it's magazine | may

it’s MAY 2020

1

3

letter from the editor

4-10

it’s aayesha

11-22

it’s important

23-30

it’s our home

31-34

it’s navigating the world

35-47

it’s what we wear

48-52

it’s being in good health

53-56

it’s where we go

57-63

wanna join the team?

64

thank you

table of contents 2

it’s

a new issue of it’s and I can’t believe it’s almost been a year since the creation of it’s.

We’ve made a bunch of behind-the-scenes changes, and it’s really helped improve it’s so much. We also created some new roles that have helped with widening our audience. I’m really excited to see more and more people discovering it’s.

Last month we also launched our new website: welcometoits.com. We’ve been updating it weekly with new articles, and we are now on a every other day schedule. While all of our articles will eventually find their way onto our website, each magazine issue will give you the chance to read some ahead of time. We are also working on creating exclusive content for just the magazine.

We hope you enjoy this issue! We are constantly improving and thinking of ways to make it more enjoyable to read. If you have any feedback to give, shoot me an email at hello@welcometoits.com.

a i r r a v a h C - Jen Ed itor -I n -Ch i e f | i j e n .ch avarri a

3

A

ayesha 4

“When I was younger, I was watching a documentary about the fashion industry. While watching, I drew a person, but this time I focused on the clothing part which before was usually just a t-shirt and jeans. When I started putting the focus on the clothing, I realized that it was my favorite part of drawing people. I think it’s that fascination with people that made me so interested in how they dress. Fashion is a mixture of beauty, practicality, business, and even prestige,”

5

“When I was younger, I had this attraction of drawing people and specifically, faces.

More commonly, it was anywhere from a mermaid to a set of eyes. I remember art teachers commenting on how even in abstract art assignments, I always found a way to include a face or hand in my work.

But over time this evolved into a love for fashion because fashion is a wearable form of art. When I was younger, I was watching a documentary about the fashion industry.

While watching, I drew a person, but this time I focused on the clothing part which before was usually just a t-shirt and jeans.

When I started putting the focus on the clothing, I realized that it was my favorite part of drawing people. I think it’s that fascination with people that made me so interested in how they dress. Fashion is a mixture of beauty, practicality, business, and even prestige.

When I was younger, I was definitely passionate about being a designer because I think it is so amazing when people can take their sketches and turn them into a wearable look. But in high school, I started to exercise my business skills through marketing competitions, and it made me realize that I loved combining fashion with business. With that, I decided to go into merchandising in college, and now I am back to focusing on my creative input in fashion.

Currently, I am a student in the industry, pursuing a degree in fashion merchandising with minors in business and media studies.

But alongside my education, I believe in growing my skills through life experiences.

Therefore, I took on the role of editor in chief of River City Fashion, my university’s fashion publication. From this role, I have been able to lead my organization through photoshoot collaborations with local

fashion brands. I love what I do with RCF because I get to have that experience of working for a publication and learn how production works for fashion photoshoots.

I also have done a few internships in order to understand what it is like to work for a fashion business, and I run my social media accounts where I work in content creation.

My Instagram account is both my fun hobby and a platform that I take seriously to share my voice about fashion. Especially during quarantine, where I gain a bit of comfort being able to communicate with the community of fashion enthusiasts that I follow and follow me. I hope to grow this into a youtube channel and website in the coming months,”

“When I was younger, I had this attraction of drawing people and specifically, faces.

More commonly, it was anywhere from a mermaid to a set of eyes. I remember art teachers commenting on how even in abstract art assignments, I always found a way to include a face or hand in my work,” 6

7

“I know that I am interested in both working within the corporate world of the fashion industry and also working for myself. I’ve always wanted to start my own business, even if it is more of a side hustle and I dedicate a lot of my time to figuring out where my skills are and how I can turn it into a business.

But I also have a strong interest in market research for fashion e-Commerce, and after interning in that specification, it’s something I know I would want to do long-term. I am however also interested in fashion forecasting because I like the idea of being able to use what is going on in the world from social, environmental, technology, and political changes to understanding where trends will be headed in the coming years. I think building on market research can help me in forecasting because market research does include a lot of understanding of how consumer demand is changing with the times.

Regardless, even though I am the type of person to have a five-year plan, I am well aware that nothing is set in stone. Just being at the point of my life I am in now, I wouldn’t have expected it 5 years ago. So as the industry grows and new jobs emerge, I want to keep an open mind of what I can do. I think part of this is the reason why I like to broaden my

education constantly to keep up to date with the times.

Of course, the fashion industry has benefited from the growth of technology as must industries have but as we can see now. But unfortunately, the use of technology has increased turnaround time in manufacturing, meaning more fast fashion and consumer waste. Even in terms of vegan leather which unfortunately is meant to be an ethical version of real leather is often made with plastic that contributes to the harmful waste in the fashion industry. But something that I am hopeful for is a growth in sustainable sourcing for fabrics like mushroom leather, push for organic cotton, and even recycled coffee grounds.

I also would like to see a more inclusive industry. I think that while many brands have become more inclusive to different ethnicities, body types, and genders, we have a long way to go. I think a great way that the industry could evolve is by people supporting new businesses that want to send out the right message because it means a lot to them, and not just as a marketing tactic. Also, by supporting businesses that are willing to learn and grow because they actually care about their target demographic,”

“I think a great way that the industry could evolve is by people supporting new businesses that want to send out the right message because it means a lot to them, and not just as a marketing tactic,” 8

“As much as I love the sustainability movement, within that alone, I see a lot of flaws. To start off, I see a lot of brands that exploit the movement and implement “greenwashing marketing” meaning they may make the smallest changes to their business practices that don’t make much of a positive impact towards the environment just to be able to market their brand or collection to be sustainable. This doesn’t come as a surprise due to how some businesses treat sustainability as a trend rather than a movement. Then, there are businesses that are sustainable, and put a lot of effort in their business model and may even be candid about their manufacturing and sourcing. An example of this

is Ganni, which puts out a sustainability report annually. The flaw in the emergence of sustainable businesses can be the high price point, making it a privilege to be able to purchase eco-conscious clothing. Of course, people can make a trade-off and invest in slow-fashion with the idea that it will last longer than fast fashion quality, but regardless it is still expensive for the majority of consumers.

The positive part of the sustainability movement is the push towards second-hand shopping, like thrift and vintage stores. This is a great way for people to reuse apparel, especially now when 90’s and early 2000’s fashion has made a comeback to vintage apparel,”

9

“I believe that I am still in search of my personal style, but I also think that it is just a part of life as we learn more about ourselves and grow. When I was six years old and first into fashion, I was for sure from a more imaginative stand-point, where I liked to draw fashion and not really care about my own style. I wasn’t really the type of girl to care to wear dresses until I turned about 11. Then, when I got into the teenage years I spent a lot of time fitting in, that it wasn’t until I turned 15 that I wanted to actually stand out. I believe it was because that was when I started taking fashion classes and reading blogs that I realized having a distinct style is what would make me unique.

When I came to college, I realized that even my

“standing out” style in high school was kind of basic. I also started to thrift more and taking classes with people so interested in fashion that they were majoring in it helped me feel confident in being as stylish as possible. Even if it meant strutting into accounting 101 in 3-inch heels. Now as a rising senior, I am still always curious about how I can improve my personal style and have a wardrobe that isn’t necessarily large in quantity, but very well-curated in quality. I’m interested in both being able to stand out, yet having more of a capsule wardrobe both to remain sustainable by not creating a lot of waste with my clothes and to have pieces that I love,”

a h s e y a A i th e a p s tyl e

10

it’s

IMPORTANT

FEMALE LEADERSHIP AND CONTROLLING COVID-19: HOW DO THEY DO IT? A CAPITALIST WORLD, CLIMATE CHANGE, AND UNSUSTAINABILITY IS THRIFTING BECOMING GENTRIFIED? THE IMPACT OF COVID-19 ON GARMENT WORKERS

11

F E MA L E L E A DE RSHIP A ND CONT ROL L I NG COVI D -1 9 : HOW DI D T H E Y DO I T ?

12

In many countries around the world, the novel coronavirus was, and still is, rapidly spreading. This global pandemic has affected the lives of most in some sort of way. But, not all countries have had such a difficult time stopping the spread.

It has been brought to light that several countries with female leaders have had great success in keeping the damage to a minimum.

13

Upon hearing that the virus was beginning to spread around the world, New Zealand’s Prime Minister, Jacinda Ardern, immediately informed her citizens of the severity of the situation. After shutting down the country’s borders, she stated, “To be absolutely clear, we are now asking all New Zealanders who are outside essential services to stay at home and to stop all interaction with others outside of those in your household.” Ardern’s strict stay-at-home orders are surely successful, seeing as the country has only seen 1,500 cases and just 12 deaths from the virus as of April 26.

