Surprises Of Costa Rica

Surprises of

COSTA RICA

A travel guide to the authentic, surprising and sustainable travel experiences in the land of pura vida In association with Published by

CONTRIBUTORS Steph Dyson Steph is a bilingual travel journalist, guidebook author and founder of the travel website Worldly Adventurer. Over the past ten years, she has lived in multiple countries across Latin America, and spent an entire month travelling around Costa Rica to learn how it has become a world-leading sustainable tourism destination.

on the ground and behind the scenes, he recently set himself the ambitious task of creating an eco-documentary in Costa Rica. With a history of radical changes in its environmental protection policies, he found Costa Rica was filled with diverse organisations working to connect and restore nature – and to reconnect us to nature as well.

Rachel Truman Rachel is a Londonbased travel writer who loves swimming in warm seas, being in the mountains and sniffing around food markets. She fell in love with Costa Rica and its street food, easy-going adventures and super-cute wildlife.

Meera Dattani Meera is a freelance travel journalist, executive editor at Adventure.com and a huge fan of Costa Rica.

With an interest in community-led tourism, food and cultural heritage, soft adventure and conservation, Costa Rica is a natural fit for her kind of travel, thanks to its incredible biodiversity, rich culture and abundant wildlife.

Neel Zaver Neel is a biologist and creative using his work to showcase the inspiring actions of organisations around the world for the environment, conservation and the planet. His goal is to instil hope by profiling those working to create a positive future for us all. Having worked with conservation projects, both

Ash Bhardwaj Ash is a journalist and broadcaster whose work sits at the intersection of travel and current affairs.

He has written about Indigenous cultures in many countries, including Finland, Norway, Sudan, New Zealand and Nepal, and his debut book, Why We Travel, features a chapter on Costa Rica.

Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros Founding Editor Lyn Hughes Writers Steph Dyson, Rachel Truman, Neel Zaver, Ash Bhardwaj, Meera Dattani Special Features Managing Editor Rosie Fitzgerald Regional Editor Laura Field Associate Editor Gareth Clark North America Editor Jacqui Agate Digital Editor Jessica Reid Art Director Graham Berridge Art Editor Lisa Duke Digital Creative Director Anil Karwal Digital & Social Media Executive Nefeli Syriopoulou Chief Commercial Officer Adam Lloyds VP Brand Partnerships David Read Senior Creative Partnerships Manager Simon Bryson Chief Operating Officer Elliot Wellsteed-Crook Wanderlust Club Manager Maria Manta

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WELCOME TO COSTA RICA

On the prowl There is hope for Costa Rica’s jaguars yet, with NGOs such as Fundacion Jaguar helping to boost the big cat’s population

Welcome to Words: Rachel Truman

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he sun is setting on the Pacific, and I stand warming my face in the glow of the billowy pastel skies. My blissful state of peace is interrupted by a troop of shrieking capuchin monkeys.

This cheeky white-faced crew are raiding the exact mango that I’d had my eye on for breakfast. With a cursory glance from one fuzzy-browed gang member, they high-tail it into the swaying trees as I look on helplessly from my balcony perch. It is one of many moments on my trip to Costa Rica where I feel like I’ve stumbled onto the set of a nature documentary.

A few days before, I’d been exploring some of the verdant volcanic landscapes of this small country wedged between the Pacific and the Caribbean. My base was La Fortuna, a fun town in the foothills of the Tilarán Mountains that sits in thrall of the Arenal volcano.

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From my room I had ever-changing views of the active stratovolcano, whose conical form was cloaked in mist when I arrived. But an early start the next day rewarded me with an unhindered view of this behemoth. It was hard to take my eyes off it.

I hiked to see another of the region’s wonders, the La Fortuna waterfall. My steep descent to see the cascade was accompanied by fluttering butterflies, and I cooled my stinging thighs by wading into a pool downstream.

With a quarter of the country protected by national parks and reserves, this is a destination that suits active travellers. Thrills include barrelling through rapids, whizzing

above rainforests on ziplines, surfing off secluded beaches, sloth spotting and witnessing hatching turtles.

But perhaps the ultimate pleasure is knowing you’re somewhere that takes immense pride in protecting its extraordinary biodiversity and wealth of natural resources.

While I could opt to take on the churning rapids of the Balsa and Toro rivers, I chose to soak in La Fortuna’s steamy hot springs instead, then headed to Costa Rica’s etherealsounding cloud forests with a guide.

These high-altitude rainforests had long intrigued me, and the sight of Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve was as dreamy as I’d hoped.

Shutterstock

COSTA RICA

WELCOME TO COSTA RICA

Did you know?

Costa Rica is home to more than 6.5% of the world’s biodiversity.

Low-hanging clouds cloaked the treetops. There were towering strangler figs – almost nightmarish with their snaking roots – huge feathery ferns, lichen-encrusted boulders and dangling vines that I had to push aside like beaded curtains.

