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7 editor’s note WAYFARE

Every answer is different.

Whenever I embark on a trip, I come home in love with something or someone that in turn influences my next travel experience. It could be the bright textiles featured in “The Other Side” (page 20) or the thrill of seeing wild mustangs charge an open range that keeps me awake at night dreaming of wildlife refuges like the Giraffe Manor in this issue’s “Bucket List” (page 14). You see, for me, it’s not adventure, luxury, or the sea that I seek on any given trip. It’s not the type of trip or destination that shapes my travel; it is the lived experience. For Issue No. 2 of Wayfare, we’re taking you inside the travel lives of our contributors, giving you a glimpse into how they make their travel marks on the world. Each of us can take away something from their stories that will inspire our next getaway. This issue isn’t governed by hot lists, guidebooks, or five-star reviews but rather an emphasis on personal journals that keep the experience—not the end destination— at the root of the story.

L a s V e n ta na s a l Pa r a ís o, M E X IC O

These images were taken during our summer stay at Las Ventanas in Los Cabos. The image of my son enjoying a bubble bath after a day of being pampered on the beach with buckets of sand toys and picnic lunches captures the joy of our trip perfectly. See more images on our blog at wayfaremag.com photogr aphy By erica dublin

Wayfare exists to bring you stories that become a starting place or an extension of your own unique travel experiences, uncovering endless inspiration and acting as a point of connection, collaboration, and celebration of travel. We hope you’ll continue to share your adventures with us.

E r i c a D u b l i n , E d i t o r - I n - C h i e f o f w ay fa r e


The photographer and foodie shares a few of her favorite Charleston finds:

charleston

EAT/ OUT Photographer Alice Gao of Lingered Upon, a travel-esq online journal that documents her love of small moments made into photos, her boyfriend, and some good friends, uncover the robust food scene in Charleston, South Carolina. words & photography By ALICE GAO

ALICE'S PICKS NO.1 f

“When we first got to the city, we made our way to Butcher & Bee for some fantastic sandwiches. The place had a great industrial, rustic feel with harsh sunlight streaming through the windows.�

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13 brought to you by Mark and Graham WAYFARE

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Words & Photography by Grant Gibson Kenya --My dear friend Dorrit — an extraordinary woman in her early 80s — asked me to accompany her on a trip to Kenya this spring. I should mention that Dorrit is the great niece of author Karen Blixen, better known by the pen name Isak Dinesen, under which she authored Out of Africa. Traveling to Kenya, where her great aunt famously lived in the early twentieth century, was a lifelong dream come true for her and once-in-alifetime opportunity for me. With my bags practically packed, I jumped at the invitation. One highlight was our stay at Giraffe Manor, located outside Nairobi. The ten-room brick manor covered with thick ivy transports you to a lost epoch. The pristine grounds are speckled with a herd of Rothschild’s giraffes that call the manor home year-round. These beautiful creatures are part of an ongoing effort, started by conservationists Jock and Betty Leslie-Melville in the 1970s, to rear and preserve this subspecies of giraffes. These amazing animals charmingly played host at the manor. Every morning I would enjoy a freshly brewed French press with hot milk while my new long-necked friends beckoned for their own treats from my windowsill. Once I opened my window, they would stick their heads in for a nibble; they were so close you could count their eyelashes. It was inspiring to visit such a spectacular place, a place where history, grace, and a bit of magic realized a dream for my travel partner and me. I can’t wait to plan our next adventure. GKG

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Kenya Scrapbook ---

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Renowned photographer Victoria Pearson is also a traveler with a collection of stories as vibrant as her photos. With a rare ability to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary, she discovers the unexpected joys of a culture in southern India. w o r d s & p h o t o g r a p h y b y V i c t o r i a Pe a r s o n

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What sparked your interest in traveling to this region?

V P It has been on my travel list for a long time, and I was fortunate enough to go when I traveled to Chennai and Tiruchirappalli on assignment. This particular part of the country offered me a chance to experience a more rural environment. For part of the trip, I was even lucky enough to stay with a family of farmers who were so hospitable and charming. They openly shared their life with me, which I’ll never forget.

