Go Travel NZ Autumn 2015

Welcome to Middle Earth Autumn Edition 2015

NZ 9.90 EUR 7.50 USA 12.50 AUS 9.90 INR 450 www.gotravelnewzealand.com

9 772357 218001 >

Jet Boating Slice of Heaven Dive Poor Knights Islands www.gotravelnewzealand.com

1

Taking you to 2

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

extraordinary places Te Anau

+64 3 249 7167

www.southernlakeshelicopters.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

3

4

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

5

Publisher’s Corner

Publisher James Lynch Sub Editor Patti Brown Content Co-ordinator Sarah Bell sarahb@waterfordpress.co.nz General Manager Rex Lynch Senior Designer Daniel Grey Graphic Designer Michael Parker Contributing Writers Patti Brown, Chris McPhee, Alasdair Thomson, Scott Homer Website Manager Erica Lynch digitalcontent@waterfordpress.co.nz Administration Helen Bourne, Jill Holland Subscriptions Jill Holland North Island Sales Manager Alasdair Thomson alasdair@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5530 South Island Sales Manager Chris McPhee chris.mcphee@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 398 35507 Operations Manager Scott Homer scott@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5519 NZ, Australian and International Distribution IPS Australia Jetstar In-Flight Digital Gordan and Gotch New Zealand Head Office Waterford Press 112 Wrights Road Addington Christchurch +64 (0) 3 983 5500 Queenstown Office 70 Glenda Drive, Queenstown PO Box 2581, Wakatipu Queenstown 9349

Published by

Kia Ora Welcome to our autumn edition as we anticipate the changing colours of our landscapes and the onset of cooler days. Autumn is a temperate and wonderful time of the year to visit new destinations around New Zealand or MiddleEarth as we affectionately have become known as since the Lord of the Rings Trilogy.

Take an in-depth look at the impact New Zealand’s involvement in the Rings Trilogy has had on tourism nationwide in our Middle-Earth feature. Travel region by region and learn of all the exciting and fun ventures ingenious Kiwis have created capturing the spirit of the Trilogy beautifully from spending the night in an authentic earth house, guided tours of the Hobbiton movie set, scenic flights, horse trekking and so much more.

The origins of today’s jet boat are explored highlighting the innovative and inventive minds of CWF (Bill) Hamilton and George Davison as they created and honed the waterjet design that is now synonymous with jet boating. You will be inspired to go on a wild ride of your own as you read the exciting reportage from several keen folk who put their hands up to bring us their jet boat experiences.

Slice of Heaven turns the spotlight on the picks of North and South Islands’ luxury lodges and the extraordinary experiences they offer to those seeking something special.

You will find yourself seduced by the singular charms of Treetops Lodge & Estate in Rotorua and the secluded Raetihi Lodge in the Marlborough Sounds.

Join our writers as they travel from Fiordland through to Northland to bring you their personal experiences of the highlights unique to each region. Travelling to these regions you will find the writers’ recommendations are an excellent starting point when planning your itinerary.

Plenty to see and do!

Noho ora mai Wishing you all the best James Lynch

ISSN 2357-2183 (Print) ISSN 2357-2191 (On Line)

Publisher Cover photo: Ian Brodie, www.ianbrodie.net

6

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

CONTENTS MIDDLE EARTH 8 A Tourism Phenomenon: The fairytale that became reality

JET BOATS 22 Innovative Minds: Tracing the origins of jet boating in New Zealand

SLICE OF HEAVEN 30 Luxury Lodges: The very best in New Zealand accommodation

REGIONS NORTHLAND

36

BAY OF ISLANDS

40

AUCKLAND

44

COROMANDEL

48

WAIKATO

52

BAY OF PLENTY

56

TAUPO

60

ROTORUA

66

EASTLAND

70

WHANGANUI

76

NELSON

80

MARLBOROUGH

84

KAIKOURA

88

WESTCOAST

92

MACKENZIE

98

WANAKA

102

ARROWTOWN

106

QUEENSTOWN

112

FIORDLAND

118

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

7

Welcome to Middle-earth

8

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

9

Deep in the heart of Middle-earth, there’s another extraordinary story unfolding as a literary and screen fantasy becomes reality, inspiring a tourism phenomenon that over the past decade has launched New Zealand into a new era of tourism.

I

t began with a film script and some significant players – Kiwi filmmaker Peter Jackson, his team of location scouts and production crew, and a sweep of epic landscapes that, in the director’s hands, became the real Middle-earth of J.R.R. Tolkien’s beloved fantasy classics.

Just 13 years ago – back in 2001 as the first of Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings Trilogy screened to audiences around the world – it’s safe to say that no one imagined how the power of the screen could turn the rolling green hills of a Waikato farm into one of New Zealand’s most-visited tourism activities and an international bucket-list travel destination.

But that’s exactly what has happened at Hobbiton Movie Set Tours, near Matamata, and it’s not just there – towns and country districts all over New Zealand are reaping tourism dollars from landscapes and settings renowned from the epic film trilogies based on the Tolkien tales.

For the year ending March 2014, according to Regional Tourism Estimates released by New Zealand’s

Ministry of Business, Innovation & Employment (MBIE), there was significant growth in international visitor spend in New Zealand’s key tourist destinations. The estimates showed that international visitors spent an estimated $7.2 billion in New Zealand’s regions (excluding that spent on education and air travel) – up $600 million from the previous year.

The estimates also showed international spending in the MatamataPiako district, the home of Hobbiton, has risen more than three-fold over the previous five years, from $11 million (2009) to $37 million in 2014. This strong growth illustrated the importance of Hobbit-related attractions for tourism in that area, MBIE Sector Performance Manager Peter Ellis said. [1] [1. Ministry of Business, Innovation & Employment (MBIE) 28 November

2014] It helps the spread that, between them, the six films of The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit Trilogies depict up to 150 locations in eight regions.

The crew for The Hobbit Trilogy alone spent 10 weeks on the road filming in 40 different locations throughout the North and South Islands of New Zealand, in just about every type of imaginable landscape – volcanic, limestone, farmland, rivers, alpine lakes and grasslands, forests and remote mountain peaks and passes all feature as the film journey unfolds.

Enthralled by the majesty and mystique of these landscapes, from the first film onwards, Tolkien fans began travelling the byways of New Zealand looking to discover the real Middle-earth for themselves – making their way to remote locations, climbing over fences

Underhill

Step into a fairytale...

with a stay at the enchanting Underhill Earth House.

10

Unique, authentic earth house accommodation in the heart of the Waikato.

Just 10 2015 minutes from Hamilton and 45 minutes from the Waitomo caves or Hobbiton.

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn Find out more and book online at www.canopycamping.co.nz/underhill

or knocking on the doors of surprised landowners.

Since then a lucrative tourism industry has built up around many of the film locations offering everything from guided tours led by passionate ‘Rings’ fans and helicopter flights piloted by the locals who flew the stars to the original locations, to trekking and kayaking expeditions following in the footsteps of hobbits and dwarves. And then there’s the associated hospitality industry.

Wellington Airport welcomes visitors to ‘The Middle of Middle-earth’ and literally just down the road in Jackson’s Miramar film hub, multitudes of tourists make the pilgrimage into the Weta Cave to admire and buy the works of the artists who created the props and special effects for the films, queue for selfies with the giant trolls standing guard outside or take insider-guided tours of Weta Workshop. In downtown Wellington you can even follow a Middle-earth costume trail.

Hobbiton – on the trail Midway between Auckland and Rotorua, year-round, the car park at Hobbiton is a bustle of coaches, motorhomes and cars as tourists pull into the Shire’s Rest visitor centre to book tickets and climb on board the shuttle buses to begin the two-hour guided tour of the movie set. Check the online booking engine during the peak summer season, and it’s not unusual to find most of the tours on any one day already booked out. The owners are expecting to pass the one-million-visitor mark in the coming few months.

Visitors represent every continent – from busloads of Japanese and Chinese on group tours, to independent travellers from just about everywhere else, near and far.

Some, like Cathy and Gary Baker from New Brunswick, Canada, who’ve just chalked up their fourth visit, will come again and again.

Hobbiton Movie Set extends over 12 acres, incorporating 44 hobbit holes on a gentle green hillside, surrounding the famous ‘Party Field’ and the lake where the Mill House and the Green Dragon Inn complete the 17th-century inspired English village – a tranquil vista of rambling paths and colourful doorways, surrounded by pretty gardens and orchards, washing swinging in the breeze, smoking chimneys and lantern lights in the evening. From the hills, the view spans east across endless pastures to the distant Kaimai mountain range.

For dedicated Tolkien fans – of which there now seems to be a never-ending supply – arrival at Hobbiton can be an emotional moment. In the Tolkien saga, Hobbiton was

ZST N U M SEE!

Middle-earth™ Hobbiton Movie Set, Matamata

Living-earth Te Puia and the Te Po Combo, Rotorua

Under-earth Waitomo Glowworm Caves & Ruakuri Cave Combo, Waitomo

BOOK NOW! FREEPHONE IN NZ: 0800 83 7842

Ph: +64 7 3489 047 info@experiencethetrilogy.com

www.experiencethetrilogy.com

Underhill Earth House

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

11

Join us for a behind-the-scenes glimpse into Weta Workshop Best known for their stunning creatures, characters, and costumes from The Lord of the Rings Trilogy, King Kong, The Hobbit Trilogy, District 9, Avatar, the Amazing Spiderman 2 and many more.

-

Hosted by members of the Weta Workshop crew Get up close with movie props, costumes and armour Learn the secrets behind the movie magic!

15 tours every day - tours take 45 minutes Tours start every 30 minutes from 9.30am - 5pm

home to the hobbits – a community of gentle little people with big hairy feet who enjoy a party. The village was the setting-off point for lead character Bilbo Baggins’ celebrated ‘unexpected journey’ along with some of the film’s most memorable scenes.

In November last year, emotions ran at fever pitch as an army of the most fervent Tolkien followers descended on Hobbiton as part of their own ‘unexpected journey’ – travelling through New Zealand as the winners of a global contest run by Warner Bros., Air New Zealand - the official airline of Middle-earth - and Tourism New Zealand which hosted the fans in New Zealand.

A staggering 140,000 people from 30 countries registered for the Fan Fellowship Contest, to find the most ardent fans of The Hobbit Trilogy. They were required to complete a series of hobbit-related challenges - sending a postcard to Sir Peter Jackson explaining why they belonged in the Fan Fellowship, answering a hobbit-themed quiz and producing a video message sharing their passion.

The 74 winners from 25 countries were accompanied by a friend or family member, many of whom were fellow ‘Hobbit’ fans, on their dream journey to New Zealand’s most popular film tourism destinations. The fiveday itinerary took them from arrival in Auckland to Rotorua, Queenstown and Wellington with highlights including visits to Hobbiton and Paradise, and

BOOK YOUR BEHIND THE-SCENES MOVIE EXPERIENCE TODAY!

www.wetaNZ.com/cave or at The Weta Cave Shop 1 Weka Street, Miramar, Wellington Hobbiton

12

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

meeting Sir Peter Jackson for a private screening of The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies.

On the second day as the group arrived at Hobbiton, the excitement was electric with many fans dressed to theme, emerging like the wizard from Gandalf’s Cutting into the pictureperfect film set with tears, shouts, screams and stunned silence. It may sound twee but the emotions were entirely genuine as this international company of hobbits, elves and dwarves followed in the footsteps of their bigscreen heroes to knock on the famous doors, feast in the Green Dragon and hear insider stories from actors and the farm owners.

Film tourism New Zealand has seen an unprecedented increase in the flow of fans and tourists to the country since filming wrapped on the The Hobbit Trilogy, with more tourists than ever before citing the popular films as an influencing factor when choosing New Zealand as a holiday destination.

‘Set-jetting’ – holidaying in countries and locations where films are shot – is not a new phenomenon. Jaws (1975) inspired a generation of movie fans to visit Martha’s Vineyard in Massachusetts in the seventies and Albuquerque, New Mexico, has seen floods of visitors since Breaking Bad hit TV screens around the world.

Around 40 million international tourists chose their destination in 2012

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

13

largely because they saw a film shot in the country, according to research

by Tourism Competitive Intelligence.

But rarely has any country seen such a significant boost to tourism thanks to a movie brand.

For the period October 2013 to September 2014, 14 per cent of international holiday visitors said that The Hobbit Trilogy movies were a factor in influencing their initial interest in New Zealand. Dubbed the ‘real Middle-earth’, New Zealand has seen

Hobbiton Summer

14

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

real growth in tourism thanks to Bilbo Baggins and friends.

Research completed earlier in 2014 by the New Zealand Institute of Economic Research found that the marketing of New Zealand as Middle-earth has had significant and quantifiable impact on growth in visitor arrivals from Western Markets. It shows that in 2013, in New Zealand’s core long-haul Western visitor markets, growth in arrivals outstripped the markets’ economic recovery and

growth in outbound tourism, and that New Zealand attracted more international visitors than economic factors alone could account for.

Tourism New Zealand Chief Executive Kevin Bowler says the remaining growth can, to a reasonable degree, be attributed to tourism marketing by the organisation and others in the industry such as Air New Zealand.

“We have seen significant growth driven by beautiful backdrops and

key aspects of New Zealand in the movies. While it is clear that improving economies and increased airline capacity are supporting tourism growth, the ‘Hobbit’ factor has raised the profile of New Zealand exponentially around the world. During summer we see huge numbers visiting Matamata and Hobbiton, running tours of around 40 tourists every 10 minutes.

“Thanks to the movie magic of Sir Peter Jackson and The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit Trilogies, New Zealand has been given an incredible opportunity. The films may be fantasy but the locations are real places outstanding and diverse landscapes all over New Zealand, and there are endless opportunities to experience them with some of the country’s best tourism activities,” he said.

Hobbiton Movie Set Tours has welcomed around 900,000 visitors since first opening, making it one of New Zealand’s most visited tourist attractions. The owners – three generations of the Alexander family – are still farming the land but their lives have changed dramatically since Peter Jackson flew over on an aerial location scout and spotted the perfect patch in these rolling hills.

The movie set, initially created for The Lord of the Rings Trilogy, was reconstructed in 2011 for The Hobbit Trilogy – this time in permanent materials so it could remain open as an attraction for the growing tide of tourists finding their way to the location. Russell Alexander, who operates Hobbiton Movie Set Tours in partnership with WingNut Films, is confident that it will be an enduring

Hobbiton Summer

TOUR OFFICE 1411 Mangaotaki Road, Piopio DRIVING DIRECTIONS • Travel on SH3 (State Highway 3) to Piopio then turn onto Kaka Street in Piopio Village. (if driving from the north, this is a right hand turn) • Turn left off Kaka Street onto Mangaotaki Road.

Continue to travel on Mangaotaki Road for 14 kms.

TOUR TIMES Twice daily at 10:00am & 1:00pm We are open every day except Christmas Day. Allow at least 1½ hours (90 minutes) for the tour.

CONTACT US Phone +64 7 877 8003 info@hairyfeetwaitomo.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

15

New Zealand’s premier Lord of the Rings tour company

HOBBITON PLUS! Calling all avid Lord of The Rings fans!

www.redcarpet-tours.com 16

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

tourist attraction.

“We’re seeing more visitors to Hobbiton than ever before. The Hobbit Trilogy will continue to be popular long into the future and we look forward to welcoming Hobbit fans from all over the world long into the future.”

Experience Middle-earth – where to go Filmed entirely in New Zealand, the locations for The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies cover both the North and South Islands – from the volcanic Central Plateau and Wellington’s inner city green belt, to the rivers of Marlborough, the Southern Alps and Queenstown high country – all of which can be easily experienced by visitors.

From wandering through the green

hills of Hobbiton to kayaking a river gorge or flying over dramatic waterfalls and cliff tops in Fiordland National Park on the South Island’s west coast, there’s a Middle-earth experience for everyone.

Waikato - at home with hobbits Just like Bilbo, many film fans opt to begin their journey with a classic Middle-earth immersion at Hobbiton Movie Set Tours, Matamata, that includes peering over a hobbit’s front gate, dancing under the party tree, swigging back a beer at The Green Dragon Inn or even staying for a feast fit for a hobbit after a night-tour under the stars.

An hour’s drive southwest of Hobbiton off SH3, Warrick and Suzie Denize operate Hairy Feet Waitomo. The 90-minute guided tour of the impressive

SELF DRIVE TOURS TO

limestone cliffs at Mangaotaki Rocks is the newest Middle-earth tourism offering, revealing locations and behindthe-scenes tales from a six-week location shoot. The cliffs and prehistoric forest on this family farm were the backdrop to the continuing journey of Bilbo and company. The Staddles Farm and Trollshaw Forest Rocky Hillside location appears in several scenes as The Company arrives at a destroyed farmhouse, the exit from the Troll Hoarde Cave, as Gandalf bestows Sting upon Bilbo, Radagast’s arrival and the Gundabad Wargs and Orcs attack.

The next best thing to a hobbit hole, and within easy reach of both Hobbiton and Piopio, may tempt romantics to enrich their Middle-earth journey by lodging in the lovely little earth-house at Underhill Valley. This charming glamping

accommodation, in a secluded rural spot overlooking a pond, farmland and underneath a magnificent night sky, is perfect for a romantic tryst.

Central Plateau – Bilbo’s favourite Martin Freeman (Bilbo) said the North Island’s Central Plateau was his favourite location. While the exact location used for The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey is on a private farm, tourists can experience these alpine landscapes with a variety of tourism products.

Mountain Air Ruapehu offers scenic flights over the three volcanoes and The Lord of the Rings locations. Adrift Outdoors guides walkers on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing with a choice of classic day trips or dawn and twilight experiences. Yeti Tours run overnight

MIDDLE EARTH

CHOOSE FROM OUR WIDE RANGE OF SELF-DRIVE TOURS to Hobbiton and Lord of The Rings sites throughout New Zealand.

Or, we can custom-make a tour just for you.

Visit our website for details…

Hobbiton

DON’T WANT TO DRIVE?

No problem. We also have a good selection of Budget Coach Tours to most Middle Earth destinations.

Edoras

www.tourandtravel.co.nz NEW ZEALAND Email: tourandtravel@ihug.co.nz 17 P: (64) 9 480-8144 www.gotravelnewzealand.com

URS TO HOBBITON

   

NEW ZEALAND TOURS TO HOBBITON

kayaking trips on the Whanganui River from Mt Tongariro (used for Mordor in The Lord of the Rings Trilogy) to the Tasman Sea. Or, follow in the footsteps of cast and crew to stay at the Powderhorn Chateau, Ohakune – a cosy ski lodge that does great Kiwi hospitality.

Wellington – Wellywood on show New Zealand’s creative capital, Wellington is variously known as ‘Wellywood’ and ‘Middle of Middleearth’ and around town there are plenty of visible connections to the film industry.

Not the least are the gigantic installations created by Weta Workshop for the airport - Gandalf swooping through the airport’s main passenger concourse on an eagle, a leering Gollum and a fire-breathing Smaug. In nearby Miramar, the Weta Cave is special effects heaven with a mini museum and gallery of collectibles. Or, take a behind-the-scenes guided tour in Weta

Workshop to meet artists and learn about the creative processes.

Wellington Rover Tours lays claim to the best seven locations north and south of Wellington including Mt Victoria overlooking inner Wellington and Upper Hutt where sites include the Hutt River (River Anduin), Harcourt Park (Gardens of Isengard, and where the Orcs felled trees), and Kaitoke Regional Park (Rivendell).

Nelson – Middle-earth from above Across Cook Strait, the Nelson Tasman region set the scene for several locations in The Hobbit Trilogy. The film-makers were drawn to the region because of its proximity to Wellington (a 20-minute flight) and diverse landscape of golden sandy bays, unspoilt primeval forests, rugged peaks and unique rock formations.

Cape Farewell Horse Treks offers sweeping views from a dramatic cliff top of spectacular Golden Bay, Farewell Spit and Kaihoka Station which featured in

Waitomo Caves & Hobbiton: 7.30am – 7pm, daily (except Sunday) Cruise in the Glowworm Grotto amongst stalactities and stalagmites.

Guided 2 hour Movie Set walk & drink at the Green Dragon Inn Follow The Ring to Wellington: 5 days/4 nights, departs Auckland.

Includes Waitomo Caves, Hobbiton, Rotorua, Waiotapu thermal areas, Lake Taupo, Tongariro National Park (Mordor), Wellington.

Weta Workshop & many film sites.

Magnificent New Zealand: For all fans of Lord Of The Rings, Hobbits & fabulous NZ scenery.

12 days/11 nights, departs Auckland every Tuesday.

Weta Workshop 11am – 7pm Daily (except Xmas Day, October - March) Monday, Wednesday, Friday, (April - September) Includes Movie Set visit & drink at the Green Dragon Inn Visit Hobbit Gatehouse & lunch at Shire's Rest, plus more!