It was surprisingly noisy too: the constant drip and trickle of water and cacophony of birds echoed through the forest. I saw iridescent hummingbirds flit past, and my guide pointed out a northern emerald toucanet and its majestic bill. The forest has some 425 species of bird, he told me, including the luminous quetzal and the little-seen threewattled bellbird, named after its

bell-like call. Six species of feline – jaguars, ocelots, pumas, oncillas, margays and jaguarundis – also slink surreptitiously through this unique habitat, though went unseen for now.

From the forest floor, we headed up to stroll along the suspension bridges that are strung across a section of the canopy, gazing out over a hazy sea of green. But wherever I went in

Costa Rica, from the cool mountains and humid jungle-edged beaches to the city streets and cloud forests, vegetation seemingly tried to cover everything in sight. Nature definitely rules here, and the nation has embraced this with enthusiasm.

Costa Rica has long been a trailblazer for conservation, and as I travelled around the country, I found that genuinely sustainable practices are the norm here, rather than the exception. Whether it was the restaurants I ate in, the tours I took or the B&Bs and ecolodges in which I spent my nights, a deep-rooted respect for the land and dedication to protecting and preserving its abundant natural charms were a given.

Wanderlust has compiled this full guide to the country’s sustainable and authentic experiences so that you, too, can find surprises in Costa Rica.

Take a walk on the wild side (clockwise from far left) Arenal Volcano is 1,657m high; Monteverde’s suspension bridges take you up into the jungle canopy; the ocelot is just one of six species of big cats that call Costa Rica home; white-faced capuchin monkeys can be seen all over Costa Rica

For more information, go to: visitcostarica.com

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FROM THE TRADITIONAL TO THE CONTEMPORARY Fresh produce and home-style cooking, shaped by Spanish, Caribbean and Indigenous influences, will have you craving Costa Rican dishes long after you’ve left, says travel writer Rachel Truman

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ropical fruits flourish here.

Some are familiar, such as pineapples and passion fruit; others are exotic and intriguing. There is guanabana (soursop), marañón (a sour cashew fruit), pejibaye (peach palm fruit), jocote (a sour stone fruit) and bite-size nance (distilled to make a heady liquor). You’ll see fruit stands brimming with colourful produce wherever you go, while drool-worthy fruit platters are de rigueur at breakfast.

Street vendors also sell tasty Tico treats. On the Caribbean coast, look out for pati (spicy patties) and gallos, small tortillas daubed with a blob of meat or picadillo (a mixture of minced meat, vegetables and spices). Cool off with a copo – a cone of shaved ice drenched with syrup and drizzled with condensed milk. You’ll soon see why gallo pinto (smoky black beans and rice) is a national obsession. Be sure to also work your way through the array of tamales, crispy empandas and lime-drenched ceviches.

Walking tours of San Jose’s historic Central Market are a great way to try some typical Tico food. You’ll find plenty of sodas (small, low-key

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cafés serving traditional cuisine) here, dishing up local favourites such as casados – a workers’ lunch of combo-style plates that typically feature a protein, rice, picadillo, cabbage salad and trimmings such as tortillas, plantains and sauces.

Opt for arroz con camarones (rice with prawns) and whole snapper on the coast. Out there, the shores are peppered with hip beachside restaurants. On the Pacific side of the country, hit up Pangas Beach Club for its seafood-heavy Guanacaste sampler plate, and also try the steak, which has been sizzled on volcanic rocks.

For seriously refined food, book into Silvestre in downtown San José, acclaimed for its elevated take on local classics and firm focus on sustainable ingredients. Think hearts of palm cake with gremolata, white tomato sauce and crispy corn, or charcoal-grilled wahoo fish with chilli, cashew and corn broth.

In the capital, the gastronomic traditions of Costa Rica’s Indigenous people, including the Bribri Don’t leave Costa and Cabécar, are

Top tip

Rica without trying the national dish, gallo pinto (rice and beans).

preserved and showcased at Sikwa. Chef Pablo Bonilla educated himself on the age-old recipes of these communities, as well as their cooking techniques and ingredients.

You can try his spin on them in his restaurant/research centre.

Of course, you can’t enjoy the robust flavours of Costa Rica without trying the country’s prized coffee.

See where your morning brew comes from by staying on an organic coffee farm. Finca Rosa Blanca, for example, is just one of the many places in Costa Rica that takes guests on tours and tastings. While there, be sure to order a café chorreado to try the nation’s traditional pour-over coffee.

Tasty treats (this page; clockwise from top) Gallo pinto is Costa Rica’s national dish; guanabana is just one of the many exotic fruits on offer; nance is distilled to produce a liquor; San José’s Central Market is filled with fresh produce

A TRUE TASTE OF COSTA RICA

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eco-friendly farms to visit

El Toledo

Wake up and smell the coffee – literally – at this organic, family-run finca in Alajuela province, whose rustic but charming A-frame cabins overlook the plantation.

It is known for the quality of its brews and distinctly unusual coffee fruit wine.

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Hacienda Espíritu Santo

SMELL THE COFFEE

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Café Monteverde

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Finca Paraíso Orgánico

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Palmitour

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Don Juan

Did you know?

