WAttention Tokyo Vol.26

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2017-2018 Winter issue VOL.26

SPECIAL FEATURE

1

SPECIAL FEATURE

2

Tokyo's Coolest Museums to Visit Right Now!

West Tokyo: Nakano & Koenji - Become a local Tokyoite

o Trip t aido Hokk

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こよみを楽しむ

暦 Koyomi December and Januar y

IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS

K aki zome 2nd Januar y 書き初め

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、 写真:渡辺肇

On the 2nd of January, many Japanese

These artworks were burned in the

author as she welcomed in the New Year.

people practice Kakizome, the first

holy fire known as Dondo Yaki on the 15th

calligraphy writing of their New Year’s

of January. Only when the smoke rises high

resolution on a fresh sheet of white

in the sky and the drawings are completely

blank sheet of paper in front of us, let’s

paper. Over the centuries, writing was

gone, do the god grant their wish. .

ask oneself what it is that we really want

only practiced among the aristocrats and the ability to write and draw was seen as

With a fresh calligraphy brush and a

for the New Year. This quiet time is sure to This picture shows the first sentence

bring peaceful self-reflection. Our ancestors

something very special and admirable. It

of the famous story “Makura No Soshi (The

certainly knew how to welcome the New

was at the end of the Edo period (1603–1867)

Pillow Talk)” written by Sei Shonagon (c. 966

Year.

when common people started learning how

- 1025), a female author during the Heian

to write. As each New Year arrived, many

Period (794-1185). It means “in spring it is

were determined to improve their writing

the dawn that is most beautiful,” which is a

and drawing skills and would dedicate their

perfect sentence for the beginning of a new

own calligraphy and drawings to shrines.

season. You can feel the excitement of the

Rieko Ido A graduate of Kokugakuin University, researcher of ancient Japanese customs and knowledge, conducting technical analysis on findings to apply them to modern lifestyles.

Currently teaches at Tama Art University.

WAttention Tokyo

01

Why“WAttention”?

WAttention is named so with the hope that people in the world would pay more “Attention” to “WA （和）”; an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself!

VOL.26

世界中の人々に「和」 （WA）に注目（Attention） してほしいという 願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Contents

01 In Harmony with the seasons

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.

03 Tokyo Hot News

Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

04

Feature 1

Editorial Advisors Naoko Ijuin (Feature 1) Kan Hana (Feature 2)

Tokyo's Coolest Museums to Visit Right Now! - The one-of-a-kind Yayoi Kusama museum has finally opened - Satisfy your curiosity at Japan’s treasure houses of art and knowledge

Editorial Team Nancy Liu, Ellen Hwang, Cuauhtemoc Velazquez, Zoria Petkoska, Elodie Bassibey

Toyo Bunko Museum, Japan Folk Crafts Museum, Sumida Hokusai Museum, Fujio Akatsuka museum, Fujiko F Fujio museum, Machiko Hasegawa museum, Tokiwa-so

10

Feature 2

West Tokyo: Nakano & Koenji

Design Team Graphic Designers

- Become a local Tokyoite

Kenji Ishida, Haruna Katahira, Ochiai Aki Leonor, Ning Chuang

17 Short Trip from Tokyo - Winter Fun around Mt. Fuji

Photographers

Plenty of Exciting Activities to Keep You Busy

Kenji Sugasawa Sales & Marketing Naoki Kiyota, Yuri Nakazawa, Doris Lo, Hiroko Watanabe

19 Another 3hr Trip - How to Make the Best of 3 Hours in Tokyo Ikebukuro, Shinagawa, Shinjuku

Special thanks Rieko Ido, Koran Onishi

25 Recharge batteries at the lively Robot Restaurant 27 Go west from Tokyo - Setouchi City: Legendary swords, stunning landscapes & romantic islands

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28 Words of Japan Joya no Kane – New Year's Eve Bell –

シンガポール事務所 WAon Pte Ltd 2B Craig Road Singapore 089662 Phone : 65-6324-2127

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In This Issue We have been receiving a lot of requests from our readers about what they want to read, one of which is off-the-beaten-path attractions. This is because with the first trip to Japan often comes a second, or even a third. Repeat visitors are on the rise and they are more demanding than ever. In response to our reader’s feedback, we have come up with an issue full of places that you won’t come across in ordinary guidebooks.

Don't miss out!

Winter 2017-2018 Rather than focusing on world class museums, the first part of this issue features museums that are frequented by Tokyoites.

Our foreign writers will also introduce the western part of Tokyo and give you an insight into the daily life of Japanese people. Become an explorer yourself and discover a different side of Tokyo!

- Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki

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TOKYO HOT

EWS

Bringing you the latest hot news

3 New amphibious bus tour TOKYO NO KABA launched in Tokyo Bay The KABA BUS in the Yamanakako area around Mt Fuji which runs on both water and land, has finally made its way to Tokyo Bay! From November 27, visitors can board the adorable TOKYO NO KABA (Tokyo’s Hippo) from Aqua City in Odaiba and weave through a jungle of skyscrapers before splashing into the Tokyo Bay. Now the list of places where you can savor the beauty of Tokyo Bay has just got a little bit longer! http://www.kaba-bus.com/tokyo/

4 Play till you drop with Odakyu’s HAKONE KAMAKURA PASS The HAKONE KAMAKURA PASS, which grants unlimited use of Odakyu trains and discount admission to selected tourist attractions over three consecutive days, will go on sale beginning December 1. With the pass in hand, you can travel from Tokyo to Hakone and Kamakura, and appreciate the change of scenery from city to nature. You can also enjoy further discounts at selected restaurants and museums by showing the pass.

1 Lip balm in a Japanese amulet: the cutest souvenir to bring home Isshindo Honpo, a company which is known for making kabuki facial masks, has redefined the role of traditional amulet by giving it a new function—a bag for lip balms. The “fukufuku lip balm” bags come in twelve different designs and are made by craftsmen in Fujiyoshida, a city at the foot of Mt Fuji, using a thousand-year old technique. This makes a great souvenir from Japan.

http://www.odakyu.jp

http://www.isshin-do.co.jp/fukufuku.html

2 Get the latest travel information at Shinjuku’s INBOUND LEAGUE INBOUND LEAGUE, located nearby Shinjuku Station South East Exit, is a multifunctional complex comprised of a tourist information center, share house facilities and a performance hall.

Visitors can get tour packages to various destinations in Japan at the first floor. Tourists are welcome to use the prayer room and free Wi-Fi. Bike rental and luggage storage services are available at an additional cost. Traveling in Tokyo is much easier with INBOUND LEAGUE! http://inbound-league.jp/

5 The snack paradise "Yesterday’s tomorrow" offers one hundred and twenty treats To showcase the excellence of Japanese treats, Japanese food giant Calbee recently opened a snack paradise called “Yesterday’s tomorrow” at B1 LUMINE EST Shinjuku. The store offers sweet and savory snacks from 120 different brands sold by weight and a do-it-yourself packaging experience where you can make your own bag of treats. This is a must visit for snack lovers around the world! http://www.calbee.co.jp/yesterdaystomorrow

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Tokyo’s Coolest Museu Not satisfied with the museums in the guidebooks?

If you want to know more about Japan and experience more of the country’s wonders, read on.

We have selected some of the hottest and coolest museums that you should be visiting.

Yayoi Kusama Museum The one-of-a-kind Yayoi Kusama museum has finally opened The world’s first museum dedicated to innovative Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama opened in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district on October 1, 2017. The museum, which aims to spread the message of love and world peace, is the celebration of the artist’s life and work. Unfortunately, tickets for the inaugural exhibition are already sold out, so for future exhibitions make sure to reserve your tickets with plenty of time in advance at the museum's official ticketing website.

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This is the only museum in the world that is designed and run by Kusama herself. In addition to the permanent exhibition, the museum plans to hold two exhibitions a year, where visitors can fully indulge in her early and recent artwork, as well as admiring newly completed masterpieces. The museum also holds lectures, talks, tours (for elementary school students) and several other events for those who want to know more about her work. Kusama has been conveying the message of world peace and love for humanity through various means for many years and visiting the museum gives you a chance to step into her world.

ms to Visit Right Now!