PRIVATE TOURS · SPECIAL GROUPS HELICOPTER TOURS · CONFERENCES CORPORATE FUNCTIONS · WEDDINGS Email steve@newzealandtours.co.nz NZ Freecall: 0800 309196 AUS Freecall: 1 800 227 304 International call: +64 9 309 1831 More info www.newzealandtours.co.nz

 Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015 18

  

Classic Fighters LOTR and The Hobbit fans travelling to Marlborough to view the film location of the wonderful barrel scene should make a point of visiting Omaka on the outskirts of Blenheim. It is at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre that Sir Peter Jackson has made his other hobby open to the public.

S

ir Peter’s personal collection of aircraft and artifacts from the Great War are on display in the Knights of the Sky exhibition.

Contractors more familiar with working on film sets were employed to create the amazing dioramas, while award-winning Weta Workshop crafted mannequins that are so lifelike you are tempted to start up a

conversation with them.

Some of the aircraft are originals, rare survivors of that devastating conflict 100 years ago. Others are replicas, able to be deliberately damaged with ripped fabric and bullet holes to tell a story, such as the death of Germany’s famous Red Baron or ‘Grids Great Escape’ when a New Zealander cheated death by rebalancing his damaged aircraft with his own body weight, leaping clear before it crashed into the trenches below.

A number of the aircraft are still active fliers, particularly the four Fokker Triplanes, which join others in Sir Peter’s collection to fly at Classic Fighters Airshow, a biennial fundraising event held every second Easter on the neighbouring Omaka Aerodrome.

Perhaps even more stunning than the visual spectacle of the aircraft and settings is Sir Peter’s collection

of items belonging to famous aviators of the period. Did you know that Herman Goering was a WW1 Ace or that Manfred von Richthofen, the ‘Red Baron’ had his own victory cup minted for each enemy aircraft he shot down, until his jeweller ran out of silver?

JRR Tolkien was himself a soldier in WW1 and many people have speculated on how much his experience influenced his writing. So whether you are a fan of the famous writer, movie director or just want to be taken on a journey back in time, Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre comes highly recommended. GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

19

The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey.

This is where The Company continue their journey along the steep rocky ridges used for ‘Weatherhills Trees and Rocks’.

Jackson chose the amazing pinnacle rock formations at Mt Owen, in Kahurangi National Park, for Dimrill Dale in The Lord of the Rings Trilogy.

Visitors can fly into the area with Reid Helicopters, who helped scout locations and flew for both movie trilogies.

Marlborough – barrels of fun Pelorus River – a rocky waterway running through a gorge shrouded in native beech forest – was the final location chosen by Jackson, who later recalled stopping off there on holiday

Weta Cave

Discover the film location of Gondor, from Tolkein's Lord of the Rings. Have you ever wondered what goes into the making of a movie? How do you find locations, create mythological creatures, film complex stunts and what is it like to be on set?

The LOTR film crew were here for several weeks filming many scenes from the Return of the King and Twizel had the largest cast and crew on location with 1500 people involved. The film location is on private land and is not accessible to the public.

www.lordoftheringstour.com NZ Freephone: 0800 213 868 2015 Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 20 International Phone: +643 4350 073

when he was a child. This silver river valley, tucked into one corner of a forested conservation area that divides the eastern and western regions of the northern South Island, is the setting for ‘Forest River’ in The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug.

The four-day Pelorus River shoot produced the celebrated ‘dwarves in barrels’ scene. In a similar vein, visitors can experience this piece of Middleearth in an inflatable kayak with Pelorus Eco Adventures. The guided river tour stops at waterfalls, streams and the now famous barrel scene location.

Lake Pukaki – high country stations Two high country farms – Braemar

and Tasman Downs stations - on the shores of Lake Pukaki, in the Mount Cook Mackenzie district, featured in The Hobbit Trilogy as various locations.

Lake-town - one of the most extensive outdoor sets built for the movies - was created at Tasman Downs Station. Filming at this location was one of the largest operational periods in the shooting schedule with around 700 people on set.

Braemar Station was used to portray epic scenic shots, the ‘Warg Chase’ and the approach to Rivendell. The property also featured as the forest slopes of Misty Mountains where The Company escapes from inside the mountains.

Visitors can stay at Braemar Station

(as The Hobbit Trilogy crew did), and enjoy activities including working on the farm, fishing, bike riding, or a quiet picnic by the lake.

Queenstown – outstanding landscapes In Queenstown, the real Middle-earth is never far away with the opportunity to visit numerous outstanding landscapes that appeared in the films. Nomad Safaris run guided tours to many of these.

Arcadia Station – a working high country farm in Paradise Valley – was chosen as the setting for Beorn’s House in The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug. The region around Glenorchy featured in The Lord of the Rings as Isengard, Lothlorien and Amon Hen. In The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, Mt Earnslaw above Paradise was used for the Misty Mountain Paths.

Glenorchy’s thriving tourism industry offers outdoor activities based on visits to movie locations – from funyaks (inflatable boats) and jet boat adventures with Dart River Wilderness Jet to Dart Stables horse treks, scenic flights and heli landings on Mt Earnslaw with Heliworks or Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters.

Between Wanaka and Queenstown, two locations Klifden Station in Ida Valley and Hartfield at Middlemarch in Central Otago - also provided epic landscapes for The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey as the Orcs and Wargs hunt The Company.

Fiordland - bird’s eye view Fiordland National Park appeared in both The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies for epic scenic shots. ‘Wild Country’ was the description given for the scenes where the eagles soar through the sky, before they deliver The Company to Carrock Summit.

Visitors can take a helicopter flight into the wilderness region with Real Journeys, which offers an optional landing in Milford or Doubtful Sounds, and a cruise through the fiords for an intimate experience of spectacular waterfalls and wildlife.

Wanaka - a snowy end The resort town of Wanaka is a lovely place year-round to complete a journey through Middle-earth – great for skiing and snowboarding in winter, climbing, walking, and biking in summer or year-round relaxation and rejuvenation. The best way to catch a glimpse of landscapes that inspired the Misty Mountain pathways is with Wanaka River Journeys on a wilderness jet-boat tour into the Matukituki Valley.

Treble Cone Ski Area, used for the Misty Mountain pathways in The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, is a world-class ski field renowned for its off-piste terrain and unrivalled views across Lake Wanaka and the Central Otago region. Alpine Peaks in the Wanaka region was also described as ‘Wild Country’ for the first film and provided the backdrop for eagles soaring. GTNZ Shona Cobham works for Tourism New Zealand / is Content Editor at Tourism New Zealand.

Visit www.newzealand.com for comprehensive information and bookings for tourism activities and accommodation. www.gotravelnewzealand.com

21

t e J s t a Bo

s: d n i M e v i t a v o n In t e J f o s n i g i r O e Tracing th d n a l a e Z w e N g n Boati

22

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

23

Some sixty-five years ago a little boy day-dreamed of a better way to transport his kayak upstream. Billy Hamilton loved the excitement of riding the rapids of a flooded Opihi River near his parents’ farm, but it was a chore carrying the kayak back to the top for another run. Billy had an inventive way of thinking, and he soon rigged up a trailer so his boat could be towed by his dog, but it still required a lot of walking...

If only there was some way to propel the boat upstream as well as down...

T

ake a leap forward into 1951 and we find that “Billy” (Charles William Feldon Hamilton) is the successful owner of CWF Hamilton & Co, a growing engineering factory based in Christchurch. At the time, Bill was residing at Irishman Creek Station in

24

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

the South Canterbury High Country.

This remote farm had already been fertile ground for Bill’s innovative engineering designs from earthmoving scoops to modified cars that set racing records in NZ and England. Munitions were even made in the workshop to aid the war effort in the 1940s.

In the 50’s Billy found himself with a bit more time on this hands and was able to explore the nearby lakes including Wanaka, Tekapo and Ohau.

It was on one such outing that he remarked to his wife that it would be fun to have a boat they could use to explore upstream as well as down.

And so the first inception of the modern jet boat began to come together as Bill put his innovative and inventive mind to the task. Over a couple of years of trial and error on paper, he is shown an article in Popular Mechanics of an American designed and built water-jet unit. Bill and his team quickly fabricate a duplicate - it is not highly successful but it is an improvement on his previous attempts, and Bill finally feels that he is on the right track.

Tests are carried out, and many modifications made and the top speed increases from 11 kmph to 18 and she can turn on a dime while travelling through waterways only centimetres deep. It is Easter 1954.

Bill hires George Davison, a young engineering graduate and sets him the task of refining the jet unit design to make it more reliable. George turns the pump on its edge, direct driving it from the engine and using an intake duct to feed water into the impeller. Thus, the “Rainbow” jet unit is born. However, she is still far from perfect and in 1956 George develops a multi-stage axial flow pump which simply sucked the water through the bottom of the hull and once pressurised pushed it out through the transom at high speed via a small tailpipe. Steering was a simple gate system directing the flow of water from left or right by turning the steering wheel. This development meant the jet could pump a greater volume of water and so is capable of pushing larger

vessels with more powerful engines and at greater speeds In the fifty-five years since Hamilton and Davison developed the jet unit, the term jet boat has come to represent a much larger cross section of the marine industry. Today’s jet boats are still 15 ft, shingle-skimming river-runners, but they are equally 200 ft supply boats operating well beyond territorial waters. Both use water-jets whose design can be traced back to the original developments made

by Bill and his innovative team.

Those who don’t own a jet boat are still able to enjoy the thrill and scenic splendour of jet boating on some of New Zealand’s most wild & picturesque waterways thanks to professional operators. A trip to New Zealand is simply not complete without a jet boat experience – thrills and adventure on wonderful rivers, lakes and harbours with backdrops of beautiful native forest and spectacular landmarks.

So, to help you decide which jet boat experience is the best fit for you come with us as four intrepid adventurers go drifting, skimming and spinning on the rides of their lives with K-Jet Queenstown, Auckland Adventure Jet, Shotover Jet and AgroJet. K Jet - Queenstown I’ve always wondered what it would be like to star in a James Bond movie.

Well, on a recent visit to Queenstown I had my chance.

KJet promises “high-speed and

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

25

adrenalin” and didn’t disappoint. Based at the Main Town Pier, KJet was the first commercial Jet boat company in the world – they started in 1960- so they were doing their thing way before anyone else and it shows.

The entire experience, staff knowledge and service are top notch.

After being fitted with safety gear and full of information, we’re off for our ‘hour of sheer power’.

Skimming the top of the shallow water – Jet boats need only 5cm to operate- it feels like we’re flying and I feel like we’re in a Bond chase scene. I even look back to check who’s chasing the 750-horsepower yellow boat.

Our funny and informative driver expertly navigates the crystal clear waters at speeds over 85km an hour, though it feels more like 100km! It’s thrilling – a bit like being on a rollercoaster on water. Every 360-degree spin results in screams all round.

Back on land, the body’s buzzing and adrenaline giggles just won’t stop. KJet certainly lived up to expectations and I can sleep knowing I’ve had at least one Bond moment in my life.

Auckland Adventure Jet I don’t know about you but the idea of bungy jumping freaks me out, but I wanted to get that adventure

26

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

adrenalin fix when I visited New Zealand. I also had it on my bucket list to experience iconic NZ jet boating, so I was pretty stoked to come across Auckland Adventure Jet which ticked all the boxes!

We only had half a day in Auckland which was plenty of time for the total of 1hr spent with the awesome Adventure Jet team. We found them at the bright red and hard to miss kiosk next to the historic ferry terminal at pier 3a where they signed us in and gave us ponchos, sunnies and life jackets before taking some hilarious photos of us. Then the boat went out on Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour which the skipper also dubbed his playground! We could see Rangitoto and the Auckland Harbour Bridge, we even went under it and learnt a bit about the build of the bridge. The speed in excess of 50 knots and those adrenaline pumping spins and tricks got us all screaming with laughter throughout the trip.

I returned with a huge smile on my face and a water-inspired hair-do! www.aucklandadventurejet.co.nz Shotover Jet - Queenstown Last May I was on holiday in Queenstown for two days. It was during this trip that I discovered there truly is a vast difference between jet boat experiences. For all the time I have spent in Queenstown over the years, I had never been on the Shotover Jet. I was firmly of the opinion

that having been on one jet boat trip I had been on them all. I formed this opinion after being on several jet boat jaunts in other locations in which the boats were fast, slid sideways and spun around a bit.

Turns out I was wrong.

Five minutes into the trip, I realised just how different the Shotover Jet experience is! To borrow a phrase I recently saw used, when comparing the Shotover experience to others it is like comparing an “acrobatic Pitts aeroplane to a commercial airliner”.

Shotover is also the only company permitted to operate in the canyons.

I sat, firmly gripping the rail as we did first a 360 - and then again, ending up facing the way we had come! Hold on, that was a 540-degree spin in my maths class. Throughout

the rollercoaster ride and whirling skimming adventure, there were audible responses from all on board.

Our driver skillfully manoeuvred the boat through the canyon, effortlessly skimming close to the walls before flying away again and leaving us all gasping.

I was blown-away by the experience, and I was not alone; as we pulled into the jetty the little girl sitting beside me was already begging her mother to go again! www.shotoverjet.com Agrojet Experience - Rotorua I knew this was not going to be any ordinary scenic jet boat ride... I was about to have a wild ride in one of New Zealand’s fastest jet boats (and the world’s only jet-sprint experience). The

AGROJET

GO OFF! D N A GET ON

's of force in one of and experience 3G e ey an you of nk bli e ssional drivers take (62 mph) in th er jet-sprint. Profe ev 360 Launch to 100kph st ll fu fir a 's th rld wi wo e ats and th ds and finishing an isl nd ou t ar igh NZ's fastest jet bo ing he av e minimum sprint course, we for kids 3yrs + (se ct rfe Pe over a high octane s. les th ll leave you brea degree spin that wi anddad will love it! all adults, even Gr d an requirements) hp V8 engine POWERED BY 450 seconds to 100 km/h in 4.5 0 N TIO ACCELERA 1 kilometer course LAPS 3 hot laps of 0.9 metres HT IG MINIMUM HE GERS 2 MAXIMUM PASSEN

t

prin Jet S !

Z N ience Exper

z roventures.co.n ag s@ n io at rv se 949 888 | re res.co.nz EE PHONE 0800

FR

ntu

> www.agrove

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

27

boat is sleek, aerodynamic, and I can testify that it is capable of turning on a coin!

We are off - from launch to 100kph (62 mph) in the blink of an eye; it is like being in a Hollywood action movie, and we are outrunning the bad guys by a mile! There is no way they are

28

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

going to catch us as our professional driver skilfully slides the jet around obstacles and shoots through gaps.

I alternated between speechlessness and shouting as my adrenalin spiked. Our driver took us through a high-octane sprint course weaving around islands and finishing

with a 360-degree spin that left me breathless.

I was grinning from ear to ear as we smoothly made our way back; a moment to take in the scenery and just enjoy the feeling of all my senses being wide awake. When can I go again? www.agroventures.co.nz GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

29

Slice of Heaven The very best in

30

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

New Zealand accommodation

For this edition we have carefully selected just one exclusive accommodation option for each island that provides not only luxury, but a truly memorable experience from the moment you arrive.

In the North Island we visit the incredible Treetops Lodge & Estate in Rotorua, who offer five onsite signature experiences that have no equal anywhere else in the world!

Then nestled in a secluded bay of extraordinary natural beauty in the South Island’s Marlborough Sounds is the equally extraordinary Raetihi Lodge.

Let’s take a look...

Photo credit: Trevor Dennis www.gotravelnewzealand.com

31

The Iconic Treetops Lodge & Estate

Estate to Plate 4WD Safari:

A Signature Experience

Nestled in 2,500 acres of 800-year old native forest, Treetops Lodge & Estate is a uniquely New Zealand experience. This wildlife sanctuary is nestled within breathtaking terrain, offering outdoor activities centred around seven streams, four lakes, and over 43 miles of adventure trails.

Located 20 minutes from Maori heartland Rotorua, Treetops offer exclusive Signature Treetops Experiences including a Maori Food Trail, 4WD Nature Safari, Wild Food Cooking Classes and 5 Star Kids Program.

Treetops Lodge & Estate, the all-inclusive wilderness retreat located in the heart of New Zealand's wild food capital Rotorua, has launched a new Signature Treetops Experience for gourmands – the ‘Estate to Plate' 4WD Safari, featuring Estate reared and produced 100% pesticide free, organic produce... with 21st century twists. The Safari is a personal encounter with Treetops gamekeepers and specialist wild food chefs; the newest experience for lodge guests. The Safari Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015 32

commences with a tour of our kitchen gardens. View the 100% pesticide free and organic heritage varieties of indigenous and seasonal vegetables including native spinach (tetragonia), kumara, turmeric, wasabi, native cress, and an abundance of fruit trees. Guests are encouraged to try garden produce, (respectfully picking what they wish to taste).

Next, it is on to visit the Manuka honey aviaries producing wild native comb honey of exceptional flavour, followed by the estate tour taking in the wild deer; red, fallow, sika, wapiti (elk). As the tour unfolds, guests will also see water buffalo, wild pig, sheep, rabbit, pheasant, partridge, geese, duck, rainbow and brown trout.

The Safari concludes with the option of participating in a half day onsite Wild Food Cooking School. The School commences with native ingredient gathering in the pristine wilderness of Treetop's 800-year-old forest.

Accompanied by a knowledgeable chef, guests learn how to source from the forest indigenous herbs and flora such as the tangy kawakawa and peppery horopito. Then it's back to the Lodge's open-plan kitchen to watch as these are transformed into signature Treetops dishes. The Estate is a literal gourmet food store showcasing game meats of venison, buffalo, wild pork, wild poultry and our own trout and koura (freshwater crayfish) from the seven lakes and streams. Guests experience a swath of flavours including species of venison and game that they have never tasted before; wild pork, pheasant, partridge, wild trout – all cleverly blended with fresh herbs,

sister lodge due to open in May 2015. For those wanting to relax and be pampered, a Spa was opened in 2014 specialising in traditional Maori treatments.

The Safari is subject to availability and is complimentary for in-house guests based on our all-inclusive tariff.

Visit Treetop's website at www.treetops.co.nz or phone +64 7 333 2066

Wild Food & Wine Cooking

Pan Roasted Kawakawa Cured Venison Medallions

vegetables to produce a flavour unique to New Zealand.

But wait, it is not just the participants of the “Estate to Plate Safari” that experience the wild food of Treetops. The philosophy of “Estate to Plate” is showcased at every meal and snack at the lodge. The lodge has a commitment to serving (where at all possible) estate reared produce. This aspirational commitment evolves from the traditional regional tables of the world's great, self-reliant country estates before refrigeration, freezers and pre-packs but with the addition of 21st century twists.

Every morning the chef sources produce from the estate garden and meets with our resident gamekeeper to select game and fish ingredients for the day. By late morning, he is at his desk crafting dishes to the preferred tastes of that night's guests. The menus are European contemporary; using simple techniques to bring out the clear, fresh flavours – but remember every season is different, and this is reflected in the dishes.

The “Estate to Plate” 4WD Safari is based on a minimum of two guests and takes approximately one to two hours. You will need to allow a half day for the Wild Food Cooking School. Additionally, Treetops provides a range of other activities suitable for the whole family: junior cooking classes, photography 4WD safaris, helicopter tours, Maori poi making and flax weaving. For those wanting to do something more physically demanding we offer mountain biking and hiking to spectacular waterfalls and active volcanoes. Our guests also have exclusive use of the nearby Kinloch Golf Course, Taupo - Treetops'

A group taking the 4wd Safari

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

33

The tranquillity and sense of being ‘at one’ with the native bush, the expansive water views and birdsong of the Sounds, coupled with the feeling like you’re sitting in the comfort of your home, being spoilt with the service of a boutique hotel, is what luxurious Raetihi Lodge prides itself on.

Extensively rebuilt and re-modelled with new interior design concepts throughout, our accommodation, restaurant and facilities are rated 4-Star Plus Hosted Qualmark with luxury and comfort amidst the serenity and nature of the New Zealand native beach trees and bush. Our new floating jetty makes accessibility a joy. A waters edge retreat with stunning views over the water, Raetihi Lodge sets its own standards for gracious and unsurpassed hospitality and excellent dining.

The Marlborough Sounds is one of New Zealand’s iconic playgrounds and has for over 100 years attracted local and international visitors who share a passion for activities such as boating, fishing, hiking, bush walks, sailing, kayaking, bird-watching, photography and just relaxing enjoying the finer things in life. Nestled in a secluded bay of extraordinary natural beauty in the Kenepuru Sound, Raetihi Lodge has built a reputation as one of the most popular destinations in the Sounds dating back to the 1930’s.

LUXURY ACCOMMODATION The casual elegance of our luxury retreat accommodation is enhanced by the intimacy of the 14 rooms, which can accommodate up to 30 people. There is also a separate Guest Lounge, quite separate from the restaurant and public areas.