Did you happen upon an unexpected discovery?

V P I was surprised and delighted by the friendliness and openness of the people. Locals would walk up to me to ask where I was from and then introduce themselves. My camera was always met with smiles, and I started to sense the pure joy in the culture. I saw people here that had nothing, but they were rich in spirit, filled with life and generosity; their spiritual values were pervasive, woven into their everyday lives.

What were some of your favorite spots and sights?

I loved being driven through the small towns and countryside. With my camera aimed out the window, it was a nonstop visual feast of little moments of everyday life—from the sound of music and people talking, laughing, and shopping to motorcycles and buses, with cows wandering everywhere.

VP

What did you come home with?

India is so alive with color, and the women in their saris often left me feeling like such a plain Jane! I brought back a lot of textiles and fabric. One of my favorites was a large, thin wool scarf made of beautifully woven subtle colors. VP

If you went back tomorrow, where would you go?

Goa and Jaipur have always captured my imagination, but any place in India would be great. The entire place is so diverse.

VP

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Travel has taught me…

— V i c t o r i a Pe a r s o n , f i n e a r t p h o t o g r a p h e r

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musts 1 take a sunset camel tour through the red sand dunes. 2 get acquainted with a camel (hercules is pictured here!) 3 - 5 stay at the luxurious and secluded Longitude 131°. 6 experience the ‘sounds of silence’ dinner under the stars. 7 hang out with cameleers. have them tell you their stories. 8 take a Bush tucker tour to learn the importance of bush food by an aboriginal host. 9 watch the sun rises at uluru. catch the ever-chaniging colors on this monolith. MORE book an astro tour. star gaze and get lost in the southern night sky. 6


“I could not get enough of the shadow play at Uluru during sunrise. It seemed like every corner I turned, there was another quiet, graphic moment waiting for me.� P E GGY WONG


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musts 1, 3 - 4 ENJOY a SUNRISE HOT AIR BALLOON RIDE OVER THE AUSTRALIAN OUTBACK. ASSIST THE CREW TO GET THE NYLON BALLOON INFLATED AND later PACK IT BACK INTO ITS BAG. 2 please, please, please VISIT THE ALICE SPRINGS SCHOOL OF THE AIR. THE SCHOOL PROVIDES EDUCATION VIA VIDEO–CONFERERNCING TO REMOTE AREAS OF AUSTRALIA. IT WILL MAKE YOU APPRECIATE GOING TO SCHOOL ON A SCHOOL BUS every day. 5 TAKE A LEISURE HIKE ON TRIGG HILL around sunset time (YOU MAY even run into A FEW KANGAROOS!) 6 hold a few reptiles at the alice springs reptile center. 5

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musts arrange a reef comber tour with Hamilton island air. a luxury experience on a private seaplane, with a select few guests on board (I’m talking four, myself included). ° witness nature at its best—whitehaven beach, whitsunday island, hook island, and heart reef. ° Snorkel at the secluded Hardy Lagoon, then watch the reef goes by below as you sip sparkling wine onboard a glass bottom boat. TIP ENJOY Concierge services par excellence AT QUALIA AND HAVE THEM BOOK THE TOUR FOR YOU. YOU WILL BE IN GOOD HANDS.

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“When you are greeted with this view upon arrival at qualia, why would you ever want to leave?” P E GGY WONG


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musts 1 CUDDLE A KOALA AT WILDLIFE HAMILTON ISLAND. BE SURE TO MEET ELVIS (PICTURED). 2 SPEND A MORNING, AFTERNOON, OR EVENING AT QUALIA RESORT’S LONG PAVILION. 3 EXPLORE THE ARCHITECTURE AT HAMILTON ISLAND YACHT CLUB. DINE AT BOMMIE RESTAURANT, HAMILTON ISLAND’S SIGNATURE RESTAURANT LOCATED AT THE CLUB. 4 SIP COCKTAILS AT ONE TREE HILL AND WATCH THE SUNSET OVER PASSAGE PEAK. 5 - 6 STAY AT QUALIA. YOUR BODY AND SOUL WILL THANK YOU LATER. TAKE NOTE IF YOU ARE VACATIONING WITH FAMILY AND SMALL CHILDREN, THE LUXURY YACHT CLUB VILLAS ARE A GREAT ALTERNATIVE TO QUALIA.

