Malaysia Edition
Tokyo - Singapore - L.A - Taiwan - Thailand - Paris - Hong Kong - Indonesia - Mexico - Australia
TA K E FREE
Spring 2018 VOL.24
PP18029/03/2013 (033318)
中野
Nakano Koenji
www.wattention.com
高円寺
TRAVEL with
Canon 神磯の鳥居｜茨城県
Oarai Kamiiso no Torii, Ibaraki Prefecture Found off the breathtaking coastline, the historically rich Oarai Isosaki Shrine is a sacred spot which received offerings from the Imperial Court in the past. Of the three torii gates found here, the most famous one is Oarai Kamiiso no Torii (Gate of the Seashore God). Facing the Pacific Ocean, you will be astounded by the sight of strong waves crashing repeatedly against the rock upon which the gate stands.
Photographer: Asmady Bin Ahmad (Malaysia) Camera Model: Canon EOS M6 Lens Model: Canon EF-M 11-22mm f/4-5.6 IS STM
PERFORMANCE with Style
Canon Malaysia
iLikeCanonCamera
canonmalaysia
snapshot.canon-asia.com
暦 Koyomi 5 May
こよみを楽しむ
IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASONS
Tango no Sekku 端午の節供
teks & koordinasi/ Rieko Ido, foto/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング:井戸理恵子、写真:渡辺肇
One of the Gosekku, or five seasonal festivals featured in the Chinese lunar calendar of the Tang Dynasty, is the Tango no Sekku, now known as “Children’s Day”. On this day, samurai helmets or warrior figurines, as well as carp streamers are displayed to celebrate and pray for the robust growth of children, particularly boys. Originally a day for “herb harvesting”, this tradition has become a part of Japan’s seasonal landscapes. Before this began, vitalizing herbs were picked on this day to mark the change in seasons. According to the lunar calendar, May is known as the Month of the Horse. This is also the start of the rainy season, when cold rainfall
4
| WAttention Malaysia
cools the body and is the cause of long illnesses. During this time, ancestors chose Tango no Sekku, the day charged with the most energy to head to the mountains to pick herbs. The women would pick herbs while the men would hunt for deer and retrieve the horns prized for their medicinal value. The origin for this custom is ancient, with records harking back to the year 611 when the Empress went herb-harvesting in Nara and used them to warm her body. This was done by boiling the herbs to drink or inhaling their fragrance. Clothes were infused with the aroma of herbs and herb sachets were also carried around.
Tango no Sekku then evolved into a day to pray for the healthy development of boys from the Tokugawa era. The custom of displaying warrior figurines stemmed from the name of the Iris flower. Believed to improve blood circulation and help to ward away evil spirits, it sounds like the respectful term for warrior, which adds to its auspicious air.
Rieko Ido Tamatan Universitas Kokugakuin, seorang peneliti adat-istiadat dan ilmu pengetahuan kuno Jepang, melakukan analisis teknis pada penemuan-penemuan untuk mengaplikasikannya pada gaya hidup moderen. Sekarang mengajar di Universitas Seni Tama.
