The Wanderlust Explorer's Guide To Saudi

THE

EXPLORER’S GUIDE TO

SAUDI

With Saudi now opening up to the world, the magic of the real Arabia is tantalisingly close...

Jar Rock, AlUla

Welcome

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Front cover: Shutterstock; this spread: Saudi Tourism Authority

f you haven’t yet heard, there are big changes afoot in Saudi.The Kingdom is not just open to visitors but is welcoming them with open arms.

This is a destination for someone with wanderlust in their DNA; it’s for the globe trekker, the culturally curious, the world traveller. From ancient and little-visited Nabataean tombs to its traditional coffee culture, Saudi is awash with millennia-old traditions that the wider world is only now able to experience.

Saudi’s cities are the starting point for any trip to the country, offering a vibrant insight into daily life, encounters with locals, great shopping opportunities and a rich dose of the Kingdom’s arts, crafts and heritage. And then there are the festivals and events which pack its calendar.

For lovers of the outdoors, Saudi’s desertscapes, mountains and epic wildernesses provide a rich backdrop for incredible adventures, whether on hikes, hot air balloon trips or cycle rides. Elsewhere, the Red Sea coast offers some of the best diving and snorkelling in the world among its protected waters.

As the great 14th-century explorer Ibn Battuta said, “Travelling leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” Uncover Saudi and it will turn you into a storyteller too.

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Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros Founding Editor Lyn Hughes Associate Editor Gareth Clark Special Features Editors Rosie Fitzgerald & Rhodri Andrews Special Features Assistant Editor Laura Field Sustainability Editor Karen Edwards Consulting Editor Sheila Russell Writers Leena Al-Ali, SJ Armstrong, Sarah Assefa, Sam Bradley, Eibhlis Gale-Coleman, Jennifer Curcio, Karl Cushing, Jonathan DeLise, Jon Fleming, Lauren John, Palavi Kele, Shaistha Khan, Mike MacEacheran, Misbaah Mansuri, Alice Morrison, Elise Morton, Lama Obeid, Sue Omar, Sarah Reid, Sheila Russell, Kohinoor Sahota, Emma Thomson, Ben West, Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey, Joe Worthington, Tommy Wylde Art Director Graham Berridge Digital Creative Director Anil Karwal Digital Editor Jessica Reid Partnerships Director Adam Lloyds VP Brand Partnerships David Read Senior Creative Partnerships Manager Simon Bryson Chief Operating Officer Elliot Wellsteed-Crook Marketing & Social Media Manager Christina Wildman Mullett Wanderlust Club Manager Maria Manta Map Illustration Scott Jessop CARING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT This magazine is printed by Xcalibre Communications in Buckinghamshire, UK, on paper certified to be from sustainable European sources. Xcalibre Communications operate a system to manage and reduce their environmental impact. To find out more, visit www.xcalibrecomms.com

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© Wanderlust Travel Media Ltd, 2023, ISSN 1351-4733 Published by Wanderlust Travel Media, Capital House, 25 Chapel St, Marylebone, London NW1 5DH. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. All prices are correct at time of press. No responsibility for incorrect information can be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the authors, and not necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark.

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 3

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Why now is the time to visit Saudi

of mountain ranges, known as the Sarawat Mountains, stretches from north to south, while the country’s highest peak is Jabal Sawda (3,015m). The 2,000km-long Red Sea coast has fantastic marine life for snorkellers and divers, especially around Jeddah and Yanbu, and has temperate waters year-round.

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Cultural heritage The Saudi government has invested heavily in its historical and cultural heritage. The Masmak Palace in Riyadh tells the story of how a handful of men led by the Emir Abdulaziz Ibn Saud Al Saud captured it and began the unification of Saudi. In Medina (Madinah), you can visit the museum of the Ottoman-built Hijaz Railway, which TE Lawrence (known as Lawrence of Arabia) repeatedly raided during the FirstWorldWar. There are seven UNESCO World Heritage sites in Saudi. The first historical landmark to be given this status was Hegra in AlUla, where the grand ruins of the Nabataean Empire include giant tombs carved into the cliffs.

4 The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi

Wildlife

Local cuisine Saudis consume more dates per head than any other nation.You will be offered dates and fragrant Saudi coffee everywhere you go. Jareesh, the national dish, is made from bulgar wheat mixed with meat and vegetables, and it resembles a savoury porridge.

Another beloved dish is kabsa, which is ricebased and includes vegetables and meat spiced with black pepper, cloves, cardamom, saffron, cinnamon, black lime, bay leaves and nutmeg. Alcohol is strictly forbidden, but there is a huge range of non-alcoholic beers, wines, fresh juices and sodas.

Nature Saudi is 95% desert. Exploring that wilderness and learning about the Bedu people who live there is important; however, there are other habitats in the Kingdom. A spine

The countr y has pursued a vigorous programme of wildlife conservation and reintroduction in recent years.There are several protected areas and national parks, including Uruq Ban Ma’arid where the Arabian oryx has been successfully reintroduced. Another success is that four Arabian leopard cubs have been born in the breeding programme in Taif in the last four years.

Illustration: Scott Jessop; this spread: Alamy; Saudi Tourism Authority; Shutterstock

audi has a wealth of historical sites, diverse landscapes and a unique culture to explore.This year is the ideal time to discover all these and be among the first to enjoy some of the many new tourist offerings.

Royal Commission for AlUla

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Uncovering the past AlUla’s UNESCO-listed site of Hegra dates back to the 1st century BC and was both a trading centre and military stronghold for the entrepreneurial Nabataeans, who used it to control the Arabian caravan trade. More than 100 tombs have been discovered here, carved into the rocks of the Hijaz mountains; the grandest is surely the Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza (pictured), although it remains unfinished to this day.

Alamy

The end of the beginning Salwa Palace in At-Turaif, Diriyah, was the first royal residence of the Saudi state. Its tall, textured mud-brick walls – up to 1.2m thick in places – and high windows are a delight to wander, while visitors later in the day can see the history of what happened here projected across the walls in an evening light show that tells the story of the 1818 battle with the Ottomans that signalled the end of the First Saudi State.

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GO NOW History stood tall To walk among the UNESCO-listed houses of Jeddah’s Al-Balad district is to travel back in time. Some contain fragments dating back 1,400 years, as well as staircases wide enough to accommodate camels delivering goods, while their intricately carved balconies (known as rawasheen) are one of the defining characteristics of Hijazi architecture.

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MUST-VISIT PLACES The ancient city of Diriyah at night

The Edge of the World

Immerse yourself in one of the capital’s festivals

Get to know Riyadh Saudi’s capital is a modern metropolis where towering skyscrapers loom over busy streets and hip new eateries

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owhere are the changes taking place in Saudi more apparent than in its forward-thinking cities – not least in the sophisticated and culturally rich capital, Riyadh.

Discover the Al Masmak Palace Rising up from the Al Dirah neighbourhood in Riyadh’s southern suburbs, the magnifi-

cent 14th-century clay fortress known as the Al Masmak Palace played a pivotal role in the nation’s history.The Battle of Riyadh (1902), which eventually led to the unification of the modern state of Saudi in 1932, took place within its walls. It was later used for storing weapons and ammunitions, and the fortress has been a museum since the 1990s.

Enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Riyadh Famous for being the first skyscraper to be built in Saudi (in 2000), the pointed Al Faisaliah Tower has an observation deck 200m above ground level with panoramic views of the city. Just 5km to the south, the newer Kingdom Centre’s enclosed Sky Bridge offers similarly spectacular views from a whopping 300m above the city streets.The best time to visit both is in the late afternoon, when Riyadh twinkles in the golden light of dusk.

Saudis love to party and have a great many festivals, both traditional and modern. Some of the oldest date back thousands of years.

Among the most significant is the King Abdulaziz Camel Festival in Ar Rumahiyah, north of Riyadh. Held throughout December and January, thousands of locals come together to celebrate all things camel, from beauty competitions to auctions and giant markets. Another large event is the Riyadh Spring Festival, which celebrates spring and nature, while Riyadh Season is an epic roster of musical events held between October and March each year.

Visit Riyadh’s eclectic museums Riyadh has a host of museums.The top one to visit is the Saudi National Museum. Housed in a modern building, it covers art, culture and history, from prehistoric Arabia to today, and includes Neolithic rock art, artefacts and interactive exhibits. Next door, the Murabba Palace, built in the 1930s in the Nadji style, is the former home of Saudi’s founder, Ibn Saud.

Alamy; Saudi Tourism Authority

Al Masmak Palace

Saudi National Museum

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 13

MUST-VISIT PLACES King Abdullah Financial District

Traditional Najdi dishes

Café culture is alive in Riyadh

Tuck into local cuisine

Daily tours offer an opportunity to imagine living within the palace’s high mud-brick walls. Elsewhere, the Antiquities Museum at King Saud University is a treasure trove of ancient items taken from important Saudi archaeological sites.The Al-Faisal Museum for Arab-Islamic Art also features exquisite examples of ancient manuscripts, fine arts, pottery and textiles.

Home cooking is the best way to experience Najdi food. The next best thing is visiting a traditional Saudi restaurant such as Suhail in Diyafa Plaza, which puts a refined twist on traditional meals like Saudi’s national dish, jareesh (a slow-cooked dish of cracked wheat, vegetables and laban or buttermilk). Another well-loved Saudi restaurant is Najd Village, which has three locations around the city. You can’t miss these atmospheric restaurants where sharing dishes are served the traditional way: on the floor.

Admire the architecture of he King Abdullah Financial District (KAFD) Marvel at a modern metropolis in the making on a self-guided walking tour of Riyadh’s King Abdullah Financial District (KAFD), where futuristic buildings rise from the wadi.Tucked below the soaring PIF tower and the geometric KAFD Conference Center, the Grand Mosque is a particularly spectacular feat of contemporary architecture, with its exterior having been inspired by the ‘desert rose’ crystals found across the Arabian Peninsula.

Find treasures in Riyadh’s souks Riyadh’s traditional souks are the places to find authentic Saudi souvenirs. Directly south of the Masmak Palace, shops in the small lanes of Al Thumairi Souk offer everything from decorative daggers to silver jewellery. Just around the corner, Al Zal Souk is known for its antiques, rare coins and vintage household utensils, but there’s plenty more to find in its incense-perfumed alleys. Uptown, the huge Taibah Souk is another popular traditional-style marketplace where spices, thobes and abayas are sold alongside modern toys and household items.