Raetihi also has a resident masseuse, Juli, who is incredible, and has had people coming back to her for many years. The Lodge has been recently refurbished in a cosy and comfortable Hampton’s style with new luxury ensemble beds that Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015 34

you’ll melt into. The rooms feature an en-suite bathroom, tea/coffee facilities; fridge and wireless internet throughout the property. Dine on an extensive & fresh selection of seafood, fine NZ meat and local produce, themed to suit the season and complemented by the finest regional wines in New Zealand.

Everyday dining at Raetihi Lodge, is informal but elegant and relaxed: the epitome of fresh New Zealand cuisine.

CUISINE, WINE & DINING Sitting by the water’s edge, dine on an ever-changing feast of seafood, mouth-watering New Zealand meats and fresh local produce, themed to suit the season and complemented by the finest regional wines in New Zealand.

Everyday dining at Raetihi Lodge in the Marlborough Sounds is informal but elegant and relaxed, the epitome of fresh New Zealand cuisine. Our Restaurant welcomes casual diners for breakfast, lunch and dinner, 7 days a week. Our new floating jetty makes accessibility easy, and you can tie up without hassle.

Whether you sample our 3-course evening meal or indulge in a long lazy lunch

on the deck overlooking the blue waters of the Marlborough Sounds, your taste buds will be fulfilled!

BREAKFAST - A wide selection of breakfast items from fresh Muesli and Fruit, to Eggs Florentine, to the Kenepuru Breakfast feast, all prepared to your liking.

LUNCH - Lunch is elegant casual and can be served on the sundeck. Making a choice between dishes like Marlborough Green-Lipped Mussels, Rib-Eye Steak Sandwich, Fresh Seasonal Salads or Fish n Chips will be your only challenge.

DINNER - Dinner is elegant, can be romantic, but always comfortable and inviting. Our Chefs hail from the different parts of the world, and as a result our A La Carte Menu is a fusion of contemporary food tastes that is always made with the freshest and the best local ingredients.

WINE SELECTION - Regional wines from Marlborough, including Red Deer and Tindall Wineries, combined with a wider selection of fine NZ and international wines are proudly showcased alongside the superb cuisine.

ACTIVITIES ‘The Sounds’ are simply New Zealand’s foremost marine playground for yachting, fishing, swimming, sailing and sight-seeing.

Why not consider: • Walking Tracks: Queen Charlotte Track and Nydia Track • Fishing: Half day or Full day Guided Trips • Boating: Half and Full-day Skippered Sailing trips, plus Bareboat Charter facilities, Boating Safaris in your own outboard motor boat, Mussel Cruises, Historical Tours of the Sounds • Scenic Flights and transfers: by helicopter or float plane • Marlborough Wine Tours Around Raetihi Lodge, relax with a wide variety of recreational options available. Days at Raetihi Lodge pass by blissfully • Complementary mountain bikes, kayaks and stand-up paddle boards (SUPs) are available for your enjoyment • Complementary use of fishing rods and dinghy rowing boats, or try your hand fishing off the jetty • Treat yourself to a relaxing massage

• Follow one of the bush-walking tracks over the Nature Reserve • Take a swim in the bay • Retire in the guest lounge to read, play board games or watch TV, or lounge by the warmth of the fire with a good book • Ever-changing light conditions present stunning photographic opportunities, as evidenced from the Photo Gallery in the Lodge • The marine environment and natural bush provides amazing opportunities to observe native birds, flora and fauna • Play 12-holes of golf at the Nopera Golf Course nearby, which is sheep grazed with fenced greens. (Nominal green fee and golf hire available) • Enjoy a game of Boules or croquet on the French Courtyard and lawn • Picnics can be supplied from our restaurant for any of your activities AS A PRIVATE VENUE Should you be looking for a secluded and private venue that offers luxury accommodation and facilities, fine cuisine with friendly, impressive service but also the tranquillity and beauty of the Sounds, then consider using the entire Lodge for your special occasion, possibly: • Your Corporate Event, Retreat or Team-Building Weekend • An Intimate Wedding • Family Holiday/Reunion/Get together for extended family • Book Club or ‘Girls Weekend’ GETTING THERE

BY BOAT Our skipper and Guest Transfer boat, Miss Raetihi Lodge, can collect you from Te Mahia Jetty or Portage in the Kenepuru Sound, OR Waterfall Bay or Torea in the Queen Charlotte Sound • Private boats are welcome to use the floating jetty and tie up on one of our moorings (Mooring fee if staying overnight) • Water Taxi • Kayak to us for lunch or a coffee!

BY AIR • Float plane from Picton or Wellington • Fixed-wing plane from Wellington, into Nopera Airstrip • Helicopter from anywhere, landing on our Helipad

BY ROAD • Drive the very scenic Kenepuru Road directly to Raetihi Lodge • Cycle, if you’re keen!

7124 Kenepuru Road, Kenepuru Sound, Marlborough Sounds, NZ

64 3 573 4300

Visit us online and find out more...

www.raetihilodge.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

35

Northland

Northland

The Poor Knights Marine Reserve Pristine, Protected and Inspirational

Photo credit: Yukon Dive

by Alison Braithwaite

A visit to the Poor Knights Marine Reserve has been on my wish list for a number of years now. These protected islands and surrounding waters have a reputation as being one of the most pristine marine ecosystems on the planet. They have featured in groundbreaking documentaries such as the BBC’s Blue Planet and Planet Earth series as well as a National Geographic magazine special edition on marine protected areas.

36

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

As a marine ecologist I’m acutely aware of the many challenges facing the ocean worldwide.

It’s now widely recognised that marine protected areas like the Poor Knights offer beacons of hope for restoring the ocean to a healthy state. Recently I had the opportunity to visit the Poor Knights Marine Reserve for a week,

It’s all on Ocean & Orchard Food & Wine Festival – Feb 28 Opera in the Garden – March 14 Mangonui Waterfont Festival / Last of the Summer Wine - April 11 21st Houhora One Base Gamefishing Tournament March 18 – 21 More info: www.northlandnz.com

to see for myself whether it lives up to all the hype.

T

he islands lie 24 kilometres offshore from Northland’s Tutukaka coast, a short, scenic drive from Whangarei, which is the regional capital of Northland. The coast itself is simply stunning and might well be one of New Zealand’s best-­kept secrets. The Tutukaka village and marina is nestled in a natural harbour with sheltered anchorages, safe swimming beaches and native bush reserves. With a Hotel and Conference Centre, quirky boutique shops and art galleries, the iconic Snappa Rock Café and quite possibly the best Pizzeria in New Zealand, the marina village makes an ideal base to explore the area.

The marina is also home base

for my hosts, Noel Erickson and Jo Thomson from Yukon Dive. They have a reputation as being the ‘operator of choice’ for local divers, always a good sign. Noel has been diving the Poor Knights for over thirty years and together they started Yukon Dive twelve years ago. They now have two purpose built dive boats in their fleet; the 10.5 metre ‘Arrow’, catering for up to twelve divers, and ‘Pacific Hideaway’ a spacious and comfortable catamaran that not only provides a stable platform for day trips but also caters for up to twelves divers overnight.

My first day out is on Arrow. Once everyone has been kitted out with equipment and Noel has given us a safety briefing we are ready to go. As we leave the harbour entrance behind and steam into the gentle ocean swell the Poor Knights Islands appear like

emerald jewels, atop the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean. The Poor Knights are the remains of an ancient volcano that last erupted 10 million years ago. Millions of years of wind and wave action, combined with glacial and inter-­glacial sea level change has created islands of dramatic grandeur, with sheer cliffs, ruggedly sculptured archways and massive sea caves, all capped with dense native forest.

Our first dive is a site called ‘Middle Arch’, one of eight archways open to the surface and suitable for divers and snorkelers alike. These archways are especially rich in encrusting life, thanks to the concentrated flow of nutrient rich water upwelling from the nearby continental shelf. Sponges, jewel anemones, gorgonian fans, ascidians, hydroids and bryozoans festoon the walls and floors of the archways and literally bring the rocks alive in a riot of colour and texture. Middle Arch has another unique feature, an air-­bubble in the roof of an underwater cave. Swimming into Bernie’s cave divers can surface in the air-­bubble and yet their depth gauges are still registering a depth of eight metres below the surface.

From a marine ecology perspective the second dive in Maroro Bay gives me the first indication of the benefits of marine reserve status. Snorkelling ten metres out from the vertical cliffs

Photo credit: Yukon Dive

Scorpion fish

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

37

I look down into the blue depths of these protected waters and witness an entire food web in progress. Directly below me a shaft of sunlight reflects off the iridescent blue carapace of tiny copepods, scurrying through the water column grazing on phytoplankton.

Comb jellies and salps sieve the water through translucent bodies. Clouds of two spot demoiselles pirouette with outstretched pectoral fins as they delicately pluck tiny zooplankton morsels. A school of koheru, mouths agape, sift the planktonic soup in perfect unison.

Against the cliff face a swarm of pink-­fleshed krill are corralled into a corner and devoured by hungry snapper. Below them reef fish move away from the rocks and kelp to feast on the morsels raining down from the orgy above. Nearer the surface a mixed school of trevally and blue maomao form a ‘wall of mouths’; driving swarms of tiny mysid shrimps before them.

And prowling amongst them all are the top predators – kingfish -­watchful and patient, biding their time and secure in their apex role. So far the Poor Knights

38

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

is more than living up to expectations.

The next day Noel had a group booking on Pacific Hideaway so our skipper on Arrow was long time Poor Knights diver and fellow marine ecologist Glenn Edney. Glenn has been working with Noel and Jo for many years and is absolutely passionate about the Poor Knights and the benefits of marine reserves.

He has written a field guide to the islands and marine reserve and is a veritable fountain of knowledge about the ecology of this very special environment.

Our first dive of the day is at Northern Arch, made famous by the BBC’s ‘Blue Planet’ as the meeting place for dozens of giant black stingrays. Ironically the stingrays disappeared from the archway not long after the BBC filmed them and have only recently returned, although they have remained in other parts of the reserve. Theories abound as to why the stingrays abandoned the archway, including irregular hunting forays by orca. Glenn’s ‘pet’ theory is that it may have something to do with the El Nino, La-­Nina oscillation, although he admits

Did you know?

Maori name Te Tai Tokerau (Tail of the fish) Population - 158, 200 Area - 13, 789 km2 Main reason to visit Weather and people Top attraction - Beaches Fun fact - Only 10km coast-tocoast at thinnest point in NZ

that it would take decades to test.

Whatever the reason, I was just grateful to witness this extraordinary sight.

Our second dive of the day is at another archway, this time at the southern end of the islands. Blue Mao Mao Arch is perhaps one of the most enjoyable dives I have ever done, and I’m not alone. The great ocean explorer and ‘father’ of scuba diving, Jacques Yves Cousteau, visited the islands and was so impressed by Blue Mao Mao Arch that he rated it as one of his top ten dive locations in the world. The arch gets its name from the huge schools

strengthened my opinion that the Poor Knights is indeed one of the most outstanding dive destinations in the world. Their protected status is a shining beacon for how we can improve our relationship with the ocean. As Glenn writes in his book,

the Poor Knights is ‘… a place where people can re-­connect with nature, a place where they can be inspired.’

At the end of my week diving with Yukon Dive at the Poor Knights I left feeling inspired, reinvigorated and full of hope. GTNZ

Photo credit: Yukon Dive

of blue maomao the congregate in the arch, sometimes so dense that they block the light. This shallow arch is equally accessible to snorkelers and divers alike and epitomises these very special islands.

The rest of my week only

Ngunguru Sandspit, Tutukaka Coast

GET

10% OFF

Cape Reinga Tour

Use the code

GTDRUT * Conditions Apply * Valid until December 2015

Buffet lunch is provided

ur Cape Rein nga and 90 Mile Beach Tou Locally owned and operated Dune Rider Kaitaia has a fun filled day tour designed for a memorable experience, exploring the far north.

Features include Cape Reinga Lighthouse, 90 Mile Beach, Sand Boarding, Gumdiggers Park, Kauri Kingdom Shop.

Sit back and enjoy this unique Dune Rider experience

Daily Coach Tours from Kaitaia, Ahipara and Mangonui www.capereingatours.co.nz www.facebook.com/duneriderkaitaia (09) 408 2411 OR 0800 DUNE NZ

Conditions for discount: * To be booked direct (via phone or website) using promo code GTDRUT * Valid for Cape Reinga Tour Only * Subject to availability, weather and minimum numbers * Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer * For tours departing Kaitaia/Ahipara only

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

39

Bay of Islands

Bay of Islands

Taiamai Tours Tour of a Lifetime

by Patti Brown

I remember clearly my first experience of Maoritanga (Maori culture) as an adult. The University of Canterbury’s Te Roopu Maori (Maori Group) were performing a haka in one of the common rooms.

Their clear voices full of mana resonated throughout the room and the rhythmic stamping of feet shook the floor. Passion and pride emanated from the faces of the young adult Maori. Their spirit moved me and I have sought out similar experiences since then.

40

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Travelling recently to the Bay of Islands I had the good fortune to read about the highly regarded Taiamai Tours. In 2013 they featured on the list of the world’s top 50 “Tours of a Lifetime” in the National Geographic Traveller magazine. Offering authentic, interactive cultural experiences the tours are hosted by Hone Mihaka a Chief of the Ngapuhi Iwi (tribe) and his extended family.

I

immediately decided to put the tour at the top of my itinerary and booked in for the following morning. I opted for the hands-on Waka (Maori war canoe) Experience. I always wanted to see a waka up close and the idea of learning how to paddle and manoeuvre such an awesome ancient vessel was incredibly appealing. Booking was as simple as a phone call to the friendly and welcoming team at Taiamai Tours who advised me to wear clothing suitable for the weather conditions, soft-soled shoes or reef shoes and also to bring a water bottle, insect repellent, sunblock etc. I loved that they reminded me to bring a camera and a smile!

The morning was clear and calm as a group of 16 enthusiastic and slightly

nervous adventurers gathered at 9.45 am at the Waitangi River Bridge. I felt so welcome as our Maori hosts warmly greeted us. Before we departed, our Chief Hone gave a traditional karakia (prayer) in Maori which he then translated to English. The meditative cadence of his voice dispelled the little nervousness I was feeling. Hone spoke of how we are all in our own separate canoes paddling through life and that he now invited us to “symbolically tether our canoes together and embark on a journey of enlightenment and understanding”. Hone has the gift of saying things that seem to resonate and yet his personality is warm and I found his frequent laughter to be infectious.

We were escorted down to the water for a safety briefing and a close-up look at our impressive waka which although created from a combination of wood and modern material, looked as though it had been transported from ancient times to the here and now.

We were shown how to paddle and spent a little time practising the movements on land. Our hosts, Hone’s tribesfolk, guided us aboard and quickly put everyone at ease.

Before long our waka was gliding out over the glassy estuary of the Waitangi.

At 50 feet in length it felt incredible to be helping to propel a vessel of such magnitude. Although physical, the act of paddling is rhythmical and soothing.

It’s all on Upsurge Festival – April 23 - 26 Bay of Islands Country Rock Festival – May 8 - 10 Bay of Islands Farmers Market – Feb 5 to April 2 More info: www.bay-of-islands.nz.com I felt a calm settle over me and joined in the haka that our hosts were teaching us. The cadence of the words of Ka Mate inspired us all to paddle in unison and with intent. It was fun to see the passion my fellow paddlers put into it.

Our hosts effortlessly related stories of love, war and peace, and communities that adhered to the principles of sustainability since the beginning of time. The journey was not about pointing out geological features, flora and fauna; I felt drawn into a living cultural landscape woven by our hosts.

The first leg of our journey was to end at the sacred Haruru Falls (“noisy water”). On our approach our hosts pointed out their Marae and asked us to pull the waka up to the shore. It felt like an unexpected reward for our efforts to be invited to meet some of our hosts’ family.

Several of their whanau were present and we were greeted and soundly challenged (traditionally the purpose of the challenge is to establish whether

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

41

visitors are friend or foe). After assessing that we posed no threat the home people warmly welcomed us into their wharenui (meeting house) which, as in ancient times, still has a dirt floor.

No amount of words can describe the powerful cultural experience we found ourselves immersed in during that special time in the meeting house. We were literally transported into another world so beautiful that it has left me with enduring memories. This part of our incredible journey is nothing like other Maori tourism experiences on offer for tourists throughout New Zealand. My waka journey was real and steeped in spirituality; I was beginning to fully appreciate the depth of this amazing culture. Once outside again I took the opportunity to take photos before heading back to the waka to continue our journey.

We soon reached the Haruru Falls.

Overall the first leg of our trip took a little more than an hour and yet I had been so engrossed by the experience it felt like only a few minutes! The waterfall is in a stunning horseshoe formation five metres high, creating a powerful cascade of water. Our hosts brought the magic of the falls to life

with vivid oratory and there was plenty of time to take some beautiful images.

The rest of the journey sped by as our hosts pointed out the native birds and fish and spoke of traditional methods of hunting and gathering.

It was an unexpected reward to encounter local tribesfolk gathering seafood out on the water and some friendly and humorous banter was exchanged, which got us all laughing.

“ALTHOUGH PHYSICAL, THE ACT OF PADDLING IS RHYTHMICAL AND SOOTHING. I FELT A CALM SETTLE OVER ME AND JOINED IN THE HAKA THAT OUR HOSTS WERE TEACHING US. It was fascinating to see the methods of gathering which our hosts had been speaking of, put into practice right in front of us all. After three hours our journey was completed by a reluctant return to the bridge at Waitangi.

My time on the water was unforgettable. Taiamai Tours philosophy

Taiamai Tours Heritage Journeys is a locally owned Moari family tourism venture

42

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

that money simply buys a seat on a Maori War Canoe and that everything else is what they have chosen to share makes the experience unique and meaningful; this is definitely not a paintby-numbers tour. Hone and his family’s’ generosity of spirit shone throughout as did their genuine desire to educate and uplift their guests. As I disembarked from Waka Taua and I was reluctantly brought back to 2015, I could not help but feel that I had been richly rewarded by my journey.

Taiamai Tours Heritage Journeys is a locally owned Maori family tourism venture. Despite living in a modern day technological world they choose to practice the ancient customs and traditions of Manaakitanga (hospitality) and Kaitiakitanga (guardianship of the land) sharing these values and principles with all who visit the Bay of Islands of New Zealand. GTNZ

Did you know?

Maori name - Ipipiri Population - 4,500 Area - 260 km2 Main reason to visit The Islands Top attraction - Waitangi Treaty Grounds Fun fact - Russell was NZ’s first capital

WelcOme

nau mai

We confidently claim to be, Northland’s premier Maori cultural tourism experience.

Our interactive Waka (Maori war canoe) experience provides a rare and unique insight into the ancient customs, rituals and traditions of our tribe, the Ngapuhi. It’s a perfect combination of eco, spiritual and interactive indigenous culture.

Through active participation and involvement in our culture you are left with everlasting memories. Our ancient history and stories we share with you as we paddle a 40 ft Waka Taua (War Canoe) together on the tidal estuaries of the Waitangi River.

Ph 09 405 9990

Mobile 027 290 7047

www.taiamaitours.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

43

Auckland

Auckland

Drifting away in a Blastacar

by Sarah Slade

Being a petrol head and a sucker for speed related activities, I was curious indeed when I heard about New Zealand’s own “Blastacars”.

44

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

It boasts as being the “world’s first drift kart track” and the staff there are known to get a tad offended when one calls them a Go-Kart as they are “much, much different“ which seemed to be their mantra.

They certainly looked different but what else is unusual?

B

lastacars is the work of a Kiwi bloke, Peter Zyp, who has been developing the karts since 1987. He has been refining and changing their design from his Hamilton City track for over 20 years but it is the recently opened Auckland track out West that I ventured to. I arrived to see BBQ facilities, party rooms, arcade games and a viewing deck to check out all the action of the indoor track but it was the racing that I was interested in. After watching a quick briefing video and a hands on test to prove I could reverse (you can do it yourself instead of waiting to be assisted by track staff) it was time to race. The first thing you

Friendly Blastcar staff can help you with anything you need

notice when you slip into the kart is how much more comfortable they are. I am 6 foot tall and didn’t feel cramped at all. To my right was an 8 year old kid also strapped in. (You only need to be 1.2 metres and 8 to race here with the

help of a booster seat.) You also notice a pretty impressive Honda engine sticking out the back of the kart idling away (a 270cc kart for the first timers and an intimidating looking 390cc kart for those who prove their skill and gain

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

45

It’s all on Auckland Arts Festival March 4 - 22 Barfoot & Thompson World Triathlon – March 28 - 29 NZ International Comedy Festival – April 24 to May 18 ITM 500 Auckland 2015 (V8 Supercars) – November 6 – 8 More info: www.aucklandnz.com

46

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Did you know?

