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Canoeing Mazury pages 14-15

Sailing the Wisła pages 12

Exploring Ujazdów

pages 24-27

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INSIDER ONLINE! Yo u r w e e k l y u p d a t e t o Wa r s a w l i v i n g

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Weekend

Yo u r w e e k l y u p d a t e t o Wa r s a w l i v i n g

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For the inside scoop on capital living subscribe to the Warsaw Insider Weekly, our new Thursday e-letter featuring fresh content, hot finds, weekend highlights and more... Sign up for free at: newsletter@warsawinsider.pl

So far you’ve missed: EAT OF THE WEEK

Postcard from Toronto

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y recent trip to Toronto, Canada smacked of futurama. I had with me the February 2011 issue of Smithsonian Magazine where architecture mavens battled over Warsaw’s future skyscape. Shall Warsaw’s skyline mimic its prewar intimacies, tree-lined five- or six-story stone fronted structures? Or is it time for the new Warsaw to step up to its unique position in Europe and be counted? I’m sorry; when I walk over the newly cobblestoned streets of Krakowskie Przedmieście, all I can wonder is ‘what were they thinking?’ What might have been fine for horses just doesn’t cut it with baby carriages or high heels. Same goes for wheelchairs, bicycles or those who use canes. I believe that 40 – 50% of the population might find itself in one of those categories. Not very welcoming, is it, to have to struggle down the main tourist boulevard, freshly denuded of automobiles (a little insult to the injury). Good city planning is a balance between form and function, but function should always trump. The lesson of Ursynów should be seared into Warsaw’s urban planners. Just because it looked so pretty as a picture or an architect’s model didn’t mean squat as it failed from the beginning to fulfill its purpose – enhancing the lifestyle of the population it served. Ursynów’s early incarnation as a directionless mass of vastly separated block housing without basic services is only now, 50 years after its creation, showing some turn around as a responsibly accessible bedroom community. “Starscrapers,” as they were nicknamed in the article, clustered in Centrum could avoid Ursynów-ization. They would maximize the use of the city’s space (environmentally alluring), enhancing business opportunities and aesthetically outshine that controversial hangover from Stalin’s time, the Palace of Culture. Toronto’s starscrapers are actually fairly new to the city – and the view as one arrives in town is remarkable. A vibrant cityscape for a vibrant North American city. It is a stunning model and Europe needs such a capital. I nominate Warsaw.

Paula Rewald editor@warsawinsider.pl

• Na Zielnej • Butchery & Wine • Mississippi Blues • Westin Brunch • MG Eat

BAR OF THE WEEK • Beirut • Charlotte • Hattrick • Flow • Legends

HIGHLIGHTS

All the events the others have missed: ex-pat mixers, club nights, family events, film premieres and sports fixtures.

PRIZES

Concert tickets, vodka and dinner for two at choice venues around town!

DON’T BE AN OUTSIDER – FIND THE INSIDER ON FACEBOOK Check our new ‘LIKE’ page for: • Updated Events • Prize Draws • Community Galleries • Gossip • News • Insider Updates Join our community to find what’s cooking in the capital and beyond. www.warsawinsider.pl

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The Insider is an independent, accurate and sometimes irreverent account of what’s happening in and around Warsaw. If it’s here, we print it. Insider writers are forbidden to accept payment in return for favorable reviews.

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Cycling Warsaw

Canoeing in Mazury

01 Letter from the Editor 05 Insider’s Pick

Postcard from Toronto

04 Why Warsaw? Barry Solone

05 Arts and Entertainment

The best of what the city has to offer, from museums and galleries to concerts and parties

European Presidency Inauguration

06 Calendar Events in July

18 Feature Poland does it Big

10 Feature Cycling in Warsaw

20 Column The Good Old Days... Weren’t

12 Column Mum’s the Word 14 Feature Canoeing in Mazury

July 2011, No. 07 (179) ISSN: 1643-1723

16 Column Relics of the PRL (1952-1989)

Editor-at-Large Paula Rewald

prewald@valkea.com

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Managing Editor Alex Webber

Advertising Karol Kosiorek Manager kkosiorek@valkea.com

Distribution Krzysztof Wiliński Manager kwilinski@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria

29 Insider’s Pick Saint Jacques

Cover Illustration Michał Miszkurka Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows, Kit F. Chung, Anna J. Kutor, Jay Martin, Jessica Savage-Hanford Laura Klos Sokol, Christian Swindells, Elizabeth Urban, Barbara Żach

Published by VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48-22) 639-8567; fax (48-22) 639-8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl

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28 Culinary Profile Kurt Scheller

Information in this guide is accurate as of press time, but things can change quickly and without notice. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

Staff Photographer Bartosz Bajerski bbajerski@valkea.com

Editor Magdalena Dąbrowa mdabrowa@valkea.com

24 Feature Strolling the Neighborhood: Ujazdów

29 Eating Out

22 Feature Ice Cream

Senior Editor Zuza Ziomecka zziomecka@valkea.com

23 Column Polish your Polish

All information ©2011 Warsaw Insider.


what’s inside:

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on the cover

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We’re looking at Uzajdowski Castle this issue, the unexpected home of one of the most influential galleries in Europe: the CSW. Of course there’s more to this place than paintings... Built as a royal residence in the 17th Century, it’s gone on to lead an exotic existence. Read more on p. 24.

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Top Shop: Piccola Italia

32 Hot Find La Bodega 40 Hot Find Valadier 46 Chef’s Special Le Cedre 57 Top Shop Piccola Italia and Mediterraneo

Strolling Ujazdów

59 Going Out 59 Insider’s Pick Charlotte

65 Till You Drop

Where to shop for the best fashion and accessories

65 Insider’s Pick Designer Secret

66 Hot Find Marta Ruta

73 Education Preschools and above

69 Lifestyle

78 Warsaw Map and Street Index

All you need to get around the city, including the best hotels and schools for all ages

69 Insider’s Pick Kids Website

...and find much more at www.warsawinsider.pl Photo/illustration credits: 1. Anna J. Kutor 2. Michał Ślązak 3. Bartosz Bajerski 4. Kevin Demaria 5. Anna J. Kutor

77 Classifieds 80 Feature Shortcuts to Poland

featured contributor

Anna J. Kutor

A journalist and travel photographer, Budapest-born Anna’s assignments have put her in many unusual situations, from eagle training to extreme helicopter rides. When she’s not traveling the fringes of Europe she enjoys contemporary art and design, sharing a glass Printed by Zakłady of wine with friends, and exploring the different Graficzne TAURUS facets of Warsaw on two wheels – see for tel. 022 783-6000 yourself on page 10. Check out her adventures at www.orangeimagery.com. Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

www.warsawinsider.pl

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WHY WARSAW?

If you could make one change to Warsaw, what would it be? I wouldn’t change a single thing. In fact, I think the entire city should be in syndication as a reality show. Oh, maybe one change: I would put subtitles above the heads of the people. Last great meal you had in Warsaw? I really love traditional Polish Food (even from a Bar Mleczny), but recently I actually had some pretty impressive Italian food (gnocchi carbonara with spinach) in a small restaurant in Saska Kępa. First memory of Warsaw? My first memory of Warsaw was being detained at the airport and sent back to New York the following day about 14 years ago... long story. After that, I remember driving in from Poznań the first time and catching sight of the Palace of Culture and saying something like, “Yeesh! What the H--- is THAT?” I really wasn’t fond of its appearance on first glance, to say the least. Over the years, I have actually become quite fond of it, especially the interior. I think it is a brilliant work of architecture, and I have nicknamed it “The Jewel of Warsaw,” especially since they began to get creative with lighting the building at night.

This month we catch up with Barry Solone, a showbiz stalwart on the Polish stage. Which production do you wish you had starred in? I think every Broadway performer wishes they had starred in A Chorus Line; that production really spoke to the soul of every artist who works hard to perfect their skills in order to perform in a BIG Broadway Musical. The truth is, I regret that I missed The Wiz. In later years, I became friends with the choreographer of that show, who won a Tony award for his work in that production, which was one of my greatest early inspirations.

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What has Warsaw taught you? Warsaw has taught me that people can rebuild an entire city from scratch, through sheer determination and hard work. But while they can even build a playground on top of a giant graveyard, the horrors and scars inflicted by war and history are not so easy to bury. Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J u l y 2 0 1 1

What’s happening in Warsaw right now? Warsaw is currently under renovation. From what I can tell, it is in its final stages of being truly Polish and is enroute to Eurofication. This is a good time to visit, to see it all before it becomes indistinguishable from other European capitals. Tell us a secret… I know that one... Once I tell you, it won’t be a secret anymore, right? So that will be quite impossible to do. Peace. The incomparable Barry Solone has lived in Warsaw on and off for the last fourteen years, during which time he’s established himself as one of the most recognizable faces (and voices) on the Warsaw stage. Hailing from Great Neck, NYC, Solone has been involved in showbiz all his life, and works as a choreographer, dancer, singer, song writer and actor.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

INSIDE(R) TALK

If you had to shoot a documentary about your life in Warsaw which places would get star billing? The Sabat Theater where I worked as a choreographer and performer for five years, the Wisła River and the Most Poniatowskiego, which I viewed through my window for eight years. Nowy Świat, the street which is most positively aloof in the summer, and the central train station just for shock effect. Also I would have to feature some of my friends’ restaurants where I have spent an inordinate amount of time just hanging out, drinking and being a general pest.


ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Museums, Galleries, Concerts & Events

EMILIA NOCEŃ AND WERONIKA LIBISZOWSKA; BLOK TECHNICZNY STUDIO

Insider’s Pick

Cur rent issue: 01-31 July 2011 w w w.w arsawinsider.pl

July

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View of the TrzeciE Ucho Stage

Event Inauguration of the Polish Presidency of the EU 22:00-2:00, Main Stage, Plac Defilad

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s of the first of July Poland takes its turn as acting President of the EU. Apart from the associated political prestige, the Presidency is an opportunity for Poland to promote its rich cultural background. It is for this reason that a multitude of cultural events have been organized across the nation, beginning with the official inauguration at the start of the month. Four stages, each focusing on varying types of music, will kick-off a multimedia spectacle titled ‘Tu Warszawa’ (Here Warsaw). The three and a half hour concert will host some of the biggest local and international stars around including Chris Botti, Perfekt, Myslovitz, Manhattan Transfer, Michael Bolton, Kenny G, Angie Stone and Dolores O’Riordan from The Cranberries. This opening extravaganza will be wrapped up with a spectacular fireworks display. Throughout the day performances will take place on other stages around town. The TrzeciE Ucho stage, focusing on experimental and alternative music, will see performances by Fred Smith, Mouse on

Mars and The Ex. An after-party will follow at 3am. The EUharmonia ‘Ethnic Stage’ in the New Town will center on the music and culture of ethnic minorities found in Poland both now and historically. Finally, the EUgeniusz stage in Mariensztat promises to provide entertainment with children in mind. To find out about other Presidency events going on in Poland, for instance, the International Street Art Festival, take a look at the National Audiovisual Institute website at www.nina.gov.pl, or the new Insider Facebook page for regular updates. Poland’s Presidency of the EU is set to run from July 1st until December 31st. (MD)

OTHER STAGES TrzeciE Ucho 18:00 – 3:00, Elektrociepłownia Powiśle and the Copernicus Science Centre EUharmonia 12:00 – 22:00, Rynek Nowego Miasta EUgeniusz 12:00 – 20:00, Rynek Mariensztatu

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

July METRO

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl

1 FRI Opera Premiere King Roger 19:00, Teatr Wielki-Opera Narodowa, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0200, www.teatrwielki.pl Composed by Karol Szymanowski and Jarosław Iwaszkiewicz, this Polish opera was first performed in 1926. David Pountney directs this version, which was first premiered at the Bregenzer Festspiele in 2009. Organised in conjunction with the Adam Mickiewicz Institute as part of the Polish Presidency cultural program, the opera is about the enlightenment of 12th Century King Roger II of Sicily. With English subtitles.

2 SAT Festival Jazz in the Old Town Rynek Starego Miasta, tel. 22 769 7759, www.jazznastarowce.pl Running throughout the summer, this festival is one of the longest in Europe. Audiences can experience free jazz concerts weekly in the Old Town courtesy of artists from Poland, Europe and the USA. This year’s line-up

includes Scandinavian pianist Tord Gustavsen, the Tingvall Trio, Manu Delgao and The Wokheads and the Omar Puente Sextet from Cuba. Runs until the August 27th. For full program, see website.

Festival Reggeae na Piaskach Near the Piaski Reservoir, Ostrów Wielkopolski, www.reggaenapiaskach.pl The popularity of reggae in Poland is clearly evident by the number of reggae festivals which erupt over the summer months. Taking place for the tenth time is the open-air Reggae na Piaskach. The program this year includes Bethel as well as Kamil Bednarek and Starguardmffin from ‘Mam Talent’ fame. International guests include Uwe Banton from Germany, Ras Lawi from Jamaica and Esta Selekta from Amsterdam. For tickets and info on how to get there, see website.

MEDIA PATRONAGE july 1-5 Festival

The International Street Art Festival Various Locations, www.sztukaulicy.pl A unique, summer event that has long engraved on Warsaw’s cultural map. The Festival has developed over the past twenty years to include stars from the international spectrum. The idea is to make art, in the form of theater, circus performance and film, accessible to all. Officially part of the cultural program attached to Poland’s Presidency of the EU, the festival will take place in some of the most popular, picturesque and bizarre (Słodowiec metro, for instance) parts of the city. International guests include Company Malabar from France and Theater Titanick from Germany. Other locations include Rynek Nowego Miasta and Łazienki Park. (MD)

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Malta Festival Various Locations, Poznań, www.malta-festival.pl Six summer days and nights, over 40 bands and over 90 accompanying events including theater and dance shows, open air spectacles, concerts, film screenings and meetings with artists. Indoor and outdoor, on the squares and streets of Poznań, the festival is the biggest annual cultural event in the city. The theme this year is ‘exclusion’ and part of the festival will address the problems associated with this. The musical side of the festival includes performances by Manu Chao, Portishead, Fleet Foxes (below) and Young@Heart. Ends July 9th.

‘We’re building a new house. The re-building of Warsaw between 1945-1952’ History Meeting House (Dom Spotkań z Historią), ul. Karowa 20, tel. 22 255 0500, www.dsh.waw.pl This exhibition looks at the rebuilding of Warsaw in the aftermath of WWII. The scale of destruction is demonstrated in no uncertain terms, with graphic depictions of the architectural carnage which faced architects post-war. English introduction included. Runs until the 30th of October.

12 TUE Concert John Mayall 18:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Founder of John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers, Mayall has been an influential figure in the careers of many artists – including Eric Clapton. Regarded as the ‘Grandfather of Blues’ this comeback performance promises to be an event to remember.

Concert Paramore 16:30, Sowiński Park Amphitheater, ul. Elekcyjna 17, www.rockinsummer.pl These Tennesee natives perform in Poland for the first time as part of the Rock in Summer Festival. Paramore’s second album ‘RIOT!’ gained platinum status in the States, Canada, Australia and Japan. Tickets at www.ticketpro.pl.

15 FRI Festival Roxy Festival 19:00, Sowiński Park Amphitheatre, ul. Elekcyjna 17. Mark Ronson, known for hits such as ‘Valerie’, stars in this new addition to the festival circuit. The mission statement of the festival is to promote unconventional artists, as well as to offer its audience something different from the more commercial endeavors.

Festival Jarocin Festival, Jarocin www.jarocinfestiwal.pl While the roots of this festival

PHOTOGRAPHS: FROM LEFT COURESTY OF INTERNATIONAL STREET ART FESTIVAL; COURESTY OF JAZZ IN THE OLD TOWN, ALL OTHERS WIKICOMMONS

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EVENT CALENDAR can be traced to the 70’s, it’s in the 80’s it really kicked off, being firmly established as the biggest rock festival behind the Iron Curtain. Scheduled to perform over the course of this three day event are Bad Religion (below), Myslovitz, Acid Drinkers, Deriglasoff Band and Moskwa.

16 SAT Festival Samba Festival 19:00, La Playa Music Bar, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, tel. 22 331 4975, www.sambafestival.pl A celebration of all that is samba. Includes performances, parties and workshops. The festival is the culmination of a long running project of the Afro-Brazilian Foundation Centre to promote the festive nature of Brazil. Entry on opening night is priced at zł. 20 with tickets available at the door. Runs until the 18th.

19 TUE Concert Morowe Panny 20:00, Skwer Hoovera, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60A. Organized by the Stefan Starzyński Institute, this event seeks to tell the history of Warsaw from the perspective of women. Problems, experiences and thoughts are told through their eyes in relation to historical events as well as to present day social and cultural movements. Various music and vocal styles will be represented by Jadwiga Basińska, Dorota „FALA” Frontczak, Dorota „ŚLIMAK” Lizun, Mona, Marika, Lilu, WdoWa and Ania Brachaczek accompanied by Maleo Reggae Rockers.

