Wanted in Rome - December 2023 by Wanted in Rome

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 15, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2023 | € 2,00

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

0 0 0 1 1

CONT

EDITORIALS TO RIYADH

Andy Devane

8. CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME 11. Christmas Masses and religious services in English

12. ROME FOR children 14. STREET ART guide 16. MUSEUMS 18. ART GALLERIES 32. CULTURAL VENUES 37. RECIPE 38. puntarella rossa 40. USEFUL NUMBERS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/11/2023

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 15, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2023 | € 2,00

4. ROME LOSES EXPO 2030

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

24. EXHIBITIONS 28. Classical 28. DANCE 28. festivals 30. OPERA 30. Theatre

CURRENTLY SUSPENDED Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

In the meantime (detail) by Alice Pasquini From her exhibition Kaleidoscope at Rosso20sette arte contemporanea until 20 January. For details see page 24

ENTS 4

ROME LOSES EXPO 2030 TO RIYADH

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME

Theatre

28 Festivals

EXPO 2030

ROME LOSES EXPO 2030 TO RIYADH ITALIAN CAPITAL RECEIVED JUST 17 VOTES IN THE RACE TO HOST EXPO 2030 Andy Devane

taly was left disappointed after Rome lost out to Saudi Arabia's capital Riyadh in its bid to host Expo 2030, following a secret ballot held by the Bureau International des Expositions (BIE) on 28 November. Riyadh was elected the winner in the first round, obtaining 119 out of 165 votes from delegates of member states of the Parisbased intergovernmental organisation. South Korea's capital Busan came in second

place with 29 votes while Rome came last with just 17 votes. In a video appeal earlier in the day, Italian premier Giorgia Meloni said that voting for Rome "means also creating a platform for global youth, to study together and initiate new enterprises together", concluding: "Scegli Roma, let's bring history to the future!" Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri expressed his disappointment over the "bad defeat",

Rome publicity for Expo 2030. Credit CRA Carlo Ratti Associati.

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Rome's Expo 2030 delegation in Paris ahead of the vote on 28 November.

telling reporters in Paris that Riyadh had "dominated beyond all expectations". In an interview with La Repubblica newspaper, Gualtieri alleged that Saudi Arabia mopped up votes "thanks to petrodollars" while also claiming: "We had letters of commitment signed by ambassadors of countries that in the end did not vote for us". Virginia Raggi, president of Rome's Expo commission and former mayor of the city, stated that "it would be hypocritical to hide the strong disappointment" over the outcome, adding that it was "time for reflection: we need to understand the reasons for this result and, above all, the lack of support from too many countries." Gualtieri had travelled to the French capital with English actress and human rights activist Trudy Styler, Rome actress Sabrina Impacciatore and Italian Paralympic fencing champion Bebe Vio, in a bid to obtain lastminute support from BIE member states. The day before the vote Gualtieri told reporters in Rome: "Tomorrow there will be surprises at Italy's presentation at Expo, but I can't say anything else." Had it won, the Italian capital would have been able to combine the organisation of

Expo 2030 with the Vatican’s 2025 Jubilee, a major event that it is currently preparing to host. Organisers estimated that the Rome Expo would have generated €50 billion for Italy, created 300,000 new jobs and drawn 30 million visitors. Under the banner of ̔People and Territories: Regeneration, Inclusion and Innovation', Rome's candidacy placed a strong emphasis on human rights, and its proposed Expo site was in Tor Vergata in the city’s southeastern outskirts. Underlining the focus on sustainability, nature and zero emissions, Gualtieri had pledged that it would be a "green" project and "not an Expo of cement". In early October Rome football club AS Roma ruffled feathers in the capital by announcing a two-year sponsorship from Riyadh Season, a state-funded entertainment and sports festival in Saudi Arabia. Asked about the timing of the move, less than two months before the Expo vote, Gualtieri said that it proved "the Saudis really do fear us", adding: "We are David, they are Goliath, as demonstrated by their immense spending capacity."

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Designs for Expo 2030 Solar Park at Tor Vergata by CRA-Carlo Ratti Associati.