14

Norway has also seen relatively few deaths due to COVID-19. The Nordic country has approximately 7,000 confirmed cases and just over 200 deaths.

Erna Solberg, Norway’s prime minister, says she was able to keep the virus under control by locking down the country early and heavily monitoring the spread of the virus in order to take every necessary precaution. She has also received much credit for acknowledging how difficult this time is for children and students, saying that it is ok to be frightened in such an uncertain time.

15

Despite being close neighbors with Italy and Spain, Germany has been able to control the virus much better than their other European counterparts. The Germans have had 145,000 confirmed cases and approximately 4,000 deaths. Chancellor Angela Merkel says that widespread testing is what has set them apart. The accessibility of virus tests has certainly been a key component in keeping it under control.

16

Taiwan has done a commendable job of fighting COVID-19. With a population of about 24 million, only 395 citizens have fallen ill, and six have died. Taiwanese President, Tsai Ing-wen, was quick to close borders and detect cases in order to isolate the patients. Borders were already being monitored for virus carriers in late December, much sooner than most countries.

17

It has become clear that the females leading our world are doing something right.

They have reacted quickly by immediately shutting down borders and by making testing as widespread as possible.

These leaders have found a plethora of success through instituting lockdowns and taking the pandemic seriously from the start. This really makes us wonder what would have been different if all countries had reacted this way.

•

https://wapo.st/2T2ZJP7

•

https://bit.ly/35VGOLr

Written by: Kayla DiSibio 18

A CAPITAL IST WORLD, CL IMATE CHANGE, AND UNSUSTAINABIL ITY Capitalism, which is defined as an economic system and political ideology in which trade and industries are controlled by private owners for profit, continues to have detrimental and unsustainable effects on the world and its people by contributing to global warming and exacerbating existing socio-economic divides.

While capitalism has led to massive financial growth for a small percentage of people, many are suffering.

According to People’s World, extreme wealth concentration due to monopolization is still rapidly increasing. As of 2016, the wealth of the top 1% was equivalent to the wealth of the 99%, with the top 8 richest people having as much wealth as the half the population and the wealth of the ‘bottom half’ falling a trillion dollars in the last five years. The rise of oligarchies and the drive for profits has led to capitalist revolutions in production methods.

Automated and robotic production has led to the exploitation of workers and a significant loss of jobs, contributing to the growing wealth disparity. Essentially, the majority of the world is working to create money and capital they will never have access to themselves.

Not only does the growing impact of capitalism and mass production harm the job market and deepen socioeconomic divides, it is a leading force behind climate change and environmental deterioration. Timber extraction and ‘Big Agriculture’ leads to habitat loss and deforestation; since 2,000, almost 15 million acres of forest have been destroyed, a size roughly equivalent to the state of West Virginia. As natural resources are destroyed to create capital, the earth is treated like a disposable barrier to capital growth. If capitalism persists, carbon dioxide levels will rise even higher, fundamental resources like water will become scarce, and the world will continue to see an increase in unusual weather patterns. For example, unprecedented levels of flooding or wildfires, can be linked to global warming that is largely caused by capitalist desires.

The Indian Ocean Dipole, or the Indian El Niño, refers to temperatures of opposite sides of the ocean oscillating in cycles of warm and cool. In 2019 and 2020, the dipole’s positive phase has been unusually strong, leading to warmer weather with more rain in the East and cooler weather with less rain in the West. According to the Famine Early Warnings System Network, the Horn of Africa has seen rates of rainfall at 300% greater than average, with the rain-triggered disasters leaving about 300 people dead and 2.8 million people affected. On the other side of the Indian Ocean, Australia has seen raging bush fires. The suffering and displacement of people seen in East Africa is only one example of how climate change disproportionately affects poorer and less industrialized nations who can not afford to rebuild their infrastructure and protect their citizens. Additionally, the capitalism and climate crises will eventually lead to unstable political structures as countries begin to fight over shared resources, such as water.

Large-scale industrialization and capitalism is unsustainable due to the stress it puts on the world’s environment and natural resources, and the negative impacts it has on the human rights of the ‘bottom half’, whether through an increasingly unstable American job market or climate-caused displacement of East African citizens.

Though there are many political regime changes to be made when it comes to global collaboration and climate change mitigation, we can make personal decisions that help combat effects of capitalism in small ways. To start, we can shop locally, try our best to support small-scale agriculture, and be aware of how and where the products we buy are made.

• •

https://bit.ly/2LruyZw https://bit.ly/2WuuBdq

•

https://bit.ly/2Z2ZKXd

Written by: Georgia Fish 19

IS T HRI FT I NG B E COMI NG GENT RI FI ED? Gentrification (noun): the process of renovating and improving a house or district so that it conforms to middleclass taste.

The key phrase in that definition is “middle-class taste.” Oftentimes, gentrification occurs in low-income areas and neighborhoods; think the used-to-be shabby area of town that’s now home to the artsy coffee shop everyone loves to visit. Although gentrification often brings about growth, it also can be economically and culturally devastating for the original inhabitants of the area. With thrifting becoming so popular and done out of desire rather than necessity, it begs the question: is thrifting becoming gentrified?

Shops now known as “thrift stores” began appearing in the late 1800s when Christian missionaries needed to fund their efforts. Groups such as Salvation Army and Goodwill were launched during this time, collecting goods from local communities to sell in their shops. This also allowed immigrants, specifically Jewish immigrants, to shop and become “Americanized” while these missionary groups funded their efforts and launched social service programs.

However, as these stores became more popular in the 1920’s., the operation of them changed as well as the language used surrounding second-hand stores. Instead of being called “junk shops,” they became “thrift stores” as “thrift” carried a marketing appeal that made middle-class buyers feel virtuous and frugal, as well as feeling as though they were doing their community a greater service.

While shopping second-hand is both economically and environmentally beneficial, most consumers aren’t acknowledging the privilege of being able to choose to shop at a thrift store. While YouTube and Instagram influencers post videos of thrift hauls, thrifting challenges, and thrift flips, some families have no other option but to shop at stores such as Goodwill or local community thrift stores. If you’re going to a thrift store and buying a pair of jeans, an item you already have three pairs of at home, with plans to cut them into shorts, you could be taking a pair of jeans someone needed for school or their new job.

In order to appeal to millenials and young buyers, many thrift stores, especially chains, have tried to include higher-end pieces and update the physical storefront. This also resulted in an increase of prices in many stores.

While this is fine for those who have the choice to shop there or somewhere else, it could be debilitating for lowerincome individuals. For local thrift stores that were unable to keep up, this meant it was time for them to close their doors for good. Now, not only are individuals who need to shop at thrift stores being affected, but so are the owners of the small community businesses.

As thrifting has become more popular, those that second-hand shops were originally created for are becoming less likely to shop there, and may find it harder to keep up with the changing climate of second-hand shopping. Some argue that with thrifting increasing in popularity there will be an influx of revenue coming into the communities the second-hand shops are in and resulting in a betterment of the community all around. Others argue that “when privileged people come into these areas to shop, live, or build their own businesses, they often displace those already living and working there.” Sara Tabio even points out that with the growth of different resale shops, consumers can find second hand stores that cater to their economic status without taking away from low income individuals.

20

THERE IS NOT AN EASY ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION OR IN THE DEBATE OF THRIFT STORES AND GENTRIFICATION That being said, for those of us that have the privilege to choose to thrift or not it is important to be aware of the effects your consumerism may have and what you can do to be a more conscious shopper. There are other ways to second-hand shop than just traditional thrift stores with sites like Depop, Poshmark, and ThreadUp becoming popular. It could be that for those of us who may be having a negative effect on low income shoppers and communities that online thrifting becomes the better way to second-hand.In her blog post on thrifting and white environmentalism, Megan McSherry offers two ways to become a more conscious thrift store shopper and combat thrift store gentrification: 1. Think about our purchase-to-donation ratio. She includes the quote, “If you frequent thrift stores and make a lot of purchases but aren’t giving back, you’re taking advantage of something that wasn’t really created to benefit you. Not recognizing that, at the least, is an issue.”

2. Donations matter. Donating clothes that are in good condition matters. Clothes that are ripped or stained belong in a recycling plant, and wouldn’t be sellable anyway. “[My friend’s] constant remarks about “still being able to smell the Goodwill” on my clothes stuck with me. I began to resent myself and my family for not buying the same types of clothes my friends had,” Catherine Bither writes in an article for her college newspaper. What she was made fun of for as a kid is now nonexistent as the image of thrift stores has shifted over the years. It isn’t an easy question or debate to answer, but the key is being conscientious as you shop and participate in thrift store operations. As communities continue to gentrify, it is important to be aware of the effects on your local communities as well as how you as a consumer play into that. To end with a quote from Catherine Bither’s article on her experience with thrift store gentrification, “...we cannot ignore the consequences that our reckless shopping has on working-class and low-income families.” Shop second hand, but shop smart.

