of colours and vegetation. The main street has been re-imagined with the idea of offering visitors a sort of Grand Tour of Italy, the dream of generations of foreign travelers. Highlights include a boulevard awash with colours, decorative elements and scents that conjure up the distinctive features of Northern, Central and Southern Italy. Northern Italy is identified by cool colours like sage and olive, Central Italy by a palette of pink and terracotta and Southern Italy by hues reminiscent of the traditional sandstone used to build houses in the Mediterranean area. Furthermore, the layout of the Village recalls the shape of the Italian boot, where the piazzas, lined with restaurants and cafes with gazebos and terraces, are designed as key places for social interaction. Covered areas and plants provide shade, inviting the public to stroll and shop along the tree-lined boulevard.

Lastly, at the beginning of November the Village will be enveloped in a festive Christmas atmosphere with themed installations, allowing visitors to experience the magic of Christmas. www.fidenzavillage.com

40 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Following the launch of its historic showroom in corso Venezia 53, via Fiori Chiari 6 is the address of Culti Milano’s new Brera-based boutique dedicated to sought-after home fragrances. The store stocks the entire range of the House’s signature fragrances, characterized by its unmistakable style which focuses on quality, a careful selection of only the finest ingredients and painstaking attention to detail, to personalize both the home and the workplace with an aura of sophisticated elegance. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.culti.com. Via Fiori Chiari, 6. T: 02 36553875. M2 Lanza. Map F3

Daniele Giovani Milano A window display dedicated to covetable Made in Italy accessories for women by prestigious designer labels and emerging, trendy brands.

This must-visit boutique sells footwear, bags, bijoux and niche perfumes from several of Italy’s best-known perfume-producing districts.

In order to emphasize the key role played by an accessory in the creation of a woman’s image, the boutique offers a selection of brands including Alberto Guardiani, Antonio Alessandria Parfums, Antonio Marras, Bianchi e Nardi 1946, Borbonese, Caterina Lucchi, Giorgio Fabiani, Greymer, Ines de la Fressange, Nobile 1942 no.nu, Orciani, Padovan Milano, Pollini, Siberian Soup FullART and Vic Matié. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www. danielegiovanimilano.com. Corso Genova, 13.

T: 02 89415079. Map E5

SHOPPING

Your local Apple experts.

Come discover the new iPhone XS and enjoy Tax Free shopping.

Find us in viale Piave 38, via Mercato 22, via Valtellina 12 and CityLife Shopping District. To find out more visit www.rstore.it.

Fazzini

Libreria Rizzoli

Founded at the turn of the 20th century in the textile district north of Milan, luxury Italian homeware company Fazzini is famous for its household linens. Featuring a sophisticated design, its unique, high-quality homeware – including sheets, bedspreads, duvet covers, quilts, bathroom accessories and tablecloths – is a pure expression of superb Italian craftsmanship. In addition to its other exclusive collections, Fazzini recently released the sophisticated ‘La Perla Home Collection’. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.15pm. www.fazzinihome. com. Via Arco, 1. T: 02 36639865. M2 Lanza.

Spread out over three floors, this prime location stocks as many as 40,000 books (Italian and international). A meeting place designed to host events featuring big-names on the Italian literary and cultural scene. Boasting a warm, welcoming ambience and a sleek, contemporary design, it offers dedicated corners, themed areas manned by real librarians (not assistants) and digital instruments like, for example, videowalls designed to help customers find their way around the various areas of the bookstore, thereby further enhancing their reading experience. Open daily 9am-8pm (Thurs 9am-10pm). www.libreriarizzoli.it/rizzoligalleria.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 86461071.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Map E4

Lego® Store A unique ‘playground’ for old and young alike, the new store offers a wealth of innovative options including tables full of Lego brics in all shapes and sizes and an ‘immersion portal’ consisting of a large transparent display case that children can enter in order to get a closeup view of unique scale models created with the famous bricks. It also feature new digital elements including the Lego ‘Minifigures Scanner’, the ‘Digibox’, the largest ‘Pick a Brick’ in Italy and the monthly ‘Mini Model Build’ event. Then, a preview of Lego creator Expert sets. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.lego.com.

Corso Monforte, 2 corner of piazza San Babila.

T: 02 76001670. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Maglia Francesco 1854

UNIQUE Among the numerous examples of Milanese artisanal excellence, for five generations this brand has represented the apex of Italian luxury and craftsmanship in the manufacture of umbrellas. At this ‘atelier of umbrellas’ in via Ripamonti, time-honoured craftsmen keep alive the art of handcrafting umbrellas for women, men, children, gardens, beaches, ceremonies and special occasions, using infinite combinations of natural wood, leather, metal, inserts, fabrics and handles, in different frame sizes. One of the workshop’s specialties are its single shaft umbrellas

mounted on solid sticks and crafted in chestnut, ash, birch, Malacca, apple, maple, bamboo, cherry wood, wild cherry wood, olive, hickory and walnut. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am5.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm (by appointment).

Telephone for out-of-office appointments. www.ombrellimaglia.eu. Via Ripamonti, 194.

Tram line 24, stop ‘Via Ripamonti via Noto’ (departures from M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori, Corso di Porta Romana and Crocetta).

T: 02 55219333. Off Map

Telerie Spadari Milano A historic Milanese homeware store boasting a strong sartorial tradition. Telerie Spadari’s collections of the most exquisite fine luxury linens for the bed, bath, table, clothing and homewear include both ready-made and customizable options whose every detail, from fabrics and finishing to monogramming, can be tailored to suit your every need. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.teleriespadari.com.

Via Spadari, 13- T: 02 86460908. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map F5

The Merchant of Venice A historic brand epitomizing the Venetian art of perfume-making, has an elegant, new store in Brera. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice carries a luxury line comprising a w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41

SHOPPING Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has opened its boutique in the famed Quadrilatero della Moda, just steps away from Teatro alla Scala. A Milanese reference point that, since 1907, has offered its clientele the best Made-in-Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-a-porter and ceremony attire both for men and women but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Via G. Verdi, 2. vallitessuti.com.

T: 02 782124.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Ziio

VIBRAM See this page.

wide range of exclusive fragrances for men and women, bath and body collections, home fragrances and accessories in elegant flacons based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano glass blowers. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 80581268.

M2 Lanza. Map F4

For more than 20 years, Ziio has created jewelry made from natural semi-precious stones, Murano glass and silver. Boasting a unique, original style, inspired by the oldest cultures in the world, each and every one of Ziio’s pieces are crafted by hand. From ‘vintage’ jewelry to new collections, presented at leading fairs in the sector across Europe, to more precious, unique pieces in gold and precious stones including rubies, emeralds and aquamarines, each product is strictly Made-in-Italy. The brand’s standalone boutique is located in the picturesque district of Porta Nuova-Isola, a neighbourhood with a strong local heart where small shops cohabit side-by-side with some of Milan’s coolest hangouts. Open Mon-Fri: 10.30am-2.30pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.jewels-ziio.com. Via De Castillia, 20. T: 02 36706771. Map F1

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SHOES Alfonso Garlando Tailor-made, Italian-style shoes are the protagonists at this charming boutique in the Brera district, which offers made-to-measure shoes for ladies and brides available in hundreds of different styles and a wide array of materials.

Open Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.it. Via Madonnina, 1.

T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Fratelli Rossetti Renowned throughout the world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully handcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxury and tradition, with an added touch of originality. Beautiful and stylish to boot.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.fratellirossetti.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1.

T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Sergio Rossi Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fatale in every woman. Beautifully crafted, comfortable, eyecatching footwear designed for women in search of an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoes is checked for quality at least 120 times.

Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76006140.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Stuart Weitzman A brand specializing in comfortable, highfashion women’s footwear, it offers trendy styles, uber-luxe pumps with staggeringly high stiletto heels and evening sandals featuring the brand’s unique, unmistakable style. Creations for all seasons combing both classic and exotic materials, worn by beautiful people and fashionistas the world over. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 12am-7pm. www. stuartweitzman. com. M1 San Babila. Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 36537260. Map G4

Vibram Milan’s first and unique Vibram ® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and professionals who are looking for products of high quality and performance. The store displays the entire range of Vibram FiveFingers ® offering customers the possibility of feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together with a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all characterized by a Vibram ® sole. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/ 3pm-7.30pm. eu.vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio, 6.

T: 02 36528461. M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

STATIONERY Pettinaroli

WELCOME TO THE BEST SELECTION OF MADE IN ITALY HIGH FASHION FABRICS Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124 / 02 76001986 vallitessuti.com 42 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, since its inseption Pettinaroli has been considered a reference point for funs and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gifts items. Its boutique in the heart of Brera boasts a wide selection of maps and globes, an assortment of exclusive Italian handcrafted leather, writing paper, business cards and printed documents: the ideal location for a souvenir or collector's item. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 864646421875. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Louis Vuitton

SHOPPING

DUOMO DISTRICT & MORE

Caffè ● Piccolo & Restaurant

● Starbucks ● Peck

Neuhaus Maître Chocolatier ● ●

Lavazza ● ●

Chris Cerf ● Felice a Testaccio Fortura Giocattoli ●

Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just

a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of presentday Milan.

AROUND THE DUOMO The Duomo, per se, requires no introduction.

It is the undisputed symbol of Milan and the heart of the city. In the immediate vicinity, overlooking the various sides of the large square surrounding it, you’ll find several of

the world’s most exclusive addresses.

For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! Just a little further on, the window displays of Rocca 1794 will seduce you with their collections of several of the world’s most desirable jewellery and watch brands.

Piazza Duomo is also home to the largest Tiffany & Co. boutique in Europe. Spread over two floors of a historic 1870 building, it is located in front of the Arengario and the Museo del Novecento, by now a landmark attraction for tourists visiting the city.

TOWARDS TEATRO ALLA SCALA: THE GALLERIA Known as the ‘living room’ of Milan, the Galleria links Piazza del Duomo to piazza della Scala. For the past 150 years, it has been a meeting place for the Milanese and their guests; this explains why the venues overlooking the Galleria are go-to destinations for those wishing to soak up the atmosphere of the city.

In the Galleria, haute couture takes centre stage. In addition to Prada and Versace, other standouts include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, Borsalino, Luisa Spagnoli, Bric’s, Tod’s, Stefanel and Massimo Dutti alternated with historic workshops (whose signs serve as an indication of their storied past).

You say ‘aperitivo’ and you immediately think of Camparino in Galleria, a landmark location and a reference point where Milan’s elite meet to partake in one of Italy’s oldest social traditions! Carlo Cracco’s new locale is spread over four floors and focuses on opulent aesthetic and culinary offerings, from breakfast to post-theatre dining.

For those in search of a taste of tradition, located just nearby is Luini (renowned for

NEUHAUS MAÎTRE CHOCOLATIER In Milan, the famous school of Belgium chocolate boasts one of its most iconic brands: the Neuhaus shop is a small treasure trove where pralines – more than 100 varieties that arrive fresh, each week, from Belgium – are displayed in cases like precious jewels, alongside bars with dried fruits, whimsical letters of the alphabet and greeting cards, all made exclusively from chocolate.

www.neuhaus-cioccolato.it Via San Vittore, 6 - T: 02 72000096. M2 Sant’Ambrogio

44 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

THE BEST OF DUOMO DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

Tiffany & Co.

its one-of-a-kind “panzerotti”). Conversely, those favouring a more sought-after gourmet experience can either opt to eat at Ristorante Galleria where you enjoy a taste of Milanese food and hospitality (for generations, the Galli family has defined Milanese hospitality in the Galleria!) or at Ristorante Savini, one of Milan’s most iconic landmark restaurants, or at the Marchesi alla Scala restaurant.

Don’t miss the Lavazza flagship store, a space where coffee lovers can sample an authentic espresso and innovative coffee-based recipes.

TOWARDS THE CASTLE By walking just a few kilometers from the Cathedral, in a north-westerly direction, you’ll reach Castello Sforzesco, another of the city’s most symbolic monuments. The castle was the resident of the ruling families in Milan between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Today, it hosts several museums and one of the city’s best-loved green spaces. If you walk from Piazza Duomo in the direction of Cordusio, after passing Piazza Mercanti, you’ll come to the new Starbucks Reserve Roastery Milano, a ‘glocal’ phenomenon that combines Milanese specialties with a format that’s loved the world over. Continuing onwards along via Dante, you’ll find myriad shops and eateries designed to satisfy your every whim. For a culturalrecreational break, head to the Chiostro Nina Vinchi, at no. 2 via Rovello, where a bookstore and a new bar, offering day-long dining, provide insight into the history of the Piccolo Teatro, Milan’s premiere theatre venue. The Segway Tour Milan, an alternative means of exploring the city, starts next door, at no. 1 via Rovello. Apropos tours, remember that Piazza Castello is the departure point for Zani Viaggi’s City Sightseeing Tours on open-top coaches and the place from which the majority of shuttles depart for some of Italy’s finest outlets.

pasta, truffles, authentic Milanese risotto and TOWARDS SANT’AMBROGIO breaded cutlets, plus panettone year-round.

While the Duomo is Milan’s best-known Peck is a pleasure island for anyone who loves church on an international level, there’s to taste, but also only admire or delight in another religious site that’s just as dear to the the delectable aromas of high-quality food Milanese. The Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, which can be sampled in various forms at its Milan’s second most important church, is relaxed in-house café or luxury restaurant. dedicated to the patron saint of the city.

Other places that are well worth a visit while This building, of enormous historic and shopping in the area include Maurilio architectural value, is well worth a visit. Built Calzature, for high-quality shoes; in the 4th century A.D. and, therefore, Daniela De Marchi, who much older than the Duomo, it’s showcases her collection of located approximately one and half highly original jewelry in via kilometers from the cathedral, a dei Piatti and Fortura route that, when crossed on foot, Giocattoli in via allows you to immerse yourself in Olmetto, a centurythe most ancient part of Milan’s old toy mecca that will history. In this area, you’ll find delight young and old alike. the remains of Mediolanum, An absolute must-visit!

Roman Milan, including the Borsalino In the vicinity, there are also other Forum, the Circus, the walls and, options for lunch or dinner: Milanese cuisine in the subterranean areas of the Pinacoteca in an intimate atmosphere at Ristorante Ambrosiana, the Cardo and Decumanus.

Olmetto in via Disciplini; or, if Milan is your You only need to walk a few streets down only stopover and you’re regretting not from the areas surrounding the Duomo having tasted the stronger flavours of Roman to see a change in the urban landscape: cuisine, don’t despair, because in via del fewer shops of big-name international Torchio you’ll find Felice a Testaccio, a brands, more old-world ‘botteghe’ and a spin-off of the famous Roman restaurant. few unexpected delights. If you walk from On reaching Sant’Ambrogio, after visiting the Duomo in the direction of via Torino, the Basilica, linger a little longer and explore you’ll come to via Spadari, home to two its surrounding areas. In the same square, at cult addresses. At no. 13 you’ll find Telerie number 16, you’ll find Chris Cerf, a boutique Spadari, a reference point for tailor-made hosting the vibrant, elegant collections shirts and luxury homewear and, at no. 9, created by this well-known designer of Peck, an internationally renowned temple of Brazilian origin. Just a little further on, after gastronomy. This historic deli showcases an admiring Giulia Colussi’s artistic jewelry in incredible selection of cheeses, charcuterie, Giardino Calderini, end your tour on a high prestigious wines, fresh note and head to via San Vittore to sample or purchase the ‘chocolate gems’ created

by Neuhaus Maître Chocolatier, a mustvisit gourmet boutique selling original Belgian, handmade pralines – a totally unmissable treat!

