Wanderlust, Issue 232 (April/May 2024)

THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL LIBRARIES

Sounds of the USA European Capitals of Culture New Caledonia

Ballooning in Tanzania

India’s Golden Triangle Saskatchewan Albania

In the name of print and travel

In a digital-first era, at the dawn of AI, we often ask ourselves about the future of printed books and, in our case, magazines. We’re naturally biased: we love the feeling of physically turning pages, the smell and texture of (sustainably sourced) paper, the look of inspiring photography in print.

In this edition, we want to celebrate our love of print by highlighting some of the most beautiful libraries (p148) you can visit around the world, many of them celebrated as much for their precious collections as for their magnificent ‘looks’. One of the finest examples is our cover star, Austria’s Admont Abbey, which is home to the largest monastic library in the world. It boasts not only fairytale-like Baroque architecture, but also an outstanding collection of manuscripts. What’s more, its location in the state of Styria is one of the many surprises that we delve into in this issue’s Austriatripplanner (p164), taking you across a small-yet-jam-packed country with many unsung corners.

We have also been thrilled with the response to our recent reader survey; thank you for your feedback and ideas! Starting from this edition, we will be introducing a host of updates to our editorial coverage in print and online, from highlighting a greater variety of mid-range accommodation options to showcasing more of the UK and bringing in additional newsworthy content.

What you all seem to love about Wanderlust is our firm commitment to taking you down the road less travelled and uncovering hidden gems. This issue is no different, as we head from up-and-coming Albania (p96) to Melanesian New Caledonia (p72), to Indigenous Saskatchewan (p84) and on to 2024’s trio of European Capitals of Culture – Bodø in Norway, Tartu in Estonia and Bad Ischl in Austria (p114).

Last but not least, we’ve been working on our annual edition of The Travel Green List™, and we can’t wait to hear your suggestions for the world’s most promising sustainable travel champions (p37) in time for our next issue. Enjoy the read,

George

Editor in Chief @georgiostravels

Take to the skies! (clockwise from top left)

This issue, we’re pushing back the boundaries of travel. Join us for the first-ever trans-Serengeti balloon flight in Tanzania (p60), go in search of the world’s most beautiful libraries (p148) and pay a visit to the spa town of Bad Ischl on a whirlwind tour of all three 2024 European Capitals of Culture (p114) Instagram See

Responsible,conscious andsustainabletravel isattheheartof everything wedo

Thought-provoking content for all kinds of travellers, ranging from culture, history, art and heritage through to our unrivalled nature, wildlife and adventure-travel coverage

Extensive coverage of immersive, authentic and longer travel experiences for the passionate travellers who care deeply about our planet and its people

Wanderlust: Off the Page Catchupwith our very ownpodcast

A strong focus on responsible, sustainable travel throughout our publications in print and online, culminating in our unique and annual The Travel Green ListTM issue in spring

Contributors

DR G PRESTON WILSON, JR

Music USA, p128

“Music is the vehicle of expression that America has used to tell her many stories: tales of hope, of heartache, of pain and pleasure, of triumph and of victory. There is something for anyone and everyone who visits. Come with an open heart and open ears!”

EMMA THOMSON

Capitals of Culture, p114

“This year’s Capitals of Culture (Bodø, Bad Ischl and Tartu) are three cities separated by hundreds of kilometres, yet have so many common threads. In a time when our news feeds show nothing but separation and conflict, it is a reminder that culture forges unity, community and a legacy.”

Diversity In Travel Writing Matters

©

KATE HUMBLE

Tanzania, p60

“It was revelatory seeing the Serengeti from a hot air balloon. I realised that, until that moment, I had only seen it as a series of snapshots; never as a full picture. For the first time, I was able to appreciate how the many and varied creatures that live there interact with each other and the land.”

QIN XIE

South Australia, p50

“South Australia often flies under the radar for first-time visitors, but the diversity it offers in landscapes and experiences is what has kept me coming back. This is reflected in its stays, which range from forested wildlife havens and lush vineyard escapes to an underground hotel in the remote Outback.”

NORBY LOPEZ

Ecuador, p212

“In Ecuador exists one of the most biodiverse nature destinations on the planet. There are over 250 volcanoes on the mainland alone, creating many unique habitats for wildlife encounters. From Andean glaciers to Amazon headwaters, it’s an invitation to discover a wild land!”

RUDOLF ABRAHAM

Austria, p164

“For me, the Austrian Alps were love at first sight, but they’re only one side of the country. One of my biggest surprises was Neusiedler See in Burgenland. This vast steppe lake, surrounded by sprawling reed beds, is both a top birdwatching site and one of Austria’s best wine regions.”

Since 2020, Wanderlust has committed to working on commissioning at least 20% of its content from travel writers from underrepresented backgrounds and historically underrepresented groups. These include members of Indigenous communities, people of colour, LGBTQIA+ activists, people with health conditions or impairments, and people from disadvantaged socio-economic backgrounds. We want everyone to share their passion for travel with our readers!

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EDITORIAL CONTENT

Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros @georgiostravels

Founding Editor Lyn Hughes @wanderlust.lyn

Associate Editor Gareth Clark

North America Editor Jacqui Agate @jacquiagate

Special Features Editor Rhodri Andrews

Special Features Editor Rosie Fitzgerald (maternity leave)

Special Features Assistant Editor Laura Field

Sustainability Contributing Editor Karen Edwards @KarenNEdwards_Writer

Sustainability Editor at Large Ketti Wilhelm

Contributing Editors Lynn Brown, William Gray, Juliet Rix, Sherry L Rupert & Mark Stratton

DESIGN

Art Director Graham Berridge

Assisted by Scott Jessop (maps)

PRODUCTION

Production Manager Peter Helfrich

DIGITAL

Digital Creative Director Anil Karwal

Digital Editor Jessica Reid

Digital & Social Media Executive Nefeli Syriopoulou

COMMERCIAL PARTNERSHIPS

Chief Commercial Officer Adam Lloyds (adam.lloyds@wanderlust.co.uk)

VP Brand Partnerships David Read (david.read@wanderlust.co.uk)

Senior Creative Partnerships Manager Simon Bryson @_bryos

BUSINESS

Chief Executive George Kipouros

Chief Operating Officer Elliot Wellsteed-Crook

Marketing & Social Media Manager

Christina Wildman Mullett (maternity leave)

Wanderlust Club Manager

Maria Manta

In memory of Co-founder & Publisher Paul Morrison

CHECK IN

12 Viewfinder

Celebrating geoparks, getting excited about Batumi and loving Colombia’s Heritage Towns

18 Just Back From…

Why the Caucasus is about far more than fire, wine and stone; plus your letter of the month

20 Your Photos

You send us your top travel shots

JOURNAL

25 Grapevine

All the latest news, views and stays making our travel radar

33 Set-Jetting

Netflix series One Day is putting the romance back into the European city break

35 Armchair Travel

Inspirational reads, plus the latest Wanderlust podcasts

40 Sustainable Travel

How community-based travel is helping to ensure that your money goes to the right people

42 Health

Travel isn’t always the cure for stress; sometimes it’s the cause. We look at how to maintain your mental health on the road

44 Departures

Whether you’re in search of leopards in Mongolia or whales in Newfoundland, we pick some of the best new wildlife trips

49 Dream Sleep: Thailand

Visit a Phuket resort that helped turn a polluted lagoon into a sustainable escape

50 WanderSleeps

Wine, wilderness and wildlife. Check out the stays with frontrow seats to South Australia’s incredible landscapes

TRAVELOGUES

60 Tanzania

Join wildlife presenter Kate Humble as she goes in search of a new angle on Tanzania’s grasslands on the first-ever trans-Serengeti balloon trip

72 New Caledonia

Exploring the customs and traditions of New Caledonia’s Indigenous Kanak communities ensures visitors see more than just a tropical Melanesian island

84 Saskatchewan

The return of bison to the plains of Wanuskewin and a new wave of Indigenous tourism is shining a light on a history that has been ignored for too long

96 Albania

As Albania wrestles with the impact of 10 million visitors a year on its busy coast, one answer may lie in its historic towns and rural homestays

106 Georgia, USA

The history of Georgia’s Black and Indigenous peoples takes centre stage as tourism among the barrier islands and a potential new national park emerge

114 Capitals of Culture

Three cities in three weeks!

We head to 2024’s European Capitals of Culture (Tartu, Bad Ischl, Bodø) to see what titles like this actually do for communities, cities and the visitors they attract

128 Music USA

America’s story is written in song – gospel, blues, rock, country,

soul – so we asked those who know it by heart to pick the destinations that still reverberate to the sounds of the States

148 Beautiful Libraries

These spectacular libraries tell stories every bit as captivating as the books on their shelves

164 Austria: Trip Planner

From the coffee shops and museums of Vienna to the vineyards of South Styria, we pick the perfect routes to make the most of Austria’s Alpine majesty, cultured cities and sensational food and wine

SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

And get exclusive access to competitionsoffers,and events. See p209 for details

DISCOVER

198 Urban Spotlight

The Golden Triangle offers a peek at India through the ages

210 Museum Cities

Discover a Texan oil city with a cultural scene to rival any capital

212 Wildlife Encounters

Ecuador’s overlooked mainland has Andean peaks, Amazon jungle and 673 species of bird

214 Indigenous Culture

Why the lost Indigenous traditions and cultures of El Salvador are finally returning

216 World Heritage

Not even earthquakes can diminish the beauty of Nepal’s impressive Kathmandu Valley

218 British Break

Meet the small town that has changed hands between Scotland and England 13 times

225 Wanderlust Quiz

Think you know your spring festivals? Answers at the ready

226 Top Guide

Ali Al Aligi talks about what it was like when Saudi opened up

Map illustration:

Scott Jessop

Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark, China

Photographer: Alvin NG

It’s often when we think we know a place that we’re surprised by it the most. Certainly, lush mangroves and basalt columns 140 million years in the making aren’t what immediately spring to mind when anyone mentions Hong Kong. And nothing typifies the incredible wilderness that fringes the city better than the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark. Among its 150 sq km of islands, beaches and peninsulas fuzzy with green scrub are rock formations dating back 400 million years. It is also just one of nearly 200 similar parks created since 2015, many of which feature in Gestalten’s new book, The UNESCO Global Geoparks. Together, they tell a story far older than any city, and worth hearing if you’re ever in Hong Kong. © Hong Kong UGGp/Alvin NG, Geoparks, Gestalten 2024. The UNESCO Global Geoparks (Gestalten; £45) is out now. uk.gestalten.com

Europe Square, Batumi, Georgia

One of the great joys of city travel lies in wandering the streets and looking at how they evolved. Among the rising stars in Europe at the moment is Batumi, Georgia’s sub-tropical second city. Back at the dawn of the 20th century, after this Black Sea port had passed from Turkish to Russian hands, this was where the oil from Baku was refined. In its historic centre you can still see where the old wrought-iron Turkish balconies mingle with the nouveau riche Neoclassical houses its newfound oil wealth paid for. Today, a new era is bringing fresh investment and a slew of architectural projects that are transforming this seaside city once more. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Europe Square, where the likes of the 36-storey Black Sea Technological University Batumi Tower (centre) rises above the late-19th- and 20th-century buildings that wrap the plaza. For travellers, it all offers an incredible snapshot of Georgia’s past and present. © Shutterstock

Barichara, Colombia

Among the many relics left behind by the Spanish in Colombia are a wealth of bewitching colonial towns. These are only now just being discovered by UK travellers, thanks to better air links and a vastly improved local road network. One of the most irresistible is Barichara, in Santander, an arresting mix of sloping cobbles and red-tiled roofs. At its centre lies the 18th-century Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción (pictured), which looms over the rows of tiny whitewashed villas like a watchful sibling. With such drama, it’s little wonder this town was the setting for a series of telenovelas, which turned its streets into something akin to a live film set (it even inspired the animators of Disney’s Encanto). It is also just one among a number of Heritage Towns worth seeking out, with others such as Villa de Leyva (three hours’ drive from Bogotá) and the colourful Guatapé (near Medellín) serving up a different world to Colombia’s bustling, modern cities. © Colombia Landmarks and People by Vision/Alamy

The Caucasus

Wanderlust’s Elliot Wellsteed-Crook discovers that the lands of fire, wine and stone are not so easily summed up, as he travels across Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia

AZERBAIJAN

“It’s positive energy!” declared my guide, Elhan, as he stood next to the eternally burning flame of the Ateshgah Fire Temple, a historic Zoroastrian pilgrim site. “The fire takes in the bad and gives out the good. But don’t get too close,” he cautioned with a smile.

In reality, the naturally burning ‘eternal’ flame actually went out in 1969; today, it runs on the country’s vast petroleum reserves. And like much of Azerbaijan, it is a quirky metaphor for how old meets new.

Take capital Baku, for instance, where two flame-shaped towers command the skyline. As well as being symbols of the country’s Zoroastrian heritage, they also inadvertently tell the story of a nation minted on the oil wealth it no longer sends to the Soviet Union.

The sense of being simultaneously futuristic and ancient is embodied by Baku’s

annual Grand Prix. Formula One cars zoom between Dubai-esque skyscrapers and the capital’s 12th-century, UNESCO-listed Old City, where you’ll still stumble on carpetmakers, miniature books and plenty of wine.

The first democratic Muslim country has many sides to it.You’ll find otherworldli-

ness in exclave Nakhchivan and spectacular landscapes in the ‘green south’. And to the west, the semi-desert Badlands give way to the lush capillaries of the Silk Road, where the old trading centre of Sheki nestles into the foothills of the Caucasus mountains.

GEORGIA

Ask anyone in Georgia and they’ll tell you that the first evidence of winemaking was found here (as far back as 6,000 BC). But Georgians do it differently.Wine is made in giant clay pots called qvevris, and the grape skins and seeds are thrown into the fermentation process.This produces an earthy and hearty wine true to the character of its people. What is left from the winemaking is distilled into an intoxicating ‘grape vodka’, known as chacha. My guide,Yuri, reliably informed me that Georgians believe guests

are sent by God. I was certainly made to feel that way, especially at mealtimes.

Beyond the cuisine, Georgia is inherently explorable. From the Tuscany-esque countryside of the east to the Caucasus mountains of the north, enthralling heritage sites are dotted throughout.This is also a land that holds a complex relationship with its former Soviet master, and 20% of its territory has been officially occupied by Russia since 2008. In Gori, the birthplace of Stalin, one museum I visited romanticised the dictator and his bank-robbing, prison-breaking ‘escapades’.

Such attitudes are not common in modern capitalTbilisi, which is alive with art, fashion and the sound of avant-garde techno. Here you’ll meet an outward-looking generation eyeing membership of the European Union.

ARMENIA

Both the Armenian and Georgian alphabet are notoriously complex.They are also revered by their people because, in many ways, their languages provide a buffer against being absorbed by other cultures.

My guide, Natalia, described Armenia as the ‘Land of Stone’. On the surface, this is down to its geological wonders, but it is

also because of the resilience of the people. They have endured centuries of strife, and the bitter struggles over territory between Armenia and Azerbaijan continue to this day.

The confounding complexity of this country is its charm. Armenia claims to have been the first nation to officially adopt Christianity (in 301 AD), and it is awash with monasteries atop dramatic gorges. Capital Yerevan is one of world’s oldest urban areas, and has been repeatedly razed and flattened by invading forces and earthquakes down the centuries. Today, sports cars linger beneath Brutalist tenements, and locals adopt everything from hipster garb to traditional dress.

When in the capital, be sure to drop by the must-see Matenadaran museum, which houses thousands of exquisitely decorated manuscripts.This is all a far cry from the brown bears and misty forests of the northern Lori region, which is a must for nature lovers.

While many have cottoned on to what Armenia’s neighbours have to offer, it remains full of surprises and deserving of more visitors. The author travelled with Cox & Kings (coxandkings.co.uk) on a 14-day Across the Southern Caucasus small-group tour. Prices start from £2,895 per person.

LETTER OF THE MONTH

I had pondered whether it was right for me to visit Shetland (issue 230; Dec/Jan) in January. I assumed it would be cold, windy and bleak. How wrong could I have been, especially on the last Tuesday of the month, when the Up Helly Aa festival takes place in Lerwick?

The festival celebrates the end of the dark nights, as more than 800 residents parade around town, with most of those dressed in Viking attire formed into ‘squads’. There were multiple events, including the reading of a light-hearted ‘bill’ making jibes at locals, and a medley of songs from 50-plus ‘Vikings’. There was even a junior parade in which children burnt a mini boat. This all culminated with the impressive flaming torch procession and revellers setting fire to a Viking longship, which burnt to a cinder.

Wednesday was a quiet day on Lerwick. The island has plenty to offer, with numerous archaeological sites and lots of wildlife (otter, seal, orca). But despite the wind-ravaging the coast, its inland lochs (pictured) – of which there are plenty – offer a tranquillity that allows you to sit and reflect on the spectacular Up Helly Aa.

David Ward

Drop us a line with your stories and travel tips at fromtheroad@ wanderlust.co.uk and help others find their way. Also follow us on Facebook (wanderlusttravelmagazine), Threads (@wanderlustmag), X (@wanderlustmag) and Instagram (@wanderlustmag).

A place to reflect (this page; clockwise from top left) Georgia’s Kakheti wine region sits in the shadow of the Caucasus mountains and celebrates a winemaking tradition that goes back 8,000 years; Azerbaijan’s Ateshgah Fire Temple might be a historic pilgrim site for Zoroastrians, but it was originally built by Hindu worshippers in the 18th century; Yerevan sits in the shadow of Mount Ararat; Tbilisi is a modern capital with an air of cool about it; (left page) the Odzun Church (top) and Khor Virap monastery (bottom) are part of a wealth of ancient Christian buildings scattering the countryside of Armenia

#wanderlustmag

You’ve been sending us images of your latest trips and favourite adventures – tag us at #wanderlustmag on Instagram or email them to us at fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk

“I had seen Kerlingarfjöll

Instagram before, but the

are a sight to behold in person.” @ jpr.photos

Daniel Musikant

on

Icelandic Highlands

“With its intricate stone carvings, the Queen’s Stepwell in Bundi is a fine example of Indian architecture.” @handheldtones

“A helicopter ride over the Bungle Bungles range in Western Australia reveals its amazing geology.” Mike Segal

“I can see why the Lower Antelope Canyon in Arizona is a spiritual place for the Navajo Nation.” @alexander.coney

“The blues of Samarkand’s Shah-i-Zinda – a burial place for royals and nobles – make it a photographer’s dream!”

“As the sun rises over Mallorca’s Cap de Formentor and its lonely clifftop lighthouse, this incredible landscape can feel like it’s leading you to the very edge of the world.” @ toothsinternationaltravelshots

“We were told Sicily’s Tonnara di Scopello wasn’t worth the diversion in winter – this magical sunset disagreed.” Diana Connor

journal

The latest travel news and stays, plus making sure your money goes to the right people, mental health and travel, new wildlife escapes, and more

Bouncing back When Kangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge burnt down in 2020’s wildfires, we worried that it was gone for good. Now its latest incarnation joins a wealth of new scenic stays in putting South Australia’s incredible landscapes on widescreen; see p50

Southern Ocean Lodge/George Apostolidis

What’s New

All the latest stays, museum openings and festivals that already have us packing our suitcases

Visa-free Malawi

The ‘Warm Heart of Africa’ is often overshadowed by its larger neighbour to the north, Tanzania. Even Zambia, with which Malawi shares its namesake lake, is a better-known safari destination. Yet Malawi boasts not one but two ‘Big Five’ sanctuaries – Majete Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park – home to lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo. Both offer excellent value and superb guides. Now, discovering Malawi’s wildlife, hiking the Mulanje Massif and snorkelling one of the world’s largest freshwater lakes are much easier. Since 9 February, travellers from 79 countries – including the UK and Ireland – can visit visa-free for up to 30 days. A warm welcome, indeed. malawihighcommission.co.uk

Bins with brains

In the humid shadows of the rainforest, a flash of colour darts across the corner of your eye, before perching on a branch. It’s a bird – but which one? Your binoculars shake as you fumble with your phone to find the ID app. Too late: whatever it was, it’s gone. Technology to the rescue! Swarovski’s AX Visio, the world’s first smart binoculars, use AI tech for real-time identification of more than 9,000 avian and other species, while the integrated camera captures photos and videos to share with your smartphone and others via a dedicated app. Naturally, the lenses are exceptional and, with an optimal 10x32 magnification-aperture combination, images are as bright and crisp as you’d expect from Swarovski. Available now from £3,820. swarovskioptik.com

Exhibitions & openings

Having aptly opened its doors during Sydney’s Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras celebrations, Qtopia is the city’s first ‘queer history’ museum, and claims to now be the largest LGBTQIA+ centre in the world. qtopiasydney.com.au

Work may be ongoing to restore Paris’ Notre-Dame after the tragic fire of 2019, but visitors to the city’s Galerie des Gobelins/Mobilier National can still experience the cathedral through the Restoring the Grand Decor of NotreDame exhibition (from 25 Apr), which will showcase masterpieces saved from the fire. mobiliernational.culture.gouv.fr

Explore artworks by contemporary and modern artists such as Andy Warhol and Yayoi Kusama in the new MocoMuseum in London’s Marble Arch this summer. It is set to become the Moco collection’s flagship location. mocomuseum.com

Germany’s Colditz Castle has led many lives: hunting lodge, POW camp, asylum. Much of it has lain empty for years; now it’s opening its lesser-seen rooms up to visitors from 17 April, using AR devices to bring them to life. schloss-colditz.de

The Museum Hof van Busleyden (pictured) in Mechelen, Belgium, has reopened after two years of renovations. The 16th-century city palace museum also has a new exhibition on The Knights of the Golden Fleece (until 2 Jun) that delves into its collection of Burgundian coats of arms. hofvanbusleyden.be

The impressive new Kunstsilo art museum, set inside a restored grain silo, opens in Kristiansand, Norway, on 11 May. The star here is the world’s largest private collection of Nordic art, numbering some 5,500 works. kunstsilo.no

Galápagos fee doubles

It’s not often that a price increase is greeted with almost universal enthusiasm, but in the case of the Galápagos entry fee, the overwhelming response is: about time. In just the first two decades of this century, visitors to the island have more than tripled. This has created ecological challenges for these ‘Enchanted Isles’ and their menagerie of extraordinary, often endemic wildlife. The cost of entry for most international visitors to Galápagos National Park, which lies 900km west of mainland Ecuador’s west coast, was set at US$100 (£78) for international visitors over 25 years ago. So the news that the fee will double to US$200 (£156) – still just a fraction of the cost of a typical wildlife cruise – from 1 August 2024 was largely applauded, given the Ecuadorean government’s pledge that the money will help fund conservation initiatives, infrastructural upgrades and community programmes aimed at mitigating tourism’s ecological footprint.

Journeys of the mind

Wanderlust readers know great travel writing when they read it. The best books and articles offer more than just armchair excitement, acting as a launchpad for epic expeditions of the imagination – and, more often than not, inspiring a trip to take you there in person. The second annual Sherborne Travel Writing Festival (5–7 April) returns to its titular Dorset town in order to celebrate the genre once more, bringing together the creators of some of the finest travel literature around.

Curated by long-time Wanderlust contributor (and bestselling author) Rory McLean, the line-up features such stellar names as adventurer Nick Danziger, photographer Don McCullin, explorer Benedict Allen, journalist and author Noo Saro-Wiwa, wildlife whisperer Brian Jackman and Hilary Bradt, doyenne of guidebooks and another Wanderlust favourite. Weekend tickets from £100; individual events from £12. sherbornetravelwritingfestival.com

It’sWilliam Shakespeare’sbirthday!

April marksthebirthofTheBard, ashislifeiscelebratedtheworld over–notleastinhishometown of Stratford-upon-Avon

460th

Nooneknowstheexactdateof Shakespeare’sbirth,though23 Aprilistraditionallyused(records doshowthathewasbaptisedon 26April1564).Thisyearwould have beenhis460thbirthday.

20April

Stratford-upon-Avonknowshow tocelebrateitsown.On20April, thetown’sresidentswillemergefor processions,servicesandevena ‘birthdaylunch’withperformances bytheRoyalShakespeare Company (RSC) .

1613

Shakespearewroteatleast37 playsthatweknowabout.Heonly stoppedwritingafteraroguespecial effectburnt downTheGlobetheatre in1613.Hediedthreeyearslater.

35,000ft

Forthe450thanniversaryof Shakespeare’sbirth,Romeoand Julietwasperformedforpassengers onaneasyJetflighttoVerona.

35years

IfyoucanwaituntilJune,thisyearis the35thanniversaryofBardonthe Beach,analwayslivelyShakespeare festivalinVancouver(Jun11–21Sep).

2025

TheMuseumofShakespeareopens nextyearinLondon’sShoreditch area,offeringthechancetoexplore thearchaeologicalremainsofThe CurtainPlayhouse–anElizabethan theatreoftenlinkedtoTheBard.⊲

New sleeps

Located in Panama’s UNESCOdesignated Casco Viejo quarter, the Amarla Casco Viejo (pictured) is a boutique adult-only stay with just eight rooms. What’s more, its interior has been designed and made by local craftspeople, right down to the hand-painted coffee cups. amarla.pa

Kea Island in Greece’s Cyclades is home to the One&Only Kea Island, a group of chic beachfront villas nestled on a secluded coastline. Just a short ferry from Athens, these one- and two-bed properties come with private pools and al-fresco dining areas overlooking the twinkling Aegean. oneandonlyresorts.com/kea-island

The UNESCO-listed Al Balad neighbourhood in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, has breathed new life into three of its heritage properties, which have now been regenerated as hotels. The House of Jokhdar, Kedwan and Al Rayess have all been carefully restored using the talents of historians and locals to ensure their luxury interiors continue to reflect the historical layout and design.

As the latest addition to Spain’s state-run heritage hotel collection, Parador de Molina de Aragón expects to welcome guests to its newly built 22-room property by the end of 2024. Located in the lesservisited central Castile La Mancha region, it has incredible views of the nearby Molina de los Caballeros walled fortress. paradores.es/en

This state-of-the-art safari camp Atzaro Okavango lies in a private concession surrounded by the delta vegetation of Botwana’s famous wildlife area. Powered entirely by solar energy, guests will sleep in luxury tented accommodation with air-conditioning and private plunge pools. africanbushcamps.com

Modern visions

It has been 75 years since the death of the Ostend-born artist James Ensor, and Belgium is marking the occasion with a year of exhibitions. You’ll find museums across the country embracing this pioneer of modern art, but Antwerp and Ostend in particular will be taking the lead. The latter has already begun with its Rose, Rose, Rose à Mes Yeux exhibition at the Mu.Zee (until 14 Apr), while the Ensor House’s Self Portraits (until 16 Jun) shines a light on his earlier work. In Antwerp, events only truly kick off on 28 September, when the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp (KMSKA), home to the largest Ensor collection in the world, shows his work alongside the artists that inspired him. ensor2024.be

New flight routes

London Gatwick is going to be busy this year. It welcomes two new services to China in June, with Air China launching daily flights to Beijing, and China Southern starting a new thrice-weekly Guangzhou route. There are also flights to Gothenburg (Sweden) with Norwegian that are due to run four times a week from May, plus a new low-cost easyJet route to Salerno that is set to open up the glories of Italy’s Amalfi Coast from 13 July.

Elsewhere, there are plenty of useful new connections in store, with Ethiopian Airlines now running a service between Addis Ababa and Maun (Botswana) three times a week. Meanwhile, Thai Airways has started a twice-weekly return flight between Bangkok and Perth (Australia).

Speaking of Bangkok, British Airways flights to the Thai capital from Heathrow and to Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) from Gatwick are set to return in October. Alamy;

EXPERIENCE ARMENIA THROUGH THE SEASONS

Whether soaking up the fiery autumn colours or heading out on wildflower hikes in spring, every season in Armenia offers a different perspective…

Nestled in the Caucasus region between Europe and Asia, Armenia offers a tapestry of landscapes and experiences that transform with each passing season. From the blooming valleys in spring to the snow-capped mountains of winter, Armenia’s natural beauty is ever-changing, inviting visitors on a captivating journey throughout the year. See for yourself...

SPRING: AWAKENING OF NATURE

Armenia awakens to the gentle embrace of spring, as the landscapes burst into life. The air is filled with the sweet fragrance of apricot orchards in bloom, a symbol of Armenia’s heritage. The country’s verdant

mountainsides are dotted violet and alabaster, crimson and gold, and one of the best ways to explore them is on foot. The Transcaucasian Trail (TCT), a thru-hike that links the nations of the South Caucasus and spans 800km of Armenian territory, is often at the top of hikers’ wishlists with its undulating paths weaving through dramatic valleys and canyons, forest-laden hills and ancient sites of cultural heritage hidden amid the peaks. Pick a section that showcases the elaborate interiors of Armenia’s ancient churches, the majestic Tatev Monastery, or venture off the route to visit other places such as UNESCO-listed Haghpat Monastery Complex. It’s not the only memorable spring walk Armenia has, with wildflowers also blanketing the fringes of the lush Debed Canyon, where you can follow its namesake river’s

Golden glow (this page; top to bottom) Tatev Monastery is bathed in the warm sunlight of spring; see Armenia from a different perspective in a hot air balloon

path. Armenian hospitality is often on full display along its walking trails, with rural hosts dishing up feasts with ingredients foraged locally.

If you’re looking for a unique gastro experience, embark on a wild food adventure and dine in a variety of outdoor settings, from a pristine woodland to a craggy cliffside or a table set in between vineyards.

SUMMER: A TAPESTRY OF COLOURS

Long days settle into periwinkle sunsets during the Armenian summer, as the heat fades over café-hoppers sipping wine al fresco on Saryan Street in the country’s capital, Yerevan. During the day, take shade in its museums and galleries, like the Matenadaran with its ancient manuscripts or the Sergey Parajanov Museum, dedicated to the namesake filmmaker.

Outside of the city, sunseekers flock to the lakes and rivers that snake through the Armenian countryside to cool off. Relax on the banks of Lake Sevan, where watersports like kayaking, paddleboarding and even high-altitude diving are popular.

Alternatively, venture into the mountains on a jeep tour from Yerevan, or soar high above Armenia’s sweeping countryside on a hot air balloon ride. North of Sevan, the Tavush region is grooved by the Ijevan Mountains. Here, the Shaghot waterfall and panoramic peak-top views offer an ideal, reinvigorating destination.

Another refreshing alternative is Vardavar festival in July. Once of Pagan origin, this festival sees merrymakers across Armenia take to the streets with buckets of water, turning it into a country-wide water fight.

AUTUMN: A PALETTE OF GOLD

As gold and ochre seep across Armenia and temperatures fall, harvest season hits its peak. Taste pomegranates bursting with sweet juice, or walnuts, honey, dried fruit and rice heaped into the centre of a pumpkin (a seasonal dish known as ghapama). For a hands-on foray into Armenian culinary culture, visit a gastro yard. There, experts introduce guests to autumnal dishes via masterclasses and skilfully crafted plates paired with Armenian wines.

Viticulture is intrinsically tied to the country’s harvesting heritage, and travellers can sample its signature blends on the designated wine route of Vayots Dzor. The world’s first known winery was discovered in this region, occluded within a complex cave system dating back over 6,100 years.

Travel in October to catch the Areni Wine Festival, held in the Areni village. Round out your autumnal adventure by renting a bike and heading into Dilijan National Park for the best views of the wildly shifting seasonal colours.

WINTER: WHERE ADVENTURE MEETS SERENITY

Through snow-laden pines you can spy the mirror-like waters of Lake Sevan, backed by distant peaks. But natural beauty is not the only thing swept in by Armenia’s winter winds. There’s adventure to be found, too, from skiing and snowboarding on the slopes of Tsaghkadzor and Yeghipatrush, to snowshoeing in the Lori region or cross-country skiing in Ashotsk. Recover some of that exerted energy by indulging in the classic winter dish of khash. Preparing this rich broth – served with UNESCOlisted lavash bread, tangy pickles and fragrant herbs – is a ritual, as cooks gather late to brew it through the night. Winter brings chances to experience nature differently. To warm up, bathe in the steaming springs of Jermuk, a spa town whose nourishing waters are said to have healing properties. As the seasons unfold in Armenia, each one offers its own unique, captivating beauty throughout the year.

Winter warmers (this page; top right) Go skiing on Mount Teghenis in winter; (above) ghapama is a classic autumn dish in Armenia Alamy; Armenia.Travel

Travel from the heart

New Netflix series One Day is putting the romance back into European travel in time for St Swithin’s Day, writes Tom Hawker

The will-they-won’t-they friendship of Emma Morley (Ambika Mod) and Dexter Mayhew (LeoWoodall) has enraptured viewers of Netflix’s adaptation of the David Nicholls novel One Day – which revisits the pair each year on St Swithin’s Day (15 July).And while we certainly don’t condone visiting Europe’s busiest spots at peak summer, it’s still worth following in their footsteps when the crowds disappear.

That might be tough in Paris, though Emma’s Parisian apartment in episode 12 at least lies in one of the capital’s airier spots – in the 13th arrondissement on the left bank of the Seine.The historic tapestry-makers’ quarter includes the flowery oasis of the Cité Florale neighbourhood, tours of the famous Gobelins Manufactory and enough picturesque streets to indulge any wannabe flâneur.

Rome’s buzzy Trastevere quarter is where we find Dex and his family in episode two. Its cobbled side streets offer plenty of potential,including a visit to the 5th-century Basilica di Santa Cecilia. Or you can do as Dex does and swing by the Piazza di Spagna’s Spanish Steps or the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola,a 17th-century monumental fountain on Janiculum Hill.

The pair’s European adventures continue in episode four on the Greek island of Paros, no doubt drawn to its mix of traditional Cycladic villages, lively tavernas and

120km of coastline. Capital Parikia is a busy hub, so copy Dex and Em by heading north to the (slightly quieter) fishing village of Naousa, home to the remains of aVenetian fort.

The country piles of Hertfordshire can also expect an uptick in visitors.The early-18thcentury Benington Lordship, near Stevenage, doubles as Dex’s girlfriend’s family home in episode nine – and you can visit its gardens on selected dates. Period-drama-fave Hatfield House also makes an appearance in the form of its 15th-century Old Palace,the childhood home of Elizabeth I.The building and gardens provide the wedding reception location in episode ten.

We’ll end in Edinburgh, key to both the show’s beginning and its finale.The square of the university’s 18th-century Old College provides the setting for the couple’s meet-cute at a graduation ball in episode one.

The hour-long hike up Arthur’s Seat becomes a touchstone moment in Dex’s life.And finally,TheVennel stairs, stashed away around Grassmarket, is where you can recreate the couple’s hopeful kiss. But perhaps not on St Swithin’s Day.

One Day is out now on  Netflix (netflix.com)

A grand tour (clockwise from top) The harbour and beaches of Naousa in Paros are the setting for romance in episode four of One Day; the story of Emma and Dex takes in Paris, Rome, Paros, Hertfordshire and Edinburgh on their will-they-won’t-they journey through picturesque Europe

Read this!

This issue, it’s all about finding inspiration, as the experts at Stanfords pick the latest travel reads to fuel your adventures

SaveMefromthe Waves

by Jessica Hepburn

Quarto; £18 Stanfords Book of the Month for March 2024

Claiming to be the first woman to have completed the ‘Sea, Street, Summit Challenge’ – swim the English Channel, run the London Marathon and climb Mount Everest – Jessica’s tale of how it happened falls into classic ‘unlikely hero’ territory. With humour and wit, she charts her journey from reluctant athlete to mentality monster, and in doing so gives life and character to the settings for her achievements.

Wayfarer

by Phoebe Smith

Harper

Collins;

£17 Former Wanderlust editor Phoebe Smith swaps globetrotting for a story closer to home – both emotionally and geographically. Against a backdrop of Britain’s pilgrim paths, she retreads her own

ARMCHAIR TRAVEL

tale of trauma and loss, weaving it with those of past travellers. Along the way, she shows that the UK wilderness has restorative powers far beyond an invigorating view.

WhyWeTravel

by Ash Bhardwaj

Bedford Square Publishers; £20 Journalist and broadcaster Ash Bhardwaj dives into the thing we’re all looking for: travel motivation. But as you might expect from a man who has met the Dalai Lama and walked 800km across India, this is no breezy self-help book. Instead, he ponders how a pastime that used to be associated with relaxation became all about what we can gain.

PaddlingFrance

by Anna Richards Bradt; £20

Beyond the delights of the Riviera or the winery-speckled banks of the Dordogne, France’s coast,

PODCAST: OFF THE PAGE

Readers get 10% off by using the code ‘Wandering’ on the Stanfords website (www.stanfords.co.uk). Wanderlust members can get 25% off. See p48

rivers and lakes aren’t sung about often enough. But there are marvels here. From the gorges of the Ardèche to the islands of Finistère, avid paddler Anna Richards tests 40 places for a canoe, kayak or SUP escape in France.

AroundtheWorld in80Years

by Ranulph Fiennes Hodder & Stoughton; £25

There is little extreme activity that Sir Ranulph Fiennes hasn’t done, from running seven marathons on seven continents to hauling loaded sledges across both polar ice caps. His latest read is a bit of a retrospective – as the redoubtable explorer turns 80 – gathering celebs and colleagues to review a life relentlessly well led.

FoodiePlaces

by Sarah Baxter Quarto; £15

The latest entry in the long-running, and delightfully illustrated, ‘Places’

If you were intrigued by this issue’s feature on Saskatchewan by our very own Lyn Hughes (see p84; pictured) and want to know more about Canada’s little-known prairie province, catch our new episode of Wanderlust: Off the Page to discover how to make the most of the Land of Living Skies. Closer to home, we also head to Scotland for an engrossing episode on Fife’s Coastal Path; plus, there’s plenty of other episodes to catch up on, including the popular Timeless Charm of Azerbaijan; Uncover Germany’s UNESCO Heritage; and Whales, Geoparks and Volcanoes in the Azores

series sees Sarah Baxter (another writer formerly of this parish) delve into 25 culinary capitals. Chosen with trademark good taste, these include tried-and-true foodie havens as well as some more surprising spots with their own world-class delicacies. We can feel our stomachs rumbling just thinking about it.

TheHalfBird

by Susan Smillie Penguin;

£17 We love an against-all-odds adventure that evolves into something grander. This tale of one woman’s solo sail from Land’s End to the shores of Greece has all the hallmarks of the genre, as the author quits her job to follow her dream and somehow stretches it out into a three-year voyage. With only the basics onboard, this soon turns into a thoughtful meditation on solitude, resilience and the irresistible lure of the sea.

Alamy

The Travel List

WE NEED YOU!

Have you come across a positive travel experience that helps the planet?

Think you can make a difference?

We’re compiling our second-ever edition of The Travel Green List®, with the aim of recognising the world’s best sustainable travel experiences, hotels and tour operators. In order to do so, we need the help of the most discerning and widely travelled readers on Earth… You!

What’s the big idea?

Whether it be a communitybased initiative, a conservation project or even an Indigenous experience immersing you in customs and traditions you wouldn’t otherwise encounter, we want to hear about it. Maybe there’s a tour operator offering a trip that puts people and the planet first, or perhaps you’ve come across an eco-friendly stay, big or small, with sustainability at its heart.

From citizen science projects to revolutionary modes of transport, please get in touch and let us know all about them.

Drop us a line…

Please send your suggestions, giving as much detail as possible, to greenlist@wanderlust.co.uk

Please send your recommendations by 22 April

THREE GREAT AMERICAN ROAD TRIPS

There’s something liberating about hitting the open road in the USA – and the experts at Flight Centre are here to make it happen...

An epic road trip tops the bucket list of most travellers. And when it comes to hitting the tarmac and seeing world-famous sights under your own steam, there are few better destinations than the USA.

So, what are you waiting for? Flight Centre’s team of experts are ready to help plan your self-drive adventure…

1 MOTOR BETWEEN THE HIGHLIGHTS OF OREGON

Ever wondered what it’s like to take in cities, rolling sand dunes and snowcapped mountains in one incredible road trip? Look no further than the Pacific Northwest state of Oregon.

Flight Centre’s Oregon Highlights trip begins in hip Portland, where you can sample craft beers at one of the many microbreweries before exploring the city’s eclectic neighbourhoods.

Next, drive on to Astoria, crossing the 1.2km-long Astoria-Megler Bridge over the Columbia River. The best views here are found from the top of Astoria Column, so lace up for the climb before continuing on to the cheese lover’s paradise of Tillamook, where you can sample the delights of the Tillamook Cheese Factory.

In coastal Florence, you can pay a visit to the famous Sea Lion Caves to watch these incredible creatures up close. This sets the scene for the natural wonders of Crater Lake National Park – home to the seventh deepest lake in the world – and Mount Hood, where you can enjoy a spot of hiking or skiing while admiring the highest mountain in Oregon.

Why I love it

“Oregon is chock-full of surprises! It’s got 750 vineyards, is the birthplace of the tater tot and boasts the USA’s deepest lake – what’s not to love?”

Stacey Sheehan, Flight Centre Chelmsford

The open road (this page; clockwise from bottom left) Sea lions often hang out at San Francisco’s Pier 39; Bixby Bridge is an iconic landmark along the Pacific Coast Highway; the USA’s large landscapes are ideal for hitting the highway; Multnomah Falls is one of Oregon’s natural icons

2 TRACE THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA

Fancy cruising along the Pacific Coast Highway, wind in your hair, as you soak up some of the most jaw-dropping sights the US has to offer? Make your Californian dream a reality with Flight Centre’s California Coast road trip.

Beginning in San Francisco, you can spot sea lions at Pier 39 before swapping four wheels for two with a bike ride across the Golden Gate Bridge. Your next stop is the seaside town of Monterey, where you can explore the beautiful coastline or take a day trip to the beaches of Santa Cruz.

Journey on to Pismo Beach, the perfect base to experience the parks and museums of San Luis Obispo. By then you’ll have worked up a thirst, so a pit stop in Santa Barbara for wine-tasting among the rolling hills is the perfect way to end the day.

Your final stop is starry Los Angeles. Foodies will be in heaven here, as you flit between the noodles of Chinatown and Koreatown’s delectable bibimbaps.

Why I love it

“When cruising Highway 1, I never get tired of spotting the fascinating San Simeon elephant seals. Over 17,000 gather here at peak times to laze, battle, birth and breed.”

Kelly Darke, Flight Centre Monument

3 HEAR THE RHYTHMS OF THE SOUTH

Feel the beat pulse through you on Flight Centre’s Rhythms of the South adventure, journeying from the country scenes of Nashville, through Memphis (the home of the blues), and on to New Orleans’ jazz clubs.

Tennessee state capital Nashville is where your self-drive begins. The beating heart of America’s country music scene is a natural fit for the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Experience a live performance at musical showcase the Grand Ole Opry, then swap country for blues as you hit the road for Memphis.

Once there, be sure to explore the live music clubs and bars of Beale

Street and tour Graceland – the former home of Elvis Presley. Your trip ends in lively New Orleans, where you can take your pick of the music clubs of the French Quarter before filling up on authentic Cajun cuisine. An evening jazz performance aboard a river cruise is the perfect finale.

Why I love it

“Like me, New Orleanians love music. Head for The Spotted Cat Music Club on Frenchmen Street to discover one of the city’s coolest spots for live jazz!”

Candice Gregory, Flight Centre Kingston

WHY FLIGHT CENTRE?

When it comes to planning your dream USA road trip, Flight Centre has you covered. As tailor-made travel specialists, its experts can create a trip to your exact needs to ensure you have the journey of a lifetime. There’s simply no better way to plan your American adventure. So, make your USA road trip dream a reality today and hit the highway…

HIRE CAR OR CAMPERVAN: Which is best for you?

Picking exactly how you travel on a road trip is key. There are two main choices: a hire car or a campervan. The former is a little easier to drive; it also means that you must stay in pre-booked accommodation, offering more structure to your trip. Alternatively, a campervan means you only unpack once, you can meet like-minded travellers along the way and nights in campgrounds typically allow you to wake up among the natural theatre of the USA.

Immersive road trips (this page; far right, top to bottom) New Orleans has streets as colourful as its history; pause your road trip and press play on New Orleans’ live music; crayfish is an essential ingredient in Deep South cuisine

Adobe Stock

It takes a village…

Sustainable travel is more than just reducing our carbon footprint – it’s also about how we benefit and empower the communities that host us, writes Karen Edwards

Curious travellers looking for insightful and enriching adventures often turn to experiences rooted in different cultures and communities. After all, what better way to get a feel for somewhere than by learning more about the local way of life or discovering age-old traditions? It’s likely that many of us consider ourselves richer in knowledge and our understanding of the world thanks to our travel experiences. But have you ever wondered how much the host communities gain from welcoming tourists?

In 2014, a report by the United Nations World Tourism Organisation found that ‘tourism leakage’ –whereby earned money is funnelled away from locals – was as high as 70% in Thailand and 80% in Caribbean countries. This is largely thanks to the abundance of foreign-owned operators, hotels and international supply chains in both countries.

It showed that, contrary to widespread belief, the income from tourism often doesn’t remain within the communities in which it’s spent. Ten years on from this report, it’s still the case in many destinations that those

Local heroes (clockwise from top) The Bicowa Community Tourism Project offers a glimpse of local village life and provides jobs and support to the people of Bigodi; meeting the salt workers of Île de Ré puts an important spotlight on this ancient practice; Nema Astrina demonstrates crushing coffee beans in Bigodi

who host us benefit very little. The exception to this are those places that have adopted community-based tourism (CBT), which is becoming a vital resource for local people.

According to the Journal of Tourism and Hospitality, CBT refers to tourism initiatives owned and run by local people that enable the delivery of wider community benefits. This might be through creating jobs and business opportunities within the community or putting local people in control of their own livelihoods through tourism.

It can range from the humblest operation – such as a farmstay where travellers reside with families and share their way of life – to local operators that employ residents and invest in infrastructure, health and education.

As a concept, CBT stands in stark contrast to most all-inclusive resorts, which typically import produce and encourage guests to limit their experiences (and spending) to within the

Brad Siviour; Destination Île de Ré/Camile Pinot

confines of the hotel. There is also the potential for a positive ripple effect, whereby initiatives that benefit communities build local awareness. If people are earning a good living and see the value of being stakeholders in their environment, they will be encouraged to safeguard the cultures, ecosystems and wildlife around them.

The potential for progressive impact is huge. CBT can inspire the

5 WAYS TO HELP COMMUNITIES AS YOU TRAVEL

1 Seek advice from a guide or tour operator who knows of initiatives in need of support.

2 Learn the history of a region or project so that you can tell its story properly.

3 Carry cash for souvenirs made by local artisans.

4 Empower people to value themselves and their surroundings by, for example, tipping wildlife rangers.

5 Share your experiences. Word-of-mouth can bring attention to worthy initiatives and attract other travellers.

preservation of traditions, the conservation of biodiversity and even the protection of forests and peatlands that store carbon, helping to reduce atmospheric carbon dioxide levels that contribute to climate change. So, the next time you plan a trip, pay a little more attention to where your hard-earned money is going – and remember that our informed choices can make all the difference.

Case studies

The salt workers of Île de Ré, France

Away from the busy tourist hubs of the mainland, Île de Ré invites visitors to understand the way of life that exists off the Atlantic coast of France. Practically speaking, this means getting to know the region’s farmers and fishermen better – two heritage industries that have long kept the island thriving.