VOL.24
WEST TOKYO NAKANO & KOENJI 04
In Harmony with the Seasons
06
West Tokyo Nakano & Koenji
13
Discovering the charms of Nagano
14
16
Travel via Hokuriku Shinkansen with Chanwon NHK World Japanese Food Vol.04 Wasabi: Straight to the Source
Publisher
Shuji Ozawa FLP YOMIKO Malaysia Sdn Bhd 100.02.043, 129 Offices, Block J, Jaya One. No.72A, Jalan Universiti, 46200 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Malaysia Tel: +603 9544 3938 E-mail: yasui@flp-yomiko.com
Editor in Chief Kunio Yasui
Japan & Singapore Editorial Team Naoki Kiyota / Ayako Miyazaki Chew Yan Qiao / Lam Ying Wai Eric Voon / Yuka Suzuki / Kenji Ishida
Photographer
Hajime Watanabe
Partners
WAttention Co., Ltd, WAon Pte Ltd
Cover Photo
Photos of Nakano & Koenji
Advertising inquiry in Malaysia
Aim Nat ................. Graphic Designer Ken Chin ................ Co-ordinator
Japan Representive
Tel: +81-3-6418-5701 Fax: +81-3-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com
WAttention is a publication of FLP YOMIKO Malaysia Sdn Bhd. All articles published are in good faith and based on bonafide information available to The Publisher at the time of press. The Publisher accepts no responsibility other than that stipulated by law. The Publisher also accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or full without the previous written permission of The Publisher. Neither can any part be stored or recorded, by any means. The opinions expressed in The Publication are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by The Publisher. This publication and the name are owned solely by FLP YOMIKO Malaysia Sdn Bhd, 100.02.043, 129 Offices, Block J, Jaya One., No.72A, Jalan Universiti, 46200 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Malaysia, e-mail: yasui@flp-yomiko.com WAttention is published quarterly and distributed throughout Malaysia. Trademarks and copy rights for all other products, logos and depictions contained herein are the properties of their respective trademark and copyright owners. DEANN STUDIO Co. No. 001864544-P | GST No: 001534681088 NO.46, JALAN SS 2/55, 47300 PETALING JAYA, SELANGOR DARUL EHSAN, MALAYSIA. TEL. +603 7497 8778
WAttention Malaysia |
5
Nakano Koenji
Chuo Line
Shinjuku
Tokyo
Shibuya
Nakano and Koenji 中野
- Become a local Tokyoite -
高円寺
中野
Central Tokyo is an amazing world on its own, but have you ever asked yourself what else is there? If you hop on the JR Chuo line you can be in West Tokyo in a matter of minutes and experience a different Tokyo – exciting, yet laid back. Among the locals, Nakano and Koenji are two of the most popular neighborhoods in Tokyo, and the same could even have been said of people of the centuries ago Edo era. Nakano and Koenji were the favorite cities of the shogun Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, (1646-1709) and his father, Tokugawa Iemitsu (16041651), loved spending time in Koenji. We walked around both Nakano and Koenji during the day before enjoying the nightlife as a Tokyo local. We invite you to follow our journey via these pages and after that, why don’t you go and see West Tokyo for yourself?
Nakano
NAKANO NORTH
Nakano Broadway 中野 ブロードウェイ
The new Akihabara has been discovered! The first thing you will see when you leave the North exit of Nakano Station is the Nakano Sun Mall shopping area, or shotengai in Japanese, and at the end of the main shopping street you will find the Nakano Broadway shopping mall. This is one of the beloved Japanese pop-culture paradises, both for domestic and foreign fans. Don’t be fooled by the first floor which focuses on everyday life conveniences (clothes, food, cosmetics and so on) the real geek fun starts from the second floor up. Nakano Broadway has more than ten Mandarake shops, each of them dedicated to something different. There’s a special Gundam shop among the many other figurine shops, a full size alien doll that greets you from one of the other shop windows and One Piece themed shoes for sale in Converse! What more could you want? I'm glad you asked, because Nakano Broadway has its own free Wi-Fi. You could spend your whole day inside here without needing anything else. Hours: 11am – 8pm (*most hobby related stores open from 12pm) Address: 5-52 Nakano, Nakano-ku
6
| WAttention Malaysia
West Tokyo: Nakano and Koenji
The park of Philosophy Tetsugakudo-koen is not your common park; it was constructed by a philosopher and aims to engage your mind and deepen your understanding. You enter through the “Gate of Common Sense” and exit through the “Gate of the Irrational”, symbolizing a return to the arbitrariness of daily life. Between these two gates are a lot of similarly uniquely named points. For example, a fork in the path is no ordinary thing, but rather the “Junction of Doubt”, so take a brochure from the park’s office to help you navigate. The life of park’s creator, Inoue Enryo, is an intriguing story, in itself; he was a doctor of Philosophy, founder of Toyo University and a researcher of yokai (supernatural spirits, monsters, demons etc) and other mysteries. He dedicated most of his life to understanding the supernatural and he spent most of his earnings to construct this park. To get there you need to take a bus (41 or 11, or inquire at the station) from Nakano station, but it’s just a ten minute ride and as you might expect, the road to knowledge is never short. Hours: The park hours vary depending on the season. Please check with the Management Office for the exact hours before visiting.