• •

https://bit.ly/2WQqMhO https://bit.ly/2Wuii0U

• •

https://bit.ly/3fQG9j5 https://bit.ly/3bxSxRJ

• •

https://bit.ly/2WxrVfq https://bit.ly/2Z4JhBY

Written by: Nicole Coppage | i nicoleecoppagee 21

T H E I MPACT O F COVI D-1 9 ON GA R MENT WO RKE RS Among other things, COVID19 has exposed the problems of the current fashion system, which is based on overproduction and is built on the exploitation of the most vulnerable. Here are some things you can do to demand a change. I also urge you to use this time to reflect on what aspects of our normal life are worth going back to.

This global pandemic, scary and unprecedented, has affected everyone but especially those in developing countries, like most disasters do. Many of these people are those who make our clothes, already disadvantaged due to the lack of sick pay, paid leave, or adequate health care. Many lives and jobs have been and will be lost. This is a true tragedy but we can all do our part in supporting the most vulnerable. There is a petition you can sign here to support garment workers who haven’t been paid for completed orders since the arrival of Covid-19. Over $3 billion worth of orders were cancelled or paused and some big brands like Asos, URBN (Urban outfitters, Free people, Anthropologie) and JCPenney haven’t yet paid for the finished items. This is unfair for workers who have no savings or severance pay to sustain themselves. Perhaps pressure from their customers will urge these companies to pay up.

You can ask brands to be more responsible as well as transparent by: • posting on instagram using the hashtag #whomademyclothes tagging the brand • share the #payup campaign so it can reach more people • donate to the garment worker centre here • Send a letter or an email using this template to those brands who haven’t paid for the orders they have already placed with their suppliers This crisis has meant that no one can do business as usual; production and consumption will inevitably slow down, so it’s important for us to use this time to educate ourselves if we can. First of all, the excess inventory that brands are left with should teach them that overproduction is not the way to go. A point that is worth noting, especially since Earth Day was not long ago, is that decreasing pollution is possible and in many parts of the world improvements have already been seen. This is obviously not the only way to fix what we’ve done to the environment, but it suggests that it’s possible to reverse global warming seeing that in just a few months positive changes have been observed.

This lockdown, which is pretty much a worldwide event, can also be an opportunity to start (start what?), as so many of us already are, by looking after the clothes we have, sewing on buttons, repairing hems, darning holes. You can choose to spend the extra time on our hands scrutinising fashion brands and asking for greater responsibility.

Investigate your clothes, be curious, and continue to be active from home. Through social media you can raise awareness about the most vulnerable people in the fashion industry – the garment workers without healthcare or sick pay, whose dire living and working conditions will be made even more acute by this pandemic.

We can use this crisis to pause: take stock, focus on our social conscience, reflect, and ensure that the drastic measures we are facing will lead us to be better prepared and more committed as we move to a more mindful, considerate future, which which may require a rethinking of what is “normal.”

Written by: Gaia Rattazzi | i ssustainably_ 22

it’s

OUR HOME

“WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU’RE NOT GONNA BUY ANYTHING FOR A YEAR?” COMPOSTING 101 YOUR AFFORDABLE AND SUSTAINABLE GROCERY SHOPPING GUIDE A GUIDE TO CSAS

23

“ wh at d o yo u m ean you’re not go n n a b uy a nything f or a year ?”

I get called intense a lot. I’ve been “going to the extremes” quite a bit lately.

But my decision to not buy anything new for an entire year was a long time coming. For my entire adult life, I took our planet for granted. I enjoyed and appreciated nature, avoided littering, and turned off the lights when I left a room, but I never saw Earth for what it is: a massive and miraculous gift.

But then one weekend in 2019, my partner and I took out the trash TWICE in one weekend. And it hit me. EVERYONE was taking their trash out. Everyone was taking their trash out every single week. It wasn’t just me who was living this excessive and waste-filled life. I started thinking about the journey my trash bag made after it clattered into the bin. Where does it go? How long does it stay there?

I realized that throwing your trash out every week, only to be collected by people and dumped into a hole in the ground is basically…organized littering.

Why is throwing away BAGS of my own garbage in a landfill THAT MUCH different than just chucking my trash out of my car? Because it all goes to the same place, out of sight and out of mind? That didn’t make sense to me, and after a few days of having an “oh no here I go again” feeling, I decided to DO something. I didn’t know what it was yet, but I knew where to start.

So I set out to make less trash. It started with an all-nighter, researching and reading about sustainability until I stumbled upon the zero-waste movement. For many “zero-wasters”, the goal is to not make ANY trash. I decided to ease in, and not make any wild commitments right away. We started with a compost bin, and the difference in the amount of trash leaving our house was SIGNIFICANT. Composting all of our raw food scraps enabled us to keep our trash bag in the kitchen LONGER, because it didn’t ever smell like rotten food. I couldn’t believe how much space in the bin was filled by food waste. We had chickens in the neighborhood who happily ate up all the scraps they could, and the rest was composted for the garden. We took it further by choosing to purposely avoid plastic packaging on food. By purchasing only produce, bulk, and canned goods, we were able to reduce our trash down to only a regular grocery-bag sized bag each month. It got addicting, and this waste-free living adventure took a serious turn in November of 2019.

I learned about minimalism. I watched in AWE as the Marie Kondo movement swept over America. I learned that SPACE was beautiful to me, and sometimes walls just ARE pretty, even if I don’t plaster books and shelves and pictures all over them. Simplicity called to me like a SIREN and I responded with an emphatic, “hell yes.” I downsized everything. I donated over 70% of my belongings by sorting through boxes of “storage” and trying on a closet-full of clothes I didn’t even LIKE. I learned that some people literally only use 30 pieces of clothing and that it makes getting dressed WAY easier. So I attempted a capsule wardrobe, donated all my other clothing, and promised to not buy any more clothing unless I really NEEDED it.

Well.

It turns out, you really don’t NEED too many things. As I looked around my nearly-empty apartment, I noticed that the light coming in through the windows was delicately coating the walls in gold. I admired the wood floors and saw the natural grain of the wood, since we’d removed that carpet that I never liked in the first place. I was just BEING. And I decided, once and for all, to commit. I would commit to this sustainability thing, because life is bigger than fast fashion, impulse purchasing, endless makeup ads, 24 hour news cycles, and throwaway culture. I wanted to learn to control my spending, control my consumption, and control the impact I had on the world.

24

One of the biggest drains on our environment, one of the largest causes of pollution, is clothing. There is a REASON our shirts can be bought for $3. The reason is that we don’t give a shit who’s making it. Don’t care who it comes from, who sewed it, who threw a bucket of factory sludge into a nearby source of drinking water, how far it had to travel to get here, how it will be thrown in a plastic bag and then to the back of my closet, and how I will most likely end up tossing it because it “doesn’t actually look as cute as I thought it did”. I can’t even tell you how many times this has been me. I decided if I didn’t NEED any new clothes, I wouldn’t buy any. As a matter of fact, I wouldn’t buy any new clothes for the whole year.

I decided to take it further. I wasn’t going to buy any new clothes, or any new THINGS, for a whole year. I would make do with what I had. I would refuse to buy on impulse, or because an ad on Instagram tells me that this suchand-such fits my aesthetic so well, or because it’s Christmas and in order to show my family I love them, I have to purchase something they don’t need and FORCE them to keep it. What a weird tradition. Nope. For a whole year, I will buy nothing new. I can buy used, secondhand, thrifted, but only if it’s absolutely necessary.

It’s May now. I’ve been doing this Project for about 5 months. Not only have I saved so much money, but I’ve also found peace of mind for the first time in quite some time. The project has motivated me to look at what I value in my life. It’s encouraging me to examine the activities, places, and experiences that bring me joy. I spend a lot more time cooking. I play outside a lot more. I have spent zero time in malls, department stores, or Targets. It takes me 5 minutes to get ready. I read a lot more, and they’re all books from my local library. I’m learning how to garden.

It’s brought about a lot of changes in my life.

The biggest change so far? I like myself a lot more. I like that advertising doesn’t “work” on me. I like that I put my priorities first. I like that my home is clutter-free instead of curated. The goal of this year isn’t just to avoid bringing new things into my home; it’s a year of focusing on gratitude. I’m training myself to step away, to slow down and see that not only do I HAVE enough, but I AM enough. So yes, I’m intense. But in today’s society, being intense about living intentionally is a really good thing.

Written by: Aleah Mohamed | i nonew_project z www.nonewproject.com 25

com post ing 101 Ever find yourself wondering if those banana peels and carrot tops are breaking down in the landfill? Well, it turns out that organic matter, such as food waste and coffee grounds, is one of the biggest producers of methane gas in landfills. This is because vegetables and fruits need the right amount of oxygen, moisture, and nutrients to break down. Landfills are tightly-packed, low-oxygen environments which essentially prevent organic matter from biodegrading, causing it to spend years in a landfill without decomposing. How can we avoid this harmful process?

