What's On Connemara visitors guide, August 2022

ISSUE 4, VOL 17 October 2021 FREE ®

What's On CONNEMARA

Free

ISSUE 5, VOLUME 18, AUGUST 2022

WHAT TO SEE AND DO Activities & Attractions Places To Visit Driving Routes

ENTERTAINMENT Events & Festivals Live Music Schedule Family Activities

EXPERT LOCAL ADVICE ON Shopping & Stores Dining Out & Bars Great Walks To Explore

MARCONI R E S TA U R A N T

L O C A L LY S O U R C E D D I S H E S - B O O K I N G A D V I S A B L E MAIN STREET CLIFDEN 095 21801

day Home Place your Holi in our hands

FINE WINES

EST

FOYLES

1835

G E N E R AT I O N S O F H O S P I TA L I T Y

GO CALL YVONNE 095 22669 VISIT connemaralettings.ie

MULLARKEY’S BAR

OD SPIRITS

BAR · VENUE · CRAIC · MUSIC

Contents Live Music

3

Events & Festivals

4

Walk of the Month

5

Activities & Attractions Places to Visit

6-9 10-11

Clifden Map

12

Connemara Map

13

Cycle Routes & Beaches

13

Drives & Day Tours

14-15

What’s On the Menu?

16-19

What's in Store?

Let's go together You’ve made it this far – now, let What’s On take you even further into the heart of Connemara.

20-23

Useful Information

24

Editors Jonathan Powell and Amanda Burke Designer Lucy Jackson lucyjacksondesign.com Additional Copywriting Hilary White @HAWhiteK Contact Us jonathan@whatson.ie Front Cover Derrygimlagh Marconi Landscape Disclaimer: Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the contents presented in this guide, neither What's On® nor its publishers can be held liable for any loss, damage or injury arising f rom the reliance upon the contents of this guide.

Page 2. Welcome to Connemara. 'Wherever you go, go with all your heart'. Confucius

Since 2005, it’s been our privilege to help visitors plot a course through the colours, textures, and flavours of our wild and beautiful home. Whether you’re a f irst-timer or a seasoned visitor, we hope these pages can do the same for you.

Connemara National aP rk

Restaurant Upstairs Serving A la Carte from 6pm til late

Events in the Park

Bar food

served all day

Evening Lecture Series

Live Music Nightly

In the AV theatre Wednesdays at 8pm No booking required

Connemara Pony Information Sessions

E.J. Kings

At the Pony Stables 10am -12pm Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday in August

3 Floors of Dining & The Terrace Park Centre: +353 (0)95 41054 Office: +353 (0)1 539 3157 Email: cnp@housing.gov.ie www.connemaranationalpark.ie

What's On

Venue

Monday

9.30-11.30pm An entertaining mix of traditional and country music

E.J. King's

advert above

Market Square, Clifden, Co. Galway T:095 21330 W:ejkings.com

®

Live music schedule

Tuesday

Wednesday

9.30-11.30pm An entertaining mix of traditional and country music

Thursday

9.30-11.30pm An entertaining mix of traditional and country music

Friday

9.30-11.30pm An entertaining mix of traditional and country music

Saturday

10-12pm An entertaining mix of traditional and country music

Kylemore Abbey advert opposite

10pm Amazing Mix of upbeat Irish & Contemporary Music

Lowry's

advert page 13

10pm Energetic Irish Folk Music & Tunes

Mullarkey's

advert opposite

10-12pm An entertaining mix of traditional and country music

9-11pm An entertaining mix of traditional and country music

2pm Irish songs from local musician in the Neo-Gothic Church

2pm Traditional Irish harpist in the stunning Neo-Gothic Church

10pm Legendary Mix of Irish Ballads & Contemporary Music

10pm Irish and Contemporary Music with a Celtic Twist!

10pm Legendary Mix of Irish Folk Ballads & Contemporary

10pm Amazing Mix of upbeat Irish & Contemporary Music

9.30pm Live music session Trad folk country bluegrass rhythm & blues

9.30pm Open session Singers players poets dancers jokers & chancers, all welcome

9.30pm Live music session Tradfolk country bluegrass rythm & blues

9.30pm Trad Session 11pm Live jazz funk soul & motown

9pm From Mendelson to Mercury on the Foyer Piano

9pm Relax in the Foyer to the sound of the Piano

9pm From Mendelson to Mercury on the Foyer Piano

7-9pm Lively Classic Irish & Folk Music 9.30-12pm Legendary Irish and Contemporary Music 9.30pm Live traditional & country music ballads & foot tappers

9pm Traditional music and ballad's session, musician's welcome

Oliver's Bar advert page 24

Station House Hotel advert page 12

Sunday

9pm Relax in the Foyer to the sound of the Piano

9pm From Mendelson to Mercury on the Foyer Piano

9pm Relax in the Foyer to the sound of the Piano

Woodfield Hotel

10pm Lively Country Music

advert page 18

Experts say it's now possible to carry a tune and 2 pints of stout at the same time. Page 3

SOU PS - SALADS - SAN DW I C HES

PIZZAS - SEAFO O D

LUNCH @

Connemara Sands Hotel

Connemara Sands BEACH

HOTEL

SPA

Seaweed Baths & Spa RESTORE YOUR MIND & BODY WITH OUR VOYA ORGANIC SEAWEED TREATMENTS

Enjoy access to the wonderful Mannin Bay Beach BALLYCONNEELY CALL 095-23030 Visit connemarasands-hotel.com

Connemara, a place to dream and quiet the soul

events & festivals Connemara's cultural highlights this month Seisiún at Teach Ceoil An amazing presentation of traditional Irish music, song and dance, the audience will be taken for a musical journey through this rich and varied world in all it's forms.

When Tuesdays 9pm till 23rd August Where Teach Ceoil, Tully, Renvyle

Connemara Pony Show

More Facebook teachceoilrenvyle

The 97th annual Show, with four packed days of events where the very best of the breed will be on display, ponies compete in many classes, including the famed puissance, and there's a dog show, a domestic Arts show, and some Irish dancing too.

When Tuesday 9th - Friday 12th August

Where Clifden Showgrounds

Oughterard Agricultural Show The 57th show is highlighted by the final all Ireland ridden performance championship and numerous classes for horses, ponies, cattle, sheep, poultry and dogs, and the domestic arts section. Family fun day out.

More cpbs.ie

Lughnasa Forest Bathing Walk This ancient practice, based on Japanese "Shinrin Yoku" is an opportunity to slow down and connect with nature as Lughnasa begins a time for celebration, ripening and sharing the bountiful gifts of the harvest.

When Sunday 28th August Wher Corribdale Park & the Community Centre, Oughterard More oughterardshow.ie

When Sunday 14th August at 8pm Where Brigit's Garden, Pollagh, Rosscahill More brigitsgarden.ie

Cashel Pony Show The success of the Cashel pony show has ensured its position as one of the attractions for Connemara Ponies, the breeders, and spectators, providing hours of enjoyment for visitors to see the Connemara Pony in its majestic natural environment.

When Sunday 7th August Where Cashel

Festival of the Sea Run by the Community council, an all round schedule of events and activities, from island walks to seafood buffets, a craft fair to a pub quiz, there's something for all the family When July 30th - Sunday 7th August

More Facebook cashelponyshow

Where Cleggan & Claddaghduff

More Facebook. festivalofthesea

Page 4. Connemara is always a good idea.

BIKE HIRE - REGULAR & ELECTRIC

SALES & SERVICING Book at www.clifdenbikeshop.ie Market Street, Clifden, Connemara, Co. Galway H71 DW67 Call: +353 (0)95 22630

Hire | Discover | Service | Accessories 4

T H E

095-21699

C A R R I A G E

R E S T A U R A N T

Dinner is Served Each Evening From 6:00pm. Booking is Essential.

Clifden Station House Hotel, Galway Road, Clifden, Co. Galway,H71 AK52

Inis Bó Finne - Cluanach Mhór Inishbofin - Cloonamore and the north-east

walk of the month Start/Finish Terrain Distance Grade

Cleggan Pier - see ferry times on page 24 Road, track, cross country 8.5km approx. 3 hours Easy to moderate

Photo - ©Inishbofin Community Services Programme

From the pier, gain the vantage point of the High Road via Pound Road behind the small shop. As we track east, to our right we see the safe anchorage of the inner pond at the head of the harbour. The ruin on the small island opposite the old pier is what remains of a fish-curing station dating from the turn of the century. Our route passes along the spine of large glacial deposits that underlie the island’s meadows and pastureland.

Turn sharp-left where the road begins to descend towards East End Bay. On the right, we overlook the fertile slopes of Cloonamore – Cluain Mór, “the big meadow” – and the white crescent beach at this eastern shore. Away in the distance, the peaks of Mayo and Connemara provide a backdrop to this sublime seascape. To the north, meanwhile, the cone of Croagh Patrick can be seen rising beyond the Mayo mountains.

The track now winds its way out onto the commonage, a terrain of rough grazing and rocky outcrops. Our route soon requires us to pick a way across land to the eastern track, which is quite visible. Those that have time may wish to explore the cliffs

around Dún na hIníne and the rocky coves where choughs, wheatears and seabirds can be spotted.

The track brings us onto the East End beach. At its far end, we take a right turn onto the Low Road back towards the harbour.