Subsequently Italy's president Sergio Mattarella lent his voice to Rome's Expo 2030 bid, hailing the Italian capital as a "promoter of civilization, hospitality and dialogue with the numerous cultures that have enriched its identity over millennia". Mattarella added that Rome and its people have been "capable of welcoming, of producing innovation, of continuously regenerating the urban fabric of what historians define as the Eternal City." The Italian capital also enjoyed the support of Hollywood actor and Gladiator star Russell Crowe in its bid to host Expo. "Rome is one of the great capital cities of the world” – Crowe said in a video message in July – “Expo 2030, we are ready. At my signal, unleash humanity", echoing one of his most famous lines from the epic film. However it proved no match for Riyadh’s deep pockets and lavish efforts to clinch the global event, under the title ̔The Era of Change: 6 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Together for a foresighted Tomorrow'. Hosting Expo 2030 is seen as the icing on the cake for Saudi Arabia as part of its Vision 2030 roadmap for "economic diversification, global engagement, and enhanced quality of life." In Italy the last Expo took place in 2015 in Milan, an event that attracted more than 22 million visitors. The previous Expos in Italy were held in 1906 in Milan and in 1911 in Turin. Rome has never hosted an Expo. The city had been due to host the Esposizione Universale Roma in the 1942 World Fair and for this reason the EUR district was built. However due to the outbreak of world war two the project never saw the light of day. BIE defines World Expos as being dedicated "to finding solutions to pressing challenges of our time by offering a journey inside a universal theme through engaging and immersive activities." In addition to welcoming millions of visitors, hosting a World Expo allows countries "to build extraordinary pavilions and transform the host city for years to come", according to BIE.

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CHRISTMAS

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME A QUICK GUIDE TO THE FESTIVE SEASON IN THE ETERNAL CITY

hristmas is a magical time in Rome, particularly for children. Streets in the historic centre twinkle with lights, red carpets are laid outside shopfronts, and the city's churches come to life with Nativity scenes, some of which feature real, live people. Christmas in Rome is a less glitzy experience than in North America and northern Europe, revolving more around cultural and religious traditions, family and food. Immacolata For many in Rome the festive season begins

on 8 December, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a public holiday in Italy. On this day, according to tradition, Romans decorate their homes for Christmas with seasonal plants such as the poinsettia and butcher’s broom, an evergreen shrub spotted with red berries. The date also signals the start of the Christmas shopping season in Italy. Pope Francis will mark the Catholic holy day by laying a floral wreath at the statue of the Madonna at Piazza Mignanelli, near the Spanish Steps, at 16.00.

The Vatican lights up its Christmas tree and Nativity scene on 9 December.

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CHRISTMAS Christmas trees After it gets dark on 8 December Rome will illuminate its Christmas tree which this year moves to Piazza del Popolo, leaving behind its traditional base at Piazza Venezia due to Metro C subway works. There will be a giant Christmas tree in St Peter's Square, with the Vatican evoking the first living Nativity scene of St Francis on the 800th anniversary of its creation in 1223. In addition to the Holy Family, the manger will feature life-sized terracotta statues depicting St Francis and some of the people who helped him recreate the first live Nativity scene in Greccio. Christmas carols and concerts The Pontifical Irish College community holds its annual Advent liturgy followed by Christmas carols on 10 December at 16.30. Rome's papal Archbasilica of St John Lateran, or San Giovanni in Laterano, will mark its 1,700th anniversary with a Christmas concert by the choir of the diocese of Rome on 17 December. The Vatican's annual charity concert will take place in the Auditorium Conciliazione on 16 December, featuring Italian and international musicians, while the popular Roma Gospel Festival returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica during Christmas week.

Rome hosts a Christmas market in Piazza Navona.

Navona, open every day until 6 January. Christmas for kids Children enjoy the carousels, ice-skating rinks and fun on offer at Christmas World in Villa Borghese and the Auditorium Parco della Musica, where Santa Claus makes an appearance. There is also a festival of lights at the Botanic Gardens in Trastevere until 7 January. Christmas Eve Most Roman families gather on Christmas Eve to share a substantial fish dinner which, in contrast to the US and northern Europe, is the main family meal. Those planning to dine in Rome restaurants over the festive period are advised to book well in advance due to high demand.

Christmas cribs Although there are Christmas mangers and Nativity scenes in churches throughout the capital, the main draw is 100 Presepi, the international crib exhibition, held under the colonnade of St Peter’s from 10 December until 7 January 2024. Christmas Markets Rome has plenty of Christmas markets over the festive period, the best known of which is the Mercatino della Befana in Piazza

Rome lights up Via dei Condotti for Christmas.

