QATAR
WELCOME
Since the eyes of the world watched on as Qatar hosted the FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022, more and more people are starting to sit up and take notice of Qatar as a destination that’s well worth exploring for its own merits. Doha is being seen as less of a transit hub to other exciting places, but more as a captivating, cultural and historic city in its own right, as well as the gateway to a country full of surprises. Qatar is where the ultra-modern and stoutly traditional co-exist with frictionless ease; where where lofty ambitions and an ancient past are bound together in one hit. Futuristic architecture rises over ancient souqs that have existed in the capital for centuries; historic forts and imaginative art installations alike scatter the desert; and museums use the latest technology to present their delicate heritage in an immersive, innovative new light. It’s this refreshing balance of past and present that is starting to turn travellers’ heads, making them realise that they shouldn’t be flying over Qatar; they should be flying to it.
Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros
Founding Editor Lyn Hughes
Project Writer Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey
Project Photographer William Gray
Special Features Managing Editor Rosie Fitzgerald
Regional Editor Laura Field Associate Editor Gareth Clark
North America Editor Jacqui Agate Digital Editor Jessica Reid
Art Director Graham Berridge Art Editor Lisa Duke
Digital Creative Director Anil Karwal
Digital & Social Media Executive Nefeli Syriopoulou
Chief Commercial Officer Adam Lloyds
VP Brand Partnerships David Read
Senior Creative Partnerships Manager Simon Bryson
Chief Operating Officer Elliot Wellsteed-Crook
Wanderlust Club Manager Maria Manta
Cultural corners (this page; top to bottom)
An architectural masterpiece itself, the Museum of Islamic Art features a vast collection spanning four floors; the restored palace of Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim At Thani, considered the father of modern Qatar
CARING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT
This magazine is printed by Xcalibre Fulfilment Solutions Limited in Unit 24 Thomas Road, Wooburn Industrial Park, Wooburn Green, Buckinghamshire, UK HP10 0PE on paper certified to be from sustainable European sources. Xcalibre operate a system to manage and reduce their environmental impact. To find out more, visit www.xcalibrecomms.com
Please recycle this magazine
Published by
In association with
© Wanderlust Travel Media Ltd, 2024, ISSN 1351-4733 Published by Wanderlust Travel Media, Capital House, 25 Chapel St, Marylebone, London NW1 5DH. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. All prices are correct at time of press. No responsibility for incorrect information can be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the authors, and not necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark.
WHAT IS IT REALLY LIKE TO TRAVEL IN QATAR?
An expat who has lived and travelled in Qatar for a number of years explains why the country often captivates and surprises first-time visitors
BY ULRIKE LEMMIN-WOOLFREY
Over the years, I have met lots of people who travelled to Qatar. They often arrive full of preconceptions, drawn in by stop-over deals on the way to far-flung destinations. Without fail, they swiftly realise there is far more to this nation than malls and deserts, and always come away swearing to return again. However, things are changing fast here. A decade or so ago, pretty much only people transiting through Doha’s Hamad International Airport
had even heard of Qatar. Then the FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 took place. Suddenly there were travel articles about Qatar in magazines and newspapers around the world. Some 46 new hotels were opened in 2022 alone, with around 60% them being five-star stays. Museums, galleries and cultural centres have cropped up like mushrooms, built by the biggest names in modern architecture. And the country is continuing to evolve.
Freelance travel guide Siham Haleem says: “Fifteen years ago, I struggled to keep people busy on a two-hour city tour in Doha; now,
Star names (this page; clockwise from left) Doha’s Museum of Islamic Art was designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect IM Pei
seven hours are not enough. The country has grown in so many ways, and there is plenty to keep people occupied for a week or more.”
From Doha’s many cultural sights –world-class museums, Souq Waqif, the Corniche – to the archaeological and wild gems found around the country, visitors need to manage their time more stringently these days.
Qatar might be a relatively small nation (just over half the size of Wales), with travellers able to experience many of its varied sights on a brief visit, but it pays to take it slowly, whether soaking up the mysterious Singing Dunes or
William Gray; Visit Qatar
star-gazing out by the Inland Sea. However, the best thing is that it still isn’t overrun with tourists – and nor does it want to be.
For visitors, Qatar is well suited whether you’re after a brief cultural impression or a deeper immersion. The country is a self-contained capsule of Arabian traditions. In many places, travellers are still treated as a nice surprise, with locals interested in where you’ve come from and what you think of the country. Arabian hospitality means something in Qatar.
For instance, wander through Doha’s Souq Waqif and pop into the Majlis Al
Dama, where Qatari men congregate to play the traditional board game al dama, and they will happily stop to introduce you to the game (women and men alike). Or perhaps you’re exploring the Al Jassasiya petroglyph site when a local calls you over to show you their find. People here never seem to tire of welcoming you. Tourism might still be in its relative infancy in Qatar, but I truly hope that it forever remains one of those places over which people bond, having visited and found – to their surprise –a country like no other. A welcoming, wild, cultural pearl of the Gulf.
HOW I FOUND QATAR AS A SOLO FEMALE TRAVELLER
Instant appeal (this page; clockwise from top left) The sun sets over a dhow in the harbour; resisting temptation in Souq Waqif; Qatar is a great place for solo travellers, says Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey; wandering the halls of the National Museum in the Old Palace; a local man explains the allure of the game al dama
Let’s debunk a couple of myths deeply engrained in people’s minds straight away: women are allowed to drive in Qatar and, as long as you cover from your shoulders to your knees, the dress code here is quite relaxed. For many modern Western travellers, these might be non-negotiables, just as they are for the people of Qatar. I have always felt safe walking around, day or night, and I would approach travel here much as I would anywhere else in the world: by taking sensible precautions at all times.