Less than a mile on, a ruined 13th-century church stands in the grounds of the original 7th-century monastery founded by St Colman. Ancient graves lie alongside modern in this, the island’s cemetery. The adjacent Church Lough supports reed beds and other vegetation in this fertile valley, which in turn provide cover, food, and nest sites for a wide variety of birds. Field boundaries and sod walls grow rich with wildflowers here. During summer months, listen out for the rasping call of the Corncrake near nettle beds.

A detour left, down the short steep hill, puts you on course for a bowl of chowder and a pint in one of the island’s pubs. If you have a ferry to catch, however, the new pier from where we set off is straight ahead past the post office.

We're sorry you forgot your phone charger, you could instead try staring intermittently at your shoes for the rest of the evening. Page 5

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Main Street, Clifden

095-21038

millarsconnemara@gmail.com

millarsconemara.ie

Open 7 Days a Week

Journey outside and discover Connemara’s hidden gems

activities & attractions Get inspired and find your Connemara

Beaches

Walking

Some of Europe’s most exquisite beaches are found on the coastline of Connemara. Each has its own character and layout, meaning endless options for exploring, beachcombing, swimming, rockpooling, or walking. What all have in common – from the expansive freedom of Omey Strand to Glassilaun’s pristine cove or Mannin Bay’s crystal blue waters – is an unbeatable tonic for body and mind.

Endless coastline, lake-filled hinterlands, and jutting mountains – Connemara is paradise for walkers of all levels. Connemara National Park’s Diamond Hill loop is a must, as is otherworldly Inishbofin.

Clifden’s tranquil Beach Road takes you from town centre to ocean’s edge, while Ballynahinch’s network of wooded, waterside paths boasts 6km of Connemara Greenway.

Locate: See beach umbrella symbols on map page 13.

More information: See www.connemara.net.

The Derrigimlagh Looped Walk

Cycling & Bike Hire

Less than 5km south from Clifden, history and nature combine in remarkable fashion. This protected biodiversity area with lake-studded blanket bogs were both the jumping off point for the first transatlantic radio signal in 1907, as well as the landing site for the first non-stop transatlantic flight in 1919. A looped boardwalk with interactive information takes you through these world-changing events.

Cycling is one of the best ways to drink in the peacefulness and sheer breadth of the Connemara landscape. Clifden Bike Shop have bikes for all inclinations, from electric and hybrid to children’s bikes, buggies, and tandems. Hire includes helmet, Hi-Viz, lock, route maps, and roadside assistance.

Mention 'What’s On' and you might even get a complimentary bottle of water.

Locate: Connemara map plane symbol.

Locate: Clifden map #22, advert page 4 & 13.

Kylemore Abbey & Gardens

The Ballynahinch Estate

As romantic gifts go, Kylemore Abbey is hard to top.

Built in 1868 by a wealthy industrialist as a home for his wife, the 1,000-hectare estate is today one of the most instantly recognisable beauty spots in Europe. A contained Connemara wonderland that boasts lakeside and woodland walks, mountain skylines, not to mention the Abbey, Victorian walled garden and tearooms.

You mightn’t be booked in to stay at the Castle Hotel but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the pristine miniature kingdom that is the Ballynahinch Estate.

A 16km network of pathways weaves through this truly remarkable Connemara wonderland of waters, woods and mountains. Afterwards, refreshment and log fires await at the hotel’s classy Fisherman’s Pub. An illustrated route map is available to download.

Locate: Clifden map #49, advert page 2.

Locate: Connemara map #23, advert page 6.

Page 6. If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to TikTok it, does it make a sound?

Indulge in one of life’s great treats & enjoy one of our picnics in the great outdoors To order your picnic call 095 31006 or email info@ballynahinch-castle.com

O'Dalaigh Jewellers STUNNING WEDDING & ENGAGEMENT RINGS

UNIQUE IN IRELAND Handmade In-Store Since 1973

www.guysbarclifden.com

TA K E AWAY M E N U AVA I L A B L E

SILVER & GOLD CELTIC CONTEMPOR ARY, VINTAGE SEA LIFE COLLECTIONS & MORE

OGHA M BAR COLLECTION

NAMES OR WORDS HANDCARVED IN THE OLDEST FORM OF IRISH WRITING

Gifts they will never forget

095-21130 M ain Str eet, Clifden T: 095 22119 celticimpr essions.com

GUYS BAR CLIFDEN Main Street, Clifden email info@guysbarclifden.com

Ben Lettery Hostel

Clifden Station House Leisure Centre

Be helpful, be nice – if only we all adhered to the Ben Lettery philosophy. This renowned hostel snuggled between the feet of the Twelve Bens and the Ballynahinch Lake has long been the starting point for hill walkers looking to access the mountain range. Maps, WiFi, breakfast, tea and coffee, and luggage storage are among its many creature comforts.

From fitness buffs to those who prefer their swimming in a heated pool rather than a windswept beach, this tip-top leisure centre is worth taking note of. There is ample scope for some serious unwinding here too, courtesy of its sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and Renew Beauty and Spa which offers a range of treatments. Three and seven-day passes are available. To book, call 095-30433.

Locate: Connemara map #90, advert page 22.

Locate: Clifden map #34.

Blue Water Fishing

Clifden Station House Museum

When it comes to deep-sea angling, skipper John Brittain has a lifetime of experience. Who better, then, to bring you and your team for a day of Atlantic horizons and some of the best open-water fishing in Europe? Tackle, know-how, and safety equipment are provided aboard John’s fully licensed boat, the Blue Water. Shorter trips for younger seadogs are also available.

Located on the site of Clifden’s old railway station, this lovingly restored original engine house serves as the town’s museum. Here, families can enjoy learning about the history of Clifden, the Galway-to-Clifden railway line, the native Connemara Pony breed, Millar’s Mill, and the first transatlantic flight by legendary aviators Alcock and Brown. There’s also a photographic exhibition on the Marconi wireless station.

Locate: Connemara map #80, advert page 24.

Locate: Clifden map #32.

Brigit's Garden

Connemara Golf Links

This Celtic wonderland between Galway and Connemara is an ideal stop-off for families. Four ornate and meditative gardens take visitors through the seasonal festivals of Samhain, Imbolc, Bealtaine and Lughnasa, before leading you through woodlands and meadows. All the while, Celtic mythologies gently impart their wisdom and inspiration along the way. Its café comes highly rated too.

Designed by Eddie Hackett, this is one of the most scenic, natural links courses in the world. Its fairways and greens are interwoven through the rocky and rugged slopes, creating a uniquely remote and true championship links. Tom Watson, regarded as one of the greatest links players of all time, described the course as “spectacular”. Golf carts, rental clubs, practice facilities and expert tuition are available.

Locate: Connemara map #26, advert page 9.

Locate: Connemara map #37, advert page 13.

Hills, mountains, hillocks, horns, pinnacles, summits—we've got ‘em all, go climb one, and take in a view or two. Page 7

The Point Pony Trekking and Horse Riding Centre

Beginners and advanced riders welcome We speak English, French and Dutch A.I.R.E. approved

Closed on Sundays

Discover Connemara's most stunning

beaches and coastline on horseback Ballyconneely, Co. Galway (beside beaches & Connemara Golf Links) T: 095 23685 / 087 246 8294 thepointponytrekkingcentre.com

Connemara National Park Letterfrack, C o. G a l w a y

Woodland Trails Diamond Hill Walks

Outdoor Picnic Areas • Café • Playground Free Exhibition and AV Film

Free Admission Open Daily – Year Round

Park Centre: +353 (0)95 41054 Office: +353 (0)1 539 3157 Email: cnp@housing.gov.ie www.connemaranationalpark.ie

Hop aboard the Island Adventure, our new 240 passenger boat to Inishbofin from Cleggan

INISHBOFIN FERRY Booking Advisable See timetable page 24 T: 095 45819 / 086 1718829 inishbofinislanddiscovery.com

Celebrate Food Celebrate Wine Celebrate Life

GE

ESC

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AP

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WIND � R EC H

N �U

Book your next trip to Connemara?

Learn about the history of sheep farming and wool craft

Retreat to the trees and immerse yourself in nature w w w. f e r n wo o d . e c o

West @ The Twelve Barna Village, Galway

Demonstrations ¦ Gift shop ¦ Cafe www.sheepandwoolcentre.com

www.thetwelvehotel.ie 091 597000

LEENANE, COUNTY GALWAY

TREEHOUSE LODGINGS - LAKESIDE SAUNA WILD LAKESIDE SWIMMING WOODLAND WALKS - ROPE BRID G E ORGANIC FARM - CLIFDEN

Connemara National Park

Fernwood – Luxury Treehouses

Free, accessible and richly rewarding, the National Park in Letterfrack is a gateway to a deeper level of intimacy with this unique landscape. The Diamond Hill loop is a most idyllic hiking trail, traversing biodiverse habitats and rewarding you with jawdropping views across the region. A woodland walk, immersive visitors’ centre, playground, and café are on hand should the weather act up.

The brainchild of the Ashe family, whose vision was to create a design-led couples retreat where sustainability and connectivity with nature were the bedrock. Situated on Salt Lake just 1km from Clifden, its three unique luxury hideaways are complemented by a private lakeside sauna, an organic farm, woodland walks, a treetop rope bridge, and access to the Connemara Greenway.

Locate: Connemara map #40, advert page 7.

Locate: Connemara map #84, advert page 8.

