A glittering tale of d Antwerp Diamonds
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Contents 02
Ambassador & gatekeeper
Oath to the nation
18
04
Myths & legends
Rubens & diamonds
20
06
Romance of diamonds
Art of polishing
22
08
Passion for diamonds
The golden glow
24
10
Object of desire Fit for a king
26
14
12
Rise of Antwerp
16
A Living testament
By royal appointment
28
The master cut
Luxury for everyone
30
Brand new spark
32
Since 1447, Antwerp has been synonymous with quality diamonds and superior craftmanship.
For decades, HRD has provided the necessary platform to diamond dealers members and consumers from all over the world.
Ambassador & Gatekeeper Antwerp and diamonds have been closely linked since the 14th century. HRD was established in response to the needs of the diamond trade and industry. Our mission is to act as the official representative of the diamond community, protect and insure the diamond industry's future through research and education, raise awareness of consumers worldwide, and assist governments all over the world in supporting the growth of the diamond industry.
Diamonds are elusive and breathtaking...
It is of no surprise that women love to own diamonds.
The romance of Diamonds Diamonds are treasured beyond all other gifts.
It was said that Cupid's arrows were tipped with diamonds which have a magic that nothing can ever quite come close to. The very word "diamond' comes from the Greek "Adamas" meaning unconquerable, suggesting the eternity of love. The Greeks also believed the fire in the diamond reflected the constant flame of love. Over the centuries, diamonds have always been shrouded in mystery and romance before finally acquiring its unique staus as the ultimate gift of love.
Passion for Diamonds 14th century
Until the 15th century, only kings wore diamonds as a symbol of strength, courage and invincibility. In the 13th century, Saint Louis, King of France decreed that only the Virgin Mary was worthy to adorn this precious stone. It was only until the reign of Charles VII of France that this edict was broken for the king's paramour, Agnes Sorel (1422 - 1450). She is believed to be the very first woman to wear diamond jewellery. Thus began the romantic saga of the diamond.
Object of Desire 14th century
The first woman known to be presented a diamond engagement ring was Mary of Burgundy (1433-1477). History has it that Archduke Maximilian of Austria was advised that, "At the betrothal, your grace must have a ring set with a diamond, a symbol of eternal love and happiness." Maximilian took the advice and as he proposed, slipped the diamond ring onto the third finger of Mary's left hand, where it was believed that the "vein of love" ran from the finger to the heart. The placing of the engagement ring is viewed as the sealing of a love bond. When Mary said "yes", a tradition was born.
The rise of Antwerp 14 - 16th century
Thanks to its harbour, Antwerp was a place of unlimited opportunity and by the beginning of the 16th century, the city has secured a permanent position in the international trade. The diamond industry, established in the 15th century expanded considerably due to strong commercial relations with its neighbours. The Antwerp World Diamond Center was born!
A living Testament 14th century
The very first document concerning the Antwerp diamond trade is the decree against the sale of false stones of 1447, an official warning that "no one within the city of Antwerp was to buy, sell, pawn or pass on any false stones imitating diamonds, rubies, emeralds or sapphires, no matter how imitated or falsified, under the penalty of 25 ducats, one third of which is for the ruler, a third for the city and the other third for the informer". Already in that time, Antwerp assured a well regulated market in which traders and consumers could be confident.
Crafting the Master cut 15th century
Lodewijck van Bercken, a mid-15th century diamond polisher, was said to have discovered the process of working one diamond with the aid of another and was thus credited with the invention of polishing. He was instructed by Charles the Bold to work three diamonds: the famous Saucy stone worn by the sovereign. The second, a brilliant invented for Sixtus IV and eventually, a triangular diamond mounted on a ring with two small hands which was later presented as a token of appreciation to the French king, Louis XI. In honour of Lodewijck van Bercken, a statue in his likeness was erected at the Meir, the prime shopping street of Antwerp.