3F Gallery Installation view © YAYOI KUSAMA Works: Her works are full of energy and vibrancy.

Information Hours: 11 am – 5 pm (Thursday thru Sunday and holidays) Tickets must be bought online in advance as they have a specific entry time.

The number of visitors for each time slot is limited.

Admission: 1,000 Yen adults, 600 Yen children (6 to 18) Access: 7-min walk from Waseda Station on the Tozai Line or 6-min walk from Ushigome-yanagicho Station on the Oedo Line.

URL: http://yayoikusamamuseum.jp/en/exhibition/ current/

Pumpkin painting: PUMPKINS SCREAMING ABOUT LOVE BEYOND INFINITY 2017 © YAYOI KUSAMA

Kusama: Kusama paints every day, making her a top figure in contemporary art

Exterior view of Yayoi Kusama Museum

Portrait of Yayoi Kusama © YAYOI KUSAMA

Photo by Masahiro Tsuchida © YAYOI KUSAMA WAttention Tokyo

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Satisfy your curiosity at Japan’s treasure houses of art and knowledge

Toyo Bunko Museum (The Oriental Library)

A breathtaking gold mine of knowledge in many languages

(1st Floor) The museum has a wide range of books in more than 80 languages about Asia alone. Visitors are sure to find a book in their language. A digital exhibit helps visitors learn more about the collection.

There are many libraries around the world that attract visitors simply by their beautiful architecture, and this is one such place.

The breathtaking three-story high entrance hall is a treasure trove of knowledge. Around 24,000 books acquired by Iwasaki Hisaya, the third Mitsubishi President from the English journalist George Ernest Morrison in 1917 are exhibited here. With a collection of more than a million titles that keeps on growing about 10,000 new books per year, you will find not only texts about Japan, but also books and research papers about the history and culture of all Asia. This (Sourvenir) The museum also offers cookies and other products that use selected ingredients from the Kiowa Farm, historically associated with the Iwasaki family and which can only be purchased here.

research library of Oriental Studies also holds five books considered a National Treasure, seven books designated as an Impor tant Cultural Property and many more valuable books.

Information Hours: 10am-7pm (last entry 6:30pm), Closed Tuesdays (or the next day following a holiday), New Year holidays and during the change of exhibitions.

Admission: 900 Yen adults Access: 8-min walk from Komagome Station on JR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Nanboku Line URL: http://www.toyo-bunko.or.jp/ museum/museum_index.php (Bento Box) A bento (lunch box) in the shape of MarieAntoinette’s books, made out of hundred-year old wood.

The contents of the bento box change according to the season.

Marie-Antoinette 1,860 yen 06

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Explore the richness of Japanese aesthetics and be amazed at how it is applied in modern art. A myriad of oriental cultural heritage is waiting for you to tap into.

The Japan Folk Crafts Museum Discover the vanishing beauty of everyday life through traditional Japanese crafts Japanese philosopher Muneyoshi Yanagi founded the Mingei (folk crafts) movement that consists of showing appreciation for the beauty of

Left: Traditional Japanese handball in gorgeous colors 2,376 Yen for small ones and 2,700 Yen for big ones Right: Traditional Japanese wrapping cloth made with “sashiko” threads sewn in beautiful patterns. 4,860-7,776 Yen

objects used in daily life by ordinary people. He founded and designed

Information

this museum himself as a space to showcase the hidden beauty of these

Hours: 10am-5pm (last entry 4:30pm) Closed Mondays (or the next day following a holiday) Admission: 1,100 Yen adults, 600 Yen high school and university students, 200 Yen elementary school and middle school students.

Access: 7-min walk from Komaba Todai-mae Station on the Keio Inokashira Line.

URL: http://www.mingeikan.or.jp/english/

objects. The museum boasts a collection of 17,000 pieces of tableware, furniture, kimono and farm tools that were actually used by Japanese people. There are also objects from different countries, notably from China and Korea. Exhibitions change five times a year and objects displayed are replaced regularly. For Japanese people the museum offers the opportunity to get reacquainted with daily life objects from past generations. You can also take home some of these beautiful objects as a souvenir.

The Sumida Hokusai Museum

Enjoy the works of Katsushika Hokusai in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward, which was his birthplace and where he spent most of his life.

There is definitely more to Hokusai than his famous “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji” series and you can learn more about this ukiyo-e master here. Play with interactive touch screen panels (available in Japanese, English, Korean, Traditional Chinese and Simplified Chinese) that illustrate his depictions of natural scenery and beautiful women, as well as Hokusai Manga (Hokusai's Sketches) and allow you to learn more about his life. The museum designed by Pritzker A rchitec ture Prize w inner Sejima K azu yo, proudly holds 1,800 pieces of Hokusai’s work.

B ot h Van G ogh and Cez anne were ver y

Information

Katsushika Hokusai "Under the Wave off Kanagawa, Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji“ Collection: the Sumida Hokusai Museum

impressed by Hokusai’s Thir t y-six Views of Mount Fuji, a series he produced while in his 70s.

Hours: 9:30am - 5:30pm(last entry 5pm) Closed Monday (or the next day following a holiday) and New Year holidays Admission: Permanent exhibits: 400 Yen adults, 300 Yen high school students and seniors aged 65 and above (Admission fee for special exhibits vary) Access: 5-min walk from JR Ryogoku Station URL: http://hokusai-museum.jp WAttention Tokyo

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The origin of MANGA! Learn about well-known manga characters created by Osamu Tezuka, Fujiko Fujio, Fujio Akatsuka and Ishinomori Shotaro.

Fujio Akatsuka Museum This is where Akatsuka Fujio made his name!

Akatsuka Fujio, a Japanese manga legend who once lived in Tokiwa-so, created the Genius Bakabon( 天 才バカボン ), Osomatsu-kun( おそ松くん ) and many other comic characters in the Showa period(1926 ～ 1989). Over the years, these manga characters continue to be loved by a wide range of Japanese audience. Some of the catch phrases in Akatsuka’s manga are still used today. The museum, offering a retro decor reminding people of the good old Japan, has a great volume of art illustrations on display. Ome, a nostalgic city with a lively Showa atmosphere, is really worth a visit.

Information Character socks 410 Yen a pair

Hours: 10am-5pm, Closed Mondays (or the next day of a holiday) and New Year holidays Admission: 450 Yen adults Access: 5-min walk from JR Ome Station URL: http://ome-akatsukafujio-museum.com

Cafe latte 570 Yen (tax incl)

Uso800 cookies 1,188 Yen (tax incl)

Fujiko・F・Fujio Museum Get ready to be greeted by the adorable Doraemon!

This manga museum is packed with Japanese household

Doraemon headband 1,008 Yen (tax incl)

name characters like Doraemon and Perman. Ever y visit is special as the manuscripts and items on display, 140 out of 50,000, are changed on a regular basis. You

Information

can also take a peek into Fujiko F Fujio’s study room,

Hours: 10am-6pm Admission: 1,000 Yen adults, 500 Yen children between 4 years of age and elementary school, 700 Yen middle school and high school students. The entry time is designated on the tickets, which must be reserved online or through Lawson's convenience store.

Access: 9-min from Noborito Station on JR Nanbu Line or the Odakyu Line by Kawasaki City Bus. URL: https://fujiko-museum.com/english/

which houses a collection of 10,000 books. Thanks to the museum's being equipped with high tech facilities, visitors will have no trouble getting the most out of the visit. Audio guides are provided in Chinese, Korean, English and Japanese. The Japanese audio guide for children even features Doraemon’s voice—how sweet!

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© Fujiko-pro

Take a closer look at the manuscripts and studios of manga masters and learn about the birthplace of Japanese manga and modern-day comic books.

Machiko Hasegawa Museum Learn about one of Japan’s most beloved fictional families

Sazae-san was a popular Japanese comic strip about an ordinary Japanese family led by a good natured housewife from 1940s to 1970s. To give you some idea of its popularity, a television adaptation of Sazae-san manga series even made the Guinness World Record as the longest running animated television series. Its author Machiko Hasegawa was an art collector and her collection is also housed in the museum. The lightfilled, brick red building is in perfect harmony with the neighborhood. Besides original drawings, the museum showcases about 10,000 manuscripts, water paintings

© Hasegawa Machiko Art Museum

and tools. Get to know more about Machiko Hasegawa by paying a visit.