Connemara Seaweed Baths

Jewellery Workshop

Connemara’s only saltwater seaweed baths is on a mission to de-stress and revive. The key is fresh hand-cut seaweed combined with saltwater to release its essential nutrients and minerals. After your pores are done soaking up the goodness, a saltwater plunge pool awaits. A Thermal Suite package is also offered, featuring sauna, steam room, and an outdoor jacuzzi overlooking Clifden harbour.

Wander into O’Dalaigh Jewellers on Clifden’s Main Street and you might find it difficult to leave. This family-run outfit crafts finery inspired by the golden age of Celtic jewellery that embraces modern sensibilities. Drop by their open-plan workshop to see these master exponents in their element. You’ll come away with some secrets of this ancient craft – and perhaps more, besides.

Locate: Connemara map #91, advert page 8.

Locate: Clifden map #61, advert page 7.

Connemara Sheep & Wool Centre

Le Petit Spa @ The Twelve Hotel

Sheep farming is tied up in the identity of Connemara, as any drive through the region will prove. This inviting heritage experience in Leenane aims to celebrate this age-old tradition and reveal some of its mysteries. Highlights include a yarnspinning demonstration and a gift store selling the woollen and knitwear fruits of the industry, while a café awaits at the end of the tour.

Residents and day-visitors in search of much-needed me-time should find themselves suitably melted once Le Petit Spa has had its way with them. Full-body, hot-stone, and Indian head massages are on the menu, as are a range of organic beauty and detox treatments using locally sourced products. Taking pride of place among the latter are its Nourishing Marine Cocoon Wrap and Detox Seaweed Bath. .Locate: Connemara map #73, advert page 8.

Locate: Connemara map #68, advert page 8.

Page 8. The weather is always passing overhead without as much as a wave.

Western Kingfisher

Sea Angling

MARKET STREET, CLIFDEN +3 5 3 (8 5 ) 2 6 3 4 7 8 4

Baths & Thermal Suite www.connemaraseaweedbaths.com

D E PA R T S - C L E G G A N

For a great catch Join Johnny 086 832 8278

F U L L & H A L F D AY B O A T T R I P S

Embrace the power of the sea

Alan Gaillard

“The most romantic place to stay in Ireland”

Ceramics Studio

Cosmpolitan Magazine

COASTEERING - SURF - CLIMB - KAYAK - SUP

4 Star

Guesthouse & Town Rental

Visitors Welcome 12am to 6pm Mon-Sat TELEPHONE 095-22786 WEB alangaillard.com 2km north of Clifden on N59 Westport Rd, See Clifden map.

BOOK ONLINE

realadventures.ie

The Quay House

ON THE DAY

085 146 2526

Tel: 095 21369

www.thequayhouse.com

Real Adventures

The Point Pony Trekking

There are infinite ways that a landscape such as Connemara can be enjoyed. Those wishing to get off the beaten track, however, should touch base here as they specialise in mapping the West as a playground for outdoor pursuits. Coastal kayaking, surfing, coasteering, paddle boarding, rock climbing and hiking, all fully guided and equipped, are available to those looking to get the heartrate up.

The world looks different from horseback, revealing things you might otherwise have missed. With 25 years of experience, this equine company located close to the Connemara Golf Links and the dreamy white sands of Aillebrack beach will show you how.

All treks are accompanied by qualified staff, with safety equipment included free of charge.

Closed on Sunday.

Locate: Connemara map #66, advert page 9.

Locate: Connemara map #71, advert page 7.

Sands Seaweed Baths & Spa

Western Kingfisher Sea Angling

Sumptuous seaweed baths by Voya, the world's first producer of certified organic seaweed-based skincare products, are among the wide range of treatments served up by this soothing coastal spa at the Connemara Sands Hotel. Located by the crystalline waters of Mannin Bay in Ballyconneely, the spa is open 10am-6pm daily, and 10am-8pm on Fridays.

Booking is essential.

All aboard the Western Kingfisher, where skipper Johnny specialises in charting half-days of Atlantic angling in the rich seas between Cleggan and the islands of this rugged coastline. Fast, modern, and fully licensed for more intimate-sized groups, the Western Kingfisher also has tackle and rigs for hire, meaning you don’t need to come equipped to hook your own dinner.

Locate: Connemara map #41, advert page 3.

Locate: Clifden map #92, advert page 8.

Sweathouse - Mobile Outdoor Sauna

Wildlands - family day out!

Newsflash – not only is there such thing as a sauna on wheels, but it’s possible to park them by a crystal Atlantic shoreline or a serene lake.

Sweathouse’s invigorating combo of steam and landscape proves it. Groups, families and couples are invited to book a slot online for this reviving outdoor experience that brings the heat to several locations around Connemara.

Minutes from Galway on the Clifden road, the village of Moycullen has become a hotspot for thrill-seeking thanks to this abundant activity centre. Wildlands welcomes all ages and levels of excitability to its popular Zip ‘n’ Trek course, its new celtic challenge rooms, as well as fun walls, archery, bushcraft, yoga, fairy trails, and tonnes of other indoor and outdoor frolics on its 20-acre site.

Locate: Connemara map #85, advert page 8.

Locate: Connemara map #74, advert page 9.

Connemara has oft been described as rugged, romantic and savage, in other words, like an expensive foreign aftershave—Le Connemara, j’adore! Page 9

Connecting

People & Nature

DISCOVER the Wild!

Celtic-themed Gardens surrounded by wildflower meadows and woodland. Family friendly.

www.brigitsgarden.ie

091 550 905 Rosscahill, Co.Galway

Wildlands, Moycullen, Galway

www.wildlands.ie

An ode to a sense of place, doth help with time and space

great places to visit A multitude of colourful towns and villages are waiting for you

Ballyconneely

Clifden

The winding coast road of Ballyconneely takes you through one of Connemara's popular holiday destinations. Glorious sandy beaches are inescapable, even at the world-renowned Connemara Championship Golf Links. In summertime, the village itself enjoys a vibrant atmosphere, but make sure to explore the many small and quiet byroads by bicycle or car as these will open up the peaceful treasures hidden along this stretch of coast.

The unofficial Capital of Connemara and the axis on which everything in the region turns. Since its founding in 1812, Clifden’s position between the mountains and ocean continues to attract multitudes each year, some of whom never leave.

Annual highlights include the Connemara Pony Show, Clifden Trad Fest, Ireland's longest running community arts festival, Clifden Arts Festival. An eclectic mix of shops, bars, and cafes lies in store.

Carna

Inishbofin

The village of Carna is a gateway to the Irishspeaking Gaeltacht region, famed for its sean-nós (old style) singing, dancing, folklore and storytelling.

The most famous past resident is Joe Heaney, Ireland's greatest storyteller in the native tongue.

The Emigrant’s Commemorative Centre tells Carna’s saga of mass emigration, and was opened in 2014 by Boston mayor Marty Walsh, himself a descendant of the area.

The largest populated island in western Connemara, Inishbofin is a bounteous place to visit, what with its monastic and archaeological history, dramatic cliffs, gorgeous beaches, rich wildlife, and inviting hospitality. A network of walking and cycling routes make all the corners of this habitat-diverse enclave easily charted in a matter of hours. Legendary traditionalmusic sessions in its bars, meanwhile, do their very best to help you miss the ferry back to Cleggan.

Cleggan & Claddaghduff

Killary Fjord & Leenane

The busy harbour of Cleggan is both a departure point for the Inishbofin island ferries as well as a refuelling hub for those in search of seafood and live music. A number of splendid beaches and coves lie just past the village on the Aughrus peninsula, including the tranquil Salerna and the famous Omey Strand and tidal island at Claddaghduff. Popular annual events in this area include the Festival of the Sea, and the Cleggan Fringe Festival.

Right on the county border of Galway and Mayo, the village of Leenane is huddled between the feet of towering mountains and the shores of Ireland’s only fjord, Killary Harbour. Cyclists, kayakers, ramblers, and mountaineers have all felt the pull, with a recently established mountain-walking festival now drawing many enthusiasts annually. Leenane also welcomed Hollywood in 1980 as the backdrop for Jim Sheridan’s The Field.

Page 10. Sometimes it rains here. Time to bedeck yourself and the entire family in brightly coloured wellington boots and raincoats that you’ll only wear once. A happy souvenir to look back on amidst the horror of reading your credit card bill on arrival home.

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The Wall Street Journal

Connemara Coast Road, Spiddal / Main Street, Oughterard T: +353 (0)91 553115 Visit Standún.com Free Shipping Worldwide *on non reduced items

Letterfrack

Rosmuc

Located along the Westport Road the village of Letterfrack is a diverse and spirited hive of activity nestled under Diamond Hill. The jumping off point for Kylemore, the Renvyle Peninsula, and the majestic Connemara National Park, it also has a great sense of local pride thanks to its community radio station, college campus, friendly pubs, independent bookstore, and annual festivals, Bog Week in the early summer, and Sea Week in the autumn.

In the Gaeltacht village of Rosmuc, sean-nós (old style) music and dance are part of the very fabric, as is their Gaelic football team. The former summer home of Irish revolutionary Pàdraig Pearse is now a national heritage site here, and an interactive exhibition showcases the area's landscape and history to great effect. Rossaveal harbour 15-minutes away is an embarkation point for the Aran Islands.

Oughterard

Roundstone

Pretty as a picture on the western shore of Lough Corrib, Oughterard is not only the gateway to Connemara, it is the main angling centre for the largest lake in Ireland. Boat hire, fly-tying and freshwater angling are popular pursuits, but the area also offers scenic and heritage walks. An ever-evolving mixture of shops, small businesses, traditional pubs, and accommodation providers makes this a major Connemara destination.

