THE BULLETIN • Tuesday, October 19, 2010 F5
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Next week: The boneyard Bend home uses bones in unique garden display.
PEST PROBLEMS
COVER STORY
Combinations Continued from F1 Sally Ferguson, director of the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center/North America, e-mailed me a seasonal portfolio of information that included the results of a Cornell University research project. Cornell professor William Miller, director of the university’s Flower Bulb Research Program, worked with a team researching successful bulb and perennial combinations. The project was tested over four seasons and took place at the university’s Ithaca, N.Y., trial gardens, which are in USDA Zone 5. The combination trials were designed to meet four goals: 1. Look at how early bulbs help extend the bloom season in the garden. 2. Explore how perennials might best be used to mask the dying foliage of post-bloom bulbs. 3. Consider leaf texture as a design element. 4. Examine the various roles color plays in creating successful combinations. The experiment list includes 44 pairings. I chose to include here the bulbs and the perennials we would be most familiar with, but may not have considered combining. Research results that worked well included: • Anemone blanda (“White Splendor”) with Rheum palmatum (rhubarb “Atrosanguineum”). Rhubarb would be a good companion to many bulbs because of the large leaves, plus the texture and the stalk color of the emerging plant. • Chionodoxa (“Glory-of-theSnow”) with Siberian bugloss. • Penstemon (“Husker Red”) was recommended as a pleasing combo with hyacinths. The dark purple leaves of the penstemon emerge as the hyacinth is blooming and are slow enough to allow the hyacinths to finish their cycle before they take over to conceal the dying foliage. • Hyacinths were also combined with Lychnis chaledonica (“Maltese Cross”). • Scilla with geranium sanguineum. The geranium would be the perennial variety, not the coastal or Martha Washington types that appear in garden centers in late March. • Narcissus (“Bellsong”) with hosta (“Sum and Substance”). • Narcissus (“February Gold”) with potentilla (“Miss Wilmot”). • Narcissus (“Fortissimo”) with Papaver orientalis (red poppy “Turkenlouis”). The contrast of the leaf texture between the daffodil and the poppy makes for an interesting mix. • Narcissus (“Gigantic Star”) with Achillea millifolium (yarrow “Summer Pastels”). • Narcissus (“Ice Follies”) with Pulsatillia valgaris (pasque flower “Papageno”). This combination shows contrasting foliage texture, and in our climate, we hope, it would bloom simultaneously for the full benefit of the combination. The fuzzy and airy seed heads of the pasque flower will camouflage the dying daffodil flowers. • Narcissus (“Mt. Hood”)
Better together A team at Cornell University has been researching combinations of bulbs and perennials. The project aimed to discover pairings that allowed for early-blooming bulbs and later-blooming perennials to provide cover for one another, as well as combinations with colors and texture that worked well together. Below are three pairings that worked well.
When bugs invade with your houseplants By Nancy O’Donnell Albany Times Union
Photos provided by William Miller, Cornell University
Narcissus (“Salome”) with Phlox paniculata (summer phlox “Bill Baker”).
When I decided to start bringing my houseplants inside the other day, I saw little, fuzzy, white mealybugs staring back at me. So, if you have houseplants ready to make the trip back indoors, beware! Heat and high humidity are favorites of mealybugs, and the weather of August and early September is perfect in their book. Mealies are scalelike insects roughly 1⁄8-inch to 1⁄4-inch in length. They prefer shelter from the elements, so look for them on the undersides of leaves, along the stems and in the nooks where the leaf attaches to the stem. Their bodies are actually a tannish-brown, but what we see is the white, “mealy” wax covering that gives them the look of small blotches of cotton stuck to the plant. The wax protects their tiny bodies from harsh conditions, such as drought or direct sun.
Narcissus (“Gigantic Star”) with Achillea millifolium (yarrow “Summer Pastels”).
