Cover page
26/7/11
16:36
Page 1
02 - Sirco
26/7/11
16:23
Page 1
26/7/11
16:50
Page 1
Independent shoe shops are being asked to join a campaign to try to force the government to put health warnings on websites selling children’s shoes. Nicola Hyde reports.
news
03
Independents urged to unite in call for online health warning INDEPENDENT shoe shops from across the UK are being asked to join forces to demand the government force websites to issue health warnings to parents. The move comes after the Society of Shoefitters realised that many shops were spending time measuring children’s feet – only for parents to try to copy the measurement and buy the footwear online instead. Spokesman Laura West said: “We’ve noticed more and more parents coming into shops to try to get some sort of measurement for their children’s feet but that means diddly squat because is just a guide point for a qualified shoe fitter. People think they can come in and get the size – but it’s not that simple and it’s so dangerous to their children’s feet. There is no standardisation in children’s footwear – each shoe fits differently. You can’t just get a centimetre measurement and think that’s fine.” Many online retailers offer print out guides to measure feet – which can actually come out the entirely wrong size if your printer is not calibrated correctly. Some even offer videos, showing advice on how to measure your child for a shoe. Laura added: “To be frank, it’s bull. We are seeing more and more nine and ten-year-olds coming in with trouble like damaged joints, toes turning inwards and it just illuminates what a massive problem we are facing with the internet allowing this self service fashion when it comes to children’s footwear.” The Society believes the matter has not been helped by fashion either – slouchy boots, canvas pumps and even high heels are all contributing to the declining foot health of youngsters.
News
New path for Felipe
Laura West She added: “We are now actively discouraging shop owners from giving out any size information to parents and hoping to make them empowered to know that it is for the best. We have to explain to parents that there is no straight forward sizing when it comes to children’s feet. It is a nightmare we are really hoping to get the support of shops on this – not just those who are members of the society but every one. “We are not saying that children's shoes should not be sold online because we are realistic enough to know that it would be impossible to stop and items like, Wellington's, slippers are only worn occasionally, so wont do too much damage, but what we are saying is that if children's shoes are advertised online there should be a ‘Government Health Warning’ like on cigarette packets, warning parents of the dangers of not having their children's feet professionally fitted and
Independent shoe shops are being asked to join the campaign any websites not displaying this warning in a predominant position should be taken to task by Trading Standards. “Shops are continually being asked to measure and having their time wasted when the customer walks out to buy elsewhere – more often online. “With good shops closing monthly and not being able to get a line of credit to bridge these difficult times, it is becoming harder to compete and therefore a lot of expertise is being lost due to this general ignorance and malaise of the subject of fitting.”
Page 5
Alexa helps Supergra celebrate centenary ... Simply’s the best Page 6
Hop,skip and jumping ... Page 8 August/September 2011
3
ITALIAN footwear brand Superga celebrates its 100th anniversary this year and has marked the occasion by shooting a new campaign with British model and TV presenter Alexa Chung, left. Simon Bamber, CEO of GLinvest – which owns the rights for the brand in the UK, said: “We are excited to have Alexa be part of our story, especially for
the centennial year anniversary. She is one of the most influential style icons of our time and a huge Superga fan. Her effortless style and personality suits our collection and brand.” The brand will showcase its new collection for the first time at Moda Footwear on 14-16 August at Stand SE19.
04 - Panama Jack
26/7/11
16:25
Page 1
05
26/7/11
15:58
Page 1
English style means new path for Felipe By Nicola Hyde AN American footwear designer who came to the UK to learn how to design trainers has ended up building his brand around traditional English brogues. Felipe Simoes – originally from Arizona – came to London to study at Cordwainers and was swayed by the craftmanship that went into making traditional footwear. He said: “I started off really narrow minded – I just wanted to make my own sneakers. But now I’ve been exposed to this whole idea of gentleman’s shoes made in a traditional way – and they had such class. “I really wanted to learn more about making them, I emailed any bespoke shoe maker in the world that I could find on the internet and offered to go and work for three months for free, just to learn more about the craft.” A bespoke shoe company in Japan eventually offered to put Felipe up for three months and teach him the craft. He added: “These guys really were the best you can get. They were these three guys in a tiny workshop making these incredible shoes, these £6,000 red crocodile skin bespoke shoes. They hardly spoke English and could barely understand me, but just to watch their skill was something I will never forget. Their work was impeccable and they were
News
Felipe Simoes
my inspiration.” Felipe’s first collection features traditional men’s shoes with a modern twist, broguing which is hand-crafted with brave colour palattes and a nod to his more eccentric, sneaker routes. He added: “My focus is always to end up with a genuinely crafted product. The manner in which it is made is important. The material choices, the colours, the purpose of it all. I want to try to fill spaces in design by making products that I personally would love to wear and I feel are different, or at least attempted to apply details in a different way than what is normally seen. A shoe should be created with care and designed with every detail in mind.”
August/September2011
5
06
26/7/11
15:25
Page 1
Simply’s the best By Nicola Hyde A FOOTWEAR graduate has sparked interest with her new collection of leather shoes – which have only an upper and no inner. Chloe Stanyon, pictured right, who went to Cordwainers, has based her collection on the appearance of nude mannequins in shop windows. The design is focused on the quality of the finish of the stitching – with little adornment or jazz. She admits she raised a few eye-brows when she revealed plans to focus on the development of wet-moulded construction – where the leather is soaked in water and shaped and formed around the wooden last. She said: “In the beginning, it was just about doing something different and creating a new form. “Tan is one of my obsessions, I have never gone for glitzy shoes. I never look twice at those studded, bejewelled ones. I like to keep things simple and highlight the way it is designed – the small details that can only be shown up on a plain canvas. “People who first heard my concept of wetmoulding with no inner were a bit dubious as to whether it was going to work but actually it
solves a lot of problems trying to smooth out surfaces only the once.” Chloe’s aim is to launch her brand to cater for a bespoke and handmade market – as she believes consumers are losing interest in High Street duplicates. She added: “I’m not one of those people who is an obsessive shoe lover – but the idea that footwear is a trade for a way of making a living and having a skill really appealed to me. “I love vintage – all of my shoes are second hand because I find them more interesting and I just think that when you find something like that – something one of a kind – you get a real buzz. “That’s like having a handmade pair of shoes. I think footwear is drowned by the High Street and I think there will be a shift back to quality and care taken over things that will last some time and have a bit of personality to them. “It is much better to walk down the street knowing you have a pair of shoes that you wont spot ten other people wearing – something quite special. “That is disappearing a little but always be a place for someone producing quality items.”