Tetsu gakud koen o哲学堂
Address: 1-34-28 Matsugaoka, Nakano-ku
公園
1
Gate of Common Sense
2
Skull Hemitage
3
Four Sages Hall
4
Pagoda of the Six Wise Ones
5
Junction of Doubt
6
Garden of Materialism
7
Tanuki Lamp
8
Fork of Dualism
9
Garden of Idealism
10
Demon Lamp
11
Road of Cognition
12
Citadel of the Absolute
13
Gate of the Irrational
Provided by Nakano City Urban Policy Promotion Office,Metropolitan Tourism/Community Activation WAttention Malaysia |
7
NAKANO SOUTH Nabeya-Yokocho street
鍋屋横丁
Visits to Nakano shoutengai (a Japanese word for shopping street full of shops and restaurants, usually located in the city centre) and Broadway are still considered a special treat, so for an even more local taste go to Shin Nakano area, specifically Nabe-Yokocho street. This is a quieter area that also has restaurants and shops, but not packed together as closely as elsewhere. If you want to know what ordinary people eat on ordinary days, you should keep away from the sushi, and try soba noodles for lunch.
Abumata Miso shop
Jingu Dofu tofu shop
あぶまた味
If you are a foodie and want to taste only the best of the best, we sampled two shops in the Nabeya-Yokocho area which you can buy Japanese ingredients for cooking. Abumata Miso shop offers a variety of spices, soy sauces, amazake (sweet sake powder) and – as their name suggests – many kinds of miso, including Edo miso, a sweetish miso paste produced only in Tokyo. They have sales twice a month but the dates vary each month so check their website "http://www.abumata.com/"www.abumata.com Hours: 9am – 6pm, (closed on most weekends, unless there is a sale) Address: 3-32-19 Honcho, Nakano-ku
Jingu Dofu tofu shop
神宮豆腐店
For you tofu lovers, we know all tofu is great, but how about some award-winning tofu from Jingu Dofu? Their tofu has taken the Nakano grand-prix twice and their shop has been open for more than sixty years, so they really know their craft well. Everything is handmade and locals love the shop so much that Jingu Dofu leaves products for Abumata Miso shop
regular customers outside their shop early in the morning, before they open. Hours: 10am - 6pm
Address: 3-32-52 Honcho, Nakano-ku
The Tokugawa shogun Family and Nakano, Koenji
Soba Restaurant “Matsuya”
松屋
At lunchtime we went for soba, the more humble
If you happen upon all the dog sculptures near Nakano station, you might, wonder what they're doing there, but we know the story. It is a memorial reminding people of the fifth shogun of the Edo period, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, who was also known as the “dog shogun”. He was born in the Year of the Dog and is said to have loved animals, especially dogs and is famous for making laws to protect them by completely banning their killing. These statues are now here in Nakano to mark the existence of five big public dog kennels built "Inuyashiki"（犬
cousin of ramen noodles. Matsuya had a very local vibe, with a wooden interior, kind staff and seemingly regular customers. The menu is written on the wall in Japanese only, but don’t worry, we can offer you the recommendation of the owner – tempura soba and kake soba. While you’re there, treat yourself to some Japanese sake and Abumata miso to pair it with.
屋敷）in Edo to house all the abandoned dogs. Reportedly, the kennels occupied
Hours: 11:30am – 2:30pm; 5:30pm – 9pm.
93 hectares in total and housed 100,000 dogs.