As a travel writer, I am on the road a lot, and I am often alone. In the face of all the misconception, walking around in Qatar feels like a breath of fresh air. I highly recommend it as a solo destination.
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey
GETTING AROUND QATAR
Exploring
Doha
is easy, thanks to its efficient public transport and affordable taxis and Uber rides. But you’ll need a car to explore further…
Doha public transport
Within Doha you’ll find a good public network of buses, a metro system, trams and feeder buses – all of them relatively easy to negotiate. The metro system, which opened in 2019, is the perhaps best way to get around the city. It is modern, clean, efficient and safe. Its three lines (a fourth is under construction) connect you with most of Doha, including the airport. It has three types of carriage to choose from: the snazzy Gold (QAR10/£2 per trip), Standard (QAR2/40p) and Family
On the move (this page; top to bottom) Look out for Karwa taxis, which can be hailed by using an app; Msheireb Metro Station was awarded the 2020 World Special Prize Interior by the Prix Versailles
(QAR2/40p). A day pass costs from QAR6 (£1.20), and you’ll need to tap on and off. There are free feeder buses within a 2km radius of metro stations marked Metrolink.
Within Msheireb and in Lusail, in the north of Doha, there are trams that connect you to the metro system. The little Msheireb tram is free and runs roughly every 10 minutes through the area, while the Lusail tram costs QAR2 (40p) per ride.
The blue-coloured Karwa buses cover most of the areas in and around Doha that the metro does not reach, and you will need to buy a Karwa Smart Card to pay the minimum QAR2.50 fare per trip. The cards are available in supermarkets, at the airport and at Ooredoo ATMs.
Taxis and Uber
Within Doha, Karwa taxis can be hailed by using an app, as can Ubers. Both are clean, safe and cheap, with Ubers often turning up within a minute of ordering the ride. Taxis take credit cards.
Car hire
To get around outside of Doha, car hire is the best option, as the road
system is both superb and modern. Hiring a car allows you flexibility and freedom, and all you need is an international driving licence, your national driving licence and a credit card with three months of validity. Cars drive is on the right hand side here, and a larger 4WD is generally safer and more comfortable. But do not try any off-roading without an experienced driver by your side.
Tours
If you’d prefer not to self-drive, you can hire a local private guide. They are usually open to taking you where you want to go, rather than sticking to official tour itineraries. Always agree the daily price beforehand.
GET TO KNOW DOHA
The capital is far from all business. Its key cultural sights and proximity to the desert make it a great base for experiencing everything that makes Qatar special
Doha is the capital of Qatar, the gateway to the country and the centrepiece for how the nation sees itself: a modern state with tradition at its heart. You can see this writ large in the way it has developed its cultural institutions alongside a growing skyline of glassy facades.
Doha is now firmly established as an international hub. A glittering row of skyscapers by the sea, superb art and architecture, and exhibitions to rival any capital in the world affirm all this. Yet it has also retained its quiet charm, valuing tradition and culture. This is evident in places such as Souq Waqif, where the typically Qatari
day-to-day life – café culture and a preference to shop from stalls rather than malls – is prevalent. There is a distinctly Arabian feel to the city: a genuineness that so many seek in the Gulf region but find hard to pinpoint. Step outside of Doha, however, and the hum of the city is left behind within minutes. Soon the rocky desert begins to stretch to the horizon, turning sandy as you head further south. It is everything you picture when you think of an Arabian desert. Apart from a few new art installations and the odd luxury hotel, the countryside remains defiantly a playground for locals, who camp among the dunes, fly their falcons and enjoy the desert lifestyle.
What makes Doha such a superb focus for visitors is that it lies roughly in the middle of the country, making for the perfect base for day trips to Qatar’s wilder desert fringes, where it can feel like you’re miles from civilisation yet still be within a couple of hours’ drive of the capital.
Qatar’s size means that it’s less than 90 minutes by car from Doha to Zubarah Fort in the north, and around an hour to the Inland Sea in the south. These short distances allow you to be out all day, have fun, and then return to the fold of your city hotel, pop to the beach or go out for a meal in the evening. The result is that Doha is the ideal location to combine a cultural city trip with some desert adventure.
Capital delights (top) Doha’s glitzy waterfront belies a city that prizes its deep-held Arabian culture and tradition
THE UNMISSABLE HIGHLIGHTS OF DOHA
The museums, souqs and cultural quarters of the capital capture the imagination and reward the curious with some world-class exhibits and incredible public art
Doha has a manageable number of sights to see in a short visit, and many of them are conveniently strung together alongside the city’s centrepiece, Doha Bay. Offering a perfect mix of history and modernity, these five highlights showcase Qatar’s cultural traditions, as well as its love of art and design.
The Corniche
The Corniche is the link that connects many of Doha’s main attractions.
A 7km-long promenade, starting roughly at the National Museum of Qatar in the south, it leads past colourful Flag Plaza and its 119 flags, which represent all the nations living and working together in Qatar.
From there you can reach the pastel-coloured Mina District, the old Doha Port that is now filled with cafés and street art. Next come the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA) and its accompanying MIA Park, which hosts occasional film screenings and pop-up markets, then the bustling Souq Waqif. Continue past the Emir’s
New from old (this page; above) The National Museum of Qatar opened in 2019 and was built around the restored palace of Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani
Palace to Al Bidda Park and the dhow harbour; the Corniche’s finale lies among the skyscrapers of West Bay.
This path is the lifeline of the city, with its paved walkways doubling as exercise grounds, picnic areas and even art venues. If you do nothing else in Doha, a walk along the Corniche –especially at night, among the city’s twinkling lights – is a must.