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“qualia was my little slice of heaven on Hamilton Island. What was beyond the Jurassic Park-like gates at the entrance was something of another world.� P E GGY WONG


musts 1 - 2 ENJOY A CHAMPAGNE LUNCH AT QUALIA’S PEBBLE BEACH RESTAURANT LOCATED ON THE WATER’S EDGE. 3 get AROUND THE ISLAND IN YOUR OWN ELECTRIC GOLF BUGGY. I MISS MINE (PICTURED)! 4 JETSET IN STYLE. HEAD ON UPSTAIRS TO THE VIP LOUNGE AT THE HAMILTON ISLAND AIRPORT. EXCLUSIVELY FOR GUESTS AT QUALIA AND BEACH CLUB RESORT. 5 STROLL ALONG THE DOCKS AT HAMILTON ISLAND YACHT CLUB AT SUNSET.

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4 SYDNEY

musts TAKE A BACKSTAGE TOUR AT THE SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE. get BEHIND-THE-SCENES LOOK at THE CONCERT HALL. STAND ON STAGE AND EVEN the conductor’s podium! roam the halls and Walk in the footsteps of legendary performers. TIP ARRIVE EARLY IN THE MORNING BEFORE THE TOUR starts TO CATCH THE sun casts its glow ON THE opera house.


“I only had one day in Sydney, but the memory of the city left a huge impression. For someone who loves architecture as much as I do, Sydney is full of camera-worthy moments. � P E GGY WONG


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musts stay at the harbour rocks hotel. A 150-year-old building turned Luxury boutique hotel. 1, 3 - 5 book the Harbour View Suite. located on the top floor of the hotel with a rooftop terrace Overlooking Sydney Harbour and the Sydney Opera House. 2 DINE AT Scarlett Restaurant. 6 CHECK OUT THE LIBRARY AT THE HOTEL LOBBY. 7 GRAB A DRINK AT ERIC’S BAR. TIP ASK THE STAFF TO TELL YOU THE LOVE STORY OF Scarlett AND ERIC.

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musts VISIT THE Museum of Contemporary Art AUSTRALIA. 1 Spend a few moments outside MCA watching the flashing arrow by Brooke Andrew Animates in LED Lights that was inspired by an indigenous shield design. 2 - 3 TAKE A BREAK AT THE MCA cafe/Sculptural terrace. 4 bold and modern typography around the museum. 5 ‘SUNRISE #3‘ BY ROBERT OWEN, 2005. 6 ‘TangO‘ by Helen Eager, 2012. don’t miss when you are at the flashing arrow, look down. words by andrew are laser cut into the ground below the arrow. AN IMPORTANT piece of history BEHIND THE nation’s oldest DOCKYARD, WHERE THE MUSEUM IS SITUATED.

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burma

Letting go of any fear that could stand in their way of recording what was seen, Andrea Gentl and Martin Hyers shoot reportage style—on top of cars, jumping into passing trucks, climbing onto any structure offering a different vantage point, hanging out of car windows, and meeting strangers along the way. Here, they guide us through a series of photographs taken during their recent trip to Burma and China, giving us a glimpse into the beauty of places framed by the people who live there.

A PHOTO E SSAY B y Ge n t l a n d H y e r s

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“ T h i s s h o t wa s ta k e n w h i l e a fa m i ly t o o k t h e i r m o r n i n g b at h . T h e b oy ’ s m o t h e r wa s j u s t o u t o f f r a m e , n a k e d , wa s h i n g i n t h e r i v e r .” burma


“ B u r m a i s p o s s i b ly t h e b e s t c o u n t r y w e h av e p h o t o g r a p h e d i n o u r c a r e e r .” burma

CHINA

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“ T h r o u g h o u t N o r t h e r n C h i n a , t h e va l l e y s w e r e f u l l o f a d a r k a c r i d s m o g t h at h u n g o v e r m o s t o f t h e c i t i e s a n d t o w n s . A lt h o u g h i t wa s s a d t o s e e , i t m a d e f o r g r e at p h o t o g r a p h y. T h e m o r n i n g s u n w o u l d l i g h t t h e s m o g , l e av i n g t h e p e o p l e a s b l a c k s i l h o u e tt e s d o tt i n g t h e l a n d s c a p e .” CHINA


words & photography by Mike Carreiro

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Maison la Minervetta

i This public kitchen area with dominate primary colors was incredible. This is where our buffet breakfast was served each morning.

h This was one of our first impressions of the hotel. Being a visual person, I enjoyed just being here. Every bit of the hotel was

designed with purpose.

