it's | august

it’s AU G U ST 2020

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letter from the editor

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land acknowledgement

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it’s important

18-30

it’s our home

31-40

it’s what helps us glow

41-48

it’s what we wear

49-57

it’s being in good health

58-63

wanna join the team?

table of contents 2

the August issue of it’s! I hope you’re just as excited as we are. We have spent the last few months growing our team and community, and with our last round of applicants, we almost doubled in size.

We are currently working hard to ensure we are providing quality informative content, whether that’s through our articles or social media features. it’s is meant to be a space for you to learn about something or someone new, so we want to make sure we continue to share amazing brands, people, and groups with you.

We have a lot of new things coming up, and this issue is a taste of what’s coming. Since our team is bigger, we are able to work more on video content and design content. We are also able to reach out to a variety of people, giving you a variety of content. Everyone on this team is so passionate about it’s, and we’re excited to share this space with you.

This issue is one of my favorites, because the articles are so thought-provoking and educational. We wanted to make sure you had the chance to learn something new, and our writers worked hard to accomplish.

So thank you for deciding to purchase our issue this month. We understand how difficult these times are, so this means so much that you are wanting to support our team.

We hope you enjoy our August issue. Happy reading!

a i r r a v a h C - Jen Edi tor-I n -Ch i e f

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Land Acknowledgement it’s magazine was created to be an inclusive, informative, and collaborative space that educates others on important topics, driven by our passion for the planet and the people. It’s important to acknowledge the place where it’s was created. it’s magazine llc was founded in Northwest Indiana. We acknowledge that these lands are the traditional territories where the Bodéwadmiakiwen (Potawatomi) peoples have resided since time memorial, as well as the Kiikaapoi (Kickapoo), Peoria, Miami, and Očeti Šakówin. The purpose of this statement is to show respect for Indigenous people and recognize their enduring relationship to this land. We recognize that the Indigenous people are the original stewards of this land and that their removal, erasure, and disruption from their lands has caused irreparable cultural and physical damage. We hope this document will serve as an ongoing reminder that Indigenous peoples historically have been made to be erased; this document’s purpose is to be a live piece of history to change as we evolve.

To provide some history, this was a culturally important area for numerous Indigenous people. The most important Indian trail running through Dyer was the Old Sauk Trail. Today it’s the old Lincoln Highway that mainly follows this Indian trail. The Potawatomi Trail, coming into the county from the northeast, reached an important terminal at Lake Station (East Gary) where the Potawatomi had workshops, dancing floors, and burial grounds. Here the trail separated into two branches, one branch running between the south shore of the Lake and the Grand Calumet River to Fort Dearborn (Chicago), the other running south to Liverpool and then through Schererville and Dyer.

The Treaty of Tippecanoe on October 26, 1832 extinguished their land for white settlement. The United States had already purchased the Miami claim to the region in a previous treaty, and the Potawatomi were the only natives who still held a claim in the region. As settlers, we have an ongoing duty to uphold and maintain our end of treaties signed with Indigenous peoples.

“Today a few trail marks, Indian relics, and place names are all that remain in the Calumet Region of the original “People of the Place of Fire.”

The it’s team is an international team, but the majority of us currently reside in the U.S. We acknowledge the opportunities we have had throughout the various Indigenous peoples territories across the U.S. We realize that while the white settlers gained new land, resources, and opportunities, the Potawatomi lost more than that. We acknowledge the ongoing struggles Indigneous peoples face including, but not limited to access to land, clean water, and health, as well as losing new opportunities, their traditions, and their identities. We further acknowledge the history of enslaving Black and Brown folx and that much of the U.S. was built on the backs of these peoples.

Especially during a global pandemic, it has been clear the disproportionate impact on Black and Indigenous communities across the U.S..

With this, we must work to unlearn and relearn. To be able to learn about the injustice these communities face instead of experiencing it is a privilege, and the work doesn’t stop there. We must advocate for changes that heal past wrongs as well as invest, protect, and preserve their communities.

“Land acknowledgements do not exist in a past tense, or historical context: colonialism is a current ongoing process, and we need to build our mindfulness of our present participation.”

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IMPORTANT

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W hy La n d Ac k now led ge m ents a re I m portant Before I begin, I would like to point out that I identify as a woman of color, but am not Indigenous. I am writing from the point of view of a settler. I currently occupy and live on Nanrantsouak land, the unceded and traditional territory of the Abenaki, whose people are part of the Wabanaki Confederacy. I acknowledge the fortune and opportunities I have had while living on these lands and the access I’ve had to green spaces across the territory.

If this is the first time you are being introduced to land acknowledgements, I hope this is helpful and encourages you to do more research. Land acknowledgments have been part of Indigneous cultures for hundreds of years. Since being a student at Dalhousie University, located in Mi’kma’ki the unceded and traditional territory of the Mi’kmaq, many organizations and places have started employing land acknowledgements in written documents or before meetings. This is especially important because colonizers work to erase the memory and traditional names of what we know now. Before I talk about land acknowledgments, there is some knowledge about colonialism to understand first.

The US and Canada are operating as a settler colonial society. As described by Tuck and Yang (2012), this means internal and external colonial models of exploitation are simultaneously achieved, since the empire and colony are one. This further causes the displacement and exploitation of people and the land simultaneously (Tuck & Yang, 2012). A quote that best describes settler colonialism is as follows:

...colonialism is best conceptualized as an irresistible outcome of a multigenerational and multifaceted process of forced dispossession and attempted acculturation – a disconnection from land, culture, and community – that has resulted in political chaos and social discord within First nations communities and the collective dependency of First Nations upon the state (Corntassel, 2012, p. 88).

“A territorial or land acknowledgement is an act of reconciliation that involves making a statement recognizing the traditional territory of the Indigenous people who called the land home before the arrival of settlers, and in many cases still do call it home.”

Alison Norman, a research adviser in the Ontario Ministry of Indigenous Relations and Reconciliation and a researcher at Trent University, says “[a land acknowledgements] purpose is to recognize that we, as settlers and as people who are not part of First Nations or Indigenous groups, are here on their land.” This statement should be read before meetings and events, and should be embedded in all documents. This can happen anywhere, and the contents can differ depending on the person saying the acknowledgement.

While there is no checklist per say, there are certain things you should consider when thinking about land acknowledgments: 1. The land acknowledgement should be personal and not an empty promise or a blanket statement. For example, a statement adopted by an organization should vary person to person since everyone has different lived experiences and may not all be settlers and/or white (hopefully).

2. It needs to be sincere and should discuss why you are grateful about having access to whoever’s traditional territory you are on.

For example, I would discuss how growing up in Abenaki territory laid the foundation for my love of nature.

3. The acknowledgement must also speak to the struggles happening in the territory you are in, such as pipelines, fracking, or other government policies harming Indigenous peoples and the environment.

4. Land acknowledgments can also speak about slavery connections and treaties that were signed by nations in the territory you are in.

5. Anything about your lived experiences that you think are important to know or want to share.

One of the best things as a settler to come from land acknowledgements is the catalyst for further learning. Someone mentions a treaty in a territory you are occupying and you’ve never heard of it? Great, now you can learn about this important piece of lived history you were never taught. You do not know the racist history of Canada and the US and of the land? Now you have a few pieces of information to learn more about the harm Indigenous peoples have faced since colonization.

Finally, I want to reiterate that I am a settler. I, by no means, have provided all the information possible on land acknowledgements.

They may differ by territory and the intricacies and nuances differ by specific Indigneous FN. Please do more research. Understand the land you occupy. If you are unsure, you can head to https://native-land.ca/ which maps all the territories. This history is important because it set the stage for everything and we are still living it. Karyn Recollet, an urban Cree woman and an associate professor at the University of Toronto’s Women and Gender Studies Institute, says it is important to see the territorial acknowledgement as an activation of Indigenous culture and states, “To think about land activation and land acknowledgement is to remember that there are these rich Indigenous governances that still exist, that are ongoing and that will go into the future.” The next time you speak at an event or are in a classroom, consider saying a land acknowledgment.

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Corntassel, J. (2012). Re-envisioning resurgence: Indigenous pathways to decolonization and sustainable self-determination. Decolonization: indigeneity, education & society, 1(1), 86-101.

Tuck, E., & Yang, K. W. (2012). Decolonization is not a metaphor. Decolonization:

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Indigeneity, education & society, 1(1). https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/toronto/territorial-acknowledgementsindigenous-1.4175136

Written by: Sophie Boardman 6

T h e C o l oniz ation and G e ntr ification of Yoga As a Desi woman living in the US, I’ve always felt profoundly awkward in just about every yoga class I’ve ever had the misfortune of walking into. Whether it be the overwhelming whiteness in the yoga industry, the unnecessary expenses associated with yoga practice, or the blatant misuse of terms such as “third eye” and “chakra,” it’s no secret that the western yoga space is exclusionary and disingenuous to its roots.

Susanna Barkataki, a prominent yoga cultural advocate describes the experience of being a South Asian in Western yoga as being “a stranger in your own land.” This experience is not unique, but a sad reality for many Desis living in the West. The truth is that just about all yoga practiced in the Western sphere is culturally appropriative, and this needs to change.

YOGA IN SOUTH ASIA Since its beginning over 5,000 years ago in the Indus Valley, yoga has been inextricably blended with South Asian religious practices. In fact, the very first instance of the word ‘yoga’ was in the Rig Veda, the first of the four religious Hindu texts known as the Vedas. It is also important to note that other Dharmic religions such as Buddhism and Jainism also have roots in Vedic philosophy and practice yoga as well.

Yoga is, at its simplest, a Sanskrit word meaning “to unite” or “to join.” The goal of yoga is self-realization, to turn inward and unite with the Self (the Atman). In undergoing this spiritual unfolding, Yoga teaches practitioners to connect our Self to God. It is one of the 6 houses of Hinduism and is considered an essential part of the Hindu spiritual journey. In the West, we tend to strip yoga down to just refer to movement and breathing, oversimplifying the practice down to ‘exercise’ or ‘mindfulness,’ but it is much deeper than that. There are usually 8 limbs in yoga practice, but Asana (poses) and Pranayama (breathing) are the only ones practiced in Western studios. The other limbs include Yama (ethical guidelines), Niyama (positive behaviors), Pratyahara (detachment from life’s fluctuation), Dharana (focus and concentration), Dhyana (devotional meditation on God) and Samadhi (absorption of individual consciousness to the essence of God). So if your yoga practice doesn’t encompass all the 8 limbs, then it probably isn’t really yoga.

Under British colonial rule, many native Indian practices like Yoga and Ayurveda were de-facto banned in an effort to separate Indians from their cultures, instead encouraged to adopt Western ideals. It’s also important to note that the word Hinduism never existed before the British. The concept of a unified India and ‘Hinduism’ (which derived from the word heathen, used to describe followers of non-Abrahamic religions) were both colonial constructs. Because of this, the concept of ‘Hinduism’ had to encompass a whole subcontinent worth of diverse and extremely varied religious practices, which often included many unique yoga lineages. The British hoped to ‘Westernize’ Indians by stripping them of their cultural and religious practices, meaning that during this time, entire yoga lineages were lost, and to some extent, intentionally eradicated. Under British colonial rule, thousands of years of yoga tradition disappeared, a trend which continues in India today.

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GENTRIFICATION AND APPROPRIATION IN THE WEST Meditation and yoga were popularized in the West during the 1960’s counter-culture movements, and since then the yoga space in America has gotten progressively whiter.

Take Indra Devi, a woman known as the “First Lady of Yoga” and largely credited for the explosion of yoga in America. In 1937 Indra Devi (real name Eugenie Peterson) was admitted into Krishnamancharya’s school, becoming the first white woman to ever attend an Indian ashram. She then went on to become “instrumental in the global diffusion” of yoga, opening studios in Hollywood, and marketing three books to white housewives across America. She is often lauded by white yogis as one of the most important women to ever practice yoga. However, Indra Devi’s real history isn’t nearly as rosy. Krishnamacharya was essentially forced to teach her after she leveraged her position as an Indian film star to Krishnamacharya’s employer, the Maharaja of Mysore. Her entire yoga journey began with her forcing Krishnamancharya to ignore his principles and teach her. Would Indra Devi still be hailed as the First Lady of Yoga if she hadn’t used her position of power as a white woman in post-colonial India to get film roles and make demands to Indian Maharajas?

The most popular yoga in the West is derived from Hatha Yoga. This type is considered the most ‘acceptable’ form of yoga in the West, due to the belief that Hatha Yoga is more spiritual than overtly religious. However yoga is by definition Dharmic, and Hatha Yoga is a crucial part of a complex spiritual path to realize the divine nature of Self (the Atman). Many Hatha poses are depictions of Hindu deities, and certain hand positions (known as mudras) are believed to channel the divine breath of the universe (prana).

Still, Western yogis minimize and hide the spirituality of yoga by replacing traditional yoga terms with phrases more palatable to an overwhelmingly white audience. Asanas are called “poses”, Pranayama is called “breathing technique” and chakras are called “energy centers” or “energy points.” Most ignore the other 6 limbs of yoga altogether. Yoga is a spiritual practice with a spiritual goal, and disguising these key components of yoga or ignoring them completely is entirely disingenuous to the practice.

More recently, “variations” of yoga have emerged, many of which are incredibly disrespectful to the practice of yoga. “Goat Yoga,” or outdoor yoga with baby goats (because that somehow makes sense) is nothing more than an excuse to take some cute pictures with goats and do a downward dog or two with a goat on your back. Even worse is “Rage Yoga,” filled with screaming, cussing, and copious amounts of alcohol. The whole point of yoga is serenity and inward reflection! While Goat Yoga may just be a little tone-deaf, Rage Yoga is insulting to the entire practice (seriously whose idea was it to call this ‘yoga’?).

All of these pale in comparison, however, to the newly popular ‘Christian Yoga.’ The phrase ‘Christian Yoga’ is in and of itself an oxymoron, and disrespectful to millennia of the yoga tradition. Since yoga is inherently a form of prayer and meditation, Christians (and other Abrahamic religions as well) believe they cannot practice it without engaging in idolatry. This is to some extent true, but instead of respecting yoga, Christian yogis instead try to “redeem” (another word for “Christianize”) the practice. Nevermind the fact that claiming and renaming “demonic” spiritual yoga poses is incredibly insulting to Dharmic religions, but it’s disingenuous to Christian practice as well.

Yoga poses (Asanas) are already dedicated to Dharmic deities, so how can they be “reclaimed” in prayer to Christ?

They can’t, at least not without completely erasing the entire history and intentions of yoga.