21 THUR Film Festival 11th New Horizons International Festival, Various Locations, Wrocław, www.nowehoryzonty.pl The 11th edition of the biggest film festival in Poland. Offering a voice to alternative or previously unrecognized directors, the festival hosts around 430 feature

and documentary films from over 50 countries. For a full festival program see web. Runs until July 31st.

22 FRI Festival Pozytywne Wibracje Festival 19:00, Dziedziniec Pałacu Branickich, ul. Kilińskiego 1, Białystok, www.pozytywnewibracjefestival.pl The second edition of a festival that celebrates jazz, funk, soul, chillout, club and dance music. The mastermind behind the festival is Stanisław Trzciński, who gained inspiration for the event from his Pozytywne Wibracje (Positive Vibrations) CD series. Participants in this year’s festival will be able to watch Seal, the James Taylor Quartet, De Phazz and Raphael Saadiq to name a few. Two day tickets from zł. 70. Available at eBilet.pl, Eventim.pl and Ticketpro.pl.

www.kongresowa.pl Recognized as a worldwide phenomenon, these energy filled veterans have toured successfully across the globe since the landmark film of the same name. Tickets at www.ticketpro.pl.

30 SAT Festival Art Pop Festival 16:00, Leśny Park Kultury i Wypoczynku, Myślęcinek, Bydgoszcz, www.artpopfestival.pl Moving on to a slightly changed format from the previous Smooth Festival, international headline acts at this year’s event include Amy Winehouse (below), Hooverphonic, Razorlight and I Blame Coco. Playing in the Polish corner is Ania Dąbrowska, Monika Brodka, Piotr Rogucki, Sofa and Skinny Patrini. Tickets are priced from zł. 130 and available at Ticketpro.pl and Eventim.pl.

24 SUN Concert Buena Vista Social Club 18:00, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299,

MEDIA PATRONAGE Fitness Yoga in the Park 10:15, Sun (until August 28th), Pole Mokotowskie and Park Skaryszewski, www.jogawparku.pl ‘Yoga in the Park’ is a series of free outdoor, weekly meetings promoting yoga and healthy living, that will run in Warsaw and other Polish cities from June 19th until August 28th. This national initiative, organized by the Biosferis Foundation and initiated by Paweł Zatchej, has dramatically grown in size over the past four years and now boasts as many as 20,000 participants. For the first time this year, showbiz and media personalities are slated to participate. Each 90 minute session will be conducted by different instructors, with all levels accommodated. Accompanying seminars and extra activities are also part of the program. Adults with children need not feel excluded; a supervised kids corner has been arranged. (MD)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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July METRO

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl

screening room opening this month:

8th

Transformers: Dark of the Moon (3D Transformers 3) Action, Sci-Fi. USA, Dir. Michael Bay, with Shia LaBeouf, Josh Duhamel and Rosie HuntingtonWhitely The third part of the saga sees the war between the Autobots and the Decepticons continue, this time on the moon. Petrol heads won’t be disappointed, the new Autobot is, apparently, a Ferrari 458 Italia.

Arthur Comedy. USA, Dir. Jason Winer, with Russel Brand, Jennifer Garner, Nick Nolte, Helen Mirren In this re-make of the classic film, billionaire Arthur Bach (Brand) is a care free man who spends his hours living the good life – that is until his unpredictable reputation threatens the family name. Arthur is presented with a stark ultimatum to marry or surrender his fortune.

Larry Crowne (Larry Crowne – Uśmiech losu) Comedy, Drama. USA, Dir. Tom Hanks, with Tom Hanks, Julia Roberts Larry Crowne (Hanks) has lost his job and is in a mid-life crisis. Deciding to re-enrol in college, along with a group of similar outcasts and has-beens, he ends up in a public speaking class taught by Mercedes Tainot (Roberts). Just as bored with the everyday, Mercedes realises, as does Larry, that there’s more that life has to offer...

ISLE OF MAN FILM

Chico & Rita Animation, Romance. Spain, Great Britain, Dir. Javier Mariscal, Fernando Trueba, Tono Errando Based on a true story this animated feature comes set in 1940s Cuba and New York. Chico is a young pianist, and Rita a talented singer – music and love unite them, but their journey together also brings heartache and struggle.

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(woop!) with this action packed finale. Harry (Radcliffe), Ron (Grint) and Hermione (Watson) fight Lord Voldemort for the last time in a bid to destroy something called his last Horcrux. Beginners (Debiutanci) Drama. USA, Dir. Mike Mills, with Ewan McGregor, Christopher Palmer, Melanie Laurent The story of Olivier, a man whose life changes with the bombshell that his 75-year-old father (Plummer) is gay and dying of cancer. Realising he doesn’t know his father that well, Olivier begins a journey of discovery. Along the way he meets Anna (Laurent) who makes him realise that true love after 30 is possible.

29th Monsters (Strefa X) Sci-Fi. Great Britain, Dir. Gareth Edwards, with Scoot McNairy, Whitney Able Mexico, 2015: the country has been invaded by aliens, and news photographer Andrew Kaulder (McNairy) is handed the task of escorting his boss’s daughter (Able) through the danger zone and back to the States. Says The New York Times: ‘a dreamy love storycum-road movie nestled inside a sci-fi scenario.’

Hal Jordan (Reynolds) is the first human recruit of keepers of the peace, the Green Lantern Corps. Given a mystical green ring, Hal, encouraged by his love Carol Ferris (Lively), must master his new powers and prove that he can defeat Parallax, an enemy that threatens to destroy the power balance of the Universe. Bridesmaids (Druhny) Romantic Comedy. USA, Dir. Paul Feig, with Kristen Wiig, Rose Byrne, Maya Rudolph Centered around Annie (Wiig), the single maid of honor, ‘Bridesmaids’ follows the antics and pre-wedding rituals of five friends before the wedding of Lillian (Rudolph). Dubbed the female version of ‘The Hangover’ many critics see more meaning to this film’s message. No kidding.

Green Lantern Action, Sci-Fi. USA, Dir. Martin Campbell, with Ryan Reynolds, Blake Lively Another DC comics character gets his own film. In this feature

15th Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2 (Harry Potter i Insygnia Śmierci: część II) Fantasy, Adventure. USA, Great Britain, Dir. David Yates, with Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint, Emma Watson The saga comes to an end

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J u l y 2 0 1 1

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

PHOTO BY UNIVERSAL PICTURES

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WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC.

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HEALTH: CYCLING

PEDAL POWER

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PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE, ANNA J. KUTOR, OPPOSITE SHUTTERSTOCK

Warsaw's urban-geared cycle craze follows the European trend of switching from horsepower to pedal power, thanks in part to an increasing number of dedicated bike lanes, rest spots and repair shops. BY ANNA J. KUTOR

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ntil recently, the only two-wheelers competing for a share of Warsaw's bike routes and pothole-ridden road space were fitness obsessed peddlers in spandex pants and kamikaze messengers. But the notoriously hostile cycling infrastructure has started to improve, with city officials placing a higher priority both on improving and expanding the cycle path network in Warsaw. The results are clear: whether it's well-dressed commuters on city bikes, gangly blondes riding their glossy Dutch Gazelles or young parents taking their toddler out for a casual spin, Varsovians have rapidly come to appreciate the evenleveled layout and two-wheel touring potential of their city. These days, Warsaw's bike revolution is really on a roll. Warsaw's inner-city districts have a variety of bikeways, but their disconnected and isolated layout makes accessibility inconsistent and street-crossing difficult. Żoliborz and Ursynów have the most comprehensive and coordinated system of lanes, plus a number of Park&Ride (Parkuj i Jedź) shelters next to metro stations that have cycle racks to lock up your ride so it's not permanently 'borrowed'.

Praga's Wheel Appeal Praga isn't a neighborhood you might think of visiting on two wheels, but the Wisła's right bank also has some exciting possibilities for peddlers. A few months back, the messy, marshy corridor along the river was converted into a zigzagging dirt route tailor made for that beat-up old Trek lying in the basement. Bounded by trees and general undergrowth, the path is hidden from plain sight, so if you're approaching from the center via Most Świętokrzyski, turn left and look out for a narrow downhill track. By the time you reach the sandy beach beyond the next bridge, it'll be time for a pit-stop so dismount for a cocktail or two at La Playa Music Bar (ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl) and get an eyeful of the Old Town skyline. If your skinny slicks can't cope with the sand and stones, then the zigzagging paths throughout Park Praski and the Zoological Garden will prove to be more restful. South-bound down Wał Miedzeszyński, traces of PRL-era recreational facilities and wild nature mingle with new housing and landscaping. Extending all the way too-and-across Most Siekierkowski, this flat, traffic-heavy route is where lycra-clad adrenaline junkies really build up speed. This stretch doesn't offer much by way of gastronomic interest – save for the suave Boathouse (Wał Miedzeszyński 289A, www.boasthouse.pl) – but passionate pedal pushers won't mind. A quieter, safer alternative to that busier road is going for a spin in Saska Kępa. Here there's no shortage of cafes and restaurants to pop in for a post-ride lunch, but a standout amongst the crowd is Legend Salon & Cafe (ul. Saska 105, www.legendcafe.pl). A year-old socializing spot for the city's proliferating bicycle tribes, this friendly little cycle cafe brings together a cozy coffee shop and a selection of sparkly new bikes and scooters as well as high-end bike-wear. Two-Wheelin' Around the Wisła The city's pioneering path along the western side of the Wisła may be worn down by wheels, but it is now a welldeveloped and wide-raging route, amply titled The Wisła River Trail. Over 37 kilometers long, this bikeway – marked with blue signs – stretches from the botanical garden

WARSAW CRITICAL MASS

Cycling enthusiasts who want to assert their rights to the road, draw attention to their healthy method of transport, or just simply ride with a group of die-hard peddlers can join Warsaw's Critical Mass demonstration. The year-round, monthly parade of human-powered vehicles takes place on the last Friday of each month. For more details check: www.masa.waw.pl.

in Powsiń on the city's western margins to the northern Kampinos National Park and Łomianki area. On paper this looks like an idyllic Sunday-afternoon ride through or next to Warsaw's A-List outdoor attractions: Agrykola and Łazienki Park, the Citadel, the breezy waterfront zone and the green patches at both ends. And it is, not only because it combines picture book scenery, but because it boasts sundry places to slosh and nosh en-route. Kick start your ride from the newly-paved bike lanes along Al. Ujazdowskie, then coast down Agrykola to the tree-lined path heading north. If you plan to traverse the whole elaborate river trail, it's best to stop by Kafka Cafe (ul. Oboźna 3, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl) for a healthy fuel-up of cheese, ham and pineapple toast. If stylish structures are your thing, then zip across the street to see the drool-worthy hipster cruisers and commuters at Asphalt Bikes (ul. Leszczyńska 12, www.asphaltbikes. com). To get back on track head down Lipowa until the Copernicus Science Centre and make your way onto the blue-marked path. Cruise along towards Most Gdański, weaving between the dedicated path and the car-free asphalt to really road-test your ride. There's no shortage of boozers along this stretch so stop by Cud Nad Wisła or the boat-bound Smażalnia Story for a freshener. Proceed onwards upstream, past the military fortifications until you reach a junction: take the left path under Wybrzeże Gdańskie that leads to Kępa Potocka Park or turn right to admire the modern architecture of the Olympic Centre and to check out the history of Polish sports at the Museum of Sport & Tourism (ul. Wawelska 5, www.muzeumsportu. waw.pl). Having whizzed through the acres of parkland, which can be quite a workout due to the scruffy and undulating paths, the road veers left up Al. Armii Krajowej and turns right on Słowackiego. Soon you'll be surrounded by even more greenery at Bielański Forest and Młociński Park, where it's time for a well-deserved picnic before returning downtown.

WARSAW'S BEST BIKE SHOPS

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 508 615 001, www.sztukarowerowa.pl Airbike Al. KEN 49 / Jerozolimskie 148 in C.H Reduta, www.airbike.pl Sklep Rowerowy ul. Broniewskiego 7 / ul. Śniegockiej 2 and ul. Belwederska 44, www.skleprowerowy.pl

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MUM'S THE WORD

THE RIVER DELIVERS Once a murky, muddy mess, the Wisła has been reborn as an unlikely family paradise. BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

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grew up by the coast in England, so living in Warsaw with all its complexities often leaves me panging for the ocean's simplicity. But Warsaw has the Wisła, and I am a mum with a positive outlook. Four times a day the school run takes me along the not so pleasant dual carriageway running alongside the river, but my daughter and I have enjoyed, and sometimes endured, some of the Wisła’s finer moments. Winter saw the river sprinkled with ice floes, while autumn and spring either side brought floods that burst banks, dragged trees downstream and threatened our daily routine. Summer, however, brings with it something Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J u l y 2 0 1 1

more pleasing. So to honor the grand stadium being built, the Science Centre, the impressive water fountains that have been unveiled and Pepsi’s activity haven of Port Wisla, I thought it about time my family saw Warsaw from the river. Tramwaj Wodny (www.zegluga-stoleczna.pl), one of the few boats to be seen, chugs up and down the Wisła on weekends between the months of May and September. A bar with soft drinks/beer and grill is onboard, and tickets can be purchased upon boarding. After a short wait in a long queue (be on time if you want a seat) we embarked on our cruise with excited anticipation for the adventures ahead. Whilst the children were just thrilled to be on a boat (… that played rather loud dance music), we were seduced by the panoramic views and the waters repose. But then came roars of laughter as the boat rocked from side-to-side courtesy of waves caused by a rogue jet skier. We made a brief stop near the Copernicus Science Center to drop off and collect, and then moved off toward ‘Port Wisła.' The crew, dressed in pirate-like Breton stripes, were friendly and happy to let children hop into the captain’s cabin to grasp the steering wheel. Bringing your own food and drink onboard was also acceptable. So ignoring the possibility of sea sickness, we ploughed our way through my bag of twiglets and jam sandwiches! As the boat drew nearer to Port Wisła (www.portwisla.pl), the dance tunes were drowned out by squeals of excitement and it became clear this city had woken to the benefits of its grand waterway. The river was full of little sail boats, and the beaches host to a mass of children making sandcastles by the river’s edge. Adrenaline seekers were speeding up and down the river in joyride speed boats, while for those wishing to stay on-land there were alternatives aplenty: Port Wisła offers climbing, table tennis, badminton, play areas, music, swimming, chill-out areas and cafes, all to a tropical palm tree backdrop. Although the children were eager to get off and explore our mission was to complete the round trip cruise: all 100 minutes of it! We waved farewell to the sporting paradise and sprawled out on the deck for the final leg of the journey. Sadly the boat picked up speed on the return and we found ourselves back on shore quicker than expected, although our expectations of the trip had certainly been exceeded. The boat is basic and seats are few, but we all came away with a new admiration and somewhat romantic feeling toward this city and its river.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

“The dance tunes were drowned out by squeals of excitement and it became clear this city had woken to the benefits of its grand waterway”


37 Łowicka St., Warsaw • Tel. 22 224 54 54, 22 423 44 40 www.valadier.pl • e-mail: restauracja@valadier.pl


PADDLE AND FLOAT AWAY Not keen on sailing? No worries, you can still have fun splashing the waters of the Mazurian Lakes. BY KIT F. CHUNG

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ome summer weekends, the denizens of the capital decamp to the Masurian Lake District to snuggle up to nature. Almost every Pole I know has sailed these waters. It’s a local rite of passage to write off a few weeks of summer nights to slosh beer and croon sailing songs on the campsites by the marinas.

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It takes only three hours (at a sensible speed) to reach the southern perimeters of the lake lands, so it’s a quick and no fuss getaway for city-weary folks. However, these lakes are no tiny puddles. You have to know your way around on the waters and how to tame a wind-powered vessel. Locals who frequent Mazury usually have a sailing license. For me, the whole business of renting a boat and hiring a skipper (you need one of these bodies if you don’t have the permit to sail) is way too much coordination for my holiday-soused mind. Canoeing on the Krutynia trail, on the other hand, needs no paperwork and minimal prep, thus permitting one to be spontaneous. Lying to the west of the main cluster of Mazurian lakes, the Krutynia waterway is over 100 km long. It strings together several lakes and zigzags along scenic low lands. This is a well-paddled route; so, sorry, you won’t be filming Discovery World. And since it’s a one-way lane, there’s no map reading or arguing about where to turn left. You just let the gentle current do the navigation. However, on Lake Mokre (from Zgon to Krutyń) the current sometimes picks up enough strength to make the water surface a bit choppy and stomachs

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAŁ ŚLĄZAK AND MAP BY KEVIN DEMARIA

TRAVEL: MAZURY


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slightly queasy. Other than that, the most dangerous thing you might encounter is the psychotic swans that get hysterical if you inch too close to their feathers. On the whole, it’s plain (and relaxing) sailing, making it a popular outdoors pursuit for the whole family. Yes, that reads “kids are welcome” and they tend to have a fab time and want a replay. If you’re gamed for the extended, multi-day expedition, the common starting point is at Sorkwity. Most equipment rentals would propose a seven to eight day program that ends at Ruciane-Nida. Those who fancy roughing it out (but why?) can camp along the route. There is also a deluxe option where they ferry you back to a comfy hotel at the end of each day. The zero-planning required day trip suits me perfectly. An unofficial village for canoeing day-trippers is Piecki, a one high street settlement plastered with “Kajaki” rental signs. If you get there early, like I did once, you'll find most rentals busy kitting out the bigger parties. Around 10.30am is just nice. After selecting the route, expect to be bundled into a van before being dropped at your chosen starting point. About four hours later when you're done, simply call the rental people to come and retrieve you. But what to expect of the four hours? Sheer relaxation. The current does most of the work, so no-one will complain of over-exertion. The shallow waters are so clear you can make eye contact with the fish and study the weeds. Being at the eye level of the river and meandering in slow mo, Mazury looks totally different from the one as seen through a car window. Yes, this is one hassle-free adventure in nature that even a committed city slicker can pull off. It isn’t a National Geographic expedition but it’s still loads of fun.