Plague of mealies
Anemone blanda (“White Splendor”) with Rheum palmatum (rhubarb “Atrosanguineum”).
with nepeta (catmint “Six Hills Giant”). • Narcissus (“Salome”) with Phlox paniculata (summer phlox “Bill Baker”). This combination would work with many daffodils and probably with tulips. For those able to grow tulips from bulb to bloom without the deer snipping them, the research team offers some interesting combos. Since there is a broader color selection available with tulip varieties than daffodils, more care should be given to the paring of the colors. The goal would be to either choose a bulb and a perennial that would echo each other’s color, or go for a really dramatic effect. Perennial geraniums would be useful if you planned to echo colors, as many varieties have interesting leaf and bloom veining color. A dramatic combo of leaf color and texture would be a purple late-blooming tulip with Stachys byzantinal (“Lamb’s Ear”). If you are interested in viewing the entire research collection, visit www.hort.cornell.edu/ combos.
Paperwhites While perusing the Cornell horticultural site, another re-
search project caught my eye: “Pickled Paperwhites.” Paperwhites are the popular bulb to force for the holiday season. Paperwhites are usually grown in water and pebbles, and are notorious for growing tall and leggy, flopping over just when they are at their peak of bloom. Through an inquiry from a journalist — does alcohol stunt the growth of paperwhites? — a new research project was born. Miller (the bulb researcher) conducted a study and concluded that growing paperwhites in a 4 to 5 percent solution of alcohol is an excellent growth regulation technique. When grown in 5 percent alcohol, plants are about half the height of plants grown in straight water. Given that most liquors are 40 percent alcohol, this is equal to one part booze to seven parts of water. Gin, vodka, whiskey, rum, tequila and schnapps are all equally effective as long as they are given at the same alcohol concentration (realizing that liquors can come in different strengths). Beer and wine are not recommended as they kill the bulbs. I couldn’t help but wonder if this question was the result of a cocktail party and some-
one dumping their drink in the vase of growing paperwhites. However it came to light doesn’t matter; we all benefit from the information. While you are bulb shopping, think about potting some for indoor bloom. Use a potting mix or a bulb planting mix rather than the native soil. Paperwhites are the most popular bulbs to force at the holidays, and they are often forced in water as opposed to soil. There are three narcissus suggested for successful forcing: “Abba,” “Bridal Crown” and “Earlicheer.” Spacing can be closer than in the ground; bulbs can almost touch. Set the container on an outdoor porch or patio. Check regularly for dryness by sticking your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If it comes out dry, water. Bring inside after buds form. Starting in October should give you blooms by the holiday season — at least that is what it says in the fine print. This is on my list to try. One advantage over the paperwhites is that the narcissus bulbs can eventually, when the weather allows, be planted to the garden. Liz Douville can be reached at douville@bendbroadband.com.
Although their description sounds all soft and fuzzy, their behavior is anything but. A mealybug is a sucking insect, like the infamous spider mite and aphid we’ve chatted about before. It inserts its piercing mouthpart called a stylet into the vascular system of the plant like a needle, removing the sugary food produced during photosynthesis. The result is twofold: The infested stem or leaf is weakened, turning yellow and distorted from lack of nutrients, eventually dying if the infestation isn’t controlled. But like any living organism, what goes in must eventually come out. For the mealybug, that means an excretion of a sticky, sweetish substance dubbed “honeydew,” which becomes the perfect home for a black mold called sooty mold. Sadly, once you find one mealy, chances are there will be more. Eggs are laid in clusters either protected in a cocoon or attached to mom in a protective sac stuck to her underside. Hatching occurs one to two weeks after they’re laid. The warmer and more humid the air, the shorter the gestation period and the greater the overall infestation, such as
these past few months. Once hatched, these “crawlers,” as they are referred to, crawl their way to a tasty spot and begin to feed. The mealybug, both male and female, will venture through five molts, maturing more each time; the final molt for the male results in a gnatlike flying insect whose sole purpose now is to mate. The mealybug will attack crop plants, houseplants and ornamentals. Its range is wide. The best defense includes — for new plant purchases — just keeping them isolated for a couple weeks to limit exposure if they are carrying a pest.
