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Indigenous travels
Few modern travel ‘trends’ spark true, unbridled excitement in me. Certainly not those driven by influencers posing in front of a limited list of landmarks, mimicking what they’ve seen elsewhere on social media and leaving without understanding the significance of what they’ve captured. However, I am genuinely thrilled by the rise of Indigenous tourism across the world. But what is it, you might be asking, and why do we recommend it to Wanderlust readers?
Indigenous tourism is a key part of immersive, communitydriven travel, where experiences are designed to connect travellers with the stories, traditions and deep-rooted cultures of Indigenous peoples. It’s about more than just taking snapshots of landscapes or monuments; these are authentic, immersive experiences that are about engaging with, and respectfully appreciating, cultures that have existed for millennia.
At Wanderlust, we’ve been championing this kind of travel since the early 1990s, and we’ve seen real changes along the way. While the travel industry has a long history of exploiting Indigenous communities, we are now witnessing a powerful shift: Indigenous groups around the world are reclaiming their narratives and running their own visitor experiences.
With the guidance of a global advisory board of Indigenous tourism leaders, we’re proud to present our first-ever edition of The Origin List (p166), featuring 50 standout experiences from across the globe. We’ve placed a special emphasis on Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Sápmi and the USA, where Indigenous tourism associations are leading the charge in empowering local communities through travel.
In this issue – our biggest yet! – we also take you on a themed journey around the world, with stories spanning the Zulu people of South Africa (p88), the nomads of Kazakhstan (p118) and the Indigenous peoples of Costa Rica (p104).
Finally, our cover star Brazil is one of the world’s most culturally rich destinations. We let it shine in a dedicated trip planner (p202) where we explore everything from Amazonian expeditions to the urban delights of Salvador, Recife and Ouro Preto.
As always, we hope to inspire you to add depth and meaning to your journeys while exploring our beautiful planet far and wide! Safe travels,
Remarkable tales… (top to bottom) The unceasing joy of travel is realising how many stories there are still to discover. This issue, we encounter opera houses and Indigenous cultures in the Brazilian Amazon (p202) and seek out the battlefields and wildlife of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal (p88), where a very modern kind of fight –against poaching – is being fought, and won, in its private reserves
PAID PROMOTIONAL FEATURES
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Contributors
KAREN EDWARDS
Ethical wildlife trips, p53
“It’s not just the obvious entertainment venues and ‘sanctuaries’ that can mistreat animals, even safaris can be exploitative. Travelling with expert-led, ethically-minded operators and guides is more likely to provide unforgettable nature experiences while limiting your impact, so always research your trip.”
SHAFIK MEGHJI
The Origin List, p166
“Spending time at the Chalalán eco-lodge in the heart of the Bolivian Amazon gave me an insight into the lives, cultures and beliefs of its Indigenous peoples. I also saw the role they play in protecting Madidi National Park from threats such as poaching, deforestation and illegal gold mining.”
JAMES MARCH
Germany, p72
“I’ve always loved the buzz of Germany’s modern metropolises, but time slows down within its old castle hotels. Often flanked by serpentine rivers, arcing hillsides or gently lapping lakes, these dramatic rural perches change character with the seasons and offer a window into a rich past.”
LINA ZELDOVICH
Costa Rica, p104
“In Costa Rica, I was both inspired and humbled by its Indigenous people’s knowledge and love of their land, as well as their ability to live in harmony with nature, taking only what’s needed and preserving the rest. If we can learn from their wisdom, our planet will be healthier and happier – and so will we.”
KIKI DEERE
Italy, p262
“The little-known Italian border region of Friuli Venezia Giulia squeezes in a wide variety of landscapes and cultural influences. I was intrigued by Trieste’s rich coffee culture, struck by Aquileia’s spectacular Roman remains and curious about the casoni (fishermen’s huts) that dot the region’s lagoons.”
ALEX ROBINSON
Brazil, p202
“A São Paulo friend once told me that speaking Brazilian Portuguese is ‘like eating a ripe mango’. Few other languages are so sensuous and musical – it’s like the lilt of sung samba. Immerse yourself in this music and learn a few words before you leave. Nowhere makes it easier to absorb a language.”
Diversity In Travel Writing Matters
Since 2020, Wanderlust has committed to working on commissioning at least 20% of its content from travel writers from underrepresented backgrounds and historically underrepresented groups. These include members of Indigenous communities, people of colour, LGBTQIA+ activists, people with health conditions or impairments, and people from disadvantaged socio-economic backgrounds. We want everyone to share their passion for travel with our readers!
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In memory of Co-founder & Publisher Paul Morrison
Who is the Traveller?
We’ve often met you at events and shows, but through our 2024 Reader Survey, we set out to understand what we all share in common. Meet the typical Wanderlust traveller…
Well-informed
Wanderlust travellers love to research their journeys. They book their trips with expert tour operators and explore with knowledgeable local guides.
A dventurous
Wanderlust travellers are curious about the world and always seek out the road less travelled. They delve beneath the surface of a destination to find authentic experiences all year round.
N ature-loving
Wanderlust travellers relish the feeling of being in the natural world. They delight in exploring the outdoors and encountering wildlife where it belongs: in the wild!
D iscerning
Wanderlust travellers seek out meaningful culture, art, music and gastronomic experiences to better immerse themselves in the destinations they visit.
E clectic
Wanderlust travellers have a wide range of interests and will explore every angle of a destination. From hiking and rail adventures to luxury stays and expedition cruises, each journey is always different.
R espectful
Wanderlust travellers care about their impact on people and the planet. They cherish local customs, traditions and values, including those of Indigenous communities. They always opt for ethical wildlife experiences.
L
ocally focused
Wanderlust travellers actively support local communities and businesses. They seek out accommodation, restaurants and shopping experiences with a clear sense of place, and they forge lasting connections with the locals they meet.
U nbiased
Wanderlust travellers are open-minded and receptive. They are keen to form their own opinions about a destination and are willing to challenge preconceptions and prejudices.
S ustainable
Wanderlust travellers aspire to travel sustainably. They are conscious of their carbon footprint as well as their impact on local communities and the planet. They want their journey to be a force for good.
T railblazing
Wanderlust travellers are pioneers in exploring emerging destinations and are always open to new experiences. They embrace off-season travel, take longer trips and go beyond the usual tourist hotspots.
CHECK IN
15 Viewfinder
Our photographers capture the American South in nine images
24 Just Back From…
Piecing together the history of the Nabataeans in Petra and Hegra; plus this month’s letters
29 Your Photos
You send us your top travel shots
JOURNAL
33 Grapevine
All the latest travel news and views, plus dark skies, Christmas markets and Viennese culture
43 Set-Jetting
Roam the moors of Outlander, the TV sci-fi romance that put Scotland on the cult-travel map
45 Armchair Travel
The latest books and podcasts to fire your winter adventures
51 Health
Why you should get your travel vaccinations in order this year
53 Sustainable Travel
How to tell if your wildlife encounter is ethical or not
58 Departures
We pick the trips offering the best insights into the world’s Indigenous communities
66 World Food
The Edo era changed Japanese cuisine forever. Discover its legacy in modern-day Tokyo
68 Dream Sleep: Jeddah’s Heritage Hotels
How a new wave of historic stays has opened up Jeddah’s remarkable Old Town
72 WanderSleeps: Germany
Live out your own Grimms’ fairy tale in Germany’s most magical castle getaways
TRAVELOGUES
88 KwaZulu-Natal
While the battlefields of South Africa’s KwaZula-Natal shine a light on its turbulent past, a different kind of war – against poaching – is being fought, and won, in its private reserves
104 Costa Rica
After surviving colonisation, deforestation and enforced labour, Costa Rica’s Indigenous peoples are reviving traditions and ecosystems thought lost 118 Kazakhstan
With the World Nomad Games having lit up Astana this year, we look at a nation learning to balance its nomadic roots with its fast-paced, oil-fuelled present
138 Andalucía
Join a high-speed rail journey across Andalucía, where the jewels of Islamic-era Spain still underpin much of what we traditionally think of as ‘Spanish’ 154 Bordeaux & Cognac
As the cognac houses and wineries of south-west France
increasingly open their doors to travellers, it’s time to explore the history behind its iconic tipples
166 The Origin List
We pick 50 Indigenous experiences – with the help of our panel of experts – that offer a more sustainable approach to
travel and open up an exciting world of traditional knowledge
202 Brazil: Trip Planner
From opera houses in the jungle to samba dancing in Rio, these are the best routes to experience Brazil’s explosive mix of nature, cities, culture and carnivals
224 Travel Photo of the Year: The Winners Return
Our prize-winners return from a photo assignment in Singapore. Here’s what caught their eye…
DISCOVER
258 Museum Cities
The museum treasures behind Dubrovnik’s historic streets
262 European Short Break
Italy’s Friuli Venezia Giulia is quiet, cultured and everything its louder Venetian neighbour isn’t
270 Wildlife Encounters
It’s wild up north! Explore the deer-scattered highlands and orca-filled seas of Scotland
274 British Break
Why the cliffs, castles and golden beaches of the Gower Peninsula are like Wales in miniature
285 WanderQuiz
Think you know your Latin American wildlife? Think again...
290 Top Guide
Costa Rican guide Glenda Araya on why you’ve not lived until you’ve seen a two-toed sloth
Hambone Art & Music, Clarksdale, Mississippi
Photographer: Candice Kalb
For this special edition of our Viewfinder pages, we sent a team of photographers across the American South – in partnership with Travel South USA – to capture the region how we see it. Where better to begin than Mississippi, the birthplace of the blues. It was here that early icons such as Howlin’ Wolf and Robert Johnson were raised, then found their voices on the Chitlin’ Circuit – venues that let Black musicians express themselves in an era of segregation. They would do so in a way that changed music forever. The legacy of another local blues legend, the late BB King, can be traced in his hometown museum in Indianola, with 2025 marking a century since his birth. But while many of the old greats are sadly gone, their music is still heard nightly in the clubs of Clarksdale, where artists like Mississippi Marshall (pictured) remind us what the Delta truly sounds like. ⊲
Country Manor Acres, Townsend, Tennessee
Photographer: Amelia Le Brun
As travellers, we know more than most that a memorable experience is made up of many highly personal things. However, sometimes there are experiences you just have to try because the location demands it. This shot, taken at Country Manor Acres, a private equestrian estate near the city of Townsend, in the foothills of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, shows a horse returning from a trek out in the hills. In the state of Tennessee, which is home to more than 200,000 horses – that’s around one for every 35 people – and where about a third of all of its farmland is given over to horse-related activities, seeing the Great Smoky Mountains from anything other than a saddle just wouldn’t have the same effect. You can walk, run, climb or paraglide, but when one animal is so engrained in local life and history, sometimes you have to give in and grab the reins.
Pickle Creek, Hawn State Park, Missouri
Photographer: William Gray
While many are happy to make long pilgrimages to glimpse the USA’s national parks, the country’s state parks are often overlooked. Yet many are not only beautiful but also have tales to tell, especially in Missouri.
Scenic Hawn State Park, for example, lies near Ste Geneviève, the first town founded in the state by FrenchCanadian settlers. It was created by a local teacher, who bought up 600 hectares of land across her lifetime and gifted it to the government on her death. Another remarkable feat is Ha Ha Tonka State Park, whose castle ruins reflect the lost dream of a local businessman to create a Europeanstyle escape on the Lake of the Ozarks, until it burnt down. But easily the most poignant of Missouri’s state parks is the Trail of Tears in Cape Girardeau, which is both captivating and tells the tragic story of the removal of the Indigenous Cherokee from their homeland.
Little St Simons, Georgia
Photographer: Candice Kalb
The South is filled with wild secrets, and nowhere more so than on the coast, where barrier islands scatter estuaries and shorelines, hiding histories and incredible wildlife. Georgia has more than a dozen major islands, including the privately owned Little St Simons. In 2025, it celebrates a decade since it became officially protected under the banner of The Nature Conservancy; now this wild slice of mudflats, marshes, old growth oak forest and 11km of beaches in the mouth of the Altamaha River will remain untouched. With a single lodge hosting 32 people, visits offer a chance to roam Georgia’s barrier islands from within, exploring a wildlife corridor spanning cypress swamps and salty estuary. Here lurk alligators (pictured), though this is also a prime spot on the Atlantic Migratory Flyway, with 250 species of bird spotted year-round. Some secrets are clearly well worth keeping.
Beaufort, South Carolina
Photographer: Amelia Le Brun
Even in South Carolina, a state flush with pre-Civil War mansions and live oaks yawning with Spanish moss, the town of Beaufort is a rare Southern beauty. But beyond its whitewashed facades lies a past little-known to most visitors, rooted in the history of the Gullah Geechee – the descendants of enslaved West Africans transported to the sea islands off South Carolina in the 18th century. Isolated from the mainland, the Gullah clung to their cultures and traditions, preserving them even today. Their story is now told on tours across the barrier islands, but it can be seen even in Beaufort. In 2024, a monument to the 19th-century abolitionist Harriet Tubman was unveiled in downtown, honouring her work in helping the emancipated Gullah, while the city’s Original Gullah Festival (May) lets you meet the community and learn first-hand about the crafts and skills they have passed down the generations.
Corolla, North Carolina
Photographer: Amelia Le Brun
Sometimes history and wildlife collide in unusual ways – and often to the benefit of travellers. One of the best examples of this is found galloping the sands of North Carolina, where feral horses roam the Outer Banks – a 320km string of barrier islands and sand spits. These animals are descended from the colonial Spanish mustangs that were brought across as early as the 16th century and are thought to have escaped or been abandoned when the Spanish departed. One of the largest herds is found on the shores of Corolla, where they have survived in relative isolation, managed and protected by a local non-profit since 1989. Here you can join 4WD tours with Wild Horse Adventures to see and photograph them up close – though always maintaining a 15m distance. For visitors, they are an incredible sight and a poignant reminder that life doesn’t just stop when people leave.
New River Gorge National Park & Preserve, West Virginia
Excelsior Band at Bienville Fountain, Mobile, Alabama
Photographer: Candice Kalb
You’re rarely far from the past in Mobile. The oldest city in Alabama was the first capital of the French Louisiana Territory, a region that once stretched from the Gulf of Mexico to Hudson Bay before it was lost to the British and Spanish in 1763. So it’s perhaps less of a surprise that it was here, and not in New Orleans, where the first Mardi Gras carnival was held in the USA, in 1703. It’s a fact not many travellers know, and those that do arrive for the festivities these days will be surprised to find a more laid-back, community-driven festival than its busier Louisiana cousin. Striding at the front of many of the 40 downtown parades – usually in trademark black suits and caps – is the Excelsior Band (pictured), a brass marching band that was founded in Mobile back in 1883. It’s one more example of a city where the past is always present, even when you’re dancing behind a giant float.
Natural Bridge State Resort Park, Kentucky
Photographer: William Gray
Bourbon, bluegrass music and horses – for most visitors, these are the keystones of Kentucky. But what is often forgotten by your third glass of Buffalo Trace is just how wild the state can be. There is no shortage of natural wonders in which to lose yourself, from the longest known cave system in the world at Mammoth Cave National Park to the 36,000 sq km of Wildlands that span the south-east. The latter is almost unchanged since Daniel Boone first cut a path through Cumberland Gap in 1775, plotting the route that some 200,000 settlers would follow. Today, the Daniel Boone National Forest encompasses sites such as the kayaking and climbing mecca of Red River Gorge, and lies just next to Natural Bridge State Resort Park (pictured), known for its grand limestone arch. Gazing across this landscape even today, it’s hard not to feel like you’re back on the frontier.
Petra and Hegra: The land of the Nabataeans
The ruins of Jordan’s Petra and Saudi Arabia’s Hegra represent the opposite ends of an empire that never gets the attention it deserves, writes Alice Morrison
WHO ARE THE NABATAEANS?
Are the Nabataeans the greatest civilisation you were never taught about in school?
This peaceful trading empire, based in the Arabian peninsula, reached peak influence between 200 BC and 100 AD, and was contemporaneous with the Romans and the Pharoahs. Certainly, judging by what they left behind, we should want to know more. You will certainly have heard of their greatest legacy: Jordan’s Rose Red City of Petra. It spans more than 261 sq km and is up
there with the pyramids and Machu Picchu in terms of iconic imagery. Even if you’ve never been there, you’ll recognise it from the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, whose dramatic climax used the exterior of Al-Khazneh (TheTreasury) as a scene setter. One article in 2023 even claimed that it was the most Googled film location ever.
Less well known is the Nabataeans’ second great city, Hegra, in the AlUla region of Saudi Arabia.This only reopened to visitors a few years ago, but its reputation is growing.
The Nabataeans left us almost no written records, but we know they were rich merchants who controlled the frankincense and myrrh trade. It is thought that they didn’t use enslaved people; they enjoyed wine, though, and the King was said to serve his guests with his own hands.Women held high positions in society, and queens could pass the crown to their daughters. And after visiting both of these ruined cities, my favourite fact is that they had a penchant for ostrich-feather cushions. Alamy;
Alice Morrison
MAIN HIGHLIGHTS
Some things can’t compete in real life with how they are shown in films and photos, but the walk into Petra will exceed all your expectations. From the cold gorges of the narrow Siq, the magnificent Al-Khazneh building emerges in a blaze of golden light.
You are walking in the footsteps of pilgrims going up to their holiest spot when you climb the hundreds of steps to the High Place of Sacrifice in Petra. There you will find a place for congregation – as well as lots of carved basins and channels, which give us clues as to how the people here worshipped. It also has a magnificent view over the site and to the desert beyond.
In Hegra, Qasr al-Farid is a giant carved rock standing alone in the middle of the sands. It looks like it has been dropped from outer space. It is the biggest tomb at the site, though it was never finished, and its name can be translated as ‘The Lonely Castle’.
In the small on-site museum, forensic archaeologists have used the latest reconstruction techniques to recreate a Nabataean citizen, known as Hinat. She is based on the remains of a woman who was buried in one of the tombs, and her eyes haunt you. But learning about her made this ancient civilisation come alive for me.
MUST-SEE
AlUla’s Hegra is a series of tombs spread across a vast desert landscape. Golf buggies will whizz you between the points of interest.The Diwan, the chamber of the king and priests, gives a glimpse of royal life.Take time to walk behind it and look at the rocks on your right.You can spot niches carved out for the Gods, and also the water channels that allowed people to thrive in this arid spot.
One of the things that makes this site so special is that there are inscriptions written above some of the tombs.They’re written in Nabataean, a form of early Aramaic, which gave birth to Arabic.
Beside the carved eagles, snakes and sphinxes are these words from a powerful woman: “This is the burial niche which Wushuh, daughter of Bagrat, made for herself within the rock tomb belonging to her and her daughters…..may Dushara, the god of our lord, and all the gods curse
from
whoever removes this Wushuh from this burial niche for ever.”
In Jordan, Little Petra was essentially the caravan and camel park of the Nabataean merchants. They typically unloaded their goods here and then walked through the rock channels to do business, relax and be entertained by their local hosts. The only remaining decorated plasterwork is in a cave here. It shows naked ladies, musical cherubs and plump doves.They clearly had a taste for the good life.
Shadows of the Nabataeans (opposite page) Night tours of Petra really set the mood as you emerge from the Siq to see the impressive exterior of Al-Khazneh (The Treasury) – just as Indiana Jones did; (this page; clockwise from top) the Qasr al-Farid (Lonely Castle) is aptly named; Little Petra was a staging post for the traders heading on to Petra – be sure to stroll the path to its Painted House, which has faded frescoes of birds, flowers and vines; Alice Morrison [right] and her guide in Hegra, Widad; Hegra dates
the 1st century BC and contains more than 110 monumental tombs, but it isn’t the only attraction in AlUla
JUST BACK FROM...
From Little Petra, walk up the back route to the main site. Far fewer tourists come this way, and you’ll emerge at the high point of Ad-Deir (The Monastery), which has a handy café opposite for a tea break.
The Nabataeans will keep you busy, but do visit the Byzantine church too.There are some fabulous mosaics and lots of still-unrestored blocks of Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns.You can explore for yourself and discover new pieces of history.
TOP TIPS
For both sites, book a guide.There is so much to discover that you will need someone to help you through it. It will give you a chance to meet local Saudis and Jordanians too. My guide in Hegra was a woman,Widad, and I could ask her about modern Saudi life.
The Jordan walking trail goes through Petra and it is a magnificent hike – especially the stage from Dana to Petra.You can really feel what it would have been like to be a trader bringing in your goods.
CAUTIONARY TALE
Be aware of the climate extremes. It can be both boiling hot and freezing cold. In Petra, especially, the narrow gorges can make for icy winds.
I WISH I’D KNOWN
I was worried about being a woman travelling in Saudi alone, and I really needn’t have been. I found a friendly, hospitable people who were really proud of their country and culture. I felt safe and looked-after.
AlUla is also much more than just Hegra. At night, all the local families in the main town come out of their houses to stroll the main street and listen to the live music that is often playing.There are lots of stalls with free cardamom-scented Arabic coffee and dates. Alice Morrison’s series, Arabian Adventures, about the Nabataeans in Petra and AlUla is available to watch now on BBC iPlayer.
Game time (top) A kokpar match at the World Nomad
YOUR LETTERS
Let the Games commence
I can’t help but feel that Wanderlust has been following me around the world. I returned from Antarctica to your article on the same; likewise my cruise up the west coast of Greenland! Now I have just returned from the World Nomad Games in Kazakhstan to find that you are covering them in this edition [see page 118]. My visit was a fantastic experience: local people affirming their culture, through sport, for themselves –not on the world stage but on a regional one. And the startling Modernist architecture of Astana contrasted well with the ancient (yet practical) sporting traditions of Central Asia. Nigel Branscombe
More love for Kazakhstan
Five years ago, I went with a friend to Kyrgyzstan. We had two nights in different yurt camps, and during one of them we were treated to a display of nomad games. We were so smitten that when the chance
of a trip to Kazakhstan came up – including a visit to this year’s World Nomad Games in Astana –we had to go!
It was fabulous, with four nights in each of Aktau, Almaty and Astana, and a night on a train. Aktau, on the Caspian Sea, is little visited by tourists but must have some of the most spectacular scenery and geology in the world; Almaty, set amid the mountains, is beautiful; and Astana has the most impressive architecture –even the apartment blocks are incredible! The World Nomad Games were so interesting that we are hoping to go back to Kyrgyzstan in two years time for the next edition! Anne Vaughan
Please drop us a line with your stories and travel tips at fromtheroad@wanderlustmagazine.com and help others find their way. Be sure to also follow us on Facebook (wanderlusttravelmagazine), Threads (@wanderlustmag), X (@wanderlustmag) and Instagram (@wanderlustmag).
Built to last (above) Some mud-brick buildings in AlUla’s Old Town date back to the 9th century
Wanderlust reserves the right to edit all submissions; images: Nigel Branscombe; Shutterstock
Games; (below) ultra-modern Astana
Adventure awaits in Batumi
With its mountains, coast and natural splendour, the seaside city of Batumi in Georgia is perfect for those looking to get active
Whether you want to spend winter in the mountains, hit the trails of the forests or soak up some of the Black Sea’s shoreline, there is so much to see and do in this part of Georgia.
Explore the coast
Beaches here range from smooth pebbles to coarse black magnetic sands, with the clear waters to the north and south of Batumi – around Kobuleti, Gonio, Kvariati and Sarpi –perfect for a splash. More secluded swimming spots can be found in the coves and caves around Tsikhisdziri, where the beach backs onto citrus groves and bamboo forests. Jet skiing, SUP and surfing are all on the agenda, while yachts and sailboats can be chartered from the yacht club. Parasail
on Batumi Beach for a bird’s eye view of the city’s imaginative architecture.
Foray in the forest
A quartet of protected areas and national parks (four of which are UNESCO-listed) right on Batumi’s doorstep offer an entrée to subtropical Ajara, around 60% of which is covered in forest. To the east, Mtirala National Park offers easy day hikes and horseback expeditions, while the more remote Kintrishi National Park leads trekkers past ancient arched bridges, wine cellars and lakes. Marshy Kobuleti is the place to encounter migratory birds, while walking the Machakhela Gun Road provides an insight into life and culture of the locals. For bikers, the 3.6km Kaviani Mountain bike trail that links the highland villages via a 13th-century fortress is a must.
Mountain magic Batumi’s mountains make an adventurous stomping ground all year round, but it’s during the winter months, when the snow falls, that the area is transformed into a true wonderland, offering thrilling experiences such as snowshoeing
Into the mountains
The Lesser Caucasus give Batumi its mountainous backdrop, with the Arsian and Meskheti ridges reaching heights of almost 3,000m above sea level. Whilst plateaus and highland villages inspire repose, adrenaline junkies can also get their fill of rafting, off road tours and rock climbing. For a real adventure, the Uchkho Gorge and Kapnistavi village has a canyoning trail that includes rappelling over 12 surging waterfalls (or opt for the shorter route to take on just six of the falls). Projects such as the 1,750-metre-long Chirukhi Mountain Zipline ensure there are always new landscapes to explore. Come winter, alpine Ajara transforms into a powdery playground, with Goderdzi Resort 100km from Batumi the base for on-piste, cross-country and cat-skiing, the perfect finale to your adventure.
#wanderlustmag
You’ve been sending us images of your latest trips and favourite adventures – tag us at #wanderlustmag on Instagram, or email them to us at fromtheroad@wanderlustmagazine.com
“We searched for hours for a leopard in Wilpattu National Park, Sri Lanka. Finally, we found one napping in a tree.” Kristin Smith
“Mosquée Bab Al Souk (White Mosque) in Chefchaouen, Morocco, was painted pale blue until 2016.” @thehistoriantraveller
“This shot was taken at the Tolmie Peak Fire Lookout, which overlooks Mount Rainier in Washington state, USA. It’s just a moderate 2.8-mile (4.5km) hike to get there, but once you arrive, you’ll discover fantastic views of the mountain.” @heathuhh_photo
“Salt harvesting in Vietnam’s Khánh Hòa province starts before dawn, when the weather is cooler.” @saradunnphotography
“Liberty Bridge in Budapest. I used to live in this city, so it’s always a delight to return with my camera.” @_eat_sleep_travel_repeat
river cruise
“I was taking close-ups of the Angkor Thom complex in Cambodia when this monkey appeared.” @photographin_uk
“A
down the Danube, through the Iron Gates gorge, saw us pass Romania’s Mraconia monastery.” Colin Douglas
What’s New
All the latest flights and stays, plus dark nights, Viennese culture, and Christmas markets to savour…
A new GEM in Egypt
After more than a decade in the making, Cairo’s Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) has yet to fully open, but it is now offering visitors a taster of what’s to come by inviting them into 12 of its galleries. Located close to the Pyramids of Giza, the highly anticipated museum will eventually showcase more than 100,000 artefacts across 500,000 sqm. While the Tutankhamun relics are yet to be seen, the newly opened galleries are now exhibiting ancient treasures including mummified bodies, pharaonic sculptures and sarcophagi (stone coffins). The official date of GEM’s full opening is still to be announced. grandegyptianmuseum.org
Down in the deep
A fleet of 30 boat sculptures can now be found submerged up to five metres deep in the Caribbean sea off the coast of Carriacou, Grenada. A World Adrift by British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor is a new underwater exhibition combining art with marine conservation. Its boat installations – captained by sculptures of local schoolchildren – are designed to resemble origami, reflecting the fragility of the ecosystem. Not only will the park appeal to snorkelling and diving enthusiasts, but the underwater exhibition will also contribute to reef restoration efforts by providing a habitat for marine species and transforming into coral nurseries. It comes after the success of the tri-island state’s first underwater sculpture park, Molinere, which opened in 2006. underwatersculpture.com
Vienna exhibitions
The Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien’s Rembrandt–Hoogstraten: Colour and Illusion (until 12 Jan 2025) exhibition creates a dialogue between two 17th-century artists of the Dutch Golden Age, exploring the relationship between the master (Rembrandt) and his revered pupil and competitor. Through comparisons of their works, visitors can see the interplay of influence and creativity, and how their rivalry drove both artists to innovate. khm.at
Admiring the paintings of Gustav Klimt is a quintessential Vienna art experience. But the upcoming Pigment & Pixel exhibition (20 Feb–7 Sep 2025) at the Galerie Belvedere offers a new perspective on the Austrian master: a close examination of his methods and use of materials, as uncovered through technological analysis. Visitors can stand before masterpieces such as The Kiss and Judith and, literally, get beneath the surface of them. belvedere.at
The first exhibition in Austria of Paul Gauguin’s work in more than 60 years takes the form of a deep-thinking retrospective at the Bank Austria Kunstforum Wien. The Unexpected exhibition (until 19 Jan 2025) charts the French painter and sculptor’s journey from post-Impressionism to Modernism across 80 works drawn from international museums and private collections. kunstforumwien.at
Rudolf Wacker is celebrated as Austria’s leading New Objectivity painter, a movement of realism that challenged the sentimentality of Expressionism. After a 50-year absence since his works were last displayed in the city, Wacker’s paintings and drawings make a return to Vienna’s Leopold Museum in Magic and Abysses of Reality (until 16 Feb 2025). leopoldmuseum.org
⊲
NewZealand’sstarattraction
Aotearoa/New Zealand’s South Island town of Kaikōura has become the 22nd location in the world – and the third in the country – to be designated a Dark Sky sanctuary by DarkSky International. The status is only awarded to locations that have shown a commitment to preserving their nocturnal environment, protecting it for its scientific, natural, educational and cultural heritage as well as public enjoyment. For example, the region’s endangered Hutton’s shearwater is the only seabird that breeds in a sub-alpine environment, but it can become disoriented by artificial light. The safeguarding of Kaikōura’s night sky will not only protect a pair of local shearwater breeding colonies, but it will hopefully attract stargazing enthusiasts to experience the town’s pristine dark nights. darksky.org
The travel shows must go on
The Adventure Travel Show is back after a hiatus of several years and will be held at London’s Business Design Centre (11–12 Jan). With a programme of more than 60 inspirational talks from the cream of the UK’s adventurers, and over 100 exhibitors to meet, you’ll find ideas, practical tips and advice aplenty at the relaunched show. Book with the code ‘Wander’ for a 10% discount. adventureshow.com
The UK’s longest-running travel show, Destinations, celebrates its 30th year with
an extra-special edition at London Olympia (30 Jan–2 Feb), and also returns to Manchester Central (16–19 Jan). Wanderlust has been involved in every single year of the show, and 2025 will be no exception. Visit our new-look Visions photography and video exhibit (to enter, see wanderlustmagazine.com), meet the Wanderlust team and join the audience at our panels. Wanderlust readers are entitled to two complimentary tickets (see page 80 for details). For more information on who and what to see, visit destinationsshow.com
Christmas markets in Europe
ThefirstChristmasmarketwasheld inDresdeninthelateMiddleAges. Theseannualgemsmayhavelong sincespreadacrosstheworld,but Germanyanditsnearneighbours arestill the festivekings.
Overlooking the famous Monkey’s Fingers rock formation, Eden (pictured) is a boutique hotel nestled in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains above the Dades Valley. With 18 rooms, a library and hammam spa, this mountain sanctuary pays homage to traditional Moroccan craftsmanship and heritage in both its design and hospitality. edenboutiquehotel.com
Tucked away in the Indonesian fishing village of Labuan Bajo, Ta’aktana is a new Luxury Collection Resort on Flores Island –better known as the gateway to Komodo National Park and its eponymous dragons! The 70-room hotel includes overwater villas and takes its design inspiration from local rice terraces and dwellings. marriott.com
Tokyo has welcomed its first ever Janu property – sister brand to Aman – in the fast-developing Azabudai Hills area. Janu Tokyo has 122 rooms and suites, many with views of the iconic Tokyo Tower. After a busy day in the city – or exploring the galleries of the neighbourhood – guests can relax in the hotel’s enormous spa facilities, complete with a heated lap pool, treatment rooms and gym. janu.com
Located on the doorstep of Sri Lanka’s impressive Pekoe Trail, boutique hotel Uga Halloowella is set to open in January 2025. The hilltop accommodation, overlooking a twinkling reservoir, can be reached either by helicopter or via a scenic drive through the historic tea trail region. It only has six suites but it looks like it’s going to be worth the journey. ugaescapes.com
Surrounded by a nature reserve, Hawar Resort by Mantis is a 102-room luxury hotel on Bahrain’s Hawar Island. Its overwater villas take the eye in particular, and guests can take part in hotel-organised activities such as safaris under the stars and snorkelling. Wildlife spotted in the area include Arabian sand gazelles and dugongs. mantiscollection.com
New flights
Kazakhstan’s futuristic cities, natural wonders and famed nomadic culture will now be easier to experience than ever following the launch of a new direct flight from the UK to Astana (pictured), via a refuel stop in Aktau. This Air Astana (airastana.com) flight between London Heathrow and the Kazakhstan capital now operates three times per week, with the journey taking eight hours and 15 minutes. Sierra Leone are also set to reap the rewards from a direct flight from London Gatwick to Freetown. Beginning in December, it will be one of new airline Air Sierra Leone’s inaugural routes, expected to operate three times per week. And lastly, next spring sees two far-flung destinations made even more accessible via Japan, with United Airlines (united.com) set to launch a direct route from Tokyo to the Pacific archipelago of Palau in May 2025 as well as a seasonal non-stop service to Mongolian capital Ulaanbaatar
The culture radar
Brazil’s leading modern and contemporary art museum MuseudeArtedeSãoPaulo (MASP; pictured) is due to open a major extension by the end of 2024. Because of the unique architecture of the building, constructing more exhibition space hasn’t been simple. As a solution, the museum has created an underground tunnel between the original building and a new 14-storey tower-block extension. Currently, only 1% of the museum’s 11,000 works can be displayed at any time, but the expansion is set to change all that. It follows hot on the heels of another major opening: Poland’s MuseumofModernArtinWarsaw, which has been an ongoing project in the Polish capital for nearly two decades. Its galleries, workshop rooms and auditorium are housed in a striking-yet-minimalist white-box building that overlooks the Vistula River. We can’t wait to explore it ourselves. masp.org.br;artmuseum.pl
Alamy; Eden
Boutique
Hotel
wanderlustmagazine.com/podcast
Experiencing
William Gray; Shutterstock
CHRISTMAS SPECIAL
Romance of the Highlands
As TV series Outlander returns to our screens, Tom Hawker heads to Scotland, where the show has swelled visitor numbers
The ‘Droughtlander’ is nearly over.The second part of season seven of Outlander finally drops this November, arriving with the news that the series is nearing its end. Season eight will be Claire and Co’s final visit to 18th century Scotland. However, fans of tartan-flavoured, time-travelling romance won’t be the only ones misty-eyed at the news.
Visit Scotland estimated that the show’s impact raised pre-pandemic tourist numbers to sites featured in the series by 67%. And it continues to provide new destinations for fans. Even after the story’s focus switched to America, production carried on shooting mostly in Scotland, using locations in the country’s middle and lower regions.
Let’s start at the magical stone circle at Craigh na Dun, which propels our heroine back in time. In reality, this was filmed at a magic-rock-free farm in the village of Kinloch Rannoch in Perthshire,which allows entry to fans so long as they don’t disturb the livestock. Set amid the Great Moor of Rannoch, this epic slab of wilderness is around two hours’ drive from Edinburgh and has magical views over the loch.
Fans can find key locations at two well-preserved towns in Fife. Owned by the NationalTrust for Scotland, the historic 18th-century burgh of Culross, on the Firth of Forth,doubles for fictional Cranesmuir in season one.Falkland, meanwhile, stands in for 1940s Inverness, with the exterior of the town’s Covenanters Hotel used for the B&B that Claire and Frank Randall arrive at in the first episode.
Also worth a visit is the 16th-century Falkland Palace (a favourite of the Stuart monarchs), whose cellars were used in season two.
Classic Scottish country piles provide plenty to chew on for fans of the show.The sprawling Hopetoun estate on the outskirts of Edinburgh has lent a number of locations to the series,with its focal point of Hopetoun House doubling as the Duke of Sandringham’s estate, Bellhurst, while its derelict 15th-century Midhope Castle will be instantly recognisable as Jamie Fraser’s ancestral home.
Elsewhere, Stirlingshire’s Doune Castle stands in for Castle Leoch, and it is worth a visit if only to gaze out over the River Teith and Ben Lomond from the battlements.West Lothian is also a hotbed of Outlander locations,with Blackness Castle doubling as FortWilliam, and Linlithgow Palace – birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots – providing the shoot for the ominousWentworth Prison.
Of course, the early seasons of the show lead up to the Jacobite defeat at the 1746 Battle of Culloden, in which 1,500 Highlanders were slaughtered.Visitors to the real Inverness battlefield site will find an excellent visitors’centre detailing the brutalities that followed.The chance to take in this history provides more than enough real-life drama to satisfy even the biggest Outlander devotee. Outlander is on Amazon Prime’s MGM+ channel from 22 November.
On the rise (clockwise from top left) Not a stone circle in sight at Rannoch Moor; you can only visit the exterior of Midhope Castle; Culross is Scotland’s most complete example of a 17th-century burgh; Claire (Caitriona Balfe) and Jamie (Sam Heughan) become embroiled in the doomed Jacobite Rising [below]
Read this!
Geography is very much in style this issue, as the experts at Stanfords pick the latest reads to map your adventures
MythsofGeography
by Paul Richardson Little Brown; £22
StanfordsBook of theMonth for October
Subtitled ‘Eight Ways We Get the World Wrong’, this iconoclastic read tears into the accepted wisdoms of mapmaking. But this isn’t simply pedantry; the sacred cows Richardson takes on, such as Europe always being the centre of world maps, act as a jumping-off point for wider debates. At other times, it’s just fascinating, as the author points out the only national park in which you can swim between continents, or dissects the argument for border walls.
OntheNarrowRoad totheDeepNorth
by Lesley Chan Downer Eland; £15
Everyone loves a quest, especially one clearly borne of a real passion for the subject. In this elegantly told
ARMCHAIR TRAVEL
homage, the author sets off in the footsteps of Japan’s most cherished poet, Matsuo Basho, whose own wanderings gave birth to Japan’s most famous travel book. Along the way, she ponders a contemporary Japan far from the tourist beat, taking in industrial towns and highland villages with the same curious spirit.
DaybreakinGaza
Edited by Mahmoud Muna & MatthewTeller Saqi Books; £15
It’s impossible to see news stories such as the bombing of Gaza and not be moved by them. Yet, at the same time, we are often blind to how these events change the day-to-day lives of those directly affected. This book of interviews with ordinary Palestinians – displaced artists, acrobats, chefs, medics – is more than a record of a people trapped in a tragic moment; it celebrates Gaza’s enduring culture and history too.
Take a journey into the Brazilian Amazon in our Wanderlust: Off the Page podcast, in which Brazil expert Alex Robinson (see p202) gives his unique insights into the region – with surprises galore. Talking of surprises, discover the secrets of Tokyo and Qatar in other new episodes. And be sure to catch up on our coverage of the Florida Keys, Ecuador and Saskatchewan.
Readers get 10% off by using the code ‘Wandering’ on the Stanfords website (www.stanfords.co.uk). Wanderlust members can get 25% off. See p278
It seems geography is rather in vogue at the moment. This quiz book riffs on the popular series of books by the journalist Tim Marshall, which reflect on the world’s geopolitics through maps. Spanning 300 questions, puzzles and word games, this mix of geography and politics will test even the most dedicated news junky.
ALongWaySouth
by Sara Stewart Bradt; £10
Itinerant traveller
Sara Stewart threads the needle between vagabond nostalgia and a snapshot of another era in this fast-paced memoir of her explorations of Latin America in the mid-1970s. Amid a backdrop of political
instability, military coups, kidnappings and smuggling, this is an ode to a more intrepid spirit of adventure – when you’d turn up at a city and have to negotiate your way past the tanks – and a time long before travel became straightforward.
HowtheWorldEats
By
Julian Baggini Granta; £25
There are many ways to see the world. Doing so through the prism of the many different approaches to growing, preparing and eating food is one of the more fascinating. In doing so, author Baggini shines a light on some remarkable cultures along the way, from the hunter-gatherer Hadza in Tanzania, whose sustainable lifestyle is under threat, to the worst excesses of Western fast-food society. And by casting a global eye on our past and present relationship with food, he also sets out an agenda for how we should be eating.
Remembering Wildlife, the ground-breaking charity photobook series, has returned with its ninth edition, this time on tigers. To date, the series has donated more than £1.15 million to carefully selected conservation projects and raised awareness on some of the world’s most beautiful but threatened species.This latest book is filled with 88 breathtaking images and includes shots of Siberian, Sumatran and Malayan tigers by some of the world’s finest photographers. Remembering Tigers (Wildlife Photographers United; £50) is available to buy now from rememberingwildlife.com. Wanderlust members have a chance to win a copy on p278.
Travel experiences for all kind of reasons
Everyone has a different idea of their perfect trip, which is why Trailfinders and G Adventures have teamed up to offer adventures of every kind, no matter your style…
Many travellers turn to G Adventures for its outstanding travel options and destinations. That’s why Trailfinders is proudly teaming up with this leading adventure travel group to offer one-of-a-kind Classic, Active and Geluxe tours. They all deliver the elevated G Adventures travel experience… but paired with Trailfinders expertise.
THE CLASSIC TRIPS
If you’re a natural explorer and you’re looking for the sweet spot between independent backpacking and organised group travel, a classic tour could be the perfect getaway for you. These trips span an impressive variety of destinations and experiences while providing plenty of flexibility should you wish to go off-script.
TRIP SPOTLIGHT
Spain & Portugal: Flamenco & Tapas
Vibrant cities, world-class cuisines and epic coastlines are all rolled into this ten-day Iberian discovery. Featuring both bus and train travel, it includes lively nights in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, history-filled strolls in Lisbon’s Belém district, plus the opportunity to discover the sprawling Moorish architecture of Seville’s UNESCOlisted Real Alcázar. The chance to hit the water or relax oceanside on the wild Algarve coast is just the cherry on the cake.
Best of South Korea
For a deep dive into South Korea’s cultural layers, this eight-day trip hits the mark. You’ll explore the scintillating city of Seoul, with its thronging markets, sizzling street food and gleaming Gangnam District (famed among K-pop fans for its statue-lined K-Star ROAD).
From there, leave the skyscrapers behind to visit tranquil Buddhist temples and tomb complexes in Gyeongju; stroll a village of traditional Korean homes (hanok) dating back to the era of the Joseon dynasty; and visit Korea’s second city, Busan, known for its giant fish market and beaches. You’ll gain plenty of unique perspectives along the way.
Trailfinder tip
“The many flight options to South Korea from the UK and Ireland, coupled with its high-speed rail network, make the country’s mustsees highly accessible, while the distinctive seasons and affordable stays, restaurants and experiences make it an ideal alternative to other Asian destinations.”
Ed Bailey, Head of Marketing
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple in Busan, South Korea
THE ACTIVE ADVENTURES
If you have a thirst for active adventure travel, you’ll be in your element with these high-energy tours. Raise your adrenaline levels while gaining a deep connection with your destination – not to mention a sense of achievement – by hiking, biking and multisporting your way through its landscapes.
TRIP SPOTLIGHT
Costa Rica North and South: National Parks, Wildlife & Hot Springs
Whether it’s kayaking through Tortuguero National Park or traversing the hanging bridges of La Fortuna’s rainforest, this 15-day tour spans Costa Rica’s most extraordinary landscapes, reaching as far as the Osa Peninsula – its final frontier. Zip-lining, waterfall rappelling, swimming and hiking all feature alongside the rejuvenating thermal springs of the Tabacón Resort. Enthralling wildlife sightings are a major draw on this trip: you could spot toucans, macaws and perhaps even the elusive jaguar en route.
Vietnam Hike, Bike & Kayak
The towering limestone karsts of Halong Bay are among the most photographed natural wonders on Earth. You can see why on this trip, as you discover its mesmerising cave systems aboard a sailing junk as part of this ten-day tour. You’ll pair this with hikes across the Mai Chau region’s forested mountains and treks to traditional homes in off-grid valleys. In between, you’ll travel south to north, starting among the war tunnels of Ho Chi Minh City, making your way north for cycling tours of imperial Hue and picturesque Hoi An, before strolling the busy streets of Hanoi.
Trailfinder tip
“Being on an active adventure criss-crossing the country does not mean that you have to miss out on Vietnam’s culinary delights. Try fried crab rolls in the salty north, spiced, fried wontons in Hoi An and enjoy coconut candy or delightfully sticky baked honeycomb cake in Ho Chi Minh City.”
Rebecca Buttall, Marketing & Events Manager
THE PREMIUM GELUXE COLLECTION
The Premium Geluxe Collection offers 45 of the grandest adventures on Earth, spread across 26 destinations. As the name suggests, they have been curated with a discerning, more active traveller in mind. And they combine the perfect balance of comfort and adventure without compromising on authentic experiences or deep cultural immersion.
TRIP SPOTLIGHT
Zimbabwe & Botswana: Chobe, Hwange &
Lake Karika
This ten-day tour is a greatest hits of southern Africa’s wildest adventures. It features lakeside lodges on the Zimbabwean side of Lake Kariba’s hippo-filled waters and a unique journey on the Elephant Express railway, as well as overnight bush stays in Botswana’s Chobe National Park. You’ll not only spot game on safari drives, but get to leave the 4WD behind on walking safaris. And who can fail to be awestruck by Victoria Falls, which sees up to 500 million litres of water per minute thunder into the gorge below?
Trailfinder tip
“Botswana proudly boasts the largest inland delta in the world, the Okavango. You can enjoy a safari from two perspectives here: land or water, making it a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It’s also one of the world’s safest and most sustainable tourism destinations, making it an ideal choice for families, couples and solo travellers.”
Louise Hopper, Product Manager
ABOUT THE EXPERTS
Whatever your style of travel, Trailfinders will find the ideal G Adventures trip for you. This highly reputable company has been tailormaking travel itineraries for more than 50 years, and its experienced travel consultants are on hand seven days a week to answer any questions you might have about your next G Adventures trip. Together with prices spanning both budget and luxury tours, G Adventures offers is an incredible variety of ways to see the world.
Scan for a chance to win the trip of a lifetime
UNESCO-protected Lan Ha Bay in Vietnam
The Chobe River straddling Namibia and Botswana
The Real Alcázar in Seville La Fortuna in Costa Rica
SOUTHEAST ASIA YOUR WAY
Take an authentic route through Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand and Indonesia with the experts at Audley Travel
The sounds of the jungle filtering through the canvas at night.
The glint of a gilded stupa in the dying sun. The chance to explore an ancient temple with your own private expert in tow. No matter how many times you visit South-East Asia, there are always new ways to reveal more of its local life and culture.
Audley’s specialists will shape a trip that matches your passions, giving you the freedom to experience what you want, how you want.
In Cambodia, you could join a private temple safari from Siem Reap to Angkor Wat. With your own expert to guide you, you’ll explore the heart of the world’s largest religious monument at your own pace. Or, combine two of Vietnam’s star attractions by taking a seaplane tour from Hanoi to the karst towers of Ha Long Bay. Qatar Airways can fly you from the UK to Hanoi in around 11.5 hours. From there, you’ll soar by private seaplane above the Gulf of Tonkin and the bay’s knuckled limestone karsts. Extending this experience, you can cruise in luxury around Ha Long on
one of the traditional Vietnamese sailing junks Ylang, Violet or Ginger, adding a dash of nautical opulence to your trip.
Some of Thailand’s best experiences are for food lovers, such as an intimate sunset cruise through Bangkok along the Chao Phraya river followed by dinner at the secluded riverside restaurant at Chakrabongse Villas. A former royal residence, the dining room serves palaceinspired Thai dishes handed down the generations and offers long-stretching sunset views across the River of Kings to the glistening Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn).
You’ll spend your nights in stays handpicked by your Audley specialist to fit your preferences. Bali’s Nirjhara offers a serene retreat just a five-minute drive from the coast, boasting enviable views from its treetop canopy suites.
Or, for something more immersive, ` Shinta Mani Wild puts you in the heart of the Cambodian jungle, deep in a private nature sanctuary. Its 15 safari-style tents and Khmer spa are also flanked by a trio of national parks — Kirirom, Bokor and Cardomom.
Get there in style with
Voted the ‘World’s Best Airline’ for the eighth time at 2024’s Skytrax World Airline Awards, Qatar Airways and its premium cabins complement Audley’s itineraries with multiple routes to South-East Asia, combining comfort and convenience.
AUDLEY: TRAVEL SHAPED AROUND YOU
For more than 25 years, Audley’s specialists have been creating meaningful trips around what you want to see and how you want to feel. Your specialist will take time to get to know you so they can then hand-pick every aspect of your itinerary, drawing from their first-hand knowledge and passion for travel.
Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) sits on the bank of the Chao Phraya river
The Nirjhara in Bali offers a luxurious stay surrounded by nature
Cruising at sunset around Ha Long Bay Alamy; Audley Travel; Shutterstock; Qatar Airways
Know your jabs
Don’t leave your travel vaccinations to the last minute! Make a New Year’s resolution to get your jabs in order, writes Dr Marion Sloan
Whether on a jungle escape or a rural retreat, vaccines can make or break a trip. But knowing which jabs to get, and when, can be tricky.
Firstly, timing is crucial.Vaccinations can take time to become fully effective. For example, Hepatitis B –spread through blood or bodily fluids – requires three doses over six months. Accelerated courses exist, but the full version is the gold standard for immunisation. Others, such as typhoid, can be given closer to departure, but they still need at least two weeks to kick in.
One vaccination many overlook is yellow fever.Yet proof of immunisation is required for entry into many countries in South America and Africa, and the list is constantly evolving (see NHS Fit forTravel). South Africa even requires a yellow fever certificate for extended transit through the airport.
It’s worth noting that fewer travel vaccinations are being done in practice, mainly due to funds and staff time being prioritised elsewhere. In the UK, polio, tetanus, diphtheria, hepatitis A and typhoid are available for free on the NHS; others are
paid for, which can force travellers to weigh up the risks. Costs can vary (about £25–£85 per jab), so it’s smart to budget ahead to be fully covered.
Some jabs require infrequent boosters. Rabies, for example, is often perceived as a disease of the past,yet it is still highly prevalent in parts of Asia andAfrica – even the USA still records around ten cases per year. Rabies requires a booster every one to two years, and while post-bite prophylaxis may save the life of anyone unvaccinated, if not caught by the time symptoms appear, it is almost always fatal.
Then there are the less well known vaccinations, such as for Japanese encephalitis, a mosquito-borne virus found in Asia and the Pacific region that can cause brain inflammation and has a high fatality rate.The risk is low for short-term travel, but far greater if staying longer in affected areas.
Some destinations are hot spots. Meningitis is common in sub-Saharan Africa, where crowded places such as buses or markets increase risk.Vaccination is recommended for travellers to high-risk areas here (2–3 weeks before travel),especially during the dry season.As ever, it pays to plan ahead.
VACCINATIONS BY NUMBERS*
15% of those infected with yellow fever develop a severe form of the disease, with up to half of these cases resulting in death.
100,000 cases (approx) of Japanese encephalitis are diagnosed annually – 20 to 30% are fatal.
3 IN 5
The chances of contracting rabies after contact with a rabid animal can be as high as 60%.
5 TIPSTOKEEP ONTOPOF YOURJABS
Getting the needle (top to bottom) It’s important to keep track of all of your vaccinations, as some may require booster shots months or even years later, and travellers can often be guilty of thinking they are fully immunised when they aren’t
1 While yellow fever jabs afford lifelong immunity, others may require boosters if visiting high-risk areas. Rabies (1–2 years), tick-borne encephalitis and typhoid (both every 3 years ) require top-up jabs if exposed for lengthy periods, while diphtheria, polio, cholera and tetanus may also need to be boosted, so it’s vital to keep track of your injection dates.
2Post-jab, you may get a sore arm, or redness or slight swelling around the injection site. This should clear up, but to ease discomfort, try applying a cold compress or taking a standard painkiller like paracetamol.
3 It’s not unusual to feel off colour after typhoid and hepatitis jabs; these can leave you feeling tired or give you a mild fever. Rest and hydration will help with recovery.
4 Yellow fever and Japanese encephalitis vaccinations can cause mild flu-like symptoms. While this might sound concerning, these reactions usually pass quickly.
5 If you experience severe swelling, a high fever or trouble breathing post-jab, seek immediate medical help. Dr Marion Sloan is a GP at the Sloan Medical Centre in Sheffield
Nature… and nurture
How do you know whether your wildlife trip is ethical or not? Karen Edwards explores how to enjoy animal encounters in a way that doesn’t negatively impact the wild world
The sound was like rumbling thunder, except that it wasn’t coming from the sky.Thousands of hooves were gathering pace against the dusty earth, kicking up a haze in their wake. It was the end of August and the herds of wildebeest, zebra and antelope were on the move in search of food, traversing between the plains of the Masai Mara in Kenya and the Serengeti inTanzania. This twice-annual crossing, known as the ‘Great Migration’, is thought to be the largest herd movement in the
world. And here we were, my safari guide, my husband and I, waiting patiently on the bank of the Mara River, hoping to catch a glimpse of it. What struck me as oddwas that there wasn’t another safari truck in sight. We were in the Masai Mara National Reserve – a popular safari destination – and yet there wasn’t another human to be seen. My Maasai guide,who had studied the behaviour of wildebeests, had spotted signs that suggested they were ready to migrate. Under his instruction, we arrived before daybreak and parked on a high verge
overlooking the river. Three hours later, the sound of hooves neared and each of us felt our excitement rising.
According to theWorld Travel and Tourism Council, nature-based tourism generates US$600 billion per year globally. Animals are big business. As a result, there is a common expectation that nature is always available. So, it was no surprise when the inevitable hordes of safari trucks appeared alongside us after a while, as other, lesser-experienced guides realised the river crossing was taking place.They, literally, couldn’t afford to miss it. ⊲
Great entertainers (above) Watching millions of wildebeests, zebras and gazelles embark on a treacherous journey across the plains of East Africa will always appeal to travellers, so finding ways to ensure tourism doesn’t negatively impact this natural spectacle is vital
Long after the migration was underway, vehicle after vehicle came skidding onto the riverbank – almost racing each other for a prime position next to the crossing. We watched in horror as some of the trucks cut across the path of the wildebeest, forcing the already-nervous herd to retreat onto the grasslands.
Case study:The ethical safari The Safari Series, Kenya Set away from Kenya’s crowded wildlife hotspots, this family-run safari camp in the northern Lolldaiga Hills is centred around Maasailed game drives, guided hikes and photography experiences. Profits go towards local conservation projects and invasive species control – including the removal of the ubiquitous prickly pear bush from local farmlands and wildlife areas. The in-house community uplift scheme has led to 100% of its staff being hired from within 16km of the camp, ensuring the surrounding villages not only benefit from safari tourism but see firsthand the value of protecting wildlife and the ecosystem. safari-series.com
Unfortunately, this isn’t an uncommon occurrence in popular safari destinations – particularly when sightings of megafauna are advertised by operators as if guaranteed.This can leave guides under great pressure to attend every sighting or get disturbingly close to the animals to achieve that Instagram-worthy snap. It also typically leads to the crowding,and even chasing,of animals in popular wildlife areas. In turn, this can mean changes to animal behaviour or the degradation of habitats; it can even force wildlife to abandon the safety of their territory out of fear.
Thanks to our experienced guide, who used the knowledge of his homeland to deliver a memorable experience while making sure our presence didn’t ever disturb or alter the pathway of the wildlife, I witnessed countless herds cross the Mara River from a safe distance.The same can’t be said for those who raced in without any consideration for the animals.
In fact, the irresponsible behaviour of those operators brought the Great Migration to a halt that morning. It is for this reason that booking with a trained guide from a responsible and reputable wildlife operator is crucial, wherever you are in the world. It’s also why travellers should never put pressure on guides to deliver a sighting, or ask them to move nearer to the wildlife than is advisable – no matter how much we might want that close-up photograph.