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CAPITALIZATION AND COMMODIFICATION OF YOGA But gentrification isn’t the only reason yoga has suffered in the West; Yoga’s overwhelming popularity has also brought the millennia-old practice into the context of Western capitalism and consumerism. Historically, yoga has always been a free and open practice; welcome to everybody regardless of wealth or status. Yogis in India took a vow of poverty and relied on individual donations of food and supplies from the community to sustain them through their practice. Because of this, they were able to offer free yoga instruction to those who wanted it. However, this was impossible to maintain, as yoga entered the West and the term “Yogi” began to describe a profession rather than a way of life.

In consequence, yoga became a commodity to be consumed and bought and sold. Multinational corporate giants like Nike and Lululemon designed clothing and accessories specifically for yoga and mass-marketed ‘yoga pants’ to consumers. Alongside this, the price for yoga studio membership has skyrocketed, meaning Western yoga became almost exclusively preserved for wealthy white women who can afford it. This is in and of itself is antithetical to the teachings of yoga. A key goal of yoga is to achieve “otherness in a material world;” a lesson directly contradicted by $100 Lululemon yoga pants (not to mention these products were created from exploited South Asian labor in Bangladesh). What’s worse is that this same commodified and appropriative “yoga” has gained popularity in India as well. Large companies market yoga as fitness and sell it back to Indians, slowly erasing the traditional methods of yoga practice.

CAN YOU ETHICALLY PRACTICE YOGA AS A NON-HINDU? The answer is a resounding yes! But there is just one caveat: to ethically practice yoga, you must understand its roots. Yoga is something so entwined and imbued with Dharmic religious practices and South Asian cultural identity that it is impossible to authentically separate yoga from its roots. South Asian yoga teacher and scholar K Pattabhi Jois said, “Indian people are used to following tradition, to having faith in the system, and to believing in moksha for liberation. But for Western people, moksha is not very important. They practice yoga primarily for their health, which is ok. But to really understand the heritage of India, one must also understand its ancient tradition. Some Westerners overlook this great heritage and have no idea what are the roots of yoga.” It is entirely possible to practice yoga in the frame of cultural appreciation rather than appropriation.

HOW TO ACTUALLY DECOLONIZE YOUR YOGA PRACTICE 1. Always be critical of your yoga practice - As yoga practitioners in the West, we must hold ourselves accountable. The whole purpose of yoga is introspection, and especially for white people, the first step in decolonization is always to look inward. If this article offends you or makes you uncomfortable in any way, that’s a pretty good sign that it’s time to unpack your own appropriative and harmful mindsets.

2. Honor yoga’s history - Like mentioned before, make sure you learn the origins of yoga. Before entering a yoga studio, explore and cite the cultural references behind yoga. And please, learn how to correctly pronounce “om.”

Better yet? Learn what the mantra actually signifies. It is easily the most sacred sound in Hinduism, and yet very few yogis offer it the respect it deserves.

3. Practice all 8 limbs of yoga - Asana (poses) and Pranayama (breathing) is not yoga. It is a part of yoga, and to actually practice an authentic and decolonized version of the practice, you must be willing to explore and adopt the other 6 limbs. This is essential to a deeper understanding of yoga, and will take your practice to the next level.

4. Follow minority yogis - Especially in the current climate, it is crucial to look to the intentions behind yoga.

Yoga is liberation from every construct, including race, gender, wealth, class, space, location, identity, and even history. In a modern context, where Western yoga is a monolith of wealthy white women, we must make space and support diverse yogis. To truly honor yoga, reclaim yoga spaces for BIPOC and other minority yogis.

5. Recognize yoga as a force for good - Yoga is a powerful practice, and can bring positive change to underserved communities. In a capitalist society, the best way to bring about change is to put your money where your mouth is and donate to organizations that offer free or reduced-price yoga classes to low-income communities.

A quick search can pull up these organizations in your area, but bigger initiatives include the Hands to Heart Center and Yoga 4 Change.

Written by: Reha Kakkar 9

Why it’s No t E nough to B oyc o tt Un s u st a i nable Prod uc ts In these last couple of years, the idea of “ethical consumerism” has emerged; it is the idea of buying of ethicallymade products that support small scale manufacturers and local artisans while protecting animals and the environment and then boycotting products that exploit children as workers, are tested on animals, or damage the environment, as a means of creating change. It seems like a nice idea, sending a message through our money, and it worked for the Civil Rights Movement, didn’t it? By boycotting the buses? Well, times are slightly different now in the sense that shopping and how we shop has become a lot more complicated.

Now in 2020, we have the internet and with it a whole array of online shopping and purchasing options. You don’t have to go to the store anymore to buy what you want. Now you can have it packaged and delivered to your doorstep with just a click of your mouse. With this innovation, companies and industries have expanded as well.

Even if you attempt to be an ethical consumer, you might find yourself being unethical in other ways. For example, let’s say you’re looking to reduce your carbon footprint by buying products with a low carbon footprint, but then you find out that that company also funds prison labor (a form of modern-day slavery). Then, you look for a brand that treats its employees well and pays them what they deserve, but it’s made really far away so it’ll have a high carbon footprint. Either way, you’re trading off one value for another. It has become incredibly difficult to find the “perfectly ethical” product, and, let’s be honest, a lot of people won’t do all the research to find the most ethical option. Even then, most of the more ethical options cost more. For example, take a look at Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics products, they are eco-friendly and pretty low waste but a bit pricey; it’s not the first or best option for everyone. With the added problem of cost, being an ethical consumer is just not accessible or an option for a lot of people. So, is all hope lost? Of course not!

While it is important to take individual actions in order to reduce your carbon footprint and have a low impact on our planet, it’s important to recognize that we need systemic action. For true change to happen and to make a global shift towards sustainable products in all aspects, it’s going to take effort from everyone: our governments, corporations, scientists, businesses, etc. Ethical consumerism has the right idea in the sense that it sends a message by not putting our money in places that aren’t good for our planet and people, we just need to amplify that message. That’s where larger organizations like non-governmental organizations (NGOs) or even governments come in. In order to make sure all companies create sustainable options that are accessible to everyone, we’ll need their help by creating regulations where companies come together to create innovative solutions. For example, students and scientists came together in 2017 to create “Ooho!” an ‘edible water bottle’ made from a tasteless seaweed extract and aims to replace plastic water bottles. NGOs may also create petitions that we can sign or the tools to reach out to companies to demand better and more ethical products. An example of this is MoveOn.org, an organization that primarily focuses on nonpartisan education and advocacy on important national issues, and has a platform for people to create and sign petitions for civic action. Therefore, before you spend hundreds of dollars on “ethical” products, try looking for organizations around you that may be fighting to make the product you’re looking for more sustainable, ethical, and accessible. Also, look up if your elected officials are doing anything to take systemic action for a greener world in the corporate arena. In essence, an organized collective strategy is the route we need to take rather than relying on individuals to make ethical purchases around the world.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethical_consumerism https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/sian-conway/ ethical-consumer_b_17640356.html?guccounter=1&guce_ referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZWNvc2lhLm9yZy8&guce_ referrer_sig=AQAAAKuo-kZiSVMm_6hyC9N1F04Jb_ nxOj5I6KGJ25-yCuEbLLNvKmgRP9HhaFldXHB2_

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wLLWYiO1Qd7zefJ2FKpyOqvvQTt7tjD8EXYdBS8IvUa0HE0B_ aNHujVsE8bF4mmapg-7moHvVb5SQHrasHQ7zxHHiFrcLD4 yh6q9u2RaIpN https://www.vogue.com/article/ethical-consumer-rentrayagebatsheva-lidia-may https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.telegraph.co.uk/

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technology/2017/04/12/edible-water-bottle-could-put-end-plasticpackaging/amp/ https://front.moveon.org

Written by: Regina Loayza 10

Fo o d Apartheid a n d COVI D- 19 As sustainability has grown in popularity, it has often taken on the persona of a wealthy white woman sipping her drink through a metal straw as she eats a meal crafted entirely from home-grown or farmers-market-bought vegetables. This image is a privilege. An “easy” solution promoted in sustainability circles is shopping locally and in bulk. This too is a privilege. In reality, food apartheid leaves millions of Americans unable to even access healthy food because of their race, economic status, and/or zip code they live in. Recently, food apartheid has collided with COVID-19 and led to more Black people dying due to preexisting conditions and other circumstances caused by systemic racism in the food industry.

Food apartheid occurs when an area does not have easy and affordable access to fruits, vegetables, and other healthy foods. These areas are often known as “food deserts.” However, this terminology brings up images of desolation and emptiness while failing to acknowledge the systems that lead to communities of color and low income communities having little to no access to produce. The USDA estimates that 54.4 million people, or 17.7% of the population, in the U.S. are low-income and have low access to healthy foods.

Food apartheid results in food mirages, (low income areas that have supermarkets but cannot afford healthy food), food swamps (areas with more access to fast food than healthy food), and an overall lack of nutritious food for communities of color. When faced with a pandemic like COVID-19, these discrepancies can have life-threatening effects.

In a study done by John Hopkins University, it was found that “while Black Americans represent only about 13% of the population..., they account for about 34% of total Covid-19 deaths.” These discrepancies were attributed to higher rates of chronic conditions, inequalities in socioeconomic status, lack of health insurance, reliance on public transport, and prevalence in essential jobs that are unable to work from home.

Many of the contributing factors are enhanced by food apartheid. Poor access to healthy foods leave Black communities in particular more susceptible to chronic conditions such as “obesity, diabetes, and hypertension,” which contribute to a higher chance of death from COVID. They cannot get treatment for conditions caused by a poor diet because they do not have access to health insurance. If people cannot pay to be hospitalized or treated for COVID, then their chances of dying increase. When there are also not fully-stocked grocery stores nearby, which has been a common occurrence during quarantine even in predominantly white communities, people of color have to spend more time and travel farther on public transportation to get to supermarkets. This means that they have a greater chance of contracting and possibly spreading COVID-19 because they have to spend more time outside of their houses to get necessary items. The shortages in grocery stores also means that there is even less access to healthy foods for low-income and low access areas. Food apartheid leads to more death in Black communities due to COVID-19.

For many people, healthy food is no further away than their refrigerators. It takes little thought to grab an apple instead of a bag of chips. This is a privilege we don’t think about. It is also a privilege that can be the difference between life and death. There needs to be change to eradicate food apartheid, so email or call your state senators to let them know your thoughts; get educated by reading Civil Eats, an online news source about the American food system; and donate to organizations like the Food Empowerment Project to give everyone an equal opportunity for healthy food.

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https://www.ers.usda.gov/data-products/food-access-research-atlas/documentation/ https://civileats.com/2020/05/05/people-of-color-are-at-greater-risk-of-covid-19-systemicracism-in-the-food-system-plays-a-role/ https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/data/us-state-data-availability

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https://civileats.com https://foodispower.org

Written by: Meaghan Thompson 11

U ig h u r Fo rc ed Labor in the Fa s h i on I nd ustry Right now in China exists the one of the largest religion-based imprisonment of citizens since the Holocaust. Over the last decade or so, more than 1 million Uighur citizens, a mostly Muslim ethnic minority living in the Xinjiang region of China, have experienced escalating atrocities including torture, detainment, forced separation, sexual abuse, compulsory sterilization, brainwashing, and transfer to labor camps and factories.

To understand how the global fashion & apparel industries fit into this, we’ll first talk about the history of the Uighur population. Uighurs are a large religious group in China, which is a secular nation of mostly Han Chinese. In the eyes of the Han majority, Uighurs are seen as criminals and separatists. In 2009, after the Chinese government began encouraging Han citizens to move to Xinjiang by favoring them for top jobs in the region, riots erupted in the capital killing close to 200 people, mostly Han. The riots allowed the government an opportunity to paint Uighur Chinese as Muslim terrorists, and in 2014, under Xi Jinping’s rule, the government initiated the Strike Hard Campaign Against Violent Terrorism. This campaign treats all Uighurs as potential terrorists and the region of Xinjiang became one of the most heavily policed areas in the world. Uighur citizens deemed as suspicious were sent to reeducation camps without having committed any crimes. As the camps came under global scrutiny, the Chinese government changed course and initiated the practice of sham trials to send Uighurs to prisons, labor camps, and factories. According to BBC, by the end of 2019, it is believed that 1 million of the 11 million Uighurs in the region were detained in factories, prisons, and concentration camps. Since then, experts estimate that number has grown to 2 or even 3 million.

China is a major player in the global textile and apparel industries. For instance, 30% of US apparel imports come from China. China is also a top producer of cotton, most of which is grown in Xinjiang. A coalition of nearly 70 Uighur rights groups plus 100 civil society organizations and labor unions from around the world are investigating and calling attention to the Uighur human rights crisis, estimating that as many as one in five cotton products worldwide are tainted with forced labor and human rights violations occurring in Xinjiang.

To make matters worse, it’s not possible for companies, even well-meaning ones, to prove that their supply chain and imports are free from Uighur forced labor. Why? Because some cotton from Xinjiang is processed in other parts of China and routed to neighboring countries before reaching its final destination. Another reason is that, according to the Workers Rights Consortium (WRC), labor inspections in the region are nearly impossible and Uighur forced labourers face severe penalties and retaliation for speaking the truth about their experiences.

Chloe Cranston of Anti-Slavery International asserts that there is a high likelihood that apparel brands, from fastfashion to luxury, could be linked to Uighur forced labor. Credible reports from Associated press, Axios, Wall Street Journal and others have directly linked major brands such as Amazon, Fila, Gap, H&M, Patagonia, Polo Ralph Lauren, Zara and Victoria’s Secret to the Chinese labor camps.

So what’s being done to address the crisis? In the US capital, a bipartisan consensus for action led to the President signing into law the Uighur Human Rights Policy Act, which imposes sanctions on those involved in Xinjiang Uighur abuses and requires the President to periodically send a list of those responsible for the abuses to Congress.

However, activists and experts alike agree that the Uighur Human Rights Policy Act does not go far enough.

Alex Ward of Vox interviewed experts, policy makers, and former US officials to find out what more can be done.

Ideas include an international coalition putting pressure on China rather than a US response, as well as a focus on supporting Uighurs and affiliated groups directly, rather than just punishing China.

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As for individual consumers, what can we do? If it’s almost impossible for companies to know that their supply chains are free from forced labor, how are we meant to make decisions about what we buy? This idea is similar to other issues within the conscious consumption realm, like companies greenwashing their marketing to appeal to those trying to make environmentally friendly choices.

Is it best to find ethical or eco-friendly alternatives to our desired purchases?

It seems that this is simply not feasible, particularly in the Uighur situation. So maybe our efforts should focus more on reducing our apparel purchases overall and, if possible, using our resources to support Uighur activist groups instead.