Salt production is a major contributor to the local economy here, and it takes place in three main areas: the mudflats, the evaporation reservoir and the marshland. Between June and September, the island’s sauniers (salt workers) use techniques passed down through generations to harvest salt.

From March to November, guests are invited to learn the skills of salt-making from a local saunier as part of guided visits by the Salt Marshes Ecomuseum. Fees from the tour (partly in French) go to the salt producers, helping to keep this age-old tradition alive. marais-salant.com

The Bicowa Project, Uganda

While most travellers in the west of Uganda are typically bound for Kibale National Park to see chimpanzees in the wild, spare a moment to visit the small village of Bigodi on the park’s outskirts. It welcomes visitors on community walks and introduces them to a local way of life.

Launched in 2016 by project leader Kateeba Baguma Leo Amooti, the Bicowa Community Tourism Project offers programmes on how to grind and roast coffee from local beans, pick plants and herbs with medicinal properties and produce banana-flavoured beer. Its star attraction, however, is a nature walk through the surrounding wetlands that offers some of the best birdwatching in the area (look out for the piping hornbill and the little greenbul, among others).

The benefits are clear, with the basketweaving experience alone employing 100 female entrepreneurs. Each activity takes place in a local setting – often a garden – and tours have generated enough income to grade the 7km dirt road that leads into town, as well as repair two out-of-use boreholes and construct a new one to restore access to clean water. It even pays for high-school scholarships for kids who otherwise couldn’t afford an education. Ask your tour operator to include a visit to Bigodi.

Travel and mental wellbeing

Travel is often seen as a cure for stress – but it can also trigger it. Travel nurse Mary Gawthrop looks at how to manage your

For most people,travel is a positive experience.But no matter how eagerly anticipated a trip may be, it can also be unsettling. Pressure can build up when you are away from familiar support systems. Likewise, lengthy journeys, crowds, irregular meals and the disruption of your body’s circadian rhythms can all have a detrimental effect on your mental wellbeing.

To combat this, plan ahead. If you have a pre-existing condition, discuss your travel plans with your specialist or GP; they can help you decide if this is the right time for you to go. Be sure to check whether suitable medical care is available where you’re going, and consult the rules for carrying medicines – not all UK prescription drugs are legal in other countries.

Travel insurance that covers all medical conditions, destinations and activities will help to put your mind at ease.And if you’re a Brit travelling in Europe, apply for a free Global Health Insurance Card, which allows access to emergency state care in the European Union countries.

mental health abroad

Another factor to consider when abroad is culture shock, which is very real. Unfamiliar customs, strange foods, different expectations of personal space, and language barriers can be overwhelming.This is especially true when combined with jet lag and a large time difference. Physical and mental health are linked, so it’s important to look after both while abroad.

When travelling solo, taking responsibility for a trip and making decisions can be daunting. Don’t be afraid to change plans if you need to: adapting to circumstances is part of learning to enjoy travelling by yourself. Solo travellers can also experience loneliness, so work out coping strategies before you go. Learning the local language, practising breathing exercises or meditation, and staying connected with friends and family can all help you to feel less isolated on your trip.

Travel helps us to live in the moment, but don’t fall into the trap of expecting it to solve your life issues. If you are having relationship difficulties or feel burnt out at work, taking time out to travel can help and offers you

7 WAYSTO LOOKAFTER YOURMENTAL HEALTHWHILE TRAVELLING

1 Keep to a routine, eat properly and make sure that you get enough sleep.

2 Have realistic expectations of your trip, as things may not always go as planned.

3 Keep in touch with friends and family while you’re away.

4 Avoid drinking too much alcohol, and remember to drink plenty of non-alcoholic drinks, especially in hot countries.

5 Whenever possible, avoid situations that may trigger stress. It helps to cultivate a positive, flexible attitude.

6 Be open to new experiences, but be aware of your personal safety. Follow your instincts and don’t be afraid to say “No”.

7 If unexpected events happen, such as being mugged, get help (and if needed, mental health support) as soon as possible.

some distance, but any unresolved issues will be waiting for you at home. Indeed,when you return you might even feel deflated. If you’ve been away for a while, you may find it harder to adjust (reverse culture shock). Catching up with friends and loved ones and arranging activities that you missed while away helps to manage this.

RESOURCES

TheForeign,Commonwealth&DevelopmentOffice (FCDO) offers emergency support for British nationals when travelling. It also has an advice page on ‘Mental health and wellbeing abroad’. gov.uk

BefriendersWorldwide provides confidential emotional support to anyone in crisis. befrienders.org GlobalHealthInsuranceCards can be applied for via the NHS site. https://services.nhsbsa.nhs.uk/cra/start

TheInternationalAssociationforMedical AssistancetoTravellers has advice on coping with travel stress. iamat.org/travel-stress

TravelHealthPro offers travel and mental-health tips for when you’re on the road. travelhealthpro.org.uk

The NHS website has a page called ‘Can I take my medicine abroad?’ that has advice and links. nhs.uk

Mary Gawthrop is a specialist nurse in travel health at the National Travel Health Network and Centre

Keeping calm (top) Developing coping strategies and researching your destination beforehand can help to reduce stress levels while you travel

Wildlife trips for 2024

Whether seeking out snow leopards or birds of paradise, there’s an extraordinary wildlife experience for every nature-loving traveller...

DISCOVER WHALES AND PUFFINS IN NEWFOUNDLAND

Most visitors heading to Canada assume that the most westerly provinces are the gateway to the country’s extraordinary wildlife, but the truth is that the Atlantic coastline offers plenty of exhilarating encounters. Discover the World’s Newfoundland Adventure takes you out on wildlife boat tours in early summer, offering a chance to see the world’s largest population of humpback whales,

as well as spy bustling colonies of puffins and gannets that fill the air with noise and feathers. Among sea-kayaking and hiking excusions – where you can spot monster icebergs drifting offshore as the Arctic sea ice breaks up in late spring – you can also explore the cultural side of Newfoundland through its lighthouses, museums and the colourful city of St John’s. Discover the World (discover-the-world.com). Selected dates in Jun & Jul; 7 nights from £2,741pp (excluding international flights).

SPOT THE GAMBIA’S EXOTIC BIRDS WITH MEGAN MCCUBBIN

If you think The Gambia is all about winter beach holidays, think again.This tinyWest African country is one of the continent’s most underrated wildlife destinations, with more than 600 species of bird having been recorded here. It’s also both easy to get to and affordable. On a new BirdingTrip withThe Gambia Experience, you can joinTV presenter and photographer Megan McCubbin, who has been visiting this country with her stepfather, Chris Packham, since she was a child. She’ll be guiding three- and four-night trips alongside Wanderlust World Guide Award 2023 winner Malick Suso. Given Malick won the Wildlife & Safari category and knows a host of unique birding locations, it’s a great opportunity to glimpse a side of The Gambia that few bother see. The Gambia Experience (gambia.co.uk). Dates and prices are to be confirmed soon. Booking now for 2025.

EXPERIENCE SOUTH AFRICA’S FLOURISHING SAVANNAH

Mother-and-daughter team Sarah and IsabelleTompkins are working to breathe life back into 27,000 hectares of South Africa’s Great Karoo following decades of agricultural mistreatment and political turmoil. Since 1997, their private game reserve has reintroduced the first wild cheetahs, elephants and lions to the region in more than 100 years. JourneysWith Purpose’s The Great Karoo:DareTo Rewild trip lets you shadow the family as they continue to regenerate the land. In addition to game drives, bush walks, cheetah-tracking and fireside chats, you’ll join an expert conservationist in the next steps of the reserve’s rewilding process: introducing female black rhinos into a community of males. Journeys With Purpose (journeyswithpurpose.org). 2 Nov; 6 nights from £9,755pp (excluding international flights).

ENJOY WILD LUXURY IN BOTSWANA’S OKAVANGO DELTA

The Okavango Delta is high on the must-see list of most wildlife lovers, and a trio of new camps being offered by Audley Travel can now be combined on a tailor-made trip for a unique safari. Opening in May, Tawana in the Moremi Game Reserve combines luxurious suites and safari experiences in an area known for its high populations of antelope, lion and leopard. Also in the reserve is African Bush Camps’ Atzaro Okavango (see p28), which offers a dose of sustainable luxury as guests get to stay in solar-powered suites with their own plunge pools on a private concession. Lastly, Great Plains’ Sitatunga Private Island Camp recently opened, having been designed to make the most of its waterside setting on an island reserve in the delta. Audley (audleytravel.com). Tailor-made; 12 days with the option to stay at each new camp from £10,500pp (including international flights).

SPOT SEALS AND SEABIRDS IN THE WILD BRITISH ISLES

The small-group Wild Isles trip with Wilderness England embraces the windswept coastlines of Northumberland and southern Scotland. Beginning with bird and butterfly watching at HauxleyWildlife Discovery Centre, you’ll then travel to the protected Farne Islands, where you can glimpse one of the largest grey seal colonies on the UK’s east coast, plus adorable puffins. More highlights include spotting waterfowl amid the saltmarsh and mudflats of historic Lindisfarne, then crossing the Scottish border and hopping a boat to Bass Rock, where some 150,000 northern gannets fill the skies. Continue on to Dunbar – the birthplace of conservationist John Muir – and beyond for more island hopping and rambling. Wilderness England (wildernessengland.com). 15 Jun; 6 nights from £2,395pp.

Alamy; Etienne Oosthuizen/Journeys with Purpose; Megan McCubbin/The Gambia Experience; Shutterstock

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN WILD BORNEO

IntrepidTravel’s Real Borneo trip (for ages 18 to 35) immerses you in a wildlife-rich but little-visited region of Sabah in Malaysian Borneo. It’s a nature lover’s paradise,with plenty of jungle hikes, river cruises and sea-snorkelling activities to keep you busy. Each day will introduce you to an array of Borneo’s incredible wildlife, from searching for pygmy elephants and proboscis monkeys on the banks of the Kinabatangan River to swimming alongside sea turtles off the coast of Pandan Pandan Island.You’ll also visit conservation and rehabilitation centres for sun bears and orangutans, learning about the vital work that is being done to rescue, nurture and reintroduce these animals.What’s more, you’ll get to mingle with local people and gain a better understanding of the Indigenous cultures of the region. IntrepidTravel (intrepidtravel.com). Selected dates from Feb–Oct & Dec; 10 days from £720pp (excluding international flights).

CALL FOR MOOSE IN SWEDEN

The Arctic Bath Hotel trip withWindows on theWild is far more than just a hotel getaway.What it does do is make the most of the setting for this unique stay on the Lule River, high in the northern reaches of Arctic Sweden. Guests join Mikael “Micke” Suorra – also known as the ‘moose whisperer’ – and a local Sami guide to learn about moose and the art of calling them, before heading deeper into rural Swedish Lapland to seek out the ‘king of the forest’. After climbing a hunting tower, Suorra will begin his call, though he might also end up attracting some other large furry friends in the shape of bears. Make sure to bring along binoculars for a closer inspection. Windows on the Wild (windowsonthewild.com). The moose-calling experience (an additional £180pp) only runs Sep–Oct;4 nights from £840pp (excluding international flights).

SEEK OUT MONGOLIA’S SNOW LEOPARDS

Venture into the wilderness of Mongolia with NatureTrek to seek out one of the country’s most elusive animals on the Mongolia’s Snow Leopards trip. It’s a chance to go truly off the beaten track as you head into the Altai Mountains,where you’ll reside in the foothills for seven nights at a new community ger (yurt) camp. Set in a remote area that has an estimated wild population of 40 snow leopards, the team have so far had a 100% success rate when it comes to sightings. And it’s not the only feline worth laying eyes.You could also spy the lovable Pallas’s cat (as fluffy as it is grumpy-looking) as well as saiga antelope and goitered gazelle out on the steppes.The trip ends with three nights in the beautiful Hustai National Park, where you’ll get the chance to spot wild Przewalski’s horses and grey wolves out among the endless rolling grasslands. NatureTrek (naturetrek.co.uk). 31 Jul 2024; 30 Jul 2025;14 days from £6,995 (including international flights).

SEARCH FOR PAPUA NEW GUINEA’S BIRDS OF PARADISE

WildlifeWorldwide’s Birds of Paradise with Mike Dilger introduces you to you some of the planet’s most flamboyant and charismatic birds as you head to the jungles of Papua New Guinea. Led by naturalist and BBC presenter Mike Dilger, orientation takes place in capital Port Moresby before the group heads off to the remote town of Kiunga, Mount Hagen and the Bismarck Archipelago. Along the way you’ll keep an eye out for King of Saxony, blue, 12-wired and greater birds of paradise (all are explosions of colour in avian form), as well as experience the island’s Indigenous culture, snorkel the reefs ofWalindi and pay a visit toVarirata National Park, where more birding awaits. WildlifeWorldwide (wildlifeworldwide.com). 12 July; 15 days from £12,495 (excluding international flights).

Intrepid Travel/Getty; Shutterstock; Windows on the Wild

The Wanderlust Club has a great range of exclusive offers, competitions and events for our members – here are just a few. Already a member? Head to wanderlustmagazine. com/your-wanderlust to find out more.

25% OFF! Purchases on the Stanfords website

Stanfords, the UK’s leading specialist retailer of maps, travel books and accessories, has been beloved by explorers and keen travellers since 1853. Members can get 25% off all purchases of the books featured in ‘Read This’ (see p35), and 15% off any other purchases from the Stanfords website.

WIN! A copy of Why We Travel by Ash Bhardwaj

In this thought-provoking mix of personal reflections, travelogues, conversations and fascinating ideas, Ash Bhardwaj looks deeply into our motivations for travel, how we can do it better and whether, at the end of the day, it can help us all live more fulfilling lives (see Armchair Travel; p35). What he discovers may stick with you. We have three copies to give away.

WIN! A copy of Be More Japan

There’s nowhere quite like Japan. Whether you’re a dedicated Japanophile or planning your first trip there, this second-edition hardback from Dorling Kindersley offers an enjoyable dive into Japanese culture, unpicking just why it’s so easy to become obsessed with it. You can win one of three copies.

WIN! A Gandy’s Sri Lanka bag

Social enterprise Gandy’s supports underprivileged children around the world through sales of its range of products designed for and by travellers. Its ‘Sri Lanka bag’ not only looks good, but it’s tough, weather-resistant and loaded with useful pockets inside and out. Whether you’re hitting the trail or off into town, it’s a great mix of practical and stylish. Best of all, we have two to give away: one in orange, one in teal.

WIN! A Lorton & Horn Travel Wallet

You’ll never struggle to find your passport again with one of these stylish organisers, which come in a soft leather (vegan also available). As a Wanderlust member, you can get 15% off any of Lorton & Horn’s enticing range of bags, organisers and notebook covers. We also have one (in medium) to give away.

Lorton & Horn; Gandy’s

Banyan Tree Phuket, Thailand

This peaceful resort on Phuket’s north-west coast is celebrating its 30th anniversary with renewed rewilding efforts and trips designed to support the surrounding villages

Reviewed by Laura French

Set between a cerulean lagoon and the flour-soft sands of Bang Tao beach, Banyan Tree Phuket is as far from Patong – the island’s heaving party capital – as you can get. Here it’s all about switching off,with a focus on wellness that runs from morning meditation and MuayThai sessions to secluded pool villas that are silent but for the birdsong.

This tranquil retreat was built around a sustainable ethos, having been transformed from an abandoned tin mine into its current incarnation.When BanyanTree’s founders first bought the land in 1984, the lagoon was so toxic that it eroded the water pumps being used to treat it. After a large-scale regeneration that saw thousands of trees planted and pollutants removed, the water was finally cleaned up, paving the way for BanyanTree Phuket to open about ten years later.

Today, there are plenty more eco-efforts underway. Among the most notable is a rewilding project launched last year that has seen more than 7,500 native species planted across the resort, creating a series of ‘pocket forests’.A number of ‘Stay for Good’ excursions were also launched that support nearby communities. On a trip to BangTao village, we visited a female-led co-operative to try our hand at making herbal rice, before embarking on a hike through the

lush jungle. It’s just one of a handful of community-focused initiatives at the resort, with others including a nine-month vocational programme for young people at Laguna Phuket’s Seedlings Café and training for local therapists at the BanyanTree Spa Academy.

The resort’s own spa offers Thai-inspired treatments, as well as two outdoor pools and a lazy river in which to relax. Its 217 villas don’t skimp on luxury either, with some even including heated jet pools. Meanwhile,there is an array of bars and restaurants to sample, ranging from signature spot Saffron, which serves up modern Thai cuisine, to fine-dining TRE, where dishes including lobster bisque and sea urchin are served by the lagoon as lights dance on the water. Guests can also dine at any restaurant within the wider Laguna Phuket complex – a 400-hectare luxury development home to six other hotels.

The site is a tremendous refuge for birds and other wildlife too. As we explored the lagoon by boat, we spied a heron perched on the bank, then a monitor lizard gliding, camouflaged, through the water.The area’s transformation is a testament to the power of nature to rebuild itself, as well as a promising sign of things to come. Serenity pool villas start from around £337 per night, including breakfast; banyantree.com

Banyan Tree Phuket; Kiattipong Panchee; Sgotfoto

Embracing nature in South Australia

South Australia has big skies, boundless vineyards and rugged outback. Best of all, its unique stays ensure that the state’s natural gifts are always within sight

Reviewed by Qin Xie

Bouncing back

The wildfires that swept Kangaroo Island in 2020 burnt Southern Ocean Lodge to the ground. Having reopened at the end of 2023, it has taken its place among a wave of new stays in South Australia that make the most of the state’s wild setting

SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE, KANGAROO ISLAND

Heralded as Australia’s first true luxury lodge when it opened, there was a real sense of loss when Southern Ocean Lodge was burnt to the ground during the devastating wildfires of 2020. Four years on, a phoenix has risen from the ashes. The 2.0 version has reclaimed the same clifftop spot overlooking the endless blue of the Southern Ocean, affording incredible views from its 25 suites. Guests are treated to sumptuous four-course dinners and access to the walk-in wine cellar, but its signature experiences are the real lure here; these are included in any stay and range from nocturnal wildlife spotting in conservation zones to guided walks exploring the island’s flora and fauna. All-inclusive suites from £1,760 per night, with a minimum two-night stay; southernoceanlodge.com.au

RAWNSLEY PARK STATION, FLINDERS RANGES

Sitting on the southern edge of the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, and surrounded by mountains, this remote retreat began as a working sheep farm. While a herd is still kept here, the station is now better known as a well-located base for exploring the Australian Outback. Accommodation spans the full spectrum, from a caravan park to luxury eco-villas with their own pool. But the best part is the setting. Multi-day guided walks will take you into the heart of the Flinders Ranges, with spectacular scenery at every turn. There are also plenty of easy-going bush-walk trails that you can explore independently. B&B villas start from £269 per night; rawnsleypark.com.au

George Apostolidis Photography; South Australia Tourism Commission; Southern Ocean Lodge

THE VINEYARD RETREAT, MCLAREN VALE

Make the sun-soaked winelands of McLaren Vale your home from home at this lush retreat, where six guesthouses of varying sizes are cocooned in a maze of vines. Each self-catering property is unique, but all feature outdoor

decks on which to savour a glass of something delicious from the complimentary mini bar. Breakfast provisions, all sourced locally, are stocked before you arrive. And if you do eventually find a moment to venture outside,

the region is dotted with art galleries, and the beaches are only a short drive away.There are also plenty of dive sites just off the coast. B&B guesthouses from £312 per night; thevineyardmv.com.au

Aaron Citti; Baillie Lodges; South Australia Tourism Commission; The Vineyard Retreat

THE LOUISE, BAROSSA VALLEY

Gently rolling hills and neat rows of grapevines provide the backdrop toThe Louise, a luxury lodge with 15 villa-style suites in the heart of the Barossa Valley. Access to wine experiences ranging from private guided

tastings to cellar visits with winemakers is what makes this property so special – and that’s just scratching the surface. For those who want to take it up a notch, the hotel can also hook you up with hot air balloon

SEQUOIA LODGE, ADELAIDE HILLS

Perched on top of Mount Lofty, with sweeping views of the vineyard-dotted PiccadillyValley below, Sequoia Lodge is an adults-only retreat that’s packed with indulgences. Its biggest draw is its location, set among award-winning wineries – the Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, McLarenVale and Langhorne Creek are all within a 45-minute drive.There are plenty of perks on-site, too, including steaming pools fed by spring water and guided hikes along wooded trails filled with wildlife. For those staying longer, drinks masterclasses and visits to local food producers are also offered. B&B suites from £826 per night, including on-site experiences; sequoialodge.com.au

rides over the vineyards, tours in a vintage car, and picnic breakfasts in a conservation park while surrounded by kangaroos. Half-board suites from £594 per night; thelouise.com.au

COMFORT INN COOBER PEDY EXPERIENCE

Known as the opal capital of the world, Coober Pedy is one of the most fascinating places in the Australian Outback.You won’t see much above ground, though; most residents live underground because the region is so hot and inhospitable, with temperatures reaching up into the 50s (ºC) in summer. Consequently, this unique stay offers a chance to live as the locals do in rustic but charmingly authentic subterranean rooms.While here, look out for pearlescent opal seams – the hotel was at one time a mine – and explore the hidden nooks left behind from its mining days. Doubles from £120 per night, room only; cooberpedyexperience.com.au

THE FRAMES, RIVERLAND

With three retreats overlooking the Murray River, The Frames is a dramatic base for exploring the Riverland region near South Australia’s border with Victoria. A sauna, heated pool and rain showers are among the

luxuries you can tick off here, while wetland wildlife tours and guided canoe expeditions will show you a different side to Australia’s driest state.You can even decamp into the wilderness for a glamping excursion. And

ESCA AT NEST & NATURE, FLEURIEU PENINSULA

Set within the pastoral landscape of Fleurieu Peninsula’s InmanValley, this rural gem consists of just two secluded suites. Designed to work off-grid if necessary, the ethos is about immersing yourself in nature, whether by peering through the floor-to-ceiling windows, enjoying the al-fresco dining area and range barbecue,or soaking in the outdoor bath, which has been sunken into the ground.The wood-burning fireplace and selection of boardgames make it a cosy spot in which to cocoon yourself, but do bring binoculars for the many birding trails nearby. B&B suites from £258 per night, with a minimum two-night stay; esca.com.au/inman-valley

for those content to stay put, a private chef can rustle up a gourmet three-course meal in the comfort of your own villa. B&B villas from £672 per night; theframesluxury accommodation.com.au

OCEANVIEW ECO VILLAS, KANGAROO ISLAND

There are only two villas at this off-grid property, each offering serene views of Nepean Bay. Run by husband and wife teamTim andTamsin Wendt – who live just a stroll away – it’s a boutique stay for those looking for maximum interaction with their hosts. By day, you’re exploring the island on guided tours; by night, you’re sitting down to a threecourse meal cooked by Tamsin.The 200-hectare grounds are home to kangaroos and wallabies that emerge at sunset, while winged residents include the endangered white-bellied sea eagle. All-inclusive villas from £1,886 per night (including a full-day tour), with a minimum two-night stay; oceanviewkangarooisland.com.au

Cathy Edmonds; ESCA; John Montesi; Oceanview Eco Villas

OVAL HOTEL, ADELAIDE

rest of the time, its status as the only hotel set within the city’s expansive and heritage-listed parklands means it provides a restful retreat.To that end, all of its rooms, studios and suites look onto the surround-

ing greenery, while a lovely walk along the RiverTorrens starts from the front door.The city centre is also just a short stroll away. Doubles from £107 per night, room only; ovalhotel.com.au

Attached to the iconic Adelaide Oval, this hotel is well positioned for attending the many sporting events that take place at the stadium – its Bespoke Wine Bar & Kitchen restaurant even overlooks the pitch.The

Uncover the highlights of Queensland

Get to know Australia’s Sunshine State on a tailor-made journey with First Class Holidays

Nowhere serves up drama quite like Queensland. The beaches are long, the rainforests are wild and the adventures are unforgettable. This is a gloriously diverse state, packing in everything from gleaming cities and lush rainforest to the expansive outback and UNESCOlisted coastline. And by exploring this destination with First Class Holidays, you can experience it in the way that suits you best. It’s your Queensland, your way. Here, we’ve picked out eight of the state’s choicest treasures.

Brisbane

Queensland’s dynamic state capital has been confirmed as the host of the 2032 Olympic and Paralympic Games – proof, were it needed, that

Go for gold (this page; top to bottom) Noosa Heads is an ideal place to enjoy Queensland’s powdery sands and clear waters; Brisbane is Queensland’s buzzing state capital, home to a glistening skyline and lush greenery

today’s Brisbane is a bona fide world city. Its skyline is spectacular, its residents are laid-back and its dining scene is one of the most exciting in the country. Factor in its enviable location, where sun-soaked islands and a lush green hinterland lie within easy reach, and it’s not hard to see why it wins over so many travellers.

Gold Coast

Little more than an hour’s drive south of Brisbane lies classic, picture-postcard Queensland. This subtropical stretch of coastline is all about savouring the good things in life, whether you’re wandering wilderness reserves like Lamington National Park or soaking up high-octane beach resorts like Surfers Paradise. You’ll find renowned surf breaks at spots like Burleigh Heads and Coolangatta, while South Stradbroke Island – lying a short boat ride offshore – offers a wealth of wild wallabies, shifting sand dunes and crackling campfires.

Sunshine Coast

The name says it all. If there’s anywhere that encapsulates Queensland’s mix of warm weather, wide-open spaces and wild adventure, it’s here on the oh-soscenic Sunshine Coast. Its highlights include the upmarket coastal retreat of Noosa – where you may well never want to leave – the volcanic peaks of

the Glass House Mountains and the mangrove forests and white beaches of Great Sandy National Park. Hit the walking trails, browse the boutiques or just kick back with a sunset drink and a world-beating view.

K’gari (formerly Fraser Island)

The Butchulla People have cared for the land of K’gari for 20,000 years, though it took far longer for the wind and sea to form what is the world’s largest sand island. This island of lush rainforests, freshwater lakes and horizon-wide beaches has been recognised by UNESCO for its exceptional beauty. It also has some phenomenal wild swimming spots, including the Champagne Pools and picturesque Boorangoora (Lake McKenzie).

Cairns

Fabled as the gateway to Tropical North Queensland, Cairns is somewhere both old and new. The city is generously stocked with traveller-friendly bars and restaurants, and it’s worth grabbing a morning coffee on the Esplanade to watch the harbour stir to life. But the region it sits in also has an ancient past. To explore this, head inland to the Atherton Tablelands, or uncover the area’s Aboriginal heritage by joining Mandingalbay Authentic Indigenous Tours on an unforgettable half-day trip.

Port Douglas

An hour north of Cairns, life slows down at sunny, elegant Port Douglas, where the leafy streets lead to

dreamy sea views and bobbing yachts, and where the soft golden crescent of Four Mile Beach provides an extraordinary centrepiece. The town itself is the ideal jumping-off point for both the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree National Park, but gives plenty of reasons to linger too. Enjoy seafood feasts and lazy days on the sand, then join a river cruise up Dickson Inlet in search of crocodiles.

Great Barrier Reef

This is a natural wonder unlike any other. The world’s most spectacular reef stretches for around 2,600km along the Queensland coast, encompassing more than 900

The warmest colour (this page; clockwise from top left) K’gari is the world’s largest sand island; the rainforest meets the reef near Port Douglas; the Great Barrier Reef has spectacular underwater life; stroll along the soothing shore of Palm Cove; Queensland’s coast comprises over 900 islands

islands and over 3,000 individual reef systems. Life under the waves here is its own universe of coral beds, sea turtles and tropical fish. But whether you’re cruising, diving or snorkelling, the Barrier Reef is a treasure to be witnessed in a conscious, responsible way – which is where First Class Holidays’ planning and advice is invaluable.

Daintree and Cape Tribulation

The Tropical North doesn’t confine its glories to the sea. On shore, the vast, verdant Daintree Rainforest dates back more than 180 million years, making it older than the Amazon. It’s a place of staggering biodiversity, a tree-shaded realm of jungle ferns, clear waterholes and roaming wildlife. Wander its trails, see it from up on high from the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, or head to remote Cape Tribulation –where the rainforest meets the reef –for the perfect spot to unwind.

Call First Class Holidays today on 0161 888 5632 or contact them at enquiries@fcholidays.com; or visit your local travel agent to start planning your dream holiday to Queensland.

Tourism Queensland; First Class Holidays

Windows’

the beautiful Ottoman-built houses that scatter its hillside down to the river Osum. As Albania seeks to

its tourism away from beach escapes,

Alamy

A new perspective

Television wildlife presenter Kate Humble takes to the skies on the first hot air balloon flight to cross Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. But will the winds blow in her favour?

Words Kate Humble

Abeid Soka was born in a village in the Kilimanjaro Region, in the shadow of Tanzania’s highest and most famous peak. But it wasn’t this mountain that inspired his childhood dreams; it was the sight of planes flying over his home, bringing people from all over the world to visit his country.

Abeid had dreamt of being a pilot and of one day flying the planes that soared through the sky above his head. But it costs a lot of money to learn to fly a plane – money that his family didn’t have. Instead, Abeid went to guide school so that he could join the ranks of the wildlife guides that meet the passengers off the planes and take them on safari. He improved his English, learnt how to drive a 4WD and studied to identify Tanzania’s cornucopia of flora and fauna. He cut his teeth guiding in nearby Arusha

National Park, gaining the experience and expertise to take visitors around the larger national parks of Tarangire and Mwanza, before he finally earned his place among the elite guides in the Serengeti. And it was only then that he finally got to fly.

“Mohamed Masudi went to the US to become Tanzania’s first hot air balloon pilot in 2001”

Tony ran luxury camps and safaris.Tanzania was relatively unknown as a safari destination back then – and hot air ballooning was unheard of. Colin and Tony wanted to change that, and so they set about trying to get the licences and permissions to put their audacious scheme into practice.They held their nerve and were finally able to place an order for their first eight-passenger balloon.

The business was slow to take off.The Serengeti had none of the infrastructure or facilities for visitors that it has today, so tourists were few and far between. But by 2001, the pair were well enough established to be able to send one of the ground crew, Mohamed Masudi, to the United States to becomeTanzania’s very first hot air balloon pilot, unwittingly blazing a trail for a young wildlife guide called Abeid.

It is not uncommon for guides to be offered a place in a balloon when they bring their guests for a flight.That’s what had

Serengeti Balloon Safaris has been offering flights in the Serengeti since 1991, though the idea had first sparked seven years earlier when two men, Colin MacKinnon and Tony Pascoe, joined forces. Colin had been flying balloons in Kenya’s Masai Mara and ⊲

Rising with the sun (clockwise from left page) Balloon take-offs start with the basket on its side and guests strapped in – then the pilot inflates the envelope, lifting and righting the basket as it rises; a Masai giraffe looks on with curiosity; there is room in the basket for 16 people, a pilot and fuel; one of the more unnerving creatures to attract the attention of are the resident lappet-faced vultures; early morning take-offs mean you avoid unpredictable air currents as the day heats up; Kate and Abeid; (previous spread) hot air ballooning offers a fresh way to see Serengeti National Park

Previous spread: Serengeti Balloon Safaris; this spread: Gwilym Pugh; Serengeti Balloon Safaris

Up, up and away (above) Hot air ballooning was still new to Tanzania when Colin MacKinnon and Tony Pascoe first had the idea to launch a business there in 1984. It took seven years to (literally) get it off the ground, with the first balloon flight taking off above the plains of the Serengeti in 1991, when there were still relatively few visitors to this part of Tanzania; (right page) by 2019, the company had carried its 250,000th passenger, and it is now breaking new ground by offering the first trans-Serengeti balloon flights, as visitors travel west across Serengeti National Park to the eastern shore of Lake Victoria

happened to me when I was co-leading a group in the Serengeti one time. My guests had leapt at the chance to take a flight on their last day, and the final two spaces in the balloon were offered to my fellow guide and I – the company reasoning that if we enjoyed it, we would feel be happy to recommend them to other guests in the future.

I had never been in a hot air balloon before and confessed that I was as nervous as I was excited.We’d arrived at the launch site pre-dawn to be greeted by a scene of frantic activity.The inky darkness was punctuated with powerful torches and headlights. Trailers were backed up and teams of men swarmed around them, unfurling metres of striped material, chord and rope.The huge basket was pushed to the ground as vast fans were erected and gas bottles stashed.

The East African sky had started to lighten as the blanket of stars began to fade. The whooping call of a hyena was drowned out by the roar of the fans inflating the balloon – or ‘envelope’ as I discovered it was called – giving joyful shape to the formless folds of fabric.The basket lay on its side, separated into eight compartments that were each big enough for two people, leaving space for the pilot and the gas bottles in the middle.We were all directed to slide into

our compartments and attach our safety harnesses.There we lay, holding on to the handles and awaiting lift off, as my heart thumped with nerves and anticipation.

It was the same feeling Abeid had experienced when, back in 2005, he too was offered a free space and climbed into a balloon basket for the very first time.When he landed

“There we lay, holding on to the handles and awaiting lift off, as my heart thumped with nerves and anticipation”

just over an hour later, his childhood dream to become a pilot was re-ignited; now it was balloons that he wanted to fly.

Abeid qualified in 2007 and has since become the company’s chief pilot.

“His passion for flying is matched by his skill both as a pilot and as a wildlife guide,” John Corse, the company’s managing director, told me. “Which is why when he came up with the idea of trying to cross the Serengeti from east to west, which no other pilot has done before, we were confident that if anyone could pull it off, he could.”

Five months after my first flight, I found myself back in Tanzania, standing with Abeid at the company HQ in the centre of the Serengeti, watching his team make the final checks to the equipment.

“Are you worried about anything?” I asked, trying not to think about potential crash landings, hungry predators or being blown off course and into unfriendly territory. “Not a thing! I’ve been planning this for a very long time. Now I can’t wait to get started.” He gave me his wide trademark smile, his excitement becoming infectious.

Abeid had calculated that the journey of about 160km would take four flights on consecutive days, taking off from the eastern boundary of the park and crossing the western boundary to land near the shore of LakeVictoria.We would be flying over areas of the Serengeti that no one had flown

“I went to the headquarters of Serengeti Balloon Safaris and begged Colin andTony to teach me,” Abeid said. “They told me to come back in a few months. I kept going back every week, for two years, until eventually they knew I really was committed. I had to go to Italy and the USA to do my training, so they needed to be sure I would stick with it and not waste their money.” ⊲

Gwilym Pugh; Serengeti Balloon Safaris

A view from above (this page; clockwise from top) It’s not just wildebeest that move north during the Serengeti’s dry months – starting in May, herds of zebra will also trek the long route to the green grass of the Masai Mara in Kenya; the magic of ballooning is that, for once, you’re actually looking down on the birds; be prepared for early starts, with the day often beginning at 3.30am; getting to not only see elephants but plot their movements within the wider landscape of the Serengeti gives a new appreciation for the difficulties of life on the plains; (right page) but there’s nothing like an up-close encounter to get your blood pumping

over before, taking off and landing where no one had ever landed a balloon before. Camping is carefully controlled in the park, so we would be spending the nights in mobile camps close to the predicted take-off sites.

We were up at 3.30am on the first morning. It was imperative, Abeid told us, to be airborne as the sun came up, to give us the maximum flying time before the heat made the thermals too unpredictable. “We’ll have about two hours of flying time a day,” he said, “but only if we take off with no hitches.”

Fuelled by coffee and cookies thoughtfully provided by the camp staff, we set off in the dark. At the take-off site, preparations were well underway.The fans were already roaring, the ghostly outline of the balloon rippling and expanding, silhouetted against the lightening

“We were up at 3.30am… before the heat made the thermals too unpredictable”

sky.Abeid walked into its cavernous space and checked the lines and the fastenings. I went with him, marvelling at the low-tech ingenuity that was going to transport us across one of the world’s most iconic landscapes.

Moments later, Abeid was instructing me to get into the basket.With barely time to catch my breath, he gave a long blast on the burners and the basket tipped upright.We were rising into the sky, silent and majestic,

just as the red-orange glow of the sun set fire to the horizon. I gasped at the joy and wonder of it; at the beauty and complexity of the land beneath us.There was no fear, just a sense of being part of something miraculous as we floated in the silence of the African sky. Below us, herds of gazelle and wildebeest, buffalo and zebra moved across grasslands criss-crossed with a thousand tracks. The tawny shapes in the shadow of an acacia transpired to be a pride of lion sleeping off a kill. Over the subsequent days, I began to fully appreciate that this aerial view gave us something that we could never get from the ground: isolated sightings of individual animals or small herds that could now be seen in context with each other and the landscape of rivers and forests, rocky ⊲

Gwilym Pugh; Serengeti Balloon Safaris

Going your own way (above) The balloon lies between a watching lion and a herd of wildebeest – the wildlife equivalent of a rock and a hard place – as the accompanying 4WD arrives. Each journey is somewhat dictated by the winds, though a landing spot is always in the pilot’s mind. From there it’s usually a short walk or drive to the fly camp that is set up daily for guests, where walking safaris and game drives take over the afternoon’s entertainment. It’s a remarkable opportunity to not only see parts of the Serengeti that the crowds of 4WDs just can’t reach, but to accomplish a journey that few have experienced

Serengeti Balloon Safaris

outcrops and mountains. It gave me a renewed respect and appreciation for the work of the people that we met when we landed: the teams of men and women, often from impoverished communities on the edge of the park, who risk their lives by spending days on end clearing snares and tracking poachers.

But not everything went entirely to Abeid’s carefully worked-out plan. The rains that had started to fall every afternoon slowed the air. On the final day, when we were due to cross the western edge of the park, we landed 20km short of the boundary.

“We didn’t get above seven knots today,” Abeid said ruefully. “We were making 22 knots – sometimes more – during the first three days. But that is nature.There was nothing we could do.”

His attempt to be cheerful in the face of defeat wasn’t very successful. I too felt as deflated as the balloon that lay forlornly on the ground. “Could we…?” I ventured.

“That’s the boundary – the road down there!” Abeid called. A logistical scramble had given us one more day. Once again, we rose into the air with the sun. In the basket with us was George, who as a young boy growing up in the Tribal lands to the west of the Serengeti had been caught poaching. He turned his life around, and for the last 26 years he has been one of the park’s greatest guides and conservation advocates.

“Now I am returning to my land from the sky!” he said, his eyes full of emotion. Below us were small farms, people ploughing fields alongside their cattle, and children making their way to school; beyond lay the shimmering waters of Lake Victoria. A small girl looked up as we flew over her, then she started to run. As Abeid brought the balloon down, she was there, flushed and breathless, eyes wide with amazement.

Abeid and George had both told me that no one here would have ever seen a balloon. Suddenly we were aware of crowds of people, children and adults – babes in arms or tools in hand – racing towards us, laughing, shouting and waving.They gathered around the balloon, pressing against the basket. George, Abeid and I all looked at each other in silent agreement. Suddenly we were helping the little girl into the basket, as well as her friends and everyone we could fit in. Abeid lifted off and we flew just a few hundred metres with the ecstatic crowd running alongside.

The young boy who had dreamt of flying had done it! He’d made the first east-to-west crossing of the Serengeti by balloon. And at the same time, he had brought hope and joy to the people of a small village – and one little girl in particular – who will never forget this day. And neither will I.

TANZANIA

Need to know

KENYA

Rwanda

Kenya Burundi

When to go

Between June and October is the dry season in Serengeti National Park, when you can expect sunny days (25–27ºC) and clear nights. Between May and July is when you’ll see the wildebeest herds trekking north across the park, with river crossings typically sighted between July and October.

The Serengeti has two wet seasons (Nov– Dec; Mar– May); these sandwich the hottest months (Jan– Feb), when temperatures are at their most fiery (29ºC), the land is a bright green colour and the crowds are much thinner.

Zambia

Tanzania

Mozambique

Carbon offset

Visa & currency

Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Currency: Tanzanian shilling (TZS), currently around TZS3,227 to the UK£.

A return flight from London, via Nairobi, to Kilimanjaro International Airport produces 837kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Where to stay

Getting there & around

There are no direct flights to Tanzania from the UK. The author flew with Ethiopian Airlines (ethiopianairlines.com) from London to Kilimanjaro International Airport via Addis Ababa. Flights run daily from London Heathrow, London Gatwick and Manchester airports. Prices start from around £680 return and take from 14 hours.

Serengeti Balloon Safaris (balloonsafaris.com) fly daily yearround in Serengeti National Park and seasonally in Tarangire and Ruaha national parks. Daily flights start from $US550pp (£435), including all transfers, a balloon flight, champagne toast and bush breakfast.

The author stayed in a mobile tented camp run by Wayo Africa (wayoafrica.com) and was guided on the ground by Wayo Africa’s expert walking safari guides.

The trip

The author was a guest of Far & Wild Travel (farandwild.travel). This trip is the brainchild of Serengeti Balloon Safaris (balloonsafaris.com), the first ballooning company in Tanzania. The next Trans-Serengeti Ballooning expeditions take place on 19 June and 19 October 2024. Prices start from £7,999 per person for a unique six-night adventure, including all internal flights and transfers, four hot air balloon flights of between 1.5 and 2 hours (weather dependent), and meals and drinks (excluding one camp). This does not include international flights. Contact Far and Wild Travel for details.

GRUMETI GAME RESERVE Mareo Seronera

LAKE

Discover Cape Town and the Western Cape

through its ‘Neverending Tourists’

These three visitors arrived in Cape Town and the Western Cape and never left – they share what they love about this enigmatic South African region…

Sometimes, if you’re lucky, you find yourself in a destination that captures your heart and fires your imagination. A place so inspiring that you simply can’t bear to board that flight home. For Khobi from the Bahamas, Adetola from England and Scott from Northern Ireland, that’s exactly what happened. Drawn in by the adventure, luxury experiences and road trips of Cape Town and the Western Cape, they arrived as holidaymakers and stayed as ‘Neverending Tourists’. Here’s what inspired them to do just that…

ADVENTURE

“Flying is a truly amazing experience,” says Khobi, who is passionate about paragliding. “When you’re up in the sky and the clouds, and it’s just you and the elements, you have this feeling of freedom.” Freedom is what she found in South Africa’s seaside town of Wilderness – freedom and roots. What started out as a holiday turned

out to be more permanent, as she set about making a new home in the Western Cape’s Garden Route region.

“The moment that changed my life was the first time I flew off the Map of Africa [viewpoint] in Wilderness,” explains Khobi.

It’s no wonder she felt at home here. Flanked by the Indian Ocean on one side and the Swartberg Mountains on the other, the riverside town of Wilderness offers the perfect gateway for exploring the region.

The Garden Route National Park, for example, is a wonderland of lakes and rivers, while a short scenic drive to the forests of Knysna – ask a local for the tale of its elusive elephants – and Tsitsikamma yields incredible birding, multi-day hikes, river canyoning and thrilling ocean adventures.

Surfing? Victoria Bay serves up one of Africa’s best right-hand pointbreaks. Inland is an adventurer’s paradise too, whether you clip in for a single-track mountain-bike session or tackle the region’s famed running trails. Of course, you could always

to the skies, just like Khobi did.

take

Neverending tourists (above; left to right) Khobi loves paragliding over the Western Cape; Adetola believes luxury is to be found in the great outdoors; Scott loves an epic road trip; (left; top to bottom) Khobi loves kayaking close to her home in Wilderness; go off-grid in the Western Cape in its indigenous forests

LUXURY… REDEFINED

For today’s global traveller, the true essence of luxury lies in access, not excess. For Adetola it was the sheer abundance of unfiltered beauty that saw her Western Cape holiday become the first step in moving here.

“Luxury for me is being able to open my door and see the mountains, then walk down to the sea and experience amazing nature with my family,” she says. “Since I’ve been here, I’ve really noticed the effect on my body and soul.”

And the Western Cape offers a wealth of choices for discovering your own unique perspective on luxury. That could mean an oceanfront lodge where days are spent watching whales leaping beyond the waves, or perhaps indulging in a holistic wellness spa cradled by ancient mountains and lush forests.

Hungry? Seek out inspired cuisine in a West Coast restaurant, served at your table by an acclaimed forager-chef. Then take a long walk on shimmering sands, sharing the beach with only your loved ones. Or perhaps you fancy tasting delicious wines in a Franschhoek cellar, guided by the winemaker herself?

“The wine, the restaurants, the nature, the outdoors. The expanse of the place,” enthuses Adetola. “The minute that I stepped off the plane I just felt at home here.”

However you choose to define luxury, you’ll find your true north in South Africa’s Western Cape.

ROAD TRIPS

Africa has always been ‘Big Sky’ country, and nowhere does this better than the Western Cape. It’s why the open road remains one of the finest ways to explore the sinuous curves of the Atlantic coastline, or the rugged beauty of the mountainous interior.

“The Western Cape is a playground for adults,” says Scott, who loves

The Cape outdoors (clockwise from top left) Discover the simple joys of the Western Cape, such as its wild coastline; the Western Cape is a natural playground for adults; motor through majestic mountains in Cederberg; the Western Cape is somewhere you can feel at home

kickstarting his motorbike and tracing gravel byways. “I’ve travelled all over the world, and the beauty of the Western Cape lies in its diversity. You can head in any direction and find something that takes your breath away. It’s an outdoor paradise. You’ve got oceans, mountains, deserts. I find myself at ease in these landscapes.”

And there is no end of options for which landscapes you choose to seek out. Tackle the rough roads in the Cederberg and you’ll be rewarded by majestic mountain scenery. Come springtime, the West Coast erupts in a riot of flowers. Sinuous mountain passes are a delight in the Southern Cape, while the quirky farmstalls and long, lonely roads will quickly etch the arid Tankwa Karoo into your soul.

“There’s something about desertscapes that are very alluring,” says Scott. “There’s a great peace that comes with being far away.”

Sharing paradise

Exploring the customs of New Caledonia’s Kanak communities ensures that visitors see more than just a South Pacific idyll – they experience a unique culture that is now finding its voice

Words & photographs George Kipouros

Never in my life did I expect to be invited to a royal coronation, much less one taking place within a territory of the French Republic. France’s dalliance with a monarchy had come to a sharp end about 230 years ago – just ask Louis XVI. But it wasn’t European royalty I was looking forward to meeting as I boarded a boat headed to what is known as ‘the island closest to paradise’.

The road to paradise actually consisted of a ferry ride across the world’s largest lagoon to New Caledonia’s Isle of Pines, deep in the south-western Pacific Ocean. Even from the deck, the colours of the surrounding reef shone brightly. But as the island’s silhouette became clearer, my attention was drawn away from the UNESCO-listed waters to the shimmering landscape that lay ahead.

I’d been enchanted by South Pacific islands before, so I knew what to expect: every shade of blue imaginable, white-sand beaches, swaying coconut trees. But while the rocky interior of the Isle of Pines ranks high on the Jurassic Park scale of prehistoric wonder, the clue to what makes it different lies in its name.

The Cook pine tree (Araucaria columnaris) is endemic to New Caledonia and grows up to 60m tall.This lanky pine makes for a distinctive sight, with a slender, spire-like crown and a trunk that often tilts at strange angles. Scientists discovered a few years ago that wherever these trees are transplanted in the world, they will lean towards the equator.