Making room (below) In the Masai Mara National Reserve, there is only supposed to be a maximum of five vehicles at a sighting at any one time. Not only is this often ignored by under-pressure guides, but enforcing this rule across a 1,500 sq km park is no simple task
Casestudy:Theethicaloperator Whale Watch Kaikōura, New Zealand
This long-running boat-tour operator has been taking visitors to see the resident sperm whales off the east coast of the South Island since 1987. The company, owned and run by the Indigenous Ngāti Kuri people of Kaikōura, seek out whales using hydrophone technology, while its boat skippers are trained to approach these creatures within safe distances. Often, fur seals and dusky dolphins can be spotted too. Importantly, tours follow the New Zealand Department of Conservation’s regulations for the protection of marine mammals, ensuring the conservation of marine life is a priority for everyone involved. whalewatch.co.nz
The best place to see wildlife is… in the wild. Avoid attractions where animals are used for entertainment purposes, as well as those that involve interactions with humans. Feeding, riding or bathing activities might seem harmless, but animals may have been drugged or trained – often through pain or starvation – to remain calm in those instances.
2 Booktoursledbyexperts
Tours led by those who have studied a specific animal or ecosystem – biologists, naturalists, guides from local communities – are packed with insights about habitats, behaviour and physiology. They will also know how best to minimise any disturbance.
3 Optforasmallgroupexperience
Avoid operators that pack people into trucks or boats. Crowds are stressful to wildlife, and small group tours often know how best to avoid crowding.
4 Checktheoperator’spolicy
Keeping a safe distance and limiting the time you spend around an animal are two ways that ethical companies minimise stress on wildlife. Often, they’ll share their rules or conservation policy online.
5 Asktherightquestions
If you can’t find details online about how tours are conducted, ask the operator how they ensure that wildlife won’t be disturbed, and what measures they put in place to safeguard the animals.
Alamy
ADVENT IN GRAZ
Find out why this Austrian city is perfect for a festive escape…
Little-known Graz may fly under the radar, but this medieval city is packed with history, culture and festive cheer. Here’s how to experience the best of winter in this Styrian beauty, deep in southern Austria...
Christmas markets
Does anything scream winter more than a European Christmas market?
With 14 to choose from – all within easy walking distance – Graz is a wonderful destination for getting into the spirit of the season.
With the arrival of the city’s Advent markets (22 Nov–24 Dec), most visitors make a beeline for the Christkindlmarkt on the main square. Here you can buy traditional crafts, sample regional delicacies and soak up the fairy-tale atmosphere.
For 2024, however, the new Christmas village on Karmeliterplatz will likely be a big draw, thanks to its excellent food and rather plum location, nestled at the foot of Schlossberg (Graz’s tallest hill). For more creative types, try Wonderlend on Mariahilferplatz, which is known for its contemporary lighting and style, or
pay a contemplative visit to the STIKH market at Lesliehof, which thrums with local arts, crafts and design.
Best of all, these markets are focused on sustainability, championing local producers and supporting charity projects, so your purchases also help those in need.
The Ice Nativity Scene
Graz’s unique Landhaushof nativity scene is hugely impressive. The characters are all carved out of some 50 tonnes of ice in a breathtaking display. Its creators not only conjure an epic work of art, but also a symbol of transience, as the ice slowly melts.
Christmas cheer (clockwise from top left) The Christkindlmarkt is nestled within centuries-old Baroque town houses; ice skate at Grazer Winter World; head to the City Hall to catch the giant advent calendar projected onto its exterior; don’t miss the ice-carved nativity scene
The Advent Tram
For a more romantic feel, the nostalgia-fuelled Advent Tram takes visitors on a mesmerising ride through Graz. With an abundance of festive lights and decorations illuminating the track and the cosy carriages, it’s one of the most charismatic ways to soak up the Old Town.
The Christmas Carol Office
At Graz’s Christmas Carol Office, you’ll not only hear a wide selection of classic carols sung by members of the community, but those same people will also write personalised lyrics to suit you! And we all know that the best way to spread Christmas cheer is by singing loud for all to hear...
And so much more…
Come Christmas, Graz transforms, and there’s so much more to pack into a weekend break. Head to the City Hall to see a giant advent calendar projected onto its historic walls, and to sip mulled wine and hot chocolate in Schmiedgasse’s Advent Lounge. And why not stick around for New Year’s? With water, lights, music and lasers – all infront of the City Hall – what better way is there to see in 2025?
ALBERTA THROUGH THE SEASONS
There’s always something happening in this wild Canadian province
The traffic lights are green, but the taxi slows anyway. Indifferent to the Highway Code, a muscular bull elk stands in the road, his head held proud beneath his six-pronged antlers. He glares at us – an unspoken ‘stay back’ – then continues on his way, a pair of females trotting in his wake.
“It’s rutting season,” explains Colin, my driver. “You see elk everywhere at this time of year. It’s one of the reasons I love the fall – there’s so much wildlife about. This morning, I even saw a mama bear and two cubs.”
Animal encounters are one of many reasons to visit Alberta in autumn. As we continue our journey through Jasper National Park, the roadside aspens glint golden in the crisp sunshine and an early snowfall cloaks the Rocky Mountain peaks. The roads are quiet outside of the summer peak, and there’s no queue in sight when we arrive at the Jasper Skytram.
In just over seven minutes, Canada’s longest aerial tramway ferries me up to 2,263m, from where I crunch up through the fresh snow to the peak of Whistlers Mountain. There’s only one other person here, and we stand in companionable silence, basking in the 360-degree mountain views and the unspoken pleasure of having this endless scenery to ourselves.
I loved autumn in Alberta, but Canada’s fourth-largest province is unmissable at any time of year. Written by: Bella Falk
Spring
Spring is similarly uncrowded and offers pleasant temperatures, ideal for outdoor activities. In May and June, the Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Lake Louise is closed to vehicles, creating a 17km cycling route packed with heart-racing downhills and epic mountain views.
Walk on the wild side
(this page top to bottom) Pyramid Lake was formed by a retreating glacier; experience the elk rutting season in autumn
Prefer to travel on two feet instead of two wheels? Alberta has hundreds of trails to explore, from self-guided hikes in the national parks to medicine walks led by Mahikan Trails’ Indigenous knowledge keepers, who bring the landscape to life with tales of how their ancestors survived in this challenging environment.
The spring bloom also brings out the wildlife. Look out for black bears foraging for berries, bighorn sheep scrambling up hillsides and moose wading through rivers. At the end of April, Edmonton hosts the Dreamspeakers International Indigenous Film Festival, where you can watch more than 40 works by Indigenous filmmakers from all around the world.
Summer
Alberta warms up in summer, and the long days and blue skies allow for endless open-air adventures. Hit the road on the Cowboy Trail, a scenic drive along Highway 22, where ranches, wildflower meadows and craggy peaks create a cinematic Western landscape.
Unearth much older history at Drumheller in the Canadian Badlands. The ‘Dinosaur Capital of the World’ boasts distinctive rock formations and prehistoric beasts. Peer into the 70-million-year-old fossil beds or visit the Royal Tyrrell Museum to see the remains of a T-rex or triceratops.
If you’re craving natural beauty, escape to the tranquil Waterton Lakes National Park. Here, where Alberta’s peaks meet Montana’s prairies, you’ll find sparkling lakes and wildflower meadows. It’s the perfect setting for hiking, kayaking or just disconnecting from modern life.
Summer is also when the cities come alive with celebrations. Don’t miss the Calgary Stampede, a ten-day
Outside adventure (this page clockwise from top left) Spot grizzly bears in early autumn; in spring, hit the 17km cycling route between Banff and Lake Louise; The Royal Tyrrell Museum is the only museum in Canada dedicated to the study of ancient life; Waterton Lakes National Park covers an area of 505 sq km; Lake Louise is perfect for a paddle
rodeo extravaganza, or the Edmonton Fringe Festival, North America’s largest theatre festival with 216 productions across 38 venues.
Autumn
As summer fades, Alberta ignites with autumn colour. Hike the trails with your camera and capture landscapes gilded by the changing larch trees. It’s prime time for wildlife viewing too, with bears fattening up for winter, elk competing for mates and golden eagles beginning their migration. With the nights drawing in but temperatures still mild, it’s also ideal conditions for stargazing. Jasper National Park is the world’s secondlargest Dark Sky Preserve, and in October it hosts the Jasper Dark Sky Festival, which marks its 15th anniversary in 2025. Take a late-night stargazing trip to the top of the Jasper Skytram, or join an expert talk at the Jasper Planetarium to discover just what lies in the heavens.
All of these adventures are bound to give you an appetite. But don’t worry. Alberta’s chefs have got you covered. Join an Alberta Food Tour of Calgary Farmers’ Market to discover local specialties such as Alberta beef and Saskatoon berries, or download the operator’s app for a self-guided foodie road trip taken at your own pace.
Winter
Winter transforms Alberta into a playground for the adventurous. Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise offer a host of activities: carve fresh tracks on cross-country skis, glide through snowfields on a fat bike and skate across frozen lakes. You can ride up the Banff Gondola for dazzling white panoramas, or take a guided hike through winter wonder-landscapes. The ice brings with it some unique visitor opportunities. At Abraham Lake, gas bubbles freeze into mesmerising patterns; waterfalls across the area transform into ice cascades; and the Banff Snowdays Festival showcases ice sculptures brought to life by world-class carvers. At Métis Crossing, near Edmonton, you can join the Métis people to discover their winter traditions. Buy handmade gifts at the Holiday Market or learn how to sew your own moccasins to keep your feet toasty. Meanwhile, you can feel Calgary’s festive spirit at markets, light displays and even on the city’s streets. There’s never a bad time to visit Alberta.
Indigenous encounters
We pick the trips offering an insight into the world’s Indigenous communities, exploring practices and cultures that have been millennia is the making
TOUR THE USA’S INDIGENOUS SOUTHWEST
The USA’s Southwest is home to some of the country’s largest and oldestTribes, which are increasingly opening up to visitors through museums, workshops, trails and tours. Journeyscape’s Native America Country trip is heavy on all of the above, offering a self-drive adventure throughTribal lands, meeting Indigenous guides along the way. This gives you the chance to hear stories and witness ancient customs and traditions, as well as experience the region’s arresting landscapes.
Stops include the Zuni (A:shiw) Reservation, where a local guide can take you around its museum, artist’s workshops and remnants of the ancient town of Hawikku – the first place of European contact in this region. Other highlights include driving the ApacheTrail, a visit to Window Rock (capital of the Navajo Nation) and a tour of Canyon de Chelly with an Indigenous guide, as you skip between Arizona, Utah and New Mexico. Journeyscape (journeyscape.com). Flexible dates; 14 nights from £3,640pp, excluding international flights.
CELEBRATE WITH CHAD’S WODAABE
TheWodaabe people of Chad form part of the largest group of semi-nomadic people in Africa, though they reliably gather every year in one place for the colourful Gerewol Festival.This is a whirlwind of feasting, racing and dancing, though the main aim for participants is more single-minded: to find themselves a partner. During the weeklong celebration, the men don complex make-up and jewellery to catch the eye during the courtship ritual, when the women will choose their future partners. Native Eye has a long-standing connection with the local community here, and its The Gerewol Festival small group tour offers rare insight into the culture of this remote part of Chad. Guests will camp close to theWodaabe for several days and witness celebrations, rituals and ceremonies that few outsiders ever get to see. Native Eye (nativeeyetravel.com). 11 Oct 2025; 7 nights from £2,999pp, excluding international flights.
COMMUNE WITH SPIRIT BEARS IN CANADA
At the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest in British Columbia, Canada, is the traditional territory of the Kitasoo Xai’xais, for whom the area’s native spirit bear is a sacred creature.This white-furred animal is one of the world’s rarest bear species, with an estimated 50 to 150 individuals left in the wild.Wildlife Trails’s Spirit Bear Lodge, Wildlife and Indigenous Culture tour sees you set out to glimpse one in the wild, having made your base at the Indigenous-owned Spirit Bear Lodge. Just as important, however, is what you will learn about this First Nation culture along the way.This small-group tour includes rainforest treks and boat safaris, with access to culturally significant historical sites within the beautiful Kitasoo Xai’xais territory. Wildlife Trails (wildlifetrails.co.uk). Aug–mid-Oct 2025; 6 nights from £5,750pp, excluding international flights.
VISIT THE LAND OF THE SÁMI IN SWEDEN
Exodus’ Arctic Circle Aurora Adventure group tour takes travellers 200km north of the Arctic Circle, to a Swedish village of just seven people, for a unique encounter. Making your base with a local family, guests will join the Sámi community, the semi-nomadic Indigenous reindeer herders of Sápmi (formerly Lapland), learning about their culture from a Sámi guide. Spend a morning with a local family and try activities such as skiing in the forest, dogsledding and snowshoeing, then travel by reindeer sled to a kåta (traditional hut) to learn about the challenges that the Sámi face today, including deforestation, the impact of mining, and rights to land.There’s also a two-day forest expedition, with a night spent beneath the swirling northern lights (if you’re lucky) in a log cabin. Exodus (exodus.co.uk). 28 Dec 2024 and Jan–Mar 2025; 7 nights from £2,899pp, excluding international flights.
EXPLORE NAGA CULTURE IN INDIA
The Hornbill Festival in the state of Nagaland in north-east India is celebrated over the first ten days of December each year, bringing together 16 distinct Naga peoples, including the Konyak tribe – once known as the headhunters of the region. CorinthianTravel’s Nagaland andThe Hornbill Festival private tour begins in Kolkata before making its way into this remote state.There are two full days at the festival, giving an insight into Naga culture, traditional rituals, art forms and how animism shapes local life.You will hear log drums and war cries, watch performances such as the high-energy Konyak bamboo dance, and spend time with Angami Elders.There’s even a chilli-eating contest in which to test your mettle – if you dare. CorinthianTravel (corinthiantravel.co.uk).Trips start between 29 Nov and 3 Dec 2025; 7 nights from £2,945pp, excluding international flights.
WALK WITH THAILAND’S MAHOUTS
The Karen community of NorthernThailand live in remote villages across the hilly forests that border Myanmar and Laos. Elephants have always played a role here, mainly used for transportation and logging. Then,when logging was banned,they became a part of local tourism, often suffering as a result.Those rescued by the Mahouts Elephant Foundation, which runs ethical experiences in partnership with the Karen community, are the focus of ExperienceTravel Group’s tailormade Elephant Encounters inThailand trip,which includes three nights in a Karen village, staying and eating with a host family. In between, guests can walk in the forest with a mahout guide to see the rescued elephants in their natural habitat – though no interaction is allowed. Profits go straight back into the community. Experience Travel Group (experiencetravelgroup.com).Flexible dates;15 nights from £4,950pp, including international flights.
LEARN FROM THE MAASAI OF KENYA
Many visits to Kenya’s Masai Mara focus on its wildlife and nothing else. It’s understandable given the natural spectacles on offer here.Yet the centrepiece of G Adventures’ Kenya:Cultural Connections,Mount Kenya & Maasai Mara small group trip is a stay at II Ngwesi, far from the rest of the safari crowds, in a Maasai-owned and -operated lodge. Bush walks, lessons on local practices and crafting with the people of the village let you spend time with the Maasai, learning about what it takes to thrive on the plains. It also ensure that everything you spend here is funnelled straight back into the local community. Plus,you will still have time for visits to Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary, hikes around Mount Kenya and those all-important safaris. GAdventures (gadventures.com). Selected dates in Feb & Apr–Dec 2025; 10 days from £5,099pp, excluding international flights.
MEET THE REINDEER HERDERS OF MONGOLIA
TheTsaatan people of Mongolia are reindeer herders who still live a nomadic lifestyle in the Taiga mountains.Their traditions and ways go back centuries, andYellow Wood Adventures’ Tsaatan Tribe:The Reindeer Herders of Mongolia small group tour lets you connect with this community, experience their culture and see Mongolia’s rugged beauty all at the same time.Guests will travel by horseback to reach the community, camping along the way and staying in teepee tents beside theTsaatan families for a couple of nights.The trip offers the chance to hear fireside stories and learn about ancient traditions, customs and shamanic rituals, as well as see what it means to live alongside the herd.The trip also visits Lake Khovsgol, Asia’s second-largest freshwater lake, and the Darkhad valley, home to the Darkhad community. YellowWood Adventures (yellowwoodadventures.com). 2 Sep 2025; 8 nights from £2,499pp, excluding international flights.
STAY IN A LONGHOUSE IN BORNEO
AudleyTravel’s tailor-made Discovering the Indigenous Cultures of Sarawak trip sees travellers head to Malaysian Borneo, where they will travel by canoe to a traditional longhouse – the stilted communal dwellings of the Iban people of Sarawak. As well as sampling homemade rice wine and spending the night alongside the families that live there, you can join a walk through the forest with an Iban guide to learn about medicinal plants, watch a blowpipe demonstration and eat a fire-cooked meal on the banks of the Lemanak. Near Kuching, you will also visit the Bidayuh community in the kampong (village) of Nyegol to learn more about their traditional way of life and the pepper plantations that support the Iban and Bidayuh farmers of Sarawak. AudleyTravel (audleytravel.com).Flexible dates;15 days from £3,440pp, including international flights.
Alamy; Diane Smillie/Yellow Wood; G Adventures; Mahouts Elephant Foundation
DISCOVER GUYANA:
where urban allure meets natural wonders
From Georgetown’s historic streets to the lush foliage and teeming wildlife of the Amazon rainforest, Guyana is the ultimate adventure
Times are changing for Guyana’s newly oil-fuelled economy. Yet this tiny Englishspeaking enclave in Latin America has long measured its riches in a different way: via the natural bounty of its Amazon rainforest, home to tropical wildlife and Indigenous groups. Through exciting treks, visits to fearsome waterfalls and immersion within Amerindian eco-lodges, tourism here contributes to the conservation of the Guyanese wilderness by financing the communities who protect it.
Wander Georgetown’s historic streets
While capital Georgetown modernises, its languid pace –encompassing a multi-ethnic blend of Indian, African and Indigenous
heritage – makes this an intriguing place to explore on foot. Get your bearings at Stabroek Market (designed in the 1880s), an energetic introduction to the city. Beneath its prominent Victorian-style clocktower, the hustle and bustle of its spice, vegetable and seafood sellers is always invigorating. It’s also a good place to source local handicrafts from all over Guyana, or to try delicacies such as roti and fresh coconut water.
The Gothic-style St George’s Cathedral on North Road invariably evokes awe. This huge place of worship is constructed entirely from wood. Dating from the late-19th century, it soars to an impressive 44m high, and on hot days it offers plenty of cool shade and a fascinating spot to escape the heat of the streets.
Chasing waterfalls (top) Kaieteur Falls is the largest single-drop waterfall in the world, plunging off a deep jungle plateau
Take a stroll via the grid-patterned streets to Promenade Gardens, not far from Stabroek. It’s full of flourishing plants and trees, but it is also a poignant site that marks the execution in 1823 of a group of enslaved people who took part in a failed uprising.
Memorabilia from the colonial era is hosted in the National Museum, which still houses collections that have been displayed here since its opening in 1868. The most surprising exhibit is a model of a 6m-high giant sloth, recreated from fossilised bones, which is truly a sight to behold.
Embark on unique adventures in nature
Forests blanket 87% of Guyana’s, landmass, making it one of the world’s most densely forested nations.
An important green lung of South America, it’s home to 1,800 animal species, ranging from magnificent giant river otters to prowling jaguars, as well as some 8,000 plant types.
The most iconic trip here is a truly cinematic adventure. At 226m high, Kaieteur Falls in Essequibo region is the largest single-drop waterfall on Earth. It tumbles off a jungle plateau in the Amazon, which is best accessed by an exhilarating light aircraft flight. Most visits are day trips, but it’s possible to overnight on the plateau, allowing more time to seek out the gaudily orange cock-of-the-rock bird and the endemic golden rocket frog.
Another place to absorb the Amazon’s stellar biodiversity is the Iwokrama rainforest. Visitors can learn about the Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development’s important work here on sustainable forestry and the effects of climate change, as well as explore trails across the protected reserve.
Join specialist guides to see some of the 500 bird and 130 mammal species found in Iwokrama. Nothing is guaranteed, but giant anteaters and red howler monkeys are never far away. The canopy walkway is ideal for those wanting to explore further, while a riverside lodge offers a stepping stone to head into the North Rupununi wetlands and its myriad lakes.
Experience a memorable rainforest stay
The exclusivity of staying within the Amazon is itself a luxury. And if proven sustainable, eco-lodges can help to preserve both Guyana’s wildlife and enable Indigenous communities to maintain their traditional lifestyles.
Karanambu Lodge, the former home of the late conservationist Diane McTurk, offers beautiful stays in thatched cottages. The income from guests here helps to fund
Jungle jaunts (this page; clockwise from top left) Spot an abundance of wildlife, including jaguars; Rewa Eco-Lodge in Central Guyana benefits the community that runs it; you can see anteaters in North Rupununi; St George’s Cathedral in Georgetown evokes awe; observe giant river otters; Stabroek Market Square offers an energetic introduction to Georgetown; seek out colossal harpy eagles in the biodiverse foliage
conservation of the giant river otter –a lifelong passion for McTurk.
Elsewhere, Rewa and Surama eco-lodges benefit the Amerindian communities that run them. Rewa lies deep in Central Guyana and requires a riverboat to reach. The money from stays goes to the Waiwai community, and it offers employment to youngsters who might otherwise abandon this forest lifestyle and move away. Guides take guests into the forest and onto the rivers for adventures, including seeking out colossal harpy eagles. Surama eco-lodge, meanwhile, offers Amazon adventures with the Macushi people. Another attraction is the chance to learn about and try Guyana’s cuisine, which fuses Amerindian and Indian elements with staples such as cassava. Favourites include a slow-cooked stew called ‘pepperpot’ and curry with roti.
For hands-on culinary adventures, one of the more interesting excursions is with the larger-than-life Eon John, ‘the singing chef’, in Georgetown. His tours take the culinarily curious to the market to shop for ingredients before holding a cookery class in the backyard of his residence, an area known as the ‘Secret Garden’. Here he prepares a tasting meal focused on local ingredients.
Edo dining in modern Tokyo
The Edo period saw the building blocks of modern Japanese cuisine take shape. Even to this day, you can still find its influence across Tokyo and beyond, writes Nancy Singleton Hachisu
Japan’s Edo period (1603–1868) is defined by the shogunal decree of national isolation that began in 1633 with the first of a series of edicts; the country only began to reopen in 1853, 220 years later. It was during this era that the Japanese honed their culinary skills to the point of creating traditional cooking and eating practices unique to them. Even now, these remain basically unchanged, and the majority of traditional Japanese dishes eaten today date back to those years of seclusion.
The term Edo period derives from the city of Edo (now Tokyo), where the shogunate’s government was based. As towns and cities began to thrive during isolation, merchants acquired wealth and status.Together with the cities’ artisan labourers, they wielded the largest influence on the rise of restaurants and snack shops in Edo, Kyoto and Osaka. It was in these cities that many foodways developed and then slowly spread across Japan.
In 1657, two-thirds of the city of Edo was destroyed by fire.The large influx of workers who came to rebuild it gave rise to a boom in casual eateries. Snack shops, in the form of stalls or mobile vendors catering to the common people, centred on one type of cuisine: usually a light, inexpensive meal of soba noodles, tempura, sushi or eel.These dishes still exist inTokyo today, but you’ll find they have become more refined and, in most cases, are no longer inexpensive.
Miso (fermented soy bean paste) and shoyu (Japanese soy sauce) were the main seasonings during the Edo era, and still are now.The techniques of making shoyu, as well as the alcohols sake, shochu and mirin, were honed in this period, just as oil extraction production became more sophisticated and tofu-related products and sweets became more mainstream. But it’s not only about flavours. Much of Japan’s restaurant culture was firmly solidified in the Edo period, and its legacy is still seen across modern-dayTokyo and beyond.
common people of Edo-period Japan, and their legacy can still be seen (and tasted) now in modern-day Tokyo
Snacks that last (this page; above)
The rise of street food stalls and mobile vendors in Edo (Tokyo) following the Great Fire in 1657 cemented tastes among the
FIVE EDO-PERIOD DISHES YOU SHOULD TRY (AND WHERE IN TOKYO TO FIND THEM)
1
Tempura
Tempura (battered seafood and veg) became popular in the mid-Edo period as a street snack. Morsels of fish, prawns and veg were stuck on bamboo skewers, coated with batter, then deepfried and eaten on the spot.As the tempura boom took hold, the batter shifted to flour mixed with water and shoyu for vegetables, or a simple flour dusting for fish, resembling the veil-thin batter you’ll commonly see today. Where to eat: Tempura Fukamachi, 2-5-2 Kyobashi, Chuo City.
2
Edomae sushi
Edomae sushi consisted of rice flavoured with akasu (derived from aged sake lees) topped with fish either soused in vinegar, marinated in miso or shoyu, or lightly grilled. Back then, pieces of nigiri (rice topped with fish) were large (about 40g), and were meant to be eaten in a few bites while standing. Leaner fish, such as gizzard shad, horse mackerel, sea bream and whitebait caught inTokyo Bay, were preferred. Where to eat: Sushi Tou, 2-24-8, Nishiazabu, Minato City.
3
Unagi (eel)
It was in the mid-18th century that the kabayaki style – filleting, skewering, steaming, then dipping the unagi (eel) in a sweet shoyu
sauce and grilling – developed.This preparation has since remained virtually unchanged. Where to eat: UnagiYamanochaya, 2-10-6 Nagatacho, Chiyoda City.
4 Oden
Oden is a one-pot dish of slowly simmered daikon, potatoes, deep-fried tofu, konnyaku (konjac) and hard-boiled eggs in a sweet shoyu dashi sauce. Fish cakes, taro and octopus are added and the dish is eaten with mustard and shichimi togarashi (seven-spice mix). In Edo times, however, oden originally took the form of tofu dengaku, grilled tofu skewers with spicy miso. Where to eat: Kagurazaka Esaki, 3-6 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City.
5
Soba noodles
The birth of the waterwheel created a boom in soba flour production in the mid-Edo period. The advent of nihachi soba also changed the cooking method, enhancing the flavour. It all added to the popularity of soba noodles and the upsurge of soba stalls in Tokyo. Classic soba consists of freshly boiled hand-made noodles served on a flat basket (zaru) with a small cup of sweet shoyu broth (tsuyu) for dipping. Where to eat: Sobaya Mori-iro, 5-10-8 Omorinishi, Ota City.
Food writer Nancy Singleton Hachisu is the author of the 2018 cookery book classic Japan: The Cookbook (Phaidon; £40), which features 400 recipes organised by course, and its sequel, Japan: The Vegetarian Cookbook (Phaidon; £40), which divides 250 Japanese vegetarian dishes by cooking style. Both are available to buy now.
Where to go
Next?
Pick your hidden TÜRKİYE ADVENTURE
Türkiye is so large that it’s home to almost countless secret adventures, whether you long for nature or prefer to explore the country’s history and heritage…
Türkiye is a land of incredibly diverse topography, brimming with a history that envelops even the dawn of civilisation. It is also a meeting ground for East and West, where a wealth of hidden histories, ancient cultures and untapped locations are found. Discovering its natural and cultural secrets is always the most exciting part of any visit.
Unwrap nature in Anatolia and the Black Coast
The Black Sea province of Kastamonu, deep in Anatolia’s far north, features many of Türkiye’s grandest landscapes. Mountainous, and covered in dense forest thanks to a mild climate, the region has a bounty of exciting corners to explore, including the historic city of Kastamonu, where a medieval castle and well-preserved Ottoman mansion houses set the scene.
Elsewhere, pure nature is the draw here. Birdwatchers flock to Ilgaz Mountain National Park to spy black woodpeckers and golden eagles, while the landscape around Dipsiz Lake – whose crystal-clear waters are surrounded by beautiful flowers in spring –is a popular hiking and camping spot.
Perhaps most dramatic of all is Küre Mountains National Park, which spans deep caves, canyons, fountains and waterfalls. The park’s Valla Canyon (1,000m) is one of the world’s deepest, and it has a 3km-long observation deck attached to the rock.
Soak up Sinop’s outdoors
Known for its scenic harbours, historic Sinop lies on the northernmost edge of Türkiye’s Black Sea coast. Historically, it was the scene of the Crimean War’s Battle of Sinop in 1853, which is often thought to be that last major skirmish of the Age of Sail.
With castles and museums galore, there are plenty of ways to soak up the region’s history. The wider area is also blessed with some unique landscapes, with the Boyabat lava columns found just an hour’s drive south. Formed millions of years ago, these huge towers of basalt rock soar about 40m high and cover an area of 10 hectares. They are also, unsurprisingly, one of Türkiye’s registered natural monuments.
İnceburun, at the north-west end of the Sinop peninsula, is where you’ll find the northernmost point of Türkiye. Drop by its still-active lighthouse, which has guided ships though the waters of the Black Sea since the mid-19th century.
Admire the epic forested peaks of Kastamonu from up high
Sinop seeps with picturesque waterfalls
Unpick history in Şanlıurfa
In southern Anatolia, Şanlıurfa is believed the be the birthplace of the prophet Abraham and is a major pilgrimage destination. History is rife here. The Şanlıurfa Archaeology Museum is one of Türkiye’s most important institutions, with the world’s biggest neolithic collection and housing more than 10.000 artefacts, including the world’s oldest known
life-size human statue. Afterwards, stop by the adjacent Haleplibahçe Mosaic Museum – part of a Roman villa that was discovered in 2006 – to see its depictions of Amazon hunting scenes and myths.
History buffs will love the UNESCO World Heritage site at Göbeklitepe, inhabited as far back as 9,500 BC. Home to the world’s oldest megaliths – pre-dating Stonehenge by some 6,000 years – the discoveries made here have turned accepted notions of the birth of civilisation on their head.
Some 40km to the south-east, you’ll also find Göbeklitepe’s ‘sister’ site, Karahantepe, where, since its discovery in 1997, excavations have uncovered 250 obelisks carved with animal figures and a village dating back to 11,000 BC.
Go back in time in Mardin and Nemrut Mardin’s limestone houses make for an arresting sight. Clinging to the side of a hill, at the top of which sits a 3,000-year-old fortress, this ancient city in south-eastern Türkiye’s Mardin Province is known for its multicultural heritage. The impressive Mardin Ulu mosque dates back to 1176, while the Kasimiye Madrasah, built in the 15th century, was one of the most important religious schools in the Islamic world.
Just outside Mardin, the sprawling Mor Gabriel Monastery is among the world’s oldest working monasteries, founded in 397 by the ascetic Mor Shmu’el, or Samuel.
But the crowning glory of the area is still surely Mount Nemrut National Park, where colossal stone heads sit atop the mountain at 2,150m. The 10m-high statues of Hellenic and Persian gods were part of a tomb and temple complex built in 1 BC. It must have been one of the wonders of the age.
Founded in 397, Mor Gabriel Monastery is one of the oldest working monasteries in the world
Animals are carved from Göbeklitepe’s columns
Göbeklitepe is the world’s first-known human made monumental complex
Huge stone heads, thought to be of Hellenic and Persian gods, sit atop Mount Nemrut
Jeddah’s new wave of Heritage Hotels, Saudi Arabia
The UNESCO-listed Jeddah Historic District has launched a trio of heritage sleeps, all converted from restored merchant houses. Here’s why they’ve been worth the wait…
Reviewed by Lyn Hughes
Set onthe Red Sea,Jeddah made its name not only asthe gateway to Mecca but also as a key trading port in centuries gone by. While it’s a vibrant, modern city today, attention has turned to restoring and regenerating Al Balad,the UNESCO-listed OldTown at its heart.The area’s iconic merchant houses, built of coral stone and teak, and their distinctive rawasheen balconies are currently being sensitively returned to their former glory.
Now,three of these historic buildings – Beit Jokhdar,BeitAl Rayess and Beit Kedwan – have opened as ‘Heritage Hotels’,the first in Saudi Arabia to gain this classification. Intimate and luxurious, the houses’ original features have been kept and restored,while plumbing and electricity have been added in an unobtrusive way.To keep up the authenticity, furniture, crafts and artworks were largely sourced from local artists and artisans, some of whom can be visited in nearby studios.
Each stay has its own personality, with 19th-century Beit Jokhdar perhaps the jewel in the crown. Its nine rooms and suites include a two-bedroom ‘Royal Suite’ with a private hammam, while the building’s wonky floors, tiles and green woodwork transport you back in time. Nearby Beit Al Rayess is effortlessly charming and cool, with ceramic bowls set outside the rooms to remind you of what the original inhabitants would have used for their ablutions – though the building is now fully plumbed. Completing the trio is Beit Kedwan,which has just two bedrooms (plus living areas), making it ideal to be hired in
its entirety by a family or two couples.They all come with private roof terraces, to enjoy the sights and sounds of the neighbourhood below.
At just a single square kilometre, the pedestrianised Old Town is easy to explore on foot.The souks sell everything from spices and clothing to glittering gold jewellery. Many artisan workshops and artist’s studios are open to the public, most notably in the flower-filled alleyways of the quarter taken over by the Zawiya 97 collective.
Some of the other historic houses are now museums, and you should spend some time at theTariq Abdulhakim Centre, a new museum and cultural centre covering the life and times of Saudi Arabia’s most famous musician and composer.This summer, the Japanese art collective teamLab Borderless, known for its highly Instagrammable immersive art,also opened a much-anticipated space here.
Away from the hum of the streets, you’ll find sweet figs, aromatic Saudi coffee and refreshing teas behind the wooden doors of the neighbourhood’s newest heritage stays. No meals are included, though Jokhdar has an excellent restaurant and the huge breakfasts –freshly baked breads, earthy foul medames (bean dip), eggs, fresh fruit, warm halloumi drizzled with honey – will last you the day. But the best news is that this is only the first instalment of 34 historic houses due to be restored and turned into Heritage Hotels over the next three years. Room-only rates from £466 per night, including airport transfers; albaladhospitality.com
Jeddah Historic District
BE WOWED IN
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
If you’re exploring Australia’s largest state, it’s best to have the experts on hand to help you unlock the wonders of Western Australia. That’s where Trailfinders comes in…
Western Australia is a land of vast horizons, mighty rivers and staggering coastal beauty. It’s also readily accessible, thanks to non-stop flights from Heathrow to Perth (Boorloo) and a seasonal direct option from Singapore to Broome (Rubibi). And with Trailfinders at the helm, you’ll experience exactly what makes the state such a special destination.
Perth
One look at Perth’s glittering skyline is all it takes to get a sense of Western Australia’s vibrant, cosmopolitan capital, where bustling neighbourhoods, street art and worldclass restaurants exist side by side. Despite being home to more than two million people, this thriving metropolis – known as Boorloo in the Noongar language – is also within touching distance of some unforgettable outdoor adventures.
Rock stars (this page; top) The Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park is one of Western Australia’s remarkable natural landmarks
Australia’s sunniest state capital sits where the Swan River (Derbarl Yerrigan) meets the Indian Ocean. It has 19 soft-sand beaches on its doorstep, with bushland, wine regions and endemic Aussie wildlife also found within half an hour of the centre. It means you can enjoy heritage hotels, craft bars and alfresco dining on the same day as taking a whale-watching cruise, kayaking to kangaroo-roamed islands or even swimming with wild dolphins.
Shutterstock; Trailfinders
Mere minutes across the sea, meanwhile, car-free Rottnest Island (Wadjemup) offers secluded beaches and adorable, rare quokkas.
Margaret River
Western Australia’s sunny climate and fertile valleys have blessed it with superb wine-growing terrain. A case in point is the Margaret River Region, where premium wines are created just 2.5 hours from Perth, in a setting lined with age-old forests and sweeping beaches. More than 150 wineries are found here, earning a reputation for graceful Cabernet Sauvignons and prize-winning white wines.
Sampling these vintages in situ is deeply enjoyable, with cellar-door visits allowing you to indulge in tasting sessions (and exquisite local food) while meeting local wine producers. Alongside these gastronomic joys, the region is packed with natural charms – amid its beaches, caves and woodlands, you’ll find surf breaks, leisurely road cycling trails and panoramic hiking routes, not least the iconic Cape to Cape hiking track. For combining fresh air with fine food and drink, there’s nowhere better.
Ningaloo Reef
Western Australia isn’t just packed with epic ancient landscapes – it also holds wonders under the waves.
The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef (Nyinggulu) is an underwater kingdom where you can snorkel with over 500 species of colourful fish, manta rays, turtles and, most famously of all, whale sharks. These gentle sea creatures are the planet’s largest fish species, reaching lengths of 12m or more, and witnessing them up close in their natural domain is extraordinary.
The period between March and July grants the highest chance of seeing whale sharks, but whatever time of year you’re travelling, this rugged stretch of coastline will leave an indelible mark. The so-called
Coral Coast begins just two hours north of Perth and stretches up for some 1,000km to Ningaloo Reef, encompassing dreamy islands, dramatic outback, craggy gorges, white beaches and carpets of wildflowers. With memorable accommodation and dining options, it’s one of Australia’s finest road trips.
The Kimberley
Otherworldly scenery comes as standard in Western Australia, but there’s nowhere quite so raw and untamed as The Kimberley. With its giant skies, fiery sunsets and red-dust landscapes, this huge wilderness is often described as one of Earth’s last true wilderness areas. It’s an ageless land of Aboriginal rock art, cliff-edged swimming holes, sensational wildlife
Sun-ripened state (this page; clockwise from top left) Meet friendly quokkas on Rottnest Island (Wadjemup); swim with whale sharks in Ningaloo Reef (Nyinggulu); few places are better for sampling Australian wines than the Margaret River Region
and in the case of Purnululu National Park, beguiling rock formations. If you’re after the sheer majesty of the Australian outdoors, this is the place. Covering more than 400,000 sq km, the Kimberley holds a whole host of wild experiences. Take a cruise out to witness the astonishing tidal shifts of the Horizontal Waterfalls, wander one of the world’s best beaches at Broome’s Cable Beach (Walmanyjun), explore a meteorite crater at Wolfe Creek Crater National Park, hunt for prehistoric dinosaur footprints at Gantheaume Point (Minyirr) or sink into freshwater swimming holes at Manning Gorge. With remote pioneering towns like Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing adding to the appeal, it’s a place like no other.
About the experts
Western Australia is an enchanting destination, which means having the right guidance is essential to making the most of a trip. Trailfinders has the expertise and local know-how to ensure none of your time is wasted and deliver the ultimate Australian experience. With Trailfinders, your money is secure in a trust account and the team is on hand 24/7, 365 days a year, until you’re safely home.
Germany’s most dramatic castle stays
With some 25,000 schlösser (castles, palaces or manor houses) scattering Germany, you don’t have to travel far to live out your own Grimms’ fairy tale
Reviewed by James March
Raise the drawbridge!
Parkhotel Wasserburg Anholt has big fairy-tale energy, thanks to its impressive moat. But it’s just one of a host of grand castle stays around Germany, with plenty making the most of their medieval roots
PARKHOTEL WASSERBURG ANHOLT, NORTH RHINE-WESTPHALIA
A moat lends any castle stay a touch of gravitas, and this is no exception. Set within a 34-hectare park bursting with magnolia trees, this grandiose medieval stay lies beside the Dutch border in Germany’s deep north-west. An ornate on-site museum is a delightful bonus for guests, with works by masters such as Rembrandt, Jan van Goyen and Bartolomé Murillo on display, while the Mediterranean-influenced restaurant is even more unexpected amid all this Germanic grandeur. Beyond the castle grounds, the outdoors beckon. Spot lynx, boar and deer at nearby Biotope Wildlife Park, or take to the gently undulating roads of Münsterland to cycle the untaxing 100 Castles Route. Rooms from £179 per night, including breakfast; schloss-anholt.de
BURG RABENSTEIN, BAVARIA
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Scanning bouquets of forest from its rocky plateau in the Bavarian upland of Franconian Switzerland, this castle’s bucolic setting is as peaceful as it is spectacular. Mornings are soundtracked by gentle birdsong, while the hallways and lounges inside are flanked by silver suits of armour and mounted swords. These nods to the hotel’s medieval aristocratic history extend to the decor inside the 22 rooms and suites, where you’ll find patterned canopy beds and Gothic windows. The vibe extends to a meat-heavy Franconian menu, while outdoor activities are no less on brand, including archery, axe throwing, knights’ tournaments and falconry. Doubles from £186 per night, including breakfast; burg-rabenstein.de
SCHLOSS LIESER, RHINELAND-PALATINATE
With a location that overlooks the serpentine Moselle (Mosel) River, the slate turrets of this 49-room Neo-Renaissance castle are an imposing sight on arrival.The building itself is a contemporary interpretation of a traditional castle residence, and it was built in the late 19th century by an entrepreneur who started
cultivating vineyards on the surrounding hills to produce his own wine.These days, local rieslings dominate glasses beneath the high cross-vaulted ceilings in the castle’s fine-dining Puricelli restaurant (named after the original owner). Nor is this the only comfort close to home.The underground spa includes a
HOTEL SCHLOSS HOHENHAUS, HESSE
Miles from anywhere, this country house in central Germany’s rural heart sits rather unobtrusively behind ornate wrought-iron gates, with only its onion domes poking above the treeline. Surrounded by 1,200 hectares of forest and agricultural land, local produce is sourced from the surrounding farms, earning the hotel’s Hohenhaus Grill a Michelin green star for sustainability.Yet chef Peter Niemann’s 15-seat, Michelin-starred LaValléeVerte restaurant tends to hog the limelight here.The 22 guest rooms are coloured by warm pastel flourishes, and the on-site spa is just as cosy. Composer Johann Sebastian Bach was born in nearby Eisenach, making this stay the perfect base for a daytrip to his chocolate-box hometown. Rooms from £230 per night, including breakfast; hohenhaus.de
swimming pool, sauna and treatment rooms, whereas those after more action may prefer to grab their boots and hit the winding hikes and trails leading into the Moselle Valley, which start from just outside the castle. Rooms from £175 per night, including breakfast; marriott.com
SCHLOSS HOTEL WASSERBURG, BAVARIA
Surrounded by the shores of Lake Constance – known locally as ‘Bodensee’ (Earth Sea) – this scenic stay makes the most of its location on the thumb-likeWasserburg peninsula, framed by craggy Alpine peaks.With Switzerland across the water and Austria just down the road, international crossroads don’t come more cinematic than this.Though the hotel’s sloping roof and whitewashed walls aren’t as grandiose as Germany’s more traditional hillside castles, the setting more than makes up for that. Be sure to take advantage of the waterside location by touring on one of the small boats bobbing on the eastern side of the marina, or take your time and unwind on the stony beach that flanks the castle’s western walls. Rooms from £125 per night, including breakfast; schloss-hotel-wasserburg.de
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Schloss
Hohenhaus
SCHLOSS PURSCHENSTEIN, SAXONY
The Old BohemianTrack was a long-distance medieval trading route through dense Saxony forest and the craggy Elbe Sandstone Mountains.This castle was once a border stop on the way, protecting travellers on the long journey to what is now modern-day
Czechia. The entrance, rising beneath pointed fairy-tale spires, certainly has an element of Hollywood fantasy about it, while inside are 46 rooms neatly decorated with wooden finishes.The vaulted ceilings and layered chandeliers add grandeur to the
dining room, and the arched stone cellar even hosts a steam grotto and Finnish-style sauna. It’s perhaps at its cosiest in winter, though, when the surrounding forest is blanketed in snow. Rooms from £107 per night, including breakfast; purschenstein.de
BURGHOTEL AUF SCHÖNBURG, RHINELAND-PALATINATE
Old meets new at this hilltop stay,where a 1,000-year-old stone tower and its stocky fortified walls sandwich a tall, red-brick hotel. It’s a curious sight, but the stepped gables and arched windows on the modern building blend in surprisingly well.There’s a tower museum explaining the ramparts in detail,while the rooms – all draped canopy beds and candle chandeliers – exude plenty of medieval kitsch.The produce of the RhineValley is at the mercy of the hotel chefs, and the lavish dining room offers an array of protein-heavy mains, including sausage of wild game with bacon sauerkraut. Rooms from £145 per night, including breakfast; hotel-schoenburg.com
SCHLOSSHOTEL FLEESENSEE, MECKLENBURG-VORPOMMERN
Built in 1842 but razed by a devastating fire in 1912,this reconstructed stay was turned into a Soviet military hospital during the Second World War before housing a kindergarten (among other things) in later years.These days,this Neo-Baroque castle hosts 179 sleek rooms and suites, plus a grand mahogany lobby that sprawls beneath circular light installations. Its flat landscape, beside the languid Mecklenburg Lake Plateau, has made it a golfing hotspot, but you needn’t bring your clubs to enjoy a stay; there’s cycling, tennis, a spa, a library and fine-dining restaurant Blüchers on hand too. Rooms from £163 per night, including breakfast; schlosshotel-fleesensee.com
This country mansion in the spa town of Kronberg, near Frankfurt, was once home to a German empress, and it has played host to the likes of Russia’sTsar Nicholas II and Britain’s King Edward VII – even its golf course was reputedly sketched out by former
US president Dwight D Eisenhower.A lavish hall is lined with Prussian antiques, Flemish tapestries and artworks by Rubens andTitian, while the park-like grounds have been laid out in a picturesque English style – all sweeping lawns and snaking paths.The 61 rooms and suites are spacious and furnished in warm colours, while guests can live their best royal lives beneath octopus-armed chandeliers at restaurantsVictoria and Enrico D’Assia. Doubles from £230 per night, including breakfast;schlosshotel-kronberg.com
SCHLOSSHOTEL KRONBERG, HESSE Alamy
BURG HORNBERG, BURG HORNBERG, BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG
Set amid the NeckarValley’s dense foliage, the rusty-orange-coloured turrets of Burg Hornberg rise high over the neat vineyards that tumble down to the river at the foot of the valley. But despite its beauty, this medieval castle, just one hour north of Stuttgart, is perhaps better known as the fortress home of 16th-century knight Gottfried von Berlichingen, who came to be recognised as Götz of the Iron Hand after he had his hand shot off in battle and replaced by a weighty prosthetic – it’s said he could even
SCHLOSSHOTEL RHEINFELS, RHINELAND-PALATINATE
Gazing out on the Rhine as it charts a course through the lush, UNESCO-listed Middle RhineValley is one of the unadulterated perks of this lofty retreat.This is only embellished by the imposing Rheinfels Castle next door. But despite the presence of the neighbouring ruined fortification,the Schlosshotel Rheinfels doesn’t go hard on its medieval theme, preferring to adopt the timber frame design that is common to the area and once inspired its Romantic poets.The plush spa comes with a pool, steam bath and saunas,while its 67 river-view rooms are overlooked by the myth-soaked Lorelei Rock. Rooms from £136 per night, including breakfast; schloss-rheinfels.de
write with it.These days, Burg Hornberg’s sweeping terrace views, 22 rustic bedrooms, hearty Swabian cuisine and meandering hiking trails make this a sublime hilltop stay. Rooms from £93 per night, including breakfast; burg-hotel-hornberg.de
BURG COLMBERG, BAVARIA
Built in 1318,this hilltop castle is a delightful pit stop on the Romantic Road,which winds through Bavaria’s timber-framed villages. Inside, Burg Colmberg showcases its historical charms in rooms featuring carved beds, wood-beamed ceilings and narrow windows – the kind you might rain down arrows from. A pair of restaurants includes Burgstuben,which is warmed by a crackling fireplace in winter,while Zur Remise’s airy conservatory puts the surrounding forest on widescreen as you dine on local Franconian dishes. Make sure to sample a pint of Schwarzer Ritte (Black Knight), a locally brewed dark beer inspired by the legendary warrior Wolfram von Colmberg. Rooms from £111 per night,including breakfast;burg-colmberg.de
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Four ways to sample the flavours of
GranCanaria
From sustainable fine dining to fresh produce from local fincas – here’s how to taste your way around Gran Canaria
Over the past decade, Gran Canaria has emerged as one of Spain’s most exciting gastronomic destinations. A wave of restaurants and bars helmed by home-grown chefs has reinvented Canarian cuisine by making the most of fresh, local ingredients from the mar y montaña (sea and mountains), placing the island firmly on every gourmet’s bucket list.
Added to this phenomenon is an evolving wine landscape of small –often family-run – bodegas producing wonderful expressions of Indigenous grape varieties. Combined with a rise in immersive food experiences such as banana and coffee plantation visits, it’s easy to see why the island is becoming a cultural and gastronomic hotspot.
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Follow the wine route
Wine has been produced in the Canary Islands for centuries, ever since the Spanish first brought vines here in the 1400s. More than 70% of the wine it produces is red, although there are also some stellar whites, rosés and sparkling and dessert wines.
One must-do activity for oenophiles is the Ruta del Vino de Gran Canaria, a self-guided wine trail that includes vineyards, bodegas, bars and restaurants that produce or showcase local wines. It’s currently the only such route in the Canary Islands, and it includes many small, family-run wineries keen to open their doors (and tasting rooms) to thirsty visitors.
The most common grape varieties to try are listán negro (flavours of sour cherry, raspberries and black pepper)
Fine vines (this page) Gran Canaria’s fincas and plantations are filled with natural produce that benefits from the year-round temperate climate and fertile volcanic soils; the Ruta del Vino de Gran Canaria is the only wine trail in the Canary Islands
and tintilla (black fruits, chocolate and liquorice). For something a little different, visit the high-altitude vineyards of Bodegas Bentayga, located at 1,000m above sea level.
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Feast at fincas and plantations
Thanks to the year-round temperate climate and volcanic soils, Gran Canaria is highly fertile. Plantations of bananas, tropical fruits, tomatoes and more lace the island. It is also one of the only places in Europe that grows coffee. Make your way to the Agaete valley in the north-west of the island to visit the Bodega Los Berrazales, where you’ll be able to have a tour of the coffee plantation and vineyard, plus the chance to both taste and buy its ground coffee and beans.
On the other hand, bananas have been grown on the island for more than 100 years and are exported all over the world. Learn all about the history of the island’s biggest agricultural export at Mundo del Plátano, near the town of Arucas. You’ll get a tour of the banana plantation and the opportunity to try its banana products, including jams, liqueurs and wines. Afterwards, swing by the nearby Arehucas rum factory to sip on the island’s favourite tipple.
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Savour the flavours at local markets
There are farmers’ markets nearly every day of the week here. One of the most traditional takes place at weekends in Teror, when this sleepy town comes alive with stalls selling everything from cheeses to pastries; charcuterie to fresh fruit. Don’t miss the town’s iconic chorizo –a soft, spreadable variety of sausage laced with paprika and spices.
Locally grown (this page; clockwise from top left) Las Palmas de Gran Canaria dates back to the 15th century; the Taste of Spain Association supports young chefs looking to create dishes that use local ingredients; taste freshly baked treats made using the island’s produce; Hacienda la Rekompensa has more than 7,000 banana plants; enjoy fine dining and humble, family-owned restaurants; El Hornillo in Agaete offers picturesque hiking routes
There are many municipal markets during the week where you can pick up local delicacies. Try the one in the centre of the old Indigenous capital of Gáldar, where you should seek out queso flor de guía – a creamy local cheese made using thistle flowers. To see the islands’ ingredients put to good use, make a stop at Mercado del Puerto in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, a gastro-market packed with tapas
bars and food stalls. Among these is Piscos Y Buches, where tasty small plates are washed down with some great Canarian wine.
4Try Michelinstarred cuisine
Gran Canaria is part of the Taste of Spain Association, an initiative that supports and promotes young chefs looking to find creative ways to use local ingredients. It’s likely why this tiny island counts three Michelin-starred restaurants (Tabaiba, Bevir and Poemas by Hermanos Padrón) among its roster of great places to eat.
One spot that has caught the eye recently is Muxgo in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, which now holds a Michelin green star – awarded to those restaurants leading the way in sustainable practices. It’s the work of chef Borja Marrero, who sources as much as possible from his finca high in the mountains. There is also Casa Romántica, near Agaete, which has a zero-kilometre approach to its ingredients and a menu that is distinctly Canarian. So buen provecho!
travelogues
Trace Andalucia’s Moorish history by rail, follow in the footsteps of nomads in Kazakhstan, learn how Indigenous Costa Ricans rebuilt their past, and more…
Horns of the buffalo
A rickshaw puller embraces his heritage in South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal, the ancestral home of the Zulu people, whose history is written in the many battlefields that scatter the province; see page
HIDDEN MADRID
Madrid may be an iconic European capital but it boasts unsung neighbourhoods with plenty of authentic local charm, historyladen streets and green corners, writes Elizabeth Bennett
With its world-class museums, fascinating history and delicious cuisine, Madrid has much to offer travellers. However, to truly get under the skin of this city, you need to head away from its popular corners and venture to some of its less-visited barrios (neighbourhoods).
Lavapiés
Despite its central location at the south-east corner of Madrid’s
almond-shaped inner core, the neighbourhood of Lavapiés has retained a distinct feel. Thanks to its multicultural locals, the jumble of steep and narrow medieval streets are lined with shops, restaurants and bars that have roots across the world from Bangladesh and Senegal to Morocco and Mexico. Many travellers come here for Madrid’s foremost modern art museum, Reina Sofía, with its tour through Spanish art with works by greats including Dalí,
Miró and Picasso, while social and cultural centre La Casa Encendida features contemporary art exhibitions and workshops, with a lofty rooftop terrace bar and café.
Delicious Madrid (clockwise from top left) Arty Lavapiés; Calle de Santa Isabel is one of Lavapiés’ most important streets; La Reina Sofía is home to Picasso’s Guernica
Traditional covered market Antón Martín is great for a perusal of the local fresh produce stalls as well as a casual quick bite, whether it’s tacos, empanadas or sushi you’re after. For something more elevated, the market is also home to Doppelganger, the small open-kitchen restaurant from Samy Ali. Formerly of the Michelinstarred La Candela Restò, this spot’s casual take on fine dining creatively blends Mediterranean, Asian and South American flavours. Bed down at Cool Rooms Palacio de Atocha, a 19th-century townhouse turned into a stylish new boutique hotel, where rooms blend vintage with glamorous design details. It has a shaded courtyard pool and a tapas spot, El 34, masterminded by Michelin-star chef Joseba Guijarro.
Barrio de Salamanca
Madrid’s most upscale neighbourhood is a lesson in elegance, with designer boutiques and smart restaurants lining its majestic 19th-century boulevards. While the Golden Mile’s luxury
shopping is a draw for many, the neighbourhood is also culturally rich.
The Lázaro Galdiano Foundation Museum, which houses the art critic’s personal collection, has notable works including Hieronymus Bosch’s St Jerome at Prayer and Goya’s Aquelarre, while the newly opened La Casa de la Arquitectura shines a light on architecture, urbanism and landscape design across Spain.
The National Museum of Natural Sciences’s collection of over 11 million specimens, and the Residencia de Estudiantes’s programme of concerts, poetry readings and exhibitions, are also worth adding to a Madrid trip.
For one of the city’s best slices of melt-in-the-middle tortilla (the Spanish potato omelette), familyrun traditional bar-café Casa Dani in Mercado de La Paz is the spot to go to. Despite its distance from the sea, Madrid is known for its fish and seafood dishes and in Salamanca, chef Dani García’s Lobito de Mar is a maritime paradise, whether you choose tapas at the bar or a more formal meal in the plush dining room. Salamanca is an ideal place to stay for peace and quiet with El Retiro Park
on your doorstep. There’s a wealth of accommodation options like boutique hotel Tótem Madrid, with its calming rooms and decadent bar.
Plaza de España
One of Madrid’s most symbolic squares, recently refurbished Plaza de España is where two of the city’s major avenues – Gran Vía and Calle de Princesa – meet. It’s worth a wander for its sculptures and cycle paths, as well as for ongoing festivals and cultural events.
The Cerralbo Museum, housed in the palatial mansion of the 17th Marquis of Cerralbo, and Liria Palace, the official Madrid residence of the House of Alba, are palatial houses that give an insight into the city’s aristocratic history as well as showcasing fine collections of art and decorative objects. The 92m Faro de Moncloa observation deck offers citywide vistas, while one of the more curious things you’ll see in Madrid is the Templo de Debod, a second century BC temple given to the city by the Egyptian government and one of the best spots to spend an evening as the sun sinks below the ruins.
There are plenty of places to stay around the Plaza de España but two options that stick out are the VP Plaza de España Design with its contemporary features and Scandi touches, while the boutique Dear Hotel offers a calm retreat while you people-watch above the bustling Gran Vía. They’re ideal bases for exploring Madrid’s hidden side.