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CHRISTMAS Tiber dive On New Year's Day one of the city's most unusual and popular sights takes place at midday on Ponte Cavour. As soon as the cannon fires on the Gianicolo to mark midday, daredevil divers thrill the crowds by making the 17-metre plunge, known as the Tuffo nel Tevere, into the icy waters of the Tiber below. New Year's Day Parade Rome will host a New Year parade through the city centre.

Religious services Midnight Mass, which rarely occurs at midnight anymore, is held at parish churches across Rome, including the Papal Mass in St Peter’s Basilica at 21.30. The next day, large crowds gather in St Peter's Square at noon to be blessed by Pope Francis as he delivers his annual Urbi et Orbi message “to the city and the world”. For Christmas religious services in English see our guide on page 11. New Year's Eve in Rome Moving on to New Year’s Eve, known as the Festa di S. Silvestro in Italy, the traditional meal consists of cotechino (a product similar to salami), zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter), and lentils which are believed to bring luck for the coming year, all washed down with a glass or two of prosecco or spumante. A well-known but now almost extinct tradition associated with capodanno in southern Italy involves people throwing old objects out the window, symbolising their readiness to welcome in the new year. Public transport The capital's public transport services will follow a reduced timetable on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. 10 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Later in the day, American and Italian high school marching bands will stage a free, family-orientated parade in central Rome. The 15th edition of the New Year's Day event starts in Piazza del Popolo at 15.30, running along Via del Corso, Via Frattina, Piazza di Spagna, Via del Babuino and Via di Ripetta in a colourful extravaganza lasting over two and half hours. Winter sales The post-Christmas clothes sales begin in Rome and the Lazio region on 5 January 2024. La Befana The next day, 6 January, Italians celebrate the religious Feast of the Epiphany, better known by its popular name of La Befana. In the Bible tradition, the feast of the Epiphany is when the three magi arrive in Bethlehem to visit the Christ child. In the popular tradition of the Befana, the story goes that the wise men invited a witch to join them on their journey to bring gifts to baby Jesus. She initially refused, but then tried to follow them. Unable to find Jesus she gave the toys to other children. Traditionally children in Italy hang stockings by windows or fireplaces in anticipation of her visit, receiving sweets if they’ve been good or coal (nowadays usually made of sugar) if they misbehaved. The story of the Befana is re-enacted each year in Piazza Navona and the witch’s departing flight marks the end of the holiday season in Rome.

Christmas Masses and religious services in English All Saints' Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881. 24 Dec. Holy Communion 10.30. Crib Service for children 17.00. Mass 23.30. 25 Dec. Holy Communion 10.30.

Rome Baptist Church

S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652. 24 Dec. Worship 10.30. Christmas Eve Service, 17.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Service, 10.30.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30.

St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic)

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Family Mass 16.30. Concert 19.05. ‘Midnight Mass’ 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Masses 09.00 and 10.30.

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339. 24 Dec. Fourth Sunday of Advent 10.30. Musical Prelude 22.00. First Eucharist of Christmas 22.30. 25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas (English & Italian) 10.30.

S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve 'Midnight Mass' 21.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 10.00.

S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121. 24 Dec. Mass at 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

St Francis Xavier del Caravita

Via della Caravita 7. 24 Dec. Lessons and Carols 19.00 followed by Mass. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 11.00. Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 11

ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

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Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coﬀee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 15

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

16 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME'S MAJOR

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Museo Napoleonico

Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 19

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

20 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di Affogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

Sala 1

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 21

- Since 1946 -

TRANSFORMING THE WORLD THROUGH EDUCATION World Class International Curriculum

Forest School

Leader in Technology Well-being Global Citizenship

Via di Villa Lauchli 180, 00191 Rome Tel: +39 06 362 91012 admissions@marymountrome.com 22 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome www.marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Favoloso Calvino exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale. Emanuele Luzzati, original illustration for L’Uccel Belverde (Einaudi, Torino 1972) Genova, Casa Luzzati / © Lele Luzzati Foundation. See page 26.

Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 23

EXHIBITIONS ALICE PASQUINI 2 DEC-20 JAN

Rosso20sette arte contemporanea presents an exhibition of installations, animation, canvases and photograms by Rome street artist Alice Pasquini. The show is described as a journey that explores emotions and human relationships in cities, evolving stories in continuous relationship with the moving urban environment. The exhibition also provides insights into Pasquini’s creative process and artistic techniques. See cover of this edition. Rosso20sette arte contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, www. rosso27.com.