Company opts for a functional feel CAMEL Active is further developing its women’s range after noticing an increase in interest for functional shoes. The company admits it has a long-standing relationship with WL Gore – for the Gore-Tex technology – and that is set to continue as the company looks to capitalise on the women’s trend. A spokesman said: “The many years of collaboration with Gore-Tex is best known in winter footwear, but that’s just the beginning. “Through the close partnership with WL Gore
6
August/September 2011
and Associates, Camel Active footwear has by now integrated functional elements into all shoe segments in the collection, any time – with an especially increasing trend in women’s shoes. The Camel Active licence partner Gabor Footwear GmbH supplies to the increasing female consumer demand for functional shoes and the collection has been significantly extended in that direction.” News
07
28/7/11
16:55
Page 1
08
26/7/11
15:28
Page 1
Hop, skip and jumping to success A DESIGNER from Huddersfield who hasn’t even graduated yet will see her footwear and bag designs hit the shops in 2012 after winning a competition with Gola. Jennifer Brook, a second year student at De Montfort University, was one of 36 students challenged by the brand to come up with new designs that reflected its history and heritage. She took inspiration from sports activities such as running, swimming and the long jump with the layout of running tracks and prints of the words ‘hop’, ‘skip’, and ‘jump’ featuring prominently in the design. Jennifer said: “I really enjoyed the whole experience of this challenge, from working on the brief to interacting with designers and visiting the head offices in London. “It’s exciting to know that the designs I created will be available to buy in the shops. My designs are innovative because they integrate aspects of athletic activities with fashionable designs that can be used for branding across not only the shoes, but bags, t-shirts and packaging.” In April 2011, Gola’s PR and marketing manager Donna Hill and head designer Andrew Sutton invited the students to their studios in
London to present their collections and judge the competition. Donna Hill said: “We wanted to set a brief for a capsule collection that would get people excited about athletics and sport. We were really impressed by the thought process behind Jenny’s designs and were excited to see
how she would progress with her idea. From start to finish, Jenny executed her ideas very well and produced something that would work commercially for our target market.” Jennifer was also awarded £500 for creating the collection, which Gola has named Next Generation
to celebrate and represent young and upcoming design talent. Fellow footwear design student Loretta Glendinning, 23, from Hackney, London, was named the runner-up of the competition, winning £150 for her trainer designs based on vintage styles worn in 1948.
Independent shoe shop owners Tony and Carole Baker have won a twonight break in Dorset. The couple – who own Peppermint in Dartford – won the weekend break after entering a competition run by the Jacobson Group that rewarded customer loyalty.
Jon Paul Grogan as been appointed as sales executive for the Jacobson Group for the Babycham footwear brand. He will be responsible for selling the branded footwear and accessories to key, targeted accounts alongside his current role selling Gola Classics footwear and bags. The Babycham collection targets the young female who likes fun and spirited footwear and will retail from this season (Spring, Summer 2011.)
8
August/September 2011
News
09
28/7/11
14:45
Page 1
10
26/7/11
16:08
Page 1
28/7/11
16:36
Page 1
Six up-and-coming footwear designers have been hand-picked to be showcased to the trade as part of a special partnership between Pure and the British Footwear Association. Nicola Hyde reports on who made the grade.
features
11
Showcase opportunity given to emerging designers ‘THE Designer Collective’ will launch at the August show with a talented line up of emerging footwear designers, picked by a judging panel of industry leaders. Chelsea Paris, CLEO B, Freya Rose, The Michael Lewis Shoe Collection, Miista and Minna Parikka made it through the selection process and will be showing at Olympia’s Upper Gallery this season. Their collections will also be showcased to British fashion icon Zandra Rhodes, who will be given a tour of their stands after she appears on the Pure stage on the Monday. Pure’s head of footwear Vicky Ogden said: “It is one of our key objectives at Pure London to nurture emerging talent, and not only will the Footwear Designer Collective give these amazing brands a springboard, it will offer our buyers something fresh and innovative to make their collections stand out next season.” The brands are: Fashion-forward footwear brand Miista is based in London’s Hackney, founded by Laura Villasenin. Standing against uniformity in a world that has become cluttered with carbon copies, Miista brings an uncommon beauty to the street. British luxury label, CLEO B, which launched in 2008, embodies the charisma and design flair of its founder Cleo Barbour. With a standalone boutique in Belgravia, and stocked by London’s Dover Street Market, Cleo B has been named as the new shoe
Features
Welcome to Moda ... Starts Page 13
California theming ... Page 16
Made in England Pages 20 & 21 August/September 2011
11
Chelsea Paris
brand to watch by British Vogue, The Financial Times and Grazia. Luxury womenswear designer Chelsea Paris combines bold design elements from the old world of French culture, with African heritage and British sensibility. The shoes are all handmade in Italy. With exquisite special occasion and bridal shoes, Freya Rose will showcase the very finest materials, such as French lace, freshwater pearls, cubic zirconia and heels adorned in mother of pearl. Fast gaining international recognition, The Michael Lewis Shoe Collection are known for their high-fashion design aesthetic and superb Milanese quality. Helsinki-based Minna Parikka’s accessories have graced the feet of women all over the world, including Lady Gaga, Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas, Paloma Faith, Beth Ditto from the Gossip, and Dita von Teese. Richard Kottler, chief executive of the BFA, said: “Pure has got a proven record of dealing with young and up and coming designers but because it’s a London show that means it’s an expensive one and some new companies just can’t afford it. “Shops always have to offer something different but they don’t have time to see every designer that comes knocking on their door.” Pure London will also be supporting the Footwear Designer Collective once again on 12 – 14 February 2012.
CLEO B
Michael Lewis
a Minna Parikk
12
26/7/11
16:54
Page 1
Editor’s comment
Out on a Limb cover story
Nicola Hyde Editor INDUSTRY experts are planning to appeal to retail guru Mary Portas for help in stopping the growing trend of independent shoe shops going out of business. The week, Out On A Limb spoke to Laura West, from the Society of Shoefitters, who says she thinks it’s about time the industry asked for help from an expert. Laura’s biggest concern is one shared across the industry: credit. There was a time when retailers had halcyon days of being able to forward order on credit without having to worry about scraping the cash together up front and having to turn over stock fast to generate cash to buy new. An increasing number of suppliers have been forced to tighten up their regulations as they have to insure the debt – and insurance companies have become more strict. People who might be thinking of setting up as an independent shoe shop are soon put off when they discover they may not be offered any credit at all – and may have to pay up front for all their orders – of which only 60 per cent may sell, leaving them with a cash flow issue for next season. If retailers are late paying a bill, if they forget, or delay the payment due to a lack of cash – it’s all noted and goes against their credit lines. As Laura put it: “It’s a slippery slope – there has to be something we can do. I would be delighted to speak to Mary Portas about this nightmare situation our industry is heading towards to see if she has any ideas.” Added to this, rising rates, apathy from consumers and independents who feel they are being squeezed out of the High Street and it is a worrying time for the industry. But we have faith: we think there’s good news out there. OOAL would love to hear from independent shoe shops who feel they have story to tell. If you think you offer something unique and would like to be featured in our magazine for free, email nl@whpl.net with a brief outline of why you think we should feature you.