Secret Madrid (this page; clockwise from top) Find Madrid’s hidden side in its neighbourhoods; the Liria Palace was built in 1770; the Cerralbo Museum has more than 50,000 objects; Stroll central Plaza de España
struggle Heaven’s
While the battlefields of South Africa’s KwaZula-Natal province shine a light on its difficult past, a war on poaching is currently being won in its private reserves
Words Lyn Hughes Photographs (unless stated otherwise) Simon Chubb
ÒWe have to learn from history, but we don’t.” The heartfelt words of Mphiwa Ntanzi, a guide for Fugitives’ Drift, were carried on the bitterly cold wind as we huddled on a ridge overlooking a large plain. It was there that a force of 20,000 Zulu warriors had obliterated a British contingent in just two hours in the Battle of Isandlwana on 22 January 1879. As clever as the Zulus were, this was as much a tale of colonial arrogance and wasted lives.
We were in the heart of the South African province of KwaZulu-Natal, and Mphiwa had just finished explaining that when the Zulus first came to this area and found plentiful grass for their cattle, they named it the Place of the People of Heaven.All the British of the late 19th century saw was a chance to merge South Africa’s hotpotch of colonies.They believed that the Zulu stood in their way, so they engineered a war they thought they’d win.
Mphiwa had talked us through the events leading up to the battle in which the British mounted their invasion of Zululand, confident of routing the Zulu army. Thinking their enemy was 55km away, a temporary camp had been set up at Isandlwana while the commander of the British forces in South
Africa, Lord Chelmsford, led the majority of the troops away to look for the Zulu.
“They underestimated their enemy,” said Mphiwa. “A dangerous thing to do.”
Mphiwa was born locally, and for him there was a personal connection to this history.“My grandfather and great-grandfather fought in the battle on the Zulu side,” he revealed.
We drove down to the battlefield and were met by the sobering sight of numerous white cairns marking where the bodies of British soldiers were found. In the car, Mphiwa played a tape of the late historian David Rattray setting the scene for the battle, outlining the characters involved: “It reads like a great Shakespearean tragedy,” the recording narrated.
the 1964 film starring Michael Caine. Based on events in the hours following the routing at Isandlwana, it tells the story of how a small number of plucky Brits held out against the Zulu army in nearby Rorke’s Drift.
“Several thousand Zulus marched on Rorke’s Drift and its 139 British soldiers”
A gifted storyteller, Rattray did much to popularise battlefield tours of KwaZulu-Natal before his untimely death. I was staying a couple of nights at Fugitives’ Drift, a lodge and private reserve that is still home to his family. I had attended one of David’s lectures back in the 1990s, but I could remember little from it; instead, the first picture of the AngloZulu war that came to mind was from Zulu,
In the afternoon, I headed to Rorke’s Drift to see it for myself, and it was a shock to find just how intimate the site was. In 1879, the then mission station had been commandeered by the British as a field hospital and supply depot, and a small garrison was left there while the British forces headed out in search of the Zulu army. Following the battle of Isandlwana, several thousand Zulus marched on Rorke’s Drift, where just 139 soldiers, some already ill or injured, repelled them after 12 hours of fighting. Their only defence was a swiftly erected wall made of maize bags. ElevenVictoria Cross medals were awarded to men who fought there, the most ever in a single action by one regiment.
The hairs tingled on the back of my neck as I heard the story of the encounter, vividly told by another one of Fugitives’ Drifts’ guides. As we walked around the outside of the
War stories (this page; top to bottom) The former mission post at Rorke’s Drift is surprisingly small, but it is the site of one of the most famous battles of the Anglo-Zulu wars; Fugitives’ Drift lodge makes a comfy base for visiting the battlefields with its acclaimed guides; (opposite page; clockwise from top left) Isandlwana was the site of one of the British Empire’s worst defeats in Africa; local guide Mphiwa Ntanzi’s grandfather and great-grandfather were part of the 20,000-strong Zulu army at Isandlwana; the British were defeated by the Boers at Spioenkop [both images]; (previous spread) horses roam Spioenkop battlefield
Earning your stripes (this page; clockwise from top left) Zebra stripes are now believed to give these animals advantages such as repelling tsetse and other flies; giraffe numbers are dropping throughout Africa; the mother of Simon Blackburn [pictured] was a civil rights campaigner; Fugitives’ Drift looks out towards the battlefields of Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift, as well as a nearby site where two soldiers from the Battle of Isandlwana died in an attempt to save the Queen’s Colour of their regiment; guide Pierre Jonker brings the story of the Battle of Spioenkop to life; (opposite page) sunset over the Drakensberg from Three Tree Hill
building that had served as the hospital, it was all too easy to imagine the scene as it would have been that afternoon and night. It somehow didn’t seem that long ago in time.
I was surprised that there were no people there other than our small party from the lodge. But visitor numbers to KwaZulu-Natal are still down from pre-pandemic levels and, while the coastal hotels had domestic guests enjoying the generally warm winter weather, the interior was being discovered by a small but discerning mix of global travellers enjoying the intimate family-owned lodges. It made for a peaceful setting as I explored a province that has seen its share of battles.
OVER THE HILL
Arriving at Three Tree Hill Lodge, having travelled through bucolic farmland scattered with grazing cattle, I was startled to see a solo male zebra hanging out by the gate, as if to welcome me. It was part of a group that had escaped from the neighbouring reserve.
Up near the main buildings, several horses wandered freely and the trees were alive with fluttering birds. As I walked into the lodge’s communal lounge, I spotted shelves crammed with history books as well as the more usual wildlife and travel guides. On an antique writing desk were artefacts from the Boer War.
Owners Cheryl and Simon Blackburn were consummate hosts, and they didn’t speak much about themselves. But I had learnt that Simon’s mother was Molly Blackburn, an anti-apartheid activist who lost her life in a car crash in 1985.
“Around 30,000 people attended her funeral,” said Simon when I mentioned that I’d been reading the press clippings about his mother in the onsite library built in her memory.
The lodge works closely with the local community, and duty manager Ntobeko Ntshingilato took me out to visit them, teaching me a few isiZulu words and expressions along the way.We stopped first at a traditional round beehive house, still lived in by a sharp-witted lady said to be over 100 years old. After Ntobeko checked that she was happy for me to visit, I stooped through the low doorway (which traditionally made it difficult for enemies to enter) and was gestured to sit on the floor.
Gogo (Grandmother) complimented the way I sat, legs tucked to my side, and I looked around at the simple but clean surroundings.The floor and wall were made of cow dung and mud, and the domed roof consisted of grasses bound so tight that they didn’t let in any rain. I longed to quiz her of how life had been when she was young, but the afternoon had turned hot. Gogo fanned
herself, saying she was tired, and asked us to buy her a cold drink from the village.
In Hambrook village, the dwellings varied considerably, from circular rondavels reminiscent of the beehive houses (but made from mud bricks) through to the standard rectangles of the modern world. Each sat within a fenced plot, and Ntobeko explained that most families had a few cows that grazed out during the day but were brought back at night. Cattle are still important to the Zulu, and she explained how the dowry (lobola) for marriage is 11 cows, to be given to the woman’s family by the suitor. But, as this is beyond the means of many families, a lot of couples don’t marry, or wait a very long time.
Back at the lodge, the view from my cottage peered down into the valley of Spioenkop Nature Reserve, and I caught glimpses of giraffes among the trees.
rise of the Zulus under Shaka Zulu (“Let’s be clear: he wasn’t a nice man”) and the circumstances that brought the Boers here (“They were tough people who hated being told what to do.They were looking for land and freedom”).Then came the history of the Second Anglo-Boer War and the Battle of Spioenkop (23–24 January 1900).
We drove to the hill where the battle had been fought.The British had advanced on a dark and misty night to take it, but in the morning they found that they had been encircled by the Boers.
“It was hard to believe this was the site of the bloodiest battle in the Second Anglo-Boer War”
The Drakensberg mountains were a blue haze on the horizon, and the hill of Spioenkop dominated the scene. Among so much natural beauty it was hard to believe this was the site of the bloodiest battle in the Second Anglo-BoerWar (1899–1902), which pitted British colonial ambition against a pair of republics set up by the Boers (descendants of Dutch, German and French Huguenot settlers).
Guide Pierre Jonker took us guests through a whirlwind history of the area: the waves of immigration over the centuries, the
“The Boers were not an army as such; they were all volunteers, commandos,” explained Pierre. But they had an advantage: they could see the British silhouetted against the hill.The latter had dug trenches but, due to the hard ground, these were shallow, so their troops were conspicuous. “It was the single bloodiest day of the war,” said Pierre. Many of the soldiers were from Liverpool and Lancashire, which is why Liverpool Football Club’s famous supporters’ stand at Anfield is named The Kop, in honour of the memory of the fallen soldiers.The battle may also have had another lasting impact, as it was notable for the fact that Mahatma Gandhi and the future prime ministers of South Africa (Louis Botha) and the UK (Winston Churchill) were present, suggesting it may have influenced far more than a single war.
A LAST REFUGE
The next morning, as I was packing to leave Three Tree Hill, I looked down from my verandah and saw two white rhinos in the valley below. Peering through my binoculars, I could see they had been dehorned, a security measure taken to reduce the chance of them being poached.While the era of the big historical wars may be over here, the new battlefront is the fight against poachers decimating rhino populations for their horns.
KwaZulu-Natal’s Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park was once known as a stronghold for rhinos, but after more than 300 were killed here in 2023, it was decided that a mass dehorning programme would be carried out, to deter the poachers. However, when the rhino dehorning began in April 2024, it opened up a new front in the war against poaching.
“It became a race between the good guys and the bad guys,” said Josie Reilly of the Zululand Rhino Orphanage.The orphanage took in seven rhino calves in April alone after poachers had swept in to take their mothers before the dehorning began.The good news is that there has been an 80% drop in poaching in the park since.
Operated by the Zululand Conservation Trust, the Rhino Orphanage is based in a secret and highly secure location. It only accepts a limited number of visitors to help fund their work.“You can’t take any photos,” stressed Josie, “and definitely not on your phone, due to geolocation. It’s far too risky for the orphanage.”
Looking at the tiny horns on the orphan calves under their charge, it was hard to comprehend why security had to be so tight. But Kelly referred back to an incident in 2017 when armed men attacked the Thula Thula Rhino Orphanage, killing two of the orphans and brutally dehorning them – one while it was still alive.The mostly female staff had been tied up and assaulted, so no chances were being taken here.
The baby rhinos arrive very traumatised, and early care includes the use of memory blockers. Once settled, they join the other orphans, which are currently divided into two groups by age.A tiny black rhino orphan was in an enclosure on its own, but it was due to join a younger group of white rhinos. When they get to around three to four years old and become self-reliant, they are carefully
“They have different personalities,” said Kelly fondly. “Samson is a scaredy cat. Griffin is very friendly. Lula loves food.” It was heart-wrenching to hear their tales. One is blind, but a sighted female calf has become his best buddy and acts as his eyes. Another was missing an ear – it is thought that she tried to protect her mum when the poachers came, so they swung a machete at her. “Unsurprisingly, it has made her a bit spicy!” said Josie.
Having a black rhino calf has added another challenge. “There were behavioural differences in her that we didn’t know how to interpret.White rhinos are much easier to read,” Josie explained. But since a rhino enrichment student came to review the black rhino, it is much happier. “We’ve seen a real difference, and it means we’ve made more progress with her.”
NATURE’S UNDERDOGS
“There has been an 80% drop in poaching in the park since it began dehorning”
Due to the poaching epidemic in South Africa, it’s no surprise that private reserves, with their greater resources and security, have become the safest sanctuary for wildlife. At Manyoni Private Game Reserve, home to black and white rhinos, it was a thrill to see a pair of white rhinos on the drive in. A fellow guest at the reserve’s Leopard Mountain Lodge told me how she had seen a dehorning operation that morning.“It was interesting, but also so upsetting that they have to do it,” she said.
Another set of guests had just returned from a drive where they had been held up by a group of lions very close by.
“We have lots of warthogs here,” said one of the reserve’s team. “They are easy prey for the lions, which is why they sometimes come close to the lodge!” I now understood the instructions warning not to visit or leave rooms without an escort.
I joined some other just-arrived guests on a late-afternoon game drive. Our guide, Graeme, asked whether there was anything we wanted to see.“Lions!” was the immediate response from my Belgian companions. I’m sure Graeme was not surprised, but he was determined that we were going to appreciate the less sexy creatures of the reserve too.
“Impalas are the most overlooked animal,” he announced, and he pulled up close to a group of these medium-sized antelopes.
front line (this page; top to bottom) There are very few traditional beehive huts left, and they are rebuilt every two years from mud, cow dung and grass;
in Fugitives’ Drift’s private reserve; taking a drive through the privately run Manyoni Game Reserve; (opposite page; top to bottom) Manyoni has both white (like this one) and black rhinos, which are dehorned to avoid the attentions of poachers; impalas are remarkably versatile antelopes, which graze and browse depending on the habitat and time of year – the females also give birth at the same time, as it’s easier to keep their young safe collectively released back into the wild – ideally to where they originally came from.
The
wildebeest thrive
6 highlights of KwaZulu-Natal
Durban
Take the excellent guided tour of the city’s Botanic Gardens, which are the oldest in Africa. Other highlights include Victoria Street market and local lunch favourite bunny chow – hollowedout bread filled with curry.
Battlefield tours
Even if you don’t generally find historical battles of interest, delving into the region’s turbulent past is fascinating when accompanied by an expert guide.
uKhahlamba-Drakensberg National Park
Southern Africa’s highest, most spectacular mountainous area is heaven for hikers. Over 40,000 San rock art paintings can be seen here, and the wildlife includes eland, baboons and white rhino.
Take a safari
KwaZulu-Natal is crammed with impressive reserves, both staterun and private. Hluhluwe–iMfolozi is the oldest proclaimed reserve in Africa and is home to all the Big 5, though it is renowned for its rhinos. Stand out private reserves include Manyoni, Thula Thula and Babanango.
Lake St Lucia
Part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, this lake and estuary is home to South Africa’s largest congregation of hippos – 800 to 1,500, depending on who you listen to. They are so habituated to humans that they even wander the town of St Lucia at night.
Whale watching
Humpback whales migrate along the coast from May to November. Southern right and minke whales can sometimes be seen, too.
The Bluff, a southern suburb of Durban, has been designated a Whale Heritage Area, with whalewatching trips run from both there and settlements along the coast.
As he talked through their colouring and markings, their social structure and behaviour, I realised with embarrassment that it was the first time in all my years of wildlife watching that I had properly studied them.
The next stop was by a group of zebras –my personal favourite. “Why do they have stripes?” Graeme quizzed the group. After we floundered, he took us through a list of reasons: camouflage; they repel tsetse flies (and flies generally); identification (every zebra is different); temperature control.
The stream of facts carried on coming as we worked our way along the dirt tracks. It was then, in a clearing, that we spotted the unmistakable shape of the king of the jungle.
“He’s a juvenile male, and he’s been separated from his family,” said Graeme,
watching as the lion emitted a plaintive call to its absent kin. He estimated that it was 18 months to two years old. “So he’s not going to be with his family for much longer anyway. He will be pushed away when he’s two or two-and-a-half years old.”
The young male is one of around 40 lions that live in the 23,000 hectare reserve. Manyoni was created from 17 different landowners dropping their fences in 2004, and it is home to all the big five as well as many endangered and vulnerable species, including cheetah. It reintroduces rare animals, works closely with the Zululand Conservation Trust and hosts a pangolin rehabilitation programme, which releases rescued pangolins back into the wild when fit, and then carefully monitors their progress.
Safari sightings (clockwise from top left) Nyalas are among the most beautiful antelopes; the rural roads in KwaZulu-Natal are nearly empty of traffic; lions have close family ties, but this juvenile male in Manyoni Game Reserve had temporarily lost his mother; pangolins are the most trafficked animal in the world, but rescued ones are being successfully introduced into private reserves such as Manyoni ⊲
Manyoni’s scenery is surprisingly diverse, with forest, bush, grasslands, rocky hills and a river resulting in a wide range of habitats, hence the broad variety of species thriving here – over 450 types of bird and more than 70 mammals. My room at Leopard Mountain (yet another family-run lodge) had panoramic views over the reserve and the dried-up Msunduze River, all the way through to the Lebombo Mountains in the far distance.
I fell asleep to a soundtrack of roars, and in the morning we were told how lions had been outside the staff quarters when the team tried getting up. “It was chaos,” laughed one employee. The morning game drive then brought a sighting of a lioness with her two young, as well as glimpses of two large males sauntering through the bush with a swagger.
It was an opportunity to appreciate the less glamorous critters too. I’d seen wildebeest in large herds before, but not individual males guarding their own small territory. We spent time close to a herd of nyalas (spiral-horned antelopes), appreciating how beautiful they were. It was the same for the giraffes – extraordinary creatures whose Zulu name translates to ‘taller than the trees’.They are vulnerable to extinction, and yet this is rarely talked about. I even saw my first pangolin in the wild.
At mid-morning, we pulled up at a viewpoint to admire the scenery that stretched in front of us, and to enjoy a ‘rangers special’ –hot chocolate mixed with coffee and spiked with Amarula liqueur. After such an exciting morning, I was thankful to Manyoni and the other KwaZulu-Natal reserves for proactively conserving what is left of Africa’s wildlife.
As Mphiwa had implored all those days ago: we have to learn from our past. I thought back to the battlefields I’d seen, the wars that had been fought here, and the peace that had eventually descended. Like the many brave employees I’d met, I longed for the day South Africa’s poaching war would be just another tragic footnote in its history. For now, though, I contented myself with a last glimpse of what the Zulu had once called heaven.
KwaZulu -Natal
South Africa
Lesotho
Eswatini
Isandlwana Battlefield
Hluhluwe–iMfolozi Park
Durban Manyoni PGR
Spioenkop Battlefield
Time of plenty (clockwise from top left) The lake and wetlands of St Lucia are home to buffalos, crocodiles and South Africa’s largest population of hippos; adult male nyalas are easily identified, thanks to their spectacular spiral horns; owing to its abundant prey (particularly warthogs), Manyoni Game Reserve has a large population of lions
Need to know
When to go
Winter (May to September) has dry, sunny days and cool nights, although temperatures can fluctuate (take layers). This is generally the best time for wildlife viewing, as animals gather at the water and are easier to see due to the lack of foliage. It is also the best time for hiking. Fires – controlled or otherwise – can make it hazy. Summer (October to March) is hot, green and lush. Rain and storms occur on most days, but usually just for a brief period. This is a good season for migrant birds. Whalewatching on the coast is best between July and December.
Getting there & around
There are currently no direct flights from the UK to Durban. Options include going via Dubai with Emirates (emirates.com) or via Johannesburg with several airlines. Flights via Dubai cost from £799 return, taking 17 hours. Self-drive is the most common way to get around, and there is little traffic outside the big centres. Off the highways, many roads are unsealed and unlit, and potholes make it unwise to drive at night.
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Durban via Dubai produces 1,720kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ inspiration/sustainable-travel.
Currency & visa
Currency: South African rand (ZAR ), currently around ZAR22.8 to the UK£. Credit and debit cards are accepted at most hotels and lodges, but it is good to have a supply of cash for fuel stations, tipping and souvenirs. Visa: Not required by UK citizens for stays of up to 90 days.
Where to stay
Leopard Mountain Game
Lodge, Manyoni Private Game Reserve (leopardmountain.co.za), has just nine rooms, but this
luxurious family-run lodge delivers on service, wildlife and scenery.
The Spioenkop tour is a must at Three Tree Hill, Spioenkop (threetreehill.co.za), but there is plenty more to do at this welcoming lodge, including nature walks, horse riding, mountain biking, visiting the local village, exploring the Drakensberg or simply relaxing.
Sisimiut Kangerlussuaq
Fugitives’ Drift, Rorke’s Drift (fugitivesdrift.com), is worldfamous for its battlefield tours and acclaimed guides. You’ll see plenty of wildlife too.
Makakatana Bay Lodge, St Lucia (makakatana.com), is a privately owned lodge on the shores of Lake St Lucia within iSimangaliso Wetland Park. This is the place to see hippos galore, crocs and other wetland species.
The Oyster Box, Umhlanga Rocks (oysterboxhotel.com), is an iconic five-star coastal hotel. It oozes charm: think Art Deco design, afternoon tea, a private library and a famous curry buffet. It’s a great base for visiting Durban. Sala Beach House, Ballito (salabeach.co.za), is an achingly gorgeous boutique hotel situated on the Dolphin Coast and within easy reach of the airport.
Conservation
The Zululand Conservation Trust website (zululandconservationtrust.org) has details of how to make a donation or otherwise support their work, including the Zululand Rhino Orphanage. To arrange a visit to the orphanage, go to zululandconservationtrust.org/ product/rhino-orphanage-visit.
The Trip
The author travelled with Audley Travel (audleytravel. com/south-africa). A 12-day KwaZulu-Natal self-drive trip costs from £5,140 per person (based on two travelling). The itinerary includes time in the Midlands, the Drakensburg, the battlefields and Manyoni Private Game Reserve. The price includes flights, a fully insured rental car, accommodation (on a fully inclusive basis on safari; B&B elsewhere) and excursions.
Greenland
Ilulissat Eqi Glacier
Ilimanaq Aasiaat Qeqertarsuaq
NUUK
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LATAM flies into Peruvian capital Lima, a city renowned for its gastronomic fusion of Asian and South American cuisine. Take in Lima’s colonial heart, including the Presidential Palace and cathedral, before enjoying food, drink and nightlife in neighbourhoods like Miraflores and Barranco. The ceviche here is some of the best in the world, so be sure to explore the city’s award-winning restaurants.
A short domestic flight with LATAM takes you to the city of Cusco. Here you’ll find a fascinating mix of colonial and Inca architecture. The city’s Plaza de Armas is one of the most beautiful squares in Latin America, dominated by a 17th-century cathedral, while on the edge of town lies the towering Inca stonework of former fortress Sacsayhuamán.
Peru’s crowning glory is arguably the ancient citadel of Machu Picchu, though this sees a great many visitors. No less impressive, however, are the sights of the Sacred Valley, where magnificent scenery and Inca ruins at Pisac and Ollantaytambo await. Explore terraces and temples, marvel at elegant Inca stonework and savour the incredible history that exists all around you.
Argentina
South America’s second-largest country after Brazil is a feast for the senses. From subtropical forest in the north-east through to pampas plains, verdant vineyards and lush lakes, down to the rugged snow-capped wilderness of Patagonia in the far south, Argentina is a world squeezed within a country. LATAM offers regular flights here, including to capital Buenos Aires and the wine region of Mendoza. The former is Latin America’s most
Glacial gaze (this page; clockwise from top left) Climb the towers of the Basilica of the National Vow in Quito; the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina is 30km long and 5km wide; watching an intimate tango show is a true highlight of visiting Buenos Aires; marvel at the intricate Inca terraces and temples of Machu Picchu
European-style metropolis, renowned for its café culture and gastronomy. Explore the city’s architectural grandeur, including the iconic Plaza de Mayo, which is overlooked by the impressive Metropolitan Cathedral and the palatial Casa Rosada (Pink House). In the evening, delve into Argentinian cuisine (make sure you have an appetite for steak!) before taking in a tango show at the likes of La Ventana, or attending a lively neighbourhood milonga (dance), which are found everywhere from tango clubs to teahouses.
In the west of Argentina, Mendoza is rightly known as the ‘land of sunshine and wine’. This province is brimming with vineyards – even beneath the snow-capped Andes. Take a wine-tasting tour, savouring the region’s full-bodied malbecs, then relax in the lakeside city of Mendoza.
In search of a
PURA VIDA
After surviving colonisation, deforestation and enforced labour, Costa Rica’s Indigenous peoples are reviving traditions and ecosystems lost to the centuries – and visitors are welcome to join in
Words Lina Zeldovich
Jeffrey Villanueva picked a ripened yellow cacao fruit off the tree and hacked it open with a sharp knife, showing me the white seeds inside.
On a wood-burning stove underneath the tall canopy of the Costa Rican jungle, more seeds were already roasting inside an iron pot, giving off a fragrant aroma. He stirred them with a wooden spoon and, once they were done, transferred them onto a long, hand-carved tray.
Next, he ground the dark-brown seeds by hand, unloading the tray onto a boulder before picking up a stone and rocking it back and forth across the seeds, crushing them into a powder.
cultures found here. The country is home to eight Indigenous peoples, comprising 24 communities spread across the country. Each is preserving and restoring traditions, foodways and crafts, some of which were thought lost following colonisation and the arrival of the Spanish in the mid-16th century.
“Costa Rica is home to eight Indigenous peoples, comprising 24 communities spread across the country”
“Want to try your hand at it?” he asked me in Spanish, translated by my guide, Pedro Flores. I took over the stone, which I could barely lift, and mimicked Jeffrey’s hand movements the best I could. Once the seeds were pulverised, we gathered up the powder. Soon enough, I was sipping my morning cacao drink the authentic way: boiled in water and without sugar or milk. It was a far cry from the way I make hot chocolate at home, using a pre-packaged mix.
Costa Rica is famous for its forests and wildlife, but many visitors overlook the
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Jeffrey belongs to the Bröran people of the Térraba (also spelt Teribe) community, who have resided on the banks of the Térraba River in southern Costa Rica for many generations. Though traditionally hunters and fisherpeople, the Térraba also grow beans and corn, embracing the wisdom of their ancestors, which states that: to have a long, healthy life, all food must be made and eaten fresh. The morning’s cacao-making process was a testament to that – it was the freshest, most fragrant drink of cacao I’d ever savoured.
The tour operator I’d arrived with works with the local communities to help them share traditional recipes and crafts, as well as tell their stories in their own voices. However, that history often isn’t easy to hear.
Before the Spanish arrived in Costa Rica, its Indigenous peoples lived off their ancestral lands for generations, taking only what was needed and conserving the rest.When
Down south (right
An aerial view of the remote peninsula forests of Puntarenas, a southern province that is home to a number of Indigenous peoples, including the Boruca and various Térraba communities
Living off the land (this page; clockwise from top) Jeffrey demonstrates the art of roasting and grinding cacao beans to the make the perfect pick-me-up – albeit one that is far from instant; the estuary of the Térraba and Sierpe rivers is home to one of the best-preserved mangrove forests in Costa Rica; a grey-capped flycatcher is one of many birds benefitting from the careful stewardship of the forests by the Bröran and Boruca peoples; (opposite page) grinding
beans by hand is hard work, but it’s all part of the Bröran’s wider belief system, which encourages them to freshly make all their food from scratch
cacao
Alamy; Lina Zeldovich
the conquistadors came, they decimated communities.The ranchers who followed in their wake clear-cut entire forests for farmland and pastures, destroying the ecosystems that Costa Rica’s Indigenous peoples relied on for fishing and hunting. Later, rubber barons forced them to work on these same plantations, breaking families apart.
But, just as Mother Nature regenerates itself, so did Costa Rica’s Indigenous communities.They have spent years reviving cultures and traditions that were lost during this period, which they are now proud to share with anyone who visits. From cooking and carving to planting trees, they now welcome visitors to learn what they call pura vida – a pure way of life. I had arrived here to experience just that, and to see how it offered a different slant on Costa Rica’s usual wildlife, nature and volcano itineraries.
THE IMPORTANCE OF MASKS
The Bröran people of the Térraba community consider themselves matriarchal, viewing women as teachers who preserve traditions down the generations.They’re also known for their wood-carving skills, so later on that morning, it was arranged for me to
meet CarolineVillanueva, a female carver of ceremonial masks. She learnt the craft from her father, Bolmar, and now teaches others.
While I watched Bolmar carve a warrior mask from a chunk of timber, Caroline outlined the shape of a toucan – Costa Rica’s beloved bird – on another piece of wood. She then directed me to take a chisel and mallet to it.Thanks to her guidance, about an hour later, the toucan took shape and we progressed to the painting stage.As I followed her instructions, I added more words to my measly Spanish vocabulary – amarillo for yellow, rojo for red, verde for green.
I also learnt that masks are hugely important to many Indigenous cultures here, representing everything from jungle animals and fearless fighters to evil spirits in festivals and celebrations. Every December, the Bröran people stage a masked performance named Danza del Toro y la Mula (Dance of the Bull and the Mule), symbolising the fight between the Spanish and Costa Rica’s Indigenous people. At the end, the mule, representing the latter, defeats the bull, celebrating the Bröran’s people’s independence.
THE COLOURS OF THE BORUCA
By the peak heat of the early afternoon, I had made the short journey to reach the Boruca (aka Brunca) community.Their territory also lies in the south, and they are known for making dyes from natural materials.
Hiding from the sun in the shade of a tree, I watched as Luisa Leiva and Marina Lazaro laid out heaps of green leaves next to little balls of yarn and bowls of water.
“See all these leaves? They come from different plants,” Luisa told me. She pointed at her display as Pedro translated. “They’re all green, but they will make different colours once we rub them in water.”
She massaged one bunch that she called shuska in the Borucan language, which almost instantly produced a deep purple colour. Meanwhile, Marina’s heap yielded a rich indigo shade – the plant’s name was azul de mata, which roughly translates as bush blue.
I summoned my rudimentary Spanish and asked whether green leaves can make green colour? “Si,” replied Luisa, rubbing the next batch, which she called tuente; it quickly turned a vivid green.
“We carve a lot of masks for this show every year,” Caroline told me. ⊲
By the time Luisa had finished, we had a full rainbow. A paste made from the
“The community believes that birds are their sisters and animals are their brothers, so the more trees they plant, the more animals will return”
achiote bush yielded a reddish-orange hue, the pulp of the mango fruit gave a rich yellow, and the bark of the amarillion tree made brown. There was also the mucus of a particular type of sea mollusc, known as the murex snail, which turned a vibrant lilac colour when left in the sun.
The snails don’t even need to be killed to create this, Luisa explained. “You just pick one up and blow on it gently. It will release a few drops of mucus, and then you put it back,” she said. “The snails come out only at certain times a year, so we have to travel down to the shore when they’re there.”
As soon as the women dipped their yarns into the bowls, the threads soaked up the dyes greedily, instantly changing colour. However, for these colours to last and not fade in the sun, the yarns would have to be boiled for hours, and sometimes even days. Once dried, the women then weave them into clothes, blankets and bags.
“For the snails, you’d have to take your textile with you and put the mucus on it right away,” Luisa said. “That snail dye is so strong that it lasts for years, even as the fabric itself falls apart.”
The practice of making natural dyes almost disappeared towards the end of the 20th century, but the Borucan women gathered the wisdom from the Elders bit by bit and revived the ancient art. “Now we’ll pass it on to the next generation,” Luisa told me.
WATCHING THE FOREST GROW
Elias Elizondo Castro, the cultural leader of the Maleku, likes to meet his guests in traditional clothing, and greeted me wearing a skirt made from the bark of the mastate tree and a matching headband. However, the majority of Maleku people wear Western clothing most of the time these days, in part because there aren’t too many mastate trees left on their territory. In fact, there aren’t many trees left at all here.
The Maleku people are still recovering from their difficult past. Although they
⊲ Alamy; AWL; Lina Zeldovich
Deep in the forests (this page; clockwise from top) You can hear a howler monkey from, literally, miles away – they have one of the loudest calls in nature; the protected wetlands of Térraba-Sierpe, between Puntarenas and Golfito, are home to incredible nature; Caroline Villanueva explains the importance of masks to the Bröran people; (opposite page) the Maleku are replanting the lost forest in the hope of attracting wildlife such as the jaguar back to their land
Five more Indigenous communities in Costa Rica
Cabécar
One of Costa Rica’s largest Indigenous groups (nearly 17,000), the Cabécar people reside in the remote Talamanca mountains. They are a matriarchal community, who maintain centuries-old knowledge of the forests and trails, passing it down the generations.
Chorotega
The Chorotegas describe themselves as descendants of the Mexican cultures who settled in Costa Rica centuries ago. They live in the Matambú district of Guanacaste province and are known for making beautiful pottery decorated in geometric designs reminiscent of the Aztec and Maya. They also use natural dyes to paint their ceramics.
Bribri
The Bribri (meaning courageous) live throughout the Talamanca mountains. They are skilled in a number of artisanal crafts, but they are particularly known for making woven bags, hats, cups and plates, as well as crafting jewellery from coconut shells.
Huetar
The Huetars live in the Indigenous Reserve of Quitirrisí. They are predominantly farmers, though they are also known for producing woven baskets, kitchen utensils, and colourful fans made from palm tree leaves. They have an extensive knowledge of plants, which they still use for medicine.
Ngäbe
The Ngäbe weren’t recognised in Costa Rica as an Indigenous community for a long time. They were considered ‘outsiders’ because they originally came from Panama, and it wasn’t until the 1980s that they were granted their Indigenous rights. Today, they live in the southern part of Costa Rica.
Lina Zeldovich
managed to avoid the conquistadors’ wrath due to their remote location in the country’s far north, their community was decimated in the 19th century by Nicaraguan slave traders, who kidnapped them to work in the rubber plantations. By the early 20th century, the once flourishing Maleku nation had dwindled from 6,000 to barely 250. To add insult to injury, their forests were later cut down and turned into farmland.
It wasn’t until about 35 years ago that the community took back their land and began replanting trees. Today, the Maleku, who are Costa Rica’s smallest Indigenous community (just 650 people), continue their reforestation efforts in a bid to restore their native ecosystem to what it once was.
Traditionally, the Maleku were hunters and fisherpeople, but with their forests gone, they switched to farming.Yet they have held fast to their traditions: the community still believes that birds are their sisters and that animals are their brothers, and that the more trees they plant, the more animals will return to their jungle home, including the jaguar.
“It wasn’t until about 35 years ago that the Maleku community took back their land and began replanting trees”
“For us, forests mean life,” Elias told me. He than asked whether I’d like to help him plant some trees, and invited me to follow. As a keen gardener, I’m familiar with the task, but planting a tree in the jungle is an altogether different experience. As we walked along the narrow forest path carrying the small saplings, Elias motioned for me to stop.
“Let me check there are no poisonous snakes here,” he said, stepping off the path and into the thicket. He shuffled through a thick layer of fallen leaves, cleared a small circle on the ground and nodded to me, indicating that it was safe to follow.
Breathing in the aroma of the forest floor, I dug the shovel into the black dirt. I made a hole and lowered the sapling into it, covering it with leaves. Then we sang a song in Spanish, which roughly translated to: “Grow, grow little tree and become big and strong.”
“That tree will make nuts that the toucans like to eat,” Elias told me as we returned to the path, “so more toucans will come. And other animals will follow too.”
The old ways (left) While modern Maleku have taken to wearing Western clothing, Elias Elizondo Castro sticks to the traditional clothes of his people, typically made from mastate bark
Embracing forest life (this page; clockwise from top left) A squirrel monkey clings to a branch in the mangroves of the Térraba-Sierpe, one of the largest wetlands in Central America; the keel-billed toucan might not be the national bird of Costa Rica (that’s the clay-colored thrush!), but there are few species more synonymous with the country; cooking alongside the women of Juanilama, a community that began in the early 1990s with 125 families being granted land by the government – now it welcomes visitors to see their traditional lifestyle first-hand; making dye the Boruca way with Luisa Leiva and Marina Lazaro Alamy; Lina Zeldovich
BACK TO BASICS
As the storm clouds began to form, I arrived at the Juanilama Agro-Ecological Community, near Santa Rosa de Pocosol. Its members don’t belong to any Indigenous culture, but their story is unique.They were originally a group of 125 low-income families who were gifted a parcel of land from the Costa Rican government in 1991. They chose to make the rainforest their home, but it hasn’t been easy. Not everyone made the transition, explained Giselle Perez, one of the founders.
enough, the enyucados were sizzling in hot oil inside the cast-iron pans, while the fried plantains were cooling off on plates.
Just then, lightning painted the dark sky as torrential rain began to pour. A few seconds later, the electricity cut out, leaving us almost in the dark, save for the stove fire. None of that fazed the women of the Juanilama community, who continued setting up the table and shoving wood into the fire. One of them tapped on her phone and hot salsa music suddenly filled the space.
“Around us, the rain pounded and the thunder roared, but our cooking and dancing lesson went on until dinner was ready”
“When we first came here, we had no electricity or running water, and life was so hard that almost half the people left,” she said. But those who stayed built their pura vida by raising farm animals and growing fruit and veg in the vast jungle.
Yamileth Soto Mendez, another founder, began cooking dinner on a woodburning stove in the community kitchen, underneath a wooden canopy. More women joined in, and so did I, following their instructions at grinding cheese, frying plantains and folding enyucados – a dish of cassava stuffed with ground beef and chorizo sausage. Soon
“Forward step, then back,” Giselle said, showing me the dance moves. She took breaks to flip the enyucados in the darkened kitchen as the other women cheered me on. Around us, the rain pounded and the thunder roared, but our cooking and dancing lesson went on until dinner was ready.
As we were sitting down to enjoy our meal, I realised that I’d had more than a cooking and dance class; I’d just had a lesson in pura vida – the concept woven into the Costa Rican psyche so tightly that it’s essentially their second nature. Life is beautiful, no matter what happens, it says. It’s a lesson that we could all embrace.
Need to know
When to go
Costa Rica is visitable year-round. The dry season is roughly December to April, though it varies across the country, depending on which coast you’re on. Between May and November is the wet season, though this can often means a mix of sunshine and sudden showers throughout the day.
Getting there & around
British Airways (ba.com) offer non-stop flights to San José from London Gatwick Airport for around £580 return, taking 11.5 hours . Delta (delta.com), JetBlue (jetblue.com) and other major airlines all require connections.
Currency & visa
Currency: The Costa Rica colón is currently around CRC677 to the £UK. US dollars are widely accepted across the country.
Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 180 days.
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to San José produces 968kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on finding one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ inspiration/sustainable-travel.
Where to stay
In San José, the author stayed at Hotel Presidente (hotel-presidente.com). Other accommodations on the tour itinerary ranged from modern hotels to stays within Indigenous communities’ homes.
HOW TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF CULTURAL
BUENOS AIRES
Argentina’s capital is the city that truly never sleeps, with culture on display at every turn
Captivating, dynamic, invigorating and endlessly varied, Buenos Aires defies easy categorisation. Stretched along the River Plate – and so wide at this point that it resembles the sea –Argentina’s engaging capital dates back to the 16th century and has a distinct identity shaped by immigration across the centuries. This economic, political, culinary, sporting and cultural hub has a cosmopolitan vibe. And while Buenos Aires is known for its football, world-class tango and steak, it also has much more to offer visitors, thanks to its exquisite architecture and cutting-edge design, innovative restaurants and lost-in-time bars, and tranquil parks and scintillating nightlife.
Endearing neighbourhoods
La Boca
A characterful barrio (neighbourhood) near the port, La Boca has long welcomed newcomers to Buenos Aires. It is home to a giant of world football, Club Atlético Boca Juniors, who play at La Bombonera
(The Chocolate Box). Football fans should check out the memorable stadium tour and museum or, better yet, join the raucous crowds at a match.
Barely a free kick away from La Bombonera lies the eye-catching Caminito, a colourful pedestrianised street revitalised in the 1950s when artist Benito Quinquela Martín began using it as an open-air canvas. His work is displayed at the Benito Quinquela Martín Museum, while the nearby Fundación Proa art centre showcases temporary exhibitions by contemporary artists.
Palermo
A large, leafy and well-heeled barrio in the north of the city, Palermo is awash with parks and botanic gardens, museums and galleries, racecourses and polo grounds. The focal point of this attractive area is Palermo Viejo (Old Palermo), which is roughly divided into two zones: Soho and Hollywood, so-named for their respective resemblance to the namesake New York neighbourhood and connections to the film and TV industries. Both host a dizzying selection of boutique hotels, designer
stores, innovative restaurants, trendy bars and buzzing nightlife venues, as well as a vibrant street-art scene.
San Telmo
One of the oldest neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, San Telmo has a timeless feel. Bordering La Boca, it is a treasure trove of cobbled streets lined with gorgeous period townhouses. Some are gracefully crumbling, others have been painstakingly restored. Although popular with visitors, San Telmo retains a bohemian vibe. Alongside a host of atmospheric cafés and bars, it is known for its array of antique shops and stalls, with Plaza Dorrego the centre of a lively Sunday market. The area is the perfect place for an idle wander – and while you do so, keep an eye out for the beautiful fileteado porteño designs adorning many of the shopfronts.
Recoleta
The upmarket neighbourhood of Recoleta offers a glimpse of the high life. A stroll down the Parisian-style Avenida Alvear takes you past mansions, embassies and luxury hotels, such as the iconic five-star Alvear Palace.
La Boca
Recoleta Cultural Centre San Telmo Market
Palermo Soho
Alongside its famous cemetery, Recoleta has several landscaped parks and gardens and a series of outstanding museums and arts venues, including the Bellas Artes National Museum, which has a huge fine-art collection, and the Recoleta Cultural Centre, which combines exhibition spaces with a cinema, auditorium and amphitheatre. There are also historic café-bars, including La Biela, frequented in the past by sports stars, authors and intellectuals, including writer Jorge Luis Borges.
Chacarita
Long overshadowed by neighbouring Palermo, Chacarita was once best known for its eponymous cemetery, the second grandest in Buenos Aires after Recoleta’s and the final resting place of tango legend Carlos Gardel. Yet, in recent years, the barrio
TANGO TALES
Combining African, Indigenous and European influences, tango emerged from working-class communities in Buenos Aires (and Montevideo in Uruguay) in the late 19th century; it soon grew into a global phenomenon. Today, this sultry music and dance form is central to the identity of porteños, as residents of the city are known. There are countless opportunities to watch, listen to and dance the tango in Buenos Aires, including street performances by talented amateurs, stage shows at storied venues such as Café Tortoni and classes at tango schools. Milongas – social gatherings held in local bars and community centres – are particularly good for catching some traditional tango.
has developed a strong reputation among foodies, thanks to a burgeoning restaurant, café and bar scene centred on Avenida Jorge Newbery. There are also plenty of swish boutiques, design stores, bookshops and cultural spaces, plus a photography museum.
But Chacarita hasn’t lost touch with its working-class roots. For a taste of local life, head to the pizza joints near the station, which are decked out with football memorabilia and serve loaded slices of onion-topped fugazetta (Argentinian-style stuffed pizza).
Puerto Madero
South-east of the city centre, the docks and warehouses of Puerto Madero lay largely abandoned for decades before being revitalised by a regeneration project in the 1990s. While a pair of heritage ships and the fascinating National Immigration Museum provide a reminder of the area’s original function, it is now a glossy modern zone of gleaming high-rises and swish hotels, restaurants and bars, sprinkled with contemporary art galleries.
Architectural highlights include the Puente de la Mujer, an elegant footbridge, while the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve is an unexpectedly biodiverse park, hosting around 340 bird species and providing a welcome flash of green.
Cultural must-sees
MALBA
A dramatic structure blending stone, steel and glass, Palermo’s Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires (aka MALBA) whisks visitors through the history of 20th-century art in South and Central America. It displays more than 400 sculptures, paintings, installations, engravings and photographs from heavyweights such as Frida Kahlo.
Recoleta Cemetery
A vast ‘city of the dead’, Recoleta Cemetery is home to the ornate tombs, crypts, sarcophagi and mausoleums of the great and the good, with designs ranging from
Alamy; Shutterstock; Visit Buenos Aires
MALBA Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires
Chacarita Cemetery
Puerto Madero and the Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge)
Art Deco to Neo-Gothic styles. Its most famous resident is Eva Perón – the former first lady of Argentina, better known as Evita – whose grave has become something of a pilgrimage site.
Caminito
In the heart of La Boca – tracing the route of an old stream – the Caminito (Little Path) is lined with multicoloured wood-andcorrugated-iron tenements built in the late 19th century to house the predominantly Italian immigrants arriving in the area. It is now an open-air museum filled with artists, artisans, dancers and musicians. The colourful façades have become one of the most iconic sights in the city and make for a splendid backdrop when out for a stroll.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
One of the world’s most beautiful bookshops, El Ateneo in Recoleta is based in a glorious theatre built in 1919. It was converted to its current use in 2000 but much of the original décor has been retained, with the stage, stalls and boxes now populated with around 120,000 books.
Colón Theatre
A magnificent opera house renowned across the globe for the quality of its acoustics, the Colón Theatre is a Belle Époque masterpiece. Since opening its doors in 1908, it has hosted a galaxy of illustrious singers, dancers and composers, including Maria Callas and Luciano Pavarotti.
Colón Fábrica
An enchanting museum in La Boca, Colón Fábrica takes you behind the scenes of the Colón Theatre. It displays the elaborate sets, costumes and special effects used in operas, ballets, plays and other performances – from La Bohème to Aida – staged down the years.
GASTRONOMIC STARS
Buenos Aires’ ever-evolving culinary scene is fast gaining an international reputation. In 2023, the Michelin Guide visited Argentina for the first time and awarded stars to three leading restaurants in the city – Aramburu in Recoleta earned two while Don Julio in Palermo and Trescha in neighbouring Villa Crespo picked up one apiece. Steak, of course, is synonymous with Buenos Aires. A multitude of parrillas (steakhouses), from economical local joints to high-end restaurants, serve prime cuts from cattle grazed on the fertile pampas. Alongside tangy chimichurri sauce, the best accompaniment for a succulent bife de chorizo (sirloin) or ojo de bife (rib eye) is a glass of rich, juicy Malbec, Argentina’s signature red wine.
But beef is just the beginning. The city has its own strong and distinctive pizza culture – a testament to the roughly 50% of Argentinians who have Italian heritage. Slices are often served with fainá, a thick chickpea pancake.
No visit to the city is complete without sampling snacks such as empanadas (baked or fried savoury pastries) or a choripán (a sausage in a bread roll). And don’t leave without raising a glass of torrontés –a refreshing, perfumed white wine.
But to really get under the skin of Buenos Aires, you need to try two porteño favourites: mate and alfajores
The former is a caffeine-rich herbal tea drunk from a hollow gourd through a metal straw known as a bombilla, while the latter are pairs of crumbly biscuits sandwiched together by dulce de leche caramelised milk and covered with chocolate, desiccated coconut or sugar, though there are many variations.
Colón Theatre
Recoleta Cemetery
Caminito, La Boca
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Colón Fábrica
Reviving the
Games of the Steppe
As the final arrow of the World Nomad Games is fired in Kazakhstan’s capital, we explore a nation balancing its nomadic roots with a fast-evolving future
Words & photographs George Kipouros
Dust swirled as teams of horses thundered across the steppe, their riders engaged in a fierce contest of strength and skill. Around them, the air crackled with more than just adrenaline; it was the sense of something ancient being brought back to life.
I was watching a game of kokpar, a sport that stems from the nomadic tradition of Central Asia, in which riders gallop at full tilt while battling for control of a dummy goat carcass. It’s rugby meets polo, a true test of endurance and, as I discovered, not for the faint-hearted.
Tension filled the air as the teams from Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan faced off.The thunder of hooves echoed as the former raced the carcass over the scoring line time and again for a home win, to the roar of the crowd.
“The horse was domesticated here on the Kazakh steppe more than 5,000 years ago,” said Yelmira, my local guide, hinting with a tinge of pride that the preternatural skill of the players had been a long time in the making.
Above us, an arrow display sliced through the sky, tracing arcs reminiscent of the paths once travelled by the nomads who ruled these lands.This was the start Kazakhstan had hoped for, as it welcomed
athletes and spectators to capital Astana this past September for theWorld Nomad Games, a sporting event unlike any other.
The Games are a celebration of ancient traditions, where sports such as zhamby atu (horseback archery), bürküt salu (eagle hunting) and er enish (horseback wrestling) take centre stage. It’s a reminder of the shared heritage that once united the nomadic peoples of the Great Steppe, and its fifth edition saw some 2,500 athletes from 89 countries gather for the “Nomad Olympics”. For me, the Games were an opportunity to discover seldom-visited Kazakhstan ⊲
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kokpar match
of the oldest nomadic games in Kazakhstan
takes place beneath the 130m-high minarets of the Astana Grand Mosque. The mosque, completed in 2022, is the largest of its kind in Central Asia, and this scene offers the perfect example of the stark mix of tradition and rapid modern expansion that can be seen playing out across the Kazakh capital and beyond; (opposite page) the World Nomad Games features three different categories for hunting with birds (golden eagles, hawks and falcons), with those who fly them known as berkutchis
– the world’s ninth-largest country – and to explore the legacy of its nomads against a backdrop of rapid modern development.
The night before, I had attended the opening ceremony of the Games, which featured a patriotic tribute to Kazakh history – from the ancient Scythians to the rise of the Kazakh Khanate along the Silk Road.Yelmira filled in the gaps with stories of the country’s modern history, including its Soviet era and Stalin’s policy of land collectivisation in the 1930s, which forced the nomads into collective farms, eventually leading to famine and the collapse of nomadic life in Kazakhstan.
“These games revive lost traditions, helping our people, especially the youth, to reconnect with their roots,” Yelmira explained.
To further help their cause, the organisers set up an ‘Ethno-village’, a festival-like area made up of dozens of showcase yurts – the portable dwellings used by nomadic cultures across Central Asia. Locals from all corners of Kazakhstan had gathered, many in traditional costume, each showcasing their region’s sights, tastes and crafts. It was my first contact with the country’s surprisingly rich tapestry of cultures, languages and faiths.
“The nomads of the steppe were not just herders and warriors; they were the bridge between East and West, connecting
civilisations,” explainedYelmira. This role, as a cultural and geographical crossroads, is something Kazakhstan aspires to embrace today, as a country that spans both Europe and Central Asia.
“I like to compare Kazakhs to (US) Americans: we’re all Kazakhs, but we come from many Tribes. It wasn’t until the 14th century that Kazakhs united under one identity and the term ‘Kazakh’ truly gained its meaning,” Yelmira shared. “Even today, when Kazakhs meet, we ask: ‘Which Tribe are you from?’”
This Tribal diversity is echoed in Kazakhstan’s religious identity. Officially, roughly 70% of the country’s 20 million people identify as Muslim, while 20% are Christian. However, Yelmira highlighted that religion in Kazakhstan is often more cultural than strictly practised. “I am Muslim, but in my family only my uncle is a practising Muslim,” she told me. I found this blend of secularism and religious tradition reflected throughout the country, where mosques stand alongside Orthodox churches, and traces of nomadic animism remain embedded in everyday life.
The new capital
After a couple of days spent immersing myself in the Games, I was eager to explore the host city, Astana.This largely purpose-built metropolis was named the capital in 1997, back when it was still known as Akmola; it was rechristened Astana (meaning ‘capital city’ in Kazakh) the following year.To me, its gleaming skyscrapers and futuristic architecture felt almost out of place against the vast, empty plains that stretched endlessly around it.
“The Games revive lost traditions, helping our people to reconnect with their roots”
Yelmira and I started our exploration along the Millennium Line, a symbolic geographical axis running through the heart of the city, connecting its eastern and western districts. She explained that this axis symbolises Kazakhstan’s unique position as a cultural crossroads.
“Astana isn’t just a city; it represents Kazakhstan’s role as a bridge between cultures,” she said.
As we wandered, I couldn’t help but reflect on how the city’s futuristic structures embodied this fusion of influences.We made our way to the Khan Shatyr, a massive, tent-like building designed by Sir Norman Foster.
Competitive spirit (this page; clockwise from top left) It was only a handful of years ago that the asphalt road to Kolsay Lakes National Park was laid, so it’s little wonder that its pine-speckled slopes and limpid-blue waters still see surprisingly few visitors; horseback archery is one of the more dramatic competitions at the World Nomad Games; traditional archery; (opposite page; clockwise from far left) the yurt representing Almaty at the Games’ ethno-village featured plenty of apples and locals in traditional dress; Kazakh women from Eastern Kazakhstan; the spectacle of the Games’ opening ceremony didn’t disappoint
Yelmira pointed out that this is the world’s largest tent, housing a shopping mall, entertainment venues and even a beach created with sand imported from the Maldives.
“It’s surreal, isn’t it?” she laughed.“Inside, it’s a tropical paradise; outside, the cold winds of the steppe continue to blow.”
“I think it feels rather Dubai-esque,” I mused, still grappling with the contrast.
“But all our new monumental buildings are inspired by our traditions,”Yelmira countered. “There’s nomadic and Kazakh symbolism in all of them.The tent of Khan Shatyr represents our kiyiz ui (yurt).”
To underscore her point, we visited the city’s iconic BayterekTower, known to locals as the ‘Lollipop Tower’. This structure,
topped with a glistening globe, symbolises the Tree of Life, the traditional Kazakh emblem of prosperity and peace, on which Samruk, the holy bird of happiness, was said to have laid her golden egg. It was another vision of Astana’s architectural duality: an effort by modern starchitects to create a unique identity for the country’s capital.
We finished our visit at the Museum of Future Energy, housed in a striking spherical building. The museum’s interactive exhibits explore renewable energy sources like wind, solar and water. Noticeably absent was any mention of the oil and gas industries that have driven Kazakhstan’s economic rise since its independence in 1991.
I left Astana curious as to what became of Kazakhstan’s former capital, the city that it felt the need to leave behind to write itself a whole new story.
The birthplace of apples
If Astana is the heart of Kazakhstan’s political and economic power, Almaty – its capital between 1929 and 1997 – is its cultural soul. Nestled against the dramatic Ile Alatau Mountains, it feels worlds apart from the flat, endless steppe of the northern regions.
The air away from Almaty’s traffic-clogged streets was fragrant with the scent of blooming apple trees. I soon found out why, as my guide, Dina, led me to the pedestrianised shopping street Zhybek Zholy. ⊲
Looking to the future (this page; clockwise from top) Each floor of the Museum of Future Energy is dedicated to a different alternative power; during Soviet rule, Almaty’s Ascension Cathedral was used for a variety of state purposes, with its bell tower even repurposed to fit a radio antenna – the first radio broadcasts in the city were reportedly transmitted from here; guide Yelmira; Astana’s Khan Satyr tent, which houses a shopping complex and entertainment centre, tops 150m when measured to the tip of its spire; (opposite page) following the Millennium Axis through the manicured parks of Astana and beneath Bayterek Tower
“It means ‘Silk Road’, because this area was part of the ancient trading network for centuries,” she explained as we strolled.
I observed just how many of the street stalls were brimming with apples.“The fruit originally comes from this region,” Dina told me, noting that the name ‘Almaty’ likely derives from the Kazakh word for apple. “This area is considered the birthplace of the apple, and thanks to trade routes like the Silk Road, it spread across the world!” She handed me a sweet, aromatic Aport apple, a local variety. As we explored the city centre, its Soviet-style Brutalist buildings were punctuated by the colourful charm of Almaty’s wooden architecture: a blend of local tradition and
the Russian influence of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
“This wooden architecture is not just part of the city’s past,” Dina explained. “It’s a symbol of its resilience.The wooden structures are flexible; they sway with the earth, making them ideal for a city like Almaty, which is prone to earthquakes.”
She led me to Ascension Cathedral in the central park, one of the finest wooden structures from that era. Inaugurated in 1907, when the city was still under RussianTsarist rule, it was reputedly constructed without a single metal nail and remains one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world.This multi-coloured Russian Orthodox cathedral
resembled something from a fairy tale, with its gold-tipped spires and intricate detailing gleaming in the sunlight. It wouldn’t have looked out of place in Moscow’s Kremlin or beside St Petersburg’s Hermitage Palace.
Just a few minutes away, the Central Mosque, completed in 1999, testified to the religious diversity of a country where Islam, Christianity and remnants of the animist beliefs of the nomads still coexist.
“Almaty has always been a melting pot, especially during Soviet times, when intellectuals and dissidents from across the USSR were exiled here,” Dina said. This influx of people shaped Almaty’s cosmopolitan atmosphere, a vibe still felt today.