Composting!

WHAT IS COMPOSTING? Composting is the natural process of biodegradation of leaves, vegetables, fruits, and dry plant materials into a rich, black soil, which can be incorporated into a garden for added nutrition and soil microbes.

Compost encourages earthworm activity, returns nutrients such as calcium to the earth, and reduces your kitchen waste all in one fell swoop.

WHERE CAN I COMPOST? People with even a small amount of yard space or a balcony can purchase a compost bin at a garden supply store. People with large property could consider creating a compost ‘heap’ with no container.

While there is a common conception that food waste has an unpleasant odor, aerobic decomposition, such as in composting, reduces odors to almost nothing due to a healthy bacteria population and good oxygen flow. If compost does start to smell, try turning it with a pitchfork or adding dry materials, such as leaves or grass cuttings. A container that rotates with a handle will produce the quickest compost due to increased aeration, but you can also use a stationary plastic or wire bin and turn the compost manually.

WHAT IF I DON’T HAVE A GARDEN? If you don’t have a garden to enrich with your compost but are looking to reduce your kitchen waste, look for a curbside composting program in your area. These often work by having you put your waste in a bucket on the sidewalk and then picking it up and taking it to an industrial composting facility. One benefit of curbside composting is that industrial composting facilities can process a much larger variety of items than a backyard compost bin, such as meat scraps, bones, corn cobs, pizza boxes, cheese, and lobster shells.

WHAT CAN I COMPOST? It is important to have a balance of green, nitrogen-rich and brown, carbon-rich components in a compost bin.

If using a curbside composting program, check with the company for any items to leave out of your bucket. Try to balance the green and brown ingredients, turn the compost with a pitchfork every few weeks, and add water occasionally.

GREEN INGREDIENTS • Coffee grounds • Fresh leaves • Vegetable and fruit scraps • Freshly picked weeds • Eggshells

BROWN INGREDIENTS • Dry leaves • Pine needles • Pet hair • Woodchips • Sawdust

*Items to leave out of compost include meat, dairy fish oils, plants with pesticide residue, and pet waste.

26

HOW CAN I USE COMPOST? Compost is usable when it is a rich black or brown color and uniformly looks like soil. If you have a compost bin, you can use the compost at the bottom because the top will most likely not be broken down yet. Simply incorporate compost through garden beds in the spring before planting, let it sit for several days, and then plant, observing how robust and healthy your plants look from all the extra nutrients!

Composting can be an amazing way to reduce waste and methane gas in landfills, enrich your vegetable or flower garden, and benefit the worm and microbe populations in your garden. It may seem daunting to get started, but these tips and tricks should help you get started in no time!

Written by: Maddi Grossman 27

you r a ff o rd a ble and sustainable g ro c e ry shopping guid e Whether you love it or hate it, grocery shopping is something we all have to do. For environmentally conscious individuals, this simple errand can turn into a stressful situation as they try to balance two objectives: shopping sustainably without breaking the bank. It is even more difficult right now as we navigate through the COVID-19 pandemic. Budgets may be tighter and sustainable options are limited- such as the bulk food section closing to limit contagion. Luckily, there are steps you can take to keep your bills and carbon footprint low. It just takes a little extra planning, but it’s worth the payoff. Here’s how to grocery shop in a way that benefits you and the planet.

WRITE YOUR GROCERY LIST AND MEAL PLAN Food waste is a major problem in America. According to Recycle Track Systems (RTS), 80 billion pounds of food (worth $161 billion) is thrown away each year in America. Not only are we wasting money when we don’t use the food we buy, we are contributing to climate change. WWF states that wasted food makes-up for about 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. It also contributes to deforestation and wastes a large amount of water (WWF). How do you curb food waste? Write your shopping list before you go to the grocery store and stick to it. We tend to get distracted at the store and buy food that we don’t need or use. Focus on buying ingredients that can be used in several different meals, so you can use it throughout the week. Another way to prevent food waste is by planning your meals ahead of time. This will help you narrow down what you buy and reduce the amount of food that perishes because you forgot to eat it (I’m looking at you, avocados). In general, cooking at home is more sustainable and cheaper than ordering from restaurants. It’s okay to order from Uber Eats every once in a while, try to keep it to 1-2x a week. This will save money and reduce the waste for the food package and carbon from the car delivery.

SHOP LOCALLY (IF POSSIBLE) It’s great to shop at local grocery stores and farmer markets if you have any nearby. While most farmer markets are closed at the moment, local grocery stores are still open. Not only are you supporting small businesses and local farmers, but it’s more sustainable to shop locally. According to Go Green, you reduce your “food miles” by shopping locally. Local food doesn’t need to be shipped thousands of miles, which creates a much smaller carbon footprint.

It’s not always possible to shop at local markets, so when shopping at a grocery store like Whole Foods or Ralphs, look for produce that is grown nearby. Buying seasonally is often cheaper, so look online to see which fruits and vegetables are in season. Seasonal Food Guide lets you see which produce is in season in your area.

AFFORDABLE AND SUSTAINABLE GROCERIES ITEMS When you’re out at the store, aim to buy foods that are budget and earth friendly. Look for foods that are versatile, have a long shelf life, and are minimally packaged. This includes: • Grains- oatmeal, rice, pasta, wheat, barley, cereal • Beans/Legumes- canned or dry • Frozen fruits and vegetables • Nuts/seeds/nut butters • Dried fruit • Canned vegetables and soups • Frozen fruit and vegetables Plant-based options are also key to sustainability. UCLA Sustain reports that food that is animal sourced uses more water and carbon to produce than plant-based food. You don’t have to be vegetarian or vegan to buy tofu! Try swapping one of your proteins for a plant-based option. Finally, try to avoid excessive packaging. This isn’t always possible, and there are legitimate reasons why you might need to buy a food product with packaging. Look at the products you buy and see if there are any swaps you can make that are similar in price and quality but are either packaged less or use recycled material.

28

GROCERY BAGS For the first time ever, we are being encouraged to not use our reusable shopping bags. The National Institutes of Health reports that the virus can remain stable on surfaces from several hours to days. To reduce the chance of infection, some grocery stores are protecting their employees and staff by either banning or restricting reusable bag use- but there are ways you can work with these restrictions. Some grocery stores are allowing you to bring your grocery bags into the store, as long as you bag the groceries yourself. As I have learned recently, bagging groceries is very difficult, and the baggers don’t receive as much credit as they deserve. If the grocery store doesn’t allow you to bring reusable bags into the store, some stores will place the unbagged grocery items into your cart and then you can place them in bags once you get to your car. If you walk to the store or you don’t want to bag yourself, it’s okay if you have to use plastic or paper bags right now! Look online to see if your grocery store has listed its grocery bag restrictions and do the best you can.

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER AT THE END OF THE DAY IS THAT YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE PERFECT. Sometimes we go over-budget or buy a lot of food with packaging one week- that’s okay! Grocery shopping isn’t supposed to be the most stressful part of your week and it can actually be more enjoyable when you aren’t aimlessly wandering the aisles without any idea on what to buy. Try to plan, make the environmentally conscious choice if you have the option, find what works for you and give yourself a break if you need to spend a little extra on your favorite packaged cookies one week… hey, we are in the middle of a pandemic so it’s okay to treat yourself!

Written by: Esme Park 29

a guide t o CS As Not even quarantine can stop summer from arriving. And along with the much-needed sunshine and warmth comes fresh fruits and veggies. Community Supported Agriculture, or CSAs as they’re better known, are a great way to eat well and cycle money back into your local economy. You don’t have to contribute any labor or time, and most CSAs are highly customizable to better fit your diet and budget.

WHAT WILL I GET IN A CSA? CSAs vary by season and location. A summer CSA in California might offer avocados and lemons, while one in New England would have lettuce and tomatoes. Beyond produce, some CSAs also offer eggs, dairy products, and flowers.

WHAT’S THE COMMITMENT LEVEL? CSAs will let you pick the size of your order and its frequency. This way, you’re only getting what you need. The CSA I use delivers to my office, which is a huge bonus. And in today’s environment, more and more are offering additional pickup locations or contact-free deliveries.

HOW MUCH DO CSAS MEMBERSHIPS COST? Costs depend on what, and how much, you buy. To give you an example, I pay $17.50 for a weekly produce CSA and another $5.50 for eggs charged bi-weekly. Compared to the grocery store, these numbers are definitely higher.

But if you already buy organic or local, your wallet won’t feel much of a change.