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+

Here, the amazing

sunset lights up one of my favorite places,

a small park that overlooked the Mediterranean.


Marina Piccola 73

i We also stayed at an incredible B&B located right on the water. The place really felt like

a home —it was romantically secluded by the

steep terrain and the sea, and the hotelier would light candles that led up to our room every night. The view (pictured) from our room gave us a daily view of Sorrento beach life.

f Here’s the view (looking right) from our balcony at Marina Piccola 73.

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a n nou nci ng

LA VIE Awaiting any adventure.

JOU R N E YS

Wayfare Journeys are an extension of the Wayfare experience: uncovering endless inspiration and acting as a point of connection, collaboration and celebration of travel for our growing community of readers. Each expertly curated journey is an incredible and memorable experience that is life-enriching and unique to the destination. Come travel with us. For further questions please email journeys@wayfaremag.com

WAYFARE JOURNEYS ... SPRING 2014


words & photography By KARI HOWARD

ES CA PE BIG SUR

Richard, the owner of the pretty-close-to-perfect property where I had landed in Big Sur, was talking about letting go of the pull of your everyday world and its aggravations, routines, and things that drag you down. The line resonated with me. I had spent the morning being frustrated over a silly problem that had me driving up Route 1 in a rented Kia (oh, the glamor) instead of the trip I’d envisioned: hugging those curves in a new robin’s-egg blue Mini. But now I realized it didn’t matter how you got to Big Sur. It was being here, in one of my favorite places, that mattered. It’s a place that makes you exhale. And then breathe deep. And exhale again. Because I’d been to Big Sur many times already, I planted myself on the property for almost 48 hours to work on escaping that gravity field. Others might want to hike out to their cars and make some day trips—the Henry Miller Memorial Library and Pfeiffer Beach are two favorites. But I was staying in a spot that was the essence of Big Sur: an off-grid vintage Pathfinder trailer perched on the ledge of the Pacific Ocean in a canyon blanketed with that California golden glow before sunset and a glorious stand of redwoods. It even had its own bathhouse (also with a view), featuring a 1950s-looking seafoam-green iron tub and an outdoor shower that caught the sun even on a midwinter morning. Fairy lights made the warm, wooden space seem magical. The place is solar powered, so you become conscious of your consumption. You realize you can live without a hair dryer and other energy-sucking devices. But if you can’t do the same for your cell phone, there’s plenty of juice for it. After settling in, I also left most of Big Sur behind, focusing instead on this little piece of it. Well, not that little. Richard has a lot of acreage and says even he hasn’t seen all of it yet, maybe because some of it is nearly vertical. That didn’t stop him from carving a road out of this wonderful wilderness. When you arrive, you park your car just up from Highway 1 and find Richard, who sherpas you and your stuff in, taking the steep grade and rutted dirt road like a veteran of the Dakar Rally.