EMOTION

29 NOV-7 JAN

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a new contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

FIDIA

24 NOV-5 MAY

The Capitoline Museums pay tribute to Phidias, hailed as the greatest Greek sculptor of the classical age, with an exhibition of masterpieces by the fifth-century BC genius. The exhibition includes around 100 works including some ancient Greek artefacts that have never left their museums in Greece until now, as well as bronzes, paintings, man-

24 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

EMOTION. L’arte contemporanea racconta le emozioni at Chiostro del Bramante.

uscripts, drawings and multimedia installations. Among the masterpieces on display are two original fragments of the Parthenon frieze, on loan from the Acropolis Museum in Athens; a vase engraved with the inscription Pheidiou eimi (I am Phidias) from the Archaeological Museum of Olympia; and the so-called Strangford Shield, a replica of the shield of the Athena in the Parthenon, on loan from the British Museum. The exhibition in Rome inaugurates a cycle of five shows under the title The Great Masters of Ancient Greece. Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, www. museicapitolini.org.

DACIA: L’ULTIMA FRONTIERA DELLA ROMANITÀ 21 NOV-21 APRIL

The Museo Nazionale Romano at the Baths of Diocletian presents the largest and most prestigious exhibition of archaeological finds organised by Romania abroad in recent decades. The exhibition retraces the historical and cultural development of the Dacian civilisation from the eighth century BC to the eighth century AD. Around 1,000 objects from 47 Romanian museums will be presented, as well as from the National Museum of History in the Republic of Moldova, exhibited for the first time alongside some finds from the National Roman Museum. The exhibition features priceless artefacts including the marble Glycon serpent from Tomis, the Golden Helmet of Coţofenești, the bronze

Celtic helmet from Ciumeşti, and the Pietroasele Treasure. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it/terme-di-diocleziano.

PEDRO CANO: TEATROS 17 NOV-27 JAN

Spanish artist Pedro Cano stages a solo exhibition at Instituto Cervantes devoted to ancient Greek and Roman theatres in sites including Nabataeans, Petra, Taormina and Villa Adriana. Titled Teatros, the show features 16 large format watercolours of ancient theatres and 24 works dedicated to Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli. Also on display are sketches of the costumes created for Maurizio Scaparro’s 1989 theatrical production Memorie di Adriano. Instituto Cervantes, Piazza Navona 91, www.roma.cervantes.es/it.

TOLKIEN: UOMO, PROFESSORE, AUTORE 15 NOV-11 FEB

Italy will mark the 50th anniversary of the death of British fantasy writer J.R.R. Tolkien with a major exhibition at the National Gallery of Modern Art (GNAM) in Rome. The show comprises more than 150 works including photographs, documents, letters and virtual reconstructions of the first editions of The Lord of the Rings books from which the blockbuster fantasy trilogy by director Peter Jackson is based. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

THE TOUCH OF PYGMALION: RUBENS AND SCULPTURE IN ROME 14 NOV-18 FEB

Galleria Borghese stages an exhibition that examines how the Flemish Baroque master Peter Paul Rubens was affected by his travels in Italy in the early 17th century. During his time in Italy Rubens was profoundly influenced by Titian and Caravaggio as well as Renaissance masters Michelangelo, Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci. He also studied classical Greek and Roman art and copied works of the Italian masters, animating the antique in a style that would become known as Baroque. The exhibition investigates how the artist’s work took on a new and decisive force in the years following his return to his homeland. Exhibition organisers say the show “highlights the extraordinary contribution made by Rubens to a new conception of the antique, of the concepts of natural and imitation, on the threshold of the Baroque.” Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

ANSLEM KIEFER 10 NOV-31 JAN

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents a solo exhibition by German painter and sculptor Anselm Kiefer, one of

the world’s most acclaimed contemporary artists. The exhibition features eight new monumental paintings on the theme of islands and the sea and one new sculpture – all works created in the last two years. A symbol of isolation, exploration and the desire for connection, the island theme has fascinated Kiefer since he was a boy. In the exhibition, Kiefer examines these concepts by drawing inspiration from various mythologies, literature and his own personal experiences. With references to Homer, Alexander the Great, the Bible, Ludwig van Beethoven and Paul Celan, Kiefer’s exhibition explores themes related to the artist’s decades-long career, including myth, history and human knowledge. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo de’ Catinari 3, www.lorcanoneill.com.

