The Design and Technical Development Workshop AVHY Sanction Order No:C-12011/95/2010-11-CC(NR)-5 Organized by:SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K).
On
STAPLE EMBROIDERY CRAFT Sponsored by, Office of Development Commissioner (Handicraft) Ministry Of Textiles, Goverment of India, West Block No.7, R.K Puram, New Delhi Workshop scheduled from 6 July 2012 – 20th July 2012 th
Designer:-Praveen Chauhan
Content Acknowledgement About The Scheme Objective Of Scheme Component Of Scheme Craft Knowledge: Staple Embroidery Craft Aims of Project Sourcing Design Segment Product Development Venue Of Workshop Investigation Snaps Sketches Of Prototype Photograph Of Prototype List Of Prototype Costing Designer’s View Design Development Conclusion Performance cum Achievement Report Designer Profile
Acknowledgment My sincere thanks to all persons who were involved and made this workshop successful and without their proper support and guidance journey could not be fruitful. I am thankful to O/o DC Handicraft for its mega project in various stages and feels grateful for this design and technical development workshop. It comes as a launching pad for the artisans to set the traditional skill on the right track. And last but not the least I want to give special thanks to the artisans of SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERYIC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K) for their lively attitude towards their commitment for learning the craft and workshop.
ABOUT THE SCHEME. It is a model project of the office of Development Commissioner Handicraft, Ministry of Textile, Govt. of India for self sustain development of handicrafts through community empowerment. The vision is establishment of a vibrant and member control community based enterprises with the overriding objectives to enable artisans to take up economic activities for sustainable development through a collection mode. Under the project artisans are empowered to become active entrepreneurs-cum-primary stake holders in the process of development linking them to domestic and overseas market. Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna aims at promoting Indian handicrafts by developing artisan’s clusters into professionally managed and self reliant community enterprise on the principles of affective member participation and mutual cooperation. The thrust of the scheme is on a projected need based integrated approach for craft persons landing their empowerment
The main objective of the scheme •
To organize artisans cluster into Self Help Groups or co-operative societies with a view to enabling them to take up economic activity for sustainable development through a collective mode.
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To empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary stake holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible platform for easy access to domestic and overseas markets.
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To upgrade artisan’s skill through appropriate design and technology intervention to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and equipment to produce value added items.
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To provide adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and productivity and to enable artisans access to a larger market segments, both domestic & international.
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To ensure effective collective participation of all members involved in production and marketing process for optimal growth in human resources, production, business and income.
The components of the scheme •
Social: development awareness on self help and community participative organization of self help groups empowerment of women through TAC, inculcation of leadership qualities, organizations behavior and management, formation of economical viable enterprise.
•
Technological:
increasing
productivity,
product
and
design
development,
standardization of product, technological up gradation for capacity building, quality control measures with well defined specification, effective packaging, and networking through IT. •
Marketing: Assimilation of market intelligence, product identification as per market segmentation, appropriate market and product mix, building up of business enterprise, relationship management of assisting market outlets, test marketing through financial exhibition/fairs, effective publicity through appropriate media mix.
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Financial: pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and credit and external through financial institution and funding organization). Welfare: Health package insurance, group insurance, work shed, housing-cum-work shed, functional literacy and health nutrition and sanitation, communal harmony.
Craft Knowledge: Staple Embroidery Craft Staple Embroidery Craft is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides of the fabric each side having a different color. There is no wrong side. The same design is produced in different colors on both sides. This is purely hand based embroidery done with needle, thereby called Staple Embroidery Craft. Since its cost of making is quite high so it is comparatively costlier. But saying that one cannot take away the real ethnic look and quality of embroidery that this type has. This type of embroidery is more thin and clear as it is done by hand. Full credit goes to Kashmir art and artists who make this tough task look easy and cope up with high production quantity demand in time. This art true lies in them.
Process:The Staple Embroidery Craft refers to a type of hand embroidery, traditionally done on pashmina hand woven woolen, Tosha fabric. It employs extremely fine stitches applied very close to each other creating intricate patterns. The stitches are executed using coloured threads and a fine steel needle. While there are many different stitches used for rendering these patterns, the Staple Embroidery Craft predominantly employs the stitch which is a kind of fine couching stitch with a reinforcing stitch laid over it. Also uses the darn stitch and stem stitch. The button hole stitch, herring bone stitch, chain stitch, satin stitch and knot stitches are also used but in limited proportions. This embroidery craft from Kashmir is distinctive because of the predominant use of this stitch, both in the outlining and the filling up of the motif and even in the rendering of petals and leaves .