Costa Rica produces over 1.5 million bags of coffee every year.

Wake up and

Alamy; Shutterstock

To get a taste of Costa Rica’s rich coffee-growing heritage, nothing beats a stay at a coffee farm. Here’s what travel writer Steph Dyson got up to during her time at Finca Rosa Blanca, near San José ithout the glossy-red berries clinging to the branches of the shrubs in front of me, I wouldn’t have known I was on a coffee farm. Neat rows of plants had been supplanted by a hodgepodge of vegetation. The frayed leaves of banana plants reached towards a canopy of coral trees that echoed with the throaty hoot of Lesson’s motmots and cast a dappled shade.

Costa Rica has a rich history of coffee production. The plant was first introduced here in 1779, but producers have long dedicated themselves to quality over quantity. In 2002, when Glenn and Teri Jampol bought Finca Rosa Blanca, a 12-hectare coffee farm in the hills above San José, they converted to organic farming. While eschewing chemicals was key to their new approach, their greater impact came from something far simpler: they began planting thousands of trees.

“Shade-giving vegetation is just as important as the coffee plants themselves,” explained my guide

Ulises Zúñiga, as we followed a rough, calathea-lined path through the plantation. A canopy of native vegetation produces nitrogen and natural shade for the delicate arabica coffee plants, fostering a diverse ecosystem where natural predators control pests. Since the farm turned organic, bird species have increased from 40 to 145. And with a slew of awards, including Best Central American coffee, under their belt, the farm’s dedication to quality has more than paid off.

For more information, go to: visitcostarica.com

From bean to brew (top to bottom) Get hands-on with the coffee-making process at a Costa Rican farm; join locals to help out with the coffee bean harvest

This 258-hectare plantation outside San José is a more commercialised operation, growing beans for global brands such as Starbucks.

Discover local wooden handicrafts and, of course, coffee in their shop.

Run by an association of 20 families in the Monteverde highlands, this farm’s tours introduce you to the notes of cloud forest-grown coffee.

Short on time? Visit its café in nearby Santa Elena.

Learn how this pineapple plantation near La Fortuna goes against the chemicalheavy approach used by many farms. Tours finish with a pineapple juice or pina colada.

Palm hearts are on the menu at this organic farm in the north-east, where tours include a lunch of everything from ceviche to fruit salad and bread – all utilising different types of palm, of course.

Don’t miss learning the secrets of coffee, chocolate and sugar cane on a tour of one of the country’s bestknown fincas, situated not far from La Fortuna.

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A TRUE TASTE OF COSTA RICA

AT SANTIAGO’S TABLE Wanderlust’s special features managing editor, Rosie Fitzgerald, catches up with Costa Rican chef Santiago Fernández Benedetto to talk about his love of food, his country, and why sustainability is always on his menu Can you tell us about your restaurant, Silvestre?

How did you get into cooking ?

At 14, I was making my own candy recipes and selling them at school;

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at 16, after a conversation with my mother, she called chef Claudio Dubuis, the owner of Le Chandelier, one of San José’s most important restaurants back then. In a matter of days, I was working in his kitchen and thinking to myself that I was in the right place.

presented with nuances, allegory, nostalgia, folklore and playfulness. We are always loyal to the values of our country, respect for the environment, admiration for the ones who preceded us and love for what identifies us as Ticos.

How have you made sustainability a focus in your restaurant?

Is there one thing about Costa Rican gastronomy that you think may surprise visitors?

Through thinking as if we were in a crisis while enjoying abundance! That is the core value of our kitchen.

What can visitors expect from a visit to Silvestre?

An authentic and refreshing travesty of Costa Rican flavours

The freshness and high quality found in local ingredients.

What does sustainable travel mean to you?

For me, sustainable travel is being aware of one’s impact as a traveller. It is undeniable that every traveller can potentially produce a positive impact just as easily as they can enable harm or cause damage to the places that they visit.

Unethical growth and overexploitation of resources to satisfy the demands of tourism are regularly contrasted against a population that is aware of the necessity for safeguarding their ecosystems. In Costa Rica, you’ll see communities that are interested in going one step further to fix their environmental issues for the sake of the travellers who visit them.

There are examples of this in many parts of the country.

Feast your eyes (clockwise from top left) At Silvestre, innovation is always on the menu; the restaurant serves up dishes that look too good to eat; chef Santiago started making his own recipes at just 14 years old; the interior of his restaurant matches the beauty of the food

Silvestre

My partners and I opened Silvestre in July 2017 after months of trying to figure out the most convenient venue to establish a newly conceived business idea that we thought was kind of bold. Our plan was to create a new Costa Rican cuisine, inspired by our culture and our heritage. We also wanted it to be free enough to allow us to play with any modern culinary technique feasible, and we wanted to always favour what’s pure and local.