12
August/September 2011
Feel the hush ... FOR Spring Summer 2012, Hush Puppies welcome's everyone once again to ‘Feel the Hush’. Not just a brand campaign, ‘Feel the Hush’ is a celebration of Hush Puppies’ core brand values – casual, comfortable, style. The campaign takes inspiration directly from the brands heritage and iconic Basset Hound which combines a soft, lovable and youthful spirit that has defined the brand right from the start. Hush Puppies continues to draw on its heritage for SS12; successfully combined with young innovative designs to create stylish, desirable and comfortable products. The 1958 collection continues to be
one of the brands key focuses. The collection is inspired by the rich and authentic heritage of Hush Puppies. The 1958 collection brings forward Hush Puppies’ original comfort, offering a classic approach to contemporary styling. SS12 sees the introduction of a collection of ladies leather veneer stacked heels all with wolverine suede uppers in a selection of vibrant colours, ideal for the summer season. ‘Laid back luxe’ a collection of men’s casual footwear is introduced for SS12. This very simple uncom plicated footwear with overt comfort embodies relaxed style and is offered as a boot, lace up and slip on, all with
wolverine suede uppers. This great collection of ultra casual footwear is absolutely Hush Puppies – soft, unlined, deconstructed and laidback. As the general trend in ‘sports’ footwear continues to look more relaxed. The Body Shoe collection for SS12 offers the casual style that the consumer is looking for whilst maintaining a strong hold within the health and wellness category. For the children’s collection, only Hush Puppies is able to offer a unique set of precisely calibrated foot beds for each shoe, allowing each foot to be fit individually for both width and depth. For SS12, there is an extensive back to school offering providing a wide array of choice. Hush Puppies the Global leader in casual footwear. Hush Puppies will be exhibiting at Moda Footwear on Stand X4. For more information call Andy Cockayne on: 0207 860 0100 or visit: www.hushpuppies.com/uk
Features
13
26/7/11
16:16
Page 1
14
26/7/11
15:31
Page 1
Welcome to Moda ... SEMINARS on e-commerce selling, stock management and turning profit will be on offer at this season’s Moda event, to be held at the NEC. The free seminar programme will see experts covering a variety of key topics – Dennis Reid, chairman of Retail Performance Specialists (RPS), will talk about taking a business to the next level of growth and look at the strategies used by an award-winning independent retailer to increase sales by 20 per cent inside 12 months. David Mackley, managing director of Intelligent Retail and SEO consultant Peter Shorney, will lead a discussion focusing on driving sales on e-commerce websites. Retailers will have practical advice to act upon to increase Google rankings and how to create the right first impression for a home page. A spokesman said: “Other expert speakers addressing various retail issues include Thierry Bayle, director of fashion retail management company, Management One, who will guide retailers through the golden rules of starting and developing a business.
14
August/September 2011
Moda Preview
The seminar aims to leave retailers with a clearer vision of how to implement practical tools for stock management, marketing and also how to be a more effective buyer. Tony Scott, managing director of Retail Spa, will be looking at how money can be saved in a business if considered properly, advice will include keeping track of stock levels and forecasting what these will be by the end of the season and how having these disciplines in place will ultimately save cash and increase sales.” Iconic American brand Wrangler, urban trendsetters Drunknmunky, Italian plimsoll label Superga as worn by many famous faces and Rocawear from hip hop star Jay-Z are just some of the major new names that will be in attendance this season. German label Ara hits Moda for the first time with its range of high quality waterproof boots, newcomers Cocorose London will show a design-led range of hand-crafted
foldable pumps and American new arrivals ZigiNYwill deliver a selection of glamorous flats, heels and boots. The three-day event takes place on 14-16 August 2011 at the NEC Birmingham.
Features
15
26/7/11
16:20
Page 1
Shoes with that special something CAPRICE’S new Spring Summer 2012 collection once again marries up fashion and comfort. The colour palette goes from light, natural hues to indigo, orange and yellow with materials like velour, nubuck leather and smooth leather. Styles are trimmed with jewel stones, rhinestones and beads and Caprice has also attached a great deal of importance to sole design. A spokesman said: “For this new collection, Caprice’s shoe creators have developed beautiful wedge
coverings which give the shoes that special something. Highly flexible soles with a range of heel heights make walking a particularly comfortable and pleasant experience.” A new H width catalogue for spring /summer 2012 with hand-sewn, ultra-light and highly flexible H width designs will also be made available to shoe stores ready for when the new round of orders begins.
Chatham Marine will launch its Spring Summer 2012 footwear Collection at Moda on stand Y7. The company will also relaunch its entire clothing line at the show building on the existing success of the G2 footwear line, which offers a unique two-year guarantee. Managing director Philip Marsh said: “The two year guarantee on our G2 range shows we really care about the quality of our products, reflecting the confidence we have in them, and offers a real USP for
the retailer. “Our G2 deck shoe styles, Sloop and Schooner, were big sellers this year, really flying off the shelves, and for next summer we have extended the range to include sandals. “For the retailer, it’s an opportunity for even greater growth in our key summer business.”
The new Front London range combines classic formal styles with modern touches. The aim of the brand is to provide styles that are in line with current trends and to give the wearer the comfort he deserves. Shoes that can be worn all day in the office and still look good and feel good when out for the evening with mates. A spokesman added: “We also offer a good instock service which is a big plus for the modern independent retailer. By doing this the brand has become stronger by backing styles that have sold well.” Front has aimed at the younger customer too with key formal styles in boys sizes starting at size 33. see us on stand T5 – HALL 20 Moda NEC
Features
Moda Preview
August/September 2011
15
16
26/7/11
15:33
Page 1
Legero will be launching its latest SS12 collection at Moda this season. The range features sport sandals and casual wear which features things like breathable leather lining and fashional wedge heels. A spokesman said: “Sport sandals are the convertibles of the shoe world. When the weather is hot, they’re more than just an essential piece of footwear – they’re also a fashion
16
August/September 2011
statement. Simply being open on top is not enough. For trekking and athletic activities, they also have to have a lot going on on the inside – for example, super-light, non-slip rubber soles, soft neoprene lining and an anatomically correct wellness insole covered in micro-suede. In other words: the best sandals have to offer a complete package if they want to attract the attention of customers.”
Moda Preview
California theming THE Rocket Dog footwear collection for Spring/Summer 2012 launches at Moda with a mix of colours, textures, prints and finishing touches. Ranging from beach flats through sporty pumps to glamorous heels, the collection encapsulates the Californian roots of the brand. Additional animal and tribal prints add depth to the variety of patterns available across the collection and the spectrum of styles incorporate cut out detailing, metallics and
animal textures. Pure and simple is also a theme for the SS12 collection, mixing floral prints alongside textiles including crochet, macramé and lace. A natural vibe is embraced by the designers for summer and layering and woven textures appear frequently in a colour palette inspired by canvas, hemp, cotton and raffia. The Rocket Dog SS12 collection will be at Moda Footwear on stand W10.
