THROUGH DESIGN ANTHROPOLOGY
CULTURAL CONTEXT MATERIAL CULTURE SYMBOLISM EVOLUTION & ADAPTATION
USER EXPERIENCE GLOBAL IMPACT & APPROPRIATION
SUSTAINABILITY & UPCYCLING CULTURAL PRESERVATION
STUDYING
THE KIMONO
DESK RESEARCH CHATGPT
DESK RESEARCH CHATGPT
PROCESS FRAMEWORK
MIDJOURNEY
MIDJOURNEY
CHATGPT PROMPT AND RESPONSES
Act in the role of a Japanese anthropological researcher, with more than 15 years of professional fieldwork experience, with an extensive expertise in ancient Japanese culture and history You have authored multiple publications on the history of Japanese kimonos Acknowledge this instructions by saying Okay
Tell me about the history, material, construction, design and function of the kimono fabric.
History: The word "kimono" translates to "thing to wear" in Japanese, reflecting its status as the traditional garment of the country Initially, kimono-style clothing was influenced by Chinese fashion, but it evolved into a distinct Japanese attire during the Heian period (794-1185) Over the centuries, the kimono underwent various changes in design, sleeve length, and fabric to suit different social classes, occasions, and trends. Today, the kimono remains an iconic symbol of Japanese culture and fashion
Design: Kimono designs are known for their intricate patterns, exquisite motifs, and vibrant colors The designs are inspired by nature, seasons, cultural symbols, historical events, and artistic expressions. Some popular kimono design techniques include yuzen dyeing, shibori (tie-dye), and embroidery
Geometry – Balance, equality and unit Floral – Beauty, nature and changing seasons
Animal - Symbolic meanings associated with their characteristics and cultural significance
Function: The kimono serves various functions based on the occasion and formality
Casual Wear: Informal kimono (yukata) are worn during summer festivals, onsen visits, or casual gatherings
Formal Occasions: Formal kimono are worn for ceremonies, weddings, tea ceremonies, and other significant events
Seasonal Changes: Different kimono designs and colors are chosen to reflect the changing seasons and nature's beauty.
Cultural Heritage: The kimono symbolizes Japanese cultural heritage and is a key element in preserving traditional arts and craftsmanship
Dyeing Techniques
Yuzen dyeing is a complex dyeing technique that allows for intricate and detailed designs Artisans hand-paint or stencil dyes onto the fabric, creating vibrant and elaborate patterns.
Shibori is a tie-dyeing technique that produces unique patterns by binding, folding, or twisting the fabric before dyeing. It results in mesmerizing and intricate designs.
Katazome involves applying a resist paste through stencils onto the fabric before dyeing The paste prevents dye from penetrating certain areas, creating intricate patterns
Primary Materials:
Material: Traditionally, kimono fabrics are made from silk, reflecting Japan's history as a major silkproducing nation. Silk kimono is luxurious, smooth, and lustrous Other materials like cotton, wool, and synthetic fabrics are also used to create kimono, providing variations for different occasions and climates
Construction: The construction of a kimono involves rectangular-shaped fabric pieces, which are skillfully cut and sewn together The garment consists of two main body panels, front and back, with large and flowing sleeves. It is a T-shaped garment, with the length and width adjusted to the wearer's size
Kimonos are meant to have a loose and relaxed fit, and they are wrapped around the body and secured with a wide sash called an obi.
Weaving and Texture:
Rinzu is a weaving technique that creates raised patterns on the fabric's surface. The design is achieved by weaving the pattern in a slightly different texture, resulting in an elegant and tactile effect.
Chirimen is a crepe-like texture obtained by twisting the threads during the weaving process It adds a distinctive crinkled appearance to the fabric and enhances its visual depth
Tsumugi silk is created from wild silk fibers, resulting in a textured and uneven surface. Tsumugi kimonos have a natural and rustic charm, often featuring earthy tones
Layered Construction: The layered design of the kimono allows wearers to adapt to changing weather conditions by adding or removing undergarments, making it a practical choice for various seasons.
Versatile Styling: The simplicity of the T-shaped silhouette enables diverse styling options, allowing wearers to express their individuality and creativity through different obi tying techniques and accessories.
