Agenda Dec/Jan 2012 FREE
art, travel, design and lifestyle
Pretoria's Cafe Culture
Art - Riaan van Zyl Travel - Incredible India Deco - Welcome to Sunset Avenue
Lifestyle supplement by WealthWise magazine Click to read!
Contents
Art
page 4 page 8
Riaan van Zyl The Gallery at Duncan Yard
Lifestyle
page 1 4 Pretoria's Cafe Culture
Agenda
Travel
Publisher
REO Media Solutions
page 26 page 39
Incredible India Westin Mumbai
Managing Editor
Denisa Oosthuizen denisa@wealthwisemag. co.za
Contributors
Denisa Oosthuizen, Carla Rossouw
Advertising
sales@wealthwisemag.c o.za
Subscriptions
admin@wealthwisemag.c o.za
Contact
Design
+27(0)82 81 9 2820 editor@wealthwisemag.c o.za www.wealthwisemag.com
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Comments or suggestions? Email us at editor@wealthwisemag.co.za. Dec-Jan 201 2
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Art
Riaan van Zyl
R
iaan van Zyl's sketches are truly unique in their style and construction. They bring a strong, yet gentle view of his world and focus on the nostalgic beauty, movement, pattern and life found around the world. As an Artist, Riaan van Zyl is always looking for new and exciting projects to work on. A lot of reading, visual research and thought goes into every single work. This creates a lot of substance that the artist then leaves open for the viewers to come to their own conclusions. Riaan speaks passionately about his art. “I usually get very much into what I do. I would forget the world around me and end up being covered in charcoal as much as the canvas”, he says with a smile. Riaan’s approach to sketching and painting is refined and expressionistic. He is concerned with the movement and quality of marks within his overall compositions. A patchwork of mark making including stripes, complex lines combine in harmonious brush strokes within his different but recognized subject matter. Many collectors and art critics marvelled at the way he confidently commits paint and charcoal to his large canvases. Riaan's work is truly different and reflects his focus of becoming one of the most recognized artists in the world.
Exhibitions Van Zyl has worked with known artists and has been part of an extensive number of group exhibitions. Riaan is a member of the 'ART Professionals Worldwide', 'Association of Art Museum Curators' and 'Dubai Business Network' among others. He worked within a closed society of artists in Kalkbay and has exhibited around the world. He continues to exhibit regularly both locally and internationally and is currently showing his works in galleries around Cape Town, Johannesburg and Pretoria. He has recently hosted his very successful 1 6th solo exhibition -'Pulse' in conjunction with Vergenoegd Wine Estate at the 'NGR' in Buitengracht Street, Cape Town.
"I would forget the world around me and end up being covered in charcoal as much as the canvas" Dec-Jan 201 2
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Art
What motivated Riaan van Zyl to become an artist and choose painting/sketching?
I wanted to be an artist since I can remember. While travelling through Europe, I was moved by the history and wealth of art. People there use art to enrich their surroundings and life. That was something that spoke to me. I decided to do art professionally while selling my art on piazza Navona in Rome. It is there that I found that people responded to my work and that I find a lot of pleasure in this. On my return to South Africa, I wanted to keep creating and enriching life with art. I love to work with line and form and although I studied different mediums, working with charcoal just progressed naturally. I now combine oil painting and charcoal to create strong emotive images. How would you describe your work? Do you have a ‘favourite’ object or scene in mind when you choose to paint/sketch?
My work is bold, expressive and a lot of visual research goes into every work I create. For me it is necessary to try and bring the viewer closer and make him/her actually look and confront the work. I do this by carefully considering the subject matter... for the last three years my work concentrated mainly on trees and the sketching of trees in the landscape. I must say that I am very fascinated with trees and find them always in balance, sculptural and growing against gravity with great strong lines and form. Thus I think that trees are my favourite objects to draw at the moment.
Do you draw inspiration from the African continent in your works?
Since I returned from overseas, I find that Africa has always been boiling in my blood. It is what I know and what I feel the closest to. From long road trips through the Free State and Karoo, camping out in the bushveld or sleeping on the beach, there is inspiration in every landscape and every community in this country that cannot be found anywhere else. What is the message of your latest art exhibition, “Pulse�, and how is this different from your previous exhibitions?
In the last few years my conscience turned towards re-thinking the way we live and do things. My art has focused on the environment and living greener without giving up our comfort. In other words, being clever about how we do things. I now create works of the best quality from recycled materials. I worked on Xanita boards with recycled car oil and oil charcoal. The main theme running through all the work in 'Pulse' is that trees form an almost cardiogram against the surrealist skyline, creating a pulse of the earth that we humans share every day. If your works of art could be described in just one word, what would that word be?
'Layered' text by Denisa Oosthuizen photos by Riaan Van Zyl
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Art
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A
mong the medieval turrets, spiral staircases, narrow cobbled alleys and vintage-inspired shops of Duncan Yard lies an unconventional gallery where modern art is given a well-deserved twist in a both welcoming and engaging atmosphere. The Gallery at Duncan Yard speaks out presentday art without the white, cubic walls and the intimidating atmosphere of galleries in general.
The circular space still gathers the nostalgic feeling of Duncan Yard’s appearance, but it is the variety and density of modern art creations that makes The Gallery so different. The limited space was cleverly used to incorporate as much as paintings, sculptures and installation art as it can accommodate, starting with the outdoor walkways and ending with the sunlit courtyard.