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https://enduyghurforcedlabour.org/news/402-2/ https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2020/jul/23/virtually-entirefashion-industry-complicit-in-uighur-forced-labour-say-rights-groups-china https://inews.co.uk/news/uk/uighurs-china-alleged-concentration-camps-

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muslims-557751 https://www.thenation.com/article/world/xinjiang-cotton-forced-labor/ https://www.vox.com/2020/7/28/21337081/china-uighurs-muslims-trump-forced-laborhelp

Written by: Mary Louis Seid 13

The Move me nt B e hind the New # C h a lle n ge acc epted Trend Within recent weeks, you may have seen black and white posts of women on Instagram with the hashtag #challengeaccepted. This is a new Instagram trend that is being used to empower women. However, what many people do not know is that it started as a way to bring awareness to domestic violence, specifically in Turkey. As the hashtags and captions were shared in other languages, the original meaning behind it became lost in translation. Instead, the trend transformed into one that represented female empowerment and solidarity. Since then, Turkish feminists have been trying to remind the rest of the world to not forget about the original meaning.

Last month, the murder of a 27-year-old Kurdish woman, Pinar Gültekin, sparked outrage in Turkey.

Protests erupted across the country because it is too common in Turkey. In 2019, nearly 500 women, the highest rate in a decade, were murdered by partners or family members. The numbers are only expected to increase in 2020 due to lockdown measures put in place to help control the current pandemic.

Turkish feminists have been using the term femicide to describe the issue of Turkey’s high rates of domestic violence. The term femicide has been used to describe this violence and is broadly defined as “the intentional killing of females because of their gender”. A majority of these deaths are caused by partners or relatives of the victim. Turkish newspapers publish black and white photos of women that have been murdered, which is why the Instagram challenge involves posting black and white pictures.

As the campaign gained momentum, more and more women posted black and white photos to send a message to say they could be the next woman appearing in the newspaper.

Activists are not only trying to bring attention to the deeply-rooted domestic violence in Turkish culture, but they are also trying to shed light on the President’s efforts to repeal the Istanbul Convention. The Istanbul Convention was a Council of Europe Convention that was held to combat violence against women and domestic violence. While the 2011 binding agreement was aimed to protect victims of domestic abuse and effectively punish perpetrators, it has in many cases failed to do so.

Although protests have occurred all over the country, the government is continuing to neglect the issue of domestic violence. Protestors have also been calling for the government to uphold the Istanbul Convention, but their efforts have been met with violent pushback from the police. The Turkish government’s response to the protests reveals a dangerous and toxic environment for women. Instead of actively working to decrease sex-based crime rates, the government acted by trying to silence women protesting femicide. Turkey’s incredibly conservative institutions have stifled the efforts of protestors by implementing a ban on protests and marches. Laws protecting women are not implemented well and political leaders continue to normalize domestic violence. Since the government is not listening to the concerns of the people, Turkish feminists campaigned on social media with hopes of bringing international attention to this issue.

Written by: Phoebe Nassar 14

C ov id -1 9 a n d I nstability in the Mid d le E ast While foreign relations and policy experts said the Covid-19 crisis posed an opportunity for regime change and international cooperation in the Middle East and North Africa, this has proven to be untrue so far. The preexisting political instability in some countries has contributed to uneven and inequitable distribution of medical aid, which, in some instances, has strengthened militia and rebel forces and further exacerbated the conflicts between state and non-state actors. Ezzidene Fishere, a distinguished lecturer at Dartmouth College and fellow for the Washington Post wrote, “Even a global pandemic cannot shatter the entrenched premises upon which Middle Eastern elites have constructed their worldviews.”

Ranja Alaaldin, a visiting fellow at Brookings Doha Center, examined the political and health implications of Covid-19 in Libya, Yemen, Iraq, and Syria.

In Libya, militias have been able to channel medical aid directly to their fighters; in Yemen, they managed to steal aid donated by the World Health Organization and the continued attack on medical, food, and water supplies have contributed to one of the worst and most significant humanitarian crises in the world. In Iraq, ISIS is exploiting the public health crisis to expand and deepen their influence in lieu of government failure. Alaaldin wrote, “At a minimum, Baghdad’s failures allow ISIS to position itself as a viable alternative. Combined with its current campaign of fear and intimidation, targeted assassinations, and extortion, this provides it with a patchwork, underground infrastructure of influence that establishes a launching pad from which to seize towns and cities in the manner it did in June 2014.”

Syrians are facing the daily challenges of a raging civil war, such as a shattered government, regime-controlled territories, sectarian violence, and ethnic group divisions. The instability caused by the war is strengthened by lack of access to healthcare and aid for effectively fighting the pandemic. The Idlib Governorate in North Western Syria, home to approximately 1.5 million people, has 1.4 doctors for every 10,000 people and only 100 ventilators for the region.

The crisis and division in Syria does not make any international or formal aid easy, as non-state actors target supply chains; for example, pro-Turkish forces cutting off access to water supply chains for Kurdish people in North Eastern Syria. Additionally, the Assad-regime-held regions of the country refuse to share and distribute their aid from the World Health Organization beyond their own borders. International organizations, such as the WHO, are ill-equipped to equally distribute aid when and where it is most truly needed, as they are restricted by western parameters of state sovereignty. The failure of Covid-19 management in Syria is devastating to a country already suffering from political crises, a food crisis, and a refugee crisis.

In addition, some leaders in the Middle East have used the pandemic as a vehicle for repression. Leaders and regimes in Algeria, Morocco, and Persian Gulf states made it illegal to talk about the failures of the government in handling Covid-19. Egypt saw the expansion of executive powers and law, with state-monitoring of social media allowing the spread of false information - such as viewing the pandemic as either over or purposefully caused by foreign enemies in the West. In Palestine, movement continues to be restricted, making it difficult for residents of Gaza to travel to Israel for urgent medical treatments. In addition, due to a collapse in security coordination between the Palestinian Authority and Israel, the delivery of essential aid and assistance has been hindered.

While foreign policy experts throughout the world saw a possible opportunity for healthcare reform and renewed globalization, that is far from the reality we see today. Instead, hospitals and medical facilities are targeted, political and ethnic affiliations and divides have prevented allocation of and access to fundamental resources, and food and water scarcity has led to massive humanitarian crises. Fishere describes later in his article the need for international support, such as the medical supplies given by the World Health Organization, to stop discriminating between different communities in order to prevent the weaponization of crucial resources, by both state and nonstate actors, that have drastic impacts on the lives of millions of people.

Written by: Georgia Fish 15

L ebanon: A C o u ntry in Crisis On Tuesday, August 4th, there was an explosion in Beirut, Lebanon. Approximately 150 people were killed, and an additional 5,000 were injured. Prior to the explosion, Lebanon was already a country in turmoil. Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, Lebanon was already facing a crash in its economy, protests due to frustrations with the government, and in March, COVID-19 began spreading through the country. The explosion has resulted in not only thousands of deaths and injuries, but has worsened the anger felt by the Lebanese towards their government for its lack of agency and self-interest.

THE ECONOMIC CRISIS Prior to the pandemic, Lebanon’s economy was in a state of crisis. Since October 2019, the Lebanese pound has lost 80% and prices of food and other basic necessities have continued to rise. At the end of May, unemployment was at 30% and a third of the population was underneath the poverty line. Not only that, but Lebanon is also the third most indebted nation in the world, with those in power doing little to fix the problem. Electric cuts are also becoming more and more common, and some places are facing as many as 20 hours of darkness per day. There was an attempt at imposing more taxes on goods such as tobacco and petrol, as well as calls made on messaging services such as WhatsApp, in hopes of generating revenue. That being said, the backlash was huge and the plans were dropped. Most of Lebanese people see their government as only concerned with increasing their own personal wealth, and it goes to show that the reforms that could help the actual population of the country don’t seem to be among the government’s interests.

POLITICAL UNREST Towards the end of 2019, protests erupted as plans to increase taxes acted as many unions’ and individuals’ breaking points. Tens of thousands of Lebanese people took to protesting in the streets, resulting in one of the first times that religious boundaries were crossed since the Lebanese civil war ended in 1989. The Prime Minister at the time, Saad Hariri, stepped down, and Prime Minister Hassan Diab took his place. Protests have been continuous since starting last October, and in June there were numerous groups filling streets in large cities and targeting the Prime Minister’s home in Beirut. Stones were thrown at military forces, molotov cocktails were reportedly being used, and even areas that typically do not show this type of activity joined in protesting over the government’s failing to better the economy.

THE PANDEMIC A lockdown in March was put in place to help lower the spread of COVID-19. This did put protests on hold, but it also worsened the economic crisis and showed how flawed and unprepared Lebanon’s social welfare system is.

Many lost their jobs, and as prices continued to rise, so did anger and discontent. Some banks were set ablaze by protesters, and Lebanon entered into a “food crisis.” Most of the population can no longer afford to buy meat, fruits, and vegetables, meaning the health and overall wellness of the population is declining, and most are on the brink of not being able to afford bread.

THE EXPLOSION The explosion is said to be caused by a fire in a warehouse in the city’s port. However, after push from Lebanese people and the media, officials admitted that they were unsafely storing tonnes of explosive material in the warehouse. Approximately 10-15 billion dollars have been lost because of the blast, and around 300,000 Lebanese individuals have lost their homes. The country is struggling to adequately provide services and welfare to its citizens, although the government has said it will give around five-million Lebanese pounds to help those affected and called for three days of official mourning.

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So, what can you do?

It is important to not only educate yourself on what is happening in Lebanon, but educate others around you as well. Donate if you have the means to, and spread the word regarding different funds that are available. It is important to note, though, that how matters are handled in Lebanon, and the Middle-East, are different than how matters are handled in North America. For example, there is a tweet that is circulating regarding Change.org petitions. While they may hold weight in some Western countries, the user made it clear those types of efforts will have zero impact on changes in Lebanon. Also, it is important to donate to reputable organizations that are actually sending money to Lebanon, many suggesting The Lebanese Red Cross as the only organization they’d encourage people to donate to.

Although these crises may not be impacting you, they are impacting your world. Do your best to stay informed, donate, and educate others.

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https://www.bbc.com/news/world-middle-east-53390108 https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/53661126 https://www.cnbc.com/2020/07/10/already-in-financial-meltdown-lebanon-enduresdaily-blackouts.html

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https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/help-those-affected-explosion-beirut-214000846.html https://www.cnn.com/2020/06/11/middleeast/lebanon-economic-protests-intl/index. html

Written by: Nicole Coppage 17

it’s

OUR HOME

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Me e t B a re Soul Care “We were just a couple of close friends always discussing ways we could make a difference in the world, and plastic consumption along with ocean conservation has always been one of our hot topics. We initially started making products for ourselves and got really interested in the whole process and the science involved. Bare Soul Care was born when we realized how much we loved the creative process alongside wanting to provide our communities with better product options.”

Q&A

i bares oul c are

W h at wa s the p rocess like of sta rting a sm all busine ss?

Starting a small business took a whole lot of everything. We are the stockers, makers, researchers, marketers, customer service, website makers, janitors, the list is never ending. It took a lot of figuring out how to navigate all of these different tasks at first and starting a business was something extremely new to both of us. The actual registration process and making sure we were doing everything correctly was really intimidating at first. We were really grateful to take advantage of help offered by small business advisors in Kona which honestly made the process so much more simple than it was before. There is so much conflicting and confusing information on the internet but talking through the process with someone made the world of a difference.

W h at’s n e x t for B are S ou l Care?

We have so many ideas that we are so excited about! We feel really good about the “beauty care” line of Bare Soul Care and have been trying to decide what projects to tackle next. We are considering adding a natural zero waste cleaning line for products such as dish soaps, laundry detergents, etc. We just want to make sure that there are more zero waste options for everyday products available for people. Having local products that are sustainable is everything to us.

W h e n c re ating your p rod u cts, what is the proc e ss like ?

The process of creating our products involves a lot of trial and error. It starts with a lot of research on ingredients and their properties. The qualities they have and properties, like their pH, are all really important. During and after research we create a formula for what we think would make a great product and we give it a try. We then figure out every positive and negative thing we can think of about the product outcome and return to more research to try and turn those negatives into positives. The amount of trials that go into each product is significant and it was well over a year before we first felt comfortable with several of our products that we now love. We also make sure we get plenty of feedback from others throughout the process to make sure we are getting plenty of opinions. Feedback is extremely helpful because we all have different hair types, skin types, and thoughts.

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Wh at’s u n i q u e ab ou t B are S ou l Care ?

We create self care products minus the unnecesary things – water, nasty ingredients and plastic packaging. Bare is very unique to our current location – a very remote Hawaiian Island in the middle of the Pacific ocean. We were unable to buy plastic free shampoo, conditioner, body butter, or deodorant locally so we created our own!

We have combined practicality with natural botanical care and created a line of not only necessary but blissful products . Everyone needs to wash their hair and you should be able to without the use of nasty chemicals and unnecessary plastic packaging. The world is facing a pretty gnarly plastic waste issue and we are just trying to do our part by providing low impact alternatives to our local community and beyond.

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Spreading the word and sharing our products and missions are both the best compliments and best support we can ask for!

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Ec o - ab le is m a nd it’s I m portance in the E nv iro n m e ntal Discussion “Eco-ableism is simply a form of ableism, or discrimination in favor of able-bodied people.” - Mary Imgrud of ecowarriorprincess.com Ableism in general is extremely common in the environmental movement. Things like pushing for the plastic straw ban and ban of pre-chopped produce is an example of such ableism and is hurtful for the people with disabilities.

As someone who is fully able to cook one’s own meals using produce I prepare and is capable of being completely independent, I will never understand what it’s like to have something almost be taken away that my abilities depend on. Not being able to drink something due to the ban of plastic straws is disheartening and sad. The people pushing for these things - if they are aware of the dangers - are simply being inconsiderate of its negative impact on other communities.

When pushing for the straw ban, people put the safety of those with disabilities at risk. There are a lot of people in this world that physically can’t drink without a plastic straw. And some argue, “What about a paper, metal, or glass straw?” These all come with high risks. People with disabilities can choke on paper straws, and metal and glass straws pose an injury risk in which most can’t afford to take. Some people advocate for silicone, which I thought was a great idea until I read from npr.org that “Silicone straws are often not flexible — one of the most important features for people with mobility challenges.” If someone is already struggling with other physical challenges, why put more stress on them?

Another topic of conversation is making the plastic straw an “option”. While yes, this may be a solution to accommodate everyone, it also puts a mental burden on people with disabilities through them having to prove their challenges to friends, family, peers, and anyone they encounter on a daily basis.

It’s no secret that single-use plastics are in fact an issue. But of the 150 million metric tons of plastics floating in our ocean, it is said that only 2.5% of it is straws (fact via nationalgeographic.com). I am not trying to discount the importance of reducing the number of single-use plastic straws entering our oceans but rather shine the spotlight on perhaps “the bigger fish to fry”. The most common forms of plastic pollution suffocating our waterways are as follows: cigarette butts, food wrappers, plastic bottles/plastic bottle caps, plastic grocery bags, etc. with thousands entering our oceans every single day.

In all reality, what options are there?