National Museum of Qatar
This museum draws you in with its architecture before anything else. It was designed by French architect
Jean Nouvel to resemble a gigantic desert rose – a naturally occurring gypsum-salt formation, of which examples are for sale in the beautiful museum shop. Inside, the history of Qatar is unravelled, from prehistoric times to more recent events, in a progressive way that makes it interesting for all ages.
Don’t miss the section on pearling, to learn more about an industry that was once the lifeblood of the Gulf. And look out for the Baroda Carpet, which was designed for an Indian maharaja in the 18th century and is encrusted with some 1.5 million tiny pearls.
Souq Waqif
Right in the heart of the old town, roughly halfway along the Corniche, lies Souq Waqif, a traditional bazaar whose maze-like lanes are filled with stalls selling everything from cloth to spices, trinkets to kitchen wares, and even falcons. Cafés and restaurants fill the souq with
Feast your eyes (this page; clockwise from top left)
The Masjid of Katara is decorated with an exquisite turquoise-and-purple mosaic; the Museum of Islamic Art explores works from three continents spread over 1,400 years; a stroll along the Corniche is the ideal way to take in the glittering skyline of Doha; Souq Waqif is packed with stalls, art, gold and, surprisingly, falcons, camels and horses
a buzzing atmosphere, while the area truly comes to life after dark.
Find your way to the falcon souq, where a single bird can set you back thousands of pounds; there is even a dedicated falcon hospital here. Look out too for the stables of thoroughbred Arabian horses – many of which are agreeable to having their noses rubbed – and the haughty camels of the Emiri Special Guard.
Museum of Islamic Art
Perched on its own island and designed by the late IM Pei, the Museum of Islamic Art is a world-class museum with an astonishing collection of Islamic art pieces from around the world. From beautiful examples of the holy Quran to fantastic carpets, porcelain, paintings and decorative items, the collection is quite unique. Head out onto the terrace to the left of the entrance for iconic views of Doha through the arches. Afterwards, walk the length of MIA Park, which
bends around the museum for views across the entirety of Doha Bay. The park is studded with cafés and food stalls, and it culminates at Richard Serra’s 24m-high 7 art installation –the tallest public art piece in Qatar.
Katara Cultural Village
Katara Cultural Village is a waterfront neighbourhood that brings together shaded alleyways, art galleries, countless cafés and restaurants. It is also a hub for exhibitions such as the annual Arabian Horse Festival, as well as falconry displays and musical and theatre performances.
Within its terracotta-coloured buildings you will find traditional pigeon coops, a mosque covered entirely in shimmering gold tiles and an amphitheatre. There are also small, specialised museums such as the stamp museum, plus a planetarium, the Katara Opera House and street-art murals. This is a perfect spot to just lose yourself in the afternoon.
HOW TO GET BACK TO QATAR’S ROOTS IN DOHA
Meet the locals who continue to make Souq Waqif what it is: a bastion of traditional crafts and culture, as well as the beating heart of Doha
Across the vast Arabian Peninsula, the Bedouin always roamed freely, never settling for long. Instead, they moved from market to market – places where they could rest for a few days, exchange news, trade gossip and sell or swap their merchandise. Here they would meet up with others, tell stories that would become history and offer poems that dealt with daily life, longing and their hopes.
In some ways, things haven’t changed in Qatar’s markets. While the rest of the world has embraced social media as a speedier way to spread news; in Arabia, the old tradition of meeting up at cafés, talking to storekeepers, playing games with others and simply sitting together, ruminating about the world, is still very much a way of life.
In Doha, there are plenty of smaller markets to explore, from the beautiful fish market in the Old Port to the weekly Torba farmers’ market in Education City. But neither are quite as effective in keeping the age-old traditions going as Souq Waqif. Here, the whole city comes together to buy daily necessities and desirable oddities. But mostly, the souq is a place to keep the culture and traditions of Qatar and its people alive. It’s a typical marketplace, filled with voices and full of history and long-established customs.
Just a walk around Souq Waqif introduces visitors to Qatar’s myriad voices…
Adil
Falcon vendor
Late September is the time to buy falcons for the upcoming season. This is when Adil is busiest at the Falcon Souq (within Souq Waqif).
“This white gyrfalcon, called Rambo, is worth US$12,000, but he is cheap compared to some, which cost up to US$800,000,” he explains. “Peregrine falcons are popular for their recordbreaking speed when hunting, but others are bought for beauty contests or for breeding. Most Qatari families have at least one falcon; they keep and spoil it for five or six years maximum before setting it free in the wild.”
Mashael Al Hejazi
Qatari photographer
Mashael Al Hejazi can often be found taking pictures or exhibiting in Souq Waqif. She says: “In my photography, I focus on capturing elements such as traditional souqs, falconry, dhow boats or the stunning desert landscapes – symbols of Qatar’s history and cultural identity. Through exhibitions, publications or social media, photography acts as a bridge between past and present, fostering a deeper understanding of Qatar’s cultural legacy, both locally and internationally.” You can see her work in The Ned Doha.
Mashael Al Hejazi; William Gray; Visit Qatar; ‘Ahmed Al Salem’ image courtesy of QLife
Saad Ismail Al Jassim
Pearl diver
Saad Ismail Al Jassim has lived quite a life. Now a shopkeeper in Souq Waqif, he’s also been a bodybuilder, entertainer and poet. But it’s his status as one of the country’s last living pearl divers that makes him such a bastion of Qatari heritage. After becoming a diver at 18, he fell in love with pearls, despite the harsh conditions he underwent at sea, where he had only his diving weights, oyster basket and nose clip for company. He later opened a pearl shop in Souq Waqif, where he shows memorabilia from his adventures to anyone who wants to see them.