CAN I GET A CSA DELIVERY EVEN IF I LIVE IN AN URBAN AREA? Yes! Here in Boston, there are quite a few farms from surrounding areas in the state that offer produce from CSAs to the city. Urban gardening projects are also helping to close some of the gaps between city dwellers and fresh, local produce.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF BUYING LOCAL FROM A CSA? Unlike grocery stores, CSAs don’t rely on shipping cross-country to get their inventory. That means they have less of a carbon footprint and deliver fresh, in-season produce. For anyone who has ever had a strawberry in the middle of December, you’ve experienced the negative effects of large-scale agriculture.

Food just doesn’t taste as good out of its season! CSAs on the other hand, offer you an opportunity to eat with the seasons, getting food when and where it naturally occurs.

HOW IS A CSA DIFFERENT FROM IMPERFECT PRODUCE? A friend of mine recently wrote a great article on this but for the purposes of keeping this short and sweet, the essential difference between a CSA and imperfect produce is that CSAs are grown slow-scale and locally while imperfect produce takes conventional produce that would otherwise be thrown out and resells it at a discount.

WHY NOW? If you’re financially able, supporting your local CSAs can be a great way to cut back on the transportation of goods across state lines. In the midst of a pandemic, the less unnecessary back and forth, the fewer people will need to be exposed to potential hazards. Plus, by funneling money back into businesses in your area, your patronage can be the difference between them making it through this challenging time or going out of business.

Written by: Alexis Powell 30

it’s

NAVIGATING THE WORLD

MEET CARA OF CHICKPEA MAGAZINE

31

me et Cara o f Chic kpea Magaz i n e “I started with a blog documenting my process of going vegan in 2010 called Hipsterfood - it was more like how Instagram is now, where it was daily photos (three times daily, actually) with a couple paragraphs’ worth of captions. Our following grew pretty quickly so the posts got longer and more involved. I found that I really didn’t like blogging - it was too fast-paced and critical for my taste. I also wanted to somehow share our readership with our fellow bloggers, too, because I thought they were amazing but weren’t getting enough exposure. I drew on my love of print, my experience in creating in real life, and my urge to make something more concrete than a blog. So me and my boyfriend started Chickpea in fall of 2011 using Kickstarter,”

32

Q&A

w i th i s erifands cript

W h at i s th e mean in g b ehin d th e nam e ?

Because our blog name was so divisive, I wanted something that would produce less annoying messages on a daily basis. Chickpeas have been a staple protein in our diets since we went vegan, and I just think it’s a cute name.

Wa s i t d i f f i cu lt at first to gain a wide audie nc e ?

Whenever people ask me “business” advice, this is actually what I tell them is most important up front, and something that helped us immensely: have an audience before you start anything serious. I started the blog with no expectations, just for fun, and it gained us an audience. I was posting multiple times a day, submitting to aggregate recipe websites (like Food Gawker), and being really active on our platform, tumblr. It was my goal to get on the trending page every day. It wasn’t “difficult” because I didn’t care what the outcome would be, really. It’s more difficult now, because I care a lot, and social media is SO packed with food accounts.

When we started the magazine, though, I think we had over 30,000 followers, so I felt comfortable starting something small. The thing about audience, though, is that it doesn’t always equal paying customers - we have 250,000 followers there now but that doesn’t mean we’re making millions. Far from it, haha. So I’m not TOO focused on growing our audience, because I know from experience it doesn’t mean more success. I heard somewhere a great analogy - trying to get more followers every day is like standing by the door inviting more and more people into your dinner party, but you’re so busy doing that you never get around to serving the food. (The food being, something substantial that will help them or entertain them, that will potentially make you a living).

D o yo u th i nk it’s d ifficult reaching a wide audie nc e now that m ost pe opl e p re f e r to ta ke in content q u ick ly rathe r than sit down and re ad an artic le?

I don’t think it’s hard to get an audience - it’s more difficult for me to relate to people who live like that, I guess. I don’t know how to actually connect with people who live their lives entirely online. I’m already an anxious person and social media just magnifies it. I find cooking from recipes on Instagram to be maddeningly stupid, personally.

It’s just a lot of spying tech interfaces, advertising (whether from Instagram or the influencer), and garbage to wade through to get a granule of useful information. (It’s a lot like mainstream magazines, when put like that, haha.)

I use Instagram to get inspiration for my Animal Crossing town, but when I want to relax and be inspired to cook, I flip through a cookbook, magazine, or book. There’s something special and decompressing about getting offline, and even off devices entirely. But it’s not even a question of digital versus print, it’s more about the difference in lifestyle between scrolling for hours & not remembering any of it the next day, or lighting a candle, putting on music, and cooking from a beautifully printed, well-considered cookbook. If people don’t want that, I guess it’ll be harder and harder to reach them.

Wh at’s yo u r favorite p art ab ou t having your own m agaz ine ?

“I love getting to solve my life’s problems (and our readers’) and share my findings in a beautiful way. I love creating the work and the challenge of creation, and getting to mix so many of my skills into one object. I love flipping through old issues and remember exactly what I was watching when I lettered that article, or how that one photoshoot made me slog through the farmer’s market in 100°F weather just to get a stack of raspberry crates. It’s kind of like a structured way of learning new things all the time. That can be exhausting, but it’s very rewarding.

How d o e s you r magazin e stand out f rom othe rs?

Sometimes I think “magazine” is a misnomer - we don’t share products, or news, or ads, which I feel like defines most magazines. Our content is meant to be evergreen, so it’ll be helpful even 10 years from now. We’re not even on a regular schedule any more - I care more about creating something with longevity than with filling a newsstand just because. We’re very anti-consumerist, “wellness”-phobic, and our design is more minimal and considered.

33

“The quarantine has certainly affected us - I can’t finish the issue I was working on, we can’t print, and we can’t ship our bulk order like we normally would. But I came out with a free best-of digital issue called Staying In, which is all about home, self-care, and comfort food cooking. I’m in the beginning stages of writing another digital issue about what we’re doing while stuck inside, and getting a vision together around making issues specifically designed to be read on your phone. It’s been hard to plan anything during this, but I really just want to make something that will help others during this weird time,”

- Cara

34

it’s

WHAT WE WEAR

THRIFTING INSPIRATION WITH TAM CAN COVID-19 SLOW FAST FASHION? SUSTAINABLE FABRICS AND HOW TO CARE FOR THEM JEWELRY BRANDS THAT GIVE BACK

35

thrifting inspiration with Tam

36

Q&A

W h at g o t yo u into secon d h an d shop/ thrifting?

I grew up doing tons of crafts and finding new ways to repurposing old things with my mom. It was our way of bonding--we loved to create and recreate. I first started thrifting when I was about 12 or 13 years old and loved the hunt of thinking about how to reimagine or give new life to objects and clothes.

Each piece has a story. Whenever I find something, I like to envision what the previous owner of the item was like and how I can repurpose it to put my own twist on it. It’s such a fun process for me as a creative person. I started thrifting as a way to imagine and create, but over time it grew into a love of understanding the positive impact of purchasing things second hand and the ethics behind it.

D e sc ri b e yo u r sty le!

I think I’m the only person that may think this way about my style, but I don’t really think I have a specific style. I wear what I like and based on my mood! Somedays that might mean a ruffled blouse and high waisted jeans, other days it might mean an oversized t-shirt and my air max’s. I like a little bit of everything. The great thing about thrifting is that there’s so much variety to choose from. It allows you to explore every kind of style and that’s something that I really appreciate about it. Recently, I’ve been loving mixing old vintage pieces with more modern accessories. I definitely will say that I go through color phases quite often, and right now, I’m very obsessed with wearing green no matter the day.

W h at’s th e p rocess like of fin d ing thrifte d ge m s?

When I thrift, I usually go in with the mindset that I might not find anything and that’s ok! I have a “list” of things I’d like to find in the back of my mind, but I always go in open to all kinds of things. Having patience and allowing time are things I’ve learned to practice whenever I thrift. Doing this has helped me take a step back and ask myself if a specific piece I pick up is something that I genuinely like and would wear. The practically or “everyday wear” of pieces doesn’t matter to me too much, as I like to play around with my style and wear what makes me feel good. I would say that my overall process is being open to finding everything and going in without expectations. Currently, I’ve been starting at the women’s tops because that’s what I’m lacking in my wardrobe right now, but I don’t limit myself to just that section.

Over half the bottoms I own are actually from the men’s section, and a lot of my sweaters and tops too! I go thrifting maybe about 2 or 3 times a month.

D o yo u p ri o ritize thriftin g over buying f rom e thic al and sustainable brands ?

Yes, I do prioritize thrifting over ethical and sustainable brands, mostly because I’m a college student and don’t have a large income right now. I also have a lot of clothes that I still need to wear, so I’m trying to focus more on giving more love to the items I already own as opposed to purchasing new ones. I have been transitioning to sustainable and ethical products for things related to skincare and makeup. In the future, I’d really love to support these brands more for clothing.

H ow d o yo u u se you r accou nt to prom ote thrifting/ se c ondhand shopping?