Nickname - The City of Sails Population - 1.486 million Area - 4, 894 km2 Main reason to visit - West Coast beaches Top attraction - Waiheke Island Fun fact - Auckland has the highest percentage of boat owners in the world per capita a “Black Card”). I was signalled to go by the staff, slammed my foot down on the accelerator, raced into a straight and hooked right into a corner. A strange feeling then came over me, like gliding on ice the kart began to slide out from under me as my head made a pitiful attempt at gazing where I wanted to go whilst the kart disagreed and did the exact opposite. I found myself facing a wall of tyres and agreed with the staff right then and there; these were not like go karts indeed.

I am used to the jerky and tense struggle with a go kart’s steering wheel as you force it into corners and fight with the wheels, foot flat to the floor, finding the widest entry into corners, sticking hard to your opponent waiting for them to make a fraction of an error to slip in front for the triumphant fastest time. This was not like that at all. This was a smooth art not to be rushed. Drifting is not achieved by merely accelerating

through a corner, you have torque and power at your disposal and if you try to use all of it you will be meeting the edge of the track like I did due to the unique slippery concrete surface.

Drifting requires a confident amount of speed into a corner and turning much earlier than you would expect to send the kart sliding. Then it’s all about pumping and working the gas whilst turning into the opposite direction to send your kart sliding at an angle around the corner, only to give a quick flick of the steering and the gas to do the same into the next.

Let me tell you, it feels great! Think “Tokyo Drift”, think rally racing or drift battles without all the clouds of dust or smoking tyres. It took me a good couple of laps to get a feel for it but by the end I managed to drift around

the entire track. It’s especially a thrill when you take on other racers, up to 12 can race at once on the 220 metre long indoor track with wide sweeping corners that leave a lot of space for overtaking. After my first fifteen minute session I was itching for more and ended up going for a total of 3 x 15 minute sessions. The pricing was very competitive, working out cheaper than the other tracks in Auckland and the staff were friendly and even pulled me over to give a couple of pointers on how to improve my drifting. If you are like me and have a need for speed, want something fun to do with the family or friends or have had your other plans spoiled by the weather or time (They are open until 10pm!) then I highly recommend Blastacars Drift Karts. GTNZ

Game on!

Having a Blast!

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

47

Coromandel

Coromandel

Amazing Coromandel A Cyclist’s Paradise

By Tara Kennon

For years, I’ve considered The Coromandel my best-kept secret. It’s not really a secret, of course: with its gorgeous beaches and rainforests, this region is practically synonymous with summer for generations of Kiwis. But few of the folks I cycle with realise what a paradise it is for training and racing. Lately, the secret has been getting out -- so I pulled a few friends together for the ultimate cycling weekend.

48

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

The Coromandel is a real playground for people who love rugged terrain, remote mountain bike trails and exhilarating tramping tracks that take in secluded beaches and towering peaks. Plus, the laid-back energy that permeates the peninsula (a haven for artists and musicians) is hard to resist. It’s a great balance for going all-out on the trail.

O

ver the last decade, race organizers have been catching on. I’ve heard more people chatting about their great experiences in events like the Colville Connection, Surf to Firth off-road marathon and The Nugget multisport festival. I’d been toying with the idea of tackling a Coromandel race when a friend came home talking about the awesome sights on the Colville Connection. That did it. I decided this was the year to take on the race I’d been eyeing since it launched in 2002: the K2 cycle race. At nearly 200 (steep and hilly) kilometres, the K2 circuit takes in the white sand beaches of the east coast, the rocky west coast and the towering bush-clad mountain range in between. One rider likened it to “a

day in the European mountains, except with sand!” It didn’t take long to convince a few of my training pals to sign on for the adventure.

We arrived in Thames on a Friday afternoon after a short and scenic drive from Auckland airport. After settling into our accommodation at Cotswold Cottage, we tucked into dinner at the Grahamstown Bar & Diner in the heart of this historic gold mining village.

The place was full of energy and full of cyclists getting ready for a big day tomorrow.

We woke up early to a classic Kiwi breakfast and made our way to town for the 8 am start. We opted for the 192-K Cranleigh route, the main race for serious but recreational riders. (The same route also has an elite category for those who plan to complete it in six hours.) Shorter routes range from 53139 kilometres.

Although I’ve been riding in The Coromandel for years and had even covered part of this route in my training, nothing prepared me for the thrill and challenge we took on. It was honestly the toughest and most breathtaking ride of my life. The energy and camaraderie amongst the cyclists was stellar, and the scenery was like nothing I’ve previously experienced.

It’s one thing to relax on a beach, but there’s nothing like the rush of being part of the landscape in a race that

Port Jackson

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

49

makes you give it your all. When the Firth of Thames came into sight, and we descended toward the (long and twisty) home stretch of the Thames Coast Road, I swore I’d tackle this race again.

That night, we soaked under the stars in the spa pool at Cotswold, re-hashing the toughest ascents and

trickiest turns over a beer crafted by the local Boilerhouse Brewing Company.

Sunday morning saw us happy but exhausted at the breakfast table. We took our time over coffee, then got back on our bikes for a gentle meander along the Hauraki Rail Trail (just 500 metres from our cottage) to the

wonderful Matatoki Cheese barn. We earned every bite of Gouda and carrot cake we found there.

That night, we treated ourselves to dinner at a gem I’d discovered on my previous visits to the Rail Trail: the Bistro at the Falls Retreat in the Karangahake Gorge. We drove this time, with stops along the way for

Hauraki Rail Trail

121A Cook Drive, Whitianga 3510 Phone: 07 866 0456 Fax: 07 866 0457 Email us today: magic@thelostspring.co.nz (General enquiries) dayspa@thelostspring.co.nz (Dayspa bookings and enquiries)

Crystal Clear water from 667 meters below the earth’s surface.

50

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

photos of the Gorge and the nearby Owharoa Falls. I couldn’t resist the wood-fired pizza I remembered from a lunch last year. It was even better than I recalled, and my friend claimed the lamb shoulder was the best he’d ever had.

“THE K2 LIVES UP TO ITS REPUTATION OF BEING THE TOUGHEST ONE-DAY RACE IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, BUT IT’S SIMPLY THE MOST REWARDING 200KM YOU’LL EVER TRAVEL

Monday morning, we took our coffees and drank them at the picnic table next to the start of the Scarface trail, a new mountain bike track through the hills behind Thames. It follows sled tracks built in the 1860s to carry gold ore to the stamper batteries that dotted the hills. We checked out the trail but

It’s all on Mercury Bay Art Escape March 8 & 9, 14 & 15 A Taste of Matarangi – April 11 Whangamata Adventure Race – April 25 The Nugget Multi Sport Festival – May 9 More info: www.thecoromandel.com decided to save it for next time; though my brain liked the idea, my legs didn’t.

Fortunately, we built in plenty of time for a leisurely afternoon at the Miranda hot pools about half an hour outside of Thames. It’s the largest mineral hot pool in the Southern Hemisphere and exactly what the doctor ordered for post-race aches. It’s also conveniently on the way to Kaiaua, the tiny town that’s home to a fish and chips shop the locals rave about. After digging into about half of the menu, we decided they’re on to something. From Kaiaua, we took the winding scenic route back to the airport, still re-living

Did you know?

Nickname - The Coro Population - 26, 178 Area - 2, 201 km2 Main reason to visit Iconic Coastline Top attraction - Hot Water Beach / Cathedral Cove Fun fact - Dig your own hot pool on Hot Water Beach at low tide the twists and turns of the race and contemplating which one to take on next.

My thoughts turned to Phil Keoghan, the New Zealander, who hosted TV’s “Amazing Race” for many years and took on the K2 himself.

“The K2 lives up to its reputation of being the toughest one-day race in the Southern Hemisphere,” he said, “but it’s simply the most rewarding 200km you’ll ever travel.”

After this weekend, I’m sure he’s right. My secret may be out, but with this awesome terrain and great company, I’m happy to share. GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

51

Waikato

Waikato

Delving into the Underworld A Kiwi Cave Rafting Experience

Simon and Maria Hall have been taking people from all over the world on underground adventures since 1996. When they first began it was just Simon and Maria; Simon guiding the tours and Maria taking bookings and running the office side of things (allowing her to work from home and raise their four children). For many years, their office was a van, collecting clients either from their accommodation or the Waitomo Caves site.

52

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

In 2004, the opportunity arose to buy a property on the Waitomo Caves Road, and this became the backpackers and office of today. It is here that the Kiwi Cave Rafting underworld experience begins.

A

t the office, there are the necessary forms to fill in and a reminder of what is needed for the tour. On the wall is a certificate showing they have passed the adventure activity safety audit and gained the Outdoors Mark.

The tour begins with a short drive through the scenic King Country ( Te Rohe Potae – the area of the hat); a mixture of dairy and dry stock farmland with limestone outcrops and pockets of Kahikatea trees. The road narrows, becoming gravel before arriving at the changing rooms. The small concrete block building was built by the owner of the cave, Derek Mason, as a young man back in the 1950s. Here, we are handed our caving attire, 5mm wetsuits (longjohns and jackets) protective overpants – also known as “eel pants” or “sexy pants” and footwear. Then comes the safety equipment – full body harness, abseil rack, cowstails (safety lines) and helmets.

Once everyone is dressed to the nines and given the once over by the guide and all personal belongings are locked away in a secure container, we move on to the next stage; learning how to abseil. The guide gives very clear instructions on how to load the rack with the rope and where to keep our hands while abseiling and most importantly how to slow down and stop. After a few practice runs down the slope, we are ready to move on to the real thing.

A narrow foot trail wends its way to the Maungawhitikau Cave. As we near the tomo (hole or shaft of the cave) we are instructed to attach ourselves to the safety lines. Once on the platform we are given one last safety inspection and expertly moved into position. The view from the platform is breathtaking; the sunlight highlighting the amazing vegetation that clings to the side of the tomo. There are seemingly 50

shades of green, the rocks glisten with moisture and far below is the glint of the cave stream. As I descend into the cave, the air becomes cooler, and my eyes and ears are filled with the sight and sound of water rushing into the darkness.

Before long everyone is in the cave, and we are handed the most important piece of equipment, the inner tube. We make our way upstream, hugging our rafts tight. It doesn’t take long for the darkness to envelop us, and it is time to rely on the helmet headlamps to light the way. As we explore along the passage, I see the sinuous silver of an eel in the water as it moves amongst the rocks searching for a meal.

We reach a pebble beach, and our guide has us sit and turn out our lights.

We sit in silence, hearing only the soft babble of the water and the occasional liquid drip from a stalactite. At first I can see a hundred lights, and then a hundred more and soon a thousand and suddenly there are whole universes

It’s all on ICC Cricket World Cup 2015 – Feb 15 – March 13 Hamilton Mini Fringe Festival – March 12 - 21 Balloons Over Waikato Festival – March 25 - 29 The Generator – April 18 April More info: www.hamiltonwaikato.com and galaxies of glowworms. The guide gives an informative rundown on the life cycle and inner workings of these luminous larvae. There is the unique opportunity to view them up close, hanging in hammock-like webs, delicate threads trailing underneath, with glistening globules of glue to capture any unsuspecting insects flying towards the light.

The next part of the tour is less about education and more about having fun and challenging ourselves; it’s time to

Cave walking with inner tubes for rafting

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

53

5

SPECTACULAR CAVING ADVENTURES IN ONE

w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m . k i w i c a v e r a f t i n g n z

KIWI CAVE RAFTING

put these cave rafts to use and explore the cave system. We make our way floating back downstream under the soft blue light of the glowworms Along the way there are holes of varying sizes and lengths for us to crawl and squeeze through. Those who aren’t so brave watch from the main passage of the cave as others take turns to twist and contort their bodies through the limestone underworld.

Further and further into the cave we go, floating past otherworldly formations, flowstones and intricate shawls. Stalactites hang elegantly from the cave roof, and the stalagmites on the floor strive century after century to touch them. Eventually we reach the point of return, and the guide produces a magic energy elixir of hot juice and chocolate. It is a muchneeded boost that gets us back to the

Kiwi Cave Rafting 95 Waitomo Caves Road, Waitomo New Zealand www.caveraft.com

NZ Freephone 0800 228 372 54

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Amazing glowworms

Did you know?

Maori Name - Waikato Population - 430, 800 Area - 25, 000 km2 Main reason to visit - Surfing and Glow Worms Top attraction - Raglan’s surf spots and Waitomo Caves Fun fact - The wave at Raglan is the longest left hand point break in the world

entrance. Our guide cheerfully tells us: “welcome to the second to last challenge” as they gesture towards the 20 metre rock face, “your final challenge is... getting your wetsuits off back at the changing rooms”. We all breathe a sigh of relief and chat

nervously amongst ourselves as we wait our turn in the safe zone. One by one we clip into the belay line and one by one we step, pull, scramble and climb our way to the top. We gather at the top with grins of achievement on our faces.

Back at the changing rooms I discover that our guide wasn’t joking about the wetsuits being the last challenge.

I wriggle and peel it off and step into a hot shower. The return journey to the office passes quickly. We are invited in and given a steaming cup of tomato soup and a bread roll. As I savour my soup, we are shown the series of photos taken on the tour. Shrieks and snorts of laughter ensue as we see ourselves wearing the caving attire, oohs and aahs as we recall the glowworms, followed by squeezes and cheers as we see each other reach the top of the climb. For those of us who would like the photos, they are copied on to an 8gb USB stick for $25.00 (this includes an extra 50 photos of the flora, fauna and formations found in the cave).

It was an incredible and unique experience delving into the surreal underworld of this unspoilt natural cave. I will enjoy reliving my journey again and again... GTNZ

The Waikato's Best Kept Secret!

Come and enjoy the famous Kiwi outdoors, beautiful West Coast beaches, sensational panoramic views and the luxurious green pastures of New Zealand.

Try Kontiki fishing for snapper, gurnard, kahawai, and occasional small grey sharks.

Enjoy our great New Zealand bush in the safe hands of Rob, an experienced bushman and local search and rescue volunteer, while hunting New Zealand’s splendid red and fallow deer.

We can cater for all, no experience necessary!

All equipment provided.

Pick ups and drop offs from Waitomo Caves, Te Awamutu or Otorohanga

www.surfandturf.co.nz Rob and Jacqui FitzGerald Email: robjac@xtra.co.nz Phone: (07) 871 1717 Mobile: (027) 278 7219 www.gotravelnewzealand.com Location: Between Te Awamutu and Otorohanga

55

Bay of Plenty

Bay of Plenty

Flying a Gyro is Fun

by John Bennetts

Was it chance or destiny that made me look up at the banner above baggage claim at Tauranga Airport? I have always been fascinated by gyroplanes, the concept of a free spinning, air-driven wing that will not stall is fundamentally intriguing. It intrigued Leonardo de Vinci who sketched a design in the 15th century and in 1923 the concept drove Juan de la Cierva to design the safest aircraft known to man. The fact that today I could walk a few paces and fly a modern factory made gyroplane here in the stunning Bay of Plenty was too good an opportunity to miss.

56

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

I soon found hangar 16 in Dakota Way and was amazed to see some 10 shining machines stored in a space that could contain only a couple of conventional aircraft.

The instructors led me to a briefing room and we completed the normal formalities and discussed the flying available today and the range of future possibilities. My initial experience would be a trial lesson designed to be a first step towards qualifying for a pilot’s certificate issued on behalf of the New Zealand Civil Aviation Authority by a Microlight organisation called RAANZ, Recreational Aircraft Association of New Zealand.

I

t started with a briefing, how a gyroplane works, why the concept is so safe and how straight-forward a modern machine is to fly. If you can drive a car there is no reason why you should not be able to fly a gyroplane!

With the theory of spinning wings, that turn this flying motorbike into the most nimble of aircraft, still revolving in

my brain, I walk outside to confront my chariot of the sky. It does seem a small chariot but what should I expect for it is a microlight.

Every flight of every aircraft everywhere starts with a walk round, we start at the front and cover the whole machine in a circular pattern checking for essentials like fuel and oil but also for the unexpected like loose items that could blow back into the pushing propeller and spoil our day.

So far so good, it’s fit for flight! The next step is a big one; I climb on board and settle in the rear seat located just above the fuel tanks. Although there is little around me I recall the reassurance that the stainless steel frame and the carbon-fibre undercarriage make a triangular protective cage should there be a serious issue. I look around at the basic controls, a joystick and rudder pedals, add on a throttle and a speedo and that’s it. Rather more Biggles than Top Gun I feel.

With my helmet secure I can talk to my instructor and listen to the voice of air traffic control directing speeding machines from the security of a glasshouse with fine views. Following an appropriate check list our engine starts and settles to warm up while we obtain a clearance to taxi. With brakes released we slowly move forward and I try my hand, or should that be foot,

It’s all on Marchwood Blues Picnic March 7 Tauranga Night Market - Sundays Tauranga ½ Marathon – April 12 More info: http://www.bayofplentynz.com at steering through the rudder pedals.

Push right turn right, push left turn left, nothing to this flying thing but what do I do with my hands?? Ok I remember, check the brakes and hold the stick into wind.

“MOVING SLOWLY DOWN THE RUNWAY DRIVEN BY THE PUSHING PROPELLER THE AIR GETS FORCED INTO THE SPINNING DISC, THE LIFT INCREASES, THE NOSE LIFTS AND SECONDS LATER WE ARE AIRBORNE. The route sounds complex to get to the into-wind runway, via Charlie Two, cross One Six Three Four and hold at Bravo Two. No worries, it turns out what they really mean is straight ahead next right and wait at the end.

So we wait, when it’s our turn to use

If you can drive a car, you can fly a gyroplane

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

57

the vast expanse of tarmac we face the small aircraft into the wind and use the engine to turn the stationary rotorblades into a spinning disc. We then disconnect the mechanism and from now on we are a flying windmill, only the air is driving the rotors around and making lift, there is plenty of air where we are going.

“THIS IS SO CLOSE TO NATURE IT COULD BE A SIMULATOR FOR HARRY POTTER ON THAT BROOMSTICK.

Moving slowly down the runway driven by the pushing propeller the air gets forced into the spinning disc, the lift increases, the nose lifts and seconds later we are airborne. Wow this is a real motorbike in the sky, nothing much around me but as we climb the vista starts and goes on forever. Skipping over the golf course we are heading for the beach, tides up and the surf is running. Look right down miles of sand to Maketu, look left, ah there’s the Mount and we are turning that way. There is a voice in my ear, concentrate, look ahead check the horizon, take control and keep the wings level. Now this is different, it responds more easily than I expected, small squeezes create big responses but wow its satisfying when it works out right. I am aware of speed, the air

58

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Did you know?

Nickname - BOP Population - 277, 100 Area - 12,231 km² Main reason to visit - Beaches Top attraction - White Island Fun fact - White Island is NZ’s only active marine volcano is blowing around just like on a bike but the big screen is protective, we are higher now and the ground seems remote so although I can see straight down the vertigo concept does not exist. I am learning to turn the aircraft and to change the nose attitude to climb and descend. Just getting to relax a tad and ease my grip on the stick when the demonstration starts.

Ok, yes I am watching the speed, its reducing - can a plane fly this slowly?

We are standing still! Oh it’s back to zero airspeed and we are still flying, no stall just a sinking feeling. The nose is lowered, the speed increases and we stop sinking!! Wow how cool is that.

We climb again and I take control, more turns and use of rudder. The wind really comes at you if you get the rudder wrong! This is so close to nature it could be a simulator for Harry Potter on that broomstick. We head back towards the airfield and I get the chance to orientate myself with Tauranga from a different angle, almost like looking down at a map. The biggest port in New Zealand in terms of cargo, still has room for 80 odd cruise

liners a year and it’s all here below me amazing. Whoops it’s that voice again, concentrate we are coming down towards the runway now, yes the speed is steady at 60kts, then the nose

lifts we seem to stop in the air and the wheels kiss the ground so softly we stop almost at once. Stick forward, control the rotor and taxi back to the hangar. This is so addictive I need

more, maybe a closed in machine next time or maybe not, the basics are so in your face and it feels just great.

Find out more by visiting www.gyrate.co.nz GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

59

Taupo

Taupo

Being Charmed by Taupo

By Zella Downing

60

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Some holidays don’t require jumping out of an airplane, kayaking over a waterfall, or climbing to the top of a volcano.

Some holidays are meant to be soothing, offer opportunities to soften the pace and just breathe deeply.

T

aupo would doff his hat and cordially invite you to jump, kayak, climb, sail or ski if you chose to do so, but as a gentleman he is also comfortable escorting you through a gallery of calm delights which will leave you feeling pampered, fulfilled, and at ease.

As a tonic for a ruptured relationship, my friend suggested we visit some place in New Zealand where neither of us had been. Te Ika a Maui beckoned.

We flew from Lake Wakatipu to Lake Taupo. The land below, a virile green carpet, had been given a good shake, leaving a compelling series of

upheavals wrinkled in the earth. The burps and bulges spoke of the unrest that sits in the belly of this geothermally charged region. Lending brawn to the story, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe loomed out of a swath of forest that seemed to go on forever.