Emotional and Ritual Contexts: Wearing a kimono often involves emotional and ritualistic contexts, such as weddings, tea ceremonies, and festivals. This behavior fosters a sense of community and belonging
Wen,H (2023 ChatGPT personal communication
Material analysis of the kimono
silk cotton wool polyester rayon
Interactive analysis of the kimono
rinzu chirimen tsumugi
Hadajuban Nagajuban Kimono Obi
taiko knot bunko knot tachiya knot
CHATGPT PROMPT AND RESPONSES
Prompt: Tell me about the types of kimono that are famous in each era
A highly formal and elaborate kimono worn by court ladies Junihitoe consisted of twelve or more layers of kimono, each featuring different colors and patterns, symbolizing the changing seasons.
Originally a hunting costume, kariginu became a casual kimono for aristocrats and samurai It featured patterns of leaves, flowers, or geometric shapes.
A predecessor of the modern kimono, the kosode featured more subdued colors and patterns, and it became widely popular among the samurai class and common people
A formal kimono for married women, featuring elegant patterns at the hem and sleeves It was typically worn during weddings and other important ceremonies
A long-sleeved kimono mainly worn by unmarried young women for special occasions Furisode featured vibrant colors and intricate patterns, often signifying the wearer's coming of age
A kimono made from tsumugi silk, characterized by a rough and uneven texture Tsumugi kimonos gained popularity for their durability and natural appearance
A black kimono worn for mourning, often with subtle patterns Mofuku became standardized during the Meiji period, following the Western practice of mourning attire.
A lightweight and casual kimono typically worn in the summer, often featuring bold and vibrant patterns Yukata is commonly seen during festivals and fireworks displays
An elegant and semi-formal kimono suitable for events like tea ceremonies and parties Homongi features flowing patterns that extend over the seams of the garment.
A single-colored kimono, usually in subdued shades, worn by both men and women during formal events Iromuji is commonly used as a guest's kimono at weddings.
A casual kimono with small, repeated patterns all over the fabric Komon can be worn for various occasions, and it's popular for its versatility
TIMELINE HEIAN PERIOD (794-1185) KAMAKURA PERIOD (1185-1333) MUROMACHI PERIOD (1336-1573) EDO PERIOD (1603-1868) MEIJI & TAISHO PERIOD (1868-1926) HEISEI & REIWA PERIOD (1989-Present) Junihitoe SHOWA PERIOD (1926-1989) Kariginu Kosode Furisode Tomesode Mofuku Tsumugi Yukata Homongi Komon Iromuji
Wen,H (2023 ChatGPT personal communication
•Cultural Significance: The kimono holds deep cultural and historical importance in Japanese society, symbolizing tradition, identity, and ceremonies.
•Changing Fashion Trends: Modern fashion preferences and global influences may impact the demand and popularity of traditional kimono styles.
•Cultural Exchange: Growing interest in Japanese culture worldwide could lead to increased appreciation and demand for kimono as a cultural artifact
•Digital Printing and Design Techniques: Technological advancements allow for innovative approaches to kimono design, such as digital printing techniques, enabling more intricate and unique patterns.
•E-commerce and Online Marketplaces: The availability of kimono through online platforms could widen the market and accessibility of these traditional garments globally.
ChatGPT Prompt: From when did upcycling and repurposing of the kimono started?
LATE 20TH CENTURY 21ST CENTURY
Grew in interest in preserving traditional Japanese textiles, including kimono fabric. Practice of upcycling and repurposing kimono fabric has gained even more popularity, fueled by a renewed interest in sustainable and eco-friendly fashion.
•Cost and Accessibility: Traditional kimono production involves skilled craftsmanship and highquality materials, making authentic pieces relatively expensive. This may influence the affordability and accessibility of kimono.
•Tourism: The demand for kimono rentals and sales may be influenced by the influx of tourists seeking cultural experiences in Japan.
Important note: the concept of using existing textiles to create new items is deeply embedded in traditional Japanese culture, where the value of preserving resources has been a guiding principle for centuries.
Were
the kimono fabric used for other purposes during the edo period?
