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oothills September-October 2013

The Wine Issue Cave B, Silvara and Jones are top of the class for 2013 NCW Wine Awards

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Editor’s Letter

Raise Your Glass R

esults from Year 3 of the North Central Washington Wine Awards dominate this issue. That’s why we call it The Wine Issue. You’ll find the usual names — Jones of Washington, Chateau Faire le Pont, Milbrandt Vineyards, Vin du Lac, etc. — all over the results pages, taking home a slew of hardware for their entries. It’s always exciting, though, to see which wines will rise to the very top during judging. Pete and Katie Beaumont came out of nowhere in Year 1 when their Beaumont Cellars 2009 Syrah took home top honors. Truthfully, I hadn’t even heard of Beaumont Cellars prior to that year’s judging. I still dream about that ’09 Syrah. Year 2 saw Icicle Ridge Winery win Best of Show for its 2011 The Blondes Gewürztraminer, a well-deserved award if you were lucky enough to ever try that wine. Which brings us to this year. Gary Seidler of Silvara Vineyards wasn’t satisfied with his 2010 Malbec, so he sat down with some winemaking buddies over dinner and some of Gary’s other red wines. Together, they came up with a red blend that wowed judges this year. It’s a great story and a great wine. As I wrote after last year’s judging, don’t be disappointed if your favorite wines didn’t rank as high as you wished. Judges know their stuff, but they don’t know YOUR stuff. In the end, our tastes are our tastes, regardless of what others think. ************* Beyond wine, Gary Jasinek writes about the region’s three serious, but fun, putting courses. Rick Steigmeyer climbed atop his 2001 BMW R1100rt motorcycle and cruised the Cascade Loop, stopping along the way to chat with business owners and take some very nice photos. It’s a great spread. Emily Wooldridge is a new name to Foothills readers. The recent Entiat High School/Wenatchee Valley College graduate just wrapped up her second summer interning at The Wenatchee World. She wrote and participated in a Foothills story about thrift-store shopping. The stylish teenager is now off to Rhode Island to continue her studies at Brown University. We wish her well.

Marco Martinez, editor

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oothills A bi-monthly lifestyle magazine about North Central Washington

Publisher Rufus Woods rwoods@wenatcheeworld.com Managing editor Cal FitzSimmons (509) 665-1176 fitzsimmons@wenatcheeworld.com Editor Marco Martinez (509) 664-7149 martinez@wenatcheeworld.com Advertising sales manager Wendy DalPez (509) 661-5221 dalpez@wenatcheeworld.com Design Jared Johnson Staff writers Mike Irwin, Dee Riggs, Rick Steigmeyer Assistant Anna Lopez Staff photographers Mike Bonnicksen, Don Seabrook Contributing editor Russ Hemphill

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Foothills Magazine is published bi-monthly by World Publishing, 14 N. Mission St., Wenatchee, WA, 98801. Subscriptions: $14.99 annually Send check or money order to: Foothills, Subscriptions 14 N. Mission St., Wenatchee, WA, 98801 or email foothills@wenatcheeworld.com Copyright 2013 with all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without written permission.

On the cover: Winning wines from the 2013 North Central Washington Wine Awards include Cave B Estate Winery (Best White), Silvara Vineyards (Best in Show) and Jones of Washington (Best Rosé), all displayed in the lushness of Ohme Gardens. Photo by Kathryn Stevens

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Contributors

Sharon Altaras is an amateur sociologist, wannabe motorhead and fashionista. She enjoys walking the neighborhoods of Wenatchee. As a journalist, she’s covered courts, businesses and has helped launch an eco-conscious fashion magazine. Mike Bonnicksen has been a Wenatchee World photographer since 1984. When not behind a camera working, Mike can often be found enjoying the region’s beauty and the world in general in the form of hiking, biking, motorcycling and scuba diving. Frank Cone is a freelance photographer based out of Wenatchee. His work mainly focuses on the outdoors but he enjoys new subjects and likes to explore different photographic techniques. Frank is married and has two children, Evan and Erin. Give Mike Irwin a reason to go and he’s gone. The Wenatchee World reporter and blogger loves to wander the area’s towns and back roads in search of the odd and interesting. Longtime newspaperman Gary Jasinek was managing editor of The Wenatchee World for 13 years before leaving the paper to spend way more time enjoying the recreational and cultural delights of this valley. Ron Mason is a retired Eastmont educator who has his own photography business, Photography by Ron Mason. He coached track for 42 years. M.K. Resk cannot sit idle for long. Consequently, she is a Wenatchee-based writer, teacher, performer, volunteer, athlete and traveler. She is also a mother. Writing about unique homes is a joy for Bremerton native Dee Riggs. She likes exploring the thought process that goes into building or remodeling a home. The University of Washington graduate has worked at The Wenatchee World since 1977. Wenatchee World photo editor Don Seabrook graduated from Eastmont High School and earned a communications degree from the University of Washington. Check out his Living Images blog at wenatcheeworld.com. Rick Steigmeyer is an amateur vintner who enjoys writing about wine, food and local entertainment on his Winemaker’s Journal blog at wenatcheeworld. com. He’s been a World reporter since 1989. Kathryn Stevens, owner of Atlas & Elia Photography, merges her years of professional experience in photojournalism with her love for natural-light portraiture to specialize in fine-art wedding and family photography. See her latest thoughts at blog.atlasandelia.com.

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Contents 6 Fast 5 8 Winning Hand 10 Pretty Pictures It’s harvest time!

44 And The Winners Are ... Results from 2013 NCW Wine Awards

David Day’s 1931 Harley is aces

Phelps Basin inspires

12 Beyond Pie 20 Riverside Rebirth

Apples play in a variety of dishes

Couple remodel 5-story granary into a home

32 Thrift Threads Area students take on Thrift Shop Challenge

72 Ancient Tale 76 Road Trip With Rick 84 Different Strokes 89 Fun-dation State’s newest AVA has a story

Cascade Loop is a regional treasure

Area’s putting courses are no gimme

Pics from Community Foundation celebration

42 Texting ... Bliss Littler Wenatchee Wild coach starting from scratch

September / October 2013

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Fast five

1

You got pluot?

Mottled skin on you: Not good. Mottled skin on pluot: Very good. So we’re lucky to have the prized gem of mottle-skinned plum-apricot hybrids — the Dinosaur Egg Pluot — grown commercially right here at Tiny’s Organic, the popular fruit-andveggie farm in East Wenatchee. Sweet and juicy, big as an apple and loaded with antioxidants, The Dino Egg (a variety of the trademarked Dapple Dandy pluot) has flesh that’s colored a pink blush to a peachy red. Best of all, you can grab one of Tiny’s Dino Eggs at the Wenatchee Valley Farmers Market (and 45 other markets served by Tiny’s around the state) well into September. As for your own mottled epidermis? One word: sunblock.

Happy Harvest

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Edition

Spitzenberg apple 6

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Heirlooms loom large

Believe it or not, you can crunch a bite off a Roxbury Russet picked here today that tastes pretty much the same as one grown 400 years ago. The Roxbury is one of more than 150 heirloom apples cultivated by East Wenatchee orchardist Jack Feil, a guy who definitely knows his pomaceous edibles. Problem is, Jack only has one tree of Roxbury fruit, so you’re unlikely to find it at Feil’s Fruit Stand (hugging Highway 97 in Baker Flats). A better bet for an authentic heirloom is Jack’s crop of Spitzenbergs, the apple purported to have crowned Wenatchee as Apple Capital of the World. They were first cultivated back east in the late 1700s, and the Feil family has grown them here for more than 100 years. Good for eating, excellent for baking, the Spitzenberg ripens from mid-September into October. Altogether now: “pie!”


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By mike Irwin

This spud’s for you

Of all the fabulous events at Quincy’s Farmer Consumer Awareness Day — tractor pull, Mexican dancing horses, processing plant tours, best small-town parade in North Central Washington — none are as a-peeling as the fast-paced, suspenseful bloodletting of the annual Potato Peeling Contest. Just under an hour, the skin-a-spud bout (Sept. 14) features youth vs. maturity, speed vs. agility and wild gyrations vs. short, focused swipes. This year, veteran peeler Juan Torres, who skins a spud in 22 seconds, is expected to defend his four-year title using his trademark wrist action and a choppy, staccato style that’s resulted in minor nicks and cuts. A small sacrifice, he’s insisted, for the honor of Top Tater.

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Keep on truckin’

Next time you’re idling at a stoplight behind three big semis chock-full of apples, curb your grumbling and remember those trucks (well, not ONLY those trucks) haul most of our multi-billion-dollar economy. In fact, about 216 trucks a day, five days a week, transport some kind of fruit through the Wenatchee Valley to distant markets. During harvest, hundreds more on short hauls lug fruit from orchards to packing sheds to cold storage facilities as part of 2,200 trucks per day — 700,000 to 800,000 trucks trips per year — that bring stuff to us and take our stuff away. Lotsa jobs, too. Need a visual? Stop by Stemilt Growers in Olds Station at the end of September to see the long line of 18-wheelers waiting to be appled up.

2012 Potato Peeling King Juan Torres

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Fair fare

Jalapeño peppers await judging at the Chelan County Fair

Billion-dollar cherry and apple harvests aside, the most gratifying — and colorful — signs of this area’s ag interest could be the rows of homegrown, prize-winning produce at our annual county fairs. Bountiful, beautiful and, yes, sometimes bizarre, these beribboned backyard treasures fill exhibit halls with the edible outcomes of local gardeners’ know-how and whimsy. Foot-long green beans, polka-dotted radishes, albino tomatoes, thigh-sized yellow squash, collard greens wide as canoe paddles, pumpkins big as washing machines and perfect, near luminous, examples of onions, peppers, carrots, broccoli, cabbages and ... well, you name it. One thing’s for sure: These garden varieties aren’t your usual garden-variety veggies. These are goodies you can sink your teeth into. F September / October 2013

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A winning poker hand gave David Day a shot at buying this 1931 Harley-Davidson VL from his wife’s uncle. Day is seen here on his property on Badger Mountain.

Classic Bike

Comes With a Classic Backstory

Y

ou never know where casual conversation could lead you. Thirty-three years ago, it took David Day down the steps of a basement in Ohio. One hand of poker later, he owned a 1931 Harley-Davidson VL motorcycle. The bike has won numerous awards, and is its own conversation starter whenever Day, who lives off the power grid on 130 acres atop Badger Mountain near Waterville, rides into town. Day, 60, was in Port Clinton, Ohio, on that lucky day visiting his future in-laws

Wheels of wonder

to ask permission to marry his wife, Julia. They visited her Uncle Hank one evening. “We were playing cards, having some beers,” says Day. “He said he had a Harley in his basement, and I’m thinking, ‘Sure you do.’ “We went down there and, sure enough, the old ’31 was sitting in the corner. It had been sitting there quite a while. It was covered with cobwebs. “He said if I won the next game, I might have the opportunity to buy it … And I won the next hand.”

Day was quick to offer the man $1,200 for the old Harley. He has since restored the bike to mint condition, and has turned down a $15,000 offer for it. Uncle Hank was the Harley’s original owner and “bought the bike because his brother had one,” says Day. “He was a hell-raiser and a hell of a poker player. He rode the hell out of the thing,” before storing it in his cellar. At the time he scored the 1931 VL, Day, a general contractor, already owned a 1934 Harley-Davidson VLD. He’d previously had a 1974 Harley Sportster,

Story By sharon Altaras photos By mike bonnicksen


and later acquired a 1947 Harley Knucklehead, a 1961 Harley 3 Wheeler and a 1938 Indian Chief, all of which he’s sold. Of those, the Indian Chief is the sole bike he regrets parting with, as it had some unique features, including a gray and white face on the speedometer. Today, the ’31, with its classic lines and black exterior, is the only motorcycle Day owns. He’s on complete solar and wind power on his Badger Mountain property, and recently built a cabin and dug a well. He hopes to someday have a retreat for those stuck in the hustle and bustle of on-grid living. Day says he’s used to having “lots of irons in the fire” with his restoration projects. During the early ’90s, he traveled to bike shows as a representative for a Canadian motorcycle enthusiasts’ magazine. Of working on bikes and selling them, Day says, “It’s more of a hobby and enjoyment,” than for money. “Going to the bike shows and meeting people meant a lot to me.” He rides his Harley on remote roads near his home, but says, “It’s more enjoyable to ride into Waterville and show it than to take it on a country road myself.” It’s the conversations the bike sparks that Day looks forward to. “The history speaks for itself.” F

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On the Trail

Above, water flows off rocks at a small waterfall. At right, heather in bloom.

Phenome Above, blossoming heather looks like bells. Right, the seed head of the Western Anemone plant. 10

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September / October 2013


Story and photos By Mike Bonnicksen

Above, Western Anemone flower. At left, phlox in bloom at Spider Meadows.

nal Phelps I A marmot suns himself in the upper basin.

’ve done many hikes to Spider Meadows, off the Chiwawa River Road, north of Lake Wenatchee, but I’ve either always stopped at the meadows or continued up to Spider Gap for the view down into Lyman Lakes. For this trip, I decided to continue through the meadows, ending in what’s called Phelps Basin. It’s only a mile or so further, and well worth the trip; you traverse

along a hillside and end up in a small, open basin at about 6,000 feet, flanked by 8,000-foot peaks. The area is pretty small and only really comfortable for about three or four groups to camp in, but it’s a beautiful area that’s definitely worth visiting. This is a popular area for the fall high hunt, so make sure you wear bright clothing if you tromp around the area during the hunt. F


Kitchen Creations

You Know What They Say About an

Apple a Day T

Apple-Pear Salad on Romaine with Candied Pecans by chef Richard Kitos. Recipe, Page 14.

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he Wenatchee Valley’s culinary palate is maturing in the same way its famed apples have expanded well beyond Red Delicious. Our local produce is starring on dinner plates with rich, sometimes unexpected flavor pairings. Apples on pizza, smoked apple-infused meats and exotic apple chutneys are popping up on the region’s increasingly sophisticated menus. Since autumn yields the newest bounty, we asked a few local food experts to share seasonal apple recipes and ideas to try at home. You can find their scrumptious offerings on the next few pages.

Apples are one of fall’s best cooking ingredients.


Story By M.K. Resk photos By Frank Cone

September / October 2013

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RICHARD KITOS

has more than 20 years of executive chef experience. He has worked in places as diverse as a cafeteria in Kansas, a lakeside restaurant in Switzerland and at movie premieres in Hollywood. For the past several years, Richard and his wife, Ashley, have owned and operated IvyWild Inn in Wenatchee. In addition to the bed and breakfast, their busy catering business and occasional cooking classes, the Kitoses were getting ready to open Lulu’s Restaurant in East Wenatchee sometime in mid-August. Richard shared a light salad recipe featuring two of the Valley’s specialties, apples and pears. He says Lulu’s menu will “focus on the local bounty that is available in the Wenatchee Valley.”