Our Toyota Camry carried us down an avenue of motels catering for every possible budget, décor preference, theme orientation, and proximity to the water. Closer to town the motels kept to one side of the road, making way for a meandering walkway that strolls beside the shore of the lake. Interesting sculptures grow beside it, and groups of people gather in friendly clusters along the way. The eyes of this little city sparkle when it smiles hello. We felt welcome.

Music, laughter, and conversation rolled out of the cafes, restaurants, and pubs that hug the big corner where the road turns away from the water. Vine Eatery and Bar was highly recommended by a passing band of dining gypsies. Vine offers a shared plate menu which hints at the communal eating traditions of

Did you know?

Nickname - The Great Lake Population - 34, 100 Area - 6, 970 km2 Main reason to visit The Lake and outdoor pursuits Top attraction - Did we mention the Lake?

Fun fact - There are hidden thermal pools on the lakeside

the Greeks, Spanish, and Japanese.

These plates encourage curiosity and adventure by offering small portions and a wide range of options.

Mother Nature didn’t offer much sunshine the next day, but one of the most spectacular rainbows imaginable greeted us good morning. It virtually guided us to Café Larté, a seeming pot of gold where divine food is prepared in a magical world of creative artistry.

Winding mosaic paths and over-sized mosaic easy-chairs establish a sense of reverie and whimsy that is not quite as extensive as the little mosaic house

Creative Taupo

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

61

A bed for every budget, breathtaking views,!

Spa, and Hot Pools

Ph +64 7 378 8559 76 Napier-Taupo Road, SH 5, Taupo Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015 62 www.taupodebretts.co.nz

in Chartres France, but it is enough to suspend the ordinary and allow patrons time to imagine things that might be.

The space is special. It makes patrons feel special, which is one of the reasons why the locals have given it their Midas stamp of approval. All the bobbles and bits for sale remind us to smile and tell us that life is a gift, not a test. We left content and headed to Huka Falls.

A road will take you straight to Huka Falls, but there is also a masterfully groomed walking path accessible through Spa Park Reserve. The rain had ceased falling, but it was a cool

It’s all on Art in the Park - Saturdays Ironman NZ – March 7 Taupo Riverside Market Saturdays Turangi Colours Art Festival April 4 More info: www.greatlaketaupo.com

day. We were truly surprised when we saw about 2 dozen people apparently

SCENIC FLIGHTS lounging in the shallows of the Waikato River. We thought they must be insane or perhaps belong to a polar bear club. We were baffled seeing bikinis and bare chests but no blue lips. The

mystery was solved when we realized that a natural hot spring flows into the Waikato River. These people were sitting in natural hot pools, not the actual river.

Flightseeing at its best!

Discover NZ’s most scenic & spectacular vistas. experience over Tongariro National Park, the Bay of Plenty and, of course, gaining a true perspective of one of NZ’s most scenic regions.

BOOK NOW

07 378 7500 Visit us online at

packages.

FIND US Ferry Road, Boat Wharf, Taupo www.gotravelnewzealand.com /Taupos-Floatplane

63

“IF TAUPO DOFFS HIS HAT AT YOUR ARRIVAL, HE WILL BE BUYING YOU FLOWERS AT YOUR DEPARTURE. It takes about 30 minutes to walk to Huka Falls. The exclusive Huka Lodge is secure on the opposite side of the river, but even from this distance it’s clear why people splurge to spend a

few nights there. Huka Falls is worth the hype. You can see, hear and feel the power of the turquoise water forcing its way through a narrow chasm which it polishes before plunging back into the easy flow of the river. It is a marvel of nature. Watching the water.

Watching people from all over the world watch the water. It was like being in a John Lennon song.

The Huka Falls River Cruise tour boat was teasing its load of passengers, and

those of us watching, by chugging as close to the falls as it could possibly go before exhaling and floating back away. The captain was playing-giving the people aboard as much spectacle as his vessel could muster before releasing itself and drifting back downstream.

Retail therapy sketched the afternoon for us. We had travelled with only carry-on luggage, so we had to be wise with our investments. Shoes

clays

smok et or your hose clay money b s ack

contact us today for a clay target shooting experience that others envy!

0800 clay break (25 29 27) From novice to those more experienced, Clay Break can organise a target to suit all participants. Top of the line clay target traps launch clay birds at varying speeds, angles and heights, accommodating both "newbies” and the more accomplished shot.

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015 64

*shooters must be 16 years or over

“Our one-on-one tuition guarantees you will smoke those clays, or your money back”

TOP 5 ON

Freephone 0800 25 29 27 29 Palmer Mill Road, Wairakei, Taupo Summer hours: Mon – Sun 10am - 4pm

from Molly N, great pants from Lavish, tops from Hilary, a belt and sweater from Kilt, and sunglasses for my son from Urban Edge made the cut. After a couple of small purchases from The Replete Shop we were seriously apprehensive about whether or not our bags would zip. A superb meal prepared by the dynamic and friendly staff at Dixie Browns capped the day off beautifully.

The Thermal Explorer Highway was an unexpected treat on our way to Wai-O-Tapu. The consistent signs of geothermal energy bubbling under the farmland and forests fascinated us.

The structure, history, and upkeep of

the trails and maps surrounding these “sacred waters” are impressive. The names given to the mud sinks and geysers illicit sinister images fitting with the heavy stench of sulphur.

If Taupo doffs his hat at your arrival, he will be buying you flowers at your departure. Our non-adventure holiday to Taupo was a tremendous success.

We were not looking for an adrenaline buzz. We were looking to walk away from a hectic pace and absorb calm.

We found a magical destination filled with friendly, sincere people, and we are planning a return trip. Taupo charmed us; we’re looking forward to being thrilled. GTNZ

Stunning new Bar & Eatery with real food, great coffee and awesome company. “Discover us” in Mangakino, “heart of the dam country”, South Waikato. MUST try dishes; Seafood platter, the “hut” steak, and famous venison pies!

Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner 7 Days

Huka Falls

P: 07 882 8866

Shop 1, 71 Rangatira Drive, Mangakino, South Waikato. 3421

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

65

Rotorua

Rotorua

Golfing Heaven

Planning your holiday around golf? You could not do better than New Zealand. We boast a moderate climate, beautiful landscapes and world-class golf courses. There are fifty courses around Rotorua, Tauranga, Mt Maunganui and Taupo, with landscapes ranging from geothermal activity to harbours, lakes and mountain ranges.

66

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Whether you are a serious golfer or more interested in getting outside and taking in the scenery, the best of all we have on offer is to be found in Rotorua. This very special place is world famous for its beautiful lakes and geothermal activity. Make your own lasting memories by enjoying golf in this unique park of the world.

M

y wife and I thrive on the challenge of Rotorua’s Arikikapakapa Golf Course where if a shot goes wrong, balls can disappear in boiling mud pools, or down geothermal steam vents; making it a course like no other in the country.

Followed by hydrotherapy recovery at the world renowned Polynesian Spa – it’s the perfect morning and afternoon combo.

The Rotorua Golf Club’s natural backdrop is the Arikikapakapa Reserve, (Arikikapakapa means the gentle sound of plopping mud) a spectacular geothermal park comprising of thermal lakes, mud pools and lush native bush.

The pumice ground of this course also allows for rapid drainage after rain, so it means that regardless of the weather, the golf is still on.

Arikikapakapa is a full 18 hole, par 70 all-weather links-style course providing

Spa time

Did you know?

Nickname NZ’s ‘coolest hot spot’ Population - 68, 900 Area - 2, 615 km2 Main reason to visit Geothermal activity and Maori Cultures Top attraction Geothermal Parks Fun fact - The region has 17 lakes, known collectively as the Lakes of Rotorua. Fishing, waterskiing, cruising, swimming, kayaking, and other water activities abound. good variety and challenge and with a variety of features worthy of mention that make this course particularly special.

Teeing off, we find the start of the course similar to others, but things get noticeably different when we make it to the 9th hole, where to the left of the green, mud pools and steam are to be avoided along with a sulphur mound to the right.

The ninth has featured on a New Zealand postage stamp and golf writers from around the world have written about it – the punishment for missing the green is ruthless!

A monster of a geothermal crater guards the left of the spectacular 14th hole – descent into which is not advised.

Welcome to Rotorua Golf Club (Inc) "Arikikapakapa" Enjoy playing a unique thermal golf course in the heart of New Zealand's premier visitor destination.

- All-weather, inland links-style course with easy walking and excellent layout.

- Close to major hotels & motels - Opposite Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve & NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute - Fully licensed bar & restaurant Visitors welcome.

Fenton Street, Rotorua.

Tel +64 7 348 4051

www.rotoruagolfclub.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

67

Holes number 14, 15 and 16 are played alongside a lake, and apart from the added danger of water, the sight on a chilly winter’s morning of steam rising from the lake is something to behold. There is absolutely no substitute for accuracy on these three holes, known as “Amen Corner” by locals, where so many matches are won or lost by the smallest of errors - they are classic risk and reward holes, so we have to keep really focused.

Holes 3, 4 and 5 play across a warm water stream which has claimed many of our golf balls, reinforcing that accuracy is much more important than length on most holes of this course.

“MY WIFE AND I LIKE TO BOOK AN AIX SPA THERAPY THAT BEGINS WITH AN HOUR LONG SOAK IN THE DELUXE LAKE SPA POOLS WITH THEIR STUNNING VIEW OVER LAKE ROTORUA. Every golfer has a favourite hole, and the 18th is ours from the incredible views across to the Whakarewarewa geothermal reserve and the forest beyond, to the devilishly tricky second shot between two big trees to the wellguarded green.

The most feared hole in many minds is the bunker-less fifth; out of bounds down the right, a monster tree on the left and a bubbling steaming creek just in front of the tee calling for good straight shots. The shallow green is easier to hold for your second with a wedge in your hand, than with a 5 iron so it’s a good test of nerves too.

The course is an easy walking course with good paths, and the pro shop has golf carts for hire if you prefer, indeed the pro shop can help you with all your golfing rental equipment. You will be well looked after and find that any golfing need you may have is met by the friendly, helpful and knowledgeable staff. With demo clubs available you can have the convenience of trying a type of club before buying. The Pro Shop offers a fast and efficient service in all areas from club repairs to re-spiking shoes and is also the place to go if you want to hire a set of clubs, or pull trolley. Need some advice? Go see the Pro Shop team!

If you decide that your holiday is the ideal time for that golf lesson you have always wanted, book in with Rotorua’s PGA qualified teaching professional Anthony Barkley. Anthony is dedicated to helping you get the most out of your game. His relaxed and easy-going manner will put you immediately at ease.

Maybe it’s a result of the thermal nature of the area that the welcome offered in Rotorua is so warm. Come and see why one round here is never enough and will leave you wanting to come back for more. You will make lasting memories playing here. With four tees on each hole catering for different levels of skill this 18-hole linksstyle course has something for every golfer. A visit to 68

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Arikikapakapa links will prove to be one of the highlights of your trip.

Although the golf course is an easy walking course with good paths, by the 18th hole, we’re always ready for some relaxation at the Polynesian Spa where the geothermal activity is rewarding rather than punishing.

My wife and I like to book an Aix Spa therapy that begins with an hour long soak in the Deluxe Lake Spa pools with their stunning view over Lake Rotorua.

There is a mix of both acidic pools (great for muscle recovery) and alkaline (beneficial for skin and nails). Here is where our recovery gets underway…

Five minutes in the 40-degree acidic pool and then 30 seconds in the icecold plunge pool! The initial shock is freezing, but afterwards jumping back in the acidic pool feels amazing… till another five minutes pass and then boom, back into the plunge pool. We repeat this three times and then let ourselves relax for the final 30 minutes, before our spa therapy.

We find hot and cold hydrotherapy means our bodies aren’t sore at all afterwards as the extremes of hot and

cold water cause muscles to expand and contract, squeezing out any toxins. It also improves circulation and increases the body’s immunity.

Aix therapy combines jets of warm water with a relaxation massage to rejuvenate and revitalise the mind and body. The Aix massage feels like a hundred little fingers are massaging your body, and the masseuse knows exactly where to add pressure. The warm water makes your body feel like every limb has full attention; we both come out feeling just incredible.

It’s the ultimate trip away which really can’t be experienced anywhere else – avoiding and cursing the

It’s all on Crankworx Mountain Bike Festival – March 25 - 29 Creative Fibre National Festival – April 10 Soundshell Market - Saturdays More info: www.rotoruanz.com geothermal wonders on the uniquely beautiful Rotorua Golf Course during the morning and then immersing ourselves in the wonder of the geothermal waters in the afternoon to chill out. Unbeatable really. GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

69

Eastland

Eastland

First Sunrise in the World

70

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

We usually go to Gisborne with the kids for the summer. They are epic holidays with some of the best weather in the land and a healthy helping of beautiful white sandy surf beaches that aren’t swamped with people.

S

o we were excited to be heading down there outside of the high season for a long weekend last April, with the inspiration to visit New Zealand’s National Arboretum - Eastwoodhill.

Eastwoodhill Arboretum was established by local farmer Douglas Cook over one hundred years ago.

By all accounts Cook was seen by the locals as being an eccentric sort of fellow, coming back from WWI disillusioned with mankind and the carnage they were inflicting on each other - not to mention the trees and natural environment which was being decimated across Europe.

“EASTWOODHILL IS A STUNNING PLACE TO VISIT IN AUTUMN WHEN THE LEAVES ARE CHANGING COLOUR. WE WENT ON THE OPEN BACKED JEEP TOUR, WHICH WAS AN ABSOLUTE HOOT AND SO MUCH MORE FUN THAN I HAD IMAGINED.

Cook Statue, Gisborne

He purchased a property at Ngatapa 34.5 km from Gisborne, which is pretty remote nowadays, and even more so back then, and started importing trees from all over the world with the aim of saving the tree populations of the world.

With 135 hectares of established gardens - much of it consisting of northern hemisphere species Eastwoodhill is a globally significant genetic library with many of those species now on the endangered list. Many trees are now more than 100 years old and are magnificent specimens thanks to a dedicated army of largely volunteer gardeners.

Eastwoodhill is a stunning place

Did you know?

Nickname - Gizzy Population - 43,653 Area - 8,386km2 Main reason to visit - Surf Beaches Top attraction - Rhythm and Vines festival Fun fact - First place in New Zealand to see the sunrise to visit in Autumn when the leaves are changing colour. We went on the open backed jeep tour, which was an absolute hoot and so much more

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

71

fun than I had imagined. Our guide Peter, a retired high country sheep farmer, drove us around the arboretum telling us about the trees and the development of the property. I was amazed at the different species, with trees from such far flung places such as Tibet and Iraq.

“WE DID GET UP TO SEE THE FIRST SUNRISE IN THE WORLD, EASIER AT THIS TIME OF THE YEAR, WITH THE SUN RISING AT THE MORE CIVILISED TIME OF 6.45AM. He also regaled us with the funny tales of the infamous founder. One in particular that we found amusing was that Cook would do the gardening naked, apart from a hat and one gumboot, which he wore on the foot he used for the spade!

Douglas Cook was a pioneering ecowarrior and super-conservator, long before those terms had been coined.

Smash Palace

72

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Waikanae Beach

He set out to save the tree populations of the world, a lofty ideal, but one that he actually achieved.

He has left a lasting legacy, a national treasure, and one of the most beautiful gardens I’ve visited in New Zealand.

Now that we weren’t spending every moment in summer time pursuits, and we’d left the kids at home, we had time to see another side of this lovely wee surf town.

The live music scene in Gisborne surprised me. We were there for the first Tuesday of the month when the Poverty Bay Blues Club holds their monthly jam. Held in the Dome Room at the Poverty Bay Club, the venue alone was worth the visit. A former gentlemen’s club now converted into café, bar and live music venue it is uber cool, the retro décor making the most of its late 1800 architecture. There is live music every Friday night with a resident band (called “The Residents”) playing lounge funk, as cool as any big city establishment I’ve been to.

Five bands for five bucks at Smash Palace seemed like too good an opportunity to pass up. The five local acts played mostly original music, ranging from the brass delights of reggae/dub band Soul Society, new wave inspired storytelling of Kings of Kaiaua and the guitar acrobatics of blues rock band The Broken Stone.

Smash Palace is an epic venue. It’s like being in a bar in a second hand shop or wreckers yard.

There are two restored Morris Minors up on poles at the entrance, a DC3 suspended above the garden bar and a huge amount of memorabilia including old traffic signs, cash registers and retro nick nacks of all kinds on every available wall, shelf and spot on the ceiling.

Discover the finest of walking tracks and spectacular scenery at New Zealand’s national arboretum.

Eastwoodhill offers over 25km of graded and marked walking tracks set amongst 3500 exotic and rare trees, shrubs and climbers.

Self-contained campervan sites, guided tours, catering and much more.

“A nature lover’s paradise” “This place is truly amazing” “A must see in autumn” Gisborne Wine Centre

Eastwoodhill Arboretum – National Arboretum of New Zealand 2392 Wharekopae Road, Gisborne, New Zealand Open daily from 9am to 5pm Phone: +64 6 863 9003 | Email: enquires@eastwoodhill.org.nz

www.eastwoodhill.org.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

73

We spent a good deal of our time in the eating and dining precinct in the Inner Harbour. Nestled in amongst the bars and restaurants is the Gisborne Wine Centre. As the regional cellar door for the Gisborne wine growing region it was the perfect place for us to plan our wine tour of the local cellar doors and do a wine tasting.

It is also a venue for live local music of the acoustic variety and hosts the Gisborne Vinyl Appreciation Society every week, where the flavour is 70s funk and soul.

Gisborne is lucky enough to occupy a beautiful and remote part of New Zealand. Its isolation perched out on the most easterly edge of the country has shaped the town and its charming coastal character and saved it from over development.

It is a compact city and apart from

Eastwoodhill Arboretum

74

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

our visit to Eastwoodhill and the cellar doors we didn’t use our hire car. We picked up the Gisborne Historic Walk brochure at the Gisborne i-SITE, an easy 2 hour walk and fascinating account of New Zealand’s early history. Gisborne is a city rich in history and played a crucial role in the story of Aotearoa/New Zealand’s origins.

It’s where the Maori migratory waka Horouta and Takitimu first landed, and where Captain James Cook made his first New Zealand landfall in 1769.

We ended our historic walk at the Tairawhiti Museum and Art Gallery which is regarded as one of the finest provincial museums in New Zealand showcasing the local history and present day with innovative and creative exhibitions. The newly built Jack C. Richards Decorative Arts Gallery is a special treat, while the

fully restored bridge of the Star of Canada which foundered off Kaiti Beach in 1912 is a surprising adjunct to the museum. Wylie Cottage provides a glimpse into colonial times and the local Arts scene is well represented with a continual series of thought provoking exhibitions. A new addition is the ‘C’ Company of the Maori Battalion Exhibition - a commemorative tribute to these brave men or “Nga tama toa” who served overseas in WWII. We did get up to see the first sunrise in the world, easier at this time of the year, with the sun rising at the more civilised time of 6.45am. The weather was still pretty good. Let’s face it, it is Gisborne - meaning we could still indulge in some long beach walks. All in all, a great long weekend getaway and a good time had by all. GTNZ

“Heading home” by Teneya Te Whata

GISBORNENZ.COM www.gotravelnewzealand.com

75

Whanganui

Wanganui

Whanganui - New Zealand’s Arts Destination

By Sarah Williams

After a visit to Whanganui, I am convinced this idyllic city is living up to its catchy little slogan “Whanganui - New Zealand’s Arts Destination”.

76

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

In 1998 artists Catherine Macdonald and Sue Cooke formed an art event now commonly known as Artists Open Studios; initially just a display of art in spaces dotted along the riverside, in the 16 years of its running Whanganui has seen it grow from a handful of artists to over a hundred artists with 72 Studios spanning the district.

W

hanganui is home to many large and reputable events throughout the year and boasts a thriving arts community and an abundance of historical heritage buildings and attractions. Looking into this particular Artists Open Studio event and chatting with some of the artists involved was the best way for me to not only explore the thriving arts community based here in Whanganui, but also for me to see the city itself. I soon discovered Whanganui is impeccably cared for and incredibly gorgeous to stay in.

It seemed appropriate to visit a

riverside studio first, as I greatly admired the river’s presence in Whanganui’s history, and to be perfectly honest, I was also a little taken by its beauty as I drove over the bridge to enter the CBD. The water was graceful and felt full of life - reflecting the humming community residing alongside.

Vanessa Edwards lives with a water view, and I was pleased to see the life and energy I felt from the river reflected in this young woman’s attitude to her practice here in Whanganui. Teaming up with artist friend Tia Ranginui, both Artists comment on their Maori Heritage (Whakapapa) and personal stories with a fresh and contemporary perspective.

I was presented with a few works on my arrival made by Vanessa and bound for Wellington’s Toi Maori Art Market 2014. The Market is an internationally acclaimed art event involving New Zealand’s most Contemporary & Upcoming Maori Visual Artists. The event is gaining traction and growing bigger every year. Vanessa nurtures her relationships with Maori artists across the whole of New Zealand, and this includes her association with ‘Toi Whakataa Press’ – a Maori

Printmakers Collective working to identify printmaking as a valid Maori artistic expression.