The Gallery at Duncan Yard The Gallery we see today is the creation of owner, curator and artist Cecily Pohl and manager, artist, stylist and chef Robert van den Berg. First opened as a student art gallery (initially upstairs), the space was given a whole new look with Cecily’s arrival in January 2007, herself a full-time artist who previously used to manage the fine arts department of a retail store in Pretoria, while still taking part in exhibiting her own work after hours. A year later, The Gallery has doubled in volume, incorporating the corner courtyard and establishing itself on the ground floor. “I have reopened the gallery with the money I received from selling my own art. The aim was to create a platform for young and upcoming unknown artists, to build in them the confidence they need to exhibit at bigger galleries. We often look at students’ work and final exam exhibitions in search of new talents. Most importantly, we wanted the gallery to be in a public space, where everyone can feel at ease”, says Cecily. The gallery now stocks impressive works from over 70 local artists. Along with exhibitions of her own and Robert’s pieces, the Gallery invites works by guest artist, carefully selected in terms of technique, concept, content and size. One can virtually find everything from Perspex jewelry, wooden lamps, ceramics, mixed media work and collage, printed t-shirts and animation to oil paintings and sculptures and even local art magazines. Most of the art is brought by little known artists and it’s not surprising at all that this exposure gives them the chance of being noticed. Such is the case of self-taught artist Hosea Matlou, now an award-winning artist, whose range “pen and fire” is now in demands at solo exhibitions and overseas. Regular exhibitors include new artist Thelma van Rensburg, painter Louis van der Heever, Kobus Walker, Ronel Kellerman, Estie van der Merwe. The Gallery also features works of established artists such as Helena Hugo, a frequent exhibitor at ABSA Gallery in Johannesburg and Nicolene Louw, whose animation paintings and printed t-shirt make great humouristic gifts.
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Art “We strongly feel that everybody should be able to buy art. We have both art collectors and the general public among our clientele. It helps that we have very affordable prices and unique art. We try to keep our gallery very different and we’re lucky to be in this public space”, says Cecily, who reports clients from as far as Switzerland, England and France. Cecily’s own work has its own strong signature design. It’s contemporary, described as a mixed media work incorporating collage, paint, crayons, metal and wood, but at the same time evokes a rustic, nostalgic feel. She likes to use blues, orange and rusty browns in her compositions, most of it landscapes and people portraying the South African look and feel. Sculptor, stylist and chef Robert van den Berg adds his own distinctive touch to the gallery. His works represent an unusual green, functional design, incorporating elements such as wire, cement and found objects into architectural creations. “We’re moving towards green design”, says Robert. I mostly recycle elements – branches, wood and metal - to recreate new works of art and revive old memories by using antiques and old objects brought by other people. Basically I build everything from nothing and give it a meaning”, he adds. For Robert, the journey into art began with a piece of left over cement transformed into functional art. His creations caught Cecily’s eye and now include oil burners, pot plants, lamp fittings, sculptures and carvings, all exhibited in The Gallery’s courtyard. The gallery’s sculptor is also a qualified chef and regularly exhibits his unusual work of art at other local galleries. There’s no doubt that The Gallery at Duncan Yard is a popular place. There’s always something fresh inside and the artwork exhibited changes on a monthly basis to keep the visitors interested and guessing. And to make it even more fun than it already is, Cecily and Robert often organize events and workshops to interact with the public at large. “We had so much fun with the World Cup on our shores – we had a strong focus on our African arts and culture and we created small souvenirs for tourists to take home. We also had a Women’s Day workshop in August to celebrate aspiring female artists and some of our work is regularly exhibited next door inside Papa’s Restaurant, at various functions and other exhibitions if requested”, says Cecily.
“We strongly feel that everybody should be able to buy art. We have both art collectors and the general public among our clientele. It helps that we have very affordable prices and unique art. We try to keep our gallery very different and we’re lucky to be in this public space”
The Gallery’s events and projects are another reason to keep in touch. A couple of years back, the owners organized a special exhibition of works by children of the Art Cradle Project, a non-profit organization aiming to teach life’s values to under privileged children by means of art. “We started with a group of children from Sunnyside, Pretoria that encourages the use of creative arts. They had never been exposed to art, didn’t know what a painting or gallery was”, said Cecily. The public was invited to support the children’s very first exhibition and purchase their art works at a nominal amount. The Gallery also attended the “He(art) in the Garden” small exhibition, annually held in a private home in Centurion, where art lovers truly feel at home. But perhaps the most spectacular events is the Christmas exhibition, a perfect occasion to pick up unique and affordable small gifts and presents. “We are focusing on theme-orientated exhibitions and events. It’s a concept we have started with various embassies – Italian, Mexican and Indian for example – which brings together elements that apparently don’t mix in unusual artwork. This way we encourage artists to bring out their creative spark”, explains Cecily, whose idea of organizing a “Boere Chinese” expo might just be a good, fun start to get in touch with South Africa’s creative voices.
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Art The Gallery at Duncan Yard is so much more than a place crammed with affordable original art. Both Cecily and Robert would call it an inspirational journey in African art. Leaving the gallery empty-handed is hard to imagine – the venue’s magic feel will follow you everywhere you take your purchase with you. And that is just one of the reasons of what makes The Gallery a mustvisit destination. text by Denisa Oosthuizen photos by Denisa Oosthuizen
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Lifestyle
Pretoria's Cafe Culture
S
outh Africa’s administrative capital has seen a bustling café culture society since the early 1 900s. We uncover some of the greatest street style coffee spots in the Jacaranda city, with delicious cappuccinos and the occasional deli, art gallery or shop. Enjoy!
Café Riche is the oldest coffee shops and bistros in Pretoria. Situated on Church
Square in the very heart of Pretoria CBD, Café Riche was originally established in 1 905, closed down and re-opened in 1 994. The pictures on the walls and the wooden furniture tell a rich history of the city, being instant attractions. Famous for its mix of local tourists, international visitors and VIPs, the quaint street coffee shop is unpretentious, with fresh pastries, sandwiches and daily specials and a fast and friendly service to match with. Order a cafe latte or creamy cappuccino (R20), lay back and watch the passers-by through the tall glass windows or stay outside on the wooden benches. Popular food choices include sandwiches, Mediterranean pastas, Tabouleh style vegetables and summer salads. For a light snack, go for a fresh sandwich – the salami and mozzarella sandwich served with rye brown bread (R45) and butter is delicious. Café Riche is more than a hot spot for bistro lovers. Fresh pastries are baked daily from 6am to midnight and the bistro is fully licensed, with several famous Belgian beers on the menu. The place regularly opens for concerts and events. Every last Friday of each month, known as the Philosophy Café, sees a multi-cultural event with famous lectures from local and international speakers. Café Riche is located at 2 Church Square, Pretoria central. Visit www.caferiche.co.za for more information.