Town and country (this page; clockwise from top left) The traditional wooden architecture of Almaty; the city’s cathedral was reputedly built without using a single metal nail in a design created to weather the earthquakes that afflict the region, using braces to allow the building to sway with the tremors; a hefty plate of beshbarmak, the horse-based national dish; guide Dina cracks a smile; (opposite page; clockwise from top) the Valley of Castles is one of the most dramatic sections of the vast Charyn Canyon, with its red rock recalling the parks of Utah; the enduring majesty of Charyn Canyon National Park [both images]
Alamy
Almaty’s multiculturalism is best savoured through its culinary scene, spanning more than 2,000 restaurants and a diverse range of flavours. From traditional Kazakh nomad dishes to Russian classics, Uyghur specialties,Tatar staples and Korean delicacies, the city’s food reflects the blend of cultures that call Almaty home.Yet, despite this diversity, one thing remains constant: the centrality of meat in local cooking.
Beshbarmak, the national dish, is a perfect example of the country’s meat fixation. Made from boiled horse served over thin slices of dough, it highlights how horse meat, in particular, is woven into the fabric of Kazakh culinary tradition. It’s found in everything from burgers to stuffed noodles, making it a unique – and sometimes challenging – aspect of dining here for those unaccustomed to the sight.
Landscapes from around the world
It wasn’t long before the wilderness I’d seen in the distance lured me away from the city. Barely an hour from Almaty, the urban landscape gave way to the vast Yellow Steppe; however, my true destination lay further, as Dina and I ascended into the Tien Shan Mountains.
Here lay the entrance to Kolsay Lakes National Park, where the terrain transitions into the perfect alpine scene of towering peaks, dense pine forests and steep valleys. We soon arrived at Lower Kolsay Lake, and I felt as if I was gazing at a mini version of Canada’s Lake Louise, except with the added bonus of near solitude.
“I felt as if I was gazing at a mini version of Canada’s Lake Louise”
The lake stretched out like a mirror, its surface undisturbed, reflecting the towering, spruce-covered mountains standing sentinel along its shores.This is just one of the three main lakes in the area, but it is the only one that is easily accessed. The second requires a few hours’ hike, while the third is a challenge reserved only for experienced mountaineers.
The next day, we ventured to a completely different landscape, despite it being just an hour away. Charyn Canyon is often dubbed ‘Kazakhstan’s Grand Canyon’ and stands in stark contrast to the alpine forests of Kolsay. Here I was met with towering red cliffs and a gorge that plunges to around 300m deep at
Mountain gems (this page) The mirror-like waters of Lower Kolsay stretch for 400m and sink to around 80m at the deepest point. It is part of a trio of mountain lakes that line the slopes of Kolsay Lakes National Park, which is reached via the gateway village of Saty – the highest of these (Upper Kolsay) is found at an altitude of 2,800m; (opposite page) Kaindy Lake lies to the east of the Kolsay lakes and is known for the spectral-white trunks of the spruce trees that spear its surface, having been submerged when landslides caused the area to flood in 1911, creating a ghostly underwater forest
its lowest point and spans more than 150km. The canyon’s jagged faces, weathered by time, looked like fortresses crafted by giants.
The Valley of Castles, Charyn Canyon’s most famous feature, lived up to its name. Hiking along the canyon’s edge offered sweeping panoramas of rock formations sculpted by nature into turrets and towers, standing proudly against the endless steppe.
As the sun moved across the sky, the canyon’s vibrant colours came to life, shifting from fiery reds and oranges in the morning to deep purples and blues by afternoon. The silence here felt different from the serene quiet of Kolsay Lake; it was ancient, more profound, as though the rocks themselves whispered the stories of the nomads who once roamed these lands.
Before leaving the park, we visited nearby Moon Valley and Black Canyon.Though part of the same canyon system, these areas presented yet another dramatic shift in the landscape, one that is more reminiscent of Iceland’s Fjaðrárgljúfur, dominated by green hills and a powerful river cutting through the valley below.
My final stop was one of Kazakhstan’s most surreal natural wonders: Kaindy Lake. The journey there was an adventure in itself, as the unpaved road wound through the rugged foothills of the Tien Shan Mountains, each bend revealing new vistas of untouched wilderness. En route, we passed through several villages, where I was surprised to see yurts scattered amid the traditional houses. Dina explained that many young Kazakh families had begun embracing a partial return to the traditional ways of living, even if only for the summer.
Kaindy Lake, formed after an earthquake in 1911 triggered a landslide that dammed the valley, is one of the world’s most photogenic bodies of water. Its crystal-clear depths are surrounded by towering evergreens, but what makes it unique are the submerged trees, their skeletal trunks still protruding from the water like the spires of yurts reaching skyward.These ghostly remnants of a once-thriving forest stand as a haunting reminder of nature’s power, frozen in time.
As we began our journey back to Almaty, I remarked that Kaindy reminded me of a lake in the Austrian Alps. Dina, perhaps a little tired of my comparisons, corrected me with a smile: “But no other lake in the world has a submerged forest still visible like this.”
In truth, it’s hard not to draw comparisons here. So little of what I saw was familiar, and I was often left grabbing at similes to express my genuine astonishment at the diversity of people, faiths and geographies I had encountered during my brief week in the country.
As I took one last look at the Tien Shan Mountains fading into the distance, it became clear that Kazakhstan, with its vast and varied landscapes, had revealed only a fraction of itself.TheWorld Nomad Games offered a glimpse into its traditions, but this was just one thread in the fabric of one of the largest countries in the world.
The sheer scale of Kazakhstan mirrors the depth of the history found here, where a nomadic past goes hand in hand with rapid growth. The spirit of the land endures, carried by the same winds that once guided its nomads.Yet, even today, their journeys still echo through the vast plains, inviting ever deeper exploration.
Need to know
When to go
Year round, but try to avoid the summer heat of July and August and the piercing cold that arrives from December to March
Getting there & around
Air Astana (airastana.com) has the only daily direct flights to Almaty from London Heathrow (with a short stop in Aktau), as well as an extensive internal network that includes Astana. Flights to Almaty cost from £500 return and take 8 hours and 15 minutes. Kazakhstan is best explored with a guide and driver, as English is not yet widely spoken.
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Almaty produces 696 kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. To find one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ inspiration/sustainable-travel.
Visa & currency
Visa: Not required by UK, EU and US nationals. Currency: Kazakhstani tenge (KZT), around KZT638 to the UK£.
Where to stay
Almaty and Astana offer a plethora of good hotels; beyond these, local guesthouses may be your only options. For a full list, visit the country’s official travel website: kazakhstan.travel/en
The author travelled with Wild Frontiers (020 8741 7390; wildfrontierstravel.com), which offers a ten-day group tour, Across the Kazakh Steppe, that takes in Almaty, Astana, Charyn Canyon, Lake Kaindy and Turkestan from £2,695pp. Includes accommodation and most meals, guided excursions and transfers.
Astana
Almaty Kolsay Lakes NP
Charyn Canyon NP Kazakhstan
Russia Uzbekistan Kyrgyzstan
CELEBRATIONS
Your full guide to enjoying current cultural highlights in every corner of Germany
Schwerin Castle is now recognised by UNESCO
Influenced by its ancient history, shaped by modern events and inspired by its landscapes and traditions, Germany’s art, music and literary heritage is as diverse as its variety of beers. From the renowned music composers of the past to the innovative creatives of the present, every region celebrates its own cultural identities. With important anniversaries, new UNESCO sites, annual festivals and events, there have been plenty of cultural highlights to celebrate in every corner of Germany in 2024, with lots more to come in 2025...
Quedlinburg is celebrating 30 years of UNESCO recognition
North Germany
250 Years of Caspar
David Friedrich
Renowned German Romantic artist Caspar David Friedrich is considered the most influential German artist of his time and is well-known for his powerful and melancholy landscape paintings. He painted as he believed, that “artworks are the window to the soul”, and his works explored new ways of expression that are familiar and yet highly imaginative and emotional.
2024 marks 250 years since Friedrich’s birth in the city of Greifswald in northern Germany, which is the place to celebrate the artist’s life and career. His birth house is now the Caspar David Friedrich Centre – a museum and gallery that is putting on special events and exhibitions to celebrate the artist’s birthday.
Many of his paintings are based on real-life locations. The Chalk Cliffs on Rügen and Wanderer above the Sea of Fog are particularly revered as his most personal works, with a backdrop of some of Germany’s most beautiful landscapes. You can visit the island of Rügen in the Baltic Sea, a popular holiday spot that Friedrich visited on his own honeymoon back in 1818. Step into the scene of Chalk Cliffs on Rügen on the Königsstuhl and watch, as Friedrich depicts in the painting, the wild Baltic Sea crash and splash onto the white cliffs.
Celebrating a new UNESCO World Heritage Site
Close to the Hamburg Metropolitan region is the beautifully landscaped Schwerin Residence Ensemble, where a cluster of 30 preserved 19th-century palaces, churches, military barracks, residence buildings and even a railway station, was officially recognised as Germany’s 54th UNESCO Heritage Site at a ceremony in July 2024.
Built for the Grand Dukes of MecklenburgSchwerin, the architecturally elegant and diverse compound features a combination of Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Baroque, Neoclassical and Neo-Gothic styles.
Take the time to walk around the former Hanseatic town, following the red walking signage to admire the university, the river, the historical market square and various other landmarks that were significant to the painter’s life.
Head to Greifswald to visit the Caspar David Friedrich Centre
Miraculously surviving the Second World War without bomb damage, the majestic Schwerin Castle, a palace which is positioned on its own island on Lake Schwerin, takes centre stage. Surrounded by the expanse of the well-manicured garden, not only is it a museum but the castle is also an education centre as well as a seat of the state parliament of Mecklenburg–Western Pomerania. Take a self-guided tour of the palace’s interior and the museum to learn about the historical and cultural significance of the Schwerin Residence Ensemble and celebrate this great northern German heritage for yourself.
Contemporary culture
The cultural scene of the north has been known to be brave and innovative. The ancient Hanseatic culture of trade and
openness to new concepts and ideas continues to influence the lifestyle today, and artists enjoy the creative collaboration with nearby North Sea neighbours.
For live music lovers, the Deichbrand Festival on the North Sea will celebrate its 20th event in 2025, bringing in a diverse range of musical genres including emo, indie rock, hip hop and Nordic metal, with live concerts on the coast. It has been described as a mix between Glastonbury and Burning Man. The four-day camping event is held at the open spaces of Sea-Airport Cuxhaven/ Nordholz and is attended by some 100 bands, live acts and DJs.
Art lovers should head to Büdelsdorf for the NordArt international art exhibition.
In its 25th edition in 2024, NordArt is one of Europe’s biggest annual modern art exhibitions, curating multimedia works of 200 local and international artists each year at the exhibition space of Kunstwerk Carlshütte. The building was once an iron foundry and was the first industrial company in the duchies of Schleswig and Holstein, so is a monument worthy of a visit in itself.
Over in Rostock on the Baltic Sea, the city’s Art Hall was designed 60 years ago and is currently celebrating the 55th anniversary of its opening. This is one of northern Germany’s best galleries for contemporary art, with exhibitions of artists whose works questions the social and gender constructs of the modern day. ⊲
The tallest part of the chalk cliffs of Rügen is the Königsstuhl, which is more than 100 metres above sea level
Schwerin Castle is now recognised by UNESCO
Join in with the party at the Deichbrand Festival
NordArt is one of the largest annual contemporary art exhibitions in Europe
South Germany
Christmas in and around Munich Germany’s Lufthansa City Airlines will begin new services from Manchester and Birmingham airports to Munich in December 2024, giving more options to those wanting to enjoy Germany’s Christmas market scene.
The Christmas spirit is etched deep in German traditions and the country has some of the world’s oldest markets. South Germany hosts some of the most colourful and festive of the bunch that are filled with delightful music, beautiful trinkets, plenty of Glühwein and delicious local treats.
Visit Munich for the city’s original Christmas market at Marienplatz with its
Munich’s Marienplatz looks like the front of a Christmas card during December
25m-tall Christmas tree that will be adorned with 3,000 candles, and plenty of stalls for that special souvenir to take home.
backdrop of the iconic clock tower of the Town Hall, where live festive music will be performed from the balcony. As one of the more traditional Christmas markets, you’ll find some of the largest collections of nativity figurines to purchase, a whopping
Don’t miss the Krampus Parade, a 500-year-old tradition based on a folklore tale of a half-demon character who punishes children at Christmas time!
Another nearby festive destination worth visiting is the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt which is one of the country’s oldest and home to charming wooden booths that sell handmade decorations, gingerbread and spekulatius almond cookies.
Alternatively, the atmospheric markets of Füssen on the border of Austria are worth a couple of days’ detour. The town is the gateway to the fairytale castle of Neuschwanstein, the inspiration behind the setting of Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty.
Gingerbread hearts are an icon of Germany’s Christmas Markets
Commemorating Richard Strauss
Famous for his symphonic poems and operas, Richard Strauss was considered one of the great composers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 2024 commemorates the 75th anniversary of his death and radio stations, orchestras and theatres are putting on performances of Strauss’s work in his honour.
In the Bavarian town of GarmischPartenkirchen in particular, where he lived his final years, several concert days are being held to remember the maestro as part of a Richard Strauss Festival. There’s still time to attend some of the Richard Strauss Day
performances that are running until the end of 2024. The town is also holding other events including guided tours to follow Strauss’s last years around the city, visits to his home Strauss Villa and masterclasses of his works.
Two weeks of Autumn Dippemess in Frankfurt
Frankfurt, the annual traditional Autumn Dippemess folk festival opened for over two weeks for the first time in 2024, and will make a grand return in 2025. Dating back to the 14th century, the Dippemess
was once a market for potters, makers of stoneware and traders from nearby regions to come and sell their goods.
Originally called Maamess, this medieval fair with a humble origin soon attracted jugglers, acrobats and other performers to gather for attention.
Over time, this historic fair has evolved into a festival that still makes for a fun outing today.
Held in Ratsweg in eastern Frankfurt, you can peruse a wide variety of traditional market stalls including regional food stands, games stalls, handicrafts and selections of local gins.
For kids (both big and small), there is a selection of rollercoasters and a carousel.
Richard Strauss spent his final years in GarmischPartenkirchen
The Zugspitze is Germany’s highest mountain at 2,962 metres
The shopfronts of Garmisch-Partenkirchen are adorned with unique murals
East Germany
35 years since the fall of the Wall East Germany is having a big year, with several historical and cultural events coinciding with anniversaries. Perhaps the most important of these is the anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, the border between the Soviet-controlled East and the free West Germany between 1961 and 1989.
The 9th November 2024 marks the 35th anniversary of the day the Wall fell and the city will commemorate the fall of the Wall with official ceremonies and city-wide openair events, exhibitions and tours.
An array of historical and modern posters of protest will be displayed along the wall as part of an exhibition themed around freedom.
30th anniversary of Quedlinburg’s
UNESCO recognition
In 2024, Quedlinburg celebrates its 30th year since UNESCO recognised the town as a World Heritage Site. This former wealthy trading town and once capital of the East Franconian German Empire is known for its preserved timber-framed houses and Romanesque architecture. Quedlinburg has an important
heritage as it was the royal residence of the first Saxon German King, Henry I (876-936), whose tomb is in the Quedlinburg Abbey (Stiftskirche St Servatius). It was built between the 10th and 12th centuries and is well worth a visit, with its towers looming over the ancient town centre.
Look out for the many interesting statues and monuments dotted around the city that reveal stories about Quedlinburg. One example is the Coronation of Henry The First which stands in front of the Turnstrasse and humorously combines two legends about the king on his coronation day.
500 years of Auerbachs Keller in Leipzig
Historical cellars exist all over Germany but there are few as iconic as the Auerbachs Keller in Leipzig, which celebrates its 500th birthday next year. To mark the occasion, the cellar will host several special events throughout 2024 and 2025.
The history of the Keller dates back to 1525 when Dr Heinrich Stromer von Auerbach began to serve wine to students in the cellar of his house. It quickly became popular and it wasn’t long before the little drinking and dining spot became an institution in Leipzig. After several changes
The Berlin TV Tower has watched over the city for 55 years
Quedlinburg was first recognised by UNESCO 30 years ago
of hands, the cellar remains in its authentic setting, serving Saxon cuisine and pouring the best of German beers and wines.
55 years of the Berlin TV Tower
Legend has it that when the TV Tower was built by the government of the GDR (East Germany), it was made taller than the cross on the dome of the cathedral. Each time the sun shines, it casts a shadow of a cross which the locals have dubbed the ‘Pope’s Revenge’. This is just one of the many stories surrounding Berlin’s TV Tower, which turned 55 years old in 2024. Be sure to get to the viewing platform to soak up the panorama of the city and surrounds, or treat yourself to a meal at the revolving restaurant.
100 years of Nefertiti in Berlin
The bust of Nefertiti, the world-famous sculpture of the Egyptian Queen, was first presented to the public in Berlin in 1924. Since her arrival, she has been moved around to different rooms and museums. Finally, this year, after 100 years spent in the city, the bust will be given a permanent home and its own exhibition space in the North Dome Room of the Neues Museum.
This will be a part of the wider Ancient Egypt exhibition, which includes dazzling displays of some 2,500 artefacts which will be arranged for a comprehensive look at ancient Egypt and the associated ancient cultures of Sudan.
Chemnitz’s Theaterplatz impresses with its Opera House, St Peter’s Church and the King Albert Museum
Celebrating a new UNESCO World Heritage Site
You may not have heard of Herrnhut but this Moravian Brethren settlement dates back to 1722 and has this year been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List for its preservation of the traditional Moravian social and religious lifestyle and the style of its colonial architecture.
Herrnhut is the birthplace of the Moravian Church around the world and is a living heritage where visitors can experience the ways of the Moravian lifestyle first-hand. Visit the church hall and view the From Herrnhut Into the World exhibition to learn about the development of this community and the Watchwords. The Museum of Local History is an excellent extension to this experience, where rooms furnished in the style of the Biedermeier period provide a glimpse into the lives of the past. The museum’s Baroque garden is particularly beautiful in the summer when it is in full bloom.
A future European City of Culture
Nicknamed ‘City of Makers’ for its varied architecture and present-day designs, as well as for its entrepreneurial spirit, Chemnitz has been designated as a European Capital of Culture for 2025.
This former East German city has transformed factories, garages and unused open spaces into museums, galleries and lifestyle parks. Chemnitz’s architecture celebrates both the old and the new. Highlights include the Theatre Square and the surrounding 19th-century buildings including St Peter’s Church, the Opera House and museums. Also worth seeing is the Art Nouveau presentation around the Kaßberg district and the ‘Eastern Modernism’ style of the repurposed buildings from the former Soviet times.
In 2025, the city’s Begehungen Arts Festival will hold special events, inviting international artists and local citizens to discover these places, opening up spaces and new perspectives as part of the Capital of Culture celebrations.
People have been drinking and dining in Auerbachs Keller for 500 years
Dr Heinrich Stromer von Auerbach began to serve wine to students in the cellar of his house back in 1525
Cologne’s Fischmarkt offers fine examples of Gothic architecture
West Germany
Duisburg’s big cultural year
2024 is the year to celebrate Duisburg’s culture and heritage. The Wilhelm Lehmbruck Museum, one of the most important museums for modern sculpture, celebrated its 100th birthday this year. Visit to see a timeline of artwork stretching from the works of Wilhelm Lehmbruck (1881-1919) right up to today’s artists.
Many of the city’s other museums are also celebrating important birthdays, including the DKM Museum (15 years) and the
Museum of German Inland Navigation (50 years), which is housed in the building of a former Art Nouveau swimming pool.
Digging into Duisburg’s heritage is the steel industry, and the city still produces more steel than any other European city. Former ironworks site Landscape Park Duisburg-Nord has become a monument to the industry in Duisburg and is now a museum and leisure park celebrating 30 years of cultural transformation.
Travel on new tracks
Situated near the borders of Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium, Aachen is Germany’s westernmost city and has
over 2,000 years of history to explore. And a new three-country train route from Liège to Aachen via Maastricht (which can be combined with the Eurostar) is giving travellers more options to visit this historic city without having to fly.
Start at Aachen Cathedral, Germany’s first UNESCO Heritage Site, to see inside the former coronation church of the RomanGerman kings and the home of the country’s oldest boys choir. The Town Hall, standing on the site of a former royal palace and restored after WWII to its current glory, is also worthy of your attention.
In addition to the city’s historical significance, Aachen is also a spa town. The
Aachen Cathedral was a natural choice to be the first UNESCO World Heritage site in the country
Don’t forget to look up when visiting Aachen Cathedral
city’s healing thermal waters were once popular with the Celtic and Roman settlers. Today’s visitors can experience a soothing dip for themselves in the thermal waters at Elisenbrunnen.
However, this is not the only new train making its way across Germany’s tracks. A direct train option from Brussels to Cologne is now available as part of the new European Sleeper journey between Brussels and Venice, making it possible to combine a
few days on the Rhine before continuing on to further European adventures. Famous for its twin-spired medieval cathedral and its Christmas markets, Cologne is a great destination for those looking for history, culture and cuisine. The city has a good collection of museums spanning all kinds of interests. Highlights include the Museum Ludwig for modern art, the Farina Fragrance Museum to learn about one of the oldest perfume makers in the world, the Lindt Chocolate Museum and countless more.
From Cologne, take a day trip to Bonn, 30 minutes south by train, to visit Beethoven’s city. Coincide your journey with the annual month-long Beethovenfest, which runs in September, when the city becomes an openair festival with performances from local and international musicians.
Whether you visit Germany now or in 2025, there will be plenty worth celebrating.
Bonn’s Old Town Hall was built in the Rococo style
Cologne’s twin-spired cathedral is an icon of its skyline
Duisburg’s Inner Harbour is a transformed industrial area with museums, restaurants and offices
Duisburg’s Lehmbruck Museum is home to some of Wilhelm Lehmbruck’s most revered works
Discover the history of one of the world’s oldest perfume makers at the Farina Fragrance Museum
Shadows of
AL-ANDALUS
Slow travel has never been so fast! Join a train journey across Andalucía, where high-speed rail lines linking the region’s great sights reveal how the legacy of Islamic-era Spain lives on
Words Martin Symington
ÒWe are sitting in the centre of the greatest city of the medieval Islamic world after Constantinople,” pronounced a ravenhaired lady at the table next to mine.
My ears perked up. I was sat in a teteria –North African-style teahouse – in Córdoba, having stopped for a sticky date pastry.The lady (Yasmina), it transpired, was a guide at the neighbouring Mezquita de Córdoba, the giant mosque that was once the crown jewel of Al-Andalus, a part of the Iberian Peninsula that was once ruled by a succession of Caliphates, who held sway here for nearly eight centuries (711–1492 AD).
I already had an inkling of what my new friend meant.While threading the medina-like maze of plazas and alleyways in Córdoba’s Old Town, my nostrils had registered the
aromas of mint and incense. I’d seen bronze doors carved in Arabic script, and I’d spied a mihrab prayer niche in the wall of a Christian chapel that hinted at another life entirely.
The ‘Moors’, as the Arab and Amazigh (Berber) peoples who invaded the Iberian Peninsula are known, have left their imprint on everything in Andalucía, from architecture and music to food and language.Their Islamic culture gave the region its character, which has long struck me as remarkable given nowhere else feels so full-bloodedly Spanish. And yet it took a rail journey through the great cities of southern Spain – Seville, Córdoba and Granada – where the secrets of Al-Andalus are preserved, to make me see that these two things are often inherently connected.
“Spain has the second-largest highspeed rail network in the world”
It was a revelation made possible by an altogether more modern invasion that happened here 32 years ago, when the first stretch of Spain’s 4,000km of high-speed rail lines opened, connecting Seville to Madrid.Today, Spain has the second-largest high-speed rail network in the world (after China), making it easier for visitors to join the cultural dots across its 17 autonomous communities.
In addition to the services already running, train operator Iryo began high-speed-services from Madrid to Seville and Córdoba last year.There are now more ways than ever to explore the region at speed, even if you take it slowly in between. So, where better to start than the first capital of Al-Andalus, where Spain’s modern rail revolution also began?
Palimpsest Spain (this page; top to bottom) The Mezquita de Córdoba was built on the site of a church after being purchased by Abd Al-Rahman I, founder and first emir of the Emirate of Córdoba, in the late eighth century – ironically, a Christian cathedral would later be built within its walls 600 years later; Seville’s Justa train station now sees some 9 million rail passengers pass through it every year, having first opened for the inauguration of the Madrid–Seville high-speed rail line; (opposite page) Córdoba cathedral’s 54m-high bell tower was originally a minaret; (previous spread) Córdoba was the crown jewel of Al-Andalus
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BUILDING ON THE PAST
Of all Andalucía’s cities, Seville is perhaps the most closely wedded in my mind to exaggerated images of ‘Spanishness’, thanks to its toreadors, colourful festivals and flamenco dancers. On my first evening there, a costumed pageant was happening on Plaza de España, in which dark-haired young women with flowers behind their ears sashayed in polka-dot dresses while straightbacked young men in tight jackets and widebrimmed hats trotted by on horseback.
My hotel was in the tightly packed, car-free old town of Barrio Santa Cruz. A short stroll here revealed hidden patios behind wrought-iron gates, and tiled courtyards filled with potted lemon trees.The district is dominated by its triumphalist Catholic cathedral, built on the site of a 12th-century mosque whose minaret, the massive pink Giralda tower, still stands today.The difference is that this supreme monument to Islamic engineering is now crowned with a Christian cross and a belfry.
To reach the top, I followed a spiral of 34 long brick ramps, which the mosque’s muezzins once ascended on donkeys five times daily. From the pinnacle I gazed across the slow, pale-green river of Guadalquivir (a Spanish corruption of the Arabic wadi-al-kibir, or great valley). I could make out the glinting tiles of Triana district, where I would head later for tapas with a chilled Pedro Ximénez sherry soundtracked by the guitars and castanet-clacking of flamenco dancers, the impassioned Andalucían music rooted in Al-Andalus. As for the sight of the Plaza deToros de la Maestranza bullring and the moated Royal Tobacco Factory – now part of Seville University – they were enough to start me humming the Toreador song.
where ‘There is no God but Allah’ is inscribed in the overhanging roof.
As was becoming clear, in Andalucía the line between Islamic and Christian architecture is never clear cut; not when the conquering Spanish applied Islamic decorative motifs to their own architecture in the design style now known as Mudéjar, a word derived from the name given to the Muslims who remained following the reconquest.
By now, it was time to leave the city the way I’d arrived. At Seville’s Santa Justa station, I boarded the 11.38 AVE (Alta Velocidad Española) train calling at Córdoba.Within minutes we had accelerated almost silently to more than 300kph. Andalucía flicked by on fast-forward, as ridges crowned by blazing-white villages of cubic houses reminiscent of North Africa blurred into silvery olive groves that stretched to the horizons, all mingling with the occasional glint of the Guadalquivir.
“The line between Islamic and Christian architecture is never clear cut here”
This might have been a good time to ponder the influence of Al-Andalus on the blink-and-you’ll-miss-them structures ornamenting rural Andalucía. Certainly, I caught sight of minarets masquerading as church bell towers and umber-hued forts and watchtowers dating from the centuries of warfare between the Caliphate and reconquering Christian forces. But within just 48 minutes the train had arrived in Córdoba – that’s barely enough time to have lunch, let alone contemplate 1,300 years of Spanish history.
However, as my train glided into the city, I couldn’t shake the thought that this embodiment of 21st-century engineering had more than a little in common with the architectural feats of the Caliphate that had ruled here a millennium earlier.
Seville fell to the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula long before the demise of Al-Andalus in the late 15th century.The city finally surrendered to Ferdinand III in 1248, following a 16-month-long siege. It was then subsumed into the medieval Kingdom of Castile, becoming a prized asset.
One relic from this period is the city’s Alcázar, a dazzling royal palace that was built on the site of a Moorish citadel after the reconquest. But even here I found an example of how Spain’s Islamic era influenced what followed, evident in the marble-columned Patio de la Monteria,
THE SCREWBALL CATHEDRAL
Córdoba was the jewel of Al-Andalus and the capital of the ruling Umayyad dynasty for more than 300 years.Yet the medieval heart of this great city of the Islamic world – as my friendYasmina had described it – is known as the Judería, or the Jewish quarter. Back then, Jews and Christians were significant minorities within Muslim-ruled Spain, co-existing peacefully. Ambling Calle de Los Judios (Jewish Street), I passed a bronze statue of Maimonides, the revered 12th-century Jewish physician and philosopher of the Umayyad Caliphate.
Changing times (opposite page; clockwise from top) Seville’s canal-wrapped Plaza de España was built to host the Ibero-American exhibition of 1929, a bid by Spain to improve relations with its former colonies, who are represented in alcoves dotted around the square; Seville’s Alcázar is a wild blend of Christian and Mudéjar architecture; flamenco emerged in Andalucía and draws on its Moorish roots; (this page; top to bottom) Seville is home to the largest Gothic cathedral in the world; the gardens of the Alcázar are home to 20,000 plants; Seville’s 18th-century Royal Tobacco Factory building is now part of the city’s university
The quarter is also home to one of the most mesmerising edifices anywhere in the world: the Mezquita de Córdoba. My first impressions of it were of shadows waving across a forest of seemingly endless columns, each supporting red-and-cream-striped horseshoe arches.The shimmering light was creating illusions of shifting geometric patterns. I gaped at the ceiling mosaics, wandered the immense expanse below and paused, spellbound, before golden Mudéjar chapels and at the Mecca-facing mihrab, which had been inlaid with jewels.
The mosque was first built in 784 AD, though it was later expanded by a succession of Muslim rulers so that, at the zenith of the Supreme Caliphate of Córdoba, two centuries later, it could accommodate a staggering 40,000 worshippers. And that isn’t even the most jaw-dropping part. Plonked within the mosque itself is a fullsize 16th-century cathedral.
I stood among the Baroque gilt touches, choirs, transepts and bleeding-Christ statues gobsmacked at how this Catholic megachurch bludgeons its way up through the roof, as if unaware of its exquisite surroundings. From atop the bell tower (a former minaret), the scene below looked as if a spaceship had landed on a mosque.
To gain some perspective, I crossed the first-century Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir and watched the same minaret turn gold in a sunset haze. Utterly discordant though the mosque-cathedral is, I still found myself smiling at its originality. How could those 16th-century Catholics have planted their cathedral in the midst of an Islamic architectural masterpiece that they were otherwise so carefully preserving?
“Totally screwball,” I overheard one Australian tourist remark to another.
THE FINAL DAYS OF AL-ANDALUS
Another AVE train – this one known as a ‘Pato’, so-called because of its ducklike profile – swept me through a landscape of
rocky tufts surfing on waves of wheat fields and parched-brown earth.The sun picked out a village here, a crest there. Soon the dragon’s-back peaks of the Sierra Nevada hove into sight, signalling the approach of Granada. I reminded myself that while mighty Córdoba had fallen to reconquering Christian forces in 1236, the smaller Sultanate of Granada held on for two-and-a-half centuries longer.
It wasn’t until 1492, the year that Columbus sailed the ocean blue, that Granada, the the last Islamic stronghold on the Iberian Peninsula, fell, signalling the end of Al-Andalus. Catholic monarchs King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella had completed the Reconquista. And with them having already united the kingdoms of Aragon and Castile, this date is known across Spain as the year when the nation became recognisably itself.
My first surprise in Granada was that the city’s newest attraction was a museum on the Spanish Inquisition – an institution created in 1478 at the petition of Ferdinand and Isabella. Incongruously, the terrors retold here are housed in the beautiful Palacio de los Olvidados (Palace of the Forgotten) on the Darro riverbank. I roamed in a daze among the unspeakable instruments of torture used by Christians on Jews and Muslims after seven centuries of coexistence. ⊲
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Jewels of Al-Andalus (this page; clockwise from top) The mihrab – a niche in a mosque that indicates the qibla (direction to pray towards) – is one of the most richly decorated corners of the Mezquita de Córdoba and is wrapped by horseshoe arches and exquisite mosaics; the statue of the Jewish philosopher and physician Moses Maimonides; an interrogation chair and iron maiden [adjacent] from the Inquisition Museum in Seville’s Palacio de los Olvidados; (opposite page; top to bottom) Córdoba’s high-speed rail station; the candy-striped arches of the Mezquita de Córdoba are a mix of limestone and brick
Relics of the past (this page; clockwise from top left) The Albaicín quarter of Granada is an open invitation to lose yourself amid its alleyways and shops; the AVE service connecting Córdoba to Seville exceeds 300kph at top speed; the Alhambra survived not just the reconquest of Grenada in 1492, but the attentions of Holy Roman Emperor Carlos V, who built a Renaissance palace within its walls, and Napoleon’s retreating troops, who ransacked the complex in the early 19th century and even attempted to blow it up as they departed; (opposite page) the Palacios Nazaríes (Nasrid Palaces) are the Moorish heartbeat of the Alhambra Alamy
But even this could not lessen the thrill I experienced when later glimpsing Granada’s hilltop Alhambra for the first time.This russet, pink and gold Arabian Nights fantasy of a fort and palace still reigns over the city, framed against a wild mountain backdrop.This is surely the sight that Mexican artist Francisco Icaza had in mind when he exclaimed: “Nothing in life is worse than being born blind in Granada.”
True, these days the Alhambra teems with tourists. I puffed up the hill to endure a long queue before being carried away by the seduction of marble columns reflected in rippling pools of water and vaulted ceilings, pillared porticoes and the voluptuous excesses of its fountained courtyards. Nor were there any half measures in the pavilions, flower-filled terraces and gushing water of the palace’s Generalife gardens.
Benjamin Disraeli, another visitor bowled over by the Alhambra, reckoned it was “the most delicate and fantastic creation that sprang up on a summer night in a fairy tale”. But, as with any fairy tale, there is a twist. It was here that in 1492, Sultan Boabdil, ruler of the last Moorish dynasty on the Iberian Peninsula, surrendered to Ferdinand and Isabella, then fled for the Alpujarras mountains and on to North Africa.After that came the Inquisition.
Need to know
When to go
Summer can be very hot and busy, so avoid July and August. Spring and autumn are preferable, while winters are mild and often sunny. In Seville, it’s worth arriving for the Feria de Abril festival (two weeks after Easter), though book far in advance.
Getting there
Granada’s other main survivor from its Al-Andalus heyday is the Albaicín ‘Moorish Quarter’.This faces the Alhambra from across the Darro River valley, tumbling down
British Airways (ba.com), easyJet (easyjet.com) and Ryanair (ryanair.com) fly from London Gatwick and regional airports to Seville and Málaga (90 minutes by bus from Granada). Flights cost from about £38 return and take 2.5 hours. Rail travel from London to Seville requires changes in Paris and Barcelona; regional high-speed AVE trains run between Seville, Córdoba and Granada (renfe.com).
the hillside in a maze of alleyways. It is something akin to a Moroccan souk, complete with main thoroughfares lined with shops selling leather lampshades, hookah pipes and sacks of azafrán (both Spanish and Arabic for saffron).
“ In 1492, the ruler of the last Moorish dynasty on the Iberian Peninsula surrendered”
I spent my final evening hopping between touristy teterias, colourful divans and murmuring Arabic music. As I sated my appetite with tapas – which also has its roots in Al-Andalus – I pondered my train journey across modern-day Andalucía. The high-speed rail line that had whisked me into this ancient bastion of the Islamic era had shown me another way of seeing this land. It had made me realise that what we tend to think of as full-blooded Spanish often has echoes of far older times. Or to paraphrase Federico Lorca, Granada’s most celebrated poet: “We carry the Moors in us.”
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Seville produces 294kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. To find one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ inspiration/sustainable-travel.
Where to stay
Patios, tunnels and cobbled alleys connect the rooms of Las Casas de la Judería (lascasasdelajuderiasevilla.com; from £169pn B&B) in Seville. Llave de la Judería is a boutique hotel (cordobabesthotels.com; from £114pn B&B) converted from two townhouses in Córdoba. And lastly, Casa Morisca (hotelcasamorisca.com; from £134pn B&B) is a small hotel with a Moorish-style central courtyard on the edge of Granada’s Albaicín.
The trip
The author travelled with Inntravel (01653 617000; inntravel.co.uk) on its six-night A Trail of Three Cities itinerary. The tour costs from £915pp, including two nights B&B in each of the three hotels mentioned above, regional rail travel on AVE trains, and maps and notes for walking tours. International travel is not included.
Spain
Córdoba Granada Seville Andalucía Portugal France
NEW ZEALAND
IN EVERY SEASON EXPERIENCE
Whether stargazing in autumn, whale watching in winter, hiking in spring or dining al fresco in summer, every season in New Zealand has its perks and adventures…
The Land of the Long White Cloud sounds almost ethereal, doesn’t it? But New Zealand (or Aotearoa in Māori) more than lives up to its mystical name. Just one glimpse of its otherworldly landscapes only adds to the myths. From the mysterious Moeraki Boulders (pictured left) to the famous Mount Ngauruhoe (aka Mount Doom in Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings films), to the soaring peaks and skyscraper-sized waterfalls of Milford Sound, which doubled as a distant planet in the 2017 movie Alien: Covenant, there is plenty here that catches the eye.
Then there’s the wildlife. Visitors are drawn to New Zealand for the humpbacks, dolphins and southern right whales that cruise the coastline, not to mention the avifauna. Highlights include the flightless (if elusive) kiwi and the bellbird – its melodies once described as “small bells exquisitely tuned” by Captain Cook. As for the vino, few destinations are better known for their wine-making prowess, especially when it comes to those rich, fruity and full-bodied Marlborough sauvignons. While the country’s big sights are popular during the summer months (December–February), New Zealand is a year-round destination. Indeed, sometimes it takes some rain (we’re looking at you, Fiordlands) or snow to bring those landscapes to life.
Winter is excellent for exploring the white slopes, while the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn promise bountiful blooms and rich autumnal colours respectively. Not only that, but visiting outside of the peak months brings a wealth of benefits, from fewer crowds to more affordable accommodation, experiences and car or camper hire. Here’s how to make the most of New Zealand’s diverse seasons.
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
Routes from the UK are typically via the east (Singapore and the Middle East) or west (Los Angeles), flying into Auckland on the North Island, or Christchurch on the South. Fly between islands by plane or take the Interislander ferry. Hiring a car or campervan is an easy way to explore.
When to go
New Zealand is a year round destination, dependent on what you’re looking for. Spring stretches from September to November, with mild weather (10–20°C) and abundant opportunities to admire
the fresh blooms and newborn lambs. In summer (December–February), you’ll find temperatures hovering between 20°C and 25°C, ideal conditions for water sports and tramping (hiking). The autumn months of March, April and May are a lovely time to visit, thanks to sunny days (17–21°C), thinner crowds and golden leaves. And while the mercury plummets in winter (June–August), don’t write it off. You’ll be able to search for migrating humpback whales, try local snow sports and take advantage of more budget-friendly fares. Just keep in mind that some areas (such as around Queenstown) may require more planning in winter, especially if embarking on a self-drive adventure and having to use snow chains.
Māori customs and the Tiaki Promise
Traditional Māori customs remain a huge part of everyday life in New Zealand. Manaakitanga (showing respect) is about welcoming guests and providing great hospitality, something New Zealanders pride themselves on, and visitors will experience. The Tiaki Promise extends this attitude to the land too. Locals and visitors alike are encouraged to foster a connection to the Earth, respecting its importance as a treasure for current and future generations. Lastly, both ideals tie into the idea of whānau, where the people of New Zealand view visitors as extended family, welcoming them to share in the majesty of their culture and landscapes.
Try the Tongariro Alpine Crossing for a day hike that takes you through New Zealand’s oldest national park
Mitre Peak stands 1,692m above Milford Sound
SPRING
Warmer days and nights await during New Zealand’s springtime, when there are abundant opportunities for adventure. Crisp sunshine and showers make this a fine time for being around the water. Make the most of the full rivers and go rafting, or cruise the Fiordlands just as waterfall season ramps up. Thanks to the snow melt, Lady Bowen and Stirling Falls promise a real show.
On Audley’s Classic New Zealand itinerary, you can get front-row seats to nature at its grandest as you explore Milford Sound in search of cascades. The trip spans 30 days across the North and South Islands, and it also includes a ride on the scenic TranzAlpine train, as well as time spent searching for breeding sperm whales in Kaikōura.
Spring is ideal for walking in New Zealand – temperatures aren’t too hot and the stillsnowy peaks make for an excellent backdrop. Of the country’s world-famous trails and Great Walks, some of the most enticing are the Routeburn Track (South Island) and Tongariro Alpine Crossing (North Island). And while you won’t get them to yourself, you’ll find far fewer companions on these trails in spring.
The season ushers in lambs in the fields, baby fur seals on the Fiordland coast and the chance to spot penguins coming ashore to nest. For more wildlife encounters, a night tour of Zealandia – encompassing what was formerly the Karori Wildlife Sanctuary – is a must. After dark, this haven truly comes alive: think glistening glow-worms, beguiling
evening birdsong and the chance to spot some of the 150 or so kiwi birds that call Zealandia home. This mostly nocturnal mascot emerges from its burrow when night falls to patrol its territory and forage for insects, seeds and fruit.
Spring is a delightful time to visit New Zealand, with fresh mornings and longer days ensuring you get as much out of each adventure as possible, nature in full bloom, and blissfully quiet roads and hotels.
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Feel the rush (this page; clockwise from this) Visit New Zealand in spring to see the mighty Lady Bowen Falls at its fullest; look out for fur seals on the Kaikōura peninsula; brave the rapids in Rotorua; kiwi birds are endemic to New Zealand
SUMMER
New Zealand shines bright in summer. The longer, brighter and sunnier days make outdoorsy exploits – from hiking to biking –a joy. On the South Island, routes such as the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, with its sweeping, swirling stretches of sand, are perfect for trampers of all levels at this time of year. And don’t miss out on the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park; its breathtaking 53.5km trail is much sought after, so make sure you book in advance.
Be sure to try kayaking and snorkelling too, particularly around the Bay of Islands on the North Island. Over in the south, you can join wildlife cruises from Kaikōura in search of sperm whales and dolphins – you can even swim with the latter.
This is also an excellent time of year to indulge in New Zealand’s al-fresco culinary scene. Stay in The Rees Hotel – committed to sustainability, reducing waste and promoting Māori culture and language – which can be booked with Audley, and use it as your base for sampling craft beer in Queenstown.
The South Island is also home to an abundance of farm-to-table eateries as well as the Marlborough Food & Wine Festival, held in February. And if you’re after culture, head to capital Wellington for its Fringe Festival (Feb–Mar), which showcases the country’s best music, comedy and theatre.
Sports fans will be drawn to World Rugby Sevens in January and February, while those after a deeper dive into Māori culture should
Sacred lands (this page; clockwise from this) The Waitangi Treaty Grounds offers insightful cultural performances and tours; Tinline Bay makes for a great pit stop along the Abel Tasman Coast Track which spans 51km; stop off mid-hike for a kayak in Totaranui Bay; summer is great for exploring on two wheels
plan their visit for Waitangi Day, which marks the signing of New Zealand’s founding treaty on 6 February 1840 – at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in the Bay of Islands. Even if you don’t visit on the day itself, the grounds are open year-round. The on-site museum offers a clear eye on the historic mistreatment of the Māori by the Europeans, as well as the protest movement that sought to redress these injustices. Stay at the nearby Allegra House to enjoy views across the islands.
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AUTUMN
Head to New Zealand in autumn to see the red, gold and orange foliage contrasting with the green vineyards and deep-blue waters.
As the leaves crispen, so too does the air – and with that, a deluge of clear-sky opportunities present themselves in a country where the Milky Way is visible across 95.6% of the land. Celestial wonders are found in Wellington’s Carter Observatory, Tongariro National Park, and on Stewart Island, with the keenest of stargazers heading to Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. Not only is this one of the largest dark sky reserves on Earth, it’s also home to Tekapo Stargazing – the country’s only hot spring-astronomy combo.
As the peak summer season comes to a close, the amount of hikers on the trails eases
off. Embark on an Audley tour of the Hollyford Track in the South Island’s Fiordlands. This moderate, three-day valley walk is suitable for hikers with decent fitness levels and promises mirror lakes, waterfalls and sand dunes, all flanked by the snow-dusted Darran Mountains.
March, April and May offers fine wildlife spotting, too, especially if you’re seeking out penguins, albatrosses, sea lions and fur seals. Join Audley’s Waipoua Forest Twilight Encounter trip and you’ll not only see birdlife such as kiwi, tui and kōtare kingfisher (the only kingfisher species that breeds in New Zealand), but you’ll find the largest remaining group of kauri trees in New Zealand. These are thought to be over 4,000 years old and are entwined with Māori
culture. Go with an Indigenous guide to hear all about why these trees are so important. Wine connoisseurs will be more than happy settling into the vineyards of the often overlooked North Island, which offers abundant alternatives to the South – and typically with warmer weather conditions too. In fact, Auckland is one of the country’s oldest wine regions, while the hills of Matakana benefit from a subtropical climate – even come autumn – making it the perfect spot for tours and tastings aplenty.
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Sky full of stars (this page; clockwise from this)
The Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve is 4,367 sq km; cross the Hollyford River in Fiordland National Park; the yellow-eyed penguin is endemic to New Zealand; Waipoua Kauri Forest is home to giant kauri trees
WINTER
If cosying up with a flat white or hitting the slopes amid postcard-worthy landscapes is your idea of the perfect escape, then head for New Zealand in winter.
Adventure seekers will love the snowy wonderland that awaits in the South Island. Queenstown offers skiing, ice skating and snowmobiling, while Franz and Fox Glaciers are ripe for exploration at this time of year. The crowds are fewer, colder temperatures mean ice caves and routes are more stable, and the skies are bright-blue, crisp and fresh, making it the perfect time for glacier walks or helicopter flightseeing.
Head for the coast to spot humpbacks, southern right and pilot whales on an Audley whale-watching tour from Kaikōura. These
Make a splash (this page; top to bottom from this) Humpbacks flock to Kaikōura in winter; soak up views of Mount Cook from the Hooker Valley glacier lake; explore Te Papa, New Zealand’s national museum; Franz Joseph Glacier is accessible via heli-hike
creatures are also easier to spot in winter, as they venture closer to the coastline to feed and are more likely to breach and jump.
Seafood lovers can make the most of the blue cod, which is abundant in the waters around southern New Zealand in the winter. Take advantage by tasting it fresh in restaurants along the coast.
For laid-back vibes, travellers will find plenty to do in the North. Napier boasts many wineries, restaurants, bars, cafés and boutique shops, as well as some admirable Art Deco architecture. Audley’s New Zealand specialists recommend the Cobden Garden Homestay when visiting, as it’s just a 10-minute walk from the heart of Napier. It also prioritises sustainability and offers
eco-friendly products and complimentary wine tastings with your host.
Wellington also has plenty of enviable indoor pursuits to choose from. Discover the Weta Cave and Workshop, showcasing some of the most memorable props and effects used in the The Lord of the Rings films. Visit the national Te Papa Museum for insights into the country’s history and culture, and why not catch a movie at the iconic Roxy Cinema? This is Wellywood after all.
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The water of life The water of life
As the cognac houses and wineries of south-west France increasingly open their doors to the public, a trip to Bordeaux and Cognac reveals the history behind our favourite tipples
Words Juliet Rix
Bordeaux and Cognac. Across the globe, these names conjure images – and maybe tastes –of rich vin rouge and golden spirit. Few will immediately think of the historic towns in south-western France after which these drinks are named. But the two remain inextricably linked, and a visit to the region brings them deliciously together in a haze of creamy stone cities and lines of green vines, ancient monuments and modern museums, global brands and small family makers.
The relationship between this part of France and alcohol goes way back. Rémy Martin might be celebrating its 300th anniversary this year, but it’s not nearly the oldest of the cognac houses.And even those venerable producers are mere striplings when compared with the area’s history of wine production, which probably began with the Romans making vinum in Burdigala (Bordeaux).
Fittingly, it was here, in France’s UNESCO-listed ‘City of Wine’, where I began my journey. Bordeaux’s historic heart, built from local limestone, glowed as if washed in sweet Sauternes. My eye was caught by the grandeur of the merchants’ houses lining the crescent curve of the Garonne River (which gives the city its ‘Port of the Moon’ moniker).This was once the busiest port in the world after London, and for centuries it was also the only route to market for the region’s wine.
Today, the 18th-century Place de la Bourse – an iconic sight when it was built – is once again the most admired spot in the city.The glistening, Instagram-friendly reflection of its palatial buildings in the 21st-century Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror) draws visitors aplenty. I, however, chose to leave them behind, walking through cobbled streets and elegant squares until I came to the Gothic Cathedral of St André.
It was here that the 15-year-old Eleanor of Aquitaine was wed to the future King Louis VII in 1137, an early milestone in a notable life. Having ticked off Queen of France, she later married Henry Duke of Normandy, who then acceded to the English throne as Henry II, making her Queen of England. Loyal to her hometown, Eleanor awarded Bordeaux a monopoly on wine imports to her new kingdom, beginning a special relationship that (with a few bumps) continues to this day.
and long, low chais (above-ground cellars). You can see inside one of them – the former residence of Louis XV’s royal wine broker –at the BordeauxWine andTrade Museum.
At 89 Quai des Chartrons (now the US consulate), there are more ghostly reminders of the area’s wine-trading past. I paused at the front to look at a small relief of Thomas Jefferson.
“Bordeaux’s Fête le Vin is the largest wine fair in France”
The British were not only key consumers of wine, but in due course also became makers and traders (you may still notice Anglo names on Bordeaux wine labels). Upriver, in the Chartrons district, merchants – first Dutch, then British and Irish – built stylish homes that were more than residences. Behind their fashionable frontages lay working wineries
The American ambassador to France and president-to-be was here in the 1780s “for his health”.
A passionate oenophile, Jefferson had planted vines in the US and was trying to make his own wine; it proved an enterprise less successful than politics. Heading down a passageway at the side of the building, I found echoes of the past on the limestone wall: circles left by the ends of barrels that were stacked here before being rolled to waiting ships. It’s a history that still resonates today.
ALL THE FUN OF THE FAIR
The city’s past is played out on vast screens at the uber-modern Cité duVin museum, on the banks of the Garonne. Its tower swirls like wine in a glass, while the multi-media galleries inside transport visitors across the world of viticulture. I ended my tour with a glass of red on the roof, looking right along the river to the orangey arches of the 1822 Pont St Pierre – which is gorgeously floodlit at night.
In the distance, the masts of tall ships rose like signposts from the past, as if still awaiting a hull full of wine.Three of these spectacular vessels visit each year for the Bordeaux Fête le Vin, the largest wine fair in France. I’d arrived just as it was kicking into gear.
Wooden stalls ranged across a kilometre of the riverfront. So, with my festival pass in hand (which included 11+ tastings), I took a gustatory wander through some of Bordeaux’s six major wine regions, 65 appellations and thousands of winemakers, from Saint-Émilion to Sauternes. And as the sky darkened, I turned my eyes upward for the drone show, to see lights form and reform into falling vine leaves, pouring bottles and emptying glasses.
This festival is paradise for the viti-curious. Often, the person filling your glass is the producer themself – a growing number of whom are women. It was here I met Sabine Silvestrini of Château Chéreau, who told me of the difficulties the region’s winemakers face.
“It’s a challenging time, with consumers drinking less red wine and climate change bringing more extreme and unpredictable weather,” she explained.
Indeed, some 75% of the region’s wineries are trying to reduce their carbon footprint;
A quick tipple (clockwise from top left) The Latitude20 wine cellar at the Cité du Vin contains 14,000-plus bottles of wine from 70 countries; beyond its cellar, the Cité du Vin – the world’s largest wine museum – offers a chance to learn about the region’s terrior; the Cathedral of St André saw a teenage Eleanor of Aquitaine marry the future king of France; the Fête le Vin is the biggest wine fair in France; the wine of Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker; the Pont de Pierre spans the Garonne; (opposite page) the Fountain of Three Graces in Bordeaux’s Place de la Bourse; (previous spread) the Miroir d’eau draws plenty of visitors
Drinking to the future! (above) The Cité du Vin’s metallic curved structure is supported by internal wooden ribs, like those of a wine barrel; (opposite page; clockwise from top left) the coat of arms of Château Ferriere; Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker dates back to the late-16th century, when the estate was created by an advisor to the Bordeaux parliament; in 2010, the estate invested in a new fermentation cellar with French-oak tanks; the endless vineyards of Cognac
even the fair boasts of its water-refill points, its recycling of everything from paper to corks, and its ban on single-use plastic. Sabine also told me that the tough times meant that many wineries are now opening to visitors, offering new experiences to travellers.
DISTANT NEIGHBOURS
With Sabine’s words in mind, I headed to Médoc and was soon surrounded by vines. Many were dotted with pink and red roses, like jewels adorning a sea of green. Originally placed here as colourful ‘canaries in the coal mine’ to monitor mildew attacking the grapes, the warnings proved too late and the flowers are now merely decorative.
attributes. Both were female-led, manually harvested, organic Grand Cru vineyards, yet there the similarity ended.
“Some 75% of the region’s wineries are now trying to reduce their carbon footprint”
Château Ferriere, with its simple château building, is unobtrusive and conventional in appearance.Yet that facade belies the innovations going on here.This winery is wholly biodynamic – it even makes its own fertiliser by burying manure in a cow’s horn for six months. Tasting the wines in their smart roadside shop, I found them complex and minerally, with fruit notes and powerful tannins. In short: they were characteristically Médoc.
intriguing ‘Scented Tales’ smelling activity revealed how small variations in place, variety and process can lead to diversity in wines of apparently similar origin.Their single wine, quite unlike any of their neighbour’s, turned out to be a full-bodied, fruity red that slipped silkily down with concerning ease.
THE ANGEL’S SHARE
Passing château after château, I arrived in the pretty village of Margaux, one of Médoc’s best known appellations.You might think that one winery looks much like another, but the pair I visited here, separated by just 250m (so with near-identical terroir), were as different as they could be, even though they had similar
Up the road, at Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker, a turreted storybook manor house lords it over the vines. But this house no longer belongs to the winemakers; instead, the winery buildings are of 21st-century design, merging local traditions with touches of Asia – silvery dragon scales, rounded moon doors – that reference the owner’s dual heritage.
My next tasting – a couple of short train rides away – was rather stronger. In the 16th century, Dutch merchants found that the wine they shipped from here to the Netherlands often arrived spoiled, so they started distilling it into eau de vie (a colourless brandy); they called this brandewijn (burnt wine), or brandy. It was not long before they began to distil it twice, concentrating the liquor so that it took up less space in transit.Thus, the spirit cognac was born. Although the process has undoubtedly matured, it is still double-distilled, aged in oak barrels and must come from white grapes sourced from five areas around the town of Cognac – my next stop.
For wealthy American and Chinese visitors, this tiny, unremarkable French town can be a bit of a let-down. I can understand why, if you’ve come seeking the luxurious source
During the tour of its vineyards, I learnt about the different grapes used, while an ⊲
Alamy; Juliet Rix
Ripe for the harvest (clockwise from top left) Tending the grapes at Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker; Thomas Landreau lays out his many generations of cognacs; the Remy Martin e-bike tour takes you out into the countryside and vineyards around Cognac; cognac barrels are made the old way at the Hennessy cooperage; an e-scooter tour of cognac-producer Thomas Landreau’s vineyard with his wife, Marian; the barrels of the great cognac houses are stored away from the town, in case they should ever catch fire; one of many historical windmills scattering the Cognac region; the elegant, if simple, Château Ferriere
of your £3,380-a-bottle beverage, but I was far from disappointed. I enjoyed wandering its slightly crumbling limestone streets, among which are hidden the estates of three of the four big cognac houses: Martell (the oldest, founded in 1715), Rémy Martin and Hennessy – Courvoisier lies in nearby Jarnac. Each of these now offer a range of visits.
The sweet smell of fresh-cut wood welcomed me into Hennessy’s cooperage, which is newly opened to the public. It stands on the scenic Charente river, a historic waterway that, like Bordeaux’s Garonne, leads to the Atlantic and overseas markets. Here, the largest cognac house constructs and repairs some of the halfa-million barrels that hold its spirit, using woodworking methods older even than the neighbouring Tours St-Jacques, the city’s last surviving medieval gateway (under restoration and soon to open to the public).
I watched transfixed as cooper Jean-Baptiste skilfully fitted staves into a metal ring before placing this stiff skirt over an open fire. Flames glimmered between the planks as he wet the wood and tightened, wet and tightened, slowly bending the wood until he could slip on the lower ring. He then carefully ‘toasted’ the inner surface, causing a rich burnt-wood aroma to waft across the workshop; one that would soon infuse the cognac.