This harbour village facing on to the Twelve Pins mountain range has been a destination for generations of visitors. A busy summer schedule of events includes pony shows, a dog show, weekly Sunday farmer’s market, and the Roundstone Regatta. The mesmeric Bog Road to its north, Dog’s Bay and Gurteen beaches to its south, and fresh seafood in its centre, Roundstone is an must visit.

Renvyle Peninsula

Spiddal

A left turn at Letterfrack brings you out the rolling Renvyle Peninsula. Surrounded on three sides by Atlantic Ocean and intersected by the Dawros river, the drive takes you through the gorgeous village of Tullycross, which hosted a lively mussel festival each year, and on to the scenic headland. You can also access beaches at Lettergesh, and beyond it, the stunning Glassilaun and Mweelrea mountain.

The village of Spiddal (An Spidéal) on the shores of Galway Bay is one of the largest Irish-speaking areas of the Gaeltacht and has a charming traditional appeal. While English is spoken when needed, all road signs and day-to-day speech are as gaeilge. Crafts and culture can be experienced here, as can some great natural beauty – Trá na mBan, a Blue Flag beach, and Shannagurraun Wood.

Photo © Niall O'Donovan

There’s a lot to see and do in Connemara, but sometimes it’s best to do a lot of very little. Page 11

Under New Mangement | Boutique Hotel | Market Square, Clifden

info@alcockandbrownhotel.com | 095-21880 | www.alcockandbrownhotel.com

S I G N A L &

B A R

R E S T A U R A N T Indoor & utdoor ining Food Served From 12-10pm

095-21699

Clifden

Fuel / Gas Station Clifden Station House Museum

Alan Gaillard Ceramics ......................... 20 Alcock & Brown Hotel............................ 21 All Things Connemara .......................... 22 Bridewell Brewery................................... 25 Carriage Restaurant................................ 30 Clifden Bike Shop.................................... 22 Clifden Bookshop.................................... 28 Clifden Station House Cinema............ 31 Clifden Station House Museum.......... 32 Clifden Station Hse Leisure Centre... 34 Clifden Opticians .................................... 29 Connemara Blue ...................................... 36 Connemara Hamper................................ 38 Connemara Lettings............................... 39 Connemara Seaweed Baths................. 91 EJ King's...................................................... 43 Fernwood Farm ....................................... 84 Foyle's Hotel.............................................. 44 Guy’s Bar.................................................... 46 Hehir's of Clifden..................................... 81

Clifden Medical Practice Tel: 095-21224

Intersport Gannons ................................ 45 Jasmine Garden Restaurant ................ 48 Lamplight Wine Bar................................ 50 Love Vintage ............................................ 51 Lowry’s Bar................................................ 53 Mannion's Bar........................................... 54 Marconi Restaurant................................. 44 Millars Connemara ................................. 55 Mitchell's Restaurant ............................. 56 Moran's Pharmacy .................................. 58 Mullarkey’s Bar......................................... 59 O’Dalaigh Jewellers ................................ 61 Ohh! By Gum ............................................ 62 Provenance Interiors............................... 65 SuperValu................................................... 70 The Quay House Guesthouse ............. 72 The Signal Bar & Restaurant .............. 33 Tom King's Bar.......................................... 43 Woodfield Hotel....................................... 75

Doctor's Practice Tel: 095-21141 Clifden Dental Practice Tel: 095-22731 20 2 km on right

Clifden District Hospital (no ER) Tel: 095-21301

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Bridge Street, Clifden 095 30995 info@clifdenopticians.ie www.clifdenopticians.ie

Riverside

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Page 12. You are right where you’re supposed to be, if not, then see page 13, very lucky for some.

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RENT A BIKE

Market Street, Clifden, Connemara, Co. Galway H71 DW67 BOOK at www.clifdenbikeshop.ie

Connemara

to Louisburg

to Westport

Sheeffry Hills

Mweelrea

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Renvyle

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Clonbur

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Kylemore Abbey 49

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Maam Cross

Derroura

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42

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Ballynahinch Castle Hotel................. 23 Ben Lettery Hostel.............................. 90 Blue Water Fishing.............................. 80 Books at One Letterfrack...................24 Brigit's Garden.......................................26 Coffee Cottage..................................... 35 Connemara Golf Links.........................37 Connemara National Park................. 40 Connemara Sands Hotel & Spa........41 Connemara Sheep & Wool Centre.68 Connemara Smokehouse...................42 Inishbofin Island Ferry .......................47 Kylemore Abbey & Gardens.............. 49 Oceanskin Clinic................................... 88 Cong O’Dowd’s Seafood Bar ..................... 60 Oliver's Seafood Bar........................... 63 Real Adventures................................... 66 Standún .................................................. 69 Sweathouse Sauna.............................. 85 The Point Pony Trekking ...................71 The Twelve Hotel & Restaurant...... 73 Western Kingfisher Sea Angling.....92 Headford Wildlands................................................74

N59

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Oughterard

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60 35 Roundstone

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Loop 1 Sky Road loop 16/20 km Loop 2 Errislannan / Derrigimlagh 14/18 km Loop 3 Cleggan / Claddaghduff 31 km Loop 4 Roundstone / Ballyconneely 40/44 km Loop 5 North Connemara 57 km Derroura MTB Trail 10km Lettershanbally Forestry MTB Trail 8km Cappaghoosh MTB Trail 6km See Connemara.net for maps of each route

Rosmuc

Kilkerrin Carna

Moycullen

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GALWAY CITY

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Beaches

Spiddal

69

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Site of Alcock and Brown Transatlantic Flight

Barna

73

Site of Marconi Station

This map is not to scale because small seagulls are annoyingly hard to draw. Page 13

SPECTACULAR VIEWS • VISITORS WELCOME

THE CLUBHOUSE BAR & RESTAURANT

@CONNEMARA GOLF LINKS

#KeepDiscovering

"The Best Boutique in Ireland"

Serving Freshly Prepared Food Daily www.connemaragolflinks.com Ballyconneely, Tel: 095 23502

Sustainable Lifestyle Store

Voted by The Irish Times

One of the Best Independent Shops

by The Irish Independent

www.connemara.net

Find us in The Courtyard, Clifden Station House Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm, Sun. 11am-4pm (#62 on Clifden map) 085 800 0377 www.ohhbygum.ie

Blanket bogs, the fjord, lots of lakes, selfie stops, sea mist, chained mountains, indifferent sheep

drives & day-tours Driving is an ideal way to take in some of the spectacular sights of Connemara

Roundstone Bog & Ballyconneely Loop

Heartlands of Connemara

On the N59 from Galway, turn left onto the R341 just after the worldfamous Derryclare lough with its pine-covered island. This takes you south towards Roundstone and past Ballynahinch Estate. As you approach Roundstone, a right-hand turn marks the beginning of the famous Bog Road that winds through unbroken blanket bog and lakes back towards Clifden (from Clifden, take the R341 towards Ballyconneely and turn left at Ballinaboy Bridge). If you prefer to stay by the coast, continue to Roundstone village. Near it, the island of Inishnee can be accessed by car and is a peaceful walking destination.

Heading west of Lough Corrib and Oughterard on the N59, the beauty of Connemara really begins to unfold before you. Mountains start to rise up in the distance and the terrain becomes dotted with lakes separated by blanket bog and forestry. Five miles after leaving Oughterard, keep an eye out to your left-hand side for the iconic Quiet Man Bridge made famous by John Wayne in the 1952 film.

The fishing village of Roundstone itself is a must-see and a venue for great food. From there, the road continues south past the famous twin beaches of Gurteen and Dog’s Bay, before winding onwards through a rocky moonscape on one side and a jagged coastline on the other towards the village of Ballyconneely. Taking a left here brings you further south again to Aillebrack, Connemara Championship Golf Links, and Doonlaughan Beach. Returning to the R341 and continuing northwards brings you past Mannin Bay, Coral Strand, Derrygimlagh, and eventually Clifden.

Image above: The Bog Road looking towards Errisbeg

Page 14. If you ever catch me wandering as a lonely cloud again, please call my wife.

As you come to Maam Cross, the midway point of Connemara, you may start to notice traces of the long-gone Galway-to-Clifden railway here and there on either side of the road. Continuing towards Clifden, you come to Recess where the Connemara Giant statue overlooks the village car park.

Past Recess, take the R344 right and continue the whole way through the mountain-flanked Inagh Valley, one of Ireland’s most magnificent drives.

The valley is especially enigmatic on calm clear mornings or at sunset, when the unique Connemara light illuminates the landscape. At the end of the Inagh Valley, you can choose to turn left towards Kylemore, Letterfrack and Clifden, or right towards Leenane and Killary Harbour.

Image above: Killary Fjord, Chris Hill

A haven for book lovers in Connemara A comprehensive range of titles in store with emphasis on newly published titles in all genres including Irish, world history & literature.