VAN GOGH EXPERIENCE 28 OCT-31 MARCH

Rome hosts an immersive, multimedia exhibition dedicated to the world of Vincent Van Gogh. The experience involves the use of video mapping and multimedia projections to conjure up the swirling landscapes, starry nights and sunflowers painted by the Dutch artist. Organisers say that visitors will be “living protagonists” in the artist’s paintings: “under your feet the pebbles he painted, between your fingers the dazzling yellow of

Rome pays tribute to Phidias, hailed as the greatest Greek sculptor of the classical age, with an exhibition at the Capitoline Museums.

Villa Adriana by Pedro Cano, part of the Teatros exhibition at the Instituto Cervantes.

his thousand sunflowers.” Thanks to virtual reality technology, visitors will also have the chance to see the world “through Van Gogh’s eyes”. The show, which does not include original paintings by the artist, is presented by Next Exhibition and is held at the former Cinema Avila on Corso d’Italia 37d. For tickets and visiting times see website, www.nextmuseum.net.

ESCHER

31 OCT-1 APRIL

Palazzo Bonaparte displays 300 works by Maurits Cornelius Escher (1898-1972) in what organisers boast is the “largest and most complete exhibition ever dedicated” to the Dutch graphic artist. The blockbuster show includes the artist’s best known images as well as numerous works never shown in public before. Highlights include Hand with reflecting sphere (1935), Bond of Union (1956), Day and Night (1938) and Metamorphosis II (1939). Escher is famed for his mathematically-inspired woodcuts, lithographs and mezzotints featuring visually stunning designs that explore the seemingly impossible limits of architecture and infinity. Fascinated by geometrical shapes, Escher distorted perspective and parallax to create scenes in which the eye is deceived, often leaving the viewer confoundWanted in Rome • December 2023 | 25

ed. The artist travelled extensively in Italy, living with his wife and son in Rome’s Monteverde district from 1923 until the fascist political climate prompted the family’s departure to Switzerland in 1935. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

FAVOLOSO CALVINO 14 OCT-4 FEB

On the centenary of the birth of Italo Calvino, an exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale celebrates the Italian writer and his relationship with the arts. The exhibition highlights the creative path of the writer, who died in 1985, by displaying art that inspired his writings, imagination and theories. The show comprises more than 200 works including paintings, sculptures, drawings, illustrations by artists from the Renaissance to today, medieval illuminated manuscripts and tapestries. The show includes masterpieces by artists including Carpaccio, de Chirico, Gnoli, Melotti, Escher and Paul Klee alongside portraits of the writer by photographers Carla Cerati and Sebastião Salgado. The exhibition also includes many original volumes and first editions of Calvino’s books, displayed with some of the author’s most famous quotations. Ogranisers say the art on display illustrates Calvino’s journey through life including “choices, political and civil commitment, places and above all literary production”. Calvino is

The Thracian Golden Helmet of Coțofenești is on display as part of the Dacia exhibition at the Baths of Diocletian.

best known internationally for his Cosmicomics collection of short stories (1965) and the novels Invisible Cities (1972) and If on a winter’s night a traveler (1979). Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

DON MCCULLIN IN ROME 10 OCT-28 JAN

Rome’s first major retrospective dedicated to the work of the internationally celebrated British photojournalist Don McCullin will be held at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Regarded as one of the most significant war photographers of modern times, McCullin has documented the consequences of conflicts in war-torn regions around the world and is also known for his powerful images of homeless people in the UK. Comprising more than 200 photographs printed by McCullin himself, the exhibition’s themes include early work in London and Berlin, war, international travel, British landscapes and still life, and the Roman Empire. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

HELMUT NEWTON: LEGACY TOLKIEN. Uomo, Professore, Autore at GNAM. Photo © Emanuele Antonio Minerva Ministero della Cultura.