Daniela De Marchi

CHRIS CERF

FORTURA GIOCATTOLI Boasting 104 years of history, it offers a large assortment of toys and party items, from the most traditional to the trendiest, at competitive prices. The store’s multilingual staff is always on-hand to be of service. www.fortura.it Via Olmetto, 10.

T: 02 861670. M3 Missori

Dedicated to women in search of unique, personalized items including printed silk shirts, printed velvet coats, embroidered swimwear and printed silk or cotton dresses. www.chriscerf.com Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 16.

T: 335 6175013.

M2 Sant’Ambrogio © CASOTTI

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SHOPPING

Culti Milano

BRERA DISTRICT As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric à brac should definitely make time to visit the Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held on the third Sunday of each month. The array of boutiques continues with the elegant artisan footwear sold by Iliprandi or the tailor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso Garlando.

Other points of interest include the elegant womenswear boutique Rosso35, Misani's artisanal jewels for him and for her, the original accessories by Angela Caputi Giuggiù and the unique leather accessories by the new Giosa Milano boutique in via Ciovasso, 6.

● Culti Milano Angela Caputi Giuggiù ● Alfonso Garlando ●

Giosa Milano ● ● The Merchant of Venice ● Pettinaroli

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. As you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting small artisans’ workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and paints.

EDITOR'S TIP Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting collection at the Pinacoteca, the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, the Museo Astronomico, the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino Botanico.

ART, SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting point where, amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, you'll have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference point for antique lovers, Brera boasts numerous antique shops and art galleries. Among these, Pettinaroli, just relocated from its historic headquarters near the Duomo to no. 4 via Brera, offers a wide selection of maps and antique prints.

THE PERFUME DISTRICT At no. 4, we find the new The Merchant of Venice boutique, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfumemaking offering a luxury line encompassing a wide range of exclusive perfumes for men and women contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (www.themerchantofvenice.com).

Our next port of call is via Fiori Chiari, where we find the beautiful window displays of Culti Milano. The brand also has a boutique at no. 53 corso Venezia (www.culti.com).

Other must-visits while in the area include Olfattorio Bar-à-Parfums (via Brera 5, www.olfattorio.it), Diptyque (via Brera 23, www.diptyqueparis.eu), Profumo (via Brera 6, www.profumomilano.com), the new Amouage boutique (via Fiori Chiari 7, www.amouage.com), Dr.Vranjes (via Fiori Chiari 24, http://drvranjes.it), Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (via Madonnina, www. smnovella.com), Creed (via Madonnina 17, creed.cale.it), 9Nine (via Ponte Vetero 22, www.beautysanspa.com) and Fragonard (via Solferino 2, www.fragonard.com).

GIOSA MILANO In the artistic heart of the city boasting art galleries and small artisans’ workshops, Giosa Milano La Bottega del Coccodrillo is a hidden treasure. The well-known workshop, a go-to address for luxury handmade products created with premium quality crocodile skins, has recently been given a makeover. Giorgio Santamaria is a master of this art, and oversees each stage of the process from the choice of skins to the styling and finishing of each piece. The new Giosa Milano boutique boasts unique pieces intended to satisfy each customer’s necessity, from the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza.

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THE BEST OF BRERA DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza

ALFONSO GARLANDO Since 1971, Alfonso Garlando has been creating his footwear in the name of elegance and the high quality of artisanal, strictly “Made-in-Italy” products. Today, this tradition continues in the heart of Brera with unique, handcrafted items: hundreds of styles produced using premium quality fabrics and skins, for ceremonies, evenings and elegant events but also for comfortable, everyday wear. Customers can also find a collection of ton sur ton bags, belts and clutches, that can be customized according to individual tastes and requirements. www.alfonsogarlando.it Via Madonnina, 1 - T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza

PETTINAROLI Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, Pettinaroli has, since its inception, been considered a reference point for fans and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gift items. On entering this unmistakably Milanese shop in via Brera, customers can breathe in the scent of the past, immersed in a timeless, old-world atmosphere.

They can browse amongst shelves of writing paper and exquisite envelopes, historic maps and antique prints, and find numerous items associated with the sophisticated art of writing, including several of the world’s most prestigious fountain pens, leather diaries and planners, goose quill and wood pens. This unique shop also has an unmissable section dedicated to gift items: antique globes, 19th century vintage wood printing press letters, and customizable ex-libris. The jewel in the crown of this space is the magnificent collection of prints lining the wall at the back of the shop, visited daily by aficionados from all over the world.

Today the business is run by Francesco Pettinaroli (right). Named after his grandfather, who founded the establishment, Francesco specializes in antique prints, a passion that has made him one of the world’s leading experts. www.fpettinaroli.it - www.pettinarolimapsandprints.com www.facebook.com/PettinaroliMilano Via Brera, 4. T: 02 86464642-1875. M3 Montenapoleone

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© MASIAR PASQUALI

DINING

A cultural break The new Piccolo Café & Restaurant offers customers a fabulous day-long dining experience. A unique opportunity to discover the underlying history of the city’s legendary theatre. By Elena Binda

I

n the aftermath of World War II, two visionaries decided to build a theatre. In 1947, emerging director Giorgio Strehler – who later became one of the world’s most acclaimed 20th century directors – and Paolo Grassi, an illuminated impresario, established Italy’s first Teatro Stabile with the help of Nina Vinchi, Grassi’s wife, who proved to be an invaluable administrator.

Although it was named ‘Piccolo’ (the Italian word for small), the theatre became one of Italy’s premiere theatres and a cultural centre whose aim was to stage top-level performances targeted at the widest audience possible.

Today, the Piccolo manages three venues: the main theatre, opened in 1998, called the Piccolo Teatro Strehler; the experimental space of the Teatro Studio, which also hosts the theatre’s 48 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

school and the historic headquarters, renamed Piccolo Teatro Grassi which, following renovation work, restored the magnificent Renaissance cloister to the city.

Located just a short distance from the Duomo, its arcades now host several spaces for public use including a bookshop, a meeting space, an exhibition space and a ticket office. The cloister also houses the Piccolo Café & Restaurant, open Monday through Saturday from 8.30am to midnight and on Sunday from 10.30am to 11pm.

Dining options include breakfast, lunch (from 12-noon to 2.30pm), an aperitivo (from 6.30pm onwards) or dinner (from 7.30pm onwards).

Ticket holders for performances staged on the same evening at any one of the three theatres are entitled to a 20% discount on their meal.

>> Piccolo Café & Restaurant www.piccoloteatro.org www.piccolocaferestaurant.it Via Rovello, 2 . T: 02 72333505

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Cantina Piemontese A top-level “trattoria” with a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful corner of Milan just a short distance from the Duomo.

Originally a winery with a prestigious tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. www.cantina-piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2.

T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5

Chiuma's

NEW The brainchild of Marco Chiumenti and his wife Floriana Fedeli, this new restaurant offers diners a culinary experience combining the history of Neapolitan cuisine with the creative, innovative flair of young, talented chef Mattia Susani and Sous Chef Nicola Viola, with the collaboration of Chef Fabrizio Ferrari and sommelier Davide Valerio. Elegant, lightfilled spaces create the ideal atmosphere for lunches and dinners, devoted to either business or pleasure. The well-conceived menu offers a range of contemporary and classic options characterized by high-quality ingredients and authentic flavours to suit all tastes. Open Tues-Sun 12.30am-15/7.30pm-midnight. Closed on Monday. €€. www.chiumas.it. Via Gallarate, 55/57 (corner of via della Casa) (Portello district). T: 02 3085168. Off Map

Don Lisander For more than sixty years, a fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service. The menu features traditional Lombardy and regional Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. M3 Montenapoleone.