INDEPENDENT BOOKSHOP OF THE YEAR 2013 VOTED IRISH TIMES BEST 50 SHOPS IN IRELAND 2013

Traditional Smoked Salmon Saumon Fumé

Share in the Roberts family’s incredible passion for handmade quality food - Regular Tastings -

Shop open Mon - Fri 9am - 1pm & 2pm - 5pm

Also available online at smokehouse.ie The Clifden Bookshop, Main Street Tel: 095-22020 Web: clifdenbookshop.com Email: clifdenbookshop@gmail.com

2020 Looking forAdvertisement the Islands Clifden From Clifden, follow Bookshop the Sky Road to the Since its inception in 1997, the Clifden Bookshop has scenic pointproven for panoramas over Atlantic a haven for visiting and local booklovers alike. islands. Continue Streamstown Baya comprehensive Run bynorth Máireto and Nicole, it boasts range of titles in end storeof and and Boolard island.

At the thewas Skynamed Bookshop of the Year in 2013. It includes an excellent range of History, Local Authors, Irish Road, go left on to the N59, and then a quick Literature, Best Sellers, Memoirs, Maps and Guide Books, making it an absolute left again on to L1102 to Claddaghduff. to make thethe most of their trip to Connemara. There is also must for visitors Approaching Claddaghduff, you’ll see the tidal island of Omey, accessible by car and on foot (but make absolutely sure to check the tide timetable on page 24). Continuing around the Aughrus peninsula to Cleggan, your point of embarkation for Inishbofin island (see ferry timetable on back page).

Bunowen Pier, Aillebrack, Ballyconneely 095 23739

Renvyle & North Connemara Travelling from Clifden, go left at Letterfrack village, and left again at Derryinver before you reach the village of Tullycross. This road loops back towards Tully (a different village further on the same peninsula), passing the remains of Renvyle Castle and views of Ballinakill Bay. From Tullycross, take the coast road to the left of the church towards the spectacular Glassilaun Beach. At the N59, go left for Leenane and the Killary Fjord. Those with time on their hands can loop back to the Galway-Clifden road via the R345, the Maam Valley and Maam Cross.

Photo: Omey Island Strand

Photo: View from Letter Hill / Glassilaun Beach

The Galway Gaeltacht

Corrib Drive

Heading west from Galway City through Salthill, take the R336 (Coast Road) to Barna, Furbo, and Spiddal (An Spideal). Home to Radio na Gaeltachta and television channel TG4, Irish is the day-to-day language in this part of Connemara. Continuing on the coastal route, go left at Screebe on the R340 to Rosmuc (home of Pearse’s Cottage), Kilkerrin, Carna, and then continue left towards Cashel, Roundstone, Ballyconneely and eventually Clifden. This route is significantly longer than travelling directly from Galway to Clifden on the N59, so allow plenty of time for stops and photo ops along the way.

From Galway, take the N59 and head towards the charming towns of Moycullen and Oughterard. At both, you’ll find sideroads that lead off to the right towards Lough Corrib. If coming from Clifden, take a left at the crossroads village of Maam Cross and continue through the haunting Maam Valley until you come to Maam Bridge. A right here on to the R345 will take you past lakeside scenery and on to the Joyce country villages of Cornamona, Clonbur (An Fhairche), and, eventually, Cong. Heading west on the R345, meanwhile, returns you to Connemara via Leenane.

Photo: Cashel Hill

Photo: Lough Na Fooey “Back to reality you say… my dear, we never left”. Page 15

Time to get a taste of Connemara

what's on the menu This is your time to explore the epicurean delights that Connemara has to offer

“Local is lekker” is a South African phrase that means food sourced close to home tastes the best. For visitors to any place, local food is also a way to access new surroundings on a deeper and more intimate level. Connemara has known these things for a long time, but in recent years, the West has seen a wave of culinary interest that has driven up standards to new levels. Central to this has been the quality of produce available to chefs, with seafood and lamb the stars of the show.

Where you have a culture of excellent, locally sourced ingredients, you soon encourage gastronomic exponents of all hues who bring with them fresh ideas and dynamism in baking, brewing, smoking, distilling, roasting, etc. This has transformed Connemara into a place of bounteous variety and quality when it comes to epicurean concerns. Here, we’ve assembled some highlights to get you started.

Bon Apétit!

Ballynahinch Castle The historic Connemara jewel might boast leaping salmon and log fires but it’s coming to feel as if its gastronomic landscape is the big draw. Blame Head Chef David Bodas, whose influence is writ large across the classy Fisherman’s Pub, the Owenmore Restaurant with its sweeping riverside views, the Garden Café seated within the hotel’s immaculately restored walled vegetable garden.

Locate: Connemara map #23, advert page 6.

Connemara Hamper Delicatessen Any foodie worth their salt will want to become acquainted with the Connemara Hamper. Small in size but packing a weighty culinary clout, this is a one-stop shop for fine produce (farmhouse cheeses, smoked meats and fish, artisan breads, wine, condiments, confectionary) as well as freshly prepared takeaway lunches. The best of everything from Connemara and beyond, Locate: Clifden map #38, advert page 17.

Bridewell Brewery

Connemara Smokehouse

A big chapter in Connemara’s slow-food revolution has been this craft brewery, Bridewell’s family of draught beers include the crisp Bridewell Blond, the smooth malty Bridewell Red and special limitededition bottlings, all of which are brewed using Connemara water. What’s more, bars, hotels and supermarkets have embraced these hearty drops.

Ask for Bridewell. www.bridewellbrewery.ie

You learn a thing or two about traditional seafood smoking after nearly half a century in the game. This will be apparent during a visit to the Connemara Smokehouse at Ballyconneely’s Bunowen Pier. It’s widely agreed that this family run beechwood Smokeouse produces the best wild and organic smoked salmon in the region, procure their wares online, or select local retailers

Locate: Clifden map #25, advert page 24.

Locate: Connemara map #42, advert page 15.

Brigit’s Garden

Coffee Cottage

We can’t confirm if reconnecting with nature in a resplendent Celtic garden builds up one’s appetite, but if so, Brigit’s Garden is prepared. Placing an emphasis on local producers and quality fare cooked from scratch, its Garden Café is a tranquil gourmet pitstop ideal for breaking up any journey.

The menu takes a come-one-come-all approach to vegans, vegetarians, and carnivores alike.

Along with dramatic scenery and pristine beaches, Roundstone can add Coffee Cottage to its list of wonders. Overlooking the village’s iconic pier and the Twelve Bens, this is a small establishment with big ideas. Besides top-drawer Galway roasted coffee, homemade pastries and sourdough toasties, the smoothie bowls are a cut above, as is its local pantry. Find them @mycoffeecottage.

Locate: Connemara map #26, advert page 9

Locate: Connemara map #35, advert page 19.

Page 16. Judging by the amount of ice cream on the ground we can assume it's safe to lick again, but more practice is required.

MANNION'S Bar & Restaurant Serving Great Locally Sourced Dishes Every Day

Some of the Best Chinese, Malaysian and Thai Food You Will Ever Taste.

Jasmine Garden RESTAURANT & TAKE AWAY

Market St, Clifden See our menu on connemara.net

Market Street, Clifden Tel: 085 216 5982

Open 4:30pm to 10:30pm t: 095 21174

Connemara Golf Links Club House

Food Trucks

As one of Ireland’s most majestic links courses, it’s unsurprising that this corner of Ballyconneely has become a destination not only for golfers of all levels, but also beachgoers, and outdoor enthusiasts. Come for the views of Aillebrack beach and the rugged Slyne Head, stay for the bar and restaurant menus, of which extend a warm welcome to member and non-member alike.

With its larder of fine produce and network of sublime locations, Connemara was a natural fit for the food-truck revolution that has swept Ireland.

The region is now dotted with a diverse array of gourmet outlets run by impassioned foodies for whom the format’s rustic informality has proved empowering. What they are turning out, meanwhile, is among the best food on the West Coast.

Locate: Connemara map #37, advert page 13.

Locate: connemara.net 'Places to Eat'

Connemara Sheep & Wool Centre Café

Guy's Bar & Snug

Perched right on the lapping shores of Killary Fjord with its steep mountain walls, this café's high-ceilinged octagon room looks out on to one of the most dramatic views you could ask for while having your coffee and cake. Home baking and decadent treats are a speciality here, but a robust lunch menu also offers up gourmet sandwiches, Killary mussels, and daily specials.

Cosy, tasteful, conducive to good conversation with friends old and new, Guys has been the heartbeat of Clifden’s Main Street for decades. In recent years, Guys has also found itself garnering a reputation for excellent pub grub. Its ovenbaked pizza menu, meanwhile, has become a lifesaver for families fresh in from the beach and seeking a crowd-pleasing takeaway option.

Locate: Connemara map #68, advert page 8.

Locate: Clifden map #46, advert page 7.

E.J. King's Bar & Restaurant

Jasmine Garden Restaurant & Take Away

A Clifden institution and the town’s natural cornerstone – “E.J.’s” has been the venue for weddings, christenings, break-ups, make-ups, you name it. Mostly, however, it is a place for locals and visitors to be amply fed and watered from its renowned à la carte or bar menus. Once that is out of the way, you’ll be well set for a night of creamy pints and live music.

You’d never have called Clifden the ethnic food capital of Europe, but it came a step closer in 2001 with the arrival of this family-run Asian food outfit that is now embedded in Connemara life.

Chinese, Malaysian, and Thai food – and all the fragrant, aromatic, delicately spiced splendours they entail – are the order of the day. Eat in or take away, the choice is yours.

Locate: Clifden map #43, advert page 3.

Locate: Clifden map #48, advert page 17.

