Vittles

Vittles (food & drink)

The White Lion in Broadwindsor is expanding its food offer to provide more services to people in the area. The pub has renovated its kitchen facilities allowing it to offer a pub food menu and it is also planning to launch a takeaway meal service. The new kitchen was opened with the expert help and a Community Services Fund grant from Pub is The Hub, the notfor-profit organisation that helps pubs to diversify and provide essential local services. The White Lion is run by the local community, which was approached by Palmers Brewery, Bridport, who were keen to keep the pub open. Working closely with the brewery, members of the community formed Broadwindsor Community Pub Ltd, and took on the tenancy, reopening the White Lion in April 2022 after a successful community fundraising campaign. The White Lion, which is run by manager Kate Staff and her daughters Chloe and Louise, has already launched a successful Thursday pie night and Sunday lunch, but there are plans to expand the food offer further. All dishes are home-made with locally-sourced produce, with meat and cheese supplied by Nick Tett Butchers, Beaminster and fish from Davy’s Locker in Bridport, and fruit and vegetables from Washingpool Farm, Bridport. Manager Kate Staff said: “The new food offer has been attracting more local people into the pub and helping to create connections. We had 36 farmers meet up on pie night which was a great way to get them talking and socialising. “Our vision is to make the White Lion the hub of Broadwindsor where everyone feels welcome.” Rick Dyke, chairman of Broadwindsor Community Pub Ltd, added: “By expanding the food offer we are giving people another reason to come out and visit the pub. We think this will also help combat isolation in this agricultural community and go some way to improve the health and wellbeing of people in the local area.” Pub is The Hub regional advisor Reg Clark said: “This pub is the centre of this local village offering a place for people to drop in for anything from a coffee, lunch to just a get together for a chat. It is a great example of a pub supporting people in its local community.” n www.pubisthehub. org.uk nTwitter: @PubistheHub _uk n Facebook: pubisthehub

CHEERS ALL ROUND: Reg Clark, left, and Rick Dyke at the White Lion in Broadwindsor

Pub’s Hub deal means top grub

n Pub is The Hub is a not-forprofit organisation which offers independent specialist advice to publicans on rural services diversification or the options for the community ownership of pubs, so they can all provide viable local services at the heart of their community. With a proven track record of rural project development and delivery over the last 20 years, Pub is The Hub has worked with great publicans to open shops, libraries, cafes, community cinemas, allotments, play areas and much more. Since 2013, the organisation has also been able to offer small grants through its Community Services Fund. Pub is The Hub has helped over 600 pubs diversify, with almost 200 of these benefitting from help through the Community Services Fund. Building on its community services work, in 2018 Pub is The Hub conceived its ‘Join Inn – Last Orders for Loneliness’ campaign. ‘Join Inn’, specifically looks to support publicans and their communities to become better connected, helping local people feel less isolated and, in the process helping to alleviate loneliness.

Vittles (food & drink)

Karen Broad lives in Burton Bradstock, with her husband and two mad dogs. She ran The Mousetrap in Dorchester, has lived in France and loves discovering new food producers.

Renamed to include Mr Hix’s brand name, The Fox Inn at Corscombe has called ‘last orders’ for the final time… for now anyway! The Fox Inn was a haunt of mine during my youth. Driving along ‘Toller Down’ on a wild windy night, swirling fog adding credibility to folklore including legends of ghostly figures and headless horsemen. Back then the 400-year-old Fox Inn welcomed locals and travellers warmly, a friendly landlord, a huge crackling fire, church pew benches and cosy rocking chairs. The sausage and chips in the basket, just simple comforting food. It was the perfect traditional pub, and worth any ‘ghostly’ drive. I don’t understand the logic behind launching any hospitality business, in a remote location and during the height of a pandemic, especially as these were the reasons behind its demise. Unfortunately, the consequence is another empty pub and after 400 years, that just seems careless. Landlords and breweries are custodians of these ancient buildings and have a responsibility. These beautiful buildings ooze history from their walls, echoes of centuries of hospitality embedded in their flagstones. Pubs shouldn’t be underestimated; they are a vital part of village life today as they were 400 years ago. Somewhere that has ‘got it right’ is The New Inn at Shipton Gorge, where we find Andrea and her team. This delightfully comfortable pub, run by the village, is the heart of the village and its community is a driving force in its continued success pumping support through its veins. This pub is ‘old-style’ quality. stepping into the bar a warm and cheerful welcome greets you. The food is uncomplicated, homely, and good value, the service, attentive without being ingratiating. This pub is everything a good traditional village pub should be. Al fresco dining is available in the pretty garden or snuggle up on a winter evening in front of the log burner. The New Inn caters for most tastes with a regular menu and specials and food is locally sourced. Theme nights during the winter months, live music in the summer, from walkers to chance passersby, locals, and tourists, off the main road it may be, but people manage to find it as it’s always busy. The New Inn has found that pathway through difficult times and is emerging today stronger than ever, and well deserved. Pubs aren’t just buildings, they are a living, breathing history of a village, and that needs respecting.