SORKWITY

MIKOŁAJKI

PIECKI

Lake Mokre

KRUTYŃ il

ZGON

ia

yn

ut

Kr

a Tr

PISZ RUCIANENIDA

SZCZYTNO

“Being at the eye level of the river, Mazury looks totally different from the one as seen through a car window”

MRĄGOWO

FAST FACTS Rent-a-boat I checked out AS-Tour (www.masuria-canoeing.com) and found them to be friendly and reliable. Richard Baker, who teaches at the British Council, gives his endorsement to the very customer-oriented Mr. Roman from Wodniak (kajaki.wer.pl). Checklist Cash: Don’t leave home without it. Most rentals don’t deal in plastic. There is an ATM somewhere in the village. Sun block cream: Most of the journey is exposed to open skies with not much shade from trees. Packed sandwiches: Leave them at home. There are numerous 'agroturystyka' eateries along the banks where you can pull over to grab a beer and other survival grub. With that in mind, be sure to ask for a vessel with built-in drink-holders. Land Ho! If you feel like stretching your legs, you could detour to Lake Duś for direct access to the Old Believers Monastery in Wojnowo (www.klasztor.com.pl). Man-made attractions are few and far between in the vicinity, so this monastery gets plenty of coverage at the tourist info centers. It has a chapel with Orthodox icons and a cemetery with three-barred papal crosses. There isn’t that much to see here, so go only if you’re very curious about the history of the Old Believers. Shelters & Refueling Mazury thrives on the summer tourist trade, so there are beds and meals to suit all price brackets. Oberża Pod Psem (www.oberzapodpsem.com) is an inn a stone’s throw from the Kadzidłowo Wildlife Park. Set up by a Polish couple who support the conservation of regional wooden architecture, the property is created to resemble an idyllic Mazurian homestead with bucolic rooms available for rent. The restaurant offers traditional dishes where the food is served on antique tableware. The Potocki Hunter’s Mansion (www.galkowo.pl) is a rustic-chic watering hole. Previously, it went by the moniker of Gałkowo but now the aristocratic name of the founder is deployed as the frontline. The rooms here are charming, with an equestrian theme, while the restaurant serves seasonal and regional dishes.

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RELICS OF THE PRL (1952-1989)

Designed by Zbigniew Karpiński, the Rotunda opened in 1966, and formed the cornerstone of the Ściana Wschodnia (the Eastern Wall); a huge urban project consisting of three residential towers anchored by the Wars, Sawa and Junior department stores. Nicknamed ‘The General’s Hat’ on account of its quirky appearance, it today stands as an iconic piece of PRL real estate. However, it’s also much more – on February 15, 1975, it became the site of, what was at the time, Poland’s biggest post-war disaster. At 12:40 the building was ripped apart by a giant explosion that left 49 dead and over 70 injured. The official explanation cited a gas leak as the cause, but the locals weren’t (and some still aren’t…) convinced. Sensing a cover-up, rumors flew thick-and-fast suggesting the explosion was actually the work of embezzling bank officials, keen to destroy evidence and put anti-corruption

investigators off their scent. Others theorized anti-Communist saboteurs had planted a bomb, with the urban grapevine asserting a mysterious evacuation call was telephoned through minutes before calamity struck. In the aftermath over two thousand workers scoured the debris for evidence, and blame was apportioned to a gas buildup exacerbated by the extreme temperatures. Today most accept this official version of events. Rebuilt at breakneck pace, the building reopened in October, 1979, with cosmetic changes including the incorporation of tinted glass to the façade. A small plaque stands to one side commemorating those who lost their lives, and while the Rotunda has become a symbolic piece of PRL heritage, plans have been continually mooted to replace it with something all the more bigger, anonymous and financially profitable. We would sincerely hope not. (AW)

BAR AMATORSKA Occupying a prime

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spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet of fancy haunts is Amatorska (Nowy Świat 21), a divey drinkery that’s stood here since the 70’s. It’s a defiant two fingers to the cocktail cool of contemporary Warsaw, with a basic design whose one nod to modern civilization is a weird smoking capsule which allows the locals to pursue their habit without bother from the feds. A steep, plunging stairwell takes guests to a steamy toilet downstairs, and leaves them in little doubt this place has barely changed since the day it began. (AW)

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PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP AGENCJA FORUM. BOTTOM THREE KEVIN DEMARIA

PKO ROTUNDA

A collector’s item to some, a good laugh to others, the Fiat 126 wins kudos as the car that motorized Poland. Born in ’72, over 3.3 million were sold in PL until production ceased in 2000. Celebrated as the people's car, its nickname, Maluch (little ’un), was so widely used it was adopted as the car's official name in 1997.


S_DTZ_Warsaw_Insider_165x225.indd 1

6/27/11 1:35:16 PM


DOING IT LARGE! Huge, massive, leviathan. Call them what you will, we've tracked down the biggest and best places that prove size is everything. BY JAY MARTIN

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THE WORLD’S LARGEST STATUE OF CHRIST – ŚWIEBODZIN. For hundreds of years the town of Świebodzin (pop: 21,000) has been remarkable for being largely unremarkable. Lying about 60kms from the German border, between Warsaw and Berlin but without great connections to either, it’s been going about its business – whatever that may be – largely undisturbed. Yet a single priest with an idea that was ‘just so crazy it might work’ has changed all that. Move over, Rio de Janeiro. As of November 2010, Świebodzin has officially been home to the World’s Biggest Jesus. At 33 meters high (one for every year of Jesus’ life), Świebodzin’s plaster and fiberglass ‘Christ the King’ pips the former title holder, Rio’s ‘Christ the Redeemer,’ by around 3 meters. His outstretched arms span 25 meters. Designing and building him took nine years, with the $1.5 million price tag met entirely from private donations. Think of Rio’s majestic icon towering over the global city from the top of a cliff. Now, imagine something completely different Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J u l y 2 0 1 1

PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT BY JAY MARTIN. ALL OTHERS SHUTTERSTOCK.

POLAND’S BIGGEST CHURCH – THE BASILICA OF OUR LADY OF LICHEŃ Work on the current Licheń Basilica started in 1994, and was only completed in 2004. The result is the biggest church in Poland, and the sixth largest in the world. And even in a country with a lot of competition on the impressive church front, the outcome of this decade-old effort is outstanding. The ground floor is dedicated to a large open plan space featuring marble plaques naming the private donors who made the Basilica’s construction possible. The vast cavern of the church proper is on the floor above, with space for 30,000 (!!) of the faithful. The courtyard in front is designed to accommodate an extra quarter of a million visitors – which it does on certain days. When I said big, I meant big. I’m used to European churches either being old, big, ornate and impressive, or new and not much else. What’s fascinating about Licheń (other than its size – did I mention it’s big?) is that it’s ornate, impressive, and only seven years old. No effort – or expense – has been spared here. But with everything being brand new, the vibrancy and freshness of the statues, frescos and decorations is uniquely striking. The title of most interesting thing at Licheń, though, I reserve for the ‘Golgotha,’ a 30 meter-high hill named after Christ’s crucifixion site and dating from the 1970's. A marked route leads pilgrims over and around it, past caves marking each station of the Cross. Certain parts of the path are reserved for those traveling on their knees. The decorations betray their origins: their technicolor mosaics, with colored glass casting rainbows on marble statues of angels and cherubs, scream 1974. Sound tacky? It’s fantastic. Don’t even think about missing it.


and you’ve got Świebodzin. Świebodzin’s monument to its faith rises from a field of cabbages, across the road from the local Tesco supermarket. The initial impression is hardly overwhelming. But it was simply impossible not to be swept along by the enthusiasm of the crowd at the official opening in November. “Imagine, the ruler of the universe – on Polish soil!” said one member of a delegation who’d travelled all the way from Kielce to be there. “People will definitely come from all over the world to see it,” was the opinion of any number of people I spoke to. Well I did, so that makes at least one. THE HILL OF CROSSES – GRABARKA While technically more numerous than large, the Holy Hill (Święta Góra) at Grabarka is certainly noteworthy, with the added advantage of not being very far from Warsaw. It was in 1710, in the midst of an outbreak of cholera that had killed thousands, that one local villager had a dream that the only way to survive was to take a cross to the Hill and drink from the stream. He passed on the information to the local priest, who marched the whole village up there at once. His efforts were successful, with (as legend has it) no one else dying from the epidemic from that moment onwards. In the 300 years since, thousands of pilgrims have followed in the footsteps of these first pilgrims, leaving crosses and prayers among the pine and birch trees that cover the mound. Estimates of the numbers of crosses now standing there vary from 10,000 to 20,000. Most are Orthodox, distinguished from a Catholic or Protestant crucifix by two extra horizontal pieces, although the Hill is held responsible for granting miracles to those of all faiths – or even of none. So you really have nothing to lose. ŚNIARDWY LAKE – MAZURY The largest lake in Poland is Śniardwy, in the Masurian Lake District. It ranks at number 115 in Europe, which seems quite unfair when you get there and see how enormous it really is. Although with more than 2,000 to choose from, it also seems unfair to pick just one out for a special mention. The whole region is stunning, especially at this time of year, and you could really do worse than to spend a few days here canoeing, hiking, walking, swimming, fishing, or simply lazing around if that’s your sort of thing.

GETTING THERE

Stary Licheń: Lies not far off the Łowicz-Poznań motorway, about three hours from Warsaw. The town’s amenities consist almost entirely of Licheń Basilica trinket sellers, although basic food and accommodation for pilgrims is available at the Basilica itself if you want to immerse yourself in the experience. Świebodzin: Wave at it from your train carriage on the way to Berlin, or hop off and say hello. By car, head to the end of the Łowicz-Poznań motorway, follow the signs, and about five hours from Warsaw you’ll be there. Grabarka: About two and a half hours by car or three hours by local train from Warsaw will get you there, making for a very achievable day trip. A stop at the banks of the nearby River Bug for a picnic should have you waxing lyrical on the beauty of the Polish countryside in summer.

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THE GOOD OLD DAYS... WEREN'T

HIGHWAY TO HELL

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ne reason why I hesitated driving a car around Warsaw when we moved here twenty years ago, was the answer I got after asking several taxi drivers, “What is the proper way to make a left turn?” Invariably they answered, “Anyway you want to.” Twenty years later, that hasn’t changed. Consequently, from day one, I was perfectly happy to let Warsaw bus drivers, all of whom seemed to be frustrated F1 drivers, maneuver the ever-changing obstacle course otherwise known as ‘driving in Warsaw’. In those early years, I managed to read the rules of conduct that were posted on bus windows: Eight pages of fine Polish print explaining passenger ‘do’s and don’ts’ which, if translated into English, simply read: BEHAVE ON THE BUS. Over the years, I have seen bus passengers transporting Christmas trees, ladders, live fish, kitchen sinks and, on one occasion, a ribbed space heater pulled onto the bus by its electric cord as if it was a dog on a leash. All this was (and is) normal to Poles; I especially enjoyed (and still do) the accordion-playing urchins serenading us as they hustled passengers for a few złoty coins. My husband, on the other hand, was reluctant to ride the buses because, in answer to his question, I informed him, “No, Stan, there is no ‘business class’ on the bus.” (I believe he was actually hoping for a bus business lounge offering herring and free drinks between the office and home at the end of the day.) And so, as I recall, very soon after arriving in Poland in 1991, my husband started to drive – how can I put this? – in a very Polish way. Not

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surprisingly, he became well acquainted with all the police officers who patrolled the route between Wilanów and Piaseczno. (Over the years, I believe that he was even asked to be the godfather to some of their children.) In any case and to move things along, my husband always claimed to have a 50 złoty note in one pocket and a 200 złoty note in his other and he would suggest resolving differences of opinion – regarding speed limits for example – by letting the police officer, in a manner of speaking, ‘pick a pocket’. I will swear in court that I never witnessed this... highly improbable and morally questionable behavior, but my husband confessed to me (and, I presume, to a priest ) that unbeknownst to the police, both pockets always actually held a 50 złoty note. On a related point, all legal, criminal, medical, nonsensical and comical paperwork in Poland involves Question 2: Imię Ojca? which means ‘Name of father’. Even after living here for 20 years. Just why, for example, the police needed to know this a few years ago when I reported a stolen barbeque grill is still not clear to me. On one occasion when my husband (the same one mentioned earlier) was stopped for an alleged traffic violation, the police officer, pad in hand, noted my husband’s name and then asked Question #2 “Imię ojca?” My RC, church-going husband and former altar boy instinctively continued “... i Syna i Ducha Świętego, amen” (… and the Son and the Holy Spirit, amen). He then asked, “Is praying a new Catholic police procedure?” Pan Policjant was not amused.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

In our ongoing look at the Poland of the past, the Insider explores the hazard that remains... driving in town. BY ELIZABETH URBAN


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THE INSIDE SCOOP

This issue the Insider snoops around for the scoop on the best ice cream in town: the fave flavors of those who know best... BY KIT F. CHUNG

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t depends on what you like,” or, “everything is delicious,” are the wrong answers. They were also the answers given to me by most ice cream store assistants when I asked for help to nail down three scoops from the multi-colored temptations on display. But I got the wrong answers because I asked the wrong question. By switching strategy and dialing up the charm offensive with the inquiry of “Which are your favorites?” I got the ladies smiling and disclosing their personal likes. At Malinova, the pride and joy of the house are gelato al biscotto and pistachio. Whenever Polish papers or TV channels release their ranking of the best ice cream in the capital, Malinova is invariably up there with the top three. The sales girl threw in dolce latte as another personal fave. Despite the Italian monikers, the manager stressed that the recipes are 100% Polish, adding, Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J u l y 2 0 1 1

“We have a total of 70 varieties, and we develop new types all the time. Everything is made in house, using Polish milk and cream.” Another perennial winner is Grycan, whose parlors can be found all across the country. Always doing brisk biz is the store on ul. Puławska. “Mint, strawberry and mango,” declared the salesgirl when I asked the right question. My rule of thumb was to stay clear of tropical fruits since they tend to taste like essence from a bottle rather than made from fresh fruits. But so disarming was the salesgirl that I succumbed to her gospel and ordered a helping of mango sherbet. Though it wasn’t bad, I redoubled my conviction to trust old experiences. Back on the trail of small-scaled producers, I swung by W. Hoduń in the Old Town. Try playing Q&A with the staff and you will surely be pelted with wilting looks from the people standing in line behind you. Judging by the long queues (… especially on sunny weekends), everything must be good. Away from prime tourist real estate is Akwarium. Like Malinova, they don’t use scoops but ice-cream spades. Quite decisively, the salesgirl singled out blood orange (czerwona pomarańcza) sorbet as a must-try. “The color looks artificial,” I blurted out and immediately got whacked by a withering stare. Upon sampling, I was sold. It’s refreshing with a pleasant bitter tang. She also shortlisted the Cookies and Malaga, while a regular patron chimed in that the zabajone was worth the calories. Akwarium’s main outlet is in Saska Kępa, where you’ll have the full selection of 45 ice creams and sorbet to ponder over. The branch on the left bank has 26. Going at zł. 3 per scoop, Irena Café, also in Saska Kępa, is one of the priciest. Though a modest operation, it’s the neighborhood ice cream spot for people In The Know. Armed with a small crew of tasters, we had licks of śmietanka (plain cream), chocolate, pistachio and blueberry – definitely worth going out of the way for even if you live on the other side of the water. Akwarium ul. Francuska 50/9, ul. Grójecka 19/25; tel. 22 616 2459 Grycan (multiple locations); ul. Puławska 11, tel. 22 849 8938 Irena Café ul. Paryska 39/1, tel. 22 353 11 33, www.cukierniairena.pl Malinova Al. Niepodległości 130, tel. 22 849 8732 W.Hoduń ul. Nowomiejska 7/9, tel. 22 635 7346, www.lody-warszawa.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KIT CHUNG. ILLUSTRATION BY BARBARA ŻACH

“So disarming was the salesgirl that I succumbed to her gospel and ordered mango sorbet”


POLISH YOUR POLISH

POLISH: TAKE A NUMBER

It's a tricky language alright, but at least learning the numbers is simple, right? Wrong. On the count of three please... BY JAY MARTIN

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oint one: In Polish, numbers are not your friend. We’ll come back to this. But now that we’ve got that clear, let’s have a go at them anyway. Starting at the very beginning: one is jeden (YE-den). Or, in plural, jedne. Hang on, there’s a plural form of one? See point one. You’ll also commonly hear the word raz. It means ‘time’ and it’s where a very useful Polish phrase comes from: jeszcze raz (YESH-cheh raz). That means “one more time,” and is handy if, for example, you’ve had a round of drinks and would like “the same again.” And no-one will notice if you’re slurring – also handy if one more time turns into, say, ten more times. Two is dwa. If you’d like a table for two, you can say, “dwie osoby,” or “dla dwóch.” Notice that neither of these actually use the word dwa. Refer to point one. Three is trzy, which is pronounced ‘t-she’ all in one syllable. Good luck with that one. As in Plac Trzech Krżyzy, Three Crosses Square. But why is trzy now trzech? If you have to ask, you may not have read point one. Please do so. Four can be cztery (ch-TER-y), except if there’s not four of something, when it’s czterech, or when it’s just four men (czterej), or it’s a group of baby animals (czworo). I’m not making this up. I don’t think I could. Punkt jeden. There are some other numbers. They’re all hard too. So let’s cut to the most important: sto, meaning 100. And here we find the one context where the words ‘Polish,’ ‘numbers,’ and ‘friends’ all go together happily: Sto lat. This cute, simple little phrase means “100 years,” and it’s how Poles wish someone a happy birthday. And unless

you are still on your way from the airport, you’ll recognise this refrain: Sto lat, sto lat, niech żyje żyje nam (nyek zhee-ye zhee-ye nahm), (repeat) jeszcze raz, jeszcze raz (yesh-cheh raz), niech żyje żyje nam, niech żyje nam. It’s meaning goes like this: “100 years, 100 years, let him/her live 100 years for us, once again, (recognise that from above?), let him/her live 100 years for us.” (I’ll just point out that it’s not, as one of my friends thought – nie żyje nam, which would mean something like “she/he has been dead for a 100 years, for our sake.” Although there are times you might want to sing that.)