Apple-Pear Salad on Romaine with Candied Pecans courtesy of Richard Kitos Dressing

1/4 cup red wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves 1/4 cup whole grain mustard 1/3 cup honey 3/4 cup canola oil In a blender combine the first 4 ingredients, blend, then slowly add the oil until it is all incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.

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Chef Richard Kitos with his Apple-Pear Salad on Romaine with Candied Pecans. Candied pecans

Salad

1 cup pecans 1/3 cup sugar 1 tablespoon Sriracha

2 Gala apples cored and chopped 2 pears cored and chopped 1 head romaine lettuce, shredded 1/4 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

Bring a pot of water to a boil, put the nuts in and cook for 2 minutes. Drain through a colander then toss with the sugar and Sriracha. Put on a baking sheet that has been sprayed with oil, bake at 350° for about 25 minutes, turn 3 times with a spatula while baking.

In a bowl toss the apples, pears and romaine, then lightly toss with desired amount of dressing. Put on a serving plate, top with the pecans and Gorgonzola, serve and enjoy.


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Jennifer Crane Pyle likes to cook with the season’s freshest ingredients.

JENNIFER CRANE PYLE

is executive director of Wenatchee’s Community Farm Connection (CFC), whose projects include managing the Farmhouse Table produce shop. She previously served as CFC’s development director. Pyle knows her apples and knows how to enjoy them. “I like to cook and bake with traditional varieties of apples like McIntosh,” she says, “as these apples have tartness that makes an apple pie pop with flavor, as well as a firmness that holds up under high heat in the oven. As delicious as a Honeycrisp may be for snacking, it’s not going to be my go-to for a pie.” She reminds people “that apples are diverse, and each variety is best suited for a specific purpose. The Farmhouse Table features a host of heirloom varieties that may be wonderful for cider, or sauce, or

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September / October 2013

Apples add some tartness to Pyle’s sauté recipe. At right, ready to serve. pie, but are rapidly disappearing from production because they may not store well for long periods of time or have the higher sugar and acidity that modern palates expect in a snacking apple.”

Butternut Squash Apple Sauté courtesy of Jennifer Crane Pyle 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 McIntosh apple, cubed 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 bunch kale, de-stemmed and coarsely chopped 1 medium squash, peeled and cubed

5-6 fingerling potatoes, 1/2-inch pieces 1 shallot, chopped 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons butter Sauté squash in olive oil over medium heat 5 minutes. Add apples, potatoes, garlic and shallots. Continue to sauté about 5 minutes. Stir in kale and pour apple cider vinegar over entire mixture. Remove from heat. In a separate pan, over medium heat, brown butter with constant stirring (will burn if not watched). Pour brown butter over sautéed veggies. Salt and pepper to taste.


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Richard Uhlhorn photo

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September / October 2013

an apple orchard in Manson. A devout foodie and skilled home chef, Fraser is also the author of Savoring Leavenworth and Savoring Chelan, cookbooks that feature local recipes and local wines. She is currently pursuing new food and life adventures in Boquete, Panama. Fraser’s top tips for incorporating apples into home cooking: add Granny Smiths, with their acidic bite, to butternut squash soup to counter the sweetness. Use apples and applesauce as great low-fat replacements for butter or margarine in baking. Try sharp cheddar, bleu or even Cambazola (Camembert Gorgonzola blend) cheese slices with Galas, Fujis or Honeycrisps. Or pair sweeter apples like Golden Delicious with chèvre. She especially recommends lavender chèvre from Sunny Pine Farm in Twisp, which is available at Farmhouse Table and Wenatchee Natural Foods. “Really, though,” Fraser says, “the local apples are so good off the tree that they could be simply eaten as they are or turned into applesauce.”


Chipotle Butternut Squash Soup

Congratulations NCW Wine Award Winners

dilly.deli

courtesy of Morgan Fraser 1 butternut squash 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 large cloves garlic, diced 1 red onion, diced 4 stalks celery, diced 6 carrots, diced 1 Granny Smith apple, cored and diced 1/4 cup golden raisins 1 quart chicken or vegetable broth 13.5-ounce can coconut milk or light coconut milk 1 small can chipotle peppers in adobo sauce Sour cream or plain yogurt for topping Preheat the oven to 400°. Cut the butternut squash or pumpkin in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Place the halves face-up on a cookie sheet, drizzle with olive oil and add salt and pepper. Bake the squash for 30-45 minutes, or until a fork easily goes through the flesh. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and allow to brown slightly. Add the onion and cook for 5-7 minutes or until tender. Add the celery, carrots, apple and raisins, stirring to coat. Cook for 10-12 minutes. Add the chicken or vegetable broth and coconut milk. Open the can of chipotle peppers and add one or two only to the soup, depending on how hot you like it. Pour in some of the sauce, but remember it will get hotter than it is initially. Simmer the soup on medium-low heat. When the squash is done, allow to cool enough to handle. Scoop out the flesh and add to the soup. Pour batches of the soup into a blender or food processor to purée. Be careful — the soup will be hot. When all the soup has been puréed, add salt and pepper to taste. Serve in bowls with a dollop of sour cream or plain yogurt. If you like an even sweeter end result, mix honey into the sour cream or yogurt. Serve immediately or freeze to enjoy later. Yield: 6 to 8 servings

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inside home

Story By dee Riggs photos By Don Seabrook

History Rem Couple turns abandoned granary in Bridgeport into their new home

K Melba Troutman Cannon photo collection

Kathy and Scott Wright’s granaryturned-home in the town of Bridgeport sits next to the Columbia River. Originally built as a flour mill, the building later became a lumber mill, shown when this undated photo was taken, and then a grain storage facility. 20

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September / October 2013

athy Wright says her husband thinks “out of the box.” That might be an understatement. At age 80, the longtime entrepreneur, who retired 15 years ago from the polyurethane foam compounding business, is putting the finishing touches on a major remodel. And we mean major. Scott Wright has renovated a 70-foot-tall former flour mill and

granary into a residence. “The building talks to me,” Scott says. “I don’t know how to explain it.” The Wrights, who built and live in a house next door to the granary, hope to move in this summer. Wright and Kathy, 65, say they are excited for the project to come to fruition. “I like the uniqueness of it,” Scott says. “I don’t follow the herd and I like unique things, and the grain elevator is at least unique to other structures.”


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“I like the uniqueness of it. I don’t follow the herd and I like unique things, and the grain elevator is at least unique to other structures.” Scott Wright September / October 2013

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Kathy and Scott Wright stand in the kitchen of their granary-turned-home in the town of Bridgeport. The kitchen floor is original planking that held grain. Scott used sawdust and epoxy to fill in the gaps between the planks. Countertops are made from lumber salvaged from the building. At right, Scott used forks and spoons for door handles on the kitchen cabinets. Scott first saw the property in 2006 on a trip to Bridgeport to visit a friend. According to historical records, it dates back to the 1890s when it was a flour mill. When the Wrights bought it, the property had been abandoned for at least three decades. “The flour mill was just majestic,” he said. “It called to me; it said, ‘I need your help.’ ” 22

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When Kathy heard that Scott wanted to turn the old building into a home, she was skeptical. “I thought he was a little crazy,” she says. “That building wasn’t talking to me like it was to Scott.” But she knew from experience that he is a “can-do” guy. When she met him, he was living aboard a schooner in Friday Harbor that he had renovated.


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Foothills Magazine presents its 2nd Annual

PHOTO CONTEST

Enter your photos taken in North Central Washington for the chance to win cash prizes and see your photos published in the magazine! Photos will be judged in two categories — human subjects and landscapes.

Get all the details at ncwfoothills.com/photocontest Entries must be submitted by Jan. 4, 2014

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When the Wrights cut away sections of walls that divided the nine separate grain storage units, they ran into many nails — wrecking many saw blades in the process. “He follows his dreams,” she says. “I knew he would do something incredible with it.” The Wrights bought the structure and surrounding land in 2006. They lived in a motorhome while they built their home next door, then hired contractors to start the renovation of the old, massive building. It was a daunting task. “The building had nine grain elevators inside it when we bought it,” he says. Scott hired Mike Mair of Okanogan to do the initial work, which involved cutting through the wooden grain elevators, removing most of them and building floors and walls in a cavernous space. Then he hired John Barry, who moved from Wenatchee to Bridgeport, to do the rest of the work.

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Kathy and Scott Wright stand at what is now the front door to their five-story, 8,000 square-foot granary-turned-home in the town of Bridgeport. They will eventually move the entrance to another side of the building. Barry has worked on the project for about two years, and shakes his head and laughs when asked how much of a challenge it’s been. “You can’t just cut a hole through 18-inches of concrete wall to get a bath fan or a dryer vent to the outside of the building,” he says. Barry used existing window space in the old mill to hold new windows. “I’m not afraid of heights but, having to set windows on scaffolding that’s 70 feet high, well ... ” he pauses and laughs again. Barry calls the project “hands down the most challenging and difficult process I’ve ever done. Most builders don’t get to make gigantic pocket doors and hang tubas.” Tubas? Scott wanted one made into

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The home contains rooms like the master bedroom that are open and spacious.

In the next-to-bottom floor of the Bridgeport granary, walls of the separate grain storage units have been cut away and are used for storage.

Elegance and quirkiness can be found throughout the Wright’s new home. Above, a tuba is made into a lighting fixture in the living room. At left, Kathy Wright’s bathroom sink is made from stone gathered from Mount Everest.

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September / October 2013

a light fixture. It hangs in the first floor. The former flour mill is now 8,000 square feet of living space over five floors and breaks down as: ◆◆ First floor: a small kitchen and bath with a large room that Scott calls the “grand salon.” ◆◆ Second floor: two bedrooms and two baths. ◆◆ Third floor: the master bedroom, two master baths and a laundry room. ◆◆ Fourth floor: the kitchen and dining room ◆◆ Fifth floor: a small room with a wet bar and another room that offers a sitting area with large windows that open for an outdoor feel. Scott calls the fifth floor the cocktail lounge. The floors are connected by a staircase and by an elevator that, Scott says, he had to order from Italy because no company in the United States made one for all the floors he needed. The views from the mill house are nothing short of fantastic. The Columbia River flows just off the back yard and Chief Joseph Dam is visible from floors four and five in the summer, and from all five floors in the winter when leaves have fallen from the nearby trees. The Wrights have both the flour


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Views of Chief Joseph Dam are found even through interior windows — here from a kitchen looking into the dining room from the top floor. The kitchen backsplash and most of the moldings in the building are galvanized steel. At top, the view from the top floor of the granary home looking north includes the town of Bridgeport and the Columbia River. mill house and their current home on the market and say they plan to live in whichever one doesn’t sell. Both hope, however, that they can make the flour mill their home. Scott thinks the renovated flour mill will sell to someone who likes a unique home. He says he abides by the old slogan that, when buying a home, a person should think, “location, location, location.” But, he adds, “when the ‘wow’ factor exceeds the location, you’re really living then.” F

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in style

Poppin’ Tags With a nod to rapper Macklemore’s “Thrift Shop” song, we put $20 in the pockets of three students, including writer Emily Wooldridge. We challenged them to buy a back-to-school outfit at local thrift stores without breaking budget.

W

hen they strut down the school hallways this fall, Edgar Barrera and Morgan Wickenhagen will have a look that’s far more unique than a brand-name — a first impression that is entirely their own. “All guys want to look good,” says Edgar Barrera, a student returning to Wenatchee Valley College this fall. “Even though they say they don’t care about fashion, they do.” Edgar hadn’t spent much time in local thrift shops before taking the challenge, Continued on Page 37

Can you buy a school outfit for less than $20? Our student-models did by going the thrift-shop route. Edgar Barrera, Morgan Wickenhagen and Emily Wooldridge each came in under $20, doing rapper Macklemore proud in the process.

Story By emily wooldridge photos By Kathryn Stevens


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Advice from a Veteran

ntering a thrift store can feel as intimidating as walking into a classroom of unfamiliar faces on the first day of school. The hodgepodge of clothing — the differing shades, sizes and styles — in a secondhand store can leave you yearning for the organized aisles of the familiar Target or Forever 21. At typical clothing stores, it’s easy to find your size. All the options are displayed under attractive lighting, and attendants are eager to help you zip up your dress. You don’t even have to think about putting outfits together — the mannequins, fashion spreads and apparel of store attendants in shops like Abercrombie & Fitch leave nothing to the imagination. They clearly express how the store’s clothing should be worn, and we are happy to comply. These amenities surely make the shopping experience breezier, but with higher price tags, it’s easier to spend a lot of money. Thrift shopping is an entirely different experience. You have to rummage through the racks, navigate through wrinkles and face strange smells. Thrift shopping, like the first day of school, may make you feel uncomfortable, but by the end of the day you’ll be happy you braved the unfamiliar. You will likely encounter something new that captivates you. The extra work you put in will save you a lot of money and encourage you to create more imaginative


Student and writer Emily Wooldridge tries on a hair accessory at Hippie Vintage Shop in Wenatchee. ensembles. I started thrift shopping when I was in middle school. I made a beeline to Salvation Army and Goodwill to find costumes for school plays. Today, the thrift shop finds I have in my wardrobe don’t help me transform into Oliver Twist or Huck Finn — they help me express myself. The items I’ve purchased at secondhand stores, such as a pair of designer Guess jeans, floral dresses and leather patchwork shorts, have received many compliments, so I was excited to take the Thrift-Shop Challenge for my back-to-school look. After spending two hours in the Salvation Army and Goodwill in Wenatchee, I found an outfit for $15.26. My advice for thrift shop firsttimers is to explore. Dig into those racks and try on as much clothing as possible. Don’t be deceived by a few wrinkles — they can easily be fixed with an iron. Don’t be afraid to try on things that aren’t exactly your size. You can alter or use oversized items in creative ways — a long shirt can serve as a dress when paired with leggings. While shopping, keep in mind that mixing thrift shop finds with clothes you currently own can really freshen up your wardrobe. — Emily Wooldridge

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The Outfits

Edgar Barrera Age: 22 City: Wenatchee School: Wenatchee Valley College Parents: Pedro Barrera and Gloria Blanco Hobbies: Biking, hiking, swimming, movies, jogging, shopping Favorite school subject: Everything Career goal: Become a registered nurse My style in three words or less: Unique Shoes — $4.99 Shorts — $3.99 Shirt — $2.99 Total — $11.97

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Conservation Makes Cents

• Rebates on new appliances, windows, insulation and ductless heat pumps • Free refrigerator recycling, plus a $30 rebate • Free manufactured home duct sealing Learn more at chelanpud.org Morgan Wickenhagen goes for the alternative look. From Page 32

but he took Macklemore’s advice to heart. He knows secondhand stores are cool. Despite his lack of experience, Edgar was able to score an outfit in about an hour after exploring the Goodwills in Wenatchee and East Wenatchee. He spent $11.97 in total for his casual outfit, perfect for a warm fall day. While shopping, Edgar had some difficulty finding his size. He noticed that “there were more options for girls,” but this didn’t make his shopping experience more challenging than the coursework he tackles at the college. “Thrift shopping wasn’t as easy as finding v-necks and dress shirts at H&M and Forever 21, but it was fun going out and discovering things,” Edgar says. He appreciates that thrift shopping helped him save money — college tuition and textbooks don’t come cheap. “When I go shopping, I spend a lot of money when I have it,” he says. “It was good to have a budget.” Morgan Wickenhagen, a senior at Eastmont High School, enjoys Continued on Page 41

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Morgan Wickenhagen Age: 18 City: East Wenatchee School: Eastmont High School Parents: Amy Wickenhagen, Steve Wickenhagen Hobbies: ASB, cheerleading, Key Club, helping others Favorite school subject: History Career goal: Become a nurse practitioner My style in three words or less: Casual but unique! Jacket — $3.99 Shirt — $3.99 Pants — $6.99 Total — $14.97 38

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September / October 2013


You can come to Seattle Children’s Hospital without coming to Seattle. Seattle Children’s regional clinics in Bellevue, Everett, Federal Way, Mill Creek, Olympia, Tri-Cities and Wenatchee offer world-class care in your neighborhood. Which means families don’t have to drive for hours to get the medical expertise you’ve come to expect from Seattle Children’s. And the same talented doctors who practice at our main campus travel to the regional clinics, like Cardiologist Dr. Mark Lewin, pictured here. Because at Seattle Children’s, we believe every child deserves the best care possible, no matter where they live. To learn more, visit seattlechildrens.org or call (206) 987-2000.