The Staple Embroidery Craft is traditionally used to ornament either the edges with trailing borders, or placed on the front panels or sometimes the entire surface of kurtas, with small buties and netlike patterns. In fact, the Jamawar is a type of highly elaborate, allover pattern where the ground colour of the pashmina fabric is not visible at all. The typical motifs used in such high value embroidery are traditional almond motifs (badamdaar) or floral patterns of Iris or rose motifs.
Aims of Project
The aims and object of the trust to carry out the development of Handicraft and under such activities to give encouragement to the so much weaker, poor, needy disregard and down trodden peoples and to increase their life style. And to carry out their own life by himself and to increase their development self defense Trust and encouragement so that they can get the target of their development (sustainable development) and they can found stability. It is always found that un-necessary expenses are to be carried out regarding the sequences and traditions which occasion carried out by the people, religious programs, marriages and other Type occasion program then they can collect much more amount (thrift and credit) and such amount can use in the development works and can get the sustainable development. Scheme sectioned by Government of India, Ministry of Textiles, and Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicraft), New Delhi is organized by SUKHNAGARI STAPLE EMBROIDERYIC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K) After the base line survey within these area carried out and during the group meeting, discussion and after visit of this region it is found from the talking with main people of this region that even after having good knowledge many people regarding Handicraft specially Staple Embroidery Craft, the peoples of this region are engaged in preparing the products which are in demand for the domestic market. By the analysis of survey it is very much hard make the development of Handicraft, provide the training, guidance and energetic circumstances tools and techniques with new design developments ,equipment has been provided during the workshop. For the high quality it is necessary the training and guidance and exertion. For the successful conducting of the Design Workshop with the experience of trust and with the support of group working this trust has carried out awareness of the public and encouraged to the people.
Sourcing
Fabric, Embellishments, material sourcing was an important task. The already existing Fabric base used by the organization. Better quality Fabric, threads that are smooth and have a softer & smoother appeal was introduced to the organization. Needles, tracing sheets, Brush that must be used for embellishment was also sourced. Most of these come from Delhi and Jammu where there is a great manufacturing setup. Some samples were also purchased from the showrooms of the two markets for comparison and to educate the workers of the organization towards understanding quality of design aesthetics, quality of workmanship, quality of Needle Work & finishing l as well. The markets visited were DC Cloth Market, Gandhinagar Wool Market & New Wool Market. The other markets visited were Vijay Market (Premnagar), Gangyal, Vivekananda Chowk, Satwari market and Nanak Nagar. The directions for design ideations were then frozen. An important step towards ideation was to first develop a sizing pattern for new embroidered products so that they could be taken forward for easy production later and also to grade them to different larger or smaller sizes. Simultaneously, new designs were sketched, traced and put together for development.
Design Segment
The products developed can be categorized into the following: A
Based on markets: i) Lower to mid market products ii) Up market products
B
Based on utility I) Accessories
ii) Home products
Above were the parameters for all ideations. Designs were divided catering to both the markets and can be distinguished categorically based on design aesthetics and the amount & quality of work. This would directly relate to pricing, as price for raw material and CMT of different products has been calculated accordingly. Also, each product line has been designed as a collection, but only one prototype sample has been realized. This has given the artisans a wide range of product portfolio and based on their test marketing, they can be taken forward for SS/12 and AW/13. Apart from the styles based on technique & product, they also are being suggested for various market types as follows: Ai / Bi (lower-mid Mkt product - Apparel Accessories) Ai / Bii (lower-mid Mkt product - Home Product) Aii / Bi (Upper Mkt Product - Apparel Accessories) Aii / Bii (Upper Mkt Product - Home Product) This has been done purely to focus on retail presentation of each product.
Product Development
Fabric: Tosha Wollen wool Other Fabrics
Techniques: Tracing Work Stitching Work Embellishment Work
Materials Used: Needles, pencil, threads in different colors, brush, sezer
Detailing Directions: Simple Clean Minimal
Products: Assorted Single With Some Coordinate
Venue of the Workshop : Village – Kawoosa Khalisa, Budgam, J&K (India ).
The Clusters in the Area have been engaged with handicraft activity and have been producing Quality goods and have been sincerely going on with this vacation. Technical Guidance were to been offered. The almost Villages in Srinagar have cultural background so it was easy to work with the villagers regarding design and technical development workshop. Villages are Connectivity to the main town . But The Craftsman are suffering from difficulties of raw material and being the victims of middleman ship. The new generation is getting away from the craft because of lack of proper guidance about the craft and its growing future.