Vanessa explains how her recent works are inspired and influenced by the Maori Creation Story, heavily based on the second stage ‘Te Po’ that refers to form emerging from the darkness. Vanessa admits to an obsession with ‘Te Po’ and indicates her work will remain around the same theme and aesthetic for the Artists Open Studios weekends. She shared with me some exciting collaborative ideas in the pipeline between herself

“VANESSA EDWARDS LIVES WITH A WATER VIEW, AND I WAS PLEASED TO SEE THE LIFE AND ENERGY I FELT FROM THE RIVER REFLECTED IN THIS YOUNG WOMAN’S ATTITUDE TO HER PRACTICE HERE IN WHANGANUI. and guest artist and photographer Tia Ranginui. Vanessa also hopes to collaborate with some male artists before the event to bring a male mark

Steel art

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

77

to her distinctly feminine works.

Emerging from the darkness of the black ink that dominates these detailed prints, I see Vanessa’s self-portrait. It may be an image of one woman, but it feels all-encompassing and reflective of the many layers of all women that have gone before me - the prints are mesmerizing.

Not only does the Artists Open Studios event include media such as printmaking, similar to what I saw in Vanessa’s Studio, but also many other media such as sculpture, painting, photography, drawing, jewellery and ceramics. As if that wasn’t enough this year the event is joining forces with another popular arts event the Glass Festival.

“CARMEN ENJOYS HER DISTINCTIVELY KIWI RURAL HOME/STUDIO SET-UP. I APPRECIATED THE INTIMACY OF THE COMBINED HOME AND STUDIO; I COULD TRULY SEE HOW INTERTWINED THIS ARTIST’S LIFE IS WITH HER WORK. I thought it was imperative that I check out a glass artist and see what it’s like living and working in this world famous glass art city. Along with Katie Brown and Lyndsay Patterson’s popular Chronicle Glass Studio, I thought I might indulge in a visit to a private glass studio of someone a little further afield.

Travelling north to Carmen Simmond’s studio I was transported to a place of serenity and calm; rolling bush clad hills, make for a very relaxing drive. Carmen relocated her studio approximately six years ago when she moved from her central city studio to a rural setting in Brunswick on the fringe of Whanganui.

Carmen enjoys her distinctively kiwi rural home/studio set-up. I appreciated the intimacy of the combined home and studio; I could truly see how intertwined this artist’s life is with her work.

Carmen works primarily in Glass and 78

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Mixed Media and her creative process is inspired by National and International craft, fashion, design and art which I could instantly see in her cast dresses and the crochet detailing which is a feature she has become known for as a glass artist.

Most exciting are her upcoming plans to take part in the International GAS Conference in Corning New York in 2016 as part of the Glass Fashion Show. From small town New Zealand to the international stage Whanganui has a special place on the world stage when it comes to glass art.

Carmen spends a great part of her year hosting glass workshops that enable her to practice full-time as a glass artist. Attendees travel from all around the country to stay with Carmen in this idyllic country home/ studio and learn the art of cast glass.

I found myself wondering about New Zealand’s Art Destination and these claims of a burgeoning and thriving arts community. It seems that Whanganui punches well above its weight with around 400 resident artists, heritage galore and a beautiful river flowing life and energy into the city.

Did you know?

Population - 43, 400 Area - 2,373 km2 Main reason to visit Arts, culture and heritage Top attraction Whanganui River Fun fact - Whanganui River is NZ’s longest navigable waterway I would highly recommend getting yourself to the Artists Open Studios Event opening on the 20th March where participating artists will open their studios each day on the 21st, 22nd, 28th & 29th March. I can see that the intimacy, sincerity and openness required of the artists participating in this event would be of great appeal for those visiting, I might even go as far to say that this may well be where the uniqueness of an event such as this lies.

For more information on the Artists Open Studios event and other additional Glass Festival events, please visit www.openstudios.co.nz GTNZ

Enjoy arts, music, the landscape and our rich heritage.

Whanganui is big enough to entertain and small enough to keep it real.

Spend a weekend.

TAKE A

NEW LOOK

For more information:

whanganuinz.com

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

79

Nelson

Nelson Tasman

Fishing and Adventure at an Award Winning Lodge

by Tony Orman

Stonefly Lodge, an eco-sensitive yet stylish building, overlooks a panorama of hills and a crystal clear trout river with a backdrop of high hills rising to a glimpse of an alpine mountain.

Proprietors John and Kate Kerr found the site several years ago, and were enthralled.

80

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

“Kate and I just couldn’t resist it, when we first saw it,” smiles John Kerr. “Look at it!” John and Kate came from a strong sport fishing background, with nine years spent running the Cape Don Fishing Lodge in Northern Territory where 21 species of saltwater fish made for a saltwater sport fishing paradise.

B

ut nine years of tropical heat in Arnhem Land demanded a change to a cooler climate.

The couple headed to New Zealand and chanced on a forested site overlooking the Motueka River.

The Motueka River is one of New Zealand’s finest brown trout rivers.

The local Fish and Game council says is has very high numbers of trout. Yet while the river and its surging, swirling rapids and languid pools will make a trout fishers pulse quicken there’s so much more in terms of outdoors and local culture to explore within a radius of a day’s travel from the lodge.

The adventures and activities within easy reach was a major reason why Australians John and Kate chose the site, set in the Nelson region’s Motueka valley in the northwest corner of New Zealand’s South Island.

Just 45 minutes’ drive away, down the valley near to where the Motueka River empties into Tasman Bay, is the Abel Tasman National Park. One full day activity involves a laid back drive down the verdant valley to take a boat cruise, hike forest trails around golden sandy bays lapped by the stunningly clear sea, and then enjoy a sumptuous lunch with fine local wine. Another is to hire a helicopter and fly to a secluded beach. Or cruise aboard a catamaran and kayak the forest fringed bays or even swim with seals.

Helicopter flights are a favourite of guests. Stonefly Lodge’s helipad is the closest to the Kahurangi National Park which embraces Mounts Owen and Arthur plus other peaks. A number of trips taken are into the pristine trout rivers within the park, a specialty of the lodge. Trout average a healthy 2kg plus and sometimes nudge the weight measure to the magical “double figure” of 10lbs (4.2kg).

“The close proximity to Kahurangi National Park means affordability is heightened and thus so is the availability of unique experiences to more guest.” Says John.

Nelson Lakes National Park is another alpine playground just an hour’s drive to the south. There, a water taxi can be taken to the head of the elongated glacial lake overlooked by forested slopes rising to towering

alpine arêtes and ridges, followed by a few hours to walk a beech forest trail return.

Mt Arthur is another favourite hike for fitter guests. A 20 minute drive and then a two to three hour gradual climb to the summit gives a stunning view of layer upon layer of mountain ridges retreating into the distance. Guides are available, and usually advisable.

“ONE FULL DAY ACTIVITY INVOLVES A LAID BACK DRIVE DOWN THE VERDANT VALLEY TO TAKE A BOAT CRUISE, HIKE FOREST TRAILS AROUND GOLDEN SANDY BAYS LAPPED

BY THE STUNNINGLY CLEAR SEA, AND THEN ENJOY A SUMPTUOUS LUNCH WITH FINE LOCAL WINE Or how about white water rafting on the Buller River? Perhaps a helicopter trip to Golden Bay and then the beach drive to the South Island’s extremity of historic Farewell Spit that bid adieu to 18th century mariner-explorer Captain Cook? Or take the short walk to beautiful and intriguing Wharariki Beach, one of the region’s hidden

Riverside fishing

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

81

gems and a photographer’s paradise.

More leisurely is a drive visiting some of the 23 wineries within an hour of the lodge, or a tour of local artisans who paint, make pottery, turn wood and blow glass. Four golf courses, mostly nine-holes, are within an hour’s drive, one being just 20 minutes away.

Those activities and adventures aside, Stonefly Lodge in its own right is a worthwhile experience, as evidenced by visitor comments. One avid trout fly fisherman from Maine USA said, “I came for the fishing, but the lodge turned out to be the real catch.”

The lodge has been designed to be self-sufficient in power, with electricity supplied on site by microhydro generation, a wind turbine and

solar panels totally independent of the national grid. “It’s a great feeling to know that the water, wind and sun are working to keep our property functioning,” says John.

Central heating is provided with a log burner. All waste water is treated on site by a multi award winning “Biolytix” system which reduces waste to a quality fit for watering the garden. Twenty four fruit trees, a biodynamic garden and poultry for eggs

It’s all on Marchfest – March 21 Mapua Easter Fair – April 20 Rainbow Rage – March 21 More info: www.nelsonnz.com

For that very special occasion Stalking, and sight casting to large wild brown trout in crystal clear waters. Award winning luxury lodge surrounded by 3 National parks and dozens of rivers & streams. Heli-fishing into remote pristine wilderness a specialty.

Luxury riverfront accommodation close to 3 spectacular National Parks, a short drive from Nelson.

82

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Abel Tasman Charters

complement locally sourced venison, lamb, beef, fish and scallops.

Indeed, “Stonefly Lodge treads lightly on the environment,” says Kate.

The lodge has a warm feeling, enhanced by Kate’s and John’s combined welcoming personalities.

One USA couple said it was, “Like staying with old friends who do everything for you!” Or as one Texan couple put it, “Service from the heart.

Five Star. Food and fishing over the top.”

The lodge has an intimate, warm charm with just four double bedrooms, giving a cosy, friendly character and atmosphere.

The menu is a blend of international cuisines, as chef New Zealander Dean Sincock has worked in Russia, the UK, Europe and the USA. Kate says the menu has a trend of Kiwi with a French influence.

And the fishing! The Motueka River, visible from every window in the lodge, is rated as one of the best of New Zealand’s brown trout fly fishing rivers. It is just one of several rivers nearby. A few kilometres upstream, the Wangapeka River, in its own right a very fine trout river, joins the Motueka.

And go downstream a few kilometres and the Baton River chimes in. A mere 15 to 20 minutes’ helicopter flight whisks you into the pristine, wilderness headwaters of the Karamea River and its major tributaries the Leslie and Crow.

“We’re right in the middle of some very fine trout fishing,” says John.

Nor do you have to be an accomplished and experienced fly

fisher to enjoy the area’s offerings.

A trout fisher’s beginner’s package of three days culminating in a day’s guided fishing caters for new chums.

And success, white not guaranteed, is always a good possibility. One Australian couple caught seven big brawny trout on their third day of the beginner’s package.

Rates from $550 a night per person compare exceptionally well within the luxury lodge category in New Zealand.

Stonefly Lodge is rated in the top 10 eco-lodges for Australia and New Zealand and recently was accepted into the book “Luxury Lodges of New Zealand.”

Ninety per cent of guests are international, and on average are in the 50 to 60 year bracket. Some are younger, some older. One 89 year old had the time of his life, catching five brown trout all over 5 pounds (2.3kg) with the biggest a hefty 7 (3.2kg) pounder.

Kate & John feel they have found their niche – a place to live, to welcome guests and enjoy life. “This is about lifestyle. This is our home,” says Kate.

Footnote: Tony Orman is the author of over 20 outdoor books, many to do with trout fishing.

For more information on Stonefly Lodge, visit www.stoneflylodge.co.nz GTNZ

Did you know?

Maori Name - Whakatu Population - 46, 200 Area - 9, 771 km2 Main reason to visit - Arts/craft and Marine Park Top attraction - Abel Tasman National Park Fun fact - Nelson is second oldest settled city in NZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

83

Marlborough

Marlborough

Marvellous Marlborough

By Peter Forbes Smith

84

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

I discovered the Pelorus Mail Boat and their amazing little cruise by accident while chatting to some travellers on the ferry. They told me that it was a “must do” and the best thing they’d done in New Zealand.

Quite a recommendation but having now done it I must say it is a little gem and would certainly put it right at the top of my list too. It is completely unique, it’s quirky and it is not a big tourist venture.

T

he Mail Run commences in the beautiful port town of Havelock nestled in the hills at the start of the Pelorus Sound (the biggest and most remote of the four sounds that make up the Marlborough Sounds). Havelock is a great little spot to base yourself for your exploration of the top of the South Island. Central to the Marlborough and Nelson & Abel Tasman regions, it has all you need with a great range of accommodation and restaurants, lovely little walks and a friendly atmosphere.

I met Jim, the owner and skipper

Handing over mail from Pelorus

along with a group of other tourists eager to join the run, at his little office at Havelock Marina. He explains that it is a genuine New Zealand Post Royal Mail Delivery Service and we will be delivering mail, groceries and supplies to the remote homes dotted around the meandering coastline. They have three different routes to cover the huge

area of the Pelorus Sound, visiting each family once a week.

We depart the marina bang on schedule at 9.30 and set off on our rounds. I have chosen the Thursday route as a visit to the only Australasian Gannet Colony in the Marlborough Sounds is on this route. We arrive at our first delivery point a little over half

The Pelorus Mail Boat

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

85

an hour into the cruise and there is a whole welcoming party of residents waiting at the jetty all with huge smiles.

It is obviously a highlight of their week; Jim gently manoeuvers the boat to allow his assistant, Bindy, to hand over the six mail bags and various boxes of groceries that they are waiting on.

Six outgoing bags are received in exchange which hold any mail to be sent. A quick catch up of news and a social exchange takes place and we head off to our next delivery point. Jim explains that generating an income out in this remote region is very hard today and the people have become pretty self-sufficient and ingenious. Most of his customers have made micro hydroelectric schemes from rewired washing machine motors. On the way to our next delivery we stop at one of the many Greenshell Mussel Farms in the area and Jim explains the whole mussel farming process - this environmentally friendly industry is now one of the biggest employers in the area.

We cruise in and out of many secluded bays delivering as we go and saying hello to the hardy residents that live in each one. Jim tells us that not all of them have a boat and that those without often use the mail boat to get in to Havelock should they need to.

One of the delivery points on this run doesn’t have a jetty and Jim has to carefully put the bow of the boat on to the beach and Bindy reaches out with the mail bag to the resident who has come out in his gumboots to collect

the mail. Graham was a pioneer in the mussel industry but never felt the need to build a wharf of any sort. Jim smiles when he says that Graham regularly gets his gumboots filled with water from the boat wake.

“WE STOP AT ONE OF THE MANY GREENSHELL MUSSEL FARMS IN THE AREA AND JIM EXPLAINS THE WHOLE MUSSEL FARMING PROCESS - THIS ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY INDUSTRY IS NOW ONE OF THE BIGGEST EMPLOYERS IN THE AREA.” We stop off at the Gannet colony where we have the added bonus of seeing a number of fluffy grey Gannet chicks and later in the cruise we see a number of Gannets diving at speed into the water to catch fish; so close you feel you could touch them. We also get to see Little Blue Penguins and New Zealand Fur Seals but no dolphins on today’s run. Jim explains that he sees dolphins on about half the trips in the

It’s all on Havelock Mussel Festival March 14 Forrest GrapeRide – March 28 Classic Fighters Omaka Airshow – April 3 - 5 More info: www.marlboroughnz.com

Email: bookings@themailboat.co.nz www.themailboat.co.nz NZ PH: 03 574 1088 International: +64 3 574 1088 86

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

summer but pretty much every day through autumn, winter and spring, “Why not in summer?” I ask, “Orca” he says, “they come searching for sting rays and the dolphins aren’t so keen when the Orca are around.”

The highlight of the trip and the stand out difference of the Pelorus Mail Boat cruise is its real-ness. You get to meet the people that live in this remote area and hear stories of their life, how they survive with no roads, electricity, shops or cell phone reception. Also the connection that Jim has with the people is clear and how the service is essential to their existence in the sounds. This is a true kiwi experience and not just for tourists, although without the tourists coming along for a cruise in the summer the service would struggle to survive through the winter.

Jim’s eyes light up when I ask him about the winter weather. He says it’s his favourite time with calm conditions, water like glass and lots of wildlife and dolphins around, the area, he says with delight, is picture postcard perfect.

The commentary throughout the cruise is fun and very informative with

all sorts of stories and anecdotes. Jim has obviously done huge amounts of research and is he happy to share it during the cruise, and is full of enthusiasm for the area. He has also put an amazing collection of books and folders on board for browsing.

As I was told “A must do” in New Zealand. GTNZ

Did you know?

Population - 45, 600 Area - 12, 484 km2 Main reason to visit 36 wineries with cellar doors for sampling Top attraction - Marlborough Sounds Fun fact - 75% of NZ wine produced in Marlborough

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

87

Kaikoura

Kaikoura

Kaikoura What Lies Beneath Everything from whales and dolphins to penguins, seals and crayfish thrive in the unique underwater environment off this marine wildlife hotspot.

88

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

THE WHITE MORPH

H

If you happen to visit Kaikoura between April and October you’ll be in the right place to witness a rare spectacle: New Zealand fur seal pups frolicking in a fresh-water pool beneath a waterfall tumbling out of the bush.

T

he seal “crèche” is a 10-minute walk beside a stream off the main State Highway 1 at Ohau Point, 27km north of Kaikoura town. The pups, mostly born in November, somehow know to make the trip from the seashore, across the road and up the stream to the pool while their mothers are at sea looking for food, occasionally returning to shore to feed their babies.

As far as we know, no one has ever spotted an adult seal at the nursery pool, where the pups play, grow and practice essential “seal stuff” like swimming and socialising, building muscle and avoiding predators. Like children, they learn life skills through play – chasing each other, diving and leaping, playing with sticks –and endearing themselves to us and the thousands of other visitors who now make the short trek from the road to be charmed and delighted.

The pups will stay at the pool for

days and then make their way back to mum for a feed before returning to their bush playground. When winter is over they return to the sea for good, to learn how to hunt and survive alone. How do the little ones know to haul themselves up the steep, rocky stream to the pool without parental guidance? It’s a mystery, but a pleasant one.

So popular has the little bush pool become that last year the Government created the Ohau Point Fur Seal Sanctuary so public access could be controlled “to protect what has become an internationally recognised tourism destination”.

Fur seals, which are common all along this coast (with large colonies at Ohau Point and the Kaikoura Peninsula), are among a host of marine mammals and other sea life that call the waters around Kaikoura home, most famously the mighty sperm whale and dusky dolphin. Orca (killer whales) often visit these waters and humpback whales pass through on their winter migration north. Other whale species visit from time to time and you’ll sometimes come across small groups of little Hector’s dolphins.

Paua (abalone), kina and crayfish (rock lobster) make their home in the rocky reefs that reach out into the ocean from Kaikoura; in fact it’s the crayfish – koura in Maori – that gave Kaikoura its name. Coastal fish species

Luxury

Accommodation

Seal pup

Waterfront Location 5 Star Premium Spa Studios 4 Star Deluxe, Family and Garden Studios Adjacent to Cinema & Dolphin Encounter 10 minutes walk to shops & restaurants

Reservation & Enquires Free Phone • 0800 803 666 Phone • +64 3 319 5014 Fax • +64 3 319 5015 Email • info@whitemorph.co.nz Web • www.whitemorph.co.nz

92 Esplanade, Kaikoura www.gotravelnewzealand.com

89

include butterfish, blue cod, tarakihi, marblefish, blue and red moki, sea perch, and several species of wrasse and triplefin, while hapuku, tarakihi, ling, hoki, lantern fish and various sharks, rays, skates and squid live in deeper waters.

And the waters here get very deep very quickly thanks to the Kaikoura Canyon. The submarine canyon is

1,000 metres deep; a side branch of a mighty trench that runs for thousands of kilometres up New Zealand’s east coast and beyond. The canyon is an underwater larder bursting with food for whales, dolphins and other large marine mammals and fish. Small rivers and streams carry nutrients down into the sea from the surrounding mountains, while two different water

masses come together off Kaikoura.

The Southland Current carries cold water from the Southern Ocean and the East Cape Current brings warm water from the subtropics. This clash and blending of currents adds to the nutrient-rich environment in which sea creatures thrive.

No wonder the waters off Kaikoura have been called “the most biologically rich ocean environment in the world”.

So unique is Kaikoura’s marine ecosystem that last year Conservation Minister Nick Smith announced vast new reserves and sanctuaries “to conserve Kaikoura’s whales, dolphins, seals, albatrosses, rock lobster, shellfish and finfish”. The Kaikoura Whale Sanctuary covers 4,700 square kilometres of ocean, while the 10,000-hectare Hikurangi Marine Reserve, 10km south of Kaikoura, reaches 23km out to sea. So if you’re into fishing or diving for crayfish or paua, you’ll have to do it outside these protected areas.

But the waters off Kaikoura still offer all kinds of possibilities for adventure, some of which we tasted on recent

New Zealand’s Ultimate Year Round Marine Experience

Freephone 0800 655 121 90

www.whalewatch.co.nz

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Did you know?