DOING IT RIGHT: The New Inn at Shipton Gorge Old-style quality of The New Inn

Mum’s Kitchen...

with Diana Holman

Raspberry, Ricotta and Hazelnut Cake

This unusual cake might also work well with blackberries as these come into their season

Ingredients 100g blanched hazelnuts 200g caster sugar 175g plain flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 3 eggs 250g pot of Ricotta 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon 150g raspberries

Method: Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan. Spread the hazelnuts out on a baking tray and roast for around 8 minutes or until they are golden. Set them aside to cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 170C/160C fan. Put the cooled hazelnuts into the food processor with 1 tablespoon of sugar taken from the measured 200g and whizz until the nuts are finely ground. In a bowl, stir them into the sugar, flour and baking powder. In a large bowl whisk together the eggs, ricotta, vanilla and lemon zest until it is soft and fluffy. Add to the dry ingredients and gently fold

Vittles (food & drink)

Lizzie Crow – AKA Lizzie Baking Bird – is a self taught baker, who has a stall outside her home in Upwey each Saturday. See her scrumptious eats at lizziebakingbird.co.uk or find lizzibakingbird on Instagram.

Fanfare of trumpets for my crumpets

Introducing the gorgeousness of the homemade crumpets, which are known as trumpets in my house – a hangover from when I was small. Crumpets are yeasted and deliciously straightforward to make. The surface is full of holes that allow butter to stream through from top to bottom after toasting. Just add a cuppa and possibly cheese for lunch or jam for supper.

Makes 8 150ml milk 1 tsp sugar 1 tbsp olive oil 7g dried yeast 1/2tsp bicarbonate of soda 225g strong white flour 1 tsp salt Oil for greasing crumpet rings and frying 4 Crumpet rings (8cm)

First heat the milk until just lukewarm and add 150ml of lukewarm water. Pop in sugar and oil. Whisk dried yeast into the mixture. Leave to one side until frothy (about 15 minutes –it may take longer if the weather is cooler). Sift flour and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the yeast mixture. Beat for 1-2 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Cover the bowl with oiled cling film and leave the dough, out of drafts, until bubbly (about one to one-and-a-half hours). Dissolve the bicarbonate of soda with 60ml water and stir this into the batter. The bowl needs to be covered and left for about 30 minutes – it will be bubbly once more. Put the batter into a jug for pouring into the rings or you can use a large spoon. Take out a frying pan (or griddle) and put on a high heat. Once the pan is warmed through turn down to medium (Warning: you do not want the pan too hot or you will burn the base of the crumpets). Grease the rings with oil and put in the pan and leave to heat through. When hot pour a small amount of batter in each hoop (about 1 cm deep) it should begin to sizzle. Cook for about four or five minutes until the surface is set and studded with bubbles. Turn each of the crumpets from their tins (run a knife around if they stick). Flip and cook on the other side until light brown. Transfer to a rack to cool. Repeat until the batter is used up. These freeze really well for up to three months.

EASY TO MAKE: These crumpets are a real treat with a cup of tea

n Lizzie can be found in The Old Ship Inn, Upwey on Saturdays with her bakes. Check her out on Instagram lizzibakingbird to see her making crumpets

together until combined. Grease a 20cm round cake tin and line with baking parchment. Spoon half the cake mixture into the tin and sprinkle it with 75g raspberries. Spoon over the remaining cake mixture and top with the other 75g raspberries. Bake for around 50 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. If you wish to make a drizzle topping (and save wasting the fruit of the lemon!), mix the squeezed juice of the lemon with 80g caster sugar and drizzle it over the hot cake.