Ahmed Al Salem Bisht vendor
Since 1958, the tailoring shop Besht Al-Salem has been crafting the ornate Arabian cloak known as a bisht in the bustling heart of Souq Waqif. Ahmed Al Salem has carried on the family tradition of creating this iconic garment: “The bisht is more than just fabric; it’s a representation of appreciation and respect, reserved for special occasions.” In 2022, Ahmed and Besht Al-Salem were thrust into the limelight after one of their bishts was given to Lionel Messi upon winning the 2022 FIFA World Cup – a crowning moment in the family story.
Khalid Al Bader Al dama expert
In the heart of Souq Waqif lies the Majlis Al Dama, a meeting place where locals come together to play the traditional game al dama. Two players have 16 game pieces each and play on a board divided into 64 squares. Akin to the game of checkers or drafts, the final objective is to wipe your opponent’s pieces off the board by leaping over them. It is a game of strategy, and players sit and scheme many potential moves ahead before committing. Khalid al Bader, who oversees the Majlis al Bader, loves to teach the game to newcomers, but also takes a fiendish delight in winning against them. He explains: “The game originates from the Romans and was brought to Qatar some 200 years ago by the Ottomans.” Originally popular with fishermen who played it during their break on land, Al Bader says that pretty much every house in Qatar owns a board or two.
Prashab Dhow builder
At the Al Galaf store in Souq Waqif, the best-selling items are undoubtedly the intricately carved miniature dhows that are made by stall-owner Prashab. Complete with rigging, and carved from a single piece of teak, they are popular gifts that are typically given to important visitors. Prashab takes around three hours to carve each hull. He explains: “I learnt this craft from my family in India. They are dhow builders, who create real-size dhows, constructing them for use in Qatar. I make them locally in miniature.”
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO THE MANY FLAVOURS OF QATAR
Get to know your machboos from your mahalabiya, and discover the culinary treats of Qatar – plus the best places to find them in the capital…
A taste of Qatar (this page; clockwise from top) See Qatar through your stomach by trying its traditional dishes; mahalabiya is a little similar in texture to Italian panna cotta; start the day with breakfast at Shay Al Shomous restaurant in Souq Waqif; there is nothing more soothing than a mug of karak
Dishes in the Arabian Peninsula tend to cross borders rather liberally, with local adjustments or preferences added to recipes that might look similar to the casual observer but taste very different. These versions are cherished by locals, who wouldn’t have them any other way. There are some dishes, however, which are more distinctly Qatari than others. Here are some of the more popular local favourites, and the Doha restaurants in which you can try them yourself.
Karak
You can find mugs in the souvenir shops of Qatar that state: ‘Keep Calm and Drink Karak’. This very much sums up the local attitude. Karak, in its simplest form, is sweet, milky tea; to this are added spices and a good measure of ginger, to create a moreish drink that is drunk day and night.
Machboos
There are many spellings and variations on machboos, the national dish of Qatar. Its basic recipe is rice with chicken or lamb and whole spices. This makes for a really smoky taste. Every family and restaurant has their own specific recipe, and all are invariably comforting and delicious.
Madrooba
This is Qatari comfort food at its best. Madrooba is a slow-cooked stew of rice and chicken (in some places also fish or prawn) smooshed into a smooth, gently spiced paste that is not unlike a porridge. It is best when spooned up with flatbread.
Harees
Similar to madrooba, harees is made with cracked wheat rather than rice, which is soaked overnight. It is often spiced with cinnamon and served with ghee or yoghurt. It doubles as a rather satisfying breakfast dish.
Balaleet
A sweet and savoury dish that is made with vermicelli and spiced with saffron, sugar and cardamom. It is topped with an omelette and is eaten for breakfast or as a dessert.
Luqaimat
This small, deep-fried dough dumpling is covered in sugar and is sticky with honey. It is a popular treat at iftars during Ramadan.
Mahalabiya
This simple rice pudding is usually flavoured with cardamom and orange or rose water, then garnished with nuts and served chilled.
William Gray; Visit Qatar
RESTAURANTS TO TRY...
DOHA
Bayt Sharq
Located inside a beautiful heritage house, this is one of Doha’s oldest restaurants. Its eating rooms lie off a central courtyard garden – which also makes a great dining spot during the cooler winter months. Here you can try many of the most authentic Qatari dishes. Waiter Shabir, who has been with the restaurant for four years, suggests first-timers begin with the house specialty, mashwi jadar badawi –succulent lamb with spiced rice, yoghurt and cream. “It’s the most popular dish with Qataris,” he says. instagram.com/baytsharq.qa
Jiwan by Alain Ducasse
Set within the National Museum of Qatar, this stylish restaurant from one of France’s most acclaimed chefs offers a modern take on traditional local cuisine, with both a la carte and ‘experience’ (prix fixe) menus.
The latter is a good place to start, offering a good intro to local flavours. The views from the terrace are just as delectable. Look out too for the pearl theme scattered throughout the dining area, from the intricate ceilinglight installation (comprising more than 4 million Swarovski beads) to the ‘pearls’ adorning glasses and dishes. jiwan.qa
Chapati and Karak
Come on a weekend morning to see the queue forming outside Chapati and Karak. This local institution dishes up the simplest of Qatari breakfasts: chapatis with cheese and zaatar, keema or egg and tomato, plus a takeaway cup of karak. It’s cheap, tasty and satisfying. instagram.com/ chapatiandkarak.qa/?hl=en
L’wzaar Seafood
Market
Given Doha’s setting, it’s no surprise that seafood is particularly popular.