My account, therapythirft was created for fun and to show that it’s 100% possible to thrift head to toe looks. Oftentimes people don’t think that they can find basics or quality pieces, but you definitely can!

I want to share with everyone my love for second-hand clothing, and why they can learn to love it too.

While it has taken me a couple of years to curate an almost all second-hand wardrobe, it’s worth it and such a wonderfully fun process.

37

“These are my most recent finds.

The top, jacket, jeans, and belt were purchases I made earlier this year with the jacket being from Unique in Falls Church, Virginia, the top and belt from goodwill, and jeans from Beacon’s Closet in New York. This outfit is something that is more “everyday” than my usual, but still a little spruced up with the addition of the gold belt. That belt is my favorite belt right now.

I can’t stop wearing it,”

38

“My absolute FAVORITE pair of pants to date. I love finding pants at the thrift store—I have lilac ones, hot pink ones, corduroy ones, and so many more funky ones. I found these gems at a small vintage shop in Harrisonburg, Virginia and I think I screamed when I saw them. I paired them with a blouse from goodwill and a pair of second-hand shoes I found from Darling, a boutique in Charlottesville, Virginia. I’m obsessed with mixing patterns and textures,”

39

“My most worn items! I own a lot of blouses, but this one is definitely my most worn. I just love the material and how fun it is.

The jeans, bag, and belt are also thrifted! These pieces are a bit older so I don’t quite remember where I got them, but they are good ones,”

40

“I’m loving this lightweight jacket a lot of spring. It’s also an older find, but I didn’t really wear it until now! I usually try to keep my wardrobe small so I go through and donate my clothes every once in a while, but I’m so happy that I kept this. It can be styled for day and night and makes me feel great whenever I wear it. I’ve also worn it with jeans, an acid dyed shirt, and tennis shoes. Such a versatile piece that I think I’ll be keeping for a bit,”

41

“I need to wear this more because it’s such a great find!

This dress is actually a couple sizes larger than my usual, but I loved it so much I had to pick it up. I didn’t have a sewing machine or anything to make it fit, so I used a hair tie to cinch in the waist. I’ve also styled it with a belt before and it works the same. This vintage gem was one I found at goodwill about two years ago. I’ve only worn it twice and I’m itching to wear it again sometime soon,”

42

“ Second hand fashion has helped me not only to find my personal style but also to learn about sustainable and ethical practices! It’s something that I hold very close to me because thrifting has been my longest and most favorite creative outlet.

To me, its incredibly important in my life as someone who loves styling clothes, feeling good in them, and being conscious about the effects of purchasing secondhand clothing,”

- tam 43

c a n C OV I D -1 9 slow f ast- f ashio n?

The world has been significantly impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic. Businesses have shut their doors, public areas have been closed off, and people have been forced to stay home. As the world has slowed down during this pandemic, it raises one question: will Covid-19 be able to slow fast fashion?

In the beginning of April, GQ stated that the virus has had a “far from positive” impact on fast fashion, as 1,025 factories reported to cancel 864.17 million units of work orders, worth $2.81 billion, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

The cancellations come from brands and retailers experiencing lack of orders placed due to millions being furloughed or losing their jobs since the pandemic started. Though it sounds like that would be the turning point for retailers that rely on rapidly produced garments, author of Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes Dana Thomas thinks otherwise.

“We may not see the end of fast fashion,” Thomas told GQ in an interview. “What I think you’re going to see is that it’s the big chains that survive. It’s going to be smaller companies, or ones that were already teetering, that were putting into place turnaround plans…that won’t survive.”

She predicts those larger brands that have cancelled orders are still going to have a large inventory to sell, and after that inventory is gone, they’ll go back to relying on mass production through factories in order to get new clothing fast.

Though fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara rely heavily on fashion week for trends to copy, Thomas believes that won’t stop them from continuing to produce like usual. “They’re going to just keep recycling stuff. They kind of tweak things all the time anyway. They have something in red? They make it in blue,” she told GQ. So will Covid-19 be able to slow fast fashion after the pandemic is over? The answer is that it’s really up to us. Fashion companies that were in good shape before this pandemic will likely recover, but those that were already struggling will find it more difficult.

As consumers, we can use this time to put the planet and people first. We don’t know what lies ahead for the fashion world, but we can start making more educated and thoughtful purchases.

This global problem could prompt brands to reevaluate their relationships with suppliers, which hopefully will have sustainability built into it. It’s also a great time for consumers to improve their relationship with fashion, and practice a “less is more” conscious minimalist lifestyle.

Written by: Veronice LeMaster | i veroniaalemaster 44

su st a in a b le fa brics and how to care f or the m If you’re on the look-out to buy fabrics for your latest sewing project or trying to be more cognisant of what your clothing is made of when purchasing new items, here is some helpful information on two of my favourite sustainable fabrics as well as information on how to care for each of them.

HEMP Hemp as a sustainable fabric is made from the fibers of cannabis sativa. Cannabis sativa first evolved in early civilizations in Eastern Asia before spreading to other parts of the world. The fibers from the cannabis sativa plant have also been utilized in making products such as canvas and rope (Simplifi Fabric).

Hemp is a herbaceous plant that is considered highly sustainable to both grow and wear. It is a pest-resistant, highyield, and fast-growing crop that does not require the use of harmful pesticides or herbicides. Hemp is produced in large amounts due to the plant’s ability to grow sizable numbers of fibre per acre. The plant also helps to control erosion within the soil bed due to its strong root system and is a natural renewable resource (Simplifi Fabric).

Hemp creates a strong, soft, and durable fabric that is hypoallergenic. Over time as you wash hemp fabric, the material becomes softer and softer. Hemp is also a go-to fabric for clothing with its classic look and lightweight feel, especially during hot and humid weather (Simplifi Fabric).

CARE GUIDELINES When caring for your hemp fabric, ensure that you wash it in cold water. Depending on the colour of your hemp material, it is also recommended that it be washed in a separate laundry load from other items. Do not put hemp fabric in the dryer. Allow for your material to dry in an airy spot. Over time, your hemp clothing may wrinkle. Give your clothing the time to hang in an airy spot or lightly iron on low heat to remove any wrinkles (Simplifi Fabric).

ORGANIC COTTON Cotton, also known as gossypium hirsutum, is indigenous to the Indus Valley, known today as Pakistan, as well as parts of India and Africa. Cotton fabric or clothing is made from the fibrous seeds of the cotton plant (Eden project, 2017). The fluffy seeds are spun into a cotton fibre, then yarn, which gets woven into a fabric, finished, and dyed (Soil Association). The growing, cultivation, and use of cotton spread widely around the world from Asia to the Americas. It was during the rise of the first Industrial Revolution when the production, manufacturing, and cultivation of cotton became highly mechanized. With the rise in the mechanization of cotton production, the use of cotton became increasingly popular in the creation of fabric, clothing, and other products. At the same time, the dehumanising west African slave trade was occurring in which slave labor was also used to increase production. The use of toxic chemicals such as herbicides and pesticides were also introduced to aid in the growing and cultivation of the crop (Eden project, 2017).

Within the context of the cotton industry, the growing and use of organic cotton is significant. Cotton is “one of the most widely grown crops in the world” (Organic Cotton Plus), so when conventionally grown, has a large negative impact on the environment and the people working within the cotton industry. Conventionally grown cotton promotes a system of monoculture production in which one crop is grown on the soil at a time. This practice does not promote healthy soil development and over time, diminishes major stores of nutrients in the soil necessary for crop growth. Conventionally grown cotton also utilizes harmful methods that include the application of toxic pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, and synthetic fertilizers on the crops and in the soil. Farmers and workers within the conventional system are often tied to exploitative genetically modified (GM) seed corporations which facilitate unsafe and unhealthy farming practices.

45

ORGANIC COTTON (CONT...)

The organic cotton movement is beginning to lead the industry away from harmful growing practices and instead, towards a movement of producing cotton that does not come at the cost of the environment or the health and well-being of those working within the industry (Organic Cotton Plus). Organic cotton production methods and processes do not use toxic pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides to aid in the growth of the plants and instead use insects and weed suppressing crops to create healthy interactions, moving away from a system of monoculture production. Organic cotton seeds are grown in soil that contains natural organic matter, such as compost, free from synthetic external inputs. Organic cotton methods also utilize rain-fed water systems to prevent exploitative water extraction processes that put pressure on local water supplies in rural farming communities (Organic Cotton Plus).

More reasons to consider searching for organic cotton materials in your next fabric or clothing purchase is because the organic cotton movement aids in mitigating the effects of climate change by fostering healthy soil development and supporting local farmers in their freedom from genetically modified (GM) seed corporations that are highly exploitative (Soil Association). As a fabric, organic cotton is light and breathable for hot and humid days, classic looking, and comfortable.