“There are some other numbers. They’re all hard too” Sto lat is kind of like “Happy Birthday” and “For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow” rolled into one. But where Poles and sto lat are concerned, any excuse will do. I’m convinced they actually come into this earth belting it out. Once someone starts, the whole bar will often join in. And, while I have not made friends with all aspects of Polish just yet, get a few vodkas and pickled herrings under your belt, start singing this song, and I defy you to feel like the whole world isn’t your friend. Sto lat! www.warsawinsider.pl

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STROLLING THE NEIGHBORHOOD

GOING GREEN IN UJAZDÓW

Overshadowed by Łazienki and forgotten in the guidebooks, the Ujazdów area is an unsung gem in the center of town. BY ALEX WEBBER

Piękna

Jazdów

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Łazienkowska MAP AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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arring a brief detour around Skaryszewski last issue, there’s been an undeniable urban slant to our recent explorations. Well not today mister. With summer in swing we’re snooping and sleuthing in and around the green belt that makes up the bulk of the Ujazdów sector. And what a walk it is. Nowhere in Warsaw is safe from a story, and this district has a better story than most – one filled with secret surprises and hidden glories. Ladies and gentlemen, start your engines. For the sake of simplicity, I advise commencing your stroll around Ujazdów at the main source: Ujazdowski Castle (1). First off, and visitors would do well to temper their expectations of a traditional castle; no moats and dungeons here, instead this place follows an almost chateau-style design. Completed in 1637 to serve as a residence for Władysław IV, it never really captured the imagination of the regent classes – and with Łazienki next door, who can blame them; Władysław rarely visited, and future monarchs paid only scant regard to it. Donated to the Polish army in 1794, it would serve as a military hospital for the best part of 130 years. Zip forward to 1944, and it faced inevitable demolition at the hands of... no prizes for guessing. Although some of the structure survived, the post-war govt. saw nothing wrong in finishing the job. It was only decades later in the '70s that the authorities decided to rebuild the castle in its former style. Since 1981, it's served as the seat of the CSW Gallery, one of the leading contemporary galleries in Europe. Installations change frequently, and it's worth settling down for liquid refreshment in the on-site restaurant to judge the offer before entry. In fact,

“Nowhere in Warsaw is safe from a story, and this district has a better story than most... ” it's worth settling down for liquid refreshment regardless. In the shape of Qchnia Artystyczna the castle boasts a venue of considerable verve; pick a place on the terrace, and enjoy the views of the park below. Having taken your time to admire the park, visit it. A steep stairwell takes you down to Agrykola (2), and I suggest following the canal that runs dead center. Eventually you'll reach Stadion Wojska Polskiego (3), the home of Legia Warszawa. The stadium bears the benefit of considerable investment, yet in spite of the comprehensive plastic surgery, the atmosphere can still be a little Planet of the Apes come match day. A less primitive specie of fans can be found in Łazienkowska 3, the club bar, and whether there's a match or not, football fans are going to want to visit the museum. Enter via the North Stand (Trybuna Północna) to find an Aladdin’s Cave that follows the story of Legia from their inception in 1916, right up to the current day. Having finished this sporting detour, make your way back up Łazienkowska until you reach the intersection with the Trasa Łazienkowska (4) screeching overhead. www.warsawinsider.pl

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STROLLING THE NEIGHBORHOOD

When it opened in 1974, it became an attraction in itself. Touted as the first urban expressway in Poland it was promoted as evidence of socialist progress. Tens of thousands turned up to its opening with Soviet leader Brezhnev, and Polish First Secretary Gierek, riding down it in open-top cars triumphantly waving to the gathered crowds. In the years that followed it would feature in countless songs and films, and its standing was such tourists would be driven down it on topless buses. Over the next few years, it formed part of the itinerary for visiting dignitaries on their way from Okęcie Airport – Pope John Paul II was carried down here on his first papal visit to Poland, in a Popemobile hastily converted from a delivery van. While the underpass running below looks a little putrid, and almost Stygian in its gloom, that’s also worth a look – in the last few years it’s become the principal canvas for Warsaw’s urban artists, and the caliber of graffiti and stencil art is well worth the pause. From here follow the underpass until reaching an exhausting stairwell cut into the hill face. With a few twists, turns and asthmatic attacks, you’ll eventually reach the junction between Gornośląska and Jazdów. It’s Jazdów you want, heading past the German Embassy until you reach a brilliantly unknown housing project called Osiedle Fińskich Domków (5). Consisting of 28 (originally 200+) wooden houses, it’s an amazing district, and not unlike stepping into a rural village. Constructed in 1945 to house architects and engineers involved in the rebuilding of Warsaw, these buildings were imported from Finland and only meant as a temporary housing measure. That such an oasis of calm exists bang

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“Set next to its ornamental neighbors, the building is conspicuous by its catastrophic ugliness” in the city defies expectation, and you won’t be the first to leave the area promising to move there. If you do, you’ll be renting from the city – they own the properties. You may also be in for a nasty surprise; vibrations from the Trasa Łazienkowska are slowly eroding the soil and putting the development at very real risk.

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ead back to whence you came via ul. Lennona. Named after the Beatle in ’91, the mouth of the road has a DIY memorial to George Harrison (ie, some posters), and a Lennon wall (6) where fans and non-fans have scrawled their views (“I’ve just shot John Lennon – Christina”). Don’t get your hopes up, it’s a poor second best to the one in Prague, though the story itself is at least worth a line: on the first anniversary of Lennon’s death, and with Martial Law just days away, Beatles fans marched down here smoking weed and singing “Give Peace a Chance,” before erecting an ad-libbed sign claiming this hitherto nameless street as ul. Lennona. Ten years later, their action was given official approval.


Straight ahead, and you’re simply not going to miss the monument that towers in front. Soaring 32 meters in the air, this is, to give it its full name, The Monument to the Home Army and the Polish Underground State (7). Raised in ’99 it’s inscribed with the names of military units and politicians who made the ultimate sacrifice. Parliament (8) (the Sejm) lies nearby. Most of it was leveled during the war, and was rebuilt between ’49-52 to a design by Bohdan Pniewski. Inspired by Venice’s St. Mark’s Square, yet also influenced by both Modernism and the Socialist Realist style of the day, the complex is a masterpiece, though possibly best not appreciated if there’s a protest outside. The proximity of parliament isn’t the only reason behind any security presence you may sense. The area bristles with national banners, many of them fluttering from wedding cake palaces. The one salient exception to this is the US Embassy (9); sat next to its ornamental neighbors, the building is almost conspicuous by its sheer, catastrophic ugliness. The Czetwertyński Palace which once stood on the site actually survived the war, and was originally rented by the rightful owners to Polish Radio. It was while under arrest on charges of spying (for the US), the Czetwertyński’s found their ancient family home confiscated by the state and sold from under them to the US govt. The rest is history: in a bid to build a spy-proof fortress, the Americans bulldozed the palace in the early sixties and replaced it with what can only be described as a candidate for Warsaw’s grimmest building. The Czetwertyński’s, incidentally, are still pursuing

their restitution claim. As you ponder this, make your way back to the start point via Ujazdowski Park (10). Unveiled to the public on August 10, 1896, it’s one of the most elegant parks around – think of it as Łazienki in miniature. Landscaped by Franciszek Szanior, the pathways are lined with decorative streetlamps, ponds and alcoves, and the park features, amongst numerous sights, a bridge designed by the 19th Century English engineer William Lindley. Also of note, the swooning statue of Ewa sculpted by Edward Wittig, a onetime student of Rodin.

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ith your walk practically over, reward yourself. Two choices spring to mind. Café Rozdroże and Stef. Rozdroże (11) is sheer PRL excess, a glorified glass/concrete box designed by Jerzy Cander. While the interiors have since been savaged by a crass makeover, lovers of seventies swagger will appreciate its exterior form – deemed so cutting edge it was awarded the zany sounding Mr. Warsaw prize for architecture in 1974. If the crowds are too thick, then panic not. Stef (12), in one of the castle outbuildings, is an arty alternative filled with oddball personalities. Order a beer, and enjoy.

DRINK & DINE Rozdroże Cafe Al. Ujazdowskie 6, www.rozdroze.pl Łazienkowska 3 ul. Łazienkowska 3, www.lazienkowska3.com Qchnia Artystyczna ul. Jazdów 2, www.qchnia.pl Steff Cafe ul. Jazdów 1

www.warsawinsider.pl

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CULINARY PROFILE

BEHIND THE KITCHEN DOORS...

In the first part of our culinary profiles, the Insider chews the fat with celebrity Master Chef Kurt Scheller. BY ALEX WEBBER You're known for excellence, but you must have seen some right disasters in the kitchen? Oh yes. My biggest? Probably when I was cooking for President Aleksander Kwaśniewski. He was with the Chilean President, and the dessert really wasn't what it should have been. I threw a plate... I was shouting and screaming so much his security staff came in to the kitchen to calm me down. Yes, those were the last days of my pastry chef... What's the best food for a hangover? I don't know. I don't drink to that level – you know why? Every time I do, there's always someone who wants to cut this moustache off. I don't like these sorts of surprises when I wake up. Which chef's inspire you? Peter Kronberg at the InterContinental Hotel Park Lane. Then there's Auguste Escoffier – for us cooks, he taught us everything: ''the King of Chefs, and the chef of Kings.” Favorite cookbook? Pauli Lehrbuch Der Küche is the chef's bible. When I was studying, we learned it inside out from A to Z. Describe the perfect restaurant? Without fail, a perfect restauarant is one where the owner is there. There's too many in Warsaw where customers never see the owner. The owners don't care, they just want to make money.

What are Warsaw restaurants doing right, and by the same mark, what are they doing wrong? The variety is great, maybe too great. There's also too many sushi restaurants. Now I like sushi, but there aren't enough which are any good. The prices are also wrong in Warsaw. Rents are too high, costs are too high, and prices in general are too high.

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Last great meal in Warsaw? Hmm... Butchery & Wine was quite good. Actually, very good. They've done a great job, and you get real return on your money. Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J u l y 2 0 1 1

Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller has been wooing local foodies since arriving to Warsaw back in ’91. A notorious perfectionist, Scheller was the driving force behind kitchens in the Bristol, Sheraton and Rialto, and opened his own culinary academy in 2002. With this in mind, he seemed a top candidate to kick off our new running series of culinary profiles. For more on cooking with Kurt, and the course schedule, check www.schelleracademy.pl.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

You came here in '91. A lot has changed... Completely. Everything. Back in the beginning you'd be scared to eat out. The waiters had their hands in their pockets, and they clearly didn't care. The cooks weren't actually bad, but they just didn't have the chances to develop as they do now. In those times, the only light at the end of the tunnel shone from the Marriott.

Kurt Scheller is... Obsessed with quality. Cooking is fun, but you should buy the best products; and cheap isn't cheap, it's more expensive. If you buy cheap tomatoes, guess what, you'll end up throwing most of them away and losing money on wastage... I care what's on a plate, not on a price tag. I'm also very straight with my people. There's been times I've over-reacted, and times I've blown up. I've calmed down a lot, and here in my Academy, it's a different environment entirely.


EATING OUT Restaurants, Cafes & Wine Bars

THIS MONTH:

Cur rent issue: 01-31 July 2011 w w w.w arsawinsider.pl SECTIONS African. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . American & Tex-Mex . . . . Asian & Indian. . . . . . . . . . Balkan & Russian. . . . . . . Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . French. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Greek/Middle Eastern. . . International & Fusion. . .

* 11 updates

RATINGS p. 39 p.40 p. 41 p.42 p. 30 p.43 p. 43 p.44

Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Japanese & Sushi. . . . . . . Kosher & Jewish. . . . . . . . Latin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Polish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Seafood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . Food Shops. . . . . . . . . . . .

p. 51 p.54 p. 56 p.66 p.36 p. 56 p.35 p.57

The following symbols (A1) map location are a rough indicator ideal for business as to how much you meetings can expect to pay for take a date a main course. child friendly $ mains under vegetarian friendly zł. 30 delivery $$ mains breakfast menu zł. 30-55 free wifi available $$$ mains zł. 55+ BOW 2010 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

St. Jacques ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SAINT JACQUES

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“The lamb was cooked perfectly, falling off the bone at the stroke of a knife”

arsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, and the last few months suggest there’s mileage yet in this affair. This relationship with all things Gaul reached its apex during the age of Napoleon, and his armies were celebrated as liberators as they marched towards Moscow. To this day, the historic bond holds firm, reinforced by the legacy of exiles and émigrés like Chopin and Curie. Strangely though, French food has never taken foothold in Warsaw. Of course, that’s not entirely surprising – it’s a damn hard cuisine to replicate. Michel Moran has done so in his namesake restaurant, but other ventures have enjoyed less success. Why bother with a complicated cuisine, restaurateurs seem to say, when we can palm off the public with sushi and suchlike. So welcome to St. Jacques, a French bistro that’s here to redress the balance. First things first, and I couldn’t help but wonder if they’ve blundered with the location; but if the owner wasn’t aware Świętokrzyska would be turned into a construction site, then he’s not letting on. Yet even with this handicap, the signs are encouraging. Warsaw’s French restaurants tend to be formal endeavors; rigid venues designed for ceremonial occasions. SJ differs in that respect, with an intimate atmosphere that plays the right notes: miscellaneous flea market finds sprinkle the interior, with black and whites of Paris layered on the walls. The service isn’t bad either; my French lexicon is limited to ooh la la, so to hear the waitress conversing in French, Italian, English and Polish made my brain overheat. My poor head, I thought it was going to explode when I realized this knowledge of languages was equaled by her knowledge of food. Now I’ve got an aversion to slithery garden monsters, so it was on her prompt I sidestepped the snails and forewent the frogs legs, opting instead for a starter of scallops (zł. 32). Excellent. Mains were similarly successful. I ordered lamb shank (zł. 44) while the GF chose mussels (zł. 34). The lamb was cooked perfectly, falling off the bone at the stroke of a knife. The mussels meanwhile were fresh, and served in a delicious white wine sauce. If there was one complaint, it’d be the absence of fries – an essential condiment to this gracious dish. But you know what, that’s small fry. In the shape of St. Jacques the people of Warsaw have a restaurant of note; enjoy it. (AW)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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July RESTAURANTS

EATING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl

cafés

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Quirky café full of antiques and theater props by the Grand Operahouse. Amor (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 22 825 0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl. Open Sun-Mon 12:00-21:00, Tue-Thu 10:00-21:00, Fri 10:0022:00, Sat 11:00-22:00. Chocoholics beware! One step inside this chocolate parlor is all it takes to become a lifelong fan. Definitely no place for those on a diet, no matter what the light salads and fresh soups may suggest. Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826 4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00. A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles. Bily Konicek Café (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490 846. Open daily 9:00-20:00. Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite on a rainy day. Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods. Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826 8559. Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in a bookish interior. Cafe Borgia (H4) ul. Francuska 50, tel. 22 468 8554. Open 9:00-21:00. A New York-style Bakery with gleaming marble counters and mosaic tile floors and a classic black/white look. The Borgia offers a wide range of freshly baked pastries, delicious cupcakes, homemade granola, fresh lemonade and high class Italian coffee. And it’s healthy, too, with no preservatives or stabilizers added to the baking process.