Closed: Sundays Address: 4-38-26, Honcho, Nakano-ku
8
| WAttention Malaysia
NAKANO SHOPPING STREET Nakano station is the next stop after Shinjuku station on the JR Chuo line, making it a very convenient location. It is a popular with both Japanese residents and foreigners who pride themselves in knowing Tokyo better than others. A lot of them call it ‘pure Tokyo’, ‘real Tokyo’, ‘everyday Tokyo’ etc.. Nakano is the kind of neighborhood where you can find anything and everything in one place which is a huge part of its appeal. Forget the chain stores and dive into this area and don’t hesitate to explore the side alleys, where you can discover a treasure trove of unique cafes and restaurants. do and very popular. Shop after shop, it has everything you might want – clothes, jewellery, restaurants, cafes, sweet shops, gaming arcades and so on. The side alleys are even more charming, being less crowded and boasting some unique pubs and restaurants.
Yamazaki Memorial Nakano History and Folklore Museum
Japanese sweets in the heart of Nakano
Renge Temple Nogata Standpipe
Hyaku Kannon Meiji Temple
Araiyakushi Baishouin Temple
do ku ga
Nakano local café
tsu
Lin e
Te
Se ib uSh in ju ku
-d
or
i
Na
Numabukuro sta.
kan
o-d
ori
Tetsugakudokoen
Nakano 中野
The Nakano Sun Mall is the main shopping arcade in Nakano, full of fun things to
Shin-Nakano sta.
NAKANO NORTH
Waseda-dori
梅家
Umeya is a shop for traditional Japanese desserts located on the main shopping street of Nakano Sun Mall and it has been there for more than 60 years! They sell
Nakano Broadway Nakano Shikinomori Park
Umeya
products to take home from the store front, but there are also comfortable tables in the back where you can sit
Sun Mall Shopping Arcade
down and get adventurous with your ordering. The walls
Umeya
The remains of the Nakano dogs mansion Nakano Sta.
Chuo Line
to Koenji
e lin ai z To
to Shinjuku
are full of autographs from celebrities who have visited the shop, most of them Nakano locals. For example, the owner told us how Japanese comedian Choshu Koriki has been coming there as a child with his mom. , although she also points out that this is a café for ordinary people to enjoy traditional sweets at affordable prices. Umeya has a warm local atmosphere which is welcoming to
Okubo-dor
i
NAKANO SOUTH Jingu Dofu Tofu Shop Shin-Nakano sta.
Na be ya -Y ok oc ho S
tr.
N
Matsuya
Nakano MAP
foreigners, and the owner says plenty of them often stop by when visiting Nakano Broadway. Umeya has an English menu, so you can order without the dread of the unknown. The shop is famous for their inarizushi, and the owner says their Shiratama Cream Anmitsu dessert (a mix of fruit, sweet red bean paste, syrup, cold agar
Marunouchi Line
Abutama Miso Shop
jelly cubes and ice cream) is always popular. She also recommends Oshiruko (sweet red bean paste and chewy rice balls) as a warm winter dessert. Hours: 9:30am – 8pm Address: 5-58-6 Nakano, Nakano-ku
WAttention Malaysia |
West Tokyo: Nakano and Koenji
9
Every stylish person in Tokyo has shopped in and around Koenji at some point. It is a famous neighborhood that has a lot of second-hand clothes stores full of unique pieces. It is conveniently located on the JR Chuo line just ten minutes from Shinjuku. It's also known among the locals for its summer street festival Awa Odori, when large crowds gather to celebrate it. This lively neighborhood has around fourteen shopping streets (shoutengai in Japanese) all of which vary in size and atmosphere. For a feel of the famous Koenji second hand shopping hit PAL Arcade and Look Street. Be sure to check out all of them on both sides of the train tracks, as they all have something to offer. When night falls, Koenji takes off the cute vintage outfit and slips into its party outfit. This town is famous for its nightlife, from old school Japanese style pubs to underground rock gigs.
Koenji 高円寺
This cool neighborhood is often featured as a location in different pop culture works, from movies to manga and books. Most famously it appears in “1Q84” by Murakami Haruki. Fans of the book can easily recognize the locations and be transported to the book world for a moment.
Day in Koenji A day in Koenji is usually spent shopping and visiting as many cute cafes as possible. Here, it’s not just the clothes that are vintage, but the cafes as well. You can also shop for jewelry, gifts, books, CDs and so on, and find some bargains when it comes to yukata or kimono. If you like temples, Koenji has several of them, and the neighborhood itself is named after one of those temples. This time, we decided to check out an antique shop and two romantically unique cafes.
