LIFESTYLES | THE DISH
FRENCH FLAIR Omar Popal and his father Zubair bring romantic dining by the Seine to Malmaison on Georgetown’s waterfront BY GEORGIA SHALLCROSS
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oused in a refurbished industrial a wonderful job with InterContinental warehouse reminiscent of Hotels there,” he recalls. “Kabul was New York City’s Meatpacking very chic; the ladies wore the latest District, Malmaison is perched astride the fashions from Paris and we hosted Georgetown waterfront at 3401 K Street Champagne buffets.” NW, and is the creation of Omar Popal, In 1987, he migrated to the United its handsome and creative director, and States to raise a family and applied his his father Zubair Popal, a veteran of top knowledge to his first restaurant here, hotels and restaurants in Europe and the Cafe Bonaparte, in 2003. While he Middle East. confesses that the idea of opening a The sleek, modern restaurant, restaurant was daunting, Bonaparte was pastry shop and event lounge features an instant success.The charming crêperie the culinary talents of legendary twopaved the way to opening Napoleon star Michelin chef Gerard Pangaud Bistro, in Adams Morgan, in 2007. and its equally impressive pastry chef The chef ’s story is equally Serge Torres, who hails from New impressive. As the youngest chef to York’s Le Cirque. Both bring a flair for receive a Michelin award (in 1982), romantic Parisian dining by the Seine Pangaud created and operated to Georgetown’s populous Potomac superbly reviewed restaurants in New River waterfront. York City and Paris. He made his mark Omar Popal and his father Zubair Popal (Photo by Ben Droz) On the eve of its one-year anniversary in Washington with Gerard’s Place and next month, Malmaison has become a social focal point in Georgetown. at The Ritz Carlton Pentagon City. “Gerard grew up outside of Paris, On one day the Popals may be hosting Daimler executives from Stuttgart just minutes from [Napoleon and Josephine’s original] Malmaison, so it as they unveil a new Mercedes model to journalists, and on the next, was meant to be,” Omar Popal says. charming throngs of preppy professionals from Ivy Connect and Media The restaurant’s name is a nod to history. Napoleon was on a campaign Bistro. It has become a bustling hive of social bonding and community- in Egypt when Josephine purchased the Château de Malmaison. After centric events in Georgetown, from morning yoga sessions and French the initial shock, Napoleon grew to love a place where guests were music festivals to art shows and specialty tastings in collaboration with “allowed to jest, laugh and be happy.” While the latest addition to the the Alliance Française. Popal portfolio of eateries was acquired in a less surreptitious manner, When not taken over by buy-outs, Malmaison is enthralling its mission is similar: “To be the smartest, most vibrant and sophisticated sophisticated palates with elegant French fare. While the decor is à la restaurant/event space in Washington,” Omar Popal vows. mode, Omar describes the modern French cuisine as “a nod back to In keeping with that goal, Malmaison takes on a Soho House vibe the classics.” on weekend nights with sought-after DJs and a world-class sound The cafe opens early, serving a rotation of pressed juices, French system hand-crafted by the late audio whiz Gary Stewart. “We wanted pastries and boutique coffees, as well as sandwiches and wraps to go. to bring the very best to Washington and compete successfully with At lunch, a few must-order dishes include the mussel soup with spring other cosmopolitan cities,” Omar says. vegetables or the homemade Shephard’s Pie with duck confit. At dinner Regardless of the time of day, Malmaison buzzes like its stylish Chef Pangaud has a weekly-changing three- or four-course prix-fixe bumblebee logo, adopted by Napoleon and which symbolizes menu ($45 or $55), based on what’s available fresh from the markets. He’s immortality. From juice bar and yoga studio, to restaurant, lounge and known for his super fresh seafood dishes, such as palate-pleasing favorites event space, the multiuse venue is unique for Georgetown. like lobster with sauterne sauce, halibut with mushroom crust and sautéed “This is a homecoming for us,” Zubair Popal notes. “We began in shrimp in ginger and lime sauce. Georgetown and the sophisticated historic neighborhood has a special Born in Kabul, Zubair Popal reminisced about the cosmopolitan flair place in our hearts. Returning to Georgetown to launch a new restaurant, of Afghanistan’s capital before the Soviets invaded. “After college I got with a somewhat daring concept, is a dream come true.”
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