Features
17 - Noel
26/7/11
16:44
Page 1
18
27/7/11
09:16
Page 1
Wedges play key role in 2012 collection The Gant Footwear Spring/Summer 12 collection takes inspiration from three themes – All American Prep, An American in Morocco, and Navy Nautical. The colour palette on the women’s range spans from burnt tomato to azure blue with everything in between. Wedges are a key part of the collection, a variety of uppers on an espadrille sole. There will also be a new sandal range in soft leathers and suedes with subtle branding to sit alongside shoe boots with light suede uppers.
A perfect collaboration MARUTI Footwear is working with Dutch shoe designer Dick Boons to create a sandal collection for Spring 12. The philosophy of Maruti and its passion for footwear ensure a perfect collaboration; focusing on designing a sustainable collection using unique products. The collection consists of four sandals in earth tones, consistent with the Maruti colour palette. Sitting alongside this is a selection of ballerinas in
For Men, suede and canvas play a big part in the Spring range with a fantastic selection of loafers and chukka boots. Also on offer are a wide range of deck shoes with iconic Gant styling. Gant Footwear will be showing at Moda in August, stand X10.
18
August/September 2011
Moda Preview
corresponding colours. Also for women are a good range of wedges, some bright, some tonal. The men’s collection sees sporty sneakers on a unique sole unit outlined in rope, inspired by the espadrille look. There are also brushed suede brogues in tonal colours and laceless shoes in washed leather. Maruti will be showing at Moda in August, stand X10.
Features
19 - Camel
26/7/11
16:45
Page 1
20
28/7/11
16:42
Page 1
Established for over 100 years and manufacturing shoes in Norwich for 75 of those, the Florida Group is leading a campaign to keep it British and is fighting for a resurgence of the Made In England ethos. Nicola Hyde reports.
Proudly keeping it British IN THE 1990s, the Van Dal factory in Norwich employed over 300 people who were manufacturing around 600,000 pairs of shoes every year – but increasing cost pressures meant eventually the company had to buckle, and source some of its manufacturing over seas. It is still one of the UK’s manufacturing strongholds, with its
dedicated factory in Norwich still employing about 80 people who deliver around 15 per cent of the company’s goods (roughly 1400 pairs a week.) The family-run company has always sworn to remain committed to UK manufacturing, and says the gap between UK manufacture and China is ever shrinking. This year, while celebrating its anniversary, the
Right Royal celebration PADDERS have designed a collection of special ladies shoes with a regal red, white and blue theme for the Queen’s Jubilee celebrations next year. The two ranges have four super soft leather moccasins Elizabeth, Victoria, Alexandra and Catherine and two elegant leather wedges Zara and Anne. Both ranges reign with soft leather uppers, linings and insoles, lightweight rubber or PU outsoles and a trade price of
20
August/September 2011
£33.60 and £31.95. The company is also offering retailers the chance to win £500 of hotel vouchers for the best window display during the Diamond Jubilee festivities. Full details of the competition will be released at Moda. Padders will be holding court on stand Q10 at Moda in August and G24, Hall 6 (new location) at GDS in September. Details from Mike on 01536 534970 or email mike@padders.co.uk
company plans to push forward with a drive to bring back interest in the Made In Britain ethos. Managing director Tony Linford said: “The whole idea about Made In England and handmade is becoming more and more important in the minds of consumers and that trend is really growing. This whole idea of environment and organic is making a comeback. Cost pressure is still enormous – but that gap is narrowing all the time and I think now is the time we have to capitalise on that. ‘It’s certainly happening in other areas, but the unknown quantity is how quickly will consumers recognise and pay the premium for Made In England footwear. “It’s not in our industry yet but I think its going to come and we would be very supportive of that happening.” At the moment, Tony estimates the gap in cost between UK manufacture and China/ India is around £5-a-pair cost to the wholesale price – adding around £20 onto the tag for consumers. He admits its a big leap for retailers to make in already difficult times. “I don’t have a magic wand but we have to figure out how to square that circle for our retailers that are already facing high rents and increasing pricing demand from consumers. “The starting point has got to be that the consumer is prepared to do it and we are keen to support that education process as to the work we do here. We are in a position to be a catalyst – we have to do something to protect the British part of our industry as we have buying functions and design going out of the country all the time.” Florida Group chairman Simon Goodman says the shoe trade is in his DNA. He took over from his father in 1984 and admits it was painful for him to watch the manufacturing numbers drop from almost 10,000 pairs a week to 1,400 now.
Florida Group chairman Simon Goodman He added: “We don’t want to see the skills dying out in the UK industry. It’s all well and good going to over seas manufacturers but we have to say we can do it ourselves.I love it in the factory – it’s been my life for a long time. “It’s been terribly sad watching the demise of skills in the UK but now there is becoming a kudos for the Made In Britain label and people are realising that China is not the be all and end all. “I remember the people who worked here through the years, I remember how it was in the 50s when you'd hear the screams of the equipment on the concrete floor and I remember you had to walk the entire length of the factory to get to the loos – and when you where in there you could talk to the woman next door. “My first memory being taken by my father in to the factory which was at the top of a hill and he let me ride that bike down the hill, gaining speed as I went. I love it here – it’s my DNA.” Features
21
26/7/11
15:36
Page 1
Made with tender loving care ... ONE of the UK’s last footwear manufacturers celebrated its 75th anniversary in style by opening up its factory to shop owners so they could see how shoes are made. The Florida Group – behind the Van Dal label – have been manufacturing in Norwich for 75 years and – despite growing pressure from overseas – still manufactures around 15 per cent of its goods in the UK. During the 1990s Van Dal employed over 300 people who – in one year alone – manufactured over 600,000 pairs of shoes. In 2001, due to increasing financial pressure, operations were established in India and later, in 2005, in China – but the company is still determined to keep the Norwich base going.
Features
Managing director Tony Linford said: “In these 75 years, we have developed a lot of long-standing relationships. We’ve got a retailer that has been with us trading since 1957, and several others who have been with us since the 60s and 70s – these are really long-standing customer relationships and we thought it would be nice to just get together and tip our hat to them and the staff that have remained loyal to us.” Around 80 staff are still based at the company now – Yvonne Lake and her husband Alan have clocked up nearly 100 years’ service between them after they both joined the company in the 1960s and still work in the manufacturing side now.
August/September 2011
21
22
28/7/11
16:43
Page 1
Timeless styles with a modern twist Spanish brand Le Freak makes its debut into the UK footwear market at Moda this season. The company – which is pitching small orders for independents – will be at stand U8.