Kimonos were repurposed as a practical response to economic and social conditions of the time. While the term "upcycling" may not have been used, the concept of reusing textiles and materials was deeply ingrained in daily life
•Sustainable Fashion Movement: The upcycling and repurposing of kimono fabrics align with sustainable fashion practices, appealing to eco-conscious consumers.
•Material Sourcing: The environmental impact of sourcing silk and other materials for kimono production may influence choices and demand for sustainable alternatives.
•Government Support: Japanese government initiatives to promote traditional arts and crafts, including kimono, may influence the preservation and appreciation of these cultural artifacts.
•Trade Policies: Import and export regulations could affect the availability of kimono fabrics and finished products in international markets.
How are kimono fabrics repurposed in the 21st century? What kind of fashion items or accessories are made
In the 21st century, kimono fabrics continue to be repurposed in creative and innovative ways, blending traditional aesthetics with modern fashion and lifestyle trends. The practice of repurposing kimono fabrics has gained popularity as a sustainable and culturally rich approach to fashion and design
•Intellectual Property: Protection of traditional kimono designs and motifs as intellectual property may be relevant, considering cultural appropriation concerns.
•Authenticity and Labeling: Legal standards and regulations may be in place to ensure the authenticity of kimono products and accurate labeling.
•Cultural Appropriation: The ethical considerations of cultural appropriation may arise when kimono designs are used or adapted outside of their cultural context.
•Labor Practices: Ethical concerns regarding the treatment and wages of artisans involved in kimono production could impact consumer perceptions and demand.
E ECONOMICAL SOCIAL TECHNOLOGY ENVIRONMENTAL POLITICAL LEGAL ETHICAL
S T E E P L
sakiori furoshiki boro accessories
Wen,H (2023 ChatGPT personal communication
Prompt: Kimono footwear --no man
Prompt: Kimono footwear –v 5 --no man
Wen,H (2023) Midjourney Images
MIDJOURNEY EXPLORATION
Prompt: Illustration of footwear design with the use of kimono fabric, minimalist pen drawings --s 750 --c 8 --v 5 --no man
Wen,H (2023) Midjourney Images
MIDJOURNEY EXPLORATION
Prompt: Futuristic kimono footwear --v 5 --no man
Resembles the intricate patterns and exquisite motifs of the kimono fabric, design wraps around like the layers of the kimono
Wrapped in kimono fabric
Resembles the intricate patterns, exquisite motifs, and vibrant colors of the kimono fabric
Resemblance to how an actual kimono is worn but inverted, with an obi holding the kimono in place, fabric layered like the kimono
Resembles the obi sash
Resembles the kanzashi, a decorative floral hair ornament that is worn with the kimono
Resembles the intricate patterns and exquisite motifs of the kimono fabric
Resembles the geta, a Japanese traditional footwear that is worn together with the kimono
Resembles how the obi sash wraps around the kimono
MIDJOURNEY ANALYSIS Wen,H (2023) Midjourney Images
Similar to the obi knots design
Japan has a wide range of traditional clothing of which the kimono is the most wellknown The kimono is also labelled as the national costume of Japan and comes in many different types and accessories
Kimono literally means a “thing to wear” in Japanese. Today, a kimono is worn only so often, mainly during special and formal occasions such as weddings, tea ceremonies, formal traditional events and funerals There are many different types and styles of kimonos and appropriate style and color of kimono are chosen depending on the occasion and the person’s age and marital status.
Traditional Kimono Patterns
Traditionally, both the fabric and decoration of a kimono would indicate social status, since only the rich could afford luxurious silk while normal people would wear cotton These days, the patterns become a way to express personal style or identity.
Japanese patterns come in many forms and all have a hidden meaning Very much found on the kimono and other Japanese clothing, they are called wagara Most of the traditional Japanese patterns dates back to the 8th century and are inspired by nature, of which the symbolism is very strong in Japanese culture.
DESK RESEARCH
DESK RESEARCH
Wagara (Traditional Japanese patterns)
Japanese patterns come in many forms and all have a hidden meaning Very much found on the kimono and other Japanese clothing, they are called wagara. Most of the traditional Japanese patterns dates back to the 8th century and are inspired by nature, of which the symbolism is very strong in Japanese culture
Japanese Geometric Patterns
Geometric Japanese patterns are great classics found on many Japanese fabrics They can be self-sufficient or serve as a background for a more elaborate pattern Timeless, some geometric patterns are extremely ancient and yet still used today to adorn modern Japanese kimonos.