Here you can select your fish from a display and have it cooked to order. Chef Ramesh says: “The Qataris love fresh fish. The most popular here are Sultan Ibrahim (bream) and hammour (grouper). The latter is best when grilled simply with some salt and oil.” lwzaar.com
Parisa Souq Waqif
In the heart of Souq Waqif, Parisa offers simple, traditional Persian cuisine in an extravagantly decorated space. It’s a great spot to fuel up while exploring the souq. parisarestaurants.com
Marouf Bakery
Located just steps away from Parisa lies a small lean-to stall that makes one of Qatar’s best snacks-on-the-go: freshly baked flatbreads covered in zaatar and cheese. They’re hot, fluffy, cheap and oh-so fresh. instagram.com/maroufbakery/?hl=en
Doha delights (this page; clockwise from left)
Jiwan offers a modern take on classic Qatari cuisine; the elegant setting of Bayt Sharq; making flatbreads at Souq Waqif
WHERE TO STAY IN QATAR
From beach resorts and desert retreats to stays where personal butlers attend to your every whim, Qatar offers a wide variety of accommodation options to suit any traveller
The Sheraton Grand Resort & Convention Hotel
Built in 1982, the pyramid-shaped Sheraton was propelled to icon status as soon as it opened on what was then a deserted stretch of the West Bay. Today, it is far from alone in this busy stretch of town, but it remains a cherished retreat, not least because it offers superb value, thanks to its many restaurants, sporting facilities and a great location.
Four Seasons Hotel Doha
Sat at the end of the West Bay, this resort offers a grand base that wows guests with its sky-high lobby windows as soon as they walk in. The customary Four Seasons’ hospitality accompanies excellent facilities, including a private beach, a park-like pool area, a spa and the world’s largest Nobu restaurant – set on its own ‘island’, just past the hotel’s marina.
Raffles Doha
Located within the striking Katara Towers in Lusail (on Doha’s doorstep), this suiteonly, butler-serviced hotel makes quite the impression. It even claims the world’s largest digital kaleidoscope in its lobby. The spa uses ‘suites’ that are larger than most homes for its treatments and has two private pools, a sauna and steam rooms. Its highly thought of Italian and French restaurants are no less indulgent.
Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels
Set right in the heart of Souq Waqif, Tivoli’s Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels span several townhouses within the complex area. It’s an intriguing concept and puts you in the bustling heart of Doha. Each building is individually styled in traditional décor, and they are all within easy walking distance of the majority of Doha’s attractions.
Our Habitas Ras Abrouq
Located within the Al Reem Nature Reserve on the Zekreet Peninsula, an hour’s drive from Doha, each of Our Habitas Ras Abrouq’s 42 luxurious tented villas has desert or sea views. The attitude here is one of relaxation and togetherness (there are no TVs). Its welcoming ritual harks back to the traditional oud ceremonies of the Bedouin, encouraging guests to focus on the here and now.
The Ned Doha
Halfway on the Corniche sits a former government building designed in Brutalist concrete. Inside, however, it has been fully refurbished in a retro-chic design. With 90 rooms, several restaurants and bars, a spa and perhaps the capital’s most beautiful pool area, the Ned is a great escape for those who want something a little bit different.
Alamy; William Gray; Visit Qatar
Fuwairit Kite Beach, Tapestry Collection by Hilton
EXPLORE QATAR’S LOVE OF ART AND ARCHITECTURE
Qatar’s mix of old and new creates a landscape that is part art, part wonder
What makes Qatar unique is how it has embraced public art and modern architecture alongside its more traditional elements. The majority of these art works and projects can be found within a relatively small area of Doha, making strolls in the city (in the cooler hours and months) a delight. But public art crops up everywhere here. Even those arriving at Hamad International Airport can wave hello to Urs Fischer’s Lamp/Bear and pat one of Tom Claassen’s 8 Oryxes on the nose en route to the taxi rank. Driving through Doha, the city’s architectural eclecticism strikes you immediately. You’ll pass the incredible National Museum, the Museum of Islamic Art, the old Souq Waqif and the modern Msheireb Downtown Area (formerly Mushayrib district). It’s this juxtaposition of old and new, tradition and progress, that showcases the Qatari attitude to design best. Take the Msheireb, for example. Only a few years back, this was a ramshackle inner-city residential area made up of low-rise houses and dusty
streets. Today, it is a neighbourhood of sleek, minimalist designs, home to M7, a start-up hub for local fashion and design entrepreneurs. Yet here you’ll also find sensitively restored historic residences that showcase an older way of life. Some of these also now house progressive sights such as the slavery museum in Bin Jelmood House.
Qatari photographer Mashael Al Hejazi focuses on capturing old and new in Qatar. She says: “Photography offers a unique way to document this blend. It captures stories of older generations, preserving their memories and experiences for future ones.”
Tradition going hand-in-hand with modernity is evident across Doha. Take the sleek minarets of the Mangera Yvars-designed Education City Mosque, where calligraphy adorns its modern curves; this lies opposite
the bold Damien Hirst installation The Miraculous Journey, which depicts in detail the development of the human foetus. Then there’s the skyscrapers on Doha’s skylines, many of which are covered with metal versions of the traditional mashrabiya latticework.
Part of Qatar’s appeal is that you find art in unexpected places. In the middle of the isolated Zekreet desert you can see Richard Serra’s East-West/WestEast, and on an uninhabited stretch of coast in northern Qatar you’ll find Olafur Eliasson’s Shadows Travelling on the Sea of the Day. Art is embraced and appreciated for itself, not as decoration. So, those interested will often have to search it out, rather than having it presented on a platter.