“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” Virginia Woolf. Page 17

Mitchell's Restaurant

OUTDOOR M A R K E T S

WINNER OF BEST SEAFOOD RESTAURANT IN IRELAND 2015 & RECOMMENDED BY THE MICHELIN GUIDE

In the Heart of Clifden

CLIFDEN OUTDOOR MARKET FRIDAYS FROM 10AM

Lunch Menu until 5pm Open Daily 12pm-10pm

Serving the Freshest of Fish Landed Daily

Market St, Clifden, Co. Galway Telephone 095-21867

MAAM CROSS MART SATURDAYS FROM 11AM MOYCULLEN COUNTRY MARKET FRIDAYS FROM 1PM ROUNDSTONE COUNTRY MARKET SUNDAYS FROM 11AM - 4PM

Market Street, Clifden, H71 V272

bar, restaurant, outdoor dining sky sports boutique hotel magnificent sea views

www.woodfieldclifden.ie

Kylemore Abbey Kitchen Café

Marconi Restaurant at Foyles Hotel

You’re probably going to visit Kylemore Abbey, besides stately architecture and Celtic woodlands, the Benedictine nuns are no slouches when it comes to hospitality. Along with its hot menu, the Kylemore Kitchen Café prides itself on homebaking and homemade ice cream, so prepare to loosen the belt. Picnic areas in and around its lush woodlands and Victorian Walled Garden await.

Family-run and maintaining an age-old charm about it, Foyles Hotel and its Marconi Restaurant have been one of the classiest facades on Main Street for more than a century. Its dining room is adorned with history, culture and character, making it one of the more memorable venues to eat out in the town. Afterwards, live music and nightcaps draw you into Mullarkey’s Bar.

Locate: Connemara map #49, advert page 2.

Locate: Clifden map #44, advert page 2.

The Lamplight Wine Bar & Restaurant

Mitchell's Restaurant

It was only a matter of time before Clifden made a space to celebrate the best wines from around the world. Managing to feel both chic and earthy at once, this friendly, cosily lit wine bar and restaurant is the kind of place that is designed to disappear into. Once seated, a handpicked organic wine menu wedded to some of the best cuisine in the town does the rest.

This 2015 Best Seafood Restaurant in Ireland winner is considered something of a powerhouse when it comes to dining out in Clifden, such is its reputation for consistency and quality.

Unsurprisingly, seafood is the star of the show with local fisherman literally bringing fresh boxes of fish, shellfish, and crustaceans to its kitchen door each morning, how on earth could it be otherwise?

Locate: Clifden map #50, advert page 19.

Locate: Clifden map #56, advert page 18.

Lowry’s Music & Whiskey Bar

O'Dowd's Seafood Restaurant, Bar & Café

What does it take to become a three-time winner of Best Traditional Bar in Ireland at the National Hospitality Awards? Drop into Lowry’s on Clifden’s Market Street for lunch (Connemara smoked salmon, toasties, and sandwiches feature on their menu), a dram from their unequalled whiskey selection, or an evening of toe-tapping trad music.

You’ll probably come away with the answer.

Those on a mission to source the best seafood chowders would do well to journey out to O’Dowd’s. A pillar of Roundstone that dates back to 1840, this is among Connemara’s major seafood landmarks, one made all the more enticing by the promise of a harbourside Guinness afterwards looking out on that view. Food-to-go from its café is a welcome addition to the set-up.

Locate: Clifden map #53, advert page 13.

Locate: Connemara map #60, advert page 19.

Mannion's Bar

Oliver's Seafood Bar

You can’t move in Clifden for people with the surname Mannion. Whether they all stem from this family-run establishment (now approaching its centenary), no one can say for certain. Best to concentrate on the fine menu that you’re handed on arrival, what with its Connemara lamb to fresh local oysters, Vegans or vegetarians there all taken good care of. Reservations are recommended.

One thing you can be sure of about a seafood restaurant situated right by the dock of a working fishing harbour is that your food hasn’t had to travel far to reach your plate. This and an amiable, lived-in atmosphere are the reasons to stick your head in the door of Oliver’s for refuelling if you find yourself exploring Claddaghduff and the Aughrus peninsula.

Locate: Clifden map #54, advert page 17.

Locate: Connemara map #63, advert page 24.

Page 18. It's a little known fact that if your soup of day is anything but vegetable, your Trip Advisor ratings go up by 50%.

COTTAGE ROUNDSTONE PIER, H91 D9VO

wine bar and merchants Organic Wines Artisan Foods Lunch & Dinner At The Arch, Market Street, Clifden, Co. Galway T: 095 30863 Visit www.thelamplight.ie

LOCALLY ROASTED ARTISAN COFFEE WHOLESOME SOURDOUGH TOASTIES SMOOTHIE BOWLS HOME-BAKED PASTRIES, CAKE & SCONES LOCAL PRODUCE PANTRY, JEWELLERY & GIFTS

@MYCOFFEECOTTAGE FOR MENU & OPENING HOURS

The Olive Tree Kitchen @ Wildlands

The Signal Bar & Restaurant

Moycullen’s hub for adventure activities set out its stall with good food as one of its core principles.

Hence the Olive Tree Kitchen, where wholesome grub made from local ingredients – including its on-site vegetable garden – can be enjoyed indoors, or outdoors to a soundtrack of exhilarated zipliners.

Freshly baked pastries and a firebrick Neapolitan pizza oven are some of the menu’s talking points.

Aside from its canny repurposing of a key part of Clifden’s built heritage, the Signal Bar in the old Victorian train station deserves applause for how quickly it became a firm favourite in the town landscape. Good quality pub grub has played a part, as has an inviting atmosphere that is as suited to mellow morning coffees as lively evenings on the barstool.

Locate: Connemara map #74, advert page 9.

Locate: Clifden map #33, advert page 12.

The Woodfield Hotel

Standún Cafe

This very recent arrival to Clifden’s community of hotels has made great use of its vantage point overlooking Clifden Bay with a terrace bar and grill as well as an indoor restaurant. A good view alone does not guarantee a happy dining experience, however. That’s why the Woodfield Hotel has come ready-packaged with a sturdy, no-nonsense menu full of traditional favourites done well.

If the good people at Standún put half as much care into their café as they do their legendary family-run clothing and gift department store, you can be sure of a very happy belly by the time you leave Spiddal. Along with hot and cold drinks, there are macaroons, chocolate truffles, homemade cakes, and scones on hand to revive those who tend to shop ‘til they drop.

Locate: Clifden map #75, advert page 18.

Locate: Connemara map #69, advert page 11.

Sands Bar

The Twelve Hotel

Between its white sands and tropical-tinged waters, Mannin Bay has always had a slightly exotic undercurrent, even if the water temperature doesn’t quite chime. Connemara Sands seems aware of this, and brings a sophistication to the spread it offers at its beachside premises that is at once quintessentially Irish while being dynamic.

Local produce and seafood are to the fore.

It’s called The Twelve because that’s the mark out of ten it gets from satisfied diners. We’re joking of course, but this gem in the south Connemara village of Barna has made a real name for itself through a combination of its award-winning West restaurant, The Pins Gastro Bar, Pizza Dozzina gourmet deli, and bakery shop. A proper foodie hub in the shape of a boutique hotel.

Locate: Connemara map #41, advert page 3.

Locate: Connemara map #73, advert page 8.

Honestly, who needs Paris in the springtime, when you’ve got Connemara anytime. Page 19

Find the perfect gift, or a well-deserved indulgence

what's in store Take time to enjoy Connemara’s wide variety of shopping experiences Whats in store.qxp_Layout

Retail is the human heartbeat of any place that we visit, the level where we get to see its faces and personalities living day-to-day in a community. Few places reward interaction with local business quite like Connemara.

Here, business owners lead from the front, whether that’s the shop till, the showroom floor, or the deli counter, and often with deeply engrained family lineages backing them up.

In the West, a simple stroll through a shop door can result in not only finding that something special for you or your loved ones but also a conversation or local insight that you probably never envisaged. Besides these enriching experiences during your stay, there is the sheer quality of goods on offer – hand-picked by a savvy commercial community that has both an eye on championing local products as well as a finger on the pulse of broader consumer tastes and standards.

Books at One, Letterfrack By bringing together books, coffee, and wine, this cosy cultural experience snuggled into a converted former Quaker forge has been one of the great retail stories of Letterfrack. A broad and perfectly balanced range of new releases, classics, children’s, and second-hand titles are available, as well as local artisan food produce such as local honey, chutney, and scented candles.

Locate: Connemara map #24, advert page 22.

Brigit's Garden A green and serene gift shop that lies outside of Galway City near Rosscahill. The store at Brigit's Garden’s Celtic oasis comprises of local handcrafts and literature, natural skincare and aromatherapy products, artisan foods, and lots of nature-based toys for children. Central to their ethos is the sourcing of ethical products that are manufactured with sustainability and environmentalism in mind.

Locate: Connemara map #26, advert page 9.

All Things Connemara

Clifden Bike Shop

With more than 150 local crafts and artisan producers under its roof, everything from ceramics to socks, candles to cosmetics, this shop on Clifden’s Market Street is a go-to for anyone wishing to take in the full array of Connemara’s colours and textures. Browse in-store with the help of its friendly staff, peruse its range of rental bikes, or shop online.

When it comes to getting a real flavour for a place, two wheels always beats four. Based on Market Street, this outfit specialises in getting you in the saddle with its range of regular trek bikes and electric bikes. All the equipment, accessories, safety gear, and route information you could need is here, as well as servicing, repairs, and complimentary refills for tyre air and water bottles.