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7/18/13 11:38 AM


Emily Wooldridge Age: 18 City: Entiat School: 2013 graduate of Entiat High School and Wenatchee Valley College; will attend Brown University in the fall Parents: Carol and Paul Wooldridge Favorite school subject: English Career goal: Journalist My style in three words or less: Expresses an idea Shoes — $1.50 Blazer — $6.77 Dress — $6.99 Total — $15.26

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Wooldridge and Wickenhagen at the Hippie Vintage Shop near the Federal Building in Wenatchee. From Page 37

transforming an old pair of jeans purchased from a thrift store into a cute pair of shorts with the help of scissors. She was a secondhand store enthusiast before her friends started blasting Macklemore’s song in their cars. It’s no surprise that Morgan is as good at handling money as she is at managing her time. She balances cheerleading, a student leadership position, two jobs and school. Unlike many girls her age, Morgan doesn’t like wearing yoga pants. “I wore them for half a day, and I was like, this is not for me,” she says. “I like dressing up for school.” Many girls Morgan’s age have no interest in thrift shopping. Some have difficulty comprehending the value of money — they don’t have to work or pay for things with their own money like Morgan does. She doesn’t mind that some of her peers don’t share her enthusiasm for secondhand stores — she’s finding all the great deals. After spending about two hours shopping at the Goodwills in Wenatchee and East Wenatchee, Morgan found an outfit for $14.97. She had some difficulty finding her size and pieces that went together, but these obstacles were nothing her will and creativity couldn’t overcome. “Don’t be afraid to just go in there and dig because you’re bound to come upon something good,” she says. “Never underestimate what could be in there.” F

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offbeat

Texting ... Bliss Littler A

native of Minot, N.D., Bliss Littler has been the coach of the Wenatchee Wild hockey team since May, 2012. He has won more games at the junior hockey level than any other coach. He led the Wild to the finals of the Robertson Cup last season. When ownership moved the Wild team to Texas after the season, Bliss chose to stay behind and coach the new Wild team, formerly located in Fresno, Calif. The Wild take the ice for their home opener Oct. 4 at the Town Toyota Center. This interview was done completely by text message. Words in parentheses were not part of the original texts.

First, please explain the origins of the name “Bliss.� Just a family name. My grandfather was named Bliss. Not a name you hear a lot. What was it like playing for the Robertson Cup, then finding out the team was being moved to Texas? The Robertson Cup was a lot of fun. As far as the team moving, (owner) Bill Stewart had already told the team that it would likely be moving and most likely to southwest Texas, so we had already gotten through the surprise of not staying in Wenatchee.

Wenatchee Wild coach Bliss Littler as he prepares to talk to his team and the crowd after the Wild won the NAHL West Division finals game earlier this year. Photo illustration


By cal fitzsimmons What are your expectations? Just be competitive? Battle for the cup? Did you put the decision about whether to move to Texas to a family vote? I would not say a vote but my kids and wife wanted to stay here in Wenatchee all along. It was tough because of the relationship I had with Bill Stewart. We moved out here last August and absolutely love living here.

If they made a movie about your life, which actor would be best to play you? Sean Connery. In The Rock.

Despite all your success, you were fired in Omaha. It’s an occupational hazard but how tough was that for you? Very tough. We were having a lot of success winning games and moving players on. I learned that owners can change coaches for any reason. I threw up every day for a month and lost 40 pounds after. Glad I had a good contract that kept paying me. It was very hard telling my boy he couldn’t be around the Lancers anymore. Oh man. You have to pretty much build a team from scratch right now. How is that going? It’s exciting. I am lucky that we have an outstanding staff that has put a few teams together.

Get better every week in all areas, win our last game and move players to college. We have a saying here: Do junior hockey better today, better than it’s ever been done before. What do you do for non-hockeyrelated fun? I have a 9-year-old boy and a 6-year-old daughter that take up most of my and my wife’s time. I do like to play golf and go to the lake. Did you know anything about Wenatchee before you were hired to coach here? I came out to the Robertson Cup when Wenatchee hosted it (2010). (Former coaches) Paul Baxter and John Becanic were friends of mine, so I had what they thought of it.

And they told you they liked it here, I assume. They both liked the area a lot, as well as the people. The travel schedule for this season looks brutal. (Hope you like Midwest winters.) How will you cope with that? Great opportunity for team building. Hats, boots, gloves and a warm jacket.

You’ve coached a few players who eventually were drafted by NHL teams. Do you keep in touch with any of them? Yes, that is the fun part of the job. What’s the craziest thing you’ve ever seen in a hockey game? In Billings one year, the lights went out during play in the neutral zone and nobody got hurt. Some comebacks have been pretty amazing, including the one against Jamestown last season here in Wenatchee when we scored two goals in the last minute and won in a shootout. How good were you as a player? Did you dream of playing in the NHL? Dream, yes, but I was an average junior player. I realized quick that the NHL was not in the cards as a player. I did play for some very good coaches. Ideally, would you be playing the former Wild team for the Robertson Cup in the near future? I think that would be a lot of fun. I would think with what they return they will be a favorite to win the league. The kids that went to Texas are great kids that I wish all the best. All the battles we went through last year. I love them all like family. The group we have coming in I’m very excited about. I would like to wish the former Wild players and Bill Stewart all the best down in South Texas. Do Wild fans make enough noise, or do they need to turn it up a couple notches? Wild fans are Awesome and make the Town Toyota Center a great place to play.


Silvara St Quartette blend takes the show

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Best of Show, Gold Medal 2010 Quartette 2 Silver Medals 1 Bronze Medal

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ary Seidler wasn’t particularly happy with the outcome of his 2010 Malbec, so he started blending, a little Cabernet Sauvignon, a little Merlot, a little Cabernet Franc. “I didn’t do it alone. There were a couple of other good winemakers involved,” Seidler, Silvara Vineyard’s co-owner, said. “It’s crazy.” Seidler said he had dinner with three winemaking friends and several different bottles of his new wine. “We did our blending trials over dinner. We drank a lot of wine. It came out good.” He called the resulting wine Quartette, a red blend that judges at this year’s North Central Washington Wine Awards found very much to their liking. They named Silvara Vineyards 2010 Quartette Best Red Wine and Best of Show to go along with a gold medal. The wine is a blend of actually five wines: 43 percent Malbec, 32 percent Merlot, 21 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 2 percent Cabernet Franc and 1 percent Petit Verdot. Seidler said he made all of the wines — with the exception of the Cabernet Franc, which he purchased — with Craig Mitrakul, in 2010 when he was working with Mitrakul in the former Ryan Patrick Vineyards production plant in Cashmere. Ryan Patrick Vineyards has since moved to Mattawa. Mitrakul is now head winemaker for Karma Vineyards in Chelan. The wine is good because he used the very best grapes available that year, Seidler said. “A lot of expensive fruit went into that wine.” Silvara Vineyards is one of the region’s younger wineries. Seidler and co-owner and

September / October 2013

Silvara Vineyards owners Cindy Rarick and Gary Seidler founded the winery in 2008. winery director Cindy Rarick, a professional golfer, founded the winery in 2008 and built its elegant tasting room on the hill above Smallwood’s Harvest in Peshastin, three miles east of Leavenworth. The rustic lodge-style building overlooks rolling pear orchards and the Wenatchee River with views of the snowcapped Cascades. Seidler sources grapes from some of the best and oldest vineyards in the state, including Wallula in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA near Kennewick, Kestrel near Yakima, Klipson at Red Mountain and Milbrandt Vineyards’ Evergreen site in the Ancient Lake region. He’s excited

Story By Rick Steigmeyer


rikes

Gold

Silvara Vineyards has one of the most scenic tasting rooms in North Central Washington. Co-owner/winemaker Gary Seidler built the structure himself over a seven-month span. about a 2012 Chenin Blanc he made from grapes purchased in Grandview. That wine earned a silver medal in the NCW Wine Awards, as did his 2010 Riesling. Besides Mitrakul, Seidler, who earned a winemaking degree from University of

California at Davis, has worked closely with noted wine consultant Charlie Hoppes to hone his winemaking skills. Seidler now makes his wine at a cooperative production plant in Richland but hopes to one day build his own production center in Peshastin. F

September / October 2013

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Lasting

Impression Platinum Winemakers Circle Award winner Best White, Gold Medal 2012 Sauvignon Blanc Gold Medals 2010 Syrah 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay 6 Silver Medals 1 Bronze Medal

Cave B Estate Winery 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay, 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 Syrah.

Cave B bowls over judges

W Kathryn Stevens

The vineyards at Cave B Winery are among the oldest wine grape vines growing and in use in Washington state.

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hen judges blind tasted Cave B Estate Winery’s 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, the comments were nothing short of ecstatic. “That was the best Sauvignon Blanc I’ve tasted all year,” said judge Ken Robertson, noting flavors of

honeysuckle, lime, smoke, minerals and a hint of Asian pear. “I loved that wine,” said fellow judge Dan Carr, adding that it was a wine he would want to drink all year long. It’s rare that the crisp, somewhat tart, full-bodied wine — a parent of the undisputed king of red wines, Cabernet

Story By Rick Steigmeyer


EstherBric ues

Winery Bruce E. Hutson

Freddy Arredondo, winemaker for Cave B Estate Winery Sauvignon — is picked supreme over all other white wines in a competition. But Cave B’s luscious Sauvignon Blanc did just that. Winemaker Freddy Arredondo’s creation — made from grapes grown on Cave B’s vineyards near George — earned a gold medal and was picked as Best White Wine at the 2013 North Central Washington Wine Awards. Cave B also won gold medals for its 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay and 2010 Syrah. The winery won silver medals for its 2011 Semillion, 2010 Cabernet Franc, 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010 Merlot, 2010 Ancient Lake Caveman Red and 2010 Tempranillo. The winery’s strong showing in this year’s competition also earned it the Platinum Winemakers Circle Award. The range of award-winning wines speaks well for Cave B’s versatile vineyards and wine-perfect soils and climate. The convoluted ridges along the Columbia River between George and Quincy offer a huge change in soils, climate and altitude within a distance of only about 1.5 miles. Average temperature change between high and low plateaus is two degrees, a great span during the long Columbia Basin growing season, said Dr. Vince Bryan, who pioneered NCW’s winegrape growing movement when he planted his first grapes at the site in the early 1980s. The diverse nature of Cave B’s vineyards, and the Ancient Lakes AVA in general, is what makes them suitable for growing so many different grapes so very well. Turning good grapes into good wine, however, is Arredondo’s job. Clearly, he’s up to the task. F

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Exotic Reds Platinum Winemakers Circle award winner Double Gold Medal ´ 2009 Carmenere Gold Medals 2009 Malbec 2009 Sangiovese 2009 Mourvedre 6 Silver Medals ´ 2009 Sangiovese and 2009 Mourvedre. Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Malbec, 2009 Carmenere,

4 Bronze Medals

Four more perennial pours from Chateau Faire le Pont Sampling wine during jazz night at Chateau Faire le Pont winery.