This was not being tried fully by any other chef at the time. My approach, which my partners (siblings who I previously worked with for seven years at their restaurant in La Fortuna) supported and encouraged, was slightly audacious in the sense that it was a big experiment. But I knew it was inevitable. The development of our gastronomy would be determined by the huge amount of ingredients, known or untamed, present in our wilderness and on our farms.

In 2016, I had just returned from six years of valuable lessons with a few talented chefs in Sydney, Australia.

Being around so many chefs from around the world made me yearn for the authenticity of my own country’s cuisine, and I felt I could play a part in making it prosper and shine.

“Being around so many chefs from all around the world made me yearn for the authenticity of my own country’s cuisine, and I felt I could take part in making it prosper and shine”

A quiet sail in Costa Rica’s Caňo Negro wetlands Writer Meera Dattani finds an ecotourism haven in northern Costa Rica...

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acophony is the only way to describe it. Up in the trees, orange howler monkeys are going wild. My naturalist guide, Rebeca (María Rebeca Paniagua Barboza), tells me they’re like teenagers, hanging out in the same tree, eating, pooping and sleeping. In

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this respect, they’re not dissimilar to the slow-moving sloths I’d seen earlier.

Home for the howlers is the Caño Negro wetlands in Costa Rica’s northern Alajuela province, set around Lake Caño Negro. My group sails the Rio Frío along a forest corridor, my eyes darting around for caimans,

Call of the wild (this page; clockwise from top left) You’ll likely hear a howler monkey before you see one; big cats such as the cougar can be found in the Caño Negro wetlands; look out for bright toucans; these wetlands are an important habitat for much of Costa Rica’s wildlife

AWL; Shutterstock

HOWLERS, HERONS AND HUMIDITY:

iguanas and the Jesus Christ lizard, so named because of its ability to run on water. I spot a piano bird (named after its ‘piano keys’ markings), and from a distance I can see a toucan.

Later, I spy a boat-billed heron, which Rebeca tells me is the main predator of baby turtles. Thereafter, I turn my attention to spotting these babies in an irrational rescue mission.

The trip is one giant biology lesson.

After learning that capuchin monkeys eat iguanas, I quickly accepted the circle of life here. These are fascinating primates, who have learnt the secrets of which plants hold water and how to use rocks to turn seemingly inaccessible shellfish into dinner. My guide, Marvin Araya Salas, calls them gangsters’, recalling an episode by a hotel when one capuchin posed for a photo while the rest grabbed the fruit.

Of course, the wetlands are no zoo, and that attitude goes a long way.

I know that while I may not see them, this habitat is home to endangered jaguars, cougars and ocelots. In the dry season, migratory birds head to the riverside beaches and lagoons.

Despite general environmental angst, I feel quietly confident that these wetlands will survive. Renato Paniagua Rodrígueza, who operates Caño Negro Experience Nature Tours, runs an environmental education programme for the local children, who help with wildlife monitoring; right now, there are 387 bird species here. You also hope that the Indigenous communities, who possess vast knowledge about the land and rewilding, will be consulted more when it comes to ecotourism.

Leaving the Caño Negro wetlands is another adventure. When people say Costa Rica is ‘lush’, these aren’t just words. Sugarcane, yucca, plantain… it all grows in the surrounding countryside. Costa Rica is very green, in more ways than one.

SUSTAINABILITY IN ACTION

Wins for WILDLIFE

Biologist and creative Neel Zaver heads to Sarapiqui to see how its parrot species are being protected...

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iving among the Macaw Recovery landowners, the MRN discovered a Network (MRN) team in Sarapiqui, cattle farm booming in biodiversity. we were on a mission to bring Building good relationships with the parrot species such as the great owner, they eventually purchased the green macaw back from the edge land, leading to the creation of the of extinction in the heart of the bird’s Sarapiqui Rainforest Reserve to help habitat. Once a vibrant icon of Central preserve both the habitat of the great and South American rainforests, it faces green macaw and species such as a fight for survival. Classified as critically howler monkeys and poison dart frogs. endangered, fewer than 600 I also spoke to the Women remain in Costa Rica – and Rangers at the plant less than 1,000 in the nursery in Casa del Titor, wild worldwide. originally formed to We carried out nest help six women from Costa Rica is home monitoring throughout Boca Tapada who were to 28 national parks, wider Sarapiqui, displaced from their three of which are tracking both the jobs during Covid-19. It UNESCO Sites. health and population was so successful that it numbers of the great green continued, and Casa del Titor macaw. I was shown how plant nursery was established in community collaboration had been 2022. It has helped to protect key plant integral to MRN’s operations – not only species such as the mountain almond to help protect critically endangered tree, which is crucial for the great species, but also to promote local green macaw. It also allows women in stewardship and education around rural communities to become primary ancestral land. While speaking to local income earners. A win-win.

Did you know?