IKON Footwear continues to respond to current fashion trends, incorporating contemporary styles with new leathers and a targeted colour palette. Boots continue to be on trend with an evolving collection of semi formal fashion shoes exemplified by the ubiquitous brogue. For Spring/Summer 2012, Ikon are
expanding their offering of the classic brogue, with washed leathers providing a vintage feel along with vibrant suedes, adding a splash of colour into your summer wardrobe. Key trends include a new A line loafer and boat shoes in new exciting leathers and suedes. The Original Ikon range provides
“echoes of an era” with its retro inspired fashion footwear. From a tassle loafer to a desert boot, or a bowling shoe to a spatz style classic, the Original collection features timeless styles with a modern twist. See us on stand U4 Moda UK Tel: 02476 324670 Web: www.ikonfootwear.co.uk
‘Shoes that fit like a glove’ THE exciting new Spring and Summer collection from JJ Footwear is promising to redefine the standards for both style and comfort. The company’s unique fitting system means these shoes and boots fit like a glove. A spokesman said: “For many women the Spring/Summer season is a source of intense disappointment as they see the new styles enter the shops only to discover they can’t fit into them. JJ
22
August/September 2011
Footwear has the solution. The range uses manufacturing technology refined over the last 10 years to offer a full range of width fittings and sizes.” Meanwhile the company has reminded retailers that its Never Out Of Stock Programme – or NOOS – takes the pressure of having to maintain a full range for the Autumn/Winter season. With NOOS you never need to suffer the disappointment of losing a sale because you don’t have the stock.
Moda Preview
Nina Townsend, UK Business Manager, JJ Footwear , nina.townsend@talktalk.net, mb 07713 597 138 Tel 01799 531 223 Our stand details at MODA are Q41 Hall 19
Features
23 - Bisgard
26/7/11
16:46
Page 1
24
26/7/11
16:11
Page 1
Quality you can trust WHEN product development company Aegis Shoes Ltd took on the brand licence for Pod footwear in 2008, it was very clear from the onset the direction in which they wanted to take the infants’ shoe brand Podlers. By adopting a design philosophy to create beautifully crafted infants’ shoes, using superior quality materials such as super soft leather uppers, sturdy yet flexible genuine rubber soles and breathable fabric and leather linings, together with the bold Podlers’ branding and use of bright block colours, the Podlers’ identity was soon becoming recognised as a brand in its own right. Three years on and the Podlers’ philosophy is as strong as ever. Following the release of the AW11 collection, the Podlers’ development team have been working hard to source new leather suppliers to achieve brighter and more diverse colour variations for the SS12 collection, which holds host to a collection of lime greens, hot pinks, electric blues and pillar box reds. And despite rising material and production costs, Podlers have been
24
August/September 2011
determined to keep their shoes competitively priced whilst still retaining the high quality that the brand is known for. With so many footwear brands venturing down the synthetic route, Podlers have placed even more emphasis on their ‘Quality you can trust’ campaign, which is strongly used throughout the core Pod ranges. Furthermore, because Podlers are keen to support independent retailers, they offer low minimum order quantities, giving them an opportunity to select a variety of styles and colour combinations across the range, without having to hold a huge amount of stock, which for many retailers is no longer possible. The Podlers SS12 ‘Tea Party’ collection is set to be the strongest collection to date with styles such as Strawberry Shortcake and Liquorice as the predicted favourites. It will be premiered at Moda on stand X9. (Look out for the Podlers’ toadstool)! Wholesale enquiries:T: 01234 240 440 F: 01234 240 901 www.pod-footwear.com
Diagnostic system range debuts at Moda A RANGE of children’s footwear which uses a diagnostic system for little feet is making its foray into the UK market and is showing at Moda.
A spokesman said: “The Memo Diagnostic system recognises abrasion zones in specific areas of the foot and acts preventively.
Although manufactured and sold across Europe for many years, Memo shoes are now available in the UK from Equip To Move Ltd.
“Memo also produce a range of shoe inserts that can be worn inside the shoe to protect the foot.”
Kool for Kids incorporating Kids @ Moda
Features
25
27/7/11
09:18
Page 1
26
27/7/11
09:19
Page 1
Dinosoles, the patented shoes with a 3-D rubber dinosaur on the side, flashing led eyes and a dinosaur footprint, will be showing at Kids at Moda.
Chipmunks is a new collection of children’s shoes which will be appearing at Moda. The majority of the range is made from leather with boots, shoes, sandals and also lightweight canvas making up the collections.
Designed in Italy, made in Croatia and now coming to show in the UK – superbrand Froddo will be making an appearance at this year’s Moda show. The brand – which has sizes ranging from sizes 17-40 – has held super brand status since 2009. It will be showcasing its new collection.
Agatha Ruiz De La Prada will showcase its new collection of children’s footwear offering bright colours, eye-catching trims and lush linings at Moda. The event, in August, will host the largest selection of children’s footwear brands in the UK this season. New signings to watch out for include Pablosky, MAA, Manuela de Juan, Popsies, Memo Shoes, Stuart Weitzman and Chipmunks. Joining the newcomers will be returning brands Garvalin, Lelli Kelly, Ricosta, Robeez and Primigi.
26
August/September 2011
Kool for Kids incorporating Kids @ Moda
Features
27
26/7/11
16:18
Page 1
product showcase product showcase product showcase Funky and foldable option for big night-out TIPSY Feet are catering for the addon sale market with a funky range of foldable, flat shoes designed to save the soles of ladies’ feet after a big night out. The shoes fold up to be packed inside a handbag and have been on the market since 2007. Now, the company has a wholesale-only website and five designs have been updated. Spokesman Mike Irving said: “The Tipsyfeet come in a patented, colour co-ordinated pouch that unfolds to become a shoulder bag in which the owner can carry discarded high heels and other personal belongings. The Tipsyfeet have many uses: not only are they perfect for after-party purposes but they’re also ideal for travel, driving and formal business functions where heels may be required for style and presentation – at, say, a meeting – but are impractical for the rest of the day.”
Stylish solution to high-heel pain ... ROLLASOLE is the stylish and affordable solution to high heel pain with its patented roll-up pumps. They come stylishly packaged with a separate carry bag for those painful stilettos. The quality of the product combined with strong branding has seen Rollasole feature at the 2010 and 2011 Golden Globe Awards and become best sellers in some of the UK’s biggest fashion retailers.
Product showcase
Rollasole can be sold in both 'footwear' and 'accessory' departments and continues to develop exciting new designs striving to become a globally recognised brand synonymous with innovation, style and affordability.
Strip away the pain Page 27
Turning old into new Page 28
Romance is in the air ...
Page 27
August/September 2011
27
The new Spring Summer collection by Piccadilly focuses on romance with creamy colours, delicate details and floral prints. Development director Ana Caroline Grings said: “Romance is in the air but not the obvious, cliché-ridden romance with ruffles and red roses. This collection is subtly romantic; we use minimalism, rosy and white colours and delicate details.” The trendsetting collection includes styles in lavender, sea green, sky blue, orange and royal blue colours in many options from sandals, flats, ballerinas, to wedges and smart heels. The collection will be at Moda.
28
26/7/11
15:39
Page 1
product showcase product showcase product showcase
The J-Berg collection is launching this season with a collection of one-off designs that are made from cutting up old shoes and turning them into something new. Out On A Limb’s Nicola Hyde reports.