Date of the Workshop – 6th July 2012 –20th July 2012 ( total days – 15)
Investigation Snaps Mr. A.m. Malik (CTO), Arshrid Chesti (TAC) and ( Secretary Of Ngo- Sukhnag Ari Staple Embroidery Ic Ltd) Nissar Ahmed Khan With Designer Praveen Chauhan and artisans where all the prototypes were checked and appreciated.
Artisans showing their work and getting feedback from the officials.
LIST OF THE PROTOTYPES
DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP IN STAPLE EMBROIDERY CRAFT, DATED-06-07-2012 to 20-07-2012
PRODUCT NAME
PRODUCT CODE
PRICE/PCS.
SIZES
PAIR
01
Dress Material
SASE/PC/12-01
1175/-
4.5 mtr
02
02
Dress Material
SASE /PC/12-02
1275/-
4.5 mtr
02
03
Dress Material
SASE /PC/12-03
1150/-
4.5 mtr
02
04 05
Shwal Shwal
SASE /PC/12-04 SASE /PC/12-05
1050/1100/-
88”x36” 88”x36”
02 02
06
Shwal
SASE /PC/12-06
1100/-
88”x36”
02
07
Shwal
SASE /PC/12-07
975/-
88”x36”
02
08
Cushion Cover
SASE /PC/12-08
550/-
16”x16”
02
09
Cushion Cover
SASE /PC/12-09
550/-
16”x16”
02
10
Cushion Cover
SASE /PC/12-10
600/-
16”x16”
02
11
Dress Material
SASE /PC/12-11
1050/-
4.5 mtr
02
12
Dress Material
SASE /PC/12-12
1050/-
4.5 mtr
02
13
Dress Material
SASE /PC/12-13
1250/-
4.5 mtr
02
14
Dress Material
SASE /PC/12-14
1050/-
4.5 mtr
02
15
Dress Material
SASE /PC/12-15
1200/-
4.5 mtr
02
TOTAL AMOUNT
15125/- Per Set
Costing
The costing for each product has been calculated with the following parameters : Raw Material Cost:
Fabric,Threads,Needles,
Trim Cost:
Embelishments , Colurs
Stitching Cost :
Sampling, Cutting & Making
Overheads :
Stationary, Tracing Sheets, Conveyance & Expanses
The cost of each samples has been calculated separately.
Design Devlopment Lower & Middle Markets: Contonment Market, Satwari,Sanjay Nagar Market, and all adjoining areas.The products sold are mostly apparel products comprising majorly of women accesories which are price sensitive and are never displayed as collections or as ensembles. The assortments are mixed and carry a lot of variety. These are mostly picked from wholesale dealers and sold at many stores. There is no individual identity in the store in these areas. Similar products with similar price structure are available in all the stores and there seems to be an aesthetic monotony & retard. The embellishment carried on these apparel products is heavy. Nevertheless, design intervention could playa crucial role in improving the quality and the aesthetic appeal of the products which do have a potential without really disturbing the existing market, it's consumer base and demands.The products are mostly in Cotton,Shiffon etc. with strong Nice Deisgns. . The price ranges from Rs 550/- to 1275 (MRP)
The Upper Market: Link Road, Gandhi Nagar, Gole Market,Raghunath Bazar.The product range includes women’s accessories , men’s accessories , home furnishing items which are mostly Indian and some western looks using hand crafted techniques.Stores like Bandhej (Satwari),Parijat (Nanak chowk), Raghunath Bazar (Yougal Sons), Vanza (specialists in Hand Embroidery, MG Road), RamaKrishna, Coverups (Fun Republic) and other small boutiques in Gandhi Nagar areas sell traditional Indian & Western decorative pieces.
Conclusion The 30 artisans has been proactive in it's carft (Staple Embroidery Craft) sponsored by Ministry Of Textiles (Handicrafts),Govt. Of India,New Delhi has helped them towards looking at new concepts, better quality, new fabrics and material. The enthusiasm and initiative taking strengths of the women help in executing the development of the prototype. The artisans could participated in many exhibitions and also explore the domestic retail and export markets. Orders could easily be taken for working of Staple Embroidery Craft specially. A step towards their own retailing at multibranded outlets in J&K has been forwarded by identifying stores nd has a positive future. The Women folk regularly meet once in a month & share the information. The 15 days workshop Organised by SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K). which keep their products or also give sustainable orders for the good impression of the artisans.
Thanks.