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Galleria Situated halfway between the Duomo and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. www.ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo.

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Mieru Mieru All the warmth of a typical Puglia welcome awaits you in Milan’s Navigli district. A sort of ‘protected culinary area’ where, thanks to the hospitality offered by it owners (restaurateurs for generations), diners will feel completely at home.

It offers a menu infused with the ‘aromas of the sea and the land’, sourcing what they have to offer on a daily basis. An ideal location for those who love fresh flavours in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Those wishing to enjoy the ‘scent of the sea’ and a taste of Puglia before dinner can do so while sampling a glass of good wine

MIERU MIERU See this page.

accompanied by a tantalizing assortment of seafood snacks. Special gluten free menu.

Open Mon-Sat 7pm-midnight. Reservation for lunch. €€. www.mierumieru.it. Via Magolfa, 14.

M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7

Savini Spread out over three floors in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, for the past 150 years Savini has been one of Milan’s most iconic, landmark restaurants. A favourite haunt of several of the world’s most legendary figures, it continues to be the place where the local elite gather after a night at the opera. Credit for its enduring reputation goes to its blend of tradition and innovation, exemplified by the contemporary cuisine of Executive Chef Giovanni Bon. Its wine cellar, boasting more than 800 labels from all over the world, deserves a special mention.

Open Mon-Fri 12-noon to 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm and Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it.

Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II).

T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

PIZZA La Pizza Sapore d’Italia

NEW This artisanal pizzeria with a wood-fired oven serves mouth watering pizzas topped with a selection of high-quality Campanian and Italian ingredients. Open daily (even in August) from noon to midnight, you can even get your pizza-fix in the afternoon. Cold dishes are also available as an alternative to pizza. Its coffee and dessert are typically Neapolitan, with fresh daily deliveries from Campania. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, from June to September, the venue also serves an aperitivo (5pm-7.30pm) accompanied by delicious Neapolitan nibbles.

Advance booking is recommended (compulsory in the evening). Open daily 12 noon-midnight. €. Via Canonica, 81 (corner of via Paolo Sarpi).

T: 02 36561221. Map D2

Spontini A reference point in Milan for pizza slices since 1953, Spontini turns out thick, chewy crusts topped with melted strings of mozzarella and delicious local ingredients. It boasts 19 locations,

LA PIZZA SAPORE D’ITALIA See this page.

including traditional ‘Spontini’ (with brand’s red hallmark sign, tables and chairs), ‘Spontini Point’ (distinguished by a black sign and a formula based on eating oven-hot pizza while standing at the counter), and a delivery service.

Several locations in Milan (25 locations worldwide): Via G. Spontini, 4 (Buenos Aires district) - Viale Papiniano, 43 (San Vittore district) - Via Marghera, 3 (Vercelli district) - Via Cenisio, 37 (Sempione district) - Piazza 5 Giornate, 6 (Corso XXII Marzo district) - Via Santa Radegonda, 11 and via Dogana, 3 (Duomo district) - Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 8 (Centrale district) and more. www.pizzeriaspontini.it.

Open daily 11.45am-2.30pm/6pm-11.30pm. €.

Via G. Spontini, 4. T: 02 2047444. Map H2

TASTING EXPERIENCE Armani/Dolci Via Manzoni 31 is possibly the most glamorous address for Milanese patisserie: Armani/Dolci is a location dedicated by world-renowned designer Giorgio Armani to the world of chocolate and not only. Here you can find elegant pralines, chocolate bars, assorted dragées or fruit preserves, delightful gifts that are perfect for any occasion, also thanks to the store’s elegant, unmistakable packaging.

Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.armanidolci.com.

Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 62312686.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Cova Pasticceria Founded in 1817, by none other than one of Napoleon’s soldiers, this is one of the Milan’s oldest pasticceria, an iconic place where tradition meets elegance and style. On the occasion of the 200th anniversary, the venue has recently re-opened following a careful renovation preserving the original Cova signature look. Established as a pasticceria, it also offers a morning espresso, a Milanese-style risotto, an afternoon tea with artisanal pasticcini and pralines or an evening aperitivo. The famous handmade Panettone, signature product of Cova and a jealousy-guarded recipe, is available all year long. Open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.covamilano.com. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49

DINING Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02 76005599.

M3 Montenapoleone.Map G4

Eataly Smeraldo A cult destination dedicated to highclass Italian gastronomy: 5,000 sq.m. devoted to food and the best, locally sourced products spread out over 4 floors hosting not only 19 eateries and a starred restaurant (Alice) but also rooms for food workshops and a convention centre. Eataly has opened in the theatre space of Milan’s former legendary Teatro Smeraldo and hosts a huge stage and offers a totally free season of music. www.eataly.net. Piazza XXV Aprile, 10.

T: 02 49497301. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

illy Caffè In addition to the launch of a design store in Milan’s futuristic piazza Gae Aulenti, surrounded by spectacular skyscrapers, the Trieste-based brand recently opened a new, exclusive locale in via Montenapoleone, in the heart of Milan. The new illy Caffè has taken up residence in the elegant courtyard of a period building and is slated to become one of the city’s hottest all-day dining options where lovers of taste and art can get together to enjoy either a languid lunch or dinner, or savour tantalizing sweet and savoury offerings in a unique oasis. The store also boasts a retail corner featuring a selection of products from the illy world. www.illy.com. Open Mon-

As always, the new packaging of ARMANI/ DOLCI is inspired by the colours and prints of the designer’s fall/winter 2018/19 collection.

Wed 7.30am8pm; Thurs-Fri 7.30am-9pm; Sat 9.30am-11pm; Sun 9.30am-9pm. Piazza Gae Aulenti, 36. T: 02 65560331. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 • Open daily 8am-11pm.

Via Montenapoleone, 19. T: 02 83549386.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Lavazza Italian coffee expert Lavazza has opened its first flagship store in Milan. A go-to destination where coffee lovers can experience the very best that the world of Lavazza coffee has to offer throughout the day. This beautifully designed location offers four different experiential options: the “Caffetteria” where visitors can savor an authentic espresso, a “Slow Coffee” area to taste different types of coffee extraction systems, a “Fresh Roasted” area where precious single origins are roasted and blended on site, and the “Coffee Design” area where innovative food design meets the world of coffee in new and surprising flavour combinations, created with top international chefs. Open Mon-Thurs 8am-7.30pm; Fri 8am-8pm; Sat-Sun 9am-8pm. www.lavazza.it/flagshipstore. Piazza San Fedele, 2. T: 342 8411682. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Neuhaus Maître Chocolatier In Milan, the famous school of Belgium chocolate boasts one of its most famous brands: the Neuhaus shop is a small treasure trove where pralines – more than 100 varieties that arrive fresh, each week, from Belgium – are displayed in cases like precious jewels, alongside bars with dried fruits, characteristic letters of the alphabet and greeting cards, all made exclusively from chocolate. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm7pm. www.neuhaus-cioccolato.it. Via San Vittore, 6. T: 02 72000096. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.

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Noberasco 1908 King of dry fruit Noberasco 1908 instantly sealed its success as a reference point for discerning palates and lovers of natural tastes: its products are sourced from all over the world and include a flotilla of the rarest, most delicious culinary delights. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon 11am-7.30pm. www.noberasco.it. Via Spadari. T: 02 99201022.

