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Architect Julian Hakes managed to create a buzz around a shoe that only existed in a 3D drawing. The Mojito has taken the footwear world by storm – Out On A Limb editor Nicola Hyde finds out how a bridge architect became one of the leading lights in the footwear industry.
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Julian applies bridge science to his designs RESPECTED architect Julian Hakes worked internationally on bridge design, contributing to bridges in LA and Moscow – but it was when he started to apply that science to footwear that he became renowned. Julian had been thinking about the evolution of the shoe – about the ball and heel and what bears the load. After chopping up a pair of shoes himself, he saw the heels were supported by rafts of cardboard and metal. He said: “I started thinking – is this the way we have to make shoes, or is it just the way it has been done for the last 150 years and we’ve followed on from it? “I looked at the shank in particular and thought about the high heel which is seen as being elegant. But then I started to apply the things I’d learned as a architect, looking at the function and what carries the load.” Julian traced his own foot, wrapped it in paper and started to mark where the load moved to when he walked. The next morning, Julian realised the shoe – a men’s version – would be better with the addition of a heel. He worked up a 3D graphic on the systems he used for building bridges - and put it on one design website. Overnight, it went viral. “It was everywhere – celebrities were ringing me wanting to wear it and I had to explain to them that while the graphic did look real, the shoe didn’t exist. It went crazy and I just had to stop all the PR and not mention it because it just wasn’t ready.”
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February/March 2012
Fashion Week who wanted to feature it on a catwalk show – but with no contacts in the footwear industry, he had no way to make it. He said: “I took a 3D scan of a model’s foot using a 3d prototype system that is used in Formula One and aeroplane design – it’s just not something you get in shoes. Then I found a company in Cambridge who usually made medical instruments that were very, very precise to make it for me. “I was back stage at the catwalk waiting to see what happened – and noone fell over and nothing broke. It was a baptism of fire because there was so much interest. I had a lot of contact from people who owned brands who wanted to invest in the shoe because it was just something they hadn't seen before but I said no to them all because I wanted complete control of it.” Julian did eventually settle on a manufacturing partner who shared his ethos of making the brand affordable in what he calls ‘democratic couture or affordable luxury.’ “I don’t see why things have to be super expensive just for the sake of it. People should be able
to get really high end design at a decent price point. “The great thing about seeing it at shows is seeing people’s response to it. It seems to appeal to all kinds of ages. Even my grandmother, who is 92, loves it, though she may be slightly biased in her opinion. We have been inundated with requests from celebrities but we’ve only had sample sizes so we’ve had to say no to everyone – shops will be getting them almost at the same time as celebrities.” Julian is already working on his next collection – he’s hoping to have a Swarovski crystal version, animal prints and python print. He’s looking at leather cladding and chrome colours too. In future collections, he’d like to add in boots and a flat version. Julian Hakes will be showing Mojito at Pure, WSA and GDS.