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Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Café Colombia (D4) Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 628 0226. Open 7:00- 23:00. An exotic, colorful café that gains approval for the use of fine-grade Colombian coffee apparently purchased direct from the producer; the luxury Hacienda Bombona is particularly noteworthy.

Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624 0196. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts.

Café Lemon Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6 , tel. 22 829 5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24hr. A large selection of salads, pastas and snacks. Everybody can find something suitable for their tastes. Café Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00. This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display. Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617 8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat- Sun 7:30-22:00. A favorite rendez-vous spot for all the French-speaking folk dwelling the area. Salads, quiches and pancakes as well as fresh pastries baked on the premises. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

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Caffe Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629 0189. www.balgera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00.The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long.

Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:0024:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Providing stiff competition for all the other cafés in the area, Cava offers a wide selection of coffees including the premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. One of the true pleasures of spring is the Coffee Karma terrace; order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7101. Open daily 9:00-23:00. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcolored and flouncy French queen’s private >>


July RESTAURANTS

EATING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >>chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit at any time of day. Czarny Motyl (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964, www.czarnymotyl.pl. Open daily 12:00- to last customer. An intriguing cross between a chilled-out bar and a cafe, this is a good spot to grab a light meal, a pre-party drink or post-work sheesha.

herself, Magda Gessler. Surprisingly low prices, despite the premium location. Fiku Miku Café (H4) ul. Zwycięszców 32. Open 10:00-19:00. A kid-friendly café filled with stuffed animals and wooden toys. The menu is a good, simple affair that involves shakes and smoothies, salads, quiche and slim line cakes.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers.

Delikatesy Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, tortes, and pastries from the Queen of Cakes

Flora Caffe (E7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232 642. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats. Also open in chillier weather.

HOT FIND

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. Garaż Café (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858 2693, www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:00-17:30. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a renovated garage. But the fresh, substantial salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up. Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

La Bodega ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 22 745 4610. Open 12:00-last guest.

“Not even this unusual combination of miso and cod could throw the waiter off his stride ”

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few decades ago, merely lingering too long outside this building could lead to a less than pleasant chat with some less than pleasant chaps. Back then this was the HQ of the Communist Party, and not a happy place. Post-1989, this became the nerve center of capitalism, home of the Warsaw Stock Exchange. But now the WSE has moved next door, this is rapidly becoming the home of high-end consumerism. Planted just down from the Ferrari dealership and directly opposite the Armani megastore is La Bodega, the latest competitor for the wallets of Varsovian wine lovers. Sadly the words ‘reasonably’ and ‘priced’ are not ones that spring to mind when it comes to wine joints in town. So it’s a very pleasant surprise to see that wine by the glass here starts at just zł. 9. Although not as pleasant as the very cheeky Toro that the other half opened her account with, especially at zł. 12 a glass. If you don’t know your Red Bull from your red wine or if you never stray from the safety of Shiraz and Chardonnay, the smartly aproned staff can guide you round the options; even difficult questions like “Which wine will go well with the curry and scallop soup?” will be expertly dealt with (and it was a decent spot of soup too). If you do know your onions, there are a good number of tempting ways to damage your credit card. The tuna steak with ratatouille and aubergine mousse was zł. 59 well spent, perhaps a touch overdone but the chili fries more than made up. My partner’s other choice of cod with miso and stir-fried vegetables in dashi bullion kept up the oriental theme she’d picked out of the mainly Mediterranean menu. But not even this unusual combination of miso and cod could throw the waiter off his stride (a bright offering from the Costa Brava went perfectly with both flavors). All things considered, it’s hard to find a fault with La Bodega. Factor in the wine shop at the back of the restaurant (flat corkage fee of zł. 25 per bottle for anything you can’t wait to get home to drink) and you find more reasons than plenty to pay it a visit. (CS)

PHOTOGRAPH COURESTY OF LA BODEGA

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CAFÉS

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Herba Thea (C8) ul. Bruna 20, tel. 22 825 8814, www.herbathea.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00. Just a 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off of Al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:0022:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Café” Winner

old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge! Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621 6557, www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 9:00-22:00; Thur-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting. Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616 1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz.

Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869 9784, mob. 502 669 376, www.kalimba.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-20:00. Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota. pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful,

Kredkafe (E6) al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater

Lunch time

Take-away option

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where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. Le Chocolate (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

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Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 77 77. Still under wraps as we prepared for press, though from the emails we’ve received it’s safe to gather a new cafe is on its way – and bang on our favorite crossroad. Breakfast, smoothies, coffee in a laidback environment they say. Check back next month we say. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t >> get the impression you’ll catch fleas from

Quality

Book parties with us

www.paparazzi.com.pl ul. Mazowiecka 12

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July RESTAURANTS

EATING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Mood Café (D10) Al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898 3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00. Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must! Mucha nie siada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669. Open daily 10:00-22:00. This friendly little café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the

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neighborhood, it’s a welcome addition. Has WiFi, a cheerful air and a menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594, www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same.

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Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826 0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:0023:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theater Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl. Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically


WINE BARS

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French cakes, croissants and pastries. No piekarnia can come even close. Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. A must for café-junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from. Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon- Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods. Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 4934. Open Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:0024:00. Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova, as well as a small selection of equally delectable main courses. Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:3021:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30. It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack. Decent coffee, but it’s yet to entirely imitate the standards they’re known for.

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Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes. Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635 9023, www.tolubie.pl. Open daily 10:00-22:00. The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended. Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621 7799, www.tokcafe.pl. Open daily 7:00-22:00. Perfect music for Monday mornings. Great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouth- watering selection of goodies for your sugar fix. TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) Al. KEN 95 (near metro Stokłosy), tel. 22 251 3274, www.tutu.waw.pl. Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s Ursynów district. Its name comes from the album that Miles Davis recorded in the 80’s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak. Vespa Café (D6) ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), tel. 22 825 5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00. A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office building. Unlimited free internet access and plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office.

is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this is guaranteed to be the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place in Hoxton, London. Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:00-17:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laidback atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes. Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00–22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very reasonably priced.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, Żywiciel (Żoliborz) tel. 22 320 2989, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.josephwinebar.pl. www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyThis hipster café has gained a solid following opened restaurant, bar and wine shop thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. features great atmosphere and amiable Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri center in a renovated factory allows you to 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun easily whittle away the hours. 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its Jung & Lecker (C5) offer with all day breakfasts (zł.9.90, coffee ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new simple food and excellent wines from Austria wine bar on ul.Emilii Plater 14 offers and beyond. minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course Charlotte (D6) menus. The shops’ wines are sourced pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon- directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Fri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel >> 22:00.Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star regions.

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July RESTAURANTS

EATING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine. Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412 3124. Open daily noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. Vinobilia w Rogatce (E7) Pl. Unii Lubelskiej 1, tel 022 423 4904, www.vinobilia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-21:00. Run by Frenchmen and set in a pre-war building. Choose among 12 different varieties of wine from all over France and nibbles. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl,

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tel. 22 625 4197. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 14:00-last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe. Winokracja (B2) ul. Karmelicka 19, www.winokracja.com, tel. 22 838 9015. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00. The interior is rather low-key, but the great selection of Italian and Spanish wines more than makes up for it. A free wine tasting is held a few times a month. Winiarnia Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 2327, www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bricks and girders lend a factory feel, while an Italian influenced menu poses plenty of dilemmas. Sunshine pours in through huge vertical windows, bathing this wine kingdom in plenty of light. Winowajca (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1, tel 503 083 450, www.winowajca.org. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-midnight; Sat 12:00-last customer, Sun 14:00-22:00. With an impossibly cool bar and a simple menu that changes daily (try the pumpkin soup), this new kid on the block promises to become a favourite hangout for the artistic types that haunt the neighborhood. Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 49998. Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop is aimed at promoting documentaries and reportage in all forms of media: books, film and photography. But don’t think the place is stuffy because of these heavy duty intentions; find big windows, a cool décor and a crowd tapping into iPhones and Macs.

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Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri

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12:00-15:00, Dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room restaurant is spectacularly situated directly opposite Łazienki Park in the Pałac Sobańskich, a prewar villa beautifully renovated some ten years ago. the addition of Executive Chef Jacek Grochowina has upped the ante substantially. Under his tutelage the restaurant snagged all of the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best European Cuisine” Winner Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.

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July RESTAURANTS

EATING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. The menu in this homey, elegant restaurant comprises fine traditional Polish fare with foreign influences and boasts an excellent reputation for both cuisine and service. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887 6520. Open 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and is known for dishing out some very generous portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka come highly recommended. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Now Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841 4552.

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Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $ Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 4A, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00last guest. There’s a new reason to go to old town, and that’s Karmnik. What was once a pokey tourist restaurant has been reinvented as a hip haunt for cool cats. The menu is decent, basic Polish, but it’s the art-mosphere that gets people coming back. Expect a variety of events going off inside vaulted interiors that are frequently full. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $

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MG Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva who sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet

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and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3-5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Towering, bumper portions of animals & veg plus low-cut prices keep this place rammed, while frothing Pilsner mugs and a circulating mountain band add an element of beery, good humor. $ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00–23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is pretty nice. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Polish Cuisine” Winner Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831 0259. Open 10:00-midnight.


POLISH/AFRICAN This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not. To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$ Restauracja Warszawska (E6) ul. Chopina 5a, tel. 22 628 8140, www.restauracjawarszawska.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Quite a mixed experience: the chicken liver salad is a delight but the zł.125 roast-suckling pig is more than disappointing… $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Kucharek (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7 (entrance at pl. Piłsudskiego), tel. 22 826 7936. Open 12:00 to last guest (the kitchen closes at 24:00). U Kucharzy has

expanded with a low-key bistro run by an allfemale cooking staff. Excellent pierogi, meat dishes and cakes. Not to mention, a great view of Piłsudski Square. $$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as “With the Cooks,” this is just what you get. Diners eat in the old kitchen and staff area of the grande dame Hotel Europejski. Served at the table straight from the pot or skillet, there is always a little extra for the hungry. It’s a favourite of the local art, banking and university crowds. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Lunch Deal” Winner U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Dinner Deal” Winner Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$

african

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest. Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the

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July RESTAURANTS

EATING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $

american & tex-mex

Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is the place to find one. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s

best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for mega-size portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Breakfast Deal” Winner Mississippi Blues (H4) ul. Meksykańska 3, tel. 605 887 857. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Set down a side street in Saska, Zippy Blues is tiny, and we fully anticipate that being a problem once word gets out just how good it is. Decorated sparingly, the menu here includes homemade sauces, bread baked on-site, tasty Koreb beer as well as mains that number fantastic burgers and ribs of legend. Phenomenal. $

HOT FIND

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

Valadier ul. Łowicka 37, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

“...in the kitchen, you’ve every right to expect excellence”

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our first impression of Valadier is that the design inside this impressive house is spot on: the place simply drips opulence. Set in a pristine wedding cake villa, the interiors have a country manor look that immediately suggests a top band experience awaits – and with the acclaimed Paweł Żółtański (formerly of legendary out-of-town restaurant, Villa Czersk) in the kitchen, you’ve every right to expect excellence. The culinary theme is “Italian simplicity, French precision and Polish flavors” and the menu reflects that. Seven starters and eight mains but they blend the three nations together. My duck carpaccio (zł. 25) was good, though admittedly low on the promised Mazurian honey. Partner, however, had the perfect starter: steak tartare with quail egg (zł. 35), tender meat that was finely chopped instead of the usual mincing to give a very enjoyable texture. Following next, and Partner’s crab branade (zł. 28) had some good flavors, though paled significantly to what arrived next; my cream of celeriac soup (zł. 18) was hugely enjoyable and served with utterly divine ravioli (pike, cep and tarragon). For mains, the veal chops (from the Podhale region) were every bit as good as I expected, and served with wonderful potato fondants filled with leek fondue. But this time it was Partner who had the edge, with the Wielkopolska guinea fowl (zł. 58) proving the highlight of the meal: an exquisite balance of flavors and simply superb meat, well accompanied by potato rosti stuffed with mushroom & rocket. Ten out of ten. The bill without wine came to zł. 296; expensive, yes, but judging by the wellheeled clientele price tags aren’t an issue; though they might be for the accounts department… All in all you’re very much left with the impression that Warsaw has a very favorable addition to its culinary scene, one which specifically appeals to the more stately of occasions. (RT)

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VALADIER

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AMERICAN/ASIAN asian & indian

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:30-22:00. Bland, sterile interiors, but the curries are brilliant – the vindaloo hits a red-hot danger level that’s unmatched in town. Nepalese, Thai and Chinese dishes are also available. $ Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123 , tel. 22 626 9002. Open daily 11:0-22:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. The classiest of Chinese eateries. A beautiful and traditional interior gives a great look at Chinese history and culture, perfectly complimented by a sophisticated menu. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-

23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. As a lavish gallery and restaurant in one, Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $ Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms

decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties. Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ India Cookhouse (D4) ul. Złota 9, tel. 22 499 0990, www.indiach.com. Open 11:00-23:00. A highly decent offering with some spicy balti dishes and an agreeable butter chicken. There’s a café cool look here, with top-tobottom windows and a stark white design; no scented joss sticks or gold plate Buddhas here. A promising start somewhat tempered by inexperienced servers. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The most upmarket Indian choice in Warsaw, and with prices to prove it. But they take the competition seriously, and have upped the game accordingly. Start with a tomato tea soup, before checking out new additions like the mutton pepper fry. Never, ever short of excellent. $$ Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al.Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 22 696 3300, www. lemongrass.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00. Instead of the ubiquitous pasta station, you can order your soup starter to taste and watch it be put together. The Peking Duck station offers customized oh-so-thin pancakes rolled around succulent slices of the meat, spring onions, cucumber and palm sugar sauce. Ideal for business meets. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Brunch Deal” Winner Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0021:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. At first glance you may dismiss it as another

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July RESTAURANTS

EATING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> Vietnamese greasy spoon. Big mistake. It turns out this is the Warsaw branch of a global chain backed by a spiritual master (Chiang Hai). The reading material may look a bit cultish, but the food is delicious. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location. Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowgrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of

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luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Asian Cuisine” Winner Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is usually very good. $$ Q-Club (E6-7) Hyatt Regency Hotel, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-23:00. Fresh and funky Asian-themed menu, Q-Club offers a variety of gourmet buffet spreads from across the globe. $$ Royal India (B3) ul. Jana Pawła II 45A, lokal 43, tel. 22 487 7077, www.royalindia.waw.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. They didn’t cover themselves in glory when they first launched, but what was once regarded as one of Warsaw’s worse curries has shown signs of surprising improvement. The butter chicken gets good marks here, even if the still, solemn atmosphere doesn’t. $ $ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying panAsian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors. The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Newcomer” Winner Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

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Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce. Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. As the name notes, guests can look forward to tasty Asian fare with a strong Vietnamese accent. Interiors are modern and minimal, and a welcome withdrawal from the sleazy style common in most Asian haunts. The Peking duck is a strong starter, and the Pho soups are fab. $

balkan & russian

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Summer’s back, and with it one of the best gardens around. Enjoy a variety of dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place mind, and reservations are advised. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” $ Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880 724,


BALKAN/FRENCH/GREEK www.mala-gruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $

french

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Service” Winner Le Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 622 9646, www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties, such as Fleur de Marquis and Sainte Maure. Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www. prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531,

www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Paris street signs and city murals add a sprinkle of Gallic spirit to Saint Jacques, while back in the control room they’ve clearly got a team of some talent; the beef sirloin with foie gras sauce is admirable, though it’s the mussels in white wine that are the lingering memory. Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

greek & middle eastern

Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the

Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$ Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive- thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well- stocked deli. $

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updates

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese Kafta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Zorba (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.zorba.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$

international & fusion

Amadera (D4) ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. 22 505 9186, www.amadera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A sexylooking haunt with a white piano featuring amid a design that makes use of violet colors and smooth woods. Hunger busters include lamb chops and what’s reputed to be a delectable duck. The rumors are good: check back next month for our in-depth look. $$ Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

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Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424 6666, www.babalu.pl. Open noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay zł. 29,99 per person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-your-owningredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00- 22:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$

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Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. The steaks are beyond reproach inside B&W, a light, bright restaurant which you imagine both celebs and marketing execs using – both mammals were present on our visit. And if the butchery part is spot on, so is the wine angle. Trust the service, they know what’s best. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Confashion Cocktail Bar & Restaurant (D4) ul. Moliera 2/4, tel. 22 692 8585, www. confashion.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 19:00-02:00.The drinks are decent, the decor sleek and inviting. $$