• Cognac
Spain
France
• Bordeaux
Luxembourg Switzerland Italy
Need to know
When to go
Bordeaux’s Fête le Vin (bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com) takes place on 19–22 June 2025. Look out too for the Cognac Blues Passions jazz festival in July.
a century in the barrel (unlike wine, cognac stops ageing once bottled).
“These two are mine; these are my father’s, my grandfather’s and my great-grandfather’s,” said Thomas. In one sense, he told me, nothing has changed; in another, everything has: “They are all cognac, but this was made entirely by hand using wood fires… this with a tractor and gas… and this with a computer.”
“About 98% of France’s cognac is exported – the French prefer whiskey”
In his cellar,Thomas showed me his barrels – some were his own, others were destined for Courvoisier and Rémy Martin. Only his are likely to be drunk locally; about 98% of France’s cognac is exported, because the French prefer whiskey.
Jumping into a Hennessy electric boat, I took a peaceful mini-cruise across the river to visit the house’s exhibition halls and VR experience. I was then led into the cellar to stand among real barrels, the smell of their liquor lusciously overwhelming.This vapour, known as the ‘angel’s share’, escapes during the ageing process.As such, large cellars have been banished from town due to the fire risk.
CAN’T KNOCK THE HUSTLE
Most of Hennessy’s spirit – as with all the big cognac houses – is not made in the town; it’s made by the 1,600 small producers spread across the region. One such producer is Thomas Landreau, whom I visited at the rural vineyard-distillery where his family has been making cognac for six generations.
After bouncing along the grassy fringes of his vineyards on an electric scooter, examining the damage wrought by the latest unseasonal storm, I stood beneath a red copper still with six bottles lined up in front of me.These contained spirits that ranged in colour from light honey to a dark golden syrup. They reflected the age of each spirit, from three years to more than
Besides China, a lot goes to the US, with the popularity of cognac having skyrocketed after name-checks in hip-hop lyrics – led by Jay-Z’s “sipping Rémy on the rocks” line from 1996’s ‘Can’t Knock the Hustle’. It’s a connection, I admit, that is a culture clash with the rarefied atmosphere of Remy’s historic house.This has been restored and reopened in time for its 300th anniversary, and it was my final stop.
I browsed through Rémy Martin’s new exhibition, which ended with a colourful audiovisual display projected across its 100-year-old tanks.These stood amid ironwork created by students of Gustav Eiffel (of Paris tower fame). My favourite tour, though, involved a bucolic e-bike ride, on which I stopped at a picturesque renovated windmill (there are many here) and the impressive 5,000-year-old Dolmen de SaintFort-sur-Né, riding through vistas of vines that dripped with grapes full of promise.
My trip was over, but the next time I ease open a bottle of vin rouge or golden spirit, my glass will be swirling with more than just liquid.There will be memories of facades and flowing rivers, of cavernous cathedrals and verdant vineyards, and of Eleanor, Jefferson, Sabine andThomas – all in a single sip.
Getting there & around
Take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris (1.5 hours; from £39 one way; eurostar.com), then a TGV from Montparnasse station to Bordeaux (2 hours; from £20; sncf-voyageurs.com). From there, trains to Cognac run via Angoulême (2 hours).
Where to stay
In Cognac, La Nauve (almae-collection.com; from £292pn B&B) is a former cognac house with lovely grounds, while Chambre d’Hotes Pladuc (domainedepladuc.fr; from £80pn B&B) is a former distillery run by a Réunion couple, who also offer cooking classes. In Bordeaux, Marty (hilton.com; from £123pn B&B) is well placed in the city.
Wine & Cognac
In Bordeaux, you can download the city’s Wine Walk for free (bordeaux-tourism.co.uk). Bar à Vin (baravin.bordeaux.com) has a large list of wines by the glass at reasonable prices, while the Bordeaux Wine School (ecoleduvindebordeaux.com) runs workshops in the same building. The Wine and Trade Museum (museeduvinbordeaux. com) has cheap tastings, and the Cité du Vin museum (laciteduvin. com) sells 800 different wines.
In Médoc, take tours of Chateau Marquis d’Alesme Becker (from £54; marquisdalesme.wine) and Château Ferriere (from £21; gc-lurton-estates.com).
In Cognac, Rémy Martin (from £17; remymartin.com) and Hennessy (from £24; hennessy. com) both run tours. For the full range, Cognathèque has more than 500 different cognacs for sale (shop.cognatheque.com).
Further reading & information
Visit bordeaux-tourism.co.uk, destination-cognac.com and explore-cognac.com
CARVE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE
IN QATAR
From the heart of the desert to its sparkling coastline, Qatar is ready made for adventure
Step beyond the cardamom-scented souks and futuristic museums of Doha to uncover another side of Qatar. From its wind-sculpted desert dunes to its white-sand beaches, Qatar’s natural landscapes are a haven for adventure seekers. Whether you want to turn up the adrenaline or simply kick back and enjoy the views, there’s an outdoor activity for all.
HAVE A QATARI ADVENTURE…
…in the desert
Did you know sand dunes could sing? A collection of 60-metre-high dunes just beyond the fringe of Doha’s urban sprawl emit a surreal low humming sound when walking or sliding on them. Easily accessed by hire car, Qatar’s ‘singing dunes’ need to be heard to be believed.
Or leave the driving to a local expert on an exhilarating 4WD dune bashing tour to Khor Al Adaid, where Qatar’s golden dunes spill into the aquamarine waters of a vast tidal embayment also known as the Inland Sea. Make an evening of it and enjoy a traditional Arabic feast served Bedouin-style on the dunes as the sun sets in a blaze of tangerine hues. Qatar’s sealed roads end at the edge of its magnificent dune landscape stretching southward from Sealine Beach in Mesaieed, just under an hour’s drive south of Doha. Camel rides and quad bike tours are hosted in the dunes rising up behind the beach; these activities can be combined with most desert tours.
…along the coast Surrounded by the warm waters of the Arabian Gulf, Qatar offers aquatic activities aplenty. Take
Golden curves (this page; clockwise from top left) Qatar plays host to vivid Gulf sunsets, like here at the Inland Sea; the lofty dunes of the Inland Sea offer the perfect vantage point for desert vistas; to get your heart pumping, dune bashing is a thrilling way to explore the Qatari desert
a dip at one of Doha’s protected beaches, hire a car and find your own perfect stretch of sand, or get your adrenaline pumping with water sports including parasailing and wakeboarding. Sign up for kitesurfing courses at Fuwairit Kite Beach, an hour’s drive north of Doha, or kayak the idyllic cyan waters threading the Al Thakira Mangroves, a short hop north of Doha.
Scuba diving is also possible in Qatar, with its three main sites clustered off Sealine Beach. These include GMC Reef, an artificial reef where you might spot angelfish, batfish, grouper, sergeant major fish and small rays. The Dooba barge wreck nearby is frequented by hawksbill turtles, while the manmade Club Reef consists of an assortment of sunken objects, including monster tyres, bicycles, metal pipes, concrete blocks and reef balls,
which create a habitat for batfish, crabs, cuttlefish, rays and other marine critters.
Prefer to stay dry? Watch Doha’s skyline sparkle aboard a traditional dhow boat cruise on Doha Bay, or sample the country’s fresh seafood, trying popular traditional dishes like muhammar or baranyoosh (rice with grilled or fried fish).
…meeting its wildlife
You’ll be a lucky visitor to spot Qatar’s national animal, the mighty Arabian oryx, in the wild. An easier place to admire these long-horned antelopes is at the Al-Maha Sanctuary (also called the Arabian Oryx Sanctuary), a 40-minute drive northwest from Doha.
More of a twitcher? Grab your binoculars and make for Al Karaana Lagoon. Once a dumping ground for industrial wastewater, this artificial lagoon an hour’s drive southwest of Doha has been transformed into a thriving desert oasis frequented by migratory birds including greater
Past and present (this page; clockwise from top left) Al Zubarah Fort is Qatar’s largest archaeological site; East-West/ West-East is one of many imaginative outdoor art installations dotted around the country; see clues about Qatar’s ancient past with Al Jassasiya’s rock carvings; Al Thakira’s mangroves are a birdwatching hotspot; the oryx is Qatar’s national animal
flamingos, which flock here between November and April. Other avian species to look out for include cormorants, egrets, harriers, herons, owls, stilts and sandpipers.
Qatar is also a haven for marine life including dugongs, dolphins, whale sharks and turtles. If you find yourself at Fuwairit Beach during June and July, keep an eye out for hawksbill turtle hatchlings emerging from their nests. Qatar Museums runs family-friendly hatchling viewing tours during the season; check the website for details.
…doing something surprising
Qatar is renowned for its public art, which adventurous travellers can also find hidden in its sandy desert. Take a mini road trip west of Doha to the Zekreet Peninsula, where the four enormous steel plates comprising US artist Richard Serra’s astonishing East-West/West-East sculpture rise up from the caramel landscape. Or head north to Al Zubarah to admire the collection of circular shelters and rings forming Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson’s Shadows Travelling on the Sea of the Day, which isn’t as random as it may seem.
Al Zubarah is also home to Qatar’s largest archaeological site, where raised boardwalks lead visitors through the ruins of Al Zubarah, a late 18th-century pearling centre abandoned in the early 1900s. On the edge of the site lies the impressive 1938 Al Zubarah Fort, which now houses a small museum.
Another intriguing historic site lies just inland from Fuwairit Beach. Comprising a total of 874 petroglyphs, the mysterious Al Jassasiya Rock Carvings feature various shapes including rosettes, fish, ostriches and cup marks, with the oldest carvings thought to date from Neolithic times.
Will Gray
The List
Step into a world of rich traditions and ancient knowledge by exploring 50 unforgettable experiences crafted by Indigenous communities. These immersive encounters invite you to encounter diverse cultures and landscapes while supporting a more thoughtful and sustainable approach to travel…
In the ever-evolving world of travel, few movements have captured our attention and ignited our passion like the rise of Indigenous tourism. This growing sector is about far more than just visiting breathtaking destinations or ticking off landmarks from a bucket list. It’s about connecting with the very soul of a place through its First Nations, their traditions and the unique stories that have shaped their cultures for millennia.
At Wanderlust, we’ve long believed in the power of travel to transform both visitors and the places they explore. However, we’re also acutely aware that not all forms of tourism have been beneficial. Indigenous communities, in particular, have often found themselves marginalised, their cultures exploited or packaged in ways that strip away authenticity.
But today, there’s a shift underway: a reclamation of narratives by Indigenous peoples themselves, who are welcoming visitors on their own terms and sharing their heritage in ways that empower their communities.
It is this spirit of empowerment and cultural preservation that inspired The Origin List, our first-ever compilation of 50 standout Indigenous tourism experiences from across the globe. This list is a celebration of Indigenous-led tourism, highlighting immersive, authentic experiences that honour the deep cultural heritage of Indigenous peoples and offer travellers the opportunity to engage in meaningful ways.
So, what is Indigenous tourism?
It’s a form of travel where Indigenous communities take the lead in creating experiences that reflect their traditions, landscapes and ways of life. It’s a chance for travellers to not just see a place, but to truly understand it by hearing stories passed down through the generations, learning traditional crafts, tasting ancestral foods and participating in sacred ceremonies. It is, in essence, a journey of connection; one that fosters respect, understanding and cultural appreciation.
The Origin List isn’t just about pointing travellers to extraordinary destinations; it’s about recognising the significance of
Indigenous voices in shaping those journeys. From the jungles of the Amazon to the vast deserts of Namibia, and from the icy expanses of Greenland to the sun-soaked islands of Fiji, these 50 experiences offer a window into the unique worldviews and traditions of Indigenous peoples around the globe.
But why create this list now? As the world grapples with the impacts of overtourism, the travel industry is at a crossroads. Many popular destinations have been loved to the point of degradation, and the homogenisation of travel has made it harder for travellers to have truly authentic experiences. Indigenous tourism offers a compelling alternative by emphasising sustainability, community and respect for local cultures. It invites travellers to step off the beaten path and engage with places in a way that benefits both the traveller and the host.
At Wanderlust, we champion travel as a force for good. By supporting Indigenous-led tourism initiatives, we can help preserve cultural heritage, create economic opportunities for local communities and foster a deeper
Words Jacqui Agate, Sean Connolly, Karen Edwards, Yvonne Gordon, Emma Gregg, Rebecca Hallett, Lyn Hughes, Lisa Kjellsson, Shafik Meghji, Alex Robinson
Introduction George Kipouros
understanding of the world’s diversity. Each experiencefeaturedin TheOriginListrepresents a commitment to these values.
To assemble our final list, we worked closely with a global advisory board of Indigenous tourism leaders, placing particular emphasis on regions where Indigenous communities are taking the lead in shaping their tourism offerings. Places such as Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Sápmi, and the USA are pioneering this kind of travel, thanks to Indigenous tourism associations that support community-led initiatives and empower local people to share their stories in their own voices.
But even as we celebrate the incredible experiences highlighted in The Origin List, we acknowledge that this is far from an exhaustive collection.The world is rich with Indigenous cultures, and there are countless other communities offering equally powerful and transformative experiences that we could not squeeze into these pages.
This list is just the starting point, and a window into the vast array of Indigenous-led experiences available to travellers. We encourage you to seek out these opportunities wherever your travels take you, and to engage with Indigenous communities in ways that are respectful, meaningful and rooted in mutual exchange.
The power of Indigenous tourism lies in its ability to break down barriers. It fosters genuine human connections, allowing travellers to not only witness but to
participate in the living cultures of the communities they visit. Whether learning traditional reindeer herding techniques from the Sámi people in the Arctic, exploring the ancient rock art of the Kuku Yalanji in Australia or understanding the complex relationship between nature and spirituality among the Blackfeet Nation in Montana, these experiences offer a depth of understanding that goes far beyond the typical tourist itinerary.
As you explore the destinations featured in The Origin List, we hope you’ll do so with an open mind and an open heart. Indigenous tourism is not just about seeing; it’s about listening, learning and appreciat ing the knowledge that has been passed down through generations. It’s about recognising that these cultures are not relics of the past, but vibrant, living communities with much to teach us about sustainability, resilience and respect for the natural world.
AOTEAROA (NEW ZEALAND) Ōtautahi/Christchurch, South Island
Grab a taste of Māori culture
We hope that through these Indigenous tourism experiences, you’ll gain both a deeper appreciation for the richness of Indigenous cultures and also contribute to their ongoing preservation and vitality.
Travel has the power to change the lives of those who journey and those who host us. Let’s make sure it truly is a force for good.
The Origin List Global Advisory Board
Āmiki Tours put the unique trails and dining of Ōtautahi (the Māori peoples’ name for Christchurch) at the centre of its experiences, all while its guides share stories of their ancestors.The two-hour City Meander tour wanders the inner city, following a route based on the guiding principles of manaakitanga (hospitality) and whanaungatanga (connection). There are also food stops along the way, demonstrating the historical importance to the Māori people of sharing kai (food).
Alternatively, the 75-minute Ōtautahi Hikoi tour focuses on the city’s cultural treasures, following in the footsteps of tīpuna (ancestors) along the laneways and waterways, sharing stories of everything from traditional food gathering on the riverbank to the city’s dining scene and architecture.There are also lunch tours (Kai Bites) and evening tours (Kai Safari), plus the more indulgent Ngā Hari o te Pō (Night of Delights), which includes paired drinks.YG amikitours.com
Kapiti Island, North Island
See unique wildlife with a Māori guide Kapiti Island is one of the oldest nature reserves in New Zealand, and its forest provides a sanctuary for endemic and rare birds such as the kākāriki (red-crowned parakeet), weka (woodhen) and kākā parrot.To learn more about the island, spend a day with Kapiti Island Nature Tours, which is run by John Barrett, who is Ngāti Raukawa,Te Āti Awa and NgātiToarangatira. As intergenerational kaitiaki (guardians) of the land around Waiorua Bay, at the northern tip of Kapiti, he and his whānau (family) run a lodge there. John and his whānau take their responsibility seriously, sharing the island on guided nature tours and also helping to preserve it for future generations by repopulating native ferns and fauna. Ferries can drop you off for day tours, or you can stay overnight in a cabin or glamping tent, waking up to the sounds of birdsong on one of New Zealand’s most remarkable islands. YG kapitiisland.com
Kirsi Suomi, Coordinator of Responsible Tourism at the Sámi Parliament in Finland
Sherry L Rupert, CEO of American Indian Alaska Native Tourism Association
Nicole Mitchell, Executive officer of Discover Aboriginal Experiences, Tourism Australia
Kgomotso Ramothea CEO of ATTA® Membership
Keith Henry, CEO of Indigenous Tourism Association of Canada
Pania Tyson-Nathan, CEO of NZ Māori Tourism
Marcelo Freixo, President of EMBRATUR Brazil
Kirikiriroa/Hamilton, North Island
Discover the art of the Tainui
JoinTe Ahurei MāoriTourism for a Māori ArtWalking Tour around the city centre of Kirikiriroa (the Māori peoples’ name for Hamilton).The tour explores seven mahi toi (artwork) sites, sharing the history and stories of the Tainui people that are embedded and stored within each.Along the way, guides will unravel the symbols, motifs and designs that explain the philosophy behindTainui customs, beliefs and traditions, covering everything from star lore to environmentalism.
The tour is not just a celebration of Māori art and culture; it also puts the multicultural city of Kirikiriroa/Hamilton in the spotlight. By understanding local history from a Māori perspective, it explores the city – better known for its gardens and street art – in a way that few other visitors experience. YG facebook.com/teahureimaoritourism
Murupara, North Island
Fill up at a hāngī feast in the Tribal lands of the Ngāti Manawa
The family-owned Kohutapu Lodge lies next to the serene waters of Lake Aniwhenua. Here you have the chance to not only learn about local Māori culture on itsTribalTours, but also give back to the local community as you explore the lands of the Ngāti Manawa people, learn their stories, visit significant sites and see ancient rock art.
As well as trying your hand at traditional activities such as weaving and night fishing for eels, there are guided walks in the surrounding Jurassic podocarp rainforest. But perhaps the pick of the bunch is the chance to attend a Māori hāngī feast, an ancient cooking technique where meat and vegetables are slow-
cooked on hot rocks in an earthen pit. And by staying here, your money allows Kohutapu Lodge to create positive change for the local community by investing in projects like delivering meals to those in need, providing school uniforms and arranging educational trips for children. YG kohutapulodge.co.nz
Waikato District, North Island
Join a battlefield tour of Rangiriri
In July 1863, the British sent their military forces across the Mangatāwhiri Stream, invadingWaikato and confiscating nearly 500,000 hectares of land to expand their settlement.
The Rangiriri invasion is considered to be one of the bloodiest battles of this period, and it is narrated in moving detail on a tour with the Te Runanga o Ngaati Naho, the guardians of the Rangiriri maiorooro (trenches), where the Māori people demonstrated what is now recognised as some of the earliest examples of trench warfare techniques in the world.
The two-hour Spirit of Resilience tour visits Māori earthwork fortifications and battle sites, letting you wander a scale-replica earthwork trench and hear the often shocking ⊲
(clockwise from top right) Walk and weave [inset] in Jurassic podocarp rainforest on a Tribal Tour with Kohutapo Lodge; stroll Māori street art on a tour of Kirikiriroa/Hamilton; taste the best of the Māori-inspired food scene of Ōtautahi/Christchurch
details of what took place, as well as tales of resistance by the descendants of those who fought. It’s a key history that few know about before setting foot there. YG rangiriri.com
West Coast, South Island
Follow the new Pounamu Pathway
The Pounamu Pathway is a multi-destination experience that links four interconnected visitor centres scattered across 300km of the South Island’s rugged west coast.Though not all of them are completed yet, they will include the Māwhera Pā, Greymouth; the Museum of Kawatiri (Westport); the Awarua/Haast Centre (opening in 2025) and the Hokitika Experience Centre (opening in 2026).
At the core of each is immersive storytelling, with exhibits designed by theWētāWorkshop (the effects studio behind The Lord of the Rings films) bringing to life the legends of the Māori people of theWest Coast. In between stops, you’ll explore stories of settlements and battles, all connected by an app directing you to different pou whenua (places of significance), including landmarks and experiences. YG pounamupathway.com
AUSTRALIA
Rubibi/Broome, Western Australia
Take an immersive journey into Yawuru and Karajarri culture
to impart his deep knowledge of Rubibi (the Aboriginal peoples’ name for Broome) and its surrounding landscape, and to create experiences that share the ancient customs of theYawuru and Karajarri people.
On the three-day immersive Broome Ultimate Aboriginal Culture Expedition, you can take a deep dive into these customs, with days centred around storytelling, hunting for native bushfood, Aboriginal dance performances and traditional cooking. Additionally, 50% of profits go to the Mabu Buru Foundation, which is dedicated to the survival and preservation of Indigenous culture in the West Kimberley region.
For more information about other operators inTourism Australia’s Discover Aboriginal Experiences collective, which reinvest profits from tours into education, training and employment for Indigenous people, see discoveraboriginalexperiences.com. YG broomeaboriginaltours.com.au
Gimuy/Cairns, Queensland
Cruise the mangroves of the Mandingalbay Yidinji people
The family-run Mandingalbay tours introduce travellers to the history and traditions of the MandingalbayYidinji people, whose historic territory is centred around Gimuy (the Aboriginal peoples’ name for Cairns). Most tours begin with a boat trip among the mangroves – which the surrounding communities help to preserve – taking you to a shelter for a ‘Welcome to Country’ ceremony.Thereafter, you’ll learn about ancient hunting techniques, bush medicine, ceremonial practices and the history of first European contact.
Tours are led by Uncle Vince, a MandingalbayYidinji guide who offers a wealth of knowledge about the ancestry of his people. Choose between an overnight camping experience for groups and a two-hour sunset cruise that includes a cultural talk. KE mandingalbay.com.au
Alamy; Karen Edwards;Jarramali Rock Art Tours; Mabu Mabu Tours; Pounamu Pathway; Walkabout Cultural Adventures
(this page; clockwise from top) The exhibits in the visitor centres along the Pounamu Pathway were designed by the Wētā Workshop, special-effects designers for films ranging from Avatar to Mulan; Johani Mamid of Mabu Buru Tours; cruises from Cairns Harbour get exclusive access to an Indigenous Protected Area on Mandingalbay tours
Laura, Queensland
Explore remote rock art at Jarramali Spanning the sandstone escarpment of northern Queensland’s wild outback, the region’s Quinkan rock art depicts the lives of the KukuYalanji people, with the most recent example dating from 1,200 years back – though some are as old as 20,000 years.
There’s no better, or more insightful, way to experience this history than with a descendant of the KukuYalanji community. The family-owned Jarramali Rock Art Tours runs helicopter daytrips from Gimuy/Cairns to visit some of the more easily accessible galleries. Along the way, owner Johnny Murison not only shares his insights on the rock art but tells the story of his own great-great-grandmother, who was a proud KukuYalanji woman.
Those interested in more of an adventure can opt instead for a one- or two-night camping experience. This includes hikes to some of the harder-to-reach galleries, insights into bush medicine and tucker, and swims in quiet, picturesque waterholes with nothing else for miles around. KE jarramalirockarttours.com.au
Mossman and Port Douglas, Queensland
Discover the wonders of Daintree Rainforest with a Kuku Yalanji guide Owned and run by Mossman local Juan Walker, Walkabout Cultural Adventures allows visitors to explore another side of the history and culture of the KukuYalanji people, theTraditional Owners of the Daintree Rainforest. Part of the experience is learning more about the forest itself, as Juan and his team introduce trees and plants that have long been used as bush medicine and food in Indigenous communities.You can also take part in activities such as spear and boomerang throwing, mud-crabbing (Kuku Yalanji-style) and trying the local bushtucker. By slowly trailing through the Daintree Rainforest, there is a good chance of spotting some of northern Australia’s endemic species, such as the saltwater crocodile and the cassowary.You’ll also have the opportunity
to stop off and sample some of Queensland’s best-loved tropical fruits, getting a taste for the area that goes far beyond the usual whistlestop tour. KE walkaboutadventures.com.au
Northeast Arnhem Land, Northern Territory
Support the Yolŋu art scene
The community-led Buku-Larrŋgay Mulka Centre, located in the small township of Yirrkala, is both a gallery and museum, and it offers a rare glimpse intoYolŋu culture through its art. Opened in 1975 with the sole intention of displayingYolŋu artworks, the gallery features the bark and canvas paintings of hundreds of artists, providing economic independence to local creatives as well as preserving the cultures of many remoteYolŋu homeland communities.
Today, the centre is also home to the Mulka Project, a programme dedicated to employing members of theYolŋu community, offering income streams and workplace training. A contemporary print space, music studio and stage have also been added to benefit young artists.Visitors can help support the gallery and those featured in it by buying ironwood bark and canvas pieces as well as traditional crafts such as woven baskets and mineral-stone jewellery. Artists receive 60% of the selling price, while the remaining 40% goes towards running the centre. KE yirrkala.com
Sydney, New South Wales
Journey through Sydney’s Indigenous heritage on a walking tour
Join Margret Campbell, founder-owner of Dreamtime Southern X, to explore Sydney’s Indigenous heritage on foot. Aunty Margret is an Elder from the Dunghutti and Jerrinja Nations of New South Wales. On her The Rocks Aboriginal Dreaming Tour, she and her guides take visitors on a 90-minute interpretive walk aroundThe Rocks area of Sydney Cove (Waranne in Eora), adding depth and context to what you see by telling stories and highlighting the importance of Aboriginal landmarks that existed here long before the Europeans arrived.
Margret, who pioneered Aboriginal tourism experiences in Australia when she launched tours to spotlight Sydney’s Indigenous heritage more than two decades ago, ⊲
(this page; clockwise from top left) Walkabout Cultural Adventures can teach you the traditional art of spear throwing; a woman walks past a mural on the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre in Yirrkala; the Quinkan rock art of Jarramali is like visiting a 20,000-year-old outdoor museum
also shares insights into Aboriginal cultures and the responsibilities of Elders in today’s society, offering as much a cultural primer as a tour. YG dreamtimesouthernx.com.au
Tiwi Islands, Northern Territory
Visit one of Australia’s oldest Aboriginal art centres
Located in Wurrumiyanga on Bathurst Island,Tiwi Design is one of Australia’s oldest art centres, dating back to 1968, when the islands were administered by missionaries.The purpose of the centre is to promote and preserve Tiwi culture, represented here
by an impressive collection of traditional ochre-pigment line paintings on iron-wood bark and canvas, plus carvings, printed fabrics and ceramic sculptures.
Another excellent repository for Tiwi art in Wurrumiyanga is the Ngaruwanajirri art centre, a listed building known locally as the Tiwi’s ‘Sistine Chapel’, thanks to the intricate murals painted across its arched ceiling – it’s worth a visit just to see them up close.The centre specialises in paintings and sculptures created predominantly by members of the Tiwi community who live with disabilities.
Travellers can purchase artwork from both galleries, with 50% of the sale price going directly to the artist. KE tiwidesigns.com; ngaruwanajirri.org.au
FIJI
‘unplugged’ experience, leaving electronics and mobile phones far behind.
Viti Levu
Explore Indigenous Fiji from an eco-retreat in the highlands
The Namosi Eco Retreat is set in the south-western highlands of the main Fijian island of Viti Levu. Surrounded by tropical, misty mountains, it isn’t just a picture-perfect setting; a stay at this Fiji-owned and -run eco-retreat is a chance for a truly
You can tuck into traditional and sustainable Fijian meals made with local crops, experience local customs and learn about the farming lifestyle of the area. Growing kava (used in a ceremonial drink) is the main source of income for locals in the nearby Navunikabi village – and you’ll be able to sample plenty of it when attending traditional kava ceremonies.
The accommodation is a traditional thatched Fijian bure (hut), perfectly placed for falling asleep to the sounds of the adjacent Luva River, where locals love to swim. In between hiking, bamboo rafting, village tours, harvesting food, weaving and cooking classes, it’s the perfect spot to relax.YG namosieco.com
(this page; clockwise from bottom) Tiwi Design, located on Bathurst Island, started from a small Catholic Presbytery in 1969, and now it drives the Indigenous art scene on the island; one of many local gems at Tiwi Design; guests stay in Fijian bures at Namosi Eco-Retreat
NAMIBIA
Kunene Region
Spend time in a Himba village
The Himba people have been living among the sand dunes of the Namib desert for thousands of years, which makes them the traditional custodians of this extraordinary environment. For centuries, they avoided contact with the cities that were founded by settlers, until tourists began exploring in the region in the 1980s.
When setting up Serra Cafema Camp on the banks of the Kunene River, overlooking the Namibia-Angola border, its owners respectfully approached the Himba villagers, offering support through mobile medical clinics and nutritional aid.Today, thanks to a long-standing relationship based on cultural respect and sensitivity, Serra Cafema guests are invited to visit one of three surrounding villages with one of the camp’s Himba guides. Handicrafts and jewellery, made by local women and children, are available to buy in Namibian and US dollars. KE wildernessdestinations.com
Otjozondjupa Region
Join a bushwalk with Ju/’Hoansi San guides
Southern Africa’s San (who sometimes call themselves Bushmen) consider themselves the oldest culture on Earth.They used to live a nomadic life, hunting and gathering, but much of their ancient knowledge was lost during the 20th century, as they suffered brutal persecution, their numbers dwindling. Despite their marginalisation, some of the San kept their traditions alive, and in Namibia’s Nyae Nyae Conservancy, groups of Ju/’Hoansi San host guided bushwalks for interested visitors. As you
(this page; top to bottom)
The Himba people avoided contact for centuries; walks with Ju/’Hoansi San guides take you into Namibia’s wilderness; spend time with the Xhosa community at Bulungula Lodge
follow in their footsteps, they demonstrate their impressive tracking, foraging and survival skills. Reading the semi-arid landscape as easily as we would read a map, they can identify all the best places to find water, harvest medicinal plants, build a fire or set traps to catch birds. EG tsumkwelodge.com
SOUTH AFRICA
Cape Town
Take an ethical township tour
There was a time when urban cultural tours in Cape Town had a shaky reputation, with misguided operators driving guests through informal settlements for a poverty-tourism experience that verged on voyeuristic. Uthando’s tours couldn’t be more different; they take a sensitive, positive-impact approach. Spend half a day with them and you’ll visit Cape Flats projects that benefit directly from tourism-generated funds, meeting community
members on their own terms and hearing them tell their own stories.
On a typical tour, you may chat with green-fingered local women who have transformed a chunk of urban wasteland into a community allotment, or meet teachers at an eco-friendly primary school built out of discarded plastic bottles and tyres. Often, you’ll have the chance to meet (and hear) a community choir – a joyous, exuberant highlight. EG uthandosa.org
Eastern Cape
Meet the Xhosa community
If a few days in an off-grid eco-lodge is exactly what you need to recharge your batteries, as it were, consider Bulungula Lodge. Providing a break from the click, buzz and whirr of urban life, it opens a window onto a different way of living. Owned and managed by Nqileni village (the Xhosa community in which it stands), Bulungula is run on Fair Trade principles. Its team offer walking tours of the lodge’s surroundings, on which you’ll be discussing aspects of Xhosa culture such as fishing, foraging and family values. As a bonus, Bulungula’s setting is breathtaking. It’s located in a gloriously remote corner of the Wild Coast region, in Nelson Mandela’s home province, with grassy hills rolling down to sandy beaches lapped by the Indian Ocean. EG bulungula.co.za ⊲
KENYA
Samburu County
Track black rhinos in the company of Samburu guides
Black rhinos are notoriously feisty, so it takes courage, daring and skill to approach them on foot. Kenya’s Sera Conservancy, Africa’s first community-owned rhino sanctuary, was the first protected area in East Africa in which this was permitted. It’s a humbling wildlife-watching experience, made possible by the commitment and nerve of highly trained Samburu rangers and guides.
After all that excitement, chances are you’ll be ready for something more serene. On request, your Samburu guide can take you to a singing well. As you watch, you’ll learn how muscular Samburu pastoralists, dressed in shuka sarongs and beads, dig down for water for their livestock, singing melodiously to keep a good rhythm going. EG sarunibasecamp.com
UGANDA
Kisoro District
Hit the Batwa Heritage Trail
Considered to be one of the oldest surviving cultures in Central Africa, the Batwa people were hunter-gatherers who once lived within the Virunga Mountains. However, when gorilla conservation gained pace in the early 1990s, theVirunga region was turned into a national park and the Batwa communities were displaced – left to fend for themselves in an unfamiliar modern setting.
Since 2018,Volcanoes Safaris have been committed to supporting the Batwa people by helping to fund the building of a permanent village. Here you’ll find the Batwa Heritage
JAPAN
Shiraoi, Hokkaido
Explore Ainu history at Japan’s northernmost museum
Trail, which is built on the grounds of Mount Gahinga Lodge. It consists of an interactive experience where Batwa members come together to showcase traditional tool making, honey collection and hunting techniques. Guests are encouraged to donate towards Volcanoes Safaris’ continued support of the Batwa, which also includes vocational training, employment and other projects. KE volcanoessafaris.com
SIERRA LEONE
Discover the Tiwai Heritage Trail
The community-run Tiwai Heritage Trail links eight villages of the Indigenous Mende people on and around Tiwai, an island in the Moa River.These communities surround the Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, home to chimpanzees and pygmy hippos.Visitors can immerse themselves in rural life and have a go at traditional activities such as basket making, hike or paddle through nature, or hear tales of local legends and myths, as well as visit sites relating to the cultural and natural heritage of the Mende. LH tiwaiheritagetrail.com
The Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park is located on the shores of Hokkaido’s beautiful Lake Poroto.This area is just one of a handful of locations on the island that are home to the Ainu, Japan’s only legally recognised Indigenous people (Okinawa’s Ryukyuan people aren’t acknowledged as such).They have a long history in northern Japan and on the Sea of Okhotsk islands, and they were also the first settlers on Hokkaido. Indeed, there has been a kotan (village) on this lakeshore for generations. Today, Poroto is an important gateway for visitors to understand the Ainu’s rich and living traditions. Through the museum’s design, exhibits and activities – from cookery classes to dance and music performances – you can get a better overview of Ainu culture, which most visitors will know little about. As such, this is a great primer before you head out into Hokkaido, the traditional Ainu homeland. RH ainu-upopoy.jp
Akan Kotan, Hokkaido
Visit an Ainu settlement
One of the largest Ainu settlements on Hokkaido is found on the shore of Lake Akan, in the east of the island. Today, it’s an important centre for learning about Ainu culture. And while it can sometimes make it feel a little like an open-air museum or gift shop, it’s also an expression of the Ainu people’s determination to maintain, celebrate and evolve their culture.
Alongside shops selling wood carvings, embroidery and mukkuri (mouth harps), you’ll find the exceptional Akanko Ainu Theatre, where ceremonial performance is blended with modern dance and digital art to create remarkable productions that immerse you in ancient Ainu stories.
The kotan (village) is the starting point for the Kamuy Lumina illuminated night walks, introducing you to the Ainu’s many kamuy (gods).You can also join one of the Anytime, Ainutime cultural tours, which typically focus on giving a background to the lake, the forest and traditional Ainu crafts, but also include a chance to try some Ainu cuisine. RH akanainu.jp
Alamy; Lennart Pittja; Sermilik Adventures; Volcanoes Safaris; Robin Francois
(this page; top to bottom) Having been driven from their homeland, the Batwa had to start over; Dulan is popular with surfers; stay in a Batwa village at Mount Gahinga Lodge
TAIWAN
Dulan, Taitung County Dance at an Amis music festival
The village of Dulan, on the coast of south-eastern Taiwan, is home to the Indigenous Amis people.Visitors here can take a walking tour to learn about their traditions, craft-making and traditional foraging – the Amis view the ‘weeds that others look down on’ as treasures.Villagers can show you how to identify tasty edible plants in the wild, then cook them according to the recipes of their Elders. Afterwards, you will gather at the foot of Dulan Mountain to eat together from coconut bowls. It’s a unique experience.
Every year in mid-November, Dulan hosts the Amis Music Festival to celebrate the culture and arts of Taiwan’s Indigenous peoples. Different Tribes and representatives from local areas and abroad are invited to participate, making it a lively event. But it’s not the only draw, and in recent years the area has become popular with surfers. For an introduction to the Amis of Dulan and other communities in Taiwan, join guide Cheryl Robbins (specialty-tourstaiwan@gmail.com) for a deep dive. YG atolan-style.com
GREENLAND
East Greenland
Spot polar bears with an Inuit guide East Greenland is the far away end of a far away country, andTobias Ignatiussen comes from one of its remotest spots.The boulder-strewn Umiivik Fjord is 200-plus kilometres from the nearest settlement, but only a few from his birthplace.Tobias was born in a camp nearby, and he grew up as one of the last people in Greenland to live a semi-nomadic Inuit lifestyle, so he knows more than a little something about Greenland’s fringes. His tour agency, Sermilik Adventures, is among the first in Greenland to be certified to lead sightseeing tours to spot polar bears, and his expertise in reading the sounds, signs and signals of this Arctic world is unparalleled. Join him for Igloo stays, visits to remote glaciers, wildlife spotting and boat trips into the frozen edges of East Greenland. SC sermilikadventures.com
SÁPMI
Gällivare, Sweden
Stay in a lavvu tent at a Sámi-owned wilderness camp
In the depths of northern Sweden, up in the Swedish part of a cross-border region known as Sápmi – the traditional land inhabited by the Sámi – lies a glamping site on the shore of the Lule River.The Sámiowned Sápmi Nature Camp’s traditional lavvu tents are the ideal base from which to explore this UNESCO-listed area, and they come furnished with comfortable beds and wood-burning stoves.
Founder Lennart Pittja knows the Arctic landscape like the back of his hand. He guides small groups in the wilderness, sharing insights into Sámi culture and introducing visitors to their food.Whether kayaking on the river in summer or snowshoeing the boreal forest in winter, a stay here puts you right in the heart of the Swedish part of Sápmi. And there’s no better time to go than during the colder months, when the northern lights paint the sky. LK sapminature.com
Inari, Finland
Visit an award-winning Sámi museum
The Sámi Museum Siida – 2024 winner of the prestigious European Museum of the Year award – is dedicated to raising awareness of the only recognised Indigenous people in the European Union. Located 320km north of the Arctic Circle, it is a must-visit attraction in the Sámi Homeland in Finland.
The museum’s main permanent exhibition, These Lands Are Our Children, is named after a Sámi poem and based on repatriation work it carried out alongside the Sámi community, returning over 2,200 objects to the Sámi people.The result is some powerful storytelling through art and handicrafts. It also highlights how the Sámi cultural environment and connection to the land have been built through memories and traditions passed down through the generations. LK siida.fi
Nordkyn peninsula, Norway
Join a family of Sámi reindeer herders
For generations, the Utsi family has continued the reindeer-herding tradition of their Sámi ancestors.Their lives revolve around the needs of the herd, and visitors to their remote home on the Nordkyn peninsula learn that the traditional Sámi way of life is intrinsically linked to the landscape and the seasons.
In summer, the midnight sun means the days and nights blend into one, while the coastal climate around Kjøllefjord creates lush grazing areas for the reindeer. In winter, the herd migrates to drier plains in the inner parts of Finnmark, where guests receive a warm welcome and a steaming bowl of reindeer-meat soup as part of a traditional Sámi dining experience. LK davvisiida.no
(clockwise from top left)
Experience traditional Sámi life by staying in a lavvu at Sápmi Nature Camp; even by Greenland standards, its eastern fringes are remote; a live show at the Akanko Ainu Theatre
BRAZIL
Jaqueira, Bahia
Witness the revival of a Pataxó village
The Pataxó are descendants of the Indigenous mountain people who lived in Bahia when the Portuguese first arrived in Brazil. Their population was decimated in the 20th century, when hundreds were lost during a campaign to reclaim their lands in Monte Pascoal National Park.Their language and traditions have come close to extinction.
In the late 1990s, three remarkable Pataxó sisters began a cultural renovation project in their village of Jaque ira, near Porto Seguro. They re-introduced the Pataxó language,traditional agriculture and started an eco-tourism project to provide community
income. Visits are profoundly inspiring, offering genuine interaction and traditional learning with the community. Jaqueira also kickstarted cultural pride among young Pataxó, and in 2022, 21 year-old Indigenous activist Alice Pataxó was nominated as one of the BBC’s ‘Women of theYear’. AR pataxoturismo.com.br
Manaus, Amazonas
Cruise the Rio Negro with a Munduruku guide Saru Mundurukus grew up hunting and fishing in the rainforest. Now he runs the only Indigenous-owned tour company in the Brazilian Amazon – something he had dreamt of since his twenties.Working as a guide,he saw non-Indigenous Brazilians prospering from rainforest tourism while largely ignoring Indigenous and riverine culture. “The Amazon isn’t a vast wilderness without people,” he says. “Native Amazonians have lived here for millennia in harmony with nature.”
While most Amazon tourism focuses on wildlife and stays in jungle lodges, Saru
takes people on cruises to rainforest communities, and from there into little-visited wilds that local people have long loved and fostered.“Sharing this Eden, and our knowledge of how to live with it, gives visitors the chance to see the real Amazon,” he reflects Book tours with Saru through tour operator
The Earth Trip, or contact iurys_didier on Instagram. AR theearthtrip.com
BELIZE
San Antonio
Make corn tortillas with the San Antonio Women’s Co-op
The San Antonio Women’s Co-op was formed by a group of Maya women.They started it as a way to earn an income, learn new skills and to share their traditional knowledge with visitors and the younger generation. Their aim has always been to ‘empower’ and ‘inspire’ – something that becomes apparent in just a short time in their company. Visitors can try their hand at ancient pottery-making techniques with a group of Maya artisans, learn about the art of huipil embroidery, or participate in a cooking session, helping to prepare a traditional Maya meal.You will also have a chance to purchase crafts made by the women in the community.Tour operators such as Belize Adventure Tours offer visits; alternatively, search for the Co-op’s Facebook page. LH belizeadventuretours.com
BOLIVIA
Madidi National Park
Stay with the QuechuaTacana community in the upper Amazon
In the depths of Madidi National Park – thought to be the world’s most biodiverse protected area – lies the Chalalán eco-lodge, owned and run by the Quechua-Tacana community of San José de Uchupiamonas. This cluster of thatched A-frame cabins, shaded by fruit trees and overlooking a mirrored lagoon, feels gloriously secluded. Visitors can trek along rainforest trails, take boat trips along the serpentine Beni and
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Alamy; Alex Robinson
(clockwise from this) Projects in the village of Jaqueira are helping to preserve Brazil’s Pataxó culture; Saru guides boat tours of the Rio Negro in Brazil’s Amazon; Bolivia’s red-andgreen macaw can be seen in Madidi NP; traditional Pataxó headgear
Tuichi rivers, swim in foliage-fringed lakes and fish for piranhas, all while keeping their eyes peeled for pink dolphins, jaguars, anacondas, parrots and toucans.
As well as funding clinics, education and infrastructure, and providing the people of San José de Uchupiamonas with jobs, this low-impact lodge has had an even wider benefit: helping to protect the park from the threats posed by illegal poachers, loggers, ranchers and miners. SM chalalan.com
COLOMBIA
Vichada Department
Dive into the Matavén jungle with the Piaroa community
The Orinoco River is a vital force that shapes the ecosystems around it, offering a sanctuary for birds, fish and animal species ranging from river dolphins to caimans. On a trip withThe Colombian Project, visitors can immerse themselves in the beauty of the vast Matavén jungle on the Orinoco, and stay in La Urbana with the Piaroa Indigenous community who call this region home. Here you can learn about the Piaroa
and shifted from hunting to eco-tourism. Today, they are conservationists, acting as guardians to a healthy population of one of the world’s largest freshwater fish, the arapaima – a true dinosaur of the deep – which visitors come from around the world to see. Nor are these fish the only behemoths here; guests can also admire giant water lilies (Victoria amazonica) and go in search of giant river otters and the goliath bird-eating spider (the world’s largest tarantula). Other activities include fishing, birdwatching, boat trips and visits to Rewa village,where the health centre, schools and church have all been funded through the lodge. LH rewaecolodge.com
ECUADOR
customs, their way of life and their unique traditions. Activities include exploring the forest and savannahs, canoeing on the river and through flooded jungle, walking in the tepuis and preparing staple recipes such as casaba and mañoco using local ingredients. There will be an opportunity to learn about the handicrafts of the Piaroa people and to participate in traditional activities and games.This is a unique chance to witness the people of the Matavén jungle’s deep connection with the land, and to find out how they are preserving their cultural and natural heritage for future generations. YG colombianproject.com
GUYANA
North Rupununi
Search for giants at Rewa Eco-Lodge Situated deep in the Guyana rainforest, and accessed only by boat, this eco-lodge was opened in 2005 when the Macushi community realised they needed a sustainable future
Immerse yourself in pristine nature at an acclaimed rainforest eco-lodge Located in theYasuní National Park, deep In the Ecuadorian Amazon rainforest, Sani Lodge is 100% owned and managed by the Kichwa community of Sani Isla. Activities with the knowledgeable local guides include canoe rides, jungle walks, specialist birding and photography tours, and a trip to the local community centre for insights into the Kichwa way of life and what they achieve with the ecotourism revenue from the lodge. With over 550 species of birds, plus monkeys, caimans, manatees and turtles,there is plenty to see; however, tellingly, it is the warm welcome and excellent service that guests usually remark on. LH sanilodge.com
MEXICO Chihuahua
(clockwise from this) The Rarámuri of northern Mexico are known for their running ability; Guyana’s arapaima can grow up to 3m long; Colombia’s Matavén jungle is home to some 16,000 Indigenous people; a traditional Rarámuri woven basket
Pound the trails of Copper Canyon with Rarámuri guides
Set amid the dramatic landscapes of the Copper Canyon, in Mexico’s northern state of Chihuahua, Experiencias Rarámuri is a community-based tourism project that was founded in 2015. It offers a chance to join guides from two far-flung Rarámuri communities – Bacajipare and Huetosachi – on hikes along networks of precipitous, centuries-old trails, revealing sacred tombs, ancient rock art sites and panoramic viewpoints.
Trips provide valuable insight into Rarámuri mythology and culture.You can also attend cookery,weaving and handicraft-making classes,as well as hear storytelling sessions and join traditional family meals.The latter will likely feature pinole, a nutrient-rich concoction of ground maize,cocoa and cinnamon that powers the reputation of the Rarámuri as impressive long-distance runners. SM experienciasraramuri.com
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Alamy; Lyn Hughes
(top to bottom) Explore traditional Diné life and culture at Arizona’s Shash Diné EcoRetreat; Alaska’s Kodiak bear is the world’s second-largest land carnivore after the polar bear
Alaska, USA
Encounter giant Kodiak bears at an Alutiiq-owned lodge
Rippling spruce forests and sand-trimmed shores characterise Kodiak Island, the wild setting for the remote Kodiak Brown Bear Center & Lodge.This is owned by the Alutiiq people, who have called this place home for some 7,500 years. As the name suggests, the island also provides a habitat for around 3,500 Kodiak bears, a mammoth subspecies of brown bear that can measure up to 3m tall when standing. These majestic mammals are the main draw for visitors, with catamaran and hiking tours taking guests to prime viewing spots. Back at the lodge, the modern and comfy cabins offer stellar views of Karluk Lake.And if you want to immerse yourself in Alutiiq culture, spend some time in the banya, or maqiwik (traditional steam bath). JA kodiakbearcenter.com
Alberta, Canada
Unravel the story of the Métis
The Métis describe themselves as distinct from Euro-Canadians and First Nations peoples, since their culture originates from both the region’s Indigenous peoples and its early European fur traders.This history is on full view at Métis Crossing, which doubles as a cultural centre and a unique place to stay. Learn more through nature walks with Métis interpreters; wildlife park tours where you can spot bison and Percheron draft horses; paddle excursions along a historic trading route; and cultural tours diving into the history, traditional lifeways and art of the Métis.Visitors can also stay overnight at the riverside lodge, or make a base in one of the ‘sky-watching domes’, whose giant skylights offer a window on the stars the Métis once used to navigate. JA metiscrossing.com
Arizona, USA
Stay in a Navajo Nation hogan
The Navajo Nation sprawls across the south-western states, taking in vast swathes of butte-studded desert within Arizona, New Mexico and Utah.The Shash Diné EcoRetreat occupies five rugged hectares near the town of Page, and it immerses visitors in the culture of the USA’s largestTribal Nation. The site’s highlight is its pair of hogans –traditional Diné (Navajo) dwellings made of wood or earth, featuring wood-burning stoves (available year-round).You can also overnight in a bell tent or wagon from spring through to autumn. Guests feast on traditional Diné cuisine (lamb, bread and vegetables, plus Navajo tea) under a starry night sky while listening to time-honoured stories. The following morning is spent hiking in the
desert with guides who’ll help you to capture impressive photographs of the land they’ve stewarded for millennia. JA shashdine.com
British Columbia, Canada
Explore the Ahousaht homeland with an Indigenous guide
The wild, windswept beauty of Tofino, a small town on the south-west of Vancouver Island, comes to the fore on tours with Ahous Adventures. Knowledgeable Ahousaht guides hope to instil in visitors a deeprooted respect for the land, as they take in the island’s Pacific Ocean-lapped wilderness. You’ll learn about the ecology and cultural history of the Ahousaht homelands, and take to the water in search of whales, sea lions and birdlife. Other tours focus on seeking out black bears and elusive Alamy
coastal wolves, who reside along the inlets of the Clayoquot Sound. Meanwhile, the Hot Springs Eco-Tour takes visitors on a hike through dense old-growth forest and along rugged shores, culminating with a relaxing soak. JA ahousadventures.com
California, USA
Savour the crafts of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians
Head to Palm Springs in southern California for an introduction to the culture of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, who have called the scrub-scattered Coachella Valley home for generations.
Their Agua Caliente Cultural Plaza is one of the largest venues of its kind in the country and includes a museum, spa and an al-fresco exhibition filled with native plants. In the first of these, visitors will find displays bringing to life the Tribe’s creation and migration stories, traditional craftwork such as Cahuilla-made baskets, and ancient artefacts, including fragments of 8,000-yearold weaponry excavated from the plaza site.The top-notch spa’s 22 private mineral baths are fed by Palm Springs’ namesake waters, which are celebrated by the Cahuilla peoples for their healing properties. JA aguacalienteculturalplaza.com
Manitoba, USA
Take a dog-sled tour through Métis history
Escape to the snowy wilds of northern Manitoba, where dog musher and tour guide Dave Daley has been introducing visitors to the joys of dog sledding – a historically significant mode of winter transport for northern Canada’s Indigenous peoples – for more than two decades. Wapusk Adventures’ flagship tour takes visitors on a dog-sledding trip through snow-plastered taiga to reveal the culture and history of the Métis in Churchill.
Dave’s other tours focus on chasing the northern lights and photography. Or if you take a summer trip, you can opt for a guided biking tour, which takes you around Churchill town and out to Cape Merry, a historic site that’s also a prime whale-watching spot. JA wapuskadventures.com
Montana, USA
Explore Blackfeet Nation culture among the glaciers
Combine outdoor adventure in the wilderness of Glacier National Park with an immersion in Blackfeet Nation culture. Sun Tours’ excursions explore the famed Goingto-the-Sun Road, which climbs its way to the 2,025m-high Logan Pass, wriggling past forest-edged lakes and bluffs dotted with mountain goats. Along the way, you’ll receive a lesson in Blackfeet history and customs, and discover how theTribe’s story and lifeways are inextricably bound up with the land by studying the plants used in traditional medicines and hearing time-honoured legends.Tour highlights include a stop at the breathtaking Jackson Glacier Overlook and the chance to spot wildlife such as grizzly bears and elk. JA suntours.co
New Brunswick, Canada
Hear the story of the Elsipogtog First Nation
Visitors get a hands-on experience at the Elsipogtog Mi’kmaq Cultural Centre in the Atlantic province of New Brunswick, which is dedicated to celebrating the customs and history of the Elsipogtog First Nation. Experiences include the chance to attend a typical smudging ceremony, a spiritual practice that involves the burning of sage or sweetgrass, and workshops that teach precious traditional crafts ⊲
(top to bottom) The 600,000 hectare Blackfeet Indian Reservation shares Glacier National Park’s eastern border; learn about Métis culture, see the northern lights and try your hand at dog-sledding [bottom] in Churchill, Manitoba
such as basket weaving. A Heritage Path also winds into the forest, where you can join guides who will share the medicinal properties of the plants as you wander. There’s the opportunity to hear stories from Elders and taste Mi’kmaq snacks such as bannock (a kind of traditional bread) too. JA heritagepathtour.com
Oklahoma, USA
LearnabouttheChoctawNation
Oklahoma was once so-called ‘Indian Territory’. But after the Indian Removal
Act was passed in 1830, and the nascent US expanded west and southward, its Indigenous communities were forced from their homes onto the state’s federally designated lands.Today, Oklahoma’s 39 distinct Indigenous Tribes and Nations share their culture through galleries, cultural centres and festivals.
Prominent among these is the Choctaw Cultural Center in south-eastern Oklahoma. Exhibits cover everything from life in the USA’s south-eastern homelands before Euro-American contact (the ‘living village’
includes the traditional houses of the Chocktaw Nation) to their relocation via what has come to be known as the Trail of Tears . Visitors can also pore over Choctaw arts and crafts, learn how to make traditional foods like tanchi labona (a pork and corn dish) and try their hand at clay sculpting. JA choctawculturalcenter.com
Ontario, Canada
Hike and forage in Three Fires Confederacy territory
Join Wikwemikong Tourism to experience the bucolic (and unceded) territory of the Three Fires Confederacy, whose peoples reside on Odawa Mnis (Manitoulin Island) and on isles scattered across Lake Huron. From May through to November, a range of tours offer insights into Anishinabek culture, exploring these forest-stitched lands with an eye on history.
Highlights include a hiking excursion on the Bebamikawe Memorial Trail, a route with lookouts across the Georgian Bay and North Channel, plus information panels sharing facts about Anishinabek lifeways and their stewardship of the land. Meanwhile, a food-focused tour offers the chance to forage for traditional ingredients with knowledgeable guides, before sitting down to an al-fresco dinner prepared over an open fire. JA wikytours.com
(top to bottom) The Living Village at the Choctaw Cultural Center shows what life was like before settlers arrived; a map of what was once known as ‘Indian Territory’ – land that disappeared as US settlers moved West and claimed it for themselves
Québec, Canada
Canoe the Kabir Kouba with Indigenous guides
The Site Traditionnel Huron is a reconstruction of a Huron-Wendat Nation village – the kind of settlement that would have been occupied by the Iroquoian-speaking Indigenous peoples who have long lived in the St Lawrence Valley.Tours lead visitors around the site, stopping at the long house (a traditional dwelling with a fire pit) and a food smoker,where guides explain the traditional processes of preserving meat and fish.
Beyond the site, canoe excursions strike out on the Kabir Kouba river, with Indigenous guides sharing legends passed down through the generations as you paddle.Visitors can take part in archery lessons and learn how to make a medicine wheel too. Be sure to call ahead for an English-speaking guide, though self-guided tours are possible if one isn’t available. JA huron-wendat.qc.ca/en
Saskatchewan, Canada
Wander 6,000 years of Plains First Nations history
The sprawlingWanuskewin Heritage Park overlooks the Opimihāw Creek northeast of Saskatoon. It protects the stories of the Plains First Nations peoples of Canada’s Northern Plains, who have gathered here for some 6,000 years. Home to a medicine wheel, ancient petroglyphs and scores of medicinal plants,trails snake through the site exploring this culture.