I breathed in that singular Big Sur “perfume” along the way and asked why the air here smells like it does. The next thing I knew, he was slowing down and telling me to grab a piece of this plant and that plant and to take a whiff. One smells like anise, another like mint. Take those, and the cypress and the ocean air and a million other blooming plants, and you’ve got a fragrance that should be bottled and sold as a relaxation potion. The last time I was here, about three years ago, my sister and I camped at the Pfeiffer Burns State Park and saw Yo La Tengo perform at the library, a show that was like a picnic under the redwoods with the band playing its most lo-fi music. This time, the Yo La Tengo song “More Stars Than There Are in Heaven,” a beautiful meditation on growing old together, played on the iPhone as the darkness gathered. And then I stepped outside to the song come to life. I’d seen star-filled skies when escaping the light-blasting city, but this sky was different. The stars were huge, like a child had splotched them up there with a silver crayon. I craned my neck and basked in starlight. One evening I walked up to the “phone booth” on the property—two vintage lawn chairs with a sweeping view of the ocean and a sliver of cellphone reception. I had escaped my gravity field enough to care little about making calls or downloading my email. But the phone had come along as a camera. It would probably take a few more days, if not weeks, to live completely in the moment and not take pictures. I had a glass of wine and snapped the changing colors of the sky as the sun lowered itself into the Pacific. And I enjoyed the silence until the sound of a rumbling tractor intruded. First thought? That it was someone doing work at Esalen, the classic Big Sur retreat that was directly below. Then there it was: a trailer lumbering its way up the dirt road. This one was an Aristocrat, and Richard was pulling it on a tractor to its new home. I couldn’t stop smiling at the serendipity of the moment as it went by. It seemed to be defying gravity. But then, Big Sur does that to you.

I breathed in that singular Big Sur “perfume” along the way and asked why the air here smells like it does.

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your gravity field

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Louisiana RITUALS

words & photogr aphy by k ate lesueur

Year after year, I travel to my family’s getaway home, The Camp, located on Lake Verret in South Louisiana. It is here that my family regularly gathers to celebrate everything from holidays to loss, and where I find my escape from the everyday. Our camp is Acadian style, made of cypress and built on the water. A wrap-around porch encircles the home with views of a serene swamp in the back and a lake in the front. This other world is filled with inspiration: familiar faces and interesting dialects; green moss growing on cracked concrete and Spanish moss hanging high and low; rich food and the sounds of crickets and frogs. Laughter and laziness are profound and significant elements of each trip. We fish, cook, water ski, and take ridiculous naps. You can often find me on the front porch swing, dozing off to the sounds of flags flapping in the wind and boats rocking in the water. Eating freshly caught fish is also a highlight each day. The whole family fishes, but my grandmother is a master fisher. She out-fishes everyone, always pulling in one fish after another, and at times the pole is entirely unattended. This enchanted place on the lake is where I find myself. It gives me a sense of presence that I haven’t found elsewhere, shaping my photographs and memories.

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Fried Catfish family recipe

1.5–2 lbs fish filets (enough to fill a

quart-sized Ziploc bag) 1.5 cups yellow mustard splash of Worcester sauce splash of hot sauce (Tabasco or Crystal) 1–2 lemons 1 cup finely crushed cornmeal 1 cup flour salt pepper cajun seasoning peanut oil

Clean fish filets and soak for at least an hour in the following mixture (can be done in quart-size bag): - Yellow mustard - Few splashes of Worcester sauce - Few splashes of hot sauce - Juice of one fresh-squeezed lemon While the fish sits, create this dry mixture in a large low-profile bowl: - Cornmeal - Flour - Salt, pepper, and cajun seasoning to taste Heat peanut oil at medium-high heat. You will know it’s ready when you can stick a wooden cooking spoon in the oil and bubbles appear around the wood. Slide each filet through your index finger and thumb to remove excess mustard batter, and then dredge the filet in the dry mix until it is entirely covered. Place the first five filets in oil to cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm with fresh lemon and hot sauce on the side.

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77 a thought WAYFARE

There’s always something I can bring home from my travels that changes me. Sometimes it’s a small thing, like how I prepare my morning coffee. Other times it’s more profound, changing the way I look at the world. From the beginning of my trip to Charleston, it was clear that food would be the center of my experience there. Before I left, I had more restaurant recommendations than I could ever squeeze into my visit. What I loved about the place was its resemblance to San Francisco’s farm-to-table fare paired with the hospitality of Southern dining. I have infused some of the tastes of Charleston in my cooking and hope to return for that soft-shelled crab and Carolina gold rice.

w o r d s b y c a i t l i n f l e m m i n g o f s a c r a m e n t o s t r ee t photogr aph By Olivia R ae Jame s T w o B o r o u g h s L a r de r / c h a r l e s t o n , s o u t h c a r o l i n a


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