Information

Sazae-san clip 500 Yen

Tokiwa-so

Traditional Japanese wrapping cloth (small) 950 Yen

Hours: 10am-5:30pm (Last entry 5pm), Closed Monday (or the next day of a holiday), New Year holidays and exhibition change Admi ssion: 6 0 0 Ye n adult s , 5 0 0 Ye n high s cho ol an d university students, 400 Yen elementary school and middle school students Access: 10-min walk from Sakurashinmachi Station on the Tokyu Den-en-toshi Line URL: http://www.hasegawamachiko.jp

The birthplace of Japanese manga

Tokiwa-so was the living quar ters for 11 not able manga ar tis t s that created characters such as Atom Boy, Doraemon or Cyborg 009, which gave birth to the Japanese manga industry.

Osamu Tezuka, Fujiko F. Fujio and Shotaro Ishinomori all lived and worked in the building while sharing the struggles of becoming a manga artist. The current building is a partial reproduction of the original Tokiwaso, considered today the birthplace of Japanese manga. The museum lets you experience the lifestyle of manga artist Hiroo Terada, often thought of as the leader of this communit y of artists – up close thanks to the detailed reproduc tion of his room. On the f irs t f loor, there is an area where you can read the best works of these legendary artists.

Information

Having limited finance, the struggling manga artists would add shochu (Japanese liquor) to cider to get drunk cheaply.

This candy captures that flavor.

Tudor Candy 100 yen.

A folder with all your favorite manga characters 300 yen

Hours: Apr - Sep / 10am - 6pm, Oct - Mar / 10am - 5pm Closed Mondays (or the next weekday following a holiday) Admission: Free Access: 15-min walk from Shiinamachi Station on the Seibu Ikebukuro line.

URL: https://www.toshima-mirai.jp/ tokiwaso/

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Nakano Koenji

Chuo Line

Shinjuku

Tokyo

Shibuya

Nakano and Koenji

中野

中野

- Become a local Tokyoite -

Central Tokyo is an amazing world on its own, but have you ever asked yourself what else is there? If you hop on the JR Chuo line you can be in West Tokyo in a matter of minutes and experience a different Tokyo – exciting, yet laid back.

Among the locals, Nakano and Koenji are two of the most popular neighborhoods in Tokyo, and the same could even have been said of people of the centuries ago Edo era. Nakano and Koenji were the favorite cities of the shogun Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, (1646-1709) and his father, Tokugawa Iemitsu (16041651), loved spending time in Koenji.

We walked around both Nakano and Koenji during the day before enjoying the nightlife as a Tokyo local. We invite you to follow our journey via these pages and after that, why don’t you go and see West Tokyo for yourself?

NAKANO NORTH

Nakano

高円寺

Nakano Broadway 中野 ブロードウェイ

The new Akihabara has been discovered!

The first thing you will see when you leave the North exit of Nakano Station is the Nakano Sun Mall shopping area, or shotengai in Japanese, and at the end of the main shopping street you will find the Nakano Broadway shopping mall. This is one of the beloved Japanese pop-culture paradises, both for domestic and foreign fans. Don’t be fooled by the first floor which focuses on everyday life conveniences (clothes, food, cosmetics and so on) the real geek fun starts from the second floor up. Nakano Broadway has more than ten Mandarake shops, each of them dedicated to something different. There’s a special Gundam shop among the many other figurine shops, a full size alien doll that greets you from one of the other shop windows and One Piece themed shoes for sale in Converse!

What more could you want? I'm glad you asked, because Nakano Broadway has its own free Wi-Fi. You could spend your whole day inside here without needing anything else.

Hours: 11am – 8pm (*most hobby related stores open from 12pm) Address: 5-52 Nakano, Nakano-ku

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West Tokyo: Nakano and Koenji

The park of Philosophy Tetsugakudo-koen is not your common park; it was constructed by a philosopher and aims to engage your mind and deepen your understanding.

You enter through the “Gate of Common Sense” and exit through the “Gate of the Irrational”, symbolizing a return to the arbitrariness of daily life. Between these two gates are a lot of similarly uniquely named points. For example, a fork in the path is no ordinary thing, but rather the “Junction of Doubt”, so take a brochure from the park’s office to help you navigate.

The life of park’s creator, Inoue Enryo, is an intriguing story, in itself; he was a doctor of Philosophy, founder of Toyo University and a researcher of yokai (supernatural spirits, monsters, demons etc) and other mysteries. He dedicated most of his life to understanding the supernatural and he spent most of his earnings to construct this park.

To get there you need to take a bus (41 or 11, or inquire at the station) from Nakano station, but it’s just a ten minute ride and as you might expect, the road to knowledge is never short.

Hours: The park hours vary depending on the season. Please check with the Management Office for the exact hours before visiting.

Tetsu gakud koen o哲学堂

Address: 1-34-28 Matsugaoka, Nakano-ku

Provided by Nakano City Urban Policy Promotion Office,Metropolitan Tourism/Community Activation

公園

1

Gate of Common Sense

2

Skull Hemitage

3

Four Sages Hall

4

Pagoda of the Six Wise Ones

5

Junction of Doubt

6

Garden of Materialism

7

Tanuki Lamp

8

Fork of Dualism

9

Garden of Idealism

10

Demon Lamp

11

Road of Cognition

12

Citadel of the Absolute

13

Gate of the Irrational

NAKANO SOUTH Nabeya-Yokocho street

鍋屋横丁

Visits to Nakano shoutengai (a Japanese word for shopping street full of shops and restaurants, usually located in the city centre) and Broadway are still considered a special treat, so for an even more local taste go to Shin Nakano area, specifically Nabe-Yokocho street. This is a quieter area that also has restaurants and shops, but not packed together as closely as elsewhere.

If you want to know what ordinary people eat on ordinary days, you should keep away from the sushi, and try soba noodles for lunch.

Abumata Miso shop

Jingu Dofu tofu shop

あぶまた味噌

If you are a foodie and want to taste only the best of the best, we sampled two shops in the Nabeya-Yokocho area which you can buy Japanese ingredients for cooking.

Abumata Miso shop offers a variety of spices, soy sauces, amazake (sweet sake powder) and – as their name suggests – many kinds of miso, including Edo miso, a sweetish miso paste produced only in Tokyo. They have sales twice a month but the dates vary each month so check their website "http://www.abumata.com/"www.abumata.com Hours: 9am – 6pm, (closed on most weekends, unless there is a sale) Address: 3-32-19 Honcho, Nakano-ku

Jingu Dofu tofu shop

神宮豆腐店

For you tofu lovers, we know all tofu is great, but how about some award-winning tofu from Jingu Dofu? Their tofu has taken the Nakano grand-prix twice and their shop has been open for more than sixty years, so they really know their craft well. Everything is handmade and locals love the shop so much that Jingu Dofu leaves products for Abumata Miso shop

regular customers outside their shop early in the morning, before they open.

Hours: 10am - 6pm

Address: 3-32-52 Honcho, Nakano-ku

The Tokugawa shogun Family and Nakano, Koenji

Soba Restaurant “Matsuya”

松屋

At lunchtime we went for soba, the more humble

If you happen upon all the dog sculptures near Nakano station, you might, wonder what they're doing there, but we know the story. It is a memorial reminding people of the fifth shogun of the Edo period, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, who was also known as the “dog shogun”. He was born in the Year of the Dog and is said to have loved animals, especially dogs and is famous for making laws to protect them by completely banning their killing. These statues are now here in Nakano to mark the existence of five big public dog kennels built "Inuyashiki"（犬

cousin of ramen noodles. Matsuya had a very local vibe, with a wooden interior, kind staff and seemingly regular customers. The menu is written on the wall in Japanese only, but don’t worry, we can offer you the recommendation of the owner – tempura soba and kake soba. While you’re there, treat yourself to some Japanese sake and Abumata miso to pair it with.

屋敷）in Edo to house all the abandoned dogs. Reportedly, the kennels occupied

Hours: 11:30am – 2:30pm; 5:30pm – 9pm.