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Lifestyle
Tribeca Coffee Co. is a popular place among locals for its friendly, buzzling
atmosphere, synonym with the bustle of city life. The walls inside are covered in impressive past and present photos and the outdoor vibe is great. The food complements the ambience with extensive options for breakfast, lunch or dinner, including salads, wraps, burgers and pizza. We relished in the Hot Dog Duo (R48) and the Chicken Caesar Wrap (R60), both delicious. The best part is their coffee specialties, in any way you might think of: hot, cold, frozen or iced. The Frozen Mocha, a frozen latte with chocolate syrup (R27) is out of this world and certainly addictive. Tribeca Coffee Co is well worth a visit for its decadent coffees and state-ofthe-art coffee roaster (the company has its own impressive coffee factory). Launched in 1 996 in Pretoria, Tribeca has grown into a playful and cosmopolitan brand, with a countrywide network of 55 cafes and a huge crowd of followers. We are definitely fans of their coffee cuppa. There’s a Tribeca Coffee Co. at the Design Square in Brooklyn, in the vicinity of Brooklyn Shopping Mall and another in Pretoria’s CBD, 220 Vermeulen Street, Mutual and Federal Building. Visit www.tribeca.co.za for more details about the brand’s rich history and coffee shop locations.
+27 Design Café is different. Doubling as a designer hot spot and gallery,
with art and local design visibly on display, exhibiting the work of young Pretoria designers and photographers, the café has its own urban street vibe. Breakfast or lunch is served outside overlooking Hatfield’s busy Duncan Street or in the courtyard, where the student crowd often meet for a quick drink and bite (the place is a walking distance from Hatfield Gautrain Station and the University of Pretoria). A huge bonus is the free WiFi zone. The menu is simple, mainly consisting of croissants, sandwiches and mini burgers at very affordable prices (R30 on average). The chicken breast, sundried tomato and olive croissant is heavenly and the cappuccinos and smoothies are just great. Highly recommended for a light snack or lunch and fairly priced designer gifts, this is a real gem. Look out for the monthly exhibition openings with live music. Find +27 Café Design on the corner of Duncan and South Streets, Hatfield and check their Facebook page (27 Cafe) for latest updates, news and exhibitions.
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Lifestyle
Café 41 is best known for its buzzling, welcoming and cosmopolitan
atmosphere and great selection of food, from Italian paninis to full Mediteranean mezze platers. Both and indoor and outdoor eatery, it’s the outdoor laid-back ambient we love the most. Brunches are a pleasure in the outside quaint little garden, complete with a fish pond, in Eastwood’s Village Café 41 . There are a couple of Café 41 franchises around Pretoria, the original located in Groenkloof. The cosy café with continental fare has a nice selection of coffees, hot cappuccinos, espressos, frappes and iced coffees. The upside down cappuccino, with layers of espresso, milk and foam served in a tall glass (R20), is highly recommended. For breakfast or lunch, try one of their gourmet sandwiches or design your own with the fillings of your choice from an extended list. We loved the small Italian olive Panini with smoked chicken and Rigatto cheese and the smoked beef with haloumi cheese (R35 each). If you are in a hungry mood, the menu offers salads, pasta and meals, including a variety of seafood and meat dishes. Freshly baked cakes, Turkish delights and ice creams complete the savoury experience. With orange burnt walls, classy contemporary furniture and a retro-inspired menu, Café 41 has its own personality. The extensive menu and the wine pairing recommendation for the mains (a good selection of wines is available) make it a winner experience even for the amateur foodies. We are definitely coming back, even just for the mezze platters! There’s a Café 41 at Eastwood Village in Arcadia, corner Eastwoods and Pretorius Street, one in 57 George Storrar Street, Groenkloof and if you are living in Joburg, you might want to try the newly opened Café 41 in Sandton Eye, corner Rivonia and West Street, opposite Gautrain Sandton station. For more information visit www.cafe41 .co.za.
Carlton Café and Delicious is a quaint hip street-style coffee shop, daytime
restaurant and deli in the popular Menlo Park suburb, Pretoria East. With a few select pavement tables and an enviable menu with wholesome, seasonal food made with the freshest ingredients, Carlton Café is a favourite among locals thanks to chef-patronne Rachel Botes, a law graduate turned out cooking aficionado, and her inventive dishes. Expect breakfast and lunch fare with a twist, like the French-style three egg omelets served with sun-dried tomatoes and buttered spinach or the oven toasted grissone with beef biltong and creamy blue cheese, served with fresh papaya and sweet chilli sauce. The menu has everything from deli sandwiches, ciabattas, sarmies and croissants to salads, prego rolls, main dishes and delectable cakes and tarts. There’s so much to try, but to make it easier for you, look out for the recommended daily specials written on the blackboard. I couldn’t resist their spicy deboned chicken breast served with mushroom, leek, new potatoes and sherry sauce (R72), paired with a small cappuccino (R1 3,50) on a Tuesday lunch meeting. It was absolutely delicious. If you’re not a coffee drinker, enjoy a variety of chillers, lemonades, fruit juices and soda, but do bring your own wine to accompany their food as the premises are not licensed.
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Lifestyle If you want to bring the flavors home, try their deli fare, Delicious, where jams, olive oils and baked goodies can be bought. Carlton Café and Delicious are a best-kept secret and gem for delicious and unusual food that will make you come back for more. Carlton Café and Delicious is located at 71 1 3th Street, Menlo Park, in Menlo Park Center (opposite Hazelwood shopping center). Visit www.carltoncafe.co.za for details.
Boston Kitchen and Deli has been an institution in Pretoria since December 2007. This intimate, Parisian-style street deli and coffee shop, also referred as Boston Café by its connoisseurs, is famous among locals for its home-made cooking fare, decadent sweets and delicious coffee. With less than 20 tables, inside the deli and spilling outside on the pavement, it is the perfect place for a quiet meal or cappuccino.