• Governments/Politicians - They could make the item easier to dispose of and provide resources that will effectively take care of the waste in a way that won’t negatively impact the environment. For example investing in a better recycling system that accommodates this type of plastic would be a step in the right direction.

• Businesses - Businesses could provide biodegradable plastic straws and encourage refusing them where possible.

• Individuals - If you are privileged to do so, refuse plastic straws and either go #strawless or simply bring your own. Being an activist for the cause and amplifying the voices of people with disabilities is also just as important!

The it’s blog is based on being inclusive and making the environmental discussion available for all. Oftentimes the voices of those who need to be heard most are not, and are left exhausted from trying to get their important message out there. With this article I hope that you don’t take it and forget about it but rather implement changes that are applicable to you, and amplify the voices of those without one. Spreading awareness is always a big step in fighting for change so if you have a voice that is heard, use it to speak on a topic like this -- a topic that impacts the lives of many.

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W h at C o n s ervation has to d o w it h Colonialism Before I begin, I would like to point out that I identify as a woman of color, but am not Indigenous. I am writing from the point of view of a settler. I currently occupy and live on Nanrantsouak land, the unceded and traditional territory of the Abenaki, whose people are part of the Wabanaki Confederacy. I acknowledge the fortune and opportunities I have had while living on these lands and the access I’ve had to green spaces across the territory.

Chances are if you have learned, read, or talked about conservation, colonialism was not discussed. Why? Colonizers rarely openly talk about systematically oppressing and taking land and resources away from Indigenous peoples. As a nation, the idea that the US or Canada stole land would have many political and rights implications.

Many of the US and Canada’s laws are predicated on the fact that this land was not occupied and was discovered by them. The Doctrine of Discovery and Aboriginatile Title in Canadian law is predicated on the fact Canadians discovered the land (Mackey, 2014: Hoehn 2016). Although there have been public government apologies when it comes to things such as treaty rights and Aboriginal Title (as seen by the Canadian government), there has been little in the way of reconciling Indigenous peoples and conservation practices. Indigenous peoples have been fighting for their land back or proper recognition. The recent US Supreme Court ruling, McGirt v. Oklahoma, No. 18-9526, which reaffirmed that half of Oklahoma is Native land is an important reminder that the land we sit on was and is stolen.

Now you might be wondering how this has anything to do with conservation. Current conservation practices in the US and many countries are a colonial expression of land ownership and control of nature. For the US this started with John Muir, the “Father of the National Parks”, who wanted to preserve the great wilderness he happened upon so that no one else could harm it. In the process of creating some of the first US National Parks, such as Yosemite and the Grand Canyon, he removed the Indigenous peoples from the very land he wanted to conserve.

After removing Indigenous peoples from these places, then wealthy white peoples were free to enter the parks and enjoy true nature.

This history of conservation and parks is troubling and still resembles colonization in many ways. For one thing, the notion of separating humans and nature goes directly against Indigenous ways of knowing and being. Humans are not separate from the environment. One might argue that humans are the highest level of ecosystem engineers because we have changed and harmed the environment so much. When the western world uses that narrative, it is easier to cause harm to the environment and promotes the idea that humans are superior. This idea of untouched wilderness helped to separate humans from the environment, allowing settlers and conservation practices to displace countless Indigenous peoples across the US and Canada. As the US expanded, this idea coupled with manifest destiny allowed settlers to feel like they had continued control over their environment.

Another thing that has had lasting effects is when parks were created, only privileged white folx were allowed in parks. This is because Indigenous peoples and Black folx were considered inferior and excluded from these spaces based on their economic status and race. This legacy is very much alive today. Black folx and Indigenous peoples are welcomed less into nature. In marketing and recreational spaces, white folx are the main audience. BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and people of colour) face hostility and pressure from white folx in many outdoor spaces. For example, you may remember the black birder who wrongfully had police called on him by a white woman who felt “unsafe” in his presence after he asked her to leash up her dog per the law in the park..

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While many conservationists point to the importance of science and management practices implemented in PA to help keep people away from certain species of animals and plants, is it ethical to remove the peoples who have been on those lands for time immemorial? Many Indigenous peoples who were removed from these parks practiced many sustainable things. For example, the Mi’kmaw practice Netukulimk so they do not over harvest and take only what they need. All they needed was given to them by the land. Indigenous peoples have been taking care of their lands and waters for time immemorial. It is also important to note that not all conservation practices do not align with all Indigenous values and practices.

Conservation practices have been shifting globally, but until countries come to terms with how colonization is embedded in conservation not much will change. While the IUCN provides the categories for PAs, they are ultimately guidelines for countries to follow. Conservation may seem out of your reach but if you use public land for recreation or visit parks of any kind, you’re actually participating in it. The next time you visit public lands, I urge you to consider the history of the area and what kinds of practices are being implemented.

SOURCES + RESOURCES TO LEARN MORE Hoehn, F. (2016). Back to the future - reconciliation and Indigenous sovereignty after Tsilhqot’in. University of New Brunswick Law Journal, 67, 109-145.

Mackey, E. (2014). Unsettling expectations: (Un)certainty, settler states of feeling, law, and decolonization.

Canadian Journal of Law and Society, 29(2), 235-252. https://www.uinr.ca/programs/netukulimk/page/2/ https://www.iucn.org/theme/protected-areas/about/protected-areas-categories/category-vi-protected-areasustainable-use-natural-resources https://www.washingtonpost.com/arts-entertainment/2020/06/23/christian-cooper-central-park-birder-comics/ https://www.biography.com/scholar/john-muir https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/09/us/supreme-court-oklahoma-mcgirt-creek-nation.html https://indigenousfoundations.arts.ubc.ca/aboriginal_title/ https://www.rcaanc-cirnac.gc.ca/eng/1100100028574/1529354437231

Written by: Sophie Boardman 24

R eframin g E nviro nm e nt a l C a m pa ig n i n g to Tackle Pe r fo r m at ive Po lit ic s The response to calls for a green recovery has consisted of performative politics and deliberate misinterpretation of environmental campaign ideas by conservative politicians in the UK. There has been a wave of campaigns for a green recovery since the UK’s coronavirus crisis kicked off in March.

Innovative, lockdown-appropriate campaigning was put together by the Climate Coalition, who organised an online, virtual lobby where constituents across the UK could speak to their local Member of Parliament on a group Zoom call. “Build Back Better” was the tagline used and reposted across the UK, with polls showing 80% of the population wanting health and wellbeing to be a bigger focus than economic growth.

Prime Minister Boris Johnson’s announcement of recovery plans on 30th June was hotly anticipated by different environmental movements, especially climate campaigners. The UK Committee on Climate Change had recently released their 2020 progress report to parliament, which included a comprehensive recovery plan stating how locking out carbon would be more financially productive in the long term than locking it in. The UK’s legally binding emissions reductions target of net-zero emissions by 2050 is ambitious relative to other countries, but for its goals to be met, significantly more action is required. It seemed like the turning point was here for Britain’s climate change narrative and a chance to get the UK’s emissions reduction target back on track.

On that day, the heavily anticipated words “build back better” came out early in Johnson’s speech. But the detail that followed was nothing like the advice set out or the vision campaigned for. “Build back better” was secondary to “build build build”. Building schools, building prisons, building hospitals, laying new broadband fibre are all things the UK desperately needs after more than a decade of austerity from the last financial crisis. But they are needed in ways which meet legally binding climate targets.

Outside the speech, gestures to a green recovery were to commit £3bn towards retrofitting existing buildings (a miniscule amount compared with European countries) and the creation of 3000 conservation jobs. Here, the boxes for “green infrastructure” and “green jobs” have been ticked, but the substance of those commitments falls far short of requirements for a safe future and demands made by campaigners.

Instead of addressing calls for a green recovery, Johnson’s emphasis was on speed. In defending his plans to build more and build faster, he demonised the UK’s environmental regulations with the now infamous quote: “…newt-counting delays in our system are a massive drag on the productivity and prosperity of this country…”. To anyone with any environmental ideologies, experience in planning or a scientific background, this seems ludicrous. Wanting to water down environmental regulations is no reason to avoid locking out carbon emissions and to trivialise environmental regulation as “newt-counting delays” makes light of the global impacts of the climate crisis. For the record, newt protection regulation doesn’t appear to delay planning at all.

With one hand, Johnson took the narrative of “build back better” and claimed to have adopted its values.

With the other, he painted anyone asking for stronger regulations or more environmental action of any sort as opposed to progress and opposed to the prosperity of the country. Johnson has latently lumped conservation and climate campaigners in together and, in doing so, has used his broad brush to paint the whole environmental movement as an “enemy”.

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For the most part, environmentalists of different factions are sympathetic towards one another – those who support conservation will also be in favour of climate action and vice versa. Many environmental advocates intersect with other advocacy movements. But appearing as a united front can be a weakness.

Johnson and other politicians used the humble newt to portray “environmentalism” as a barrier to progress, a movement that cares more about newts than the prosperity of the nation. Rationally, we know that those who demand plans that lock out carbon rather than locking it in are advocating in favour of the nation. However, the statement is framed in a way that suggests that to protest the plan is to pit oneself against recovery.

Extinction Rebellion held extremely disruptive protests in London in 2019 demanding the declaration of a Climate Emergency. Ironically, London Mayor Sadiq Khan criticised protestors for preventing people from tackling climate change through using public transport. This is a similar phenomenon: a campaign for strong climate commitments was patronised as hindering the public’s efforts to do good, instead of eliciting discussions about the scale of change needed. The UK Conservative government needed to appease Extinction Rebellion protestors and return London to normal, but they were not willing to entertain their demands of reducing carbon emissions to net-zero by 2025. Instead, they willingly declared a “Climate Emergency” which had no requirements for substantial policy behind it.

These are just two examples of how climate campaigns have been trivialised by the UK government and the responses received have been performative at best. So how do we tackle performative politics and continuous undermining of environmental movements by politicians and the press? We can turn to other forms of protest to learn. In response to the Black Lives Matter protests across the USA, Barack Obama said the following: “…the more specific we can make demands for criminal justice and police reform, the harder it will be for elected officials to just offer lip service to the cause and then fall back into business as usual once protests have gone away.”

Whether specific environmental lobbying and explicit demands will be enough to safely limit climate change in the next ten years remains to be seen. But it is certain that the way we pitch the climate crisis and what we classify as satisfactory political action needs to be redefined. There is currently an assumption that demands for climate action can be met by anything that falls under the heading “green”.

This means advocates have a duty to never assume that politicians appreciate the complexity of problems like climate change and to never assume that the adjectives “green” or “environmental” adequately convey what is being demanded.

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https://www.gov.uk/government/speeches/pm-economy-speech-30-june-2020 https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-47945397 https://positivemoney.org/2020/05/new-polling-only-12-want-uk-to-prioritiseeconomic-growth-over-wellbeing/

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https://www.theccc.org.uk/publication/reducing-uk-emissions-2020-progressreport-to-parliament/

Written by: Manuela de Mendonça 26

H ow t o Dye Fabric Nat u ra lly at H om e Agood way to spice up boring white tees is to dye them! An exciting way to do it is by using fruits and veggies!

It’s a fun experience, but it will require a few trials to get the colour and shade you like. The more you experiment, the closer you’ll get to obtaining the desired colour! It’s a natural, easy, and creative way to colour your clothes.

Here are the materials you will need: • Gloves (the dye can stain) • Use only light coloured natural fabrics: The best are wool and silk because they’re protein fibres and hold the colour best. Cotton and linen also work!

• Use a colour fixative (optional but helps the fabric retain the colour): Use salt as a fixative if you’re using berries as the dye. Use vinegar if using plants to dye the fabric

PICK YOUR COLOURS! • To have orange/yellow shades use: onion skins, butternut squash husks, orange/lemon peels, celery leaves, turmeric • To have red/pink shades: beets, avocado skin or pit, lavender, raspberries, strawberries, cherries, roses • To have blue/purple shades: blueberries, red cabbage, blackberries, grapes • To have green shades: spinach, parsley, mint leaves, artichokes • Pick the design you want for the shirt (skip this if you want to dye the whole shirt): If you’re looking to create a tie dye effect, twist the shirt into a spiral and then secure it with elastic bands

ONCE YOU’VE COMPLETED THE PREVIOUS STEPS, YOU’RE READY TO MOVE ON TO THE ACTUAL DYEING! 1. Prepare the fabric with the fixative. If dyeing with plants, immerse it in 4 parts water and one part vinegar, If you’re using berries to dye the fabric, prepare it by immersing it in 8 cups of water with half a cup of salt.

2. Let sit for an hour.

3. Prepare the dye bath by putting the fruit or veggies that you’re using in a pot with water (water should be double the amount of veggies).

4. Bring it to a boil and then let it simmer for about an hour.

5. Filter the water.

6. Immerse the wet fabric into the coloured water and let it soak for as long as you like. The longer you leave it, the darker the colour!

7. Wash the fabric with cold water until the water runs clear.

8. Dry in the shade.

9. The first following washes should be done by hand to prevent the colour from fading.

Tip: You can save the dyed water and use it again!

For inspiration, check out these diy videos on dying clothes with produce!: How To Dye Fabric With Food Scraps Natural Tie Dye using Onion Skins | DIY Orange T-shirt Dyeing Clothes with Vegetables | DIY #Haulternative

Written by: Gaia Rattazzi 27

Env iro n m e ntal Ce rtif ications What D o T h ey R E A LLY Mean?

Labels aren’t everything, but they certainly make life easier when trying to up the ante on being more conscious consumers. The majority of us participate in the economy as consumers, whether it’s purchasing produce at the farmer’s market, splurging at Sephora, or ordering takeout during quarantine. We are often asked to donate money to political campaigns or charities, but what about spending money to support businesses that align with your values? We’ve seen brands in stores saying they’re natural, organic, fair trade - but what do those terms actually mean?

RAINFOREST ALLIANCE The Rainforest Alliance is an international non-profit working “at the intersection of business, agriculture, and forests to make responsible business the new normal”. They provide the Rainforest Alliance certification which is a little green frog - their slogan is “people and nature”. The Rainforest Alliance is committed to the three pillars of sustainability: social, economic and environmental and advance the following goals: • Conserve forests • Advance the human rights of rural people • Improve the livelihoods of farmers and forest communities • Build climate resilience Their certified products include agricultural (coffee, produce), forestry (paper products) and tourism (hotels and tour operators). Agricultural products meet the Rainforest Alliance’s Sustainable Agricultural Standard or the UTZ Code of Conduct. Spices and herbs are assessed by the Union for Ethical Biotrade standard. Forestry products meet the standard of the Forest Stewardship Council. Tourism services meet the NEPCon’s (Nature, Economy and People Connected) Sustainable Tourism Standard. May be misleading as a fair trade label. It does not provide protections to farmers and vendors from international price volatility. Labor protections are not at the forefront, and are not deemed critical. This label is great for someone looking to address the three pillars of sustainability with a tilt towards the environmental aspects.

