eat & drink
Oakwood Canadian Bistro almost hits the mark The Dish by Anya Levykh
C
ontemporary Canadian cuisine has taken many forms in the city of late. When The Oakwood opened its doors a handful of years ago, the little bistro deep in Kitsilano quickly became popular for its towering, cooked-to-order burger (medium-rare, if you please) and their brisket poutine. What could be more Canadian, eh? Owner Mike Shea has created a comfortable, rustic room that seems to attract a steady crowd most nights. Dark wood, deep banquettes, white brick walls and even some antlers on display set the mood, although – by the bye – what is it with all of the taxidermy that has swept local establishments lately? The mood is light and relaxed, as befits the neighbourhood, and the street-front patio gets a lot of action despite sitting next to a busy intersection. As the name might suggest, the menu is all Canadian, all the time. Executive chef Michael Robbins has put together a graduating list of dishes, all sourced within our borders (most sourced within BC). It’s a laudable effort, although I’m assuming the lemon in my drink came from slightly further away. Nonetheless, anyone who sources their proteins from the likes of Rabbit River, Yarrow Meadows, and Maple Hill, among others,
is on the right track. The wine list, likewise, also focuses on BC producers, although Washington State gets some healthy representation, as do the Cote du Rhone, Marlborough, and Napa regions. The dishes themselves, are, unfortunately, hit-andmiss. Rabbit rillette with truffle butter and shaved foie gras was a revelation, served with excellent housemade caraway bread and pickled veg. Halibut with bacon lardons, shimeji mushrooms and cracking was less stellar. The fish was cooked perfectly, but all of the accoutrements failed to provide any contrast to the richness of flavour. Fried octopus was crispy and salty, lightly breaded and delicious, and the accompanying bacon aioli was excellent. But the dish it was served in, a long creviced receptacle, was too narrow for the serving spoon, necessitating some interesting manoeuvering to extract the crunchy shreds of tentacle without spilling over onto the table. Desserts are lovely layers presented in small mason jars, but the trio of offerings were too similar in their sickly sweetness to merit repeat performances. Maple cream with a hint of caramel was made still sweeter by a cranberry gel that grated on the teeth. Goat’s cheesecake with blueberry compote was unimaginative and forget-
Indian Arm
LUNCHEON CRUISE Enjoy Harbour Cruises’ 4 hour cruise into the spectacular Indian Arm, a 30km body of calm waters nestled in the magnificent coastal mountains. While onboard enjoy a delicious catered lunch, panoramic vistas, coastal mountains, hosts of wildlife, the pristine Silver Falls… and much more. GVRD SPECIAL – May 17th, 24th & 26th (must mention this ad to receive this special)
Only $55.00 + gst per person
HARBOUR
CRUISES
604.688.7246 | www.boatcruises.com Space is limited. Reser vations are required. Harbour Cruises Marina - between the Westin Bayshore & Stanley Park.
14
June 12 – 18, 2014
General manager Jeff Parr presents dishes with a decidedly Canadian flavour at the rustic Oakwood Canadian Bistro in Kitsilano. Rob Newell photo. table. A little more variety here would have served them well, perhaps even an all-Canadian cheese and charcuterie plate? Since Oakwood produces its own breads and pastas, and handles its own butchery (fantastic, that), it would be nice to see more consistency and care with the excellent ingredients being used and produced. As for service, friendly and relaxed describes it best, although the girl
looking after us one night seemed a bit too eager to remove our dishes before we had finished them. Since they weren’t in a rush for our table, it was a bit confusing. The rest of the staff seems a welltrained machine, led rather ably by GM Jeff Parr. For a drink and a few bites, this neighbourhood joint will likely keep the locals happy, but serious meals might be more satisfactorily eaten elsewhere.
SCENE | HEARD
Fresh Sheet
The 11th annual Scotiabank Passions gala in support of the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation takes place on Sept. 14. Tickets go on sale July 1 for one of the city’s hottest culinary events. Taste offerings from 21 of the city’s top chefs and restaurants, including Beaucoup Bakery, Espana, West, and Bella Gelateria, as well as soonto-open The Fat Badger, and Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar. DrPeter.org Hart House Restaurant has brought on Michael Genest, formerly of Arms Reach Bistro and Sonora Resort, as the new executive chef. Look for a new seasonally-based menu, as well as a rotating weekly three-course prix fixe for $36. HartHouseRestaurant.com Look out Kerrisdale… Josh Pape and James Iranzad, co-owners of Wildebeest in Gastown, are opening Bufala, a pizzeria, in the tony neighbourhood by end of month. Expect classic
Local Food & Drink Happenings by Anya Levykh
and more inventive pies, as well as a few pastas, sides and salads, and, of course, a fantastic cocktail program. Chef David Gunawan and Dara Young of Farmer’s Apprentice are opening a small wine bar next door to their popular restaurant. A small rotating list of wines will be paired with charcuterie and a handful of dishes. Look for the opening sometime in early summer.
DRINK | DINE Yew Seafood and Bar is featuring lobster and prosciutto eggs benedict as part of their Father’s Day brunch offerings, as well as Steak Oscar with Qualicum Bay scallops and spot prawns for dinner.
All ratings out of five stars. Food: ★★1/2 Service: ★★ Ambiance: ★★★ Overall: ★★1/2
★: Okay, nothing memorable. ★★: Good, shows promise. ★★★: Very good, occasionally excellent.
★★★★: Excellent, consistently above average.
★★★★★: Awe-inspiring,
practically perfect in every way.
All dining dads can also enter to win a night at Four Seasons Resort Whistler and a round of golf at Niklaus North Golf Course. YewSeafood.com The Little District Roadhouse in North Vancouver will be serving up North Carolina pulled pork on June 14-15 for Father’s Day weekend, as well as two dollars off a selection of 13 bourbons. TheLittleDistrict. com Dockside Restaurant is holding a Father’s Day BBQ, rain or shine, on Sunday, June 15, 11am3pm. $32.95 per person ($15 for kids 12 and under) includes a signature Dockside Caesar, a heaping plate of smoked brisket, pork shoulder, chicken or wild salmon, as well as sides and dessert. DocksideVancouver.com Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro is holding an extraordinary fundraising dinner on June 28 in support of The Whistler Blackcomb Foundation. Enjoy a six-
The Oakwood Canadian Bistro | 2741 West 4 Ave. | 604-558-1965 | TheOakwood.ca Anya Levykh has been writing about all things ingestible for more than 10 years. Hear her every Monday on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast and find her on Twitter @foodgirlfriday and Facebook.com/FoodGirlFriday. FoodGirlFriday.com
course tasting menu from Bearfoot Bistro’s executive chef Melissa Craig, served in a private gondola cabin on the Peak 2 Peak Gondola at an altitude of 436 metres. Each gondola seats up to 10 people, is priced at $7,500 per cabin, and includes a pre-dinner cocktail party, the six-course dinner with wine pairings, and entry to the post-event party at Bearfoot Bistro. BearfootBistro. com Araxi Restaurant’s signature Long Table dinners are back and this year there will be a Vancouver event at the Bard on the Beach venue at Vanier Park, as well as events in Pemberton and Whistler. Joining executive chef James Walt for the Vancouver event on August 4 will be executive chefs Andrew Richardson from CinCin, Frank Pabst from Blue Water Café and Quang Dang from West, as well as master patissier Thierry Busset from Thierry Chocolaterie Pattiserie. Tickets are $175 per person. Araxi.com/Longtable
WEVancouver.com