“Above the palm trees rose what looked like an evergreen forest of natural skyscrapers”

The ferry dock at Kuto Bay lies off one of the island’s more magnificent beaches. Above its palm trees rose what looked like an evergreen forest of natural skyscrapers. Here, dozens of Cook pines had banded together to create a coastal scenery unlike any I’d seen before on a South Pacific island.

My local guide, Nelly, took in my astonishment at the landscape with curiosity. Slightly

thrown off by my faux-British accent, she explained that the trees were, in fact,“named after one of your people – Captain James Cook”.The same explorer had ‘discovered’ this archipelago in 1774, rechristening it New Caledonia after the Roman name given to the Scottish Highlands.Today it is a French overseas territory (or ‘collectivity’), though around 40% of the islands’ 270,000 inhabitants belong to the Indigenous Kanak group.

The majority of the Kunyiés – as the Isle of Pines’ 3,000 or so residents are known – are Kanaks, Nelly explained. “I will show you where and how we live,” she promised.

For my part, I was eager to understand more about the island’s Indigenous culture. I wanted to be prepared for the enthroning of the new Grand Chef (High Chief), which was planned for the following day, and there was plenty for me to learn.

REGAL MATTERS

My indoctrination in local culture began rather unexpectedly with a lesson in scouring the ground for ‘bulimes’, the endemic snails that are the pride of Kunyié cuisine.

“They are tastiest when filled with local herbs and spices,” explained Nelly. I couldn’t

help but point out the similarity with the French love of escargots. “We like a lot of the same things,” she told me with a knowing smile, “although ours are much tastier.”

Having collected an entire family of bulime snails, Nelly’s next lesson took the shape of a drive to an unusual monument.The statue of St Maurice was erected to commemorate the arrival of missionaries to the island, as well as the first Catholic service ever to take place here in 1848.Yet it offers a different narrative to the simple papering over of local beliefs.

“[The statue] brings Christianity together with the local Kanak belief system,” Nelly explained as we walked towards a Jesus-like monument surrounded by dozens of sculpted totem poles that showed an array of local spirits, animals and birds.“This is also where the Grand Chef’s hut was originally located,” she continued, explaining how history, faith and cultures had entwined down the years.

There were no other tourists at the site, though I was accompanied by a good dozen oversized geckos. The island is home to the largest gecko species in the world, the endemic Rhacodactylus leachianus. I thought it resembled a mini Komodo dragon, though I was assured its diet was far more benign.

Nevertheless, I was curious as to why there were so few other human visitors here.

“The previous chief was vehemently against cruise ships stopping at the island, so we only get visitors who stay overnight or on short trips from Nouméa,” Nelly explained.

“Surely that’s better than being swamped with hordes of day-trippers,” I proffered.

“Well, I think we could use a few more, as it’s been so difficult – especially during COVID, when we had no work at all,” she lamented. “Let’s see what the new Grand Chef thinks about all this.”

The day of the royal coronation had arrived and I was beaming with excitement at being able to attend this rare occasion. It had been two years since the death of the previous chief, and decades since the last ceremony had taken place here. Kanak chiefs and delegations of honour from all over New Caledonia had arrived on the island for the celebrations.The ensuing three-day festival was mostly centred around the main settlement of Vao and its imposing 19th-century church.

The open-air coronation ceremony was held under a makeshift marquee tent and was a rather understated event: equal parts

formal and familial. Most of it was performed in French, though it was heavily accompanied by Kanak rituals and customs.

I was kindly asked to refrain from sharing the ceremony details in writing. “Some things are unique to those who participate in this special moment,” explained Kenji, the son of the newly crowned Grand Chef Guillaume.The role itself is complementary to the democratic processes of the local government and is heavily based on custom, yet the holder does have significant influence on the wider community decisions.

After paying my respects to the new Grand Chef and his wife, I joined the hundred or so guests and a few French government officials in the main square ofVao, where the festivities were already in full swing. Kenji grinned with pride as he named the many dance troupes that had arrived from across New Caledonia for the ceremony.

“Many of these dances are only performed on the occasion of the enthroning of a new grand chef,” he remarked as we took in the dancers.Their ornate dresses were unmistakably Melanesian in design, with material features and patterns I had only previously seen in neighbouringVanuatu and Fiji.

Deep in the pines (far left to right) The fisherman’s ‘phantom dance’ is performed as part of the Isle of Pines’ enthronisation celebrations, which last for three days; the walk from the Piscine Naturelle (natural swimming pool) to the shores of Oro Bay is one of the most scenic strolls on the island and is lined with an honour guard of Cook pines that tower majestically above your head; the first speech of the newly crowned Grand Chef Guillaume is given to a gathering of guests and dignitaries on the Isle of Pines; (previous spread) the beach at Oro Bay is among the most peaceful escapes on the islands of New Caledonia

Founding father (this page; clockwise from top left) Vao’s 19th-century church was established by Marist priest Father Goujon, who converted the majority of the Isle of Pines’ Kanak population to Catholicism; Bernard (the pirogue master) prepares to set sail; the New Caledonian gecko can grow up to 35cm in length; the statue of St Maurice stands where the Grand Chef’s hut used to be – the space was given to the missionaries as a gesture of acceptance; flying over the world’s largest lagoon; the beach at Kuto Bay is the first sight of the Isle of Pines for those travelling by ferry; (right page) the Piscine Naturelle is a serene escape Alamy

Heaps of food and drink were offered to all – visitors and locals alike – at no charge. “This is part of our Kanak identity: sharing everything we have with each other,” explained Kenji as he offered me yet another heaving plateful of pork.

After a long day of eating, drinking and celebrations, Kenji suggested that I try exploring the island in a more traditional way: sailing on a Kanak pirogue. And he knew just the right Kunyié for it.

I met Bernard, a third-generation pirogue maker and captain, in the grand setting of Saint Joseph Bay. He explained that this was the traditional home of the pirogue-building clans of the island, which are famous throughout New Caledonia. His family clan had kept the secrets of how to build and navigate these boats for generations, though today they are used mostly for fishing and tourist excursions.

The pirogue design appeared more Polynesian than Melanesian to me, and I guessed at another instance of island cross-pollination.

“Well, we do share many commonalities with all the people of the Pacific.We are one big family in one big ocean,” replied Bernard.

He dropped me off near the island’s most scenic highlight, a vast natural rock pool that, over time, had filled with white sand. It is fittingly nicknamed the ‘Piscine Naturelle’, or natural swimming pool, and provided a fittingly memorable last swim on ‘the island closest to paradise’.

BUILDING A HOME

Leaving behind the royal ceremonies of the Isle of Pines, I was determined to learn more about Indigenous customs on other islands, so I continued my exploration on Lifou, a part of the Loyalty Islands archipelago and a heartland of Kanak culture.The flight there not only avoided a day-long trip involving different ferries, but afforded a chance to appreciate the Barrier Reef Lagoon from the sky.

From high above, I could see every shade of the colour blue, from the deepest indigo to the purest turquoise; the softest pastel to the most brilliant azure.The lagoon’s size was just as staggering. At 24,000 sq km, it is home to around 350 species of coral and nearly 1,600 varieties of fish. It is this rich diversity of marine life that led UNESCO to inscribe it on its World Heritage list.

As we approached Lifou, I could see the island’s interior was smothered in forest. Around it the coastline was crenelated with long, deep bays surrounded by sharp cliffs and the occasional white-sand beach. I was greeted at the brand-new airport terminal by Simone, my guide, who has served as the receptionist at the island’s Drehu Village Hotel for 28 years. Her life story seemed to mirror that of the local tourism industry.

“At 24,000 sq km, the lagoon is home to around 350 species of coral and nearly 1,600 varieties of fish”

“You’ve come at the right time,” she told me. “With the new airport and new InterContinental hotel, things are about to get busier.” I was curious as to whether this was a good thing for the island, seeing as the Isle of Pines was so hesitant in letting extra visitors in. “More visitors will mean more income and more autonomy for the islands,” she told me in a tone of undiluted certainty.

I soon learnt that autonomy is a big deal in Lifou (known locally as Drehu).The island is almost entirely populated by Kanak people, and Simone proudly explained that it had never in its history been fully colonised.When the Loyalty Islands were annexed by France in 1864, they were considered unsuitable for intensive colonisation and were instead declared a “native reserve” and left alone.

“That’s why we have kept our identity strong. Our Kanak customs are very much alive here,” Simone proclaimed with pride.

I soon saw that the Christian element was strong here too.While the French had left the islanders to their own devices, they had been far from cut off.We passed many churches scattered among small settlements.

“Missionaries came here but they were never colonists,” explained Simone. “They even brought good things with them, like our famous vanilla.”

Among the many hats worn by my guide, Simone is also the organiser of the island’s Fete de la Vanille (Vanilla Festival). She was soon driving me through the jungle-like terrain to one of her favourite plantations, where I was given a tour and learnt the backstory of this lucrative trade.This involved an English missionary called Samuel McFarlane, who transplanted the vanilla orchid from Madagascar in 1860 and thus kickstarted an industry that thrives to this day.

Leaving the sweet aromas behind, we headed towards the island’s main settlement of Wé, where I was eager to witness the

architectural highlight of New Caledonia and an enduring feature of Kanak life: the case traditionnelle (traditional dwelling).

Arriving in the village, I noticed that all the homes we passed had both a modern-style building and at least one hut-like case. We were even lucky enough to see one getting built, with a whole extended family (clan) participating in its construction. Simone explained that as soon as a couple marries here, the first thing they will do is build a case. It is the basis of all local custom.

exclusively via oral tradition, and that there are no designs, modern materials or tools used in its construction.

“The case is our image and our identity – a sacred place for our community ”

Seeing my interest in this, she arranged for me to visit an exquisite example of one, made primarily from coconut trees.We met the owner, Pascal, who explained that it took him and his family just two weeks to construct it.

“It is our image and our identity – a sacred place for us and our community,” Pascal affirmed. He also shared that the know-how for building a case had been passed down

We finished the day with a drive to the rocky yet still wildly lush northern part of the island, which is full of spectacular cliffs and limestone caves. We stopped to watch the sun set at Jinek Bay, a popular snorkelling spot and the only location where I met other visitors on the island. It made me curious as to who comes here.

“They are mostly French; we rarely get anyone else these days,” sighed Simone. I remarked that it was a French Territory after all, and she reminded me once more that Lifou’s population was almost exclusively Kanak, except for a few residents and civil servants on secondment from Metropolitan France. But the smile on her lips hinted that there was a much larger story to be told.

A PACIFIC MARRIAGE

The co-existence of Indigenous Kanaks and French mainlanders in the archipelago has been in the spotlight in recent years.This has been largely due to the three independence referenda that were held here between 2018 and 2021.These were part of the Nouméa Accord of 1998, a French commitment to grant increased political power to the territory and its Kanak people over a 20-year transition period. After all three referenda were voted down, the islands remained tightly connected to mainland France –17,000km away – though have retained their limited self-governance and access to French-quality healthcare and education.

Having experienced Kanak culture on two of the islands here, I was eager to gauge the vibe in capital Nouméa, a city on Grande Terre that is home to around 65% of New Caledonia’s population. Here I met Nellye, my half-Kanak, half-Papua New Guinean guide, who began our tour with a drive around the city and its key landmarks.

Nouméa has a setting to dazzle the senses.The capital lies perched on a hilly ⊲

A shore to remember (this page; clockwise from top left) Luengoni Beach is one of the most captivating spots on Lifou island; Pascal explains the techniques of building a case, the hut-like dwellings that scatter the islands and which are customarily built when Kanak couples marry; a glimpse of Pascal’s case from the outside; the Sacred Heart of Qanono Church in Wé is the destination for an annual pilgrimage in June by Lifou’s Catholic community; orange daylilies are found all over Lifou Island; (right page) the Jokin Cliffs rise 40m high in the northern part of Lifou and are a great spot for spying migrating humpback whales (Jul–Sep)

Culture clash (this page; clockwise from top left) The Isle of Pines’ fish-filled natural swimming pool is fringed by rocks that ensure the waters stay calm, making it feel like you’re standing in a giant aquarium; having struggled to initially attract settlers to New Caledonia, France established a penal settlement in 1864 on Nou Island (now Nouville), which includes this convict chapel; the ten monumental cases of Tjibaou Cultural Center are a remarkable sight in Nouméa’s Tina district; the capital’s Château Hagen cultural centre is one of the most beautiful Belle Époque mansions in the town; a traditional case in Lifou

peninsula, offering plenty of dramatic views across the lagoon and its serene bays. Dotted around this clean, well-kept and leafy town were many exquisite examples of 19th-century Belle Époque architecture.These were now mostly public buildings, evident by the French flags flying outside each one.

While Captain James Cook first discovered New Caledonia for Europeans in the late 18th century, French settlers didn’t arrive here until 1853. Nellye was keen to take me on a deeper dive into the origins of the French colonisation of New Caledonia, starting with the historic penitentiary on the nearby peninsula of Île Nou-Nouville.

This remarkably well-preserved prison site was scattered with museum-like exhibits across its former buildings. During my visit, I wandered the governor’s house, the convict bakery and the chapel, learning about the challenges faced by the 22,000 convicts that had passed through its doors between 1864 and 1927. As part of their imprisonment, they built much of the early infrastructure of the island, and many would go on to settle here once released.

Having seen one half of New Caledonia’s past, Kellye showed me the other as we visited theTjibaou Cultural Center.This hub for the celebration of the linguistic and artistic traditions of the Kanak people was sketched out by architect Renzo Piano. It’s acclaimed design offers a futuristic take on the Kanak case, with its grand structures somehow managing to blend in seamlessly with the surrounding nature. Still, I liked the real ones in Lifou better.

During my visit, the centre was temporarily exhibiting some of the most precious treasures of Kanak heritage, thanks to the construction work being undertaken at the Museum of New Caledonia. Nellye underlined that the exhibits had been curated under the leadership and guidance of Kanak clans from across the archipelago.This was no small feat, as there are 28 distinct Kanak languages within the islands of New Caledonia. Locals from different regions sometimes can’t even understand each other. “French comes in handy,” smiled Nellye.

She added that experts from mainland France were involved in the renovation and expansion of the Museum of New Caledonia, which will be among the largest in the South Pacific when it opens in Nouméa this year.

“So, the island’s European and Kanak communities coming together to celebrate New Caledonia’s diverse culture and heritage – surely that’s a good thing?” I prompted.

“Well, we’ve already made the choice of staying together. Like in every marriage, we’ll have to work to make the best of it,” she concluded with a hopeful smile.

NEW CALEDONIA

Need to know

When to go

New Caledonia has a subtropical climate. The drier seasons are between April and May, and September and November. The January/February period is very rainy and muggy. Avoid Australian schoolholiday periods, as Australians are increasingly flocking to New Caledonia due to the short distance (two to three hours’ flight) from Brisbane and Sydney.

Currency & visa

Currency: CFP franc (XPF), currently around XPF140 to the UK£. Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days.

Getting there & around

There are no direct flights to New Caledonia from the UK. Your route will typically involve one or two stops. The quickest is via Singapore or Tokyo and then onwards with New Caledonia’s flag carrier, Aircalin (aircalin.com). Qantas (qantas.com) and Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.co.uk) both operate frequent flights from Australia and New Zealand respectively. Flights from the UK start from around £1,350 return and can take 25 hours or more. La Tontouta International Airport lies 46km north of Nouméa. Air Calédonie (air-caledonie.nc) and Air Loyauté (air-loyaute.nc) provide internal flights, though these are on the pricey side. Betico 2 Ferry (betico.nc) offers connections between Nouméa, the Isle of Pines and the Loyalty Islands. You will need to hire a car on the islands, as public transport is minimal outside of Nouméa.

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Nouméa via Singapore produces 1,669kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/ sustainable-travel.

Where to stay

A limited number of hotels are complemented by campsites, hostels and homestays. Some of the best choices in Nouméa include the beachside Le Méridien (lemeridien.com; from £180pn) and Hilton Nouméa La Promenade Residences (hilton. com; from £105pn). The Le Méridien (lemeridien.com; from £250pn) on the Isle of Pines is outstanding. On Lifou, look out for the friendly Drehu Village Hotel (hoteldrehuvillage.nc; from £100pn) and new InterContinental (ihg.com; from £585pn).

Further reading

Newcaledonia.travel – The official tourism board website has heaps of info and inspirational videos.

The trip

The author’s ground travel was managed by Pacific-specialists Travel Nation (travelnation.co.uk), with support from the New Caledonia Tourism Board. Tour operator Travel Nation offers an island-hopping journey that includes stopovers in Melbourne and Sydney, as well as Nouméa, Lifou and the Isle of Pines, from £5,645 per person, including flights and accommodation.

Nouméa

ISLE

Find your own alpine escape in

SAAS-FEE/SAASTAL

Saas-Fee/Saastal isn’t your regular one-dimensional alpine destination. Whether you’re seeking nature, epic views, wild hikes, culture or just to wind down, there’s a Swiss adventure here for everyone…

Set amid an amphitheatre of peaks topping 4,000m, car-free Saas-Fee and the Saas Valley are an oasis of alpine tranquillity. There’s fine food and cool waters aplenty, but the outdoors will soon come calling. From hiking to glacier tours in nature, Saas-Fee/Saastal is dubbed the ‘Adventure Destination’ for good reason. But what kind of adventure you have is up to you...

Here you’ll find… ADVENTURES IN NATURE

Hike the mountains

With 350km of mountain trails to explore, there’s a hike for everyone here, from the casual stroller to the hardcore adventurer. In total, there are 18 peaks above 4,000m to swoon over

– or climb. And if you want to conquer your first high-level summit, the relatively easy ascent up Allalinhorn (4,027m) starts when you depart the world’s highest underground funicular, the Metro Alpin.

Learn the ropes on Mittaghorn’s via ferrata

There are seven via ferratas in this holiday region. With the aid of permanent ladders, metal rungs and steel cables, you can traverse sheer slopes while being securely roped. Mittaghorn’s via ferrata is a great choice for beginners, letting you scramble and climb to the 3,000m summit for views across the valley.

Hurtle down Hohsaas on a mountain bike

Starting out from Hohsaas at 3,200m, cyclists can barrel down mountain

Best foot forward (top to bottom)

Saas-Fee/Saastal is studded with mountains over 4,000m high; the lush greenery of the Triftalp trail makes for fine summer hiking; soak up the Mattmark Dam and its limpid-blue waters on foot

trails past glaciers, streams, moraine, alpine pastures and forests. Tune into the soothing tinkle of cowbells, the babble of water or the shrill whistle of a marmot as you descend 1,650m to Saas-Grund.

Step into the ice-sculpted world of Fee Glacier

Strap on your crampons and step out onto the otherworldly Fee Glacier. It’s a great chance to explore razoredged ridges of ice and plunging crevasses while being roped to an experienced guide.

EPIC VISTAS

Cable cars transport ramblers to relaxing restaurant sun terraces and mountain trails where dizzying views unfold with every corner turned.

Hohsaas (3,200m)

Just ten minutes from Saas-Grund by cable car, hike the 18 Four-thousandmetre Peaks Trail and learn about these giants of the Alps. For adrenalin junkies, either fly down the Hohsaas Bike Trail or take a glacier tour.

Längfluh (2,870m)

Hop on the cable car to Längfluh for a 15-minute ramble to the glacier lake. End on the restaurant sun terrace to soak in vistas of Fee Glacier, the Mischabe massif and the highest peak set entirely within Switzerland’s borders – the Dom (4,545m).

Hannig (2,336m)

Enjoy the Sun Trail leading to Café Alpenblick. Grab some binoculars and check out the local wildlife – chamois, ibex, marmot and deer – before spending a night in the romantic Bubble Suite at Alpenblick, which has views overlooking the walls of Mittaghorn and Egginer. A new cable car is in operation from 2024.

Mattmark Dam (2,197m)

Explore the Mattmark Dam exhibition then circumnavigate the area on foot or by bike, soaking in the intense blue of the reservoir.

MOUNTAIN CULTURE

From rustic Alpine fare to international gourmet cuisine, Saas-Fee/Saastal has it all. For a special treat, take the cable car up to the revolving restaurant Allalin, the highest in the world at 3,500m.

From your first overnight stay, you will receive the SaastalCard in almost any accommodation in the region, which gives you unlimited use of the cable cars and public transport for the ultimate in flexibility for exploring the holiday region.

But you can’t visit Saas-Fee/Saastal without indulging in some hearty mountain cuisine. Try gooey raclette, cheese fondue, cordon bleu and many other Swiss specialities at the many restaurants and cafés you’ll find across the region.

If you’re after high-altitude tranquillity, try pottering around the old wooden chalets found in the idyllic mountain hamlet of Furggstalden. Gaze to the hills and you’ll see that it’s surrounded by Valais barns that have been burnt a dark brown by the endless sun.

To find out more about the culture and customs of the region, head for the renovated Saas Museum. Despite its small size, it’s packed with a treasure trove of fascinating artefacts, photographs and interactive displays demonstrating how life has changed over the decades in the valley and surrounding mountains.

Alpine aura (top to bottom) Feel nature’s force at Fellbach waterfall; taking on a glacier trail is one of SaasFee/Saastal’s most spectacular experiences; traverse rugged Kreuzboden by bike

ALPINE RELAXATION

When limbs ache at the end of a day in the mountains, there are few things better than slowing down and taking an alpine dip in cold waters or chilling out at one of the Kneipp hydrotherapy facilities in the Saas Valley. Between its paddling pool, stream and barefoot path, you’ll soon feel refreshed. Or soak in the waters of Aqua Allalin in town with its saunas, baths and pools.

Cold-water swimming comes with many health benefits, such as lowering blood pressure, easing aches and pains and improving your mood while connecting you with nature. Just a few minutes from Saas-Almagell, you can ease into the fresh glacial waters of the secluded Hell-Chessi. This pool is also surrounded by great slabs of rock, which are perfect for warming up in the sun afterwards.

Check out the Wellness and Yoga Trail at Kreuzboden too. Hammocks and deck chairs are strung out along the trail and lake, along with six yoga stations and another Kneipp facility. So why wait? Saas-Fee/Saastal offers the ideal combo of adventure, culture and relaxation.

Saastal Tourismus AG; Filme von Draussen; Puzzle Media; Amarcster Media

Return of the

BISON

Nearly 150 years after the Indigenous Peoples of Saskatchewan lost their land to a treaty, the return of the bison herds to the plains of Wanuskewin signals a new dawn, as their stories are finally told

Words Lyn Hughes

ÒO

ur ancestors are here. They’ll walk with us today,” said Darlene Brander of the Red Earth Cree Nation and CEO of Wanuskewin Heritage Park, where we were gathered. “You’re all here for a reason,” she added, looking at the assembled international visitors. It was only my first full day in Saskatchewan, but it had already been a stimulating and perplexing one.

I was in Saskatoon for a tourism conference; however, despite several visits to Canada, I realised that I knew very little about its past. On arrival, for example, visitors had been welcomed to ‘Treaty 6’. One journalist looked puzzled and turned to me: “What do they mean by that?” I couldn’t really answer.

After years spent exploring Canada’s wildernesses, this gap in knowledge was an open invitation to learn more about the country’s heritage. And I was in the perfect location. It is believed thatWanuskewin was a significant place for the Indigenous Peoples of the Northern Plains for over 6,000 years.

“This is because it had what humans needed: water, food, shelter, plus a lot of plants and wildlife,” said one of the guides showing me around. “People were drawn here because of all these things, but it also had something more. Something powerful.”

Situated above the Opimihaw Creek and the South Saskatchewan River,Wanuskewin isn’t as flat as the rest of the featureless prairie, and its folds hide secrets.The First Nations who used this land were migratory, staying a few weeks at a time, and maybe for the winter. One of theWanuskewin team,Andrew McDonald, told me that it is believed that this was Canada’s first Indigenous corridor –a well-trod throughway for nomadic peoples.

“There are lots of things here in close proximity: the most northerly medicine wheel in the world, petroglyphs, bison jumps. All are within a few minutes’ walk.This is not just where Cree came… the other Nations were here too. It was centrally located, and commerce would also have happened.”

The plains people relied heavily on bison to survive. In autumn, they would carry out a major push to get supplies for the winter.The hunters would find a herd, which might be of between 75 and 150 bison, mostly females and calves.They would then funnel them towards a drop, driving them over.The bison are front-heavy, so they can’t stop once they

“Each of the 15 poles that hold together a tipi is accompanied by a teaching”

go over a steep edge.They fall, breaking their necks or legs; thereafter, the hunters close in. These drops are known as ‘bison jumps’.

But by the late 19th century, the numbers of bison here had plummeted from 30 million to around 1,000. In fact, some claim they went down to just 325 individuals. For the people of the plains, who were so reliant on them, it meant the end of a way of life.

Wanuskewin has reintroduced bison to its grasslands, with 33 now grazing the prairies. I went to view them, and any question around whether they were thriving was answered when the dominant male mounted a female in front of me.The first calves have already been born, with more expected this year.

BUILDING A PARK

To find out more about the importance of the bison historically, I joined volunteer guide Jennie. But before we did anything else, she insisted that we cook bannocks over an open fire.This type of unleavened bread originated from Scotland; it was adopted by the First Nations after bison meat had become scarce and they had moved onto the reservations.

I had spotted a tipi behind us, and Jennie took the opportunity to give me a quick cultural lesson while our bannocks cooked. She explained that each of the 15 poles that held it together was accompanied by a teaching,which was given by the women because

Previous spread: Tourism Saskatchewan/Chris Hendrickson Photography; this spread: Arturo Torres; Tourism Saskatchewan

Life on the plains (left–right) The First Nations people of the plains lived in tipis – conical skin-and-frame dwellings – that stood strong against the winds that swept the grasslands and were easy to pack up and move; the bison at Wanuskewin are part of a rewilding programme that is aimed at not just re-establishing a herd within the park, but helping to restore the native grasses of the endangered prairies; Dakota Dunes Resort (see ‘Need to Know’) is owned by the Whitecap Dakota Nation and offers a range of cultural experiences that visitors can take part in to learn more about the Indigenous Peoples of Saskatchewan

they were the ones who put up the tipi, maintained it, took it down and were responsible for its transportation.

“The ‘canvas’ would originally have been bison hides, with bison sinew used to sew them together,” she told me, turning her gaze to where the large tipi stood behind us.“In the past, they would not have been so big – just eight to ten feet (2.5–3m), as dogs had to pull everything when sites were moved.”

Having eaten, Jennie led the way on a trail walk. Dappled patches of autumnal sun lit up the wide array of native plants and trees, and she pointed out wild roses, wolf willow bush, hawthorn and more – all either edible or medicinal in some way.We passed the bottom of a bison jump and entered a grassy meadow where these animals would have been processed, with nothing being wasted.

There was little to see now except for some holes in the ground. “Gophers!” said Jennie when I queried what had created them. “They are nature’s archaeologists; they unearth bones and artefacts.”

The next person I met was also no stranger to digging in the dirt. Dr Ernie Walker was pivotal in understanding the value of Wanuskewin, back when the archaeologist first arrived here more than 40 years ago. He ensured that it became recognised and protected, and still spends much of his time here. I asked him how he had first come across the site.

same time, we were trying to work with the government at different levels on legislation that could be put in place to protect the land. And ultimately, in 1983, the province designated this a Provincial Heritage Property.”

It was far from easy to get the support needed. Ernie reminisced about a meeting between the mayor and city councillors in 1982 in which he was told that “no one cares about a load of old bones”. But he stuck to his guns and told any official who would listen that the site was linked to the First Nations.

“It’s about their culture and history, and they should be a part of it.That was pretty radical thinking in the early 1980s,” he told me. Elders from the Indigenous community were consulted, and they were in agreement.

“Jennie pointed out wild roses, wolf willow bush, hawthorn – all either edible or medicinal”

“There are several stories here,” continued Ernie. “First of all, it’s about the most endangered biome in North America: the prairies. The second story is about the bison. How do you go from 30 million bison in 1872 to 1,000? It was just wanton destruction.There were difficulties with the Indigenous Peoples out west, and so the idea was to kill all of the bison knowing that it was their main economy.The third part is Indigenous cultural history.Wanuskewin is small, and it’s packed with these archaeological sites of every description. It’s like looking through a window into pre-Contact times.”

“Its medicine wheel had been known about since 1932, and I really wanted to see it. But the rumour around the community was that the landowner was a very difficult person to deal with; he lived by himself and was a curmudgeon.These are qualities I highly value, and he became a really good friend of mine. I worked for him for two years, helping with his cattle.There was really no place that I could go on the property where I wouldn’t find artefacts: stone tools, pottery, bones, charcoal – the detritus of pre-Contact life on the plains.”

Ernie soon went off to study, but the landowner later contacted him to say that he wanted to sell the land.

“A lot of prominent Saskatoon lawyers, business people and wealthy folk got together and we started trying to raise money. At the

Four petroglyphs have since been found in the park, and Ernie revealed that this was only down to the reintroduced bison. During the animal’s frequent dust baths, in which they roll on the ground, one had exposed a boulder with a groove running across it. On taking a closer look, Ernie realised that it was in fact a petroglyph – an unusual find on the plains. Previously, an Elder had predicted that the bison would bring gifts. And so they did.

A DEAL WITH THE DEVIL

I was curious to learn more about the link between Wanuskewin and the much-referenced Treaty 6. I was told to talk to Jordan Daniels, a member of the Mistawasis Nêhiyawak (Cree) Nation and the archaeology interpreter at the park. He took me to a glass cabinet in the exhibit room and pointed inside.

Alamy; Destination Canada; Lyn Hughes; Roamcreative.ca

What was lost (this page; clockwise from bottom left) Jordan Daniels stands over a copy of Treaty 6, which his seventh great-grandfather, Chief Mistawasis, signed; horses made a big difference to the people of the plains – before that, dogs were used for pulling goods and supplies; Dr Ernie Walker was instrumental in setting up Wanuskewin Heritage Park; a medal was given to every signatory of Treaty 6; (right page; clockwise from top left) a dance performance at Fort Carlton; Wanuskewin’s Visitor Centre; Government forces attacked Batoche from the river in 1885; despite being Cree, the Creeland dancers still perform Métis jigs

“In Canada, we have a number of treaties – 1 to 11 – spanning from eastern Ontario all the way up into the NorthwestTerritories.

The number is just the order that they were signed in. Geographically, we are located in Treaty 6.This,” he gestured to the cabinet, “is an original copy of the document. It is the only one that is known to exist today.”

The controversial treaty covers a large area of Saskatchewan and Manitoba, and was signed in 1876.There have been disagreements ever since about whether the Indigenous bands – who were struggling after the bison numbers plummeted – had been misled into ceding their rights, and whether they truly understood what it would mean to be moved onto the reservations.

“When our people signed these agreements,” said Jordan, “we were never told that we were surrendering or giving up anything. Our intent was that we would share the land and coexist peacefully and equitably here. One of these lines says that the Indians hereby cede, surrender and relinquish any legal title to the land they have given. But that was never communicated to our people.”

The agreement was signed by several chiefs. Most notable in the initial negotiations were Chiefs Mistawasis and Ahtahkakoop.Those stood inWanuskewin’sVisitor

Centre gathered around as Jordan spoke with passion about theTreaty, before revealing his own deeply personal connection to it.

“This has come full circle for me because Chief Mistawasis was my seventh great-grandfather. So, seven generations later, I’m still here, and I’m able to tell a story and explain who we are as a people. I’m able to look out and see bison genetically close to the ones that he would have seen in his lifetime.”

Jordan’s words had deeply moved me. But, as he had explained, his people weren’t the only ones to be affected by the treaties. Rampant Canadian expansion in the 19th century had set in motion discontent that would soon spill across the grasslands. My next stop was a particularly important

site for another of Canada’s Indigenous groups: the Métis.

In 1885, less than a decade after the signing of Treaty 6, the Métis rebelled against the Canadian authorities and established their own provisional government, prompted by rising concerns over their land rights and survival. Its climax came at Batoche.

“A lot of people think of this as just a battleground,” said Adam Matheson at the Batoche National Historic Site,“but we also celebrate the Métis people.This is living history.The site is politically important to the Métis, and they are involved too.”

The word Métis comes from the French word for ‘person of mixed parentage’, and it was given to the offspring of the union between fur traders (mainly French and Scottish) and First Nations women in the 18th century. Over time, they developed their own distinct culture and way of life.

The Métis settlement of Batoche was created in 1872, with each family allotted land along the South Saskatchewan river. By then, western Canada was a place of expansion, but its Indigenous Peoples were already established here.Treaties were offered to the First Nations that resulted in most of them being confined to reserves, but the majority of Métis would not sign away their land. ⊲

“The authorities didn’t know how to deal with them.Were they First Nations or not?” explained Adam. “The Métis started petitioning to keep their land, their language, their way of life, their rights… So, in 1885, the Canadian authorities sent an army here.”

We took a shuttle to the site’s whitewashed Roman Catholic church and rectory, both dating back to 1882. Stepping inside the church was like strolling back in time.

“What’s here is either restored or a replica,” said Adam. “Most Métis are Catholic, and mass is still occasionally held here.”

If the church was a glimpse of another age, the rectory doubled down. Pocked with bullet holes on the exterior; inside, it was furnished with period fittings and examples of Métis sashes decorated with beadwork. Despite its modest size, it was more than simply a priest’s home.This building was once integral to the community. People would seek medical help here, kids would be taught, and it also acted as the post office – though very few could read or write.

“The army came along the river,” said Adam. “They fired warning shots so that the families ran away from their houses, which the soldiers then set on fire.When army reached here, the priest, Father Moulin, came out and negotiated that they be saved.”The church was used as a field hospital by the government soldiers.

The resistance was led by Louis Riel, political leader of the Métis nation, and Gabriel Dumont, who has also gone down in folklore as a Métis leader.The battle ended three days after it began on 12 May when the

“The intention of the schools had been to eradicate Indigenous culture and language”

Métis ran out of ammo.Whereas Riel was captured and hanged for treason, Dumont escaped over the border to the USA, where he joined Buffalo Bill’s circus and regularly re-enacted this famous battle. In 1886, he was offered amnesty and eventually returned to Canada; and after he passed away, he was buried in a cemetery in Batoche.

Today, more than half a million people in Canada identify as Métis. Michif, one of their prime languages, is down to fewer than 300 speakers, but there are now moves to bring it back as a living language. “It is all part of the reconciliation,” said Adam.

RECOGNISING LOSS

Discussion of reconciliation dominated the conversation at my next stop too, as I met up with Kevin Seesequasis of Pêmiska Tourism outside the Duck Lake Interpretive Centre. He was eager for me to experience a brand-new tourism initiative.

“Welcome to Treaty 6 territory,” he said. “The town is Duck Lake.The community is Beardy’s and Okemasis Cree Nation, and it owns PêmiskaTourism.The word Pêmiska is Cree and means ‘come and find it’.” By now, I was curious as to just what ‘it’ was.

A line of quad bikes was waiting for us, so we doubled up and set off along the quiet roads. Our first stop was the site of the former St Michael’s Indian Residential School.This had operated from 1894 to 1996, accommodating Indigenous children from around the country. It had burnt down years ago, and there was little to see now – just a grassy field with a white tipi in the centre.

Roy Petit, an elder and former chief, was waiting, and performed a smudging ceremony to welcome us into the community. He explained that it was “like washing yourself” in order to open your heart. In practice, we stood in a circle as Roy moved in a clockwise direction, bringing each of us in turn the bowl of smoking buffalo sage.We each drew the smoke over our eyes, ears and chest.

The intention of the residential schools had been to eradicate Indigenous culture and language. Roy’s mother had gone here, and he described how she’d been able to see her brother across the hallway but wasn’t allowed to speak to him.When the children finished their schooling, they realised they didn’t really belong to one culture or another.

But there was an even more tragic story to be told here. I spied a line of children’s toys leading to a tipi. At one end fluttered an orange flag bearing the message ‘Every Child Matters’. Kevin explained: “Before we have reconciliation, we have to have knowledge and truth.There are 101 documented deaths here.We don’t know how many undocumented.This is a memorial to the little souls who never got to go home.”

In 1910, a man named McArthur – an ‘Indian agent’ authorised to interact with the Nations on behalf of the government – wrote to the Department of Indian Affairs: ‘The Department should realise that… about one-half of the children who are sent to the Duck Lake Boarding school die before the age of 19 or very shortly afterwards.’

“We’ve held ceremonies to release some of the grief and anger,” Kevin added. “150 years ago it was not OK to be Indigenous. We want people to come, hear and feel.”

We remounted the quad bikes and headed on, passing a sparkling lake with hundreds of wading birds on its shores; it was nature at its most beautiful after the pain and poignancy of the school visit.The next stop was within the reservation itself. Kevin pointed to where a boundary marker would have signified the limit of where residents could go without a pass from the Indian agent designated to them.

“They couldn’t go out to sell their crops without permission, and the Indian agent would take a part of their earnings.You had to have permission to make money. It’s only been in the past 30 years that we have started to develop an economy.”

⊲ Lyn Hughes; Wanuskewin Heritage Park

The resistance (this page; clockwise from top left) Saint Antoine de Padoue church was an important centre for Métis communities in Batoche as more and more settlers arrived after the battle in 1885; the Métis spent their winters embroidering sashes, gloves and other items; tributes to the children who lost their lives at St Michael’s Indian Residential School; the chapel within the rectory at Batoche; Wanuskewin’s bison have been welcomed back by the First Nations of the area; former chief Roy Petit carries out a smudging ceremony; (left page) Adam Matheson stands in Batoche cemetery, where those who fell in the 1885 battle are buried

Part of the economy for the Beardy’s and Okemasis now involves offering tourism experiences. It was early evening by the time we arrived at Fort Carlton, a site with a pivotal role in the region’s history.The former Hudson’s Bay Company trading post and mail depot was whereTreaty 6 was first negotiated in 1876.The fort was destroyed by fire during the 1885 resistance; it has since been partially reconstructed, and the surrounding land designated a provincial park.

A row of new A-frame lodges was set along the meadow facing the fort.They were just awaiting plumbing and electricity before they could be offered by Pêmiska Tourism yearround as visitor accommodation.

“It’s the first time that a First Nation has leased land in a Provincial Park,” said Kevin

proudly. “Imagine waking up here in the morning and seeing a bear and other wildlife!” Fat bikes, cross-country skis, snowshoes and kayaks were sitting invitingly and just begging to be used on the surrounding trails.

We made our way into an open pavilion inside the fort. At one end was a replica of a Treaty 6 medal – given to those at the signing. We had been promised a programme of entertainment. Kevin and the other members of the community form a troupe called the Creeland Dancers, Canada’s longest-serving Indigenous dance group.To my surprise, the first performance was a Métis jig. Kevin’s dance partner, Amy, explained: “ Us Cree have a strong connection to the Métis.We gifted each other dance. It’s not just about entertainment; it’s an opportunity for cultural enrichment.”

The following dances were a mix of First Nations and Métis styles, old and new. I sat back and took in the fancy shawl dance, the grass dance, the jingle dance, various warrior dances and the dizzying orange blossom dance – the fastest moves in the province.

When they had finished, we made our way outside to a crackling fire.The night was clear and cold, the sky heavy with stars. Coyotes howled a timeless soundtrack as we snuggled into blankets, drank hot chocolate and ate bannocks while hearing tales of years gone by. Before we left, we were gifted orangeT-shirts, the significance of which I would soon learn.

By total coincidence, the next day was the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation – originally, and still colloquially, known as Orange Shirt Day. It was created by Arturo

Torres; Lyn Hughes; Tourism Saskatchewan/Chris Hendrickson Photography

Carving a future (this page; clockwise from top left) Pêmiska Tourism now arrange stays in lodges or tipis at Fort Carlton as part of a drive to encourage visitors and tell the story of the Beardy’s and Okemasis Cree Nation; the grand entry at the ‘Every Child Matters’ powwow, which was held to keep alive the memory of the children lost to the residential schools; the rectory at Batoche is still pocked with bullet holes from the battle in 1885; the First Nations have a tradition of oral storytelling that persists even today; (right page) Dakota Dunes Resort is a good base for exploring the area and its heritage

PhyllisWebstad, a survivor of the residential school system, who told the story of how her personal clothing, including a new orange shirt, was taken from her on her first day at the school.This shirt symbolises how the residential school system attempted to take away the Indigenous identities of the children.

I joined a commemoration walk through Saskatoon, the streets a sea of orange as thousands of people defied the drizzle, marching to the banks of the South Saskatchewan river. There, a ring of former residential school survivors, middle aged and elderly, sat proudly on reserved seats. Schoolchildren had been invited to make birthday cards, in honour of the fact that birthdays were not celebrated in the residential schools, and they distributed them to the survivors.

We all joined in on a traditional ‘round dance’. A small child clasped my hand tight on one side, a shy woman held my other as we moved sideways in a clockwise circle. Dance over, and smiles all round, performers then took to the stage, recreating Métis jigs before encouraging people to join them, whether young or old. It was joyous and inclusive.

However, the day’s festivities were not over. Saskatoon Tribal Council’s ‘Every Child Matters’ powwow was taking place over the weekend at the city’s SaskTel Centre. I wasn’t sure what to expect. Arriving at the stadium venue, which holds 13,000 people, I watched as cars and coaches disgorged families into the car park, some of them dressed in traditional First Nations clothing.

We arrived in time for the ‘Grand Entry’, with the audience standing as drums and singers started and hundreds of dancers paraded into the arena – young and old, male and female.The audience was welcomed and the afternoon soon filled with different dance competitions. I watched a young man sitting nearby as he keenly observed the performances. Dressed in full regalia, he looked proud, confident in his identity. I thought back to the poignant sight of the teddies and other children’s toys commemorating those who had been lost, their lives unfulfilled.

I had earlier caught a local news programme in whichTribal Chief Mark Arcand had been interviewed about the powwow. He said: “This is an opportunity to celebrate our culture, our language, our songs, our drum. If you don’t know anything about First Nations people, this is a great opportunity to come and learn; to bear witness to a beautiful culture.”

I had witnessed aspects of the remarkable cultures of Saskatchewan, yet there was still much for me to understand.Then I thought back to Darlene Brander’s words on my first day here and realised all that didn’t matter. The reason that I was here was so that I could tell the important story of what I had learnt.

Need to know

When to go

Saskatoon is a four-season destination, but its Indigenous experiences are probably best enjoyed between May and September Batoche National Historic Site is closed between October and April. Summers are hot and sunny with low humidity. Autumn is very pleasant and good for activities. Winters are cold with heavy snow, though lots of outdoor activities are available, such as kicksledding, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

The National Day for Truth and Reconciliation, also known as T&R Day or Orange Shirt Day, falls on 30 September each year.

Getting there & around

There are no direct flights to Saskatoon. Westjet (westjet.com) flies from London Heathrow via Calgary for £648 return; Air Canada (aircanada. com) flies via Toronto for £746 return. The quickest route is around 13 hours. Taxis and Ubers operate in the city, and downtown is very walkable. But renting a car is the easiest way to explore the surrounding areas, as there is very little public transport. The roads are relatively quiet, especially once you’re outside the city, making driving a joy. Wanuskewin is a 20-minute drive from Saskatoon; Duck Lake is around 45 minutes; Batoche National Historic Site is about an hour.

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Saskatoon via Calgary produces 802kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit

Currency & visa

Currency: Canadian dollar (CA$), currently CA$1.72 to the UK£. Visa: UK nationals will require an Electronic Travel Authorization (eTA) for stays of up to six months. This is available online (canada.ca) for £4.

Where to stay

Dakota Dunes Resort Hotel, near Whitecap, is owned by the Whitecap Dakota Nation (who never signed Treaty 6) and lies 20 minutes from Saskatoon. It has a casino, golf course and a full range of activities. It offers Indigenous experiences for an extra fee, including stargazing, traditional games and a dance presentation. It operates a shuttle to Wanuskewin (additional cost). Rooms from £131pn. dakotadunesresort.com

Pêmiska Tourism offers customised programmes that can incorporate a stay in the new lodges or tipis at Fort Carlton. pemiska.ca

Alt Hotel Saskatoon has a useful location by the river near Persephone Theatre, Remai Art Centre and plenty of good restaurants. Rooms from £106pn. germainhotels.com

Further reading & information

wanuskewin.com – Wanuskewin

Heritage Park is open daily year-round. The visitor centre includes displays, a café, shop and activity programme. Check online for an event calendar. parks.canada.ca – The Batoche National Historic Site website has details about its history. Make sure that you visit the river for beautiful views.

The author’s trip was supported by Destination Canada wanderlust.co.uk/sustainable-travel. (destinationcanada.com).

ACHIEVE A NATURAL HIGH IN THE HIMALAYA

When it comes to the Himalaya region, KE Adventure are the original experts. As they celebrate their 40th anniversary, mark the occasion with a Himalayan adventure of your own…

Stretching some 2,500km from east to west, it’s no surprise that the rugged peaks of the Himalaya conceal plenty of unique experiences – and not just for those trekking its most challenging routes. Thankfully, the experts at KE Adventure have been exploring this heartland for 40 years, making them the go-to operator for Himalayan hiking adventures, and more…

When should I go?

To experience the Himalaya at their best, time your visit with the optimal climatic conditions of each region.

That means June to September for Pakistan’s Karakoram Mountains and Ladakh in northern India, while for Nepal and Bhutan visit between February and May or October and December, avoiding the summer monsoon season in between. A trek to Everest Base Camp in Nepal – seen as the region’s most iconic hike – works well pre-monsoon or post-monsoon, but the autumn season offers stable conditions and good visibility.

A Himalayan experience for everyone

Extending the chain of the Himalaya naturally westward to include the

Top of the world (this page; above) Nepal offers some of the most incredible trekking routes across the Himalaya

Karakoram, the range boasts all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks, as well as some of the wildest adventure terrain on the planet. As a result, you’d be excused for thinking that all the walking routes here are threatened by dangers like uncertain underfoot conditions, crevasses and wind-swept passes but that isn’t the case. While some of KE’s adventures, like the K2 Trek in Pakistan or Mera Peak in Nepal do cross challenging terrain, there are also comparatively moderate hikes like India’s Markha Valley and Nanda Devi treks, the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek in Nepal or the Druk Path in Bhutan. KE’s longest Himalaya treks can require

iStock; KE Adventure; Shutterstock

a good level of fitness and hiking experience, but the company’s main focus lies in getting travellers outdoors and away from their normal routine. No matter how you want to travel, KE Adventure has you covered. Way back in 1984, it was set up to allow visitors to experience Pakistan’s most remote mountain landscapes, but it has since expanded its repertoire, offering adventures to suit all ages and abilities – from solo travellers and families to private guided groups.

While you’re there…

There is, of course, much more to the Himalaya region than hiking and mountaineering, with lots of other experiences to fill your days. Spending time with the local people of one of four different countries – Pakistan, India, Nepal and Bhutan – provides the unforgettable opportunity to immerse yourself in a completely different culture. Stroll the streets of the Sherpa villages of the Khumbu and visit centuries-old monasteries with outrageous mountain views. Or, when in Bhutan, take in one of this pocketsized country’s famously colourful

Buddhist festivals, such as the spring tshechu at Talo Gompa above the Punakha Valley. There are incredible sights to be found across the region. Thrillseekers will relish the opportunity to walk on and alongside some of the greatest glaciers in the world including Pakistan’s Baltoro and the Khumbu in Nepal. Maybe the biggest thrill is simply being there, standing in awe of the greatest peaks on Earth.