古道具 権ノ助
Furudogu Gonnosuke – Antique Shop This antique shop will take you back to times you don’t even remember. They sell everything, from old furniture, to collections of seashells and rock collections. Of course they also have jewelry, toys, cutlery and plates, clocks and other nostalgic items. The owner says foreigners prefer the uniquely Japanese items like small wooden dolls (called onsen kokeshi) that people used to buy from trips to the hot springs. He also told us that the majority of customers are young people, looking for something unique and unknown in
ネルケン
This beautiful café is an ode to classical music and fine art as well as something of a secret, so we had a hard time deciding to share it with everyone. The owner is an elegant lady who has been running the café for more than sixty years, playing only classical music and showcasing carefully selected paintings. A fan of German classical music, she gave the whole café a European vibe and a German
these old objects.
name. Even the house is built in a way that
Hours: 12am – 8pm
would provide the best acoustics for the
Address: 2-9-8 Koenjikita, Suginami-ku
ESARU
NELKEN
エセルの中庭
music. Hours: 11am – 10pm Address: 3-56-7 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku
This quaint hideaway is on the third floor, but makes you believe you’ve stepped into a garden at night. It is full of plants and even has an aquarium, and everything inside it is cute and romantic. They run a similar café on the second floor that is a library, so no speaking is allowed! Esaru has a lot of art and books as well, and sometimes they play audio books instead of music, making you feel like you’ve entered a fairytale.
Hours: 2pm – 8pm closed : Sundays. Address: 3-57-6 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku
All C's Café Located just a three-minute walk from Koenji Station's North exit, this cafe features an interior decoration resembling a gingerbread house, with comfy sofas and plush toys. Indulge your sweet tooth with "KAWAII" cookies, cakes and other tasty pastries and dishes. Hours: 12am-11pm Address: Miyake Bldg. 2nd Floor, 3-25-24 Koenjikita, Suginami-ku 10
| WAttention Malaysia
The cafe offers a variety of cute, intricately decorated desserts in a fairy-tale atmosphere.
Night in Koenji Night-time in Koenji gets you in a good mood the moment you step out of the station. The pubs have their colorful lanterns on, people are drinking outside and chatting at on improvised tables, the roadside yakitori stands send smoke dancing happily out of their juicy meat skewers and you just want to go...everywhere. Dizzy from all the possible partying choices, we decided
MATSURI DAIKO
to go for the more traditional Japanese drinking establishments, also known as nomiya or izakaya in
祭り太鼓
Next, we went to a spacious izakaya also located under the train tracks near Koenji
Japanese. They are beloved for their good drinks and
station which was really inviting with a nostalgic vibe, decorated as if it traveled
food and especially affordable prices.
here from the past. The best thing about this place is that they have so many dishes to order from. The staff recommend the stamina yakko, a concoction of
四文屋
SHIMONYA
SHIMONYA
tofu and various additions like okra, kimuchi, natto, eggs etc. If these ingredients are not to your taste, they also recommend one of their more interesting dishes:
This pub is just a hundred meters from Koenji station
mochi pizza. Another tip from the staff is to come and get a seat early on weekends
and a perfect example of convenience, being easy to get
because it gets crowded.
to with no table cover charge, an English menu available,
Hours: 5pm – 5am Address: 3-68-1 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku
unbelievably cheap prices, and above all, cool and friendly staff. It’s a small pub, which only adds to its charm and opens the possibility of getting to meet some new people, since they will be sitting close and the atmosphere is so relaxed. Hours: 3pm – 12pm (11pm last order) Address: 3-69 Koenjiminami, Suginami-ku
The Tokugawa shogun Family and Koenji Speakers of Japanese would instantly recognize that the name Koenji is a
mabashi park
Gonnosuke
even today. This temple was where the third shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu would spend time and stay the night whenever he came to the area to practice falconry Tokyo area wasn’t as urban as is today,
Koenji Sta.
but quiet and full of scenic nature.