How eco-friendly Jay turns old into new ... CORDWAINERS graduate Jay Rosenburg says her innovative business idea is something the footwear market has never seen. It’s eco-friendly, sustainable and provides fashion-forward clients with something guaranteed to stand out. JBerg’s first collection features an eyecatching brogue – recycled from four pairs of Clarks shoes bought from Brick Lane. They can be worn in three different ways. Another stand-out is a pair of ankle boots which was made from recycled Dents gloves, handed over as surplus. Jay said: “Rather than living and breathing shoes, I was more interested in spotting gaps in the market and creating something I could take further. “Everything had been done before and I wanted to do something different. I worked in the buying department for a High Street retailer and there’s a lot of wastage and duplicated products with the buyers going out and finding one thing and then bring-
28
August/September 2011
ing it back and using detailing from that with detailing from another and then duplicating the item and saturating the market. “I didn’t want to have just another product. I wanted to do something sustainable, something to tackle all the wastage in the industry.” Jay says her original idea came from researching vintage shoes. While she appreciated the quality and design of some secondhand items, she admits some clients just don’t want something that has been worn before. But by making it into something new gives the footwear a back story – but makes it new again. She said: “I create footwear that can be art as well – so each one has a hook and if you weren’t going to wear it any more you can hang it on your wall and appreciate it that way. The shoes are designed to be worn a variety of ways they can be laced up, left open, folded back – they are only limited by the creativity of the person wearing them.”
J-Berg has plans to expand into bags eventually – and she has already stockpiled a collection of second hand shoes ready to make into something else. Now she’s looking for a brand to team up with, to build a collection using its surplus. She said: “All factories have to deal with wastage – through surplus, old stock or samples. I am looking for an ongoing relationship with a footwear supplier. A lot of companies don't have the money to invest in someone coming in and making their business sustainable – we are all interested in the environment and want to move forward in a sensible way. “They don’t want to spend money on storing it somewhere, and I can offer an opportunity to make it profitable and turn it into money without having the hassle of selling it on Ebay. “I really want to go for it now, while it is fresh and new. I don’t want to look back and think I have missed my chance.”
Product showcase
29
27/7/11
10:45
Page 1
30
28/7/11
16:44
Page 1
product showcase product showcase product showcase Supermodel Gisele Bunchen has announced that she is teaming up with Ipanema for the fifth year for a trend-led footwear collection. This year, the new Ipanema Gisele Bunchen range takes inspiration from delicateness, femininity and the beauty of flowers. The sandals are formed by flowers, in surprising and modern compositions. Feminine lines full of movement make up the insole prints, while flower appliqués with metal finishes lend a special touch.
Bassey break for designer Emily ... DAME Shirley Bassey has catapulted an up-and-coming footwear designer into the spotlight after wearing a pair of her custom shoes to a red carpet event. Emily Lamb custom-made a pair of Swarovski encrusted silver sling backs for Dame Shirley to wear to the Scottish Fashion Awards after Emily was nominated as Accessory Designer for 2011. She said: “I was thrilled to learn that Dame Shirley Bassey fell in love with the silver, hand-crystalled shoes I created specially for her and delighted that she whisked them away to wear for a string of sell out performances. “I’m currently very busy with custom-made shoes, which are experiencing a real growth in demand, ahead of preparing my spring/summer 2012 collection at London
Fashion Week in September – and I’ll be sending a personal invitation to Dame Shirley to join me at London Fashion Week to thank her for her support.” Dame Shirley Bassey was introduced to the label by Scottish Fashion Awards founder Tessa
Hartmann. She said: “She was quite taken with Emily’s sling backs and said they would make the perfect performance shoes. They were exquisite and, just by looking at them, I thought they would be perfect for the Dame – thankfully, so did she, she loved them.”
Roll-out for flip flops ... SUCCESSFUL out-sole manufacturer Amazonas has unveiled its first line of colourful eco-friendly flip flops to the public. The range of flip flops is made of recyclable, recycled and biodegradable rubbers that are good for the planet – and Amazonas also sources the raw materials from Amazonia’s native rubber trees, providing employment for the nearby communities. A spokesman said: “Sustainable creativity is the main concept that defines the mission of Amazonas Sandals; the brand wanted to offer creative and fun designs but with little or no cost to the planet.” “The Amazonas flip flops are made of ecologically sustainable materials including rubber that was recycled from scrap materials such as tyres
30
August/September 2011
and shoe soles, as well as recyclable and biodegradable rubbers.” “This type of vulcanised biodegradable rubber is completely absorbed by the environment within five years and is broken down in a way that its carbons can be used again by living organisms. Synthetic rubbers can pollute the environment for up to 700 years after use.” The official distributor of Amazonas Sandals is Ghetz Footwear. Contact: info@ghetz.com – +44 20 3115 0002 – stand P18 Hall 19 Moda UK
Product showcase
31
26/7/11
16:28
Page 1
26/7/11
15:41
Page 1
Eting gets a handle on luxury leather ...
accessories
32
By Nicola Hyde A NEW, luxury handbag brand is aiming to challenge the reputation of the Made In China label by having all her premium leather bags made there. Chinese-born Eting Liu – a graduate of the London College of Fashion – has launched her first collection this season. Made from expensive leathers, her high-end self-named bags are inspired by the quintessential English vibe of a Chesterfield sofa. She said: “My brand position is affordable luxury, and I fully intend to manufacture in China which will bring down the cost even further. “My main aim is to challenge the Made in China label – people relate it to a cheap, low quality product which I feel is quite unfair.
Accessories
Inspired by the love of origami Page 33
“I know this is based on history but past is past and the situation has changed. Gucci manufacture in China now – it is going through a process of change, there is a new generation of designers and ideas growing and the quality is improving all the time.” Eting’s first, flagship Autumn Winter collection is wholesaling from around £280 and uses bespoke finishing techniques with fine nappa. She has scooped a range of awards – she’s been nominated for The Curriers’ Cup for Excellence in Leathercraft Prize and shortlisted for Professor Jimmy Choo Award. She said: “I think it’s important as a new brand to test the market – buyers want something different which is understandable as there are a lot of products out there. It’s going to be very exciting to go out there and see if people like my style.
Mum’s inspiration Page 34
Company bags new collection Page 33
32
August/September 2011
“I always want something that looks quite unique and that is easy to match with any outfit. Most people spend loads of money on one handbag and then go out and buy an outfit to match it. I want my bags to be an investment, something you can wear with anything, from a dress to tee-shirt and jeans – that you can wear so many different ways that it is worth the money you have spent on it.”
33
26/7/11
16:56
Page 1
Sungmin inspired by love of origami ... A HANDBAG designer has used her love of origami to create a collection which has hidden pockets and features. Sungmin Han, pictured right, a graduate of London College of Fashion, has launched a collection which sees everyday bags transform into something functional. She said: “When I go shopping, I always go for the handbags. In fact, my obsession got so bad that my family told me I couldn’t buy any more bags – so I thought I’d design them instead. “I really like origami – whenever I am sat anywhere, I am always just folding a piece of paper into something else. It’s just fascinating to me that something that starts out flat can become a 3D object and I loved the idea of making this translate to bags. “It took a lot of working out but I really wanted to push the idea of having hidden pockets and bits that turned into something else. One of the bags, when you unfold it, becomes an ipad stand.