The art of design (this page; top to bottom) The Faculty of Islamic Studies in Education City is a wild blend of old and new styles; Damien Hirst’s The Miraculous Journey is a series of 14 bronze sculptures showing the development of a human foetus in the womb; Tom Claassen’s 8 Oryxes can be seen at the airport
PEEK INTO QATAR’S PAST
Qatar’s history is far from lost to the sands. Historic sites scatter the peninsula, offering a rare glimpse into its past, both ancient and modern
In countries where life was nomadic and few settlements were ever built to last, much of what was left behind was abandoned to the shifting sands. But nothing is ever truly lost. In Qatar, you can find plenty of evidence of life long before oil and gas changed things forever; you just need to know where to look…
Al Jassasiya Rock Art
One of the most amazing places in Qatar is the site of the Al Jassasiya petroglyphs. There are some 900
examples of rock carvings dotted around an outwardly insignificantlooking outcrop near the northeastern coast of Qatar, and the jury is still out when it comes to dating them.
Estimates range from anywhere in the Neolithic period to closer to the 8th or 10th century AD, and anytime in between. This is because many of the depictions showcase earlier images of animals, such as ostriches, as well as more modern illustrations of dhows and pearling and fishing excursions. So, it is likely that the records have been added to over the centuries.
Among the most common carvings seen here are collections of several symmetrical small hollows, which archaeologists believe are remnants of a game, perhaps similar to the regionally popular mancala. This was probably played with small rocks or shells, or maybe even pearls.
Walking around the vast area unhindered allows you to let your imagination wander and to discover ever more remarkable petroglyphs,
Fire away! (this page; top left) A cannon lies beneath the walls of Zubarah Fort; (bottom left) the divets carved into the rock at Al Jassasiya may have been used to play an ancient game similar to mancala
whose history and meanings are still often open to interpretation.
Barzan Towers
Just as mysterious and intriguing as the petroglyphs of Al Jassasiya are the Barzan Towers. Built in the late 19th century, these watchtowers were supposedly built to give advance warning of any incoming Ottoman fleet. But, considering that they are located some 10km inland and are only 16m high, the chances that anybody could have made out ships from here is unlikely. Which is why many now believe they were used to protect water supplies and as an observatory to track the moon.
William Gray; Visit Qatar
The towers have a unique T-shaped outline, and the complex is nicely laid out, offering a few insights into Qatar’s not-too-ancient history, as well as views that fall just short of the coast.
Al Zubarah
Qatar’s only inscribed UNESCO World Heritage site is the Zubarah Fort and its archaeological surroundings. Zubarah, some 100km north-west of Doha, was once a thriving fishing port and an important merchant community. Its archaeological site, covering some 60 hectares next to the fort itself, is still being investigated, but many ancient fragments of porcelain and other
artefacts have been found here and are currently on display in the National Museum of Qatar in Doha.
The original settlement is thought to date back to the 9th century AD, but it was mostly destroyed in the early 19th century and then abandoned by its residents. Their houses, mosques and entire life was preserved beneath the shifting sands, which are a challenge to archaeologists even today.
The fort itself is one of the most impressive of the many that dot the country, and it is the main focus of the area. Dating from 1939, it was built as a military outpost and holds a small museum detailing the area’s history.
Al Jumail Fishing Village
Along the coast from Zubarah lies another abandoned fishing village, the small Al Jumail community. Dating from the mid-19th century and abandoned in the 1970s, visitors can climb the minaret of the tiny mosque
and enter the ruins of the fishermen’s houses – which are particularly impressive when photographed against the turquoise backdrop of the sea. Eerie and scenic all at once, the village is said to have been earmarked as a potential future art venue.
Ali bin Ali Al-Khulaifi Mosque
Located within Doha, opposite the National Museum and next to the restaurant Bayt Sharq (see p13), stands the tiny Ali bin Ali Al-Khulaifi Mosque, also known as Al Khalifat Mosque. It appears humble when compared to most modern mosques, and it is said to date back to the 1930s. While it has since received a small facelift, its charm and modest origins have been kept alive. Together with Bayt Sharq – the former home of a pearl-diving boat captain –it offers a rare glimpse of old Doha.
Relics of the past (this page; clockwise from top right) The fishing village of Al Jumail was abandoned in the 1970s; wandering the ruins of Al Jumail makes you feel like you’ve stepped into Qatar’s past; more ruins in Al Jumail; the Barzan Towers may have been used as an observatory to track the moon
EXPLORE QATAR’S ABUNDANT NATURE
From wind-sculpted rock formations to singing dunes and lush, wildlife-rich mangroves, Qatar is a lot wilder than you think
Adesert is a desert, right? Wrong. In Qatar alone, you will find several distinct deserts, from eerie rocky outcrops to flat, shrubby plains, to undulating sand dunes. Some of them even sing! The following are just a few of Qatar’s must-see natural wonders.
The Inland Sea
The Khor al Adaid (Inland Sea) is an inlet from the Arabian Gulf and one of the few places in the world where high sand dunes tumble right down to the sea, making for a spectacular setting. Deep in the south of the Qatari peninsula, the opposite side of the Inland Sea belongs to Saudi Arabia. It’s one of the best spots in the country to go birdwatching and you’re able to witness a sublime array of migrating and breeding birds. Thanks to its outstanding beauty and rarity, the area has been included on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list. If you are visiting in winter, between November and April, head to Flamingo Lake, where (you’ve guessed it!) you’ll find a lake full of migratory greater flamingos. These birds overwinter in the shallow, salty waters en route from Europe and Siberia to Africa, adding a splash of colour to the sands.