93 hectares in total and housed 100,000 dogs.

Closed: Sundays Address: 4-38-26, Honcho, Nakano-ku

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NAKANO SHOPPING STREET Nakano station is the next stop after Shinjuku station on the JR Chuo line, making it a very convenient location. It is a popular with both Japanese residents and foreigners who pride themselves in knowing Tokyo better than others. A lot of them call it ‘pure Tokyo’, ‘real Tokyo’, ‘everyday Tokyo’ etc.. Nakano is the kind of neighborhood where you can find anything and everything in one place which is a huge part of its appeal.

Forget the chain stores and dive into this area and don’t hesitate to explore the side alleys, where you can discover a treasure trove of unique cafes and restaurants. do and very popular. Shop after shop, it has everything you might want – clothes, jewellery, restaurants, cafes, sweet shops, gaming arcades and so on. The side alleys are even more charming, being less crowded and boasting some unique pubs and restaurants.

Yamazaki Memorial Nakano History and Folklore Museum

Japanese sweets in the heart of Nakano

Renge Temple Nogata Standpipe

Hyaku Kannon Meiji Temple

Araiyakushi Baishouin Temple

do ku ga

Nakano local café

tsu

Lin e

Te

Se ib uSh in ju ku

-d

or

i

Na

Numabukuro sta.

kan

o-d

ori

Tetsugakudokoen

Shin-Nakano sta.

NAKANO NORTH

Waseda-dori

梅家

Umeya is a shop for traditional Japanese desserts located on the main shopping street of Nakano Sun Mall and it has been there for more than 60 years! They sell

Nakano Broadway Nakano Shikinomori Park

Umeya

products to take home from the store front, but there are also comfortable tables in the back where you can sit

Sun Mall Shopping Arcade

down and get adventurous with your ordering. The walls

Umeya

The remains of the Nakano dogs mansion Nakano Sta.

Chuo Line

to Koenji

e lin ai z To

to Shinjuku

are full of autographs from celebrities who have visited the shop, most of them Nakano locals. For example, the owner told us how Japanese comedian Choshu Koriki has been coming there as a child with his mom. , although she also points out that this is a café for ordinary people to enjoy traditional sweets at affordable prices. Umeya has a warm local atmosphere which is welcoming to

Okubo-dor

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NAKANO SOUTH Jingu Dofu Tofu Shop Shin-Nakano sta.

Na be ya -Y ok oc ho S

tr.

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Matsuya

Nakano MAP

foreigners, and the owner says plenty of them often stop by when visiting Nakano Broadway. Umeya has an English menu, so you can order without the dread of the unknown. The shop is famous for their inarizushi, and the owner says their Shiratama Cream Anmitsu dessert (a mix of fruit, sweet red bean paste, syrup, cold agar

Marunouchi Line

Abutama Miso Shop

jelly cubes and ice cream) is always popular. She also recommends Oshiruko (sweet red bean paste and chewy rice balls) as a warm winter dessert.

Hours: 9:30am – 8pm Address: 5-58-6 Nakano, Nakano-ku

West Tokyo: Nakano and Koenji

Nakano 中野

The Nakano Sun Mall is the main shopping arcade in Nakano, full of fun things to

Every stylish person in Tokyo has shopped in and around Koenji at some point. It is a famous neighborhood that has a lot of second-hand clothes stores full of unique pieces. It is conveniently located on the JR Chuo line just ten minutes from Shinjuku. It's also known among the locals for its summer street festival Awa Odori, when large crowds gather to celebrate it.

This lively neighborhood has around fourteen shopping streets (shoutengai in Japanese) all of which vary in size and atmosphere. For a feel of the famous Koenji second hand shopping hit PAL Arcade and Look Street. Be sure to check out all of them on both sides of the train tracks, as they all have something to offer.

When night falls, Koenji takes off the cute vintage outfit and slips into its party outfit. This town

Koenji 高円寺

is famous for its nightlife, from old school Japanese style pubs to underground rock gigs.

This cool neighborhood is often featured as a location in different pop culture works, from movies to manga and books. Most famously it appears in “1Q84” by Murakami Haruki. Fans of the book can easily recognize the locations and be transported to the book world for a moment.

Day in Koenji A day in Koenji is usually spent shopping and visiting as many cute cafes as possible. Here, it’s not just the clothes that are vintage, but the cafes as well. You can also shop for jewelry, gifts, books, CDs and so on, and find some bargains when it comes to yukata or kimono.

If you like temples, Koenji has several of them, and the neighborhood itself is named after one of those temples. This time, we decided to check out an antique shop and two romantically unique cafes.

古道具 権ノ助

Furudogu Gonnosuke – Antique Shop This antique shop will take you back to times you don’t even remember. They sell everything, from old furniture, to collections of seashells and rock collections. Of course they also have jewelry, toys, cutlery and plates, clocks and other nostalgic items. The owner says foreigners prefer the uniquely Japanese items like small wooden dolls (called onsen kokeshi) that people used to buy from trips to the hot springs. He also told us that the majority of customers are young people, looking for something unique and unknown in

ネルケン

This beautiful café is an ode to classical music and fine art as well as something of a secret, so we had a hard time deciding to share it with everyone. The owner is an elegant lady who has been running the café for more than sixty years, playing only classical music and showcasing carefully selected paintings.

A fan of German classical music, she gave the whole café a European vibe and a German

these old objects.

name. Even the house is built in a way that

Hours: 12am – 8pm

would provide the best acoustics for the

Address: 2-9-8 Koenjikita, Suginami-ku

ESARU

NELKEN

エセルの中庭

music.

Hours: 11am – 10pm Address: 3-56-7 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku

This quaint hideaway is on the third floor, but makes you believe you’ve stepped into a garden at night. It is full of plants and even has an aquarium, and everything inside it is cute and romantic. They run a similar café on the second floor that is a library, so no speaking is allowed! Esaru has a lot of art and books as well, and sometimes they play audio books instead of music, making you feel like you’ve entered a fairytale.

Hours: 2pm – 8pm closed : Sundays. Address: 3-57-6 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku

All C's Café Located just a three-minute walk from Koenji Station's North exit, this cafe features an interior decoration resembling a gingerbread house, with comfy sofas and plush toys. Indulge your sweet tooth with "KAWAII" cookies, cakes and other tasty pastries and dishes.

Hours: 12am-11pm Address: Miyake Bldg. 2nd Floor, 3-25-24 Koenjikita, Suginami-ku 14

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The cafe offers a variety of cute, intricately decorated desserts in a fairy-tale atmosphere.

Night in Koenji Night-time in Koenji gets you in a good mood the moment you step out of the station. The pubs have their colorful lanterns on, people are drinking outside and chatting at on improvised tables, the roadside yakitori stands send smoke dancing happily out of their juicy meat skewers and you just want to go...everywhere.

Dizzy from all the possible partying choices, we decided

MATSURI DAIKO

to go for the more traditional Japanese drinking establishments, also known as nomiya or izakaya in

祭り太鼓

Next, we went to a spacious izakaya also located under the train tracks near Koenji

Japanese. They are beloved for their good drinks and

station which was really inviting with a nostalgic vibe, decorated as if it traveled

food and especially affordable prices.

here from the past. The best thing about this place is that they have so many dishes to order from. The staff recommend the stamina yakko, a concoction of

四文屋

SHIMONYA

SHIMONYA

tofu and various additions like okra, kimuchi, natto, eggs etc. If these ingredients are not to your taste, they also recommend one of their more interesting dishes:

This pub is just a hundred meters from Koenji station

mochi pizza. Another tip from the staff is to come and get a seat early on weekends

and a perfect example of convenience, being easy to get

because it gets crowded.

to with no table cover charge, an English menu available,

Hours: 5pm – 5am Address: 3-68-1 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku

unbelievably cheap prices, and above all, cool and friendly staff. It’s a small pub, which only adds to its charm and opens the possibility of getting to meet some new people, since they will be sitting close and the atmosphere is so relaxed.