26 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

6 OCT-3 MARCH

Rome’s Ara Pacis Museum presents an exhibition featuring around 250

Galleria Borghese stages a major exhibition devoted to Rubens.

photographs by the famed photographer. Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential and controversial photographers of the 20th century, achieving international fame in the 1970s as a celebrity photographer while working for Vogue magazine. His images were often of a seductive, even gritty nature, and he favoured working in the street over the studio. The exhibition in Rome will feature a selection of his most iconic images alongside previously unpublished works, providing insights into this work and creative process. The exhibition spans Newton’s entire sixdecade career, from fashion magazine covers to his celebrated Big Nudes series. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

ALBERTO SORDI E IL SUO TEMPO 22 SEPT-31 DEC

Rome remembers the much-loved Roman actor and comedian Alberto Sordi with an exhibition to mark the 20th anniversary of his death. The exhibition at Casa Museo Alberto Sordi, where the actor lived from 1958 until 2003, contains archive

material relating to the icon of Italian cinema. “Sordi impersonated characters of every social class, of every political colour, of every attitude and with them he was able to tell the story of our country”, said Rome’s culture councillor Miguel Gotor. Casa Museo Alberto Sordi, Via Claudio Marcello, www.fondazionemuseoalbertosordi.org.

REGINA VIARUM 20 SEPT-7 JAN

The Istituto centrale per la grafica illustrates the Appian Way through drawings and etchings from the past 500 years to mark Italy’s bid to have the “queen of roads” inserted in the UNESCO World Heritage List. On display are around 70 works depicting the Appia Antica through the centuries by artists including Giovan Battista Piranesi, Walter Crane, Luigi Rossini and Philipp Hackert. Organisers say the exhibition “celebrates the prototype of the entire Roman road system” and highlights a landscape in which antiquity, architecture and nature are intertwined. Istituto centrale per la grafica, Via della Stamperia 6, www.grafica.beniculturali.it.

GLI DEI RITORNANO 2 SEPT-22 DEC

Italy displays the trove of ancient bronze statues unearthed last year at the San Casciano thermal bath site in Tuscany in an exhibition at the Quirinal Palace in Rome. The votive statues, dating to between the second century BC and the first century AD, emerged intact from the mud at the bottom of a Roman pool in the hilltop town last November. The sensational discovery of the statues – representating divinities including Apollo and Hygieia, as well as emperors, matrons and ephebes – shed new light on the relationship between the Etruscans and the Romans. Archaeologist Jacopo Tabolli, who led the excavation project, hailed it as a discovery that would “rewrite history” about the transition from the Etruscan civilisation to the Roman Empire, adding that there was “no clear division between the two cultures”. The exhibition is open on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, with an entry fee of €1.50. Reservation is required for the hour-long visit, with full details on the Palazzo Quirinale website, www.palazzo.quirinale.it. Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 27

CLASSICAL

400 instrumentalists, divided into five groups based on age. 19.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI S. CECILIA

ARCHI DI SANTA CECILIA 13 DEC

PHILIPPE JORDAN 7, 9, 10 DEC

Philippe Jordan conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia with soprano Louise Alder and baritone Gerald Finley, performing Sympony No. 10: Adagio by Mahler and Ein Deutsches Requiem by Brahms. 7 Dec 19.30, 9 Dec 18.00, 10 Dec 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

JUNIORCHESTRA 11 DEC

The JuniOrchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, directed by Simone Genuini, presents its Christmas concert. Founded in 2006, the children’s and young people’s orchestra currently comprises around

DANCE

Philippe

Jordan

orchestra

and

conducts chorus

the the

Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia.

SANTTU-MATIAS ROUVALI / NEMANJA RADULOVIC 14-16 DEC

Santtu-Matias Rouvali conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra, with violinist Nemanja Radulovic, performing music by Khachaturian and Tchaikovsky. 14 Dec 19.30. 15 Dec 20.30. 16 Dec 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

HÄNDEL: MESSIAH / JOHN NELSON 20-22 DEC

John Nelson conducts the orches-

tra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, performing Händel’s Messiah with soprano Sara Blanch, mezzosoprano Sasha Cooke, tenor Krystian Adam, bass Alex Esposito. 20-21 Dec 19.30, 22 Dec 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica. All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

LO SCHIACCIANOCI

Carola Puddu stars as the Sugar Plum

The Nutcracker. The Rome City Ballet dances this classic Christmas work by Tchaikovsky, staged in collaboration with the Accademia Filarmonica Romana.

by choreographer Massimiliano Volpini.