Al Thakira Mangroves
Just north of Doha, near the city of Al Khor, lies a magnificent mangrove forest. It is best explored by kayak, though you can also get a taste for it by strolling a handy boardwalk. It is also a haven to some 150 bird species, though many are migratory. Don’t miss out on Bin Ghannam Island, which is famed for its exotic flora. It is more commonly known as Purple Island because it was a hub for making purple dye from crushed marine snails during the Kassite period (1531–1155 BC).
Natural wonders (this page; clockwise from top) Herons and egrets stalk the shallows of the Al Thakira Mangroves; the Musfur Sinkhole is the largest known sinkhole cave in Qatar; stroll the mangrove boardwalk in Al Thakira; the Inland Sea divides Saudi Arabia and Qatar
Musfur Sinkhole
The Musfur Sinkhole (aka Misfir Cave or Dahl al Misfir) is – as you might expect – a big hole in the ground. But it is an interesting hole. Lying just west of central Qatar, this cave can be found after some off-roading from Rawdat Rashed Road. And while it is fenced off during the week, the gate opens at weekends to visitors. Thought to have been formed as far back as 500,000 years ago, the cave can be accessed via a set of steps leading some 40m below the surface. You might think there would be little to see other than rock formations, but there are distinct layers of sediment here, an occasional eerie glow, plus a surprising amount of birds, including bee-eaters, hoopoes and nightjars, who build their nests amid the jagged layers of limestone and gypsum.
Singing Dunes
The Singing Dunes are a relatively rare, if worldwide, phenomenon, whereby soft, fine sand makes an audible hum, or groan, when sliding down a dune. The best examples occur in horseshoe-shaped dunes, which allow the hum to intensify. This natural musical event can easily be set in motion by climbing to the top of a dune and then sliding down on your bottom, causing small avalanches of
William Gray; Visit Qatar
sand. The Qatar Singing Dunes can be found in the south-west, inland from the city of Mesaieed.
Umm Bab Quarry
A quarry as a tourist sight? Why not? Especially as this isn’t your average quarry, but a clay quarry where the workers decided to excavate around the trees and shrubs, leaving some otherworldly structures behind, which rise high above you.
Found 12km south of the village of Umm Bab on Qatar’s east coast, this
one takes a bit of initiative if selfdriving. Or try to persuade your guide to take you off the well-driven path.
Zekreet
This peninsula, on the west coast of Qatar, is most noted for its rock formations, where stems have been sculpted by the constant sea breeze, resulting in bizarre mushroom-like shapes. Within the rocky outcrops you’ll also find the East-West/WestEast art installation by the late Richard Serra, whose four gigantic steel
Wild sights (this page; clockwise from top left)
The singing dunes; Richard Serra’s East-West/WestEast monoliths scatter the Zekreet peninsula; the mushroom-shaped rocks of Zekreet; you find trees in the strangest places at the Umm Bab Quarry
monoliths strangely complement the sandstone surroundings. There is an abundance of wildlife to be seen too, even if most of it is found behind the protective fences of the Al Reem Biosphere Reserve, which stretches across most of the peninsula and is home to the Arabian oryx and other antelopes. Go at sunrise or sunset and you’ll likely spot desert foxes and smaller gazelles. To get into the reserve, book a stay in the luxurious tents of Our Habitas Ras Abrouq (see p14).
together shoppers,
HAVE AN ADVENTURE IN QATAR
Local culture and the natural landscape collide in some of Qatar’s more adventurous pastimes, from visiting the thrilling camel races to floating over the desert in a hot-air balloon
Few realise just how good Qatar is for active escapes. But given much of the country is comprised of desert, or wrapped by wild mangroves, it is of no surprise just how much adventure is to be found here.
Kayak through the mangroves
When kayaking Qatar’s mangroves in the early morning, the only sounds you hear are the gentle dip of the paddle in the water and the calls of birds. Everything else is silent, except for the odd crab clambering over a root. Certainly, in the water around Purple Island, near Al Khor, it is hard to believe you are in fact in a desert country – let alone just one hour from Doha.
Kayak tours usually go out in small groups and are suitable for total newbies as well as experts. It is both relaxing and exhilarating, and oh-so different to noisy dune-bashing. It’s perfect for birdwatchers and even
more fun in winter, when you can spot migrating flamingos in the mangroves.
Fly above the city
Travelling around Doha and Qatar by road is one thing, but seeing the juxtaposition of city and desert from on high is another. A 35-minute scenic flight in a Cessna Caravan, setting off from Doha’s old airport, allows you to see the capital, the mangroves in the north, the architecture of Education City, the man-made Pearl Island, Katara Village and the souq and museums along Doha’s Corniche from a whole new perspective.
Soar in the skies in a hot-air balloon
Few perspectives allow you to really appreciate the rippling contours of the Qatari desert in all their glory than from up above on a hot-air balloon flight. An early morning departure over the Inland Sea will have you
Sky-high views (this page; top to bottom) A flightseeing trip lets you soak in Doha’s glittering skyline from above; Doha hosts a balloon festival every December
rising in tandem with the sun, watching on as the dunes change colour from rust-orange to a caramelbrown and dusty blonde as you glide over them. Or, if you’re planning on visiting Doha in December, time your trip for the annual Qatar Balloon Festival. From dawn, the skies above the capital’s skyscrapers are speckled with over 50 colourful balloons, while food outlets serve onlookers below.
Head to the races
One of the more unusual, and somewhat surreal, experiences in Qatar involves a visit to the Shahaniya Racecourse, some 20 minutes’ drive outside Doha. On certain days here you can see the camel races, where sleek camels (worth up to £2.5 million each) are jockeyed by tiny robots and followed around the track by their owners, who yell instructions and encouragement from their cars.