Situated between the suburbs of Menlo Park and Hazelwood in Pretoria East, Pretoria’s unmistakable coffee district, Boston Deli delights with its unique food fare, from weight-and-pay lazy lunch and dinner buffets (vegetables, salads, curries, grill) to an a la carte menu with toasted sandwiches, paninis, pancakes and gourmet burgers. Breakfast is open daily until 11 am, with various dishes to choose from, including omelets, French toast or croissants (prices ranging from R20 to R60). For lunch, we tried their delicious bacon and cheese pancakes, topped with black pepper and golden syrup (R32) paired with a creamy cappuccino (R1 2). The light menu (prices ranging from R30 to R80) is so varied, with toasts, pancakes, prego rolls, salads, burgers, pasta and bakes, that it’s just difficult to indulge in just one choice: a good reason to come back, whether you are bringing a friend or a business partner.
Deli(cious) Besides the eatery, Boston Deli offers a complete shopping experience, with a deli and a gift shop with random artworks and fashion items (the vintage lover would be certainly pleased).
If you are looking for more than a cappuccino and snack, try their sumptuous dinners, with fillet steaks, chicken schnitzel, lamb mint pie, pork ribs or homemade duck confit as most popular dishes (prices ranging from R75 to R11 0). Ask for the ever-changing specials and you might just be surprised. And don’t forget the sweet treat – their cakes are delicious. Boston Kitchen and Deli is situated on the corner of 1 6th Street and Hazelwood Road and is open from Monday to Sunday (dinners from Monday to Saturday). There is limited space available and no reservations are made. For more information, visit www.bostondeli.co.za.
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Lifestyle
Pure Café is the place to go for seasonal, fresh, wholesome and comforting
food in Pretoria. The simplistic menu features all-round café favourites such as paninis, salads, pastas and wraps made with the freshest ingredients. Even vegetarians have their fair share of great green pasta, muesli or home-baked ciabatta and the extensive drink menu has everything from lattes to smoothies and non-alcoholic cocktails. Recently, a wine list has been added to the menu. You can’t go wrong with the Paradise Explosion, a blend of peach, pineapple and mango smoothie served with coconut flakes on top (R25) or the Divine Intervention Salad with chicken, bacon, baby spinach, haloumi and toasted almonds, topped with a honey and mustard dressings (R53,95). We absolutely loved the combination of flavours and the food presentation. The little details and the designer ambience with striking greens and whites make Pure Café a fabulous place to enjoy breakfast or lunch. The service is friendly and unobtrusive. There’s a great bakery and deli on the premises should you want to bring fresh bread or tasty fresh made cakes home and catering is also available. Pure Café is located at 1 37 Thomson St. West, Colbyn. Call +27(0)1 2 342 1 443 or visit www.purecafe.co.za for the latest updates and news about Pure Café.
Karoo Café combines delicious food with a creative hub atmosphere. Situated in the Karoo Lifestyle Center, the open spaced venue has an adjoining art gallery and a bookstore, with local art exhibition changing every couple of weeks.
The food is fresh and rich in flavor, with a good selection of light lunches, salads, all day breakfast and dinner fare. For a healthy lunch, try the Fusion Chicken (R45), lime marinated chicken breast served with a citrus, red onion, banana and avocado salad or the butternut and blue cheese quiche (R45) and order one of their delicious smoothies (R26). We were delighted with the “Assegai”, a mix of acai, banana, blueberry and apple juice and “Soul Mate” with blueberry, raspberry, banana and apple juice. The lifestyle hub also includes a pottery studio, a nursery and gift shops, to complete your Karoo experience. Karoo Café is located at 1 41 Lynwood Road, Die Wilgers, Pretoria, opposite Willow Way Center. For bookings or details call +27(0)72 408 0909 or visit www.karoocafe.co.za.
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Lifestyle
Pretoria's Cafe experience does not end here. Try the al-fresco Milkplum Cafe, situated in the heart of Pretoria Botanical Gardens on Cussonia Avenue, also a good choice for events and conferences; tuck in delicious mezze platters and sandwiches in the country-style 1 8th Ave Bakery Cafe, located on 232 1 8th Avenue, Riviera; try clasic cuisine with a twist at contemporary chic Full Cream Cafe on 89 Pony Street, Tiger Valley Office Park, Hazeldene or go for huge croissants and the upmarket street vibe at The Tea Cafe, Waterkloof Towers, corner Long and Milner Streets in Waterkloof. There's plenty to discover when it comes to Jacaranda city's buzzing cafe scene. text Denisa Oosthuizen photos Denisa Oosthuizen
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Travel
Incredible India
N
amaskar (Hello)! Visiting the Republic of India for two weeks, covering one National Capital territory, three states and four cities does not begin to describe all that incredible India has to offer. Although this visit only gave a small peep into the country and its people, I have gained fresh insight on what it means to live in the seventh largest country in the world, being second (only to China) in terms of population, which stands at over 1 .2 billion people.
Delhi
It is interesting to note that the Indian economy is the world’s eleventh largest by nominal GDP and fourth large by purchasing power parity. Following market-based economic reforms in 1 991 , India has become one of the fastest growing major economies, and is considered a newly industrialized country; however, it continues to face the challenges of poverty, illiteracy, corruption and inadequate public health. At the time of my travel in April 2011 , one Rand equaled 6.5 Indian Rupees (INR).
Delhi , the capital of India, dating back to 1 450 BC, has historically gone through three eras: the Lal Kot and the middle ages, the Old Delhi during the Mughal area in the 1 7th century and the New Delhi, developed by the British and leading into independent India.
Today the city of Delhi is home to more than 1 2.6 million people and still growing, featuring a beautiful new airport since 201 0, built just before the Commonwealth Games. Delhi is in Northern India and a hub for many international destinations in Asia, Middle East and Europe. We stayed in South Delhi at the very pleasant Lutyens Bungalow, a guest house offering 1 7 rooms, sparkling clean pool, garden with cute squirrels and parrots, as well as the resident dogs. The guest house has very informal and relaxed atmosphere and is centrally located to reach the airport, New Delhi station, Connaught Place, Khan Market, India Gate, Humayun’s and Safdarjang’s tombs.