About the experts

KE Adventure is the ideal travel companion for exploring the Himalaya, with long-established relationships with the best local agencies and most knowledgeable local guides – some of them the sons and daughters of trip leaders it worked with 40 years ago. Including tours in the Himalaya, KE now boasts a worldwide selection of 360 adventure holidays, taking place in 100 countries and at all levels of difficulty. As KE prepares to celebrate its latest milestone, now is the perfect time to find out why the Himalayan region has held on to its mystique and fascination for 40 years (and counting).

THREE TOP HIMALAYAN ADVENTURES

Annapurna & Bandipur

Luxury Lodge Trek

This is your chance to experience the Himalaya of Nepal without the stress of a challenging trek. With comfortable lodges throughout, it includes a leisurely six-day hike through the scenic foothills of the Annapurnas and visits the old Newari town of Bandipur with its traditional architecture and distant views of the 8,000m peaks, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu.

Festivals of Bhutan

Marvels in the mountains (this page; clockwise from top left) Pakistan’s Hunza Valley bathed in autumn sunshine; the Thimphu Tshechu Festival is one of Bhutan’s most spectacular; a KE Adventure group at Everest Base Camp; a decorated truck on the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan; the Tiger’s Nest monastery is an iconic sight in Bhutan

The Kingdom of Bhutan is known for its vibrant religious festivals, one of which you’ll attend on each departure of this classic KE trip. Held across the country at one of the many dzongs (fortress-monasteries), these festivals include ritual dancing, music, blessings and spiritual teachings. Travel to the central region of Bumthang, visit the delightful Phobjika Valley and soak up the atmosphere of Bhutan.

Ultimate Everest Trek

Everest Base Camp is an iconic destination and on this 20-day trek, you’ll hike to Namche Bazaar accompanied by Sherpas and then deviate from the Everest Trail to the lovely lakes at Gokyo, before crossing the tough 5,400m pass of the Cho La to reach base camp.

Looking to the future

Change is afoot as Albania comes to terms with its newfound popularity. But can community-based tourism save its wildlife, towns and shores from the masses?

Words Jessica Reid

Eva Rrasa swirled the grainy remains of my Turkish coffee around a dainty ceramic cup. She then poured out the last of the liquid into a saucer and observed the leftover granules clinging to the sides.

“You’re being followed by a man whose name begins with E,” she told me while holding my gaze. My eyes widened upon hearing the news, and she quickly moved to reassure me. “But don’t worry; he doesn’t want to cause you any harm. He’s just watching you from a distance.”

Together with her husband and children, Eva had welcomed me into her home in the rural village of Babunje, within western Albania’s Divjakë-Karavasta National Park. My visit – and impromptu coffee reading – was part of a community-based travel experience. By staying in the secret corners of Albania, I’d hoped to gain a deeper understanding of its traditional ways of life, while also making genuine connec-

tions and memories with the people who call this beautiful country home. The idea of a mystery man watching me from afar certainly wasn’t part of the plan.

The drive for responsible and local tourism experiences like this comes at an important time for Albania. The Balkan nation might have been closed off from the world during the 46 years it was under communist rule, but that ended in the early 1990s. A record-breaking 10 million people visited the country in 2023 – more than triple its entire population. Today, with the vast majority of visitors flocking to its Adriatic coastline for a budget-friendly beach break, concerns are growing for the impact this will have on coastal environments and communities.

Although Albania is eager to reap the economic rewards of tourism – evident in planned infrastructure projects that include roads, hotels and airports – the prevailing political mood now leans towards shifting the direction of its tourism. The new idea is to encourage travel that’s not all about sun, sand and sea, but about immersing yourself in ⊲

A change for the better (clockwise from right) Tirana’s National History Museum on Skanderbeg Square has a tough but important exhibit on those who suffered under Albania’s communist rule; the city has turned the Pyramid of Tirana – a vainglorious monument to a dictator – into a playful symbol of its future; inside the pyramid are cafés, studios and workshops; Albania’s flag consists of a double-headed eagle; (previous spread) the UNESCO-listed walled city of Berat and its twinkling-white Ottoman houses

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy; Diana Jarvis/Intrepid Travel; Shutterstock

Things change (this page; clockwise from top left) Even Dalmatian pelicans suffered under communist rule, as large swaths of wetlands were drained in the 1950s and ’60s; a viewing tower in Divjakë-Karavasta National Park; the statue of Skanderbeg, who led the fight against the Ottomans in the 15th century, stands in his namesake square; friendly locals in the capital; Tirana’s brightly coloured Ministry of Agriculture is one example of how the city has changed; a feast on Karavasta Lagoon; the capital’s colourful centre; (right page; top–bottom) Tirana’s Namazgah Mosque is the largest in the country; the resilient wildlife of Karavasta Lagoon

the country’s little-visited local communities, protected nature and unique culture and heritage. I was eager to see what early visitors to this new Albania could expect.

INVERTING THE PYRAMID

I began my journey in the mountain-enclosed capital of Tirana not looking to the country’s future, but at its recent past. During Albania’s time under Enver Hoxha’s long dictatorship (1941–85), many of the city’s churches and monasteries were torn down as atheism was forced on the population.

“Even religious names were banned – that’s why you will meet so many Elvises or Eltons. People were named after rock stars instead,” my local guide, Elton Caushi, explained as we arrived in the city centre.

ordered the construction of hundreds of thousands across Albania) have been repurposed into museums, such as the Bunk’Art gallery.The biggest shift came in the centre, where modern Skanderbeg Square is now the buzzing heart of a brave new capital.

But if there is one abiding symbol of this renewal, it’s the Pyramid of Tirana. Formerly a Brutalist monument and museum celebrating the life of Hoxha, for years it was left to rot. Now the 21m-high structure has been restored to a gleaming venue that locals can be proud of – and can even slide down parts of it.

“Religious names were banned… so people were named after rock stars instead”

Born in the 1970s, Elton had lived through the hardships of communism, followed by the civil war and the Kosovo war of the 1990s. But over the past 25 years he had also seen his beloved country rise from the ashes.

Left in the Brutalist wake of communism was a city of unashamedly grey, Soviet-style structures.Yet, as Elton led me through the streets of Tirana’s little-visited Old Town, I began to notice the urban mood quickly shift, as brightly painted buildings and artistic murals took over.

“Tirana was becoming a city of concrete blocks. But our prime minister [Edi Rama] is a former arts professor and he brought colour back to our city,” Elton beamed proudly.

I could see Rama’s creative influence as we explored deeper intoTirana. Newly built high-rises took on unique shapes and styles, and many of the city’s bunkers (Hoxha

“Although Tirana’s historic buildings have suffered, the architecture we have now is quirky and different,” Elton explained as we looked out at the city from the tip of the Pyramid. “We are a nation of big dreamers – we don’t want to be average.”

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR

I had relished getting to know the fast-changing, modern capital, but I was looking forward to my first taste of rural Albania. As soon as I arrived at Divjakë-Karavasta National Park, a 90-minute drive from Tirana, I was immediately welcomed by John and Vlashi, two rescued pelicans who had made themselves at home next to the visitor centre within the park’s pine forests.

Divjakë-Karavasta is one of Europe’s most important habitats for the formerly endangered Dalmatian pelican, as well as being home to a further 260-plus species of bird. With help from the government, conservation efforts here have been ramping up in recent years, with its informative educational ⊲

Albania’s protected natural areas

Divjakë-Karavasta National Park in western Albania has a wildly diverse landscape of wetlands, coastal marshes and pine forests. It’s best known for being home to Karavasta Lagoon, the largest lagoon in Albania and a vital breeding ground for around 2% of the global population of Dalmatian pelicans. There are some 263 bird species within the park in total, with other wildlife including sea turtles, the golden jackal and common otter.

Karaburun-Sazan National Marine Park encompasses a landscape of cliffs, caves and small beaches, and includes both the Karaburun Peninsula and Sazan Island in southern Albania. The marine park is home to flora and fauna such as loggerhead sea turtles, Mediterranean monk seals and seagrass meadows. More than 40 avian species have also been recorded here.

Thethi National Park is a 26.5 sq km site located within the Albanian Alps, near the border with Montenegro. Its diverse landscapes consist of steep mountains and beech forests, providing a habitat to brown bears, wolves and the elusive lynx. At its heart is the Shalë River, which flows into the waters of Komani Lake. It’s a glorious place for hiking.

Vjosa Wild River National Park was declared the first wild river park in Europe in 2023. The 272km free-flowing river is home to more than 1,000 species of animals and plants – some of which are critically threatened, such as the Balkan lynx. It flows from the Pindus Mountains in Greece to Albania’s Adriatic coast and is a popular spot for hiking and rafting.

Alamy; Diana Jarvis/Intrepid Travel

centre raising awareness of the fragile ecosystem, while park rangers now guard its wildlife against poachers. More recently, a wild bird rehabilitation centre was constructed, and it has already treated pelicans, herons and eagles since its opening in 2023.

I was told by Ervin, one of the rangers, that pelicans could be found breeding on an island in the park between January and April. For the rest of the year, they tended to scatter across the region, so wild sightings were not guaranteed during our September visit. Nevertheless, I was still excited for what I’d find on the following morning’s sunrise birdwatching expedition.

After a 5am alarm call, I piled into the park’s new electric buggy, driven by Elton, who veered off-road to follow a bumpy dirt track across the coastal meadows. As daylight began to brighten the grasslands, I spied a wooden viewing platform that overlooked Karavasta Lagoon. Here we set up blankets and chairs for a picnic breakfast and pulled out our binoculars.

Sipping on coffee, I quietly yet gleefully observed egrets, kingfishers and flocks of flying flamingos. In the distance we could make out the shape of two pelicans standing stiffly to attention in the lagoon, the motion-

“In the distance we could make out the shape of two pelicans standing stiffly to attention in the lagoon”

less water surrounding them burnished by the fiery orange sky reflected on the surface.

This magical morning geared me up for a 25km electric-bike ride to explore more of the national park’s woodlands, wetlands and sand dunes. Elton and I were on our way to the Rrasa family home, where we’d been invited to have a home-cooked lunch. Eva, her husband Adriatik and their children warmly greeted us with smiles at their front gate, despite us arriving later than expected.

As soon as I stepped onto their property, my eye was drawn to the stone carvings and sculptures scattering the decorative courtyard. Sheltered by a vine canopy, many depicted figures from the Byzantine empire that once ruled Albania. Some had been collected by Adriatik; most were chiselled by him and his eldest son, Euro, who had studied at the University of Arts inTirana. My mind went back to the artsy capital and I mentally

ticked off one more example of how things had transformed there for the better.

Ready for lunch, I followed the scent of homemade food into the family’s dining room. Eva had been cooking since 8am.

“We have fertile land here, so everything that we need we can grow ourselves or get from our neighbours – our community has a good fraternity,” said Adriatik. I tucked into dishes of fresh chicken, duck, tomato and egg, and perhaps chugged down the wine a little too quickly. Adriatik smiled: “Next time you come, I’ll get the wine off my other neighbour – theirs is even better!”

Post-lunch, Eva put her coffee-reading skills to good use. She had taught herself, though it is a popular enough pastime in Albania, where every cup of coffee is a chance to divine a freshly brewed destiny.When it was time to leave, she pulled a pomegranate off a tree and handed it to me as a parting gift. My future was looking rosier already.

BAY OF PLENTY

Travelling south, our next stop came in the Bay of Vlorë, where I got to see the other side of tourism here. Its picturesque coastline – romantically dubbed the ‘Albanian Riviera’ – was filled with beach-loving ⊲

Diana Jarvis/Intrepid Travel

Life on the lagoon (this page; clockwise from top right) Never doubt the mystical powers of Turkish coffee; watching a local stonemason at work in the communities around Karavasta; one of the more secluded spots near the busy beach town of Vlorë; flamingos hot-foot it through the shallow waters of Karavasta Lagoon; the 15th-century Church of the Holy Trinity watches over the ancient city of Berat; a stonemason’s work is never done; keeping an eye on Karavasta, whose natural islands provide the perfect pelican breeding ground; (left page) the lagoon’s wooden viewing platforms offer a peaceful spot to watch the sun rise

Phalanxes of colourful sunbeds and parasols massed on the shoreline. And as we drove along the bypass above the city of Vlorë, I saw how the hotel tower blocks along the coast now obstructed the bay views of the old homes that lay helplessly in their shadow.

“We haven’t done everything right,” Elton sighed. He told me about the controversial airport being built near Vlorë, set to open in 2025. Albania is keen to have more visitors, though such things are often at the expense of attracting responsible tourists that care for the environment. I wasn’t sure this would help.

The bay is home to the National Marine Park of Karaburun-Sazan, which I learned more about down at the waterfront’s visitor centre, an important facility for educating travellers about the precious ecosystem here.

I learnt that the waters hide a great variety of species and habitats: coral, seagrass beds, three species of sea turtle, common dolphins and even the rare Mediterranean monk seal.

It was then time to head into the bay to explore Karaburun Peninsula for myself on a boat tour.The highlight was a trip to the mystical Haxhi Ali cave, a huge sea grotto coated in stalactites that conceals azure waters so dazzling that I couldn’t resist diving in.

There’s no doubt that Vlorë’s natural beauty is staggering, but its ancient history is perhaps more so.The archaeological park of Orikum sits in the south-west corner of the bay. Located within an active military base, Elton managed to gain us access to the little-visited ruins that were a strategic port for Albania’s ruling empires across millennia.

The site was first developed by the Greeks in the 5th century BC, though it was later captured by Julius Caesar in 48 BC, during the Roman civil war, as he sought to defeat Pompey and take the republic in hand.

Wandering through this history was thrilling, and I imagined a time when the fountains, churches and theatres – carved from local limestone rock – stood in place of these ruins. In the meantime, excavation work on the site continues, unveiling more stories and mysteries surrounding Albania’s history. As golden hour approached, Elton led me on a short stomp up the mountainside, as we followed a stoney path and then veered off track through the long grass and groves of oak trees. Soon, the homestead of shepherd Sofo and his wife, Dhurata, appeared in a clearing.

Alamy; Diana Jarvis/Intrepid Travel

Sun, sand and churches (clockwise from top left) The fortified remains of Berat and its white-walled Ottoman houses – which have gifted the city the nickname ‘Town of a Thousand Windows’; boats wait to drift into Haxhi Ali, a karst sea cave that conceals gloriously azure waters within; coastal retreats such as the beaches and high-rise hotels of Vlorë are what the bulk of Albania’s 10 million visitors a year currently come for; sampling home-cooked treats is a constant perk of spending time with locals like Dhurata; Berat is home to several medieval churches that predate even Ottoman rule here

Sofo encouraged us to join him as he put to bed his free-ranging goats before it got dark.

While he and his dog herded the animals into their pen for the night, I watched from the hillside with a glass of homemade cinnamon-and-honey-infused raki (brandy) in hand. In the distance, the Bay of Vlorë and the ghost village of Tragjas – bombed and abandoned during the SecondWorldWar –were illuminated by the fluorescent orange sunset. I wasn’t sure if it was the extraordinary landscape, the soothing sound of jingling goat bells or the warmth of the raki in my throat, but it was in this moment that I knew I was falling for Albania’s charms.

I returned to the farmhouse, where Sofo pulled out a wooden flute and serenaded us with a tuneful melody. Dhurata produced a sweet fried pastry and placed it in my hand.

“It’s called petulla. I’ve made them in celebration of my niece being born in Germany. It’s an Albanian tradition,” she told me.

I was then directed to take a seat at the table as a mouthwatering supper was served. Consisting of stove-cooked burek bread (to be torn apart with our hands – “It’s disrespectful to cut with a knife,” I was told), fresh ricotta cheese and herb-infused potatoes, I was fascinated by the traditional techniques still being used to store and cook this produce.

“Byzantine chapels were filled with frescoes depicting religious figures”

I felt honoured that the couple not only shared their food, but gave me a glimpse of a more traditional Albanian lifestyle. Sure, the Vlorë coastline looks nice in a photo, but it was interacting with people like Sofo and Dhurata that stuck in my mind.

A WINDOW ON THE WORLD

The final stop on my trip was the historic centre of Berat.This fortified hilltop town, surrounded by the Tomorr Mountains, has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2008.This is largely due to the presence of a labyrinth of white-stone Ottoman architecture that winds through the city’s Mangalem Quarter and a 13th-century castle, known as Kala. But its origins are said to date back much further that its medieval fortifications.

Berat was founded as the ancient Greek polis of Antipatreia in 314 BC by Cassander, who was soon to be crowned the king of Macedon.There’s also evidence of Illyrian, Roman and Byzantine occupation sprinkled throughout the historic city, making Berat a fascinating crossroads of cultures and faiths.

Elton gave me a whistle-stop walking tour of the town, providing a superb overview of its history. Beginning from our hilltop accommodation – fittingly named Berat

Castle Hotel – we weaved our way down the cobbled, sloping streets, stopping to admire the old town’s treasured landmarks. Its Byzantine chapels were filled with frescoes depicting religious figures, from John the Baptist to Saint Nicolas. During Albania’s lengthy period under Ottoman rule, several mosques were also constructed here. Sadly, only ruins now remain of the 15th-century Red Mosque, the oldest in Berat, which was designated a Cultural Monument of Albania in 1961.

Although the city is one of the country’s busier visitor spots, I was delighted to still see signs of local life and culture on its streets.

“The stone steps outside front doors are called prags, and locals would sit on them with a cup of coffee or raki and socialise with their neighbours,” Elton told me.“Older residents still do it, but usually in the mornings or evenings, when there are fewer tourists.”

When we finally reached the valley floor and stood alongside the ancient Osum River, I glanced back up to admire the architectural spectacle that gave Berat its nickname:‘Town of aThousandWindows’. It seemed a fitting symbol for a trip where instead of peering in from the outside, I’d been welcomed in and shown a more traditional glimpse of Albanian life. It certainly beat a day at the beach.

A few steps away, Elton gazed on quietly and it suddenly occurred to me: had he been the mysterious Mr ‘E’ of Eva’s prediction all along? I had taken in the length and breadth of Albania’s cultural heritage and natural wonders in the company of a kind, watchful stranger. If anything, it proved one indefatigable truth of life in Albania: never doubt the wisdom of the coffee granules.

Need to know

When to go

Albania is very busy in the summer (Jul–Aug), so travel in the shoulder and off season is highly encouraged. The author arrived in mid-September, when it roughly averaged 25°C during the day.

Getting there

Several airlines fly direct to Albania’s capital from the UK. Wizz Air (wizzair.com) offers direct flights from London Luton to Tirana, costing from £30 return and taking around three hours.

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Tirana produces 232kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/ sustainable-travel.

Currency & visa

Currency: Albanian Lek (ALL), currently around ALL121 to the UK£. Euros (€) are widely used and are easier to exchange. Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days.

Where to stay

Capital Tirana Hotel (capitaltiranahotel.com; from £60pn) is handy for access to the capital’s Old Town. Try Sofo’s (@bujtina_sofraevjeter_tragjas) for a unique stay in a stone-built hut near Tragjas. Berat Castle Hotel (beratcastlehotel.com; from £34pn) is a lovely spot in the city’s UNESCO-listed Old Town.

The trip

The author travelled with Intrepid Travel (intrepidtravel.com) on part of its nine-day Albania Expedition, curated in partnership with the MEET Network*. The tour starts from £1,255pp, including eight nights’ accommodation, selected meals, activities and transport.

*The Mediterranean Experience of Eco Tourism (MEET) is a network of protected areas in the Mediterranean that works with tour operators to create low-impact eco-experiences that support conservation and local communities. meetnetwork.org

Tanzania

Montenegro

Divjakë-Karavasta National Park

Karaburun-Sazan National Marine Park

Thethi National Park

Starting a new chapter

As one of Georgia’s most important Indigenous sites bids for national park status, it’s time to explore a state that is endeavouring to finally tell the stories of those left out of its history books

Words Jacqui Agate

Trimmed with sweetgum trees and wrapped in velvety grass, the land gently rose and fell all around me as I strolled. Up ahead, a paved path led to a neat, conical mound that spiked towards the sky. Behind me, a tour group hummed and chattered.

“For me, when I come here, it’s like being at grandma’s house,” saidTracie Revis, who was showing me across the swollen terrain of Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park. “Everything changed when I smelled a root here that we still use in our traditional medicines today. I thought: ‘What would it look like to live back in the homeland?’”

The site – which unfolds in a series of sacred mounds – holds deep-rooted significance as the ancestral homelands of the Indigenous Muscogee (Creek) Nation, the fourth-largest Tribe in the US, of which Tracie is a member. She is also the director of advocacy at the Ocmulgee National Park and Preserve Initiative, an organisation that is working to both expand the footprint of the site and have it designated as America’s newest national park.

Ocmulgee Mounds is a worthy candidate for having its status elevated. Evidence uncovered here suggests that humans have inhabited this land for more than 12,000 years – this expands to 17,000 years in the wider region of Central Georgia. Indeed, the spoils of the largest archaeological dig in American history, which took place here in the 1930s, are still on display at the site’s visitor centre, where Tracie had begun our tour just an hour earlier.

“The dig uncovered 2.5 million artefacts and the site became an archaeological crown jewel,” she had explained as we’d wandered past spear points and pottery, observing the swirling stamps that are particular to the Indigenous Peoples of this region.

The mounds had been constructed somewhere between 900 and 1100 AD, during the Mississippian Period, and have served as everything from burial sites to homes for village leaders. The modern Muscogee Peoples are the descendants of these Mississippian mound builders.

“This was the capital city for us – and one of the largest mound complexes in the state,”Tracie said. “But there were Tribal

RECKONING WITH THE PAST

After leaving the earth lodge,Tracie led me up a wooden stairway to the top of a soaring domiciliary mound, which had served as a home forTribal Chiefs. From this lofty perch the beauty of the land showed itself. A skirt of corn-yellow wildflowers inched towards upland forest and trails beat into an ocean of green.There are 13km of hiking routes within the park, snaking into woodland and wetland alive with herons, egrets and alligators.

But the natural and cultural significance of these lands has not always been appreciated, beginning with the removal of its original inhabitants. European contact occurred as early as the 16th century, when Spanish

“The natural and cultural significance of these lands has not always been appreciated”

towns all up and down the Ocmulgee River and they were vibrant, organised civilisations.You have to use your mind’s eye and imagine what was really here.”

explorer Hernando de Soto forged into what is now Georgia’s interior. Indigenous populations were ravaged by unfamiliar diseases, such as measles and smallpox, and formerly distinct tribes banded together for survival.

Over the centuries that followed, the resulting Muscogee confederacy – whose home territories originally swept across Georgia, Florida, South Carolina and Alabama – was forced westward by colonial settlement. And when President Andrew Jackson’s Indian Removal Act was signed into law in 1830, Georgia’s original inhabitants embarked upon the gruelling (and for many, deadly) Trail of Tears, which led them to so-called ‘Indian Territory’: Oklahoma, the modernday location of the Muscogee Nation.

We followed the path up to the mound on the horizon – which Tracie explained was a reconstructed Mississippian-era earth lodge – and I ducked through a doorway marked by fat wooden beams.This was whereTribal Council meetings would have been held, Tracie explained. Light escaped from a single smoke hole in the timbered roof and I spied a bold effigy of an eagle that had been sculpted into the ground. Although the structure was created in the 1930s, when the Historical Park was established, the clay floor was the original one that had been built here. ⊲

Alamy; courtesy of Explore Georgia

Digging through history (left page) Hopes are high that Ocmulgee Mounds could become Georgia’s first national park, with the expectation being that it will  also be run in tandem with the Muscogee Nation, who were forced off these lands nearly 200 years ago; (this page; left to right) the visitor centre for Ocmulgee Mounds contains artefacts that were excavated in the 1930s on what is still the largest dig in American history – it lasted three years and involved 800 workers; the wooden steps to the domiciliary mound lead to a viewpoint that lets you appreciate just how beautiful Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park is

Physical scars are still evident at the Ocmulgee Mounds site too. In the 1840s, a railroad was built, gouging a great scar across the land and bisecting a burial mound.The train still runs along it to this day.

“We hear it all the time,”Tracie said, gazing at the tracks. “It’s a reminder of the desecration of the land and removal of our Peoples.”

She sees the site’s pending national park status as a chance for Indigenous Peoples to reconnect with their homelands and educate local communities. A Special Resource Study (SRS) currently sits with Congress, and it’s hoped that legislation will land in early 2024, eventually expanding the boundaries of the site further along the Ocmulgee River Corridor and also encompassing the Bond Swamp NationalWildlife Refuge. It’ll also be the first time, explained Tracie, that a removed Indigenous Tribe will co-manage a park.

“We’re asking to come back and be a part of this… to tell stories from our perspective”

“It’s a beautiful and historical land –and we need to protect it,” Tracie said. “We’re asking to come back and be a part of this… to tell stories from our perspective and to educate and grow this community that was founded on our land.We hope to be an example for how other Tribes and non-Tribal entities can work together in ways that benefit the entire community.”

And that goes beyond the proposed national park site, too.The city of Macon –the closest urban settlement to the mound site – was laid out in the 1820s, and efforts

are now being made to honour the region’s Indigenous Peoples here.

“You can’t tell the story of Macon without the story of the Tribes,”Tracie had told me as we parted. And with her words ringing in my ears, I drove into the urban buzz, passing through a downtown area thick with independent shops and live music venues.

The Muscogee Nation Flag, which depicts a wheat sheaf and a plough, now flies above Macon’s City Hall, and there are plans to eventually have street names listed in both English and Muscogee.

There are cultural expressions of the region’s Indigenous heritage, too. I ducked inside the McEachern Art Center, where the walls were papered with striking works by Indigenous artists, such as painter and printmaker Randy Kemp (Muscogee/Choctaw/ Euchee). I also toured the original Capricorn Records studio building, best known for

Making stories (clockwise from top) The city of Macon is best known for its musical history, having been the birthplace of Little Richard and the legendary recording studio Capricorn Records, though its Indigenous heritage is increasingly prominent; Vaughnette Goode-Walker’s tours show you a side to Savannah that is absent from the history books; a monument to railway magnate William Gordon was built over the burial site of Yamacraw Chief Tomochichi in the late 1800s; Atlanta’s Freedom Road memorial honours the leading figures of America’s Civil Rights Movement; gazing over the salt marsh of Sapelo Island

being the birthplace of the music genre southern rock. It has nurtured artists such as the Allman Brothers Band and Lynyrd Skynyrd – although when I visited, it was gearing up for sessions with a series of Muscogee artists.

TELLING THE RIGHT TALE

Yet while Macon and the Ocmulgee Mounds site are currently in the spotlight, it’s not the only place where history is being retold and reclaimed in Georgia. I struck south-east and landed in Savannah, the ‘Hostess City of the South’, which unfolds in a matrix of live-oakstudded squares and cobbled streets.Tracie had told me that the Muscogee Peoples once lived in this area too, though whispers of any Indigenous presence are now hard to find.

A pyramid of stones at the centre of Wright Square once marked the burial place of

Yamacraw Chief Tomochichi; however, a monument to railroad magnateWilliam Gordon was built on top of the plot back in 1883, desecrating the Chief’s gravesite. Now there’s a hulking granite memorial to the Chief in the corner of the square instead, which guide and historian Vaughnette Goode-Walker pointed out. She was leading me through the city on her Footprints of Savannah Walking Tour, which follows the “forgotten history footpaths of the city”.

“General Oglethorpe [founder of the Georgia colony] laid this out,” she said of the square. “He came in 1733 and he brought enslaved people to help take down the forests that he found here and to help remove the Native Americans who lived along these bluffs. It became the genesis for what we know as urban slavery here in Savannah. ⊲

More historical sites in Georgia

Wanderer Memory Trail, Jekyll Island

One of the last known slave ships to dock in the US arrived at Jekyll Island in 1858, around 50 years after the transatlantic slave trade was outlawed here. It carried some 400 enslaved Africans in its belly; now their descendants live across Georgia’s barrier islands and beyond. A trail was installed in 2018 to memorialise their plight, with exhibits including historical panels and audio stops laid out along the shoreline. These tell the story of Umwalla, an African child abducted into a life of slavery.

Etowah Indian Mounds

State Historic Site, Cartersville

Run by the Georgia State Parks service, this Indigenous site protects a number of sacred earthen mounds that were home to a community thought to have flourished between 1000 and 1550 AD. Its story is told across information panels and an artefact-packed museum, plus there is also a nature trail that fringes the Etowah River.

Martin Luther King Jr

National Historical Park, Atlanta

Martin Luther King Jr – one of the most iconic leaders of the US Civil Rights Movement – was born in Atlanta, where several important sites now honour his story under the banner of a single National Historical Park. These include King’s preserved birth home (currently undergoing renovations) and the Ebenezer Baptist Church, where the activist and minister was baptised. You can also visit the King Center, which includes his burial site and many poignant exhibits.

Jacqui Agate; Shutterstock

Keeping traditions alive (this page; clockwise from top left) Listening to Gullah Geechee folk singers is one highlight of Sapelo Island’s Culture Day; the island’s former chocolate plantation was built from a material known as tabby, a key ingredient of which is oyster shells; Sapelo’s inhabitants are keeping alive traditional skills such as weaving sweetgrass baskets; the island’s 19th-century lighthouse served as a guide for ships headed to and from the Port of Darien; (right page; left to right) Sapelo’s cultural centre is a repository for Gullah Geechee traditions; Tracie Revis is working to have Ocmulgee Mounds recognised as a national park

This tour is dedicated to all those ancestors who made that Middle Passage journey and landed on these shores.”

She had begun with a buttery rendition of ‘Oh, Freedom’, a song bound up with the Civil Rights Movement, before leading me across the city, pausing before landmarks such as the Chatham County Courthouse, which squats at the edge of the elegant Historic District. Most visitors would walk right past this otherwise unremarkable civic building, but Vaughnette explained how enslaved Africans had been sold at this site at monthly auctions. Her tour focuses on the Savannah histories that aren’t etched into plaques or regaled on historical markers, and she laid down a stirring blueprint of the city.

Arrowing south to Georgia’s feathered coast, I found more untold histories intrinsically bound up with the land. A windswept ferry ride from Meridian decanted me onto Sapelo, a remote barrier island hemmed with white sand and cobwebbed in Spanish moss.

The island is now home to fewer than 50 inhabitants. Among these is tour guide Peter Lukken of Explore Sapelo, who met me at the dock. Even having retired to the island, he still considers himself to be a ‘newcomer’ here.

Peter drove us along dirt roads until we spotted piles of discarded shells (known as shell middens) that serve as reminders of Sapelo’s earliest inhabitants.We pushed on past the ruins of an old chocolate plantation made from tabby (a mix of oyster shells, lime and sand) and watched for wild cattle amid the palmettos. But I was eager to discover more about the island’s current inhabitants.

Sapelo is the home of a Gullah Geechee community, descendants of enslavedWest Africans who were stolen from their homelands and brought to these shores by planter Thomas Spalding in 1802. I met descendant Nikki Williams in the small enclave of Hog Hammock, a community born after emancipation. Its population has dwindled alongside the growing scarcity of job opportunities, but Nikki told that me the island has remained a cultural stronghold, with enduring skills such as the weaving of sweetgrass baskets and production of cast nets still being practiced.

“We have a master basket weaver here and she’s passing the craft on to more generations. And our Culture Day just returned for the first time since the pandemic, where we have vendors of Gullah Geechee heritage as well as ring shouting (a religious ritual) and traditional foods like smoked mullet.We also offer a tour of the island.”

But still, Sapelo faces challenges: a new zoning ordinance was recently passed, allowing for the building of larger homes and potentially spiking property taxes. Descendants say this poses a threat to the island’s physical and cultural fabric.

“We love that people love our island.We want you to come; we want you to see the culture, the nature, the beauty. But we don’t want you to change it. Our culture is directly tied to our land.”

Nikki’s words stayed with me as I rode the ferry back to the mainland, Sapelo’s shores evaporating into the distance. Endless stories are bound to this slice of land called Georgia. The truth is in the retelling.

Need to know

When to go

Plump for spring or autumn, when the summer heat has lessened but plenty of sunshine remains. Time your visit to Sapelo Island for Culture Day, which occurs in late October.

Getting there & around

There are regular direct flights from London Heathrow to Atlanta, Georgia, with British Airways (ba.com) and Delta (delta.com) for around £745 return; these take about ten hours. It’s easier to get around Georgia by car All the major car-rental agencies are at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, although booking ahead is advised.

Ferries, operated by the Georgia Department of Natural Resources, run between Sapelo and Meridian three times daily, except on Sundays when they only run twice. Be sure to check the ferry schedule ahead of time (ugami.uga.edu/ferry).

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Atlanta produces 713kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust. co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Sapelo Island

You must be booked on a guided tour to visit Sapelo Island – or have an invite from a resident. Try booking with either Explore Sapelo (sapelo.org) or Sapelo Island Tours (toursapelo.com).

The author travelled with the support of Explore Georgia (exploregeorgia.org).

Alamy; Jacqui Agate; Shutterstock

Immerse yourself in the wild and wonderful

ISLE OF MAN

With barely half of the island inhabited by humans, nature has taken over the Isle of Man, making it easy to explore the outdoors

There’s nowhere quite like the Isle of Man. It has beaches to rival Cornwall, Scottishstyle glens and wild moors that put even Yorkshire to shame. Indeed, this self-governing island, halfway between England and Ireland, was the first ‘entire nation’ to be designated a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 2016. Now visitors can appreciate every inch of its pristine wilderness.

Isle of Man is full of… Al-fresco wellness

Wellness isn’t a ‘trend’ on the Isle of Man, it’s a way of life. The island is perpetually cleansed by fresh ocean air and has an abundance of space for getting active. It’s even something of a

trendsetter. During the First World War, Joseph Pilates was interred at a camp here, where he trained fellow inmates in his ‘Contrology’ regime. Classes in what we now call Pilates can be found across the island (and world!).

Speaking of famous names, cyclist Mark Cavendish is a native son. It was here on the island that he honed his

Wild isle (this page; top to bottom) If you only walk one trail on the Isle of Man, make it the iconic Raad ny Foillan; enjoy a dose of ‘green therapy’ in one of the island’s scenic glens

craft on the scenic roads. As such, there are plenty of opportunities to get out on two wheels, including a wealth of mountain-bike trails. Try the gruelling Witches Barrel or riding Archallagan, the Forest of a Thousand Trails. Wild swimmers are spoilt for choice too, thanks to the 160km coastline. Golden shores like Port Erin or Laxey offer great jumping-in points; you can even splash alongside the walls of mighty Peel Castle at Fenella Beach. Alternatively, try hiking into one of the island’s leafy glens to dip in refreshing, forest-hugged oases or shower in waterfalls. A trip to Kirk Michael allows you to swim beneath Spooyt Vane falls, at the end of mossy Glen Mooar. Or take the Manx Electric Railway to fairytale-like Ballaglass Glen to slide into a secretive pool undisturbed.

Wild walks

The Isle of Man is compact – just 52km by 22km at its widest points – but it packs in a wealth of walking routes. This makes it a great place to explore on two feet, albeit using the island’s excellent buses and vintage railways to ferry you to trailheads.

The biggest hiking challenge is the Raad ny Foillan (the ‘Way of the Gull’), a 160km path that wraps the coast, taking in the craggy south-west, the low-lying north, island capital Douglas’ lively promenade and everything in between. You could walk it in one go, staying at seaside guesthouses en route. Or if you’d prefer to break it up into sections, the 11km stretch from Port St Mary to Port Erin, via plunging cliffs, bobbing seals and fine views of the Calf of Man, is unmissable.

For a different perspective, try the Isle of Man’s new Summit Walks. Collectively, these eight routes explore 25 island highs (over 300m). Options include the Five Peaks Challenge, which runs between the town of Ramsey and 610m Snaefell, the island’s loftiest point – also accessible via a mountain railway. Or maybe attempt the gentle ascent up Slieau Whallian (334m), a hill with great views over Peel Castle and a history of witchcraft.

If you fancy something a little more leisurely, there are lots of lovely strolls. Try the Baldwin Bluebell Walk (4km) at romantically remote St Luke’s Church, or amble to the lighthouse at the island’s south-eastern tip to gaze out from the Langness Peninsula.

Rich nature

As you’d expect from a UNESCO Biosphere that incorporates an entire island, you can see plenty of examples of sustainable development in action. Here, communities and conservationists have to work together.

Proof of this lies in the array of wildlife, ranging from visiting seabirds and basking sharks to resident seals, 500-plus wild wallabies and the

Epic encounters with nature (this page; clockwise from top left) Niarbyl Bay is one of the Isle of Man’s premier dark-sky spots; the island packs a wealth of walking trails into its tiny size; spot dolphins off the coastline; the Isle of Man’s fringes are also ideal for wild sea swimming; wallabies are just one surprising species found here

native Manx Loaghtan sheep – their immense horns are quite something. There are also many different kinds of wild encounter. For instance, trails amid the sand dunes at Ayres National Nature Reserve offer ample chance to spy birds and rare plants, while the Scarlett Nature Discovery Centre and Trail explores wonderfully weird rock formations and rampant wildflowers.

One of the best ways to spot wildlife here is to take to the seas. Boat trips reveal the island’s spectacular geology and offer the opportunity to spy seals, whales and dolphins. The west coast is especially good for birders, with the puffin colony near Peel best visited from March to August. Trips out to the Calf of Man, a 242-hectare reserve and bird observatory, are also a treat.

At night, the adventure doesn’t stop. The Isle of Man has 26 official Dark Sky Discovery sites where distant galaxies can be seen with the naked eye. Try Fort Island, near Castletown, and Port Soderick (only ten minutes outside Douglas) for an out-of-this-world finale.

Visit Isle of Man

Capitalising on

Culture

As cities in Estonia, Austria and Norway gear up for their year in the spotlight as European Capitals of Culture, we look at why they offer hope to us all

Words Emma Thomson

When Hegert Leidsalu, of the Tartu City Government office, woke up on a cold and snowy Wednesday morning, he’d only expected to be doing a little driving. Sixty minutes later, I, a complete stranger, was massaging ash into his pert naked buttocks, as if basting him for the oven. Were we mortified? Most definitely. But at least we could blame our pinkening cheeks on the heat as we sweated politely inside a traditional smoke sauna in Haanja.

This tiny village falls under one of 19 municipalities in southern Estonia that join the city of Tartu in celebrating its European Capital of Culture title in 2024. Nor are they alone. This year, the accolade is also being shared with two other cities: Bad Ischl in Austria and Bodø in northern Norway.

Draw lines between these three places and you have an almost perfect triangle spanning the length and breadth of Europe.Thousands of kilometres separate them, and yet, often unknowingly, common threads and themes tie them together. For example, none of

“In a sauna, everyone is naked – the same. It’s an equaliser. Whether you’re the mayor or a citizen, you come together”

the cities have kept the title for themselves. Instead, they’ve all included the surrounding towns and villages in sharing the ripples of change that are often brought about by the interest that the celebrations typically bring.

I spent three weeks visiting each one for their opening ceremony to see what lies in store for travellers, and what titles like this actually hope to achieve. If the aim of the European Commission grant is about seeing people and places in a new light, then basting Hegert’s bum had been an illuminating start.

GETTING ALL STEAMED UP

One inarguable thread connecting these three destinations is their sauna culture. In the heart of the Austrian town of Bad Ischl,

I found myself in the thermal spa Eurothermen, where I was joined by Marcus, a local man aiming to alleviate his arthritis.

“The sauna ceremony is deep in our culture,” he told me as a hefty gentleman swirled a towel around our heads, wafting blasts of hot air in our faces.

“Us Brits tend to err on the shy side of nudity,” I replied, flinching with the heat.

“No, no.You need to be completely naked to get everything out,” he rebuked, and I felt that there was a deeper meaning to his words, perhaps about the layers that we all wear.

Bad Ischl, south-east of Salzburg, is part of Austria’s Salzkammergut, a lake-studded ‘salt domain’ as seductive as anything in The Sound of Music . This spans the regions of Salzburg, Upper Austria and Steiermark, and was the private property of the Habsburgs for 650 years. Back then, nobody was allowed to enter or leave without a special permit or passport, and the dynasty used the nearby 7,000-year-old salt mine (the world’s oldest) at Hallstatt as their personal piggy bank. Because salt was the only means of preserving food back

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy; Emma Thomson

then, this ‘white gold’ lined the Habsburg coffers until their demise in 1918.

The family was impossibly rich but had been plagued by misfortune. Sophie, the wife of Archduke Franz Karl Joseph, had suffered several miscarriages. So, when the desperate Archduke was told by doctors looking after the miners that inhaling the region’s salts was healing, he sent his wife to bathe in its waters. Whether it had an effect or not, she gave birth to the first of four sons, Franz Joseph, in 1830. He was nicknamed the ‘Salt Prince’, and Bad Ischl’s spa reputation was born.

Franz Joseph and his wife, Elizabeth, also later took up regular summer residence in Bad Ischl, at the Kaiservilla. Their influence attracted the great musicians, composers and artists of the day, transforming a rural town into a flamboyant beauty and noted spa escape. It’s this history that the artist Simone Barlian drew on when building Plateau Blo, a floating sauna that will rove around Lake Traunsee – Austria’s deepest – during the year-long Capital of Culture celebrations.

“Lakes link the region, so I wanted both a physical and metaphorical platform where the public could share open dialogue,” she said while standing next to the pewtercoloured water. “In a sauna, everyone is naked – the same. It’s an equaliser. And whether you’re the mayor or a citizen, you can come together and discuss the future.”

The idea of sauna as a meeting place had also been drilled into me at the UNESCO-listed smoke sauna that I’d shared with

Hegert in Estonia. There, on Mooska Farm, owner Eda Veeroja had told me: “In a sauna, the conscious world of understanding ends and the in-between world begins.” Immediately afterwards, she’d opened the door of the alder-wood cabin to reveal its innards, shadowed with soot, where I would be scrubbed with salt, ash and a gloop of local honey before being patted with birch branches.

“Here, it’s possible to come into contact with our ancestors and their wisdom,” Eda whispered. “They are a liminal space between the forest and the farmhouse –a place for healing, magic and communication. The country grannies and grandpas are bearers of these Indigenous ways of life.”

FROM ANCESTORS TO ALLIUMS

A day after my Estonian smoke sauna, I found myself tracing the frozen outline of nearby Lake Peipus, 40km from Tartu, on the border with Russia. Huddled along its shoreline are the communities of Varnja, Kasepää and Kolkja, whose clapboard houses, painted in weathered shades of green and yellow, are home to the Old Believers. These are the descendants of Orthodox Christians exiled from Russia in the 1600s after the Tsar unified the church and instilled traditions such as switching from two to three fingers when making the sign of the cross.The Old Believers refused to change, so were cast out.

In the 1930s, some 10,000 lived in Estonia; today, around 600 call these three villages home. They mostly keep to

In hot water (clockwise from far left) Hallstatt is such a beautiful town that China made an exact replica of it in Luoyang; Bad Ischl’s wealth of historical architecture comes from when this tiny spa town was a summer residence of the Habsburgs; sauna culture unites all of this year’s European Capitals of Culture; one of the tunnels that the prisoners of Austria’s Ebensee Concentration Camp were forced to dig; bundles of birch, known as vihta, are used to pat the bodies of visitors to Estonia’s Mooska Farm sauna; (previous spread) Tartu’s Town Hall Square readies for the celebrations to come

themselves, except when selling onions. These they cultivate in half-a-metre-high beds to be especially pungent and delicious.

“At the end of August and in early September, these lanes are lined with stalls selling their onions,” said my guide, Kristiina Tammets, as we drove towards the just-refurbished Museum of Old Believers in Kolkja.

Historically, these exiles lived side by side with Baltic Germans and rural Estonians.To honour this heritage, a special ‘Onion Route’ has been created to introduce visitors to the area’s traditional foods, churches, farms and crafts, as well as the local castle, Alatskivi, which was modelled on the UK’s Balmoral.

Lilli Tarakanov, manager of the Kolkja museum, met us at her workplace just as the snow started flurrying. She offered us homemade lumps of spice-infused sugar to stow in our cheeks as we sipped the unsweetened tea that she dispensed from a samovar. Between sips, I asked her whether the culture of the Old Believers was in danger of being lost, given how few were left. She shook her head knowingly.

“The people who grew up here have already received our traditions, such as religious classes in school and learning the old Russian alphabet,” she told me.

The museum rooms were laid out like a home and were minimalist to look at, yet every sofa and table was covered in lace.

“For us, it’s important that when you step in the house, it feels just washed – very white,” Lilli said, “We don’t have a traditional national costume, but embroidering with lace gives us our own style.”

Far more flamboyantly dressed are Estonia’s Indigenous Seto people, famed for their folk-style red embroidery, chunky silver necklaces and UNESCO-listed polyphonic ‘leelo’ singing. In Tartu, I met Setomaa guide Helen Külvik, who explained how things had changed.

“Nowadays our Seto heritage is something to be proud of, but it hasn’t always been so,” she told me. “Until recently, it was considered shameful to be Seto, but in the last 20 years this has turned around. Now people are looking for their Seto roots.”

In some ways, the story of the Seto is similar to that of Norway’s Sámi, in that there are attempts now being made to reintegrate both their cultures. In the city of Bodø, I sat in on a rehearsal of Gïedtine (Who Owns theWind?), a Sámi-language play that touches on the true story of the illegal Fosen wind farms that were built on their reindeer pastures.

Relations between the Sámi, the Indigenous Peoples of Sápmi (Lapland) – a region spanning the northern parts of Norway, Sweden and Finland – and the Norwegians hasn’t always been easy. For over a century, up until the 1960s, Sámi language and dress were forbidden in Norway under the government’s ‘Norwegianization’ programme.

“I have seen how it has affected my mother, my grandmother, all my friends and their families. It’s a story that is very hard.You feel in 2024 that we should be able to take space, have rights, and that it should be the norm,” said Emma Rustad, an actor in Gïedtine.

It would’ve been easy to gloss over these tensions; instead, the Capital of Culture win has been used as a banner that everyone can

The mysteries of southern Estonia (left–right) Women in traditional Estonian dress prepare for Tartu’s opening ceremony as a Capital of Culture – though the title extends far beyond the city’s fringes and takes in the surrounding southern region, including villages of Old Believers and communities of Indigenous Seto people; taking a dip in the freezing waters of Tartu’s Anne Canal in the winter might seem like an act of madness, but this is just one of a number of platforms used by the local ‘penguins’ (aka winter swimmers) of the city. Those who don’t fancy its frigid waters are gladly excused

Emma Thomson

“Until the 1960s, Sámi language and dress were forbidden in Norway by the government”

gather under.The opening week was deliberately chosen to coincide with ‘Sámi Week’, a yearly festival celebrating this heritage.

“Traditionally, Bodø forgot Sámi culture; now we’re melting together,” explained Kristoffer Dolmen, senior curator at Bodø’s Nordland Museum, which hosts a year-long exhibition of Sámi artefacts.

The finale of Bodø’s opening ceremony was performed by Sámi activist Ella Marie, who sang a hauntingly beautiful joik (a traditional form of Sámi song). As it drew to a close, she opened her coat to reveal the words ‘This is Sami Land’ sewn into the lining. It was a powerful moment.