Hours: 3pm – 12pm (11pm last order) Address: 3-69 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku

The Tokugawa shogun Family and Koenji Speakers of Japanese would instantly recognize that the name Koenji is a

mabashi park

Gonnosuke

even today. This temple was where the third shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu would spend time and stay the night whenever he came to the area to practice falconry Tokyo area wasn’t as urban as is today,

Koenji Sta.

but quiet and full of scenic nature.

MATSURI DAIKO Pal Shopping Pal Shopping Arcade Str.

ESARU

is called Shukuhozan Koenji Temple （ 宿 鳳 山 高 円 寺 ）and it can be visited

and hunting. At that time the West

SHIMONYA

NELKEN

Kannana-dori

All C’s cafe

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temples in Koenji, but the one which the neighbourhood takes its name from

Koushindoori Koushin-dori Shopping Str.

Chuo Line

the name of a temple. There are many

Waseda-dori

Moreover, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi’s dog kennel from the adjacent neighborhood of Nakano was big enough to reach

Koenji Temple

as far as Koenji. Both of these West Tokyo areas have a strong historical connection to the Tokugawa family.

Koenji MAP

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West Tokyo: Nakano and Koenji

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Winter Fun around Mt. Fuji

Plenty of Exciting Activities to Keep You Busy

l ra v e Pa s s T r te ji W i n M t. Fu with

In some areas of Japan, winter means heavy snow, a bitter chill and total silence. But this isn't the case at Mt. Fuji, where you can find winter activities in abundance! Every year, a large number of tourists flock in not

only to appreciate the breathtaking landscape, but to experience all sorts

of winter fun. To give you an idea of how amazing this place is, we hopped on a bus from Shinjuku Station and headed straight for Snowtown Yeti, a renowned ski resort located on at the Second Station of Mt. Fuji. The

Mt. Fuji Pass is strongly recommended for smart, independent travelers

because it gives you access to major attractions around Mt. Fuji and offers unlimited train and bus rides on designated routes.

135 min

Day Trip to Snowtown Yeti

A Whole New Experience Skiing with Mt. Fuji in the Background

D e par t u re f rom S h i n ju ku Stat i on

135 min

T h e s e a s o n a t S n o w t o w n Ye t i star ted on October 6 this year, making this the first ski resort to be open in Japan for 19 consecutive winters. Due to its close proximity to Tokyo, a day trip is more than enough to explore this winter paradise.

No wonder Snowtown Yeti is loved by Tokyo-based foreigners and mountain enthusiasts!

A r r i val at S n ow tow n Yeti S ki wea r a n d s k i s et ren ta l *Extra charge applies to ski wear

S l e d re n ta l at S n ow Act i v i t y P l a za

Sn ow tow n Ye t i of fe r s fo ur co ur s e s of v ar y ing difficulty, making this place suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers. Slope A is tailor-made for beginners, with a total length of one kilometer and a height of 150 meters. For first timers who are intimidated by lifts, there is a magic carpet on the slope to help you get around. Slope D is the most challenging, with an average angle of 16 degrees and a maximum angle of 25 degrees. Intermediate and advanced skiers will not want to miss this course. A special area is reserved for sledding and is absolutely family friendly.

* Extra charge applies

Le s s o n s f ro m i n st ructors

*Extra charge applies, contact the Snow School for more information

Lunch time! Enjoy the specialty of Yeti, a cute rice snowman bathing in a bowl of curry!

Continue the fun on the snow 16

WAttention Tokyo

Direct Bus Takes You to Snowtown Yeti from Shinjuku

Back to Shinjuku Station

Unlimited fun with Mt. Fuji Pass

d3 D 1, 2 anva ilable ay

Pass A

Best Deal Ever

Mt. Fuji ranks as one of the top destinations for travelers visiting Tokyo because it offers the perfect combination of nature and excitement. Fuji Five Lakes, Fugaku Wind Cave, Narusawa Ice Cave and Fuji-Q Highland are some of the attractions that will leave you speechless. To get the most out of your visit, a Mt. Fuji Pass is a must-have. Choose from one day, two day and three day passes according to your schedule and be prepared to explore every corner of Mt. Fuji.

In winter, snow gives Mt. Fuji a different look, providing to it a touch of fantasy and wonder.

With a Mt. Fuji Pass, you can take local buses operating in Yamanashi and the Shizuoka Fujisan area and receive unlimited rides on Fujikyu Railway trains, giving you hassle-tree access to Fuji Five Lakes, Mishima, Gotemba Premium Outlet, Lake Kawaguchiko Pleasure Boat "En Soleille" and Lake Yamanakako Pleasure Boat "Swan Lake". Landscape lovers shouldn't miss to chance to ride Mt. Kachi Kachi Ropeway, which takes you to amazing views of Lake Kawaguchiko and Mt. Fuji.

There are also exclusive discounts waiting for you at the Oshino Ninja Village, La Ville de Gaspard et Lisa and 10 other facilities and restaurants in the area.

The Mt. Fuji Pass is designed to make your trip around Mt. Fuji as flexible, economic and enjoyable as possible!

BUS ¥1,510

BUS ¥1,360

Otsuki Sta.

TRAIN ¥960

Snowtown Yeti

Mishima Sta.

HOTEL

Gotemba Sta.

TRAIN ¥300

stay for 1night

Shimo yoshida Sta.

Pleasure Cruiser "En Soleille" ¥930

BUS ¥670

Chureito Pagoda

BUS ¥150

Saiko Fugaku Wind Cave ¥350

Shimo yoshida Sta.

BUS ¥150

Kawaguchiko Sta.

Kawaguchiko Sta.

Otsuki Sta.

TRAIN ¥1,140

Mt. Kachi Kachi Ropeway ¥800

BUS ¥670

Kawaguchiko Sta.

Suggested Itinerary with Mt. Fuji Pass

BUS ¥1,600

⇒ Cost of the two day trip without a pass 9,330 Yen

⇒ Cost of one- day trip without a pass: 6,120 Yen

How to Get There?

➊ From Tokyo

You can book a ticket package online at YOKOSO Japan Tour website. The package includes a 1 day ski ticket, ski/snowboard set rental (including board and boots), roundtrip bus ticket to and from Shinjuku and multilingual costumer support. Although you can come empty handed, ski wear and small items like gloves are not included in the package. Buses can make a stop at Yokohama upon request.

Purchase Tickets at this website:

How to Get the Pass?

❷ From the Outskirts of Tokyo

Set off from JR Gotemba Station, JR Mishima Station, JR Susono Station, JR Fuji Station, Yoshiwara Chuo Station or JR Fujinomiya Station with a discount pass that includes a round-trip bus ticket and a day ski pass. For an extra fee, you can buy the discount pass with a rental set—an even better value!

Tr i v i a

An Austrian named Kratzer is said to be the first person to ski in Japan. He was seen skiing around Mt. Fuji in December of 1910. To pay tribute to Kratzer, Snowtown Yeti set up a memorial to commemorate “the first ski place in Japan” on its grounds. Wouldn’ t it be nice to ski in a place with such historical significance?

Yo u c a n b u y t h e pa s s at t i c ke t booths available at Otsuki Station, Kawaguchiko Station, Mt. Fuji Station, Asahigaoka Bus Terminal, Gotemba Station, Mishima Station, Shin-Fuji Station and Fujinomiya Station.

1 Day Pass

Adult Fare：

Child Fare：

1 Day Pass 5,500 Yen 1 Day Pass 2,750 Yen 2 Day Pass 8,000 Yen 2 Day Pass 4,000 Yen 3 Day Pass 10,000 Yen 3 Day Pass 5,000 Yen

*You will need to show your passport when purchasing the pass in Japan. *For more information about Mt. Fuji Pass, please visit this website: http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/mtpass/

Mind-blowing Roller Coasters

Fuji-Q Highland is one of Japan's most popular theme parks, with several Guinness World Record roller coasters and attractions. Enjoy a stunning view of Mt. Fuji as you rush down on the roller coaster at full speed! Winter exclusive attractions are also available, such as an ice skating rink and a snow playground for kids and adults.

The one - day free pass is the most cost effective as it includes the entrance fee and entr y to all attractions.

Fuji-Q Highland How to Get the Pass

You can buy the pass before you leave for Japan.