You may have seen this label on...Yogi Tea, Nespresso, Chocolove, Dole Pineapples, Toms of Maine, Dreams Resorts]

FAIR TRADE CERTIFIED Fair Trade USA certifies various products as fair trade certified, meaning that they adhere to their standards that are focused on “support[ing] responsible companies, empower[ing] farmers, workers, fishermen, and protect[ing] the environment.” Their main mission is to promote a more equitable economy that ensures that farmers, artisans, and workers are paid a fair wage for upward economic mobility. They require worker protections and minimum wages.

Fair Trade USA not only certifies products, but also entire factories, organizations, fisheries, and farms. Depending on the type of product or organization, Fair Trade International establishes various criteria for certification.

The drawback? Fair Trade products are often more expensive, but a higher profit margin doesn’t necessarily mean that all of those extra funds are going into the maker’s or cooperative’s hands. That, and qualifying for the certification may be cost prohibitive to some producers. This label is great for someone looking to support workers and producers while being environmentally conscious.

You may have seen this label on...Arrowhead Mills, Wholesome Sweeteners, Simple Truth Organic, Patagonia, prAna 28

USDA ORGANIC This label is the only on the list backed by the federal government. It is a certification by the United States Department of Agriculture under the National Organic Program. It was established in 1990 by the Organic Foods Production Act in response to lobbying from organic industry groups to set consistent standards on what organic food is. This sets organic food apart from ‘humane’ or ‘natural’ foods which have no consistent definition, and are often used as marketing buzzwords.

• Products (primarily produce, but can include other items) must meet the following requirements: • Produced without excluded methods (genetic engineering, ionizing radiation, or sewage sludge) • Produced using allowed substances • Overseen by a USDA National Organic Program authorized certifying agent and following all USDA Organic regulations • Must have 95% of organic ingredients, to say “made with” then at least 70% of ingredients are organic • The only exception is organic farmers with less than $5,000 in sales - they can use the label organic without going through the certification process Products that can be certified organic are: food and beverages, flowers and plants, textiles and fibers, restaurants*, body care products, pet foods, seeds and gardening supplies, cosmetics, toys. However..the standards for body care products, restaurants, cosmetics, and toys are not as stringent as produce, plants, and seeds.

However, organic certification has no labor protections, strictly concerned with ingredient and environmental concerns. If you’re looking for a label that addresses economic and social sustainability, USDA’s organic label does not do the trick.

You may have seen this label on...produce at your local grocery store

PETA CRUELTY FREE AND VEGAN The People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals has its own certification focused on animal rights under their Beauty Without Bunnies campaign. Companies can be considered cruelty free, or cruelty free and vegan (if they do not have any animal products in their supply chain or final product). These products can range from cleaning supplies, beauty products, pet supplies to baby care. It does not include food and drink products or clothing.

Companies can join PETA’s Cruelty-Free list by: • Submitting a legally-binding Statement of Assurance signed by their CEO that verifies that they AND their supplies do not conduct, commission, pay for, or allow any tests on animals for ingredients, formulations or finished products anywhere in the world and that they do not have plans to do so in the future • Submitting paperwork detailing how they currently test their products, where they are sold, what products they offer, and what kind of ingredients they use - essentially evidence that their Statement of Assurance is true • Having agreements with their suppliers that their no animal testing is done with ingredients and raw materials supplied to the company in question This label is extremely helpful for animal lovers, but lacks worker or environmental protections (with the exception of the cruelty free and vegan certification!). If you want to make sure your product keeps your furry friends safe then this product is for you!

You may have seen this label on...Tarte, Urban Decay, Avalon Organics, J.R. Watkins, Preserve Products

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These labels can be useful in quickly identifying products that you’d like to support, but are no replacement for doing your own research on a company’s ethics. At the heart of it, these organizations establish basic standard practices to signal that they are, at some level, woke. The not so great news? Each of these labels has its drawbacks - they don’t go far enough to support fair labor practices, they ignore environmental sustainability, or they may certify some companies that are only interested in the label for the clout. The good news?

It’s still a step in the right direction. As the organic, fair trade, and cruelty free industries grow in demand, that’s a sign to producers that their target markets are looking for more ethical products. If you take a look at the plant-based meat industry just 20 years ago, you’d be stuck with tempeh, tofu or TVP (texturized vegetable protein). Today, you can find plant-based meats outside of specialty natural food stores and across the world at ma jor fast food chains. Is it going fast enough to fight climate change, global poverty, and animal cruelty?

Of course not. Is it a step in the right direction?

Absolutely.

Written by: Marcela Moreno 30

it’s

WHAT HELPS US GLOW

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C e l e brat in g B lac k B usine ss Mont h: B l a c k-O w n e d B e auty B rand s It is well-known that the beauty industry lacks diversity. From lack of shade inclusion in makeup lines to underrepresentation of Black models to a marketplace dominated by white owned businesses, the beauty industry has a lot of work to do before it is considered progressive and inclusive. As consumers, we have the power to support companies that align with our beliefs and visions for what we want the future of this industry to look like.

August is the month to turn all beauty influencers to beauty activists. In 2004, August was declared Black Business Month by John William Templeton and Frederick E. Jordan Sr. Their actions encouraged people to support black businesses as well as drew attention to the obstacles black business owners face. The best way to celebrate this month is to show up and support both local and national black owned businesses. However, efforts should continue outside of this month if we want to truly make an impact.

Here are a few black-owned beauty brands to get you started. Treat yourself to some new beauty products! Even though we’re wearing facemasks, we still need to take selfies in our homes right? And facemasks draw attention to that beautiful smoky eye!

LAMIK BEAUTY Community, growth mindset, meaningful, innovation, and individuality/authenticity are the core values at LAMIK. The founder, Kim Roxie, was inspired to start a natural beauty brand for women of color after working as a makeup artist in a mall, so she created LAMIK, which stands for Love and Makeup in Kindness.” LAMIK sells brow products like a beautiful neutral Celebrity Brow Kit, eyebrow eel, eyebrow maintenance kit and eyebrow stencils. They also sell a custom blend foundation, where the customer sends a selfie to LAMIK and LAMIK will collaborate with the customer to create the perfect foundation for their skin tone. Plus all the ingredients used in their products are vegan, natural and organic.

MENTED COSMETICS KJ Miller and Amanda E. Johnson founded Mented Cosmetics when they realized they couldn’t find a nude lipstick that matched their skin tone. They wanted to create a company that allowed women to feel beautiful by creating pig(mented) makeup that matches every skin tone. Mented Cosmetics has a wide array of lip products from semi-matte lipsticks to lip gloss to lip liners. They also have an option where you can “Build Your Own Trio,” where you create your own lip palette that includes three shades of semimatte lipstick. In addition, the brand has expanded to include other beauty products, such as bronzer.

They just released a Sunkissed Browner Collection, which comes in four different shades. Also, Mented is highly ethical: none of their products are tested on animals.

BEAUTY BAKERIE Cashmere Nicole founded Beauty Bakerie in 2011. As a single mother and breast cancer survivor, Nicole created a makeup brand with a massive Instagram cult following (over 1.2 million followers!). Lip Whip”, a no-smudge lip gloss, is a bestseller. The Lip Whip comes in matte, metallic, and crème finish. When you purchase from Beauty Bakerie’s wide selection of face, eye, and lip products, you are also donating to Sugar Homes, which is a charity founded in 2016 dedicated to donating clothes, food, and other essential items to orphanages around the globe. So far, Beauty Bakerie has donated over $100,000!

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PEAR NOVA Rachel James, a graduate from the International Academy of Design and Technology in Chicago, founded a cruelty free + vegan nail line called Pear Nova. Known for their unique nail color names, popular shades include Tipsy Tea Party, Moss Def, Dianna Boss and Cleo F*ckin Patra. Pear Nova uses inspiration from high fashion fabrics fresh off the runway. James researched for over a year to perfect a formula. Pear Nova has a wide variety of colors suitable for everyone. In fact, BRWNGRLMGC, a bestselling collection, was inspired by medium to dark skin tones. You won’t have trouble finding your next favorite shade with Pear Nova!

BLK + GRN Dr. Kristian Henderson created BLK + GRN to address the lack of diversity in the beauty industry. BLK + GRN is a marketplace that sells beauty and wellness products made by Black artisans. When she worked as a hospital administrator, Henderson disagreed with the current medical system so she decided to help people in another way. As a result, she set out to create all-natural, high-quality products that promote personal wellness. Not only does BLK + GRN sell makeup and nail products, BLK + GRN also offers bath + body care, skincare, menstrual care, hair products and more. BLK + GRN is a great way to support Black artisans and find new Black-owned makeup brands to fall in love with!

Written by: Esme Park 33

C o ron a , C o n f id enc e, & B e auty : A T ime o f Transf orm ation From seemingly endless days at home, video calls, and wearing a mask whenever you go outside, the changing times have called for changing routines. 2019 brought a change in the way that we view beauty; with the advent of Euphoria-style makeup dominating Instagram timelines and a resurgence of more natural, every-day looks, there was a clear direction being paved in the world of beauty. Enter 2020 and COVID-19: with countries going on lockdown, it seems like more and more people stopped applying their makeup and turned to a different kind of beauty.

Somehow, it seems that quarantine has actually improved the way I look at and how I interact with my skin.

Granted, my relationship with my skin was never that awful, aside from the standard pre-pubescent angst. I had some hormonal acne growing up, as well as some breakouts caused by side-swept bangs that I plastered to my forehead, but never anything that seriously damaged the way I felt about myself. I’ve also never been someone with an extensive daily makeup routine; mascara, concealer, eyebrow powder, and highlight (lipstick, if I’m feeling fancy) are enough for me. Although my routine itself was pretty low-maintenance, I still would never leave the house without my makeup.

However, ever since quarantine became the new norm in March, I’ve set the makeup aside on most days and began really focusing on skincare. In all honesty, for the first couple of video conferences with professors and bosses, I did my makeup as usual and eventually just stopped and began to attend all of these virtual events and meetings with a bare face. As time passed, I found myself more comfortable in my own skin and started to fall in love with my own appearance and really appreciate the way that I look without adding any makeup.

After reaching out and interviewing many different people discussing how this rather unconventional global pandemic time has affected our confidence and, consequently beauty views and habits, it seems that more and more people of all kinds have been finding comfort and beauty in their natural selves, too.

“Before quarantine, I was somewhat confident but definitely struggled a bit with how I viewed myself. I had good days and bad days, which I think we all do. Quarantine has allowed me to sit with and pay more attention to my insecurities. This has both made me feel down on myself and forced me to work through my confidence issues. Normally I’ll do a thorough cleanse and moisturizing routine when I wake up and before I go to bed, and throughout the day I’ll use some toner to freshen up. As far as beauty habits, I usually go makeup-free in my day to day life unless I’m going out for something special. I think doing my makeup, hair, and putting on a nice outfit always makes me feel more confident. Since I’ve been staying at home, I’ve had more time in my most natural state which at first made me feel more vulnerable and insecure, but now I think I’m starting to feel more comfortable in my own skin.”

Samantha M., 22, Freelance SEO Content Writer “Quarantine has caused me to become more in tune with skincare as a whole because I’ve worn makeup a lot less frequently so my skin has had time to breathe and get into its normal habits. Now I use a gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and toner in the morning and a night serum at night. Before, I’d wash in the morning with a gentle cleanser and a more exfoliating cleanser at night. My confidence has fluctuated with it since my skin is getting used to a new routine. I breakout sometimes and struggle with confidence but once it clears up I feel super confident.”

Ariyana W., 20, Student “I’ll be honest here. I alway keep my beauty habits simple and I truly was never into heavy makeup to where my skin cannot breathe or cover blemishes or acne when it should be normalized. Bobbi Brown once said makeup shouldn’t hide who you are.

There are days where I don’t wear makeup because who cares? I’m confident with or without it. I mainly focus on skincare and keeping my skin healthy. With quarantine and working 12+ hour shifts at the hospital, I focus more on keeping healthy and not suffocate my skin. My views before COVID about my beauty habits have stayed the same. I keep my lifestyle simple and my skin/makeup routine simple. Before this happened, I still took time and did my routine before and after work, that’s my me-time. I believe with age, you realize that if you listened to what everyone had to say about you or all the voices in your head, you would go crazy. You realize that social media is all a bunch of smoke and mirrors with Facetune. Everyone’s skin has texture. Everyone has pores. That’s how your skin breathes. We need to normalize acne because it plays a huge role in a person’s mental health and self-esteem to where they can be bullied for something that happens with puberty/genetics. It’s a shame.”

Naomi N., 28, Medical Student 34

“While being in quarantine, I’ve had more time on my hands. I’ve washed my face more, added some more face masks in my weekly routine, moisturized my face every day, and drank much more water. I’ve also started eating better, lots of fruits and veggies, which helps with my skin, . Before the quarantine, I didn’t really pay much attention. sometimes I would forget to moisturize my skin and I would cover my imperfections with a concealer. I’ve also stopped wearing as much makeup, which has gotten me used to seeing my face without makeup. Slowly, I have started falling in love with my no-makeup face, which has never happened before. I think the less we wear makeup, the more we get used to our natural beauty and start loving our appearance. This has definitely been a very interesting and awesome experience because it has increased my confidence. My business [Ash Cosmetics] has been doing great, especially since I started it right before COVID-19 got big… marketing my products has not been an issue since makeup is something that people always use and especially because my products are allnatural and organic, which is something more people are looking for during this time.”

Ashley L., 19, Independent Makeup Brand Owner “Something I can confidently say has changed during this time is the way I take care of my skin and the way I maintain and take care of myself! Now with this time alone, I’ve been able to look inward and cultivate self love and value from within and make it into a daily habit! Beforehand I can (reluctantly) say I horribly neglected myself and how I took care of myself.

Generally speaking, I feel as though having these few months of isolation to look inward have been nothing but beneficial for me. There’s a new sense of appreciation for the body and temple that I have and operate each and every day and, furthermore, I see myself in a much more autonomously conscious state of awareness now more than ever! I can say my confidence has definitely increased progressively and exponentially!

I’ve never felt this way and to see this side of myself growing has not only been reassuring, but rewarding.”

Samir P., 20, Airline Agent “As someone who works in sales, I’m always conscious about my appearance because the way that I look does have an effect on whether or not I make a sale or convince someone to purchase something from me. I have focused on my hair, body, and skin’s overall appearance since we started shutting down and staying home, though it hasn’t been as much as I had prior. I’ll admit to many conference calls in an ironed and pressed button-down and pajama pants but it doesn’t hurt anyone to know that I still focus on the way that I come across from the waist up. In terms of confidence, you should always fake it ‘til you make it… even if there is a day when I don’t feel my best, as a salesman, clients should not be able to tell, lockdown or not. It’s been a little difficult spending so much time in the mirror and feeling like a phony and questioning my worth outside of my appearance because my job does rely on it and staying home does leave me to my thoughts and ruminations a little more.”