Al Molo comes to town and it’s so

By Miranda Robertson

miranda@westdorsetmag.co.uk and Andrew Diprose

of dorsetbiznews.co.uk editor@dorsetbiznews.co.uk Weymouth restaurateurs who have built up a big following in the resort have opened a second restaurant in Dorchester’s historic Judge Jeffreys, bringing their flavoursome Italianinspired menu to the county town. Tim Newton and Guiseppe Vannucci, 50, have run Al Molo on the seafront for seven years, winning Restaurant of the Year in the South West Tourism Excellence Awards 2020/21. They were looking for a great venue in Dorchester when Judge Jeffreys became available. Little did they know how much would have to be done to make the building ready to open, however. Delay after delay has hit the team, with all the electrics having to be redone, plumbing nightmares and historic features having to be restored after a nasty brush with gloss paint from a previous tenant. All while Guiseppe was undergoing treatment for cancer. Finally, they have been able to open Al Molo Dorchester – Ristorante Di Pesce – a fish restaurant with an Italian twist. The restaurateurs have spent seven months refurbishing the listed 17th century building. They have worked sympathetically to restore the original features, previously hidden by years of paint and neglect, and invested heavily in reestablishing the distinctive architecture of the building. Tim said: “It is humbling to work with a building with such a rich heritage and importance in the town. “However, with the amount of work that needed to be done, and Giuseppe’s treatment for cancer, we had to put back the opening date. “With Giuseppe on the mend, we were able to take the time to respect the integrity of this historic building. “Stripping back the years of neglect has taken months. “But it’s been worth the hard work to restore stunning features, sympathetically design the interiors and refurbish outdated infrastructure to reveal a new, functional and rather beautiful setting to enjoy good food. “The fireplace was coated in layers of thick paint with areas of damaged stone and years of grime. “It is gratifying to see it restored to its original glory and it looks stunning.” The restaurant’s decor now has a contemporary edge, complementing the original features, coupled with a new, modern commercial kitchen. Meanwhile Giuseppe, who is Head Chef, has created a new menu with a strong focus on the bounty from local seas

MAGICAL MENU: Guiseppe Vannucci and Tom Newton have been refurbishing the former Judge Jeffreys restaurant in Dorchester

worth waiting for

combined with traditional Italian cuisine. He said: “The fish from our local waters is second to none and I have been developing these menus over a number of years in readiness for the perfect setting to serve them. “They combine the fresh taste of our seas with traditional Italian cuisine. “It is a pleasure to bring these new dishes, together with my new vegetarian and meat options, to the table in a setting which complements the quality of the produce.” Dorchester Mayor Janet Hewitt said: “This new restaurant is a most welcome addition to the High West Street, not only because it has saved a historic asset in our town from further neglect and is creating more employment opportunities, but also for bringing a quality dining experience celebrating local produce to our doorstep.” Sandra Jordan, of Jordan Jewellers Dorchester, added: “The menu is an absolute delight. “My favourite was the seared scallops and the sea bass fillets, sautéed garlic spinach and raspberry radish. “Perfectly balanced, and an explosion of flavour.” For those wishing to work in the restaurant industry, Al Molo has hospitality roles available. It’s urging those who are returning to the workplace, have just left school or who are looking for a move to showcase their skills, to get in touch. Tim said: “As we ramp up business we will be creating further employment opportunities and urge those looking for work in this fast paced and rewarding industry to get in touch now. “We offer flexible hours, a friendly environment and fantastic training for those looking to work in our prestigious restaurants.” n Details and bookings at almolodorchester.co.uk

The West Dorset Magazine, August 12, 2022 39 Vittles (food & drink) Discover the revolution of today’s Greek wines

Jack Priestley, manager at wine merchants Morrish and Banham’s Dorchester shop talks ancient grapes and a revival of Greek Wines

When you think of exciting, high quality, tiptop wine, which countries come to mind? Portugal? South Africa? Australia? Yes, for me all three of these countries are producing incredibly exciting wines at the moment, but I have a somewhat surprising addition to this list –maybe it’s time we take another look at the wines of Greece. The country is blessed with a wealth of native grape varieties and has a rich history of winemaking. Wine has been produced here for thousands of years. However, it’s long been associated with that rather acquired taste of Retsina wine (made with the addition of pine resin), and relatively cheap and cheerful wines also. All that is changing, a recent trip to visit a producer on the Greek island of Crete proved to me so. I discovered a flourishing wine scene and internationally we are just beginning to enjoy a revival of its unique and characterful wines. Long forgotten varieties have been saved from the brink of extinction and revived by the work of a few dedicated producers. It’s in these treasures that a revolution is taking place. Greece takes us outside of our comfort zone in terms of the classic wine styles and varieties that we’re familiar with. But it’s the element of discovery that makes wine so engaging and enjoyable! You’ll not find Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot here, instead you’ll likely come across Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Liatiko and Vidiano. Maybe not the easiest wines to pronounce but it’s in these native wines of Greece that you’ll discover many unique and exciting bottles.

Top recommendations:

n Lyrarakis, Assyrtiko, Greece, 2020 (£12.99) Greece’s signature white grape variety. Dry with citrus-tinged flavours and a long mineral finish. An ideal partner for seafood.

n Lyrarakis, Liatiko, Greece, 2021 (£13.99) Light-bodied, brimming with red currant, cherry and plum and fragrant exotic spice. Chill it down and it’s a perfect juicy red to enjoy with a BBQ or nibbles in the evening sun.