Accessories
Company bags new collection
“I think origami is a very good solution for making an interesting handbag that can become something else. It did take a long time to figure out how it would fold in and how to sew it to hold the structure but I got there eventually. “My starting point was if a product has a function but it is hidden, how I can overcome the limitations of such a design. The bag appears to be the same as other bags, but if one section is pulled out, it will be a different shape, or its features can be changed if it is reorganised. So I thought origami is one of solution if I use it.”
Rocket Dog are expanding into the handbag market with a first collection next year, thanks to a new licensing deal. The company – which is known for its quirky pumps – has announced a three-year licensing agreement with DSL Licensing Ltd for Rocket Dog branded bags for Spring Summer 2012. Spokesman Cathy Taylor said: “Partnering with DSL will give Rocket Dog the opportunity to launch into a new category within the accessory business. We are able to enlarge our portfolio and enhance our brand offerings while further penetrating into the Europe market.” The DSL team – based in London – has worked with the Rocket Dog design team in California on the styles for the new range which features shoppers, clutches and purses.
August/September 2011
33
34
26/7/11
15:46
Page 1
Jewellery designer Faisial Shah is looking to provide semi precious jewellery at the same price point as costume rhinestones for boutiques across the UK. Out On A Limb’s Nicola Hyde met him to discuss the unusual move and how he got in to jewellery design.
Faisal’s childhood memories inspire glittering career FAISAL Shah’s love for jewellery stemmed from childhood – his mother is a jewellery hoarder and took him on exotic trips across the world to find bargain gemstones. Travelling through Thailand and Bangkok, Faisal spent his childhood watching his mother barter for gemstones and commission pieces from designers across the globe. He said: “In the 80s, I remember going with my mother and she would have the most fabulous things. It was watching her that made me realise I was at a crossroads, and it was something I just had to do. “I always remember my mum had the most amazing collection of jewellery and she also collected precious and semi precious stones – she would collect ones that caught her eye and then design something herself and have it made
34
August/September 2011
by these most skilled crafts people. “It was the most amazing experience – my mum would travel the ends of the earth to find good jewellery and good stones. She knows her stuff and she would know exactly where to go to buy the most amazing things and I would be be fascinated by watching how these people made something like a raw stone into something so beautiful. “One of my earliest memories is when in the 90s my mum was buying in Bangkok. She’d read about this place that was like a little village that sold stones and wanted to find it – she didn’t have any road sense and we travelled for four hours to get to this little town. It was a dusty little town but she knew what she was about. She sat herself on this chair and made it known why she was there and traders started coming up to her to
show her their goods. “I remember this one man came up and he was really fat – he’d got sapphires tucked into the rolls of his stomach. That’s something I will never forget. My mum was thrilled when I told her this was what I wanted to do – she’s my biggest fan and she’s always coming up with ideas of what we could do.” Faisal has just graduated from the London College of Fashion and is now working on his first collection which will be manufactured. His aim is to provide modern, fashionable jewellery made out of semiprecious stones at an affordable price point. He added: “Jewellery shouldn’t be worn once and thrown away. It should be kept and treasured. I think when you are dressing up best part of is it putting your jewellery on – it just finishes it off. If you are going to spend money on something, you should be proud of wearing it. Buying a piece of jewellery is so important, you buy it to wear for an occasion and when you look back it’s like bookmarks in your life. “I have seen a lot of designer jewellery made out of rhinestones retailing at £1,000 if you are going to pay something like that then why can’t you have semi precious or precious stone – something that will last.” Faisal’s collection was based on fossils and minerals and he used inspiration from their shapes to craft his jewellery. He made a name for himself at LCF for coming up with a faster way to create a jewellery prototype using modern techniques. “I genuinely do believe there is a market for my kind of jewellery which is very original and well made but not too expensive.” Accessories
35
26/7/11
17:12
Page 1
26/7/11
16:58
Page 1
business + technology
36
Small exporters warned over legal minefield By Nicola Hyde SHIPPING experts DHL say small footwear brands who are looking to export into foreign markets have legal minefield to get through – especially when selling outside the European Union. Experts at DHL Express say there is a raft of quirky and unusual customs regulations – in Gambia only odd pairs of shoes can be imported and in Mexico shoe samples to be single shoes only and must be marked or mutilated through the bottom sole In Nigeria, all leather and plastic footwear is prohibited, while handbags, belts, wallets, purses and suitcases of leather and plastic are also not allowed. In South Africa, shoe samples must be mutilated and stamped, while pairs are prohibited and in India they have to be singles or odd pairs to avoid high duty.
Phil Couchman, CEO of DHL Express UK, said: “Many customs regulations are based on complex local issues which can be difficult for a UK small business to anticipate and prepare for and UK businesses often take for granted the free movement of goods permitted within the EU. “Just because we live in a globalised world of international trade doesn’t mean that quirky customs won’t stop you getting your product to market. Not knowing these details could mean the difference between making a sale and winning in brand new markets.” A spokesman added: “The importance of export markets for growing small fashion businesses is not to be underestimated – especially where key growth markets are likely to be overseas – the current value of all British trade is already in the hundreds of billions and research shows that half of SMEs currently
Phil Couchman exporting expect demand for their products to grow in the next six months.”
Organisation announces two more award successes THE organisation which promotes the UK’s footwear manufacturing base has announced two more people have passed its awards scheme.
Business and technology
Penny Fevola of Topshop and Matt Kirton of SATRA have both received the SATRA Accredited Footwear Technologist (SAFT) award after completing training. It covers five key areas of footwear: lasts and fitting, materials and constructions, laboratory test procedures,
product design, performance and risk assessment, and quality assurance/supplier auditing. Penny said: “I feel more confident when talking to suppliers and more assured when making decisions at work. “It was daunting having to revise for exams again, and it was one of the most challenging tasks throughout my career.” Both Penny and Matt were presented their awards by SATRA
chief executive Austin Simmons. He said: “It is great to see them achieve so highly in such a valuable qualification. “There has been a lot of talk surrounding footwear engineering and its return to the UK, so this award is a great way of demonstrating how SATRA still teaches traditional manufacturing skills and how we are helping people employed in the UK industry understand the importance of footwear technology.”