A DIFFICULT PAST

In Estonia,Tartu’s Old Town architecture brought to my mind images of peach-andpink iced cupcakes framed with frosting.

“Tartu is seen as a safe, cute uni town,” said Kalle Paas, illustrator, designer and part of the originalTartu 2024 bidding team. Estonia’s second-biggest city is the oldest in the Baltic states. It published the country’s first newspaper, has green spaces larger than NewYork’s Central Park, and is home to a university established in 1632 that spawned Karl Ernst von Baer, the man who discovered the female egg, and Professor Nikolai Pirogov, who pioneered the use of anaesthesia in surgery. If nothing else, we should all be particularly thankful for the latter.

For the city’s Capital of Culture 2024 tagline, it decided on the ‘Arts of Survival’ as a theme – a stark contrast to its cutesy appearance. It was summed up by local philosopher Valdur Mikita as ‘resilience’, in reference to the threat posed by Russia both today and in the country’s recent past.

“What the Russians are doing to Ukraine, they did to us, Latvia and Lithuania,” said a concerned Martin Jaigma, manager of the KGB Cells Museum in the centre of Tartu.

Kalle and I met him at the bottom of a short flight of stairs in a townhouse basement. In 1940, when the Soviet Union occupied Estonia, the Soviet Secret Police (a precursor to the KGB) seized this house from its owners, deported them to the Siberian gulags and created a pre-trial space in the cellar away from watching eyes.

“There were 13 cells and three isolation boxes. Prisoners were convicted under the deliberately vague Article 58 penal code and confessions were forced through torture

Need to know: Tartu, Estonia

When to go

Tartu doesn’t suffer from Tallinn’s summer crowds, but it does rain frequently during this time (Jun–Aug). We’d advise visiting in the drier shoulder seasons (Mar–May; Sep–Oct). Winters can be very cold (-20ºC).

bars and pop-up concert venues; try brunch spot Cruffin for its croissants and Kolm Tilli for its street food.

Elsewhere, TOKO (tokoresto.ee) is a riverfront fusion restaurant well worth a punt – try the scallops with truffle.

Getting there & around

Air Baltic (airbaltic.com), Wizz Air (wizzair.com) and Ryanair (ryanair.com) fly direct to Tallinn from London Gatwick, Luton and Stansted respectively. Returns cost from £70 and take three hours. To get from Tallinn to Tartu, Lux Express buses – fitted with TVs and wifi – run regular departures from Tallinn Central Bus Station and take 2.5 hours (£12; luxexpress.eu). Car rental is available in town at Sixt or Europcar from £11 per day.

In the hamlet of Haanja, Suur Muna (suurmuna.ee) is a family-run café of great charm that sells locally smoked hams and ‘wild meats’ (beaver, boar).

Don’t miss

Estonian National Museum, Tartu, plays host to a series of special CofC events and exhibitions, including concert Forgotten Peoples, a homage to Indigenous Estonians. erm.ee

KGB Cells Museum is set in a Tartu basement that was used as an NKVD/ KGB pre-trial prison in the 1940s and ’50s. It’s an important history that needs to be heard. muuseum.tartu.ee

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Tallinn produces 276kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Kissing Tartu is a ‘snogathon’ aimed at breaking down prejudice. It takes place around the city’s Kissing Students statue on 17 and 18 May.

Mooska, Haanja, is a smoke sauna on a farm in the south. You’ll spend three hours being whisked, bathed and slathered in honey. mooska.eu

Visa & currency

Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Currency: Euro (EUR), currently around €1.17 to the UK£.

The Onion Route is an ideal day trip from Tartu and traces the shores of Lake Peipus, passing villages inhabited by Russian Old Believers. sibulatee.ee

Where to stay

Hotel Dorpat goes by Tartu’s historical name and is a short walk from the Old Town. It has a restaurant and spa. Doubles from £66pn. dorpat.ee Hotel Tartu lies in the city centre and has an on-site sauna, a gym, and a hostel wing for those on a budget. Doubles from £63pn. tartuhotell.ee

In winter, try your hand at ice fishing, a karakatitsa safari and sledging. Mesi Tare (mesitare.ee) can arrange tours.

Further information

Tartu2024.ee – Festival site

Visitvoru.ee – Tourist board website

The trip

Food & drink

Aparaaditehas Creative City (aparaaditehas.ee) is a former umbrella factory repurposed as a hip quadrangle of cafés, restaurants,

The author was a guest of Regent Holidays (regent-holidays.co.uk; 01174 535 461), which offers a new six-day Tallinn and Tartu twin-centre city break from £865 per person based on two adults sharing, including return flights, transfers, B&B accommodation and return train or bus tickets.

and interrogation,” explained Martin, pointing to a preserved electric chair.

Conditions were grim. Prisoners had no mattresses or blankets, and the middle plank of the bed was intentionally raised higher so that those interned here could never truly rest. Around me, the museum walls echoed with the recorded sound of men tapping on metal doors. “Prisoners used Morse code to communicate because they’d be punished for talking,” explained Martin.

Need to know: Bad Ischl, Austria

When to go

In summer, the Salzkammergut lake district region is a joy, but it is also busy. Spring (May–Jun) and autumn (Sep–Oct) see the hiking routes and lakes empty. Winter is skiing season.

Getting there & around

The nearest airport to Bad Ischl is Salzburg. British Airways (ba.com) is one of many airlines to fly direct from the UK. Returns from London Gatwick cost from £84 and take 2 hours. There is no direct train from Salzburg to Bad Ischl, so take bus 150 from Salzburg train station (£13). Trains depart Bad Ischl for Bad Goisern and Hallstatt.

shop – try the house speciality kipferl biscuits. Restaurant Elizabeth (restauration-elisabeth.at) is the city’s most elegant historical restaurant, while Café Ramsauer (Kaiser-FranzJosef-Straße 8) was once a favourite of composer Johann Strauss. Look out too for Tavern Culture Reloaded, a lively CofC pop-up inside Bad Ischl train station that is run by TV chef Christoph ‘Krauli’ Held and his group of apprentice chefs (25–28 Apr, 14–16 Jun, 27–30 Jul, 25–28 Sep; 4–9pm); also try his restaurant SiriusKogl (siriuskogl.at).

It made for uneasy and difficult listening, but this museum is an important place of remembrance. “It was the idea of those who survived Siberia, so we’d never forget,” added Martin. Meanwhile, Kalle and I climbed back up the stairs and into the light.

In the story of Tartu’s KGB cells, I had found dark echoes of the history of Austria, whose wartime past hangs as heavy as the frozen mists in the forest of Ebensee. This green slice of rural Austria lies a 15 minute-drive north-east of Bad Ischl. Its name means ‘the plains on the shore of the lake’, which is a serene moniker for a region home to the country’s largest salt-processing plant. But hidden behind the pines was also a former Nazi concentration camp.

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Salzburg produces 222kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Visa & currency

Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Currency: Euro (EUR), currently around €1.17 to the UK£.

Where to stay

Stadthotel Goldenes Schiff, Bad Ischl, is stylish without being stuffy and has a well-stocked spa. Doubles from £95pn. goldenes-schiff.at

Goiserer Mühle, Bad Goisern, is a family-style hotel ten minutes’ drive from Bad Ischl. Doubles from £178pn. hotel-goiserermuehle.at

Hallstatt Hideaway, Hallstatt, is among a handful of adults-only private suites with alpine views and access to a pine sauna. Doubles from £256pn. hallstatt-hideaway.com

Food & drink

In Bad Ischl, Cafe Konditorei Zauner (zauner.at) is a legendary cake

Don’t miss

The Sudhaus is hosting Art with Salt and Water, an exhibition that explores the region’s relationship with salt. It is one of the main CofC exhibitions. salzkammergut-2024.at

Kaiservilla was the summer residence of Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Elizabeth (‘Sisi’). Don’t miss seeing the desk at which he signed the declaration of war on Serbia, which escalated into the First World War. kaiservilla.at

Ebensee concentration camp was destroyed after Austria’s liberation, but the tunnels that prisoners were forced to dig still exist. memorial-ebensee.at

Hand.Werk.Haus in Bad Goisern has a shop downstairs selling artisanal pottery, gin and clothes; upstairs is a museum on traditional crafts. It has a host of workshops and exhibitions during the CofC. handwerkhaus.at

The village of Hallstatt is so impossibly pretty that China made an exact replica of it. It has shaped the identity of the Salzkammergut region, thanks to its 7,000-year-old salt mines.

“Ebensee was one of Mauthausen [concentration camp’s] 50 subcamps,” explained Wolfgang Quatember, director of Ebensee War Museum.The barracks were demolished after liberation following the Second World War, but the tunnels that prisoners were forced to dig for the purpose of researching, constructing and storing missiles remain.

As we walked through residential streets to reach it, sunlight glinted on last night’s freshly fallen snow. “It might look beautiful to us, but it was hell for the prisoners, who wore only coarse shirts and trousers and wooden shoes,” commented Wolfgang as we entered the cold, damp jaws of a tunnel.

More than 27,000 people were imprisoned here; 8,300 died, mostly from starvation and

Further information

Salzkammergut tourist board’s KulturCard costs £42 and offers discounts at museums, concerts and exhibitions in the CofC programme. salzkammergut-2024.at – Festival site austria.info/en – Tourist board site

Emma Thomson; Estonia Tourism Board

“The museum was the idea of those who survived Siberia, so we’d never forget”

cold.That’s the entire population of Ebensee today, eradicated within 18 months.

“Until 1985, we Austrians denied the war – claimed it was not our fault. Only in 1991 did we start to take responsibility,”Walter told me. “It’s important to link our present to the past, so it never happens again.”

AN ARTISTIC STREAK

I encountered echoes of the Second World War in Bodø, too, which had been completely flattened in bombing raids by the Luftwaffe in May 1940. More than 1,000 civilians were killed and half the town was made homeless.

You can see more on this period at Bodø’s Norwegian Aviation Museum, which also covers the town’s role during the ColdWar as a launchpad for U-2 spyplane missions into Soviet airspace. But this past is also stamped across the city.After the bombing, the Swedish Red Cross built relief homes; now this congregation of red, blue, green and white houses forms the trendy neighbourhood of Svenskebyen (the Swedish Quarter).

Of the three cities I visited, Bodø was definitely the wild card.This fishing town, couched inside a crescent of snow-blanketed mountains, was previously dismissed as ‘Boring Bodø’, on account of its military air base, and visitors have tended to use it only as a gateway to the Lofoten Islands.

Indeed, Bodø town officials were actively asked not to apply for the Capital of Culture title by the Norwegian Minister for Culture. In typical feisty northern fashion, they ignored the request and succeeded anyway, becoming the first city above the Arctic Circle to win.They did so because of its sense of entrepreneurialism and a bohemian spirit that is reflected in its eclectic street art.

Hidden among the town’s grid-pattern streets, on the sides of post-Second World War buildings that seem to crouch against the cold, you’ll find murals of eagles and butterflies created by international artists when Bodø hosted the UpNorth street art festival in 2016. Look for ‘Insomnia’ (Havnegata) by Italian artist Millo, who captures the dazed mindset brought on by the midnight sun, and the black-and-white ‘Troll’ (Sjøgata 18) by Sheffield-based muralist Phlegm. ⊲

Cultural encounters (this page; clockwise from top) Estonia’s 1885-built Alatskivi Castle takes its architectural inspiration from Balmoral in the Scottish Highlands’, and it has been used as everything from a school to a cinema, though now welcomes visitors; traditional Sami boots are made from reindeer skin; a typical Old Believer’s living room in the Museum of Old Believers in Kolkja, Estonia; museum manager Lilli Tarakanov extends a warm welcome; a hand-carved Sámi drinking bowl, known as a kuksa; (left page) handmade Sámi crafts are on display during Bodø’s opening ceremony for its year as a Capital of Culture

A capital idea (this page; clockwise from top left) Árran 360º showcases five films by Sámi directors inside a lavvu (traditional Sami tent) as part of Bodø’s 2024 celebrations; master Sámi craftsman Johnsen Sløyd meets Queen Sonja of Norway; ‘Troll’ by Sheffield-based muralist Phlegm is one of many works of street art found across Bodø; the Gothic-style Bodø Cathedral was one of the first churches in Norway to have a detached steeple; the interrogation room at KGB Cells Museum, Tartu, is a sobering glimpse of Soviet Estonia; ‘Insomnia’ by Italian artist Millo, Bodø; (right page) Bodø’s ‘Cosmos with No Borders’ by Spanish artist Deih Alamy; Emma Thomson

By comparison, graffiti in Estonia is still technically illegal, and yet street art in Tartu has gone from being maligned to rivalling that found in Berlin – as long as it’s on agreed upon walls. ‘Galleries’ have popped up under two of the city’s seven bridges: the nighttime-lit Vabadussild and the bow-shaped Kaarsild.To the side of the latter, you’ll find ‘The Many Faces of President Päts’ by artist Edward von Lōngus, and on a nearby electricity box lies a work byTartu’s most-famous artist, Kairi Kliimand (aka Kairo).

“The murals are always changing; they’ve created a dialogue though art,” explained my guide, Kalle.The city also hosts ‘Stencibility’ (4–7 July), one of the oldest street arts festivals in Europe. It’s led by a Tartubased female collective who have gathered 25,000 stickers from worldwide artists and plastered them on a public bus running to and from the Estonian National Museum. It proves ‘a gallery can also be a city bus’.

Also asking people to think in new ways about art is Bad Ischl’s Art with Salt and Water exhibition at the Sudhaus. Artists from around the world were invited to interpret the Salzkammergut region’s relationship with salt. I entered the raw warehouse and was drawn to a metal fence erected around a piece of card with a QR code on it. I held up my phone, downloaded the app and watched as the floor opened up and words of poetry poured like salt into an imaginary hole.

The digital artist and architect Valerie Messini explained the work to me:“When we came to see the space, there was still a physical hole in the floor, but they closed it for safety. We decided to keep the memory of that space and add it back into the digital world,” she said. “It mixes places – real and digital – to expand how we think, see and perceive.”

I asked Valerie about people’s reactions to her work: “Those that come with

Need to know: Bodø, Norway

When to go

Deep winter sets in between November and March, when daylight hours are short and temperatures can drop to -10ºC, but it’s a great time to see the aurora. Between June and July, the midnight sun barely sets and conditions (20ºC) are ideal for hiking.

cod. Dama-Di (Sjøgata 18) promises ‘art, chaos and a bar’ – and it doesn’t disappoint on either front. Harbourside Txaba (txaba.no) is currently billed as the best eatery in town, pairing fine tapas with a quaffable wine list.

Getting there & around

Norwegian Air (norwegian.com) operates direct flights to Oslo from London Gatwick, Manchester and Edinburgh from around £80 return and take two hours. From Oslo, Norwegian Air and SAS fly seven times a day to Bodø (1.5 hours; £70 return). The airport is five minutes from town by bus (£4.40 one way).

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Bodø via Oslo produces 382kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Visa & currency

Visa: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Currency Norwegian Kroner (NOK), currently around NOK13.39 to the UK£.

Where to stay

Quality Hotel Ramsalt is a 250-room three-star that punches well above its rating thanks to the superb ‘The Social’ restaurant and bar. Doubles from £118pn. strawberryhotels.com

Wood Hotel is a brand-new wooden hotel on the outskirts of Bodø that has a focus on wellness and is scheduled to open in summer 2024. woodbodo.com

Food & drink

Lövolds Kafeteria (lovoldskafeteria.no) is a beloved no-frills granny café that happens to be the best place to try the local

Don’t miss

Sami culture. Check the online calendar (bodo2024.no) for a host of Indigenous music, theatre, film and workshops, including 200+ Sami artefacts inside Stormen Library.

Nōua is a contemporary photography and art space that hosts rotating shows in the town’s post-war dance hall. noua.no

The 1903 Nordland Museum, with its distinctive mustard-hued exterior, is being upgraded to host a year-long spotlight on Sami art and culture. nordlandsmuseet.no

Saltstraumen is a small strait on the outskirts of town. Operators can arrange sea-eagle safaris and Arctic coastal walks. exploresalten.no

Go swimming in the Arctic Ocean at Pust Bodø, a harbourside sauna with steps into the very cold sea. pust.no

The world’s first cave concert takes place at Plura Cave. While only qualified cave divers can attend on the day, the event will also be live streamed (Mar 29).

Further information

bodo2024.no – Festival site visitbodo.com – Tourist board site

The trip

The author was a guest of Sunvil (sunvil.co.uk; 020 8568 4499), which can arrange a seven-night stay at the Quality Hotel Ramsalt from £1,099 per person, including return flights from London, based on two sharing. Bodø can be incorporated into multi-centre itineraries, including combinations with the Lofoten Islands, Trondheim and the fjords, and the cities of Tromsø, Kirkenes, Bergen and Oslo.

Everything at once (this page; clockwise from top left) Pust sauna in Bodø is shaped like a traditional cod-drying rack; ‘Butterfly’ by Martin Watson in Bodø; tunnels dug by prisoners at Ebensee; Tartu’s main square gets in the mood; ‘Labyrinth’ by artist Motoi Yamamoto at the Sudhaus in Bad Ischl; Elizabeth Kontmayr works at Bad Ischl’s zero-waste pop-up in the train station; scenic Bad Ischl; Norway gears up for the world’s first underwater cave concert; (right page; clockwise from top left) the rooftops of Bodø; the Nordland Museum is hosting a year-long Sami exhibition in 2024; Bodø harbour; the author hangs out with Estonian TV chef ‘Krauli’ Alamy; Emma Thomson; Pekka Tuuri

“It has the potential to change the minds of those who feel art is too serious because it’s so playful”

conservative expectations of art often refuse to engage with it; on the other hand, it has the potential to change the minds of those who feel art is too serious because it’s so playful,” she smiled.

In Bodø, I met another creative with big dreams. Saxophonist Håkon Skog Erlandsen’s desire to challenge his audience goes beyond the usual. Nicknamed the ‘Jazzathlete’, in the past he has climbed the world’s Seven Summits while composing symphonies, then – when most people need oxygen to breathe – played them at the top. For Bodø’s Capital of Culture, he will team up with diving schoolVisit Plura to host the first underwater cave concert, near the hamlet of Mo i Rana, with an audience of fifty divers.

“Most people assume cave diving is an adrenalin-fuelled sport, but it’s actually so

silent that you can hear your heart, hear the blood in your veins. It’s not extreme, it’s beautiful because of the silence,” Håkon told me.

THE FUTURE

“Our gastronomy scene is dead,” declared Christoph ‘Krauli’ Held, an AustrianTV chef known for his dreadlocks and tattoo-clad forearms. “Restaurants have grown used to serving food for convenience.We need fresh, uncomplicated soul food made with love,” he enthused, sweeping his arm toward the kitchen where a clutch of students from Bad Ischl’sTourism School for Cooking smeared arcs of white-asparagus purée onto plates.

Krauli owns a restaurant in nearby Bad Goisern but has helped the students set up a pop-up zero-waste restaurant inside Bad Ischl train station as part of a Capital of Culture ‘foodie lab’. I snagged one to the students, 17-year-old Elizabeth Kontmayr, while she was ferrying plates to tables to ask what she thought.“As young people, it’s such a special thing to be trusted to work alone,” she said.

Last September, the school flew to Tartu and cooked for students there using ingre-

dients they’d brought with them. “They cried when we left,” beamed Krauli. “Look! Here’s our future.We must give our young a place in the city and listen to them.”

It’s perhaps this focus on the future that unites the three cities the most.The Capital of Culture title isn’t a frivolous year of festivals, nor is it an empty PR scheme designed to boost economies and tourism. It’s about legacy; it can redefine how a town sees itself.

“After Capital of Culture, locals will no longer be the same.They’ll be more united and open; they will have acquired new knowledge and innovative solutions,” said my Estonian guide, Kristiina Tammets.

That might mean a young female chef that goes on to revitalise Bad Ischl’s restaurant scene, a Tartu street artist painting a new vision or a young Sámi actress in Bodø promoting her almost-lost language through theatre.They prove, in a period when many countries are pitched against each other, that far from being an afterthought, culture can act as a powerful glue to unite, birth hope and create real change. And basting Heggert’s bum is optional.

CELEBRATE LOUISIANA’S YEAR OF MUSIC

SMusic is at the heart of life in Louisiana and an integral part of local culture. As the state celebrates its Year of Music, here’s how you can keep in step…

ing it out loud: 2024 marks Louisiana’s Year of Music!

This year, more than ever, you’ll be able to see firsthand why this state has rhythm in its soul, as a host of famous musical landmarks, festivals and venues celebrate in style.

Know your genres

Louisiana’s musical landscape is among the richest in the US. Its everevolving, folk-music-rooted scene ensures that life in the ‘Bayou State’ is just one long soundtrack.

Jazz in particular is synonymous with New Orleans (NOLA), and its soulful sound is rooted in the city’s African-American communities of the late 19th century. Second only to jazz, in terms of its ubiquity, are the catchy,

accordion- and fiddle-led melodies of Cajun music, which originated in the rural south-west of the state. This lively, largely Francophone, genre reflects the traditional culture of the French-speaking Acadians of Canada, who took refuge in Louisiana in 1755.

Zydeco music shares a similarly infectious beat to Cajun, with its use of the accordion and washboard producing a distinct blend of AfroCaribbean sounds and blues-inspired rhythms unique to rural south-west Louisiana’s Black Creole community. Then there’s ‘swamp pop’, a sloweddown blend of Cajun and zydeco styles that emerged from state capital Baton Rouge in the 1950s. Although it’s Louisiana’s most obscure genre, it has a familiar rock ’n’ roll vibe.

Lyrical Louisiana (this page; top to bottom) Live music is a way of life in Louisiana; Blue Moon is a popular honky-tonk venue in Lafayette

Lyrical landmarks

New Orleans is bursting with landmarks that will impress jazz fans. For a good introduction, head to the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the corner of Frenchmen Street’s live music corridor. It tells of key players and moments in New Orleans’ jazz history through stories, nostalgic photographs and memorabilia.

An essential stop for soaking up the jazz scene is the rustic, one-room Preservation Hall in the heart of New Orleans’ eclectic French Quarter. Here, a charismatic house band plays a few sets each night, often accompanied by big-name musicians. Elsewhere, the renowned Jazz Playhouse, tucked inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel, has a vintage jazz club feel.

Another old-stager is the Maple Leaf Bar, one of New Orleans’ longestserving music clubs, which hosts live acts every night. And if you’re after a non-jazz concert experience, the Lafon Arts Center in Luling is the place to see bands perform to bigger audiences.

Immersive experiences

For an educational deep dive into NOLA’s jazz culture, head to the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park. Its lectures, films, exhibitions and jazz walking tours are an excellent primer.

In Louisiana’s oldest town, Natchitoches – pronounced ‘Nacka-tish’ – a live blues fix awaits at local-favourite Mama’s Blues Room, inside Mama’s Oyster House. It’s an essential stop on any musical trip through Louisiana, and loved as much for its hearty portions of delicious homespun Cajun cooking as it is for its live music schedule.

Come Saturday morning in Breaux Bridge, the line snakes around the block at Buck and Johnny’s for a table at ‘zydeco breakfast’. Here, for three hours, customers alternate between eating local dishes like etouffee – a spicy seafood stew with rice – and dancing to zydeco’s infectious beat.

Finally, a new Louisiana Music Trail (louisianamusictrail.com) has been launched in 2024 that knits together the state’s rich musical heritage. It’s an exciting addition to Louisiana’s already impressive songbook…

Dates for your diary

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival

Jazz Fest, as locals refer to it, is a big-hitting celebration of Louisiana music, food and culture. It features 13 stages and attracts thousands of visitors to New Orleans at the end of April each year. Over the years, line-ups have included many international performers, with The Rolling Stones billed for 2024.

Festival International de Louisiane

Downtown Lafayette is the setting for this huge five-day celebration of Louisiana’s French heritage in April. It also happens to be one of the USA’s

Sound of the state (this page; clockwise from top left) Jazz Fest celebrates Louisianan food, music and culture; attending a concert is one of the best ways to admire Louisiana’s musical diversity; Preservation Hall is an essential stop for jazz lovers; soak up musical heritage at the Capitol Park Museum in Baton Rouge; Geno Delafose is one of the state’s most recognisable zydeco musicians

largest international music and arts festivals, featuring performances by artists from some 20 countries, along with workshops, exhibits, visual arts and theatre productions.

Baton Rouge Blues Festival

Every April, Louisiana’s state capital – the long-time home of the state’s blues culture – plays host to this free, two-day family-friendly festival curated by the Baton Rouge Blues Foundation. Highlights include a wealth of bands, a laid-back atmosphere and stalls selling local dishes such as crawfish beignets –a square-shaped doughnut.

Explore Louisiana

America’s story is written in song. It’s in the syrupy vocals of a gospel choir, in the twang of a banjo, in the beat of a powwow drum. Almost every popular music genre you can think of has US roots. The blues rose from the cotton fields of the South, born of African spirituals and the work songs sung by enslaved peoples. Jazz grew in New Orleans, hewn from the Afro and Caribbean rhythms played in Congo Square. House music burst from the warehouse clubs of Chicago, and country grew in

SOUNDS OF THE STATES

SOUNDS OF THE STATES

Listen up! We talk to those in the know about the iconic sites and venues that made US music history

Edited by Jacqui Agate

the green mountains of Appalachia.And long before European settlers arrived, Indigenous Peoples used music to tell stories of creation, migration and the land.The USA’s icons are too numerous to count: Otis Redding, Elvis Presley, Kurt Cobain, Dolly Parton… The country’s musical footprint continues to grow, too. Beyoncé just became the first Black woman to top Billboard’s Hot Country Songs chart, while the gig-tripping trend (combining concerts with travel) has fans crossing oceans to see megastars like Taylor Swift.

There are endless ways to tune into the USA’s ongoing soundtrack today. Live venues range from rickety juke joints swollen with the blues to epic arenas fit for the world’s musical heavyweights. Museums are filled with instruments and iconic memorabilia, and preserved studios mean you can walk in the footsteps of legends. To find the best ways to hear the sounds of the States, we spoke to expert locals in the USA’s top musical destinations. Lend us your ears and discover them for yourself.

Wendell Brunious on:

New Orleans jazz

“New Orleans was once one of the world’s busiest port cities, attracting people from countries such as France, Spain, Italy, the Philippines, Cuba and Mexico. Enslaved peoples from Africa were also brought here. And out of that variegated culture, jazz was born. It was influenced by classical and march music from Europe, and then later combined with African rhythms.

Blues, gospel, society music, African beats, marching music and ragtime are ever-present too. New Orleans’ music scene reflects the soul of its people and its ancestors.

Louis Armstrong (aka Satchmo) put jazz on the world stage, and we honour him everywhere here – there’s even a bronze statue of him in Louis Armstrong Park.There’s also the Satchmo Summer Fest at the New Orleans Jazz Museum every year in early August.The Jazz Museum is a special place, and we have such a rich history of music that its exhibitions change constantly.

Preservation Hall, in a historic French Quarter building, is the greatest place for live jazz.We play up front and there’s no ‘stage’ per se; it’s meant to be an intimate and collective gathering celebrating jazz. I would also pay a visit toThe Palm Court Jazz Café (French Quarter) and Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro (Faubourg Marigny).Then take a walk down Bourbon Street or Frenchmen Street, or visit Jackson Square. It’s difficult to hear bad music in New Orleans!”

Wendell Brunious is a jazz trumpeter and the musical director at Preservation Hall, New Orleans, Louisiana.

Zia McCabe on:

Rebels and rockers in Portland, Oregon

“What really makes Portland’s music scene unique is that it’s heavily DIY. My family was part of the Lewis and Clark Expedition in 1804. It wasn’t easy for them to get to the Pacific Northwest; the people who made it here were rugged individualists.That mentality remains today. We’re all just a bunch of pirates and adventurers; except now, we’re making music instead of exploring the world.

The identity of this town comes from these renegade artists, and the music you’ll hear is so eclectic. In terms of the venues I frequent, there’s Lollipop Shoppe, where you’ll find outsider music and heavy metal.There could even be a square-dancing night. Laurelthirst Pub is the first place that I played with The DandyWarhols; it’s a tiny bar geared towards alt-country. Mississippi Studios and the Alberta Street Pub are other great options.Then there are places like Bunk Bar – a sandwich shop by day that has great shows at night.

Pickathon, just outside town, is one of the coolest festivals in the world: you camp up in the woods and DJs play vinyl sets in between the bands performing. It’s zero waste, too.We’ve also got amazing record stores here – vinyl is alive and well. Music Millennium is the king of them all, then you have smaller ones like Jump Jump Music, which is mostly soul records.” Musician and Oregon native Zia McCabe plays keyboard for alt-rock band The DandyWarhols.

in 1961 to

Music is just a way of life (this page; clockwise from top) Pickathon festival is held at Pendarvis Farm (just outside Portland, Oregon) and tends to champion experimental performers such as Zambian psychedelic rock band WITCH (We Intend To Cause Havoc; pictured); Dandy Warhols musician Zia McCabe says that Portland’s musical energy is “bigger than ever”; jazz trumpeter Wendell Brunious plays at New Orleans’ Preservation Hall, which was founded

protect the tradition of jazz in the Big Easy and holds concerts on more than 360 nights of the year – so you’ll almost always be able to catch a show

Alamy; Caroline Brunious; Mike Morgan; Shutterstock ⊲

Eric Magnuson on:

Seattle’s grunge scene

“Seattle has always rocked. Grunge is a hybrid of clever songwriting and the many styles of rock ’n’ roll present in Seattle in the mid-1980s – heavy metal, garage rock, noise. But the influences of this region go back further than grunge. Seattle had a big jazz-era post-SecondWorldWar, when musicians like Ray Charles came here to cut their teeth.The isolation of the Pacific Northwest (where big tours seldom came) gave these musicians room to experiment on their own.

Nirvana’s Kurt Cobain is beyond iconic. He’s the Pacific Northwest’s Elvis. Jimi Hendrix is also essential. Other musicians who found their way in Seattle include Chris Cornell, Quincy Jones, Ernestine Anderson, and Stone Gossard and Mike McCready from Pearl Jam – the list could go on.

My tours typically start at the historic Moore Theatre and finish at KEXP’s Gathering Space (KEXP was the first radio station to air a Nirvana song).We also visit former clubs like TheVogue, where Nirvana played their first major Seattle show.

Another institution I respect is MoPOP (Museum of Pop Culture), housed in a Frank Gehry-designed building. It functions as the quintessential archive for Pacific Northwest music history, and it has a long-standing and excellent Nirvana exhibit.

Seattle is one of the best cities to see live music, and I gravitate toward venues with deep local connections to this, likeThe Crocodile in Belltown and Neumos in Capitol Hill.” Writer Eric Magnuson runs the Seattle Grunge Redux tour (seattlegrungeredux.com) in Seattle,Washington.

Sound of Seattle (this page; top to bottom) Seattle’s MoPOP was conceived first as a Jimi Hendrix museum; Nirvana’s 1991 Nevermind album has sold tens of millions of copies; Eric Magnuson at Seattle’s London Bridge Studio, which offers guided tours

Alamy; Brett Dorrian; Eric Magnuson; Lori Branch; Shutterstock

The Minneapolis sound

“Minneapolis has a rich history of folk, punk, rock and country music, but there’s also a genre known as ‘The Minneapolis Sound’: a blend of R&B, jazz, funk, punk, new wave and rock ’n’ roll. Prince, Jimmy Jam and Terry Lewis, Morris Day and André Cymone all contributed to this unique music (which included a heavy reliance on LinnDrum machines and synthesisers). It dominated the airwaves in the 1980s and beyond.

No Minneapolis icon compares to Prince, and the city shaped his life and work. Duluth-born folk troubadour Bob Dylan also remained connected to Minnesota by re-recording songs at the Sound 80 Studio in Minneapolis’ Seward neighbourhood (where SoundAround offers tours).

Minneapolis has some of the best live venues in the world, including First Avenue, which is housed in a former Greyhound bus depot. Prince made it iconic when he featured it in his 1984 film Purple Rain – his famous ballad of the same name was also recorded live inside these walls.

The Dakota club is the place for jazz, soul, R&B and blues musicians.The Armory (housed in an armoury built in 1936) has been headlined by JackWhite and Lizzo (a Prince protégé).

SoundAroundTours focus on places associated with Prince, Minneapolis Sound artists and the downtown music scene. You can download a geo-location-based app that’ll direct you to the sites, then audio files will tell you their stories.”

Kristen Zschomler is a historian and guide who co-founded SoundAroundTours (soundaroundtours.com) and the International Centre 4 Prince Studies.

Lori Branch on:

Raising the roof in Chicago

“In Chicago, we think of ‘house’ as both a culture and a genre, but it’s fundamentally a kind of electronic music.The term ‘house’ comes from Warehouse, a Chicago club that was popular in the late 1970s and ’80s, where resident DJ Frankie Knuckles was a pioneer of the genre. An old record store in the city called Importes, Etc started its own ‘Warehouse’ section and it grew from there.

Today, house music is thriving in the city, and we have a tonne of spots to experience it any night of the week. One great place is Smartbar, which has been around since the early ’80s.You can expect total immersion and total joy – you’ll go in and be swallowed up by the music.

We have a floating exhibition – Chicago: Home of House – that explores the history of the genre and is opening at Navy Pier on Memorial Day weekend in May this year.There’ll also be special shows and events to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the first house record (Jesse Saunders’ ‘On & On’).

The Chosen Few festival happens in summertime at Jackson Park on the South Side. If you want to just walk around and learn about house music, it’s the perfect place to be. Plus, there’s also Chicago House Music Festival at Millennium Park in June.”

DJ Lori Branch is a long-serving house DJ in Chicago, Illinois, who also hosts the Vintage House radio show onWNUR.

The Midwest moves to its own beat (this page; clockwise from top left) Expert guide Kristen Zschomler says Minneapolis gave megastar Prince the space to flourish, and he responded with hits celebrating his hometown such as ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll is Alive (And It Lives in Minneapolis)’; DJ Lori Branch believes jazz, gospel and the blues join house music as key Chicago genres, partly as a result of the Great Migration that saw more than 6 million Black citizens relocate from the south to the north of America in the 20th century; eye-catching Prince murals cover a building on First Avenue in downtown Minneapolis

Kristen Zschomler on:

Conjunto in San Antonio

“A lot of Mexican-Americans like to say that we didn’t cross the border; the border crossed us. In South Texas, Mexican Americans have lived a history of oppression, including persecution by the Texas Rangers in the early 20th century, and conjunto music is intertwined with that history. It’s part of America’s story.

Conjunto music is a hybrid of European and Indigenous Mexican rhythms and sounds. The Germans, Czechs and Poles brought the accordion toTexas, along with rhythms and dances like the polka, schottische, redowa and waltz. Mexicans who were living here quickly picked these up and combined them with their own music.

The Guadalupe Cultural Arts Center is one of the largest Latino arts organisations in the country.We have a Chicano fine art gallery, a Latino bookstore, and we also host the Annual Tejano Conjunto Festival in May – three days of music in Rosedale Park.We have special programming and a Conjunto Hall of Fame induction ceremony during that time too.The festival is important because it was the first of its kind to take this music beyond the cantinas and dance halls.

On most weekends you’ll find music at Bosmans on the Southside; it’s the real deal, and it’s been going for years. Check listings at venues like the Thirsty Horse Dance Hall and Saloon, Far West and The Grasshopper Club too.”

Cristina Balli is the executive director of the Guadalupe Cultural Arts Center in San Antonio,Texas.

Tiana Spotted Thunder on:

Lakota song in South Dakota

“Our people are expressive in many different ways, and singing is a vital part of our culture. Indigenous Lakota music generally consists of vocables (vocalised sounds without any referential meaning). Our songs portray many emotions: they can praise, honour and uplift somebody or express mourning.We have drum circles and traditional handgame songs too.

I sing back-up vocals for two drum groups you can see live –Showtime and Midnite Express Singers.The Black Hills Pow Wow [in South Dakota] is also open to the public and is always a learning experience for those who have never been.

Many Lakota artists combine traditional musical elements with modern expression.The Oglala Lakota Artspace (an Indigenous-run cultural centre on the Pine Ridge Reservation) is one of the main places that I perform, and I love to sing contemporary music in my own language. Or I’ll often do a set of traditional songs, then save some R&B tracks for the end.

Also look out for Night Shield, a Lakota rapper from the Rosebud Reservation. He plays shows across South Dakota, too.”

Tiana Spotted Thunder is an Oglala Lakota recording artist from the Pine Ridge Reservation, South Dakota.

Music with deep roots (this page; clockwise from top left) The first Tejano Conjunto Festival was held in San Antonio in 1982, and was established to protect this traditional Mexican and Mexican-American musical genre from disappearing – today, the festival features artists such as Eva Ybarra (pictured), who performs with her button accordion; Tiana Spotted Thunder is regularly called upon to sing the American national anthem at events in her Native Lakota language, and can often be found performing at the Oglala Lakota Artspace; Cristina Balli believes conjunto music is an essential sound of America

Cristina Balli on: Alamy; MacKenzie Scheff; Shutterstock; Stax Records

Memphis soul

“Memphis music is rooted in human experience. In the 19th century, enslaved Africans would bring crops from the rural Mississippi Delta to market in Memphis. It was around this time that Beale Street became a hub for Black music.

Memphis soul was born later, in 1957, when the legendary Stax Records opened.This record company was unusual in that it was a white-owned business in a virtually all-Black neighbourhood during a time of segregation. Otis Redding and Isaac Hayes were among the biggest stars to be signed up by Stax.

At Stax Museum of American Soul Music, you’re treading hallowed ground. It’s not the original studio building, but it’s an authentic recreation in the same location. It’s also one of Memphis’ ‘Big Four’ music attractions, which include the Memphis Rock ’n’ Soul Museum, Graceland (longtime home of Elvis Presley) and Sun Studio, where Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Jerry Lee Lewis all recorded.

Full Gospel Tabernacle Church is another must-visit.This was established by soul singer Al Green, and it’s really the only place you can see him perform now.

In the Cooper-Young neighbourhood, Bar DKDC has some great line-ups.You might see a rare soul DJ set one night and power-pop the next. On Beale Street, Memphis musicians ply their craft every night at the Blues City Café BandBox. And GonerFest in September draws bands from across the world in genres from rock ’n’ roll to R&B.”

Jeff Kollath is the executive director of the Stax Museum of American Soul Music in Memphis,Tennessee.

Soulful USA (this page; clockwise from top) Live venues abound on Beale Street in Memphis; Elvis bought Graceland in 1957 for just over $100,000 at the age of 22; Stax co-founder Jim Stewart was a banker by day and a fiddle player by night; Jeff Kollath of Stax Museum knows his soul music

Jeff Kollath on:

Sheila

Bomba in Puerto Rico

“Bomba is an art of self-expression that connects your mind and heart while you’re dancing. Originating from the ‘batey’ (sugar workers’ town), bomba was the only way that slaves could be ‘free’ from their sadness and mistreatment. It is our first rhythm, and it has existed for 400 years. It changes by region, but bomba music is always played with the barrel or drum.

Bomba means fighting and resistance; it’s our ancestral legacy. This folkloric, traditional and Afro-Boricua music has become our people’s and our country’s identity. Listening to the sound of the drums is a call to the spirit.When you dance, you are connecting with your surroundings.

Anyone who visits Puerto Rico can take a bomba workshop in our beachfront space at Puente Herrera in the town of Loiza.The class includes learning the history of bomba, how to use the bomba skirt and practising the five bomba rhythms most commonly played in the batey community.

If you want to just enjoy watching or listening to the music, there are other spaces that promote bomba activities.These include El Boricua in Río Piedras; Plaza de Armas and La Perla in Old San Juan; and El Imán Bar and Restaurant in Piñones.”

Sheila Osorio is the director ofTaller de Bomba N’Zambi (taller-de-bomba-nzambi.negocio. site),which offers education and dance classes in bomba.She hails from Loíza,a cradle of AfroPuerto Rican heritage.

Bomba time (this page; top to bottom) Bomba music might have originated in Puerto Rico’s colonial plantations 400 years ago, but it is still a part of the local community and has experienced a resurgence in recent years among young Puerto Ricans; Sheila Osorio leads the way when it comes to preserving this age-old dance; bomba classes offer a chance to test your moves

Osorio on:

Alamy; Discover Puerto Rico

Denver’s Red Rocks

“Red Rocks is an incredibly special place. It’s an amphitheatre that has been carved out between huge rock formations and it integrates seamlessly into the landscape just outside Denver. Playing there was as profound a life moment as you would expect. And when you’re in the crowd, there’s this sense of enraptured awe. For my first ever Red Rocks show I saw Björk, and I’ll never forget it.

Every genre of music is being made in Denver right now. A lot of transplants call the city home – and it’s also a college town, so it’s really eclectic.There are plenty of legendary venues on Colfax Avenue, a major artery in the city, including the Fillmore Auditorium, the OgdenTheatre and the BluebirdTheater.They all have great bands. Larimer Lounge (in the River North Art District) is another venue I like; it’s the kind of place where you can meet the artists at the merch table afterwards.

Even the Museum of Contemporary Art has performances –usually a combination of national and local acts. It’s really cool!”

Alaina Moore is one half of husband-and-wife indie-pop duo Tennis, formed in Denver, Colorado.

Keeping music live in Austin

“Whatever kind of music you want to listen to – blues, zydeco, funk,Tejano – there’s a club for it somewhere in this town.We call ourselves the ‘Live Music Capital of the World’. South Congress neighbourhood is home to The Continental Club –which is a historical landmark – as well as juke-joint C-Boy’s Heart & Soul. In Downtown, you’ve got Antone’s, which has been foundational to the blues scene. You’ve also got places keeping the Texas two-step alive, with The Broken Spoke being the granddaddy of them all. Elsewhere, Mohawk, in the Red River Cultural District, brings in all kinds of bands – Iggy Pop played there once. And Austin City Limits Live at the MoodyTheater is the kind of big venue where you’d see national touring acts.

Another of Austin’s legacies is its singer-songwriter tradition; people likeTownesVan Zandt and Jerry JeffWalker are legendary.There’s a very important club called the Saxon Pub that has open-mic nights giving up-and-coming artists a shot.

Austin City Limits Music Festival takes place downtown in Zilker Park in October.We’ve had Billie Eilish, Al Green,Willie Nelson and local bands like the Black Pumas perform – one of my favourites from last year was Little Simz.We also have a free summer event called Blues on the Green, while the South by Southwest festival in March is another amazing experience.” Ed Bailey is vice president of brand development at the Austin City Limits TV show and a founder of the Austin City Limits Music Festival in Texas.

Setting the stage (this page; clockwise from top left) Alaina Moore’s Tennis has been one of the breakout bands from Denver in recent years – a city that counts alt-folk stars The Lumineers among its number; Austin’s The Continental Club opened its doors in 1955 as a private supper club and has become a mecca for roots, blues, rock and soul music; Ed Bailey works on the longest-running music TV show in the world, Austin City Limits, which first aired in 1974 with a performance by Willie Nelson; Denver’s Ogden Theatre opened in 1918 as the city’s top vaudeville house and is now one of its biggest venues; the magic of Red Rocks

Alaina Moore on:

Ed Bailey on: ⊲

Carroll McMahan on:

Tennessee’s country legends

“East Tennessee, SouthwestVirginia and Northern Georgia have always been a part of country music history. The mountains here were settled by the ScotsIrish, who brought their ballads and musical instruments from their home countries. There were also influences from gospel and the blues, so it’s a real merging of cultures.

You can’t talk very long about East Tennessee and Sevierville without mentioning Dolly Parton. We’re very proud of her. She grew up in a rural area, but Sevierville was her closest town and The Pines Theater was where she had her first paid performance.Walking tours in downtown Sevierville tell stories of Dolly’s childhood – in fact, we’re working on a new one that’ll include places like the Old Kilpatrick’s Drug Store, where she used to go for hot dogs.

Dollywood is the place to go for Dolly fans.The theme park has rides and attractions, plus there’s lots of live entertainment and seasonal festivals. There’s always live music there, from country and gospel to more contemporary stuff.

Country music is really evolving. LaineyWilson (originally from Louisiana) is so popular, and so is Kelsea Ballerini out of Knoxville.There are so many live venues beyond Sevierville, too. Knoxville has a load, and Ole Red (inspired by the Blake Shelton song) is a favourite in Gatlinburg. Then, of course, there’s the legendary Nashville and its Bluebird Café, where Taylor Swift was discovered.”

Carroll McMahan is a historian, tour guide and native of Sevierville,Tennessee.

Kathy Blackman on:

Rocking Cleveland

“Moondog Coronation Ball is considered the world’s first major rock concert, and it was hosted in Cleveland in 1952. The local WMMS radio station – where a guy named Alan Freed was a DJ – was doing some really cutting-edge stuff, bringing in all sorts of rock acts. Freed coined the term ‘rock and roll’ on the show.

This was the main reason why they chose to have the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame here in Cleveland. It’s got some really cool exhibits, and they just opened one on ‘Revolutionary Women in Music’.There’s also a major expansion going on (to be finished in 2026). Elsewhere in the city, the Boddie Recording Co – our first African American-owned recording studio – just got Cleveland landmark status.

Music clubs anchor our neighbourhoods.We ownThe Grog Shop in Coventry, which started in 1992. We’re a gritty little club with a lot of heart, and we play all kinds of musical genres: we’ve had everybody from Oasis to Bruno Mars, to Machine Gun Kelly perform here.Then there’s Happy Dog on theWest Side – they have great rock and roll – and also No Class, which is an old-school, grungy punk club.

The Agora Theatre has lots of history – it’s in a beautiful restored building – and the Beachland Ballroom and Tavern is great too. The Cleveland Museum of Art also curates an amazing concert series in summer at theTransformer Station.” Kathy Blackman owns Grog Shop,a 400-seat music venue in Cleveland, Ohio.

Country calling (this page; clockwise from top left) Dollywood has only been the name of Tennessee’s legendary Dolly Parton-themed amusement park since 1986 – before that, it was known variously as Silver Dollar City, Goldrush Junction and Rebel Railroad, when it was more of a Wild West theme park; Kathy Blackman is the owner of the Cleveland music club Grog Shop, which first opened back in 1992; an extension to the IM Pei-designed Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum is set to add indoor event and performance spaces to the building, doubling its size; Carroll McMahan leads a country-themed tour around Sevierville

Ku’uipo

The power of real Hawaiian music

“The Hawaiian language was banned in 1896, when the US government occupied our nation.The music and poetry of Native Hawaiians is the only thing that kept our language intact.To perpetuate the mele (traditional Hawaiian song) is to take that knowledge and bring it forward.

Instruments introduced to Hawaii include the ukulele from Portugal and guitars from Spain. It’s sometimes hard to find real Hawaiian music on the islands today. But organisations like the Hawaiian Music Perpetuation Society are preserving this culture through events and programming. I work with Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort and Spa, where we have the Ho’okela Hawaiian Heritage and Culture Center (which includes hula dance workshops and ukulele lessons).There’s also the free Kilohana Hula Show atWaikīkī Shell Amphitheater. The Queen’s Arbor (run by Kai Coffee) is a great place for seasonal performances.You can sit right by the beach, have coffee, watch the waves and hear real Hawaiian music.”