Al Thumairi Souk

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Coffee has been a central part of Saudi society since the 15th century However, in the last decade, café culture has really taken off. It’s been spearheaded by the young, who make up the majority of the population – two-thirds of Saudis are under 30.There are now more than 3,500 branded coffee outlets here, by far the largest number in the Middle East.The kind of coffee served has changed too. As well as the traditional cardamom-infused Arabic coffee accompanied by dates, you’ll find plenty of flat whites and cappuccinos in Riyadh.

Alamy; Saudi Tourism Authority; Shutterstock

Embrace the city’s café culture

Salwa Palace at dusk

What to do in Diriyah Considered the birthplace of Saudi, Diriyah is where you can soak up the country’s culture and heritage in microcosm

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estled along the banks of the Wadi Hanifa, near the bustling heart of Riyadh, lies a magical place where history meets modernity.The setting for the founding of the first Saudi state in 1727 and the ancestral seat of the House of Al-Saud, Diriyah showcases the rich tapestry of Saudi’s past, present and future.

The exquisite doors of At-Turaif

Soak up history at At-Turaif Until 1818, At-Turaif was the first capital of the Saudi dynasty, and it has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2010.

The historic centre of At-Turaif is perhaps the most famous spot in Diriyah and is now essentially an open-air museum that bears the city’s signature Najdi architectural style.There’s no better way to spend a day here then by getting lost among its streets of restored mud-brick palaces, mosques, former defensive towers and curated galleries.

Wander around Al Bujairi Any trip to Diriyah should start at Al Bujairi, a bustling district boasting local and international restaurants and stores.This architectural dream was inspired by the Najdi Exploring At-Turaif

style of At-Turaif, which it overlooks. The star of the show, Bujairi Terrace, is a luxury dining destination that is home to a mix of world-renowned Middle Eastern and Saudi restaurants.

Marvel at the Salwa Palace and Diriyah Museum A four-storey marvel that was once the centre of royal power in Saudi (and the original home of the Al-Saud royal family), Salwa Palace – which translates as ‘solace’ or ‘comfort’ in Arabic – is a must-visit. Inside, you’ll find the fascinating Diriyah Museum, which tells the story of the first Saudi state through models, maps, documents and illustrations.

Stroll the Wadi Hanifa Valley Formerly a waste-disposal site,Wadi Hanifa’s transformation has been staggering, and it’s now home to many wonderful parks, restaurants, cafés and a picturesque stream that you can also cycle alongside.

Learn about heritage crafts Diriyah shines a spotlight on the many heritage crafts that are so important to Saudi culture.We’re talking wicker crafting, jewellery making, woodwork and other similar traditional skills, all of which can be discovered at the local stores, souks and the impressive PeriodVillage.

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Uncover the highlights of Jeddah Saudi’s second city has a rich history dating back to at least 647 AD, much of which is still visible today

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fter starting life as a fishing village, Jeddah evolved into one of the world’s most important trading ports and the pilgrim gateway to the holy cities of Mecca (Makkah) and Medina (Madinah).

The city has rapidly modernised, and it now has world-class hotels, events and experiences, but at its heart is a historical core of magnificent townhouses.

Step back in time in the Al Balad district The Al Balad district (also known as Historic Jeddah or the Old Town) is a UNESCO World Heritage site fusing rich history and contemporary life. It is now mostly pedestrianised, and walking tours start by entering through the ornate Bab Makkah Gate, once a starting point for pilgrims on the way to Mecca.The old pilgrimage road (Al Dahab Street) bustles with street vendors selling everything from spices to shoes.

Some 650 of Al Balad’s historic houses, which were once the homes of traders and merchants, still stand here. One of the bestknown is Beit Nassif, which was built in 1872 for the governor of Jeddah. Its staircase was designed to be large enough for a camel to walk directly to the second floor.The house has since been used as a royal residence and meeting place for wealthy merchants.

Jeddah’s Corniche

Beit Nassif

Get hands on at Zawiya 97 The Zawiya 97 Historical Retail Space aims to provide a hands-on and interactive way to honour the traditional arts and heritage of the region. Based in the Al Balad district, there are many activities you can join in on,

such as meditation sessions and traditional crafting workshops that focus on ceramics, carvings and calligraphy.

Soak up the Jeddah Waterfront A visit to the Jeddah Waterfront, also known as the Corniche, is to step straight back into the present day. Upgraded by royal decree in 2017 to serve as a popular attraction for the city, this 4.2km stretch of coastline now has playgrounds and water parks, larger-thanlife artistic animal sculptures, hotels, restaurants and shops.

Jeddah’s traditional Arabian souks are the best places to socialise and enjoy a meal, especially during cooler evenings. Stalls sell everyday items, such as groceries and clothes, as well as souvenirs, traditional clothes and oud (perfume made from the aquilaria tree).

Souq Shatee is one of Jeddah’s livelier bazaars, with local delicacies including halva (a fudge-

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Alamy; Shutterstock; William Gray

Peruse Jeddah’s souks

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Al Tayebat Museum

designed in the traditional Hijazi style with intricate coral-stone masonry and wooden lattices. Distilling 2,500 years of history is never easy, but the museum succeeds with displays ranging from pre-Islamic artefacts to coins, weapons, pottery and even oldenday home interiors, all personally collected over the years by the owner.

Try the local cuisine

Bab Makkah Souk

like sweet) and delicious dates. Haggling is expected – and is half the fun – especially for more expensive items such as authentic Saudi rugs or fabrics. Other wonders include spices, coffee beans and products infused with camel milk, such as soaps and desserts.

Learn about Jeddah’s history at the Tayebat Museum Purpose-built by a Jeddah local, the Tayebat Museum’s building itself is memorable,

Jeddah has an exciting culinary scene, with new cafés and bakeries opening regularly.

Breakfasts at the female-run Ext. Seventeen are always popular, while the buzzing café culture means there are plenty of dedicated coffee shops, such as Brew92 or Camel Step.

Thanks to its history as a Red Sea fishing port, Jeddah also has delicious seafood.

Local favourites include najel, a large red fish also known as the leopard coral grouper.Try this and other dishes at Al-Basali restaurant in Bab Makkah Souk.

belonged to a traditional Hijazi (West Arabian) trader.

Take a day trip to Thuwal Roughly an hour’s drive from Jeddah, the coastal town of Thuwal has historically been best known for fishing as well as pearl and oyster diving. An early morning visit to the fish market remains a popular activity, where local favourites such as najel (grouper) and hammour (brown spotted reef cod) can be picked up for reasonable prices.There’s no better way to end a trip than by visiting the area’s sandy beaches, where you’ll discover clear, shallow waters for swimming and can bask in the glowing sunsets.

Explore Matbouli House Museum Set in the historical Al Balad district, the privately owned Matbouli House Museum provides an authentic experience of what life was like in olden-day Jeddah. Built in the 19th century in the architectural style of the day, the museum’s uneven floors and antique stairwells have been preserved.

Old gramophones and local artefacts add context to the residence, which originally

Matbouli House Museum

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 17

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Wander through history in the oasis of AlUla, where long-gone civilisations and petroglyphs abound 18 The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi

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lUla, some 700km north of Jeddah, was one of several important oases used for rest and to exchange news along the old Incense Road that led from the southern Arabian kingdoms (modern-day Yemen) and through the Arabian peninsula, before travellers split to head to either

The palm trees of AlUla Oasis

the Mediterranean, the Levant or east to Mesopotamia.The oasis was also central to the Dadan, Lihyanite and Nabataean kingdoms, which left powerful reminders of their cultures behind.

Marvel at Hegra, Saudi’s first UNESCO World Heritage site The Nabataeans’ second city after Petra in Jordan, Hegra is the jewel in AlUla’s crown.

Dating from the 1st century BC, it contains more than 110 monumental tombs cut into red sandstone cliffs, with the most famous being the monolithic Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza. But Hegra is not only a Nabataean site.

Dwellings and rooms, such as the so-called ‘Diwan’, a large meeting place in Mount Athlab, were carved by the Thamud people,

Alamy; Shutterstock; Saudi Tourism Authority

The best cultural landmarks to see in AlUla

AlUla’s Old Town

Ancient tombs of Dadan

Elephant Rock

Wander AlUla’s Old Town AlUla’s Old Town is a warren of atmospheric lanes lined by mud-brick buildings, some of which date from the 9th century AD.There are about 900 houses, with some having been beautifully restored, while others are still in need of attention. They are best appreciated from the 10th-century fort, from where you can see the oasis town spread out below into two halves. One side was the winter residence, which was more tightly packed for warmth; the other was the summer town, with its cooler rooftops offering a place to sleep and plenty of shade.

Go futuristic at Maraya Hidden in the Ashar Valley, it is difficult to make it out Maraya at first. This hyper-moder n building , completely covered in mirrors, reflects the rocky outcrops, sandy desert and the sky all around it, rendering it virtually invisible.

Maraya, meaning ‘reflection’ or ‘mirror’ in Arabic, is not only a unique piece of architecture and the world’s largest mirrored building, but also a venue for concerts and events, complete with a restaurant led by a Michelin-starred chef.

Look deep into the past in the city of Dadan who lived in the area before the Nabataeans.

While there are gaps in understanding Hegra’s timelines and history, there’s no doubt that it was a hub for civilisations, merchants and later pilgrims on their way to the holy cities of Mecca (Makkah) and Medina (Madinah).

The Maraya event space

Dadan, the capital of the kingdoms of Dadan and Lihyanite, is a fascinating site.

While the ancient city ruins spread out at the bottom of the steep cliffs of Jabal Dadan, the cliffs themselves were once used as dwelling places, both for the living as well as

the dead, with square tomb entrances studding the rock faces. A highlight is the Lion Tombs, where the entrances are guarded by carvings of lions.There are old fortifications and wells, plus sets of steep stairs carved out of the rock leading up the cliff faces. It’s an incredible sight.

Spy the rock carvings of Jabal Ikmah Going hand in hand with the site of Dadan, Jabal Ikmah lies just next to it, springing up from the countless palm gardens filling the valley. Here, further fine examples of scriptures can be found carved into the rock face itself, with countless written sections etched in various scripts.These include the ancient languages of Aramaic, Dadanitic, Safaitic, Thamudic, Minaic and Nabataean.