Locate: Clifden map #22, advert page 23.

Locate: Clifden map #22, advert page 4 & 13.

Page 20. Saving is spending needlessly postponed.

WEAR THE WEEKEND

Féile an tSratháin, an Cheathtú Rua

H EH IRS OF CLIFDEN

For something a little different!

MARKET ST, CLIFDEN, CO. GALWAY TEL: 095-21282 VISIT WWW.HEHIRS.COM

Traditional Galway Hooker Festival Sat 27nd & Sun 28th August Carraroe

MORAN'S

Love Vintage New & Vintage Fashion

PHARMACY

ANTIHISTAMINES • PRESCRIPTIONS • TOILETRIES INSECT REPELLENT • FIRST AID SUPPLIES Main Street, Clifden Tel 095 21273 Special Offers on Facebook – 'Moran's totalhealth Pharmacy'

New & Vintage Fashion, Jewellery, Children’s Toys Market Street, Clifden @lovevintageclifden

hello@lovevintage.ie

www.lovevintage.ie

Clifden Bookshop

Connemara Golf Links Pro Shop

Dubbed one of Ireland’s best bookshops by the Irish Independent newspaper, Clifden Bookshop has an uncanny ability to have something for every type of reader all in one cosy space. Established in 1997 and run by tireless bibliophiles Máire and Nicole, this is for anyone who loves to lose time browsing shelves of fiction, non-fiction, children/ YA, maps, gifts, stationary, and art materials.

You don’t have to be a golfer to enter the Pro Shop. In fact, those seeking stylish and protective outdoor clothing to help fend off the Connemara weather would do well to investigate its range that includes Footjoy, Ping, Oscar Jacobson, and other leading brands of apparel. Golfers in search of a memento from this world-renowned links course, meanwhile, will be well catered for.

Locate: Clifden map #28, advert page 15.

Locate: Connemara map #37 page 13.

Clifden Opticians

Connemara Hamper Delicatessen

Ever since 2004, this family-owned opticians has prided itself on the highest levels of personalised service and attention for every single client that crosses its doorway. Behind the scenes, meanwhile, it ensures that not only the leading innovations in optometric care are available but also the latest international styles in eyewear, including Gucci, Prada, Oakley, Maui Jim, and more.

A foodie landmark of Clifden, one crammed with the best of artisan Irish produce (farmhouse cheeses, smoked meats and fish, artisan breads, wine, condiments, confectionary), excellent takeaway coffee, freshly prepared delicatessen fare, and ready-made meals. Should a minor addiction develop during your stay – a likely outcome – an online shop will deliver to wherever you live.

Locate: Clifden map #29, advert page 12.

Locate: Clifden map #38 page 17.

Coffee Cottage

Connemara Sheep & Wool Centre

Sea-salt fudge, local honey, seaweed skincare, jams, chutneys, oils, handmade jewellery, gift hampers, and artwork – if you stroll into Coffee Cottage in search of Galway roasted coffee or its quirky menu of delicious treats, there’s every chance you might just leave with more than you imagined. This pantry of local goodies by the harbour in Roundstone is open daily from 9am.

This family-owned gift shop based in Leenane village by the mighty Killary Fjord celebrates the long and proud heritage of sheep farming in the West. There is something for every budget here, from sheepskin rugs, knitwear and hand-woven blankets to jewellery, books, and gift items. Woolcraft demonstrations run throughout the day as part of the tour, with a great café on site too.

Locate: Connemara map #35, advert page 19.

Locate: Connemara map #68 page 8.

Connemara Blue Art Glass

Connemara Smokehouse

The work of this family of artists has garnered a reputation worldwide for elegant bowls, wall panels, tealight holders, tree decorations, and coasters, all done to its signature playful fusedglass techniques, handcrafted and fired on-site by these masters of the art. If you’re looking for the home of glassmaking in Connemara, look for the bright pink shopfront on Clifden Square.

This family-run business has been in the game for almost half a century. In that time, it has mastered the age-old art of smoking fresh salmon, tuna, herring, and mackerel from the Atlantic, going on to become a household name and Ireland’s first Food Économusée. Regular tastings of Smoked Salmon, Peppered Smoked Mackerel, and more are held at its waterside Factory Shop.

Locate: Clifden map #36, advert page 12.

Locate: Connemara map #42 page 15.

The art of self-gifting takes enormous amounts of practice and self-discipline Page 21

PROVENANCE

NEWLY RE-OPENED

TOWN & COUNTRY INTERIORS

O P E N W E D N E S D AY – S AT U R D AY 1 1 - 5

BOOK NOW - WWW.BENLETTERY.IE

in the Station House Courtyard, Clifden

087 826 9356

info@provenance-interior.ie

EMAIL STAY@BENLETTERY.IE PHONE +353 (0)85 206 2262

LETTERFRACK

Open all days in August 10 am - 5 pm

www.booksatone.ie Eircode: H91 N8PK

located behind the ATU Furniture College in Letterfrack

Hehir's of Clifden

Love Vintage

You could never accuse Hehir’s of being narrow in scope. Clifden’s most diverse lifestyle shop has attire for everyone – casual or formal, from schools old and new, and with footwear and outerwear also on the bill. Many of the handpicked brands to be found at this Market Street outlet are exclusive to the region, with a tight and impossibly warm shop-floor team ready to assist you through them.

A real family affair, this, with a mother and her three children all bringing something special to the table as part of a Connemara retail heritage that stretches back a century. Look within to find new and vintage silks, linens, and cashmere in fantastical colours, fab jewellery, quirky faux fur coats, knitwear, and a new in-store children's section.

Another option is to shop online at lovevintage.ie.

Locate: Clifden map #81, page 20.

Locate: Clifden map #51, advert page 21.

Intersport Gannon's

Millars Connemara

Casual walkers, trekkers, sea-swimmers, all the way to team-sports players – if your idea of a good time involves getting up off the couch then Gannon’s is where you should set your coordinates during your stay. Footwear, team jerseys, and fitness accessories are among the huge array of items found in-store and online (gannons.ie), with staff on-hand to help find just what you need.

Founded back in 1900 by Robert Millar, Millars is a retail centrepiece of Clifden’s Main Street to the point that it is hard to imagine the place without it. Through its doors, there is a real feeling of tradition and style visibly interweaving, right across its luxuriant ranges of clothing, giftware, accessories, and interiors. On top of this, its staff couldn’t be more helpful.

Locate: Clifden map #45, page 21.

Locate: Clifden map #55, advert page 5.

Kylemore Abbey Craft & Design

Moran's totalhealth Pharmacy

Almost as famous as the lakeside Abbey itself is this tasteful and extensive gift shop where items handmade by the Benedictine nuns (chocolate, soaps, conserves, pottery) sit alongside the best national and international brands like Barbour and Dubary, Magee and Newbridge Silverware, and the very best in local crafts from around Connemara.

Put simply, you might find it rather difficult to leave.

Don’t be fooled by its small size – more than a century of dispensing cures and remedies has made this another family-run Clifden institution, one that understands the importance of sensitive customer care. Manager Declan Moran MPSI is the third generation to run the pharmacy since 1911, making Moran’s intrinsic to the health and wellbeing of the town and county.

Locate: Connemara map #49, page 2.

Locate: Clifden map #58, advert page 21.

Lamplight Wine Store

Oceanskin Clinic

This recent arrival to Clifden was an instant hit thanks to its friendly wine bar and excellent cuisine. It has also, however, become the town’s unofficial wine hub through its boutique shop and broad selection, from classic French-style wines to small biodynamic Austrian producers. All palates and budgets are accommodated – their online store even has a personal sommelier service.

Your skin is every bit as unique as your fingerprint – that’s the mantra from this new facial clinic in Oughterard that doesn’t believe in quick fixes or one-treatment-fits-all approaches. Welcoming you with bespoke care and attention is Rachel Powell, who has brought to the village her years of experience as a qualified beauty and skincare therapist in both Ireland and the UK.

Locate: Clifden map #50, advert page 19.

Locate: Clifden map #88, advert page 11.

Page 22. Strange things occur when we shop. We wander about, rotate objects, hum, haw, and sigh as we look into mirrors at the promise of tomorrow. All sense of time and place are lost until we realise how uncomfortable our shoes are and must leave at once.

kavanagh's

MARKET SQUARE, CLIFDEN UNDERGROUND CARPARK AVAILABLE

SuperValu

O’Dalaigh Family Jewellers

Provenance - Interiors

Johnny and Annie began creating jewellery in 1973 and never looked back. Since then, their son Jonathan has come on board, growing the business into one of the most unique jewellery shops in the country. For gift options for someone special, or simply to stop by to watch jewellery being brought to life in the open-plan workshop, this is worth finding time for.

Town and country are the meeting point for this interior design studio that specialises in fabrics and soft furnishings with an Irish feel. As part of its design service, owners Rosie and Sadhbh work with indigenous materials and Irish craftspeople to help locate just the right tone and feel for a client’s home. Drop into their shop in the Station House Courtyard to say hello.

Locate: Clifden map #61, advert page 7

Locate: Clifden map #65, advert page 22.

Ohh! By Gum

Standún

The Best Boutique in Ireland according to the Irish Times newspaper and a firm favourite with locals and visitors seeking sustainably sourced clothing and gifts for all ages. Stepping inside is akin to a walk-in treasure trove, with brands from all over Europe and UK that promote ethical lifestyle choices. Nestled beside the old Clifden railway station in the Station House Courtyard, it’s open Mon-Sun. Locate: Clifden map #62, advert page 13.