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Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 624 7905. Open 10:30-midnight; Sat-Sun 12:30-midnight. A restaurant of faded vintage, yet worth checking for their Monday offer – steak for little over zł. 30, and fresh pints of Pils at zł. 3 per pop. Balding local business types have been coming here for years, and they can certainly sniff a deal. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. On Fridays, the Seafood of the World buffet dinner offers diners an unmatched spread of their favorite treats fresh from the sea. Downtown’s menu features an array of tasty dishes prepared by the InterContinental’s new executive chef Thorsten Hoeck. Languorous Sunday Brunch. $$ Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencja.pagi.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:00. In a city saturated with sushi, pasta and pierogi, there’s always room for a restaurant that knows and respects its culinary roots, and aims to re-establish the simple sensory pleasures of predominantly local and superlatively fresh seasonal ingredients. $$

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Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. Soon celebrating their first birthday, Flaming are being touted as one of the best places in town. In fact, some insiders claim it the best. Find a strong international offer inside interiors that could have been styled by Ralph Lauren. $$ Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635 0931. Open 12:00-23:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices. Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$

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TASTING THE EXOTIC

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ow celebrating their fourteenth year of business, Le Cedre have outlived all but a handful of Warsaw restaurants. This longevity alone makes it something of an institution, yet is all the more surprising considering its status as one of the first restaurants in town to embrace the innovative and exotic. Serving as Poland’s premier source of Lebanese food, here’s a restaurant that others would do well to imitate. The original concept of Le Cedre was born one night over drinks. Tony Nasr, a Lebanese native, had arrived in ’96 to act as the Food & Beverage figurehead at the Bristol Hotel. He takes up the story: “Late one evening I found myself talking to my colleague (and current business partner). Maybe we should give this a shot ourselves, I said to Jimmy, running a restaurant.” The rest is history. Le Cedre opened the following year, and has since become one of the enduring stalwarts on the culinary scene. “In those days you just took the first location you found,” says Tony, “and while the lack of surrounding offices made lunchtime slow, we found people were really excited to check the destination in the evening.” By people, he means foreigners. “It was all ex-pats at the beginning,” he remembers, “the Poles weren’t

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familiar with this cuisine, and given the choice would prefer something familiar, something Italian or Greek.” But the steady stream of foreigners changed that, spreading the word to their Polish colleagues. Fourteen years on, Tony claims the footfall is now 60% in favor of the natives. The customer demographic isn’t the only thing that has moved with the years. Having changed look three times, Le Cedre are currently settled on an opulent look that’s a firm nod to Middle Eastern indulgence. Decked with frescoes and water pipes, you half expect to see a train of camels passing by outside. You won’t, of course, but if you crane your neck you might see the trio of bears kept by the city zoo nearby. Yet for the real Lebanese experience, consider booking one of the booths: either ‘The Sultan’ or ‘The Princess’. Sumptuously sprinkled with cushions and drapes, they’re a lavish environment for the feast that awaits. Unsurprisingly they’re a group favorite, which is another area where Le Cedre excels. “The very nature of Lebanese cuisine makes it perfect for groups,” says Tony, “there are so many small dishes it’s common to see groups ordering then sharing the spoils.” A look at the menu confirms

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI.

Warsaw’s growing stock as a gastronomic hotbed can’t be questioned. Even so, it’s one of the oldies that’s leading by example and showing how it’s done.


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TABBOULEH SALAD INGREDIENTS 1 kg of parsley 0.5 kg of tomatoes 2 onions 200g of crushed wheat lemon juice (from two and a half lemons) 100g of olive oil Finely chop six bunches of parsley along with the tomatoes and onions. Soak the wheat in cold water for a while, then remove and rinse. Mix all the ingredients together, add olive oil, lemon juice, a big spoon of salt and a couple of mint leaves.

the sheer amount of variables, with a choice of over 45 plus hot and cold starters. And it’s not just in-house groups that get to enjoy them: “We can cater to anywhere in Poland,” adds Tony, “from one person up to five thousand.” Better still, the food delivers on its promise. The spices are sourced from abroad, with Tony personally visiting his homeland twice a year to stock up on produce. Taking pride of place, is the Tabbouleh salad; the national dish. “You’ll find it on every table back home,” says Tony, “it’s seen as an essential part of the dining experience.” Using the same recipe since they launched, the Tabbouleh is every bit the success it is back in Lebanon. But while being in a group maximizes the enjoyment, it’s by no means a necessity. The oven baked lamb is as good as any you’ll find, though for first timers the mixed grill offers an interesting inroad into the Lebanese kitchen. For dessert, follow Tony’s advice and finish with Ousmallieh, a rich creamy afterthought that acts as the ideal conclusion. The food has been winning plaudits for years, and the number of followers who’ve been eating here from the start emphasizes the point. Yet there’s more to Le Cedre than food alone – it’s an experience. “Lebanese people live to enjoy life,” laughs Tony, “we’ve known conflict, and through this we’ve learned how to embrace life.” Proof, if any is required, arrives each Friday night in the shape of a belly dancer, a show best enjoyed with one of fifteen Lebanese wines found in stock. Treat yourself. Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. (Fully air-conditioned)

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Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches. See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Galeria & Restauracja Zadra (C2) ul. Gen. Wł. Andersa 29, tel. 22 831 9668, www.galeriazadra.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Not one inch of Zadra has been spared from the owners hobby – art. Fortunately it’s pretty good, and the result of decades spent collecting. As a gallery it’s worth perusal, but as a restaurant it’s even better. The steak is excellent, and the creme brulée a fine afterthought. $$ Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$

clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Groole (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 52, www.groole.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. Good news for the economy diner, Groole serve delicious jacket potatoes in a simple space set through a tight corridor. The choice of fillings is scant, but for price-toquality it’s impossible to fault. $

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H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com. Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $

Inside (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 695 940 535, www.inside-restaurant.pl. Open daily 10:00-21:00. A new location with quality food that’s affordable and tasty. You can feel the freshness of ingredients in every bite you take and the staff is nice, friendly and profes Grill & Co (B9) sional. If you’re looking for an international ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), fusion of tastes this is the place for you. Visit tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open their website and you will receive zł.10 off of sun-Thurs 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-last any order exceeding zł.50 (valid Mon-Fri after :DUVDZ,QVLGHUBUHNODPDB[PPSGI guest.Featuring plexiglass seats and 15:00 and Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00).

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Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887 8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Cooking becomes art in La Rotisserie, an impeccable restaurant with a sterling rep. Bossing it all is Paweł Oszczyk, a doyenne of the local culinary scene, and his interpretations of French cuisine prove second-to-none. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bathhouse is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramic tiles. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy’ flair. An extensive French and Italian wine selection and creative desserts. $$$ Love Bagels (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 50, tel. 511 818 957. Open 9:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. An eat-on-thestreet venture where fresh bagels are handed to customers through a mysterious, little hatch – the New York bagel is spot on. Office delivery as well. $ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie

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Food is our passion. Preparing, serving and enjoying a delicious meal is always inspiring. The essential elements are: honest cooking, which can be traced back to the freshest ingredients; a great selection of wines, a welcoming atmosphere - we want our guests to feel at home, not to stand on display.

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22 Żurawia str., 00-515 Warsaw, tel. +48 (22) 502 31 18, opening times: Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00 www.butcheryandwine.pl/en, www.facebook.com/butcheryandwine

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Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nomia Restaurant (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, tel. 22 831 4379, www.nomia.waw.pl. Open daily 10:00-24:00. Certainly the sexiest place to grab a bite in the New Town Square. Try the fried oyster mushroom, grilled oscypek or duck in orange sauce with apples. Great mojitos! $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest

INTERNATIONAL venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s too good for words.

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Prima Vera (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 406 2345, www.prima-vera.pl, Open daily 11:00-23:00. This Ukrainian joint boasts some great dishes from around the world, especially the carpaccio, thin-crust pizzas or simple chłodnik on warmer days. $ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2,

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Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 07:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$-$$$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty conventional mains. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best International Cuisine” Winner Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00, 18:00-22:30, Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops, or one of several wok choices. $$

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Shilla (Kabaty) ul. Wąwozowa 33, tel. 22 649 3376. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00. Your best bet for Japanese and Korean groceries. The catch is that the store is located in the backwaters of Kabaty. They sell furikake (flavour-enhancers for rice) as well as Japanese beverages like Asahi beer, Kirin lemon tea and iced coffee. $ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food. The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839 3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

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updates

Valadier (C9) ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$

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Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – the mussels are fantastic. $$

Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2388, www.yegoodefoode.pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce is YGF, quite probably the healthiest option in the city – nay, Poland. Even the soups are made using spring water. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/ bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$ Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839 8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl. Open 12:0022:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. $


ITALIAN Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00- 24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$ Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistro-zuzu. pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

italian

Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. Cornetti, fratetti, focaccia and panna cotta are just a few of melodic Italian treats

you’ll come across. With a large play area it’s great for kids. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00;

Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Book ahead. $$$ >>

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Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar. com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano (Służew) ul. Rzymowskiego 34, tel. 22 549 6501, www.giancarlo.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Everything you’d expect from an Italian restaurant. Frequented by local restaurant critics and TV cooks, one look at the restaurant’s menu is enough to get you feeling very hungry indeed. Go for the heavenly sole in gorgonzola-spinach sauce. $$$ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-midnight/last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. Decent house wine too. $ Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $

Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $

www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $

The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90.$$$

Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$

Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon- Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00- 23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/ dinner jaunt. $$

Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961. Open 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846 8737. Open 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $

La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $

Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $

Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open

Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877,

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Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559, www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and gorgonzola spinach on the side. $ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:0022:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849 5674, www.balgera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$


ITALIAN Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826 7676, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:0021:00. Good food and charming Italianthemed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewn about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni.pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Serving classic Italian favorites including

pizza, pasta and risotto, this newly opened restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended. Va Bene Ristorante (A9) ul. Pruszkowska 13, tel. 22 824 5060, www.vabene.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter

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Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners just be prepared to wait a while. $

japanese & sushi

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. Compared to competitors it looks a little unassuming, almost faded. The sushi is spot on though, and unlike some rivals they haven’t gone for the cut-price Polish chef option. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 828 0020,www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. This intimate little sushi restaurant in the pavilions behind ul. Nowy Świat sports chic decor, excellent sushi and good service. $ Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:30- 20:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

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Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $ Made In Japan (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 31, tel. 22 828 2637, www.madeinjapan.waw.pl. Open Sun-Wed 12:00-23:00; Thurs-Sat 12:00-24:00. This small sushi joint’s menu comes with set dishes of tasty sushi treats that can easily be shared between two. Service is speedy and friendly although the “authentic” Japanese cuisine is largely a Poles domain. Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44. tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point. Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$

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Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. SławojaSkładkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Sushi” Winner Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:0021:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

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updates

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >>

kosher & jewish

Menora (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, tel. 22 620 3751. Open daily 11:00-22:00. As an age-old community eatery, it’s cosy and homely in feel, despite the peeling interiors. Try the juicy lamb tangine or tangy turkey schnitzel and wash it down with the house speciality: Jankielówka, made of Soplica vodka. $$ U Samuela (B1) ul. Stawki 2, tel. 22 692 6217, www.restauracjausamuela.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-22:00. If nothing else, it’s worth coming here for views that stretch right across town. Set on Floor 38, the Jewish/European menu is inevitably overshadowed by glittering sights outside. With plenty of pork dishes on show, the Jewish authenticity is largely suspect. $$

latin

Argentina (E8) ul. Sandomierska 13, tel. 22 463 4788, www.argentina.com.pl. Open 11:00-midnight (dinner until 22:00). You may be wary of a restaurant that offers Tango workshops, but there’s no doubting Argentina have emerged as one of the great restaurants of recent times. Is it the best steak in Warsaw? Probably. The most reliable? Certainly. Tacky steakhouse furnishings have been waylaid for a simple, elegant finish, while diners are spoiled by a choice of a whopping nine steaks to slash through. $$$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. An ex-pat darling, and astoundingly popular with all ages; especially with the brunch bunch on a golden spring Sunday. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and better yet when chased with a margarita. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Latin Cuisine” Winner Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, Carmona has won blanket approval for what’s commonly understood to be the best Spanish food in Warsaw; the tapas are great, and you’ll find the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard. Featuring dark, midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows, it looks pretty smart as well. $

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El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ Espana To Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 892 0025, www.espanatotu.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. The younger, more elegant sister of Casa To Tu, find this more formal version in a courtyard off the main drag. Food reports are inconsistent, though we can vouch for the gazpacho. The interior looks the business as well, with a warren of warm chambers decorated in an inimitable Iberian style. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. Great decor and impressive service. The salsa is a bit on the bland side, but the salmon-spinach quesadillas and burgers are what keep us coming back. Plus the margaritas. $$ La Fiesta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, ul. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 621 3154, www.lafiesta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-02:00. A relaxed vibe and decent Mexican food inside a warming bolthole off Warsaw’s main shopping corridor. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven. The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Tapas Bar/Casa to Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 828 5890, www.casatotu.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Great cocktails and signature margaritas at the bar upstairs, a sprawling maze of cozy dining rooms downstairs. $$

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Taste Barcelona (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2086, www.tastebarcelona.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. A few venues have had a crack at making this address work, none have succeeded. Latest to face the hoodoo is Barcelona, a modern eatery with some Gaudi-style trappings and a Catalan menu. Overrated say some, but the fish dishes are good – try the salmon shashlyk. Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place looks great, complete with Corona bottle chandeliers and an adobe courtyard. But the authenticity hits the panic button with the menu, an almost baffling interpretation of Mexican food. There’s more cabbage than chili, and more salt than salsa. $$

seafood

Fish & Chips (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:0019:00. One of the ex-pat hits of 2010, and now suitably enlarged to cope with the custom. Serving fish’n’chips, battered sausage and all the staples of a dart players diet, the Anglophiles running this joint have it down to a tee – with the menu even including deep fried Mars Bars and Snickers. Even better, they’ve a range of import goodies that run from novelty sauces to West Country cider (see oppposite for more details). $ Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marineinspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$


KOSHER/LATIN/SEAFOOD/FOOD SHOPS specialty food shops

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Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese heaven, inc. Local varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (ul. Kostki Potockiego, open Sat 10:00-15:00). Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:3021:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Internet ordering also available. Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikredens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, check: www.kuchnieswiata. com.pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

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MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 13 07, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore.

Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood. Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. La Petit France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

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Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Lynchburg, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo ul. Egejska 17, ul. Emilii Plater 47 & Al. KEN 85

Pastas, cheese, hams, oils, chocolate and much, much more. Italy is the main representative here, though shoppers will also find goods from Spain and France.

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Polna Market ul. Polna 13. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. Zielony Żuczek ul. Wilcza 31, www.zielonyzuczek.pl. A brand new eco-deli in the heart of town. Free range and organic products also available. Żółty Cesarz ul. Bruna 34, tel. 22 825 2500, zoltycesarz.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat 8:00-15:00. A quality eco shop selling fruit and veg, free range and organic produce, as well as more random things like eco-warrior t-shirts, bongo drums and household accessories.

TOP SHOP Piccola Italia and Mediterraneo ul. Emilii Plater 47.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI.

ooking to fill the kitchen with some choice Italian foods? Look no further. With over 1,700 products, browsing here can get seriously dangerous to your wallet. In brief, you’re in for a treat. Cheeses from Lombardy, Calabrian fish, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and olives from Puglia – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. If nothing else, head here to pick up some fresh pasta. And the choice of foods isn’t Italian exclusive, find also products from both Spain and France. Also on ul. Egejska 17 and Al. KEN 85.

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GOING OUT Bars, Pubs & Clubs

THIS MONTH:

Cur rent issue: 01-31 July 2011 w w w.w arsawinsider.pl

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3 updates

SECTIONS bars & pubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 60

jazz clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p.63

clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 63

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

HOT FIND

Charlotte Pl. Zbawiciela (Al. Wyzwolenia 18), tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-24:00.