CARE GUIDELINES Always follow the care guidelines outlined on each specific cotton garment or fabric. In general, cotton should be washed on a cold cycle and hung up to dry. Iron out wrinkles on cotton lightly and on low heat. Cotton fabrics or clothing should not be put in the dryer.

A NOTE ON SUSTAINABLE DYES FOR CLOTHING It is also important to consider the dyes and dying process that is utilized when purchasing colourful hemp or organic cotton fabric or clothing. Look for fabrics or clothing that have been dyed naturally with the use of flower petals or vegetables such as beets or berries.

MORE TO CONSIDER More sustainable fabrics that I look for when buying new clothing or fabrics are recycled polyester, made from recycled plastic water bottles, as well as rayon or lyocell, which is a fabric made from the cellulose of wood.

• • •

https://bit.ly/3fFnbfb https://bit.ly/2WWG3gW https://bit.ly/2LrTeRI

• •

https://bit.ly/2Z1aRjw https://bit.ly/2WspeeJ

Written by: Micaela Yawney 46

j ewe lry b ra nd s that give back We rounded up some of our favorite jewelry brands that match our values. By purchasing from one of these brands, you are helping support fair wages, ethical causes, and thoughtful sourcing.

FIRE WITHIN JEWELRY Courtney launched Fire Within Jewelry in 2018 from her home in Ontario Canada. While working as a full-time elementary school teacher, she found an internal flame drawing her toward the healing energies of gemstones. Around the same time, she was introduced to the devastating state of our rainforests. Courtney decided to unite her passions to help the rainforest and create wonderful jewelry out of gemstones that would help heal. Hence, Fire Within Jewelry was created.

Each bracelet is homemade from beautiful, genuine gemstones of a variety of colors and healing capabilities. A portion of each sale is donated directly to the Rainforest Trust, a nonprofit organization that supports rainforest conservation. These endangered environments are home to millions of plant and animal species that play a critical role in regulating our planet’s climate. Fire Within Jewelry’s contributions go towards supporting the protection and reforestation of these habitats.

Discover more about Fire Within Jewelry at: IG: @firewithin.jewelry FB: Fire Within Jewelry Email: firewithin.jewelry@gmail.com

ABLE Able’s jewelry is handmade in Nashville, Tennessee, and “they invest in, train, and educate women so they can earn a living, break the cycle of poverty, and thrive.” They even offer personalized jewelry, adding a monogrammed phrase at no extra charge.

PURPOSE Their jewelry is handcrafted by women who have escaped human trafficking. They have affordable prices and 100% of proceeds go to their non-profit, International Sanctuary, which provides artisans with fair wages, holistic care, and education.

31BITS It was created to help give skilled artisans dignified job opportunities, giving them access to the global market. They have different types of styles at different price ranges.

Supporting one of these companies means you’re ensuring respect for the artisans creating your jewelry, as well as buying a high quality piece that will last for years to come.

Written by: Jen Chavarria & Brie LaPrell 47

it’s

BEING IN GOOD HEALTH

AVOID OVERPRICED CONVENIENT SNACKS STEPHANIE BUTTERMORE’S “ALL-IN” JOURNEY 10 JOURNAL PROMPTS TO BRING PEACE

48

avoi d ove r p r ice d convenie nt snacks Social media really has a strong hold on its consumers. Something can be promoted one day, and the next, that product just HAS to be had in order for someone to be considered healthy. These must-have foods come in constant waves. Lately you can’t scroll on social media for more than two minutes without seeing a promotion for some type of food product that is branded to be optimal for one’s health. In reality, they are just average foods that are valueadded because they are made for on-the-go-snacking. With a little effort, you can avoid these extra costs and make your own at home. These products aren’t the untapped source of wellness, they are merely portrayed to be that way.

The companies that sell these products promote the misconception that healthy eating is expensive. With some clever branding and marketing, they inflate the price of their product - and it’s working. The convenience they provide can easily be avoided by planning ahead and prepping. I’m going to walk you through some of my favorite, and inexpensive, healthy snack ideas!

A popular protein bar, GoMacro bar, averages 10g of protein, 11g of sugar, and 37g of carbs per bar. The simple and cheap snack of a hard-boiled egg with a cheese stick has about 11.3g of protein, less than 1g of sugar, and about 2g of carbs combined. For about $3, you can have a GoMacro bar or for about $.75 you could have the egg and cheese. Although the latter may not be an optimal post-workout snack due to its lack of carbohydrates, this simple comparison still shows that you can obtain enough protein without having to consume overpriced brand name foods. Although sometimes the convenience is worth the price, you can avoid the high-costs of branded health foods by preparing your own snacks and meals. Another benefit of prepping your own foods is that you can personalize it to any flavor you prefer, and you know exactly what ingredients you are consuming. Here are some simple ideas to consider: 1. Hard Boiled Eggs: Hard boil 6 eggs ahead of time so you don’t have to boil them every time you are craving them, and you can avoid the hefty price of convenience.

2. An Apple and Peanut Butter: Apples are easy to buy and stay fresh for around one to two months in the fridge. Instead of overpaying for pre-portioned peanut butter snacks, you can put a scoop of peanut butter you already have into a reusable container. Pair them together and you are on your way to a satisfying, healthy, and inexpensive snack!

3. Granola Bars: Making homemade granola bars are actually a lot easier than you would think. With a simple online search, you can find hundreds of recipes. Make a batch at the beginning of the week so you can grab one on your way out the door every morning! Plus, you can customize them to whatever flavor you enjoy!

4. Oats: Having personal microwavable oatmeal cups may seem convenient but paying upwards of $3 for a single serving is a bit ridiculous if you ask me. You can portion out what you need into a microwave-safe container ahead of time from the oats you purchase in bulk. That way, when you are in a rush, you can grab the cup instead.

5. Hummus: If you own a food processor - or have a generous friend that will let you borrow theirs - you can make your own hummus. A pre-made container is easy to grab, but whipping up your own batch can make double at half the price. By planning ahead, you’ll have a stash to snack on without having to fork over everything in your wallet to health brands.

By doing some simple research, you can educate yourself on what you should be looking for when doing your grocery shopping and prepping. If you can’t seem to find success, consider seeing a registered dietician. They can teach you so much, and may even walk you through the grocery store to show you some options!

Written by: Lauren Klein | i piece.of.lulu 49

STEPHANIE BUTTERMORE’S “ALL-IN” JOURNEY: FINDING HAPPINESS AND SATIETY AMONGST FITNESS INFLUENCER

Written by: Hannah Achtert | i itshannahitshannah 50

St e p h a n i e B utte rm ore’s “ a ll-i n” journey Stephanie Buttermore (@stephanie_buttermore on instagram) is a 29 year old fitness influencer, youtuber, PhDgraduate, and a breath of fresh air. Humor and authenticity meet vulnerability and optimism in every single piece of content she shares with her audience of 521,000 instagram followers Her popularity has been increasing with her latest “All-In” series.

“All-In” is Buttermore’s approach to finally tackling what she refers to as her “insatiable hunger,” by eating until satiety at every meal. In the past, she has always been open with viewers about her frustration at never being truly satisfied, knocking out 10,000 calories in a single cheat day on her youtube channel; However, her fitness influencer career required her, or so she thought, to strive to make her body fat percentage the lowest as possible and show off the muscles she worked so hard for. In trying to satisfy her audience, she wasn’t satisfying herself, and the main goal of this “all-in” approach is to feel as though she is once again strong and satisfied when it came to meals; eating whatever she wanted and as much of it as it took to satiate her.

In addition to this, she’s been transparent with her experience with amenorrhea (the loss of a female’s period), constant shivers, fatigue and more. In a world that’s constantly focused on losing weight, in a niche of social media dedicated to chiseling your body to perfection, Buttermore goes against the grain in allowing herself to gain weight if it means that she will be a more “holistically” healthy version of herself in the long run. Because being Instagram healthy and individually healthy are completely different things.

Buttermore follows the advice from a colleague that specializes in amenorrhea to attempt this “All-In” approach in hopes of eventually not needing around 5000+ calories a day to feel satiated and finding her true setpoint weight: between her “All-In’ weight and her extremely trim weight.

Gaining 40 pounds from the calorie surplus was uncomfortable for Buttermore and put her outside of her comfort zone, living her entire life online and in the fitness community; yet, her definition of health and wellness has changed dramatically. Almost a year has passed since she began her journey in June of 2019, and her cravings have tapered, her weight has understandably increased and decreased, she feels satisfied after meals and has gone from, “what I thought health & fitness was supposed to ‘look’ like to actually ‘feeling’ healthy.” (Instagram Post 4/20/20) Buttermore’s journey through weight gain, loss, and regain is emotional, raw, and makes us all take a closer look at people that we thought were the standard for health. In navigating the ups and downs of weight gain in a world where it is frowned upon by society, she battles with comments from loved ones and fans alike telling her that this isn’t right. Yet this journey has also admittedly given her a newfound confidence in her curvier figure and in science as well, seeing as all along she knew this would fix her problems but never felt like it would be acceptable in her niche and was afraid of the reaction from her audience and fitness community.