Ku’uipo Kumukahi is an award-winning musician from Hilo, Hawaii. She is also the current president of the Hawaiian Music Perpetuation Society (hawaiianmusicperpetuationsociety.com).

on: ⊲

Keeping the fire going (this page; top to bottom) The basis for all Hawaiian music is the ‘mele’ – chants, songs and poems that kept alive the Hawaiian language when its teaching was banned; Ku’uipo Kumukahi is a Hawaiian singer known for her traditional slackkey guitar playing

Kumukahi

Alamy; Gus Chan; Hawaiian Music Perpetuation Society; Sevierville Chamber of Commerce; Shutterstock

Miami’s Cuban heart

“You can sense the pulse of Cuba in Miami, Florida.You’ll hear Spanish everywhere. And it’s this Latin tradition that makes the city and its music so special.The sound is infectious.

Due to the various hardships Cubans experienced in their own country, many had no choice but to come here – but they continued to exercise their culture. My dad was one of those people who played the accordion just to eat.

Today, Calle Ocho is an amazing street in Miami’s Little Havana neighbourhood.You’ll see people playing dominoes and restaurants serving cafecito (Cuban espresso) and rice and beans.There’s an old Cuban nightclub called Ball & Chain, which is dope. Jazz legends like Chet Baker and Nat King Cole passed through this salsa club – and now you can hear Latin jazz performers and DJ sets. It’s an example of how we want to connect to our roots but grow and explore in different ways.

Outside of Calle Ocho, Lagniappe is a cool wine-and-cheese place in theWynwood neighbourhood that has great line-ups.The Montreux Jazz Festival was in Miami for the first time this year, and there’s also the GroundUP Music Festival in Miami Beach (February), which has drum circles and acapella by the ocean.” Emily Estefan was born in Miami Beach, Florida, and is a musician whose styles include jazz and funk. She is the daughter of Cuban-American singer Gloria Estefan and musician and producer Emilio Estefan.

Dr G Preston Wilson, Jr on:

Nashville’s Fisk Jubilee Singers

“The Fisk Jubilee Singers are a student musical group from Fisk University dedicated to the performance and preservation of the African spiritual. Some early spirituals were work songs, used by enslaved peoples as an outlet during harsh labour; others were songs of hope and Christianity.

The African spiritual is important because it’s a mixture of the Western classical canon and the expression and creativity of the Black experience. There would be no other type of expressive music without it – no country, no jazz, no gospel.

Nashville’s Fisk Jubilee Singers were really the world’s first touring pop sensation too – from the 1870s on, they crossed oceans to perform.They’re the reason Nashville is known as ‘Music City’.When QueenVictoria saw them perform, she said they must be from a ‘City of Music’.

To hear a concert, be sure to check out our website (fiskjubileesingers.org).We recently had our solo debut at the Grand Ole Opry and we’ve performed at the Ryman Auditorium and Schermerhorn Symphony Center.

I’d also recommend the National Museum of African American Music, which focuses on the musical contributions of African Americans, from gospel to hip hop. It’s really interactive: you can put on headphones, become a rapper and record a track.”

Dr G PrestonWilson, Jr is director of the Fisk Jubilee Singers in Nashville,Tennessee, and was a member of the group from 2006 to 2010.

Emily Estefan on:

Chris Joslin on:

Kentucky bluegrass

“Most consider Bill Monroe to be the father of bluegrass music. And the name of his group (the Blue Grass Boys) was intentional. He was saying: ‘I’m from the Bluegrass State of Kentucky.’ Bluegrass is a derivative of early country music, and typically played on acoustic instruments – guitar, mandolin, banjo, bass and fiddle. Its roots are in the rural South. In the early 1900s, in western Kentucky, a community’s two social centres were square dances or the church.There was no television, no radio. Folks like Bill Monroe were playing the music that came naturally to them. We at the Bluegrass Hall of Fame and Museum tell the story of the genre’s genesis, its journey, and look at today’s artists. A favourite exhibit is our ‘Pickin’ Parlor’, where we have a whole wall of instruments that are meant to be played. Pick up a fiddle and pull the bow across it; take a banjo and strum it.We host ROMP Festival in June, which draws names like Dierks Bentley and MollyTuttle.There’s also a festival in Lexington called Railbird Festival – it’s got a roots focus and lots of Kentucky artists.

Blues in the Mississippi Delta

“Field-recordist Alan Lomax called the Mississippi Delta ‘the land where blues began’.This region is as close as you can get to the ‘birthplace’ of this music. Blues is an African-American artform – survival music that grew out of the cotton fields.There is no rock ’n’ roll without the blues. Elvis grew up dirt poor inTupelo, where he was no stranger to juke joints.

There are over 200 markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail. Among those I recommend visiting is Dockery Plantation, where early Delta blues legend Charley Patton lived on and off for years.We also have fabulous museums across the state, from the small-but-mighty Highway 61 Blues Museum (Leland) to the multimillion-dollar BB King Museum (Indianola). Artefacts at Clarksdale’s Delta Blues Museum include what’s left of Muddy Waters’ childhood home.

In Clarksdale there are blues shows 365 nights a year at places like Red’s Lounge, Ground Zero Blues Club, Bad Apple Blues Club, Bluesberry Cafe, Hambone Art Gallery, Delta Blues Alley Cafe and Shack Up Inn. Our Juke Joint Festival in April is epic too. Other spots to visit in town are my Cat Head blues store, the Bluestown Music guitar shop, Deak’s harmonica store and the monument to the Robert Johnson’s ‘Crossroads’ mythology.” Roger Stolle is a writer and producer dedicated to the preservation of the blues. He owns Cat Head Delta Blues and Folk Art in Clarksdale, Mississippi.

I’d suggest visiting the Bill Monroe Homeplace in Rosine.You can visit his gravesite as well as the Rosine Barn Jamboree – a live concert every Friday night that’s usually got some bluegrass.” Chris Joslin is the executive director of the Bluegrass Music Hall of Fame and Museum in Owensboro,Kentucky.

Singing the blues (this page; clockwise from top left) The late, great BB King has his own museum in Indianola; Dockery Plantation is the place where the Delta blues was born, having been home to legends Charley Patton, Howlin’ Wolf and Robert Johnson, who was said to have sold his soul to the devil to play the blues; the Robert Johnson ‘Crossroads’ monument; the owners of the tiny Highway 61 Blues Museum will often regale visitors with tales of blues legends; Chris Joslin knows his clawhammer from his Scruggs-style picking; check out Roger Stolle in the 2008 road-trip blues documentary M for Mississippi

Roger Stolle on: ⊲ Alamy; Adam Paris; Aysia Marrotti; Fisk University; Laura Carbone; Shutterstock

The bird songs of Palm Springs’ Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians

“Bird singing is the retelling of the migration story of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians through song.Traditionally it would take place in the wintertime, during our Nukil ceremony, after a person’s death.With this song, our people would be laid to rest. First, the creation story would be told in a week-long process;then, on the final three nights,the bird song would occur.

It’s the tale of our migration.We were told to leave our homeland by our creator after we killed him, so we went off in search of a new home.According to our stories, we travelled the Earth three times, and this journey took hundreds of years. Upon the third revolution, we arrived at our new home – which was also our first home. Bird songs are sung with a gourd-rattle accompaniment, made from materials found in our canyons.

There are two events in Palm Springs that tourists can attend.The first is the Kewet, a Native American learning day and market in November. Here you can buy traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery – and our songs are showcased throughout the day. The other is called Singing The Birds, which takes place in late January or early February. Both events happen at Palm Springs High School.”

John R Preckwinkle III is a bird singer and member of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, who are based in Palm Springs,California.

JirAnderson on:

ThesoundsofNew Mexico’spueblos

“We’re still very tied to our culture in the pueblos of New Mexico: our traditional songs, our ceremonies, our dances. And I was at the centre of that when growing up on the Cochití Pueblo (one of 19 self-governingTribal towns in New Mexico).

Traditional music in the pueblos is kind of a sacred space. It’s mostly based around seasonal solstices and has ties to the Catholic church in some cases.There are lots of community vocals and there is always some sort of dance correlating to those songs.We ask for blessings and retell our histories. In many songs you’ll find references to places that have been sacred to us since time immemorial. In Cochiti, for example, we started the year off with our buffalo dances.

Some ceremonies are just forTribal members; others are open to the public.You can check the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center website (indianpueblo.org) to find out about events. It’s about interacting with the community, having conversations and just enjoying the experience. Leave your camera in the car.

I’m now based in Albuquerque, and through Native Guitars Tour (nativeguitarstour.com) my mission is to support contemporary Native musicians.We have regular events across the country, including in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Our concerts include displays by Native fashion designers and art vendors from across Indian Country.”

Musician Jir Anderson runs Native Guitars Tour, a  collective that nurtures IndigenousAmerican musicians. His own sound is rooted in rock and blues.

R Preckwinkle III on: ⊲

The sounds of Indigenous America (top to bottom) Jir Anderson celebrates the music of New Mexico’s 19 pueblos – the Spanish word for ‘village’ that was originally used by explorers to describe both Indigenous settlements across the middle Rio Grande Valley and the people living within them; the bird songs of the Cahuilla have traditionally been passed down orally, with young boys having to commit to memory hundreds of songs that tell the legendary story of their people’s migration. As such, some of the more ancient ones contain words whose meanings have been lost to time

John

Alamy; John R Preckwinkle III; Jonnie Storm; Shutterstock

Kern Brantley on:

Detroit’smusicallegacy

“I grew up in the era when Motown Records was in Detroit, so you could see Smokey Robinson orTheTemptations driving around.The music came from the city. Strings and horns from the Detroit Symphony Orchestra were added to R&B and gospel – and that’s what created the Motown sound.

The Motown Museum is amazing.You learn how producer Berry Gordy started Motown with an $800 loan.At the end of the tour,you wind up in the studio where the magic happened.They have the piano that StevieWonder played. Martin Luther King recorded his ‘I Have A Dream’ speech on Motown Records too.

Motown left Detroit abruptly – but that’s when this incredible underground hip-hop scene grew. Some of the best rappers in the world, like Eminem and Tee Grizzley, come from Detroit. Saint Andrew’s Hall is one of the first places Eminem played. Detroit is still a mix of gospel, jazz, R&B and rock and roll. For jazz, I’d go to Baker’s Keyboard Lounge, one of the USA’s oldest jazz clubs.Techno was created in Detroit, too, and theTV Lounge is a great place for that.

We also have the Aretha Franklin Amphitheatre – a beautiful waterside venue where you can see Canada from the stage.”

Bassist Kern Brantley has served as the musical director for Beyoncé and Mary J Blige, and played alongside Lady Gaga andAretha Franklin.He’s a musical director at the Motown Museum in Detroit,Michigan.

Corey Ledet on:

Louisiana’s zydeco and Cajun country

“Zydeco is basically like a big pot of gumbo: it’s got about 100 different ingredients. It’s the music of the Black French Creole peoples here in Louisiana, and it’s heavily influenced by the blues, as well as a little jazz, rock ’n’ roll, funk and gospel.

You’ll hear the accordion, the washboard, drums and bass guitar. Some zydeco bands also have a horn set.The fiddle and the triangle are more common in Cajun music, which originated with the Acadian settlers.

In this part of Southern Louisiana, you’re always close to this culture: you hear the Creole language (Kouri-Vini) spoken and the music is on the radio.

There are festivals for anything and everything too – a Rice Festival, Frog Festival, Crawfish Festival, Zydeco Festival –and there’s music at them all. I’d also recommend Buck and Johnny’s restaurant in Breaux Bridge, which has a weekly ‘Zydeco Breakfast’ with music, dancing and a special menu.” Corey Ledet and His Zydeco Band perform shows across the country. He lives 24km east of Lafayette in Parks,Louisiana.

Jerod Impichcha’achaaha’Tate on:

NativeOklahoma’s classicalarts

“American Indians are known for staying anchored in traditional ways,while being very modern people. Our ancient music and our contemporary music are equally important, and Oklahoma’s Indian Country is saturated with fine art, in all genres. In Oklahoma City, I often go to the Civic Center to see the Oklahoma City Philharmonic. Together with Canterbury Opera, they will be performing my opera, Shell Shaker – which is sung in the Chickasaw language – later this year (27 Oct). Also in the city, there’s the University of Central Oklahoma Jazz Lab. It’s a place I love to go to because it has so much diversity.We have events at the First Americans Museum too (a cultural centre dedicated to Oklahoma’s 39 distinctTribal Nations). During summer, the public can come and hear the youth learn traditional powwow songs.”

Jerod Impichcha’achaaha’ Tate is a Chickasaw classical composer who creates symphonic works based on Indigenous American history and culture.He lives in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma.

From Motown to opera (clockwise from top left)

The Motown Museum is filled with relics of the city’s early musical heyday; Corey Ledet and his accordion; Jerod Impichcha’achaaha’s opera tells the story of how the Chickasaw received their turtle shells; Kern Brantley on stage

Alamy; Shevaun Williams; Travis Gauthier; Visit Detroit

The Timeless Charm of Azerbaijan; The Wanderlust Story; Germany’s UNESCO Heritage; Untouched Tobago; The Astonishing Azores

Embrace fine food and music in

LUBBOCK

Lubbock, Texas, is more than just a ‘Hub City’. Buddy Holly’s rock-’n’-roll hometown is far from an everyday destination…

Buried deep in the far west of the Texas panhandle, bright and breezy Lubbock is an urban oasis blessed with musical heritage, great barbecue and a music scene that most state’s would envy.

Birthplace of Buddy Holly

Rock ’n’ Roll music fans are likely to have Lubbock on their radar. It’s best known for being the birthplace of Buddy Holly, a pioneer of the genre and one of the most prominent singers of the 1950s. He, along with his band The Crickets, inspired a generation before his tragic death at the age of just 22.

Stop by the Buddy Holly Center, where the first thing you’ll spy is a colossal pair of specs, erected in honour of the heartthrob. Then head next door to the West Texas Walk of Fame to learn about his early life and achievements up until his untimely end.

Buddy Holly wasn’t the only big name to hail from Lubbock. Singer-songwriter Mac Davis, who wrote hits for Elvis Presley and Dolly Parton, was also a native of the city. And even today, venues across town offer the chance to hear the stars of tomorrow.

Wine and dine

Texas viticulture has gained popularity over the last decade, winning over the stubborn hearts of many oenophiles. While many are familiar with wines from the Hill Country, Lubbock is among the Lone Star State’s top grape-growing regions and is one of the key spots on the Texas Wine Trail.

Book a tour at a celebrated urban winery or vineyard like McPherson Cellars and Llano Estacado Winery to try some premium reds, whites and a slew of unique rosé vintages. This city is also where the refreshing vodka and citrus-infused concoction known as The

Chilton originated. Look out for the Lubbock Chilton Trail – an interactive mobile ‘passport’ that lists various terrific bars where you can try this legendary cocktail.

No trip to Texas is complete without barbecue, and there are many terrific joints in Lubbock to try, from smokehouses to food trucks. A great place to start is Evie Mae’s BBQ, whose signature brisket is a winner. Or hit The Shack, which dishes out mouthwatering green-chilli sausages and ribs.

Lastly, wash it all down at some of the superb breweries in Lubbock. Two Docs Brewing Co is swamped with locals every weekend, or drop by Good Line Beer Co for a laid-back spot to end a day of exploring.

A lone star (clockwise from top left) Buddy Holly is depicted in Lubbock’s public art; the city’s live music scene at JAB Fest; Lubbock is a leading wine region; learn about an icon at the Buddy Holly Center; spy vast scenery at Caprock Canyons State Park; Texas Rising is a series of Texas Tech’s Public Art Collection

Mention Kentucky and most people think of bourbon or horse racing, but there is also a thriving music scene here. Chris Stapleton and the late Loretta Lynn are just a few of the musical icons to have emerged, and its multiple festivals are packed with up-and-coming talent. Kentucky moves to its own infectious rhythm...

The beat goes on…

There is music nearly everywhere in the Bluegrass State, ranging from

PRESS PLAY ON KENTUCKY’S MUSIC SCENE

Kentucky may be better known for its historic Derby and bountiful bourbon, but its underrated music scene is a state-wide soundtrack worth listening to…

festivals to distilleries. Driving the Country Music Highway takes you through the lives of greats such as Loretta Lynn, Crystal Gayle, The Judds and Chris Stapleton. Indeed, Kentuckians savour their local heroes as much as they do their bourbon, and are always happy to talk to you about their favourite artists and their personal connection with bluegrass music.

You don’t have to just be a spectator either. At the Bluegrass Music Hall of Fame and Museum in Owensboro, you can even pick up

Live on stage (this page; top to bottom) Jerusalem Ridge Festival in Beaver Dam is an annual showcase of Kentucky’s bluegrass heritage; the Great American Brass Band Festival in Danville highlights the state’s eclectic love of all music

an instrument and have your own jam session. “That’s a big part of bluegrass in Kentucky,” says Mike Mangeot, Commissioner of the Kentucky Department of Tourism. “You’ll find people playing their fiddles, guitars or banjos with one another in parking lots and jamming together. You can do that yourself at the museum, which is a really cool nod to the bluegrass music culture.”

However, there is more to the state’s music scene than just bluegrass. South of Lexington, the Renfro Valley Entertainment Center

Kentucky Tourism; Clay Cook

in Mount Vernon puts on plenty of classic country music and southern gospel gigs, Elsewhere, the state welcomes some of the biggest bands in the world: the likes of Metallica and Red Hot Chili Peppers – which you wouldn’t ordinarily associate with Kentucky – have headlined festivals such as Louder Than Life in Louisville.

Hear it live

The one thing you won’t have to worry about is missing out on experiencing live music in Kentucky. There are numerous festivals that run throughout the summer months, such as Railbird, ROMP and Bourbon and Beyond. In September, when temperatures are still balmy, you can head to Jerusalem Ridge Bluegrass Festival, set in a lush outdoor space. Even the state’s distilleries have got in on the act, and Log Still in historic Bardstown hosts live concerts at its venue every weekend between May and October.

Be sure to include legendary venues that showcase Kentucky’s diversity in your trip. There’s the Lyric Theatre & Cultural Arts Center in Lexington, which celebrates diverse African American cultural heritage, as well as Madison Theater in Covington, which is known for its rock concerts. But for a truly authentic evening, head to

The great Kentucky songbook (this page, clockwise from top left)

The US 23 Country Music Highway Museum charts the heritage of music stars who were born or grew up along the highway; the Dave Matthews Band is just one big name that has featured on the bills of Kentucky’s festivals; the Railbird Festival in Lexington always brings crowds and big names in summer

the Rosine Barn Jamboree, a historic barn in bluegrass-icon Bill Monroe’s hometown, where you can dance to live folk, country and gospel music. Take a tip from an expert: Mike’s favourite hidden gem for enjoying music without the crowds is Beaver Dam, a small town in Western Kentucky. “Their amphitheatre pulls in big-name acts all summer long,” he says. “If you really want to get an idea of the culture of Kentucky outside of its urban areas, go here.” This isn’t the only unsung festival showcasing Kentucky’s wide-ranging love of music. You might not expect to hear the rhythmic sound of deeptoned tubas and trombones here, but June’s Great American Brass Band Festival in Danville is an annual treat. That’s just Kentucky in a nutshell.

THREE ICONIC KENTUCKY MUSIC LANDMARKS

Bluegrass Music Hall of Fame & Museum

This Owensboro museum is a great primer for learning about bluegrass and its heritage. There are many exhibits here that walk you through the origins and the journey of this music in Kentucky. You can easily spend an entire day here, as well as listen to live acts performing outdoors. It offers a true community festival experience. bluegrasshall.org

Butcher Hollow

Located in Johnson County, Butcher Hollow is the birthplace of Loretta Lynn, the ‘Queen of Country Music. Visit her family home, where she was known as the ‘coal miner’s daughter’ and performed songs alongside her sister, Crystal Gayle, about the coal-mining community that lived here in the mountains.

Kentucky Music Hall of Fame & Museum

Set in Mount Vernon, this sprawling museum was once the riding stables of John Lair, who was the founder of the Renfro Valley Entertainment Center – known as Kentucky’s country music capital. Browse through the collection of musical memorabilia or pick up an instrument and create your own sound. kentuckymusichalloffame.com

MAKE IT HAPPEN

Experience Kentucky’s musical heritage on America As You

Like It’s Sips, Sights and Sounds of Kentucky trip, where you can combine its lyrical landmarks with live music. www.americaasyoulikeit.com

A real page-turner

Rio de Janeiro’s palatial Portuguese Royal Reading Room was established by immigrants from the old country yearning for a taste of home. But it is just one spectacular library among many, each with a tale to tell

The world’s most

beautiful libraries

Stories of intrigue and imagination abound in these incredible libraries, which range from royal follies to monastic marvels

Compiled by Gareth Clark

Sainte-Geneviève Library, Paris, France

French architect Henri Labrouste believed that buildings should reflect their origins. So, in the mid-19th century, when he was asked to create the first major library in France attached to neither a palace, monastery or school, he turned to its history. Bolstered by booty following the Revolution and Napoleon’s campaigns, the collection –originally a monastic library dating from the ninth century – had long outgrown the former abbey building in which it was housed. Labrouste created a cathedral of learning influenced by the architecture of Rome and Florence, resulting in an eye-catching blend of industrial guts and neo-Gothic grandeur, every bit as impressive as the architect’s other Parisian masterwork, the National Library.Visit onWednesdays and Saturdays at 4pm for ‘Discovery’ tours (in French; booking required).

Bibliotheca Alexandrina, Alexandria, Egypt

Few haven’t heard of the Great Library of Alexandria, which was said to have contained all the wisdom of the ancient world. Likely established during Pharaoh Ptolemy I Soter’s reign (323–285 BC), its destruction robbed us of untold knowledge. However, more than 2,000 years after fires lit by Julius Caesar’s forces sparked its decline, a successor appeared. Inaugurated in 2009, the modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a story in itself.The curved facade is made from huge granite slabs etched with languages spanning some 10,000 years, and a tilted roof shades its collection of some eight million books.Though its design bears little resemblance to descriptions of its predecessor, the tiered reading room echoes the amphitheatres of the ancient world. Tours in English (Saturday–Thursday) tell the stories of both libraries.

Even in Prague, a city blessed with many beautiful buildings, few sights rival that of the Strahov Monastery, home to the largest monastic libary in Czechia. Sadly, today you can steal only a glimpse of its Baroque reading halls through their doors: access is restricted to maintain the atmospheric conditions needed to preserve their delicate frescoes. But you can get a feel for life in the monastery,

seeing the old scribing desks at which the monks used to fastidiously copy manuscripts, and the rotating wheels on which texts were compiled.The 18th-century Philosophical Hall has the grander artwork, but pay special attention to the cartouches – part of an early cataloguing system – above the shelves in the older Theological Hall, built in the 1670s.Tickets can be bought on the door.

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy

Strahov Monastery Library, Prague, Czechia

There is little that’s understated about the Benedictine abbey at Admont, 100km or so east of Salzburg. Museums stud the late-Baroque complex, showcasing Austrian art, religious artefacts and a surprisingly expansive natural-history collection. But the star of the show is the largest monastery library in the world.The seven vaulted domes of its 70m-long hall are adorned with celestial frescoes painted in 1776 by the

then 80-year-old Bartolomeo Altomonte. Marble was used with lavish abandon, and seemingly every detail gleams gold, lending even the bookcases a Rococo flourish. Day visitors can take guided tours, peeking behind secret doors masked by dummy book spines, gazing at the 70,000 volumes on display and listening to tales of how all this grandeur was so nearly lost in the 1865 fire that devastated much of the monastery.

Admont Abbey Library, Austria

Abbey Library of St Gall, St Gallen, Switzerland

The finely polished walnut and cherry-wood bookcases of the 18th-century library in St Gall Abbey have a hint of a gentlemen’s club about them. But gaze towards the ceiling and the building’s Baroque soul starts to sing. Within crackling, swirling stucco frames

this was a hub for monks practising their art in the scriptorium. Among the curiosities is a 2,700-year-old Egyptian mummy brought to St Gallen in the 19th century. Daily guided tours visit the library; changing exhibitions are hosted in the vaulted cellar.

A literal translation of the name of this grandiose library is the Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading, which better evokes its astonishing appearance. A sense of nostalgia for the old country pervades the building, its facade reputedly inspired by Lisbon’s Jerónimos Monastery.That’s perhaps unsurprising: it was created in 1837, at the dawn of Brazil’s independence, by Portuguese immigrants

wanting to preserve memories of home.What they built was spectacular: three storeys of dark-wood shelves soar up towards a stainedglass dome, flanked by dusky blue walls edged with gold detail.The library’s collection of Portuguese texts – the largest outside the home country – approaches 400,000 items including manuscripts, folios and books. It’s amazing what a little homesickness can elicit.

The Spanish have an expression, ‘La obra de El Escorial’ (The work of El Escorial), for something that takes a long time to finish. No wonder: the palace, monastery, tomb, basilica and university complex at El Escorial, commissioned by King Phillip II in 1563, took 21 years to complete, eventually comprising the world’s largest Renaissance building.Tours explore treasures including

a fine collection of Spanish Masters. But it’s the palace library, completed in 1584, that really catches the eye. It’s packed with globes, armillary spheres, thousands of handwritten manuscripts and some 40,000 books.The walls are decorated with magnificent frescoes and other works designed to inspire appreciation of the arts; however, after just a few minutes here, you’ll need little prompting.

5 truly unique libraries

1 Haskell Free Library & Opera House, Vermont (USA) & Québec (Canada)

It’s rare that you can read a book in two countries at once – but you can in The Haskell. Standing partly in Derby Line, Vermont, partly in Stanstead, Canada, its reading room actually spans the US-Canada border. So readers can start a sentence in one country and finish it in another.

2 Hereford Cathedral Library, UK

Until as recently as the 18th century, many libraries chained books to shelves to thwart thieves. Hereford Cathedral has one of the few surviving chained libraries, housing volumes dating back to the eighth century. Tours also take in the Mappa Mundi, the world’s largest medieval map, made around 1300.

3 Liyuan Library, Beijing, China

This beautiful library sits in a small village on the fringes of Beijing. Covered entirely by thousands of sticks of firewood, it is impossibly elegant and performs a vital service for the local villagers. Just nobody light a match!

4 The Future Library, Oslo, Norway

Each year since 2014, a different author has added an unpublished manuscript to Oslo’s Deichman Library. In 2114, a specially planted forest in nearby Nordmarka will be harvested to make paper to print these works. If you can’t wait 90 years, you can visit the forest and the room in which the manuscripts are stored.

5 Mundaneum, Mons, Belgium

This early 20th-century attempt to create a kind of paper Google, 90 years before the internet, aimed to store and categorise all recorded knowledge. But was it a library? Kind of. Its attempt to democratise learning was certainly in the spirit of the great libraries – and its archive holds an incredible 12 million items.

Royal Library of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Spain

Royal Portuguese Reading Room, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The black-and-white-striped stonework of Siena Cathedral is instantly recognisable. Inside, its vaulted ceiling is speckled with golden stars. But the brightest star here is the adjoining Piccolomini Library, commissioned in 1492 to house the book collection of the 15th-century Pope Pius II.Though few of his original volumes remain here – aside from some extraor-

dinary illuminated manuscripts – Pinturicchio’s magnificent ten-fresco cycle depicting the life of the pontiff dazzles. It’s reputed to have been partly designed in the late 15th century by a young Raphael, who by tradition appears in one image. Pius II died of fever in 1464 while trying (and failing) to mount a crusade, but his story lives on in this incredible library.

Piccolomini Library, Siena, Italy

In approaching the design of Seattle’s Central Library, co-architect Rem Koolhaas examined how such places had changed by the turn of the 21st century. No longer were they dusty repositories lined with shelves, now hosting lectures and classes, serving communities

seeking not just books but all forms of information.The resulting building – resembling a tilting pile of glassy books – reflects this idea. Audio and self-guided tours explore its design, including the central Books Spiral, its shelves twisting up through the floors via

ramps.The show-stopper is the lobby ‘living room’, in which angled walls of cross-hatched windows seem to lean on readers below.The library welcomes more than 2 million visitors a year – about the same as Mount Rushmore –suggesting Koolhaas was onto something.

Seattle Central Library, Washington, USA

Rampur Raza Library, Uttar Pradesh, India

Eight turmeric- and saffron-coloured minarets flank the Hamid Manzil, a dazzling palace built in the early 20th century within Rampur Fort, about 180km east of Delhi.The library’s 250-yearold book collection was seeded long before the building was dreamed up, amassed by a succession of scholarly nawabs (state rulers) from the late 18th century. It survived pillaging during the

Bishan Public Library, Singapore

What better inspiration for a public library in Singapore, the ‘Garden City’, than a treehouse?This was the design spark behind Bishan Public Library, from which cantilevered protrusions of coloured glass jut like Cubist branches.Visitors to these pods –quiet spaces for reading or working – dangle above the street, much as a child might clamber up through a tree canopy to find a bit of peace.The design metaphor even extends to the natural light that filters through the atrium and into each of the rooms, like dappled sunshine leaching through boughs down to the forest floor. In a city of remarkable green spaces, this deconstructed treehouse is still a unique treat – surrounded by urban bustle, yet also an oasis of calm completely removed from it.

British Raj, when many of India’s treasures were looted or scattered to the breeze, and was moved to its current location in the palace as recently as 1957.Visitors can admire some of its 17,000 prized Indo-Islamic manuscripts, 60,000 printed books, paintings and diverse artefacts, together comprising a resource unlike any other found in India or elsewhere.

The Morgan Library & Museum, New York, USA

John Pierpont (JP) Morgan was a financial titan during the Gilded Age of the late 19th century, when unabashed displays of wealth were in fashion. Having amassed an array of beautiful books and manuscripts, he purchased a site on Madison Avenue on which to build a mansion and library housing his collection.Today, it includes one of the finest surviving copies of the original American Declaration of Independence, a manuscript of John Milton’s Paradise Lost and a handwritten score by Mozart.The building, completed in 1906, is every inch the rich man’s fantasy: an ersatz palazzo with walls draped in Renaissance art and a rotunda decorated with Raphael-inspired designs.A public institution since 1924, the expanded museum now incorporates Morgan’s mansion, and hosts exhibitions and concerts.

George Peabody Library, Baltimore, USA

Size can be hard to gauge from a picture alone. It’s only when standing on the monochrome marble floor of its soaring atrium that you understand the scale of the George Peabody Library, established in 1866. Greco-Roman-revival columns soar to the skies, detailed in gold leaf.Throw back your head to admire five tiers of cast-iron balconies glinting in the light; peer even higher to spy the pièce de résistance – the atrium’s 18m-high skylight

⊲

that runs the length of the interior, bathing it in a buttery glow. The size is overwhelming, befitting the largesse of one of America’s earliest philanthropists, George Peabody, who ploughed his banking wealth into the arts.The library’s collection of some 300,000 volumes contains 18th- and 19th-century treasures such as first editions of works by Poe, Hawthorne and Melville, yet remains free to explore, as its founder wished.

Wiblingen Abbey Library, Ulm, Germany

Germany isn’t short on fairy tales, yet even the Brothers Grimm would struggle to dream up the library inWiblingen Abbey. Its Rococo exuberance is like something from the imagination of ‘Mad’ King Ludwig – and that was rather the point. In 1740, the abbot wanted

a building that would inspire his monks.The resulting 23m-long hall of frescoes, painted statues and rose-pink and blue highlights certainly sets the eyes dancing – you could almost be in a royal palace. Plans to rebuild the entire abbey, by then very wealthy, in

grand Baroque style ebbed away during the 18th century, and such ambitions were finally sacrificed to the NapoleonicWars, along with much of its 15,000-strong book collection. Today, the library provides a glimpse of how that re-imagined abbey might have looked.

The Black Diamond, Copenhagen, Denmark

The largest library collection in Scandinavia is split between two buildings in Copenhagen that could scarcely be less alike. One is red-brick and stolidly early 20th century, the other seemingly dropped from outer space onto the waterfront in 1999. This latter extension to the Royal Danish Library, clad in 2,500 sqm of obsidian-black polished granite, is known semi-officially as

The Black Diamond. Its interior is no less striking: visitors slide between the two buildings on a long escalator and, entering the lending section, pass beneath a 210 sqm ceiling fresco resembling a cross-section of fossil-studded rock. In the basement you’ll also find the excellent National Museum of Photography, its collection including Danish and other images captured since 1839.

Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, Toronto, Canada

Though its Brutalist concrete exterior isn’t to everyone’s taste, the interior of the building that houses the rare and special collection of Toronto University is all ‘wow’. A wall of bookcases sky-rockets to the liquorice-blackand-red ceiling, showcasing an 800,000strong collection. With a wide selection of texts on philosophy, theology and the history of science and medicine, its

highlights include a 1623 Shakespeare First Folio and some astonishing glimpses of antiquity. As well as hundreds of early manuscripts, the oldest piece of writing here takes the form of a Sumerian cuneiform tablet from Ur, created around 1789 BC.Visitors can request to see any item, though regular exhibitions offer an easier way to explore this dense and incredible resource.

5 remarkable book shops

1 Livraria Lello, Porto, Portugal

The dark-wood shelves, twisting iron staircases and stained glass in this shop, opened in 1881, certainly create a magical ambience – so it’s no surprise that it was a regular haunt of Harry Potter author JK Rowling. The €8 entrance fee (offset against purchases) does little to deter the wizarding masses.

2 Yangzhou Zhongshuge, Yangzhou, China

Imagine a bookshop that aims to transport you to another place in the same way literature does. A mirrored tunnel lined with books, arcing beams and an impossibly long reading room evoke a Lewis Carroll-esque sense of falling into another world – one far removed from the bustling city outside.

3 El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires, Argentina

A century ago this building opened as a grand theatre, later becoming a cinema – and this palatial bookshop’s past is evident throughout. Shelves line balconies, boxes and stalls – even the stage, complete with velvet red curtain, is now a reading area.

4 Boekhandel Dominicanen, Maastricht, Netherlands

For most of the two centuries since Napoleon’s invasion in 1794, this medieval Gothic church lay abandoned. Then, in 2006, it was turned into a unique bookshop. Shelves line the nave and transept, vinyl records are sold in the triforium, and a café even serves drinks where the altar once stood.

5 The Last Bookstore, Los Angeles, USA

With windows and tunnels sculpted from books, there’s a good reason why this is one of the most Instagrammed bookstores in the world. But there is substance, too, thanks to a vast selection of reads, vinyl and local art to pore over between selfies.

Serving the university founded in 1592, Ireland’s largest library has strong Hogwarts vibes.At its centre stands the Long Room, an early 18th-century hall replete with chocolate-dark wood, vaulted ceilings and blank-eyed marble busts of history’s sternest thinkers. It also houses some of Ireland’s finest treasures, including the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript from

the turn of the ninth century that survivedViking raids, theft and the unwelcome attentions of Oliver Cromwell. Other gems include the medieval ‘Brian Boru’ harp, oldest of its kind in Ireland.Though not the legendary instrument traded by that Irish king’s son to the pope in exchange for absolution for his brother’s murder, it was the model for the Guinness logo.

Trinity College Library, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

Tianjin Binhai Library, Hebei Province, China

When is a library not a library? Designed and built in three years, practicality was thrown out of the window in favour of sci-fi grandeur at this marvel an hour’s train ride south-east of Beijing.The heart of its central hall is a giant white sphere around which undulating

walls ripple skyward, textured like an enormous fingerprint bleached white. Its shelves rise six storeys, yet such was the speed of its build (and due to some strange town-planning quirks) that the upper shelves are inaccessible, with the book spines merely printed

National Palace of Mafra Library, Portugal

This Rococo library is the pride of Mafra Palace, an overwrought jewel polished with ill-gotten wealth prised from Brazil by the ‘Portuguese Sun King’ Dom JoãoV.When it was commissioned in the mid-18th century, however, one imagines that ‘bat-infested’ wasn’t a phrase included in the specs. No one knows how long a colony of flitting mammals has roosted in the library’s 84m-long barrel-vaulted interior, but eviction hasn’t been a priority. In fact, the bats feed on bookworms and moths that pose a bigger threat to the library’s 30,000 or so leather-bound volumes, some filled with hand-stitched manuscripts dating back to the 14th century.At night, sheets are laid out to protect the interior from guano; in the morning, the marble floor is polished anew in time for palace tours, while its guardians slumber unseen.

on; even volumes on lower levels are largely for show.The readable book collection lies hidden on the first- and second-floor reading rooms. But despite the deception – and social-media backlash when it opened in 2017 – it’s undeniably a spectacle.

State Library of South Australia, Adelaide, Australia

Curiously, the story of this library perhaps pre-dates even the founding of South Australia. Before leaving England for the long voyage south in 1836, a group of settlers gathered the makings of a subscription library, which survived the journey to Australia – only to tumble into a river upon arrival. Having been rescued, dried out and given a home on the city’s North Terrace, it shared this location with the state’s museum and art collections until these were decanted into neighbouring buildings.The library expanded, too, but its highpoint remains the 1884 MortlockWing (pictured), built in French Renaissance style with an interior reflecting theVictorian passion for iron and dark wood.Tours, exhibitions and lectures are staged in this jewel of the state.

FORT MYERS Go wild in

Islands, Beaches and Neighbourhoods

Florida’s Fort Myers is filled with natural surprises, both on and off the water. Here’s how best to soak them up…

Green and gold (this page; top to bottom) Bowman’s Beach is one of Fort Myers’ many wild and sandy stretches; McGregor Boulevard shows why Fort Myers is nicknamed the City of Palms

Nature is abundant both in and around Fort Myers, Florida. The trails and waterways that meander through its parks and preserves form an enticing outdoor playground for hikers, cyclists, kayakers and paddleboarders. Here’s how to plan your getaway to laidback islands, secluded wetlands, shady creeks and glorious beaches.

ADVENTURES ON LAND

Capitalise on Florida’s warm, sunny weather as you cycle or ramble through some of the area’s wildlife-rich preserves and parks. A great place to start is by cycling the tree-lined John Yarbrough Linear Park Trail, which parallels the Ten Mile Canal. If that’s too tame, rent a mountain bike and tackle the thrilling off-road trail at Caloosahatchee Regional Park instead.

If you prefer feet to wheels, head to the tranquil wetland habitat of Six Mile

Cypress Slough Preserve to amble along elevated boardwalks. There are also plenty of options in Lovers Key State Park, where you can stroll its Eagle Trail immersed in a maritime forest of strangler figs and Jamaica dogwoods. Or hit the park’s looping Black Island Trail instead, which teases sightings of West Indian manatees, alligators and the shorebirds and waders that feast on the crustaceans and molluscs buried in the mud.

On Sanibel Island, you can hunt for rare shells washed ashore after high tide, or spend time learning about the ecology of the island’s JN “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge on a tram tour or hike. Otter and bobcat sightings are a rare treat on such trips, but the real highlight is the 245 species of bird that feed, nest or roost here, including white ibises, roseate spoonbills and brown pelicans.

It’s not just nature that takes the eye in Fort Myers. On Estero Island, you can delve into the history of the Calusa civilisation at the century-old Mound House museum, which has been built on a 2,000 year-old shell mound.

WONDERS ON WATER

Whether you’re an experienced paddler or a novice, the water offers a chance to get a different perspective on the Fort Myers coastline. Kayak and stand-up paddleboard (SUP) trips let you take on the Great Calusa Blueway

Paddling Trail. This 305km route is loosely divided into three sections: Estero Bay, the Pine Island Sound and the Caloosahatchee River and its tributaries. A short paddle on either lets you get a real taste of the route.

There are plenty of other options for hitting the water. A guided SUP tour of the Matlacha Pass Aquatic Preserve lets you learn about the history and ecology of Pine Island Sound, while Sanibel Island’s Commodore Creek

Kayak Trail often sees playful dolphins swim alongside you as you paddle. Elsewhere, you can explore the mangroves of Tarpon Bay as crabs scuttle the exposed roots of its tanninstained fringes, watched greedily by herons, egrets and spoonbills.

To get a slice of ‘Old Florida’, take a kayak out on historic Hickey’s Creek, a narrow inland waterway lined with verdant palms and oak hammocks. If you’re lucky, you might even see ospreys taking flight and tiny Florida redbelly turtles swimming beside you.

Lastly, the canals and lagoons of Lovers Key State Park, south of Fort Myers Beach, offer the chance to spy manatees feeding beneath the water’s surface. Join a naturalist on a guided tour to watch these gentle beasts lazily somersaulting and rolling between mouthfuls of seagrass. It’s just one of many unforgettable wildlife encounters Fort Myers has done well to keep a secret. But not for long…

4 WILDLIFE SPECIES TO SPOT

1 Roseate spoonbill

Like flamingos, roseate spoonbills get their pink plumage from a carotenoid-rich diet. You shouldn’t confuse the two: roseate spoonbills don’t stand on one leg and have a spoon-shaped beak. These Gulf Coast residents can often be seen in the mangrove ecosystem of Sanibel Island’s JN “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge.

2 Manatees

As temperatures in the Gulf of Mexico drop below 20°C, West Indian manatees seek warmth closer to shore They’re voracious grazers, but despite their bulk, they’re surprisingly graceful swimmers, using their tails to propel forward and their flippers to steer. Spot them from Manatee Park’s waterfront trails and in Lovers Key State Park.

3 Loggerhead turtles

Loggerhead turtles

Life on water (this page; clockwise from top left) Go kayaking among mangroves in Fort Myers; the iconic clock in Times Square on Fort Myers Beach; navigate the region’s wild mangrove on a standup paddleboard; Captain Brian offers guided boat tours around Fort Myers’ islands; roseate spoonbills are a glorious pink colour

haul onto the area’s beaches between May and October, after returning from their foraging grounds in the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean. Hatchlings are vulnerable, so it’s vital to observe the measures put in place to protect them and avoid light pollution after dark.

4 White pelicans

American white pelicans migrate south from late autumn in search of Florida’s warmer climate. They overwinter at JN “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel Island and amid the shallows and sandbars of Bunche Beach. Note the impressive three-metre span of their black-tipped wings.

Alamy; Shutterstock; Visit Fort Myers

Trip planner: Austria

From the tip of Grossglockner to the cafés of Vienna, plot your perfect route through Austria’s cultured cities, vine-filled countryside and Alpine grandeur

Words Rudolf Abraham

Cities of wonder

Soak up gilded glories, Baroque palaces and cultural festivals in urban Austria

Best for: Art, architecture, history, music, museums, restaurants, cafés and bars

Why go: Visit some of the most vibrant, culture-rich cities in Europe, full of history and atmosphere Route: Bregenz; Innsbruck; Salzburg; Linz; Vienna; Graz

Bregenz, the capital of the state of Vorarlberg, hugs the shore of Lake Constance. It’s a small city with an international feel, top-notch cuisine and stacks of charm. Pay visits to theVorarlberg cultural museum, the equally striking Kusthaus Bregenz art museum, and the impressive St Martin’s Tower (Martinsturm) in the Old Town, then finish by the lakeside watching the setting sun.And don’t miss the Bregenz festival in July/August – it has world-class opera performed on a floating stage.

From there you can take a direct train to the Tirolean capital, Innsbruck, a city graced by a beautiful historic centre. Innsbruck’s number-one landmark is the Goldenes Dachl, a Late-Gothic loggia built for the Emperor Maximilian I and adorned with more than 2,600 gilded copper tiles. Alternatively, escape all this history and take a funicular/ cable car up to the mountain playground of the Nordkette.

Next, hop on a direct train to Salzburg.The city’s UNESCO-listed historic core is incredibly well preserved and sports a panoply of Baroque architecture – including a fine cathedral – clustered below a sprawling hilltop castle. Drop by Mozart’s birthplace in the OldTown, then cross the river to visit the elegant Mirabell Palace and Gardens.The Salzburg Festival in July/August is another must-not-miss.

While many race between Salzburg andVienna, it’s worth stopping in Linz – home to the Lentos Kunstmuseum (modern art), Ars Electronica Centre (science and tech) and Schlossmuseum (history), as well as one of Europe’s

most modern opera houses.There’s some hugely impressive street art down in the harbour area, while the elongated Hauptplatz and the narrow streets of the surrounding Innere Stadt have some excellent restaurants.The city’s Brucknerfest – in honour of the classical composer Anton Bruckner – is one of the major highlights in Austria’s festival calendar. And with 2024 marking the bicentenary of Bruckner’s birth, this promises to be a special edition.

Vienna needs little introduction.This imperial capital was the centre of power for the ruling House of Habsburg for half a millennium, and remains one of the most culturally rich cities on Earth. And yet, the Austrian capital is a city with more to offer than the reductive stereotype of ‘classical Vienna’.Yes, it has some of the finest Baroque palaces and art collections in the world, but it’s also a youthful city with plenty of LGBTQ+-friendly spaces and a real joie de vivre Along with the Baroque splendour of Schönbrunn Palace and the imperial grandeur of the Ringstrasse boulevard, make sure to take in the marvels of theVienna Secession art movement, the old Jewish Quarter around Judenplatz and buzzy neighbourhoods like the 9th District,with its excellent Sigmund Freud Museum and underrated dining scene.

Finally, hop on the train and travel south to Graz, a route that takes you along the historic Semmering railway. A vibrant University city, Graz was Austria’s first European Capital of Culture (back in 2003). It’s also a UNESCO City of Design and a place where tradition collides headlong into contemporary art and architecture – in the best possible way. And if that hasn’t convinced you to take a gamble, it’s also the foodie capital of Austria.

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy; Klaus Pokorny

The hills are alive… Beautiful Innsbruck buries its gilded historical centre in the shadow of the rugged Karwendel and Nordkette ranges

Push boundaries at the Vorarlberg Museum

TheVorarlberg (pictured) in Bregenz is the state’s leading museum. Its permanent collection and temporary exhibitions reflect, on the one hand, its responsibility to conserve and present the region’s history and cultural landscape; on the other, it showcases an examination of trends and movements in the world of contemporary art. Reopened around a decade ago, after a rather spectacular and expensive overhaul, its collection contains nearly 160,000 objects covering the region’s archaeology, history, art and folklore.The permanent exhibition BuchstäblichVorarlberg presents the region’s history and culture through a series of carefully selected objects arranged alphabetically from A to Z.The architecture, like the collections themselves, is a juxtaposition of the old and the new: part listed building, part emphatically modern. As if to ram home the latter point, the ‘dotted’ texture of its exterior is modelled on the bases of plastic drinks bottles. vorarlbergmuseum.at/en

Visit Mozart’s birthplace (Mozarts Geburtshaus) in Salzburg

Mozart was born in Salzburg, but moved to the Austrian capital at the age of 25.While Vienna has the lion’s share of celebrated musical venues, and its own Mozart House (one of several where the composer lived in the capital, but the only one to have survived until this day), Mozart’s birthplace in Salzburg remains rather special among Austria’s many musical highlights.The house (pictured) on Getreidegasse has been transformed into a beautiful museum, spread across three floors. It has uncluttered, state-of-the-art display cases, yet manages to not lose the feeling of being an 18th-century house. Mozart lived here until 1773, when the family moved to the Mozart Residence on Salzburg’s Makartplatz.The displays include several of the composer’s own musical instruments, including his fortepiano, Costa violin, viola and his childhood violin. Letters and information about his relationship with family and friends do a good job of bringing the man and his character to life. mozarteum.at

Explore the Styrian capital on foot

Graz sees far fewer visitors than Vienna and Salzburg, and yet it’s a city that positively shines when given a chance. Start your tour at the Kunsthaus, its contemporary art gallery – an amazing piece of modern architecture by Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, which opened to coincide with the city’s stint as a European Capital of Culture. Also known as the ‘Friendly Alien’, it looks rather like a giant organic blob, or sea slug, which has been unleashed among the neat, terracotta-tiled roofs of the old buildings alongside the River Mur. Cross the Mur via the spectacular artificial island of Murinsel (pictured) and wander the streets of the Old Town.Try to catch the Glockenspiel when it strikes, then visit the Styrian Armoury (the largest historical armoury in the world) before heading up the steps to Castle Hill, where there’s no longer any castle (Napoleon saw to that).The iconic clocktower still stands, though, and the neatly laidout gardens offer fabulous views over the city. graztourismus.at/en

Ask a local

“Vienna is an unfinished symphony. From the medieval St Stephen’s cathedral to the Baroque Schönbrunn palace, it glides on through the Ringstrasse to the Opera House and Parliament. The last movement guides you from the golden age of Klimt and Schiele through the fall of the Habsburgs and the dark age of Nazi barbarism, up to its resurrection after the Second World War.”