Seigaiha – This ancestral pattern is very common on Japanese fabrics and is composed of overlapping concentric circles Its name signifies "waves of the blue sea" The seigaiha pattern symbolizes a peaceful sea, quiet strength and good fortune. This pattern is usually blue in color, but nowadays it can be found in any color.
Japanese Flower Patterns
Japanese Patterns that feature animals
Shippo – This Japanese pattern consists of superimposed circles forming petals or stars. For Japanese, the Shippo pattern represents the seven treasures of Buddhism (gold, silver, pearl, coral, crystal, agate and lapis lazuli), although no repetition of seven patterns is found on this ornament. The Shippo pattern used to be highly popular in the Edo period, especially on women's kimonos. It is said to be a symbol of harmony and good relationships
In Japan, each flower has its own meaning according to its appearance and characteristics Thus, each flower is associated to a specific Japanese symbol, a virtue, or an emotion Japanese also have a word to name this: Hanakotoba which means "language of flowers".
Sakura – Also known as the cherry blossom, is THE emblematic flower of Japan The cherry blossom marks the beginning of spring and occupies an important place in Japanese culture. Represented on many fabrics, the sakura flower symbolizes softness, kindness and acceptance of the transience of beauty
Kiku – Also known as the chrysanthemum, has become the emblem of the imperial family This flower is found on the imperial seal, passports and 50 yen coins. The chrysanthemum is a symbol of longevity and rejuvenation. Although this flower is associated with fall, it is possible to wear a kimono with this pattern in all seasons
In Japan there are many fascinating animals that occupy an important place in myths and legends. Some animals have a sacred and symbolic character which explains their presence on traditional Japanese patterns
Tsuru – The Japanese crane is frequently depicted on Japanese fabrics and papers, either realistically or as origami This graceful bird symbolizes longevity and good fortune. If the pattern features a crane couple, then it symbolizes a strong and happy marriage Cranes are very much appreciated in Japan
Koi – The Koi carp is a fish that migrates up streams and rivers in order to reach its goal, symbolizing courage, perseverance, virility and triumph The word koi in Japanese means "carp" but also "love" or "falling in love".
Japanese Patterns inspired by nature
Just like plants and animals, the elements of nature also have an important place in Japanese folklore Either with special significance or simply because they are appreciated for their beauty
Yama – Mountains, are sacred places in Japan
Located between heaven and earth, they are said to be the home of kami, deities or spirits venerated in Shinto religion. If the pattern represents birds flying over mountains, then it symbolizes the ability to overcome life's challenges
DESK RESEARCH
Upcycling and repurposing kimono fabrics
Today, brides-to-be often opt to transform their furisode kimonos into avant-garde gowns that combine a traditional aesthetic with a contemporary silhouette. Watabe Wedding, a Kyoto-based brand, has helped pioneer and popularize this trend with their line of for-rent kimono wedding dresses.
Named Shoen, this colorful collection features strapless dresses made out of authentic and antique furisode kimonos. The Shoen line features 5 distinctive dresses:
The Tsurumomiji (“crane maple”), The Fujiageha (“wisteria and swallowtail butterfly”), The Ranbu (“orchid dance”), The Kanazuru (“gold crane”), and The Botangiku (“peony and chrysanthemum”)
In other cases, brides-to-be modify their own furisode into a stunning strapless dress. The sleeves are first folded down and then tied into a decorative bow in the back The surface decor which include flowers, birds, and scallop patterns adds a colorful, eye-catching riff on the Western-style gown. Most importantly, it only takes about 10 minutes to change and nothing is permanently altered So unlike many wedding dresses, the brides can really wear it again
Neo Kimono has banded together with Tokyo’s vocational Vantan Design Institute to pave the way for a traditional take on modern pumps with the Obi de Boots iki heel covers.
Designed by stylist Chihiro Hitomi, the covers are made using gorgeous patterns from Nishijin silk fabric, a traditional textile from Kyoto that’s been produced for over 1,000 years.