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September / October 2013

C

hateau Faire le Pont has been a perennial winner at the North Central Washington Wine Awards and this year was no exception. The Wenatchee winery won one of only two double gold medals awarded at this year’s competition, along with three other gold medals and six silver medals. The double gold medal was for Chateau Faire le Pont’s 2009 Yakima ´ This year was the first Valley Carmenere. ´ has been entered in which a Carmenere as a varietal in the Other Red division

and judges were very impressed. ´ should be like this,” “Every Carmenere said one judge. Another said it was the best wine he tasted all day: big, full of black cherry flavors, spicy and inviting. Winery general manager and winemaker Doug Brazil also won gold medals for a trio of red wines made from grapes that may also be lesser known to local wine drinkers. Like the Carmenere, Malbec is a wine that has been popularized in recent years by imports from Chile and Argentina. Brazil — who

Story By Rick Steigmeyer


claims no South American heritage himself — sourced Malbec grapes for his 2009 vintage from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA in southern Washington. Sangiovese is better known in Italy, where it is that country’s most widely grown grape and the main component of its famed Chianti. Faire le Pont’s gold medal 2009 Sangiovese came from grapes grown in the Wahluke Slope, a region that is quickly proving itself capable of growing worldclass grapes of nearly any variety. Debé and Doug The Wahluke Brazil are no Slope was also the strangers to the source of Faire le NCW Wine Awards Pont’s gold medalwinners’ circle. winning 2009 Mourvedre, a wine closely associated with France’s Rhone and Provence regions. Chateau Faire le Pont definitely found favor among judges with its reds, winning silver medals with its 2009 varietals Merlot, Syrah and Grenache and red blends Confluence and Tre Amore. The winery also won a silver medal for its 2010 Commander’s Reserve Port. The impressive showing also loops Chateau Faire le Pont into Foothills Magazine’s Platinum Winemakers Circle, a special award that recognizes the region’s top wineries. Faire le Pont also won the award in 2011 for its outstanding showing in the North Central Washington Wine Awards. Brazil, a former U.S. Navy helicopter pilot who picked up his winemaking knowledge in Europe, said his goal is to make world-class wines that complement great food. His efforts have been spot-on. His wife, Debé, markets the wines and manages the winery’s Chateau Grill restaurant, tasting room and gift shop in Olds Station. F

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Tasting Room Eagle Creek Winery 617 Front Street in Downtown Leavenworth 509-548-7059

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Remarkable Rosé Best Rosé/Gold Medal 2012 Rosé of Syrah Gold Medal 2012 Riesling 8 Silver Medals 1 Bronze Medal

Jones of Washington’s ruby red wine tastes as good as it looks Jones of Washington, 2012 Rosé of Syrah and 2012 Riesling

G

leaming like a ruby held up to the sun, Jones of Washington’s Rosé of Syrah could easily win an award on beauty alone. Judges at the North Central Washington Wine Awards admired the irresistible look and loved the crisp, fresh fruit flavors of this 2012 wine, made from 100 percent Syrah grown at Jones’ Two Gun Vineyard northeast of Quincy. The wine is the first winner of a new category in the three-year-old competition. Judges named Jones of

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Story By rick Steigmeyer


Washington Rosé of Syrah the Best Rosé after blind tasting about a dozen pink wines on June 5. Judges noted aromas of wild plum, lime, citrus and rose petal with “wonderful fruit” flavors and plenty of acid to offset its 0.5 percent residual sugar. At just $13, Rose of Syrah was also one of the best bargains of any wine in the competition. Rosé of Syrah wasn’t the only Jones wine to medal. The Quincy winery’s 2012 Ancient Lakes Riesling also won gold. Jones wines also won eight silver medals for its Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Sangiovese. With wines crafted by head winemaker Victor Palencia, Jones of Washington has been on a tear for the past two years, winning awards at competitions throughout the state and nation. Jones grows all its grapes on more than 1,300 acres of vineyards the family owns near Quincy and Mattawa. Palencia uses most of the grapes to fashion huge amounts of bulk wines for some of the state’s largest wineries, including Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. He reserves the best and pays special attention for Jones’ own wines. Jones recently added a second tasting room in the new Pybus Market in Wenatchee. Its original tasting room is in Quincy. F

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Milbrandt Platinum Winemakers Circle award winner Gold Medals 2010 The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Traditions Merlot 2010 The Estates Merlot 2010 Vineyard Series Mosaic 2 Silver Medals

Milbrandt Vineyards 2010 Vineyard Series Mosaic, 2010 The Estates Merlot, 2010 The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon and 2010 Traditions Merlot

Award-winning vineyard has another great show

B Josh Maloney is the winemaker for Milbrandt Vineyards.

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utch and Jerry Milbrandt have been growing grapes near Quincy and Mattawa for many of the state’s best wineries since the late 1990s. A few years ago they decided to start making their own wine and the medals have flowed in ever since. Milbrandt Vineyards wines earned four gold and two silver medals in this year’s North Central Washington Wine Awards, equaling last year’s

haul of gold and silver. The fact that this year’s winners are very different wines from the previous year speaks well of the versatility of Milbrandt’s vineyards and the talent of winemaker Josh Maloney. The Milbrandt family has expanded over 60 years farming in the Columbia Basin with a wide variety of crops. The two brothers now grow about 2,000 acres of wine grapes. It also


’s Might

Jerry and Butch Milbrandt enjoy a glass of wine outside their Milbrandt Vineyards tasting room in Prosser. The Milbrandt family has farmed in Grant County for more than 60 years. sources grapes from about 30 other grape growers in the Wahluke Slope and Ancient Lakes growing areas. Much of the crop is made into wine for other wineries at Milbrandt’s custom crush operation in Mattawa, Wahluke Wine Co. An increasingly larger portion of the crop, however, is now bottled under the Milbrandt Vineyards labels. Milbrandt Vineyards produced about 8,000 cases of wine in 2007, its first year in operation. The total increased to about 50,000 cases in 2011. Last year, volume jumped again to more than 80,000 cases in about 20 different varieties,

blends and price categories. That’s in addition to about 400,000 cases for other wineries. This year’s gold medal winners were Milbrandt’s 2010 The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010 Traditions Merlot, 2010 The Estates Merlot and 2010 Vineyard Series Mosaic red blend. Its 2012 Riesling and 2011 Brothers Blend both won silver medals. Milbrandt Vineyards also receives the Platinum Winemakers Circle Award for the second straight year because of its exceptional showing in the competition. F

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Meet the Judges Moderators

Eric Degerman is a wine author and journalist. He was managing editor of Wine Press Northwest magazine for 15 years before launching Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company. He judges wine professionally throughout the West Coast. He lives in Richland.

Andy Perdue is a third-generation newspaperman and author. He was editorin-chief of Wine Press Northwest magazine for 15 years before launching Great Northwest Wine, a news and information company. He is the Seattle Times wine columnist. He lives in Richland.

Judges Kristine Bono is the winery evangelist for Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Prosser and Woodinville. She oversees the wine club and hospitality. Prior to that, she worked in hospitality at Col Solare on Red Mountain. She lives in Benton City. Dan Carr is co-owner of Visconti’s Italian Restaurants in Wenatchee and Leavenworth. The restaurants’ awards include Wine Spectator Award of Excellence recipient since 1998; Wine Spectator “Best of” Award of Excellence recipient 2009, 2010 and 2011; Washington Wine Restaurant Awards; Winemaker’s Choice award 2009; and Washington Wine Grand award 2011. Listed in Sommelier Guide to Restaurants in America. Don Elsing is the wine director at Sun Mountain Lodge near Winthrop. Under his leadership, Sun Mountain has received numerous awards for its wine list. The Wine Cellar at Sun Mountain contains one of the most extensive resort wine collections in the Pacific Northwest. Recent awards include the 2012 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence and the 2012 Washington Wine Grand Award given by the Washington Wine Commission.

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Mike Rader is a financial consultant and longtime wine enthusiast. He judges wine throughout the Pacific Northwest and is a member of Great Northwest Wine’s tasting panel. He lives in Kennewick. Barb Robertson has earned Advanced Certification and Diploma coursework through Wine and Spirit Education Trust. She has worked in the Northwest wine industry for more than 10 years, including distribution, sales, production and marketing. She lives in Wenatchee. Ken Robertson is a retired newspaper editor with more than 35 years of wine writing experience. He is a professional wine judge and is a longtime columnist for Wine Press Northwest magazine. He lives in Kennewick. David Seaver is a member of Wine Press Northwest Magazine’s Tasting Panel. He participates in Wine Press Northwest peer reviews of specific wine varietals and categories of wine. Has judged regional wine competitions in Idaho and Washington. Heather Unwin is the executive director of the Red Mountain AVA Alliance. Prior to that, she worked for Terra Blanca Winery on Red Mountain. She lives in Richland.


Wine Stars Begin to Shine I

f three years can make a trend, then we are starting to get a clearer picture of the North Central Washington wine scene, thanks to the NCW Wine Awards. Overall, the improvements we’ve seen in the region’s wine quality over the past decade have been remarkable, and wineries here compete on a state, national and global level. This area’s agricultural tradition and its willingness to attract visitors and treat them right bode well for the future of wine tourism. Looking at the results of the first three years of the NCW Wine Awards, a few points are clear: ◆◆ Chateau Faire le Pont in Wenatchee is crafting superb wines, particularly reds. In 2011, it won five gold medals, followed up last year by two more (including best red wine). And this year, it delivered four more golds (including a unanimous double gold). ◆◆ Jones of Washington in Quincy, is the real deal thanks to the talents of winemaker Victor

Palencia. In 2011, Jones won best white wine and a double gold medal. It followed up this success in 2012 with four gold medals. This year, it won best rosé and a gold medal. ◆◆ Milbrandt Vineyards in Mattawa, has become a big-time producer the past few years. Last year, it won four gold medals and followed up this year with four more. ◆◆ Dutch John’s Wines in Cashmere is not on many wine critics’ radars, but it should be. Owner George Valison earned two gold medals in 2011, a gold last year and two golds this year. Of these six gold medals, five were for Syrah. These are just four of the story lines from the first three years. I look forward to seeing who By Andy Perdue else emerges from this exciting young wine Special to Foothills Magazine region. Andy Perdue is editor and publisher of Great Northwest and the Seattle Times wine columnist. Learn more at greatnorthwestwine.com.

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Double Gold

Cabernet Franc

Other Red

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2008 Cabernet Franc, $26, (22 cases) Wahluke Slope

Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Carménère, $40, (75 cases) Yakima Valley

Judges’ comments: Not far from Mattawa on the warm Wahluke Slope, Ginkgo Forest is proving to be a player in the Washington wine scene. This Cab Franc from estate grapes offers aromas of black cherry, mocha, moist earth and blueberry, followed by flavors of clove, black currant, plum and cranberry. It’s a hedonistic wine and bigger than many Cab Francs, and it should pair perfectly with beef bourguignon.

Judges’ comments: Simply put, owner Doug Brazil is making some of the region’s top wines at his Wenatchee winery. Carménère is a rare Bordeaux red variety that was thought to be nearly extinct until enjoying a revival in the past 15 years. This is a great example, thanks to its aromas of black cherry and black pepper, followed by flavors of rich dark fruit, walnut and exotic spices. Every Carménère should strive to be this good.

Tasting room open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday 22561 Road T.7 S.W., Mattawa (1.5 miles north of Mattawa) (509) 932-0082; ginkgowinery.com

Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday and Monday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday though Saturday 1 Vineyard Way, Wenatchee (509) 667-9463; fairelepont.com

Tacoma tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday 2221 N. 30th St. (Old Town), Tacoma (253) 301-4372; ginkgowinery.com

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Chateau Faire le Pont 2012

Jones of Washington Milbrandt Vineyards 2013

Cave B Estate Winery Chateau Faire le Pont Milbrandt Vineyards September / October 2013

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Gold Red Blend Best of Show, Best Red More Gold winners on Pages 62-64

Merlot Milbrandt Vineyards 2010 Traditions Merlot, $16, (8,000 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: The Milbrandt brothers are the largest grape growers on the Wahluke Slope near Mattawa and the Ancient Lakes near Quincy, and they also are one of the state’s largest wine producers from their facility in Mattawa. This classy Merlot opens with aromas of smoke, chocolate and cherry, followed by flavors of ripe red cherry, coffee and currant. Smooth, layered tannins give way to a memorable finish.

Silvara Vineyards 2010 Quartette, $33, (390 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: This young winery along the highway between Peshastin and Leavenworth has created a beautiful destination — and some superb wines to go along with it. This blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc is a stunner, starting with inviting aromas of black cherry and chocolate, followed by flavors of boysenberry, cherry and huckleberry. The wellmanaged tannins provide just the right amount of structure for this delicious red wine. Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily between May 1 and Dec. 31; open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday through Monday from Jan. 1 through April 30. 77 Stage Road, Leavenworth (above Smallwood’s Harvest) (509) 548-1000; silvarawine.com

Tasting room open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily 508 Cabernet Court, Prosser (509) 788-0030; milbrandtvineyards.com

Milbrandt Vineyards 2010 The Estates Merlot, $25, (3,000 cases) Wahluke Slope Judges’ comments: The Milbrandts’ upper-end Merlot lives up to its billing, thanks to aromas of blackberry, blueberry and chocolate, followed by flavors of boysenberry, Bing cherry and black tea, all backed with supple tannins and a big finish. Enjoy with grilled or roasted meats. Tasting room open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily 508 Cabernet Court, Prosser (509) 788-0030; milbrandtvineyards.com

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Cave B Estate Winery 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, $20, (350 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: Sauvignon Blanc is most famous in Bordeaux and Loire Valley in France, as well as New Zealand. This example from the George area shows off some of the best that Washington has to offer. It reveals aromas of honeysuckle, lime and just a twist of smoke that invites further exploration. On the palate, it provides crisp flavors of gooseberry, Asian pear and a classic grassy note. Shellfish, broasted chicken or salmon all would pair beautifully with this wine. Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday 348 Silica Road N.W., George (adjacent to Gorge Amphitheatre) (509) 785-3500; caveb.com

Cabernet Sauvignon Milbrandt Vineyards 2010 The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, $25, (3,000 cases) Wahluke Slope Judges’ comments: Earlier this year, this was judged the top Cab in the Pacific Northwest amid 140 examples, and it shows beautifully again amid its regional peers. This opens with aromas of leather, black currant, forest floor, plum and blackberry, followed by flavors of black olive, coffee, vanilla, blueberry, plum and cinnamon tea. It’s backed with sensually silky tannins. Tasting room open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily 508 Cabernet Court, Prosser (509) 788-0030; milbrandtvineyards.com

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Sauvignon Blanc Best White

Neppel Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, $25, (105 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: This is just the second release from a young Moses Lake winery, and it’s a dandy. The name comes from Moses Lake’s original name before it was incorporated in 1938. This Cab opens with aromas of black pepper, cinnamon, mint, thyme and blackberry, followed by flavors of plum and cherry. Moderate tannins provide superb structure. Open by appointment only for tastings, wine sales and special events. 1751 Road E N.E., Moses Lake (509) 765-4404; neppelcellars.com


Rosé Best Rosé

Award Winning Wines

Jones of Washington 2012 Rosé of Syrah, $13, (336 cases) Ancient Lakes Judges’ comments: Winemaker Victor Palencia has been making some of North Central Washington’s best wines for the past three years, and this trend continues with this gorgeous Rosé. It reveals aromas of wild plum, lime and rose petals, followed by beautifully balanced flavors of citrus, plum and black cherry. This is a great wine to pair with ham or roast turkey. Wenatchee tasting room open noon to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and noon to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Pybus Public Market, 7 N. Worthen St. #W4 (509) 888-0809; jonesofwashington.com Quincy tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday through Monday from Memorial Day through Labor Day and noon to 5 p.m. Friday through Sunday from Labor Day through Memorial Day. 2101 F St. S.W., Quincy (509) 787-8108; jonesofwashington.com

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Ryan Patrick Vineyards 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, $35, (300 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: This longtime North Central Washington winery is now owned by the Milbrandts in Mattawa and has a tasting room in Leavenworth. It opens with aromas of plum, mocha and black cherry, followed by drink-now flavors of black olive, juicy boysenberry and blueberry. It’s an approachable style of Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily 636 Front St., Leavenworth (beneath Visconti’s Italian Restaurant) (509) 888-2236; ryanpatrickvineyards.com

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udging for the North Central Washington Wine Awards took place June 5 at the Confluence Technology Center in Olds Station. Great Northwest Wine’s Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman moderated the two panels comprised of four judges each. It was a double-blind judging, with the eight judges knowing nothing about the wines in front of them. Judges were not allowed into the back-room staging area until judging was complete. The back-room staff, led by Hank and Nancy Sauer labeled glasses, opened bottles, decánted red wines, delivered flights of wine to judges, washed glasses and kept judges supplied with plates of palate-neutral snacks and water. Each wine was judged on its own merits, with every wine capable of winning a gold medal if it lived up to judges’ expectations. Judges kept notes on a scorecard and gave each wine a rating: gold, silver, bronze or no medal. When judges completed tasting a flight, they handed their score sheets to the moderator who would tabulate results. If all four judges agreed on scoring for a wine, then the scoring would reflect their


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A back-room worker pours a flight for judges. consensus without conversation. If judges were split on scoring, then the moderator would lead a discussion about the merits of the wine, with the judge or judges with the higher scoring explaining their view. Sometimes that swayed the lower-scoring judge(s) to improve their score, but not in all cases. There were multiple golds in some categories, while others did not have a wine that judges believed merited gold. From the 221 total entries, judges awarded 2 double gold, 24 gold, 110 silver and 60 bronze medals. The percentage of winners in each category falls in line with other large competitions, said Perdue.