John T., 53, Senior Salesman While the time of coronavirus hasn’t been anyone’s ideal way to spend the spring and summer, it has helped many people strengthen, repair, or even discover their relationship with themselves and their own beauty.

Written by: Allison Sickles 35

T h e B e st Natural Prod uct s fo r Your Sk in WHY NATURAL? In some instances, specialized formulas may be a good choice. However, for everyday use, natural products have become more popular thanks to their anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe sensitive skin. Unlike store-bought products, natural products have less potential to cause adverse effects that can make skin vulnerable to long-lasting damage. Plus, natural products are environmentally friendly (and wallet friendly too if you find your own sources or buy in bulk!).

ALOE VERA Aloe Vera has recently become widely known for its cooling and hydrating properties. It is helpful for healing/preventing sun damage and suitable for all skin types. It’s also great for sensitive skin that may be usually irritated by commercial products. The Aloe Vera gel can be easily extracted from the Aloe Vera plant. Aloe Vera is not only good for the skin,the plant itself is also a natural air filter,which alongside its other uses, makes it a great choice for an indoor plant.

Product Recommendations: Grow your own Aloe Vera at home by purchasing seeds or a plant!

OATS Not only are they a great breakfast choice, but they can also be great for exfoliating. Commercial products used for exfoliation can sometimes be harmful if used too hard or too often. Commonly used ingredients in commercial exfoliation products include microbeads, which lead to microtears and increased likelihood of bacteria entering pores. Finely ground oats are suitable for sensitive skin and have actually been approved by the FDA to treat skin irritation and conditions like eczema. Oats contain plenty of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties as well as saponins, which are natural cleansers that help to remove dead skin cells.

Products Recommendations: Make your DIY Oats Scrub at home! (with water, oats and honey - which contains hydrating properties).

COCONUT OIL Well known for hair care, coconut oil can also be used to hydrate the skin on both the body and face. Its multi-purpose anti-inflammatory properties serve to seal in moisture as well as promote wound healing.

It can be a great natural primer before applying makeup, especially if you’re going for that natural dewy look - however since it is an oil, it is highly comedogenic and so would not be recommended for those with oily skin to use on their faces, as it may clog pores.

Recommended Products: There are many 100% Coconut Oil products you can purchase on Amazon.

A recommended brand would be Parachute. Note that coconut oil may sometimes harden, but this is completely normal and it will melt easily in your hands.

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WITCH HAZEL Witch Hazel; a plant extract often used as an astringent to help close pores. Full of anti-inflammatory properties, Witch Hazel is a natural toner that should be used after washing your face, but before any moisturizers or serums. However, it can have drying effects so it may not be recommended for those with dry skin - but is better suited for those with oily skin. To combat this, some brands may include products such as rose water to prevent drying out the skin.

Recommended Product: Thayers Witch Hazel with Rose Petal (I use this too and I would highly recommend it!)

ROSE WATER Rose water isn’t your average anti-inflammatory product: rose water also contains the anti-bacterial properties needed to heal wounds, reduce redness, and improve conditions like acne or eczema. It is also optimal for controlling excess oil and maintaining the skin’s natural PH balance.

Recommended Products: Artizen Rosewater essential oil on Amazon is 100% Rose water and undiluted.

You can also make your own rose water at home by boiling rose petals!

Written by: Rimsha Malik 37

We ar you r SPF !

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I mpo r t a n c e of SPF + Prod uc ts f o r Every B ud ge t THE IMPORTANCE OF SPF You’ve probably been told that SPF is important. If you’re anything like me, you probably said, “Yeah, okay, great!” and went on with your day.

SPF is critical for cosmetic reasons, but it’s also vital for preventing skin cancer. Skin cancer often becomes an issue later in life. The risks of skin cancer are real and one of the best preventative measures to take is wearing SPF now.

THE SCIENCE OF “WHY” There are two kinds of ultraviolet sun rays that hit the Earth’s surface: UVA and UVB rays. Both of these rays pose dangers to the skin, which is why sunscreen should be a priority — yes, even inside.

UVA rays go deep into the skin. These are rays that don’t show harm right away, but can cause longterm issues, like premature and excessive signs of aging. Staying home doesn’t automatically protect you from these rays, either. UVA rays are powerful enough to penetrate your skin through windows, so it’s important to wear sunscreen even while you’re inside.

UVB rays are shorter rays that cause short term issues, like sunburns, and long term issues, like skin cancer.

Read more here.

The only way to prevent the negative effects of these sun rays is to wear SPF all the time. In order to prevent both kinds of rays, you should look for a sunscreen with at least 30 SPF and that is a broad spectrum product.

30+ SPF BROAD SPECTRUM PRODUCTS FOR EVERY BUDGET all of the products listed are cruelty free and many are vegan brands.

$40 Coola’s Full Spectrum 360-degree Sun Silk Drops Face Sunscreen If you’re looking for something a little different, you can try Coola’s silk drop sunscreen. This product is incredibly lightweight and is made with over 70% organic ingredients.

Murad’s Essential-C Day Moisture with SPF 30 It’s definitely pricey, but it lasts for a while, which is one of the reasons I love it. It’s incredibly lightweight and moisturizing, which is why it’s perfect to apply on the go.

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$25 - $40 Fenty Skin’s Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen Fenty Beauty’s release of Fenty Skin on July 31, 2020, gave us a great, moderately priced moisturizing SPF. It’s also available in the Fenty Skin Start’r Pack, which helps you save a little bit of money! Perfect for all of us on a budget.

Tula’s Daily Sunscreen Gel Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Tula’s daily sunscreen also protects from blue light by using wild butterfly ginger root. It’s formulated with papaya and pineapple to help moisturize and keep your skin tone even.

UNDER $25 Black Girl Sunscreen SPF 30 Black Girl Sunscreen is made by people of color for people of color. This sunscreen is infused with all kinds of fantastic ingredients like carrot juice and avocado.

Pacifica’s Mineral Face Shade Coconut Probiotic SPF 30 Pacifica has a large line of SPF products for both body and face, but this one is my personal favorites because it includes zinc oxide and coconut probiotic.

Written by: Jaci Schreckengost 40

it’s

WHAT WE WEAR

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S u st a in able Fashion in E d ucation When we talk about education, we limit ourselves to certain dominant disciplines. However, there also exist subject matters that deserve equal importance in the context of the modern-day world. Today’s education needs to be inclusive of subjects that cover sustainability across all dimensions. So how does sustainability of fashion come into the picture?

The Industrial Revolution paved the way for global progress and advancement at an unprecedented rate.

Numerous industries and innovations have sprung up, making life easier. But, at what cost? The very planet we live in!

Among these is the fashion industry, which is one of the most polluting industries in the world. It is resource and labour intensive, unethical and unsustainable. Various issues have surfaced in the recent decade, highlighting how the fashion world is killing the planet. But, it is only now that a slight consciousness is seeping into the mainstream society.

The industry promotes overconsumption of products which are manufactured unethically with the overuse of natural resources. This leaves a carbon footprint large enough to drive climate change. As if abusing the environment isn’t already problematic, the fast fashion industry also exploits humans. Sweatshops operating in developing countries like India and Bangladesh hire people of colour and overwork them under harsh conditions, with little to no pay.

It is important to understand that all of these damages have already been done. While attempts are being made to undo these, the need of the hour is to train and prepare future generations to combat this challenge and bring systemic change – which can be possible through education.

Here’s why education needs to emphasize on sustainable fashion knowledge – 1. There is a scarcity of research and information around the narrative of sustainable fashion. The lack of analysis and action on the harmful impact of fast fashion has led us to the state we are in today.

2. Sustainable development has been a part of education for quite some time now, but it is vital to include fashion into the various layers of sustainability since it rules a major part of our lives.

3. In order to curb further damage, students need to be prepared from a younger age so that they are aware of the dark side of fashion and can make good decisions about ethical fashion.

4. Learning about this from a young age will help us be more mindful of our consumption patterns, and elicit conscious decision-making while buying any kind of new clothing.

5. A lot of fashion brands have started to incorporate sustainability into their mandate, for which students need to be trained with the knowledge base so that they can maximise and take full advantage of job opportunities.

6. This kind of education would also equip students to come up with feasible solutions benefitting people involved throughout the fashion supply chain as well as address the human rights violations of sweatshop workers.

7. Important concepts like circular economy, grassroot/bottom-up development, upcycling, etc. would get attention and generate discussion and debate, thereby encouraging people to incorporate these in the real world.

8. Lastly, it goes without saying that educational institutions are responsible for providing fashion’s social and environmental impact at the core of their teaching. This education is very much relevant today, and needs to be welcomed by the future generations so that they can create a more sustainable world and not repeat the mistakes of their ancestors.

Only when we offer a path to the youth, through which they can secure a safe future, can we truly say that we have done our job of protecting the planet. We may not live to see this bright day, but we will have ensured that our future generations do.

Written by: Mahima Hazarika 42

Re s o u rc e s f or E d uc ation on th e I m p a ct of Fashion The impacts of the fashion industry go way beyond just setting new and exciting trends. It’s no secret that “fast fashion” negatively impacts the environment and communities around the world. From the glamorous runways to the factories in which our clothing is produced, there is much to learn… but what do we really know about fashion’s global impact and how can we learn more?

There are countless resources available to broaden your views on the fashion industry and educate yourself on the impacts it has on the world. The problem is: where do you begin? The world is always evolving and the fashion industry never gets left behind, so it’s important we keep up with all its changes. Some of us prefer to educate ourselves visually through films and documentaries, while others prefer to bury themselves in books. Whether it’s a novel, a short film, a podcast, or a helpful Instagram account, there is something out there for everyone. Here you will find a variety of unique resources to educate yourself on the global impacts of the fashion industry.

BOOKS The Dirty Side of the Garment Industry: Fast Fashion and its Negative Impact on Environment and Society by Nikolay Anguelov: For someone looking to dive deep into the impacts of fast fashion and have the evidence to back it up, this textbook is for you. This resource is a lengthy text supported by scholarly sources and data. Although this resource may not be for the light hearted, it is packed with information necessary to understand the daunting world of fast fashion.

Made on Earth by Wolfgang Korn: Korn reveals many uncomfortable truths in his book about the fashion industry and what it really means to have clothes on our backs. This book takes a closer look on the inner workings of the fashion industry and how the ugly truths about fashion are often concealed from us. This resource is for someone who is interested in learning about how one small piece of clothing can create a lasting impact.

The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good by Elizabeth L. Cline: If you’re looking to not only educate yourself on sustainable fashion, but make actual changes to your wardrobe, then this is the book for you. Cline created the ultimate guide to building an ethical and sustainable wardrobe that you’ll love. Whether it is a small change or a drastic one, this guide will help you understand why you should make any changes at all.

FILMS The True Cost: This is a 2015 documentary about the clothes we wear, the people who make them, and the impact the fashion industry has on the world. This is an eye opening film that takes you from the glamorous runways to the slums in which many of our everyday clothes are made. If you’re interested in taking a journey behind the scenes of clothing production and its impacts, then this is the film to watch.

RiverBlue: One of the world’s most pollutive industries is fashion and this documentary takes you on a journey to prove it. Not only does this documentary talk about how the fashion industry has polluted many of our world’s rivers, but it focuses on solutions that inspire hope for a sustainable future. RiverBlue also encourages people to shop sustainably and offers resources on how to do so.

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PODCASTS Conscious Chatter: This podcast covers fashion, sustainability, and style. Not only does the host interview world class designers and fashion experts, but she also talks to advocates for farmers and factory workers. You can find a list of the podcast episodes here: https://consciouschatter.com/podcast Wardrobe Crisis: Clare Press, the editor-at-large for Marie Clare Australia, hosts this podcast about the hard truths facing the fashion industry. She focuses heavily on ethics, sustainability, consumerism, and fashion identity. You can start listening to her podcast here: https://thewardrobecrisis.com/podcast/

INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS @thesustainablefashionforum @fashionforgood @fash_rev @diet_prada While all of these Instagram accounts are wildly different, they all discuss the negative environmental, economical, and cultural impacts that the fashion industry has on the world. These accounts are great segues into other in-depth resources as they are a perfect starting point for someone looking to educate themselves on the matter. Everyone has to start somewhere, so these accounts are highly suggested that you follow and read up on.

So there you have it! Although it can be scary to learn something new, these resources will make it easy for you to understand why sustainable fashion is better for the world. Not everyone is able to transform their wardrobe into being entirely sustainable, but there are many small changes where someone can start. Whether you’re looking to make a concrete change in your life or you’re just testing the waters, there is never a shortage of information out there to help you move on your way.

The world is always evolving and the fashion industry never gets left behind, so it’s important we keep up with all its changes.

Written by: Jacquelyn Tantimonaco 44

Wh e re To F ind an E c o -Fr ie nd ly Mask In these unprecedented times, wearing a mask is now the new normal. Unfortunately, with this new normal comes an overwhelming amount of waste and plastic usage polluting our lands and oceans. Face masks and other forms of single-use PPE are being found washed up on shores, river beds, storm drains in cities and even nature trails causing both a health and environmental concern. According to PlasticWasteHub, “if every person used a singleuse face mask a day for a year, it would create an additional 66,000 tonnes of contaminated waste and 57,000 tonnes of plastic packaging.” So how can we combat this fast-growing pollution issue?

For those who are not in the major risk factor of the virus, sustainable face masks are a great way to replace those single-use PPE masks. Not only can they be stylish and match perfectly with your outfit, they can also be practical and suited for your needs like breathability and feel. Keep in mind, homemade and sustainable masks do not replace N-95 masks graded for effectiveness but are an excellent way to reduce and reuse compared to single-use options. If you’re wanting to make the switch, here are 10 great companies and shops you can choose from. These masks are made with a variety of materials such as organic cotton, hemp, wool and more - suited to your every fashionable and practical needs.

GRAF LANTZ Anshin Organic Cotton Face Mask - 1 Mask for $22 Mask available as over ear or over head. Made with 100% Organic Cotton Twill. For every mask purchased, Graf Lantz is donating 10 meals to Feeding America supporting US food banks.

LOLALOVESIT (ETSY) 100% Cotton Reusable Face Mask for Women, Men, and Kids - 1 Mask for $15 Individually handcrafted in LA with a Black-owned mother-daughter team. 100% soft cotton with adjustable ear loops in multiple sizes available.

ONZIE Mindful Masks - 2 Masks for $24 Made from up-cycled multilayer fabric of Full Flex Spandex technology for the exterior with a high performance inner lining and elastic straps. Fabric is stretchy, comfort fitting, quick-drying and breathable. Proceeds will be donated to healthcare workers across America through a donation to the Center For Disaster Philanthropy.