Lutyens Bungalow has spacious, comfortable rooms, delicious local vegetarian and nonvegetarian meals, as well as other light snacks. The staff is very friendly and helpful and I will forever be grateful to the owner, Shukla, for sharing her valuable information on moving around in Delhi as a female traveler.
The guest house refers to Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens (29 March 1 869 – 1 January 1 944) who was a major 20th century British architect, known for imaginatively adapting traditional architectural styles to the requirements of his era. He has been referred to as “the greatest British architect” and is known best for having an instrumental role in designing and building a section of the metropolis of Delhi, known as New Delhi, which would later on serve as the seat of the Government of India. In recognition of his contribution, New Delhi is also known as “Lutyens’ Delhi“.
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Travel
India Gate
In collaboration with Herbert Baker, he was also the main architect of several monuments in New Delhi such as the India Gate; he also designed the Viceroy’s House now known as the Rashtrapati Bhavan. For more information about Luytens Bungalow, visit www.lutyensbungalow.co.in . Moving around in Delhi, like anywhere else in India, with taxis and auto rickshaws , is an experience like no other. I am inclined to say that it is impossible to describe; one has to experience it in person. The bottom line is that without nerves of steel and a horn you will achieve nothing. Surprisingly, we have had many close shaves in the taxi and auto rickshaw but seen no accidents during our visit. Note that a large percentage of the auto rickshaw drivers are illiterate and poor English speakers. The only words they can communicate in English is referring to the price. Showing them a map or a business card of the address where you are staying is totally ineffective. Fortunately, they ask around for directions and you are quickly on your way to your address. ATM’s (auto teller machines) posed quite a challenge and I experienced some difficulty withdrawing cash. It worked on day one and three but not on day two, when I needed it most. It is also quite common for ATMs to run out of cash by mid day. The best alternative currency to have on hand is US $.
Shopping in Delhi Connaugh Place is
a commercial hub of New Delhi with offices, restaurants and shopping, well worth a visit, while Khan Market offers a smaller and cheaper shopping experience.
The Parliament Building in Delhi Due to only spending one and a half day in Delhi, I managed to see only a few of the famous landmarks, namely the India Gate, designed by Herbert Baker and Edwin Lutyens, the war memorial commemorating 90 000 Indian soldiers being killed fighting for the British during the World War I and Rajpath, a wide street flanked by gardens and fountains linking the Presidential residence with the India gate, also featuring Parliament buildings and the National Museum. The Presidential residence or Rashtrapati Bhavan, is the official residence of the President of India. I have also visited New Delhi Station , with very clear instructions from the owner of the guest house as to what to do, more importantly on what not to do: do not linger, do not talk to anyone, just go straight to the stairs leading to the first level and buy my ticket for Agra. It all went without a glitch, actually I could even explain the process to a French couple, Stefan and Olivia, who went and bought their train tickets for Agra for the next day. I regret not having the time to visit the Ref Fort, the Jama Masjid mosque, as well as Humayun’s and Safdarjang’s tombs.
Agra Agra, with a population of approximately 1 .4 million, is in Uttar Pradesh, the state also known
as ‘the Northern State’ and referred to as the Hinduism and Hindi heartland. I travelled with the train from Delhi to Agra. The Shatabdi Express leaves the New Delhi Station at 06:1 5, returning at 20:30. It is a two hour express trip in both directions and much better than the other option I had, which would have taken approximately three hours. I was prepared for the worst, expecting crowds and people hanging out the train. I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy a train journey similar to anywhere else in the world. The coach was clean, air-conditioned, train was on time, breakfast and dinner were served and due to the departure and return times, I enjoyed the maximum time in Agra. All of this cost a mere INR 790. Please note that there are also cheaper, much more crowded coaches without meals or aircon included.
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Travel Taj Mahal
I met Audrey from Paris, France; she sat next to me on the train and was also travelling on her own. We started chatting and decided to spend the day together. In retrospect, that was a great idea because we could share the thrill of the Taj Mahal, share the cost and somehow just feel more comfortable being two women in strange country. Arrival at Agra Cantonment (Agra Cantt) station was easy and we managed to secure an auto rickshaw for the day. We made a good choice, because driver Sameer went out of his way to entertain us and show us the most important sights in Agra. He also took us to a local restaurant, some shopping options for fabric and a marble demonstration. With Sameer’s assistance we managed to see a lot of what Agra has to offer for just INR 600 for the day.
Taj Ganj is an area adjacent to the Taj Mahal with shops and mostly inexpensive
restaurants and accommodation options. Audrey pre-booked at the Sheela hotel, a very basic hotel but a good choice for a night or two in Agra. The hotel is only a few metres from the East Gate entrance to the Taj.
Taj Mahal is truly a very impressive structure, overlooking the Yamuna River, built over more than 20 years and completed in 1 653. The romantic tale behind it makes it even more special.
I also learnt that the white and red marble used to build the Taj Mahal and brought from Makrana, near Amjer in Rajasthan (a state bordering Uttar Pradesh on the Southern side) is translucent. Entry to Taj Mahal is INR 750 for foreign visitors and you also receive a bottle of water and shoe covers in an attempt to preserve the Taj Mahal for many more generations. The entry fee for locals is only INR 1 0 per person.
Agra Fort is situated two kilometers North West of the Taj Mahal. Built of red
sandstone, it was completed in 1 573. The sheer size of this Mughul stronghold, with a perimeter of approximately 2.5 km, makes it a very impressive structure. Admission fee is INR 300 and if you can show your Taj Mahal entrance ticket, you get INR 50 discount. After arriving in Agra, I realized that the different sites are quite spread out and was pleasantly surprised when I almost literally bumped into my French friends from Delhi, Stefan and Olivia, at Agra Fort. I have also visited two other tombs; Itimadud-daulah , also known as the Baby Taj , was built before the Taj Mahal and was the first building in the Mughul era to be faced entirely in marble. The second tomb, Chini-ka-rauza, built between 1 628 and 1 639, belonging to a Persian poet, is of Persian design and the only such building in the area.