The site’s grasslands also provide a habitat for roaming bison.These mammals, once vital to the survival of Canada’s Indigenous peoples, were hunted to near-oblivion by settlers, but were reintroduced in 2019. Guided tours put the site into context, while interpretative programmes are focused on everything from art to games. On select dates, visitors can also enjoy a traditional dinner in the tipi village. JA wanuskewin.com
South Dakota, USA
Dive into Lakota culture
The father and daughter-ledTatanka Rez Tourz is committed to celebrating the history and
contemporary culture of the Lakota people, whose lands spread across the great plains of the Dakotas. Excursions include exploring the Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota, and take in important sites such as the Wounded Knee monument, a memorial to the Lakota peoples who, in 1890,were killed in a massacre carried out by the US army. Alternative tours strike into the Badlands and focus on the fascinating ecology of the Black Hills region, with its craggy granite spires, rolling prairie and roaming bison. You’ll also see the gargantuan (and in-progress) mountain memorial to Lakota warrior Crazy Horse. JA tatankareztourz.com
Upstate New York, USA; Ontario & Quebec, Canada
Shine a light on Akwesasne heritage AkwesasneTravel’s cultural tours offer a glimpse into the lifeways of the Akwesasne peoples (part of the Saint Regis MohawkTribe),whose homelands straddle the US-Canada border. It’s a great chance to meet local Indigenous artisans and businesspeople within the community. Learn about basket-making as you tour the
studio of master weaver Carrie Hill,who owns Chill Baskets,or hear about the healing power of plants while exploring the medicinal garden of Sateiokwen Bucktooth, founder of health and beauty brand Snipe Clan Botanicals. Another tour visits a lacrosse stick factory so that guests can watch a craftsperson carve a stick from hickory, explaining the local significance of the sport.Tours also visit the Native North American Traveling College, a centre that features exhibits on Akwesasne history and culture, including their creation story and how life changed after contact with European settlers. JA akwesasne.travel/ mohawk-cultural-tours
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(clockwise from top) The Plains First Nations peoples have lived on Canada’s Northern Plains for 6,000 years; a coin marking the infamous Treaty No 6, in which the peoples of the Northern Plains lost their land; Carrie Hill’s traditional baskets; the still-unfinished Crazy Horse Memorial was begun in 1948
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The history of country music and the blues runs deep in Mississippi
THE MUSIC OF THE
MAGNOLIA STATE
Considered the birthplace of the blues, Mississippi’s musical heritage runs deep. This is a state that has put its stamp on so many musical genres – all entwined with its rich culture, landscapes and food
Mississippi’s music history hums like a deep blues chord, resonating across time and place. What’s more, 2025 marks 100 years since bluesman B.B. King’s birth, and 90 since Elvis Presley’s. But Mississippi is more than the cradle of blues and rock ’n’ roll – it’s the rhythmic heartbeat of America’s soundtrack.
To understand Mississippi’s musical heritage is to tap into its soul. Like a well-worn vinyl record, its grooves reveal a deeper story of resilience, passion and pride. Through its melodies, Mississippi amplifies the hollers of its people and – lifting each from the mix – the state is best explored through four distinct trails that each shine a spotlight on its most expressive and melodic voices.
THE MISSISSIPPI BLUES TRAIL
The Mississippi Blues Trail takes visitors through the heart of the state, showcasing the iconic locations that shaped blues history, from Clarksdale to Greenwood and beyond. Markers act as signposts to highlight the birthplaces of musicians, notable juke joints, recording studios and much more. The best way to explore the trail is by car, using the official trail map or the mobile app, which provides directions and in-depth insights into Mississippi’s cultural and musical legacy.
5 HIGHLIGHTS NOT TO MISS…
1
Delta Blues Museum
When impoverished African American farmers in the Mississippi Delta blended church spirituals with work songs, they created the mother of most modern music genres. Country, rock, jazz and punk are just some of the Delta’s many offspring. Founded in 1979, it was the Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale that became the first museum to pay tribute to the history and legacy of the blues. Exhibits include guitars owned by John Lee
Clarksdale’s crossroads, where Robert Johnson was said to have sold his soul
Hooker, Son Thomas and B.B. King, as well as displays devoted to Charlie Musselwhite and Big Mama Thornton. Ever-changing exhibits add depth to wider blues culture, such as the history of Jackson-based Trumpet Records and Delta blues heritage.
2
Muddy Waters Cabin
The centrepiece of the Delta Blues Museum is the very cabin in which ‘Chicago blues’ legend Muddy Waters was raised by his grandmother. Originally located at Stovall Farms in Clarksdale, where Waters lived during his days as a sharecropper and tractor driver, it was on this cabin’s front porch in 1941 that ethnomusicologist Alan Lomax recorded Waters playing for the US Library of Congress. Along with photographs and a life-size waxwork, exhibits include one of his guitars, as well as ZZ Top’s
‘Muddywood’ guitar, which Billy Gibbons had crafted from one of the cabin’s timbers.
Early blues musicians made their way on the Chitlin’ Circuit, which booked Black performers during the Jim Crow period of segregation
3
B.B. King’s Birthplace
This Mississippi Blues Trail marker in Berclair is an essential destination for any blues fan to discover more about the influence this genre has had throughout the state. B.B. King was born Riley King in a cabin on the side of Bear Creek, among the cotton fields that shaped his early life. This humble location captures the raw roots of the Delta blues. A stop here allows you to walk in the footsteps of a legend, feeling the power of the landscape that inspired his sound. The Blues Trail marker offers insights into King’s journey, from local boy to global icon, making it a deeply resonant spot to connect with this celebrated musician on the Mississippi Blues Trail.
4 Blue Front Café
Established in 1948, the Blue Front Café – located in Bentonia on Highway 49 – is the oldest surviving juke joint in Mississippi. Owned by GRAMMY-nominated bluesman Jimmy ‘Duck’ Holmes, who started the Bentonia Blues Festival in 1972, this simple roadside, breeze-block café was a popular spot for workers from nearby cotton fields to eat, drink and listen to music. In this way it played an important role in the development of the distinctive Bentonia style of blues, known for its haunting, hypnotic sound.
B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center in Indianola
Inside the
B.B. King Museum
5Dockery Farms
“If you had to pick one single spot as the birthplace of the blues, you might say it all started right here,” said B.B. King (pictured left). Dockery Farms once covered 100 sq km, had its own shops, churches, school, and even its own currency. At its peak, 3,000 people lived here, including Charley Patton, Tommy Johnson, Willie Brown, Son House, Howlin’ Wolf, and Robert Johnson. Here they would play on the porch of the commissary on a Saturday afternoon, ahead of raucous all-night performances in juke joints – which typically paid up to 500 times better than working the fields.
MISSISSIPPI’S BLUES LEGENDS
B.B. King
The ‘Blues Boy’ influenced many musicians with his expressive solos and the vibrato techniques that made his guitar, Lucille, sing. A winner of 15 GRAMMYs, B.B. is the King of the Blues.
Muddy Waters
Muddy grew up in Mississippi’s cotton country. His stage name came from a childhood playing in murky creeks and reflects his Delta roots, which shaped his pioneering electric blues style.
Mississippi John Hurt
Soft-voiced with hypnotic fingerpicking, Hurt was first recorded in 1928 but spent most of his life as a farm hand. He found fame in 1963, aged 70, three years before he died.
Robert Johnson
Legend has it this blues legend sold his soul to the Devil in exchange for his virtuoso fingerpicking skills. Simultaneously playing bass, rhythm and lead on his guitar, Johnson set the Delta ablaze until his death at 27.
Owned by the GRAMMYnominated Jimmy ‘Duck’ Holmes, the Blue Front Café was originally opened for cotton workers to eat, drink and relax to music
Dockery Farms
Blue Front Café
Scan to listen to the artists that influenced the Mississippi Blues Trail.
MAKE IT A ROAD TRIP
Day 1: Jackson to Cleveland via Indianola and Bentonia
Start your Mississippi blues journey in the state capital, Jackson, where the rhythms of the blues and the fight for civil rights have shaped the culture. Visit the Malaco Records marker, home to iconic soul and blues artists like Bobby ‘Blue’ Bland and Johnnie Taylor. Then explore the Farish Street Historic District, once the cultural epicentre for Jackson’s Black community and a cradle for the blues. Make sure you stop by the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum
for an immersive look at the state’s history of struggle and resistance, echoed in its music.
After lunch at The Big Apple Inn on Farish Street, known for its pig-ear sandwiches and its role in the Civil Rights Movement, take a short detour to Bentonia to visit the legendary Blue Front Café. Enjoy a stop here for a drink and, if you’re lucky, you might catch a performance by ‘Duck’ Holmes.
Check out B.B. King’s Birthplace marker on the Mississippi Blues Trail before heading to Indianola, home to the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center, where you’ll learn all about the life of the King
of the Blues and his profound influence on American music across the decades.
For dinner, try The Crown Restaurant for some Delta comfort food, such as catfish and homemade pies, before driving 25 minutes to Cleveland to stay at the Cotton House hotel.
Day 2: Cleveland to Greenwood
Spend the first part of the day in Cleveland’s charming downtown, discovering art galleries and music shops. Visit the state-ofthe-art GRAMMY Museum Mississippi, which celebrates Mississippi’s musical history and its global impact.
Drive the hour-long route to Greenwood – a town steeped in blues and civil rights history – stopping en route at the Dockery Farms marker. Often hailed as the birthplace of the blues, this old cotton gin is where legends such as Charley Patton, ‘Father of the Delta Blues’, spent time honing his craft.
In Greenwood, check out the Robert Johnson Blues Trail markers around town. Johnson is the most enigmatic figure in blues folklore, and his grave can be found in the grounds of the Little Zion Church. Drop in for the impassioned service on a Sunday and you’ll be made to feel very welcome by Reverend Collins and his parishioners, whose gospel vocals are heavenly.
Spend time wandering through Greenwood’s historic downtown, where the blues can be heard on the streets, piped in through concealed speakers. The WGRM Radio Station on Howard Street was the site of B.B. King’s first live broadcast in 1940. For some relevant contrast, dress up for dinner at Giardina’s Restaurant, which offers a fine-dining experience with local flavours, then spend the night at Tallahatchie Flats, a semi-circle of rural sharecroppers’ cabins that have been reimagined as ramshackle lodgings. Here you can immerse yourself in the quiet, reflective atmosphere of the Delta for an uncommonly deep connection to the land where many blues artists grew up.
Day 3: Greenwood to Clarksdale
Make your way to Clarksdale, perhaps the heart of Mississippi’s blues world. On your way, stop by Tutwiler, where legendary bandleader WC Handy first encountered the blues being performed by a man playing slide guitar with a knife blade. If you can find it – at the edge of the tree line in a tumbledown cemetery off Prairie Road – you can also pay your respects at Sonny Boy Williamson II’s grave. Once in Clarksdale, visit the
See memorabilia at the B.B. King Museum
The Big Apple Inn in Jackson
See live blues music in Clarksdale
Delta Blues Museum, which houses an array of artefacts from blues stars, including the cabin where Muddy Waters once lived. Walk through the town, following Mississippi Blues Trail markers, and make sure to stop by Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art, a wonderful local gallery and shop that brims with blues records, art and books.
Check into the famous Shack Up Inn during daylight hours to fully appreciate this former sharecropper community that’s been transformed into eccentric lodgings that positively jostle with outlandish curios and vintage cars. As a guest, you get to pick an acoustic guitar to take back to your cabin for the duration of your stay.
Then begin your evening at the Bad Apple Blues Club, where owner Sean Apple plays guitar under retina-baffling blue lighting in between educating visitors on the titular genre. Or spend the night catching live bands at Red’s for a raw, authentic juke joint experience. Despite the omnipresent scarlet lights, both the blues and the booze flow late into the small hours.
Day 4: Clarksdale to Greenville via Leland
Begin your final day by heading south from Clarksdale to Leland. Enjoy the 90-minute drive through
the fertile fields of the Delta while listening to the Visit Mississippi Blues playlist, the landscapes providing a vivid backdrop to the stories told by the music.
Leland is home to the small-but-mighty Highway 61 Blues Museum, dedicated to the artists who travelled and performed along the iconic Blues Highway. The museum features tributes to musicians like Johnny Winter and James ‘Son’ Thomas, and its exhibits highlight the connections between blues and the historic struggles of the Delta.
Pay a visit to the Greenville History Museum to learn more about the town’s culture, and drop by the Walnut Street Blues Bar, which has long hosted live blues performances and remains a local favourite.
Conclude your Mississippi odyssey with a sunset stroll around the boardwalks of Greenville Cypress Preserve. Awash with golden hues, its still waters reflect knotted roots that support towering trunks, acting as a mirror to a land that’s seen sorrow, resilience and beauty entwined for generations, from which giants have grown.
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Mississippi is home to the only GRAMMY Museum outside of Los Angeles, California
Soak up the vintage curios at the Shack Up Inn
THE MISSISSIPPI COUNTRY MUSIC TRAIL
Celebrating the state’s great contribution to country music, the Mississippi Country Music Trail honours legends like Jimmie Rodgers, Elvis Presley and Charley Pride. The trail features markers across the state, from Meridian to Tupelo, tracing the roots of country music. For travellers, the best way to experience it is by road, combining visits to historic sites, museums and live music venues. Along the way, you’ll explore just how blues, gospel and country music traditions all intersect.
5 HIGHLIGHTS NOT TO MISS…
1
Jimmie Rodgers Memorial Museum
Located in Meridian, the Jimmie Rodgers Memorial Museum honours the life and works of the ‘Father of Country Music’. Set within a 19th-century locomotive shed, the museum showcases Rodgers’ personal artefacts, including his iconic guitar, stage
outfits, and recordings. Visitors can immerse themselves in his pioneering blend of country and blues, and enjoy an intimate glimpse into the life of the man who forever changed American country music, inspiring generations to come.
2
Elvis Presley’s Birthplace
Scan to listen to some of Elvis Presley’s signature songs.
At 306 Elvis Presley Drive, Tupelo, sits the shotgun shack in which Elvis Presley was born and spent the first three years of his life. Built by Elvis’ grandfather and his dad, the wooden house is small: “You could fire a shotgun through the front door and out the back door without hitting anything in between,” explains Roy Turner, director of the Elvis Birthplace museum. Incredibly, Elvis’ childhood church has
birthplace
“So small you could fire a shotgun through the front door and out the back door and not hit anything in between.” Elvis historian Roy Turner on The
The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll cast in bronze at Elvis Presley’s Birthplace
King’s
been relocated to the museum’s grounds and meticulously restored to its former glory – with the notable addition of 270-degree projector screens that simulate services with Elvis in attendance.
3
Marty Stuart’s Congress of Country Music
In Philadelphia, Mississippi, Marty Stuart’s Congress of Country Music is an evolving museum and cultural centre, housing a collection of over 20,000 country music artefacts, from the rhinestoneencrusted stage costumes of the stars to iconic instruments. Here you’ll find the first black suit Johnny Cash performed in, the boots worn by Patsy Cline the day
she boarded her ill-fated flight, the handwritten lyrics to Hank Williams’ songs, and Marty Stuart’s first guitar. It’s more than a museum; visitors are treated to live performances and interactive explorations of country music’s history and deep influence.
MISSISSIPPI’S COUNTRY LEGENDS
Elvis Presley
The King of rock ’n’ roll surely needs no introduction. Elvis fused country, blues and gospel to revolutionise popular music. Born in Tupelo, Mississippi, he remains an enduring icon of American culture.
Jimmie Rodgers
Known as the ‘Father of Country Music’, Jimmie Rodgers brought folk, blues and yodelling together to craft idiosyncratic, timeless tunes. Born in Meridian, Mississippi, he paved the way for generations of country artists.
Charley Pride
Baseball player Charley Pride broke racial barriers in country music when he became the genre’s first Black superstar. At the height of his fame, in the early 1970s, he was even outselling Elvis.
Tammy Wynette
The ‘First Lady of Country Music’ was born in Tremont, Mississippi. Best known for her timeless anthem Stand by Your Man, Wynette’s heartfelt vocals captured the essence of country’s emotional depth.
4GRAMMY Museum Mississippi
Situated in Cleveland, the GRAMMY Museum Mississippi celebrates the state’s impact on American music. With interactive exhibits, rare memorabilia and cutting-edge technology, visitors can explore the history of the GRAMMY Awards and the evolution of blues, country, rock and pop. The museum features red-carpet outfits worn by the stars; an interactive
dance floor on which to learn routines; instruments played by everyone from B.B. King to Bruno Mars; and hands-on experiences, such as production pods where you can write, record, and produce your own country song.
5Sweetpea’s Table Restaurant
Sweetpea’s Table Restaurant, in the town of Olive Branch, delivers Southern hospitality and comfort food at its best. This charming spot is known for its fried catfish, hush puppies and sweet tea, embodying Mississippi’s culinary traditions. The warm, rustic décor adds to the homely feel, inviting guests to savour meals that are as comforting as they are delicious. With a menu steeped in Southern classics, Sweetpea’s Table offers a true taste of Mississippi’s food heritage.
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Photography; Visit Mississippi
The Elvis Guitar Trail in Tupelo
MAKE IT A ROAD TRIP
Day 1: Jackson to Meridian
Start your day with breakfast at Brent’s Drugs, a classic American diner and soda fountain that’s frozen in the 1950s. Then set out for Meridian, the hometown of ‘Father of Country Music’ Jimmie Rodgers. As you travel east on I-20, create your own country music playlist while quintessential Southern landscapes, thick with pine, maple and magnolia trees, roll past your window. You’ll have classic Mississippi sounds and scenes flooding your senses.
In Meridian, visit the Jimmie Rodgers Memorial Museum, a shrine to the man whose yodelling and heartfelt lyrics shaped the very essence of country music. His influence stretches from Hank Williams to Bob Dylan and beyond. The museum showcases Rodgers’ guitars, personal items and awards. To complete your tribute to this fine musician, don’t miss the nearby Jimmie Rodgers Memorial Marker on the Mississippi Country Music Trail.
After your museum visit, take time to explore Meridian’s charming downtown and the gleaming Mississippi Arts + Entertainment Experience (The MAX), a modern museum that dives into the state’s contributions to all forms of creativity. For dinner, head to Weidmann’s, a historic restaurant dating back to 1870, known for its Southern cuisine. Afterwards, rest up at the towering Threefoot Hotel (it’s far taller than the name suggests) for a stylish
Tupelo Hardware Co is said to be where Galdys Presley bought her son his first guitar
The grave of Jimmie Rodgers, often dubbed the ‘Father of Country Music’
Tupelo Hardware Co still sells classic guitars today
stay that harks back to the golden age of travel. Its vertiginous rooftop lounge offers spectacular views of downtown Meridian.
Day 2: Meridian to
Philadelphia
and Tupelo
Drive north to Philadelphia to visit Marty Stuart’s Congress of Country Music, which houses a big collection, including instruments and rhinestone-embellished costumes worn by icons such as Johnny Cash and Hank Williams. Stuart himself said:
“Country music has never been about glitter; it’s about grit,” and his museum offers an intimate look at the genre’s raw beauty.
Continue north, heading for the Tupelo Hardware Co – a cavernous store on Tupelo’s Main Street. “Everything is original, and still in the same spot it was back in 1941,” says the fourth-generation owner, George H Booth III. “That X on the floor marks the spot where Elvis stood on 5 January 1946 – right before his eleventh birthday – when his mother persuaded him to buy a guitar rather than a rifle.”
Amid shelves of hammers and nails, Tupelo Hardware still sells guitars and rifles, but — because of that decision in 1946 — today it also sells Elvis T-shirts and keyrings, and the walls on Main Street are livid with murals of The King.
Just a little way up the road, at the Elvis Presley Birthplace museum, is the two-room cabin in which Presley was born, as well as his childhood church and a former youth centre – funded by Presley himself – which has been converted into a museum and gift shop, filled with Elvis iconography and hip-swinging pendulum clocks.
In Fairpark – once the site of Tupelo’s fairgrounds – you’ll find a life-sized statue of Elvis, depicting the day he came to play his famous homecoming concert.
For dinner, head to Sweet Tea & Biscuits Café, known for its Southern comfort food. Spend the night, unburdened by heartbreak, at the Hotel Tupelo.
Day 3: Tupelo to Cleveland
In the morning, take a quick trip east to visit the Tammy Wynette Legacy Center
in her hometown of Tremont, which even has the imposing front gates of her former Nashville estate as an exhibit.
Heading back west, grab lunch at Big Bad Breakfast (where delicious biscuits and omelettes are available all day) in the charming town of Oxford, before making a quick stop at Charley Pride’s Trail Marker in Sledge, the small Delta town where Pride was born and raised before going on to
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Elvis’ 1956 Homecoming Statue in Tupelo’s Fairpark District
The GRAMMY Museum Mississippi in Cleveland
become one of country music’s greatest stars. Known for hits like Kiss an Angel Good Mornin’, Pride was a trailblazer for African American artists in country music.
Continue on to Cleveland to visit the GRAMMY Museum Mississippi, a must-see for music lovers. The museum celebrates the state’s rich contribution to American music, including country, blues and rock ’n’ roll. It offers an interactive experience where visitors can explore how Mississippi artists such as Tammy Wynette shaped the country music scene.
For dinner, stop at Hey Joe’s, a quirky spot that peddles smash burgers, ironic T-shirts and live music, then, take a walk through Cleveland’s scenic downtown. Afterwards, check into the Cotton House Hotel, a luxury boutique property that combines modern-day elegance with quaint Delta charm.
Day 4: Cleveland to Indianola and Greenwood
On your final day, journey deeper into the Delta, where the landscapes and stories that birthed both blues and country music intertwine. Start with a visit to Indianola, home of the B.B.
Hear the sounds of Delta life first-hand at Greenwood, former home of country star Bobbie Gentry
King Museum, to experience the connection between country and blues, as both genres often pull from the same emotional wellspring. While not strictly a country music destination, the museum offers a deeper understanding of the Delta’s cultural fabric, which nourished artists like Charley Pride.
the hit song Act Naturally, which was famously covered by none other than The Beatles.
Stop by the Indianola Pecan House to pick up some local sweets treats to fuel up on as you head to the Johnny Russell trail marker in Moorhead, where he was born and raised. Johnny went on to become a star of the Grand Ole Opry and a popular country recording artist, best remembered as the composer of
Greenwood was the childhood home of country star Bobbie Gentry, who brought the accents, sounds and imagery of Delta life into the haunting songs she wrote and recorded, to become one of the key country artists of the 1960s and ’70s. Check out her Mississippi Country Music Trail Marker before checking into The Alluvian Hotel in Greenwood, a luxury property that offers formal, Southern hospitality for a peaceful end to your journey through the roots of country music.
Tremont’s finest, Tammy Wynette, in her heyday
HEAR MISSISSIPPI LIVE
Mississippi’s live music venues pulse with energy, from converted warehouses to roadside juke joints and cosy cafés. These vibrant spots bottle the spirit of the state, offering visitors a taste of how locals unwind. Whether it’s a foot-stomping band or soulful solo, each performance is a window to another world.
Ground Zero Blues Club, Clarksdale
Founded in 2001 by actor Morgan Freeman and attorney Bill Luckett, Ground Zero Blues Club is a cornerstone of Clarksdale’s blues scene. Housed in a former cotton warehouse, it maintains a true Delta blues atmosphere with its mismatched furniture and beerstained pool tables, while the original interiors are scrawled in graffiti. Known for supporting rising blues talent, ensuring the tradition
continues for future generations, live bands play here from Wednesday to Saturday.
Hal & Mal’s, Jackson
Hal & Mal’s is a Jackson institution, founded by brothers Hal and Malcolm White in 1985. Located in a former warehouse, it’s a key cultural hub in Mississippi’s capital, hosting diverse live music. Known for its Southern food and laid-back-but-stylish vibe, Hal & Mal’s is also famous for events like the annual Hal’s St Paddy’s Parade. With performance spaces and strong ties to local artists, it is a beloved gathering spot for music lovers.
Smoot’s Grocery, Natchez
Smoot’s Grocery in Natchez is a historic juke joint that has been revived as a premier music venue. Originally opened in 1939, this storied space was a local hangout during the Jim Crow era. Today, it offers live music – ranging from blues to indie – in restored surroundings that preserve its vintage charm. Its location, near the banks of the Mississippi River, make it a fantastic stop for visitors wishing to experience authentic culture in an atmospheric setting.
Club Ebony, Indianola
One of the South’s most historic African American venues, Club Ebony was opened in Indianola in 1948. It has hosted some
The Ground Zero Blues Club was co-founded by Hollywood star Morgan Freeman
Ground Zero Blues Club
Club Ebony
of the biggest names in blues, including B.B. King. Known for its role in the growth of Delta blues, the club continues to host live gigs that honour the tradition of the genre. Now owned by the B.B. King Museum, it serves as both a live music venue and a tribute to Mississippi’s blues legacy.
LD’s Kitchen, Vicksburg
LD’s is a gem on the legendary Catfish Row in Historic Downtown Vicksburg. Blending soul food and live blues, it’s an authentic Mississippi juke joint, well known and loved for its relaxed atmosphere and friendly crowd. Blues musicians from across the region perform here on weekends, keeping the Delta tradition alive. With hearty dishes like fried catfish (pictured inset), chicken and ribs, LD’s Kitchen offers complete cultural immersion in the heart – and belly – of Mississippi.
Hey Joe’s, Cleveland
A hive for Mississippi hipsters, Hey Joe’s in Cleveland is a lively, eclectic venue that’s part bar, part live music hall and part restaurant. Known for supporting local charities and regional music acts, it serves as a community hub where college students, locals and tourists mix. The menu offers a mix of pub favourites, with burgers and salads named after grunge bands and ’80s movies, but it’s the music that draws the crowds.
The Lyric Oxford, Oxford
The Lyric Oxford was built in the late-19th century and began life as a livery stable. Converted into a silent movie theatre in the 1920s, it was abandoned in the ’70s, becoming a residential and office space in the ’80s, The Lyric Oxford was finally restored and reopened in 2008, transformed into one of the state’s favourite live music venues. Close to historic Oxford Square, it now hosts a variety of performances, from country to comedy, in a setting with top-tier acoustics.
The Lyric Oxford
Sunset in historic Natchez
A riverfront mural at the legendary Catfish Row in Vickburg
Hal’s St Paddy’s Parade in Jackson
FEEL MISSISSIPPI’S PULSE
Mississippi knows how to party. Its festival diary is as diverse and welcoming as its people.
From the Juke Joint Festival in Clarksdale, which honours the Delta’s rich blues legacy, to the Mississippi State Fair in Jackson, with its pageants and livestock
shows, the state offers vibrant events yearround. Festivals such as the Natchez Balloon Festival and Biloxi’s Crawfish Music Festival showcase the state’s love of food, art and outdoor adventure, but it’s Mississippi’s music that always takes centre stage.
April: Juke Joint Festival, Clarksdale
The Juke Joint Festival, held each April in Clarksdale, Mississippi, is a celebration of authentic Delta blues, attracting music lovers from around the world. Over 100 local and international artists come to perform in
Clarksdale’s many iconic juke joints, including Red’s Lounge and the historic New Roxy Theater, and on outdoor stages around town. Labelling itself ‘part music festival, part smalltown fair’, it also hosts vendor booths and food trucks, plus incongruous events like a petting zoo and – bizarrely – pig racing.
April: Double Decker Arts Festival, Oxford
The Double Decker Arts Festival – named after the double-decker bus that Oxford, MS, imported from England in 1994 – is a springtime celebration of art and music. Held
Alamy; Visit Mississippi;
Candice Kalb
The Juke Joint Festival is a celebration of Delta blues music in Clarksdale
Red’s Lounge
Cedric Burnside [left] performs in downtown Clarksdale at the Juke Joint Festival
in April, this festival showcases live music from Mississippi’s best talents and national artists, plus food trucks and over a hundred art vendors. Set against the picturesque backdrop of Oxford’s historic Courthouse Square, what started out as a small festival, using the bed of a pick-up truck for a stage, has grown into one of the state’s most popular events, attracting around 60,000 visitors.
June: B.B. King Homecoming Festival, Indianola
The B.B. King Homecoming Festival in Indianola is a celebration honouring the King of Blues. Held annually in June, this event takes place in B.B. King’s hometown and features live performances from local and renowned blues musicians. It culminates
with a show at the historic Club Ebony, a legendary venue where King himself often performed – and later bought. Visitors can also explore the B.B. King Museum to gain deeper insights into the defining legacy of one of the world’s greatest bluesmen.
June: Elvis Festival, Tupelo
The Tupelo Elvis Festival is a lively annual tribute to the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll, held in the city where Elvis Presley was born. Each June, fans from around the world gather to celebrate with concerts, Elvis tribute act competitions and events that reflect Elvis’ life and legacy. Visitors can also explore the Elvis Birthplace Museum while they’re there, which offers a glimpse into his humble beginnings. This festival blends nostalgia
with vibrant music, and it is essential for any Elvis enthusiast.
August: Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival, Clarksdale
Held every August, the Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival features a soulstirring line-up of blues legends and gospel choirs, transforming Clarksdale’s streets into a musical haven. This free festival, founded in 1988, is deeply rooted in the community and attracts music enthusiasts from all over the world. It’s a perfect blend of gritty blues and uplifting gospel, making it a unique musical experience in the heart of the Delta.
September: Delta Blues & Heritage Festival, Greenville
The Delta Blues & Heritage Festival in Greenville is Mississippi’s longest-running blues festival, dating back to 1978. Held each September, it celebrates the rich Delta blues tradition with performances from legendary artists and emerging talents. The festival showcases soulful blues alongside vibrant displays of local culture, food and crafts, bringing together fans who come to revel in the history, sound and soul of the blues, right where it all began.
The Elvis Festival in Tupelo
Blues musician Bill Abel performs at the Sunflower Blues and Gospel Festival in Clarksdale
TRIP PLANNER:
Brazil
From 3km-wide waterfalls to opera houses in the jungle, we plot the best routes to experience Brazil’s wildlife, history, cities and Indigenous cultures
Words Alex Robinson
Space-age cities and the Pantanal
Lose yourself in the vast wetland habitats of the Pantanal and Brazil’s eccentric capital
Best for: Wildlife, light adventure, river snorkelling and Brazilian architecture.
Why go? To overwhelm your senses in South America’s goldstandard wildlife destination, to swim in crystal-clear rivers and to feel tiny next to Oscar Niemeyer’s monumental buildings.
Route: Cuiabá; the Pantanal; Chapada dos Guimarães; Nobres and Brasília.
TV shows by the dozen have showcased Africa’s lion-teeming Serengeti plains. But no less wonderful or less wildlife-filled is Brazil’s Pantanal. This UNESCO-listed, Ramsar-protected wetland is larger even than Great Britain. It’s where to go if you really want to stand a chance of seeing jaguars in the wild.Along the way, you’ll find giant anteaters, rheas – South America’s ostrich-equivalent –plenty of other cats (from the moggy-sized jaguarundi to the labrador-sized ocelot) and wild animals you’ve probably never heard of.
The birdwatching is superb, with raptors on every other fence post, metre-long indigo-blue macaws nesting in the ipê trees and myriad waterbirds – from man-sized jabiru storks to tiny hummingbirds.There are two main airport entry points – Campo Grande
early morning and late afternoon, when the nocturnal animals (like cats and anteaters) are still active.The temperature is cooler at this time, and the Pantanal looks at its most beautiful, with the sun on the horizon, red as a blood orange, silhouetting branchperched hawks and wading herons.
Pantanal horses are smaller than the European varieties; they are docile, well treated, well fed and used to carrying tourists, so you won’t need any previous riding experience to enjoy a horse safari.
in the southern Pantanal (where transfers into the Pantanal are pricey) and Cuiabá in the north (where prices are lower but visitor numbers are heavier). Both are small state capitals – of Mato Grosso do Sul and Mato Grosso respectively. There’s little to keep you in their urbanity, so head directly from the airport to one of the working fazenda ranch houses, which serve as bases for exploring the wild.
In both its northern and the southern reaches, the Pantanal is fringed with low tabletop mountains, where the ancient, rain-worn rock leaches almost no sediment. As a result, the rivers that run off it are as clear as mineral water.They also offer superb snorkelling. Use the city of Nobres (in the north) or the town of Bonito (in the south) as access points.
Ask a local
The Pantanal has two seasons: the dry season between April and October and the wet from November to March. Both are great for extraordinary photographs, but it’s during the dry season when you’ll see the most animals.This is when the Pantanal’s seasonally flooded lakes and gallery forests shrink and the wetlands become a landscape of open savannahs dotted with lakes and cut by meandering rivers and stands of low cerrado woodlands pinked with trumpet trees and purpled with jacaranda. In dry season, you’ll see plenty of animals from the pool at your fazenda or on the paths connecting your bungalow and the main ranch house, but it’s the hikes, 4WD rides and horse safaris that get you into the heart of it all.
Pantaneiro cowboys still access the wilds on horseback, and this is one of the best ways to penetrate the wilder stands of woodland and wetland, cover a decent distance and chance upon animals that are wary of the noise of 4WDs.The best times for a ride are
Colours of the Pantanal (this page; clockwise from top) The endangered Lear’s macaw; the glittering-bellied emerald hummingbird forages for nectar on flowering plants; the giant anteater can weigh up to 50kg; (opposite page; clockwise from top left) brycon can jump out of the water to pluck fruit and seeds from low-hanging trees; conservation projects allow people to see wild jaguars at the Encontro das Águas State Park; the Modernist 7,000 sqm Alvorada Palace in Brasília was built in just two years
“People forget that Central Brazil is where the Pantanal meets the Amazon. There are so many animals unique to this transition zone. I particularly love heading into our forests in the early morning to spot the ultra-rare Tapajós saki, which is only found in the buriti palm forests around the Tapajós and Madeira river tributaries. They’re such gentle animals – and a key disperser of rainforest seeds.”
Raquel Zanchet, executive director of the Jardim da Amazônia Lodge conservation project (jardimamazonia.com)
Top 3 experiences
1
Snorkel the glass-clear rivers of Bonito and Nobres
Swimming the rivers of Bonito or Nobres, surrounded by myriad silversided, salmon-like dourado, is magical.
The easiest way to do this is to visit the southern Pantanal, using the touristy town of Bonito as a gateway.The infrastructure here is excellent and there are many rivers to snorkel, the best being the gentle Rio Sucuri or the faster-flowing, more adventure-focused Rio Formoso (with ziplines and tubing). In the stands of cerrado woodland around the rivers, you will probably see mammals like paca and agouti (which look like doe-eyed long-legged guinea pigs).
Bonito is around a 2.5-hour transfer from the southern Pantanal.
In the north, it’s just over a three-hour transfer from the heart of the Pantanal to the tiny town of Nobres.Tourism here is less developed than in Bonito, with less infrastructure; however, there are far fewer visitors, which means the rivers are quieter and the wildlife less disturbed. Nobres also has more freshwater stingrays than Bonito.
2
Spot jaguars in the wild
Both the southern and northern Pantanal give you some of the best chances of seeing jaguars in the wild, as well as so much more. In the south, stay at Caiman (caiman.com.br), where the pioneering Onçafari conservation project has fostered a healthy population of jaguars and turned cattle ranchers from poachers into gamekeepers.
Caiman is an expensive 3.5-hour transfer from Campo Grande airport. It’s less than a tenth of the price to take the public bus from Campo Grande’s bus terminal (20 minutes from the airport by cab; Brazil widely uses Uber) to the town of Miranda, where representatives from Caiman will meet you.
In the north, combine your ranch stay with a full day’s jaguar safari in Encontro das
Águas State Park (book as a package through companies such as theearthtrip.com). Here you can find never-persecuted wild jaguars strolling the banks of the rivers in search of prey.The distance between Cuiabá and the northern fazendas is similar to the south, but transport costs are cheaper.
3Lose yourself in Brasília
To reach the Pantanal, Nobres and Bonito from anywhere else in Brazil, you will probably have to change planes in Brasília, the country’s capital.This is a blessing because it’s an extraordinary place, so be sure to take a day here.The city was purpose-built in four years (1956–1960), heralding a new age of technocratic advance and symbolising then-president Juscelino Kubitschek’s promise to bring ‘50 years of prosperity in five’. It was conceived by urban planner Lucio Costa and landscape artist Roberto Burle Marx, with stark, monumental Modernist architecture by Le Corbusier protégé Oscar Niemeyer.
The result is an extraordinary 1950s vision of the future. Tower-block-high white concrete triangles, coronas and domes dominate vast squares. Ministry buildings hidden behind diaphanous marble screens glow amber in lilypad-dotted reflection ponds. Avenues are big enough to land a spaceship on. But it’s pure idealism. There are no sidewalks, and the myriad workers transported in to erect this Jetson-age concrete vision in wild scrubland were never paid enough to get back home.They settled in sprawling city-sized satellite suburbs and their lives still orbit the capital.
São Paulo, Minas and the gold rush towns
Soak up the art and music scene in South America’s megalopolis and marvel at the wild mountains of Minas Gerais
Best for: Art, music and fine dining, Brazilian Baroque churches and unique wildlife. Why go? Brazil meets itself in the world-class city of São Paulo, the de facto capital. Here you can enjoy the best music, art and foodie scene; Move on to explore Minas Gerais, Brazil’s literary capital, with unique music, the finest Baroque-style architecture in the country and lesser-tramped wilderness areas. Route: São Paulo; Belo Horizonte; Ouro Preto and Congonhas; Diamantina; Serra da Canastra; Serra do Ibitipoca.
“Rio is a beauty, but São Paulo is a city,” said the actress Marlene Dietrich. South America’s greatest metropolis may lack Rio’s stunning landscapes – stretching as it does in interminable concrete and heaving with traffic – but this is the country’s economic and cultural engine.Whether you’re in business, music, architecture or art, if you want to make it in Brazil, you head here.The city has the best music scene in South America, and countless bars and clubs scatter neighbourhoods such as Itaim Bibi,Vila Madalena and Consolação, offering everything from Brazilian jazz to favela funk. If you get a chance, spend at least a day in São Paulo.Take a city tour that includes at least one of the fabulous art galleries, skyscraper-lined Avenida Paulista and the Altino Arantes Building (Farol Santander). Arrive at the latter just before sundown for São Paulo’s best view – the city spread beneath you like a Cyclopean circuit board – as blocks of vast rectilinear white and orange towers are cut into sections by roads of streaming traffic. Helicopters whirr, the occasional vulture floats past and neon blinks everywhere.
Immediately to the north of São Paulo is Minas Gerais state. Here, rolling hills peak in a series of craggy mountains before running to huge areas of threatened cerrado forests and the northern scrubland sertão desert. Minas is the lyrical heart of Brazil.The country’s greatest sculptor, O Aleijadinho, left his effigies and decorative carvings on the magnificent Brazilian Baroque churches of Minas’s gold-rush mining towns Ouro Preto and Congonhas. Brazil’s greatest writers – the poet Carlos Drummond de Andrade and João Guimarães Rosa – wandered the cobbled streets of Minas’s sleepy hamlets and rode horses in the wild backlands.The country’s most acclaimed contemporary musician Milton Nascimento began life singing in village church choirs and the clubs of
Minas’s arty capital, Belo Horizonte. Pele was a Mineiro. So was Juscelino Kubistcheck – the president who created Brasília.
Belo Horizonte is your entry point, and it’s worth a night here to see Oscar Niemeyer’s buildings in Pampulha and to sample the music scene in the city’s boho Savassi neighbourhood. But Minas’s heart is rural. Head to the 18th-century mining villages of Ouro Preto and its neighbour Congonhas, or Diamantina. Explore Franciscan churches with painted ceilings and ornate sculptures. Wander markets and cobbled streets and find a botequim bar playing live music.
Minas’s wilds are harder to reach but are worth the effort, especially the Serra da Canastra hills in the south-west and the wildlife-rich tabletop mountain of Ibitipoca in its south-east, home to the Americas’ rarest primate, the muriqui.
Ask a local
Vibrant cultural heritage (this page; clockwise from top) Belo Horizonte’s Modernist Church of Saint Francis of Assisi was built in 1943; the Altino Arantes Building was inspired by the Empire State Building; samba music originated in the Afro-Brazilian communities; (opposite page; clockwise from top left) the MAM in São Paulo’s Ibirapuera Park; Ouro Preto dates to the 17th-century gold rush; the northern muriqui is the largest extant New World monkey; Aleijadinho’s 1766 Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
“Nothing is more Paulistano than a local bar or bakery. Madureira is both, and it’s set within the Ibirapuera Park, which is dotted with iconic Niemeyer buildings and galleries. It’s a São Paulo mustsee, which makes Madureira the perfect spot to begin the day with a delicious al-fresco breakfast or end it with petisco bar snacks washed down with an icy beer or cocktail.” Ale Ribeiro, fashion designer for the Ale Ribeiro brand, São Paulo
Top 3 experiences
1
Savour São Paulo’s art scene
São Paulo’s art scene is South America’s most vibrant. Galleries like Millan and Choque Cultural showcase the best of Brazil’s emerging contemporary and street artists. MAC has an important collection of Latin American and international contemporary art (with pieces by Modigliani, Chagall and Picasso), the Museum of Modern Art (MAM) showcases Brazilian Modernism, and the Pinacoteca is home to a historic collection of paintings running from 19th-century colonial through to theTropical Modernism of the Anthropofagists – including Anita Malfatti and Tarsila do Amaral, who cannibalised European art and reconstituted it as Brazilian using striking colours and organic forms.
São Paulo’s artistic jewel in the crown is the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP), the finest collection of Old Master European paintings in the Southern Hemisphere, collected by newspaper mogul Assis Chateaubriand in the 1950s and housed in a striking Brutalist building by Lina Bo Bardi. A new 14-storey wing is due to open in 2024, enabling visitors to see paintings long buried in the museum’s huge archive.
2 Wander the Brazilian Baroque churches of Ouro Preto
It’s a quintessentially Brazilian story: the country’s greatest sculptor, Antônio Lisboa,
was the son of a Portuguese architect and an enslaved African. His greatest works adorn churches where Black Brazilians were prohibited entry. And as a boy, Antônio caught a debilitating disease which left him so badly maimed that he had to work on his knees and back with chisels strapped to his paralysed hands. He was known as O Aleijadinho (‘Little Cripple’).
You can see Antônio Lisboa’s passionate, mannerist sculpture in the glorious Francis of Assisi church in Ouro Preto and the Stations of the Cross in Congonhas.They’re perhaps the greatest of any produced in the 18th-century Americas – agonised prophets so expressive that their features and limbs are distorted; a St Francis redolent with gentle compassion. Disguised within the decorative images is subtle social commentary and references to theTiradentes revolutionary movement against the Portuguese. Look closely at the faces. Like those painted by Lisboa’s contemporary Mestre Athayde (also in Ouro Preto’s Francis of Assisi church), they are white but with unmistakeably Afro-Brazilian and Indigenous features – especially in the hair and the eyes.
3 Spot maned wolves and endangered monkeys
Tucked away in the south-eastern corner of Minas (within easy access
of the airport in Juiz da Fora city) is one of Brazil’s wildlife secrets – the Ibitipoca tabletop mountain. Dripping with clear water streams and rivers that cascade in glorious waterfalls, and graced with cloud forests, jungles, grassy savannahs, rocky escarpments and gorges guarding myriad micro-climates, it is a habitat heaven.
This is one of the last homes of the largest monkey in the Americas: the muriqui.You may also spot rare maned wolves, pumas and endangered birds including the vinaceous-breasted Amazon parrot, the stripetailed yellow-finch, blue-winged macaw and the endemic white-bellied warbler.
There’s comfortable accommodation in four remarkable locations: the beautiful Portuguese colonial main ranch house set near a rushing mountain stream; cottages in the rehabilitated savannah village; the rainforest reserve lodge; and the mountain hut, located in the heart of the cloud forest.
⊲
Alamy: Alex Robinson
The south: waterfalls, surf and coastal rainforest
Brazil’s south is wilder than you think… and it has waterfalls and surf that will take your breath away
Best for: Waterfalls nearly 3km wide, tubing waves and coastal rainforests.
Why go? To see the thundering Iguaçu falls, which spans two countries; to catch Brazil’s best waves; and to discover a beach in the heart of a huge coastal rainforest reserve.
Route: Curitiba; Serra da Graciosa; Paranaguá; Ilha do Mel, Foz de Iguaçu; Florianópolis; Santa Catarina Island.
“Poor Niagara,” Eleanor Roosevelt reputedly said when she saw the Iguaçu Falls for the first time.They’re nearly twice as tall as their North American counterpart and over three times as wide. It is appropriate, then, that Iguaçu translates as ‘great water’. But while Niagara is fringed with casinos and malls, Iguaçu’s environs are still wild, dwelling deep in a rainforest park larger than Greater London. Jaguars and pumas prowl here (they’re a relatively common nocturnal sight on the park roads), and you will see myriad racoon-like coatimundi, monkeys, toucans, hummingbirds and flocks of trilling parakeets as you walk the extensive trails. The falls straddle the border between Brazil and Argentina, lying just upstream from the Paraná River and the frontier with
Paraguay.There’s plenty to see, and you need to get your logistics right, so you should allow at least two days for a visit. It’s a taxi ride between all the hotels (but one) and the falls, so you are best off pre-booking a guided tour. Make sure it takes in both sides of the border. Start with Brazil, whose trails run to the base of the Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s Throat), where the Iguaçu river thunders over a steep-sided gorge.Then visit the Argentinian side, which is both better for wildlife and is reached via a purpose-built tourist railway. Boardwalks span the river and take you to the top of the Garganta, as well as running around dozens of ancillary waterfalls.Take the rest of your stay to ride a boat up to the base of the falls and to walk the lesser-known trails in search of primates.You can also visit the triple frontier on the Paraná River, where Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay meet.
Encompassing three Brazilian states, there’s much more to the south of the country than Iguaçu. Santa Catarina Island, near the city of Florianópolis (it has easy connections by air to the rest of Brazil), is fringed with glorious surf beaches.These are reached on paths that clamber over forested ridges and drop through small fishing communities.
Surf-friendly Ilha do Mel island in Paraná sits at the heart of a vast and important stretch of mangrove and Atlantic coastal rainforest, which runs around the Paranaguá Bay.The whole area is protected via a series of national parks and is also a UNESCOWorld Heritage
Riding a wave (this page; top to bottom) Brazil’s surf scene rose to prominence in the 1970s, when local Pepe Lopes won the surf tour’s first-ever event in Rio, but the south is where those in the know head; the coastal paths of Ilha do Mel make for a bracing escape; pumas still roam the vast Atlantic Forest; (opposite page; clockwise from top left) the Iguaçu Falls system consists of 275 waterfalls, with 80% found on the Argentinian side; Iguaçu is nearly 3km wide; Santa Catarina Island is a mecca for surfers
site. Many endangered endemic plants and animals live among these forests, including tiny black-faced lion tamarin monkeys (which were first documented in 1990), the red-tailed Amazon parrot (which, despite its name, is only found in south-east Brazil) and a gamut of sought-after wildlife sightings, including jaguar, puma and tapir.
While getting into the heart of the wild will involve bespoke boat hire, Ilha do Mel is easy to reach.The best way to arrive is to first take the Serra Verde Express train through the Serra do Mar mountains from Curitiba (which is well-connected to the rest of the country by air and has an impressive Oscar Niemeyer architecture museum).The train ride is the most spectacular in Brazil, passing thick cloud forest, crossing dizzying viaducts and offering sudden views of deep gorges and high peaks before arriving at Paranaguá, from where there are regular ferries to Ilha do Mel.
Ask a local
“I love Guarda do Embaú beach. It’s on the mainland, just south of Florianopolis city, and it gets far fewer visitors than the other beaches. To reach it, you have to either take a little boat or swim across a small river. You arrive amid 5km of golden, talc-soft sand; there’s also surf and sheltered shallow areas for great swimming, plus great hikes to viewpoints in the hills. Come during the week, when it’s almost deserted, and you will avoid the weekender crowds.”
Gardenia Robinson, co-author of Footprint Brazil guidebook
Top 2 experiences
1
Marvel at Iguaçu Falls with few others around
Belmond’s Hotel das Cataratas is the only accommodation located right next to Iguaçu Falls. It charges premium rates – and for good reason.The parks on both sides of the Brazil-Argentina border close just before sundown, and the only visitors permitted to remain inside are guests of the hotel. So, if you do stay, you can get the falls pretty much to yourself at sunset, and usually entirely to yourself under moonlight or at the crack of dawn, when only the most intrepid rise.
The falls lie right across from the hotel’s front lawn, as is the trailhead to the base of the Garganta do Diabo. Having such privileged access to one of the natural world’s greatest wonders is well worth splashing out on. And by sheer proximity, guests are also arguably more likely to see a big cat on the access roads around the hotel at night.
2
Surf the beaches of Santa Catarina Island
There’s good surfing at Itacaré in Bahia and on Rio’s beaches, but it’s only on Santa Catarina that the surf is reliably world class.The island is in a prime position for the south-south-east swells that thunder into its shores. Joaquina is the most famous beach among surfers here, but it can get crowded. If you prefer your waters less busy, Imbituba, Garopaba and Guarda beaches back on the mainland tend to be less popular (especially outside weekends and Brazilian holidays).
There are surf camps for beginners all over the island, and its beaches invariably have accommodation.Visit between April and October for the most powerful, reliable swells and smallest crowds.You’ll need a wetsuit though; this is the southern winter. During this period, the sea can be cold, while the average air temperature peaks at 20ºC in July – which is freezing by Brazilian standards.
Bahia and the north-east
Amid the white sands, carnivals and Afro-Brazilian rhythms of the north-east, you’ll find the heart of traditional Brazil
Best for: Music, talc-soft sands, dance and an abundance of Afro-Brazilian verve
Why go? Relax on the beautiful beaches of north-eastern Brazil, where the country began. Dance and soak up the Afro-Brazilian culture in Brazil’s original capital, Salvador, which preserves the largest Baroque-style colonial centre in the Americas. Watch sunrise over the lake-dotted dunes of the deserts of Ceará and Maranhão. Route: Trancoso; Salvador; the Chapada Diamantina; Patacho beach; Recife and Olinda; Pipa, Jericoacoara; Lençóis Maranhenses National Park.
Brazil’s north-east is South America’s Caribbean.With its deserted beaches, whales calving offshore, manatees drifting the rivers and huge swathes of primary tropical coastal rainforest, it doesn’t disappoint. It’s also an Afro-Brazilian heartland, thanks to Salvador having been the main hub for the approximately 5 million enslaved Africans brought to Brazil between the 16th and 19th centuries.This is where samba was born and where African rituals and rhythms are still kept alive. France-sized Bahia state is also where Brazil began in 1500, when Pedro Álvares Cabral and AmerigoVespucci (who gave his name to the continent) landed near modernday Trancoso village. Even Charles Darwin marvelled at the rainforests and wildlife around Salvador – Brazil’s first capital.The city still looks glorious, perched on a high ridge overlooking a wine-glass bay sprinkled with islands. Gold-glittering Brazilian Baroque churches and ancient cobbles clamber over the hills.The streets below throb with African drums, capoeira dancers whirr in the old colonial squares, and the annual Mardi Gras carnival is second in size only to Rio’s. A short flight (or long bus ride) inland from Salvador, there’s great hiking to be
found deep in the waterfall-lined mountains of the Chapada Diamantina.And in southern Bahia, where the coastal rainforests meet the ocean, you’ll find the best beaches in South America. Stay in modishTrancoso, which has the cream of the continent’s high-end beach boutiques.These typically dwell in coconut glades or among the colourful colonial cottages of the pretty village square.
North of Bahia, Brazil’s north-eastern coast seems to stretch through endless coconut-shaded sands in the states of Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco. At Patacho beach in Alagoas, rivers run into the aquamarine Atlantic, offering some of the best chances anywhere of seeing manatees in the wild.The bell towers of beautiful 17th-century churches ring out from the twin cities of Recife and Olinda in Pernambuco; these towns also boast the most traditional of the large Mardi Gras carnivals in South America, as well as wonderful Afro-Brazilian music. And in Rio Grande do Norte state, Pipa has a hippy-chic beach vibe and a string of classy boutique hotels and farm-to-table restaurants.
In Ceará and southern Maranhão, windswept dunes mark an area of coastal ‘deserts’ that fringe this north-eastern region.They are most spectacular in the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, which is pocked with thousands of turquoise lakes that appear between May and September.
There are nine states in Brazil’s northeast. Bahia alone is larger than France, so you can’t take in the whole area in a single
Moving with the times (this page; clockwise from top) Trancoso was a simple fishing village until the 1970s, when the counter-culture moved in – now its colourful cottages have become rather on-trend, and the town even featured in a Beyoncé video; the Sé Cathedral in Olinda was founded in the 16th century; (opposite page; top to bottom) Salvador’s Pelourinho neoughbourhood was the former capital’s centre during the colonial period; Afro-Brazilian culture in Salvador; the lagoons of Lençóis Maranhenses
visit, but don’t miss Salvador and the Chapada. And for the best beaches, choose Trancoso or Jericoacoara (both with easy flight connections). From the latter, it’s easy to organise a spectacular wild-coast transfer overland and into the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, from where short transfers to São Luis city (265km away) connect to onward flights.
Ask a local
“Bahia has great beaches, amazing food and astonishing architecture, but it’s also the cultural heart of Brazil. I love browsing São Joaquim market and hopping across to Maré Island for seafood. Top of the list is the historic town of Cachoeira in the Recôncavo region. Arrive in time for the lively Festa da Boa Morte parades in the second week of August; these are held by a female lay order that was instrumental in abolishing slavery in Brazil.”
Xênia França, Grammy Award-winning singer and composer from Salvador
Alamy; Paulo Nepomuceno; Shutterstock
Top 3 experiences
1Salvador’s capoeira, Candomblé and Portuguese colonialism
Salvador assails the senses with its warm, buttery tropical light and brightly painted buildings.As you wander its streets, the scent of mangoes and frangipani wafts from leafy cobbled squares, while the sizzling acarajé (Brazilian falafel) served by Afro-Brazilians in colourful bustle-skirts at street stalls in the historic Pelourinho district seduces the nostrils. Brilliant-white yachts speckle the deep blue of the bay, parakeets flit between branches and tiny marmoset monkeys trill overhead. It’s enough to overwhelm you. It takes at least a day to soak-in this complicated city, then it’s time to explore the magnificent rococo-style churches, the most spectacular of which is the 16th-century Franciscan monastery. Pause to watch a martial-art-cum-dance capoeira show (there are always performers in the cathedral square), then discover the lasting importance of the spirit-religion Candomblé in local culture at the Afro-Brazilian museum.This religion still permeates life in Bahia, and it is
Brazil’s counterpart to the Afro-Caribbean Santería that is prevalent in Cuba.
2Revel at Recife’s traditional carnival Carnival is not limited to Rio; there are Mardi Gras parties all over Brazil, and Salvador hosts the second-largest around, with huge processions, dancing, leaping and marching through the city’s old colonial centre, accompanied by giant floats topped with kitschy pop bands. It’s great fun; however, if you want to see a genuine, more traditional carnival, head to the twin cities of Recife and Olinda in Pernambuco state.
The two cities are charming neighbours. Coastal Recife wraps around a series of little estuaries, while the former Portuguese colonial city of Olinda (whose name translates as ‘Oh! Beautiful’) perches on a tree-covered
hill a stone’s throw away.This is carnival as it used to be – long before TV sponsorship and paid tickets changed everything.
The myriad styles of traditional music and dance are a joy to behold, with huge maracatu drum orchestras marching through the city squares around Recife’s waterfront. Impossibly acrobatic dancers in swirly dresses jump and reel across the cobbles while clutching miniature frevo umbrellas, falling into the splits and then leaping as high as gymnasts. And in Olinda, house-tall, swaying mamulengo puppets grin and twirl through the narrow, brightly painted streets and up over the hills.
3See dawn over the Lençóis Maranhenses
It could almost be the Sahara. A vast orange sun rises over a sea of rippling sand that flows wind-blown to every horizon. But there are no lakes in the Sahara. In the coastal desert of Maranhão’s Lençóis Maranhenses, seasonal lagoons paint the valleys between the dunes deep turquoise. There’s nothing quite like waking in the velvety dark of your pousada (inn), walking to a high crest for the golden dawn and then skipping down the dune side and plunging in for an invigorating swim before breakfast.
The lençóis (aka sheets, a poetic description of the silky dunes) are easy to reach.You can transfer into the small access towns of Barreirinhas, Santo Amaro or Atins from the airport in Maranhão state capital São Luis, or take a more adventurous overland 4WD ride along the beaches and over the backwaters from the little resort village of Jericoacoara, just across the state border in Ceará.