Klaus Pokorny,

Press & PR Manager, Leopold Museum, Vienna

Mountains to conquer

Best for: Alpine landscapes, hiking and the outdoors, hut-to-hut walks, longdistance trails, wildlife, gentle adventures

Why go: Sublime hiking among some of the most spectacularly beautiful mountain scenery on Earth, plus excellent mountain biking and winter skiing

Route: Tirol; Hohe Tauern National Park; Salzkammergut and Dachstein

Almost 28% of the Alps lies within Austria. It is a greater proportion than any other country in Europe, and nothing defines this nation so immediately – and dramatically –as its magnificent mountains.The Austrian Alps are synonymous with beautiful mountain trails, boasting enough vivid scenery and epic views to last a lifetime. From lakeside strolls to legendary long-distance treks like the Eagle Walk (413km) across the mountains of Tirol, hiking in Austria is a hugely rewarding experience.And it’s not just hiking – Austria’s ranges are home to plenty of thrilling mountain bike trails.

And then there are the hütten. Austrian mountain huts are institutions in themselves – cosy and welcoming, and as much a defining characteristic of the country as its sophisticated hotels and coffee houses, or its breathtaking art collections. They are a place to stop for the night and enjoy a hearty meal, seek advice, enjoy good company and conversation, or just indulge in some kaffee und kuchen (because even in the hills, you should never be without Austrian cakes).

by bus (Stubai) or train (Zillertal). Or head for theWilder Kaiser (direct train from Innsbruck to St Johann in Tirol) or the slightly more gentle Kitzbühel Alps (direct train from Innsbruck to Kitzbühel). Ötztal is particularly good for mountain biking (again, take a direct train from Innsbruck).

From Tirol, head for Hohe Tauern National Park, a vast sprawl of jagged peaks slashed by beautiful valleys and gorges. It is one of the greatest hiking regions in the Alps, and a fantastic area for seeing wildlife and masses of wildflowers. At the heart of the HoheTauern range lies the Grossglockner (3,798m), the country’s highest peak. One of the best ways to get close to this Alpine giant is by tackling the GlocknerTrail, which makes a roughly 100km circuit of the mountain via a succession of huts.

For something less demanding, pick off a section of the Hohe Tauern Panorama Trail, a multi-day hiking route through the mountains just north of the HoheTauern, with incredible views across the Salzach. Indeed, if shorter hikes are what you’re looking for, consider basing yourself in the village of Heiligenblut, in Carinthia. And if you’re driving (or cycling), you’ll almost certainly want to explore the Grossglockner High Alpine Road (Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse), which crosses the Hochtor Pass.

Run your fingers along the roof of Europe on Austria’s mountain trails Alamy; Teresa Kritzinger

Start in the mountains of Tirol, where you can take your pick from among 24,000km of marked hiking trails. Look to the Stubai Alps or Zillertal, south and east of Innsbruck respectively, for an astonishing range of hiking routes, including some fabulous hut-to-hut trails like the Stubaier Höhenweg. Both areas are easily reached from Innsbruck

Finally, you’ll find plenty of scenic challenges in the Salzkammergut region, east of Salzburg.With its 76 lakes, easily accessible trails and the gob-smacking Dachstein massif running across its southern edge, it’s a great area for day hikes. Salzkammergut is easily reached from Salzburg by taking the bus to Bad Ischl, then getting a train; or go via Bischofshofen to access the south side of the Dachstein.

Trek the Alpe Adria Trail

The Alpe AdriaTrail (pictured) is one of Austria’s greatest long-distance challenges – and also one of its most accessible. Starting from the foot of Grossglockner, the route heads south for 750km, through Carinthia, Slovenia and northern Italy, to finish on the shores of the Adriatic. Of course, you don’t have to do the whole, epic trail – plenty of the sections in Austria can be combined for a more manageable escape lasting five days or a week, or can also work as day walks. Start from Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe, which has views across the mighty sprawl of the Pasterze Glacier (the largest glacier in the Eastern Alps), and follow the route along and above the Mölltal Glacier for a week, finishing in Mallnitz, where you can pick up the train. Or start in Seeboden and do a five-day hike across the rugged Nockberge, a mountain range with a completely different character to the jagged peaks of the Hohe Tauern. alpe-adria-trail.com/en

Explore the Dachstein and Salzkammergut

The UNESCO-listed Dachstein massif is a vast limestone plateau that towers above the Hallstätter See. Along with the surrounding Salzkammergut region, it’s a great place to combine day hikes with visits to historic salt mines and gorgeous lakes, which are perfect for a refreshing swim after a day on the trail. Cable cars make access to the Dachstein plateau easy, and there are some superlative trails. But don’t underestimate the hikes up here – there’s little in the way of shade and the summer months can be unforgiving.Try the Dachstein NatureTrail, a beautiful one-day walk that runs between three mountain huts (Gjaidalm,Wiesberghaus and Simonyhütte) and serves up fantastic views of the Hallstätter Glacier. Or opt for the easier Heilbronner Trail, a circular 8km hike that offers some dazzling panoramas above 2,000m. Some of the best lakeside trails in Salzkammergut are in the Ausseerland region, where you can make a detour to Altausseer See for chocolate-box views and great swimming spots. salzkammergut.at/en

Hut-to-hut hiking in Salzburgerland

The Salzburger Almenweg is a long-distance trail through Salzburgerland. Despite being much less well-known (at least in the UK) than many of the trails in neighbouring Tirol, it is a superb journey, offering plenty of stupendous scenery, wildflowers and wildlife. It has a particularly good succession of cosy mountain huts.Throw in a massive castle with some of the best falconry displays in Austria (Burg Hohenwerfen), one of the largest ice caves in the world (Eisriesenwelt), breathtaking views of the Hohe Tauern, the Hochkönig and the Tennengebirge, and you have all the makings of a very memorable three- or four-week trek. For a short taster, pick off a few stages in the north near Werfen and Arthurhaus, or further south around Grössarl.This is simply one of the very best introductions to hut-to-hut hiking anywhere in the Alps. salzburgerland.com/en

Ask a local

“The karst plateau of the Dachstein is very diverse. There’s something for every mountain enthusiast here – be it skiing, ski touring and snowshoeing in winter, or mountaineering, hut hikes and climbing in summer. The Wiesberghaus is a refuge on the edge of the forest: a meeting place for hikers, experienced mountaineers, climbers and families. Dogs are also very welcome. We provide guests with homemade hut delicacies –and on cosy hut evenings, we play Styrian harmonica, harp and guitar.”

Teresa Kritzinger, hüttenwirtin (hut warden) at Wiesberghaus, Dachstein

Culture to savour

Devour classical music, art, crafts and history in museums and venues across Austria

Best for: Art and architecture, museums, music, crafts and heritage

Why go: Experience Austria’s cultural riches, from superb art collections and museums to era-defining architecture, as well as some of the finest music venues in Europe

Route: Imst; Salzburg; Salzkammergut; Vienna; Burgenland

Austria has culture in spades. From the imperial court of the Habsburgs, where generations of patronage funded Europe’s finest artists, architects and composers, to the traditional crafts and heritage practised in rural areas, there is plenty to mull over.

Shrovetide carnival traditions, in particular, come with a distinctively Alpine flavour – and nowhere more so than in Imst, near Innsbruck. With its hand-carved wooden masks, colourful costumes and intricate dances, the Imst carnival takes place every four years, and is inscribed on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. At the Fasnacht Museum you can see masks and costumes from this and other (annual) carnival traditions on display.

Next, take the train from Innsbruck to Salzburg, then continue by bus into the Salzkammergut region to experience why it was made a European Capital of Culture for 2024 (see p114).You can continue by train from Bad Ischl to Vienna via Attnang-Puchheim.

The Austrian capital is tied inextricably to music, with many of the greatest composers in history having lived there. Schubert was a native of Vienna, as were Johann Strauss I and II, Schoenberg, Weber and others, while Mozart, Beethoven, Bruckner and Mahler all spent some of the most productive years of their careers in the city.

Music is in the capital’s DNA, and there are lots of opportunities to catch a concert or festival performed

by world-class orchestras and ensembles. Check the programmes of the Musikverein, Wiener Konzerthaus (seat of the Vienna Symphony Orchestra), Vienna State Opera and MuTh (home to the Vienna Boys’ Choir), as well as St Anne’s Church and St Stephen’s Cathedral. Or for something more intimate, catch a concert in a Viennese coffee house such as Konzertcafé Schmid Hansl. Head to Club Porgy and Bess for live jazz, or dive into Vienna’s underground music scene along the Gürtel, a busy road with clubs and venues occupying the arches beneath the former Stadtbahn (the arches themselves were designed by Otto Wagner, a leading architect of the Vienna Secession).

Austria produced some of the greatest artists of the late 19th and early 20th centuries – Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka, Koloman Moser, the list goes on.There’s nowhere better to appreciate their legacy than Vienna. For Jugendstil architecture, head to the Secession Building (built to showcase the work of this art movement) where you can see Klimt’s striking Beethoven Frieze (and listen to Beethoven’s ‘Ode to Joy’ on the headphones provided as accompaniment). Or head to the Leopold Museum where the permanent Vienna 1900 exhibition places the work of Austria’s artists within the context of the changes that swept society at the turn of the 20th century. Also check out Otto Wagner’s Church of St Leopold at Steinhof, and the Majolica House and Muse House on Wienzeile.

From Vienna, take a bus to Oberpullendorf in central Burgenland to visit the Blaudruckerei Koó, a traditional indigo dyeing workshop in nearby Steinberg – one of only a handful left in Central Europe.

Alamy; Rudolf Abraham

Vienna’s amazing museums

There’s far more to Vienna than its museums; however, they also happen to be some of the finest on the planet, and you really shouldn’t leave without visiting a few of them. Highlights include the Leopold Museum in the MuseumsQuartier – home to the world’s largest collection of works by Egon Schiele, as well as plenty of Kokoshka and Klimt. You’ll also find the era-defining permanent exhibition Vienna 1900 here.

The Baroque palace of Belvedere is another venue with a superb collection – and is where you’ll discover Klimt’s painting The Kiss (pictured). Elsewhere, MUMOK is the city’s leading museum of modern art, and is due to reopen in June following a renovation. Other must-sees include the excellent Sigmund Freud Museum (in Freud’s former apartment), the Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Albertina Modern, and the newly reopened Wien Museum – one of the best places to learn more about the city’s fascinating history. wien.info/en

Take in the European Capital of Culture 2024

The small, historic spa town of Bad Ischl, together with 22 other locations across the Salzkammergut region, is the European Capital of Culture 2024. Salzkammergut follows in the footsteps of Graz and Linz, which held the title in 2003 and 2009 respectively – and it’s the first time ever that a rural Alpine area has been a European Capital of Culture. Around 200 events are planned across the year – exhibitions, concerts, installations –showcasing the region’s long history and questioning how it will respond to challenges in the present and future. Salzkammergut is also home to the UNESCO-listed salt mines at Hallstatt (pictured), where salt has been mined for around 7,000 years. There’s plenty to see: catch the Transcending Borders exhibition by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, take an acrobatic journey through the world of Mahler’s music, or discover the Salzkammergut of yesterday in the photos of folklorist Konrad Mautner. salzkammergut-2024.at/en

See traditional indigo dyeing in Burgenland

Blaudruckerei Koó is one of the last two remaining indigo-dyeing workshops in Austria. This third-generation family business is keeping alive a traditional craft that thrived in Central Europe between the 17th and 19th centuries. Located in the village of Steinberg, just outside Oberpullendorf in central Burgenland, Miriam and Joseph Koó (pictured) create beautiful, indigo-dyed textiles, with intricate patterns and designs made using wooden printing blocks – some of them well over 100 years old. The technique of indigo dyeing and resist block printing is long and time-consuming, but the process also uses no chemicals (making it superior to modern dyeing techniques, which often contain toxic substances and are a major source of river pollution). The results are unique. These fabrics are made into items that you’ll find for sale in the small shop. The other workshop is Blaudruckerei Wagner, in Upper Austria. originalblaudruck.at

A cultural explosion Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier lies just south-west of Maria-Theresien-Platz (pictured) and spans some 90,000 sqm of the city

A culinary adventure

From rural wine taverns to Viennese cafés, Austria holds plenty of gastronomic surprises

Best for: Wine, wine routes, taverns, local produce, cakes

Why go: Spend time in a Viennese café, winery or country heuriger to sample all the flavours of Austria

Route: Wachau Valley; Vienna; Purbach and Rust; South Styria; Graz

Austria’s culinary highlights are myriad, and will take you from traditional taverns to Michelin-starred eateries, with a few excellent wine regions scattered in between.

Start in theWachauValley, a stretch of the Danube that lies west of Vienna, between Krems an der Donau and Melk. This UNESCO-listed landscape is a ripe blend of vineyards, historic abbeys and castles, and is one of the country’s finest wine regions, producing show-stopping bottles of grüner veltliner.The best way to explore the area is by bike, following the charming Danube Cycle Path.Try to combine a day of pedalling with a Danube cruise, taking the boat in one direction (bikes can be taken onboard – reserve a place for them when you book your ticket), then returning to Krems on two wheels.

The star of theWachau is the heuriger.These taverns have been a popular feature of the valley since the 1780s, when Emperor Joseph II granted winemakers a licence to serve their own wine (and later, food) on their properties, in order to supplement their income throughout the year. Both Krems and Melk are easily reached by train fromVienna.

Vienna has some of Austria’s best restaurants, its most historic coffee houses and a kaleidoscopic range of bars. Neighbourhood markets are a good bet for getting off the beaten track, while the city’s coffee houses are legendary. It’s also worth pointing out that – along with familiar favourites like wiener schnitzel and taffelspitz –the range of cuisines on offer in Vienna is vast. If you’re

after a beer, Ottakringer isVienna’s best-known brewery, and does a range of craft beers under the Brauwerk label (brewery tours on Thursdays and Saturdays). If you’re still thirsty, AmmutsØn is a hard-to-beat craft-beer bar in the vibrant 6th District.

Next up, take a train over to Neusiedlersee, the huge lake in northern Burgenland.This excellent birdwatching and biodiversity hotspot encompasses a national park, Natura 2000 site and RAMSAR site.The area is also one of Austria’s top wine regions; in many cases, you’ll even find small plots of vines within the boundaries of the national park.

This part of Austria is noted for its zweigelt and welschriesling grapes (the latter used for fabulous dessert wines), as well as its blaufränkisch.This is also a great place to sample the delights of a heuriger (or buschenschank, as they’re known here and in Styria). Stop in the villages of Purbach or Rust to enjoy a glass or two of local wine along with a cold platter. Boats run across the lake, plus this is another of those Austrian lowland areas tailor-made for cycling.

Now, head to Graz (direct train from Vienna, or from Burgenland via Wiener Neustadt). Graz sits at the centre of some of the best local produce in Styria, meaning the quality of food on offer in the city’s restaurants and taverns is extremely good. For the quintessential Grazer snack, stop in at deli Frankowitsch for its trademark brötchen (an open sandwich with a plethora of toppings) and a glass of wine. Graz makes a great springboard for visiting South Styria, home to the South Styrian Wine Road and more buschenschanks than anywhere else in the country. It’s also a place where gemütlichkeit (cordiality) reigns supreme.

Alamy; Rudolf Abraham

The first bite is with the eye (top) The coffee houses of  Vienna are as heavenly as the cakes they serve; (bottom) heuriger taverns are often family-run and are the best places to try local wines

South Styrian Wine Road

Austria has several exceptional wine regions, and many excellent wine routes; however, nowhere encapsulates Austrian wine, wine making and its wine taverns quite so well as South Styria.The South Styrian Wine Road (pictured) stretches west from Ehrenhausen, close to the border with Slovenia.This is a landscape of steeply pitched vineyards dotted with what look like giant wooden windmills (known as klapotec), which are actually an ingenious means of scaring away birds. Ehrenhausen is just a short train ride from Graz, and the wine road itself is best explored by bike or e-bike.You can also get about using the handy ‘wine taxi’, provided as a free service with a large number of local guesthouses.Along with top-notch wines (gelber muskateller and sauvignon blanc feature prominently), South Styria, or Südsteiermark, is famed for its family-run buschenschanks, which serve wine and food made from the abundant local produce – best appreciated alongside a delicious cold platter (brettljause). steiermark.com/en

Discover a culinary capital in Graz

Vienna’s food scene is legendary, and most of the country’s Michelin-starred restaurants are concentrated in the capital, or in Salzburg. Nevertheless, Austria’s true culinary capital is arguably Graz. With around 300 urban farmers, this city is surrounded by some of the country’s finest produce, from the legendary pumpkin seed oil of South Styria to fantastic hops and apples (more than three-quarters of the country’s apples are grown in Styria). And that’s before you even mention the superb wine.The city has more than a dozen farmers’ markets supplying an incredibly vibrant food scene, from fine-dining restaurants to street food and rustic taverns, with several outstanding vegetarian and vegan options.Take a stroll around the city’s largest farmers’ market on Kaiser-Josef-Platz (pictured), then stop off at the market on Lendplatz with its wonderful food stalls. Stock up on fresh bread, local cheeses and charcuterie, then drag your haul to the banks of the River Mur or one of the city’s parks to enjoy the perfect picnic. graztourismus.at/en

Vienna’s coffee houses

First off, it’s not just about the coffee.What sets Viennese coffee houses apart is their history, the setting, their atmosphere – not to mention the cakes. Sitting in a coffee house like Café Central (on Herrengasse; pictured), with its mid-19th-century architecture and newspaper racks, you’ll be following on the heels of the likes of Sigmund Freud, Leon Trotsky and a slew of Austrian writers and poets (including Peter Altenberg, who was such a fixture that he had his mail delivered there). And as for the desserts – well, a slice of chocolate-smothered, apricot jam-infused Sachertorte is a moment to remember. Some other landmark Vienna coffee houses include Café Hawelka (on Dorotheergasse; once a hangout of AndyWarhol), Café Sacher (on Philharmoniker Strasse; opened in 1876 by the son of the pastry chef credited with inventing Sachertorte), Café Goldegg (on Argentinierstrasse; with a superb Jugendstil interior), and the still local-feeling Café Jelinek (on Otto-Bauer-Gasse). wien.info/en

Ask a local

“What makes the South Styrian wine region so special? To me Südsteiermark has plenty of hidden treasures. The food in a buschenschank is real, regional and homemade – what a joy. And making wine in such humid conditions is very difficult, but we know – and taste – that it’s worth it.”

Tamara Kögl, biodynamic and organic winemaker at Wiengut Kögl, Südsteiermark

Small-town pleasures St Gilgen is one of the most captivating towns in the old Salzkammergut region, and perches elegantly on the 13 sq km Wolfgangsee

Small-town Austria

Take in the mountain air and a slower pace of life in Austria’s lake, Alpine and spa towns

Best for: Food, architecture, hiking, outdoors, shopping

Why go: Scattered across mountain areas and beyond, Austria’s small towns have a charm all of their own, with a boutique feel and no shortage of that cosy feeling of welcome known as gemütlichkeit Route: Kitzbühel; St Johann in Tirol; Zell am See; St Johann im Pongau; St Gilgen; Bad Ischl

Start in Kitzbühel, one of the most beautiful of Austria’s small Alpine towns. Its centre is a mix of cobbled streets and colourful facades, small galleries and cafés.The Kitzbühel Museum is a good place to learn more about the town, the surrounding region and its history. Then head up to the pretty Baroque town of St Johann inTirol, the gateway to the great outdoor playground of theWilder Kaiser.

Continue by train to Zell am See, which sits on the shore of Lake Zell and below the arc of mountains formed by the Schmittenhöhe. From the pretty town centre, walk down to the lakeside, where you can take a boat tour, rent an SUP or have a swim at one of the lidos. From here, take the train to St Johann im Pongau, where you can visit the prominent Neo-Gothic

cathedral and the small-but-hardy Anna Chapel, which dates back to the 14th century.The local farm shop has a fantastic array of cheese, honey and schnapps from over 25 local producers.The number-one hike in the area is the sensational Liechtensteinklamm Gorge.

Take the train to Salzburg, then hop on a bus to St Gilgen. Of all the towns in the Salzkammergut region, this is one of the loveliest, and sits on the western shore of Wolfgangsee. Its main square is surrounded by traditional inns and hotels with geraniums spilling over wooden balconies.You can take a boat to the town of StWolfgang, then switch to the Schafberg Railway to ride up to just below the summit of Schafberg.

Finally, continue by bus to Bad Ischl.This bijou spa town was once the summer residence of Emperor Franz Josef and Empress Sisi, and still carries an imperial air.Visit the Kaiservilla, enjoy a spa, or simply stop at a riverside café for coffee and irresistible Austrian cakes.

Alamy; Bernhard Bär

Descend the ‘Helix’ into the Liechtensteinklamm Gorge

The Liechtensteinklamm Gorge is a place of sheer rock walls and roaring waterfalls, and it makes for one of the most spectacularly impressive short walks anywhere in Austria.The trails into the gorge were completely renovated and rebuilt a few years ago, and the payoff is well worth the relatively effortless stroll. As well as all the galleries and tunnels, there’s a breathtaking spiral staircase (made of steel; pictured above) that takes you some 30m down into the depths of the gorge. josalzburg.com/en

Take in the view from the Kitzsteinhorn

While you’re in Zell am See, take the K-onnection cable car (pictured) from nearby Kaprun up Kitzsteinhorn. At 12km, it’s the longest continuous cable car axis in the Eastern Alps, and you can also join a tour with a national park guide, who will explain the different climatic zones on the way up.The landscape you’ll take in from the viewing platform, just below the 3,203m summit, is worth it, as you breathe in the grand sweep of high peaks, including Grossglockner (3,798m), It’s simply unforgettable. kitzsteinhorn.at/en

Ask a local

“The uniqueness of cheese and cheese production in the Bregenzerwald region lies primarily in the traditional manufacturing process and the use of high-quality, natural ingredients. The cows grazing in the Alps feed on fresh grass, herbs and flowers, which positively impacts the quality of the milk.”

Bernhard Bär, organic cheesemaker at Alpe Schetteregg, KäseStrasse Bregenzerwald, Vorarlberg

The wild side

Explore national parks filled with birds and endemic mountain wildlife

Best for: Wildlife, the outdoors, wildflowers, lakes

Why go: To see some of Europe’s most iconic species, including rarities such as the great bustard Route: Hohe Tauern National Park; Gesäuse National Park; Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park

Austria’s diverse landscapes range from soaring Alpine peaks and lush montane pastures to forested river valleys and limestone plateaus, to wetlands and endless steppe.These incredible habitats provide refuge to an amazing array of wildlife, from colourful butterflies to Alpine ibex, and some fantastic birdwatching hotspots.

Start your wildlife tour in HoheTauern National Park, the largest protected area in the Alps. It covers an area of 1,856 sq km and is home to around 15,000 animal species. The area around Grossglockner is particularly good for spotting raptors, including bearded and griffon vultures, and golden eagles – the Krumltal is nicknamed the ‘Valley of theVultures’.

Next, head east to the steep-sided river valleys of Gesäuse National Park, which is home to a huge diversity of species, including plenty of birdlife, and is a famed refuge for the elusive Eurasian lynx. It’s also easy enough to travel to by rail from HoheTauern (via Bischofshofen).

Finish in Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park, which you can reach viaVienna (direct trains at the weekend). Neusiedler See is the country’s most spectacular area for birding.You can spot everything from little crake (it has one of the largest breeding populations in Europe) to the great bustard and eastern imperial eagle.The lake covers a huge area, stretching across the border and into Hungary. It’s perfect for exploring by bike, and there’s plenty of wine taverns to dip into along the way.

Ask a local

“The Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park is a remarkably diverse region. Numerous habitats are packed into a relatively small space, meaning you can spot over 370 bird species within the park. Many of these can be exclusively observed in this area of Austria.”

Lukas Vendler, Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park

Alamy; Lukas Vendler

Wild Austria

The sure-footed Alpine ibex is just one of the many species you can spot here, and are often sighted above 2,000m

Gaze at bearded vultures, golden eagles and Alpine ibex in Hohe Tauern National Park

The response when seeing a bearded vulture (pictured) sweeping overhead is generally one of sheer awe. These huge birds have a wingspan that can reach nearly three metres, and they were reintroduced into the HoheTauern National Park in the 1980s. As far as conservation goes, the population that now lives here is one of the great success stories of wildlife reintroduction in Central Europe. This area is also among the best places in Austria to see golden eagles (there are over 40 breeding pairs in the national park), griffon vultures and the majestic Alpine ibex. hohetauern.at/en

Birdwatching in Neusiedler

See-Seewinkel

National Park

Neusiedler See is one of the greatest birdwatching sites in Austria. Here you can spot everything from spoonbills to white-tailed eagles, as well as thousands of migrating cranes (best seen between mid-October and mid-November). Of all its many highlights, nothing tops the spectacular springtime courtship displays of the world’s heaviest flying bird, the great bustard (pictured).Viewing platforms are provided so that visitors don’t scare the wildlife; even better, join a national park excursion and learn more about the park’s 370 recorded species of bird. nationalparkneusiedlersee.at

Bregenz

Linz

Salzburg

Kitzbühel

Innsbruck Imst

VIENNA

Neusiedler See-Seewinkel NP

Gesäuse NP Bad Ischl

AUSTRIA

Hohe Tauern NP Graz

Need to know

When to go

There’s no wrong time of the year to visit Austria. There is sublime hiking between June and October, though you can expect snow on the high passes any earlier, and huts to be closed any later. Ski season runs from December to April, with some of the most reliable conditions from mid-January March and early April can be a great time to ski in Austria minus the crowds. Advent in Vienna, Salzburg, Graz or Innsbruck is a magical period, thanks to its snow-dusted streets and Christmas markets. Equally, the long, balmy summer evenings in Vienna, when the cafés and bars spill out onto the cobbled streets and squares, are just as beautiful. Wildlife tends to be species-specific, with May/June good for butterflies in the Hohe Tauern and April to mid-May best for seeing great bustards at Neusiedler See.

Getting there & around

There are various regional direct flights from the UK to Austria, landing in Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Klagenfurt. Flights cost from around £37 return and take upwards of two hours. Alternatively, you can get from London to Salzburg (via Brussels) by rail in as little as 11 hours, with the option of doing the journey by day, overnight on a comfy sleeper, or with an overnight stop.

Austria has an outstandingly good rail network, which is as reliable as it is comprehensive (timetables: oebb.at). Locations unreachable by train are generally covered by a bus route (fahrplan.oebb.at). Austria also has some superb cycle routes, including the Danube Cycle Path and the Alpe Adria Radweg.

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Vienna produces 230kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Currency & visa

Currency: The euro (€), currently around €1.17 to the £UK.

Visa: UK nationals can visit visa-free for up to 90 days within a 180-day period.

Further information

austria.info/en – The Austrian National Tourist Office website has plenty of tips and information for visiting the country’s regions, towns and cities.

Alamy

CROATIA

BENEATH THE SURFACE

For all Croatia’s popularity among travellers, there are still plenty of hidden corners in this Mediterranean jewel to discover yearround, if you know where to look...

Croatia’s popularity is booming. Take a look at its glittering Adriatic coastline, historic cities and dramatic landscapes and it’s little wonder 20 million people visit a year. Long before the TV series Game of Thrones turned a spotlight on the country, travellers have been falling for its relentless natural beauty and man-made wonders.

Sheer variety is what makes Croatia so enticing (and easy to escape the crowds), no matter when you visit. Here’s a culture that blends Venetian, Austrian, Hungarian, Italian and Ottoman influences, as well as more than 1,000 islands, Venetian towns, pine-covered mountains and countless acres of vineyards and olive groves.

Wander millennia-old cities such as Split and Pula, tracing the footsteps of the ancient Romans; stroll the medieval marvels of Šibenik and Nin; or relax in the sophisticated squares of Zagreb and Rijeka where café culture rules. Between Croatia’s islands, coast and hinterland, you have eight national parks and 12 nature parks, all offering adventurous and relaxing ways in which to lose yourself. While some are on visitors’ radars – Plitvice Lakes National Park, for example – others, such as the craggy wildernesses of Risnjak National Park, are far off the tourist trail. Even if you head for Croatia’s honeypots of Dubrovnik, Split and parts of Istria, it’s easy to find hidden corners, especially if you go out of high season. Put these on your Croatian wish-list...

Julien Duval left ); Shutterstock ( right )

A new view (left to right) The uniquely shaped St Nicholas Fortress close to Šibenik; Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatia’s natural wonders

EXPLORE CROATIA’S COAST

With more than 1,600km of coastline and 1,244 islands, islets and reefs, there’s a bewildering choice of places to explore, even if fewer than 50 of Croatia’s islands are permanently inhabited. Heart-shaped Istria, the northernmost peninsula, has a pair of coastal towns that are renowned their architectural beauty: Poreč and Rovinj. The former’s historic core of honey-coloured houses are a joy to wander and its sixth-century Euphrasian Basilica is protected by UNESCO for good reason.

Follow Istria’s coast to reach the Kvarner Gulf and the Opatija Riviera, whose elaborate wedding-cake architecture from the 19th century

bears the tell-tale stamp of the Habsburgs on holiday. Despite being the birthplace of Croatian tourism, this stretch of coast remains relatively unknown among many British visitors. Rijeka, Croatia’s biggest port and a former European Capital of Culture, is handy not just for ferry journeys to the islands of Cres, Krk, Lošinj, Rab and as far away as Dubrovnik, but its lively café culture, museums and medieval hilltop Trsat Castle are also worth visiting in their own right.

While many visitors make a beeline for the Adriatic’s big hitters – Split, the Makarska Riviera, the islands of Hvar (home to the UNESCO-listed Stari Grad Plain), Brač and Korčula – it’s worth exploring lesser-known parts

of Croatia’s wildly indented coastline. The town of Nin, near Zadar, was a medieval powerhouse where seven kings were crowned. Now, people can explore its medieval core before relaxing on nearby beaches and coating themselves with therapeutic mud from the nearby lagoon.

Carry on south to reach Primošten, whose old town lies on a small headland and whose hinterland is home to award-winning wineries.

As you get closer to Split, the island of Šolta comes into view. Curiously overlooked by most tourists, it’s a laidback island of pebbly beaches, fishing villages and olive groves producing oils that give the better-known Istrian varieties a run for their money.

Adriatic allure (above) The terracotta-roofed town of Korčula is one of Croatia’s Adriatic jewels

Urban beauty (this page, clockwise from top) The Venetian influence in Rovinj’s appearance is clear; Trsat Castle overlooks Rijeka; Nin was once a medieval powerhouse; Dubrovnik is an iconic sight along Croatia’s Adriatic coast; kick back on Bol’s white beaches on the island of Brač; Rab is an easy ferry hop from Rijeka

UNESCO LANDMARKS

Trogir

Tiny Trogir, set on its own spit of land between the coast and the much larger island of Čiovo, manages to squeeze in an astonishing number of well-preserved buildings within its walls, despite the island being barely 500m long and 250m wide. It’s a lovely spot for strolling narrow lanes past Romanesque, Baroque and Renaissance palaces and townhouses.

You’ll soon find yourself in the Trg Ivana Pavla II, the Old Town’s main square, where St Lawrence’s Cathedral takes centre stage. Built between the 13th and 15th centuries, it mixes Romanesque with Venetian Gothic styles, but even before you enter, you’ll be drawn to the intricately carved western portal. Next door, you’ll see the sculptures, balustrades and marble columns of the 15th-century City Loggia and its attractive clocktower – both are best appreciated from the café terraces in front.

Dubrovnik Old Town

Croatia’s biggest tourist draw is its year-round appeal, but the summer rush is best avoided. Those wondrous medieval and Renaissance walls that circle the Old Town are a must-see, but wait until the very end of the day for glorious sunset views.

The up-and-coming Gruž district is more than just a ferry port for trips to the islands of southern Dalmatia. Check out its bars, local brewpubs, vegan cafés and museums that peer into Dubrovnik and wider Croatia’s past.

One of Dubrovnik’s premier tranquil spots is the island of Lokrum, just a shuttle boat away. Take a picnic and wander the ruined monastery and Napoleonic fort before swimming in one of the rocky beaches and watching the resident peacocks strut past.

( left page ) Julien Duval; ( this page; clockwise from top Julien Duval; Julien Duval; Julien Duval; Boris Kačan; Julien Duval; Shutterstock

Sustainable experiences

Leave your car behind when you visit some of Croatia’s Adriatic islands, as they’re made to be explored slowly. In fact, seven of the islands have banned cars completely.

If you happen to be visiting Lošinj, you can take the ferry to two of its island neighbours. Tiny Susak has a couple of sandy beaches, a cluster of restaurants and a few rough tracks –definitely the place to get away from it all and enjoy slow rambles after a swim and a lunch of local fish. From here you can take the ferry to equally tranquil and car-free Unije.

If you’re visiting Zadar, it’s hard to resist the ferry journey to little

Silba, where you can rent bikes to visit the island’s beaches, secure in the knowledge that you won’t be disturbed by any cars.

Similarly, they don’t allow cars on Zlarin in the Šibenik archipelago; this was also the first island in Croatia to ban the use of plastics. Zlarin’s even smaller neighbour, Prvić, is just a short ferry ride away and tempts you with time-frozen villages, sandy beaches and car-free lanes.

Come to Dubrovnik and you’ll be offered day trips to the three inhabited Elaphiti islands, two of which – Lopud and Koločep – have also banned cars. But sometimes a day isn’t enough: feel the pace slow

down once the day-trippers have gone and you have the beaches and forested trails to yourself.

Sailors have discovered the joys of meandering through the dozens of islands that make up Kornati National Park. This is proper off-grid territory: no mains water or electricity, not even any permanent settlement. The islands themselves have a stark beauty about them, and are mainly barren and scrubby with the occasional grazing wild sheep. Come in summer for relaxed meals at the water’s edge, when the handful of restaurants scattered around the archipelago open their doors and offer feasts with local produce.

Local lifestyle (this page) Off-grid Susak is where life moves a little more languidly

HAVE AN ADVENTURE

Croatia’s varied landscapes lend themselves to a wide range of activities and adventures. In a country filled with rivers and canyons, kayakers, canoeists and whitewater rafters will find themselves in the middle of a huge adventure playground.

In the hinterland region of Lika, you can kayak or canoe along the Zrmanja River. But once the river enters one of its six canyons, that’s your cue to go whitewater rafting, especially along the 11km route from Kaštel Žegarski. Further north, towards Karlovac, is the Mrežnica River, another karst waterway whose waterfalls, travertine barriers and tufa pools guarantee an exciting journey in a kayak or raft.

Hikers who want to get under the skin of Croatia on foot can attempt any of the sections of

the 2,200km-long Croatian Long Distance Trail. Starting in the easternmost Slavonian town of Ilok, it follows Croatia’s crescent shape to the north and into Istria, then weaves along the Dalmatian coast and inland until it hits the Montenegrin border. Parts of the route have been incorporated into the 1,100km Via Adriatica, which runs all the way from from Istria’s southern Cape Kamenjak to the border with Montenegro. Both hiking routes take you to the Dalmatian town of Omiš, which is bisected by the Cetina River and is worth a longer stop. Not only can you kayak within the Cetina gorge, but wilder thrills await on the zipline that whooshes you across the Cetina canyon. It’s not far from Biokovo Nature Park, whose network of hiking and cycling trails take you

UNESCO LANDMARK

Northern Velebit National Park

If you’re driving along the Kvarner Gulf, you can’t miss the forbidding Velebit Mountains. But drive into Northern Velebit National Park and you’ll see some of Croatia’s finest landscapes.

Wild adventure (this page, clockwise from top left) Northern Velebit National Park is prime hiking territory; cruise through the canyon above the Cetina River along a zipline; feel the force of the Cetina River on a rafting experience

Along with neighbouring Paklenica National Park, the tract of primeval beech forest here is protected by UNESCO. The pristine woodland and the karst mountains of Northern Velebit National Park are home to one of Croatia’s best hiking routes. The Premužić Trail runs for 56km, with 16km within the park’s borders. This dry-stone path was created in the 1930s to make it easy for novice hikers to explore where the Mediterranean scrub and Adriatic views mingle with alpine-like vistas and flowerfilled pastures. Lurking within are resident populations of brown bears, wolves, chamois and, in more protected areas, flocks of sheep, whose milk goes into the cheese you can buy in nearby Krasno.

( left page ) Shutterstock; ( right page; clockwise from top left Julien Duval; Shutterstock; Ivo Biočina

left page; top to bottom Shutterstock; Ivan Šardi; right page ) Shutterstock

to Croatia’s second-highest peak of Sveti Jure (1,762m).

These limestone landscapes hide even more wonders once you go underground. Deep within the southern Velebit mountains are the Cerovac Caves, Croatia’s largest cave complex. Between its various channels you have nearly a mile of dramatic rock formations to explore.

Sustainable experiences

When Croatia joined the Schengen area in 2023, that meant unfettered travel between its fellow Schengen neighbours. Keen cyclists who wish to try the EuroVélo 8 route, which runs from Cadíz in Spain to Athens in Greece, will find open borders as they cross from Italy and Slovenia into Istria. For 1,116km, the route

passes eight UNESCO sites, three national parks, four nature parks and seven rivers, as you explore some 20 stages that range from 40km to 100km each. For much of the route you’ll have beautiful views of the Adriatic to spur you on.

There’s very different scenery in store when you follow the Amazon of Europe Bike Trail through Croatia’s portion of the five-country UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Crisscrossing the Drava, Mura and Danube rivers, you’ll have vast expanses of bird-rich wetlands and waterways teeming with wildlife for company.

If you’re visiting North Velebit National Park, you’ll be a short drive from one of Croatia’s most intriguing sights. The Bear Refuge near the small village of Kuterevo has been

taking in orphaned brown bears since 2002, keeping them in huge enclosures that mimic the wild. Here the bears live out their days looked after by a team of volunteers – from a safe distance, of course. Visit on a cool day and you’ll see the bears moving about; hot days send them into the cool of the shade.

You’re also within driving distance of Grabovača Cave Park, a huge network of underground caves surrounded by educational trails and a protected biodiverse landscape. The largest cave, Samograd, is the only one open to the public – look out for bats as you carefully make your way up and down the rocky steps. From Grabovača you can rent kayaks for a paddle along the Lika River that borders the cave park. ⊲

Escape from the city (clockwise from top left) Discover subterranean drama in the Cerovac Caves; meet rescued brown bears at the Kuterevo Bear Refuge; go cycling through the Gacka river valley

SOAK UP CROATIAN CULTURE

Croatia’s patchwork of cultural legacies is endlessly fascinating. The Adriatic coastline – with its terracotta-topped towns of Korčula, Hvar, Dubrovnik, Trogir and others – gives a hint of Croatia’s rich culture. Explore Roman history in Pula’s beautifully preserved amphitheatre, built around the same time as Rome’s Colosseum. The UNESCO-protected Venetian fortifications in Zadar are another example, and overlooking Split are the

Music to our ears (this page) Varaždin’s Baroque music festival is one of Croatia’s most unique

hilltop ruins of Salona (modern-day Solin), while UNESCO-listed medieval tombstones can be spied in the Dalmatian village of Cista Velika. Head inland and you might feel as if you’ve arrived in a different country. Centuries of Austro-Hungarian rule have left their mark on exquisite Baroque towns such Osijek and Varaždin, whose Baroque music festivals provide a suitably stately soundtrack to all this architectural loveliness. Tiny Međimurje, Croatia’s

smallest county, tucked away in the north-west, adds its own melodies in the form of Međimurska popevka, a type of folksong that is on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. There’s more music back along the Dalmatian coast, where the summer air is filled with the evocative sound of acappella klapa singing. You’ll hear some of the finest klapa singers every July during Omiš’s annual klapa festival. And, of course, the summer festivals in the likes of

Relics of another age (this page, clockwise from top left) Make from local limestone, Pula’s first-century amphitheatre was constructed around the same time as the Colosseum in Rome; hear the soft folk melodies of UNESCO-protected Međimurska popevka in diminutive Međimurje; Croatian capital Zagreb hosts a bustling festive market in the run-up to Christmas; Emperor Diocletian’s Palace in Split is still a magnificent sight

left page Julien Duval; ( right page; top left Zoran Jelača; (rest of right page Julien Duval

Split and Hvar bring together classical musicians and artistic performers.

You can taste Croatia’s culture on a plate, and locals love to honour their dishes with seasonal food festivals. You know it’s springtime when wild asparagus appears, and its return is celebrated all along the Adriatic coast. Autumn brings the distinctive scent of truffles to Istria, while Zagreb celebrates Christmas in classy style with its five-week Advent extravaganza. Even without its festive sparkle, Zagreb entices with its medieval old town, museums and lively café culture.

Sustainable experiences

The Neretva Delta, the largest in Croatia, is a completely different world from the rest of the Adriatic coast. At its mouth, near the town of Ploče, kitesurfers whizz along the sandy beach, while those who travel slowly by boat or bicycle along the river will soon find themselves in Croatia’s fruit basket. Tangerines, watermelons, cherries, nectarines – they’re all here, filling the orchards and being sold from riverside fruit stands.

Stop at a waterside restaurant to feast on two of the river’s biggest delicacies: frogs and eels. There’s a timeless feel about this land; a sense

that goes into overdrive when you visit Narona Archaeological Museum in Vid, which houses the remains of a Roman temple and other artefacts.

There’s more than a hint of Tuscany among inland Istria’s medieval villages, where wine routes take you through cypress-studded hills, olive groves, truffle-rich forests and family-run wineries. Motovun is one of the most enchanting, home to several vineyards and a summertime film festival. In its surrounding forests also lurk prized white and black truffles. From here a squiggling mountain road takes you to the equally captivating medieval village of Grožnjan, whose formerly empty cottages have since been resurrected by a colony of artists, who strengthened the village’s cultural life.

Created in 2020, the 140km Via Brattia hiking route offers a chance to discover Brač’s culture and history. As well as the scenery, there are a dozen cultural highlights, including the 15th-century Dominican monastery in Bol, the Franciscan monastery and St Martin’s Church in Sumartin, and the 15th-century Dragon’s Cave that was once home to Glagolitic priests. One of the most bewitching sights is the 16th-century, cliff-carved Blaca Hermitage, whose museum reveals the rich cultural life of its former monks.

Water and wine (this page) Some of Croatia’s finest vineyards stripe the banks of the Neretva River

UNESCO LANDMARKS

Šibenik Cathedral

Something of an engineering miracle, Šibenik’s Cathedral of St James is the only European cathedral to be made entirely of stone. It was built during the 15th and 16th centuries from a design by Zadar-born Juraj Dalmatinac, whose statue sits in front of the building. Its barrel-shaped roof is unusual, and its cupola was inspired by the Duomo in Florence.

Dalmatinac didn’t live to see the cathedral finished, but he did manage to sculpt the figures in the GothicRenaissance baptistery. One of its most striking features is its frieze of 71 life-size human heads that decorate the apse. The faces were drawn from a rich cast of local characters, whose expressions range from angry to quizzical. Legend has it Dalmatinac used the faces of those who refused to fund the cathedral’s construction.

Diocletian’s Palace, Split

It feels surreal sipping coffee surrounded by the preserved ruins of ancient Roman pillars and grand arches that make up Diocletian’s Palace, which covers a substantial chunk of Split’s Old Town. It was built around the 3rd century as the Roman emperor Diocletian’s retirement home, though he lived in it for only 11 years before he died. Its ruins were colonised by refugees from the nearby Roman town of Salona, setting the pattern for centuries.

Nowadays, the central courtyard, Peristil, is an atmospheric setting for summertime classical concerts. It sits beside the 4th-century St Dominus Cathedral, whose 13th-century belltower you can climb for superb views. The underground chambers hold cultural events including plays, art exhibitions and the weeklong, springtime International Flower Festival.

( left page Julien Duval; right page ) Julien Duval

MARVEL AT CROATIA’S NATURE

Croatia’s rugged mountains offer some of the country’s most spectacular scenery, especially in the Dinaric Alps that stretch all the way from Slovenia to Albania. In 2021, Croatia added Dinara Nature Park to its existing list of 11, giving hikers the chance to explore the scrubby peaks close to the northern Dalmatian city of Knin, as well as trek to the 1,830mhigh summit of Dinara, Croatia’s highest peak.

In complete contrast to this mountainous drama, Croatia’s nature parks further inland offer a mellower beauty amid tranquil greenery.

Kopački Rit Nature Park, which is found to the east of Osijek, is one of Croatia’s richest wildlife havens. Wander along its raised wooden walkways that take you through the

floodplains, meadows and wetlands that surround this part of the Danube and Drava rivers. Birdwatchers will want to look out for white-tailed eagles, cormorants and grey herons, which you can do on an organised birdwatching photo safari. One of the most relaxing ways to explore is on a small-boat tour, which quietly pootles along the waterways, giving you time to spot wildlife and just appreciate the slow pace of life here.

Head further west towards Zagreb to reach Papuk Nature Park, whose Papuk peak was an island in the Pannonian Sea about 10 million years ago. Nowadays this UNESCO geopark in Slavonia’s green heart is covered with beech and pine forests, flowerfilled meadows and emerald lakes.

In Jankovac Forest Park, follow the raised wooden trails that climb up

Blue hue (this page) The Izvor Cetine is the cerulean-hued source of the Cetina River

the valley through primeval woods towards the 35m-high Skakavac waterfall. You can hire a canoe for leisurely jaunts across clear lakes, or explore even further by renting a mountain bike or an e-bike. Pop into the House of the Pannonian Sea visitors’ centre to discover the hidden stories of the prehistoric Pannonian Sea.

Sustainable experiences

There’s a definite sense of going back in time at Lonjsko Polje Nature Park, which sprawls over the floodplain of the Sava and Lonja rivers that flow south of Zagreb. It’s another bird haven, with more than 250 species to spot. One of the most common is a stork that builds its nests on top of traditional wooden houses that look unchanged from centuries

ago. In this serene place, stroll the meandering rivers past oak forests, or rent a bike or a canoe for a different perspective. One of the most enjoyable ways of exploring is on a solar-powered boat, which glides silently to the sound of birdsong.