Spy Elephant Rock Known locally as Jabal Al Fil (Elephant Mountain), Elephant Rock is AlUla’s grand geological gem. Rising up 52m and presiding over a pristine desertscape, millions of years of wind and water erosion are to thank for its iconic look. But Elephant Rock’s most magical quality is that it looks completely different depending on the time of day you set eyes on it, whether it’s coated in an amber glow at sunrise or turning dusky red at sunset.

Enjoy one of AlUla’s many festivals The best time to visit AlUla is during the winter and spring, when it’s cooler and there are more festivals taking place. The late-spring AlUla Skies Festival fills the heavens with hot air balloons, while the AlUla Arts Festival, in late winter, has established itself as an annual must for international art devotees. For this festival, the valleys, wadis and town are adorned with installations from international artists.

There’s a festival for almost everything in AlUla, from saluting nature’s rejuvenating powers at the AlUla Wellness Festival to Winter at Tantora, a rich cultural celebration that includes its own citrus festival.

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 19

Ithra (King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture)

Be among the first to discover Dammam and its tapestry of culture, history and creativity

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he capital of Saudi’s Eastern Province is both forward-looking and rich in heritage. Set on the Arabian Gulf, the city draws travellers with its beguiling blend of compelling history and ultra-modern marvels.

Stroll the historic Bayoniya neighbourhood Bayoniya allows you to step back in time yet also soak up the modern Saudi art scene.

Here you’ll get a feel for quintessential Arabic architecture and a taste of modernity with art exhibitions created by local graffiti artists.

Take in the cutting-edge vision of Ithra Ithra, also known as the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture, is famed for its

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compelling architecture. The centre’s five futuristic buildings each resemble stones, while if you step inside them, you’ll find thought-provoking exhibitions, captivating performances and a children’s museum.

Embrace traditional skills at the Heritage Village Dammam’s Heritage Village gives you a taste of the Kingdom’s diverse regions, from the highlands of Najd to the Red Sea coast.

Within its fort-like building you’ll find a lively showcase of Saudi customs and crafts, with artisans demonstrating age-old skills that range from weaving to pottery.

Go sailing in Half Moon Bay Dammam is wrapped by clear waters, and there’s nowhere better to set sail than on idyllic Half Moon Bay, home to pristine Tarout Castle

sandy beaches, abundant marine life and a consistent gentle breeze.

Visit Dammam’s Love Market Officially known as Share Al Hob, this lively souk earned the nickname ‘Love Market’ for its many jewellery shops, but it also offers opportunities for picking up other souvenirs and supports plenty of local artisans by selling a variety handicrafts, carpets, ceramics and fabrics.

Go back in time at Tarout Castle Tarout Castle’s three magnificent remaining towers have seen the rise and fall of numerous rulers, from the Dilmun Kingdom to the powerful Persian, Islamic, Portuguese and Ottoman Empires. Its roots go back to 5000 BC, when the site was first dedicated to the worship of a number of Mesopotamian goddesses.

Admire history at the Alfelwah and Aljowharah Museum The Alfelwah and Aljowharah Museum has blossomed from a massive personal collection into one of Dammam’s cultural treasures. The museum houses half a million diverse artefacts within an opulent villa, ranging from vintage cars to an ornate 500-year-old copy of the Qur’an.

Alamy; Shutterstock; Saudi Tourism Authority

Get to know Dammam

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Discover the Asir region Immerse yourself in Asir’s verdant highlands and historic architecture

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nlike most of Saudi, Asir is known for its tropical weather and fresher temperatures. If you’re looking for historic sites and an immersion in nature, this is where to go.

Wander the Habala Hanging Village You must take a cable car from Abha to even access Habala, one of the most historic and beautiful villages in Saudi. It used to be inhabited by the Khatani tribes, who were known as the ‘flower men’ because of the colourful flowers they wore on their heads.

Unravel ancient tales in Rijal Almaa village The UNESCO-listed Rijal Almaa is a village where those travelling betweenYemen and the holy cities of Mecca (Makkah) and Medina (Madinah) used to meet and trade goods. It’s known for its 60 colourful houses,

which date back 900 years and are made from stone, clay and wood. They’re also adorned with Al Qatt Al Asiri, a traditional interior design pioneered by Asiri women.

Go wild in Asir National Park Asir National Park is home to the highest mountain in Saudi, Jabal Sawda (3,015m).

You can either hike there or order a cable car.

Along with breathtaking scenery, the park also has wild deer, ibex and more than 300 bird species.

Enjoy a coffee farm tour with a local Abha is home to some of Saudi’s biggest coffee farms, thanks to its relatively tropical weather and highlands.You can visit plantations dating back to the 16th century, as well as try traditional Saudi coffee (qahwa) made with spices such as cardamom and saffron.

Rijal Almaa village

Be sure to taste Abha’s honey

Amble ancient Abha Abha’s most famous sites are found in two districts: Al Nasb and Al Basta, with the latter home to the biggest castles in the region.Visit the nearby Abo Sarrah Palaces, a pair of historic stone towers with panoramic views of Al Aziza village from their summit.

Embark on a honey tour of Abha Abha is known to produce the silkiest honey in the Asir region. Honey has been a vital trading commodity here for centuries, thanks to the wide variety of plants and flowers available for the bees, so a honey tour is a must.

Habala Hanging Village

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 21

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A guide to the Red Sea Dive into crystal-clear waters, explore ancient history, enjoy authentic Arabian delights and unwind at luxury resorts spread across the Red Sea coast, which is home to Saudi’s newest regenerative travel destination…

Fly to the world’s most eco-friendly airport Start your journey to Saudi in style by flying into the Red Sea International Airport (RSI), dubbed the world’s most eco-friendly.

Whether you’re headed to one of the many new Red Sea resorts, including stays by Banyan Tree, Four Seasons and Six Senses, or for a transformative wellness escape at soon-to-open Amaala, this will be your modern entry point to the region.

Experience the Red Sea’s time-frozen culture While the Red Sea area is a modern, sustainable destination, the preservation of traditional aspects of Saudi culture is prevalent.

From trying local cuisine to observing the national dress and learning more about Arabian history, you’re bound to find yourself immersed in Saudi’s signature culture across the Red Sea. The country also has an exploding art scene and you can find the work of local artisans displayed at luxury Red Sea resorts and hotels.

Have a thrilling adventure by day or night Beyond exploring the beautiful turquoiseblue waters, the Red Sea offers a wide range

of daytime activities and evening entertainment. For an awesome adventure by day, head to one of the surrounding deserts that offer thrilling activities like dune bashing in 4WD vehicles, sandboarding and camel trekking. As the sun sets over the water, you can experience a whole new world of Saudi entertainment. From beach bonfires to dining under the stars, enjoy delicious local cuisine while you soak up the cool sea breeze. And if you are looking for live entertainment, you can also find traditional Saudi shows, including music and dance performances.

Enjoy memorable adventures on the water Saudi’s Red Sea offers an array of impressive aquatic activities on the blue sea. From colourful fish to mesmerising coral formations, you can get lost in the kaleidoscope of marine life through tailored experiences.

Whether you’d like to unwind on the water or experience exciting activities, the Red Sea offers endless and fully customisable adventures. For thrillseekers, activities such as jetskiing, parasailing, windsurfing and kiteboarding are readily available. But if you prefer a slower pace, boat trips will give you time to marvel at the breathtaking coastal landscapes while enjoying a traditional spread of local cuisine.

Have some epic underwater encounters Renowned for its diverse coral reefs and crystal-clear waters, the Red Sea is the perfect spot to enjoy some underwater adventures by experiencing magical marine life and an See marine magic in the Red Sea after dark

abundance of untouched reefs. Scuba diving and snorkelling are great ways to witness the wonderful world under the sea and connect with nature. Best of all, the water temperature is always lukewarm, making this the ideal year-round escape for divers.

Explore islands including Bayada Island, Farasan Island and Sindalah Island To experience the true natural beauty of Saudi’s Red Sea, you must venture out to its pristine islands. Best known for its rich cultural heritage, Farasan Island is ideal for diving, sunbathing on the beautiful beaches and birdwatching. Bayada Island is renowned for its powdery white-sand beaches, top-tier resorts and unwavering commitment to environmental conservation. Meanwhile, Sindalah Island is due to be a stand-out attraction, featuring a large

22 The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi

Red Sea Global; Saudi Tourism Authority

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00km north of Jeddah, along Saudi’s west coast, the Red Sea Project is one of five sustainable developments that is set to transform tourism here by re-imagining the landscape and diversifying the region.

From luxury resorts to tranquil beaches and mesmerising marine adventures, Saudi’s Red Sea coast offers an array of activities to enjoy.

MUST-VISIT PLACES

The Six Senses Southern Dunes is one of many resorts opening on the Red Sea

marina, a beach club, spas, wellness centres, luxury hotels and a shopping district.

Be inspired by the sustainable philosophy As part of Saudi’s Vision 2030, the Red Sea Project prioritises sustainability to preserve the ecosystem of the region while providing unrivalled luxury and leisure experiences. From the adoption of eco-friendly materials and technologies to marine conservation, the Red Sea Project has been envisioned to protect the planet at all costs. Renewable energy sources are integrated to reduce carbon emissions, and marine conservation is an ongoing initiative aiming to protect and restore the diverse marine life and coral reefs.The Red Sea also engages with local communities to teach them how to take better care of the environment, while preserving their cultural heritage and the natural beauty of the region.

Cruising the Farasan Islands

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MUST-VISIT PLACES

Rose picking is an essential Taif experience

The unofficial summer capital of Saudi, Taif is a place of bountiful history, natural beauty and roses

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aif enjoys a moderate climate, so is always lush and bursting with flowers.

The spectacular landscape of mountain peaks and green valleys is the perfect backdrop to its many historic palaces, tower forts, museums and traditional souk.

Visit a rose factory

summit of the mountain and Al Kar Tourist Village. During the journey you can watch over a caravan pilgrim trail and the Sarawat Mountains.The Al Hada road is also one of the most beautiful routes in the region.