MATSURI DAIKO Pal Shopping Pal Shopping Arcade Str.
ESARU
is called Shukuhozan Koenji Temple （ 宿 鳳 山 高 円 寺 ）and it can be visited
and hunting. At that time the West
SHIMONYA
NELKEN
Kannana-dori
All C’s cafe
N
temples in Koenji, but the one which the neighbourhood takes its name from
Koushindoori Koushin-dori Shopping Str.
Chuo Line
the name of a temple. There are many
Waseda-dori
Moreover, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi’s dog kennel from the adjacent neighborhood of Nakano was big enough to reach
Koenji Temple
as far as Koenji. Both of these West Tokyo areas have a strong historical connection to the Tokugawa family.
Koenji MAP
WAttention Malaysia |
West Tokyo: Nakano and Koenji
11
Editor's Picks
Located in the northern part of Nagano Prefecture, Nagano City prospered as a monzenmachi ("temple town" in Japanese) around Zenkoji, a temple with great history. Visitors are offered the chance to step into its past glory by strolling the nostalgic streets. The city is easily accessible and is a transportation hub for routes in and out of Nagano Prefecture. For first time travelers to Nagano, Nagano City is a great starting point to learn and explore the endless beauty of Nagano.
1 Shichimi-flavoured Macarons @ Nemoto Yawataya Isogoro
Address: 491 Motoyoshi-cho, Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture URL: https://www.zenkoji.jp/ (Japanese)
Founded in the 7th century, Zenkoji boasts a history of over a thousand years. Since many Japanese pilgrims visit at least once in their lifetime, it attracts about 6 million people annually. During the Warring States period, the temple’s main Buddha statue was moved to different locations—Kofu, Gifu, Aichi and Kyoto—before making its way back to Zenkoji four decades later. The neighbourhood became lively again in the Edo period, a time characterised by peace and prosperity. The temple’s main Buddha is prohibited from being shown to anyone. Thus, a replica is displayed every seven years (more precisely, six years) during the Gokaicho, an event where worshippers can pay respect to a duplicate of the original. There is, however, a tour that takes visitors to a dark corridor under the Main Hall, where the Buddha is enshrined. With some luck, you might even find the “key to nirvana” in the corridor!
3
Hours: 9:00-18:30 Address: 83 Daimon-cho, Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture
On the road leading to Zenkoji, you will come across this 270-year-old shop specialising in premium shichimi, a mixed Japanese spice containing seven ingredients. The shop has a vintage décor and sells not only their classic blend of chili spice but shichimiflavoured macarons. This soft, spicy confectionery is definitely taking sweets to the next level!
DIY Japanese Fragrant Sachet @ Incense Shop Kotaki The fragrant incense sold here is composed by the one and only perfumer in Nagano Prefecture. Visitors can sign up for a fragrant sachet making workshop at this shop, which is converted from an old Japanese house. Let your imagination roam free or ask for help from the expert to create your own personal fragrance—it’s as easy as ABC! Hours: 10:00-18:00 Closed on Wednesdays Address: 90 Yoko-cho, Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture
2 Togakushi, a small town tucked away in the mountains, is famous for its 800-year-old ninja history. Besides dressing up like a real ninja, you should also try some of the famous local soba noodles and visit Togakushi Shrine, where a long cedar-lined rock path exudes a mysterious, solemn atmosphere. Access: One hour by bus from Nagano Station URL: http://togakushi-21.jp/ (Japanese)
Enjoy spectacular v i ew s o f c h er r y blossoms in full bloom in spring, challenge yourself to climb 3,000-metrehigh mountains in the Northern Alps in summer, admire the impressive autumn foliage that shrouds the mountains in fall and join other skiers from all over the world for some exciting fun on the slopes in winter. The only way to experience all the things Hakuba has to offer is to visit in all four seasons! Access: Take a bus from Nagano Station URL: http://vill.hakuba.nagano.jp/index2.html (Japanese)