M1 Cordusio, M1-M3 Duomo. Map F2

© GIOVANNI PANAROTTO

Peck

Peck, a great wine cellar All Milanese locals know that Peck is a point of reference for the most soughtafter gastronomic delicacies. For the past 135 years, it has offered a selection of the best international culinary delights as well as a vast wine cellar which houses over 3,000 bottles including some historic labels and impressive vintages. Its cellar, built up over the years with passion and dedication, is a true paradise for wine lovers. The most important wineries from every region of Italy but also from France, Spain, Germany and many other countries are showcased here. Red, white, rosé, dessert wines, ‘spumanti’, champagnes and spirits.

Every rack hides carefully selected treasures including world-class wines, aged wines, rare and large format bottles, vertical collections of some outstanding labels, plus a selection of the finest spirits. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. www.peck.it/en/great-wine-cellar

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A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanese taste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, from cured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil.

Spread out over three floors, Peck is also a great place for an unforgettable stopover.

The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through a careful selection of products from all over the world. Don’t miss the “Piccolo Peck”, a gastronomic café at the ground floor reminding a Viennese café of the 30s, where you can relax and taste several specialties. Open Mon 3pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 9am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-5pm. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Zàini Milano In 2013, historic Milanese chocolate factory Zàini celebrated its 100th anniversary with the opening of a new space in Milan. A timeless location decked out with period furniture and a counter at which customers can savour authentic cakes, hot chocolate laced with violet flowers or rose buds, sweet treats and bread and chocolate. The ideal place to taste and buy some of the best chocolate in town.

Open Mon-Sat 8am-10pm; Sun 8am-7pm. www.zainimilano.com. Via de Cristoforis 5, corner of Corso Como. T: 02 694914449.

M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Milano

FELICE A TESTACCIO Roman cuisine since 1936

Via del Torchio, 4 - Milan PHONE +39 0280506690

© GIOVANNI HÄNNINEN

ENTERTAINMENT

La Verdi performs Tchaikovsky Milan’s symphony orchestra will celebrate its ‘birthday’ with three unmissable evenings featuring performances of Tchaikovsky’s six symphonies, conducted by Claus Peter Flor. By Elena Binda

T

he highlights of Milan’s classical season will include three spectacular performances on Tuesday 13 November, Thursday 15 and Sunday 18. On these dates, which coincide with this anniversary, the Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi will treat audiences to a repeat version of the debut performance that was staged 25 years ago. At that time, the concert was held at Milan’s conservatory, under the baton of renowned Russian conductor Vladimir Delman, whose fondest wish was that the debut performance of the newly formed orchestra would be an integral recital of Tchaikovsky’s Six Symphonies, performed by the students of the conservatories of Moscow, Pittsburg and Milan. Thus, shortly after the end of the 52 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Cold War, young Russians and Americans found themselves sitting in the orchestra pit, alongside emerging Italian musicians, several of whom are still members of la Verdi. In November, this must-attend event will be held at the Auditorium in largo Mahler, the official headquarters of the orchestra. Claus Peter Flor, who is renowned for his instinctive and incisive musicianship, will conduct the concert.

Born in Liepzig, Germany, Flor currently holds the position of laVerdi’s conductor. “We are dedicating time and energy to focusing on the great German-Russian repertoire, to create a well-defined musical identity ” he explained.

“It will be a joy to perform Tchaikovsky’s Six Symphonies as a tribute to the person who contributed to the creation and evolution of

the orchestra, 25 years ago. The program will comprise three evening performances, each starting at 8.30pm. On Tuesday 13, the orchestra will perform Symphony no. 2 in C minor, Op. 17, nicknamed the ‘Little Russian’ and Symphony no. 4 in F minor, Op. 36; on Thursday 15 it will be the turn of Symphony no. 1 in G minor, op. 13 ‘Winter Dreams’ and Symphony no. 5 in E minor, op 64. The cycle of performances will end on Sunday 18 with Symphony no. 3 in D major, op.

29 ‘Polish’ and Symphony no. 6 in B minor, op 74, also known as the ‘Pathétique’. >> “The Magnificent Six” from Delman to Flor Tuesday 13, Thursday 15 and Sunday 18 November at 8.30pm. Auditorium di Milano, largo Mahler. www.laverdi.org

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APERITIVO Camparino in Galleria

SYMPHONIC SEASON › 1, 2, 4 November Verdi. Music by Giuseppe Verdi.

Requiem Mass Oleg Caetani, conductor Erina Gambarini, chorus master Erica Wen Meng Gu, soprano Yulia Mennibaeva, contralto Edoardo Milletti, tenor Yuri Vorobiev, bass › 9, 11 November Schubert & Kurtág. Music by Franz Schubert and György Kurtág.

Sylvain Camberling and Gianluca Capuano, conductors Csaba Király, piano Gerrie de Vries, solo voice › 23, 25 November Mozart & Gounod. Music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Charles Gounod.

Patrick Fournillier, conductor Elena Piva, harp Nicolò Manachino, flute › 29, 30 November and 2 December Čajkovskij. Music by Petr Il’ič Čajkovskij The Nutcracker.

Patrick Fournillier, conductor M. Teresa Tramontin, Youth Choir Master

h club›Diana Bar-foyer of the hotel Sheraton Diana Majestic, renowned for its Saturday and Sunday brunch (between 12.30pm and 3pm) and its happy hour which goes on until 10pm. From breakfast to a nightcap through all day dining and aperitive afternoon Kusmi Tea and signature cocktails, you can discover all the h club>Diana menus.

The stylish interior and stunning view of the truely iconic garden setting offered by this location make it a great place to enjoy food in every moment of the day. Open daily from 10.30am to 1am. Live Dj on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings. Brunch on Sat and Sun from 12.30 to 3pm. www.sheraton.com/dianamajestic.

Viale Piave, 42. T: 02 20582034. M1 Porta Venezia.

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Founded in 1817, by none other than one of Napoleon’s soldiers, this is one of the Milan’s oldest pasticceria, an iconic place where tradition meets elegance and style. Thanks to its strategic position, in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda, this venue is a true Milanese classic.

On the occasion of the 200th anniversary, the venue has recently re-opened following a careful renovation preserving the original Cova signature look. Established as a pasticceria, it also offers a morning espresso, a Milanese-style risotto, an afternoon tea with artisanal pasticcini and pralines or an evening aperitivo. The famous handmade Panettone, signature product of Cova and a jealousy-guarded recipe, is available all year long.

Open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.covamilano.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8.

T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Jamaica Formerly a favorite haunt of artists and poets such as Giuseppe Ungaretti, Salvatore Quasimodo, Alessandro Francesco Tommaso Manzoni, Fernando Fontana, beat generation poet Allen Ginsberg and photographer Ugo Mulas, Jamaica today hosts photographic exhibitions and cultural events accompanied by an “aperitivo” in an atmosphere that continues to retain the intellectual appeal of years gone by. Open daily 9.30am-2am; Restaurant on Wed-Thurs-Sat. www.jamaicabar.it. Via Brera, 32. T: 02 876723.

M2 Lanza. Map F3

© GMINERO_WHEREITALIA

ALL CONCERTS ON THE CALENDAR WILL BE HELD AT AUDITORIUM DI MILANO FONDAZIONE CARIPLO, LARGO GUSTAV MAHLER. www.laverdi.org

ICONIC First opened in 1915, in the early 20th century it was a meeting place for musicians, artists and men of learning, and the place that gave birth to the tradition of the Milanese aperitivo. The new modern interpretation of the famous original sign has been designed by the master Ugo Nespolo. A place where visitors can experience a true Campari “full immersion”.

Open Mon-Fri 7.30 am-8pm; Sat-Sun 8.30am-8pm. www.camparino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Piazza Duomo. T: 02 86464435.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Cova Pasticceria

SPECIAL EVENTS › 13 November THE MAGNIFICENT SIX I. Music by Petr Il’ič Čajkovskij.