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Gold Other Red Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Sangiovese, $40, (80 cases) Wahluke Slope

Pinot Grigio Beaumont Cellars 2012 Pinot Grigio, $16.50, (124 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: Pinot Gris is a fast-rising star in Washington, where it is now the No. 3 white grape grown in the state. Here’s a superb example from a boutique Quincy winery. It reveals aromas of lime, star fruit, white flowers and honeysuckle, followed by flavors of lemon, apricot, honeydew melon and minerality. A perfect foil for shellfish. Tasting room open 1 to 6 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday 8634 Road U N.W., Quincy (509) 787-5586; beaumontcellars.com

Tsillan Cellars 2012 Pinot Grigio, $19, (542 cases) Lake Chelan Judges’ comments: Bob Jankelson built his destination winery on the south shore of Lake Chelan and planted his grapes where some of the world’s finest Red Delicious apples once grew. This delicious Pinot Grigio opens with aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and slate, followed by flavors of Meyer lemon and Key lime, all backed with bracing acidity. Enjoy with pan-seared scallops topped with a beurre blanc sauce. Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily 3875 Highway 97A, Chelan (509) 682-9463; tsillancellars.com

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Judges’ comments: The mostplanted red grape in Italy also is finding a home in Washington, where more than 1,200 tons were harvested last year. This superb example opens with aromas of a blackberry reduction sauce and cherry, followed by flavors of classic black cherry and pomegranate, all backed with sturdy tannins that give this wine a bit of an attitude. A plate of lasagna would be perfect with this red.

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2010 Barbera, $20, (143 cases) Wahluke Slope Judges’ comments: Barbera is the third-most-planted grape in Italy (after Sangiovese and Montepulciano). A bit also is grown in Washington with great success, and this is one of the finest regional examples we’ve seen. It offers aromas of black pepper, cherry and blackberry, followed by deep flavors of black cherry and boysenberry, all backed with bright acidity.

Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday and Monday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday though Saturday 1 Vineyard Way, Wenatchee (509) 667-9463; fairelepont.com

Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Mourvèdre, $30, (80 cases) Wahluke Slope

Tasting room open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday 22561 Road T.7 S.W., Mattawa (1.5 miles north of Mattawa) (509) 932-0082; ginkgowinery.com Tacoma tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday 2221 N. 30th St. (Old Town), Tacoma (253) 301-4372; ginkgowinery.com

Judges’ comments: Mourvèdre is a somewhat-obscure red grape from the southern Rhône Valley of France, but it is becoming a favorite among Washington winemakers who find it to be a delicious wine when grown in the arid Columbia Valley. This example offers exotic aromas of teriyaki, spice, chocolate and sweet black cherry, followed by flavors of plum, black currant and black tea. It’s all backed with silky structure that gives way to a long finish that whispers, “Take another sip.” Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday and Monday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday though Saturday 1 Vineyard Way, Wenatchee (509) 667-9463; fairelepont.com

Chardonnay Cave B Estate Winery 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay, $19, (600 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: In the past half-decade, we’ve seen a backlash against butter bomb Chardonnays typical of California, as more wineries are listening to consumers and allowing the grape’s fruit to shine. This tree-

Rio Vista Wines 2011 Tempranillo, $32, (50 cases) Lake Chelan Judges’ comments: Tempranillo is a Spanish red variety most famous in Rioja. It’s also rising in popularity in the warmer areas of the Pacific Northwest. This delicious example offers aromas of black cherry, black tea and dark chocolate, followed by rich flavors of blackberry, boysenberry and black olive. It’s beautifully balanced with seamless tannins. Tasting room open noon to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. 24415 Highway 97, Chelan (509) 682-9713; riovistawines.com

free version from Cave B near George is a great expression of the variety, thanks to aromas of apple, pineapple and lime, followed by flavors of mango, guava and even a hint of banana. Enjoy this with pasta topped with a decadent cream sauce. Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday 348 Silica Road N.W., George (adjacent to Gorge Amphitheatre) (509) 785-3500; caveb.com


Riesling Jones of Washington 2012 Riesling, $12, (761 cases) Ancient Lakes Judges’ comments: This wine won double gold at the Great Northwest Wine Competition in March and struck gold again here. It’s a gorgeous white wine with aromas of lemon, Key lime, jasmine and lavender, followed by bursting flavors of clove, tropical fruit, pink grapefruit, lemon oil and rose water. Wenatchee tasting room open noon to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and noon to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Pybus Public Market, 7 N. Worthen St. #W4 (509) 888-0809; jonesofwashington.com Quincy tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday through Monday from Memorial Day through Labor Day and noon to 5 p.m. Friday through Sunday from Labor Day through Memorial Day. 2101 F St. S.W., Quincy (509) 787-8108; jonesofwashington.com

Featuring Premium Cigars • NCW Wines • Microbrews on Tap • Smoking Patio

Join us for Wine Down Wednesdays 6pm

Check our Facebook page for monthly wine tasting events

527 Piere St. Ste A, Wenatchee, WA

509-881-1722

www.stickshouseofcigars.com

Congratulations to the winners of the NCW Wine Awards! With some of the states best winemakers, wineries and vineyards, the wines of Cascade Valley Wine Country continue to impress.

Malbec Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Malbec, $40, (140 cases) Horse Heaven Hills Judges’ comments: Malbec is one of the lesser-known Bordeaux varieties that has become most famous in Argentina in recent years. It’s also an up-and-comer in Washington, where it has increased in production steadily in the past five years. Here’s a gorgeous example from a top Wenatchee winery that reveals aromas of black cherry, blueberry and fresh flannel, followed by mouthfilling flavors of blueberry, Belgian chocolate and blackberry jam. It’s a dense wine with sturdy yet fine-grained tannins. Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday and Monday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday though Saturday 1 Vineyard Way, Wenatchee (509) 667-9463; fairelepont.com

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Gold Viognier Rio Vista Wines 2012 Viognier, $18, (100 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: How many wineries in Washington can you pull up to in your boat? At least one. Rio Vista is along the Columbia River just north of the cutoff to Chelan. Owner/

winemaker John Little has crafted a classic Viognier that shows off aromas of mango, pineapple and orange, followed by flavors of orange creamsicle and Golden Delicious apple. It has a touch of sweetness, which provides a hint of hedonism to this delicious white wine. Tasting room open noon to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. 24415 Highway 97, Chelan (509) 682-9713; riovistawines.com

Red Blend Icicle Ridge Winery 2012 p.s. I Love You Meritage, $28, (80 cases) Washington Judges’ comments: This young Bordeaux-style red blend is ready to drink now, thanks to aromas of black pepper, cardamom, pomegranate and fresh dill that lead to sturdy flavors of dark fruit, vanilla and red currant. Enjoy this with a steak topped with sautéed mushrooms. Log home winery tasting room open noon to 5 p.m. 8977 North Road, Peshastin (509) 548-7019; icicleridgewinery.com Leavenworth tasting room open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday 821 Suite B Front Street, Leavenworth (509) 548-6156; icicleridgewinery.com

Milbrandt Vineyards 2010 Vineyard Series Mosaic, $28, (450 cases) Wahluke Slope Judges’ comments: One of the up-and-coming wine styles in Washington is southern Rhône Valley blends, and here’s a great example. It is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from the Milbrandts’ Clifton Vineyard along the highway in Mattawa. It’s a silky smooth wine that offers aromas of sweet vanilla and black currant, followed by flavors of plum, blackberry and black pepper. Tasting room open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily 508 Cabernet Court, Prosser (509) 788-0030; milbrandtvineyards.com

Tunnel Hill Winery 2011 Setenta, $33, (80 cases) Columbia Valley Judges’ comments: The Evans family has been a longtime applefarming family in the Wenatchee Valley that has transitioned to the wine business. Tunnel Hill is on the south shore of Lake Chelan, where Guy Evans is the owner/winemaker. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah is a delicious red with aromas of black raspberry, black cherry extract and vanilla bean, followed by rich, hedonistic flavors of plum, blackberry and a hint of smokiness. Tasting room open noon to 5 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; noon to 6 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily through end of September; call for fall tasting room hours 37 Highway 97A, Chelan (509) 682-3243; tunnelhillwinery.com

Syrah Cave B Estate Winery 2010 Syrah, $25, (289 cases) Columbia Valley

Dutch John’s Wines 2008 Sara Syrah, $27, (100 cases) Washington

Dutch John’s Wines 2008 Riverbend Syrah, $20, (100 cases) Washington

Judges’ comments: Young winemaker Freddy Arredondo is one of the rising stars of the Washington wine industry, and his talent is on display in this sumptuous Syrah. It’s a classic with aromas of forest berry pie, black raspberry and a whisper of smoke, followed by flavors of plum, blackberry, chocolate and a hint of smoked bacon.

Judges’ comments: Owner/ winemaker George Valison has a deft touch with Syrah, as he struck gold twice in this competition with the Rhône variety. This opens with aromas of cherry, blackberry, cedar and herbal notes, followed by dark, brooding flavors of cherry, coffee, chocolate and a hint of meatiness. It’s more elegant than powerful.

Judges’ comments: This Cashmere winery is named for John Galler, who owned and operated Washington’s first winery in 1874 in Wenatchee before moving to Omak. George Valison honors this bit of history with some superb wines. This vineyard-designated Syrah opens with aromas of cedar, mint, smoked meat and blackberry, followed by rich, complex flavors of black pepper, plum, chocolate and blackberry. It’s a big wine with a lot of depth.

Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday 348 Silica Road NW, George (adjacent to Gorge Amphitheatre) (509) 785-3500; caveb.com 64

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September / October 2013

Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday; other times by appointment; 207 Mission Ave., Cashmere (509) 782-3845 or (509) 264-1612; dutchjohnwines.com

Tasting room open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday; other times by appointment; 207 Mission Ave., Cashmere (509) 782-3845 or (509) 264-1612; dutchjohnwines.com


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Double Gold - 2010 Riesling Gold - 2009 Red Blend

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Silver

Cabernet Franc Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc, $35, (188 cases) Lake Chelan bensonvineyards.com Cave B Estate Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc, $28, (217 cases) Columbia Valley caveb.com Esther Bricques Winery & Vineyards Cabernet Franc, $25, (42 cases) Washington estherbricques.com Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc, $25, (150 cases) Lake Chelan hardrow.com Jones of Washington 2010 Cabernet Franc, $15, (450 cases) Wahluke Slope jonesofwashington.com Stemilt Creek Winery 2008 Transforming Traditions Cabernet Franc, $32, (78 cases) Columbia Valley stemiltcreekwinery.com Tildio Winery 2009 Cabernet Franc, $30, (125 cases) Lake Chelan tildio.com Vin du Lac Winery 2009 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc, $40, (647 cases) Columbia Valley vindulac.com Voilà Winery 2011 Reserve Cabernet Franc, $22, (20 cases) Washington voilavineyards.com

Cabernet Sauvignon

Beaumont Cellars 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, $28, (90 cases) Wahluke Slope beaumontcellars.com Cave B Estate Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, $28, (509 cases) Columbia Valley caveb.com Dutch John’s Wines 2007 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, $19, (150 cases) Washington dutchjohnwines.com Ginkgo Forest Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, $18, (214 cases) Wahluke Slope ginkgowinery.com Horan Estates Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, $22, (155 cases) Columbia Valley facebook.com/horanestateswinery Jones of Washington 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, $15, (5,900 cases) Wahluke Slope jonesofwashington.com Lake Chelan Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, $28, (499 cases) Columbia Valley lakechelanwinery.com Malaga Springs Winery 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, $32, (50 cases) Red Mountain malagaspringswinery.com Rio Vista Wines 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, $32, 100 cases, Columbia Valley riovistawines.com Wedge Mountain Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, $35, (94 cases) Red Mountain wedgemountainwinery.com

‘37 Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, $30, (330 cases) Washington 37cellars.com

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Chardonnay Beaumont Cellars 2012 Reserve Chardonnay, $30, (25 cases) Ancient Lakes beaumontcellars.com Beaumont Cellars 2012 Chardonnay, $17, (90 cases) Columbia Valley beaumontcellars.com Jones of Washington 2012 Chardonnay, $15, (596 cases) Wahluke Slope jonesofwashington.com Kyra Wines 2012 Chardonnay, $13, (200 cases) Columbia Valley kyrawines.com WineGirl Wines & The Blending Room 2011 Fira Chardonnay, $19, (127 cases) Ancient Lakes winegirlwines.com

Dessert Tunnel Hill Winery 2012 Late Harvest Riesling, (300 cases) Lake Chelan tunnelhillwinery.com

Fortified Chateau Faire le Pont 2010 Commander’s Reserve Port, $25, (70 cases) Wahluke Slope fairelepont.com

Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Lehm Gewürztraminer, $22, (324 cases) Lake Chelan vindulac.com WineGirl Wines & The Blending Room 2011 Fira Gewürztraminer, $17, (113 cases) Lake Chelan winegirlwines.com

Malbec Lake Chelan Winery 2010 Malbec, $35, (400 cases) Columbia Valley lakechelanwinery.com Martin-Scott Winery 2010 Malbec, $28, (96 cases) Columbia Valley martinscottwinery.com Rio Vista Wines 2011 Malbec, $32, (50 cases) Columbia Valley riovistawines.com Tsillan Cellars 2010 Malbec, $28, (220 cases) Lake Chelan tsillancellars.com