3 more wildlife success stories Costa Rica is home to more than 500,000 species, representing about 6.5% of the world’s total biodiversity. With its tropical climate, diverse topography and variation in altitudes, the country houses many protected ecosystems, from tropical rainforests and dry forests to coastal areas, mangroves and cloud forests. This has made it a magnet for organisations at the forefront of species protection. Here are just three of them:

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Turtles

Costa Rica is a global hotspot for sea turtle nesting, providing a critical habitat for both olive ridleys and leatherbacks. They face numerous threats, including habitat loss, pollution and illegal poaching. Organisations such as the Sea Turtle Conservancy have been conducting research and conservation in Tortuguero since the 1950s, making significant strides in the protection of both species. There has been increased hatchling survival of olive ridleys during mass nesting events, while habitat protection and bycatch reduction has led to signs of population recovery for the leatherback.

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Cat calls Huge efforts are underway to protect the jaguar in and around Costa Rica

For more information, go to: visitcostarica.com

Jaguar

The largest cat in the Western Hemisphere, jaguars have been eradicated from nearly 50% of their historic range.

NGOs such as Panthera have driven population recovery throughout Costa Rica and wider Central America with the establishment of their Jaguar Corridor initiative, connecting jaguar populations from Mexico to Argentina.

Their Parties to CITES (the Convention on

International Trade in Endangered Species) have adopted resolutions to eliminate jaguar poaching, mitigate threats to connectivity and recognise jaguars as the flagship species of the Americas.

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Macaws

The scarlet and great green macaws are among Costa Rica’s most recognisable birds, but they are also the most endangered parrots in the world.

Fortunately, the Macaw Recovery Network has been working hard towards helping them bounce back. In the field, they apply scientifically regimented strategies to protect vulnerable nests, monitoring and studying wild populations. They also create breeding centres for rescued scarlet and great green macaws, providing them with the best quality of life and the opportunity to form partner bonds and breed as they would in the wild.

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Meet the LOCALS

Community-based tourism is a great way to see the most authentic side of a country and get stuck in with conservation projects, all while supporting and getting to know the locals at the same time.

Luckily, Costa Rica has ample experiences to choose from, as Steph Dyson finds out here’s no guarantee we’ll see anything,” warned our guide, Pierro, as our small group clambered quietly onto the shore. We crossed the strip of land between the channels of Tortuguero National Park and the Caribbean Sea, then a murmur came through the radio.

Pierro gestured towards the left and we extinguished our torches.

Soon, we found her. The green sea turtle was unaware of her audience, and we stood in hushed reverence as she laid eggs into her painstakingly dug crater. “They can lay up to 110 in one night,” Pierro whispered.

By a twist of fate, she had chosen to nest here; across the border, in Nicaragua, subsistence hunting of this endangered species is still legal.

But through a 40-year collaboration between the international non-profit Sea Turtle Conservancy and the community, Tortuguero National Park’s

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green sea turtle population has seen an increase of 417% (1971–2003). More than 40,000 green sea turtles make their annual pilgrimage to the park’s 24km strip of beach.

To watch, it’s mandatory to be accompanied by a certified local guide, and timings are strictly controlled to avoid disturbing the

Beach escape (this page; top to bottom) A boat tour is a great way to see more of the wildlife that lives in this national park: Tortuguero NP is an important nesting site for green sea turtles

turtles. So, after a few minutes, we moved on, passing trenches of sand flattened by scaly bellies in their laborious haul up the beach. I wouldn’t be there two months later to watch the hatchlings erupt from their nests, but I felt safe in the knowledge that when they returned, they would find refuge once again.

3 more community-based tourism experiences

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Bijagua de Upala

Visit local cacao farms in Costa Rica’s volcanoflanked highlands. As well as getting to taste the chocolate, you can learn about the cultural significance of this sacred bean to rural communities across the ages.

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Sarapiqui

Inspired by the natural world and Indigenous customs, Sarapiqui’s artisans make craft jewellery, clothing and ornaments using banana stem fibres, natural dyes and locally sourced wood.

They are great sustainable souvenirs to take home.

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Reserva Santa Elena

This community-run cloud forest reserve receives far less footfall than nearby Monteverde, but it’s possible to spot resplendent quetzals – an electric green, mohawkcoiffed bird – dozing in the forest canopy.

Alamy; Shutterstock

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CULTURAL COSTA RICA

SUSTAINABLE STAYS Going green doesn’t mean compromising on luxury.

Steph Dyson reports on Costa Rica’s best eco-stays Costa Rica flies the flag globally for sustainable tourism and has a slew of lodgings offering ample green choices for your trip. Some are engaged in pioneering scientific research, others have even helped shape governmental environmental policy – these hotels have serious eco-credentials

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SCP Corcovado Wilderness Lodge

Hidden in a private reserve in the Osa Peninsula, this newly renovated five-star lodge has opened a crossdiscipline research centre where local marine biologists and international scientists work on a pioneering ocean-land collaboration. Guests can also participate in citizen-science projects, tracking turtles or recording pods of migrating humpback whales. scphotel.com/corcovado