Buy it online at JAPANiCAN.com!

fuji-q japanican

For more tourist information about Mt. Fuji Area, please refer to the WAttention website.

How to Make the Best of 3 Hours in Tokyo It is the last day of your trip and you have three hours left before departing for the airport. Don’t know what to do with the time?

WAttention did the homework for you. Here is a three hour itinerary that will leave you entertained, refreshed and with lots of memories of Japan!

Ikebukuro 池袋

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With over 2.5 million visitors per day, Ikebukuro Station is one of the busiest transportation hubs in Tokyo. Thanks to all the people passing through, Ikebukuro is as lively and bustling as Shinjuku and Shibuya. Expect to encounter a mosaic of traditional Japanese culture, history, fashion and subculture in this place. The best way to art t learn about this vibrant location is to pay it a S visit and see it for yourself.

Toden Arakawa Line 都 電 荒 川 線 / Toden Zoshigaya Sta. 都 電

South Ikebukuro Park 南池袋公園 / Racines FARM to PARK A seven minute walk from Ikebukuro Station’s East

雑司ヶ谷駅

Gate Exit takes you to an oasis tucked away in the

Toden Arakawa Line

middle of a bustling city. Enjoy a moment's zen at

is the only remaining

South Ikebukuro Park and have a hearty brunch at

streetcar line in Tokyo,

Racines FARM to PARK, a café owned by a popular restaurant called Racines Boulangerie Bistro. It's not a bad idea to fill your stomach before embarking on a three hours walk!

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traveling bet ween Minowabashi and Waseda. If you are at

South Ikebukuro Station, walk towards Higashi Ikebukuro Station and you'll soon see Toden Zoshigaya Station.

Watch as the cute-retro streetcar roam slowly through the streets of modern Tokyo, and if time is on your side,

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we strongly recommend that you take the tram and

Kishimojin-do Temple 鬼子母神堂 Located in the area of Zoshigaya, Kishimojin-do Temple is where locals visit to pray for a safe childbirth. The main building was constructed in 1664 and has undergone several renovations that have left traces of history on the architecture. The trees along the stone paved path connecting Toden Kishimojin Mae Station and the Buddhist temple are 400 years old and as intriguing as ever.

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experience a different facet of Tokyo.

SK Y CIRCUS Sunshine60 Observatory SKY CIRCUS サンシャイン 60 展望台 Built in the 1970s, the sk yscraper Sunshine 60 is symbolic of Japan’s economic boom. This historical landmark has witnessed many changes in Tokyo over the past decades. Today, it’s not only an observatory with an extraordinary view, but also an entertainment space offering a full sensor y experience through virtual reality technologies.

Fly through the skies of Tokyo and get transported to the future!

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WAttention Tokyo

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RINGO Ikebukuro RINGO 池袋店 The taste of RINGO’s apple pies is one of a kind. The apple pie has a crispy crust, melt-in-your-mouth apple filling and rich custard cream with the perfect blend of sweetness and flavor. The rich dessert is a harmony of taste, smell and feel for your senses. No wonder there is always a long line in front of the Ikebukuro store, which is the one and only branch in Tokyo.

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Edogawa Rampo Memorial Center for Popular Culture Studies,Rikkyo University

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立教大学 江戸川乱歩記念 大衆文化研究センター Ta r o H i r a i , ( Pe n N a m e Edogawa Rampo) is widely regarded as the father of Japanese mystery novels. He was greatly inspired by Edgar Allan Poe and adopted a pseudonym based on the Japanese phonetic pronunciation of the American writer's name. He moved into a house next to Rikkyo University in 1934 where he lived until his death in 1965.

Renamed as the Edogawa Rampo Memorial Center for Popular Studies, Rikkyo University. His library has around 20,000 books and documents and is now open to the public every Wednesday and Friday. Though located a bit far from the

SEIBU Tourist Information Center Ikebukuro 西武ツーリストインフォメー

house, the Main Dining Hall of the university, built in 1919, is also worth a visit for

ションセンター池袋

travelers looking for a local experience.

SEIBU Tourist Information Center Ikebukuro

❻

is operated by staff who speak English,

Ikebukuro Station

❼

Tokyo Metro

Chinese and various other languages.They

❺

are dedicated to providing travelers with timely assistance and travel information

❹

Sunshine 60

Seibu Line

◀ Scan this QR code for details about the places featured.

departing for Narita Airport, you can get the Skyliner Value Ticket with special discount

❶

JR Line

about Ikebukuro and Seibu Line. Before

South Ikebukuro M et Park ro p

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(Bell Tower)

WAttention Tokyo

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Shinagawa 品川

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Shinagawa was a post station (a place for travelers to rest and resupply) on the Tokaido, the main road taking travelers from Tokyo to Kyoto in the Edo period. Although known as a town which provided lodging to weary travelers in the past, the Shinagawa of today plays an important role in the transportation and commerce sectors.

Discover a different side of the city by taking a stroll along the Tokaido highway while you imagine a Japan without high technology, or walk a bit further to enjoy the scenery of Tennozu Canal.

Maxell AQUA PARK SHINAGAWA マクセルアクアパーク品川 The park features the world ’s f irst touchcontrolled aquarium and a gigantic underwater tunnel where you can watch all kinds of fish dancing around you. The 360-degree stadium, equipped with water curtains, lights and sound, is where the dolphin show takes place. Jumping dolphins and splashes of water may be just what you need to make your trip more exciting and vigorous.

2 Shinatatsu Shinagawa 品達品川 Just nex t to Shinagawa Station and below the railway tracks of the Keikyu Line lies Shinatatsu, an alley lined with seven distinct ramen shops and five donburi rice bowl dishes. Whether you're a big fan of tonkotsu or shio, the different flavors are guaranteed to satisfy picky eaters. Before hopping on a train, don’t forget to enjoy some delicious slurping here!

3 Gotenyama Garden 御殿山庭園 Gotenyama was a notable spot for cherry blossoms viewing during the Edo period and it also served as a hunting ground for the Tokugawa Shogunate.

For those interested in art, its beauty is captured by ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai in the Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji. The garden belongs to Gotenyama Trust City, and is home to four hundred cherry trees, attracting tourists from both Japan and abroad every spring. In summer enjoy hydrangea, in autumn, red leaves and gingko, and in winter camellia hiemalis flowers. Enjoy a cup of tea at the tea house and let time pass you by in this colorful, aromatic garden.

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Shinagawa-juku 品川宿 Shingawa-juku was one of the post stations along the Tokaido (a road connecting Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo period). It is located between present-day Kita-Shinagawa Station and Aomono-Yokocho Station.

Although the area sustained fire damage in the past and is not as crowded as it used to be hundreds of years ago, a stroll through this nostalgic neighborhood is still charming.

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WAttention Tokyo

Tennozu Isle 天王洲アイル Located in Tokyo Bay, Tennozu Isle is popular among Tokyoites as a h o li da y re s o r t . T h e a re a is h o m e to a v a r ie t y of c ul t ur a l establishments such as ar t galleries and theatres surrounded by water and green spaces. This is the ideal place to encounter Japanese art and culture. There are also chic shops and restaurants on the waterfront for you to explore. Visit Tennozu Isle and indulge in a relaxing atmosphere in the middle of the bustling city of Tokyo.

❽

❻

Daiich

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i-Kehin

❼

Shinagawa Station

Toden Arakawa Line

▲ Scan this QR code for details about the places featured.

JR Line

Shibaura Chuo Park 芝浦中央公園

❶

A calm oasis nestled in the middle of busy streets, Shibaura Chuo Park is where wild nature joins in perfect harmony with the skyscrapers of Tokyo. If you happen to visit between May and midOctober, you'll have the opportunity to see roses in full bloom.

Keikyu Main Line

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SHINAGAWA SEASON TERRACE 品川シーズンテラス The open terrace on the second floor of Shinagawa Season Terrace commands an excellent view of Tok yo Tower, with cherr y blossoms blooming in the background in spring and vivid autumn leaves adding a touch of nostalgia during fall. You can also take in a gorgeous view of the tower in the evening with all its lights on. If you are a lover of Japanese drama, don’t miss the chance to visit this actual shooting location.