7-10 DEC

FestivalS PIU’ LIBRI PIU’ LIBERI 6-10 DEC

Conductor and cellist Luigi Piovano, with alphorn Carlo Torlontano, perform music by Bruch, Bloch, Tchaikovsky, Bartók, L. Mozart, Mozart. 20.30 Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

The 2023 edition of the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses will be held at the Nuvola conference centre in Rome’s EUR district. Now in its 21st year, Più libri più liberi offers a five-day literary programme of conferences, lectures, readings, theatre workshops, performances and presentations. The annual

Fairy in this modern reinterpretation Teatro

Olimpico,

Fabriano

17,

Piazza

Gentile

www.filarmonicaromana.

org.

event was founded in 2002 by Italy’s small publishers’ association to give smaller publishing houses much needed visibility. Open each day 10.00-20.00, for full details see website, www.plpl.it.

ROMA GOSPEL FESTIVAL 21-31 DEC

Billed as the most important festival of its genre in Europe, the Roma Gospel Festival celebrates its 27th anniversary in Rome this year. Based once again at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, the festival features numerous choirs from the US. This year’s programme includes

28 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

didascalia: Roma Gospel Festival returns to Rome.

Eric Waddell & The Abundant Life Singers (21-22 Dec), the Florida Inspirational Singers (23 Dec), Harlem Gospel Choir (25 Dec) and Kaylah Harvey & The Bronx Black Kayes (30-31 Dec). For full details see Auditorium website. Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

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OPERA MEFISTOFELE 27 NOV-5 DEC

Teatro dell’Opera presents Mefistofele, the only completed opera with music by Italian composerlibrettist Arrigo Boito, directed by Simon Stone. Michele Mariotti conducts the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma orchestra and choir in this co-production with Teatro Real di Madrid. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

TOSCA

9, 12, 14 DEC

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma stages a production of Tosca by Giacomo Puccini, more than 120 years after its world premiere in Rome. Michele Mariotti conducts and Alessandro Talevi directs the opera in three acts,

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages Tosca. Saioa Hernandez and Vittorio Grigolo, archive photo by Fabrizio Sansoni.

with Anna Pirozzi as Floria Tosca and Fabio Sartori as Mario Cavaradossi. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

LO SCHIACCIANOCI 21-31 DEC

It wouldn’t be Christmas in Rome without Tchaikovsky’s mesmeris-

Theatre MATILDA 7-31 DEC

Teatro Sistina stages an Italian-language version of Matilda, the musical based on the classic children’s book of the same name by Roald Dahl. With music and lyrics by Tim Minchin and adapted for the stage by Dennis Kelly, the musical centres on Matilda Wormwood, a precocious five-yearold girl with the gift of telekinesis and a love of books. Drawing on her inner resolve and psychic powers, the fearless Matilda overcomes difficulties at home and school as well as helping her teacher to reclaim her life. Luca Ward stars as horrible head teacher Trinciabue (Miss Trunchbull), with Alice Mangione and Gianmarco Pozzoli (of The Pozzolis Family fame) playing the role of Matilda’s nasty parents. The show, aimed at viewers of all ages, has been adapted entirely into Italian by Massimo Romeo Piparo, following his award-winning success with Cats, Mamma Mia, Billy

Matilda il Musical at Teatro Sistina.

Elliot and Evita. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, www.ilsistina.it.

ing ballet, staged in a new production by Teatro dell’Opera, directed by Nir Kabaretti with choreography by Paul Chalmer. Based on E.T.A. Hoffmann’s 1816 fairytale, The Nutcracker tells the dreamlike story of a little girl who goes to the Land of Sweets on Christmas Eve. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it. roles of some of The Munchkins are being played by children attending St George’s International School in Rome. Arts in English says: “This is a real family fun show, where audience participation is strongly encouraged. Just follow the Yellow Brick Road and book your seats by email artsinenglish@outlook.com.” Tickets all seats €15. Show times are Friday 8 Dec at 20.00, Saturday 9 Dec at 17.30 and Sunday 10 Dec at 17.30. Piccolo Teatro San Paolo, Via Ostiense 190.

THE WIZARD OF OZ 8-10 DEC

Arts in English stages a new production of the timeless classic The Wizard of Oz at the Piccolo Teatro San Paolo, 10 years after the company last performed the show. Two actors are reprising their roles of a decade ago, Mauro Sudano as Tin Man and Beatrice De Bonis as Glynda, Good Witch of the South, while the rest of the international cast is new. The show is directed by Ailleen C. Moir, who was also the director in 2013, with musical direction by Phoebe Dipple and choreography by Mark Biocca. The

Arts in English stages The Wizard of

30 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Oz.