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Finca Rosa Blanca

Considered among the pioneers of regenerative tourism in Costa Rica, this organic coffee farm and hotel was one of the first carbon-neutral lodgings in the country. Owner Glenn Jampol even helped write the standards for Costa Rica’s Certification of Sustainable Tourism. Since 1985, its team has planted over 5,000 native trees, and it employs only Costa Rican staff. fincarosablanca.com

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Lagarta Lodge

Set in the Nicoya Peninsula, this luxury coastal lodge manages the adjoining Nosara Biological Reserve, which protects mangrove forests and 270 species of wildlife. A portion of all room rates support local conservation and educational projects, while an on-site art gallery exhibits contemporary work from the Maleku people, showcasing the region’s Indigenous heritage. lagartalodge.com

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Senda Monteverde

Surrounded by Costa Rica’s biodiverse cloud forest, this hotel only employs local staff, with most hailing from within walking distance. A backof-the-house tour shows guests everything from its solar energy and water conservation systems to the greenhouse where it has grown the 5,500 (and counting) native plants that are being used to replant the hotel’s deforested grounds. sendamonteverde.com

Nature sleeps (this page; top to bottom) Lagarta Lodge’s infinity pool overlooks the Nosara Biological Reserve; sustainability is at the heart of Finca Rosa Blanca; the hotel sits in 12 hectares of reforested land

Find more stays:

visitcostarica. com/en/costa-rica/ planning-your-trip/ accommodations

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Lapa Rios Lodge

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Selva Verde Lodge

This off-grid lodge on the Pacuare River was founded by Rafael Gallo, whose activism against the damming of the Pacuare changed governmental legislation around the use of environmental impact studies in infrastructure projects. It was built using reclaimed materials and runs on solar and hydroelectric energy. Since 1989, its team has planted 30,000 trees to restore the surrounding rainforest. rioslodge.com

This private reserve and ecolodge in north-eastern Costa Rica has a non-profit which supports English-language and environmental training in local communities, as well as ecotourism projects. Opt for a homestay with a local family or learn from an expert naturalist guide through its evening lecture series. selvaverde.com

Carbon offsetting A return flight from London to San José produces 968kg of carbon per passenger. Costa Rica is working towards net-zero emissions by 2050, a goal in line with the 1.5°C trajectory set out in the Paris Agreement. Advances have been made, with the government passing a moratorium on oil exploration and exploitation that has been extended until 2050.

For more information, go to: visitcostarica.com

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Did you know?

Around 114,000 Indigenous people live in Costa Rica

Meeting the Indigenous peoples of Costa Rica not only allows you to support local communities, but it also opens up a world of unique experiences and a history few visitors see, as travel writer Ash Bhardwaj discovers...

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uring Costa Rica’s colonial era, the remoteness of the southern Talamanca Mountains sheltered the region’s Indigenous Bribri people. This helped them to preserve their culture, but it can still be challenging to reach the area today.

The Yorkin River, which marks part of Costa Rica’s border with Panama, is the best highway through this terrain.

I took a dugout canoe from a slipway in Bambú to reach Yorkin Indigenous Reserve. Racing upstream over

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rapids, we pulled in at a stone beach where two children played in the river, watched over by their father.

The jungle here teems with life, and the Bribri use that bounty for everything, ranging from camphor sap that repels mosquitoes to a plant that they chew for toothache.

Much of what I thought was jungle turned out to be the gardens of villagers, with plant species piled around each other and butterflies flitting between branches.

Local eats (this page) Meet the Bribri and help them to prepare traditional meals while learning about their way of life

Alamy; Visit Costa Rica

THROUGH INDIGENOUS EYES

“We don’t farm monocultures,” said Albin, a guide who lives in the village, “because the plants evolved to work in harmony: the legumes put nitrogen into the soil and banana trees put down potassium, so we don’t need artificial products or fertilisers.”

As we walked towards the village, Albin plucked from a tree an orangeand-green fruit shaped like a ribbed rugby ball. It was about the length of my handspan.

“This is the cacao tree,” said Albin, tenderly touching the trunk. “Our mythology says that it was the most beautiful tree in paradise, and that it came to Earth as a gift.” He split the fruit in half to reveal white flesh and tightly packed seeds. “The flesh is sweet,” he said, “but the seeds need to be prepared.”

In a clearing of thatched houses balanced on stilts, we entered a white wooden hut that was lined with racks of reddish-brown seeds.

“We leave them to ferment for a week,” he said. “That’s when the chocolate flavour develops, thanks to enzymes and microorganisms. Then we dry them in the sun.”

CULTURAL COSTA RICA Albin toasted a handful on the stove, then rolled them with a stone and tossed them in a large pan. This separated the lighter shell from the toasted inner flesh, or ‘nibs’, which he poured into a hand grinder. As he turned the handle, thick paste oozed from the grinder and the deep, rich scent of dark chocolate filled the hut.

This was pure cacao butter, speckled with flecks of toasted nibs.

The Bribri dry it and sell it to tourists, and it creates the best chocolate that I have ever eaten when added to condensed milk.

“It is strange,” Albin said. “Cacao was important to our ancestors; it is a sacred plant that made us strong, physically and spiritually. Now it’s one of the main reasons tourists come.