The intimacy she forms with her followers in sharing her most vulnerable moments and thoughts on this journey has formed a strong support system amongst them, her platform now shifting from an only science-backed fitness and nutrition platform to one of body positivity and mental health advocacy as well as a place for people to feel like they’re accepted regardless of size - because health looks different on everyone.

Going forward, Buttermore is a beacon of hope for individuals struggling with body image and becoming more comfortable with your body at whatever size it is meant to be for you to feel your best. We can learn from her bravery of gaining weight shamelessly in a world that shames you for it that it is up to us to know what is right for our bodies - and no other influencer or individual can tell us otherwise.

Written by: Lillian Kraus | i lilysnursingdiary 51

1 0 j ou r n a l p ro m pts to bring peace There are so many benefits to journaling, especially now when times are crazy and uncertain with the coronavirus outbreak.

A journaling practice can bring peace, calm, and a sense of grounding to an otherwise hectic life and environment. Daily journaling is a great routine to establish.

Some of the benefits of journaling include focusing on your goals, organizing your thoughts, checking in with your mental health, strengthening your writing skills, encouraging self-reflection, and boosting creativity. You don’t need a fancy journal to get started...a piece of paper and a pen is all you need!

Here are some journal prompts to bring peace and guide your journaling practice. I encourage you to think about how these prompts can help you. Find one you like, and get writing!

1 2 3 4 5

In a month from now, I want to be able to…

Ex: strengthen my mindfulness practice through meditation.

I acknowledge and appreciate that I am good at…

Ex: being a compassionate and caring friend.

In the future, when I make mistakes, I will reduce my frustration by…

Ex: telling myself that mistakes are not the end of the world. What can I learn from this mistake?

Three things I’m grateful for at the current moment are…

Ex: the food on my table, my health, and the roof over my head.

Five things I can see are...Four things I can feel are...Three things I can hear are…Two things I can smell are...One thing I can taste is…

Ex: See: my laptop, my room, my coffee cup, my dog, and my phone.

Feel: my sweater on my skin, my slippers on my feet, the warmth of my coffee mug Hear: the rain outside, the podcast I’m listening to, and the keys clicking on my laptop.

Smell: the coffee I’m drinking and the rain.

Taste: the coffee I’m drinking.

6 7 8 9 10

Some things I’ve been working on getting better at are…

Ex: listening to others, expanding my mindfulness, and giving myself grace.

Today, I accomplished things, regardless of if they are big or small.

Ex: I got out of bed, made myself nourishing meals, completed some tasks, and took time for myself.

As I sit here, I breathe and listen to my body. My body is telling me....I feel…

Ex: My body is telling me that it is at peace, but a little tense. I feel strong and calm.

Today’s affirmations are…

Ex: I am strong. I am worthy. I am capable of anything. I am open to possibilities.

My absolute dream day would be…

Ex: waking up to a steaming pot of strong coffee, having a big brunch, taking a hike, reading, doing some yoga, listening to a podcast, getting takeout for dinner, and watching my favorite movie.

Written by: Gabrielle Guzdek | i honestly_gabby 52

it’s

WHERE WE GO

A TRAVEL ROMANCE

53

A TRAVEL ROMANCE

54

I went on my biggest solo trip to Latin America and it was life changing-- went on this trip with little plans and a goal to find myself and maybe find love in the back of my mind. I mean, I didn’t go on this trip to find a travel prince charming or to start a whirlwind of romance. I’m not saying that I would have turned down the idea but I wasn’t constantly seeking to find love. But some people are really destined to meet each other. I’ve always been a big believer that there are no coincidences in life. I guess that means I believe in fate, destiny and that everything happens for a reason including why we meet people at a certain time.

So after two months of “rough-ing it up”, I’ve made it down south of Peru. At this point, I was physically and mentally drained. I really didn’t know where to go next and I hadn’t made any friends because I had been staying at an airbnb alone since I arrived in Peru. So I decided to go on tinder and I ended up matching with this guy from the Netherlands, then he invited me to take the bus with him to Arequipa and we travelled together for a day (platonically) and parted ways the next day. The universe never brings people into your life who are not meant to be there and I know that I was meant to travel with him because two days later I was at the right place at the right time, meeting the love of my life. What if I missed meeting the love of my life if it wasn’t for him?

Two days and another city (Huacachina) later, I met my soulmate Jackson in my dorm at a hostel just the day before I was leaving to go to the next destination. I was packing my bags and was planning to call it an early night because I got a little too drunk the night of and ended up injuring my foot. Jackson had just come into the room and we started talking then he asked me if I wanted to go for dinner, I said yes because I thought he was really cute. Just when we were walking out of the hostel to get dinner we ran into his friend “M” then Jackson invited him to go to dinner with us. “M” was the reason why Jackson was in Huacachina at the same time as I was. Right place at the right time.

55

When we were all walking to the restaurant, Jackson even offered to give me a piggyback ride to the restaurant because I could barely walk and I was limping really bad. I thought he was cute and it seemed like he was nice too!

After dinner, Jackson and I ended up drinking beers at the bar and I was really having a good time with him. He was my ideal man. He was curious, adventurous, full of new ideas and I’ve always wanted a man that has travelling as a high priority. We kissed and it felt like coming home. Then he told me that he wished we had more time together and I asked him if he wanted to go with me to Paracas, I told him that I will be there for 3 days. The next day we were off to our adventure of a lifetime, little did I know I was starting that whirlwind of romance.

On the last day in Paracas, we were about to separate and get on with our lives. Jackson was about to leave to go to his next destination. I had no idea where to go or what to do next. We were laying in bed, cuddling and staring at each other’s eyes minutes before he left our hotel room. Neither of us wanted to say goodbye. I didn’t want to say goodbye yet. I mean, I had the best time of my life with him in the past 3 days and I have never really emotionally connected with anyone like I did with him. He was everything I could ever want or needed in my life. So I told him “what if I come with you?” then he said “Good because I didn’t want to let go of this yet.” And the next thing I know we were travelling together in different cities in Peru until I had to head back home and he continued travelling in Latin America.

Traveling speeded up our relationship. We dated, we fell in love and we parted ways all in a matter of days. Now we’re in a long distance relationship. I live in Canada and he lives in the USA. It hasn’t been easy because both of our borders are currently closed but I’m a big believer of “Que sera, sera.” If it’s meant to be, it will be. I know we’re meant to be together, and it will work. It’s going to be challenging and hard but we’re in love and our love for travel is growing and for one another. I can’t wait to be able to explore the world with him again.

- Daniela i trave lsi zeb um

56

thank

the it’s team EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jen Chavarria COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER Hannah Schewtschenko CONTENT OPTIMIZATION OFFICER Brie LaPrell SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Kaitlyn Parenteau OUTREACH COORDINATOR Lais Santoro

COPY EDITORS Madeleine Clemens Mathilda Nassar GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Laura Mays Rayanne Silva Ally Petris EDITORS Alexis Krcelic Georgia Fish Nadine Nassar CONTENT CREATOR Tam Hoang

WRITERS Hannah Achtert Nicole Coppage Taylor Deitrick Kayla Disibio Maddi Grossman Gabby Guzdek Lillian Kraus Lauren Klein Shay McCoy Aayesha Poudel Esme Park Gaia Rattazzi Meaghan Thompson Micaela Yawney

57

want to join the team?

We’re adding a few new positions as we see our team grow!

We’re really want to build up our core team, on a volunteer basis :) You’ll get loads of experience in areas such as design, writing, and planning.

Keep reading to find out more about the positions opened!

58

editors: We are looking for individuals to help lead our team of writers in these sections: Sustainability, Beauty, Adulting, and Travel. You’ll help come up with content, assist your team in writing, make sure articles are turned in on time, and overall ensure high quality work.

Past experience in writing required. This can be blogging, school courses, professional writing, etc.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

59

graphic designers: We are looking for individuals to help create graphics for our social media accounts, website, and magazine. You’ll help create engaging content, work on pages in the magazine, and assist in other design projects as needed.

Past experience required.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

60

copy editors: We are looking for individuals to help read through and edit our articles. You’ll check for grammatical/ spelling errors, make sure the article reads smoothly, and overall ensure high quality work.

Past experience required.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

61

outreach coordinators: We are looking for individuals to assist in finding unique features. You’ll reach out to potential features and work with team leaders to reach out to those that fit with our values.

No past experience required.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

62

contributing writers: We are looking for individuals to help write articles for it’s. You’ll be assigned to a team and work closely with the team leader to write high quality articles.

No past experience required. As long as you’re passionate about something, we’re happy to have you on the team To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

63

seek flourish bloom

64