Claus Peter Flor, conductor › 15 November THE MAGNIFICENT SIX II. Music by Petr Il’ič Čajkovskij.

Claus Peter Flor, conductor › 18 November THE MAGNIFICENT SIX III. Music by Petr Il’ič Čajkovskij.

Claus Peter Flor, conductor › 25 November Chopin, Schubert & Bartók. Music

by Franz Schubert, Béla Bartók and Fryderyk Chopin.

Krzysztof Książek, piano

CHAMBER MUSIC › 11 November Mozart I. Music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Domenico Nordio & I Solisti de laVerdi, violin

Two-wheel passion

The 76th edition of EICMA, the eagerly anticipated event for motorbike enthusiasts is back and for 2018 it’s looking even bigger and better than before. Better known throughout the world as the Milan Motorcycle Show, this trade fair is a unique event that sees the pavilions of Milan’s fairgrounds invaded by fans intent on checking out the latest innovations from the industry. At EICMA, major manufacturers will present their latest models, offering visitors test driving options on a thrilling outdoor track. Like the previous edition, the show will host a special space dedicated to E-Bikes, electric bikes, plus sustainable and eco-compatible mobility solutions. 8-11 November (6-7 November press and industry members). Fieramilano Rho, Pavilions 9-11 / 13-15 / 22-24. www.eicma.it

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© LORENZA DAVERIO

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

PABLO PICASSO, NUDO SDRAIATO (1932).

PARIS, MUSÉE NATIONAL PICASSO PHOTO © RMN-GRAND PALAIS (MUSÉE NATIONAL PICASSO-PARIS) / ADRIEN DIDIERJEAN/ DIST. ALINARI

Railway Pavilion

On track with science The ‘Museum of Science and Technology’ is a dynamic space that aims to inform visitors about the past of technology, showcase developments in science and participate in building the future. By Elena Peverata

54 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

Its Aero-Naval pavilion boasts a galleon, the bridge of a transatlantic liner and an America’s cup catamaran. Other highlights include the world’s most important collection of models based on drawings by Leonardo da Vinci. The over 130 models comprising the collection will soon be showcased at a permanent interactive exhibition. An unmissable event and a part of the celebrations for 2019. Lastly, one of the museum’s noteworthy exhibits is the Enrico Toti submarine, displayed in the courtyard. By purchasing an additional ticket, you can step onboard.

So, whatever you do, don’t miss the boat! >> Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci Via San Vittore, 21. www.museoscienza.org

© FEDERICO JARACH

T

he museum is one of the city’s most vibrant cultural places, a dynamic workshop of ideas and creativity. It’s the largest in Italy and one of the most important science museums in the world. Its collections – from the working of metals to electronics, from communications to plastic, from nutrition to space exploration – focus on the relationship between men and machines, starting with studies conducted by Leonardo da Vinci. Although it’s a relatively recent institution – it was founded in 1953 – it’s located in a building of extraordinary beauty, a former 14th century monastery. It has a Railway Pavilion featuring tracks, trains, trams and engines (see photo). It houses a priceless fragment of a moon rock, collected by Eugene Cernan, the commander of Apollo 17 in December 1972.

Fiorenzo Galli inside the Enrico Toti submarine

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/MILAN

FREE WITH Enjoy Milan with the "all inclusive" city pass. www.themilanpass.com - infoline: +39 02 867131

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Ambrosiana, Picture Gallery and Library The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. The Ambrosiana library contains one million books including manuscripts and prints. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Castello Sforzesco The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it houses a number of interesting museums and libraries.

Its park is a favourite with old and young alike.

Open daily 7am-6pm (winter time); 7am-7.30pm (summer time); Thurs 7am-10.30pm. Free admission. www.milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello.

M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map E4

Duomo Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed on and off over a period of 450 years (begun 1386) is the symbol of Milan. The cathedral is open daily 8am-7pm. The recently renovated Museo del Duomo (10am-6pm) houses hundreds of works of art dating from the 15th century to the present day. MAJESTIC TERRACES To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles and the famed golden “Madonnina”. www.duomomilano.it. Piazza Duomo.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 FREE WITH

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II The Galleria with its elegant, four-storey arcade, housing over 55 luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola and measures 196 metres in length. Tradition has it that placing your right

heel on the bull, depicted in the mosaic on the floor, and then spinning around inside it, will bring good luck. Don’t miss the Leonardo3-The World of Leonardo da Vinci exhibition with new discoveries: codices, machines, paintings and drawings (from Piazza della Scala at the entrance of the Galleria. Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. Open daily 9.30am-10.30pm.

T: 02 49519981. www.leonardo3.net). Map F4

Last Supper (The) One of the most famous attractions in the world, the “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large 15th century mural paintig representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. It can be found in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Reservation required. www. cenacolovinciano.net. Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2. T: 02 92800360. M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Conciliazione. Map D4 FREE WITH

HOP ON HOP OFF TOUR on panoramic open-topped red double decker buses, 3 lines with 40 stops and multi-lingual commentary www.milano.city-sightseeing.it

Navigli District The Navigli are a widespread network of canals whose history is linked to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One of the most vibrant districts in the city, it boasts small artisan workshops and painter’s studios reminiscent of those found on the left bank in Paris. Don't miss a visit to the new Darsena, recently renewed. Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 4. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E6

St. Ambrose Basilica One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built by St Ambrose (patron of the city) in 379-386 A.D., in an area where numerous martyrs had been buried. The church is a wonderful example of Romanesque style. Free admission. www. basilicasantambrogio.it. Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15.

T: 02 86450895. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map E5

Teatro alla Scala A few steps from the Duomo, the Teatro alla Scala - designed by Piermarini - was inaugurated in 1778 with an opera by Antonio Salieri. Most of Italy’s greatest operatic artists and many of the finest singers from around the world have appeared at La Scala during the past 200 years. Lying adjacent to the theatre, the Museo Teatrale ( FREE WITH ) and the Scala Shop (T: 02 45483257) are not to be missed destinations for ballet and opera lovers. www.teatroallascala.org. Piazza della Scala. T: 02 72003744. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ambrosiana Picture Gallery The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”.

Don't miss the "Leonardo da Vinci tour" organized

by Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala MUST-SEE The Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are housed in three historic buildings overlooking Milan’s elegant via Manzoni, piazza della

The Milan Pass (69€) includes:

ENJOY MILAN WITH THE “ALL INCLUSIVE” CITY PASS The exclusive card that offers the best of museums, attractions, city sightseeing, transportation and restaurants in Milan. www.themilanpass.com - Infoline: +39 02 867131

• a nominative pass • a book of vouchers for admission and discounts for a total value of over 400€ • a map of the city Where to purchase The Milan Pass: • on the www.themilanpass.com website • at the Milan Visitor Center • from leading international tour operators • at hotels and participating facilities • on board CitySightseeing buses

ours

48h

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Scala and via Morone. Two buildings host masterpieces of 19th century Italian art from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the opulent Neo-classical rooms of Palazzo Anguissola and the 19th century Palazzo Brentani. A new section features 20th century masterpieces from the Intesa Sanpaolo collections. Open: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm.

Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm. Closed on Monday.

Full price ticket €10. www.gallerieditalia.com.

Piazza della Scala, 6. T: 800.167619.

M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Leonardo3 – The World of Leonardo The exhibit allows visitors to appreciate the many sides of Leonardo da Vinci’s technical and artistic production with interactive stations, fully functioning maschines made from studying Leonardo’s manuscripts, unprecedented physical reconstructions, digital restorations and threedimensional reconstructions of his creations.

This is the only place in the world where visitors can see a reconstruction of “The Last Supper” as it was 500 year ago, when Leonardo painted it. The exhibit is produced bt the Leonardo3 (L3) Research Center. All interactive experiences are both in English and Italian and the audio guides are available in Italian, English, Russian, German, French, Spanish, Portuguese and Chinese.