NISOLO Upcycled Linen & Cotton Lined Mask - 1 Mask for $15 Handmade by a Nashville artist. With unique two-tone patterns cut to fit your face, each mask is hand-sewn by local seamstresses using scraps/deadstock materials - a blend of linen, cotton, and hemp and lined with 100% USAmade cotton twill for comfort and breathability.

HYER GOODS Buy 1 Give 1 Masks - 1 Mask for You, 1 Mask For a Worker in Need for $20 Cotton masks made in partnership with the City of Los Angeles and the LA Protects initiative to provide a #millionmasks to essential workers.

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WHIMSY + ROW Washable Masks (S/M) - Buy 1 (For You) - Donate 1 for $10 100% cotton machine washable mask. Limited number made with the plan to donate across various LA locations such as Union Rescue Mission, Downtown Women’s Center, and Midnight Mission. Their website also provides estimated driving emissions from purchasing this specific product.

AVOCADO Organic Cotton Face Masks - 4 Masks for Adult/Children for $30 Initially a mattress company, the brand refocused a large part of their Cut & Sew Department to the production of face masks. Avocado organic face masks are 100% GOTS certified finished products made with 2 layers of organic cotton canvas and simple tie straps with a pocket that allows for filter insertion (filters not included).

GROCERIES APPAREL Organic Cotton or Hemp Face Masks - Buy 3, Give 3 for $15-$30 or Buy 3, Give 10 for $30-$40 Cotton masks are 100% GOTS Certified GMO-free Organic Cotton (2-ply), pesticide and herbicide free. Hemp masks are 55% Hemp and 45% GOTS Certified GMO-free Organic Cotton Linen-like material while also being pesticide and herbicide free. All consumer purchases of the face mask help fund the company’s ability to donate masks to other essential services, while providing living wages and supporting USA manufacturing and chemicalfree ingredients.

ANCHAL PROJECT Organic Cotton Face Mask - 1 Mask for $20 Sustainably made using up-cycled organic and vintage fabric scraps. Promoting a zero-waste initiative, the once larger fabric was hand-embroidered by artisans in India and then cut and sewn into masks by a team in Louisville, KY. All masks are reusable, adjustable, and reversible. The weave of durable cotton barrier provides protection and breathability.

ABBYMIDNITE (ETSY) Handmade Fabric Face Masks - 1 Mask for Between $13-$15 Handmade in the UK with two sustainable fabric layers.

Elastic ear straps are adjustable in the back and left a bit longer to tie a knot or hand sew allowing a better individual, comfortable fit and tighter coverage. The ear straps can be removed/replaced. Masks are reusable and washable.

Written by: Brittany Westveer 46

Ban kr u p t cy and Covid - 19 : H ow Th e s e B ra nd s Were I m pacted From high end to streetwear, fashion brands all over the world have been negatively impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic. As businesses closed their doors at the beginning of the pandemic due to stay-at-home orders, we saw already struggling brands fully decimate; some file for bankruptcy, giving them a glimpse of hope in the unknown future.

While some fashion brands were already in trouble long before Covid-19 arrived, as 2019 brought a “retail apocalypse” forcing many brands to close their doors or file bankruptcy, others simply might not have been prepared enough to withstand the major drop in sales and lack of buying customers. Here are some major fashion brands that have filed for bankruptcy during the Covid-19 pandemic:

J.CREW J.Crew was one of the first major retailers to file for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in early May. While the preppy company was already struggling before Covid-19, sales plummeted when states ordered the stay-at-home order, making the brand rely on online sales. Although the retailer is facing economic trouble, J.Crew and their spinoff brand Madewell aren’t going anywhere. As of early August, the J. Crew Group received concessions from landlords, including one time rent waivers and deferrals, saving up to approximately $70 million this year if sales are projected correctly, Retail Dive reported. The future is bright for J.Crew and Madewell as they continue to reopen stores across the country.

BROOKS BROTHERS As the world switched to working from home, the need for upscale preppy clothing became scarce. The brand best known for its blue blazers and crisp loafers that have dressed 40 U.S presidents filed for bankruptcy in early July.

Brooks Brothers also decided to close 51 stores due to the pandemic, but plans to continue reopening the majority of stores around the country, as CNBC wrote.

NEIMAN MARCUS The luxury department store chain was already struggling financially, so when faced with coronavirus and the lack of buying customers, Neiman Marcus had no choice but to file for bankruptcy in early May. As CNBC reported, by doing so, the retailer secured $675 million in financing from creditors, and projects to emerge from bankruptcy this fall.

J.C. PENNEY The long struggling department store filed for bankruptcy in May. After being forced to close more than 800 stores across the country, and facing other problems due to the pandemic, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and plans to restructure the business. J.C. Penney closed about 30% of its store base, and nearly 240 locations, Business Insider reported. The stores wouldn’t stay empty for long, though; CNN reported in early August that Amazon could possibly take over old J.C. Penney and Sears locations to speed up deliveries.

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LORD & TAYLOR As one of the oldest department stores, being founded in 1826, Lord & Taylor filed for bankruptcy early August.

After closing all stores in March, the company found it hard to bounce back in unprecedented times, leading them to file for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and create a reorganization plan with Virginia court. Their owner, Let Tote Inc., filed bankruptcy alongside after buying the company’s rights, brand, and e-commerce site from Hudson’s Bay Company for $71 million last year.

LUCKY BRAND Lucky Brand Dungarees LLC, which operates about 200 Lucky stores, filed for bankruptcy in early July. The brand best known for vintage inspired jeans and clothing plans to sell its equity-backed company to the SPARC group, which also operates Nautica and Aéropostale. They also project closing at least 13 stores in bankruptcy, according to USA Today.

ASCENA RETAIL GROUP INC. The company that operates Ann Taylor, Loft, Lane Bryant, Justice, and Lou & Grey filed for bankruptcy in July. Known as being one of the nation’s largest sellers of women’s clothing, Ascena has struggled in recent years due to the decrease of foot traffic in shopping malls and the rise of competition.

The company plans to close at least 877 stores, after years of “decking sales and blooming debt,” Washington Post reported.

Written by: Veronica LeMaster 48

it’s

BEING IN GOOD HEALTH

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To p T h ree Pod c ast Pic k s S u p p o r t in g Diversity in We llnes s The wellness industry is not immune from systemic racism. In the U.S., low-income and racially segregated neighborhoods are most likely to be in food deserts, black women are at least three times more likely to die from pregnancy and birth-related complications, and communities of color are concentrated in areas with limited parks and recreation areas making it virtually impossible to take a safe stroll around the neighborhood let alone follow guidelines for a regular exercise routine. Yet when Instagramming #wellness, your feed is inundated with thin, white women soaking in sunshine with a backdrop of bright plants and fresh fruit.

We need more voices representing our most vulnerable populations in order to combat the racial disparities of wellness and lift all our communities into an abundantly healthy life.

Podcasts are an intimate and impactful way to gain direct insight into issues and help advocate for change in the wellness industry. Check out the podcasts listed below and insightfully engage in meaningful conversations aligned with your personalized wellness philosophy. Together, let’s amplify diverse voices and redesign the wellness world to account for the fundamental causes of health inequalities.

Food Heaven Podcast: For the person looking to evolve their food relationship Description: Registered Dieticians Wendy Lopez and Jessica Jones believe in an inclusive food philosophy driven by an appreciation for how food can nourish our bodies, minds, and souls. They explore topics like Organic vs GMO, Balanced Eating on a Budget, and Intuitive Eating all with their unique perspective on how food access, decision making, and interactions impact wellness and self love. Whether you’re looking to heal or diversify your relationship with food, there’s sure to be a topic that challenges you to think differently about the impact of food in your daily life.

Balanced Black Girl: For the person striving to be a better ally for Black wellness Description: Founder Lestraundra “Les” Alfred is a personal trainer and nutrition coach on a mission to bring listeners an honest perspective of navigating the white dominated wellness world. The social determinants of health play an integral role in mental and emotional wellbeing that creates barriers for POC to live a more sustainable, balanced lifestyle. Les helps explore the struggle POC face when trying to coincide wellness with culture.Join her as she explores solutions and support systems through topics such as financial wellness, inclusivity in the yoga space, and Black maternal health. Highly recommended for those looking to support a more inclusive and diverse wellness world that lifts up all women.

Unlikely Hikers: For the person who feels the outdoors should be more inclusive and accessible Description: Join Jenny Bruso in broadening the outdoor enthusiast narrative. Listen to the inspirational stories and experiences of underrepresented outdoorspersons often excluded and unwelcomed from green spaces. The Unlikely Hikers podcast features voices beyond the typical white, straight, fit stereotype of nature lovers and shares how access to green spaces is a public health issue rooted in systemic racism and social inequalities driven by privilege. This is a great podcast to learn how we can all actively change the image of a “hiker” and create a more welcoming community for wilderness recreation and supporting the healing power of nature.

Written by: Ami Patel 50

The Evo lu t io n of Die t Culture in Q uarantine Since quarantine has begun, we’ve all found ourselves with either too much or not enough time to tend to tasks we need to finish. For some people, it’s those overarching cleaning projects like finally selling clothes we’ve kept in storage for seven years. But for others, it seems that the worldwide pandemic has been a time dedicated to working on oneself. Let’s think about that. We are experiencing a worldwide group trauma, and many are making the assumption that this is the time to focus on losing weight, exercising, or eating clean because now there’s no excuse - we have all this time. That’s a cause for concern.

I’ve been struggling with having a good relationship with food for a solid fifteen years, and I’ve noticed how toxic diet culture has become. Over the years I’ve learned several coping mechanisms to manage what to do when I see something triggering, and what I can say to people who continue the narrative that eating food is simply good or bad. When quarantine began, I knew it would be hard to adapt my food and exercise routines to the sedentary state of working from home. I’m someone who genuinely loves to run and take barre classes. In my childhood and adolescence, I danced for about ten years. That community was incredibly toxic about food and body image. My relationship with moving my body has taken a lot of time and personal growth to repair. Under quarantine I’ve lost quite a bit of motivation to keep up with these highly active forms of stress relief, which I’ve grown to accept. As someone who has been through several depressive periods, I don’t want to say I was mentally prepared, but I’ve experienced something pretty similar. Albeit, never a worldwide trauma, but I know what it’s like to not be able to get out of the house due to a greater force. I also know what it’s like to hear that, “if you just exercise and cut out sugar, you’ll feel soooo much better!” from people who aren’t my therapist or licensed nutritionists. I’ve heard it all, when I was never looking for suggestions or any help from peers.

Between March and April, I received a plethora of messages like this from the general media and individuals. I saw so many people suggesting Zoom workouts or home workout plans to keep myself “sane”. This suggestion can feel innocent, helpful, or even productive for yourself. But it’s incredibly important to remember that we never know what a person’s history with food and fitness is. It’s important to really listen to what your friends are saying.

The amount of increasing messages to get rid of the “quarantine fifteen” was quite frankly, disgusting. I’ve grown to be a person who preaches the notion of listening to your body; whether that’s eating when you’re hungry, stopping when you’re full, or finding an activity that matches your energy level. Fitness isn’t about listening to your energy levels anymore, which is how I healed my relationship with exercise. Some days, I want to walk 6 miles and do some stretches. Other days, it feels like I can’t expend any energy unless absolutely necessary. I’ve found so many messages in needing to lose weight, not just keeping your energy levels in check. It’s almost never about your energy levels or mental health, but your physical appearance. Health is not shown through your physical appearance, and so many people forget this. With my history, it’s easy to see this. But for many people I’ve observed in my life and online, orthorexia, the constant need to exercise and stay fit, is more common than you think. With the decreased mobility that the pandemic has caused, it’s clear to see how this mindset has cultivated even further.

As the summer months of June, July, and August came; the narrative of attaining the “summer body” reared its ugly head again. The message of not showing your weight gain during these six months has run rampant. Between June and August, I’ve only observed matters getting worse and worse in terms of how people talk about food and their fitness journey. As people join each other on boats, at the beach, or at restaurants the idea of reverting to our appearance as it was in March before quarantine began has been sneaking around different social circles. The idea of having a beach body by June still entered our media. We are collectively focusing on something that isn’t even being done safely in most states, all while being forced into a worldwide traumatic experience. Why do we need to look like we did before? When I think about this, I think about how unhealthy this mindset is. Our bodies and minds strive to be healthy, but it isn’t linear. It’s okay if you’ve gained weight. It’s okay if you can’t go on that three mile run without wheezing. It’s okay if things before are harder now. This mindset of working out even when your body is telling you not to, is toxic. There’s being tired, then there’s honoring your energy.

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So how have I been responding to these comments since quarantine has begun? I usually try to respond with, “well did you like eating that cookie? What flavor was it? Sounds delicious I’m sure you’ll be happy you ate it later on!”.

Small responses like this might make you feel foolish, but the simple positivity around food can shift a person’s thinking about what they thought was a mistake with their eating. There is value in highlighting the positive rather than the negative, before you go into pointing out why a person decided to make a negative comment. Those small pockets of positivity about food and fitness can spread further than just the conversation you had with your friend about their dessert last night.

Social media or general media can dictate our moods easily. I went through my apps and made sure to only allow certain accounts or authors into my rotation. With social media especially, any time I saw content that made me feel bad for not exercising every day or eating the “wrong” foods, I unfollowed or muted them. Any type of content that can be consumed on social media can feel minimal in the grand scheme of things; but to those of us who spend a good amount of time on any social media platform, these underlying messages can add up day after day.

Something eye-opening that I tried early on during quarantine, was noting every time I felt bad about my food or activity choices for that day. By the end of the day, I noticed that my intrusive thoughts were more often than not. The next day I did the same thing, but repeated a positive phrase in my mind every time I made note of an intrusive thought. This phrase can be anything, for me it was - “You are okay”. It can be as simple as this, or more focused. Whether your affirmation is directly about your food or exercise habits, or the general feeling of safety, there is always something you can repeat to remind yourself that your food and fitness choices will not lead to your demise. Call it a simple Pavlovian response, but this repetition helped me center my thoughts around food and fitness “norms”. You can eat the carbs, you can take a nap instead of exercising, you can take a walk instead of going on a run, you can do what you need or want to in that moment - and you will be okay.

Adapting to quarantine life while learning what is healthy for your mind and body, may not follow suit with diet culture as it is. As someone who has been incredibly in tune with diet culture trends through the years 2010-2020, it is obvious that there is a huge issue in how we talk about diet and exercise. It’s important to look inward, ask yourself why you’re making these comments or how you’re reacting to them. Before I was fully aware my relationship with food was damaging, I never thought of the toxic things I said about what I ate. Examine how your comments can perpetuate toxic culture, and that their impact goes far beyond just that person you were FaceTiming. Ask yourself, is this thought honoring my body, or am I punishing it for enjoying food? And then ask yourself, under a pandemic how you can be gentle and nurture your body instead of berating it. Your body works so hard to make sure you are healthy - give it some love in return.

