Straight ahead, and you’re simply not going to miss the monument that towers in front. Soaring 32 meters in the air, this is, to give it its full name, The Monument to the Home Army and the Polish Underground State (7). Raised in ’99 it’s inscribed with the names of military units and politicians who made the ultimate sacrifice. Parliament (8) (the Sejm) lies nearby. Most of it was leveled during the war, and was rebuilt between ’49-52 to a design by Bohdan Pniewski. Inspired by Venice’s St. Mark’s Square, yet also influenced by both Modernism and the Socialist Realist style of the day, the complex is a masterpiece, though possibly best not appreciated if there’s a protest outside. The proximity of parliament isn’t the only reason behind any security presence you may sense. The area bristles with national banners, many of them fluttering from wedding cake palaces. The one salient exception to this is the US Embassy (9); sat next to its ornamental neighbors, the building is almost conspicuous by its sheer, catastrophic ugliness. The Czetwertyński Palace which once stood on the site actually survived the war, and was originally rented by the rightful owners to Polish Radio. It was while under arrest on charges of spying (for the US), the Czetwertyński’s found their ancient family home confiscated by the state and sold from under them to the US govt. The rest is history: in a bid to build a spy-proof fortress, the Americans bulldozed the palace in the early sixties and replaced it with what can only be described as a candidate for Warsaw’s grimmest building. The Czetwertyński’s, incidentally, are still pursuing
their restitution claim. As you ponder this, make your way back to the start point via Ujazdowski Park (10). Unveiled to the public on August 10, 1896, it’s one of the most elegant parks around – think of it as Łazienki in miniature. Landscaped by Franciszek Szanior, the pathways are lined with decorative streetlamps, ponds and alcoves, and the park features, amongst numerous sights, a bridge designed by the 19th Century English engineer William Lindley. Also of note, the swooning statue of Ewa sculpted by Edward Wittig, a onetime student of Rodin.
W
ith your walk practically over, reward yourself. Two choices spring to mind. Café Rozdroże and Stef. Rozdroże (11) is sheer PRL excess, a glorified glass/concrete box designed by Jerzy Cander. While the interiors have since been savaged by a crass makeover, lovers of seventies swagger will appreciate its exterior form – deemed so cutting edge it was awarded the zany sounding Mr. Warsaw prize for architecture in 1974. If the crowds are too thick, then panic not. Stef (12), in one of the castle outbuildings, is an arty alternative filled with oddball personalities. Order a beer, and enjoy.
DRINK & DINE Rozdroże Cafe Al. Ujazdowskie 6, www.rozdroze.pl Łazienkowska 3 ul. Łazienkowska 3, www.lazienkowska3.com Qchnia Artystyczna ul. Jazdów 2, www.qchnia.pl Steff Cafe ul. Jazdów 1
www.warsawinsider.pl
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