Open daily 9.30am-10.30, including holidays. www.leonardo3.net. Piazza della Scala (entrance from inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele I).

Map F4

MUDEC – Museum of Cultures Located inside an old industrial building that was formerly part of the Ansaldo complex, MUDEC is a multi-disciplinary hub dedicated to cultures of the world, featuring different spaces that offer visitors a multiplicity of cultural proposals and services, spread out over 17,000 sq.m.: rooms hosting the museum’s collection and temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bistrot, a design store, a cafeteria, a restaurant, a library, workshops and a junior space. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues, Wed, Fri, Sun 9.30am-7.30pm; Thurs, Sat 9.30am10.30pm. www.mudec.it.T: 02 54917. Via Tortona, 56. M2 Porta Genova. Map C6

Musei del Castello Sforzesco

areas, the museum hosts more than two hundred sculptures and over seven hundred gypsum models and then again paintings, stained glass windows, tapestries and architectural models ranging from the 15th century to the present day. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Wednesday and 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full price ticket €6. Cumulative ticket 15€ (Terraces of the Duomo by lift, Museum and Tesoro and the Baptistery of San Giovanni alle Fonti). http://museo.duomomilano.it. Palazzo Reale, piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 72022656. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map F5 FREE WITH

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci

Map D3

Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Its collections explore the relationship between men and machines starting from the ingenious inventions of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci. Open Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.00pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays 9.30am6.30pm. Full ticket €10 ( FREE WITH )+ Guided tour inside the Enrico Toti submarine €8. www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21.

T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Museo del Duomo

Museo Teatrale alla Scala

Totally refurbished in 2013, the museum houses and highlights all the material not presently in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and construction. Comprising 2,000 square metres of space, twenty seven rooms and thirteen thematic

Founded in 1913, it recently underwent an important makeover and is dedicated to the history of the famous Milan Opera House with a vast collection of musical instruments and documents dedicated to famous musicians, including Verdi and Toscanini. Visitors can look into the theatre, provided there are no rehearsals, or admire the “machine” that gives stage directions. Open Mon-Sun (except holidays) 9am-12.30am/1.30pm5.30pm. Full ticket €6. Museo Teatrale alla Scala + Museo Poldi Pezzoli €9 (Monday only). www. teatroallascala.org. Largo A. Ghiringhelli, 1 corner of Piazza della Scala. T: 02 88792473. T: 02 7423.

M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Antique art, paintings, period furniture, sculptures and musical instruments are housed in Castello Sforzesco’s precious treasure trove. The building alone is well worth a visit. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm, closed on Mondays. Full price ticket €5. Free admittance: after 4.30pm every day except Fri; always free for children under 18. www. milanocastello.it. Piazza Castello. T: 02 88463703.

M1-M2 Cadorna FN, M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza.

Pinacoteca di Brera Opened to the public in 1809, the Pinacoteca di Brera is located in the Neo-classical building of the same name which also houses other cultural institutions including the Braidense Library, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts.

The Pinacoteca hosts one of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy. The new layouts of its rooms is scheduled for completion by 2018. Open Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.15pm (Thurs 8.30am-10.15pm, the entrance price is 2 euro starting from 6pm until 10.15pm - ticket office closure at 9.40pm).

Full ticket price €10. pinacotecabrera.org. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F3 FREE WITH

Triennale di Milano The Triennale di Milano is one of the most vibrant, popular and important exhibition centres in the city. Featuring annually changing exhibitions of note, it also owns the most important permanent collection of design works. This fantastic museum is brimming with endless installations originating from brilliant minds all over the world.

It has a superb media library on design, art and architecture. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm (last admission 1 hour before closing time). Closed on Monday. Full ticket €10. www.triennale.org.

Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Map D3 FREE WITH 56 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

ESSENTIALS

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it.

T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm).

Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30.

T: 02 88453900.

Ordinary ticket (1.50€) Valid for 90 minutes.

Can be used on buses, trams or the metro (one trip only).

Day ticket (4.50€) Valid 24h. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Two-day ticket (8.25€) Valid 48h.

Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro.

Check rates for the extra-urban subway.

Tickets to Rho Fieramilano: 2.50€ (return ticket 5€)

Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors. NEW A further step in the digital transformation of Milan’s public transport: today you can travel on the metro by paying fast and safe at the ticket gate with Mastercard, Visa, Maestro and VPay contactless cards.

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M I L A N TOURS A N D S I G H T S E E I N G

MILAN CITY TOUR LEONARDO

ESSENTIALS Emergency • EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police.

• OPEN PHARMACIES T: 800 801185 • PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

Taxi

MILAN CANAL CRUISES

SINGLE BOOKING NUMBER T: 02 7777 (connecting the Taxi parking areas) AUTORADIOTAXI T: 02 8585 - www.028585.it RADIO TAXI T: 02 6969 - www.yellowtaxi.it ETAXY T: 02 5353 - www.etaxi.it TAXI BLU T: 02 4040 - taxiblu.it Taxi fixed fares:

Malpensa Airport – Milan (any location): € 95 Malpensa Airport – Fiera Milano (Rho): € 65 Malpensa Airport – Linate Airport: € 105 Linate Airport – Fiera Milano (Rho): € 55

Trains b y A u t os t rada leVia ggi

TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains.

• Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min LAkE COMO AND BELLAgIO

ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance

T: 892020. www.italotreno.it TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban

LAkE gARDA AND SIRMIONE

Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www. malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Airports CINqUE TERRE

BERNINA ExpRESS TRAIN

VENICE

milAN oFFicEs – open daily Piazza castello 1 and Passaggio Duomo 2 malpensa, linate and Bergamo Airports

+39.02.30089900 info@lookm i-tours.c om www.lookmi-tours.com 60 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) - (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.sea-aeroportimilano.it • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’.

Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8.

T: 02 72001304.

Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale).

Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station. Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station (Stazione Cadorna). Travel time 40' ca.

Trenord (www.malpensaexpress).it.

Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949.

MILANO LINATE (LIN) - (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.sea-aeroportimilano.it • Connection to Milano Linate ATM 73 > Bus from Via Gonzaga (M1-M3 Duomo).

Travel time: 30’-40'. Ticket € 1.50. www.atm.it.

T: 02 48607607.

Autostradale > Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner piazza Luigi di Savoia).

Travel time: 30’. Ticket € 5. www.autostradale.it.

T: 02 72001304.

ORIO AL SERIO (BGY) - (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it.

• Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’.

Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com). T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it). T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5.

Tourist Information INFOMILANO - Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II corner of piazza della Scala. T: 02 88455555. Mon-Fri 9am7pm / Sat 9am-6pm; Sun and holidays 10am-6pm.

Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ON-HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 3 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (48 hours) € 25 - Adults (1 day) € 22 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131.

You can join the tour from any stop.

Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. A Line: Castello, Cenacolo, Sant'Ambrogio, Navigli, Università Statale, Duomo, La Scala, Arena. B Line: Castello, Triennale, Corso Como, Stazione Centrale, Buenos Aires, San Babila, Brera. C Line: Castello, Garibaldi, Monumentale, Fieramilanocity, Stadio San Siro, Parco Sempione.

Combo tickets for top Milan attractions can be purchased on board at special prices. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it Map E4 MILANO WOW - ITALIAN TOURS A new platform

offering travelers a choice of the best selection of tours and activities in Italy. The only day-trip experience for small groups available in Milan (up to maximum 8 participants). Available in Italian and English (for other languages please make your enquiry). For info and booking: 391 7319598 – booking@milanowow.com. www.milanowow.com.