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lac Zbawiciela at the start of the millennium looked like The Land of the Living Dead, an abandoned zone fit for pox-ridden zombies. Standing on one side was a half-collapsed ruin, a rotting relic that had been left forgotten. And the rest wasn’t better, with blackened buildings that rattled with death. So what the hell happened? Flash forward ten years and P. Zee. looks like the experimental fusion of Hoxton and SoHo. For me Year Zero came with the opening of Plan B, Warsaw’s premier dumping ground for hipsters and hedonists. The area hasn’t looked back. Today it’s prime real estate, and evidence of this is provided by Charlotte. Make no mistake, it’s a cert as the hit of the summer, yet it’s clearly a haunt you’ll love or you’ll loathe. That’s down to the people, a captivating collection of the fittest and hippest. If you look like you’ve stepped from a Ralph Lauren casting then this is your place, and you’ll fit all the better with those keys to your Merc. Jangle them flamboyantly, before placing them prominently on the heavy wood table that

“Disregarding the whole exhibitionist, scene factor, Charlotte does what it does exceedingly well”

stands center stage. It’s on this clunky, communal fixture that the best of Warsaw gather to break bread – literally. The on-site bakery is fantastic, and knocks out baguettes and croissants of a quality that’s unknown on this side of Europe. Homemade chocolate spread and lavendar honey compliment the snacks, and taste all the better come evening when the gathering crowds trade their coffee for wine. And it’s at this point, when Pl. Zbawiciela glimmers gold in the dusk, that Charlotte looks her best. People watching just doesn’t get better: fauxmosexuals mince around in theatrical fashion, while willow-waisted waifs pose fox-like on chairs. Like I said, you’ll either love it or not... Disregarding the whole exhibitionist, scene factor, Charlotte does what it does exceedingly well. It looks and feels continental, even more so when soaking in the sun by the colonnades outside. Indoors, find a whitewashed room with a concrete floor and an unfinished look. Coffee machines hiss and spit in the background, while beleagured staff throw their hands in the air – it’s that sort of place, a chaotic piece of Paris plumped bang right in Poland. It’s cool, maybe too cool, but you’ve got to give them credit: Warsaw’s not seen the like of it before. (AW) >>

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July AFTER HOURS

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Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >>

bars & pubs

Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00. Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives. Alibi ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 22 629 2523. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. Another newish sports bar, Alibi’s strength lies in plenty of TVs (Sky Sports, yep), a generous floor plan, matey owner and a smoking area that’s seriously flexible. Oh, the location is grand central as well.

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Beirut ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. The interiors are hip and happening, with walls layered with cult album covers, documentary film posters and couple of pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv across the road). Lebanese themed, the beer is nonetheless Lithuanian, while the staff have an exotic look and elaborate hair. Brilliant. Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means this place is never short on footfall. Even so, you get the impression it’d prosper wherever; certainly not as consistent as Bierhalle, Warsaw’s other microbrewery still runs a close second. Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

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Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cult bar with arty performances and a

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battered look. The sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the summer patio to tonk back the Ciechan. Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest. Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters. Hattrick ul. Poznańska 38, tel. 22 465 1060, www.hattrickbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. No Sky Sports (boo), but nevertheless it’s a decent sports bar kitted out with football shirts and murals. The lingering aroma of chip fat aside, it’s not bad at all. The menu is passable (burgers, ribs, wings), and the beer even more so; forgo the Żywiec and opt straight for Ciechan. Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw, cultish hangout, popular with a nonconformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace. Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00. Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Irish Pub ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

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Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradley.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A firm ex-pat bulwark, and certainly the best pint of Guinness in the city. Built on a firm foundation of live sports, free-flowing beer and rapid fire banter this is every inch your trademark Irish pub. Come weekend, few places capture the ex-pat spirit better. Karmnik ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to. La Casa Del Habano (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 465 1275, www.lcdh.pl. Open Daily 11:00-22:00. Set up by the same folk who run the nationwide chain of Old Havana cigar stores, this compact Caribbean pleasure island caters to an older-skewed crowd of cigar aficionados, as well as contemporary tobacco enthusiasts itching to light up in style. The selection may be daunting, but the multi-lingual staffers are quick to assist in choosing the perfect smoke. La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, tel. 22 331 49 75, www.laplaya.pl. Mix-up surf-inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła. Legends ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place


(A1) map location take a date

that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838. Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone?

GOING OUT

 food live music

svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside. Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:001:00, Fri 12:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-2:00. Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-to-kill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Bar” Winner

Plac Zabaw ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Argykola). Meander your way through Park Agrykola and you have one of two outcomes: either you fall into a bush, or you make it to Plac Zabaw. The name translates as ‘Playground’ and it’s got a low-ley, open air set up in the wooded area under Trasa Łazienkowska. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come >>

Lorelei ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English. Meta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 826 4513. Open 11:006:00. Decorated with Brezhnev-era leftovers this commie-themed venue has everything from propaganda posters to a string of toilet rolls hanging from the wall. Blend in with the wobbly legged party monsters by mixing Żołądkowa vodka with their special mix, PRL-style orangeade. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639. Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:005:00.A student heavy, socialist leaning hangout, where laptops and portfolios are seen as must-have accessories. Pretty vast, but usually packed with hipsters straining to listen to seminars and screenings. Panorama Bar and Lounge Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00.Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a

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July AFTER HOURS

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Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. With the weather warming up, don’t be surprised to find the shenanigans spilling onto the concourse outside.

terrace is a summer clincher, but check the inside as well. Everything but everything is made from reusable materials – seats from shopping trollies, tables from street signs and a bar from books…

Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries.

Restaurant 99 (B4)  Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open daily 08:0023:00. This slick Warsaw fusion restaurant also has one of the best bars in the city, with expert service.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. One of its prime attributes is the fact that it’s open 24 hours and serves food/vodka shots/beer. You’ll find it packed to the brim at two, three, four and even five am. Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:0003:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

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Resort ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997. Open 12:00-last guest. What looks like a typically flashy theater zone bar is anything but. The

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Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest. Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell. Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Everything you see you’ll want to stroke. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw here are the drinks; enjoy elaborate cocktails fixed by an exhibitionist staff. Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch.pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically

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unbeatable in fact, and served inside cool, minimalist interiors. SomePlace Else ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 022 450 6707. Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. Now back after a refit last year SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs. Szparka Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370. Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list. Time Café (E4) ul. Smolna 40, tel. 604 595 323, www.timecafe.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. This timely treasure is hidden in a courtyard smack in the centre of the city. The interiors are partly industrial and partly vintage, which makes for a charmingly eclectic combination. Warsaw Tortilla Factory ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold;


GOING OUT they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A renovated railway ticket booth now houses one of Warsaw’s coolest bars. Organic beers, cheap shots, great music and a huge crowd of revellers spilling into the street makes it a great stop for those who want to avoid the club scene. Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

jazz clubs

Jazzownia Liberalna (D1)  ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635 3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00last guest. This place seems to have it all – location, great music, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that won’t intimidate. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

clubs

1500m2 (E-3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dawn-till-dusk electro events. The Bank (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 14, www.bankclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 18:00-24:00; Fri 18:0006:00; Sat 22:00-6:00. With four bars spread across 1,500 meters of dance space The Bank makes an impression alright. The place is huge, though you won’t need GPS to track down the lookers. The opening of this

mega club confirms Mazowiecka’s status as the street of now.

observed from behind the one-way mirror in the VIP room.

Buti Klub (D4) ul. Przeskok 2, tel. 22 827 0283, www.butiklub.pl. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-6:00. Billed as an ‘after-party’ spot, this slinky looking Buti features neatly laid out black/ white interiors, and music that includes funk, house, and some interesting rap nights where, according to the promo material, ‘all the wankstas & thug misses loose themselves.’

Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale is off the beaten path in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A sensual labyrinth of rooms decked out with exotic, elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties.

Cafe and Club Lemon (C3) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, www.clublemon.pl. Open 19:00-last guest. Located in the heart of the city, with good music and a great atmosphere. Café Bar Lemon is conveniently located next door, where you can eat something to build up more energy to return to the club for more fun. Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events. BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award El Presidente ul. Kredytowa 9, www.elpresidente.pl. Open 17:00-24:00, Fri 22:00-Last guest, Sat 22:00Last guest. A few dangly chandeliers embellish the breeze block interiors of El P, a late hour spot that’s great for squaring off a long, messy night. Conversations are conducted above the music via way of signs and monosyllables, but chances of hook-up are high. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits. The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. It’s tough work getting past the face check at Eve, but the rewards are ample: guys will think they’ve died and landed in Eden. Music varies between club and commercial hits, and the shenanigans are best

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00. Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice. Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you. M25 ul. Mińska 25, tel. 608 634 567, www.m25.waw.pl. Open Thur-Sat 21:00-last guest. Located inside an old city boiler house, M25 hosts a great selection of techno culture parties and miscellaneous events inside huge - you’ve guessed it - industrial interiors. Supposedly this place boasts the best sound system in town, and judging by the post-party tinnitus we’re inclined to agree. Check online regards clues to the latest party.

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July AFTER HOURS

GOING OUT

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. Located in the catacombs of the grandiose National Opera house, Opera Club has built its reputation based on a premium location. With perhaps the most impressive entrance of any of the clubs in Warsaw, it draws in young crowds on weekend nights and keeps them there until the early morning. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Club” Winner Ósmy dzień tygodnia (G9) ul. Czerska 12, tel. 508 111 221. Open daily 18:00-last guest. A huge, grungey dive club that’s become the latest hit among the uni-generation. Graffiti clad walls, warehouse trappings and a mega loud sound system complete the look. Entertainment ranges from hip hop sets and avant-garde film, to performances by esoteric bands like the Bi-Polar Bears. Piekarnia ul. Młocińska 11, www.pieksa.pl. Check Web

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for events. Go back a couple of dog years and you’d have heard some clubbers hailing Piekarnia as one of the best nights in CEE. So what went wrong? Well, the old faces grew up and went elsewhere. They’re being replaced by a new generation, and while Piekarnia has a long way to recover the glories of the past, we’re starting to hear good things once more. House, trance and electro enjoyed by a diverse spread of club characters. Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, wwwplatiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Powiększenie (F4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 503 118 088. Open 11:00-last guest. A low-key hangout that attracts mainly beer-loving student types. For

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fans of eclectic contemporary rock, electro and jazz, the downstairs stage regularly hosts cool local and international acts. Rich & Pretty (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, www.richandprettyclub.pl. Open daily 17:00-last guest.The biggest launch this year was the star-studded, and aptly named, Rich & Pretty. This five star haunt looks every inch the biz, with leather recliners, black/white art and a rose colored backlit bar. Being drop dead gorgeous gets you a long way here. Space Club ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:006:00, available for private events the rest of the week.A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks. Found in a former factory in Warsaw’s industrial belt, this leviathan even features a swimming pool and sushi bar.


TILL YOU DROP Boutiques, Fashion & Shopping Malls Cur rent issue: 01-31 July 2011 w w w.w arsawinsider.pl

THIS MONTH:

* 1 update

SECTIONS fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 66

home decor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 67

shopping malls. . . . . . . . . . . . p. 68

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA J. KUTOR

“Designer Secret is a retail dream: a designer overstock sale, with a well-thoughtout and monthly updated inventory of top designer fashions”

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st Floor, outlet 119, C.H. Panorama), tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl.

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t’s hard to keep a secret these days. Wikileaks has exposed many a US hypocrisy. Vaclav Havel’s recorded pen-pocketing antics turned into a Youtube sensation. Bloggers and tweeters have made hard-to-find dining spots, cultural events and boutiques easily searchable online. So when someone tipped me off about an out-of-the-way little store full of high-end designer clothing brands at a tremendous discount I was not only obliged to check it out but report back on the finds. After all, some secrets are worth sharing. Designer Secret is, simply put, a fashion-savvy Varsovian’s retail dream: a designer overstock sale, with a well-thought-out and monthly updated inventory of top designer fashions. It’s stashed on a corner spot on the first floor of Panorama Mall, beckoning couture clothes hounds with an “all 50% off” sign and a long list of top-end designer labels. The affable owners, Klaudia and Max, have long been organizing invitation-only markdown designer events at Centrum Wina

and were finally persuaded to set up a more permanent bargainhunting shop at this high-end retail sanctuary out in Sadyba. This glass-encrusted space, which boasts a laid-back-yet-elegant aesthetic, has racks brimming with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections that still bear the original tags, along with a new sticker that reads about half to one-third off the price. Dotted about the ladies section are chic tops, pencil skirts, beautiful evening dresses and jackets from the likes of Chloé, Betsey Johnson, Donna Karan, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood – all garments that make an easy transition from office environments to suave dinner parties. Sturdy wooden tables in the center are covered with disco diva heels, colorful platforms and shiny sandals from Casadei to Giuseppe Zanotti, Chapeau to Dsquared2. Men with a flair for fashion are also catered for with shirts from Trussardi, Ermano Scervino, Brian Dales and Paul Smith; suits from Prada, Patrizia Pepe, Lardini and Dolce & Gabbana, plus scores of designer denims, fancy footwear and bags. To stay abreast on extra promotions and in-the-know specials, contact Klaudia at: klaudia@ designersecret.pl. (AJK) >>

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...TILL YOU DROP

July SHOPS

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >>

­fashion

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions. Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). . Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, . www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands. Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. . Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:0017:00. The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town. Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, . www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the well-dressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

HOT FIND

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updates

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, . tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on . ul. Mokotowska. Green Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 606 147 336, . www.gestablishment.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. The breakthrough fashion stars from Praga have opened their first boutique in Centrum, featuring their signature funky styles and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Gucci in a very cool space. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, . www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from

Marta Ruta ul. Czerwonego Krzyża 2 (enter from ul. Solec), tel. 501 087 002, . www.martaruta.com.

“An online gallery of styles is available to help you with your hat terminology’’

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ats have an interesting history in Poland. Once a staple item of clothing, their presence from three generations ago may have diminished but there have been some notable revivals. Under communism, the irony of tailoring actually being cheaper than it is presently led to a host of readily available and well-made brims and bonnets. People’s heads took to the streets neatly covered – free from the fear of offending God or fellow man. Nowadays, however, Google ‘Polish hats’ and the number one search item presents you with Polish trucker hats. Fun in themselves (with slogans such as ‘Piwo reduces stress’ or – my personal favorite – ‘You bet your dupa I’m Polish’) these are nevertheless a far cry from the elegance of seepier days. Stepping back further into the past, Polish 16th and 17th Century paintings reveal a marked taste for exotic feathers. But where, you may ask, has the elegance gone now? Is there any way of getting back to the stylish hat-wearing of bygone days – something that can break free of the hat purgatory of a wedding reception and out onto the now hatless, hair-taunting flow of Varsovian pedestrians? We think so. The name is Marta Ruta and her adorable boutique ‘sklep’ is your way into adopting a modern, but classic means of headgear. From imitation flowers to feathers and lace; belts and buckles to buttons and bands; oriental-style sticks to glossy ribbons, this is hat history unfolding in full. The styles also vary: berets, cloche hats and wide-brimmed summer wear vie with trilbies, caps, and, at times, metallic plates that have no discernible hat-like function, yet also gain our approval – because they look pretty. The colors and patterns are extensive and you’re even invited to design your own should you be so inclined (an online gallery of styles is available to help you with your hat terminology). The shop has already been featured in Polish publications such as ELLE and Marie Claire. Small and sweet, with an atelier-like feel, its purple décor features sewing machines and a range of hat-wearing mannequin heads. Take your cue from the models and start your very own revival this summer. (JSH)

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

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...TILL YOU DROP the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Lanoro Lingerie Shop (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, tel. 22 622 8947, . www.lanoro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. The most well-stocked lingerie shop in the city, with collections from Chantelle, Passionata, Calvin Klein, Lejaby, Victoria’s Secret and more… Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, . www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. . Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, .

ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on . ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

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Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, . www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories. Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Warsaw’s Muji is Poland’s first, and cyber shoppers should check out their online store. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel. 22 827 7099, . www.moliera2.com, office@moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Devoted exclusively to the fashion houses of Valentino and Salvatore Ferragamo, this fancy boutique is stocked with all three Valentino lines as well as accessories from Ferragamo.

Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, www. rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty. Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), . www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more . daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

Odzieżowe Pole (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 622 4867. This is the only place in Warsaw where you can find limited-edition pieces from some of Poland’s most talented young designers. Beautifully feminine dresses, skirts, blouses and jackets. There’s also a fashionable cafe upstairs for a quick-pick-me-up.

home décor & interior design

Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace

Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features

All That Stuff (E3) ul. Solec 81B, www.allthatstuff.pl. A new . addition to the pre-loved goods market. Stocks quirky titles imported directly . from the UK.

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July SHOPS

...TILL YOU DROP

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland). Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this . one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for . the home. Cepelia (multiple locations) ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, ul. Krucza 23, . Pl. Konstytucji 5 (D6), ul. Francuska 49 (H4), ul. Chmielna 8, www.cepelia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Specialises in Polish artistic handicrafts such as furniture, ceramics, sculpture, painting, jewelry and leatherware, this is the perfect place if you’re looking for traditional souvenirs.

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Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, . www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. . www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Great for gifts. Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), . tel. 22 403 2300, www.glamstore.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. id Interior Design (Żoliborz) Pl. Kozietulskiego 2A lok.2, . mob. 661 289 833, www.idstudio.pl. . By appointment. Run by Katja Sadziak, a London-trained designer, this design studio focuses on individual needs for individual clients, for either home or office.

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Kapela Folk Galeria ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 828 2401, www.folkgaleria.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-16:00.Folksy fabrics, accessories and furnishings from deepest Poland: from Kashubia to Podhale. Koło Antiques Market (Wola) between ul. Obozowa and ul. Newelska. Open Sat-Sun 8:00-14:00. Perfect for the casual browser or Eastern European history buff searching for antiques with a historical twist. A fun place to browse silver cutlery, military paraphernalia, pre-war crockery, chunky furniture and just about any bric-a-brac. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, . www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available. MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo. pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:0015:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian and European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www. numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, . www.redonion.pl. Red Onion sells furniture, lamps, ceramics and glassware, sourced from all over the world. Red Onion’s new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget. Robbe & Berking (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10, tel. 22 627 1987. . Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. If you’re looking for top-quality silverware, you will certainly find it here – from hand crafted cutlery to engraved baby rattles.