Picnic with a view on Al Shafa Mountain The twisting mountain road to Taif, via Ash Shafa, showcases the area’s glorious geology.

Often covered by a blanket of wildflowers, you can also see herds of goats and wild baboons along the way.

Spy a volcanic wonder in the Wahba Crater The Wahba Crater exists on a truly spectacular scale.The deepest crater in the country, diamond-like salt crystals form at its base and shine like scattered jewels.

Also called the City of Roses, Taif has hundreds of farms that bloom in spring.

Rows of pink Damask roses fill the air with their intoxicating scent. Join the picking at dawn and visit factories to see how the petals are distilled in copper pots to produce products like rose oil, rose water, lotions and soaps.

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Get back in touch with nature On the outskirts of Taif lies Saysed National Park, an open area of countryside with a wadi and modern dam. Nearer to the city centre, you’ll also find Ar Ruddaf Park, which is popular with locals and visitors, particularly around the annual Taif Rose Festival that celebrates the arrival of spring.

Admire history at Shubra Palace

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hubra Palace Heritage Museum has over 100 rooms spread across four floors and a cellar. Displays include historical collections from the area, Islamic antiques, manuscripts and writing tools.

Visit Al Sharif Museum

Summit Al Hada Mountain by cable car Telefric Al Hada is the longest cable car in the Middle East and travels between the

Al Hada mountain road

The enormous Wahba Crater

Al Sharif Museum is one of the largest and most impressive heritage museums in the region. Its collection is huge, with many examples of weapons, pots, kitchenware, coffee pots and jewellery.

Alamy; Shutterstock; Saudi Tourism Authority

Discover magical Taif

Further Saudi highlights

The former home of TE Lawrence in Yanbu

It’s not all about the big sites.

There is a wealth of history and nature to be found here

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audi is full of opportunities to learn fascinating snippets about the Kingdom’s diverse culture, natural landscapes and long history. If you’re planning a longer and slower trip around the country, take the time to visit these stand-out destinations as well as big hitters like Jeddah, Riyadh and AlUla.

Medina (Madinah) Located in the Hijaz region, Medina has been attracting visitors for well over a thousand years, thanks to its status as the site of the Prophet’s burial and being home to two of Islam’s oldest mosques.You might expect such a holy city to have a quietly austere atmosphere, but the mood is usually celebratory.You’ll find crowds of excited pilgrims joyfully thronging the holy sites and readying themselves for a visit to the Prophet’s Mosque.While there, learn about the city’s history at the Dar Al Madinah Museum and the Hijaz Railway Museum.

Yanbu Yanbu is a major port on the Red Sea with over 2,500 years of trading history. Today, the city is split into three distinct districts: oceanfront Al Bahr, governmental Al Sinaiyah and agricultural Al Nakhl. Each offers a slightly different take on Saudi culture.While

there, refresh yourself at the oasis ofYanbu Lake, wander around Yanbu’s Old Town and visit the former home of TE Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia), the British army officer who was a prominent figure in the Arab Revolt and lived here from 1915 to ’16.

Tabuk Underestimated compared with bigger Saudi metropolises,Tabuk is gaining popularity thanks to its welcoming people, local culinary delicacies and historic sites.When visiting, take time to learn about Ottoman history at the Tabuk Fortress, feast your eyes on the ‘Saudi Titanic’ or embark on a hike

to Jabal Al Lawz during winter to spy the local snowfall.

Jazan Postcard-perfect Jazan is a port city engulfed by the Red Sea’s hypnotic embrace.There is plenty to savour here, from its pearl-fishing legacy to the glistening realm of lush forests, rugged mountain peaks and sapphire waters on the doorstep.While you’re in the area, be sure to take the time to head to the Farasan Islands and to snorkel or dive among its calming coral reefs. To get active above sea level, go hiking in the Faifa Mountains for some incredible views.

Holy city of Medina (Madinah)

Faifa Mountains

Tabuk Fortress

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FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

Marvel at Saudi’s incredible UNESCO sites

Taking in Hegra

Seven of Saudi’s historic and natural treasures are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and each one is worth discovering

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hile many regions of the Middle East have little physical evidence of their past, because the local tribes historically tended to be nomadic, Saudi has long been a melting pot of civilisations and ancient trading routes.

Admire the Al Ahsa Oasis An oasis with 2.5 million date palms as well as gardens, canals, springs and wells, Al Ahsa lies in the Eastern Province, close to the Qatar border, and is a green wonder amid the desert.

Wander At-Turaif District On the outskirts of Riyadh lies Diriyah’s At-Turaif, the first capital of the Saudi Dynasty. This remarkable site has a palace that became the centre of power in the first Saudi state and showcases traditional Najdi architecture through its mud-brick buildings.

Marvel at the Hegra Archaeological Site The former Nabataean settlement of Hegra, just outside AlUla, is home to around 110 monumental tombs that have been cut into

the red sandstone cliffs.The most famous of these is the monolithic Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza (pictured left page).

Experience the Hima Cultural Area In the south-western Najran region lies the mountainous Hima Cultural Area. Due to its proximity to early caravan trading routes, it was settled for around 7,000 years and is filled with petroglyphs.

Explore Historic Jeddah Juxtaposing Jeddah’s modernity is Al Balad (Old Jeddah), home to exquisite townhouses with elaborate shutters and intricate latticed doors. Founded in the 7th century, this old quarter is being restored, with some buildings having been re-invented as cafés, galleries and museums.

Discover Rock Art in Ha’il In the remote and rocky province of Ha’il, several sites make up a single UNESCO listing.The three mountains of Jabal Umm Sinman, Jabal Al Manjor and Jabal Raat have astonishing 10,000-year-old petroglyphs.

The oasis of Al Ahsa

Explore the Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve On the western fringes of the Rub’ Al-Khali (the Empty Quarter) – the largest contiguous sand sea in the world – the Uruq Bani Ma’arid Reserve became Saudi’s first UNESCO natural heritage site in 2023. It is home to wildlife such as Arabian gazelles and ostriches.

Saudi Tourism Authority; Shutterstock; William Gray

Jeddah’s Al Balad historical district

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How to start getting adventurous Trek through colossal mountain passes, camp in the desert with Bedouin guides or get a sky-high view of Arabia...

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olling desert dunes, gigantic massifs and Red Sea coral reefs teeming with unique marine life – adventurous travellers have no shortage of options in Saudi. Explore the Kingdom’s extraordinary landscapes from the skies in a hot air balloon or on a paragliding tour, or get hands on with its rocky terrain on a hike. These outdoor adventures expose a new side to Saudi, beyond urban life.

Hiking Amber and ochre crags dominate the skyline inWadi al Disah. Far from the endless deserts that permeate popular expectation, this 15km trail cuts through the sandstone massif Jabal Qaraqir. Rest under date trees or cool off at secluded freshwater springs near the city of Tabuk. Alternatively, head west of Jeddah to Al Wabah to roam the rim of a vast volcanic crater with views of its crystalised central flats.

Mountain biking

Hiking the mountains of Asir

Snorkelling and diving Saudi has been significantly investing in its Red Sea coast and coral reef, an ideal destination for divers. Setting sail from Yanbu, divers and snorkellers can expect excellent visibility. Clear waters expose critters like green turtles and striped Red Sea clownfish, as well as whale sharks, sailfish, great barracudas and dugongs. Experienced divers should also head to the international hub of Jeddah for a chance to explore the shipwrecks scattered in the passage between Saudi and eastern Africa.

Camping Spend the night amid the lunar landscapes and sprawling desert scrub by camping in Moon Valley, an hour from Jeddah. There are several established camps close to Moon Mountain, an ideal vantage point. In the eastern reaches of Saudi, another unique spot presents the perfect opportunity for campers. Pitch up at the edge of Al Asfar

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Camping in AlUla

Lake alongside the local outdoorsmen, all drawn to the expansive waters hidden between billowing dunes.

Hot air balloon flights Soaring above the desert rocks of AlUla, hot air balloon rides offer a unique view over Saudi’s most intriguing region. Drift above 200,000 years of human history and keep an eye out for the Nabataean carved tombs that rise from the sands

Shutterstock; Saudi Tourism Authority

Head to the Wadi Hanifa Path on the outskirts of Riyadh for a cycle amid the capital’s leafy parks and tranquil waterways, leading towards a more strenuous route.The Wadi Loop offers visitors an elevated view over the city.Though the off-roading here is limited, the Arabian heat and soft sands still provide cyclists with some challenge once they leave the pavedWadi Hanifa Path.

FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

Paragliding at Jabal Sawda

Paragliding Launching from a perch 3,000m above sea level, the tandem gliders taking flight from Jabal Sawda aim straight for the slopes of the Sarawat Mountains, where travellers can take in verdant valleys characterised by juniper trees and flora. Easily accessible from Abha, paragliding trips last around 15 minutes. Flights are dependent on conditions and are only available from April to October.

Stargazing

AlUla Hot Air Balloon Festival

at Hegra. Balloons can only overlook the oasis during the AlUla Skies Festival, which is planned for 10-20 April in 2024, when some 150 baskets fill the air.

Helicopter tours are also available.

Climbing In the new NEOM region of Saudi, climbers have more than 100 vertical routes to choose from. Divided into three zones – A, B and C – NEOM’s rock-climbing routes vary in difficulty. Less confident climbers should opt for those in Zone C. It’s tough terrain, but adventurous travellers will be rewarded with panoramic views.

Al Bahah; birders can also head out on a clearly marked forest trail. It’s also possible to spot falcons (before they’re wrangled and trained) in the Imam Turki bin Abdullah Royal Nature Reserve, which has its own breeding programme.

Caravans guided solely by the stars have traversed the Arabian desert for millennia, and the Bedouin have passed their sky-gazing knowledge down from generation to generation. Learn from their expertise on a stay with the nomads currently settled in Khubayb Al Reem. Alternatively, visit the tribes that straddle the border between Saudi and Jordan in Jabal Al Lawz. For the ultimate stargazing experience, head to Gharameel in AlUla, where a rawi (local storyteller) will explain the different constellations in the night sky.