Maori Name - Te Ahi Kaikoura a Tama ki te Rangi Population - 3,860 Area - 2,046 km2 Main reason to visit Fishing and Sea life Top attraction - Whale watching Fun fact - Hikurangi Trench deepest in New Zealand trips. Out on the blue Whale Watch boat we’d spotted three giant sperm whales.

It’s exciting stuff, seeing these 60-tonne monsters rising from the deep or hauling their mighty tails high into the air as they prepare to dive. Along the way a pod of dusky dolphins had ridden our bow wave and we’d spotted a couple of albatross that, we were told, like to feast on chunks of squid brought to the surface by the whales.

You can get up close and personal with various species of albatross and other seabirds, or swim with dusky dolphins, with Encounter Kaikoura, a

well-run outfit that has its HQ and a very good café just south of the town centre on The Esplanade.

New Zealand fur seals make their home all along this coast and you’re guaranteed to meet some on the Kaikoura Peninsula: they’re easy to spot from the carpark and the pups can get quite inquisitive. We enjoyed a fish-and-chip picnic on the rocks, but resisted one pup’s begging eyes: feeding the seals is a no-no. Seals can actually be quite dangerous on

land, especially during the breeding season, but in the water their fun-loving personalities return and they’ll happily play with wet-suited humans, as I discovered recently on a Seal Swim Kaikoura outing. The company supplies everything including snorkelling gear and cosy 5mm wetsuits. A magical experience.

There’s a whole world of salty goings-on beneath the waves – and Kaikoura folk seem more than happy to share the fun. GTNZ

Whale Watch boats

TM

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

91

West Coast

West Coast

The Flight of a life time

by Sam Mackworth

92

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

In the bustling glacier country town of Franz Josef on the West Coast I’m about to depart on what I’ve been told will be the flight of a life time. I’m making my way to the Air Safaris town office located in the centre of Franz Josef.

Taking off from the airport we begin by climbing out over the spectacular West Coast, I was immediately awestruck at the contrast between the rich green rainforests of the Westland National Park to one side of our aircraft and the velvet expanse of the Tasman Sea on the other.

Tony describes the rainforests to us as the aircraft purrs its way steadily

higher. After a few minutes the Fox Glacier comes into view. I saw the glacier just a couple of days ago when we walked to the bottom of it but seeing it from the air is something else altogether. Only now can I appreciate the true scale and beauty of this enormous “river of ice” sliding down its giant glacial valley. We look right up into the neve of the glacier, the collection

M

eeting the ground team in the office in town is a pleasure in itself; Steve and Christine know so much about the area and happily share their knowledge with me. They give me a short brief about the 50 minute flight around the Westland and Mt Cook National Parks and the many sights we will see.

After checking in, I make my way to the airport, about a 7km drive out of the township. Here I’m greeted by our pilot, Tony, whose engaging personality immediately excites the group. Tony introduces us to our aircraft, an eight seat Gippsland Airvan, gives us a safety brief and we climb on board.

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

93

point of the area’s snowfall, where snow compacts into ice before sliding down the valley below; it’s breathtaking.

“WE CONTINUE NORTH UP THE MURCHISON GLACIER TO THE NORTHERN CORNER OF THE MT COOK NATIONAL PARK, LOOKING BACK ACROSS WHAT MUST BE SOME OF THE HARSHEST YET MOST INSPIRING COUNTRY IN NEW ZEALAND. We continue climbing. Tony points out to us that the mountain at the top of the Fox Glacier is Mt Tasman, New Zealand’s second highest (which we hadn’t seen from the ground). Then it comes into view: Mt Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain, all 12,218 feet of it. I can feel the excitement start to build as Tony takes us right up close to the mountain. I feel as though I could

Mt Cook & Tasman

94

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

reach out and touch it but Tony assures us we’re still over a kilometre away from the mountain face. Even though we all have window seats, he makes a big wide sweeping turn to put Mt Cook on both sides of the aeroplane. Taking a moment to look around, I notice another big glacier in the valley below us and Tony points out the Mt Cook village.

We continue round to the eastern

side of Mt Cook where the full extent of the Tasman Glacier comes into view.

We’ve now crossed into the southern corner of the Mt Cook National Park.

Through Tony’s commentary we learn the Tasman is New Zealand’s longest glacier at 29km long. As with New Zealand’s second largest glacier, the Murchison, they’re far more remote than the Fox and Franz Josef glaciers which I’ve hiked to over the last couple

of days. Seeing them from the air makes them far more accessible and gives me a truer perspective of just how phenomenal these creations of nature really are. The steady movement of the glacial ice down the valley creates patterns of crevasses and streaks of rock scoured away from the adjacent mountains – vistas only appreciable from the air. The Tasman glacier culminates in a “Glacial Terminal

Lake�. Tony points out some icebergs in the lake, some of which can be as large as a football field, of which only ten percent is visible above the water.

In the distance is Lake Pukaki and it becomes clear how the valley system with the Murchison and Tasman glaciers feed the lake through a huge, braided Tasman River.

We continue north up the Murchison Glacier to the northern corner of the

Lake Matheson

Otira

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

95

Mt Cook National Park, looking back across what must be some of the harshest yet most inspiring country in New Zealand. After a few more turns to give everyone a good look, Tony now crosses back from the Mount Cook National Park, over the main divide to the Westland National Park, descending down the Franz Josef icefall towards the township. As we cross over the village I pick out our hotel and take a few more snaps of the rainforests. We descend over lush farmland and finish with a very smooth landing by Tony.

The experience takes a while to sink in. These guys really do know the area and have an amazing ability to showcase it. Being up there amongst New Zealand’s highest mountains, and looking down in great detail at such impressive glaciers is an experience not to be missed and one you will not forget.

Punakaiki

SPACES LIMITED, BOOK NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT!

96 www.franzjosefglacier.com Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

It’s all on Kahurangi Music Festival Feb 27 to March 1 Hokitika Wildfoods Festival March 14 www.wildfoods.co.nz

Back in town I catch up again with Steve and Christine who explain to me about the other flights available, including charter flights throughout the South Island and the Milford Sound option, a flight that Tony is able to operate from Franz Josef allowing passengers who are short on time to experience yet another spectacular part of New Zealand without adding an extra day or more to their itinerary. This team is so passionate about what they do and where they do it, they just can’t wait to share it with you. For more info, go to www.airsafaris.co.nz GTNZ

Did you know?

Maori Name - Te Tai Poutini Population - 32, 800 Area - 23, 276 km2 Main reason to visit The Glaciers Top attraction Franz Josef Glacier Fun fact - One of the only places in the world that rainforests meets glaciers

“With a backdrop of the Southern Alps, Glaciers, rainforest and the ocean, it’s hard to imagine a better place to jump out of a plane than Fox Glacier” The Lonely Planet

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

97

MacKenzie

Mackenzie

Home to the Extremes

Highest Peak, Largest Glacier, Darkest Skies‌

by Robyn South

Many of us have caught the travel bug; planning our next adventure before even clearing airport customs. Why is it then, that so many Kiwis have visited far-flung corners of the world but are yet to truly explore every nook and cranny of our own backyard?

98

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Thinking of how visitors travel from around the globe to marvel at our scenic wonders, I recently determined it was time to appreciate just how lucky I am to have such an environment right on my doorstep.

W

ith newfound resolve, I put my passport away and set forth to explore Aoraki Mount Cook National Park, home to New Zealand’s highest peak, Aoraki Mt Cook. Of course, I was going to need the comfort of a “base camp” from which to contemplate my adventures...

Enter the Hermitage Hotel, nestled within the National Park. A designated World Heritage Area, Aoraki is a wilderness playground surrounded by towering mountainous terrain, glaciers and the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve.

Curled up in an armchair in front of a roaring fire, a glass of pinot noir in hand and watching the sun set over the mighty Aoraki, I feel the tensions

of the week melt away. The biggest challenge I face is deciding whether to toast a marshmallow from the jar conveniently placed on the fireplace mantle or whether that is stretching the intentions of the winemaker’s food match recommendations.

Appointed as the largest gold-rated International Dark Sky Reserve in the world, the Aoraki Mackenzie region has become synonymous with stargazing.

As a New Zealander, it is difficult to comprehend that in many places in the world, stars are not visible at all due to excessive light or air pollution. Another one of the things I have taken for granted! During summer, long daylight hours means it is often late in the evening before the sun has set below the horizon enough for the residual light to fade and the famed dark night sky to prevail. So my Autumn visit has the bonus of allowing an earlier start to the Big Sky Stargazing Tour.

My night sky education begins in the comfort of the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre Planetarium. Warm and cosy seated in the theatre, the 360-degree digital dome lowers over our seats to give us an introduction to

the skies above, and importantly for me, how to identify the Southern Cross constellation. The Southern Cross may feature on our National Flag, but I have always found infinite opportunities to draw multiple crosses between any visible stars – with no idea which of them was the official constellation.

We are transported to the outdoor stargazing site, in an open area of

“A DESIGNATED WORLD HERITAGE AREA, AORAKI IS A WILDERNESS PLAYGROUND SURROUNDED BY TOWERING MOUNTAINOUS TERRAIN, GLACIERS AND THE AORAKI MACKENZIE INTERNATIONAL DARK SKY RESERVE valley situated within the Aoraki Mt Cook National Park that offers a clear view to the horizon and a wide expanse of sky between the surrounding mountains. Putting my new found knowledge into practice, I am delighted

Planetarium

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

99

STARGAZING TOURS OBSERVATORY TOURS ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY TOURS

Home to the

Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve

Let our knowlegeable astronomy guides navigate you around the wonders of our southern sky.

BOOK A TOUR WITH US TODAY:

www.earthandsky.co.nz email: info@earthandsky.co.nz Ph: +64 3 6806 960 LAKE TEKAPO GoNEW Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015 100 ZEALAND

when my stargazing guide uses a laser pointer to confirm that I, for the first time in my life, have correctly identified the Southern Cross! Soon shrieks of astonishment are coming from those taking their turn at the telescopes and astronomy binoculars; Saturn and her rings are apparently clearly visible tonight. Bucket list item: see the Rings of Saturn... Tick!

A competition ensues between the group; who can spot the most ‘shooting stars’? Our guide patiently explains that we are viewing meteors burning up as they enter the atmosphere, but good-naturedly accepts his novice stargazers insistence to ‘wish upon a shooting star’.

Settled back in my Hermitage Hotel room, I decide to leave the curtains open, so I can awaken to the sun touching the top of Aoraki Mt Cook.

Binoculars provided in my room allow a close up view of the hanging glaciers

It’s all on Lake Tekapo NZ Made March 8 Southern Alps Country Music Awards – April 3 – 5 More info: www.southcanterbury.org.nz of blue ice clinging to the side of Mt Sefton as the morning sun cascades down to the valley floor. However, despite my feeling of complete privacy looking out at the towering mountainous terrain, I shortly discover I might have had more company than expected. One of the hotel employees tells me a story of an American guest who had sent a booking request for a return visit, but requested that on this occasion, could he please have a room without a beady-eyed bird looking in?

It turned out the cheeky native Kea, the world’s largest mountain parrot,

had taken up a morning vigil on the windowsill outside his room.

I awoke planning to spend time at the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre

“OUR GUIDE PATIENTLY EXPLAINS THAT WE ARE VIEWING METEORS BURNING UP AS THEY ENTER THE ATMOSPHERE, BUT GOODNATUREDLY ACCEPTS HIS NOVICE STARGAZERS INSISTENCE TO ‘WISH UPON A

Icebergs? Pretty sure I was still in New Zealand and had not been transported to Antarctica overnight.

With great amusement, my helper filled me in on the local Glacier Explorers Tour. As New Zealand’s largest glacier, the Tasman Glacier, slowly retreats, it is forming a terminal lake. Icebergs periodically tear away from the face of the glacier, and I took the opportunity to take a boat ride out for a close up viewing. I was told the guides would try and find icebergs currently stable enough to touch, and potentially I might get to taste a piece of the glacial

Did you know?

Population - 4,320 Area - 7,339 km2 Main reason to visit - Hiking and Cycling Top attraction - Mount Cook Fun fact - Mount Cook is the highest mountain in NZ

ice floating in the lake. Touch and taste an iceberg in my own New Zealand backyard? I may never use that passport again. GTNZ

SHOOTING STAR’ museum. I wanted to learn about the history of the area and Sir Ed who trained at Mt Cook before successfully summiting Everest for the first time with Tenzing Norgay. After my museum visit, I thought I might take a leisurely walk along the Hooker Valley Track; until upon collecting a trail map at the activities desk I was asked if I had seen the icebergs yet!

Alpine restaurant

ROOM RATES & BIG SKY STARGAZING Book via our website prior to May 31st 2015, enter promo code “GoTravel” when prompted.

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

101

Wanaka

Lake Wanaka

Mt Aspiring/Rob Roy track In Love with Rob Justine Tyerman writes of her love affair with a place deep in the Mt Aspiring National Park.

102

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

We have hiked up to Rob Roy Glacier in high summer under a sun-bleached sky, wearing only shorts and T-shirts - grateful for the dappled shade of the beech forest canopy. We’ve trudged up the track in full winter tramping gear as fat snowflakes drift down from a low, slate-grey ceiling - hungry for glimpses of the glacier through wisps of mist and snow flurries. We have even attempted the trek in the rain, when tendril waterfalls join forces to become angry, swollen cataracts ... such is the allure of the glacier.

B

ut our favourite time is when the valley is dressed in silver crystals after a June hoar frost and our boots crunch through stiff white tussock and over concrete moss.

The river is ice-green foam, and the spray freezes on our eyelashes and

brows and transforms bearded men into Santa Clauses. Where the meagre early winter sunshine penetrates the steep-sided gorge, the air sparkles with dazzling diamond filaments, and our breath becomes a visible thing, hanging in little puffy clouds like cartoon speech bubbles.

When our girls and their holiday cousins were little, they believed they were in an enchanted land, and it was easy to keep them skipping and dancing up the steep track, eager to discover what magic lay around the next corner. They half expected to see Aslan and the White Witch.

Icicle swords droop from overhanging rocks as if guarding fairy grottos below and small waterfalls and ponds are frozen in time. Commonplace spider webs and ferns become works of art in silver filigree, demanding that we stop and stare in wonder. But we dare not linger for more than a few minutes for fear of freezing solid like the landscape - or victims of the White Witch.

By early afternoon, the sun is brilliant against a sharp blue sky but there is no warmth where it touches and nothing

thaws. You hear the rushing waters of the Rob Roy stream far below in a deep ravine long before you see the glacier-fed cascade. I listen intently, trying to put the sound into words. It’s the noisy hiss of static as you try to tune your radio, but with an underlying conversational gurgle, burble or chortle - and then a deafening booming roar as the gorge narrows and the water fights to be first through the gap in the rocks.

As we climb higher, the glacier is visible in snatches through the forest canopy and flimsy waterfalls tumble in tiers from the mountain ridges. It becomes a game to trace and time a mass of spray from where it topples over the frozen ledge to the rocks far below. It is impossible to take in the full height of the mountains towering above unless you lie on your back on the ground.

The last part of the track takes us over and around truck-sized boulders carelessly discarded by the glacier as it retreated up the mountain side to its present-day precarious home, clinging to a rock face below Rob Roy Peak.

We are spellbound again as if it were

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

103

our first not seventh or eighth trek to the lookout. Under a heavy mantle of snow, the cold blue gleam of the glacier face is blindingly bright - and mesmerisingly beautiful.

In the spring or summer thaw we are stunned as huge slabs of ice on the terminal face lose the fight against gravity and warming temperatures and thunder down the valley in a white cloud - a fearful sight and awful sound, even from a safe vantage point.

With our Leki hiking sticks, sturdy tramping boots, all-weather Goretex jackets and layers of fine merino and possum, high energy snacks, emergency survival gear and 4WD vehicle waiting at the car park, we modern hikers are as safe and warm and well-prepared as we can be. We reflect back on an expedition made over 100 years ago by English explorer Maud Moreland who ventured up the Matukituki Valley in a horse-drawn dray and climbed up to the glacier in

104

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

It’s all on Highlands Race to the Sky April 17 - 19 Festival of Colour – April 21 – 26 More info: www.lakewanaka.co.nz

a long skirt and heavy leather boots long before the swing bridge was built over the river and a well-formed track cut around the cliff faces, slips and boulders.

In 1908, Maud wrote:”We were now at the entrance of a gorge that looked as if the mountains had been cleft by some terrific force: on one side they rose black and precipitous with trees clinging wherever they could find a little soil but generally they were sheer walls of rock. On our side, the mountains were clothed to within a few hundred feet of the top with dense bush.

Leaving the horses tied below we began a toilsome ascent through a belt of tutu - a stout herb growing as high as our shoulders. This bit was very steep, followed by a belt of fern, then across scree of slate and shale and faces of bare rock with only cracks for footholds where we clung by our fingertips. The heat grew greater every moment, and the glare from the rocks scorched us and made us terribly thirsty as we worked our way from gully to gully.

After a tedious climb, we at last saw the head of the gorge - a wonderful sight on which not many eyes have gazed. It is closed by a semi circle of cliffs, precipitous and black. And wedged as it were between three mountain peaks lies an enormous glacier. Not a long river of ice, but a mighty mass of ice, breaking off sharp at the top of the stupendous peaks.”

Maud gazed at the glacier one summer day over a century ago, as transfixed by the sight as we are today, searching for words to express the exquisite beauty and power of the vision before her. Our efforts seem trivial next to hers.

Knees turn to jelly on the long trek back down to the car, the steep descent made even more treacherous as we walk forwards but look backwards for fear of missing a view we have not seen on the way up. The swing bridge over the Matukituki River seems higher and longer than earlier in the day as I contrive without success to cross it alone without the added excitement of friends (male) providing an extra thrill by making it even “swingier”.

Back at the car park, the temperature is minus three and as we drive back to Wanaka in a cosy car, the fast retreating sun stains the snowy mountain tops pink. We stop at a tiny pebbled beach near Glendu Bay and

Did you know?

Maori Name - Oanaka Population - 7, 170 Area of Lake - 192 km2 Main reason to visit - Outdoor pursuits Top attraction - Mount Aspiring National Park Fun fact - Lake Wanaka sits below sea level watch the shimmering pathway shrink to a sliver and disappear as the winter sun puts on a final dazzling display of crimson fire before sliding behind Mt Aspiring/Tititea. There is silence as we store the memories in a safe place until next time.

The 10km track from the Raspberry Creek car park to the Rob Roy Glacier lookout takes about 3-4 hours return.

The glacier sits below the 2606m Rob Roy Peak named in early times after Scottish hero Rob Roy McGregor.

It is said the figure of McGregor showed on the rock and ice face of the mountain when seen from the Rob Roy Downs opposite the mouth of the stream.

The 50-60 minute, 54km drive from Wanaka to the start of the Rob Roy track is a highlight in its own right. The road skirts Lake Wanaka, passing by iconic Glendu Bay with postcard views of Mt Aspiring and the wispy waterfalls of Treble Cone. It follows the gin-clear Matukituki River up the valley, deep into the Mt Aspiring National Park, part of Te Wahipounamu UNESCO World Heritage site, known to the original Maori inhabitants as Te Wai Pounamu the greenstone waters.

You can drive to the Raspberry Creek carpark and hike to Rob Roy glacier independently or do guided trek including lunch and transport from Wanaka. GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

105

Arrowtown Arrowtown

Born of Gold

Arrowtown’s Autumn Festival

by Louise Graham

My curiosity was piqued when I was invited to attend the Autumn Festival, and I decided to delve into Arrowtown’s rich history. Having had the pleasure of visiting this gorgeous little town many years ago in the summer I was looking forward to seeing Arrowtown in all her splendour in another season.

106

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

History meets nature in Arrowtown where the discovery of gold was the catalyst for enticing people to the region some 150 years ago.

They came in droves, staking their claim with the hope of making their fortune. The Arrowtown of today was certainly “born of gold” with much of her history created by the miners, their families and those who established the supply businesses supporting the township.

W

hile various communities celebrate their attributes in different ways, in historic Arrowtown, it is during Autumn when the leaves in the Arrowtown district turn to gold, that the countdown begins towards its annual Autumn Festival.

The golden hues on the hillsides surrounding the township, and lining its streets form the backdrop to a successful event that today is wellestablished on the event calendar.

Talking to enthusiastic locals I

discovered that the festival was first held 31 years ago; a memorable legacy originating from simple beginnings initiated by a determined group of people. It is clear to me that at the heart of this event is the community and also the history of the surrounding area.

Turn the clock back on the many years since the Festival’s inception, and the townsfolk of Arrowtown will talk proudly of this iconic celebration of Autumn. Today the Festival is enjoyed by an ever increasing number of people - individuals and families, young and old, locals and visitors alike.

The Festival is held over ten actionpacked days, and I was there for the first two. I was excitedly anticipating taking in the local talent, special guests, events activities, and the Grand Parade traditionally held on the first Saturday of the Festival. Current Chairperson, Trish MacKenzie, informed me that the choice of activities and entertainments in recent years numbered over 120 to suit all age groups; I knew I would be spoilt for choice.