Written by: Shrija Sriram 52

How E xc e s sive Workouts C an I mpa c t Yo u r Me nstrual Cyc l e Your menstrual cycle is a great indicator of your overall health. Many clinicians now consider the period as the 5th vital sign because abnormal menstrual cycles can indicate potential health problems just like the other vital signs, which include blood pressure, temperature, respiratory rate, and pulse.

Unfortunately, most women receive little to no education on the menstrual cycle and how to support it every month for optimal health and well-being (regardless of whether or not pregnancy is the goal). A 2014 study found that only 72% of high schools in the United States required pregnancy prevention education and only 83.1% of schools required STI prevention education Even worse, women are often conditioned at a young age to believe that periods are dirty and annoying, and speaking about the menstrual cycle should be avoided at all costs. This couldn’t be further from the truth!

If women aren’t taught how the menstrual cycle functions and how things like diet, stress, overexercising, poor sleep, and environmental chemicals can impact the endocrine system, then they can’t make empowered decisions about their health. We must normalize talking about periods and the idea that periods are a natural, necessary, and beautiful experience. A healthy menstrual cycle means that the body is working as it should be!

HOW THE MENSTRUAL CYCLE WORKS A woman’s cycle can be 28-34 days long and has four different phases -- the menstrual phase, follicular phase, ovulatory phase, and luteal phase (the menstrual phase is often combined with the follicular phase). Each phase requires different nutrients and lifestyle practices to optimize hormones and support a healthy cycle. Depending on what phase you are in, you may feel more social or that you have less energy -- this is normal!

Below is a brief overview of the four phases of the menstrual cycle.

MENSTRUAL PHASE -Starts on day 1 of your period and lasts until the last day of your bleed (days 1-3 or 7) -Estrogen peaks and then drops; progesterone production drops (which triggers the shedding of the lining) -Energy is low -Focus on gentle movement like walking and stretching and increase intensity at the end of menstruation if it feels good to do so FOLLICULAR PHASE -Starts on day 1 of your period and lasts until ovulation (days 1-12 or 14) -Estrogen increases -Energy levels are high -Focus on higher intensity movement and try new exercises

OVULATORY PHASE -Occurs around day 12-14 of the cycle -Estrogen reaches its peak; progesterone is low; testosterone surges and then drops -Energy levels are the highest -Focus on high intensity workouts and group workout classes LUTEAL PHASE -Begins after ovulation and lasts until your next period begins (days 15-28 or 32) -Progesterone rises and estrogen continues to rise -Energy levels start to dip as you get closer to menstruation -At the beginning of this phase, you can continue with higher intensity exercises if it feels good but scale back once you reach the end of this phase and focus on lower intensity workouts like walking, yoga, and pilates

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HOW OVER EXERCISING AFFECTS THE MENSTRUAL CYCLE Every time you experience a stressor, the body releases cortisol to activate the fight or flight branch of the Autonomic Nervous System (ANS). If you are chronically stressed, your body is constantly releasing cortisol.

High levels of cortisol is inflammatory to the body and impacts the production of important sex hormones.

Pregnenolone is the precursor to both sex hormones and cortisol. The body prioritizes survival over reproduction, so when you’re stressed, pregnenolone will go towards cortisol production at the expense of sex hormone production. This is why chronic stress can lead to irregular cycles, PMS, acne, low sex drive, and in severe cases, infertility.

Workouts that spike your heart rate, such as HIIT and spin, will naturally spike cortisol. If you are already dealing with high stress levels and anxiety, adding in HIIT workouts is the last thing you want to do. Instead, you’ll want to focus on slow, restorative movement like walking, yoga, controlled weight lifting. This will help you release stress but also limit the amount of cortisol you release.

Doing intense workouts at the wrong time of your cycle can also throw off the delicate balance of sex hormones.

In the first half of your cycle (days 1-14) your resting cortisol levels are low. This means you can focus on higher intensity workouts like HIIT, spin, and running. In the second half of your cycle (days 15-32), resting cortisol is higher. You’ll want to focus on more restorative workouts to avoid cortisol spikes such as walking, yin yoga, pilates, controlled weight training and stretching. Research shows that doing higher intensity workouts during the second half of the cycle can actually turn on fat storage and muscle wasting.

Matching your energy levels and where you’re at in your menstrual cycle to the intensity of your workouts is a revolutionary concept. For decades, women have been conditioned to believe that working out daily at a high intensity will solve all of their health problems only to see it backfire and create hormonal imbalances, weight gain, and negative body image.

Workouts should vary depending on your stress levels and where you are at in your menstrual cycle to support optimal hormone levels and overall health and well-being. Focusing on enjoyable forms of movement that match your natural energy levels during each phase of your cycle can also help you become more in tune with your own body and help you understand your physical needs on a deeper level.

Learn more: https://www.nasn.org/advocacy/professional-practice-documents/ position-statements/ps-sexual-health https://compoundinglab.com.au/hormone-cortisol-the-cortisol-stressconnection-and-pregnenolone-steel.html https://www.floliving.com/infradian-rhythm/

Written by: Taylor Deitrick 54

He a l t h D is p a rities B e twee n B lack a n d W hite People There are health disparities between black and white people in the United States. This means that disease and illness disproportionately affects one group at a greater rate compared to another. Public health professionals have known about this issue for decades, and it is one of their greatest challenges they battle on a daily basis.

Intervening in one way may create unintended consequences in other parts of these communities, so stepping in is trickier than it seems. Creating a sustainable change doesn’t occur just by providing assistance to the affected group; the changes have to be systemic.

The health disparities that exist between black Americans and white Americans are unnecessary. Harvard School of Public Health reports that in the U.S., black people have a higher rate of, “diabetes, hypertension, and heart disease (Health disparities between black people and white people run deep, 2020)”. There is no medical reasoning that black people would be affected greater than white people, except as a result of racism that has been built into the system.

Healthy People is a program released every 10 years by the federal government. This is a public agenda, meaning any person can read and contribute. It outlines the goals and recommendations based on current health data. In both Healthy People 2010 and Healthy People 2020, health disparities were a main objective. Although health disparities have not been eliminated, efforts are being made to reduce these occurrences. Currently, Healthy People 2030 is in the works. Although it is created by health professionals, making your attitudes clear on topics of concern can influence the creators. You can learn more about the future edition here.

Large issues can arise from small factors. One such factor is geography. Because of the interconnectedness of many socio-economic and racial issues, black people often live in neighborhoods with cheaper housing. These areas tend to have unsafe sidewalks, no public parks, and no reasonable-priced grocery markets. Without these features, there is no safe and free area for exercise, no place for safe social interactions, and there is no way to obtain nutritious foods quickly. These circumstances lead to greater rates of disease and inequality. Another factor is access. This includes access to high-quality health care and access to education. Receiving sub-par medical care makes for poor health outcomes. Reduced access to education makes for less job opportunity. This means someone may have a minimum wage job that refuses to provide 40 hours a week, is hard on the body, and is mentally straining. As you can see, one issue can stem from another one further back down the line.

Some cities around the country have made positive changes. Philadelphia saw a decrease in childhood obesity by improving access to fresh foods and putting more of an emphasis on physical activity. This demonstrates that change is possible. Small, incremental changes, as well as systemic changes, must be emphasized in order to eventually reduce the great health disparities that exist between black and white people in the U.S. Ways to Reduce Health Disparities: • Ensure minority representation in healthcare; • Educate physicians on differences in education and living situations and how this can affect medical prescriptions; • Policymakers must correctly understand the issue and changes that can be enacted. Further, communities need to make it clear to their congressperson what they are experiencing and what their needs are; • Continue to research the connection between health and environment.

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Harvard T.H. Chan. 2020. Health Disparities Between Blacks And Whites Run Deep. [online] Available at: <https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/hsph-in-thenews/health-disparities-between-blacks-and-whites-run-deep/> [Accessed 1 August 2020].

Written by: Lauren Klein 55

G o in g B a c k to B asics: H ow C OV I D -1 9 is Shifting O ur Lives More than half the year has gone by since COVID-19 surfaced in 2020 and affected our consumer-driven world. Our lives came to a halt with certain restrictions in place in some countries and extreme lockdowns and quarantines in others. Well-known corporations are filing for bankruptcy, and small businesses are trying to keep afloat with the support of communities. Some people are fighting to keep their jobs, some have been let go or furloughed, some are beginning a new chapter for themselves, and there are others fighting just to get through the day.

With all the uncertainties, one thing is for sure, no matter where you are in the world — we are all struggling and finding ways to cope during this pandemic. How that looks is different for everyone but comparing will not change the fact that this is such an unprecedented time for all. Just because we cannot see how others are struggling, doesn’t mean there’s nothing beneath the surface. We’re all somehow trying to fulfill our basic needs - making sure we still have a way to support ourselves and having a community that can encourage us during these trying times.

COVID-19 is reminding us of the important things in life we might have taken for granted. We long to spend more time with those we love for the nourishment of our souls and to spend more time in nature to make our minds at peace. It’s an eye-opening experience for us all and a chance for us to start anew. 2020 might not have been the year we all hoped for, but it is indeed a moment of clarity. We need to be kind to ourselves first and that means becoming aware of unnecessary things in our life, whether it’s people, items, or mental clutter that we need to let go of because it no longer serves us. It’s not being selfish - and I tell this to myself too - but it’s choosing the things that would rather build us into better individuals capable of supporting each other. It’s easier said than done, but it all starts with the willingness to try.

SO WHAT DO YOU CHOOSE TO LET GO OF TODAY?

Written by: Charlene Timbol 56

T h e B e n e f it s of E ating Loc al ly There are so many benefits to eating locally! From taste to nutrition to safety, locally grown food is better for the consumer and the farmer. You can easily find locally grown food at farmer’s markets, CSA groups, pick-your-own farms, and small grocery stores. Local produce is often more varied as well, meaning you can find more foods that might not be at a traditional grocery store. As you buy produce this summer (and beyond), keep these ideas in mind about why you should buy and eat locally.

FRESHNESS Local food doesn’t need to travel far to reach your table! By cutting out the long trips it takes to get non-local goods from farm-to-table, local goods will be so much more fresh.

TASTE Eating local means you will also be eating seasonal. Summer berries and fall squash just taste so much better when they’re in season! To get the best tasting produce, find what produce your area is known for (such as Jersey tomatoes or California figs).

NUTRITION Fresh picked produce is picked at peak ripeness, meaning it will have the most nutrient bang for your buck.

According to Virtua, “fruits and vegetables begin to lose their nutrients within 24 hours of being picked” (Virtua).

Locally grown food requires less time between harvest and sale, helping to ensure the nutrient value stays intact.

Oftentimes, food imported from long distances requires more time between harvest and sale, so the nutrient value can decrease.

SUPPORTS SMALL BUSINESS AND FAMILY FARMS Local farmers rely on your support to continue their operations. These farms are small businesses, and often family run businesses as well. Their workers are paid a fair wage and you can help reduce the need for large corporate farms. Eating locally can often be cost-effective for your wallet as well. Help support your local economy!

JNIQUENESS I love going to the farmer’s market to find fun goodies! Nothing beats a colorful, funky-shaped heirloom tomato or little mini eggplants.

GROWING METHODS Many local farms are organic or non-GMO. Organic and sustainable agricultural methods are often easy and costeffective for small, local farms. Even if they’re not organic or non-GMO, local farmers are often more willing to be honest and transparent about how the food is grown.

SUSTAINABILITY When you purchase locally grown food, you help preserve and maintain local farms. Additionally, there are less carbon emissions as there is no need for cross-country exports or large trucks carrying the food.

SAFETY With less people handling the food before it reaches you, local food is less likely to have contamination.

Written by: Gabby Guzdek 57

thank

the it’s team EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jen Chavarria COMMUNICATIONS MANAGERS Kapiolani Kassal Natalie Raymores ASSISTANT SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGERS Anjana Ganesh Jasmine Harrison OUTREACH COORDINATORS Kirsty Green Rhiannon Jones Kelsey Lusis

Manuela de Mendonça HEAD COPY EDITOR Mathilda Nassar COPY EDITORS Natalie Robyn Cora White Hannah Schewtschenko

EDITORS Alexis Krcelic Georgia Fish Francesca Goudousaki Nadine Nassar Gloria Wang Brittany Westveer

GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Melissa Gagnon Jane Guo Hilary Ip Ally Petris Rayanne Silva Maddie VanS

WRITERS Sophie J. Boardman Julieta Cano Nicole Coppage Taylor Deitrick Kayla Disibio Maddi Grossman Gabby Guzdek Mahima Hazarika Reha Kakkar

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Lauren Klein Regina Loayza Shay McCoy Marcela Moreno Phoebe Nassar Ami Patel Aayesha Poudel Katie Potter Esme Park Rimsha Gaia Rattazzi Jaci Schreckengost Aly Sickles Shrija Sriram Jackie Tantimonaco Charlene Timbol Meaghan Thompson

check us out i welcometoits

welcometoits.com

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Want to join the team?

We are a group of volunteer writers, graphic designers, copy editors, editors, and more.

Since we are small + new, we currently have no revenue coming in so we contribute our own time to share and write about topics important to us and others. However, an active goal of ours is to make these paid positions in the near future, as well as soon offer internship opportunities. By joining our team, not only do you get hands-on experience (list this as Volunteer Experience on your resume!), you also help us grow our team and space. As we create a diverse space, we encourage anyone, especially BIPOC, to join our team. We are so excited to see individuals wanting to join our team, so this is an updated list of what positions are currently available.

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Career & Money Contributing Writers: This is a new section we are adding, all about assisting those who may need financial and career advice. It’s also a place where you can find tips and tricks with those with experience. You’ll work closely with our editors to write high quality articles. No past experience required, but we would love to see examples of your writing, even if it’s just a paper for school. Since this is an unpaid volunteer position, we can adjust duties to better realistically fit your schedule.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

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Copy Editors: We are looking for individuals to help read through and edit our articles. You’ll check for grammatical/spelling errors, make sure the article reads smoothly, and overall ensure high quality work.

You’ll work closely with our Head Copy Editor. Past experience required. Since this is an unpaid volunteer position, we can adjust duties to better realistically fit your schedule.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits. com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

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Graphic Designers: We are looking for individuals to help create graphics for our social media accounts. You’ll help design engaging content that we will share on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter. We are mainly looking for illustration work, but we may have other projects available. Relevant past experience required. Since this is a volunteer position, we can adjust duties to better realistically fit your schedule.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

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Interested in other areas at it’s?

If you believe this is the space for you, reach out! We are always happy to chat with applicants and work together to find the best place. Relevant past experience required. Since this is a volunteer position, we can adjust duties to better realistically fit your schedule.

To apply, email hello@welcometoits.com with the subject line “it’s | i’m in!”

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