OPEN TOUR MILAN - Two tours and more than 37

stops to discover Milan on board modern doubledecker buses. A Hop On Hop Off tourist service (the main departure point is Piazza Castello 26).

Line 1 "City Center": Castello, Cenacolo, Museo Scienza e Tecnologia, Navigli, Duomo, La Scala, Stazione Centrale, Gae Aulenti. Line 2 "Sporting": Triennale, Fiera Milano City, Casa Milan, Ippodromo, Stadio San Siro. Prices: Adults 22€ (2 consecutive days 25€); Child (5 -15 years), 9.50€; 0-4 years free; Family: from 60€. On board: audioguide service (10 languages), commentary for kids in 3 languages, free Wi Fi, USB charger, disabled access, GPS locator - realtime map to find bus position online. Tickets onboard, online at www.milanopentour.com, at Open Tour Milan Office by Frigerio Viaggi (via De Amicis, 57 - M2 S. Ambrogio. T: +39 02 83123903), and through over 800 official resellers in Italy. www. milanopentour.com. Map E3 SEGWAY - The trendiest, most environmentally-

friendly ways to visit the city. It offers a wide range of services including: walking and bike tours (Group and Private), Segway tours and a bike and Segway rental service. English and French languages or audio-guide included.

Reservations recommended T: +39 340 1220904 and T: +39 339 1228195 (7 days a week) – info@segwaytourmilan.com. Via Rovello 1/N02

ESSENTIALS corner of via San Tomaso (side of via Dante).

M1 Cairoli. www.segwaytourmilan.com www.milancitytour.it. Map E4

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

Street markets (see map pages 62-63) 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters. Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli to via Bersanti) 2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the world over. Last Sunday of every month.

Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO (STAMPS AND COINS) – A historic market and the third largest in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays.

Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo.

4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street market, renowned for its high-end fashion pickings. Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino.

5. ANTIQUE AND SECOND-HAND BOOK MARKET – A monthly appointment which sees the participation of booksellers from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the month (excluding the months of July and August).

Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo.

6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market. Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm. www.cuccagna.org.

Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori.

7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired market boasting vintage or second-hand clothes and accessories, old vinyls, antiques, bike, toys, oddities, books, furniture, videogame and jewellery, as well as street food.

Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI BRERA Every third Sunday of the month

in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm.

Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – via Formentini. M2 Lanza.

9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated

by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists. Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am1pm) and Saturday (7.30am-5pm).

10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market

in corso XXII Marzo, offering high quality food.

From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm).

Interpreters STUDIO BERNITZ - carey.bernitz@gmail.com

T: 02 26410024/335 6348682.

LANGUAGE CONSULTING - www.lcc.it

Via Lanzone, 6. T: 02 8057846/864156. Деловые переводы, экскурсии, шоп-туры.

www.vivatmilan.com - vivatmilan@mail.ru T: 338 6751422

Bike Sharing BIKEMI – A public bicycle transport system.

The service runs 365 days a year, from 7 am to 1 am, with traditional and electric bicycles.

Maximum consecutive use is 2 hours. Temporary subscriptions > daily: 4,50 euros; weekly: 9 euros; annual: 36 euros. Credit cards only. Price: first 30 min. free of charge, then 0.50 euros every 30 min.

Infoline ATM T: 02 48607607. www.bikemi.com MOBIKE – This ‘free floating’ system allows you to book a bike via a smartphone App, identify the position of the bike nearest to you and then leave it in any authorized parking area in the city. Cost: 1 euro deposit, and 0.30 euros every 30 minutes. For more information visit www.mobike.com Mobike

OFO – Ofo, the world’s largest station-free bike sharing company, has launched in Milan.

Operating across 180 cities worldwide, Ofo’s mission is to provide a convenient, affordable and low carbon method of travel. Users can download an App on their smartphone to find nearby bikes and scan the QR code located on either the frame or smart lock to unlock them. The company’s distinctive yellow bikes have airless tyres (to prevent punctures) and a 3-speed gear shift. The company plans on expanding its offer to cover the entire metropolitan area over the coming months.

Costs: 0.20 euros for the first half hour; 0.30 euros for the second half hour; 0.50 euros for every 30 minutes thereafter and 5 euros per day.

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SHOPPING AREAS

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62 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2018

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Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi and Corso Como (H3) Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3)

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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Milan Magazine 5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Matteotti – Corso G. Matteotti, 4/6 • G4 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 TownHouse Galleria (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES AC – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP ADI Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 ADI Hotel Poliziano Fiera – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 ATAHOTEL Contessa Jolanda Residence – Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAP ATAHOTEL Expo Fiera – Via G. Keplero, 12 – Pero (MI) • OFF MAP ATAHOTEL Linea Uno Residence – Viale Monza, 139 • OFF MAP ATAHOTEL Quark Due – Via Lampedusa, 11/3 • OFF MAP Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio – Via Lodovico

il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6 Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1 Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP HL Hotel Milan Fiera – Via Falzarego, 1 (Baranzate) • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP LaGare Hotel Milano – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3 NH Milano Congress Centre – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Palazzo Moscova – Via Monte Grappa, 12b • MAP F2 NH Milano Touring – Via U. Tarchetti, 2 • G3 NH Milano 2 – Via F.lli Cervi - Segrate (Milano 2) • OFF MAP NHOW Milano – Via Tortona, 35 • C6 Novotel Milano Malpensa Aeroporto – Via al Campo, 99 Cardano al Campo (VA) • Off Map NYX Milan – Piazza IV Novembre, 3 . G1 Osteria della Pista – Via Verbano, 1 (Casorate Sempione, VA) • OFF MAP Palazzo delle Stelline – Corso Magenta, 61 • E4 Palazzo Segreti – Via San Tomaso, 8 • E4 Pioppeto – Via Strà Madonna, 15 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Qualys Hotel Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • C1 Radisson Blu – Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAP Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAP Ramada Plaza– Via d’Ancona, 27 • OFF MAP Regina – Via C. Correnti, 13 • E5 Residence Desenzano Milano – Via Desenzano, 12 • A5 Residence Romana – Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6 Royal Garden – Via G. Di Vittorio, Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Santa Marta Suites – Via Santa Marta, 4 • E5 Sanpi – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • G3 Savona 18 Suites – Via Savona, 18 • Map D6 Senato Hotel Milano – Via Senato, 22 • E5 Sheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3 Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport – Ferno (VA) Aeroporto Malpensa 2000, Terminal 1 • OFF MAP Silver – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAP SINA De la Ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5 Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5 Star – Via dei Bossi, 5 • Map F4 Starhotels Anderson – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1 Starhotels Business Palace – Via Privata Pietro Gaggia, 3 • OFF MAP Starhotels Echo – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1 Starhotels Grand Milan – Via Varese, 23 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • H3 Starhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • F5 Straf – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F4 Sunflower – Piazzale Lugano, 10 • OFF MAP Terminal – Via Ponte Seveso, 38 • Map G1 The Hub – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAP The Square Milano Duomo – Via Albricci, 2-4 • F5 The Yard Milano – Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 • E6 Tocq Hotel – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F2 TownHouse 33 – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • H4 Trova il Tempo – Via Novara, 216 • OFF MAP UNA Hotel Century – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G2 UNA Hotel Cusani – Via Cusani, 13 • E4 UNA Maison Milano– Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 UNA Hotel Malpensa – Via F. Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAP UNA Hotel Mediterraneo – Via L. Muratori 14 • H6 UNA Hotel Scandinavia – Via G.B. Fauché, 15 • C1 Uptown Palace – Via Santa Sofia, 10 • F6 Vittoria – Via P. Calvi, 32 • H5 Windsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2 Worldhotel Cristoforo Colombo – Corso Buenos Aires, 3 • H3 Warm Zara Milano – Viale Zara, 28 • OFF MAP win up WHERE MILAN IS ENDORS PROJECT ED BY

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