Anti-bug tactics If your plant appears to have just a few, dip a Q-tip in alcohol and dab it on each mealy you see. The white covering will be destroyed, and the alcohol will dissolve the body underneath. Check every other day for more, and dab them as you see them. Heavy infestations will require a more drastic approach. An overly infested plant should just be discarded and neighboring plants kept under a watchful eye. Pesticide-wise, the systemic Orthene is highly effective. Once sprayed on the plant, it is taken internally and translocated. When the mealybug feeds wherever it’s located on the plant, it ingests the pesticide and dies. The major benefit to a systemic pesticide over a contact pesticide is when the mealybug feeds, wherever it’s hiding on the plant, it ingests the pesticide and dies; no direct contact is required. Secondly, one application is sufficient nine times out of 10. If you prefer a “greener” solution, insecticidal soap and horticultural oils can be used, but multiple applications will be required, as these are contact controls. Another option is placing your plants in the garage and setting off an insecticidal fogger. Many have pyrethrums as the active ingredient. The fog is able to reach the nooks and suffocate the mealy. Change the soil completely, and thoroughly wash the container, saucer and up under the rim using one part bleach to nine parts water to destroy any eggs.
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Hood River Fruit Loop’s
HEIRLOOM APPLE CELEBRATION October 23rd & 24th Pumpkin Funland * Heirloom Apple Tasting * Pies * Edelweiss Day Cider Parties * Pumpkin Milkshakes * Pumpkin Graveyard * Animals Wine Tasting * Hay Rides * BBQ * Trunk Show * Corn Maze & more!
FREE ADMISSION & PARKING
Think (and plant) outside the mailbox By Kathy Van Mullekom Daily Press (Newport News, Va.)
When you want to improve your home’s curb appeal, think outside the mailbox. There’s nothing attractive about a rusted, paint-peeling mailbox. There is something attractive, however, about a mailbox that’s been decorated for the different seasons. Creative Mailbox Planters made in Missouri help you create mailbox vignettes that will entertain trick-or-treaters and celebrate other special occasions. The planter simply slips over a standard black galvanized steel rural mailbox, which costs about $15 at stores such as Lowe’s, Home Depot, Ace and True Value hardware, and Walmart. The planters are crafted in a high-density polyethylene with
fade-resistant protection and drainage holes for plants. Faux and dried plant material can also be used in the planter; fill the planter with weatherproof plastic foam and insert the stems. Each planter includes a helpful sheet of tips on how to plant and maintain your planter. Suggestions for flowering combinations are also provided. “We do recommend the homeowner give their planter a final finish with a paint of their choosing for each cleaning at the end of the season,” says Teresa Monares, a company spokesperson. “A simple cleaning with a warm solution of mild soap will do the job.” The planters, priced at $79.95 with free shipping, are available at www.creativemailboxplanters .com.
Complete event information & directions to ALL activities and attractions can be found at www.hoodriverfruitloop.com. OTHER ACTIVITIES INCLUDE:
Draper Girls Country Farm Bring the family for a fun illed day of u-pick apples and pears, or visit our pumpkin covered straw maze. Join us for fresh-pressed non-pasteurized apple cider made here on our farm, the only licensed non-pasteurized cider mill on the Fruit Loop. Featuring a variety of ciders, donuts, and our cinnamon and sugar-dried apples. #15 on Map www.drapergirlscountryfarm.com 541-352-6625
Rasmussen Farms Many, many kinds heirloom and popular apple varieties. Pears, fall vegs.- lots of fall deco. 14 Acres u-pick pumpkins! Free admission: Pumpkin Funland, TALL Corn Maze, family activities.
#8 on Map
A tradition since 1963. www.RasmussenFarms.com
541-386-4622
PACKER ORCHARDS & COOKIE STOP BAKERY The Bakery is overlowing with apple goodies! Cider! Pies! Cinnamon Rolls! Milkshakes & Sundaes! Many Varieties of Heirloom Apples and Pears are here. Come in and Enjoy the Views and Picnic Area! #14 on Map www.packerorchardsandbakery.com 541-354-1140
Apple Valley’s Heirloom Apple Butter Fest
Creative Mailbox Planters via (Newport News) Daily Press
Liven up a mailbox with 4-inch potted mums that you can later plant in your garden. Add some faux leaves, berries and gourds.
Come stir the pot! Apple butter made in huge copper kettles over a ire pit. Fried biscuits served with hot apple butter. Lots of pies, jams, syrups, and desserts. Cherry wood smoked BBQ ribs, pulled pork and chicken sandwiches served with cider baked beans and pear coleslaw. 541-386-1971 2363 Tucker Rd. Hood River, OR #23 on Map
www.AppleValleyStore.com