They learn our story through the story of cacao, and their income helps to keep our culture and community alive.

“So, we look after the cacao tree because it looks after us.”

Crafty business (this page; clockwise from left) Wooden masks are created by the Boruca to wear during the Danza de los Diablitos ceremony; purchasing crafts from official reserves is a good way to ensure your money is going to Indigenous communities

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Places to meet Indigenous peoples in Costa Rica

Around 114,000 Indigenous people – of eight major ethnic groups – live in Costa Rica. Not all Indigenous communities want to receive tourists, so be respectful and only visit through verified operators.

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The Kèköldi Indigenous Territory

The Kèköldi are part of the Bribri, whose culture is rooted in ecosystem conservation.

Their 4,865-hectare territory is at the base of the Talamanca Mountains.

Visitors can enjoy a 2.5-hour hike through the jungle, which passes traditional cacao gardens. You will encounter mammals, reptiles and amphibians, then finish at an old ceremonial ground that is now home to a research centre; there you can contribute to a bird-monitoring programme.

Last season, it counted over 3 million birds of 17 different species, including peregrine falcons and plumbeous kites.

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Maleku Indigenous group

While the Maleku are Costa Rica’s smallest Indigenous group by population, they protect their culture through reforestation.

The Maleku believe that forest animals are their relatives, and their plant-medicine is widely respected. Tourist revenue helps them to reclaim land around their territory, near La Fortuna in northern Costa Rica, and plant the trees that sustain this way of life.

For more information, go to: visitcostarica.com

The Maleku offer a tour that starts before sunset with an introduction to their culture and philosophy. It then continues with a night walk in the forest, allowing visitors to see the nocturnal wildlife that they have lived in harmony with for centuries.

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Boruca Indigenous group

The Boruca live in a selfgoverned territory along the Panama border and are wellknown for their craftwork. Their painted balsa-wood masks, decorated with woven cloth, are integral to the ‘Danza de los Diablitos’ ceremony, which celebrates their resistance to the Spanish Conquistadors.

Imitation masks are sold across the country, but a group of Boruca women have fought to reclaim this heritage and make it part of the local economy. Stay in family homes to learn about Boruca art, their festivals and their fight for recognition as well as independence.

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F

rom wild music festivals and street parties to age-old handicrafts, there are many ways to connect with Costa Rica’s culture.

Join the festival

The Ticos love a good party, and feriados (festivals) pepper the Costa Rican calendar. Time your visit for any of the following, and you’ll see how the locals embrace their pura vida attitude.

There’s no fear of January blues in Palmares, which starts the year with a bang. Join in with the boisterous celebrations that take over the small central valley town for two weeks every January. Las Fiestas de Palmares brings outdoor concerts, dancing, food stalls and late-night partying, as well as traditional events such as the annual horse parade (or tope), complete with riders in full cowboy or cowgirl gear.

Visit during carnival time and you’re in for a treat, particularly in the port city of Puntarenas, which explodes in a spectacle of colour and noise. Expect street parades with costumes and energetic dancing, incredible firework displays and live music.

The laidback Limón Province on the Caribbean coast is the place to be in April. Home to a heady mix of Latino, Afro-Caribbean and Bribri cultures, the region’s diverse music styles are celebrated at the Southern Caribbean Festival. The stage for this music fest is Chiquita Beach, a usually quiet stretch of jungle-draped soft sand.

Celebrations take hold of the entire country on September 15, a national holiday that marks the date that Costa Rica gained independence from Spain in 1821. A ‘freedom torch’ is carried through El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua before reaching Costa Rica’s former capital, Cartago. You’ll also see patriotic street parades, folk dancing and flag waving erupt around the country.

Colourful COSTA RICA It’s not just the wildlife and wilderness that will wow you in this colourful country. The vibrant nation has plenty for culture-curious visitors to enjoy too, says Rachel Truman 16 www.wanderlustmagazine.com

To seek out the regional arts and crafts of Costa Rica is to unearth this small country’s creative heart. With its origins deep-rooted in rural life, the elaborate painting of handmade oxcarts (or carretas) is a tradition that started in the early 20th century.

Oxen were used to transport coffee beans from the mountains to the Pacific coast, with these colourful and customised modes of transport

Alamy; Shutterstock

Admire the art

CULTURAL COSTA RICA Cultural highlights (clockwise from far left) The Costa Rican capital is abuzz with festivities all year round; the Indigenous Chorotega people are keeping their pottery traditions alive; head to Sarchí to see hand-painted oxcarts; hundreds of horse riders fill the streets during El Tope, a celebration of the National Day of Horsemen

Did you know?

Costa Rica has been recognised as one of the happiest countries in the world.

enabling the oxherders to identify their own carts (as well as boast of their family’s social status). Many were also kitted out with bells and whistles, to play music as they were pulled along the rugged terrain. Learn about the tradition in Sarchí, a small town at the hub of the oxherding community.