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updates

Scandinavian Living (D3) Al. Piłsudskiego 21, Konstancin Jeziorna, tel. 22 754 6312, www.scandinavianliving. pl. Open Tue & Thur 12:00-20:00; Wed & Fri 9:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. The shop offers a “Scandinavian way of life,” with imported furniture, cushions, lamps, tableware and even clothes. Bright, colourful and homey. Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www. secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Saturday 11:00-15:00. The store is a fashionable mishmash of home décor, cosmetics, books, clothes and jewellery; the staples of every self-respecting bedroom or boudoir.

shopping malls

Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, tel. 22 296-5022, . www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600 www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, . www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) Al. Witosa 31, tel. 22 640 1400. . Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00


LIFESTYLE Lifestyle & Beauty Basics

Cur rent issue: 01-31 July 2011 w w w.w arsawinsider.pl

THIS MONTH:

* 1 update

INDEX Accommodation................p.70 hotels in Warsaw.................p..70 hotels outside of Warsaw....p..71

apartments.........................p.72 Education..........................p.72 Polish for foreigners............p..72

preschools..........................p.73 schools...............................p.75

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND Kids Culture www.kidsculture.pl

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“The site not only informs, it also aims to spread learning about Polish culture itself...’’

nce upon a time, a child’s favorite toy was a kaleidoscope; that wonderful self-perpetuating rainbow – colorful and playful, with a hint of magic. Now both kaleidoscope and concept have gone virtual. A kaleidoscope is what greets you upon ‘entry’ into the online playpen at www.kidsculture.pl. The site comes courtesy of Warsaw’s Adam Mickiewcz Institute and is partnered by two similar sites, also run by the Institute, one aimed at over 50’s in Warsaw (www.kulturaviva.pl), the other an up-to-the-minute culture guide to Polish film, theater, art, literature and music – both at home and abroad. The kid’s site was launched a mere month ago, but will remain a staple of the Institute, aiming to follow in the virtual footsteps of ‘parent site’ culture.pl (which celebrates its tenth birthday this year). Available in both Polish and English, the website is a bright and lively mix of interactive patterns and games. For parents there are articles on topics ranging from Poland’s independent children’s book publishers to topics such as taking children to an art exhibition or fostering early learning interests. There are links to current events (from contests to film screenings and art biennales) and a recommended list of child-friendly galleries, theaters, cafes and clubs. The site is particularly successful in its design: a spectrum of colour and whirling patterns is a definite means of stimulating any young mind. But behind the useful indexes and articles is an ongoing project. The site not only informs, it also aims to spread learning about Polish culture itself, from art to music. Parents and children alike can have a go at filling in virtual coloring books as well as learning about music based on Polish arts, or undertake online excursions through the museums of Łódź, Kraków, Poznań and Warsaw. The ‘Play’ section is also rather exciting. Divided into games and puzzles, activities include coloring in traditional Polish folk costumes from Poland’s Podhale region – or using the same figurines in a special mix and match card memory game; there’s even an application that allows you to organize your own art exhibit. All in all, Kidsculture.pl is great for getting acquainted with both Polish language and Polish culture – a guaranteed must for little ones and ‘big’ ones alike. (JSH)

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LIFESTYLE

July HOTELS

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >>

Accomodation

Some hotel prices might not include VAT

APARTMENTS, HOTELS

­top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44,

tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around Old Town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages. Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Gym and swimming pool. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

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Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels Jan III Sobieski (B5) Pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­ Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4), ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend). Fitness centre. Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna. Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

Three locations: al. Krakowska 178, ul. Ostrobramska 73, al. Jana Pawła 69 tel. 22 487 5777 and 22 487 5779

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AUTO_AD-new.indd 1

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000,

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ACCOMMODATION www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym. Scottish Ranch Skarboszewo (outskirts) Skarboszewo 30, tel. 22 662 9036, www.szkockieranczo.pl. Single and double rooms zł.210-330. Suites and deluxe apartments zł. 350-490.

3-star hotels Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included. Castle Inn (D1) Castle Square, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-go Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Kraków

top hotels around Poland 5-star hotels

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

Kyriad Prestige (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Grand Hotel ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. 12 424 0800. Single & double rooms €177-189.

Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 22 528 0300, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €90-100. Swimming pool, fitness room, massages, Finnish sauna, gym, power plate.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

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OLD TOWN ATMOSPHERE STUNNING PATIO FINE DINING AND SOMMELIER’s SELECTION

LA ROTISSERIE RESTAURANT IN MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW Kościelna 12 T: 22 531 60 00 E: reception.leregina@mamaison.com FB: www.facebook.com/MamaisonHotelLeReginaWarsaw

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July SPAS & SALONS

LIFESTYLE

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >>

Kazimierz Dolny

Pensjonat Vincent ul. Krakowska 11, tel. 81 881 0876, www.pensjonatvincent.pl. Stylish furniture, terrace, balcony, wi-fi. Vincent Cafe serves excellent ice cream desserts and cakes. Król Kazimierz ul. Puławska 86, tel. 81 880 9999, www.krolkazimierz.pl. Grand four star hotel. Available activities include bowling, billiard, a full featured spa, a bar and a night club.

Northeast Poland

Carska Hotel and Restaurant ul. Stacja Towarowa 4, Białowieża, tel. 602 243 228, www.restauracjacarska.pl A unique hideout on Poland’s eastern border, found in a former railway station built for the private use of Tsar Nicholas II in 1903. The interiors are decked out in aristocratic- rustic style, with period-style rooms including the lavish “Tsars Apartment”. Added pluses include an exquisite sauna and equally exquisite surroundings which border a primeval forest. Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn, tel 87 429 7000, www.zamekryn.pl. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual

company gatherings, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries.

two-bedrooms. Housekeeping, room service and concierge services included. BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award

apartments & real estate

K&L Luxury Properties ul. Sarmacka 15/100, tel. 791 089 656, www.libner.pl. Caters to expat and temporary-stay clients looking for high-end properties in Warsaw’s best residential districts and communities.

E-Expert

WARSAW REAL ESTATE & MORTAGE ADVISE

E-Expert Nieruchomości Kredyty Inwestycje ul. Kopernika 28/1, tel. 606 630 300, www.e-expert.org. Real-estate advisory services for rent and purchase of premium properties across Warsaw, as well as investment advisory for developments across Poland and mortgage servicing for locals and expats. Holland Park Apartments (E5) ul. Książęca 17/19, tel. 22 584 5900, www.hollandparkapartments.pl. InterContinental Warszawa (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8800, www.apartments-warsaw.com. The hotel offers 76 extended-stay apartments that offer the luxury of a private apartment with all the five-star amenities of a world-class hotel. Apartments start at €85 per day for a studio and from €120 for

Old Town Apartments (D1) ul. Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14 apt. 2, tel. 22 887 9800. P&O Apartments mob. 0506 130 885, booking@officemedia. pl, www.apartments.officemedia.pl. Houses, apartments, suites and flats for days, weeks or months in Warsaw. Shortand long-term holiday rentals. Warsaw Apartments ul. Augustówka 9, tel. 22 550 4550, www.warsawapartments.com.pl. Warsaw Star Apartments Short-term rentals ul. Słomińskiego 19/51, mob. 509 792 272, www.warsawstarapartments.pl. Apartment rentals for short-term stays in attractive locations across Warsaw.

Education

PRESCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS

polish for foreigners

Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals. Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. The Centre for Polish Studies (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 20, room 507, tel. 22 380 3036 and mob. 0605 205 882,

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e-mail: www.learnpolish.edu.pl. Learn the basics or polish your Polish at the Centre, which specializes in teaching Polish language and culture to foreigners. Centrum Języka Polskiego (E5) ul. Mokotowska 35, tel. 22 626 9671 www. cjp.pl. They organise group lessons, weekend trips and individual courses. In addition to Polish lessons, Centrum Jezyka Polskiego offers Russian lessons at various levels. Dobra Chata ul. Dobra 635, tel. 694 871 312, www.dobrachata.eu. Intensive tailor-made Polish courses in the countryside. Levels and topics adapted to your needs. One to four participants. Accomodation, food and qualified nanny care for your children. Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622

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1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free. IKO Institute of Polish for Foreigners (E4) ul. Kopernika 3, tel. 22 828 5267, www.iko. com.pl. Email: iko@iko.com.pl. Polish language education for expats. Follows a total immersion approach to communication, with a combined focus on language and culture. Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson.


EDUCATION

*

updates

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl. Perfect Polish tel. 783 012 463, info@perfectpolish.pl, www.perfectpolish.pl. Skilled teachers in Polish language and culture on a range of levels: from Survival Polish to Polish for Business and even Polish Culture and Literature. Speaking, listening, reading and writing.

POLA-Polish for Foreigners Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 Apt. 21, tel. 22 622 0717, mob. 0607 419 661, www.pola.edu.pl, email: biuro@pola.edu.pl. Polish made easy. Specializes in teaching Polish as a foreign language at every level. Group and individual courses based on practical communication techniques. Flexible and mobile instructors. Schola Vera – Polish for Foreigners Polish for foreigners taught by bilingual native speakers. School offers free trial lesson, reasonable prices, flexible locations. Teachers are patient, friendly and knowledgeable in all areas of Polish language, lifestyle and culture. For more information, contact Schola Vera by phone or email: tel. 79 059 7145; schola.vera@gmail.com. Worldwide School (E3) ul. Dobra 56/66, tel./fax 022 826 6904; ul. Morcinka 5 paw.16, tel./fax 022 638 4196; ul. Kondratowicza 25, tel. 22 675 1174;

ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 21/24, tel. 22 833 9112; www.worldwideschool.pl Their “Polish for Foreigners in Poland” program is aimed at companies, individual clients (open “Razem po polsku” training). They also have lectures about Polish history and civilisation.

preschools

ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 616 2066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials. Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 0502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. In addition to a rich, international curriculum, the pre-school offers a wide range of extra-curricular activities such as dance, swimming, capoeira, karate and pottery. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori. edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Ul. Nobla 16. SASKA KEPA tel 22 616-14-99 www.saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children 2 to 7 years old (2nd year of primary school). Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Welcoming family atmosphere.

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The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet and green-filled residential Mokotow district, next to Królikarnia Park. This preschool follows the English National Curriculum and enrolls children from 12 months up to 6 years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów, ul. Rzodkiewki 18. New, purpose

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>>

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July EDUCATION

LIFESTYLE

Current issue: 01-31 July 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl >> built preschool building with a vast garden for children up to six years old. For info call Agnieszka Weston, mob. 0604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Web: www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 22 644 1514, mob. 0605 561 514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl. HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, KonstancinJeziorna, tel. 22 717 5513, fax 22 717 5145, mob. 608 369 269, 501 495 543, preschool@ happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu. An international preschool located in Konstancin, close to the American School of Warsaw. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Children are given ample

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time and opportunity to explore and work at their own pace and in their own learning style, with a focus on global education according to the world-famous Montessori philosophy. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. 5:1 student/faculty ratio and extensive extracurricular activities. International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843 0964, preschool@ preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl. Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district. Kidzcorner Marina Preschool & Kindergarten Marina Mokotów, ul. Ukryta 4, tel/fax 022 493 1354, mob. 501 050 622, www.kidzcorner.pl. The Kidzcorner school is located within the Marina Mokotów residential complex. It offers a bilingual Polish-English learning program. La Fontaine Polish-French Pre-School ul. Rolna 177, Mokotów, tel.22 843 4241 & ul. Pogonowskiego 19, Żoliborz, tel. 0 502 051 360, www.lafontaineprzedszkole.pl.

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This preschool has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching. Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta.cross@ neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396. Maple Leaf Preschool ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 644 2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl. Polish-Canadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. Czereśniowa 31a, WarszawaWłochy, tel. 22 863 7756 and ul. Żołny 16, tel. 644 23 26, mob. 501 251 414. Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16


EDUCATION months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Offers extracurricular activities, such as: art, dance, yoga, football and summer art & sport camps. Nanny Express Al. Witosa 31, #105, tel. 22 858 3328, www.nannyexpress.pl. Nanny Express provides trusted, childcare professionals for the Warsaw elite. Here, the nannies come with a University degree in pedagogy, at least two years of previous experience working with children and an intermediate fluency in English. Their training process includes first aid and FCPR training, nutrition, pediatrics, communication, arts and crafts. Three Language Day Care (F4) ul. Cicha 5, tel. 503 072 119, www.zlobekjezykowywarszawa.pl. The first trilingual nursery school in Warsaw. Located in the Powiśle district of Centrum, it offers children 1-3 a comprehensive curriculum taught by native speakers of Polish, Spanish and English. E-mail: amjup2000@yahoo.com.

schools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education. Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international

staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl. Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16. Saska Kępa tel 22 616-14-99 www.saint-exupery.pl First Montessori curriculum in French in Warsaw. The Antoine de Saint-Exupéry preschool is opening in September 2011 a Montessori classroom for children from 2 years old. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442

WARSAW VOLUNTEER MISSION

or 0603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level. La Fontaine Polish-French Primary School ul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine.edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old. The TSKŻ (Towarzystwo Społeczno-Kulturalne Żydów w Polsce) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 (The Jewish Theater Building). Offers free Hebrew classes on Mon and Tue at 5 pm. Lectures conducted by Dr. Jacob Weitzner Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

Ania and daughters

A

nia has three daughters: Angelika (6), Lidia (5), and Magda, who passed away when she was one. Little Magda was born with severe ailments and was given little hope of survival by attending physicians. She had outlived all expectations, though suffered from degenerating brain and lung disorders and was virtually blind. The emotional trauma cased by Magda’s health problems set the family back considerably, and Ania’s husband left her soon after. Ania supports Angelika and Lidia by herself, and they live in a one room apartment with a tiny kitchen and bathroom. They struggle to make ends meet, and any help financial or otherwise would be greatly appreciated. To help Katarzyna, Sławek and others like them contact the Warsaw Volunteer Mission, ul. Orzeszkowej 39, tel. 22 499 1880, www.wvm.org.pl.

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

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Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2


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BOOK EXCERPT:

SHORTCUTS TO POLAND

“Manners 101,” another chapter in our monthly series from the 3rd edition. Available at the American Bookstore. BY LAURA KLOS SOKOL

A

t a flea market in the States, I bought a funny old typewriter that was very heavy. The man who sold it to me watched me struggle awhile with the unwieldy thing before offering his help. I accepted. “I didn’t know if I should ask or not,” he said, “You never know these days.” Well, a Polish man knows. He has to carry the damn thing. Oh, those Polish gentlemanly civilities; they make up the wellunderstood code of manners for men in Poland. This code doesn’t match the “modern” American notion of behavior for the sexes— egalitarian and non-sexist. But “modern” doesn’t guarantee a passing grade in Manners 101 in Poland. There are some clashes here so make your own choices on how you want to act—and react—in a different culture. Walking—easy enough. But in Poland, a man should not walk in front of a woman companion. If he does, he might as well stick his finger up his nose too. Unless, of course, only he knows the way—say, through a maze of offices. Then he should explain that he’ll show her the way. Once my Polish husband walked in front of me into a building and his friend scolded him for leaving his good manners back in the States. I hadn’t noticed. And then there’s the door issue. A man opens doors for women. Period. He might even wait to hold the door for an approaching woman. She should say dziękuję or at least acknowledge it with a friendly nod (but many don’t). An American woman said that in the States she’s not surprised when unknown men let doors shut in front of her. But she also finds it rude after living in Poland. An American man says it doesn’t matter who holds the door:

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Warsaw Insider: 01-31 July 2011

“Polite people open doors and polite people say thank you.” He says that sometimes women hold doors for him in the States. Polish men would find that embarrassing. In Poland, a man should always carry heavy things for a woman and will get strange looks if he doesn’t. American women might appreciate the help but they wouldn’t expect an automatic offer. One American woman even reads it this way: “It’s like saying you’re incapable if he automatically jumps in and helps you.” Wow. She says my flea market man was right to hesitate. By contrast, the Polish view seems to be, well, men are stronger so they should carry things. A real Polish gentleman will even carry any bag for woman, her purse excepted of course. Helping a woman on with a coat isn’t as strict a rule but it’s a sign of good manners. No man ever helped me on with my coat during my last trip to the States. Okay, so it was August, but it doesn’t happen regularly even in winter. What about paying? The general convention is that the man pays for outings—or at least pretends to. “I can’t imagine it any other way,” says a 32 year-old Polish woman who passes her wallet to her husband who rarely carries cash. But on the dating scene, this rule doesn’t always hold; young lovebirds will often share expenses willingly, after the first date when, of course, the guy pays. A Polish man who doesn’t extend the basic gentlemanly courtesies is thought prymityw (primitive), źle wychowany (badly brought up) or cham (a clod or a boor). Foreign men who don’t are, well, foreign.



Warsaw Insider #179 July 2011