An oath to The nation 16th century
With a booming trade in the diamond industry , masters hailed from all parts of Europe to learn the fine art of polishing. It soon became clear to the diamond processors that there had to be some form of quality control if they wanted to uphold its high standard of diamond polishing. This decree successfully implemented in 1585 dictated that everyone who processes diamonds had to swear and promise to abide by all rules of the flourishing diamond trade: "I hereby swear from now on I shall be faithful and obedient to the Superintendents and Senior members of the Guild, I shall respect the privileges, Ordinances." Thus, consumer confidence was already a top priority for the 16th century in Antwerp.
Rubens & Diamonds 16th century
Antwerp inspires. This prosperous city has in the past decades produced many internationally acclaimed old masters, such as Rubens, Van Dyck, Jordaens and more. The great master, Peter Paul Rubens had a lifelong affair with diamonds. His treasure trove of diamonds suggested that he had more than a passing interest in all that glitters. Some of his private collection of diamonds and precious stones were worn by his second wife, Helena Fourment on her wedding day in 1630.
Object of Desire 14th century
The first woman known to be presented a diamond engagement ring was Mary of Burgundy (1433-1477). History has it that Archduke Maximilian of Austria was advised that, "At the betrothal, your grace must have a ring set with a diamond, a symbol of eternal love and happiness." Maximilian took the advice and as he proposed, slipped the diamond ring onto the third finger of Mary's left hand, where it was believed that the "vein of love" ran from the finger to the heart. The placing of the engagement ring is viewed as the sealing of a love bond. When Mary said "yes", a tradition was born.
The art of Polishing 17th century
As technology progressed, the diamond polishing techniques evolved. An example of an Antwerp polishing workshop around mid-17th century depicting a handcutter rubbing two diamonds against each other while the polisher standing near the scaif applies oil to his brush. A third worker operates the mill. The 17th century techniques still form the basis of today's diamond cutting factories.
The golden Glow 18th century
By the end of the 18th century, Antwerp enjoyed great fame as a polishing centre. This magnificent gilt silver monstrance set with diamonds and rock crystal testifies to the fine craftsmanship of Antwerp polishers in the 18th century. The monstrance was made to order by a church warden (a diamond trader himself) from Spain who had the diamonds polished and set in Antwerp.
Fit for A king 18th century
In the 13th century, Louis IX of France established a law reserving diamonds for the king. This bespeaks the rarity of diamonds and the value conferred to them at that time. In 1787, Louis XVI had the old-fashioned rose-cut diamonds of the French Crown repolished into brilliants by Antwerp craftsmen as no one in Paris could fulfil the job adequately. An empty Antwerp Carthusian Convent was converted into a diamond polishing factory with 23 mills for this very purpose.
By royal Appointment 20th century
Despite difficult economic times and an oppressive international atmosphere, Antwerp still maintained its leading role in the diamond trade. In December 1936, Queen Astrid of Belgium attended the inauguration of a major diamond exhibition, wearing an art d co diadem with eleven large brilliants, presented to her by the nine Belgian provinces and two legislative assemblies.
80% of wedding engagements were consecrated with diamond rings.
Luxury for Everyone And that does not include anniversaries, weddings, births, special promotions and personal accomplishments. Diamonds have become an affordable luxury for today's consumers, who appreciate the intrinsic value of diamonds. For millions around the world, the fire, the mystery and magic, the beauty and romance is no longer restricted to the nobility or the very wealthy. A simple solitaire says all that the heart feels but words cannot express.
Most of all over the centuries, diamonds have always been seen as the ultimate gift of love.
luxury for everyone
HRD is the hallmark brand for previously known Diamond High Council (Hoge Raad voor Diamant).
The brand New spark The 'star' symbol reflects our passion for diamonds with strong affinity to Antwerp being the core of the diamond industry. Together, we make a good team. The HRD word mark personifies timeless modernity and elegance, with the addition of a contemporary symbol communicating the essence of the HRD brand spirit. Our goal is to communicate a more consistent and visible brand in which our heritage is reflected through commitment and involvement of the HRD brand mark.
the new hrd identity
The HRD corporate mark communicates the values of the HRD brand.
www.hrd.be Headquarters: Hoveniersstraat 22, 2018 Antwerp Belgium Tel: +32 (0)3 222 0511 Fax: +32 (0)3 222 0695 Email: hrd@hrd.be