Stargazing in Gharameel, AlUla

Birdwatching More than 40 forests encircle the city of Al Bahah, where unique birdlife endemic to the Gulf can be found. Sightings could include the rare Arabian magpie, the saffron tail of the Arabian grosbeak or sociable Arabian waxbills. Guided trips run from

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 29

Where to go snorkelling and diving The Saudi coastline is blessed with vast stretches of turquoise waters that teem with marine life. Dive in…

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he Red Sea coast affords numerous opportunities to get in the water and enjoy spectacular diving and snorkelling. Jeddah is not only known for its UNESCO World Heritage site of Al Balad, but also its vibrant diving community. The Red Sea is also warm enough to visit throughout the year; during the winter months a thin wetsuit is needed for scuba diving, but it’s simply not necessary for the rest of the year.

All the action takes place north of Jeddah, above the Obhur inlet or creek. There are beachfront resorts on the edge of the coral reef where you can snorkel or dive. Each has its own dive shop that provides all the kit needed, along with instructors for anyone who wishes to gain their diving qualifications while in the area. Dive boats for those wanting to explore the coral reefs and shipwrecks out at sea are accessed via the small marina within the Obhur inlet.

Snorkelling and diving from north Obhur is spectacular. From the moment you enter the water you’re surrounded by fish and marine animals of all sizes. Snorkelling above, you can watch fish of all shapes and sizes darting around the corals. Divers can see an ever-changing selection of marine life, whether it be scorpion fish, clown fish or moray eels.

Getting out on a dive boat for a day is a wonderful experience, while those wishing to snorkel nearby can go to Bayada, an area of shallow water and coral banks not far from shore.You can head out further, to one of the area’s dive sites, or it’s even possible to go out and observe sharks from the safety of a cage.

Meanwhile, dolphins often swim alongside the dive boats as they glide the water.

One well-known site is Cable Wreck, which is named after its cargo of cables, fences and steel beams that fell off the ship (The Staphonos) when it sank in 1978. It now sits 24m deep and is surrounded by a tangled web that is home to many fish and sea creatures. Colourful corals in fantastic shapes adorn almost every surface, and it’s common to see blue spotted rays and the odd whitetip shark here.

Two hours by boat from Jeddah, on the Abu Faramish reef, is the largest wreck dive

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in the area, the Ann Ann. With a dazzling display of corals adorning the handrails of the submerged deck and a large selection of fish calling it home, this wreck is special.

It sits at an angle (with its propeller intact) at around 30m deep. Divers will pass snappers, blue-spotted rays and schools of barracuda. It’s also possible to enter the captain’s quarters and cargo room, but only with a qualified instructor.

Two hours south of Jeddah by car is the little town of Al Lith, where boats can take you out to the star attraction: Jabal Al Lith island, a combination of sandy beaches and mountain terrain, only 4.5km by 2km.

Snorkelling is popular around the shore, and divers can enjoy clear blue waters. Between March and June is the best time to see whale sharks majestically gliding through the sea here. Al Lith is also the starting point for boats that go to Farasan Banks, a vast archipelago of small islands. The fine coral sand is an ideal habitat for turtles, and colonies of birds nest in the low vegetation. Coral walls explode with small fish, while large rays can also be seen swimming around the sandy-bottomed coral canyons.

Yanbu is described as ‘The Pearl of the Red Sea’, as it provides some of the most beautiful diving in all of Saudi. The city boasts a rich diversity of marine life, untouched reefs and crystal-clear waters.

Seven Sisters Reef is probably the most famous, with its numerous dive sites offering sightings of barracuda, red snapper and even sharks. One of the most beloved inhabitants of the Red Sea are turtles, which are a common sight inYanbu’s waters.

Located on the Seven Sisters Reef, Abu Galawa is a beautiful site offering underwater grottos, drop-offs and marine life.

The Iona is a famous wreck that sank after colliding with a nearby coral reef system and boasts an amazing diversity of aquatic life.

It is still a mystery as to how it entered the Red Sea during the First World War.Yanbu also has its own old town, which has been restored and has some of the best fish restaurants in the area for a hearty meal of local seafood to perfectly top off the day.

Al Rayes White Head Beach

FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

Hawksbill turtles are commonly spotted

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Saudi Tourism Authority

A diver spots a school of fish among the Red Sea coral

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5 wildlife species to spot Hidden within Saudi’s vast deserts and rugged landscapes lies a world of extraordinary wildlife Arabian oryx

The Arabian oryx, with its long horns and white coat, is an iconic symbol of Saudi.

Once thought extinct due to excessive hunting, now more than 1,000 oryxes live on the Arabian peninsula. If you’re lucky, you could spot one in the Imam Saud bin Abdulaziz Royal Reserve, where conservation efforts have helped boost the population.

The Sharaan Nature Reserve in AlUla also runs safaris where you can travel in opentop jeeps and see oryx in the wild.

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Arabian wolf

The Arabian wolf – a smaller, more slender cousin of the grey wolf – was able to adapt to the arid desert. Your best bet for seeing one is to take a trip to the southern regions close to the Yemen and Oman

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borders. Out in the Rub’ al Khali (The Empty Quarter) or among the rugged terrain of the Asir Mountains is where they prefer to roam. The Arabian wolf is known for its adaptability to extreme conditions, but also for its elusive and shy nature, so sightings are rare.

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Hamadryas baboon

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Wild cats

The hamadryas baboon is a distinctive primate that is known for its silver-grey fur and striking facial features. You can find hamadryas baboons around the Sarawat and Asir mountains, where they are known to seek refuge among the rocky cliffs.

Saudi is home to several wild cat species, including the enchanting sand cat,

which has large ears, a compact physique and noctur nal instincts; the caracal (pictured), with its tufted ears and sleek build; and the African wildcat. Exploring the remote desert regions is your best chance to spot them. The Asir province and the areas surrounding Riyadh are both known to host a number of wild cats.

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Birdlife

Saudi boasts an impressive diversity of over 500 bird species. Some of the more notable include the saker and peregrine falcons, the Nubian bustard and various owls (pictured). From the wetlands along the Red Sea to the oases of the Empty Quarter, there are ample places to spy them. In fact, anywhere there is water and shelter, you are likely to hear birds.

Alamy; Shutterstock; Saudi Tourism Authority

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FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

Unique adventures to take your breath away These one-of-a-kind experiences are sure to challenge your expectations of travel in Saudi

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audi offers far more than desert sightseeing. It has a beautiful coastline, canyons, mountain ranges and even snow. Its distinctive landscapes are not only beautiful, but will surprise you with some of the country’s most memorable travel experiences.

Lie in a canyon hammock, AlUla Clambering into a netted hammock 200m above an AlUla canyon gives you more than bragging rights.This is one of the most unique adventures to have in AlUla and is only accessible by completing the guided Via Ferrata Trail.Visitors must harness up and tackle an aerial obstacle course and cliff-side route just to reach this scenic perch.

Go horse riding along the coast, KAEC The shorelines just outside the King Abdullah Economic City are ideal for cantering on horseback through lapping waters. Head out with popular stables Lagoona Horse Riding, which is located just by the beach.

See snow atop the summit of Jabal Al Lawz, Tabuk The granite Jabal Al Lawz is widely rated as one of Saudi’s best mountains for hiking. It’s even rumoured to be the real Mount Sinai,

Try your hand at paramotoring

where Moses was said to have taken the Ten Commandments. Aside from its hiking trails and potential religious significance, Jabal Al Lawz causes a buzz with its snowfall.

toring is bizarre, but you can experience it first-hand in Thumama National Park, just north of Riyadh.

Be a beekeeper in Al Baha

While falcons were once used for hunting in Saudi, flying these birds is now more of a cultural activity.The best place to experience this is the Saudi Falcons Club, just north of Riyadh.

Al Baha has long been a hub for beekeepers.

Residents have used traditional beekeeping methods for hundreds of years, with thousands of beehives now scattered among Al Baha’s mountainous outskirts. The area’s beekeeping is also vastly important for the region’s ecology and economy.

Try a falconry experience

Falconry is a traditional sport

Fly along Saudi’s longest zipline, AlUla AlUla’s desert landscapes are best appreciated from on high. The longest zipline in Saudi stretches 1.5km and is the best experience for adrenaline lovers.

Horse riding at Asfar Lake, Al Ahsa

Go paramotoring over Thumama National Park A go-kart-looking contraption soars through the air with a parachute attached. Paramo-

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FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE Hijaz Railway Museum

The top museums to visit

Ithra (King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture), Dhahran

Get to grips with local culture.

Explore everything from Islam’s illustrious history to the modern development of the Gulf at these Saudi museums National Museum of Saudi Arabia, Riyadh Each of the National Museum’s eight halls takes travellers through a different era of Saudi history. Learn about the modern heritage of the House of Saud and the unification of the Peninsular tribes.This comprehensive complex of exhibits spans thousands of years of Arabian history.

Al Tayebet Museum

The design of the organic-looking King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture (or Ithra) was modelled after pebbles. Inside, you’ll find exhibitions spanning everything from contemporary art to Islamic heritage and natural history.The centre endeavours to showcase Arabia’s cultural life and history, and it doesn’t disappoint.

Al Tayebat Museum, Jeddah A seaside city popularised as the pilgrim’s port, Jeddah’s history spans more than 2,500 years.The Tayebat Museum celebrates this within an attractive complex of 12 traditionally styled buildings, teaching travellers about everything from Bedouin life to the history of Islam.

Al Sharif Museum, Taif An expansive display of traditional Arabian wares are found in the mountains of Taif.

This sprawling exhibition gives visitors an

Ithra National Museum of Saudi Arabia

insight into day-to-day life in the peninsula.

The artefacts on show have been carefully arranged to mimic an Arabian home from centuries gone by, made up of furnishings, artworks and ornaments typically found in the region.

Hijaz Railway Museum, Medina (Madinah) From 1906 to 1920, the Hijaz Railway carried travellers from Damascus to Amman, then on to Medina, but it was left in tatters by the political turbulence that plagued the region. The Hijaz Railway Museum (set in the original terminus) offers an insight into what might have been and the history behind the route.

Get hands-on with the science and technology displays at the Scitech Technology Center in Dammam, where interactive exhibits engage visitors of all ages. They focus on teaching guests about space and technology as well as the earth and seas, enhancing typical science displays with futuristic ambition.