The current Arrowtown Autumn Festival dates back to 1985, its historic theme adhered to since then and, although events and

Did you know?

Population - 2,500 Main reason to visit Walking and Gold history Top attraction - Museum Fun fact - $3 Billion worth of gold has been extracted from Otago (today’s equivalent) entertainment have been changed and adapted over time, the underlying aim is to celebrate all that Autumn brings to the district with an extravaganza of cultural and fun activities. Ten days of varied and show-stopping entertainment incorporating dance, music, fashion, art activities, history and the popular Market Day are part of the event every year.

Talking to past chairman Lex Perkins, who stepped into this role in 2005 and has only just ‘retired’, traditions are very much the core of Arrowtown’s festival. The idea of tradition coupled with the importance of embracing the Community remains paramount. The event evolved from a desire to put on a Festival ‘for the people of Arrowtown by the people of

Pint and pie

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

107

Home of the famous Arrowtown Gourmet Pies Offering quality homemade fresh breads, sandwiches, cakes and slices Fantastic Coffee and great value menu and cabinet food available both to takeaway or eat in.

Phone: 03 442 1587 Email: awbakery@xtra.co.nz Open 7 Days

108

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Arrowtown’. Planned on an operating budget of $3500, raised from local businesses all those years ago, its presence today is testimony to a committed group of volunteers who form the committee with the support of a Festival co-ordinator.

While the initial festival covered only a weekend, the event gradually grew in length, size and budget. But while many new events are included in the programme it is important to the current chairperson Trish MacKenzie that many of the tried and true “lovely traditions” remain as the event grows.

The free Senior Citizens afternoon tea of more recent years had its beginnings as a ‘Bake-Off’ competition. So popular is this event now with its tasty treats, entertainment and nostalgic sing-a-long, tickets are in hot demand.

As I wandered the pretty streets of Arrowtown, it was clear to see that the town of the 21st century proudly embraces the history generated by inspirational pioneers of a bygone era.

It’s all on BMW NZ Golf Open March 12 - 15 Arrowtown Autumn Festival April 10 - 19 More info: www.arrowtown.com I was captivated by all I saw; it was like being in an outdoor interactive museum exhibit with a traditionally clad town crier, immaculate vintage cars, an old fashioned PC Plod, myriad locally produced food, beverages, crafts and a variety of artworks all on display.

The Miner’s Band was an absolute highlight for me - comprised of talented local musicians and boasting a variety of instruments, their love of music was plain to see in their wonderful performances of some good toe-tapping nostalgic favourites.

Speaking of the Miner’s Band, Trish told me of their enthusiasm and delight at being part of the Festival,

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

109

commenting that the band have been an “integral part of the Festival” since its formation back in 1985.

Wandering amongst the Market Stalls it was hard to miss the Thursday Club with their traditional sausage sizzle.

The Thursday Club is a group of simply gorgeous local men who told me they have formed their own tradition of meeting up once a week for drinks and a meal. What a welcoming and fun group of guys - they were obviously enjoying the Festival and taking part in celebrating their wonderful town.

Another eye-catcher was the Charm Essentials stall that I smelt before I saw.

The most delightful scent drew me in to take a closer look at their wares; lovingly

110

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

handcrafted soaps. A perfect little souvenir to take away from the Festival and also an ideal gift - they are beautifully packaged. Speaking to the creators, Adele Woodford and Eileen Ryan, they described to me the labour of love it is to mix their deliciously perfumed potions.

Charm Essentials are made from a tried and true recipe; a treat for yourself or a loved one that will never fail to please. I could not choose between the lemon or lavender, so happily ended up with both!

Held on the first Saturday of the Festival, the Grand Parade is steeped in the rich history of this little town and represents the culmination of all the planning to ensure fun and entertainment. Everyone throngs to see

it and get an overall taste of the Festival.

I enjoyed the chance to see all the entertainers and performers winding their way around the township; “Old Red” proudly featured, as a mobile stage for the Miner’s Band, who performed with infectious enthusiasm.

If you have not taken the time to explore Arrowtown before or you have been there in any other season, I recommend you visit during the Autumn Festival and see this town at the peak of its beauty and community spirit.

Set against the backdrop of stunning autumnal colour, it’s no wonder that generations of families set this time aside to join in the vibrancy of this iconic event. GTNZ

ARROWTOWN FASHION The historic town of Arrowtown is only twenty minutes drive from Queenstown. Come and update your wardobe from top stores such as Wallace & Gibbs, Te Huia and IKON.

Accessories at IKON

Add a bit of life to your wardrobe with accessories from Scotch & Soda, Silk&Steel, Quay Eyewear and Mooi handbags. IKON also stocks a great selection of men and women’s shoes by Dr. Martens and Diesel.

QUAY EYEWEAR

Get the celebrity look.

Quay glasses have been seen being worn by famous stars such as Lady Gaga, Beyonce and Gwen Stefani.

Dr. Martens If you are rebellious and love to express yourself then Doc’s are the shoes for you!

IKON have a wide variety of colours and styles to suit anybody’s personality.

BARFLY by SCOTCH&SODA

Men this one’s for you.

An intense yet simple scent that can be used both day and night.

Barfly is the signature fragrance of Scotch & Soda. Much like the clothes, this scent has its own character and is full of details.

Silk&Steel

One of New Zealand’s leading jewellery brands, wtih a huge range of unique and individual pieces to choose from.

Compliment this beautiful jewellery by adding RUBY nail polish to your look.

CANADA GOOSE

A beautiful collection of lavish coats, made to last. For both men and women in styles such as Kensington, Trillium, Chateau and Banff.

To view these magnificent coats go to tehuianz.com

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

111

Queenstown

Queenstown

Journey into Middle-Earth

112

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Looking out the airplane window I could picture Tolkien’s characters inhabiting the surreal and magical landscape below. I was enthralled...

A

s part of our trip around the South Island, my partner treated me to this never to be forgotten flight with Glenorchy Air around the filming locations of the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Glenorchy Air is a family business run by Janet and Robert Rutherford. Their knowledge of

the area shows as does their experience (Glenorchy Air has been operating since 1992).

As a huge Lord of the Rings fan I was excited to be able to follow the path of the characters from the movies through the breathtaking mountain terrain; my mind conjuring up for me my favourite characters from the elves, hobbits, soldiers and orcs. Our pilot was not just transporting us physically - his great love of the area and knowledge from scouting locations for the Trilogy movies shone through as he

Did you know?

Nickname - Adventure capital of the world Population - 28, 224 Area - 8, 704 km2 Main reason to visit Adventure tourism Top attraction - Bungy Jumping and ski fields Fun fact - Lake Wakatipu is NZ’s longest lake spoke. I felt as though I had stepped through a portal into Middle-Earth.

Glenorchy Loukout

NEW ZEALAND SCENIC FLIGHT AIRLINE BASED IN QUEENSTOWN Scenic flights from Queenstown and Glenorchy to many destinations around NZ: Milford Sound, where you can take a cruise.

Fiordland, Mt Cook, the Glaciers Tailored charter flights Lord of the Rings movies location sites

Plus, check out our Trilogy Trail website for our Lord of the Rings tours or our charter services for personalised scenic flights! www.trilogytrail.com

BOOK NOW FOR A FLIGHT OF A LIFETIME NZ FREE CALL

0800 676264

113 info@glenorchyair.co.nz / www.glenorchyair.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

marina

Glenorchy Air only require two participants in order to go ahead with a trip (with a maximum of seven in the largest of the multiple aircraft they operate); fantastic for us as we were the only ones in ours and it was easy to become completely absorbed in the experience. Personal headsets are provided so not one word of the pilot’s informative and much-appreciated commentary is missed.

As the flight unfolded it was obvious to me why Peter Jackson chose these locations; the views were spectacular, and I could visualise hoards of Orcs chasing Hobbits! Our flight took in Poolburn, which is a very isolated area.

Some of the Rohan locations were filmed there, and the scenery is wild;

Located on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, surrounded by the spectacular Remarkables Mountain Range, Mantra Marina offers a beautiful and unique location on New Zealand’s South Island. Only four minutes drive from the centre of Queenstown and just moments from ski slopes, golfing, hiking trails, wineries and high adrenalin sports, Mantra Marina boasts a variety of five star self-contained apartments and standard hotel rooms.

Location features 5 km to Queenstown town central 800 metres to golf course 800 metres to Queenstown Events Centre 30 metres to Kawarau Jet Boat base & pick up 700 metres to 2 character pubs, cafes & takeaways 8 km to excellent wineries

Chard Farm

Mantra Marina

(03)450-9096 marina.res@mantragroup.co.nz Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015 875 Frankton Road, Queenstown, 114 New Zealand 9300

tussock and rock-strewn. Landing on a high country sheep station, we walked to the Poolburn Reservoir (a quiet, remote fishing spot) which was transformed into the mythical city of Rohan in the movie. Our pilot told us that during filming, the crew covered the fishermen’s holiday houses with tarpaulins, turning them into Rohan houses. He knew the scenes firsthand having scouted some of the filming locations with Lord of the Rings producers. I closed my eyes and pictured Legolas, Gimli & Aragon as they sought Pippin & Merry.

As the tour progressed the pilotalso landed on the Fields of Pelennor; another isolated high country sheep station in the Mackenzie country

with sweeping views of a magical landscape (where scenes such as the great battle were filmed). Flying from the “battlefield” to Edoras we had spectacular views of Mount Cook and the Southern Alps; I am positive there is no better way than by air to take in their rugged beauty.

I had such an amazing time on the Three Ring Trilogy Tour I decided to take the Two Ring Trilogy Trail; an opportunity to take in more beautiful scenery and locations but in a different direction. The pilot flew west to the aptly named Paradise area, adjacent to the National Park.

No roads travel any further west from here, and the mountains rise resolutely row upon row. Many films

It’s all on Gibbston Wine & Food Festival – March 21 Queenstown Bike Festival April 4 More info: www.queenstownnz.co.nz

Experience a day to remember Small group, day tour from Queenstown - Te Anau to Milford Sound return We stop where the big buses can’t All year round Trademark ‘kiwi style’ barbeque lunch in the Fiordland National Park between Nov - April Hot buffet lunch on the cruise boat May - October

and advertisements have been made here including Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit, with scenes filmed here including Lothlorien and Fangorn.

Our pilot relays that it was also used for Beorn’s house in the Hobbit. He also pointed out locations for the river Arduin, Ford of Bruinen, Duharrow

Cruise in Milford Sound (may see dolphins, fur seals, waterfalls and more) Often see cheeky Kea on the Milford Road Visit website to book online

www.milford.net.nz

Contact Us MILFORD SOUND BBQ BUS Freephone 0800 421 045 (NZ only) Tel +64 3 442 1045 www.gotravelnewzealand.com Email info@milford.net.nz115

WHEELS, DEALS & NO HIDDEN EXTRAS...

Hot Daily Deals Online

and the battle of Amon Hen before landing at Glenorchy, the landscape on which Saruman’s tower at Isengard was superimposed.

I was then lucky enough to be offered the chance to experience The One Ring Trilogy Trail. The following day I was back at Glenorchy Air and eager to get started. This option is a road tour via a very comfortable fourwheel drive vehicle. It was a real treat

Smoking Hot Rates Lots of Freebies, incl Kids Seats A Nil Excess Option 24 hr AA Roadservice One Way Hires Available Depots Nationwide No Hidden Extras (And no hard-to-refuse upsell)

You’ll ^ our upfr ont and honest service!

Auckland Airport

Nelson Airport

Auckland City

Wellington City & Airport Picton Ferry

Christchurch Airport & City Queentown & Airport Glenorchy Wharf

Freephone / Free Online Quote

Aust 1800 144 367 NZ 0800 52 52 10 www.omegarentals.com

116

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

to spend a whole afternoon being shown around the area by someone who knew it well and stopping at each location site to take in the scenery and hear the stories of the filming. I was once again fascinated by the behind the scenes information.

The tour showcased the beautiful Wakatipu Basin with regular stops to take short walks at locations including the River Arduin – Pillars of the King,

(near some of the local wineries). We also had half an hour in Arrowtown; a lovely village with many of the original buildings built during the gold rush days in the 1860’s. Wonderful experience, I would go again!

The stunning views, spectacular landing sites, and the pilot’s and driver’s intimate knowledge of the region made the Trilogy Trails the highlight of my visit to New Zealand

and a memory which I will always treasure. I am a huge fan of Tolkien, and it was such a uniquely gratifying experience to see the locations and have them brought to life by the knowledgeable and passionate people of Glenorchy Air. The Middle-Earth experience was faultless and excellent value. I would wholly recommend these tours to anyone heading to the Queenstown area. GTNZ

Platinum Queenstown offers luxury villa accommodation with: • 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, full kitchen, laundry, spacious lounge/dining areas and lock-up garage • private courtyard • stunning views of either lake or surrounding alpine vista • 2 minutes drive from centre of Queenstown • ideal for families, business travellers, couples or groups Relax in pure luxury and experience the best of our alpine and lake wonderland.

Phone: +64 3 746 7700 or visit our website: www.gotravelnewzealand.com platinumqueenstown.co.nz 117

Fiordland

Fiordland

The Jewel of Fiordland

by Norm Morgan

A few weeks ago I was minding my own business when a mate of mine emailed me with an “are you going?” note. I had no idea what he was talking about, but it turned out that a group of guys had arranged a fishing trip out of Doubtful Sound and decided that I could go too, as long as I behaved.

118

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

I had to think about this long and hard and 2.5 milliseconds later had my answer - hell yes!

The trip had been booked with Jewel Charters Ltd, a commercial fishing and charter boat operating in Fiordland.

W

e flew into Queenstown to start our trip. The view flying in must rank amongst the most scenic in the world, plus the drive down Lake Wakatipu towards Manapouri is spectacular.

We arrived at the Manapouri Motor Lodge on dusk. The lodge was brilliant.

By the time we got there all the electric blankets were on and after settling in we adjourned to the restaurant and had a damn fine meal. The nicest steak I’ve had for a long time. The next morning we were sent off with a full belly of bacon, eggs, hash browns and baked beans!

Another great thing about this place is that once you leave Manapouri all cell phone coverage is lost. Wonderful! No phone for days…

We arrived about an hour later at the Manapouri power station where our bus was waiting to take us over Wilmot Pass and down into Deep Cove. At 671m Wilmot is one of our most interesting passes. We stopped at the top to take photos before carefully

It’s all on Te Anau Tartan Festival April 3 - 4 Destination Fiordland Photo Competition / Exhibition – April 24 More info: www.teanauevents.co.nz

negotiating the 1 in 5 gravel road that descends in a series of switchback curves down the western slope.

Finally we got our first look at the Jewel – our home for the next few days. Our boat crew was made up of Rob as skipper and owner; Shamrock, one of the nicest locals you could

Doubtful Sound

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

119

find with the loudest laugh I have ever heard and Martin our Michelin Star Chef from Switzerland. Yep, you just read that right, we had a Michelin star chef on board to feed us, complete with white chef’s uniform.

The Jewel is a Marko built in West Australia for cray fishing - around 68 foot long with a single 1100hp engine and a large deck for fishhungry fishermen. She can sleep 8 with a further 3 crew up forward, carries a full blast freezer and a live holding tank for crays along with trawling arms for Albacore tuna - an exceptionally well designed sea boat.

Rob has also equipped her with the Latest Wasp sonar system which was fascinating to watch.

Once we were all aboard and everything stowed away we were off.

Rob gave us a couple of options as to what or where we could go due to the next day’s forecast of 50 knots plus and 4 to 6 meter swells. Option one was to stay around Doubtful Sound and, if possible, head out for a fish.

Catch of the day

120

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Option two was to take some cement pills for those without good sea legs and make a dash down to Dusky Sound with the chance to fish out of there -weather allowing.

One of the things which I guess a lot of South Islanders know that we up north don’t, is that fishing inside the sounds is very limited compared to out at sea. Also one of the problems, as Rob explained to us, is that whilst Doubtful is New Zealand’s deepest sound , it has a huge percentage of fresh water in it, which means that the likes of paua and kina don’t grow too well or too big.

SO… having taken everything into consideration, we decided to make the run to Dusky where the fish are bigger, the crays are even BIGGER and the paua and kina are huge. An added bonus is that there are also far less people down that way.

At the entrance to Dusky we were welcomed by the sight of bottlenose dolphins.

We spent a wonderful thirty minutes

Did you know?

Maori Name – Te Wahipounamu (the place of the greenstone) Population - ~2000 Area - 12, 120 km2 Main reason to visit - Fiords and The Great Walks Top attraction - Milford Sound Fun fact - Largest national park in New Zealand or so with this pod who were clearly having a ball. They seemed to be seeing who could jump the highest and do the most barrel rolls at the same time. Pure magic. Next day we found that the wind had dropped so the Skipper made the call to head out and do some fishing.

We steamed south to a point about half way between Dusky and Chalky Inlet - a little spot the skipper knew well.

Now I guess I should point out that Rob supplied all the fishing gear & tackle. I was going to take my light

SPECTACULAR FIORDLAND OR STEWART ISLAND We specialize in individually tailored, multi-day fully catered charters for private groups of up to 8 people on the luxury 64ft vessel – Jewel.

Featured on ‘Gone Fishin’.

Contact Rob Swale +64 27 4690 190

www.jewelcharters.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

121

rod down for some fun but Air New Zealand wouldn’t allow it on board and I was darned if they were going to put it in the hold so I went without, which, as it turned out, was just as well!

All Rob’s gear is 24kg Game rods with TLD 50 or similar on them. Had me stumped. We were fishing for cod weren’t we? You know, those little buggers we get up north, lucky to go over 1kg on a good day… Wrong.

Yes, we were fishing for cod, but unlike I have ever seen before.

That day I achieved my personal best for a blue cod. On one line, (using two J hooked rigs with lots of bait) I caught the two biggest cod I’d ever seen. That day we fished for five hours and got our full four days’ quota in that time! Cod, groper, trumpeter…the most fun I’ve ever had

Perfectly situated alongside the 11th fairway of the Te Anau golf course

122

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Mitre Peak

on a boat.

The final highlight of our trip was the kina. These were easily the biggest I have seen and nothing like the North Island ones. Perhaps it’s the clean water or what they feed on, who knows, but I can tell you they were a taste experience like nothing else, like crayfish on steroids!

We reluctantly headed home after an incredible few days – laden with seafood and memories.

A great trip with some fantastic people and a great crew, would I do it again? You bet.

PS. I’ve since heard that Rob is finishing up his last season with the Jewel and is launching a new boat next summer – Milford Sanctuary – operating in Fiordland. We’re planning our next trip already. GTNZ

k a y a k uise or

d r o f l i mr douBTful

cr

d N u so o

sweeteany your d with a slic

e of N Z

r o

Pa ddle

d sit back and cruise either milfor on t for or doubtful sounds in com a one of our day cruises... or take guided adventure in one of our sea kayaks.

Power

or

Book Now:

Tel: 0800 24 66 72 / +64 (0)3 249 8585

www.Goorange.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

123

Milford

124

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

125

American Tourister Prismo range ‘Takes on The World’ Since its inception by Sol Koffler in 1933, American Tourister has grown to become one of the most trusted and recognised brand names with a heritage that spans over 78 years. With the aquisition

by Samsonite in 1994, the company continues its tradition of marrying superior quality and design at a great value, offering a wide selection of travel gear targeted at the masses.

American Tourister caters for the cool traveller with its bright and bold Prismo collection.

Prismo is the perfect answer for lightweight, chic design and practical features. With pearl gloss finish, this reflection composes a two-tone like stripe pattern under the light.

• 360 degree multidirectional spinner wheels • Fully lined interior • TSA approved combination lock • Made of Polycarbonate (PC) and Arclonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS), the Prismo range is lightweight sturdy construction.

• There are 5 vibrant colours to choose from - magenta, neon green, royal blue, orange, purple. It’s also available in charcol.

American Tourister Prismo comes in 55cm, 65cm and 75cm spinner cases.

Visit www.americantourister.com.au to locate your nearest store.

RRP: AUD $259-$299 www.samsoniteaustralia.com www.facebook/SamsoniteAustraliaNZ

For the best deals and up-to-date information about your next New Zealand destination visit

www.gotravelnewzealand.com Accomodation, Activities, Transport and so much more... Let us do all the holiday planning for you.

Digital subscription available from

126

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

Enter the competition by subscribing to Go Travel New Zealand on

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

ew

a ze

lan

d.com

w w w. g

otr

av

el

n

y e n r u o j a Take gh NZ throu

New Zealand's Explore

best Region

Discover

where to shop and din e

attractions accommodation

& activities

by Region!

Plus, download our digital magazine to your iPad, Kindlefire and much more

www.gotravelnewzealand.com www.gotravelnewzealand.com

127

128

Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015