Family-run for three generations, Standún has been ‘The Home of the Aran Sweater’ since 1946, and more recently, The Wall Street Journal voted it Best Quality and Value Aran Sweater. Besides Irish knitwear, clothing, gifts, and jewellery are on display at both their Spiddal and Oughterard outlets. Visitors to its online store (standun.com), meanwhile, can avail of favourable shipping rates. .Locate: Connemara map #69, advert page 11.

Pottery Studio

Supervalu Clifden

Travel north from Clifden on the N59 Westport Road. After 2km, you come to a sign to your right for Alan's Pottery Studio. Pull in and become acquainted with the finest handmade domestic stoneware and ceramics and the man creating them. Courses are also available if you want to try your hand. Visitors to the wheelchair-accessible showroom are welcome from 12pm until 6pm.

The best local produce - Connemara Smokehouse salmon, Bridewell beer, Jimmy's Homemade Ice Cream, you name it - sits proudly alongside more familiar brands in this family-owned supermarket.

Every possible base has been covered here - freshly baked breads, a fresh meat and seafood counter, an excellent selection of wines and spirits, takeaway coffee, and a hot counter for food on-the-go.

Locate: Clifden map #20, advert page 9.

Locate: Clifden map #70, advert page 23.

They say time is a healer, in-between times however, shopping is a close second. Page 23

Shop Online & In-Store www.allthingsconnemara.ie

Gifts for family & friends Delivered around the world

Shop | Local | Activities | Gifts

Market Street, Clifden, Connemara, Co. Galway H71 DW67 Call: +353 (0)95 22630

www.allthingsconnemara.ie

m

OLIVER’S

or

All w elc o

SEAFOOD BAR

ef

u day o

t

p ee & Wildlife Tours

B D

Locally Sourced Fish and Meat Dishes

t a e r W e i h n s g i l u Sea F

reat ag

Amazingly Fresh Local Seafood – Cleggan Fishing Village

Half or Full Days leaving from Cleggan Pier Tackle hire available, Groups, Individuals, Experts, Beginners

Call +353 86 277 9622

Cleggan, Co. Galway T: 095 44640

e: oliverscleggan@gmail.com w: oliversonclegganpier.ie

www.seafishingireland.net

useful

information EMERGENCIES DIAL 112 OR 999

+

TAXI SERVICES

BUS EIREANN SCHEDULE

Atlantic Tours Renvyle 087 260 2717

CLIFDEN TO GALWAY CITY (Route 419)

Claire's Cab Clifden 083 367 0471

Departs

D'Arcy Hackney Oughterard 087 653 0417 Danny Ryan Clifden 086 831 3462 Ian Prendergast Clifden 089 215 2180

Departures

Liam Felton PCR, Oughterard 085 842 9568

Monday - Saturday: 9am, 1:30pm & 2:40pm

Robert Nee Travel Bus/Coaches 087 759 5538

Tuesday 9am service is via Leenane

Robert's Taxi Clifden 087 416 1796

Wednesday's 9am service is via Roundstone

Sky Taxi Clifden 095 22299 / 087 666 4048

Friday's 9am service is via Roundstone & Cashel

The Taxi Co Clifden 095 30000 / 085 117 1222

POLICE STATIONS (GARDA)

Clifden Library Bus Stop (Market St.)

Terminus Bus Depot (Ceannt Station) Galway City

Sunday 4:15pm

EV CHARGING POINTS

Carna 095 532 242

CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT (Route 423)

Abbeyglen Castle (ecars)

Clifden 095 22300 Oughterard 091 557 320 Spiddal 091 553 122

Ballynahinch Castle map #23 (Tesla)

Departs

Carna GTEIC (Wallbox)

Terminus Westport Railway Station

Cashel Community Hall

Departures

Clifden Car Park (ESB)

Monday - Sunday: 7am, 11.25am & 4pm.

Connemara Brewing Co. (EV CP)

FERRY TO INISHBOFIN ISLAND

Clifden Library Bus Stop (Market St.)

Connemara National Park map #40 (EVBox)

DEPARTING CLEGGAN Monday

11.30am

*2pm

6.45pm

Tuesday

11.30am

*2pm

7.30pm

Wednesday

11.30am

*2pm

6.45pm

Thursday

11.30am

*2pm

6.45pm

Friday

11.30am

*2pm

7.30pm

Saturday

11.30am

*2pm

6.45pm

Sunday

11.30am

*2pm

6.45pm

Connemara Sands Hotel map #41 (Wallbox)

OUGHTERARD TO GALWAY CITY

Dolphin Beach House (ecars)

Departs

Renvyle House Hotel (Tesla)

Terminus Bus Depot (Ceannt Station) Galway City

Bus Stop outside the Angler's Bar

Rossroe Lodge (ecars) Twelve Hotel map #73 (ecars)

Departures

Spiddal GTEIC

Monday - Saturday 7:45am, 9:45am, 10:25am, 2:15pm, 3:25pm, 6pm & 9pm

DOCTORS & HEALTH CLINICS

DEPARTING INISHBOFIN

Sundays: 12am, 5:40pm, 9pm & 11pm

Monday

8.15am

*1pm

5pm

Clifden Dental Practice 095 227 31

Tuesday

8.15am

*1pm

5pm

Clifden Hospital 095 213 01

Wednesday

9am

*1pm

5pm

Clifden Medical Practice 095 212 24

Thursday

9am

*1pm

5pm

Clifden Opticians Map #26 095 309 95

CLIFDEN TO GALWAY CITY (Route 923)

Friday

8.15am

*1pm

5pm

Clifden Physiotherapy Clinic 086 389 6130

9am

*1pm

5pm

Doctors Practice Main St. Clifden 095 211 41

Departs

Saturday Sunday

10am

*1pm

5pm

Kilrainey Medical Centre 091 555 348

NOTE: Bank holiday Monday first sailing is 10am *Depart Cleggan: 2pm Sailing only in June / July / August / Easter weekends & weekends in May *Depart Inishbofin: 1pm Sailing only in June / July / August / Easter weekends & weekends in May

CITYLINK SCHEDULE

Clifden Library Bus Stop (Market St.)

Terminus Galway Coach Station

Leenane Health Centre 095 422 57

Departures

Oughterard Dental Practice 091 866 018

Daily: 7am, 9,15am, 12pm, 1.15pm, 3pm, 6.30pm

Oughterard Health Centre 091 553 449

Clifden to Cleggan (Ferry Drop) via Letterf rack

Renvyle Health Centre 095 434 65

Daily 10am, 1.30pm, 5.30pm & 7pm

Roundstone Health Centre 095 35851

Visit citylink.ie for travel times & fares Tel 091 564 164

Spiddal Health Centre 095 553 135

GALWAY TIDES AUGUST 4TH - SEPTEMBER 1ST H: High Water L: Low Water : New Moon

: Full Moon

THURSDAY 4

L H L H

03:48 10:10 16:07 22:27

SUNDAY 14

FISHING PERMITS & INFO Clifden Trout and Salmon Anglers Assoc.

Stanley's, Market Street, Clifden map #79

L H L H

Salmon Fishing State licence www.store.fishinginireland.info All Things Connemara Clifden map #22 allthingsconnemara.ie/freshwater-fishing Page 24. As endings go, this one didn’t go too badly.

01:09 07:31 13:25 19:47 WED 24

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04:26 10:21 16:38 22:47

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04:38 11:01 17:05 23:28

MONDAY 15

L H L H

01:51 08:12 14:08 20:27

THURSDAY 25

H L H L

05:06 10:58 17:15 23:30

SATURDAY 6

L H L

05:42 12:10 18:18

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TUESDAY 16

L H L H

02:31 08:53 14:48 21:09

WED 17

L H L H

FRIDAY 26

H L H L

05:39 11:30 17:47 23:50

00:47 06:58 13:27 19:41

03:14 09:36 15:33 21:52 SAT 27

H L H

06:09 12:01 18:18

MONDAY 8

H L H L

02:06 08:11 14:44 20:58

TUESDAY 9

H L H L

03:23 09:25 15:51 22:02

WED 10

H L H L

04:26 10:23 16:45 22:54

THURSDAY 18

FRIDAY 19

SATURDAY 20

L H L H

L H L H

L H L

03:59 10:21 16:21 22:41

SUNDAY 28

L H L H

00:21 06:40 12:32 18:50

04:50 11:14 17:20 23:40

MONDAY 29

L H L H

00:52 07:11 13:03 19:21

05:51 12:20 18:35

THURSDAY 11

H L H L

SUNDAY 21

H L H L

TUESDAY 30

L H L H

01:23 07:43 13:35 19:54

05:18 11:12 17:35 23:21

00:58 07:11 13:43 20:06 WED 31

L H L H

01:56 08:16 14:10 20:29

FRIDAY 12

H L H

06:04 11:58 18:20

SATURDAY 13

L H L H

00:25 06:48 12:42 15:04

MONDAY 22

TUESDAY 23

H L H L

H L H L

02:30 08:35 15:00 21:17

THURSDAY 1

L H L H

02:32 08:52 14:49 21:09

03:38 09:36 15:55 22:07 FRIDAY 2

L H L H

03:13 09:34 15:34 21:56