At the races (this page; clockwise from top) Camel racing is big business in Qatar, even though gambling is illegal here; you don’t need to go far in Qatar to find a mesmerising sky studded with stars; falcony is one of Qatar’s favourite pastimes
Camels, however sleek and expensive, are not naturally elegant runners though; they tend to lollop around the track with all the grace of a drunken sailor, making for a unique spectacle. Yet there is big money involved, and huge prestige. Even the tiny robot jockeys get fitted out with unique, hand-stitched uniforms.
Learn about falconry
Falconry is a long-standing tradition that is engrained in Qatari culture and across many of the Gulf nations. It is more than just a hobby here, where the sums spent on a single bird are often enough to buy a small apartment. There are even falcon hospitals that can implant birds with new feathers, to make up for lost ones. Given locals take the time to train falcons, spoil them rotten, only to let them go free again after a few years, it’s worth learning a bit more about this hobby. Start with a tour of the Falcon Souq and Falcon Hospital to find out just why it is so popular.
Stargaze in the desert
Because there are so few large settlements in Qatar, many of its skies
register very low on the Bortle Scale – where ‘1’ indicates the darkest sky possible. The starry nights here can be mesmerising, particularly when you book yourself into a desert camp, such as Regency Sealine by the Inland Sea; stay in the rocky desert of Zekreet; or simply book a night-sky tour from Doha, which will return you to your hotel bed in the small hours. And if you happen to visit in the heat of July and August, you might just be rewarded with the sight of countless shooting stars, as this is when the Perseid meteor shower is visible.
THE ESSENTIALS
Is it safe?
Qatar boasts an eons-long culture of warm hospitality. Doha is continuously ranked as one of the safest countries in the world by the Numbeo Safety Index by City. Where else can you find an unattended mobile phone on charge in a mall and it won’t be stolen, or a Chanel bag left on a café chair while its owner pops to the bathroom? As with everywhere, common sense precautions should always be taken, but Qatar is very safe indeed.
Do I need a visa?
Yes, but this is easily obtained on arrival in Qatar. But to save time, apply online via the Hayya Portal (hayya.qa). However, you will need to arrange health insurance, as well as give confirmation of where you are staying.
What’s it like to travel during Ramadan?
The holy month of Ramadan is an exciting and fascinating time to travel within an Islamic country. The atmosphere is festive in Qatar; there are lights strung up everywhere and a cannon is fired every day in Doha at sunset to proclaim iftar (the breaking of the day’s fast). That said: while locals are very understanding towards tourists, you should avoid drinking and eating in public between sunrise and sunset, and most restaurants and cafés will be closed during the day. During Ramadan, daily life typically shifts to the evening, with anything from shopping to tennis lessons taking place in the middle of the night. The big international hotels will often have restaurants open during the day,
but normal travel experiences tend to be somewhat reduced during this period.
What are the seasons like in Qatar?
You have summer (Jun–Sep), which is hot and humid, and you have winter, which is lovely and cool (Nov–Mar); the shoulder months lie somewhere in between. There is an official rainy season in winter, but generally speaking, you don’t get more than four days of rain (usually torrential) in any one year. Between October and the end of March, many events are held, life is buzzing and everybody is enjoying the outdoors. In summer, many expats and locals leave Qatar for their own holiday, though many indoor activities and festivals are still organised.
The pearl of the desert (this page; clockwise from top left) You’ll see some beautifully ornate doors around Souq Waqif; Al Majfar is one of Qatar’s atmospheric abandoned villages; the dunes of the Inland Sea are a bewitching sight at sunset; the National Museum of Qatar at the Old Palace is the cultural heartbeat of Doha; see equestrian traditions on display at Souq Waqif’s stables; the Arabian oryx is the national animal of Qatar; Katara Cultural Village, as seen from the skies; the Alfa Fountains by Jean-Michel Othoniel at the National Museum of Qatar; (opposite page; clockwise from top left) Doha’s man-made Pearl Island spans 4 million sqm of reclaimed land; the mysterious Barzan Towers; an armoured horse and rider on display at the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA); pay a visit to the haughty camels at Souq Waqif; the Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani Museum houses the Sheikh’s personal (and eclectic) collection of Islamic art, Qatari heritage artefacts, vehicles, handmade carpets and currency; the magical dunes of the Inland Sea; the historic Mohammed Bin Jassim House
How hot does it really get?
It gets hot. On many official charts, the temperatures don’t reach above 41ºC, but it can get higher. Add humidity to the mix and summer becomes a tricky time to be in Qatar, though wonderfully quiet. In winter, daytime temperatures are in their mid-20ºCs, and sometimes plummet down to below 10ºC.
What should I wear?
It is polite to wear clothes that cover your shoulders and go down to your knees, especially when walking in places that are frequented by locals. To ensure your comfort is at its fullest and to be sensitive towards local traditions, try to wear loose clothing that is reasonably covering while out and about or visiting public buildings.
When does the weekend fall here?
The weekend in Qatar falls on Friday and Saturday, with Friday being the main day for prayer. Many stores and malls close until after midday prayer, not opening until 2pm. Even the metro does not start until 2pm on Fridays.
Can I drink alcohol?
Yes. All the larger hotels, and some restaurants beyond the hotels, serve alcohol. But be aware that alcohol is quite expensive, with a glass of beer costing around QAR22 (£5) and a glass of wine starting from around QAR55 (£10+). But there are plenty of happy hours and special promotions being held in the numerous bars and clubs across Doha, so look out for those.