Performance Cum Achievement Report The Design and Technical Development Workshop was conducted on the Staple Embroidery Craft from 6rd July to 20th July 2012 Organized by SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD, NOWPORA KAWOOSA BUDGAM, (J&K) after obtaining due approval from the office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts). During the Project 30 artisans had participated. Mr. Praveen Chauhan were engaged as Designer. 15 (Fifteen) prototypes (02 sets) on Staple Embroidery Craft were developed during the project and one set of prototype, as per list enclosed and documents has been deposited with the Assistant Director O/o Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), J&K and receipt obtained from the Assistant Director O/o Development Commissioner (Handicrafts).
Designer Profile Praveen Chauhan Empanelled Designer (NO-D-2/4(75)/DTW/ER/2010-11) O/o Development Commissioner (Handicraft) Ministry Of Textile, (Govt. Of India). Mobile no -09711923423,09555525523 E-mail add- pravinpravi@gmail.com PERSONAL PROFILE A highly motivated individual with a passion for excellence and hardworking team player. CAREER OBJECTIVE Fashion Designer position with a dynamic fashion-forward company where I can apply my unique combination of fashion design training and market knowledge and experience to produce collections of fresh, beautiful, and marketable Design. As a result of studying and working in the fashion industry, I am now ready to apply my formal education in design and fashion. ACADEMIC QUALIFICATION •
International Institute Of Fashion Designing.
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National Institute Of Fashion Technology
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A N S College (BIEC)
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National Open School (CBSE)
Pune, Maharastra (B.Sc) Bangalore, Karnataka Jahanabad, Bihar. (12th Standard) New Delhi. (10th Standard)
WORK EXPERIENCE • • • •
Fashion Designer – I worked as knitwear designer for high street knitwear supplier. My role involves fashion trend researching, shapes and swatches designing and sampling, technical specs, pattern cutting, yarns sourcing Assistant Designer - collaboration for man and woman knitwear’s collections as responsible for the graphics and technical drawings with Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. Database creation for the technical drawings of man knitwear collections. Stage on Fashion Design - Shahid Aamir on back stage, where my models were Katerina kaif,Anchal Kumar, Nikhil, Zulfi, Sahil, Jeniffor , Karan , Rakesh Bapat,Sayali bhagat etc for SUN CITY, Pune P.M.P.L (Export House) - I worked within a team of three the fashion knitwear
designers and was responsible for overall manufacturing technology. My role involved communicating with manufactures, designing special knitting patterns to meet style requirements and applying cutting theory. PROFFESIONAL EXPERIENCE Design custom garments for clients. • Attend fashion shows and review garment magazines and manuals to analyze fashion trends, predictions, and consumer preferences. • Sew together sections to form mockup or sample of garment or article, using sewing equipment. • Direct and coordinate workers who draw and cut patterns, and construct sample or finished garment. • Arrange for showing of sample garments at sales meetings or fashion shows. • Confer with sales and management executives, or clients regarding design ideas. • Examine sample garment on and off model, and modify design to achieve desired effect. • Integrate findings of analysis and discussion, and personal taste and knowledge of design, to originate design ideas. • Sketch rough and detailed drawings of apparel or accessories, and write specifications, such as color scheme, construction, or material type. • Draw pattern for article designed, cut pattern, and cut material according to pattern, using measuring and drawing instruments, and scissors. RESPONSIBILITIES •
Analyzed and researched fashion trends. • Obtained and reviewed samples of new textile products through attending trade shows or visiting manufacturers. • Selected textiles including fabrics, fasteners and other materials. • Presented concepts to director and team. • Developed prototypes for fittings and adjustments. • Continuously developed new materials and techniques. INDEPENDENT DESIGN PROJECT •
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Created a photograph essay titled Bharat as part of an assignment for B.A.G Newsline Network Pvt. Ltd. I have Designed Fest T-Shirt for tech-envision for CUSAT, Kerla university.
CURRENT DESIGN PROJECT • Development going on for LAKME FASHION WEEK. • Development going on for VIBRANT FASHION WEEK. SCHOLARSHIPS AND AWARDS •
Won Award for best Fashion designer in Pune Inter College Fashion Show.
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Won First Prize in Annual Fashion Show Award ELIXIR in 2006 for INIFD Won First Prize in Annual Fashion Show Award ELIXIR in 2007 for INIFD Ranked 1st in a graphic design competition to redesign the logo and identity of YFE (2009)
TECHNICAL SKILLS • • • •
MS Office Corel Suit Illustrator Adobe Photoshop
PERSONAL DETAILS Father’s Name
Pramod Kumar Singh
Date of birth
1st Jan 1985
Languages Known
Hindi, English
Marital Status
Single
Religion
Hindu
Nationality
Indian
Date: Place: (Praveen Chauhan)