The Amazon: rivers, rainforests and Indigenous cultures
Paddle 30km-wide rivers with Indigenous guides under vast, endless skies
Best for: Primordial wilderness that makes you realise just how small you really are. Why go? Outside the poles, Siberia and the Sahara, there is no other wilderness on Earth to compare with the Brazilian Amazon. At times, you can find yourself more than 1,000km from the nearest road, touching trees that no human has ever laid their hands on before.
Route: Manaus and the Rio Negro; Belém and Marajó island; Cuiabá and the Mato Grosso Amazon; Santarém and the Tapajós valley.
The world’s greatest rainforest isn’t limited only to Brazil. But it is only here that you will experience the full scale of the Amazon’s rivers, its vast horizons and its endless green immensity.The numbers are worth savouring.The Brazilian Amazon holds the largest area of protected rainforest in the world (the 60,000 sq km Amazon Conservation Complex); the river itself hides an island larger than Belgium in its mouth; and of the Amazon’s 1,100 tributaries, the Rio Negro measures some 30km wide at its largest point, just north of Manaus, and hides an archipelago of more than 400
rainforest-covered islands within its tea-black waters.The scale is almost mind-boggling. The Amazon’s biodiversity – some 10% of the world’s total – is just as impressive but you’ll struggle to see much of it; the forest is too huge a hiding place. Nonetheless, you can expect to see river dolphins, caimans and various monkeys, as well as scores of spectacular birds, from fishing hawks to huge macaws. And while the further you go from the cities, the more wonders you will see, even here the Amazon is far from empty of humans; an estimated 200 Indigenous groups have managed the forest for millennia.Visit the jungles with them as guests to ensure your money goes directly to supporting Indigenous-run businesses.
There are four principal access points to the Brazilian Amazon, which can all be linked together if you want to explore it in depth. The easiest to reach is Manaus in Amazonas state, despite this city of some 2 million people largely being isolated from the rest of Brazil by road.The best of the short and long river cruises leave from here, deep in the central Amazon, with many of them going up the 2,250km-long Rio Negro, which meets the Amazon proper in Manaus.
The best jungle lodges are found in Mato Grosso state in the southern Amazon; these are typically reachable either from the cities of Cuiabá or Alta Floresta.The wildlife guiding and facilities at lodges such as Cristalino (cristalinolodge.com.br) are among the
Wild Brazil (this page; top to bottom) Brazil is home to around a quarter of the planet’s primate species; Marajó in Para state is the world’s largest marine-fluvial island, meaning it was formed from sediments deposited in the river; a broad-snouted caiman; (opposite page; top to bottom) Saru runs trips deep into the tributaries of the Amazon, where few other tour operators penetrate; the water buffalo of Marajó were said to have found their way there by accident, but they have become an integral part of local life
best in the world, though the rivers here are smaller and the landscapes less dramatic. Pará state, where the Amazon meets the Atlantic, offers different experiences to those of Manaus or Mato Grosso.Access is through two beautiful, if frayed, former Portuguese colonial cities, Belém and Santarém, which are connected to Manaus and the rest of Brazil by air. From the former you can reach the island of Marajó, which is fringed with mangroves and long stretches of sand. Santarém lies an hour from the gorgeous village of Alter do Chão,which sits over a halfmoon strand of bone-white beach, amid a sapphire-blue river fringed by cerrado woodlands and vast stands of ancient rainforest. Regular flights on the principal Brazilian carriers connect the Amazon cities with the rest of the country (usually with a change of plane in São Paulo or Brasília). Alta Floresta is reachable from Cuiabá.
Ask a local
“All my life, I have slept out in the forest, sometimes in the remotest locations. I still find waking in the morning to the Amazon dawn chorus to be completely magical –something a visitor shouldn’t miss. After the adrenaline of the night, you wake to a symphony of living nature: the call of songbirds, the chorus of parakeets and macaws, the sound of river dolphins coming up for air, the chirrup of foraging monkeys and, sometimes, in the distance, the haunting dog-like bark of a jaguar marking its territory.”
Saru Mundurukus, Indigenous Amazonian guide
Alamy; Alex Robinson; Shutterstock
Top 4 experiences
1
Visit the Amazon with an Indigenous-owned tour operator
The Amazon is no empty wilderness.There were people living here nearly 10,000 years before Stonehenge. Brazil is home to some 260 Indigenous nations today, and there are companies throughout the Amazon Basin offering experiences with them. But the only Indigenous-owned and -run tour operator in the Brazilian Amazon is that of Munduruku guide Saru, who recently appeared in Robson Green’s Into the Amazon TV series. He offers bespoke wilderness experiences that he has grown to love over a lifetime.
You’ll learn how to fish, use a zarabatana blow pipe and find medicinal plants, as well as how to feel the wilds as he does. All trips begin and end in Novo Airão village, a couple
of hours from Manaus by car, and travel through the Anavilhanas archipelago and up into a string of the lesser-visited tributaries, creeks and flooded forest areas off the Rio Negro. Contact iurys_didier on Instagram, call +55 92 8540 5367 on WhatsApp, or approach through UK representative The EarthTrip (theearthtrip.com) to book a trip.
2
Meet buffalos in the rainforest
No one is quite sure how Asian water buffalos ended-up on Marajó island, in the mouth of the Amazon. According to one story, they were being transported to southern Brazil to produce mozzarella when the shoddy ship carrying them hit heavy weather off the coast of Pará; it sank, and the buffalos swam to safety.Today, they are part and parcel of rural life around the tiny towns of Souré and Salvaterra – the local police even patrol on buffalo back.
Locals make cheese from buffalo milk, and you can visit both the Marajoara cheese factory and a buffalo farm, as well as taste the cheese menu. It’s great fun, and these bovines make for particularly placid ⊲
companions. Organising a trip to Marajó is easy. Journeys begin in Belém, and trips can be organised with Rumo Norte Expeditions (rumonorte.com), who can also arrange small hotel stays or homestays on the island.
3
Hear opera in the rainforest
During the late-19th-century rubber boom, under the governance of Eduardo Ribeiro, Manaus was one of the richest cities in the world. It was during this period that the streets began to fill with handsome Belle Époque-style mansions, while atop the low hill overlooking the river was built an astonishing Italianate domed opera house called theTeatro Amazonas.The great Neapolitan tenor Enrico Caruso even sang Ponchielli’s La Gioconda at its opening night in 1897. Sadly, theTeatro fell silent when the shortlived rubber boom ended – after HenryWickham smuggled rubber plants to London, allowing the British to begin growing them in India and East Asia. Having shut its doors in 1924, the opera house didn’t reopen until
1997, following a major refurbishment. It’s a grand sight, complete withVenetian Murano glass chandeliers and painted stage curtains by Crispim do Amaral depicting the allegorical figures of the rivers Negro and Solimões (Amazon) embracing in Manaus. Today, the Teatro is home to its own orchestra (the Amazonas Philharmonic) and the world-class Festival Amazonas de Ópera (March–May).
4 Takeamulti-day wildlife rivercruise
The best wildlife cruises leave from Manaus or Santarém. Most journeys from the former take a few days to visit theAmazon around Manaus and the lower Rio Negro, reaching the southern end of the Anavilhanas islands.The riverscapes are spectacular, and you can see caimans, dolphins and myriad waterbirds. Journey Latin America (journeylatinamerica.com) are a reliable operator when it comes to booking smallboat cruises here.The boats are comfortable double-decker river cruisers with space for a dozen or so in their handsome wooden cabins. But most of these forests are well-tramped by humans; to get further afield,you’ll need a guide like Saru (see No 1). Trips out of Santarém come in two varieties: day journeys across the blue RioTapajós to wild beaches and the huge Tapajós River National Forest, or multi-day excursions along smaller tributaries such as the Arapiuns.These can be organised through Rumo Norte Expeditions (rumonorte.com).
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Alamy
Tasteful Manaus (this page; top to bottom) The pink river dolphins of the Rio Negro are known locally as botos; Manaus was called the ‘Paris of the Tropics’ in the late 19th century, when the Amazon rubber boom fuelled the ambitions of its citizens, who built elegant townhouses lit by electricity (the only city in Brazil to have it at the time) and grand buildings such as the Palace of Justice and Teatro Amazonas opera house [pictured], whose grand dome is made of 36,000 tiles
Rio de Janeiro & the Green Coast
Explore the city of carnival and samba, then escape to the historic towns and pristine islands of the Green Coast for peace and quiet
Best for: Impressive wild and urban views, light hikes, coastal wildlife and beaches. Whygo? Hike, paddleboard and surf by day in Rio, then samba dance the night away at a club in Lapa. You can spot unique birds and primates in pristine forest, stroll to remote beaches on car-free Ilha Grande, or explore the wilderness around the Portuguesecolonial town of Paraty.
Route: Rio de Janeiro; Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu (REGUA Reserve); Ilha Grande; Paraty.
Whether it’s the sound of The Girl from Ipanema oozing from a beachside bar, the swing of samba, the roar of a football crowd in the Maracanã stadium or the sight of cable cars rising up Sugarloaf mountain, few places capture South America’s natural beauty and easy-going exuberance like Rio. And all this is crowned by a giant statue of Christ watching from on high. It takes at least 48 hours to explore the city’s must-sees. Allow a half-day just to visit the Christ the Redeemer statue (reached by funicular railway from the station in the CosmeVelho neighbourhood) and Sugarloaf mountain (buy tickets at the cable car
station in Urca), then spend the morning or afternoon hiking or biking inTijuca National Park, whose toucan-filled forests swathe the mountains that run through the centre of Rio.
Next, it’s time to explore some of Rio’s secrets.Take a tour of the UNESCO-listed old Afro-Brazilian sites in the city centre, where Rio samba and carnival began. Later, you can finish the day with a night of live music in one of the clubs that cluster around the arches of the historic Lapa aqueduct. There are plenty of side trips too. Hike the hills and beaches of southern Rio on theTranscarioca trail, stopping at the Roberto Burle Marx gardens,created by the landscape architect who worked on designing the outdoor spaces of Brasília, Brazil’s purpose-built capital, in the 1950s. Or you can birdwatch in the REGUA Reserve, set in a wild stretch of the Atlantic Forest, a vast rainforest biome that runs to the coast and is home to more than 1,000 endemic bird species. If it’s raining, browse Rio’s historic churches,which include São Francisco da Penitência, decorated by one of colonial Brazil’s greatest artists of the Baroque style, Francisco Xavier de Brito. Rio is not just a city; it’s also a state – one rippling with wild mountains. Along the Green Coast to Rio’s south, forest-covered ridges run to a bottle-green ocean breached by rugged islands.The best of these is Ilha Grande, a two-hour drive south of the city and an hour’s boat ride from the coast. There’s only one tiny town, Abraão (where
most of the simple hotels lie) and no roads. Trails lead through the rainforest to spectacular beaches such as Lopes Mendes, or climb past waterfalls into the mountainous interior. Further along the Green Coast is the delightful old Portuguese gold port of Paraty.Whitewashed belltowers and stately 17th-century townhouses – many of them converted into boutique hotels and restaurants – sit over rough flagstone streets that run to a harbour busy with small fishing boats.
The mountains of the Serra do Mar state park frame the town’s horizon, while islands fringed with golden beaches lie offshore.You can visit the latter on boat trips,which can be organised through your hotel or at Paraty’s quayside.There’s great hiking on the nearby Ponta da Juatinga peninsula,whose forests are pristine enough to house wild tapirs, pumas and jaguars.You can even see their paw prints on the lonelier stretches of beach.
Ask a local
“My hidden treasures in Rio are the islands of Gigóia and Primeira. Here you can take a boat tour around lush mangroves and spot broadsnouted caimans and capybaras in the wild. It’s the perfect escape, offering great seafood restaurants and nature just steps away from the city buzz. They are easy to visit on a day tour from Rio, yet few tourists ever make it there – they’re a genuine Carioca secret.”
Rodrigo Braz Vieira, owner of bespoke tour company Bravietour (bravietour.com.br)
Alamy; Shutterstock
Green city (this page; top to bottom) Rio is the heartbeat of football in Brazil and is home to teams such as Flamengo, Fluminense, Botafogo and Vasco, as well as the Maracanã stadium, a 78,000-seater cathedral to football where the national team play; the church of Santa Rita in Paraty was built in 1722 as a place where freed persons of mixed Black and white ancestry could worship; the cable car to Sugarloaf mountain (396m; pictured), which began operating in 1912, begins atop Morro da Urca (220m)
Alamy
O jogo bonito (clockwise from left page) Locals play football on Ipanema beach in the shadow of the Morro dos Dois Irmãos; the best way to escape the crowds and grab a view of Rio all to yourself is to book a flightseeing helicopter tour; the view from the Pico do Papagaio over the green spine of Ilha Grande is incredible, a pristine island whose historical reputation as a pirate’s lair, then leper colony, then penitentiary kept its forests untouched
Top 3 experiences
1
Watch the sun sink behind the Christ statue from Sugarloaf mountain
The Sugarloaf is really two boulder mountains.The summit of the lower hill, Morro da Urca (220m), can be reached by cable car; you can also get there on foot via the Claudio Coutinho trail that leaves fromVermelha beach. Look out for kitten-sized marmoset monkeys in the trees on your way up.
The higher peak – Sugarloaf (396m) itself – can only be reached by cable car from Morro da Urca.The views from both are spectacular, but they are at their best just before and after sunset. As the light deepens behind the Christ statue in the distance, Rio twinkles into neon life behind the myriad bays and mountains. It’s a magical sight.
2
Hike to the Pico de Papagaio on Ilha Grande
Crowning Ilha Grande island, surrounded by dense jungle, perches a bizarre, jutting rock known as parrot (papagaio) peak – named because of its similarity to a bird’s head.You can reach it on a tough trail that cuts along beaches and over rocky peninsulas before winding sharply into the island’s thick forest, then climbing a precipitous, waterfall-fringed path.
At times, the going is almost vertical, and you’ll be drenched in sweat by the time you reach the top. But the views will leave you gasping. From atop Papagaio, the island’s ridges drop at your feet to the ocean, where strings of islets run north to a long sand bar and the distant boulders of Rio itself.
The hike takes around half a day. It’s a tough scramble, and you’ll need plenty of water, sunscreen and insect repellent. But don’t attempt it without a guide; tourists have been known to find themselves lost for days in Ilha Grande’s central jungles.
3 Take a helicopter ride over Rio’s skyline
It’s all about the views in Rio: looking down from the foot of the Christ statue or along the 4km-long sandy stretch of Ipanema and Copacabana to the mountains, or out from the terraces of Aprazível restaurant, cocktail in hand, with Rio at your feet.There is always something to catch the eye.
But the best views of all are from inside a helicopter above the city’s bays, islands and boulder mountains as you swoop over the Sugarloaf and hover above the head of the Christ statue. Flights cost from around £100 for 20 minutes and leave from the shore of the heart-shaped Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon (falcontaxiaereo.com.br). If you’re a keen (and fearless) photographer and book ahead, they’ll even take the helicopter doors off.
Need to know
When to go
Brazil encompasses a number of time zones and climates. In the south and south-east, the weather turns chillier from April until October, which is dry season in the Pantanal Bahia and the northeast are warm all year round but wettest between April and July. The Amazon’s wet season is between December and June, with many areas flooded from April until August. The rivers fall between October and February, exposing sandy beaches.
Getting there & around
If your first stop is Rio or São Paulo, take one of the daily direct flights from Heathrow with British Airways (ba.com) or LATAM (latamairlines.com). These cost from £577 return and take around 12 hours. If heading to the northeast, save yourself long transit times and transfers within Brazil by flying with TAP (flytap.com) via Lisbon, which connects to most of Brazil’s state capitals in around six to eight hours.
Brazil is vast. A dozen airlines shuttle from city to city, via the hubs of São Paulo, Brasília and Rio. Journey times vary between an hour (São Paulo–Rio) and more than four hours (Rio–Manaus).
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Rio de Janeiro produces around 920kg of carbon dioxide per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on finding one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ inspiration/sustainable-travel.
Currency & visa
Currency: Brazilian Real (BRL), currently BRL7.21 to the £UK. Visa: Not required for UK and Irish nationals for stays of up to 90 days.
Health & Safety
You will require yellow fever vaccination and malaria prophylaxis to visit the Amazon.
Further information
Visit the Brazilian Tourist Board website at visitbrasil.com
Get to know a different side to South Africa in
KWAZULU-NATAL
From Zulu culture to luxurious safari lodges and picturesque hiking trails, KwaZulu-Natal promises unforgettable adventures steeped in history and nature
While South Africa’s east-coast province of KwaZulu-Natal is known for its sun-splashed beaches and lush sub-tropical shoreline, there’s far more for visitors to discover in the ‘Zulu Kingdom’.
Tap into the multicultural energy of Durban before heading inland to the rugged peaks and rewarding hiking trails of the Drakensberg mountains. Thereafter, discover gourmet delights in the cosy country restaurants of the Midlands, or head further north to delve into the turbulent history of the province’s historical battlefields.
However you spend your days, you’ll be greeted with wide smiles and warm welcomes as you discover the many cultural and natural charms of this historic province.
Durban city and surrounds
The third largest city in South Africa and home to the country’s largest population of South African Indians, Durban is a cultural metropolis where the Indian Ocean still happily takes centre stage. You’ll find locals and tourists riding the waves of North Beach, or you can simply throw out your beach towel on the golden sands
and watch them at play. Wandering the 8km seafront promenade is another fine way to get a sense of the city.
To the north of town, the Moses Mabhida Stadium is the go-to for a unique day out, with Segway tours and a thrilling aerial walkway to get your blood pumping. But Durban is also rich in culture and history. The Victoria Street Market is a colourful cacophony of spice and lively souvenir traders, and it speaks to the city’s proud Indian community. It’s also a great place to grab a delicious ‘bunny chow’, the city’s popular street food, which consists of a half-loaf of white bread that’s been hollowed out and filled with sugar beans, butter chicken, moong dal or –the classic – mutton curry.
Book a tour with in-the-know operators such as Wild Routes Africa
Natural light (opposite page) Take the time to learn about and appreciate Zulu heritage, including traditional dances; (clockwise from top left) Durban’s Moses Mabhida Stadium adds an iconic curve to the skyline; observe hippos enjoying a cooling dip at the Bananango Game Reserve; the Golden Mile in Durban is popular with surfers; when in Durban, try ‘bunny chow’, the city’s famous street food
to get under the skin of the city and learn about Durban’s history, Indigenous culture and foods. If time allows, head out of town to Aliwal Shoal for memorable scuba diving, or visit the Valley of a Thousand Hills to enjoy a taste of rural Zulu culture.
Where to stay
For picturesque stays, head to Ballito for the glorious seaside setting of Sala Beach House. Alternatively, soak up the vintage glamour of The Oyster Box Hotel at uMhlanga.
North Coast/ Maputaland
In contrast to the energetic bustle of Durban, the lush coastline of the North Coast and Maputaland showcase a different side to KwaZulu-Natal.
Start at the laid-back holiday town of St Lucia, gateway to the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. The latter became South Africa’s first World Heritage site in 1999 and offers a wonderland of ecosystems. Take a game drive through the lush Cape Vidal section to spot elephants, rhinos and antelopes, or head out onto the waters of Lake St Lucia for sightings of crocodiles, hippos and palm-nut vultures.
Makakatana Bay Lodge offers memorable waterside accommodation on the western shore of the park, as well as lots of activities. The birding there is especially good, with more than 500 species sighted in the area.
At Sodwana Bay, you’ll find one of Africa’s most iconic scuba-diving spots. You can also take a nighttime tour to seek out the loggerhead and leatherback turtles that come ashore to nest and lay eggs. Here, you’ll also find Thonga Beach Lodge, which offers luxurious beachfront suites and immersive marine nature tours.
On your way to Kosi Bay, detour inland for a taste of country hospitality at Ghost Mountain Inn. When you do eventually reach the coast, you’ll discover a remarkable ecosystem, with boat and kayak tours of the region’s lakes offering a glimpse of the traditional Tsonga fish traps still in use.
Midlands
The KwaZulu-Natal Midlands offer the perfect opportunity to slow things down. Just a 90-minute drive north of Durban, the bucolic landscape of lush farmlands and quaint villages is set against a glorious backdrop of the Drakensberg Mountains.
The town of Nottingham Road is the heart of the region and home to a smorgasbord of foodie attractions. Sip on local craft beers at Nottingham Road Brewing Company, try local
cheeses at Indezi River Creamery and work your way through the area’s menu of charming country eateries.
There’s history to discover in the Midlands, ranging from the Howick uMngeni Museum to the Hilton Station Railway Museum. And don’t miss the striking Nelson Mandela Capture Site, where a monument and small museum unpacks the events that followed Mandela’s capture outside Howick by police in August 1962.
Where to stay
Stay the night at Granny Mouse Country House & Spa, where 32 luxury rooms sit on the banks of the Lions River. It has long been famous for its food too: sample laid-back plates in the Bistro or seasonal fine-dining at Eaves Restaurant. To balance that indulgence with a little wellness, look to visit Fordoun Hotel & Spa, where you’ll find African-inspired treatments and a traditional African healer.
Drakensberg
It’s impossible not to be impressed by the soaring mountains that stretch along the western edge of KwaZuluNatal, rising from the rolling hills of the grassland to form a jagged skyline of towering peaks.
Taking the time (this page; clockwise from top left)
The Drakensberg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the Nelson Mandela Capture Site unpacks the events following his capture in 1962; the beautiful Thonga Beach Lodge lies in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park
While early settlers saw in these ridges a ‘dragon mountain’ – or ‘Drakensberg’ – the Zulu people first called these mountains uKhahlamba (the ‘barrier of spears’). You’ll be awed by this remarkable range, which was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000.
The Drakensberg is crisscrossed by well-maintained hiking trails, ranging from half-day ambles to multi-day adventures. If you’re new to the ‘Berg’, a good starting point is the Royal Natal National Park in the north. It’s here that you’ll find the iconic Amphitheatre, a wall of basalt that stretches 5km across and peaks at around 1,200m high. Tumbling off the top of the Amphitheatre, the Tugela River forms one of the world’s highest waterfalls, plummeting about 850m on its race towards the Indian Ocean.
The Drakensberg abounds with charming hotels, inns and lodges that blend mountain scenery with history and fine food. At Spionkop Lodge and Three Tree Hill, you can delve into the Anglo-Boer War history of the region against a Drakensberg backdrop, while Montusi Mountain Lodge is the perfect base for exploring the northern ’Berg on a variety of mountain adventures.
Further south, close to central Drakensburg’s scenic Giant’s Castle, chef-patron Richard Poynton welcomes travellers to Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse for a gastronomic discovery of KwaZuluNatal’s best produce.
Battlefields in Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift
As peaceful as KwaZulu-Natal may seem today, turn back the clock 150 years and these hills were alive with the scent of gunpowder and the clash of iron spears on cow-hide shields. The battles that raged between the Indigenous Zulu chiefs and the British colonial forces and the ‘Boer’ armies led to decades of conflict.
While there are battlefield sites and monuments across the province, perhaps the two most famous AngloZulu sites are to be found south of the town of Dundee. The British defence of the Rorke’s Drift mission station allegedly saw 150 British troops ward off an attack by up to 4,000 Zulu warriors. Those fighters had marched from the nearby mountain of Isandlwana, where the British armies were soundly defeated.
To fully understand the context of these battles – and others, such as the Anglo-Boer Battle of Blood River – it’s best to travel with an expert local guide. Fugitive’s Drift lodge offers charming country accommodation not far from the key battle sites, and it has entertaining guides adept at bringing the human drama of these historic battles to life.
Safari reserves and national parks
Along with urban thrills and coastal charms, KwaZulu-Natal is a hotspot for ‘Big Five’ safari adventures. With many of the province’s game reserves also located in malaria-free areas, it’s ideal for family travellers
Superlative safaris (this page; clockwise from top) Cheetah are just some of the wildlife you can see on safari in Nambiti Private Game Reserve; Zulu jewellery comprises colourful beads with each colour carrying a specific meaning; KwaZulu-Natal is an ideal spot for malaria-free safari adventures
and those wanting to avoid having to take malaria tablets while on holiday. If that sounds like you, then head for the central regions of KwaZulu-Natal, where the likes of Nambiti Private Game Reserve and Babanango Game Reserve offer luxury safari lodges and an immersive ‘Big Five’ safari adventure. Babanango, a bold project rewilding a vast tract of savannah grasslands and mist-belt forests using land largely leased from surrounding communities, is also a shining example of local people and conservation working in partnership.
Where to stay
If you’d rather self-drive, head to the Cape Vidal section of iSimangaliso Wetland Park, outside St Lucia, or discover the iconic HluhluweiMfolozi Park. The latter is the oldest proclaimed reserve in Africa – first established in 1895 – and famous for its protected herds of white rhinos, along with its large herds of antelopes and elephants.
The
winners return
The Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year 2022 prize winners are back from their commission to Singapore. Here’s what took their eye...
Photographs Scott Antcliffe, Gail Johnson & John Seager
The flash of a neon dragon hauled on sturdy shoulders; hard-eyed glares from mystical statues atop the roof of the city’s oldest Hindu temple; a futuristic light show illuminating the immense steel trunk of a 50m-high ‘supertree’.We sent the winners of our 2022 Wanderlust Photo of theYear competition on a commission to Singapore to see how they would capture its urban wonders.They didn’t disappoint.
Singapore is a rare city indeed, built with a cosmopolitan eye on the long term. In 1822, governor Sir Stamford Raffles set aside the entire area west of the Singapore River to become a Chinese settlement, in anticipation of an influx of workers.Today, the city’s Chinatown is still a dream for photographers, as our competition winners Scott Antcliffe and John Seager found when they trained their lenses on the hip-and-gable roofs of the BuddhaTooth Relic Temple or the dragons and lanterns that filled the streets as Chinese New Year erupted all around them (p228, 230 & 235).
It’s not just Chinese influence that makes this city a melting pot. Gail Johnson switched her focus to the old Muslim Quarter, Kampong Gelam, training her eye on the Sultan Mosque (p231), a magnificent, golden-domed relic of the rule of Hussein Shah, the first Sultan of Singapore.These days, the area is a melange of upmarket cafés and boutiques, but in the perfume shops of Arab Street or the glint of a golden minaret, the camera can still discern its hidden past.
moving image of a local man attending prayer at the BuddhaTooth RelicTemple (p235). Many of the shots that our winners took play on the collision between old and new that makes Singapore so intriguing to first-time visitors. Scott’s nighttime aerial shot of the General Post Office Building (now the Fullerton Hotel) shows a 1920s Neoclassical beauty surrounded by the twinkling skyscrapers of the modern city (p224–225), while his image of the BuddhaTooth RelicTemple blurred by the light trails of fizzing traffic (p230) shows the constant push and pull of tradition and modernity you see all over this dizzying city.
Need to know
“Singapore is a rare city indeed, built with a cosmopolitan eye on the long term”
This is evident even in Gail’s sunset shot of Marina Bay (p228) – a historic port area that was expanded down the decades, as 360 hectares of waterfront was reclaimed across 50 years. In the hazy image of the magnificent Moshe Safdie-designed ArtScience Museum, built in the shape of a lotus flower, you can see a snapshot of a city challenging itself to become something new. Of course, nowhere are Singapore’s futuristic leanings more apparent than in the Gardens by the Bay. Its ‘supertree’ structures – great biospheres in the sky – took the eye (and breath) of Gail in particular, who captured them from a number of angles (p229 & 232), including at night when these colossal steel structures are lit up like an otherworldly jungle beamed in from a hundred years from now. In a city that often blends nature and urban magic, there are few more fitting images.
The same goes for Serangoon Road, the heart of Little India, where both Gail and John were drawn to the ornate sculptures that decorate the five-tiered roof of the Hindu Sri MariammanTemple (p227 & 231), built not long after the East India Company established Singapore as a trading hub. Like the historic Sultan Mosque, these buildings are still important places of worship, where culture and history collide – as captured in John’s
How to enter…
If you want to follow in Scott, Gail and John’s footsteps, our competition for 2025 is changing.We have just launched the first edition of Wanderlust Visions 2025, our new-look ‘Travel Photography and Video of theYear’ competition, where the winners could bag a seven-day commission to Türkiye (Turkey). So, what are you waiting for? Enter now! Visit wanderlustmagazine.com for more details.
When to go
Singapore is a yearround destination. The temperature averages around 30ºC throughout the year, but humidity is at its lowest between February and April. It is driest and sunniest from June to August, which also coincides with peak season. If you’re keen to avoid the crowds, head there between September and November, though the annual Singapore Grand Prix (3–5 Oct 2025) is one of the busiest times of the year, so is best avoided if you’re not there for the racing.
Getting there & around
Return flights from London Heathrow to Singapore Changi airport with Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) start from £509 and take around 13 hours. Changi airport has been voted the best in the world by Wanderlust readers multiple times, and it’s worth arriving early just to wander its various gardens and the 40m-high indoor waterfall (see p233). Singapore has a modern, fast MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) railway system. Pick up a Singapore Tourist Pass (STP), which gives you unlimited travel for one (£10), two (£14) or three days (£17)
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Singapore produces 1,084kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. To find one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ inspiration/sustainable-travel.
Visa & currency
Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 30 days.
Currency: Singaporean dollar (SGD), currently around SGD1.71 to the UK£
Further reading & information
Head to visitsingapore.com for further details about planning a trip to Singapore.
The photographers
Scott Antcliffe (@ scottantcliffephoto)
Gail Johnson (@gailsgallery)
John Seager (@mister_seager)
City snapshots (this page; clockwise from top left) The roof of the Thian Hock Keng Temple, Singapore’s oldest Chinese Hokkien temple, at dawn; Fuk Tak Chi Museum occupies the site of a shrine set up between 1820 and 1824 by Cantonese and Hakka immigrants; the entrance to the Hindu Sri Mariamman temple is topped by five tiers covered in sculptures of deities and mythological figures; the Singapore Botanical Gardens has around 3,000 species of tropical and subtropical plants, and it is a joy to stroll; (previous spread) an aerial shot of the eclectic skyline of Singapore after dark
A festive time (this page; top–bottom) The Chinese New Year celebrations (dragons were everywhere in 2024!) invade every corner of Chinatown, even the Buddha Relic Tooth Temple; back in the 19th century, Marina Bay was a port where immigrants, visitors and heavy cargo ships would unload, but an ambitious land reclamation plan turned it into one of the most architecturally ambitious areas of the city, now home to some incredible buildings, including the flower-like ArtScience Museum [centre]; (opposite page) the Gardens by the Bay evening light show turns its ‘supertrees’ into dazzling spectacles
Looking to the past (this page; clockwise from top left) Kampong Gelam is historically the Muslim Quarter of the city, with buildings such as the Sultan Mosque [pictured], built by the first Sultan of Singapore, offering a glimpse into its long heritage; the exquisitely designed Sri Mariamman is Singapore’s oldest and largest Hindu temple – be sure to stick around for its fire-walking festival (Theemithi) in autumn; locals take full advantage of the city breeze to test their kite-flying abilities; (opposite page) traffic streams past the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, which houses what is thought by Buddhists to be the left canine tooth of Buddha
A window on the city (this page) Peering through a port-hole-shaped window across to the ‘supertrees’ of the Gardens by the Bay, which tower up to 50m high and lure visitors aplenty; (opposite page) one of the more incredible sights at Changi Airport is the Jewel Rain Vortex, the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, housed within a glass structure designed by the architect Moshe Safdie. Standing at a height of 40m, it utilises rainwater runoff collected via the building, which means that during a heavy storm you can see some 38 cubic metres of water crash down into the
splash pool below every minute
The red city (clockwise from top left) Given nearly three-quarters of Singaporeans have some Chinese heritage, Chinese New Year is naturally a huge event here, with lanterns decorating nearly every inch of Chinatown and around the Hongbao River, where you’ll find ornate displays and plenty of vendors serving up tasty treats; a man attends morning prayer at the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple; the fish body of the Merlion fountain in Marina Bay is meant to symbolise Singapore’s humble origins as a fishing village, while its head represents the city’s original name of Singapura (‘Lion City’ in Sanskrit)
Building blocks (this page; clockwise from top left) Singapore’s Chinatown dates back to the early 19th century, when Sir Stamford Raffles allocated the whole area west of the Singapore River to become a Chinese settlement; it might look like a blast from the past, but the Buddha Tooth Relic temple only opened in 2007; the Raffles Hotel was built in the 1830s as a seaside home, though it got a lavish makeover some 50 years later that turned it into something akin to the building you see now, making it the toast of colonial Singapore; one of the more well-defined statues that scatter the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Celebrations in in
Taiwan’s calendar is bursting with events in every season. With fireworks in spring, lantern displays in winter and so much in between, there are surprises to discover, whatever time of year you visit
FULL GUIDE TO TAIWAN’S FESTIVALS
It was around the time that a trio of pink-haired women walked past in pleated skirts and carrying bejewelled swords that we realised that perhaps this wasn’t a normal day. My mother and I were at the Pier-2 Art Center in Kaohsiung, a city in Taiwan’s south, and we had stumbled into what appeared to be an anime festival. Mando rock shook the redbrick walls of former factories; a giant yellow transformer statue glowered overhead. We weaved through crowds of cloaked wizards and warriors, and
through a corridor of street-food stalls soaked in the syrupy-garlicky scent of rice-pork sausages and bubble tea. We emerged onto a park where Japanese steam trains once hauled in freight. Now, between railways, hulking art installations cast silhouettes, families dotted the lawn and a swarm of kites danced across the orange sky.
The people of Taiwan, like one of their tapioca desserts, are both sweetness and warmth. They’re also a mixture: of Indigenous Tribes and of those descended from Chinese,
SPRING FESTIVALS
According to the traditional calendar, spring in Taiwan begins on the first day of the Lunar New Year. It’s a time of renewal, with cherry blossoms in bloom, the sky ablaze with lanterns and truckloads of fireworks purifying the air
Japanese and European settlers. This is reflected in their multi-faith temples, in their riotous night markets and in their cuisine. But to truly understand Taiwan, go to a festival – you’ve plenty to choose from, as the calendar is packed year-round. From the Dragon Boat Festival in summer to the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival in winter, each season offers something unique. And with Taiwan’s outstanding travel infrastructure, it’s never been easier to get around.
Written by: Sarah Gillespie
Lunar New Year
When: January or February, depending on the lunar calendar Where: Nationwide
Taiwan’s most significant holiday is marked by parties all over the country, with some of the biggest celebrations in Kaohsiung and at Taipei’s Longshan Temple. Residents enjoy an extensive public holiday (usually around seven days) and they use that time to visit family. In Taipei, locals flock to Dihua Street, an old shopping street dating back to the 1850s, festooned with paper lanterns, to stock up on dried ingredients and sweets.
On New Year’s Eve, families eat a dinner of dishes that symbolise longevity and prosperity, such as dumplings, nian gao (sticky rice cakes) and noodles. These foods can also be found at night markets. The next morning, families go to their local temple to pray and make offerings. As the day progresses, food and flowers pile up and the air is thick with incense. Throughout the holiday season, dragon and lion dances take place, with jingling lion masks and more than a dozen dancers controlling the sinuous movements of fabric dragons. Head outside the temples to watch the dances take place.
New Year, old traditions (clockwise from far left) Fireworks fly out of The Taipei 101 skyscraper to celebrate New Year; prayers and offerings at temples as part of the Lunar New Year celebrations; Dihua Street is lit up with paper lanterns in the lead-up to the Lunar New Year
Feast your eyes (this page, clockwise from top left) Locals feast with their families, choosing foods that symbolise prosperity; visit Taiwan in spring to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom; thousands of lanterns are released during the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival; attend a traditional drum performance
Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival
When: 15th day of the Lunar New Year (February/March)
Where: Pingxi, New Taipei City
How to get there: Train from Taipei
The district of Pingxi is the site of one of Taiwan’s most photographed festivals. 15 days into the lunar year, visitors gather in the towns of Pingxi and Shifen to write their wishes and prayers on rice paper lanterns, then release them into the air. Before long, thousands of lanterns fill the night sky. People have been releasing sky lanterns here since the Qing Dynasty, when villagers escaped bandits by
fleeing to the mountains. The sight of lanterns hovering over the village was their signal that it was safe to return. Take your time, as there’s plenty to do here: ride the old rail line, view the Shifen waterfall and meander around the old towns, sampling Taiwanese sausage and grilled squid.
Yanshui Beehive
Fireworks Festival
When: 15th day of the Lunar New Year (February/March) Where: Yanshui, Tainan
How to get there: High-speed rail to Tainan, then a local bus or taxi
On the same day as the Lantern Festival, some 300km south of Pingxi, the Beehive Fireworks Festival takes place. Named after the beehiveshaped tower at its heart, it’s renowned as one of the world’s most dangerous festivals. Attendees don fireproof suits and helmets and light firecrackers in the street or watch as the tower spews fireworks in every direction. The festival originated in the late 19th century, when Yanshui residents were plagued by a cholera epidemic. Calling on the gods, they paraded a palanquin of Guan Yu, the god of war, through the streets, and ignited firecrackers to ward off the evil spirits responsible for the plague. This apparently worked, and the people of Yanshui have continued to set off fireworks ever since. While there, be sure to try Tainan delicacies such as milkfish soup and danzai noodles.
Spring highlights Spring highlights
1
Ride a steam train through a sea of cherry blossoms
Taiwan turns pink with cherry blossoms in spring. A prime viewing spot is the Alishan National Scenic Area, where around 30 varieties, including the famed Taiwan cherry, cover the mountains from mid-March. Ride the forest railway, with its steam engine and hinoki-wood carriages.
2
Meditate at a monastery Just outside Kaohsiung is Fo Guang Shan: one of the world’s largest monasteries, with the planet’s largest bronze sitting Buddha statue at 108 metres high. Though you can visit at any time of year, special events – such as calligraphy exhibitions, dharma services and lantern parades – take place during the first lunar month.
3
Catch the waves in Kenting
Cultural highlights (this page, top to bottom) The Fo Guang Big Buddha is the tallest sitting bronze Buddha statue in Asia at 108m; at the Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival, firecrackers are lit to ward off evil spirits; mooncakes are a local delicacy eaten during the Lunar New Year; parcels of sticky rice cake
The brilliant white beaches of Kenting National Park, on Taiwan’s southernmost tip, are nationally beloved. Spring is the ideal time to hit the surf, with the most consistent waves in April. Not a surfer? Lace up your hiking boots and stomp along Kenting’s well-marked trails, such as the Sheding Nature Trail.
4 Explore the ‘garden of Taipei’ Yangmingshan National Park, right outside Taipei, is known for dramatic steam vents and hot springs – but it truly shines in spring, with cherry blossoms, azaleas and calla lilies all in bloom. Drop by the Floriculture Experiment Center – a favourite wedding photo spot – and admire camellias, maple trees and conifers, to name but a few.
SUMMER FESTIVALS
Summer is the hottest and most humid time of year. The rice paddies of the East Rift Valley become green and lush, signalling the beginning of harvest season and its accompanying rituals and festivals. Taiwan’s Indigenous Tribes give thanks through dance and song – while in cities, dragon boats race to the pounding of drums
Dragon Boat Festival
When: Fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar (late May/ early June)
Where: Nationwide
The exact origins of the Dragon Boat Festival are shrouded in mystery – some say that it grew out of summer festivals to honour the river dragon and request a plentiful harvest. But during the Warring States period, these celebrations became associated with Qu Yuan. This patriotic poet and court official lived in the state of Chu, and wrote what are now considered some of the greatest poems in the Chinese language. In 278 BC, driven to despair by imperial corruption and the resulting capture of the Chu capital, Qu Yuan drowned himself in the river Milou.
According to legend, farmers rowed out in dragon boats to try to save Qu Yuan’s life, thus beginning the modern Dragon Boat Festival. Despite their sombre origins, these races are noisy and colourful, with companies, universities and professional rowers all competing for prizes as they row to a rolling drumbeat. Celebrations take place across the country, but the most wellknown are at Taipei’s Dajia Riverside Park and Kaohsiung’s Love River.
The dish most associated with the Dragon Boat Festival is zongzi: a sticky rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaves and filled with meats and beans. They represent the drowning of Qu Yuan, as they are cooked by dipping them in boiling water.
Summer fun (
) Summer festi-
are
clockwise from top
vals
filled with bright costumes, singing and dancing; sample zongzi, a sticky rice dumpling packed inside a bamboo leaf; watch the bright boats during the Dragon Boat Festival
Penghu International Fireworks Festival
When: Late May to early July
Where: Penghu archipelago How to get there: Fly to Magong, or ferry from Kaohsiung or Chiayi
About 50km from the west coast of the main island, the 90 islands of the Penghu archipelago draw visitors year-round for sailing and seafood, such as grilled squid and oyster omelettes. Yet another reason to go is for the annual fireworks festival, most of which takes place in Magong, Penghu’s only city. On the harbour in front of the Guanyin Temple, dazzling firework displays are set off throughout
the month, reflected in the bay’s still mirror and soundtracked by live music from Taiwanese bands and singers. In addition, one-off shows take place on Penghu’s smaller islands.
Taiwan International Balloon Festival
When: June to August
Where: Luye Highlands, Taitung
How to get there: Train to Taitung, then shuttle bus to Luye
One of the world’s top balloon festivals takes place deep in the highlands of Taitung, a region known for Indigenous culture and traditions. Both local and international pilots attend, bringing
balloons of unusual shapes and colours such as cartoon characters and steam trains. A flight over the county is an unforgettable experience, with views over mountains, tea plantations and rice paddies. At the Night Glow concert series, live performances take place alongside balloon presentations and drone light shows.
The Amis Harvest Festival
When: July to September
Where: Several villages across the country, but mostly in Taitung How to get there: Train to Taitung, then a local bus or taxi
The Amis are the biggest Indigenous group in Taiwan, with a substantial number living in Taitung County. This festival marks the end of the harvest season, when the community comes together to give thanks and pray for future prosperity. There are three stages: welcoming the spirits, feasting the spirits, and sending the spirits off. Each might involve traditional dances, singing and feasting and many are now open to the public. Check the official Taitung website (discover. taitung.gov.tw) to find out where celebrations are taking place and on what dates.
Summer highlights
1
Taste world-beating subtropical whisky
In 2015, Kavalan stunned the world when Solist – their sherry cask-matured, singlecask whisky – scooped the top prize at the World Whiskies Awards. Check out their visitor centre in Yilan. Though the whisky is made using Scottish methods, you’ll find a distillery surrounded not by lochs but by palm trees.
Dazzling displays (clockwise from far left) The Penghu International Fireworks Festival; Yuan Shan whiskey distillery; balloon faces; clifftop hike; soak up the coast; Penghu’s fireworks
2 Temple-hop in Taiwan’s oldest city Tainan celebrated its 400th birthday in 2024, making it Taiwan’s oldest city. It’s a prime example of Taiwan’s religious plurality: there are Buddhist, Daoist, Confucian and Mazu temples here, each with subtle differences.
3
Roll through lush rice paddies
Between the mist-wreathed mountains of the East Rift Valley, the township of Chishang plies an unusual trade: the renting out of cartoon-themed buggies for joyrides. As you drive around the rice paddies, you’ll notice one bishop wood tree gaining a lot of attention: this tree was featured in two Taiwanese adverts, sparking a thriving domestic tourism industry.
4 Cook up Indigenous cuisine
The summer harvest season is the perfect time to visit Taiwan’s Indigenous communities and tuck into local foods. The Tafalong, an Amis community, welcome travellers to their visitor centre in Hualien to make Indigenous cuisine using their sacred red glutinous rice. Have a go at making rice wine for yourself, as well as spicy pork and vegetable wraps.
AUTUMN FESTIVALS
October and November have an ideal combination of warmth and low rainfall, making this a time for hiking, cycling and other outdoor adventures. The Taiwanese are an active bunch and you’ll see many of them hitting the trails in autumn, walking with their families or training for the winter marathon
Mid-Autumn (Moon) Festival
When: The 15th day of the eighth month of the lunar year (September/October) Where: Nationwide
After New Year, the Mid-Autumn Festival is the biggest event in the lunar calendar, and it always takes place at the full moon. Families gather to watch the moon at outdoor barbecues in parks and public places. The barbecues are a uniquely Taiwanese tradition, with one of the largest gatherings taking place at Yangmingshan National Park in Taipei. You’ll also see lantern parades and displays, such as those at Taipei Expo Park and Kaohsiung’s Love River.
The origins of the festival are unknown, but it is thought to have begun around 618-907 as a celebration of the moon and the harvest.
It was also around this time that people started eating moon cakes,
the most emblematic food of the festival. These popular round pastry cakes have stood the test of time and are still served today, stuffed with sweet fillings. There are many options to choose from, but three of the most common fillings are mung beans, red bean paste with duck egg yolk, and taro. The latter is specific to Taiwan, originating in Taichung City. Some of the best-known bakeshops, such as Chia Te in Taipei, will have queues out the door during the festival. You won’t regret waiting to try one for yourself, though.
Sun Moon Lake International Swimming Carnival
When: September
Where: Sun Moon Lake, Nantou How to get there: Bus from Taipei or Taichung
Swimming is prohibited in Sun Moon Lake – one of the island’s most visited destinations – with one exception.
Full moon (from top left) Be sure to sample a moon cake during the mid-autumn festival; tens of thousands of people join in with the Sun Moon Lake International Swimming Carnival
Last September, 22,606 people broke the rule en masse, entering the lake at Zhaowu Wharf and swimming its 3km breadth to Ita Thao Wharf. The event has grown significantly since the first-ever festival in 1981, when only 540 participants took part. The swim is open to all people of all abilities. Prior to the main event, there’s a swimming race and stand-up paddleboarding race featuring elite athletes.
Aside from the festival, Sun Moon Lake is worth a longer look, with opportunities to hike or cycle its circumference. Ascend to Xuanguang Temple to see relics of the Buddhist monk Xuanzang, on whose story the epic novel Journey to the West was based. Just north of the lake is the Antique Assam Tea Farm, with frequent guided tours around the tea processing plant. Stop for lunch and try the renowned Ruby Black Tea: a speciality to this area, with notes of cinnamon and mint.
Taiwan Cycling Festival
When: October to November Where: Nationwide
70% of all mid- to high-end bicycles are made in Taiwan; it’s no surprise, then, that cycling is hugely popular here. This enthusiasm peaks during
the Taiwan Cycling Festival, which comprises multiple events. The one-day Taiwan King of the Mountain (KOM) Challenge is considered one of the world’s toughest races, starting in Hualien and ending at the Wuling Pass, at an altitude of 3,275m.
The Formosa 900, also known as the ‘Tour de Taiwan’, loops around the whole of Taiwan’s 900km coast – but it’s not a race. Instead, the main aim of the event is sightseeing. Teams start in different cities and maintain a leisurely pace as they admire mountains, coastal villages and rice paddies.
For a shorter time commitment, the Come! Bike Day at Sun Moon Lake (which usually takes place in early November) is suitable for all ages and ranges from a 30km circumnavigation to short children’s races.
Into the mountains (clockwise from top left) The Taiwan King of the Mountain Challenge is thought to be one of the hardest cycling races on the planet; Jioufen Teahouse contains 100 years of history; you can take to Sun Moon Lake by boat; a temple near the lake
Autumn highlights
1
Explore the former mining towns of Ruifang
Visitors usually bus into Ruifang on a day trip from Taipei, but this fascinating county – which became wealthy from the mining of gold and other minerals – merits several days’ exploration. Highlights include the ornate teahouses of Jiufen, Shifen’s old street and waterfall and the prisoner-ofwar memorial in Jinguashi.
2 Marvel at a marble gorge
Over millions of years, the Liwu River has carved through the marble and gneiss mountains of Taiwan’s east coast to create the rippling walls of Taroko Gorge, perhaps the island’s most staggering natural wonder. Some trails were damaged by the April 2024 earthquake, so check what’s open pre-travel.
3 Dive with corals and critters
Autumn creates ideal diving conditions at Green Island off Taitung, with both far-ranging visibility and warm water. At all times of year, you’ll see colourful corals, barracudas, pufferfish and green sea turtles. More experienced divers might want to wait until January-March to see the hammerheads at Shark Point, which is notorious for its challenging current.
4 Eat seafood on Cijin Island
Cijin Island is a place to slow down and savour: the ferry ride from mainland Kaohsiung with skyline views; the blacksand beach; the open-air art installations. Feast on clams and soy-marinated squid on Miaocian Road – home to Kaohsiung’s oldest temple.
Bright lights How better to celebrate New Year than with a dazzling fireworks display?
WINTER FESTIVALS
During Taiwan’s mild, dry winters, the markets fill with tangyuan (winter solstice rice dumplings) and over a million purple butterflies begin their journey from north to south. Although the Gregorian New Year isn’t as important as the Lunar New Year here, you can still expect lots of festivities
Taipei New Year’s Eve Fireworks
When: 31 December
Where: Taipei
How to get there: Fly to Taipei Airport
Until 2010, the Taipei 101 skyscraper was the tallest building in the world. Its shape, said to resemble a bamboo or eight stacked takeaway boxes, is central to the New Year celebrations. Fireworks are ignited from the building’s tiers, while projections play on its surface.
City lights (this page; top to bottom) Up to 30,000 fireworks light up the Taipei 101 skyscraper at midnight every New Years Eve; the Taipei Marathon takes you past many of the city’s most iconic sights
Though the Gregorian (or ‘Western’) New Year isn’t as widely celebrated as the Lunar New Year, Taiwanese people have an international outlook and still see this date as significant. In the lead-up, you’ll find concerts across Taipei and many major hotels will throw special celebrations (book these well in advance).
Outside, crowds start forming from around 3pm. One popular viewing spot – and one of the best views of the city at any time of year – is Elephant Mountain. If you book a hotel with a
view of the tower, such as the Grand Hyatt or W Hotel, you can watch the fireworks from the comfort of your room. Just check ahead to make sure you’ll be facing in the right direction! Xinyi, where Taipei 101 is located, is a wonderful base from which to explore the city. Attractions within walking distance include the neoclassical Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and the Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, a former tobacco factory that now houses independent boutiques. For dinner, head to Tonghua Night Market for bao buns, rice-pork sausages and taro and pineapple ice cream rolls.
Taipei Marathon
When: December
Where: Taipei
How to get there: Fly to Taipei Airport
Taipei’s annual marathon is open to both professional and amateur runners from ages 17 and up, including a group for the visually impaired. You’ll get a swag bag just for registering – and an even better one for finishing, which includes a meal box and lots of Taiwanmade edible goodies. On race day itself, a total of 28,000 participants
– 8,000 in the marathon and 20,000 in the half-marathon – take to Taipei’s streets for a self-propelled tour of the city sights.
Starting near Taipei 101, you’ll power past the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and towards Zhongzheng, where you’ll meet the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. You’ll then weave past the old city gates and the Presidential Office Building, then north to Zhongshan and the Grand Hotel and east past the Rainbow Bridge, before doubling back and finishing inside Taipei Stadium. Reward your efforts with a Taiwanese classic: beef noodle soup.
Northeast Coast Sunrise Activities
When: 1 January
Where: Several spots along the northeast coast
Taiwan is one of the first countries on the planet to greet the sun as the new year dawns. Every year on January 1st, thousands of Taiwanese watch the year’s first sunrise over the Pacific Ocean, from Eluanbi in the south to Bitou Cape in the north.
Popular locations include Sanxiantai in Taitung and Qixingtan in Hualien –but for those in Taipei, Fulong Beach is the place to be.
After the Taipei 101 fireworks, catch the specially arranged ‘Fulong Happiness Train’, which will whizz you from Taipei to Fulong in about an hour and a half.
At the beach, there are live music performances playing from 4am until 7am, to keep you entertained as you wait for sunrise.
Cultural highlights (this page top to bottom) Beef noodle soup is a Taiwanese classic; Cuichi is the highest lake in Taiwan; Beitou has one of the largest concentrations of hot springs in the world
Winter highlights Winter
1
Get cosy in Beitou’s hot springs
The hot springs of Beitou, at the north end of Taipei, look especially dramatic in winter as the steam rolls through the cooler air. Check into a hot-spring hotel if time and budget allow, or just visit the thermal valley, take a plunge in the public pools and reflect on Japanese colonial history at the Beitou Museum.
2
Discover temple treasures
Throughout the 20th century, almost 700,000 pieces of Chinese art spanning 5,000 years of history were moved to Taiwan to protect them from successive wars. That collection is now housed in Taipei’s Palace Museum and includes works such as the Qing dynasty Jadeite Cabbage carving and paintings by Ming dynasty masters.
3
Visit artisans in Lukang
The western port town of Lukang is ideal for stocking up on souvenirs, as you’ll encounter artisan boutiques everywhere you look. Stroll down the Old Street and browse leather and woodwork while grazing on pork buns and mochi. Don’t miss the Osmanthus Alley Artists Village, an incubator for fledgling art businesses.
4
Witness a massive butterfly migration
In November, the Maolin National Scenic Area hosts the first of over a million rare purple crow butterflies as they begin their north-south migration. From November to February, between 8.30am and 11am, it’s possible to see thousands of these delicate creatures up close.
discover
Prehistoric intrigue and golden sands in Wales, a Habsburg gem in north-eastern Italy, museum treasures in Dubrovnik, and plenty more…
Alamy
Northern exposure Puffin Cove in Caithness is just one wildlife hotspot among many in Scotland. From Shetland to Orkney, the northernmost fringes of the UK are home to vast colonies of seabirds, which have made the islands and cliffs their domain, plus orca, basking sharks, ospreys, red deer and more; see page 270
EXPLORE MENORCA
THE BIOSPHERE RESERVE OF THE BALEARICS
Discover what makes Menorca so tranquil by delving into its Biosphere Reserve status
Menorca, the second largest of the Balearic Islands, promises untamed beauty, natural beaches and a diverse landscape. Designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1993 for its commitment to preserving land and marine ecosystems, it remains authentic through responsible tourism and conservation efforts. Its understated charm and rich cultural heritage make this island a haven for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.
Albufera des Grau
Nature Park
Lying at the heart of the Biosphere Reserve is Albufera des Grau, a vast national park and wetlands with a peaceful lagoon. Flanked by craggy cliffs, the area includes more than 5,000 hectares of lush forest, marshes and dunes – habitats that contain considerable biodiversity. With a wealth of fauna and flora, the park is home to more than 200 birds, including ospreys and harriers, as well as countless endemic species and plant varieties.
Immaculate Beaches
Menorca is blessed with a bounty of natural beaches and secluded coves, which lure visitors with their white sands and turquoise waters.
Strict conservation laws ensure the island’s coastline remains largely undeveloped, and its 100 or so beaches offer plenty of peace. Tranquil calas (coves) are often framed by pine forests where wildlife can thrive, making them ideal for undisturbed sunbathing, swimming or snorkelling.
Camí de Cavalls
The Camí de Cavalls (‘Way of the Horses’ in Catalan) is an ancient path that dates back to medieval times. This charming stroll connects up the island’s old watchtowers, and it was actually created by King Jaume II as a defence against coastal attacks by pirates. Approximately 185km long, this route encircles the island, meandering ravines, wetlands and coves. It can be explored on foot, by bike or on horseback, and it’s the perfect way to slowly soak up Menorca’s charms.
Treasured island (clockwise, from top left) Savour tranquillity at Cala Macar de sa Llosa; the Camí de Cavalls encircles Menorca and is perfect for hiking, cycling and horse riding; Es Canutells is a charming seaside town in southern Menorca; the Naveta d’Es Tudons is an ancient funerary monument
Talayotic Heritage
There are nearly 1,600 Talayotic megalithic sites scattered across the island. Taking the form of talayots (stone towers), navetas (collective tombs) and taulas (shrines), many hark back to the Bronze Age.
Menorca’s impressive Talayotic heritage was even awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2023. Two of the best-known sites to visit are Naveta d’Es Tudons, the ancient funerary monument, and Torre d’en Galmés, one of the largest Talayotic settlements.
Alamy
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Dubrovnik’s historic streets often distract from the history found within its buildings, especially the city’s trove of museums, writes Mary Novakovich
With its pedestrianised OldTown ringed by medieval and Renaissance walls, and its shiny marble lanes lined with Baroque palaces and stone townhouses, you could argue that Dubrovnik itself is an open-air museum. Indeed, 2024 marks the 45th anniversary of the OldTown’s UNESCOWorld Heritage status. Many visitors are content with walking the city walls, catching glimpses of day-to-day life down below, bowled over by the beauty of its location alongside the twinkling waters of the Adriatic. Others are simply unaware of the cultural treasures within Dubrovnik’s historic buildings.