Mehtab Bagh and Mehtab Gardens , on the opposite side of the Yamuna River,
directly opposite the Taj Mahal, gave an uninterrupted view of the mausoleum and the tapered minarets on each corner.
At Green Park, a local restaurant with a small garden, I enjoyed Dal Masala, Cheese Naan and a cold drink for a mere INR 1 80 (approximately R28). Shanti Lodge, in Taj Ganj area next to the Taj Mahal, is the perfect place for a drink on the roof, watching the Taj as night descends on Agra. Agra Fort
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Travel We had a busy day and achieved quite a lot, but unfortunately did not experience the local specialities of petha (crystallized pumpkin), ghazak (rock hard candy) and dalmoth (crunchy mix made with black lentils). Seeing that I only spent one day in Agra, I did not have the time to visit the ghost city of Fatehpur Sikri , a city built between 1 569 and 1 585, 40 km southwest of Agra. Should one stay in Agra for longer than a day, visiting this former imperial capital is recommended.
Patna Patna, with a population of approximately 1 .6 million, is an hour and half flight from Delhi, towards the northeast. Patna is the capital of Bihar state and one of the oldest cities in India, dating back to the sixth century BC. Patna is located in the North Eastern part of India and borders Nepal. Located on the south bank of the Ganges River, a lifeline of water making this a very fertile area, Patna is unfortunately an area that needs to cope with flooding during the monsoon season, which takes place annually between June and September. We crossed the river by using the Mahatma Gandhi Bridge en route to the village of Muzaffarpur, and were amazed to see that the bridge measured more than five kilometers. We used Go Air to fly from Delhi to Patna at a cost of INR 5 083 and were very impressed with the brand new aircraft and the good service on board. Note that there are a number of cheap domestic airlines in India with regular and convenient daily flight schedules all over India. They include Jet, Jet Lite, IndiGo, Kingfisher and SpiceJet. We stayed at the Maurya Patna Hotel, opposite the Gandhi Maidan park. Although this hotel is definitely not on a five star standard, we did enjoy our stay, the food was good and I managed to enjoy a guided tour of the kitchen, learning quite a few things about Indian cooking. This hotel has extensive conference and function facilities. Some interesting experiences and thoughts on Patna include strolling through Gandhi Maidan park in the city centre, generally used by locals for playing cricket and enjoying time outdoors. The Gandhi Memorial is a must visit. It is interesting to note that Mahatma Gandhi spent 11 9 days of his life in Patna, on his numerous visits spending between one to four days at a time. The Gandhi Museum sheds more light on his time spent in this area. Bihar state is also the first centre for Buddhism in North India.
Golghar
Whilst in Patna it is recommended to visit the Golghar, a huge grain storage house dating back to 1 786. One can climb the 1 43 steps to the top and enjoy a great view of Patna and the Ganges. The Patna Museum and Khuda Bhaksh Oriental Library, although run-down, is also worth a visit. We enjoyed a very tasty dinner at Elevens on Frazer Road , where most of the better local restaurants are situated. This restaurant is owned by the well known Indian cricketer and captain Kapil Dev. The food was great, very reasonably priced and the service was good. For five guests, a main meal including soft drinks and beer totaled at around IND 3 000. The meal included roti, fish tikka, nargisi kofta (lamb), murg noorani korma (chicken), dhal and steamed rice and although we tried our best, we could not finish it all. In Patna, once again, we experienced road travel in India. We travelled to Muzaffarpur, approximately 1 20 kilometers from Patna. It took us 5 hours, from 1 2am to 5pm, due to traffic and single lane roads with road works currently underway. There were lots of trucks involved with the construction of the new road and building of bridges. Luckily we returned in the evening and it only took us three hours, from 7pm to 1 0pm, on our return journey. The reason why we did this road journey was to visit a plant of Husk Power Systems . Indians are world leaders in decentralized generation and distribution of electric power. Husk Power Systems lighted the first village in India from its first 1 00% biomass based power plant that uses discarded rice husks to generate electricity. It happened in August 2007 and today there are 60 mini-power plants installed that power 25,000 households in more than 250 villages and hamlets, impacting the lives of approximately 1 50,000 people in rural India. For more information on ‘Electrifying Rural India’ visit www.huskpowersystems.com .
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Crawford Market in Mumbai Patna is not a tourist centre, only at most a stopping point for travelers en route to Buddhist sites. During my six days in Patna I did not encounter any non Indian / Asian women. The area has also had numerous problems with safety and tourists are advised to be careful and to check the status of the area before travelling.
Mumbai Mumbai is situated on the east coast of India, in the state of Maharashtra.
Known as Bombay until 1 996 (the name change was very unpopular initially), Mumbai is in many ways the gateway to India and for good reasons. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1 869 made it easy to reach India from Europe. Today, Mumbai is a hub for many international flights and the shortest route / direct flight from South Africa to India, just around eight hours flying time. The second most populated city in India and the fifth most populated city in the world, Mumbai has a deep natural harbor and it is also the richest city in India, with the highest GDP of any city in South, West or Central Asia. As of 2009, Mumbai was named an Alpha world city, meaning a global/world city or sometimes alpha city or world centre, namely a specialized city deemed to be an important node point in the global economic system.