Power to the people ... By Ian Tomlinson, executive chairman, Cybertill
Power to the people ... Page 36
Schuh staff set for takeover windfall ... Page 37
Organisation announces award successes Page 36
36
August/September 2011
Power to the People Is there anything as powerful as the internet? It has brought down governments and businesses. Look at the revolutions in the Middle East and North Africa as governments fall and people are mobilised by the internet and social media. Twitter campaigns lead to advertisers boycotting The News of the World, so it was unceremoniously dumped by News International. This is truly power to the people! Then there is the rise and rise of online fashion retailer ASOS. What can independent retailers learn from this? For me it is ‘ignore the internet at your peril’. There are businesses that believe they don’t
need an ecommerce site. This is so frustrating on many fronts, for example how many times have you been in a store and seen something and not bought it, only to go online later that day and buy it. There are hundreds of reasons for independents to set up an ecommerce business. And when speaking to independents there seems one overriding reason for not being online and that is FEAR. It is now easier and cheaper to set up an ecommerce site than ever before. For example, Cybertill clients can manage their ecommerce site directly from the EPoS system. They can add and remove products simply by ticking a box, and the stock levels are all in real time so you only ever sell what you have in stock. This also removes the ongoing cost of having someone manage
Ian Tomlinson
your site for you. This is just one way of creating an ecommerce site as there are many, many more options. Today, there is no reason why an independent retailer cannot be online taking advantage of the world wide web.
37 Little Me
28/7/11
15:07
Page 1
Brands return after GDS restructure THE organisers of the footwear tradeshow GDS say that a restructure of the concept and a new way of laying out the event has attracted many brands back to the show – after years of being absent. The show has split into 11 different themes – and footwear brands are situated in their categories to make it easier for customers to find them. GDS director Kirstin Deutelmoser, pictured right, says the new layout has already had a positive response – even attracting traditional brands who had been absent at GDS for a long time, like Geox. She added: “Everyone knows where to find what exhibitor. And
not just out of routine but because the themed world concept works and has found equal acceptance amongst both visitors and exhibitors alike.” September sees established brands like Geox, Farrutx and Fratelli Rossetti returning to the show. GDS is expecting a total of some
840 exhibitors from 37 countries this season – including brands new to the fair like Alviero Martini, Ambitious, Bourne, Gianna di Firenze, Callaghan, Lumberjack, Heschung, Ilse Jacobsen & Hornbæk, John Fluegvog, Smith’s American, John Varvatos, Fonnesberg or United Nude and D'acquasparta. And this year, there will be a Brit Edition in Hall 4 where – in cooperation with the British Footwear Association – UK designers like Northern Cobbler, One True Saxon, Ted Baker Footwear, Po-Zu, Laidback London, Esska Design, Kat Maconie, Michael Lewis London and Cheaney Shoes – will be making an appearance.
Schuh staff set for cash windfall after takeover HUNDREDS of staff working for Scottish footwear company Schuh are to claim a cash windfall after a takeover. The payments were announced after US company Genesco stepped in to buy the company in a deal worth over £125m. It is thought that the staff still working for Schuh at the time of the pay-out could get an average of £16,000 each. Schuh currently operates around 59 stores and 16 concessions in the UK – mainly selling casual and
athletic footwear. Genesco bought it for £100m – and included in the sale is the bonus for staff and another one, worth £25m, for members of the Schuh management team, which will be paid in 2015, subject to the business reaching its performance targets. Genesco spokesman Robert J. Dennis said: “Schuh provides us with an immediate and established retail presence in the United Kingdom, a highly experienced international management team,
and improved insight into global fashion trends. Financially, the Schuh business is compelling, with attractive store economics and solid growth prospects.” For the fiscal year ended March 27, 2011, Schuh generated net sales of approximately £164m with an operating margin above nine per cent. Managing director of Schuh Colin Temple and finance director Mark Crutchley will continue in their current leadership of the Schuh management team, which
includes seven division heads overseeing store operations, buying, IT, human resources, ecommerce, merchandising, and logistics. Colin said: “Schuh has gained market share in recent years due to a strong product assortment and a growing store base. We specialise in providing branded casual and athletic footwear styles that are in line with current fashion trends and with a breadth and depth of assortment that is difficult to find elsewhere.”
Loyalty scheme keeps customers coming back A CHILDREN’S footwear retailer which has five shops across Yorkshire has introduced a successful loyalty scheme to entice in more customers. Hopscotch Shoes was founded by mum of three, Maria Atkinson, in 2005 – and all staff are fully trained shoe fitters. And Maria says the service Hopscotch provides is made even more personal due to the loyalty
scheme. She added: “The loyalty scheme, helps us keep track of history and allows us to note customer accounts, this is so we can ask customers how they are getting on when they next visit.” All the shops use an EPoS system from Cybertill which is entirely web-based and allows for smarter stock control, and instant access to do mark-downs and sales on ranges.
Caprice opens easy-access showroom JOSEPH Agencies have opened up a Caprice showroom just off the M25 and M11 – close to Stanstead airport and Stratford Olympic Village. It will be open seven days a week but will be by appointment only and Business and technology
is set in ten acres of grounds. A company spokesman said: “The brand and collection are getting stronger and stronger and in order to support the growth I decided to open up a showroom that is so easily accessed.” August/September 2011
37
38
28/7/11
16:45
Page 1
Boutique Manchester
ARA has increased its range of deck shoes, pumps, casuals and sandals for Spring Summer 2012. The Jenny collection – which focuses on good price and fashion – is made alongside the Ara range using the same proven lasts and manufacturing techniques. Both ARA and JENNY are being shown at MODA UK, GDS in Dusseldorf and MICAM in Milan.
ACCESSORY and footwear event Boutique by Chic moves to Eventcity in Manchester in October and is now re-branded ‘Boutique Manchester’. The event will be held at EventCity – adjacent to the Trafford Centre – and is timed just after the Paris and Milan fairs with the unique proposition of being able to buy finalised collections from Europe’s leading fashion accessory and footwear brands. A spokesman said: “Many of these manufacturers are reluctant to show their strongest, most directional collections prior to the major European events so it is the perfect way to ensure that you get all the latest styles, colours and finishes delivered early in the season. Many brands who will be selling for immediate delivery for those retailers who prefer to buy closer to the time they require the stock in-store.” For further details phone 0161 440 7200
Contacts
TRAINING
Sales Tony Barry – Sales & Marketing Director
Christina Eccles – Reporter Dominic Musgrave – Reporter
(tb@whpl.net) Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 Email: nl@whpl.net
Beverley Green – Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net)
Design & Production
Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734456 Fax: 01226 734477
Stewart Holt – Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)
Editorial Andrew Harrod – Group Editor Judith Halkerston – Group Deputy Editor Nicola Hyde – Editor
diary dates
Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk
RETAIL SOLUTIONS
Pure Olympia and Earls Court, London, 7 - 9 August 2011 (www.purelondon.com) Stitch Menswear Earls Court Exhibition Centre, 7 - 9 August 2011 (www.stitchmenswear.com) KORS show Kendal, 9 - 11 August, 2011. Moda Footwear NEC, Birmingham, 14 - 16 August 2011 (www.moda-uk.co.uk) GDS Messe Dusseldorf, Germany, 7 - 9 September 2011 (www.gds-online.com) Pure: Close To Season London Olympia, October 23 – 24
RETAIL SOLUTIONS
39
28/7/11
17:22
Page 1
40
27/7/11
09:22
Page 1