Winter in Nagano is usually covered in heavy snow. It is filled with skiers and snowboarders who come for the pure excitement on the hills as well as visitors aiming to see Japanese macaques taking a dip in the natural hot spring. Located in Yokoyu Valley, Jigokudani Yaenkoen is the place to behold this rare spectacle. Hours: 8:30-17:00 (in summer from Apr. to Oct.) 9:00-16:00 ( in winter from Nov. to Mar.) Address: 6845 Oasa Hirao, Yamauchi-machi, Shimotakaigun, Nagano Prefecture Access: Take a bus from Nagano Station, get off at Snow Monkey Park or Kanbayashi Onsen Bus Station and walk for 35 minutes URL: http://jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/WAttention (Japanese) Tokyo 11
Vol.4
Wasabi:
W
Straight to the Source
asabi – widely known as a nose-burning green condiment – is more than sushi’s sidekick. The first thing you should know is that it’s notoriously difficult to grow, making it extremely expensive. In fact, there’s a high chance that the green paste on the side of your plate contains hardly any wasabi but rather a cunning mix of horseradish, especially if you’re eating it outside of Japan. Indigenous to Japan, the elusive wasabi plant first made an appearance in historical records in the Asuka Period (527-710) when it was employed as medicinal herb. It was later eaten with raw fish as its antibacterial properties helped to remove the smell. Now, it’s a staple condiment with sushi and sashimi, as well as soba, and it’s even making appearances in Western food, replacing mustard as an accompaniment for beef.
Found naturally along shaded streams in Japan, its cultivation is believed to have begun 400 years ago in Shizuoka Prefecture, and has since expanded across Japan. To find out more about this tantalizingly spicy plant, I set off for Nagano Prefecture in central Japan, which produces the largest amount of wasabi in the country. My destination was in the rural area of Azumino. With its ample waterways framed by picture-perfect mountains, this is where wasabi thrives.
I
n this region lies Daio Wasabi Farm, which stretches for 15 hectares. About 60,000 wasabi plants line waterways and ridges, laid out in a geometric, arrow-like pattern. Squatting among them is Shigetoshi Hama, the impressively-titled Wasabi Master and PR Manager at the farm. At 72 years old, his passion for the place shines through as he explains the secrets of Azumino and the green treasure it holds. Wasabi needs a lot of running water but there’s plenty in supply – the area is fed by abundant reserves of spring water, which originate as melt water from the Northern Alps. An incredible 120,000 tons well up every day – according to Hama, that’s enough to provide water for a day in a town of 250,000 people!
T
hese prized plants can only be harvested after one and a half or two years. It’s easy to understand why real wasabi will cost you a lot, especially when considering the complex growing requirements. Wasabi can fetch more than 5,000 yen per kilogram at wholesale in Tokyo. While almost every part of the plant can be eaten except its roots, the rhizome is the main ingredient in the spicy paste we know. Wasabi’s signature tingling sensation comes from a
reaction induced through the act of grating. Traditionally, a sharkskin grater is used to break down the stem without producing excess heat, ensuring the creaminess of the paste. Fresh wasabi has a much cleaner taste – it begins with a slight bitterness, mellowing to sweet, and rushing up your nose if you put too much in your mouth at once! Aside from sampling it with regular sushi or soba, try it in wasabi salad dressing, soft cream and as pickles next time!
Check out the full article on the Japanese Food website. 16
| WAttention Malaysia
This water, during its journey through the soil, picks up four key nutrients: potassium, nitrogen, lime and phosphorous, all essential for wasabi grown hydroponically (without soil). As Hama beautifully explains, “The fallen leaves of the forest are the father of wasabi, the spring water is its mother.” Wasabi has earned its reputation as being difficult to grow for a reason. The water must be very clean and clear. What’s more, while it can survive temperatures in the negative in winter and nudging 30°C in the summer, it is exceptionally sensitive to water temperature. The optimum is between 10 and 15°C. The water at Azumino wells up at a cool 13 - 14°C but to avoid overheating, the plants are shaded by black cheesecloth nets between May and October, which catch 80% of the sunlight.
www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/food
Text/Photos: Phoebe Amoroso