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Shutterstock; Saudi Tourism Authority; William Gray

Scitech Technology Center, Dammam

There has been a recent revival of ancient crafts

A guide to local crafts Saudi’s traditional arts and crafts can be traced back thousands of years and include intricate weaving, jewellery making, textiles and painting Calligraphy Arabic calligraphy is an elegant form of expression based on the Arabic alphabet. As one of the oldest scripts used to copy the Qur’an, kufic is an early and universal style of Arabic calligraphy. But other styles evolved over the centuries, including dewani, which is seen in the 16th and17th centuries, and riqa, which was developed in the late 19th century.

Sadu weaving Sadu weaving originated in the Bedouin tribes, where women would produce tents, cushions, pillows and adornments for camels. Raw wool goes from cleaning

and spinning to being woven into intricate patterns. Traditionally, it is dyed using natural desert ingredients such as henna and turmeric.

Jewellery making Cultural references to jewellery-making date back to before the Kingdom existed.

Gold and turquoise pieces were popular in the Najd central highlands, while the north and east popularised silver jewellery and coral necklaces.Traditional Saudi jewellery evolved from basic techniques to produce Bedouin-inspired items, face veils, anklets, nose rings and jewels for clothes.

Al Qatt Al Asiri painting

with a very practical purpose. Households would use it for roofing material, floor mats and baskets for storage. Local, national, and international organisations are working to preserve this craft.

Woodwork Many Saudi heritage crafts have grown from having a practical use in everyday life into becoming a form of cultural identity.Woodworking is no exception. Bedouin spoons, wooden panels, boxes and ornate window frames carved using ancient techniques have all been preserved, with some items seeing a revival in modern times, thanks to projects supporting artisans and ancient crafts.

Over 200 years old, Al Qatt Al Asiri painting originated in the Asir region’s mountains.

The geometric shapes and patterns representing female life, local culture and beliefs, were painted as murals by women in guest rooms and entrances to homes.

Palm weaving One of the oldest traditional Saudi crafts, palm weaving is the art of drying and weaving together palm leaves, and it was introduced

Traditional designs from Asir

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FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

Get a taste for authentic Saudi dishes Saudi cuisine is an integral part of the Kingdom’s culture, reflecting a key tenet of traditional Arabic hospitality, where providing food for guests is a source of pride Kabsa A Saudi favourite, this dish is made with rice, meat or chicken, as well as tomatoes, onions, carrots and sometimes other vegetables such as bell peppers. A blend of spices gives kabsa its distinguished taste; dried black lime and coriander, cumin, cinnamon and turmeric are also used generously.

Jareesh Jareesh is Saudi’s national dish and it originated from the northern reaches of the country. It is made from cracked wheat,

Qursan This dish uses unleavened and very thin bread, which is put on a saj to cook on a high heat before being turned.These thin layers of qursan bread are then smothered in a tomato-based vegetable gravy and topped with onions, other veg and sometimes meat.This dish is very popular in Riyadh and Qassim, though there are some differences in how the bread is prepared in these cities.

Maqshush A hearty dish of chicken kabsa

which is a staple in Middle Eastern cuisine.

The wheat is slow-cooked with vegetables and tomato sauce, and broth is continuously added until the wheat is fully cooked and has a porridge-like texture. This can be made with pieces of lamb or chicken, or without. A topping of caramelised onions is added for flavour and garnish.

Recently named Saudi’s national dessert, maqshush is a sweet bread with sugar and a kick of cardamom.The small balls of dough are baked and then served with honey, fresh cream and jams. This dessert is especially popular in the city of Ha’il and is sold in pastry shops across the city as well as in other parts of the country. Also described as buckwheat pan bites, topped with ghee, honey, dates molasses or sugar, maqshush is often eaten when it’s cold and rainy.

Marqooq This dish is made using marqooq dough, which is made from wholewheat flour mixed with water and salt. These pieces of dough are added to a meat broth of vegetables, meat and tomato sauce. Aubergine and carrots are usually the main vegetables in this dish, but several others can be added as well.

Jareesh is Saudi’s national dish

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MUST-VISIT PLACES

Try locals dishes with a fine-dining twist

The best dining experiences in Saudi The local cuisine is incredibly diverse, reflecting the culture and ingredients found across the 13 provinces Tawlat Fayza, AlUla Eating at Tawlat Fayza is about as close as you’ll get to eating in a Saudi home. It’s the perfect place to taste authentic Saudi home cooking, with many of the recipes having been passed down from the co-owners’ grandmother.Their rooftop is an ideal spot to dine at sunset, with views of AlUla’s oasis and rock formations.

Indulge Thyself, Jeddah Based in picturesque Jeddah, IndulgeThyself is unique fine dining. The all-female team offers the first zero-waste fine-dining experience in the Middle East. Using up to 95% locally grown ingredients, their elegant and seasonal fusion menu incorporates international flavours from Japan to Ethiopia and, of course, Saudi.

grown lamb and beef, caviar direct from Dammam, camel steaks and fish from the Red Sea.

Marble, Riyadh Marble’s focus is its open kitchen, where you can watch your meat being cooked over a flame. This is a firm favourite with locals for its US-influenced cooking techniques (including smoked meats), although they’ll soon be adding vegetarian and vegan dishes to their menu.

Heart of the Oasis, AlUla Electricity-free, this candlelit restaurant in the heart of the AlUla Oasis sources 100% of its ingredients, including meat, from the farms surrounding the area.

Takya, Diriyah Experience a modern twist on traditional Saudi cuisine at Takya. In true Saudi tradition, all the dishes they make are designed to share and they use locally sourced ingredients, including camel milk, olives, dates and rice.Try their interpretation of saleeg, a traditional Saudi rice-and-meat dish.

Shutterstock

Maiz, Diriyah A stone’s throw from the UNESCO World Heritage site of At-Turaif, Maiz offers a modern take on Saudi cuisine. Enjoy a combination of flavours from all over the Kingdom’s regions with fresh produce from across the country. Get a true taste of Saudi-

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 37

Coffee has always been a part of Saudi culture, served as a symbol of hospitality, friendship, celebration and respect

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offee is everywhere in Saudi. But it’s not just something you drink; it’s part of your welcome.Traditionally, visitors are offered a small cup of coffee poured from a long-spouted Arabic coffee pot called a dallah.

Always taken in the right hand, coffee is sipped and enjoyed with dates. It is served in small doses as a sign of the host wanting the guest to stay longer and feel at home.

The history of coffee in Saudi It’s believed that coffee beans were originally exported from Ethiopia to Yemen. Later,

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Yemeni traders brought coffee plants back to their homeland and began to grow them there. By the middle of the 15th century, drinking coffee in liquid form was common in the region, as they believed it helped them on long pilgrimages to Mecca and worshipping late into the night.

How is Saudi coffee prepared?

Saudi coffee is prepared by finely grinding gently roasted Arabica beans and boiling with water for a couple of minutes. Finely ground cardamom is then added – and sometimes other spices, such as cloves, saffron, cinnamon or ginger. It’s then sieved before pouring into the dallah for serving.

Every region has its own special mix, so it’s worth trying the coffee in different areas to find your favourite.

What’s the cultural significance of coffee in Saudi?

Saudi coffee is deeply entwined with celebrations and special occasions, playing a pivotal role at weddings, Eid or other festivals. During these occasions, it’s customary to greet guests with a small cup. If you’ve had enough, cover the top of the cup with the

palm of your hand. The host will know you don’t want any more.

Where can I enjoy coffee in Saudi?

The Jazan Coffee Festival is held in the Ad-Dayer governate, showcasing all aspects of coffee in the area and taking place for a week in February. Other coffee festivals are appearing too, like the one held in Riyadh by the Saudi Culinary Arts Commission in September. Modern international styles of coffee can be found everywhere, and stylish cafés serving the highest quality coffee are popping up constantly.

Saudi coffee is a delight

Saudi Tourusm Authoriry; Shutterstock; William Gray

A guide to Saudi coffee culture

FOOD, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

Why are dates so important in Saudi cuisine and culture?

A source of nutrients and a great energy boost, dates have seeped into every aspect of Saudi culture

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audi is one of the world’s largest date-producing countries, with an annual output exceeding 1.6 million tonnes in 2022. Dates have historically been a crucial part of Saudi culture. It’s said that tribal Bedouins survived on dates and camel milk alone for long periods of time, thanks to their rich nutrients and calories.

Many Saudis still start and end their day with this superfruit.

A true superfood

Date palm cultivation in the Arabian Peninsula dates back 4,000 years. In fact, the date palm is mentioned in the Qur’an 22 times, which speaks to its roots in Islam. Dates are also a symbol of hospitality, a core value shaping Saudi culture. Be it a social gathering, a wedding or a business meeting, you will always be welcomed with a cup of Saudi coffee and a bowl of dates.

If you ask any locals to share their cherished memory of consuming dates, it’ll involve gathering with their family and collecting fresh ones, cooking their grandma’s recipes of hasawi or maamoul cookies, or simply sitting together after the Maghrib evening prayer and indulging in their favourite date variety.

The date palm can live for a remarkable 120 years and requires up to 15 years to yield

its first harvest.There are over 300 date varieties produced in the Kingdom, including Sukkari, Ajwa, Medjool, Khalas, Sagai and Barhee.While all are a rich source of potassium and magnesium, their sugar content may vary.

Saudi provinces Al Ahsa and Al Qassim have been hubs of date cultivation for centuries, as dates were an important commodity for trade and commerce in the Arabian Peninsula. Historically, they were traded along ancient caravan routes, including the famous Incense Route, which connected the southern Arabian kingdoms with Mesopotamia, the Levant and the Mediterranean.

A timeless tradition, dates today are a part of many religious and ceremonial events.

During the holy month of Ramadan, it’s customary to break the day-long fast with dates and water or coffee, fostering a deep emotional connection with this desert fruit.

Cafés and restaurants in Riyadh are buzzing late into the night with locals catching up over coffee, savouring their beloved snack along with it.

There are over 300 varieties of date palm here

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 39

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Nabeel Hamad Hasan of Al Basali

What is it really like to travel in Saudi?

Soak up the local street life

Woodturner Hassan Mohammed

Emma Thomson gives an honest account of what travelling in Saudi is like

Saudi Tourism Authority; William Gray

I

t goes without saying that Saudi is a country that has been in the limelight in recent years. Many travellers have built up a number of preconceptions of what it’s like to visit the Kingdom. But travel is about people, not politics. As part of itsVision 2030 programme, Saudi has ushered in a series of reforms that require the outside world (and travellers) to revisit their preconceptions.