Obi de Boots iki lend a stylish flair to pumps that also makes them appear slightly taller than ankle-high boots to the casual observer.
A group of designers began the Tokyo Kimono Shoes project, buying those beautiful silk robes that are just collecting dust and they collaborate with artisanal shoemakers to turn them into one-of-a-kind footwear
The team takes special care in selecting each kimono that is used, making sure that the colors and designs are aesthetically appropriate for shoe ware before cutting the fabric up into smaller pieces.
Comparison between ChatGPT, MidJourney, Desk research
ChatGPT narrows down my initial search much more quickly than using Google alone, at the same time shortening the time it takes to get a baseline for where I think the research should go next.
ChatGPT VS Desk Research
Prompt
How are kimono fabrics repurposed in the 21st century? What kind of fashion items or accessories are made
In the 21st century, kimono fabrics continue to be repurposed in creative and innovative ways, blending traditional aesthetics with modern fashion and lifestyle trends. The practice of repurposing kimono fabrics has gained popularity as a sustainable and culturally rich approach to fashion and design. Here are some examples of fashion items and accessories that are made by repurposing kimono fabrics:
1.Bags and Purses: Kimono fabrics are often transformed into unique and stylish bags, clutches, tote bags, and purses. The vibrant patterns and textures of kimono fabric add a distinctive touch to these accessories.
2.Scarves and Shawls: Kimono fabrics are repurposed into scarves, shawls, and wraps, offering a way to incorporate Japanese design elements into everyday outfits.
3.Hair Accessories: Hairpins, hairbands, and scrunchies are made using small swatches of kimono fabric. These accessories add a touch of elegance and color to hairstyles.
4.Jewelry: Kimono fabrics are used to create jewelry items such as earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and brooches. Fabric is often combined with other materials like beads, metal, or resin to produce unique pieces.
5.Face Masks: In recent times, repurposed kimono fabrics have been used to create fashionable and reusable face masks, merging practicality with traditional design.
6.Footwear: Kimono fabrics are integrated into footwear such as sandals, sneakers, and slippers. The fabrics add a distinctive flair to footwear designs.
7.Home Decor: Kimono fabrics are repurposed into home decor items like cushion covers, pillowcases, wall hangings, and table runners, enhancing interior spaces with vibrant colors and patterns.
8.Clothing: Designers repurpose kimono fabrics to create contemporary clothing items like dresses, skirts, blouses, and jackets. The incorporation of kimono elements adds a unique cultural touch to modern fashion.
9.Quilts and Throws: Vintage kimono fabrics are often used to create quilts and throws, transforming them into cozy and functional pieces for the home.
10.Stationery: Kimono fabrics find their way onto stationery items like notebooks, journals, and pen holders, bringing an artistic touch to everyday writing.
11.Gift Items: Repurposed kimono fabric is used to make unique and meaningful gift items such as pouches, keychains, and card holders.
The repurposing of kimono fabrics in the 21st century reflects a fusion of tradition and modernity, showcasing the adaptability of these textiles to contemporary lifestyles and design preferences. This practice not only breathes new life into vintage fabrics but also promotes sustainability, cultural appreciation, and the preservation of traditional craftsmanship.
How are kimono fabrics repurposed in the 21st century? What kind of fashion items or accessories are made
Website #1 – Talks about vintage kimono, types of vintage kimono, differences, origin, how it is made, cost ……
Website #2 – 11 Essential Japanese Kimono Accessories You’ll Need
Website #3 – Traditional Japanese Kimono Fabrics
Website #4 – Kimono: Its place in the modern world
Instead of classic robe, striking kimono textiles can be used for many things, such as cushions, quilts, scarves and accessories…..
Website #5 – Kimono Wikipedia
Website #6 – Re-Fashioning Kimono: How to Make Traditional Clothes for Postmodern Japan
Website #7 – Traditional Japanese Clothing and Accessories
Website #8 – Kimono: From status symbol to high fashion
Website #9 – Kimono types and designs | Kids web Japan
Website #10 – 16 things you didn’t know about the Japanese Kimono
MidJourney
Prompt : Repurposed kimono fabrics into fashion items
Prompt : Repurposed kimono fabrics into accessories
Prompt : Kimono bags and purses
Conclusion