Pictured

here

Dorothy

(Courtney Walsh) and Gladys, Good Witch of the North (Giulia Proietti).

Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 31

CULTURE NEWS PAOLA CORTELLESI FILM TAKES ITALY BY STORM

C’è ancora domani, the directorial debut of Rome actress Paola Cortellesi, has become the highest-grossing Italian film in Italy’s cinemas since the start of the covid pandemic. The black and white movie, whose title in English is There’s Still Tomorrow, premiered in October at the Rome Film Festival where it won three prizes including the audience award. Since its release in Italian cinemas the film has taken in more than €27 million at the box office (as of 4 December). The neorealiststyle movie follows the domestic struggles of an abused housewife in post-war Rome, confronting issues related to patriarchy and women’s empowerment. The film has also struck a chord following the brutal killing of 22-year-old student Giulia Cecchettin, whose killing has sparked a wave of anger in Italy, and is helping to spur a national debate on violence against women.

Paola Cortellesi triumphs with C’è ancora domani. Photo Claudio Iannone.

FLORENCE OPENS MICHELANGELO’S SECRET ROOM

ROME REBORN 4.0

Flyover Zone, a pioneer in the emerging field of virtual tourism, has launched a remastered version of its virtual aerial tour of ancient Rome. Rome Reborn 4.0 updates the graphics used earlier versions of the original virtual tour developed by leading digital archaeologist Bernard Frischer. The narrated tour, available in English as an app or online at Yourescape, digitally reconstructs Rome as it appeared in 320 AD, before Constantinople became the capital of the Roman Empire under Emperor Constantine I. The tour includes more than 40 landmarks such as the Colosseum, the Circus Maximus, the Mausoleum of Augustus and the Pantheon. Frischer says the tour is designed for both academic study and virtual tourism, describing it as the “culmination of more than 27 years of historical research applied to the use of innovative digital tools”.

Rome Reborn 4.0 by Flyover Zone.

32 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Michelangelo's Secret Room opens to visitors.

Michelangelo’s little-known “Secret Room”, a tiny chamber with sketch-filled walls, has opened to the public almost 50 years after it was discovered hidden behind a trap door in Florence. The windowless room, whose walls the Renaissance master covered with charcoal sketches during the summer of 1530, is part of the Museum of the Medici Chapels at the Bargello Museum. Michelangelo, then aged 55, is believed to have hidden in the secret room in fear of reprisals from the Medici family after he had betrayed his patrons by siding with the revolt that overthrew them. The room is accessible on an experimental basis, strictly by reservation, until 30 March 2024. Visits are limited to four people at a time, for a maximum stay of 15 minutes. Visiting does not come cheap however: standard tickets cost €20 in addition to a compulsory €3 reservation fee and the €10 price for the museum ticket, adding up to €33 per person. On completion of the experimental openings, tests will be conducted to evaluate whether to keep the room open to the public.

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06 844 82 650 / 651 www.romeinternationalschool.it Wanted in Rome • December 2023 | 33

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5034 | Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome in Rome | December 2023 •in Wanted

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38 Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted 51 in |Rome • December | 37 Oct 2018 • Wanted2023 in Rome

38 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

By Kate Zagorski

PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas. It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape. The cake is brushed with a saffron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior. Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return of the sun, hence its colour and round shape. Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more diffused festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period. However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will fill your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but you could also add dried figs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.

Ingredients PANGIALLO 80g almonds 80g hazelnuts 80g walnuts 40g pistachios 100g sultanas

40g mixed candied fruit 100g honey 100g dark chocolate Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 orange 80g flour 00

FOR THE GLAZE 2 small sachets of saffron (2 x 0.1g bags) 2 tbsp flour 00 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl. Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the flour and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form a compact dough. Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put 2 tablespoons of flour into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and saffron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick, creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the outer crust is firm. Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve food Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list Brylla – Trieste Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669. Fafiuché – Monti Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968. Litro – Monteverde Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639. Sogno Autarchico – Prati Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310. Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681. Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also

a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228. La Barrique – Monti At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953. Il Goccetto – Historic centre An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268. Al Vino al Vino – Monti While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803. Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar. Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

42 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

44 | December 2023 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

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