The concept comes from geography and urban studies and rests on the idea that globalization can be understood as largely created, facilitated and enacted in strategic geographic locales according to a hierarchy of importance to the operation of the global system of finance and trade. Mumbai also incorporates one of the biggest slums in Asia, namely Dharavi, an area of just 1 ,7 square meters, with a density of almost 600.000 people per square meter. By comparison, Delhi and Mumbai have an area of less than 600 square meters, with a population density between 20.000 and 30.000 per square meter. Looking at the information above, I can only say that India is an incredible country. In spite of the challenges of population density, poverty, illiteracy, malnutrition, corruption and inadequate public health, the Indian people that I have seen and spoken to have an energy and a sense of entrepreneurship that I have never encountered anywhere else in the world. I am humbled by the way they live, and in spite of their circumstances, they see an opportunity around every corner. Although they can drive you nearly insane with their ongoing attempts to sell you anything and everything, most of the time they are ready with a big smile when you ask for information or want to take a photograph. My three exceptional and life changing experiences in Mumbai are visiting the Dharavi slum, with an estimated 5 000 businesses and 1 5 000 single room factories. It provides a cheap alternative, where rent was as low as US$4 per month in 2006. Not surprisingly, Dharavi exports goods around the world. The total (and largely illegal) turnover is estimated to be between US$500 – US$650 million per year! Daravi slums
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Travel Dabbawallahs (spelling differs from different sources) is the name given to
the approximately 4 500 to 5 000 packed lunch carriers who deliver freshly cooked meals (in dabbas or tiffin boxes) from between 1 80 000 to 200 000 suburban kitchens to offices in downtown Mumbai. Each Dabbawallah earns between IND 4 000–6 000 per month. In 2002, Forbes Magazine found its reliability to be that of a six sigma standard, a business management strategy where 99.99966% of products manufactured are statistically expected to be free of defects thus 3.4 defects per million. In a recent survey it was discovered that the Dabbawallahs make less than one mistake in every 6 million deliveries, despite the fact that most are illiterate. One can witness the action every business day from either Victoria or Church gate stations at approximately 11 .30am.
Dhobi Ghat, in downtown Mumbai, is the place where local men (Dhobis)
wash clothes and other articles from all over Mumbai. It consists of a large area of rows of open air concrete vats (wash pans) where washing is soaked, thumped and hung to dry. The area was developed and the water is supplied by the municipality. We have spoken to some locals in Mumbai making use of this service and one can hardly believe that white laundry returns from there spotless! Furthermore, some other sites well worth a visit include Gateway of India, the city’s defining landmark; built in 1 924, it has an interesting history, but today is mainly crowded by locals and tourists, feeding the pigeons and people watching; Prince of Wales Museum, now known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Museum , with its beautiful white dome; Victoria Terminus (station) now known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus , built in 1 887; a very British building, although very few of the millions of passengers using the thousand plus trains every day notice the architecture; the Mumbai University with the beautiful Rajabhai Clock Tower, another very British building, also built also in the late 1 800s. One can also visit Oval Maidan , opposite the university, for informal cricket matches, family outings and more people watching and Crawford food market and the central bazaar, where you can find anything and everything and the more you haggle, the more interesting the shopping experience becomes. Other sites to consider visiting are Marine drive and Chowpatty beach , with beautiful views of Back Bay and Mani Bhavan , now a museum, but former Bombay residence between 1 91 7 and 1 934. The Bandra-Worli Sea Link is an astonishing cable-stayed bridge which links Bandra and the western suburbs of Mumbai with Worli and central Mumbai, and is the first phase of the proposed West Island Freeway system. All eight lanes were opened to traffic on 24 March 201 0.
Food
Street food in Patna
I have not quite mastered the eating with the right hand technique, mainly due to the fact that I am left handed and eating with the left hand is not cool in India. The food is also very saucy, which causes quite a mess for the inexperienced right hand eater. Although South Africa is home to a huge Indian population, I have never had a two week intense Indian food experience and other than India being an incredible country, I had a great foodie experience. Some interesting tastes and perceptions are listed below: ! Gulab jamun, classic Indian sweet made from deep fried dough balls served in syrup ! Jalebi, flour batter deep fried and soaked in sugar syrup, the end result looking like deep fried onion rings in batter, often served with breakfast. It reminded me of South African koeksisters. ! After the meal, anise seeds and small sugar cubes to clean the mouth and freshen the palate ! Ghee, clarified butter used instead of oil or to flavour food; the result, amongst others is the most delicious potatoes (alu) ! Lassi, yoghurt drink served salted or with fruit (sweet) ! Chia, tea, sweet and made with milk, offered to visitors everywhere ! Pani, water; not being used to the water, all visitors are advised to drink only bottled water ! Vegetables, mainly gaajer (carrots), gobi (cauliflower), kaddoo (pumpkin), piaz (onions) and okra (also referred to as ladies fingers) cooked with ghee, ginger and some spices (Masala), usually mild ! Dhal, curried lentils; sometimes a broth, traditionally served as an accompaniment to any Indian meal; I have never realized there are so many different types and accompanying flavours, some mild, some quite hot for my taste
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Travel ! Riata, chilled yoghurt flavoured with spices, some mild and some not so mild to my palate, sometimes with diced tomato and cucumber; usually served as accompaniment to the main meal ! Cardamom, a very versatile spice used in rice and meat dishes and most desserts (the vanilla of India); also used in tea and as a mouth freshener ! The bold use of cinnamon, coriander, cumin, fenugreek and ginger, not to mention cayenne pepper, chillies and garam masala (translated as hot spices) It’s easy to be a vegetarian in India and in my case I preferred the vegetarian options as the meat and meat cuts, often sold open on the street, are not very appetizing. Prior to travelling to India, I was familiar with roti, naan and poppadums. I never realized that there are such a wide variety of other bread and pancake type options. My favourites include: ! Appam, south Indian-style rice pancake with holes and soft in the middle ! Chapati, unleavened bread made of wholewheat flour and bakes on a round griddle-dish called a tawa ! Dosa, crispy, savoury, south Indian rice pancake ! Iddli, south Indian steamed rice cake ! Phulka, a chapatti that has been made to puff by being placed directly on the fire Another personal observation is that I like to cook a four or six course meal for four to six guests. In India it is definitely a case of ‘the more the merrier’. For religious festivals or at traditional weddings, the temple kitchens often serve meals to hundreds or thousands of people and they do not stop till the last one is served. Last, but not least, one can easily fall into the trap of traveler’s diarrhea, in India also referred to as Delhi belly or Bombay belly, usually caused by contaminated food or water. It is recommended not to drink tap water at all, but always bottled water. Also it is not advisable to eat raw or seemingly fresh food, especially on the street, e.g cut fruit, lettuce, tomato, cucumber. Although some juice bars look very inviting, the unwashed glasses pose a serious risk for the more sensitive western tummy. Two weeks is not nearly enough time to learn about Indian cooking and although I toured the Patna hotel kitchen, I would love to spend quality time in an Indian kitchen. My consolation prize at the moment is my ‘Simple Indian Cookery’ book by Madhur Jaffrey. India is a truly incredible, remarkable experience. Namaste and Shukriya (Goodbye and thank you)
Westin Mumbai Garden City Hotel
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Travel
Luxury and comfort Westin Mumbai Garden City Hotel has 32 floors, restaurant, lounge bar, gym, spa with convenient access to an international business park and shopping mall.