Visit the communities of Guaitil and San Vicente in the Nicoya Peninsula to admire the pottery of the Indigenous Chorotega people. Made here using local clay for generations, the region’s artisans adopt the same techniques today. The ceramics are handpainted with animal designs using natural dyes. Visit the San Vicente Eco-Museum to see some examples.

Elsewhere, the Limón Province is home to the Indigenous Bribri people, who live in remote villages in the Talamanca Mountains. You can visit communities of this matrilineal society to see how natural materials are used in their handicrafts – baskets are woven with palm fibres, while jewellery is made with carved shells and seeds.

There’s a strong creative community in the Monteverde region too, with independent galleries showcasing local art. Support its women artists by visiting the Cooperative of Artisans, Santa Elena, Monteverde. Its workshop exhibits and sells decorative objects, paintings, ceramics, clothing and jewellery so these women can support themselves and their families.

Move to the music

The rhythmic beat of calypso, soca, salsa, merengue and reggae fills the air in Costa Rica, from the clubs of San José to humble sodas. At every street parade and local event, you’ll find live music and dancing.

The country’s music traditions are deep-rooted, with some of its oldest found in the Guanacaste province. Its folkloric music features the quijongo (a musical bow) and oboe-like chirimía, and it dates to pre-colonial times. Visit on Guanacaste Day in July, when the annexation of Nicoya from Nicaragua to Costa Rica in 1824 is celebrated, to see performances in costume. The province is also known for its dancing, influenced by Andalucian flamenco.

Take to the dancefloor yourself in the region’s fun-loving beach town of Tamarindo. It lures visitors with its beaches, breaks and late-night beats.

There’s always a venue with live salsa, merengue or reggae there, so stake out a seat and settle in for the night.

There’s no better time to hear the infectious rhythms and beats of the Caribbean than the Southern Caribbean Festival and the Carnaval de Limón. A vibrant celebration of local Afro-Caribbean culture, the carnival happens every October. Head to Puerto Limón to shimmy with abandon in the streets to the distinct strains of Limón calypso, soca, reggae and more.

For a more chilled out vibe, you’ll find local bands performing beachside along the coast in Cauhita and Puerto Viejo. It’s hard to beat El Sendero Beach Club in Puerto Viejo for dancing to live reggae on the sands with a guaro sour. A real taste of pura vida!

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Make it

HAPPEN

Turn your dreams of visiting Costa Rica into a reality with these trips with sustainability-minded tour operators

Costa Rica’s Coastal Secrets From the wildlife-rich waterways of Tortuguero to the dense jungle coastline of the Osa Peninsula, Exodus Travel’s Costa Rica’s Coastal Secrets itinerary shows the diversity of this nation’s nature in all its glory. Spot scarlet macaws brightening up the forests, watch humpback whales splashing in the ocean, see sloths slowly crawl along branches, and so much more.

Costa Rica Walks and Wildlife Join KE Adventure Travel on a scenic walk beneath the Arenal volcano before sinking into mud pools, bathing in hot springs, cooling off in waterfalls and seeing incredible wildlife all around. Next, you will head south to relax at the beach town of Dominical before heading to the Osa Peninsula. A boat ride will cruise you past dolphins, whales and turtles. Over at the El Copal Reserve, more walking can be enjoyed as you look out for exotic birds such as quetzals.

Discover Costa Rica From whitewater rafting and ziplining to horse riding and treks along hanging bridges, Audley Travel’s Discover Costa Rica itinerary is bound to get the heart racing. It’s not all about adrenaline though, with plenty of chances to slow down and appreciate the culture too. A stay at Pacuare Lodge will allow you to meet the Cabécares, one of the country’s largest Indigenous groups. On a hike with a Cabécar guide, you can discover the secrets of the rainforest, visit a Cabécar village and walk centuries-old trails.

Explore and Relax in Costa Rica: Volcanoes to the Beach

Costa Rica: Caribbean Rainforest Photography Workshop Perfect your wildlife snaps on this trip with Wildlife Worldwide. On the Costa Rica: Caribbean Rainforest Photography Workshop, you will travel with leading wildlife photographers Nick Garbutt and Alex Hyde, delving into the Caribbean regions of Costa Rica. With visits to Tortuguero National Park, Sarapiqui and Bosque de Paz, there will be ample opportunities to practice your skills on frogs, monkeys, sloths, birds and Costa Rica’s other wild denizens.

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This spread: Shutterstock; back cover: Shutterstock

It may be an action-packed country, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make time to chill out. On Journey Latin America’s Explore and Relax in Costa Rica: Volcanoes to the Beach itinerary, you can experience both the fast and the slow life. Spend your nights in countryside retreats and eco-lodges, and fill your days with guided excursions around the picture-perfect Arenal volcano.

You’ll also explore the Monteverde cloud forest in search of its rich bird and animal life, before finishing at a beach on the Nicoya Peninsula for the ultimate relaxation and rejuvenation.

Early birds There are some 53 species of hummingbird found in Costa Rica

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