Merlot Cave B Estate Winery 2010 Merlot, $25, (457 cases) Columbia Valley caveb.com

Fruit/nongrape

Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Merlot, $23, (160 cases) Wahluke Slope fairelepont.com

Spencer Farm 2012 Blueberry, $26, (7 cases) Washington spencerfruitorganics.com

Chelan Estate Winery 2007 Merlot, $20, (197 cases) Lake Chelan chelanestatewinery.com

Gewürztraminer

Icicle Ridge Winery 2009 Stiletto Red Merlot, $85, (50 cases) Washington State icicleridgewinery.com

Icicle Ridge Winery 2012 The Blondes Gewürztraminer, $26, (620 cases) Washington icicleridgewinery.com


Rio Vista Wines 2011 Merlot, $28, (100 cases) Columbia Valley riovistawines.com Wedge Mountain Winery 2011 Merlot, $28, (95 cases) Wahluke Slope wedgemountainwinery.com WineGirl Wines & The Blending Room 2010 My Derby Wife Merlot, $26, (79 cases) Columbia Valley winegirlwines.com

Other Red Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2009 Sangiovese, $29, (567 cases) Lake Chelan bensonvineyards.com Cave B Estate Winery 2010 Tempranillo, $28, (250 cases) Columbia Valley caveb.com Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Grenache, $30, (70 cases) Yakima Valley fairelepont.com Ginkgo Forest Winery 2009 Mourvedre, $26, (48 cases) Wahluke Slope ginkgowinery.com Jones of Washington 2009 Sangiovese, $15, (469 cases) Wahluke Slope jonesofwashington.com Kyra Wines 2011 Dolcetto, $18, (75 cases) Wahluke Slope kyrawines.com Snowgrass Winery 2011 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Mourvedre, $30, (12 cases) Red Mountain snowgrasswines.com

Other White Cave B Estate Winery 2011 Semillon, $20, (290 cases) Columbia Valley caveb.com Crayelle Cellars 2012 Albariño, $19, (45 cases) Ancient Lakes crayellecellars.com Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2011 Good in Bed Blanc de Noirs, $40, (128 cases) Lake Chelan hardrow.com Kyra Wines 2012 Chenin Blanc, $13, (397 cases) Columbia Valley kyrawines.com Lake Chelan Winery 2011 Stormy Mountain White, $24, (527 cases) Lake Chelan lakechelanwinery.com Malaga Springs Winery 2012 Chenin Blanc, $15, (90 cases) Washington malagaspringswinery.com Martin-Scott Winery 2012 Muscat Canelli, $16, (50 cases) Columbia Valley martinscottwinery.com Silvara Vineyards 2012 Chenin Blanc, $22, (233 cases) Columbia Valley silvarawine.com

Pinot Grigio Eagle Creek Winery 2011 Pinot Gris, $19, (75 cases) Columbia Valley eaglecreekwinery.com Jones of Washington 2012 Pinot Gris, $13, (499 cases) Ancient Lakes jonesofwashington.com

Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Lehm Pinot Gris, $22, (306 cases) Lake Chelan vindulac.com

Dutch John’s Wines 2008 Colockum Red, $26, (150 cases) Washington dutchjohnwines.com

Pinot Noir

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2011 S & M, $35, (150 cases) Columbia Valley hardrow.com

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2010 Pinot Noir, $24, (139 cases) Wahluke Slope ginkgowinery.com

Red Blend

Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2011 The Coquette Cinsault, $35, (71 cases) Wahluke Slope hardrow.com

Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2009 Rhythm, $28, (572 cases) Lake Chelan bensonvineyards.com

Horan Estates Winery 2007 HVH Red blend, $22, (99 cases) Columbia Valley facebook.com/horanestateswinery

C.R. Sandidge Wines 2010 Caris, $40, (155 cases) Chelan/Columbia Valley

Martin-Scott Winery 2009 Raven Ridge Red, $24, (223 cases) Columbia Valley martinscottwinery.com

Cave B Estate Winery 2010 Caveman Red, $18, (1,005 cases) Ancient Lakes caveb.com Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Confluence, $43, (190 cases) Columbia Valley fairelepont.com Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Tre Amore, $39, (190 cases) Columbia Valley fairelepont.com Crayelle Cellars 2010 Gabriel’s Horn, $22, (85 cases) Columbia Valley crayellecellars.com Crayelle Cellars 2010 Bishop’s Block, $25, (44 cases) Ancient Lakes crayellecellars.com Dutch John’s Wines 2007 Great Northern Red, $23, (150 cases) Washington dutchjohnwines.com

Martin-Scott Winery 2009 Cole’s Collage, $20, (76 cases) Columbia Valley martinscottwinery.com Milbrandt Vineyards 2011 Brother’s Blend, $16, (7,900 cases) Columbia Valley milbrandtvineyards.com Rio Vista Wines 2009 Estate Loony Red, $28, (200 cases) Columbia Valley riovistawines.com Stemilt Creek Winery 2008 A Day’s Work, $26, (685 cases) Columbia Valley stemiltcreekwinery.com Stemilt Creek Winery 2008 Caring Passion, $17, (671 cases) Columbia Valley stemiltcreekwinery.com Stemilt Creek Winery 2008 Boss Lady, $24, (300 cases) Columbia Valley stemiltcreekwinery.com Continued on next page

September / October 2013

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Silver Voilà Winery 2011 Cashmere Red blend Couvee, $19, (60 cases) Columbia Valley voilavineyards.com Tunnel Hill Winery 2011 Sacrilege, $25, (140 cases) Lake Chelan tunnelhillwinery.com Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Barrel Select Cuvee Rouge, $25, (923 cases) Columbia Valley vindulac.com

Riesling Ginkgo Forest Winery 2012 Riesling, $15, (166 cases) Wahluke Slope ginkgowinery.com Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2012 Nauti Buoy Riesling, $22, (250 cases) Lake Chelan hardrow.com Milbrandt Vineyards 2012 Milbrandt Vineyards Riesling, $13, (9,000 cases) Columbia Valley milbrandtvineyards.com Ryan Patrick 2011 Ryan’s Riesling, $9, (2,000 cases) Columbia Valley ryanpatrickvineyards.com Silvara Vineyards 2010 Riesling, $22, (200 cases) Columbia Valley silvarawine.com

Beaumont Cellars, Quincy, 509.787.5586 Camas Cove Cellars, Moses Lake, 509.765.9532 Cave B at Sagecliffe, Quincy, 888.785.2283 Dry Falls Cellars, Moses Lake, 509.762.5922 Fox Estate Winery, Mattawa, 509.932.5818 Foxy Roxy Winery, Othello, 509.346.2344 Frenchman Hills, Royal City, 509.346.2280

Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Les Amis Riesling, $19, (1,038 cases) Columbia Valley vindulac.com

Rosé Malaga Springs Winery 2012 Sangiovese Rosé, $17, (60 cases) Washington malagaspringswinery.com Rio Vista Wines 2012 Estate Wild Rose Rosé, $19, (100 cases) Columbia Valley riovistawines.com Malaga Springs Winery 2012 Blanc de Noir, $16, (60 cases) Washington malagaspringswinery.com Tunnel Hill Winery 2012 Syrah Rosé, $20, (80 cases) Lake Chelan tunnelhillwinery.com

Sauvignon Blanc Jones of Washington 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, $15, (512 cases) Ancient Lakes jonesofwashington.com Tildio Winery 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, $20, (125 cases) Columbia Valley tildio.com

Gard Vintners, Royal City, 509.346.2585 Ginkgo Forest Winery, Mattawa, 509.932.0082 Jones of Washington, Quincy, 509.787.3537 Kyra Wines, Moses Lake, 509.750.8875 Neppel Cellars, Moses Lake, 509.765.4404 Saint Laurent Winery, Quincy, 509.888.9463 White Heron Cellars, Quincy, 509.797.9463

Wine is bottled poetry.

—Robert Louis Stevenson

Syrah Beaumont Cellars 2011 Syrah, $24, (153 cases) Wahluke Slope beaumontcellars.com Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2009 Syrah, $29, (335 cases) Lake Chelan bensonvineyards.com Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Syrah, $30, (240 cases) Wahluke Slope fairelepont.com Jones of Washington 2010 Syrah, $15, (1,200 cases) Wahluke Slope jonesofwashington.com Tsillan Cellars 2010 Estate Reserve Syrah, $30, (680 cases) Lake Chelan tsillancellars.com Tunnel Hill Winery 2011 Syrah, $30, (140 cases) Lake Chelan tunnelhillwinery.com Vin du Lac Winery 2009 Barrel Select Syrah, $40, (259 cases) Columbia Valley vindulac.com

Viognier Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2012 Shameless Hussy Viognier, $18, (407 cases) Columbia Valley hardrow.com Jones of Washington 2012 Viognier, $15, (463 cases) Wahluke Slope jonesofwashington.com Tunnel Hill Winery 2012 Viognier, $19, (95 cases) Lake Chelan tunnelhillwinery.com Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Vie! Viognier, $20, (308 cases) Columbia Valley vindulac.com WineGirl Wines & The Blending Room 2012 Fira Viognier, $19, (103 cases) Columbia Valley winegirlwines.com

White Blend Rio Vista Wines 2012 Whacky White, $20, (150 cases) Columbia Valley riovistawines.com The wines of Grant County, Washington

For more information, please contact: Grant County Tourism Commission • P.O. Box 37, Ephrata, WA 98823 509.765.7888 • 800.992.6234

TourGrantCounty.com

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Rio Vista Wines 2012 Sunset on the River, $20, (160 cases) Columbia Valley riovistawines.com Stemilt Creek Winery 2012 Sweet Adelaide, $12, (493 cases) Columbia Valley stemiltcreekwinery.com


bronze Cabernet Franc 37 Cellars 2010 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $37, (40 cases) 37cellars.com Beaumont Cellars 2011 Cabernet Franc, Ancient Lakes, $24, (125 cases) beaumontcellars.com

Cabernet Sauvignon Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake Chelan, $43, (188 cases) bensonvineyards.com Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Elerding Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $38, (145 cases) fairelepont.com Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $23, (180 cases) fairelepont.com WineGirl Wines & The Blending Room 2010 Fira Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $26, (91 cases) winegirlwines.com

Chardonnay Rio Vista Wines 2012 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $17, (100 cases) riovistawines.com

Chateau Faire le Pont 2011 Pomme de Glace, Washington, $23, (75 cases) fairelepont.com Spencer Farm 2012 Bing Cherry, Washington, $22, (81 cases) spencerfruitorganics.com Spencer Farm 2012 Raspberry, Washington, $23, (18 cases) spencerfruitorganics.com

Merlot Beaumont Cellars 2011 Merlot, Wahluke Slope, $23, (54 cases) beaumontcellars.com Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2010 Merlot, Lake Chelan, $32, (379 cases) bensonvineyards.com Dutch John’s Wines 2008 Private Reserve Merlot, Washington, $22, (100 cases) dutchjohnwines.com Eagle Creek Winery 2010 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $21, (75 cases) eaglecreekwinery.com Jones of Washington 2008 Merlot, $15, (2,200 cases) Wahluke Slope jonesofwashington.com

Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Petit Verdot, Yakima Valley, $30, (70 cases) fairelepont.com

Tsillan Cellars 2012 Chardonnay, Lake Chelan, $19, (331 cases) tsillancellars.com

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2010 Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope, $15, (146 cases) ginkgowinery.com

Tsillan Cellars 2012 Estate Nudo Chardonnay, Lake Chelan, $18, (314 cases) tsillancellars.com

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2009 Petit Verdot, Wahluke Slope, $20, (47 cases) ginkgowinery.com

Dessert

Other White

Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2013 Late Harvest Viognier, Lake Chelan, $28, (220 cases) bensonvineyards.com

Malaga Springs Winery 2012 Muscat Canelli, Washington, $12, (25 cases) malagaspringswinery.com

Fruit/Nongrape Cascadia NV Apple, Washington, $12, 500 cases cascadiawinery.com Cascadia NV Apple Blush, Washington, $12, (500 cases) cascadiawinery.com

STOCK UP ON DELICIOUS BREADS

Other Red

Tildio Winery 2012 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $25, (125 cases) tildio.com

Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Lehm Late Harvest Riesling/Gewürztraminer, Lake Chelan, $24, (400 cases) vindulac.com

Artisan Bread Company

Pinot Grigio Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2011 Pinot Gris, Lake Chelan, $20, (250 cases) bensonvineyards.com Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2012 Pinot Gris, Lake Chelan, $18, (250 cases) hardrow.com Continued on next page

“Best Bread” to Pair with Our Fine Local Wines New Location 1556 N. Wenatchee Ave. (North of Rodda Paint)

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bronze

Pinot Noir Benson Vineyards Estate Winery 2009 Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan, $26, (388 cases) bensonvineyards.com Kyra Wines 2010 Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, $18, (92 cases) kyrawines.com Lake Chelan Winery 2010 Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan, $32, (498 cases) lakechelanwinery.com Tunnel Hill Winery 2011 Pinot Noir, Lake Chelan, $25, (170 cases) tunnelhillwinery.com Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Red Cafe Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, $25, (814 cases) vindulac.com Voilà Winery 2010 Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley, $19, (85 cases) voilavineyards.com

Eagle Creek Winery 2010 Montage, Columbia Valley, $23, (75 cases) eaglecreekwinery.com Silvara Vineyards 2009 Red Blend, Columbia Valley, $32, (240 cases) silvarawine.com Stemilt Creek Winery 2007 A Day’s Work, Columbia Valley, $26, (783 cases) stemiltcreekwinery.com Tsillan Cellars 2010 Estate Sinistra, Lake Chelan, $28, (329 cases) tsillancellars.com Tsillan Cellars 2010 Estate Bellissima Rossa, Lake Chelan, $30, (951 cases) tsillancellars.com Chateau Faire le Pont 2009 Provence, Columbia Valley, $35, (140 cases) fairelepont.com

Riesling

Red Blend Beaumont Cellars 2011 Let it Bee Red, Wahluke Slope, $22, (75 cases) beaumontcellars.com Chelan Estate Winery 2006 Reserve Red, Columbia Valley, $30, (348 cases) chelanestatewinery.com 70

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Atam Winery 2011 Riesling, Lake Chelan, $15, (89 cases) atam-winery.com Martin-Scott Winery 2011 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $12, (75 cases) martinscottwinery.com

September / October 2013

Rosé Ginkgo Forest Winery 2012 Rosé, Wahluke Slope, $15, (229 cases) ginkgowinery.com WineGirl Wines & The Blending Room 2012 My Derby Wife Rosé, Lake Chelan, $18, (36 cases) winegirlwines.com Stemilt Creek Winery NV Nettie Rosé, Columbia Valley, $12, (150 cases) stemiltcreekwinery.com Beaumont Cellars 2012 Sangiovese Rosé, Columbia Valley, $17, (30 cases) beaumontcellars.com Cave B Estate Winery 2012 Saignee, Columbia Valley, $18, (314 cases) caveb.com Ginkgo Forest Winery 2012 Rosé of Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope, $15, (92 cases) ginkgowinery.com