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e concluded our trip to India in Mumbai, staying at the five star Mumbai Garden City hotel, a Westin hotel, part of the Starwood Hotels and Resorts Worldwide. This hotel is suitable for both business and leisure travelers.
The hotel opened in January 201 0. The ground floor welcomes guests to a double volume, spacious and modern reception area, a ballroom and Prego, an authentic Italian restaurant and deli, suitable for quick lunches or a longer, more relaxed dinner. The Westin Grand Ballroom seats 200 pax banquet style, with a private pre-function area leading out to an outside area also used for functions, seating 300 pax banquet style. This outside area is weather permitting. The first floor offers a fully equipped business centre as well as a variety of meeting rooms for smaller groups (1 0–30 pax) and boardrooms (8-1 4 pax). It also incorporates the Westin Executive Club. The entertainment zone is on the fourth floor, complete with a pool with Splash bar and restaurant offering light meals, a kids zone, Westin Workout gym and Heavenly Spa. Floors five to 1 7 are used as offices. On the 1 8 floor, visitors would be thrilled to find Seasonal Tastes, an all day dining restaurant with spectacular views towards the South. Seasonal Tastes serves an expansive western and eastern buffet breakfast, a la carte lunch and dinner options, as well as a dinner buffet incorporating International, Indian and Asian options. The set-up is open plan kitchen areas, were some of the food is pre-prepared, but you can also order ‘prepare while you watch’ type options. Furthermore, on the same floor, guests can enjoy Eighteen, the Lounge and Bar, the ideal space to unwind at the end of the day, as well as Kangan, a chic specialty Indian restaurant, with spectacular views towards the North. The 269 hotel rooms are located on floors 1 9 to 32, with a variety of options starting from Deluxe rooms to Executive Club Rooms, Executive suites, a Chairman’s suite and a Presidential Suite. The Presidential Suite is located on the top floor and has lounge, TV room, study, bar, kitchen, guest toilet, 2 en-suite bedrooms with the option of a third inter leading bedroom. All rooms are spacious, from 42 m² for a Deluxe option to 230 m² for the Presidential suite. The rooms have floor to ceiling windows providing natural light and views, coffee / tea making facility, mini bar and snacks (only complimentary for Executive Club members), a work desk with high speed internet access available, a 46 inch LCD screen television and DVD player (selection of complimentary DVD’s available from reception), in-room safe (suitable for laptops) and iron and ironing board. All bathrooms have heavenly bed and bath signature Westin products and new range of spa bath amenities. The hotel also offers a small garden as well as a heli pad on the roof, which is probably the best way to escape the notorious Mumbai traffic. The hotel is part of the bigger Oberoi Garden City in Goregaon (east), a development incorporating an international business park, green belt and residential development. It is conveniently located next to the lovely Oberoi Mall offering great shopping with a variety of traditional and modern Indian clothing shops as well as the international brands such as Levi, Adidas, Reebok and so on.
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The hotel is approximately 1 0 kilometers from the international airport and 1 2 kilometers from the domestic airport. It is also in close proximity to the emerging business districts of Malad, Andheni and Powai, as well as the Bombay Exhibition Centre. The hotel offers easy access to the Western Express Highway to the South (Bandra, Worli, and South Mumbai) and the North (Navi Mumbai and Thane). Although there were some small issues that needed attention, I had a very positive experience at the Westin, Mumbai Garden City and can recommend this hotel to any traveler visiting Mumbai. text by Carla Rossouw photos by Carla Rossouw
Incredible India is based on Carla Rossouw's personal experience in India. Carla Rossouw is a Professional Conference Organiser based in South Africa. She writes reviews on Venues, Hotels and Restaurants as well as International Destinations. She regularly writes for our Agenda section in WealthWise magazine. Visit www.carlarossouw.com for more travel reviews.
Design
Welcome to Sunset Avenue
S
ituated on 26 Sunset Avenue, Llandudno, just south of Western Cape’s scenic town of Oudekraal, miles away from the bustling Cape Town in the north-east and Camps Bay beach, this luxurious villa has breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean. All six rooms with en-suite bathrooms are specifically designed to frame the incredible sea views. Two suites are situated on the upper level of the villa, with the remaining four suites on the pool deck level. Spacious and lightflooded, the suites open up onto large private sun decks and feature floorto-ceiling glass doors that completely retract into the walls, exposing the interrupted, magnificent sea views. The stylish combination of wood, steel and glass and tasteful art creates a modern space with natural tones of beige, grey and amber. The lounge area is brought to life by a modern fireplace and hints of warm orange.
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Design
Standard rates for this Llandudno villa start at R5890.00 per night on a bed-andbreakfast basis. Rates include access to the villa and all its facilities, including outdoor pool deck, fully equiped kitchen and braai area, mini bar and fridge, high speed internet, DVD player and flat screen televisions among others. The exclusive luxury villa on Sunset Avenue can be rented for filming, shooting and accomodation. To book or enquire, call Villas and Hotels for Africa at +27(0)21 975 81 92 or email stay@vilasandhotelsforafrica.com . For more information on luxury villas in Western Cape and nationwide, visit www.villasandhotelsforafrica.com . text Denisa Oosthuizen, Villas and Hotels for Africa photos by Villas and Hotels for Africa
Rates
"All six rooms with en-suite bathrooms are specifically designed to frame the incredible sea views"
Rates start at R5890.00 per night on a bed-andbreakfast basis. Rates include access to the villa and all its facilities.
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