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Tozenji Temple 東禅寺 This temple has a history that dates back to the Edo period.

In 1859, one year after Britain and Japan signed a treaty of commerce, the British Embassy was opened in the temple precinct. However, the temple was attacked by locals who fiercely resisted foreign intrusion. It is said that sword cuts and bullet marks still remain in the pillar of the Okushuin and the genkan. History comes to life when you step into this magnificent temple.

Back to Shinagawa Station

WANTED: WAttention Ninja!

WAttention is now recruiting foreign reporters who want to collect and spread information about Japan as WAttention Ninja

Interested?

Wanna know how to become a WAttention Ninja? Go to ▼

WA

http://www.wattention.com/ninja WAttention Tokyo

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Shinjuku 新宿

An average of 3.47 million people use Shinjuku Station every day, making it the world’s busiest station according to the Guinness World Records.

Apart from being the place where JR lines, private lines and subway lines converge, Shinjuku is also known as the administrative center of Tokyo due to the presence of the majestic Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. You will have no trouble finding fancy restaurants and fun entertainment in this town which never sleeps.

Visiting Shinjuku will definitely make your trip more enjoyable and memorable.

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Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal バ スタ新 宿 / Shinjuku Service Center Although Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal is a transportation hub for express buses heading

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all over Japan, it also has a variety of restaurants offering a satisfying choice of food and clothes shops where you can kill time before your departure. If you have trouble finding a coin locker, the Shinjuku Service Counter on the third floor is there to help, offering luggage delivery and storage services. After stowing away your luggage, it’s time to stroll around and enjoy the last three hours of your trip in Tokyo.

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Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Observatories 東京都庁展望室 One of the must-dos in Tokyo is to take in the city’s aweinspiring, magnificent skyline. Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower both offer great views but Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building is the place where you can enjoy the city’s horizon for free. Measuring 202 meters in height, the observatory decks of fer a glimpse of Mt Fuji on a clear day between December and February. It might be a good idea to wave goodbye to the iconic mountain before departure!

Nishi Shinjuku Toky

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Shinjuku Store

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Shinjuku Station JR Line

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Keio Line

Shinjuku Takashimaya

Established over 100 years ago, this park was an Imperial garden before being opened to the public following World War II. Shinjuku Gyoen combines three styles of garden: French Formal, English Landscape and Japanese Traditional.

It is a marvel of the perfect blend of Japanese and Western aesthetics and really worth a visit. From cherry blossoms in spring to the soft greens of summer, Shinjuku Gyoen is an ideal place to enjoy the change of seasons.

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Hanazono Shrine 花園神社 ▲ Scan this QR code for details about the places featured.

Odakyu Line

Line

Shinjuku Gyoen 新宿御苑

Shinjuku Gyoenmae

❸

Hanozono Shrine was known as the protector of the district long before Tokugawa Ieyasu ’s Edo Period.

Before its relocation, the historic shrine was housed at the site of today's Isetan Shinjuku Department Store. Due to a stage being built inside during reconstruction after a fire, entertainment shows and traditional dances began to take place here in the Edo Period. The shrine is a popular place to pray for good business and prosperity. Why not try your luck here?

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Natural Hot Spring Thermae-yu 天然温泉テルマー湯

Enjoy Izu’s Jindai-no-yu natural hot spring right in the bustling heart of Shinjuku. This is a great place to relax the mind and body for travelers. Known as the beautification spring, the mild water is high in quality and can soften the skin. There are six other relaxing facilities including carbonic acid bath and sauna to choose from. Not a bad idea to soak in before flying off.

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Godzilla Head ゴジラヘッド To c e l e b r a t e t h e 6 0 t h anniversar y of Godzilla’s deb u t , t he Shinjuk u Toho Building has ins t alled the giant head of this monster on its outdoor terrace. Passers by on the ground can take a picture of Godzilla breaking i t s way t hroug h hig h - r is e buildings—a nice souvenir to look back on!

SAMURAI MUSEUM サムライミュージアム

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Japan? Many people associate Japan with samurai, a culture that is not only confined to his tor y book s but s till alive in modern Japan. The Samurai Museum introduces the authentic samurai spirit through a display of relics, armors and all sorts of items. A free 60 to 90 Wattention w200mm×h60mm minute guided tour is recommended for those with more time. Put on a samurai helmet and costume for a photo shoot and get blown away by a reenactment of a sword fight.

8 Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho 新宿西口思い出横丁

Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho, a bunch of old, low story buildings occupying the prime location of Shinjuku, is the best place to observe the life of office workers in Japan as they come here after work for a drink to unwind. It is a trip down memory lane for many because of the well-preserved atmosphere of the t=0mm Showa Period (1926-1989). The eateries and bars here provide mouthwatering cuisine and a place of communication between travelers and locals.

2017.08.18

Back to Shinjuku Station

Narita Airport

Haneda Airport

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 72-hour

￥6,000

34.8%

5,700

30.5%

￥3,400

17.1%

Adult

Smooth and Comfortable Cruising

from Airport!

Unlimited rides on All

Tokyo Subway Lines!

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 48-hour Adult

￥

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 24-hour Adult

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 72-hour Adult

3,500

35.9%

3,200

28.3%

1,800

20%

￥

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way 2） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 48-hour Adult

￥

OFF

Limousine Bus Ticket（one way） + Tokyo Subway Ticket 24-hour Adult

￥

OFF

WAttention Tokyo

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Di * O n e co ow sc o t 1, his paun upon per 00 ge fot T perso 0 r a diisccke n y oun t Sh

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Chanika CHITTARARAK : Thailand

Warm up for craziness at the Robot Lounge The colorful, glittering decorations in this lounge harken back to the disco per iod of t he ear l y 9 0 s .

Before the main show begins , you can enjoy the per formance by the live band, which features a robotic pianist and drummer who perform the warming up shows at the glittering and bling-filled Robot Lounge to welcome you to the world of robots. There are plenty of seats where you can relax, along with a bar enabling you to kick back and relax with a drink in your hand while waiting for the main show to begin.

From epic battles to playful parades The show s t ar t s with a parade of robot s and cute young women who arrive to the accompaniment of laser, neon lights and the kind of music that just makes you want to stand up in your seat and dance along!

To summarize, anyone who wants memories of a truly unforgettable night to take away with them should look no further than a night at the Robot Restaurant.

The first part of the show combined traditional Japanese culture with more modern subculture such as anime, making for a lineup of robots and dancers mixed with taiko drums, daruma dolls, ninjas, warriors and even sushi putting in an appearance.

For those craving a more dramatic show, however, this parade was followed by true matches of Titans, with dinosaurs and dragons battling it out along with fire effects, dazzling light and, of course, blood thumping music!

Last but by no means least, a parade of robots in costumes of dolls, ponies, parrots and other wild and wacky things come out to the music of well-known songs. Audience participation in the form of waving light sticks is strongly encouraged by the staff.

Mackenzie Smith: We found this place on the internet.

Actually this is my second time visiting Robot Restaurant.

The show is different from last time I came.

But it is still very wild.

Rebecca McDougall: This is my first time at Robot Restaurant. We're here on vacation in Japan and will leave tomorrow. So we dicided to spend our last night at this place to take in the lively and unique show.

Tokyo McDougall from Toronto, Canada 24 WAttention Mackenzie Smith & Rebecca

Robot Restaurant Address: 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku Times: 4pm – 11pm (Shows: 4pm, 5.55pm, 7.50pm, 9.45pm) 1 show approx. 90 min Admission: 8,000 Yen Access: 5-min walk from JR and Tokyo Metro Shinjuku Station URL: http://www.shinjuku-robot.com/pc/index.php?lng=en

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1. Once 2. Twice 3. Three or more times 4. Subscriber ❸ Which articles did you find most interesting in WAttention Tokyo Vol.26?

Choose all that apply 1. In Harmony with the Seasons 2. Tokyo Hot News 3. Tokyo’s Coolest Museums to Visit Right Now! 4. West Tokyo: Nakano & Koenji – Become a local Tokyoite 5. Short Trip from Tokyo Winter Fun around Mt. Fuji 6. Another 3hr Trip – How to Make the Best of 3 Hours in Tokyo 7. Recharge batteries at the lively Robot Restaurant 8. Setouchi City: Legendary swords, stunning landscapes & romantic islands 9. Words of Japan – Joya no Kane (New Year’s Eve Bell)

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Setouchi City:

Setouchi City Tokyo

Osaka

legendary swords, stunning Bizen Osafune Japanese Sword Museum: The Home of the Japanese Sword.