Sauvignon Blanc Malaga Springs Winery 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Washington, $15, (60 cases) malagaspringswinery.com Martin-Scott Winery 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $16, (86 cases) martinscottwinery.com

Vin du Lac Winery 2011 Lehm Sauvignon Blanc, Lake Chelan, $22, (369 cases) vindulac.com

Viognier Horan Estates Winery 2011 Viognier, Columbia Valley, $20, (145 cases) facebook.com/horanestateswinery Malaga Springs Winery 2012 Viognier, Washington, $16, (60 cases) malagaspringswinery.com Martin-Scott Winery 2012 Viognier, Columbia Valley, $15, (110 cases) martinscottwinery.com

White Blend Eagle Creek Winery 2011 Adler Weiss, Columbia Valley, $21, (100 cases) eaglecreekwinery.com Tsillan Cellars 2011 Estate Sempre Amore, Lake Chelan, $16, (485 cases) tsillancellars.com Chelan Estate Winery 2011 Chardonnay/ Roussanne, Columbia Valley, $20, (128 cases) chelanestatewinery.com Ginkgo Forest Winery 2012 Ginkgo Blanco, Wahluke Slope, $15, (163 cases) ginkgowinery.com


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71


the vine

Story By rick steigmeyer

Ancient Appeal Ancient Lakes, an uncut gem among AVAs in Washington 72

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September / October 2013

I

t’s hard to imagine anything, save sagebrush, growing along the craggy, desolate and lunarlike landscape close to the rim of the Columbia River gorge, not far from Quincy. The land is so rocky — bubbling with frozen volcanic basalt, layers of cementlike caliche and nearly absent of soil in some places — it’s difficult to find firm footing for a casual walk. And yet this is where a handful of

Don Seabrook

As a sunrise illuminates a mechanical harvest operation of wine grapes at the Milbrandt Vineyards south of Quincy, workers near the end of their work day during last year’s harvest.

veteran growers have broken drills to plant grape vines, set posts and string wire for the state’s newest American Viticultural Area. The Ancient Lakes AVA actually got its start awhile ago. Geologists figure it was about 17 million years ago when volcanoes spewed lava through the area. Much more recently — a mere 15,000 years ago — the region was chiseled, channeled and scoured by raging torrents of water after ice age glaciers


melted, their flows sporadically blocked by ice dams then suddenly released in a series of floods that continued for 2,000 years. The region’s grape-growing history is just a speck in time by comparison. The first wine grapes were planted less than 35 years ago. Grape growing on a commercial scale didn’t begin until the late 1990s when Chateau Ste. Michelle began contracting with local farmers. Ancient Lakes was approved as the state’s 13th AVA last November. There are only about six commercial growers. Vineyards total only about 1,700 acres, a tiny portion of a designated area nearly 100 times that size. Much of the AVA is already planted with other crops. The flat land, with richer soils and access to irrigation water is already taken, some of it by more valuable crops like apples and cherries. Those in the industry do expect vineyards to expand, however, due to the quality of their fruit and the unique character of resulting wines. “I can taste tank after tank of Riesling and the ones from here just stand out,” said Ryan Flanagan, Ancient Lakes vineyard manager for Milbrandt Vineyards and his family”s Ryan Patrick Vineyards. Milbrandt Vineyards farms about 1,100 acres of grapes in the area and is by far the largest wine Ryan Flanagan grape grower in is Ancient Lakes the AVA. Jones of vineyard manager Washington has for Milbrandt about 300 acres. Vineyards and his family Ryan Patrick Both Milbrandt Vineyards. and Jones also farm more than 1,000 acres of vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA near Mattawa. White Heron Cellars, Cave B Estate Winery, Ryan Patrick Estate Vineyards and Beaumont Cellars farm smaller amounts of land in the area. Many of the state’s best-known wineries outside of the area source their September / October 2013

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Don Seabrook

Cornelio Ortiz picks Chardonnay wine grapes in a Milbrandt vineyard last fall. grapes from those vineyards. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s famed Eroica Riesling is made mainly from Ancient Lakes grapes. The local wineries hosted a tour of the region recently to connect the name with a face. The region’s geography, geology, climate, history, farming and winemaking practices all are part of making great wine, winemakers and grape growers said. Four distinct growing areas can be found between the Frenchman Hills and the Beezley Hills, the AVA’s southern and northern borders, Flanagan explained. The caliche soils and sloping hills are mostly planted with Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. Gravel and sand benches closer to the Columbia River are better suited for growing reds like Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, as well as Chardonnay. Basalt-lined coulees channeling in from the Columbia gorge have good air drainage and reflected heat where cool varieties of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling do well. Other vineyards in the area have proved to be good sites of Cabernet Sauvignon and other red varieties. Babcock Ridge and Evergreen Ridge are home to cool climate Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc. Dr. Vince Bryan was the first person 74

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to seriously try growing wine grapes in the area. He grew up in a traditional Italian family and lived in Europe for a while and was looking for a place to grow Pinot Noir and make wine as good as the wines he loved in Burgundy. The cliffs above the Columbia never produced Pinot Noir of that caliber, but the Cave B Estate Vineyards he now owns have produced some outstanding wines with other varieties, 17 different grape varieties to be exact. “People thought I was crazy. No one was growing grapes this far north,” he said about his first attempts in 1980. His first winery, Champs de Brionne, wasn’t as successful as his other venture on the property, The Gorge Amphitheatre, now under other ownership. His second attempt at a winery and luxury inn on the same property, Cave B Estate, is the sun-drenched showcase for the Ancient Lakes AVA, displaying the region’s diversity of fine wines in a frame of stunning scenery. Bryan’s current winemaker, Freddy Arredondo, and former winemakers, Cameron Fries — now owner of White Heron Cellars — and Rusty Figgins, were principally responsible for the lengthy task of getting the AVA designation approved. “The perception is that this is principally a white wine area. That couldn’t farther from the truth,” said

Rick Steigmeyer

Dr. Vince Bryan was the first person to seriously give grape growing a try in the Ancient Lakes area when he planted a vineyard there in 1980. Years later, that operation has become Cave B Estate Winery and Resort. Bryan, leading a group of wine writers through the Cave B property during the recent tour. “The uniqueness of this AVA is that it can do so much in so little space with so many different varieties.” The variation in climate and geology to be found within a couple miles radius in the Ancient Lakes is equivalent to what you would have to travel hundreds of miles in France, he said. “This is like a ride down the Rhone,” said Bryan. F


Ancient Lakes AVA facts u Certified as Washington’s 13 AVA on

Oct. 18, 2012 u About 1,700 acres planted in a region that includes 162,762 acres u Encompasses parts of Douglas, Grant and Kittitas counties u Seven commercial wineries are currently active in the AVA: Beaumont Cellars, Cave B Estate Winery, Jones of Washington, Milbrandt Vineyards, Ryan Patrick Vineyards and White Heron Cellars. Saint Laurent Estate Winery has a production center in the AVA, but sources nearly all of its grapes from its vineyards in the Wahluke Slope. u The AVA varies in elevation from 570 to 1,912 feet and offers 182 growing days with 6.5 inches annual precipitation

Rick Steigmeyer

The Columbia River view from Cave B Estate Winery & Resort.

u Grape varieties include Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. Source: Washington Wine Commission

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The Washington Pass Overlook offers one of the Cascade Loop’s most spectacular views of Liberty Bell Mountain.

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Story and photos By rick Steigmeyer

Loopty-do A spin around the North Cascade Loop is a scenic education

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f you’re looking for a fall weekend or longer vacation destination that combines natural beauty, luscious libation, great food, endless activities and fascinating people, you don’t have to look far. The Cascade Loop lassos some of the most scenic and uniquely agrarian landscapes in the country. The loop encompasses Lake Chelan, the Methow Valley, North Cascades National Park, Whidbey Island and Highway 2 over Stevens Pass and back to Leavenworth and Wenatchee. You can start anywhere and make the entire circle and take it one piece at a time. I hopped on my motorcycle this summer and took the whole Loop, focusing much of my time on activities in the Manson, Twisp, Winthrop and Whidbey Island areas with mountain twists of forest-lined riding and scenic picnic stops in between. The Loop is a popular ride for motorcyclists from

throughout the Northwest and Canada spring through fall. But it’s pretty darn exciting and no less beautiful in any kind of vehicle. Weather can change quickly in the North Cascades during the fall, so check the forecast before you set out. I started from Wenatchee with an early morning ride to Lake Chelan and Highway 150 to Manson. The little uplake village is busy with sun and waterworshipping tourists in the summer, but things begin to slow down by October. Apple and winegrape harvests are underway and the trees and vines are beginning to change color. The lower rim of the lake is home to nearly 20 excellent wineries. Close to Manson, look for Benson Vineyards Estate, Lake Chelan Winery, Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards, Cairdeas Winery, The Blending Room, Tildio Winery and others. With so many wineries and trendy new restaurants to choose from, it’s no

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Dan McConnell

Cool stops along the Loop Fromaggio Bistro: cheese, gelato, coffee, bistro meals, tapas and wine bar; 14 E. Wapato Way, Manson; fromaggiomanson.com Glover Street Market: Local fresh foods, medicinals and spices, wine, juice and lunch bar; 124 N. Glover St., Twisp; gloverstreetmarket.com Blue Star Coffee Roasters: Espresso, gourmet coffee and pastries; 3 Twisp Airport Road, Twisp; bluestarcoffeeroasters.com Thomsen Custom Meats: Fresh-made sausages, jerky and meats cut the way you want; 992 Twisp-Carlton Road, Twisp; thomsencustommeats.com

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Crown S Ranch: Certified organic meats, poultry and farm products; 7 Twin Lakes Road, Winthrop; crown-s-ranch.com

The Lovejoy Inn: One of many B&Bs on Whidbey Island; 5 NW 8th St., Coupeville; thelovejoyinn.com

Bluebird Grain Farms: Certified organic heirloom grains, cereals and flours; 228 Rendezvous Road, Winthrop; bluebirdgrainfarms.com

Front Street Grill: Penn Cove mussels prepared 11 different ways; 20 NW Front St., Coupeville; frontstreetgrillcoupeville.com

Sun Mountain Lodge: Elegant lodging and dining at one of the Northwest’s premier destination resorts; 604 Patterson Lake Road, Winthrop; sunmountainlodge.com North Cascades Institute: Information about North Cascade National Park and North Cascades ecology; classes, hikes, boat tours; Learn more at ncascades.org

Greenbank Farm: Shops, galleries, gardens, trails, Whidbey Island Pies and much more; 765 Wonn Road (just off Highway 525), Greenbank; greenbankfarm.biz Cascade Loop Association: Contact for maps, tours and more information: cascadeloop.com; Whidbey-Camano Islands: Information about Whidbey Island: WhidbeyCamanoIslands.com


wonder the Lake Chelan area is already being called Washington’s “new Napa.” I stopped in at Timi Starkweather’s Fromaggio Bistro at its new can’t-miss-it location on Wapato Way. Starkweather has sold, made and taught cheesemaking and other cooking classes for more than 30 years. She has a popular radio show about food and wine and loves to show people around the bistro, which offers world cheeses, a daily selection of tapas and a wine bar. You can watch Sherry Palmiter make ice cream, gelato and fresh mozzarella through a large viewing window. “We always try to prepare some little surprises,” Starkweather said, while sampling a batch of steaming clams. Manson’s upsurge of new wineries, restaurants and entertainment is attracting tourists that have in the past stayed in Chelan, she said. “That’s not been done before.” After coffee and a scone at the bistro, I was ready to get back on the road. I stopped in at the Rivers Restaurant Super-Stop in Pateros to gas up and

Fromaggio Bistro in Manson is one of several new businesses that have popped up to augment Lake Chelan’s booming wine culture. More than 20 wineries can be found around the southeast end of the lake. met a couple of fishermen who had to show me the huge King salmon they had caught on the Columbia River that morning. Pateros — named for a village in the Philippine Islands by a pioneer who served there during the SpanishAmerican War — is a very friendly town at the confluence of the Methow and Columbia Rivers. A bakery stop at the Sweet Rivers Bakery is mandatory.

The Rivers Restaurant grills some of the best steaks served in North Central Washington. The drive up Highway 153 along the winding Methow River is a trip back in time. The mountain-cradled valley’s rolling pastures — antique farm equipment left where they stopped, dilapidated barns, grazing livestock — can lull you to dreaming of simpler, quieter times. Be careful not to nod off. Keep your wits sharp and eyes open for deer. More are hit by vehicles on this road than nearly anywhere else in the state. Many Methow Valley residents have indeed gone back to older times. It’s tough to earn a living in this region of remote and serene beauty. I made a few stops to visit with free-thinking entrepreneurs who have blended new world business sense with old-world concepts of sustainability. All are open for tours. A coffee stop at Blue Star Coffee Roasters in Twisp adds zip to my tour. This is no ordinary coffee. Owners Dan

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Dan Donohue brought his coffee expertise from Seattle to Twisp to start Blue Star Coffee Roasters in 2007. Donohue, left, and head roaster Sharmarke Yusuf use only certified organic, shade-grown beans from sustainable coffee farms around the world.

Molly Patterson prepares Asian salads at her Glover Street Market in Twisp. The lunch bar, food market, health food and fine wine store features many local products and is a hub for the Methow Valley community.