On arrival at the airport, I wore a headscarf . “You don’t have to wear that,” reminded the female visa official. “I wanted to be polite,” I replied. “That’s appreciated and it’s your choice, but you really don’t have to,” she added. I’d heard laws had been relaxed and here was proof.

For more than 50 years, Saudi has been more or less closed to the outside world – only those on business or a religious-pilgrimage visa bound for Mecca (Makkah) were allowed to enter. And, historically, secrecy

Wander the streets in peace

is often followed by suspicion. But you’ll be in awe of the cultural riches here, including seven UNESCO World Heritage sites and endless epic experiences.

And what stories the Saudis shared with me. One restaurant owner ushered me into the steamy kitchen where his family had been frying and spicing fish for pilgrims for more than 70 years. Another memorable encounter was the woodturner, who upon seeing me admire a vase he had carved, pressed it into my hands as a gift.

I was expecting the clothing etiquette to be far stricter. But I wore white T-shirts and

long cotton cardigans over loose trousers and received no glances or unwelcome attention.

As I was en route back to my hotel one night, I passed a bench on which three men lazed. I kept my head down, but they waved me over to join them for tea and talk of football.

While customs and habits vary, including the prohibition of selling and consuming alcohol, we don’t travel to have more of the same, we travel to experience new ways of seeing the world. It can be easy to let prejudice and preconceived ideas colour our expectations, but Saudi has much to offer, so come with an open mind.

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 41

I

n 2016, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman launched Vision 2030, an ambitious and wide-ranging plan for economic and social reform.

Part of those changes included reforms to empower women, who are now allowed to drive, attend concerts and other public gatherings, as well as travel and live independently. Of most significance to female travellers are new laws that allow women to stay in hotels without a male guardian’s presence. Similarly, unmarried men and women can now share a room without proof of a marriage licence, while the gendered desegregation of restaurants is a step forward.The hijab and abaya are also no longer mandatory for women. These may seem small graces, but they are nonetheless signs of gradual change, improving the lives of Saudi women and making the Kingdom a freer destination for female travellers.

What were your expectations before visiting Saudi?

I expected the dress codes to be stricter than, say, Iran, but it was the opposite. I also expected to get a few lingering stares for not wearing a headscarf – despite the relaxation of laws – but they never came.The visa application, while expensive, was also easy and fast.

Emma in Al Balad

How I found Saudi as a solo female traveller Social reforms are signalling a change for women in Saudi.

Travel writer Emma Thomson talks about her experiences

42 The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi

What did you enjoy most about your trip to Saudi?

Despite the country’s breakneck race towards modernisation, there are beautiful buildings and historical districts, such as Al Balad in Jeddah, that allow you to envisage an era when camel caravans passed through the country following ancient trade routes.

I also relished the private conversations I had with female artists and artisans, hearing how crucial and powerful these mediums are in allowing them to express themselves.

Did anything surprise you?

I had the pleasure of spending time with Abir Abusulayman, Saudi’s first female tour guide.

Saudi Tourism Authority; William Gray

What was your first impression of Saudi?

The energy and enthusiasm among Saudi’s younger generation for modernisation is palpable. From the get-go, almost everyone I met was warm and engaged, and I felt safe and respected as I wandered solo around the souks – even at night.

Women were highly visible in the workforce, and while many still wear the traditional black abaya and niqab, I got the sense that abayas of different colours and designs are also being worn to reflect a woman’s personal taste.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO When I asked her what life was really like for women, she said: “When we talk about female empowerment, it’s there. My mother worked, my grandmother too – we’ve always worked.

There’s been equal pay for a long time.The media puts us in a certain box, perhaps because, until recently, they couldn’t visit to see the truth. But women have always been the decision makers in the family.They control the house budget, choose which schools their kids will attend and where the family will go on holiday. In the past, leaders would commonly ask their sisters for advice.”

The historic townhouses of Al Balad

As a woman, did you face any barriers when travelling?

Quite the opposite. I enjoyed the unique privilege of being able to spend time in the company of both men and women. Just be sure to avoid any physical contact with men, such as placing a hand on the shoulder, or an inadvertent touch to the hand in a gesture of thanks.

Saudi is open to independent travel and, thanks to new laws, women can stay in hotels without a male guardian or letter of permission. It’s also safe and permissible to travel in Uber taxis alone.

What should other female travellers know before planning a trip to Saudi?

While wearing a hijab and abaya is no longer law, you’re still required to dress modestly and cover knees and shoulders, so it’s worth brushing up on what to wear. You’ll also still need to wear a headscarf when visiting mosques.

What would you recommend solo female travellers see and do when visiting Saudi?

Get out into the desert for soul-shifting periods of silence, take a cooking class to learn Saudi specialities in AlUla and visit the archaeological site of the Tomb of Eve – the grandmother of humanity – in Jeddah.While you’re in this historic city, I’d recommend spending a few days exploring the UNESCO World Heritage site of Al Balad, the Old Town of Jeddah. It boasts a dynamic arts and crafts scene and offers great opportunities to spend time with locals.

Trying traditional coffee

Days of Bliss Library in Jeddah

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 43

Covering up protects you in exposed sunlight

For women Saudi is a nation in flux, and attitudes towards clothing and its enforcement have evolved rapidly in recent years. Traditionally, all women were obliged to wear an abaya – a loose, robe-like dress – with a hijab (headscarf) or the more conservative niqab, which is a headscarf (usually black) that reveals only the eyes. The niqab or abaya are no longer mandatory, and some young women, especially in cities, have welcomed the change. Others have made the personal choice to continue to wear them, especially at their place of work.

44 The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi

What you should wear Discover how to dress in every situation and season in Saudi Clothes that are tight-fitting or see-through are still prohibited, but alternatives to the abaya, such as long cardigans or cotton kimonos, are being embraced and are an excellent option for female travellers when worn over loose-fitting shirts. For the bottom half, we suggest baggy trousers or ankle-length skirts; jeans tend to be too

clingy and hot. Ensure tops have a high neckline to avoid exposing any cleavage.

For men Dress codes are generally the same for men and women, with an emphasis on smart dress depending on the establishment. Modesty is expected in and around religious sites. Saudi

Reem Abdulghani at work

Alamy; Shutterstock; William Gray

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s part of Saudi’s Vision 2030 – an ambitious programme to embrace tourism and reduce the country’s economic reliance on oil – a series of reforms have been rolled out over the last few years.

This is evident in the changing attitudes towards clothing, particularly in forward-thinking cities – perhaps less so in countryside towns, which remain quietly more conservative. Saudi thrives on its traditions, and many men and women continue to choose to dress modestly, covering their shoulders and knees. Adhering to this is appreciated and will maximise your enjoyment of the country.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Artist Rana Alsaggaf

Local attire for men is called the thobe

where both sexes mingle, but usually men and women pray in different rooms or divided by a screen or curtain.

On an adventure Even when you’re out in the wilds, you’ll still be expected to dress modestly, and wearing long layers helps to avoid sunburn.

Choose clothing made from cotton, linen, or other light materials for during the day, but also pack a warmer layer for after sunset, when the temperature can get decidedly chilly. Away from the crowds, it’s usually alright to wear T-shirts that come down to your elbow. A hat and sunscreen are always essential.

Comfortable trainers are best for hiking and desert exploration. International hotels and private beaches vary in their pool accessibility, between mixed pools and men-only/ women-only services, so it’s best to check before you book. men can be seen in the traditional thobe, or thawb, a loose-fitting robe that is usually white in summer, while darker colours are worn in winter. Some may also wear the ghutra, a chequered white-and-red headdress kept in place with a double braid of black cord known as an agal. Casual wear is embraced in shopping centres and public spaces in general.

At religious sites Home to the holy cities of Mecca (Makkah) and Medina (Madinah), Saudi welcomes around 2 million Muslims during the annual Hajj pilgrimage. Mecca is closed to

non-Muslims, but travellers wishing to visit Medina and Saudi’s other 94,000 mosques are asked to dress conservatively.

Travellers don’t have to dress the same as locals. Long-sleeved tops and trousers or long skirts that cover the ankles are fine.

In some mosques, the imam is also OK with foreign women not covering their hair, but it’s rare, and wearing a headscarf is appreciated, so carry one in your bag.

Most mosques have separate entrances for men and women, and you need to remove your shoes, which can be stored on shelves outside the door, before entering.

There may be a common gathering room

Time of year There are really only two seasons in Saudi: summer and winter. Temperatures range from a toasty 20°C in spring/winter (falling to 10°C in the mountains), to a roasting 40°C in summer, so covering up to protect your skin makes sense. Even January, the coldest month, averages nine hours of daily sunshine and daytime lows of 18°C, depending on where you are. It can get down to freezing point in mountainous areas like Tabuk, where you can find snow.

Mosquitoes are also prevalent after dark and during winter, particularly in the cities, so it’s worth bringing repellent.

Access to Makkah’s holy mosque is limited to Muslims

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 45

Know your seasons Ignore the outdated preconception that Saudi is scorching hot year-round – this is a country with distinct regions and climates

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poiler alert: it’s not always hot in Saudi.

Hugged by the glittering waters of the Arabian Gulf and Red Sea, the Kingdom’s huge size means it experiences a variety of climates. Keep in mind that right across the country there are huge weather variations from region to region.

Winter While every season has its charm, winter is popular with locals. Beginning in October, the weather gradually gets cooler and then starts to warm up from March onwards.

Daytime temperatures range from 20 to 30°C in the Eastern Province and Riyadh, while it’s comfortable to wander the country’s major cities, such as Riyadh and Dammam, at night in mild temperatures.

In Jeddah, some evenings may drop as low

as 20°C between January and March, with daytime highs of 30°C. Winter’s lower temperatures are ideal for exploring the desert and mountains. Even snow is possible in the northern wilds of Jabal Al Lawz in Tabuk. As March arrives, there’s a higher chance of rainfall (between March and May has the most rain). If you do encounter a bout of inclement weather, consider that, locally, rainfall in the region is seen as a blessing from the skies that refreshes the lands.