Iron sand, magnolia wood, ray skin and silk threads are only some of the raw materials that are transformed into both a deadly weapon and a work of art at the hands of seven different types of artisans. In Japan, swords have always been considered true treasures, and although they are no longer wielded in battle, they are currently sought after by collectors, offered as presents to shrines or simply acquired as an amulet to avoid bad luck.

One of the proudest traditions among the five different schools of sword making in Japan is Bizen Osafune, where around half of the existing swords designated as National Treasures were made. The

There are three essential elements to Japanese swords: their use, their beauty and their spirit. The use refers to its ability to cut; its beauty can be judged by its appearance, whether or not its style or shape is beautiful. These two elements are probably the same for swords made in other countries. However, only Japanese swords have a spirit. When I became a sword smith I understood the importance of the spirit. In order to preserve our katana, we have to teach the next generation the importance of not just the use and the beauty but also the spirit.

– Yokoi Shouji/Sword smith

Basically, they are said to be works of art, but from our point of view, that’s just the result. People look at them and think they are

area flourished due to its strategic location and the abundance of iron sand in the surrounding mountains, which is used to make steel clusters (the raw material to forge swords). The Bizen Osafune Japanese Sword Museum in Setouchi City, Okayama prefecture exhibits a variety of masterpieces and is the only place in Japan that offers a demonstration on a regular basis of the old method of forging a sword by hammering and folding an iron clump, on the second Sunday of each month. You can also order your own custommade Japanese sword at the museum.

just works of art because they are no longer used as swords, but we

The museum is also the only place in Japan where

make them capable of serving their purpose, as if they were actually

visitors can take a peek into the ateliers of all seven

going to be used. We ensure that they can fulfill their functionality.

kinds of artisans that create Japanese swords in a

It is precisely because of this functionality that they are beautiful.

single place. From the forge where sword smiths

– Yukinori Hashimoto/Hilt maker

give the blade its shape to the polisher with his eight different kinds of whetstones, to the collar blade maker, the scabbard maker, the scabbard lacquerer, the engraver and the hilt maker. Only after seeing the artisans deep in concentration can you truly understand why Japanese swords have achieved a worldwide reputation as the ultimate weapon.

Photo by Takemi Nishi

Bizen Osafune Japanese Sword Museum Hours: 9am – 5pm (last admission 4:30pm) Admission: General admission is 500 yen, discount available for students and seniors.

Access: From Okayama Station, take a 30-minute train ride on the JR Ako line to Osafune Station and then a 7-minute taxi ride to the museum.

URL: https://www.okayama-japan.jp/en/spot/1073 26

WAttention Tokyo

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Access: Oku and Osafune Stations in Setouchi city can be easily reached in approximately 30 minutes by train on the JR Ako line from Okayama Station, which is just an hour away by Shinkansen from Kyoto and 35 minutes away from Hiroshima, while flying from Tokyo takes about an hour.

O W E S F R O M T

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landscapes & romantic islands.

Ushimado

Facing the Seto Inland Sea, Ushimado

Ushimado Shrine sits on the top of a hill next to the beach and is often visited by couples wishing for success in their love life.

has a long histor y as a ship-making town that made it a prominent port in the

A visit to Ushimado would not be complete without a stroll around its

area. Today, however, it’s known for its

picturesque streets, filled with historical buildings such as Honrenji

stunning landscape of deep blue waters

Temple, which used to welcome Korean diplomats on their way to Edo

dotted with dozens of small islands,

(Tokyo) and was recently registered in UNESCO’s Memory of the

earning the area the nickname “The

World Programme, or the old wooden tower that served as a lighthouse

Aegean Sea of Japan”.

for passing ships. Some of the beautiful wooden buildings that served

T he cl i m at e r e se mble s t h at of t he

as warehouses or living quarters for the merchants of Ushimado back

Mediter ranean, creating the perfect

in the Edo period have now become trendy cafés offering the perfect

conditions for olive growing. Ushimado

opportunity to take a break from your tour.

Olive Garden, located on top of a hill,

Access: From Okayama Station, take a

boasts breathtaking views of the idyllic

25-minute train ride on the JR Ako line to Oku Station and then a 20 min bus

landscape from its observatory, while a

ride to Ushimado bus stop.

wide variety of olive based cosmetics are for sale in the souvenir shop.

Touring the islands of Ushimado from The Hotel Limani & Spa Ushimado’s idyllic landscape can also be enjoyed from the water. Visitors can rent a yacht and explore the area at their own pace, or head over to The Hotel Limani & Spa. From there, both guests of the hotel and general tourists can make use of the speedboat service that takes passengers from Ushimado to Kuroshima, an uninhabited island famous for its Venus Road, a stretch of sand that appears on low tide connecting Kuroshima Island, Nakanokojima Island and the nearby Hatanokojima Island.

The Venus road and a heart-shaped rock found on the island give it a romantic atmosphere, making it popular among couples.

The Hotel Limani & Spa itself is a great option for spending a few days, featuring a Greek-inspired architecture of white and blue elements and an elegant colonnade adorning the pool. Guests can enjoy breathtaking views of the sun setting behind the many little islands of the Seto Inland Sea and indulge in authentic Greek cuisine.

Thanks to the hotel’s mostly foreign-born staff, the language barrier is not a problem for visitors who don’t speak Japanese.

The Hotel Limani & Spa Address: Okayama, Setouchi, Uchimadocho, Ushimado 3900 URL: http://www.limani.jp/ WAttention Tokyo

Information: http://www.city.setouchi.lg.jp/journey/ (in Japanese)

http://www.i-setouchi.org/ (in Japanese)

https://www.okayama-japan.jp/en/

27

Words of Japan

vol.12

Ring in the new year cleansed of spiritual troubles

迷いを祓い新たな年を迎える「除夜の鐘」 Joya no Kane ~ [New Year's Eve Bell] Another year has flown by, and soon it will be time to welcome a new one.

For many generations, Japan has celebrated an annual custom of striking a temple bell on the night of December 31st to welcome the new year.

Bells hung on temple grounds are Buddhist ritual implements used to notify the time. The Buddhist temple bells are called Bonsho. They are made of bronze, with some bells weighing over seven tons.

The Joya no Kane begins ringing late at night on December 31st.

The bell is struck for the final time at midnight on January 1st.

The bell is struck 108 times. In Buddhism, this is the number of Bonno (earthly desires) humans are said to possess. Bonno are feelings of anxiety, dismay and agony. With over 100 desires, this number probably signifies that humans carry many troubles in their hearts. By the way, the Chichi, small protruding round spheres on the surface of the bell, also add up to 108.

Temple priests strike the large bells with all their being, expressing gratitude for the year that is coming to an end and praying “ 今年も良い年でありますように ” (“May this year may also be a good year”). The sounds of tolled Bonsho resonate throughout the night air, leaving the soul with the refreshing feeling of being cleansed.

With the new year in mind, I chose a stunning white hand-made Japanese paper for this letter.

I see ink from characters like “ 夜 ” (night) and “ の ” (belonging to) run and smear, as if in expression of the ending year. I use plenty of ink to draw the character “ 鐘 ” (bell). Just like a large heavy bell, I try to express that size and weight by making the character wide and bold.

I pray that we all may usher in the new year with the ringing of Joya no Kane.

Koran Onishi

Profile of Koran Onishi A contemporary Japanese calligrapher who has received numerous accolades, including Excellent Work Awards at the 2015 and 2016 Mainichi Shodo Competition.

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WAttention Tokyo

Address: Sakado 631, Sakura, Chiba

Hours: 9:30am – 5pm (Last entry 4:30pm)

The museum will be closed for maintenance work from December 4, 2017 to March 23, 2018. The gardens, gift shop, and restaurant are will remain open. (Closed Monday) Please see opening dates ▶︎ http://kawamura-museum.dic.co.jp/en/