One of the most striking museum settings in the Old Town is the Rector’s Palace, a magnificent colonnaded mansion with parts dating from the 15th century. Behind its graceful arches lies the Cultural History Museum, a window into the former republic of Ragusa, as Dubrovnik was known from 1358 to 1808. Other Renaissance palaces and townhouses in the Old Town – many, including the Rector’s Palace, rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1667 earthquake – are also home to fascinating collections
that range from ethnographic and maritime to natural history and war photography.
Both the Franciscan and Dominican monasteries, which top and tail the Old Town’s main artery, Stradun, hold collections of art and artefacts, while the history of Dubrovnik’s small Jewish community is revealed within its 14th-century synagogue, set in an alley that’s easy to miss.
Walk outside the Old Town’s southern Ploče Gate and you’ll find an impressive 1930s villa that houses the Museum of Modern Art. Just beyond the Pile Gate, at the Old Town’s northern end, is the latest addition to Dubrovnik’s cultural scene: the Wine Museum. And as an antidote to Zagreb’s Museum of Broken Relationships, the Love Stories Museum is a place of ‘happily ever afters’.
In the Gruž ferry port is the Red History Museum, which delves into the story of Yugoslavia, while the more recent past is evoked in the Homeland War Museum at the top of Mount Srđ, whose cable car includes a ticket to the museum. A Dubrovnik Pass (£12.50–£29; dubrovnikpass.com) includes free entry to 11 museums, houses and galleries, the city walls and public transport.
Hidden gems (this page; clockwise from top right) A taste of the 20,000-strong collection at the Cultural History Museum; Fort Imperial was originally built by Napoleon’s troops; Dubrovnik’s Museum of Modern Art; the Franciscan Monastery contains a world-renowned collection of manuscripts; (right page; clockwise from top left) the exterior of the Rector’s Palace; War Photo Limited is a thought-provoking space; inside the Franciscan Monastery
CULTURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, RECTOR’S PALACE
The Rector’s Palace used to be the centre of Ragusa’s government.Today, its atrium is used for classical concerts, whereas most of the palace is given over to the Cultural History Museum, whose 20,000 artefacts lead you through some seven centuries of Dubrovnik’s fascinating past.
The galleries of paintings take you back to the Renaissance and Baroque periods. Here you’ll find the outstanding 16th-century Baptism of Christ by Dubrovnik artist Mihajlo Hamzić,while its collections of furniture, glass, textiles, ceramics, weapons and metalwork give a vivid idea of the wealth of the Ragusan republic in its heyday. You’ll also see how the palace’s Renaissance interior was blended with later Baroque additions after the building was damaged by 15th-century gunpowder explosions and the 1667 earthquake. Closed Monday (Nov–Mar);dumus.hr
RED HISTORY MUSEUM
Set in the former TUP graphite factory in the increasingly hip district of Gruž, a short bus ride from the Old Town, the Red History Museum takes on the often misunderstood history of Yugoslavia’s communist years (1945–91) in an enlightening and entertaining way.
Hands-on exhibits (even a vintage Yugo car), reconstructed rooms and offices, and revealing testimonials tread a fine line between the inevitable kitsch – notably in design and fashion –and the serious reality of life under a communist dictatorship.There’s a gallery for temporary art and cultural exhibitions; the museum also hosts special events and workshops during winter. Closed Sunday (Nov–Mar); redhistorymuseum.com
WAR PHOTO LIMITED
New Zealand photographer Wade Goddard arrived in Croatia in 1992 to document the war that was tearing apartYugoslavia. Over a decade later, he set up War Photo Limited, a gallery devoted to war photography not just in the former Yugoslavia but also from around the world.
Tucked away off the Stradun, the gallery exhibits works from award-winning photographers and has a permanent collection that includes images from wars in Croatia, Bosnia and Kosovo, as well as a roster of temporary exhibitions on what daily life is like in conflict zones.The result is thought-provoking and powerful.There is also a collection of limited-edition signed prints to buy.
Closed Nov–Mar;warphotoltd.com
MARITIME MUSEUM
Housed across two floors of the hulking 14th-century Sveti Ivan Fortress, this museum reveals how the Republic of Ragusa became a major maritime force, focusing especially on the period spanning the 14th and 16th centuries. It guides you through this rich history via a sizeable collection, including numerous models of galleons, various treasures found in shipwrecks and cannons, maps, charts and oil paintings.
When the museum was founded in 1949, it was the residents of Dubrovnik who donated many of the original artefacts. Look out for the illuminated painting of the port before the 1667 earthquake.There’s also a selection of photographs showing Dubrovnik in flames when it was under siege by theYugoslav army (1991–92). Closed Wednesday; dumus.hr
BEST OF THE REST
Homeland War Museum
When Dubrovnik was under siege by Yugoslavia (1991–92), its front line of defence was Fort Imperial, built by Napoleon’s troops in the early 17th century on Mount Srđ. It’s a fitting location for the Homeland War Museum, which charts the 1990s war as well as the brief period France took over Croatia. mdrd.hr
Museum of Modern Art
Built in 1935, the Museum of Modern Art is an elegant setting for modern and contemporary artworks by Croatian artists, including a large collection by Cavtat-born Vlaho Bukovac. ugdubrovnik.hr
Wine Museum Dubrovnik Dubrovnik’s newest museum lies in the elegant summer home of the aristocratic Pucić family, outside the Pile Gate. Its displays of Dubrovnik’s early winemakers give an engrossing introduction to the region’s excellent wines. winemuseumdubrovnik.com
Franciscan Monastery and Museum
The 14th-century Franciscan Monastery has some of the most beautiful cloisters in Croatia, along with a collection of Renaissance and Baroque paintings and manuscripts. It also holds one of the oldest working pharmacies in Europe, its shelves filled with ancient jars and bottles.
Beside the bay
The Bay of Fundy spans a pair of Atlantic Canada provinces – New Brunswick and Nova Scotia – that make great bases for not only exploring the iconic bay, but enjoying a host of other adventures too. Here’s how to get the most out of both…
“Look out for the spray!” shouts our skipper. I’m somewhere out in the Bay of Fundy, suspended between blue sea and orange sky, scanning the horizon for humpback whales. After half an hour, the shout goes up: “Thar she blows!”
A plume of spray arrows upwards, framed against the horizon. It’s followed by another, then a second and a third. We’ve found not just one humpback but a whole pod. Then, as we get closer, the bubbles begin.
The whales are swimming in circles, trapping their prey inside a net of froth before bursting skywards, mouths gaping open like giant scoops, then disappearing into the deep. After feeding, they
decide it’s playtime, and start leaping from the water. It’s a behaviour known as breaching, and they take turns twirling out of the ocean and corkscrewing into the air before smashing down in a fountain of spray.
The sound of 30 tonnes of whale belly-flopping in front of you is something I wasn’t prepared for: a percussive boom that hits you in the chest like a cannon going off. Once you’ve heard it, it’s a sound that echoes in your head for years to come.
Humpback whales aren’t the only marine life here. The area’s nutrientrich currents and massive tides – the largest on Earth – attract many other species, including fin, minke, the endangered North Atlantic right whale and occasionally blue whales, not to mention numerous seabirds,
Whale tails
(this page) The summer months are a busy time in the Bay of Fundy, when cetaceans of many varieties arrive to feed and raise their young. Humpback, fin and North Atlantic right whales are among the most anticipated sightings here, but there are plenty of dolphins and seals too
seals, porpoises, dolphins and occasionally orca.
These creatures figure heavily in the legends of the First Nations people, the Mi’kmaq, who have called the bay home for millennia. For an insight into their fascinating culture, Indigenous-led tours include guided kayaking trips, foraging sessions in search of medicinal plants, traditional storytelling and dance displays, as well as wildlife-watching expeditions.
With two provinces to explore – Nova Scotia to the south, New Brunswick to the north – it’s a superb place for a road trip. Characterful harbours, buzzy cities, coastal hikes, tidal surfing – the Atlantic Coast offers an unforgettable adventure. Buckle up! You’re in for quite a ride.
Written by: Oliver Berry
Hit the road
The following week-long itinerary brings together the essential experiences of the Fundy coast, but it’s just the start. You can spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.
New Brunswick’s vibrant city of Saint John, Canada’s oldest incorporated city and the only city on the bay, is a brilliant place to begin, with its heaps of history and charm.
From here, the Fundy Trail Provincial Park rolls out along the coast, providing the perfect route to explore the cliffs and coves connected to Fundy National Park. Next, head for the lighthouse at Cape Enrage for pure coastal drama.
The signature sight on the coast is at Hopewell Rocks, where the receding tide reveals a gallery of strange geological sculptures, resembling everything from mushrooms to animals. It’s weird to walk right out onto the ocean floor, which was still submerged just an hour earlier. When
The coast with the most (this page; clockwise from top left) Grand Manan Island is a great place to book a whale-watching tour; another photogenic sight of Grand Manan Island is its Swallowtail Lighthouse; a hike in Cape Split Provincial Park offers incredible views over the Bay of Fundy; tidal-bore rafting is one of the more adventurous ways to get out on the bay; Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park is home to more than 20 free-standing sea stacks; explore high tide from the comfort of a kayak
the tide is high, New Brunswick’s coast is best explored by kayak, or head for the Fundy Isles for quiet trails, seaside lobster feasts and traditional harbours. Grand Manan Island is known for its whale and puffin watching in particular. On the opposite side of the bay is St Andrews by-the-Sea where you can explore some of the province’s most picturesque architecture.
Over in Nova Scotia, detour to see ancient fossils embedded in the cliffs
at Joggins, then head south-west around the craggy headland of Cape Chignecto for wild coastal hiking and backcountry camping. From here, turn eastwards through Parrsboro to loop down to Maitland for one of Canada’s most unique whitewater experiences: tidal-bore rafting on the Shubenacadie River, where a maelstrom of whitewater is created when the river’s out-flowing current meets the incoming tide.
For a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience, stop off at Burntcoat Head. At low tide, chefs from Dining on the Ocean Floor serve candlelit suppers right out on the sandy seabed.
Further west lies Nova Scotia’s wine country. The province’s top vineyards can be found around Wolfville, Grand Pré and the Annapolis Valley. For more world-class whale watching, the area around Digby is another famous hotspot, with day trips heading out from Brier Island and Long Island. From here, it’s an easy inland drive to Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site, where Mi’kmaw guides offer bushcraft tours, craft sessions, medicine walks and visits to ancient petroglyph sites.
Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy
Italy’s north-eastern jewel is too often overlooked for its Venetian neighbour. But while the latter wrestles with overtourism, this former Habsburg outpost offers a welcome antidote, writes Kiki Deere
Comfortably tucked away in Italy’s north-eastern corner, bordering Austria to the north and Slovenia to the east, Friuli Venezia Giulia is all too often forgotten in favour of its neighbouring region,Veneto.Yet venture here and you’ll discover an amalgamation of cultures and landscapes that make this unlike anywhere else in Italy. This is a place of magnificent Roman riches,Venetian architecture, Habsburg cities, marshy lagoons, snowy mountains, karst terrain and rolling vineyard landscapes.
The Romans were quick to acknowledge the region’s strategic location at the crossroads of East and West, building one of the Empire’s foremost outposts at Aquileia. The town’s Basilica harbours exquisite Roman finds, not least an early Christian mosaic floor that is the largest – and oldest – surviving example of its kind in the Western world.
Beautiful Udine served as one of theVenetian Republic’s most important cities. As a result, many of its porticoed loggias and elegant palazzi bear the image of the winged lion of St Mark – the symbol of the Republic. Art abounds here, and Udine is dubbed the ‘Città del Tiepolo’ for its spectacular Rococo fresco cycles by the
18th-century painter Giovanni BattistaTiepolo, which are among the artist’s most significant. Regional capitalTrieste was the Austro-Hungarian Empire’s first port city, and once imported tonnes of coffee to serveVienna’s cafés (even today, it still imports 40% of Italy’s coffee). It became a city of grand boulevards and elegant Neoclassical cafés, where writers, intellectuals and artists gathered to exchange ideas. The border town of Gorizia, too, was long under the thumb of the Habsburgs, and a distinctly Central European feel still pervades its streets today.
Spend a few days exploring the region and you’ll soon discover a cuisine that is as varied as its cultural offerings, with rich culinary traditions marrying Italian, Austrian, Slovene and Venetian flavours.
The region’s topography is no less diverse. The limestone karst plateau stretches into Slovenia, dotted with secluded beaches and offering no shortage of trekking opportunities. To the north are the jagged Dolomites as well as the Carnic and Julian Alps, playgrounds for outdoor enthusiasts, while the central plains run down to the Adriatic, where thatched fishermen’s dwellings dot lagoons that serve as important wintering grounds for birds.
Ask a local
“Overlooking the Gulf of Trieste, the Castello di Miramare is a highlight, surrounded by lush gardens offering breathtaking sea views. You can also take in glorious vistas as you walk the Rilke Trail, where cliffs plunge into the Adriatic. And make sure you experience an osmiza in the Karst, savouring local wines and homemade charcuterie. Discover the medieval streets of Cividale, a UNESCO World Heritage site, hike the majestic peaks of the Carnic Alps and learn about creativity at the ITS Arcademy – Museum of Art in Fashion in Trieste. History, nature and tradition intertwine here at every corner.”
Barbara Franchin, director of the ITS Arcademy Foundation (itsweb.org/its-arcademy/)
Making an impression (this page; above) At 760 sqm, the extravagant 4th-century mosaic at the Basilica of Aquileia befits a city that was one of the wealthiest in the early Roman Empire, until it was sacked by the Huns in 452 AD; (previous spread) Trieste’s Miramare Castle was once the home of Maximilian of Habsburg, an archduke who met his end in Mexico after trying to set himself up as the head of the short-lived Second Mexican Empire
The region in six days
Day 1: Trieste
This elegant port city on the Adriatic is an architectural delight, with Neoclassical buildings lining grand boulevards that spill into large piazzas such as the magnificent Unità d’Italia. Take a stroll along the Canal Grande in the Borgo Teresiano, named after Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, who left an indelible mark on the city. Climb up to the Castello di San Giusto for a bird’s eye view of Trieste and beyond.
Day 2: Udine
Pretty Udine is a feast for the eyes. Its historical core is laced with cobbled streets and Venetian palazzos and churches, many embellished with beautiful frescoes by Tiepolo. Head to the Gallerie del Tiepolo to take it all in. This is a vibrant student town with a laid-back vibe and restaurants serving traditional specialities such as frico, a crispy potato-and-cheese pancake.
Day 3: Cividale del Friuli
The capital of the first Lombard duchy in Italy, this beautifully preserved medieval town has a dramatic location on a clifftop above the gushing waters of the Natisone River. Wander across the Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge), a reconstruction of the 15th-century original, to reach the city’s main attractions.
Day 4: San Daniele del Friuli
The delightful little town of San Daniele del Friuli produces some of Italy’s finest prosciutto. Visit one of the town’s prosciuttifici (ham manufacturers) to learn more about how these guitar-shaped hunks of meat are salted and cured, before sitting back for aperitivo – the prosciutto goes down all too well with a glass of white wine.
Day 5: Grado and Aquileia
Explore the Laguna di Grado by boat, refuelling for lunch at Ai Ciodi, an island restaurant serving exquisite fresh fish and seafood. Spend the afternoon at the World Heritage site of Aquileia, where the vast basilica is the highlight of any visit, thanks to its show-stopping floor mosaics. And don’t miss the Cripta degli Affreschi, adorned with beautiful 12th-century frescoes.
Day 6: Gorizia and the Collio
Straddling the border with Slovenia, the town of Gorizia has an enduringly Central European flavour. Its 11th-century castello is the city’s main sight; once you’ve taken that in, enjoy a stroll through the streets before making for the rolling hills of the wine-producing Collio region, where you can sample some premium white wines at the familyrun vineyards scattering the area. ⊲
their enemy – it proved fruitless, and the bridge was later rebuilt by German forces; the waterfall of Goriuda plummets for around 80m; 90% of the grapes grown in the hilly Collio region produce white wine
A place to rest (this page; clockwise from top left) Piazza San Giacomo in Udine is a beautiful spot to take in the city’s Venetian architecture; after a crushing defeat by Austro-Hungarian and German forces in the Battle of Caporetto in 1917, the retreating Italian troops blew up Cividale del Friuli’s 15th-century Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge) to slow down
Need to know
When to go
Trieste’s notorious bora wind reach up to 176kph and has even has become an attraction in itself. It can blow year-round, although feels most brutal in winter. Bora aside, the climate in Friuli Venezia Giulia is similar to that of other northern Italian regions, with hot summers (up to 28ºC) and freezing winters.
Getting there & around Ryanair (ryanair.com) offers direct flights from London Stansted to Trieste; these cost from £34 return and take two hours. Bus and train services link major towns and cities, although the network is limited, making hiring a car the best way to get around.
Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Trieste produces around 194kg of carbon dioxide per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on finding one, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ inspiration/sustainable-travel.
Secret worlds (this page; top–bottom) The Castle of Duino was built during the 14th century on the ruins of a Roman military outpost, and it steadily built a reputation as a cultural centre down the years – the 19th-century poet Rainer Maria Rilke (after whom a nearby coastal trail is named) composed the first two of his famous Duino Elegies while staying at the castle; the giant Grotta Gigante began forming around 10 million years ago
Don’t miss...
Outdoors
Hike the Karst
Indoors
Aquileia’s floor mosaics
Currency
Euro (€), currently around €1.19 to the UK£.
Further information
Visit the PromoTurismoFVG (turismofvg.it/en) for travel ideas and to buy a digital FVG card that entitles you to free or reduced entry at many sights.
Occupying Friuli’s thin fold of land that stretches into Slovenia, the rugged limestone plateau known as the Karst offers plenty of hikes along scenic paths. The coastal Rilke Trail (2.6km) is the most famous, snaking along the cliffside from the Castello di Duino to the sleepy little marina of Sistiana.
Cycle the FVG3
The panoramic FVG3 Pedemontana cycling route connects Pordenone in the west to Gorizia in the east, offering keen cyclists a great way to explore on two wheels. Picturesque villages and vineyards dot the route, making it all too easy to refuel with hearty fare washed down with local wine. The route runs 182km through largely flat terrain, making it perfect for multi-day escapes or ticking off a section on a day ride.
Piazza della Libertà
You could spend a good while standing in Udine’s main square, admiring its exquisite Venetian architecture. The 15th-century Palazzo del Comune is even modelled on Venice’s Palazzo Ducale, while its clocktower echoes the one found on St Mark’s Square –note the Venetian lion that adorns the façade.
Step into the Basilica of Aquileia and you’ll be struck by the beauty of its 4th-century mosaic floor. It is thought to be the oldest surviving in the Western Christian world. It’s also the largest, occupying an incredible 760 sqm of the nave. It was commissioned by Bishop Theodore under the rule of Emperor Constantine, and it features allegories, images and representations of the story of Jonah. It was lost for hundreds of years, only to be rediscovered at the turn of the 20th century.
Tempietto Longobardo, Cividale del Friuli
This tiny chapel dates from the 8th century and is a remarkable example of Lombard architecture. Inside, its adorned with stucco decorations, including six wonderfully preserved female figures (thought to be saints), that were added later, as well as some beautiful frescoes.
Grotta Gigante
The Karst’s main attraction is this vast underground cave that is rich in stalagmite and stalactite formations. At a towering 98m high and 76m wide, it is one of the largest in the world. Walkways, steps and platforms lead you through the cavernous space.
Alamy; Shutterstock
Stay here...
L’Albero Nascosto, Trieste
This delightful boutique hotel in the heart of Trieste brims with personality, offering tastefully decorated rooms that come furnished with antiques, rugs and a heavy dose of contemporary works of art. alberonascosto.it
1448 Antica Dimora Al Merlo Bianco, Cividale del Friuli
In a prime location overlooking the river Natisone that runs through Cividale del Friuli, this recently converted stay offers six spacious rooms and also has a popular osteria that includes outdoor seating in the summer season. almerlobianco.it
This five-star hotel has a tranquil setting in the marina of Sistiana, overlooking the
Adriatic. The facilities include a beach club and swimming pools. tivolihotels.com
1848 Chef’s Rooms, Gorizia
This B&B in the centre of Gorizia offers three rooms in a restored building where original features such as bare stone walls and ceiling beams have been lovingly preserved. milleottocentoquarantotto.it
Mercatovecchio Luxury Suites, Udine
The six themed rooms at this hotel in Udine’s historical core come with an eclectic choice of contemporary furnishings and wallpaper designs. mercatovecchio.it
Tenuta Valle Ca’ del Lovo, near Marano
This farmhouse with on-site stables has a tranquil lagoon setting outside Marano, offering outdoor activities including fishing, biking and horseback rides. cadellovo.it
4 TOP THINGS TO DO
TRY local specialities at an osmiza. A handful of weeks a year, farmers in the Karst area open their doors to the public, serving and selling produce such as eggs, cheeses, cold cuts and wine. Finding these osmize is an experience in itself – look out for branches or boughs hung by the roadside.
EXPERIENCE the picturesque waterside town of Muggia. There’s no better place to enjoy an al fresco lunch. The town was an important Venetian outpost for over 300 years, and its annual Carnevale di Muggia in August sees intricate floats paraded through the city.
HOP in a canoe and glide the canals of Laguna di Marano. The lake is dotted with casoni – fishermen’s dwellings made from mud and reeds. Afterwards, refuel on fresh seafood at the Bilancia di Bepi – its fish are caught using a huge lift net in the lagoon.
SIT BACK in one of Trieste’s Habsburg-era cafés. Triestini are said to imbibe twice as much coffee as their Italian counterparts, and the city even has its own lexicon – a cappuccino is known here as a ‘caffelatte’, while an espresso is a ‘nero’.
Uncovering a gem (this page; clockwise from top left) The mosaic at the Basilica of Aquileia was not rediscovered until the turn of the 20th century, when the floor coverings of later years were removed; the frescoes of the tiny chapel of Tempietto Longobardo are an exquisite sight; Trieste’s 18th-century Grand Canal was meant to be part of a larger network of waterways, to allow boats to unload in the city centre, though this was never completed
Three ways to tour differently with
TRAFALGAR
Discover one-of-a-kind immersive experiences with Trafalgar
At the heart of any form of travel is the thrill of a new experience. Perhaps it’s a food you’ve never tried before or a culture you might not know about. Trafalgar puts these one-of-a-kind moments at the core of all of its tours, giving you the chance
to properly experience a destination and its culture at your own pace.
You might find yourself helping to support an endangered species at a conservancy in Kenya, cooking with a local in Kerala, staying at an eco-lodge in Costa Rica or foraging alongside your First Nations host in Canada.
Different views (this page; top to bottom) Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica is a stratovolcano, formed upon layers of ash, rock and lava; with Trafalgar, travellers can visit a honey farm in Delphi, Greece, to learn about how a local family is working hard to revive their region’s declining bee population
What unites these experiences is a focus on immersive, meaningful travel that gets you under the skin of a place. As well as sharing memories with like-minded travellers, you’ll also gain insider insights from a local guide and hear stories from the people who call that region home.
THREE WAYS TO TOUR DIFFERENTLY WITH TRAFALGAR 1 Tour responsibly – for the bees
Trafalgar’s Make Travel Matter™ experiences span everything from sampling biodynamic wines at a Portuguese vineyard to visiting a salt farm in Hawai‘i, with a focus on experiences that support local communities and the environment. On the Best of Greece tour, for example, guests can support a local beekeeping initiative in Delphi. You’ll visit the honey farm where Nikiforos and his family are helping revive the region’s declining bee population,
which has suffered partly due to a fall in beekeeping activity. You’ll get to sample the family’s special thyme honey – which is considered by some to be one of the most nutritious in the world – and explore the farm while learning more about how the family is contributing to the regeneration of the land and its biodiversity.
2
Get a taste of local life at the New Orleans School of Cooking
From the jazz scene to Mardi Gras, New Orleans is a vibrant melting pot of cultures, and nowhere is that better seen than in its cuisine. On Trafalgar’s ten-day Tastes and Sounds of the South tour through Tennessee and
Local flare (this page; clockwise from top) Trafalgar brings Tennessee to life through locals’ eyes; on Trafalgar’s Italian Holiday tour, travellers can admire intricate architecture guided by a local specialist; in New Orleans, guests can learn how to cook tasty dishes, such as crawfish étouffée; in Tasmania, travellers can connect with the local community while indulging in a flavoursome dining experience
Louisiana, you’ll glean the secrets behind the recipes with an evening at a cookery school. Learn how to make gumbo, dirty rice, étouffée, red beans and a creole bread pudding as you rustle up some of the South’s best dishes in the company of a local chef, then tuck into your creations and enjoy an evening to remember.
3
Tour passionately and avoid the queues at the Vatican
As well as putting you in touch with local people, Trafalgar prides itself on offering early-access tours, skip-theline passes and other exclusive perks to further inspire you on your trip. On its Italian Holiday tour, you’ll get fast-track access to the Vatican, exploring its elaborate museums with a local specialist. Admire the striking, Michelangelo-painted frescoes of the Sistine Chapel and the Renaissance treasures of its surrounding museums as you explore this extraordinary feat of art and architecture. See works by the likes of Raphael, Caravaggio, Leonardo da Vinci and others, then visit St Peter’s Basilica to glimpse Michelangelo’s Pietà statue, sculpted from Carrara marble – all without the lengthy queues.
WhyTrafalgar?Why
One-of-a-kind experiences
The Be My Guest initiative has seen more than 100 locals from over 50 countries open up their homes, wineries and farms exclusively to Trafalgar guests, with at least one hosted experience featured on every itinerary. From dining under the stars in the Outback to enjoying a meal at a castle in Italy, you’ll get a rare chance to sample local cuisine and hear from local people with interesting tales to tell.
Tours put the emphasis on unique, meaningful accommodation too; many itineraries feature Stays with Stories, using properties with a unique heritage – think a Japanese ryokan (traditional inn) or a Costa Rican lodge accessed only by boat.
Responsible travel Trafalgar supports environmental and community development projects across the world. Guests on every Trafalgar tour take part in at least one Make Travel Matter™ Experience, which are aimed at supporting up to two of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.
Pick from stand-out experiences such as visiting the Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya, home to the last two remaining northern white rhinos in the world, or staying at an Aboriginal-owned resort in Australia’s remote Flinders Ranges.
SCAN TO DOWNLOAD OR ORDER A BROCHURE
Scotland
It’s wild up north! The rugged, empty fringes of Scotland are busier than you’d think, with basking sharks, orca and vast colonies of seabirds scattering its islands, mountains and coast, writes James Fair
From orca to crested tits, red deer to razorbills, Scotland has such a rich panoply of wildlife that it would be criminal not to seek it out when exploring the north of Britain. It’s also easier to see than you think.While you can tough it out on the mountains if you wish, watching some of the country’s most charismatic species – puffins, for one – can involve nothing more demanding than idling on the grass in the sunshine.
Scotland isn’t large.The land area is around 80,000 sq km, placing it just above Serbia in size. But, owing to its far-flung island chains, it covers a much vaster expanse, stretching deep into the Atlantic. Hermaness, the northernmost part of Shetland, is closer to the North Pole than, say, Bergen in Norway is, while the archipelago of St Kilda is separated from the Outer Hebrides by some 60km of ocean. It’s the in-between bits – the cold, nutrient-rich waters – where some of Europe’s greatest wildlife spectacles can be witnessed. Bass Rock in the Firth of Forth, for example, is home to some 75,000 pairs of northern gannets.These glossy-white seabirds have two-metre-wide wingspans and are renowned for plunge-diving at tremendous speeds, hitting the water at 80kph.This breeding colony accounts for around 10% of the species population worldwide.
Orcas patrol the waters off Shetland, Orkney and the mainland, feeding on porpoises and both grey and harbour seals. Equally noteworthy is Gunna Sound, between the Inner Hebridean islands of Coll and Tiree, which is renowned as one of the best places in the world to see basking sharks.These filter-feeding giants can grow to a length of 10m and arrive here in large numbers in the summer.
The Minch, a lonely stretch of water between the Inner and Outer Hebrides, is another area rich in marine wildlife that is worth seeking out. It’s home to more than ten species of cetacean, with minke whales, porpoises and common and bottlenose dolphins all regularly spotted on boat tours.
For more sightings, turn your gaze to the sky. Ospreys have been recolonising Scotland for 70 years, and some 250 pairs migrate here from Africa every year. Both golden and white-tailed eagles are also now widespread across much of the mainland and many of the islands.
Scotland’s common, everyday wildlife is no less appealing. Red deer can be spotted from the southern lowlands to Caithness and Sutherland. Along much of the long coastline, it’s impossible to miss the piping oystercatchers and burbling curlews. Otters, too, are numerous, though spotting them requires plenty of patience and sharp eyes.
Big in Scotland (this page; top to bottom) The basking shark and red deer are, respectively, the largest species of fish and land mammal found in the British Isles
Shetland
The Shetland archipelago has wildlife to match anywhere in Europe. Must-visit sites include the islands Mousa, where sparrow-sized storm petrels nest in the cracks of a 2,300-year-old broch (drystone tower), and Noss, where its resident gannet colony can be seen plunge-diving en masse.The cliffs at Hermaness are home to delightful colonies of nesting puffins (pictured above) that socialise like village gossips metres from your feet. There, you’ll also find great skuas, or bonxies; these predatory seabirds resemble a cross between a gull and an eagle, and they have a fondness for devouring puffins. Far below, orca pods maraud the surrounding waters like wolf packs, hunting for seals and porpoises. Best for: Seabirds of all varieties – Arctic terns, fulmars, guillemots, puffins, razorbills and shags – are easy to see during breeding season.
The west coast & Inner Hebrides
Using Oban as a base, take the ferry to Mull, Coll and Tiree or down to Islay, watching from the deck for any sign of a dorsal fin breaking the surface. Day trips to the Corryvreckan whirlpool – between the islands of Jura and Scarba – are also possible from Oban and Easdale. Created by strong tides and unusual underwater topography, the whirlpool attracts gannets and other seabirds, as well as porpoises and dolphins. Mull and Skye are the best places in Scotland to see white-tailed eagles (pictured above), which were reintroduced here via a programme in the 1970s and ’80s.Watching them snatch mackerel from Mull’s Loch Na Keal is as exhilarating as any wildlife experience in the world. Best for: Cetaceans. Minke whales and bottlenose, common and Risso’s dolphins are all commonly sighted off the west coast.
The Cairngorms
Spanning lowland pine forests, freshwater lochs and high mountains, the Cairngorms encompass a rich variety of wildlife. Breeding ospreys and red squirrels are easy to spot in and around Loch Garten in Abernethy Forest, but sightings of capercaillie (pictured above), a turkey-sized bird whose name means ‘woodland horse’, are increasingly rare. Pine martens – a larger relative of the stoat and weasel – are nocturnal, so you’ll need to book a hide with a tour group to see one (see sidebar). Wildcats, however, are very rare; you’ve got a better chance of glimpsing Nessie.Ascending the slopes, you’ll have better luck sighting red deer and ptarmigan, a bird that changes its plumage from mottled brown to all-white in winter. Best for: Forest birds such as crested tits and crossbills, plus everyone’s favourite – Squirrel Nutkin himself – the native red squirrel.
Where else?
The Flow Country
The Flow Country of Caithness and Sutherland, high in the north, is a 4,000 sq km landscape of peat bogs and tannin-coloured pools. It is utterly silent except for the calls of greenshanks and skylarks.
Chanonry Point
This spit of land, not far from Inverness, thrusts out into the Moray Firth, from where bottlenose dolphins can be spied feeding on salmon and sea trout on a rising tide.
Outer Hebrides
There are golden eagles all over Scotland, but they can be hard to spot. On the island of Harris, the trail up from Bogha Glas is one of the best locations in all Europe to see these raptors.
Solway Firth
In the south-west, the Solway Firth is a feeding ground for thousands of wildfowl, including some 40,000 barnacle geese.
Beaver sites
There are now beavers living in Scotland, having been reintroduced to Knapdale on the west coast and the Tay Valley in the east. You can also now see them at the RSPB’s Loch Lomond Reserve.
Need to know
When to go
Summer is a great time for spotting breeding seabirds, with May and June offering the best odds of decent weather. Arrive from April onwards for sightings of puffins and terns, while spring is best for spotting ospreys. Birds overwinter on the Solway Firth and islands such as Islay and Tiree between October and March Golden and white-tailed eagles live in Scotland year round. Whales and dolphins can be seen all year, but boat trips to view them often run from April to October. Orca – moving between Shetland, Orkney and the northern coast – can be spied from land in any season.
Getting there & around
While Edinburgh and Glasgow are the main flight hubs, you can also fly into Inverness for the Highlands, Kirkwall for Orkney and Sumburgh Head for Shetland. But there are plenty of alternatives to flying. For the west-coast islands, the Caledonian Macbrayne ferry (aka CalMac; calmac.co.uk) is reliable and very cheap. A more elegant route into the Highlands is the Caledonian Sleeper train (sleeper.scot) from London Euston to Fort William, which costs from £140 one-way for a single berth. Lastly, you can, of course, drive – it’s about ten hours from London to Oban.
Activities
Speyside Wildlife (speysidewildlife.co.uk) is based in the Cairngorms and offers nights in pine marten hides and bespoke days out. Aigas Field Centre (aigas.co.uk) runs wildlife tours of the Highlands. On Shetland, Shetland Wildlife (shetlandwildlife.co.uk) can help you to see an orca in the wild. Rewilding and conservation pioneer Alladale Wilderness Reserve (alladale.com) has a range of activities for guests and day visitors in its luxurious properties. And for a day like no other, Basking Shark Scotland lets you snorkel with the world’s second-largest fish (baskingsharkscotland.co.uk).
Gower Peninsula,Wales
High cliffs, prehistoric intrigue, ruined castles, golden beaches and a green and hilly middle – the Gower is a little like Wales in miniature, says Sarah Baxter
Dylan Thomas, the bard of Wales, was born in a suburb of Swansea.
From there, he could gaze westward towards the Gower Peninsula, to its curving shores, rolling hills and the flash of Mumbles lighthouse – a rural idyll almost close enough to touch but a world away from the city.Thomas was clearly moved by the sight; he once wrote in a letter that it was ‘one of the loveliest sea-coast stretches in the whole of Britain’. He wasn’t wrong. Measuring around 30km east to west and 10km north to south, the compact Gower (Gwyr in Welsh) is a concentrated hit of a lot of what makes Wales great. It has rough and plunging limestone cliffs, nicked with caves concealing millennia of history. It has wild commons and wooded clefts, sand dunes and saltmarsh. And it has many of the country’s finest beaches, which are swept by some of the world’s largest tides – turn your back for an hour or so, and you’ll return to see sandy bays have been swallowed whole, or submarine worlds revealed. Small wonder that, in 1956, the Gower became the country’s first designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (recently rebranded as National Landscapes).
There’s more than natural beauty here, though.Wales has more castles per square kilometre than any other country in Europe. Six of them are squeezed onto the Gower, in various states of repair. My favourite is dilapidated Pennard, which teeters above glorious Three Cliffs Bay. Dating from the 12th century, and barely clinging on in the face of encroaching dunes, it’s said to be a preferred haunt of the VerryVolk, mischievous Gower faeries that like to sing and cavort beneath the moon.
There are plenty more interesting old stories here.Take Paviland Cave where, in 1823, an ancient human skeleton was found. Research revealed that it was 33,000 years old, making it one of the oldest known ceremonial burials in Western Europe.You can visit the aptly named Brandy Cove, which was long favoured by smugglers. Or head to Culver Hole, near Port Eynon, thought to have been built in the 13th or 14th century as a dovecote, and later used as a stronghold for notorious local gangster John Lucas.
There’s much to unearth on the Gower. And, brilliantly, because of its compact proportions and accessibility, you can explore a lot over a single weekend.
Ask a local
“Grab a hearty, locally sourced breakfast at The Lookout café in Rhossili before soaking up the expansive views of the coast and Worm’s Head. Or, if you’re looking for a quieter, lesser-trodden beach, seek out Tor Bay – it’s probably my favourite. The car park is small and the trek down takes around 25 minutes, but it’s definitely worth it, to immerse yourself in the soft, golden sand and the surrounding peacefulness.”
Rebecca Jory, Gower-born artist and photographer (rebeccajoryart.com)
Alamy; Dreamstime; Rebecca Jory; Sarah Baxter; Shutterstock
Sitting by the bay (this page; clockwise from top left) The sun rises over Bracelet Bay; emerging from Paviland Cave, where the remains of the ‘Red Lady’, one of the oldest examples of a ceremonial burial in Western Europe, were found; Rhossili Bay reveals a huge expanse of picturesque beach at low tide; Pennard Castle was built in the 12th century, following the Norman invasion of Wales; (opposite page; clockwise from bottom left) the entrance to Paviland Cave; Three Cliffs Beach is backed by limestone cliffs and a wild shoreline of sand dunes, rock pools and salt marsh; the coastal trails of the Gower make for a bracing walk
DAY 1
Mumbles is the gateway to the Gower Peninsula. Browse its independent shops and cafés, stroll down the Victorian pier, visit hilltop Oystermouth Castle (swansea. gov.uk/oystermouthcastle) and buy a scoop from Joe’s (joes-icecream.com), which has been serving ice cream since 1898. It’s a simple walk along a well-laid coast path from here to Langland Bay, where smart greenwhite beach huts back the sand; Langland’s Brasserie (langlandsbrasserie.co.uk) is a lovely spot to stop for a drink. Or continue to Caswell Bay, a Blue Flag beauty that’s great for safe swimming and for exploring nearby Bishop’s Wood nature reserve. A little further along the coast is Three Cliffs Bay, a natural playground of rock pools, rock arches and barnacled boulders backed by sheer walls of limestone and lorded over by ruined Pennard Castle. If tides allow, you can mess about for hours here. Or head on to Oxwich Bay, from where Gower Coast Adventures runs boat tours to Worm’s Head, looking for dolphins, seabirds and seals (gowercoastadventures.co.uk), and where Oxwich Watersports offers coasteering, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding hire and trips (oxwichwatersports.co.uk).
DAY 2
Make for the Gower’s western tip. Rhossili, often voted Britain’s best beach, is an extraordinary 5km stretch of sand, smacked by waves and backed by a near-200m-high glacier-formed ridge. From Rhossili village, walk an 8km loop (nationaltrust.org.uk), heading along the ridge to Hillend, passing ancient cairns, then returning across the beach, past the remains of a 19th-century shipwreck. Alternatively, walk out to Worm’s Head, a tidal isle accessible via a causeway if the tides are right – check beforehand so you don’t get stranded. There are places to eat here, or hop to Llanmadoc, where the community shop doubles as a welcoming café and the 17th-century Britannia Inn serves delicious, locally sourced ingredients and real ales (britanniagower.com). In Cheriton, the next village, visit tiny St Cadoc’s church, known as the ‘Cathedral of Gower’, which dates from the 13th century. The north side of the Gower overlooks the Loughor Estuary, a completely different landscape of salt marsh and mudflats. Climb up inside 700-year-old Weobley Castle (cadw.gov.wales) to take in the view and buy Gower Salt Marsh Lamb from the on-site farm shop – the sheep graze the tidal pastures below the ramparts.
Getting there: The closest train stations are Swansea and Gowerton. The bus network is fairly comprehensive, with almost-hourly weekday services (and Sunday services in summer) on the main routes from Swansea to Rhossili and to Llanrhidian. Services to smaller villages are less frequent (traveline.cymru). A cycle lane traces Swansea Bay, linking Swansea to Mumbles. For ideas on getting around, visit swanseabaywithoutacar.co.uk and thegowersociety.org.uk.
Stayat: The King Arthur in Reynoldston is a 150-year-old inn offering rooms, cottages and good pub food (from £65pn; kingarthurhotel.co.uk). Oxwich Bay Hotel, by one of the Gower’s finest beaches, has rooms and pods (from £119pn; oxwichbayhotel.co.uk). And the National Trust has some glorious properties on the Gower, including Rhossili 1 Coastguard Cottage (pictured; from £649/three nights; nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays).
4 TOP THINGS TO DO
WALK
everywhere. The 74km Gower Coast Path loops the peninsula, offering an excellent and manageable multi-day adventure, or something to dip into for day hikes. You can also trace the Gower Way, a 56km route through the peninsula’s spine, from Rhossili to the ruins of Penlle’r Castell on Mynydd y Gwair.
DRINK
local. Sample Gower Gin at the brand’s distillery at Port Eynon. You can also visit the shop or book a tasting session in the gin garden (thegowergincompany. wales). Gower Brewery has a taproom in Mumbles where you can sink a pint of Shipwreck or Gower Gold (gowerbrewery.com).
BEACH-HOP
the coast to find plenty of unique escapes. Pwll Du, at the end of Bishopston Valley, is particularly good for safe swimming, thanks to a pebble-blocked stream that has created a large pool behind the beach. Fall Bay is near Rhossili but, as it’s tucked away and requires a walk to reach, is seldom busy.
SEEK
ancient sites. There are plenty, including the Neolithic tomb of Giant’s Grave, the 3m-high Samson’s Jack standing stone and Leather’s Hole – a small cave where mammoth bones have been found. The Cefn Bryn ridge is dotted with ancient cairns, including Arthur’s Stone; it’s said the enormous capstone was tossed here by King Arthur himself.
Alamy; National Trust Images/Mike Henton; Shutterstock
Historic coast (above; left to right) The 12th-century Oystermouth Castle was built by Henry Beaumont, the first Norman lord of Gower, who built many of the castles scattering the peninsula; glimpsing out over the Worm’s Head and Rhossili Bay, where you can still see part of the Helvetia, a ship wrecked in 1887, on the beach at low tide
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Next issue on sale 30 January 2025
Our editors pick the destinations that deserve the spotlight in the year ahead
The Three Guianas Capitals of Culture 2025 The Great Gatsby’s USA Indigenous British Columbia The Natural Wonders of Saint Lucia Northern Namibia
Alamy
Create your 2025 bucket list with KE Adventure
With a new year looming, it’s as good a time as any to create your ultimate travel wish list. Let KE Adventure help you make it a reality…
Get a jump on your travel plans and make 2025 the year you take that trip of a lifetime. Whether you’re flying solo or with young explorers in tow, KE Adventure has the inside track on hundreds of destinations. With its expertly crafted itineraries, all you need to do is pack your bags.
Take on an epic trail
Nothing beats catching that first glimpse of Machu Picchu at sunrise after four days trekking through the Peruvian Andes. Sure, the classic route is iconic but KE’s Choquequirao to Machu Picchu trip has you camping out on Inca terraces, trekking while condors soar overhead and exploring the much lesser-visited Inca city of
Choquequirao, before crowning your journey at Machu Picchu itself.
Or perhaps a cross-border trek in the Alps? Situated at the junction of France, Italy and Switzerland, the glaciated massif of Mont Blanc is circled by one of the world’s most popular long-distance hikes – the Tour du Mont Blanc. Join an expertled group expedition like KE’s unique
New horizons (top to bottom)
Explore the Okavango Delta in a traditional dugout canoe known as a mokoro; take your adventures to new heights (literally) by taking on the alpine Tour du Mont Blanc trail
Ultimate Tour du Mont Blanc trip, where you’ll hop from hut to hut, or complete the trek at your own pace on the Self-Guided Tour du Mont Blanc. For less altitude and all of the thrill, consider the Camino de Santiago. First mapped out in the 9th century as a pilgrimage to the remains of St James the Apostle in Santiago, you don’t need to be religious to undertake this 115km-long ramble nowadays. Walk or cycle with KE Adventure past historic towns, medieval bridges and Roman ruins, with plenty of moments to immerse yourself in the Spanish culture.
Climb a mountain
A trip with KE Adventure will take you to new heights. Soaring a whopping 5,895m above sea level, Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest
free-standing mountain in the world. Because it has so many different climate zones, climbing it is said to be like going from the equator to the North Pole in a week. But why stop there? On KE’s Climb Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro trip, you’ll first summit Point Lenana on Mount Kenya across the border, priming your lungs for the ultimate ascent up Kilimanjaro and getting two chances to watch sunrise above the clouds. Or, stretch out your time exploring the contrasting landscapes and wildlife on the quieter Rongai, Lemosho or Northern routes. Alternatively, the trek to Concordia at the foot of K2 (8,611m), the secondhighest peak on Earth, is a classic. It was KE’s first-ever organised trek and remains a favourite today. From K2’s Base Camp, trek to the junction of glaciers known as Concordia, the place described by US adventurer
Galen Rowell as ‘the throne room of the mountain gods’. Or take on Mera Peak, whose summit offers panoramas of five of the world’s 8,000m-high mountains.
Do something wild
Most people dream of seeing the Arctic but few set out to do it. With KE Adventure, make it a reality and channel your inner Roald Amundsen as you travel to one of the world’s northernmost inhabited areas, Svalbard, for 10 days of exploring arctic fields and fjords, with the chance to see arctic foxes, seals and reindeer. Swap Svalbard for the opposite end of the Earth on KE’s Antarctica – Weddell Sea and Polar Circle Expedition to admire the continent’s wildlife-rich waters. At the equator, nowhere offers a walk on the wild side quite like Southern Africa, home to the continent’s most diverse game reserves. Spot the Big Five and myriad other creatures in the Moremi Game Reserve, cruise the Chobe River and drive across the Makgadikgadi salt pans on KE’s 15-day Botswana Wildside Lodge Safari. Want more? Spy the region’s big-ticket items like Victoria Falls, the Namib desert and Etosha National Park on KE’s threeweek Great Southern Safari
Travel icons (clockwise from top left) The summit of Mount Kilimanjaro; have an icy adventure in Antarctica; climb lofty dunes like Sossusvlei in Namibia; see the iconic site of Machu Picchu; spy leopards in Botswana’s Chobe National Park; the Karakoram was the location of KE’s first trip in 1984; see breaching humpback whales in the Arctic
About the experts
Established in 1984, KE Adventure has 40 years of experience in curating small group adventures led by expert local guides. It was started by intrepid travellers Glenn Rowley and Tim Greening, who led the first expedition-style trek to K2 in Pakistan’s Karakoram Mountains with the help of local guide Mohammed Iqbal, whose son they still work with today. KE Adventure now operates some 370 trips in 100 countries to suit all travel styles and tastes, from selfguided walking holidays to family adventures, and from solo travel to private group tours.
Wildlife of Latin America quiz
Think you know your motmots from your muriquis? Tapirs from toucans? Test your knowledge of Latin America’s wildest creatures in this issue’s untamed quiz
1 Capybaras are native to South America. They are also the largest living _____ in the world?
a. Marsupial
b. Primate
c. Reptile
d. Rodent
2 The yigüirro is Costa Rica’s national bird. But what is it more commonly known as?
a. Clay-coloured thrush
b. Motmot
c. Resplendent quetzal
d. Silver-throated tanager
3 Name the only native species of bear to be found in South America.
a. Grizzly bear
b. Sloth bear
c. Spectacled bear
d. Sun bear
4 Relative to its size, the black howler monkey is the _____ land animal in the world?
a. Cleverest
b. Fastest
c. Loudest
d. Strongest
5 Common to Central and northern South America, the basilisk lizard is also known as the ‘Jesus Christ lizard’ for what reason?
a. It plays dead around predators, then rises
b. It can go around 40 days without eating
c. It has red marks on the soles of each foot
d. It ‘walks’ (runs) on water
6
In which archipelago would you expect to find the most northerly penguin species in the world?
a. Chiloé, Chile
b. Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
c. Galápagos, Ecuador
d. San Blas, Panama
7 The smallest wild cat in the Americas can be found in Chile and Argentina. But what is this tiny feline called?
a. Geoffroy’s cat
b. Kodkod (güiña)
c. Ocelot
d. Oncilla
8
Peru’s Colca Canyon is one of the best places in the world to see which bird?
a. Andean condor
b. Greater rhea
c. Inca tern
d. Scarlet macaw
9
Brazil is home to 131 species of primate, including the ‘hippie monkey’ – nicknamed in honour of its peaceful nature. But what is it more commonly called?
a. Capuchin monkey
b. Common marmoset
c. Muriqui
d. Titi monkey
10 This bird (pictured) is found across Latin America and is the most powerful eagle in the world! What is it?
a. Bald eagle
b. Golden eagle
c. Harpy eagle
d. Sea eagle
11
The kinkajou is found in the rainforests of Central and South America. It is also one of just two carnivorous mammals in the world to have _____ ?
a. A poisonous bite
b. A prehensile tail
c. No teeth
d. A dislocatable jaw
12
The critically endangered axolotl salamander is found in just a handful of lakes in which country?
a. Guyana
b. Mexico
c. Nicaragua
d. Venezuela
Plan your Greek getaway to the serene
Ionian islands
Experience a slower, more sustainable side to Greece by island-hopping with
The Ionians are known as Greece’s greenest islands. Carpeted in pines and olive groves, their shores are lined with silky sands and cliffbacked beaches, while time seems to stand still in its traditional villages. Discover their natural beauty and culture on an immersive journey with Sunvil, the award-winning Greek travel expert, which celebrates 50 years of arranging unforgettable escapes in 2025. Flexibility is key to each Sunvil trip, which is tailored to individual tastes.
CORFU
Start in Corfu with a wander down the narrow, cobbled lanes of its Venetian Old Town and elegant Liston promenade, inspired by Paris’ Rue de Rivoli. There may even be a concert or exhibition to attend in
enormous Spianada Square. Sunvil includes an optional full-day 4WD tour of Corfu’s dramatic north-west coast, or alternatively an olive-oil tasting experience.
PAXOS
Next up is Paxos, the smallest Ionian island but one of the most romantic, thanks to its bijou seaside villages and white-pebble coves. Stroll through olive groves and cypresses, feel the frisson of a sunset at Erimitis and join in the evening buzz in Gaios, Lakka and Loggos. Sunvil can arrange a day excursion to Antipaxos, famous for its pair of white beaches and turquoise waters.
LEFKAS
Friendly, laid-back Lefkas (Lefkada) is a bulwark of ‘Old
Island in the sun (top) The Italianate town of Assos is one of the most picturesque seaside villages on Kefalonia; savour locally grown olives and olive oil tastings on Corfu
Sunvil
Greece’, due to having a unique and colourful island capital to explore, as well as a bevy of nearby islets. Sunvil includes an excursion to Lefkas Micro Farm to see, smell, touch and taste the best of rural Greece. There’s also an option to visit the embroidery museum, the beautiful west coast, and a day trip to the under-theradar island of Kalamos, home to magical sands and a 19th-century Byzantine monastery.
MEGANISSI
Idyllic little Meganissi is a symphony of blue-green, its wildly indented coast washed by crystal-clear seas. Life is slow-paced and focused on the water. Sunvil offers guests a day’s boat hire, or an excursion to nearby Lefkas, sailing past verdant, tiny islands, including Skorpios – once owned by Aristotle Onassis.
Sunvil Itineraries
7 nights on three islands: Corfu, Paxos and Lefkas
Itinerary: 2 nights on Corfu, 2 nights on Paxos and 3 nights on Lefkas
10 nights on four islands: Corfu, Paxos, Meganissi and Ithaca
Itinerary: 1 night on Corfu, 3 nights on Paxos, 3 nights on Meganissi and 3 nights on Ithaca
14 nights on six islands: Corfu, Paxos, Lefkas, Kefalonia, Ithaca, Zakynthos
Itinerary: 3 nights on Corfu, 2 nights on Paxos, 3 nights on Lefkas, 2 nights on Kefalonia, 2 nights on Ithaca and 2 nights on Zakynthos
ITHACA
A mythical aura lingers over Ithaca. Today it’s a serene, strongly traditional island with attractive villages, sparsely populated beaches and a green and mountainous interior. Hike along Ithaca’s innumerable
trails, seeking out places mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey, or relax with an ouzo by the harbour of Ithaca’s capital, Vathy, and watch the world go by. Sunvil can also arrange snorkelling, diving and boat trips around Ithaca’s enchanting shores.
KEFALONIA
On Kefalonia, take a car journey to taste the wines of the Robola estates,
The coast is clear (this page; clockwise from top left) Kefalonia is home to colourful doorways; Zakynthos boasts a lovely square and charming tavernas; be awed by the views over Shipwreck Beach on Zakynthos; join in the gentle buzz of Gaios on Paxos; take a waterfront sunset stroll in Vathy on Ithaca
visit the Castle of Agios Georgios or lunch in the picture-perfect seaside village of Assos. Don’t miss a drive up the highest peak, Mount Ainos (1,628m), where the breathtaking view takes in the Ionian islands as if they were laid out on a deep-blue platter. Excursions are available including walking tours, sunset boat trips, Jeep safaris and sea kayaking.
ZAKYNTHOS
To top it all off, visitors can stay in the lively capital of the island of Zakynthos, with its handsome square and busy tavernas and bars. Just inland are rolling landscapes painted with olives and twisting vines. Best of all, at the Zante Turtle Center, you can learn about the local efforts to protect the island’s loggerhead turtle nesting beaches. There’s also some spectacular scenery to explore along the west coast, including the astonishing lookout over Zakynthos’s famous Shipwreck Beach.
Sunvil will offer a 10% saving on any Ionian islandhopping holiday of three islands or more booked before 31 December 2024.
Glenda Araya
Highly commended at Wanderlust’s 2023 World Guide Awards, Glenda talks about her love of Costa Rica’s nature and why you’ve not lived until you’ve seen a two-toed sloth
What made you want to become a tour guide in Costa Rica?
I’d been surrounded by nature ever since I was a little kid. I think that’s probably why I became a guide.When I was 19 years old, I enrolled in the University of Costa Rica to study tourism, but I found it very broad as a subject, so I decided to specialise in what I knew: nature. I became a naturalist tour guide, focusing on areas such as geography, conservation, wildlife, and even adventure tours like zip-lining and whitewater rafting.
Wasithardtobreakintoguiding?
Yes.We live in a macho culture, and there are still comparatively few female tour guides working here.You also need very broad knowledge as a guide in Costa Rica, because it has
such huge biodiversity. For example, I’ve come across around 400 bird species (out of more than 900), and I could recognise them all.
Tell us some wild facts you’ve discovered about Costa Rica’s naturethatvisitorsdon’tknow.
This country has the highest density of orchids per square kilometre in the world. It also generates 99% of its electricity from renewables.
Inthe1990s,CostaRicasetabout reversing the impact of rampant deforestation, and it succeeded where few others have. Where shouldvisitorsgotoseethegood thathasbeendonehere?
It’s hard to pick one place, because most national parks and reserves were
affected at some point by deforestation; however, I would like to mention Tortuguero National Park, which is just full of beauty and wildlife.
If you had to pick a ‘Big 5’ of Costa Rica’s must-see wildlife, what would you choose?
I’d pick two-toed sloths in Cahuita National Park; squirrel monkeys in Corcovado National Park; magenta-throated woodstar hummingbirds in Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve; green sea turtles in Tortuguero National Park; and red-eyed tree frogs in Tirimbina Biological Reserve.
As a guide, you often visit the sameareasrepeatedly.Whichdo youstilllookforwardtoseeing?
There are a couple of places in particular. One is San Gerardo de Dota, due to its amazing landscapes and birdlife; the other is Drake Bay, a remote piece of coastline on the Osa Peninsula that is great for spotting marine life.
What do most visitors here miss outonseeing?
Montezuma, in the southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula, is often skipped over. It has waterfalls, the biggest strangler figs you’ll ever see, the Cabo Blanco Absolute Reserve, a white-sand beach and an incredible mix of ecosystems!
What’s the strangest question you’ve been asked by a client?
A wild world (top & below) Glenda specialises in nature tourism in Costa Rica, showing guests the incredible wildlife and forests of a country home to nearly 6% of the world’s biodiversity
I typically get:“How big is this island?” (Costa Rica is located on mainland Central America), or “How big is Puerto Rico?” (people often confuse Costa Rica with Puerto Rico).
Glenda Araya is a tour guide for Exodus Adventure Travels (exodustravels.com)