Summer Saudi summers are characterised by extreme heat, dryness in the central provinces near Riyadh and strong humidity in the Eastern Province and coastal areas. Both Mecca (Makkah) and Asir provinces, home to popular cities Taif and Abha respectively, enjoy

Summer hits highs of 40ºC

cooler temperatures throughout the year, averaging 25°C. Late summer in Saudi is the perfect time to celebrate the emerald palm trees that envelop the Kingdom, particularly in Al Ahsa, the largest oasis in the world. While temperatures will range from 30°C and above during the day, an escape to Al Ahsa will guarantee cool nights of 25°C. Note that late summer is the start of school and work for many in the nation and can be characterised by a rush of traffic and events, especially around 7am and 2pm. Be prepared and book any excursions or events in advance.

Shutterstock; Saudi Tourism Authority

Winter can bring snow to Jabal Al Lawz

46 The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Check out the cultural calendar Locals love nothing more than to celebrate their culture. Here are the key dates for your diary

JANUARY

MAY

SEPTEMBER

For a taste of the nation’s diverse music and arts scene, attend the weeklong Qemam International Festival for Mountain Performance Arts.

The festival is held in the province of Asir and features dances, music and poetry.

Al Qunfudhah’s annual fiveday Mango Festival is held on the city’s corniche. The wider area boasts 3,000 mango farms and 500,000 mango trees.

In September, cities across the nation light up green and white in honour of the country’s National Day on the 23rd; it’s a unique time to experience the pride and patriotism of the Saudi people.

FEBRUARY

JUNE

OCTOBER

For a diverse mix of cultural, sporting and entertainment events, visiting Riyadh Season is a must. It runs from late October to early March.

Get a taste of Jazan’s fruits by attending the annual Mango and Tropical Fruits Festival, held in Sabya.

The region has over a million mango trees, plus figs, papayas, bananas and more.

MARCH

JULY

NOVEMBER

Ring in the spring with Sharqiah Season, a festival that celebrates the warm culture of the Eastern Province by showcasing traditions such as basket weaving with palm leaves and traditional dances.

For a true summer experience by the Red Sea, head to Jeddah’s annual Summer Festival, which features musical acts, fresh seafood and the chance to swim and dive.

Diriyah Season (part of the bigger Riyadh Season) is an all-encompassing festival that commemorates the area’s historical structure and the origins of the Kingdom’s House of Saud.

APRIL Head to Taif’s Rose Festival. The annual festival commemorates the rose flower with cultural exhibitions and a plethora of harvests.

AUGUST Save a date for the Buraidah Date Festival in the Qassim region, which boasts the highest number of palm trees in the Kingdom, at 11.4 million evergreen palms.

October is when the Riyadh Season launches (lasting until March), where every aspect of Saudi culture is celebrated.

DECEMBER To explore traditional Arabic music, head to Winter at Tantora, the Kingdom’s first annual music and arts event that takes place in AlUla.

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 47

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Where to 2 stay in Saudi Discover Saudi’s luxurious hotels, where tradition and unmatched hospitality ensures every guest gets a royal experience

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audi’s hotel scene is a treasure trove of opulence, eco-conscious retreats and immersive experiences. Eco-friendly stays embrace sustainable practices, showcasing Saudi’s commitment to preserving its natural beauty. Each stay is a journey through Saudi culture and hospitality, promising unforgettable moments in a land where tradition harmoniously coexists with modernity.

1

Habitas AlUla

Nestled between the cliffs and desert, Habitas AlUla is a luxury interpretation of a traditional Bedouin desert camp. Each of the impressive villas has its own spectacular view – either panoramas of the sandstone canyon walls or of the Ashar Valley. At night, celestial wonders abound, as AlUla’s pristine night sky transforms into a mesmerising canvas for stargazing. Come day, feast on fresh Middle Eastern flavours in the outdoor Tama restaurant.

Four Seasons, Riyadh

In the Saudi capital’s vibrant heart lies the Four Seasons Riyadh, a harmonious blend of opulence and Arabian allure. The hotel offers lavish rooms and suites with panoramic city views and plush furnishings with a uniquely Middle Eastern style.

Unwind by the refreshing pool or enjoy a bespoke spa treatment. For that extra hit of romantic luxury, a single candlelit table for two can be set up on the Sky Bridge (300m high) that spans the top of the KingdomCentre.

3

The Ritz-Carlton, Jeddah

4

The St Regis Red Sea Resort

On the shores of the Red Sea, The Ritz-Carlton Jeddah epitomises Arabian elegance, set in a glamorous former palace.

Experience refined living in exquisitely designed rooms and suites, and admire views of the Red Sea or the majestic King Fahd Fountain.

Savour a symphony of flavours at the hotel’s restaurants, where culinary artistry meets Arabian traditions. Each dining experience is a journey through local and global cuisines, representing the cultural melting pot that is Jeddah.

Located on the private Red Sea island of Ummahat, The St Regis Red Sea Resort can only be reached by chartered boat or seaplane from the Saudi mainland. This

makes it a truly secluded haven from which you can escape everyday life.

There are 90 overwater and beachfront villas in the resort, each with private pools, large outdoor areas and ultra-modern décor. When not relaxing, explore the vibrant marine life through diving, or simply relax by the infinity pool.

Six Senses Southern Dunes

48 The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi

Banyan Tree AlUla

Banyan Tree AlUla is a sanctuary of serenity and adventure in the beautiful Ashar Valley, which is filled with dramatic canyons and wind-carved rock formations. Whether you’re in the tranquillity of a private luxury villa or exploring the enchanting surroundings, Banyan Tree AlUla inspires an appreciation for the beauty of nature.

Red Sea Global; Saudi Tourism Authority

5

MUST-VISIT PLACES

The St Regis Red Sea Resort

Discover the desert’s secrets with guided tours to historical sites and rock formations.

For the adventurous, embark on thrilling hot air balloon rides over the breathtaking desert scenery. Alternatively, engage in workshops to develop a deeper connection with Saudi heritage.

6

Six Senses Southern Dunes, Red Sea

Set on the historic incense trade route between the Red Sea and the Hijaz Mountains, Six Senses Southern Dunes redefines luxury and adventure. Each of the 36 suites and 40 villas is an architectural masterpiece, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows, Arabian carvings and views of the wadi sand dunes. Dive into adventure with aquatic sports and desert safaris or visit an artisan village.

7

Dar Al Taqwa Hotel, Medina (Madinah)

Just steps from the entrance to the Prophet’s Mosque in Saudi’s holy city of Medina, this stay is a sanctuary of spiritual serenity.

Guests are treated to great views of the Holy Mosque, ensuring a deep connection with the spiritual heart of the city.

Engage in prayers and immerse yourself in the tranquillity that surrounds this sacred site. Savour culinary excellence at the hotel’s restaurants, where international and local flavours are presented with flair.

8

Jareed Hotel, Riyadh

Situated in The Boulevard, Riyadh’s luxury district, Jareed Hotel promises elegantly decorated suites with rolltop bathtubs and

floor-to-ceiling windows with views across Riyadh. Escape to the tranquil Jimam Spa for a treatment, or dine in the ambient Morini restaurant, complete with walls adorned with photographs and Arabian carvings.

9

Assila, Jeddah

Assila hotel is where Saudi heritage and contemporary design meets. Elegant rooms and residential apartments, along with a rooftop pool and over 2,000 works of art, make this a luxury hotel like no other in Jeddah.

Experience a symphony of flavours at the hotel’s world-class restaurants, where international and local cuisines are elevated to an art form. Explore Jeddah’s cultural treasures before returning to Assila’s serenity.

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 49

Six tours to get beneath the surface of Saudi Join a guide to tour the Kingdom and learn more about its culture and history

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Medina (Madinah)

Rajajil

Hit the big sites in one go

See Saudi on two feet

Head off the beaten track

Wild Frontiers’ Inside the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia trip tours the townhouses of Jeddah’s historic district (Al Balad) before travelling to the holy city of Medina (Madinah). As the desert takes over, you’ll walk parts of the Oasis Trail to the ruins of AlUla’s mud-brick Old Town, then see the wonders of the Nabataean city of Hegra.

11 days from £5,004pp, excluding international flights.

Explore’s Explore the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia trip has two interesting walking tours bookending its classic Riyadh-Jeddah route. The first is a walking tour with a female Saudi guide through the streets of Riyadh, then at the end of your visit you’ll stroll the UNESCO-listed historic centre of Jeddah (Al Balad).

13 days from £4,309pp, excluding international flights.

The Saudi Small Group Tour with Undiscovered Destinations takes plenty of detours from the standard Riyadh-Jeddah route. The usual stars – Diriyah, AlUla, Jubbah’s petroglyphs – all feature, but it’s side-trips to sites such as ancient Rajajil (Saudi’s Stonehenge) and the oasis of Tayma that really catch the eye.

14 days from £5,699pp, excluding international flights.

Jeddah

Saudi Tourism Authority; Shutterstock

Al Balad, Jeddah

Hegra, AlUla

Hijaz train wreck

See Saudi from a local point of view

Dive deeper into ancient AlUla

Follow the old Hijaz Railway

Exodus Travel’s Saudi Explorer: Across the Arabian Peninsula gives a look at life in between Riyadh and Jeddah.Visits to historic sites such as AlUla’s ruins are paired with community visits, including wandering the Women’s and Al Jerredah souks in Buraydah and a trip to Taif’s famous rose factory.

14 days from £4,599pp, excluding international flights

Abercrombie & Kent’s Classic Saudi Arabia tour from Riyadh to Jeddah spends a good deal of time in AlUla, as you explore the ruins of Dadan where mesmerising tombs are etched into the cliffs. But the star of the show here is Hegra, the ‘second city’ of the Nabataeans (the other being Petra in Jordan).

7 nights from £12,375pp, including international flights.

Corinthian Travel’s Saudi Arabia and the Hijaz Railway trip delves into the curious history of the doomed Hijaz railway.The most striking sight is of two trains that lie where they were derailed during the Arab Revolt (1916– 18). Along the way, enjoy trips to the Tuwaiq Escarpment and the Hijaz Railway Museum in Medina (Madinah). 10 days from £4,980pp, excluding international flights.

The Wanderlust Explorer’s Guide to Saudi 51

Learn more www.visitsaudi.com