Jennifer Argraves and husband Joseph Sukovaty applied their engineering backgrounds in rethinking the family’s Crown S Ranch near Winthrop. The ranch produces and sells organic and sustainably-raised beef, pork, lamb, poultry and other farm products online and at their on-farm store. 80

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and Meg Donohue placed first in the America’s Best Espresso competition at the 2012 Seattle Coffee Fest. That was no accident. Dan was a roastmaster and green coffee bean buyer for several big coffee companies before the couple decided to start Blue Star in 2007. Meg had started a couple of successful theater management companies to give her the accounting and marketing skills required. Dan said Blue Star isn’t out to become the next Starbuck’s, but he does want to provide the best espresso coffee available in the region. I think he’s already there. Molly and Jeff Patterson bought Twisp’s natural food store three years ago and renovated it into the Glover Street Market. The store offers locally produced foods from growers who use sustainable practices as well as medicals, spices, fresh ice cream and great wines. The lunch counter and juice bar are a hub for the town’s alternative community. Molly cooks up an awesome menu of soups and stew, raw fruit and vegetable salads and spring rolls. Jeff said the store is an integral part of a new agri-tourism movement in the community, where visitors can come to the source of sustainably produced food and find out why it’s becoming more important to a growing number of families. Two local producers near Winthrop have dug deep to the roots of food production to come up with new ways to produce healthy and tasty food without a load of mysterious additives. Crown S Ranch raises cattle, pigs, sheep and poultry. Bluebird Grain Farms grows heirloom wheat for a line of low-gluten, low-sugar and high protein grains and flours. Joseph Sukovaty and Jennifer Argraves returned to Winthrop to take over the family ranch in 1999, incorporated as Crown S Ranch in 2006. Their engineering degrees helped them come up with ways to apply technology to sustainable animal husbandry. “We started researching and found out there wasn’t much pure science out there. Everything was paid for by big companies who could profit by it,”

The tenderest of tenderloin steaks with truffle butter, potato tart, chorizo, wild morels and locally produced vegetables is a menu mainstay at Sun Mountain Lodge’s AAA Four Diamond dining room. At right, Sun Mountain’s award winning, 52-page wine list includes more than 300 Washington wines. said Argraves. Solar-powered robots move poultry pens to new pasture each day. Gardens and pasture follow animals. Everything moves in rotation, Argraves said. The process creates a balance of natural fertilizers, feed and pesticides. The ranch produces all its own organic hay and grains. “We try to complete a cycle with everything we have,” she said. Argraves and Sukovaty sell their meats locally and offer training at the farm. They also give talks and hold classes around the state on sustainable farming. Sam and Brooke Lucy have taken grain growing back to the beginning of time at Bluebird Grain Farms. They grow a grain known as Emmer Farro. It’s full of the natural vitamins and minerals that have been taken out of today’s heavily processed white flour. “It’s the grain that’s been eaten by civilizations for 10,000 years,” said Sam Lucy. The couple grow, clean, mill and package the grain into several products on their 250-acre farm north of Winthrop. It’s getting late and I’m ready for dinner and a bed. After a day of riding and lots of stops, I’m up for plush treatment at Sun Mountain Lodge. The lodge is itself a destination for tourists from all over the world. It’s no wonder with its four-season activities, panoramic views and rustic luxury. Surrounding trails are used for hiking, horseback rides, mountain biking


and cross-country skiing. Even if you don’t have time to stay, the resort encourages visitors to look around or dine. Staying at the lodge is a splurge, but one you will long remember. Both the resort and its dining room have won AAA’s Four Diamond Award every year since 1994. The restaurant has won consecutive Washington Wine Grand Awards. Wine director Don Elsing showed me through the resort’s wine cellar with more than 5,000 bottles and 600 labels. For dinner I ate Crown S Ranch organic chicken and drank Karma Vineyards wine from Lake Chelan. This is a destination where I could linger awhile. Linger I can’t on this trip. Next morning I’m back on the bike on Highway 20 headed toward Washington Pass. National Geographic Traveler called the wildly scenic highway through North Cascade National Park “one of America’s grandest, most spectacular drives.” The park is indeed a destination with many sights to see and places to camp — no hotels or lodges in the park itself. The highway is also the way to the other side and a place with its own spectacular beauty: Whidbey Island.

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For more about the the Cascade Loop, including maps and suggested stops, check out cascadeloop.com. September / October 2013

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Tourist-friendly Coupeville on Whidbey Island keeps things much like they were when the town was settled in the mid-1800s.

Explore the Loop’s west side for island magic

A

we-inspiring Liberty Bell Mountain and Washington Pass comprise the gateway to the North Cascade National Park and westside destinations on the Cascade Loop. Highway 20 winds upward from Mazama to 5,477 feet at the pass, still far below massive 7,600-foot Liberty Bell. This is photo paradise and there are plenty of easy hikes if you need to stretch awhile. The highway through North Cascade National Park is one of America’s most scenic. For those who want a different perspective, North Cascades Institute offers an interpretive tour of the park with a Diablo Lake boat tour, among its many educational programs. While Westsiders travel the Cascade Loop to popular tourist destinations like Winthrop, Lake Chelan and Leavenworth, drylanders from the east use the Loop to access island paradise. Ferries through the San Juan Islands depart daily from Anacortes. The soaring bridge over Deception

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A clear day on Whidbey Island affords paradise views over Saratoga Passage and Mount Baker in the North Cascades. Pass leads to Whidbey Island. Rushhour traffic can be irritating between Burlington and Oak Harbor, but you’ll be pleasantly soothed once you reach the quiet village of Coupeville. Settled in 1852, Coupeville is one of the state’s oldest towns. Waterfront buildings and a friendly atmosphere preserve its historic charm. Every restaurant serves famous Penn Cove mussels, raised nearby. I feasted on mussels cooked in three different styles at Front Street Grill, washed down beautifully with white wine blends from Whidbey Island Vineyards and Blooms Winery, both located on the south part of the island. Several Victorian homes have been converted to bed and breakfasts, including the Lovejoy Inn, where I stayed. Mitch Richards, who owns the inn with wife Lynda, previously worked as manager of Fort Casey State Park and had all the information on local history and tourist information anyone would need. Greenbank Farms makes for a

diversely entertaining stop while touring beaches, backroads and Olympic Mountain scenery farther south on the island. Originally home to the nation’s largest loganberry farm and later owned by Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates, it’s now publicly owned thanks to efforts by Island County, the Port of Coupeville and The Nature Conservancy. Gift shops, art galleries, a wine shop, a cheese shop, a cafe and home of delicious Whidbey Island Pies are located in the historic buildings. Off-leash dog trails meander over the hillsides, a farm school trains students on all aspects of running a community farm while providing fruit and vegetables for the restaurant and public markets. Solar panels and a rainwater capture demonstration explore harnessing natural resources. Langley, near the south end of the island, is Whidbey’s art community. Schedule a night’s stay if you can, or at least a few hours to shop and dine before heading to nearby Clinton and the Mukilteo ferry back to the mainland. F


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A trio of friends from British Columbia — Barry Sjolin, Dave Phillips and Greg Truman — enjoy


Story By gary jasinek photos By ron mason

a laugh while playing a round at the Desert Canyon Golf Resort Championship Putting Course. September / October 2013

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of a good portion of the sport. Look at it this way: PGA professionals use their putters for roughly 30 strokes every round, and average a total of 71 strokes per round. Thus, on a putting course you can experience the equivalent of 42 percent of the game of golf. But only about 7 percent of it’s aggravation. Here’s what to look for at NCW’s three putting-course jewels: Desert Canyon Golf Resort Championship Putting Course north of Orondo is the longest and arguably most challenging of the three. Designed 20 years ago by Jack Frei, who created the big Desert Canyon course, its holes measure a total of 2,500 feet, with three par-5s that push 200 feet each, and only one par-2. It’s hilly, and the long upward

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No golf shoes? No problem at Desert Canyon Golf Resort Championship Putting Course and other area putting courses. Below left, Luke Stephens of Yakima replaces the flag on Hole 17 before moving on to the 18th. holes require a vigorous swing to advance the ball even partway toward the pin. Some of the course’s picturesque man-made streams and ponds are actually in play, as evidenced by the dozens of balls resting in their depths. Some holes are steeply banked, so a well-struck shot will track the dogleg like an Indy car on a banked curve. On others, hit your tee shot too hard and you’re in the rough — or the desert. Desert Canyon’s remote location makes playing its putting course more of an outdoor adventure than at the other two, which are in the heart of tourist areas. Like the full-size Desert Canyon course, the putting course is a bright-green oasis sharply cut into the surrounding sage. The putting course is open whenever the golf course is, and only during daylight hours (lighted nighttime play no longer is offered). Rates: $12, which includes a complimentary TaylorMade golf ball inscribed with a Desert Canyon logo. Info: 784-1111 Enzian Falls Championship Putting Course occupies a scenic hillside across Highway 2 from the

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The Green on Lake Chelan isn’t exactly on the lake, but it’s awfully close. At right, Taylor Prudinck plays a round. Enzian Inn in Leavenworth. Built in 1999, it was designed by Frei and Enzian Inn owner Rob Johnson, the guy who blows the alpenhorn at the inn’s famous breakfasts. Back then, says inn General Manager Jordan Brown, Johnson had eyes on running a full-size course, and thought the putting course would be a good trial run. (That big course never happened.) Guests of the Enzian and Alpine Rivers Inn, also owned by Johnson, play the putting course for free and make up about half the rounds played there. Others pay $12 at the Enzian Inn’s front desk, then dodge highway traffic before dropping down to the first tee. The holes are tricky and narrow here, with some steep pitches. You can’t get to the pin from many of the teeing areas; the slopes and gravity won’t permit it. The 1,577-foot course is a par 57, with three par-2s and no par fives. Longest hole is the 118-foot No. 13. The Wenatchee River winds past nearby, but the Enzian course has its own water features: You get to walk under a realistic concrete waterfall as you exit the course, and a man-made creek runs through it, but you’d have to be terrible to land your ball in it. If your ball does end up in one of the few sand traps that dot the course, take your one-stroke penalty and drop where it entered the trap. Oh, and goats. Three of them — Nutella, Cocoa and Hansi — groom the hillside above the course, but not the course itself. 88

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Above, Randall Jones and son Matthew of Battle Ground hit the ball in the park-like setting of Leavenworth’s Enzian Falls Championship Putting Course. At left, one of three goats that groom the hillside at the course.

The course is open every day April through October. Information: 800-2238511 The Green on Lake Chelan is operated by the City of Chelan Parks & Recreation Department at Don Morse Park at the head of the lake, where tourists gather at the beach, an RV park and the Lakeside Drive-in. They also

helped push the number of rounds played on The Green to 19,500 last year. Course architect John Fought III was a former PGA pro who designed many award-winning full-size courses. He made the most of The Green’s gently sloping topography to lay out this compact 1,800-foot course with a par of 50. No par-5 holes here, but plenty of testy par-3s.


Built in 1995 at a cost of $330,000, this municipal course offers free recreation to local schoolkids during the school year, said Parks and Facilities Supervisor Jane Farris. For the rest of us, it’s open Memorial Day through Labor Day, and by appointment beyond. Greens fees are relatively cheap at $9 or less, depending on your age and time of day. It’s open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day. Info: 682-8023 F

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Erik Larson putts as daughter Alexa, left, and wife Jodie look on at The Green on Lake Chelan.

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FOOTHILLS CATALOGUE

SHOPPING

A Book For All Seasons Palmer’s Shoes The Gilded Lily Home Collins Fashions Lucinda’s Artisan Gallery Mills Bros. Sidekick Golf Caddy


SHOPPING

LuCINdA’S ARTISAN GALLERy

SIdEKICK GOLF CAddy A revolutionary new golf product that will change the way you play & think about golf. Extremely durable & light weight - only 2.7lbs! It hangs securely on your golf bag. Holds two golf balls, a cigar/towel and multiple clubs for every shot. Great for the driving range & cart path only days. www.sidekickgolfcaddy.com

“The right clubs, right by your side.”

COLLINS FASHIONS Collins Fashions introduces the Brighton collection inspired by the Palace in Versailles, this jewelry features custom bend wire link and pure gold plating for the 14k gold look! The pieces are also produced in brushed silver!! The Brighton handbags are absolutely fabulous for this season! Come preview the new fall and holiday looks at Collins Fashions downtown Wenatchee!! 2 S. Wenatchee Ave. • 509-665-7600 www.collinsfashions.com Follow us on facebook!

Detail is our specialty, in unique “play clothes”. They are durable & comfortable in natural fibers & made in the USA or Fair Trade. Flax Design for your linens, ComfyUSA for Model, Just Jill for cotton, Dairi in Moroccan Cotton, Johnny Was with hand embroidery & Winter Sun for your hand painted designs. Everything is hand picked by Lucinda, including accessories for that “one-of-a-kind look” we all love. Don’t miss our stunning Holiday Collection. 112 Cottage Ave., Cashmere • 307-751-1257 www.LucindasArtisanGallery.com

THE GILdEd LILy HOME Need a gift to go with that bottle of wine?? We have food, books, paper goods, serving pieces and much more! The Gilded Lily and gift giving - a perfect pairing! Voted Downtowns Best for 2013, come by our corner and see why. 2 N. Wenatchee Ave. • 509-663-1733 www.gildedlilyhome.com • follow us on facebook!

MILLS BROS. The place for all things Tommy Bahama! Shirts: Linen, Camp, Polo and Antiqua Half-Zip. Shorts, fragrance, candles, etc! Providing better quality clothing, sportswear, shoes and tux rentals for North Central Washington gentlemen since 1906 at the same location. 10 S. Wenatchee Ave. • 509-662-2650 www.millsbrosmenswear.com

PALMER SHOES Natural Sophistication. Handcrafted Style. Beautifully Børn. The Full Grain Leather Upper Of This Versatile Women’s Boot Features Strap And Buckle Details For Biker-Inspired Style. Opanka Construction And A Padded Footbed Provide A Comfortable Fit And Feel. The Born Alamid Boot Has A Lightweight Rubber Sole To Keep You Steady On Your Feet. 6 S. Wenatchee Ave. • 509-662-8080 www.palmershoes.com

A BOOK FOR ALL SEASONS - Join us for these events!

• Local author/award winner, Kay Kenyon will be presenting her newest book, A Thousand Perfect Things, at the Leavenworth Library, Fri. Sept. 6th, 7-8 p.m.; Book-signing at the bookstore on Sat. Sept.. 7th, 1-3 p.m. • Enjoy an evening at Eagle Creek Winery with Ann Fisher-Wirth, editor of Echopoetry Anthology, Sept. 23th,7-9 p.m. Derek Sheffield, Leavenworth poet will also be present at the event. His poetry is represented in The Ecopoetry Anthology. • Nick O’Connell, author of Storms of Denali. will be doing a presentaion and book-signing at the Wenatchee River Institute on Fri. Sept. 27th, 7-9 p.m. 703 Hwy 2, Leavenworth • 509-548-1451 • www.abookforallseasons.com September / October 2013

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parting shot

photo By mike bonnicksen

Colchuck Lake — seen here with Dragontail Peak in the background — is a popular destination in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area southwest of Leavenworth.

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Wenatchee

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and all of North Central Washington


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Your source for affordable, custom cabinetry for every room in the

marson marson and

lumber inc.

www.marsonandmarson.com Visit us at

11685 US Hwy 2 in Leavenworth

(509) 548-5829 FAX (509) 548-8203

Featuring cabinetry from

Monday - Friday 8am to 5pm Saturday 10am to 3pm

www.marsonandmarson.com/designcenter.html

celebrates the growing wine community in North Central Washington. Congratulations to all the medal winners!

September / October 2013

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Foothills Magazine Sep-Oct 2013