Among the furthest-flung islands in Croatia, Lastovo is so far from the rest of Dalmatia that it’s practically on its way to Italy. Its actually one of several islands, and the whole archipelago has been designated a nature park. Off limits for decades when it was a Yugoslav army base, it has yet to be discovered by mass tourism. Of its 46 islands, reefs and rocks, only the main Lastovo island has a permanent population. If you

want to do little else but go hiking in the hills, snorkelling in impossibly clear waters or looking for rare birds such as the yelkouan shearwater and kaukala, this is the place to be.

Croatia’s greenest island, Mljet, is known for its national park, which takes up about a quarter of its land. It’s a lush area of forested peaks overlooking two saltwater lakes, both of which are skirted by walking and cycling paths. As the authorities have banned cars from the national park, it’s all the easier to explore on foot or by bike, stopping now and then for a swim in the two lakes amid the whisper-quiet atmosphere. Hike up to Mount Montokuc for the best views of the island.

Green grandeur (this page, clockwise from top right)

Kalamota Beach House on Mljet Island; Skakavac waterfall is worth the hike in Jankovac Forest Park; waterways weave their way through Kopački Rit Nature Park; spy purple herons in Lonjsko Polje Nature Park; Lastovo is a remote archipelago yet to register on most tourists’ radars

UNESCO LANDMARK Plitvice Lakes National Park

Here in the hinterland region of Lika lies Croatia’s first and largest national park: 16 lakes connected by rivers and countless waterfalls, all in vivid shades of turquoise. As you wander the raised wooden walkways, look down to see a calcified watery world below, where the next layer of tufa is being created. In this delicate ecosystem, only electric vehicles are allowed. Boats take you across the biggest lake, Kozjak, to the buses that drop you off at the various starting points for the park’s many hikes.

Away from the busier lower lakes, there’s a wilder world to explore. Trails take you deep into pine forests where wolves, lynx and brown bears live. Not surprisingly, swimming isn’t allowed anywhere in the national park, but you can get close to the water by renting one of the rowboats at Kozjak Lake for a gentle paddle across these incredibly clear waters.

this page; clockwise from top right Darko Kešnjer; Shutterstock; Julien Duval; Shutterstock; Aleksandar Gospić; ( right page M. Tomaš/Zagreb Tourist Board

A MINI SECRET SEASON GUIDE TO CROATIA’S ADVENTURES

Summer in Croatia is a sun-blessed escape filled with sailing adventures, island hopping and the chance to see towns and villages at their liveliest, with festivals in full swing. But Croatia is much more than a one-season wonder; it’s a year-round destination. In fact, many events, activities and sights come into their own before and after the summertime holidaymakers arrive (and are often unique to that time of year), when the weather is still splendid and fewer people tend to visit. It makes this period much more appealing for visitors. Here’s our guide to seeing Croatia out of the summer season.

Spring show

(this page) Zagreb’s vibrant Festival of Lights welcomes in the spring

Spring

Springtime brings a freshness and a riot of colour to Croatia with carpets of wildflowers and fragrant herbs, while Easter celebrations gently wake up some of the sleepy islands from their winter hibernation. Zagreb heralds the spring with a four-day Festival of Lights in March, when fabulous light installations pop up around the city’s major landmarks.

Further south, Split’s International Festival of Flowers brings a pleasant sensory overload to the depths of Diocletian’s Palace in March. On the Pelješac peninsula towards Dubrovnik, the highly prized and delicious oysters from the

neighbouring villages of Ston and Mali Ston are celebrated in exuberant style around the feast of St Joseph’s in mid-March, during the Festival of Oysters. You’ll have the chance to try some of Pelješac’s best wines during the festival, which is marked by quite a lot of singing and dancing.

This is also a good time to tackle the 6.5km walk up the Walls of Ston, the 14th-century fortifications that have shot up Game of Thrones fans’ wish-lists over the past few years. Rather than tackle the trek in the heat of high summer and when the walls are at their busiest, get a head start by coming in the spring. Indeed, hiking in general is one of the joys of

visiting Croatia during these months, especially in May when the Adriatic starts to warm up and you can have a refreshing dip after your hike.

If you’re a keen whitewater rafter, the spring months usually provide better conditions than during the summer. Melting snow feeds the rivers and raises the water level, making rafting that much more exciting – not to mention feasible. During the hottest summer months, some river levels dip too low for rafting, making them suitable only for kayaking and canoeing.

Autumn

September is one of the best months to visit Croatia: the crowds have thinned but the seas have kept their summer warmth. Springtime flowers are fooled by mild temperatures

into blossoming again, and then the autumn colours arrive in all their glory. In a country as thickly forested as Croatia, this means nature puts on a stupendous show. Ticket prices for all of Croatia’s national parks are lower outside the months of June to August, so the autumn is an excellent time to take the boat that goes from Skradin through Krka National Park and gaze in wonder at its waterfalls. The colours of the forested mountains overlooking the Krka River are quite extraordinary at this time of year.

Another of nature’s superb displays is in full flight during the autumn migration of birds in Kopački Rit Nature Park. As in the spring, the nature park is an important stop for migrating birds during and around September, when you can look out for cormorants, eagles and storks.

Autumn means harvest time, which naturally translates into food festivals. To the scent of fermenting grapes during September’s wine harvest you can add the heady aroma of truffles, particularly during Istria’s Zigante Truffle Days. Autumn culinary traditions can be found throughout Croatia, with the winegrowing communities of the north celebrating St Martin’s Day every year on 11 November, an ancient tradition dating back to the 17th century with a feast marking the annual wine baptism.

Dubrovnik takes advantage of October’s harvest bounty by holding a fortnight-long Good Food Festival. Enjoy themed dinners and workshops by chefs that take place in restaurants and some of Dubrovnik’s tourist attractions. If that’s not enough, there’s also live

Fiery falls (this page) The cascades of Krka National Park look resplendent when shrouded in autumn leaves

left page Shutterstock; ( right page ) Petar Fabijan/Rijeka Tourist Board

music, barbecues and a dinner with a Michelin-starred chef. Its highlight is a communal lunch that takes over the whole length of the Stradun, the Old Town’s main pedestrianised thoroughfare.

Winter

While snow does occasionally make an appearance in southern Croatia, for the most part the weather is mild. Even in November, you can still swim in the waters around Dubrovnik. It’s a different story if you’re visiting continental Croatia, however, which takes on a thick winter coat to resemble a frosty wonderland. Wigged in snow, Croatia’s castles have an extra layer of medieval mystique in winter, with 13th-century Trakošćan and the fortress of Varaždin (as well as its

pretty Old Town) blending in with the surrounding sugar-white scenery.

Croatia’s handsome small towns also look even more magical when covered in snow, especially Samobor (just a day trip from Zagreb), Motovun and Groznjan. The latter in particular is home to an impressive local art scene and has a wealth of cosy taverns that offer the opportunity to sample traditional Istrian fare.

Croatia’s capital, Zagreb, becomes very festive at Christmas. Advent markets are held all over Croatia, from the Christmas market that takes over Split’s Riva waterfront to the fairy-tale atmosphere and Baroque streets of Varaždin. Once the people of Zagreb pack up their Advent market in January, many flock to Plitvice Lakes National Park, which becomes magical in the winter when

its waterfalls are frozen in mid-flow and the park turns white.

Winter means carnival, especially in Rijeka. The town holds Croatia’s biggest carnival over several weeks, from January right through to Ash Wednesday. The carnival spirit takes over much of the Kvarner Gulf, with Rijeka’s suburbs and the towns of the Opatija Riviera all holding their own festivals. Not to be outdone, Dubrovnik has two major festivals in February, starting with the two-day feast of St Blaise (3–4 February), and then its own pre-Lent carnival. Proof that it pays to visit out of season to see Croatia in full flow.

Carnival costume (this page) The festival atmosphere takes over Rijeka during winter, as it holds Croatia’s biggest carnival

Search out little-seen wildlife on mainland Ecuador, learn how Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley is bouncing back, savour cultural Houston, and more

A view on history Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal (or Palace of Winds) was built for the ladies of the royal household to gaze out on the city. Now it is one of the key sights of India’s Golden Triangle – a route spanning three iconic cities (Delhi, Agra and Jaipur) that tells the story of a nation; see p198

Alamy

India’s Golden Triangle

If Delhi is India’s political and cultural nucleus, then Jaipur is its royal stronghold and Agra is a rogue symbol of love. Together they offer visitors a glimpse of India through the ages

The Golden Triangle in India is the route between Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. It acts as a captivating time capsule, transporting travellers to pivotal moments in India’s storied past. The allure of this trifecta of cities lies not only in the architectural beauty and historical landmarks that dot the landscape, but also in the sense of antiquity that fills the air, whispering tales of courage, love and resilience.

The starting point of the Golden Triangle is Delhi, a city steeped in history and as ancient as the legendary Indian epic Mahabharata. Once known as Indraprastha, it served as the illustrious capital of the legendary Pandavas and witnessed political upheavals across centuries, transitioning from the rule of Rajputs, Khiljis and Tughlaqs to the era of the Mughals, and later the British, who relocated their capital from Calcutta (Kolkata) to Delhi in 1911, thereby making it the centre of colonial governance. Each dynasty left its mark, shaping Delhi into what it is today: a blend of historical remnants and modern life.

Next on the circuit is Agra, nestled on the banks of the Yamuna River. This ancient city reached its pinnacle under Mughal rule, when it blossomed into a vibrant hub of art, architecture and commerce during the 16th-century reign of Akbar, the third Mughal emperor. By then it was known as Akbarabad, and it gave birth to timeless marvels like Agra Fort, and then later the Taj Mahal.

This thoughtful fusion of tradition and modernity eventually led to Jaipur’s inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019.

Adding to the allure of the Golden Triangle as a captivating circuit for travellers is its exceptional accessibility. The destinations are linked by well-maintained roads and superfast trains. And if you are planning a trip, we’d recommend a visit between October and March, when daytime temperatures can sink down into the 20s (ºC).

Delhi

India’s inimitable capital

228.61° N, 77.23° E.

With a history that spans over five millennia, Delhi is not just a city; it is a living chronicle of India’s rich and storied past. As you navigate through its labyrinthine streets, you can’t help but be mesmerised by the majestic relics that dot the landscape like precious jewels.

DID YOU KNOW?

The term ‘Golden Triangle’ comes partly from the near-equilateral triangle that is formed by the three cities (Delhi, Agra and Jaipur) on a map, with each roughly being 230km apart. The cities also serve as bastions of Indian history and culture, hence earning them the epithet ‘golden’.

Following India’s independence in 1947, Agra seamlessly integrated into the newly formed state of Uttar Pradesh. Its enduring charm, as both a cultural gem and a treasure trove of architectural wonders, continues to enchant audiences worldwide.

Jaipur is the third corner of India’s Golden Triangle. Nestled in the dry terrain of Rajasthan in the north-western region of India, the city’s genesis can be traced back to 1727, when Rajput king Sawai Jai Singh II made the strategic decision to relocate the capital from the neighbouring city of Amer (Amber). This move wasn’t merely a shift in location; it was a response to pressing concerns regarding water scarcity and security. Jai Singh meticulously planned the city’s layout based on the principles of Vastu Shastra (a series of ancient Hindu architectural treatises) and employed a grid plan, giving rise to a city marked by structured streets, bustling markets and majestic palaces.

To immerse yourself in the historical essence of Delhi, visit Shahjahanabad, or Old Delhi. Bustling with crowds and pulsating with commerce, this part of the city is one of India’s most evocative and significant historic quarters.

Dominating the skyline here is the 17th-century Lal Qila, a masterpiece commissioned by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. This iconic structure, also known as the Red Fort, gets its name from the blushing sandstone used in its construction. A symbol of Mughal rule, the fort boasts airy corridors that once teemed with traders.You can also see grand halls created for public and private audiences, such as the Diwan-i-Khas and Diwan-i-Am, as well as domed and arched marble apartments cooled by the flow of a water channel known as the Nahr-i-Bihisht (Stream of Paradise).

Across the road from the Red Fort, at one end of Chandi Chowk – a market area known for street food such as parathas (fried flatbreads) and dahi bhalla (deep-fried lentil balls) – lies another magnificent jewel of Mughal heritage: the Jama Masjid. This marble and red-sandstone structure is the final masterpiece attributed to the illustrious reign of Shah Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame). It commands attention with its onion-shaped domes, intricately designed minarets, calligraphic inscriptions adorning its walls and vast courtyard with room for 25,000 worshippers. To capture sweeping vistas of

Seeing double (left) Once you’ve seen the real Taj Mahal, pay a visit to the sites that paved the way for its creation. Both Delhi’s Humayun’s Tomb and Agra’s Itimad-ud-Daulah (‘Baby Taj’) are said to have inspired its magical design

the medieval sprawl of Old Delhi, ascend the southern minaret.

Following the heady exploration of Old Delhi, head south of the old quarter to pay a visit to New Delhi, which bears all the marks of colonial influence. Here the white, columned arcades of Connaught Place are well worth a wander.These are dotted with international branded stores, trendy bars, vintage cinemas and iconic restaurants established in the post-Indian Independence era. Another essential stop is India Gate, a grand stone arch designed by Edwin Lutyens and completed in 1931. Akin to Paris’ Arc de Triomphe, it is dedicated to the fallen Indian soldiers, specifically those who served in the First World War.

For a break from the urban chaos, discover the tranquil gardens of the Raj Ghat memorial, which commemorates the site where Mahatma Gandhi was laid to rest after he was assassinated in 1948. Next to the black marble platform where he was cremated, there is a flame that never goes out, symbolising an enduring legacy that shines ceaselessly, day and night.

Amidst it all, Delhi’s museums stand as guardians of India’s cultural heritage, preserving and showcasing the treasures of the past for future generations to cherish and admire. Stop by theTeen Murti Bhavan, which was once the home of India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, and is now a museum offering a glimpse into both his life and India’s struggle for independence through a collection of photographs.

Nearby, the National Museum displays artefacts dating back to the Bronze Age Harappan civilisation. Meanwhile, the National Gallery of Modern Art serves as a repository of India’s finest modern and contemporary artworks, ranging from the colonial era to the present day.

Go beyond the bustling city centre to the Mehrauli area of South Delhi and you’ll find the UNESCO-listed Qutub Minar. Standing tall for over eight centuries, this fivetiered tower stretches 73m into the sky and is fashioned from red sandstone inscribed with Quranic scriptures. It proudly holds the title of India’s largest minaret.

As you wander through the wider Qutub complex, don’t miss the chance to visit the Tomb of Iltutmish, a crimson-hued stone chamber adorned with myriad inscriptions, geometric motifs and arabesque designs. Another must-see within the complex is the Quwwatu’l-Islam Masjid, housed within the fabled Ashoka Pillar (Iron Pillar of Delhi) that has stood resilient for over 1,600 years.

second Mughal emperor, Humayun, this UNESCO World Heritage site also serves as the burial ground for over 150 members of the Mughal dynasty.

Finally, to bring the curtain down on your Delhi sojourn, head north-west of Humayun’s Tomb for a stroll through Sunder Nursery.This carefully restored Mughal park has well-manicured lawns, water elements, beautiful floral displays and is highly recommended. An oasis in the midst of the city’s hustle and bustle, it also showcases 16th-century Mughal mausoleums and pavilions, enriching the visitor’s experience with its abundant historical charm and botanical splendour.

Agra

A city created by love

27.1767° N, 78.0081° E Agra’s most illustrious treasure is the Taj Mahal, a testament to Mughal supremacy executed flawlessly in ivory-white marble and completed with filigree scrollwork, floral patterns and Islamic motifs. Erected in the 17th century as a tribute to Shah Jahan’s favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, it symbolises eternal love and was once described by the poet RabindranathTagore as a “teardrop on the cheek of time”.

To truly bask in the building’s ethereal beauty, it is recommended to experience the Taj Mahal during sunrise (around 5.30am) and sunset (around 6.30pm), when the shifting light accentuates its

After this, a visit to Humayun’s Tomb, a sublime exemplar of Mughal architectural prowess, is highly recommended. Often regarded as the trial run for achieving the architectural magnificence of theTaj Mahal, the tomb seamlessly blends Persian elegance with Mughal opulence. Its arched facade greets you with intricate inlays of white marble and red sandstone, while the entire structure reflects meticulous adherence to Islamic geometric principles. Although it is known as the final resting place of the ⊲

Alamy; George Kipouros

A final flourish (this page; clockwise from top) The Jama Masjid is an oasis of quiet amid the bustle of wider Delhi, and was the final architectural triumph of Shah Jahan before he was imprisoned by his son in Agra Fort in 1658; the honorary guard at the City Palace in Jaipur perform their duties with panache; wandering the streets of Jaipur reveals glimpses of its magnificent architecture; the towering Qutab Minar was built by the first sultan of Delhi after defeating the region’s Hindu rulers in 1192, marking the beginning of Muslim rule here; (left page; left–right) the intricately carved Tomb of Iltutmish; gazing up at the balcony of Jaipur’s City Palace; local craftspeople can be found across Jaipur, such as this lady making pottery bowls used in religious services

George Kipouros

pristine surfaces, creating a mesmerising spectacle.While the West Gate serves as the primary entrance for most Indian visitors, the East Gate is often preferred for its shorter queues and convenient access. Keep in mind that the Taj Mahal remains closed on Friday. For tickets, visit the Taj’s official website (tajmahal.gov.in)

For a more sereneTaj experience, away from the throngs, head to Mehtab Bagh –an expansive Mughal garden complex positioned squarely opposite the monument – before sunset.Alternatively, make your way to an abandoned watchtower nestled amid the sandy expanse at the eastern periphery of theTaj Mahal.This offers a vantage point for a sunset panorama of the monument, and is a spot that remains undiscovered by many.

For an even more enchanting experience, reserve a nighttime tour of theTaj Mahal with a small group of just 50 people.This allows you to immerse yourself in the splendour of theTaj between 8.30pm and 12.30am, and is available only for five nights around the time of full moon. Given the limited availability and high demand, securing tickets well in advance via the official website (tajmahal.gov.in) is highly recommended.

The nearby Itimad-ud-Daulah, fondly known as the ‘Baby Taj’, should not be missed either. Perched gracefully along the Yamuna River, it is a tribute to Mumtaz Mahal’s grandfather, Mirza Ghiyas Beg. What makes it stand out is that it was fashioned entirely from marble, and it has been speculated that it influenced the architectural blueprint of the Taj Mahal. However, its pièce de résistance is the exquisite marble lattice work (jali) on its windows.

Another icon here is Agra Fort, which once served as the epicentre of Mughal rule until Shah Jahan shifted the capital to Delhi. Legend has it that Babur, the first Mughal emperor, stayed in this red-sandstone fortress following his triumph in northern India. Within its stronghold, visitors can wander through numerous palaces, courtyards and pavilions. A must-see is the Muthamman Burj, a marble tower where Shah Jahan was confined during his twilight years by his own son, Aurangzeb. It is believed that the emperor could gaze upon theTaj Mahal, his magnum opus, from the tower.

As the Mughal era waned, Agra became a canvas for colonial influences. By the early 1800s, the city had slipped into the grasp

of the British, emerging as a pivotal seat of their dominion for the ensuing century and a half. Remnants of colonial legacy resound in sites like the Roman Catholic cemetery, the Indo-Saracenic St Peter’s College and the Neo-Gothic-style St George’s Cathedral. On leaving Agra, a worthwhile stop on the way to Jaipur is Chand Baori, a 1,100-yearold stepwell in Abhaneri, Rajasthan. Its 3,500 steps span 13 storeys and plunge 30m deep, and it is India’s largest and steepest stepwell. Created to conserve water in this arid region, function meets beauty in this Escher-esque architectural marvel, which captivates observers with the interplay of light and shadow on its intricate geometric design.

Jaipur

The birth of the Pink City

26.9124° N, 75.7873° E

En route to Jaipur, consider a brief detour to Fatehpur Sikri, approximately 35km from Agra. Founded by Mughal emperor Akbar, this red sandstone city briefly served as the capital of the Mughal empire in the late 16th century. Though it was deserted shortly after its establishment, Fatehpur Sikri ⊲

Listening to the winds (left page) The honeycomb-like Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) is one of the more dazzling architectural sights in the Pink City of Jaipur, though it was something of a gilded cage. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh to allow the women of the royal household to observe life outside the palace from behind the royal walls and to watch the processions that would meander through the city streets; (this page, left–right) inside the Maharaja’s private apartments in the City Palace of Jaipur; visitors explore the mosque within the Taj Mahal complex

remains a beautiful ghost town, seemingly frozen in time. Of particular note here is the Buland Darwaza (Victory Gate), which, at 54m high, holds the distinction of being the tallest of its kind in the world.

Beyond the meticulously carved entrance lies the white marble mausoleum of Sufi saint Salim Chishti. Around it the palace complex unfolds, showcasing a captivating blend of Islamic and Hindu architectural styles. Among the various structures, the residence of Akbar’s chief consort, Jodha Bai, stands out as the most detailed. Other noteworthy edifices include the five-storey Panch Mahal, which was the recreational quarters for royal women, and the Daulat Khana-i-Khas, which housed Akbar’s private chambers.

In Jaipur, a popular starting point is the Old City, which was painted pink back in 1876 to welcome the then Prince of Wales, earning Jaipur the moniker the ‘Pink City’. This unique hue not only adds to its aesthetic charm but also embodies the city’s warmth and hospitality. Hours melt away in the old walled quarter, as you spend your time peeking into hidden alleys and shopping at bazaars like Johari and Tripolia.The stalls

offer a wealth of artisanal treasures, from meenakari (enamel work) jewellery to traditional lac bangles and colourful fabrics.

The star, naturally, is the City Palace, a vast complex showcasing a fusion of Rajput and Mughal architecture.The building is active to this day, with the royal family still residing in one wing. Meanwhile, visitors can marvel at the craftsmanship of the four themed gates found in the inner courtyard of the complex and gape at the royal artefacts –including weaponry and garments once worn by kings and queens – which are displayed in a museum housed within Mubarak Mahal.

Located across from the City Palace, the terracotta-hued Hawa Mahal (or Palace of Winds) stands as a quintessential emblem of Jaipur. Erected in the late 18th century, this palace boasts more than 950 latticework windows, almost giving it the appearance of a beehive. These windows – designed to allow gentle breezes to grace the inner chambers – once served as a sanctuary for the royal women, allowing them to observe the bustling life of the streets below without compromising their privacy.

To the south of the City Palace, an attraction of a different kind awaits. Jantar

Mantar is an 18th-century astronomical observatory.This UNESCO World Heritage site offers insight into the methods of astronomers in an era that pre-dates telescopes.With its assemblage of 19 astrological instruments, visitors can marvel at the wonders of the cosmos and partake in identifying heavenly bodies without depending on modern technology like smartphones. And for Instagram-worthy moments, visit the Patrika Gate, which is adorned with traditional Rajasthani artwork.

For a break from the centre, take a trip out to Amer (Amber) Fort, a 16th-century palace complex situated atop the Aravalli range that commands a panoramic vista of Maota Lake. The fort is divided into four tiers, each boasting its own courtyard. Among its many highlights, the Sheesh Mahal is decorated with glass and mirror work, and the Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) is adorned with finely carved marble relief panels that are an absolute must-visit to fully experience the fort’s grandeur.

A gentle uphill stroll of a kilometre-anda-half from Amer will bring you to the 18th-century Jaigarh Fort, built by Rajput ruler Jai Singh II with the purpose of ⊲

A lakeside stroll (this page) A woman sits on the banks of Man Sagar Lake, a man-made reservoir first created on the fringes of Jaipur around the start of the 17th century. The lake is home to the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), which was originally conceived as a royal hunting lodge, but has been partly submerged by the lake waters and has had to be restored in recent years. Sadly, visitors are no longer allowed to go inside; (right page; top–bottom) the Amer (Amber) Fort complex is riddled with underground tunnels that link it with nearby Jaigarh Fort; Fatehpur Sikri was founded as the capital of the Mughal Empire in 1571

Alamy; George Kipouros

safeguarding Amer Fort.The two are linked by a labyrinth of subterranean passages. One notable attraction here is the ‘Jaivana’, once hailed as the world’s largest wheeled cannon.The fort also encompasses numerous palaces, quaint temples and gardens.

For memorable panoramas of Jaipur, venture to Nahargarh Fort, which sits perched atop a scenic hill. Constructed as a regal sanctuary in the 18th century, the fort boasts the splendid Madhavendra Palace, which is adorned with flower motifs and murals. Inside you’ll find the king’s residence, which is embellished with intricate frescoes, as well as nine identical suites for his queens, temples and airy pavilions.

A visit to Rajasthan’s capital city is incomplete without immersing yourself in its vibrant arts and crafts scene. For a space that spotlights craftsmanship from across India, stop by the Jawahar Kala Kendra arts centre.And for those with a penchant for hand-painted textile art, Anokhi Museum is worth a visit. It is situated within a restored haveli (or traditional mansion) and is conveniently located about a kilometre from Amer Fort.

Anokhi museum hosts an impressive permanent collection that encompasses traditional and contemporary block-printed textiles alongside finely crafted wooden implements used in the hand-printing process. Thoughtfully curated displays elucidate the various stages of printing, while revolving exhibitions delve into specific materials or printing techniques. Moreover, the museum’s education centre facilitates demonstrations and workshops catering to both enthusiasts and tourists seeking to deepen their understanding of the craft. For those inclined towards acquiring handmade fabrics, an on-site shop offers a selection of exquisite pieces.

For a more immersive experience, venture to Sanganer, about 14km from Jaipur. Renowned as a hub for the creation of block-printed fabrics, this town offers an opportunity to directly engage with Indigenous artisans and even try your hand at this craft within its lively workshops.

Festivals

India Art Fair, Delhi

This four-day event – held in February every year – is a celebration of modern and contemporary artworks by both renowned and up-and-coming artists hailing from across India and South Asia. A diverse range of artistic mediums and styles, from painting and sculpture to multimedia installations, digital art and live art demonstrations, is on display. There is also a series of discussions and hands-on workshops facilitated by esteemed artists, curators and collectors. Tickets are available on the festival website or at the NSIC Exhibition Ground venue. indiaartfair.in

Taj Mahotsav, Agra

Taking place annually over a period of ten days in February at Shilpgram village (barely a kilometre from the Taj Mahal), this festival showcases India’s diverse cultural tapestry and Mughal heritage. Featuring captivating displays of Tribal art, folk music and dance performances, and an eclectic array of culinary delights

from across the nation, this event offers a kaleidoscope of experiences. Added to the festivities is a fun fair with merry-go-rounds, train rides, games and a ferris wheel, ensuring a playful end to the day’s cultural experiences. tajmahotsav.org

Jaipur Literature Festival

Every winter, in late January or early February, Jaipur transforms into a bustling hub as both Indian and international writers converge on the city for the world’s largest free literary festival. Over the course of five days, its venues play host to a plethora of music events, readings, and discussions. Attendees have the opportunity to purchase authors’ books and even have them signed. Moreover, the festival boasts a variety of stalls selling everything from food to exquisite handicrafts. As the day’s literary sessions – which delve into ancient and modern literature, poetry, politics, culture, society and numerous other topics – draw to a close, the evenings come alive with captivating musical performances. jaipurliteraturefestival.org

A way with words (top) Book lovers descend on the Jaipur Literature Festival, which has hosted around 2,000 speakers in the last 16 years; (below) Nahargarh Fort is said to have been named after a dead prince whose spirit disrupted its construction in 1734

Stay here...

ImperialDelhi

A hotel that needs no introduction. This iconic Delhi establishment has hosted movie stars, literary greats and even statesmen such as Mahatma Gandhi. Its elegance remains undiminished, thanks to its graceful marble hallways, Art Deco ballroom, pillared verandahs and a curated collection of more than 5,000 pieces of artwork from the 17th and 18th centuries. Do not miss the high tea in the light-filled Atrium café; it’s a quintessential Delhi experience. Doubles from £181 per night. theimperialindia.com

Rambagh Palace, Jaipur

Once the residence of Jaipur’s last maharajas, today this Taj hotel welcomes all to its 19 hectares of grounds. Just a glimpse of the Mughal gardens and lobby – adorned with the scalloped arches characteristic of the Rajput architectural style – hints as to its past. Elsewhere, the Suvarna Mahal dining room is decorated in an 18th-century French style with grand chandeliers and frescoes. Rooms carry off a similarly vintage vibe, complete with tile-and-mirror mosaics, fabrics and silk drapes inspired by Rajasthan’s art and landscapes, as well as domed wooden ceilings. And if you want to learn more about the city’s heritage, the hotel is less than a 15-minute drive from the architectural marvels of Old Jaipur, such as the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds). Doubles from £384 per night. tajhotels.com

The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra

With a location that overlooks the Taj Mahal – just 650m away – and a grandeur reminiscent of the Mughal era, guests will find the view here just as pleasing when they turn away from the windows. Rooms feature inlaid-wood furnishings, hand-woven rugs, teak floors and ornate lattice screens, all complemented by original artwork and headboards adorned with Mughal motifs. If you get peckish, the choice is between an Italian-concept all-day restaurant or a dinneronly venue offering Mughal fare. Doubles from £308 per night. oberoihotels.com

The Oberoi Vanyavilas Wildlife Resort, Ranthambore

Fancy seeing tigers, leopards and deer in their natural habitat? The Oberoi Vanyavilas Wildlife Resort, located on the border of Ranthambore National Park, turns these wildlife fantasies into reality, albeit with a dash of luxury. A private jungle safari in a 4WD vehicle is just one facet of the hotel’s allure; guests can also partake in guided nature walks, birdwatching or block-printing sessions guided by local artisans. And if all these activities have left you feeling drained, there are cures back at the hotel. Choose from yoga sessions, Ayurvedic massages in the haveli-style spa or a dip in the pool. As for accommodation, there are tented camps featuring clawfoot bathtubs, garden views, four-posters and teak-wood floors. Tents from £509 per night. oberoihotels.com

India

Need to know

Gettingthere &around

AirIndia(airindia.com), British Airways (ba.com), VirginAtlantic (virginatlantic.com) and Vistara (airvistara.com) all fly non-stop from London Heathrow to New Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport. Flights cost from £674 return and take around nine hours.

From Delhi, you can reach Agra by train via the Shatabdi Express at New Delhi Railway Station or Vande Bharat Express at Hazrat Nizamuddin. The journey takes around two hours. From Agra, its typically a further four hours by rail to Jaipur. Book tickets in advance at stations, via the government booking site IRCTC (irctc.co.in) or with Make My Trip (makemytrip.com).

Currency&visa

Currency: Indian rupee (INR), currently INR105 to the UK£. Visa: UK nationals can apply for an e-tourist visa online (£45; indianvisaonline.gov.in) for stays of up to 30 days.

The trip

Wanderlust recommends India specialist Transindus (transindus. co.uk), which is celebrating its 35th anniversary this year. Its nine-day Golden Triangle & Tigers group tour includes a visit to Old Delhi’s Jama Masjid and the Red Fort, a drive through ‘Lutyens’ Delhi ‘, and trips to Humayun’s Tomb and the Qutab Minar. In Agra, guests visit the iconic Taj Mahal and Agra Fort, then continue on to Ranthambore for a tiger safari. The trip finishes among the forts, palaces and bazaars of the Pink City of Jaipur. From £1,445 per person, excluding international flights.

Houston, Texas, USA

There’s much more to Houston than just oil! This Texan arts hub deserves credit for the sheer breadth of its cultural landscape

When considering which American cities have the highest concentration of museums and cultural centres, Houston doesn’t usually spring to mind. Known primarily as a centre for the oil and gas industry – though NASA’s spectacular Lyndon B Johnson Space Center runs a close second – few would pick it as an important hub for culture and the arts.Yet visitors will find no shortage of options in a city of more than 150 institutions, including some world-class museums that rank among the largest and most visited in North America.

The epicentre for culture in Houston is the Museum District, a downtown precinct spanning 3.8 sq km and comprised of 19 museums and institutions within walking distance of each other. Eleven of these offer free access yearround, while others provide free entry on certain weekdays.

Unusually for an American metropolis, the district has a park-like feel. It’s easy to get around by foot or bicycle, and it’s well served by the METRORail system. In between museum and gallery visits, you can also stroll to

Hermann Park for its serene Japanese Garden, which offers a welcome respite from the city’s famously muggy weather.

Beyond the Museum District, but still in downtown, lies the village-cum-museum known as The Heritage Society. Set in Sam Houston Park, it spans ten historic buildings that date from 1823 to 1905, and features a rich programme of tours and events. A little further out from downtown, in River Oaks, the Bayou Bend Collection and Gardens houses one of the foremost collections of American decorative arts (1620–1870), and operates as a satellite of the city’s globally renowned Museum of Fine Arts.

The performing arts are particularly well supported here. Remarkably, Houston is one of the few American cities to have resident companies in theatre, ballet, classical music and opera. Its 17-block Theater District is second only to NewYork’s Broadway in the number of seats on offer. As the cultural hub of Texas, it competes with the major EastCoast cities for international touring events and exhibits. Best of all, getting a ticket here may well be a lot easier compared with its better-known cultural counterparts.

Finding the gems (clockwise from left) The McGovern Centennial Gardens at Hermann Park offers a green retreat between museums and is home to 55,000 flowers; George Bellows’ 1924 ‘Dempsey and Firpo’ painting is part of the Houston Museum of Fine Arts collection; The Menil Collection building was designed by star architect Renzo Piano; more than 450 gems and mineral specimens are on display in Cullen Hall at the Houston Museum of Natural Science

Alamy; Shutterstock

Houston Museum of Natural Science

One of the oldest natural history museums in North America, this venerable institution is also in the top ten of the most-visited museums in the USA.The stellar temporary exhibition programme is a large contributor to this enduring popularity, though the educational programme is also significant and is open to all visitors.

Boasting a labyrinthine collection of buildings, visitors are inevitably drawn to the vast Morian Hall of Paleontology.With more than 60 large skeleton mounts, including three T-Rexes, the gallery is a winner not just with the younger crowd but anyone interested in our planet’s early inhabitants. One unique, and trendsetting, attraction is the Wiess Energy Hall, which has interactive displays that draw from the city’s powerhouse industry: oil. Its multimedia galleries are themed around energetics, petroleum geology and oil exploration. hmns.org

The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston

This impressive museum has grown from humble beginnings – as the first art museum in Texas and one of the oldest in the American West – to become a globally significant institution. It now ranks as the 12th-largest art museum in the world, based on gallery space. Within its inventory of about 70,000 works from around the globe, the collection is particularly strong on early American decorative arts and 20th-century European and American art.

The museum is also renowned for its temporary exhibitions.These range from the kind of blockbuster shows that have come to define the modern museum era to curating its own ground-breaking events.

A defining moment came in 2002, when it launched ‘The Quilts of Gee’s Bend’, an original exhibition that brought the littleknown African-American community of Gee’s Bend, Alabama, to wider attention.This toured the US, then later the world, to great acclaim.The museum has

its own campus, and you will need to allow at least a half day to even sample its exhibitions. mfah.org

The Heritage Society

In a city of modern skyscrapers and glistening apartment buildings, The Heritage Society museum at Sam Houston Park preserves a dash of the oldTexas.This ensemble of historic buildings has an open-air-museum feel, and it has been crucial to safeguarding the city’s heritage. Founded in 1954 by locals outraged at the potential demolition of the 1847 Kellum-Noble House, it has since grown to include a further nine historic buildings, each relocated to the park from across the city.Though many other examples have been lost to Houston’s rapid growth and modernisation, what survives here is thanks entirely toThe Heritage Society’s heroic efforts.

In turn, visitors will discover a well-curated vision of life in Houston between the early 1800s and mid-1900s. But be aware that not all buildings are open at the same time, and you may need to join a pre-booked tour to get the best out of a visit. In particular, the site’s ‘From Plantation to Emancipation –The Freedom Experience’ tour offers an emotional insight into the history and hardships of slavery in the city. heritagesociety.org

The Menil Collection

The once-private collection of the de Menil family fills the ‘Modern art’ gap in the Museum District. Set in an architecturally acclaimed building designed by Renzo Piano, its galleries are beautifully lit with slithers of sunlight.

The collection has a strong focus on earlyto-mid-20th-century works, including those of René Magritte, Jackson Pollock and Pablo Picasso. It also boasts an extensive collection of Pop art and contemporary art, including highlights of the work of American pioneers Andy Warhol, Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg and Mark Rothko.The museum’s small holdings of antiquities and works of Byzantine and medieval art are passable. menil.org

BEST OF THE REST

1940 Air Terminal Museum

The building is the star of this small but excellent museum. Housed in the former Houston Municipal Airport, this may be the only remaining intact Art Deco airport building in the world. Inside, the collection showcases the city’s aviation history and a small number of historic aircraft. 1940airterminal.org

Houston Museum of African American Culture

More of a cultural centre than a museum, the extensive and varied programme of events and temporary exhibitions found here showcase the city’s rich African American culture. Admission is free but opening hours/days are limited. hmaac.org

Holocaust Museum Houston

One of the gems of the Museum District, this is among the largest museums in the world dedicated to the horrors of the Holocaust. The emotionally powerful Holocaust Gallery is filled with artefacts donated by survivors who settled in the Houston area. hmh.org

Sleeps

The Four Seasons Hotel Houston is ideally positioned for exploring the city’s Museum District, and staff can also arrange tickets and tours. fourseasons.com/houston

For a complete list of museums, temporary exhibitions and cultural events around Houston, visit the city’s official website at VisitHouston.com

Ecuador

Mainland Ecuador isn’t just a jumping-off point for the Galápagos Islands. Amid its Andean foothills, Amazon rainforest and dry south, you will find Latin America’s most underrated wildlife escape, writes Norby Lopez

Located in the north-west corner of South America, Ecuador is one of the 17 most biodiverse countries on Earth – despite being little more than the size of the UK.And while most people immediately think of the Galapagos Islands when it comes to wildlife tourism here, that overlooks the 48% of its territory that is covered by the tropical forests of the Amazon basin.There is incredible wildlife and unforgettable landscapes to be found on the mainland, which many travellers miss out on.

Because of Ecuador’s equatorial location, and the difference in altitude between localities caused by having the Andes mountains cut an unwavering path across the country, different territories experience vastly different seasonal weather. So, when attempting a birding or wildlife itinerary, it’s wise to prepare for all types of elevations and conditions – often on the same day! With that in mind, you can easily visit Ecuador year-round, though which part of the country you should head to will depend on what you want to encounter and experience.

Although Ecuador is one of the smallest countries in South America, it has the fourth-highest avian diversity of any nation in the world, with an official list of some 1,736

species of bird.Tourism was relatively quick to catch on to this, with birdwatching trips starting here in the late 1960s. By 2006, a national strategy was developed for this activity by researchers, communities, conservation organisations and the Ministry of Tourism, helping to create a more sustainable industry for birdwatching.

As ever with nature-minded escapes, a knowledgeable guide is invaluable in making the most of Ecuador’s birdlife. Travellers arriving today to catch a glimpse of the national bird, the Andean condor (Vultur gryphus), will find plenty of tour options amid the volcanoes and slopes of the Andes. Similarly, Ecuador is home to more than a third (136 species) of all hummingbird species in the Americas, and guides can help you to identify where and when to see them.

Aside from the UNESCO-listed Galápagos Islands, which became the country’s first national park in 1959, Ecuador counts an additional six biosphere reserves and more than 70 protected natural areas. From colonial Quito – the first capital city ever to gainWorld Heritage status –you can connect with the Amazon lowlands, the Pacific Ocean or the dry forests of the southern region. It’s just a matter of working out what wildlife you’d rather see.

Main attraction (this page; top to bottom) The shy spectacled bear is the largest carnivore in South America, though it poses no threat to humans; the Ecuadorian hillstar is typically found above 3,500m in the Ecuadorian

Yasuni National Park

This park offers prime access to the lowland Amazon rainforest of Ecuador, opening up one of the richest and most biodiverse places on our planet. Its forests harbour over 600 bird species and more than 12 types of monkey, as well as giant otters, sloths, jaguars and five other species of wild cat.To get deep into the forests, you’ll need to take a riverboat tour or stay in a nearby jungle lodge, where there are canopy towers and walkways that offer the chance to observe elusive birds on their own terms. Set aside a week to also take in the harpy eagles of Limoncocha and river dolphins of Cuyabeno in reserves around the area. Best for: Jaguars. But while this wild cat is high on most must-see lists, the park’s clay licks are just as appealing and attract large numbers of parrots, macaws, parakeets and mammals.

The Cloud Forests

The western and eastern slopes of the Andes are home to sprawling, misty cloud forests that lie between 800m and 1,500m.These evergreen areas are home to some of Ecuador’s highest concentrations of birdlife, ranging from hummingbirds and colourful tanagers to mountain toucans.You’ll also find larger mammals such as the mountain (woolly) tapir, puma and the only bear species found in South America: the spectacled bear. Most public and private reserves and lodges can be reached by vehicle. Best for: Birding. The Mindo cloud-forest route, on the north-western slope of the Andean foothills, and the Cosanga Circuit (north-east slope) have both held records for the number of bird species spotted during the annual Christmas bird counts – between 400 and 531 species in just one day!

The High Andes

Quito is surrounded by volcanic mountains covered in magnificent glaciers that deserve dedicated trips just to admire their flora and fauna. Cayambe Coca and Antisana national parks, in particular, are dominated by snowcapped volcanoes,Andean forest and páramo, providing opportunities to spy Andean condors, spectacled bears and carunculated caracara birds of prey. You’ll find access to trails, wildlife observatories and a lush forest interior remarkable for its sightings of tanagers, hummingbirds and toucans. Best for: Volcanoes. Because the Earth isn’t a perfect sphere (it bulges at the equator!), Chimborazo (6,263m) is the furthest point above the Earth’s centre – greater even than Everest. Further north, Cotopaxi (5,897m) is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, and its glacial lake fills with resident and migratory birds.

WHERE ELSE?

Machalilla National Park

As well as being home to fascinating pre-Columbian archaeological remains, this Pacific-adjacent park is visited by humpback whales between late June and October, who return to the coast to breed. Snorkelling and diving excursions also offer the rare chance to observe the largest colony of oceanic manta rays in the world.

Puyango Petrified Forest

The Puyango Petrified Forest is the site of not just one of the world’s largest collections of plant and marine animal fossils, but also an internationally important birding area. Look out, too, for the annual flowering of guayacán trees in the dry forests of the south-west.The first generous rains of mid-December or early January will trigger this annual bloom, producing bright-yellow flowers that extend to the horizon.

The Andean Chocó

The vast strip of tropical land that lies between the high Andes and the Pacific is home to many endemic bird species, from the toucan barbet to the Andean cock-of-the-rock. Up in the north-west, the Canandé Reserve features some of the last untouched sections of lowland tropical forest in the Chocó, protecting rare bird species such as the great green macaw.

Need to know

When to go

The weather is dictated by regional microclimates. The lowland rainforest is wet and hot (30ºC) throughout the year. The Andean highlands tend to be dry and sunny (20ºC) in summer (Jul–Sep) and rainy between February and April, with the latter coinciding with peak bird migration season in the cloud forests of Cosanga and Mindo. The Pacific coast sees migrating humpbacks travel up from Antarctica to breed between July and October.

Getting there & around

There are no direct flights to Ecuador from the UK. Connections from London to international airports in Quito and Guayaquil usually go via New York and Atlanta in the US, Madrid and Amsterdam in Europe, or Bogotá in Colombia. Airlines flying these routes include KLM (klm.co.uk), Avianca (avianca. com) and JetBlue (jetblue.com). Return flights cost around £714 and take from about 14 hours. Tour operators offering tailor-made trips to Ecuador include Metropolitan Touring (metropolitan-touring.com), Biotropica Expeditions (biotropica-expeditions.com) and Wildlife Worldwide (wildlifeworldwide.com).

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Quito via Madrid produces 1,057kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on finding one, visit wanderlust. co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Currency & visa

Currency: Ecuador has used the US dollar ($) since 2000. It is currently $1.27 to the UK£. Visa: UK nationals don’t require a visa for stays of up to 90 days.

Further information

Birds of Ecuador (Helm Field Guide, 2018) by Robin Restall and Juan Freile – A useful primer.

Alamy; Alberto Castillo; Norby Lopez; Santiago Salazar

El Salvador

The traditions of Indigenous Salvadorans persist today, even after the people themselves largely disappeared. Now the country wants to reclaim its heritage, writes Richard Arghiris

El Salvador’s rolling volcanic hills are peppered with ancient pyramids, ceremonial centres, Palaeolithic cave paintings and enigmatic statuary depicting the gods of rain, maize and fertility. But its present-day Indigenous Peoples are far more elusive.

The 2007 national census found that just 0.2% of the population – around 13,000 people – identify as Indigenous, suggesting a culture on the brink of extinction.That said, there are reasons to doubt that statistic, with the real number maybe 40 to 50 times higher. As the Salvadoran linguist Jorge Lemus once observed: it is a difficult task to define a people that ‘have been made invisible’.

Long before the arrival of Europeans in the 1500s, El Salvador was a thriving cultural crossroads met by soaring Mesoamerican civilisations to the west and formidable Isthmo-Colombian cultures to the east. At the Gruta del Espíritu Santo (Holy Spirit Grotto), hundreds of pictographs offer evidence of 10,000 years of human occupation.

Far from living in isolation, El Salvador’s peoples formed complex political ecologies that spanned vast distances. A visit to the Maya metropolis of Tazumal – founded in 200 BC and abandoned mysteriously 14 centuries later –reveals temples incorporating motifs from foreign cities as far flung asTeotihuacán in central Mexico, 1,600km away.

On the eve of Spanish conquest in the early 16th century, El Salvador was populated by two main ethnic groups: the

nation of Cuzcatlán, homeland of the Nahuat-speaking Pipil, and the matriarchal Lenca kingdom. Both resisted Spanish domination but eventually succumbed to European weapons and waves of ‘OldWorld’ diseases.

Nonetheless, their cultures survived this conquest and remained visible in El Salvador until 1932, when they were first driven underground by La Matanza (‘The Massacre’) – a military crackdown on a Communist uprising that led to the ethnocide of the Pipil –and then by the CivilWar (1979–1992). Generations were forced to abandon their Indigenous heritage.

Today, more than 30 years after the Peace Accords, these cultures are enjoying a revival. Dozens of grassroots organisations have sprung to life to revitalise ancestral traditions. Innovative language programmes are rescuing the NahuatPipil tongue. And in 2014, El Salvador’s constitution was amended to officially recognise the nation’s Indigenous Peoples – a first step in an overdue reconciliation.

One could even argue that Indigenous cultures have always been at the heart of El Salvador.They can be seen by visitors in the crafts that sustain entire villages, felt in the religious festivals that permeate rural life and tasted in the tortillas cooked up in kitchens since the time of the Maya.

Lasting traditions (this page; top–bottom) The low-temperaturefired pottery of Guatajiagua gets its dark look from a black dye made by crushing the seeds of the nacascol tree; the Flower and Palm Festival of Panchimalco sees the town’s panchas don their colourful headscarves

Alamy

Six places to experience Indigenous El Salvador

1

Panchimalco

The cobblestone lanes of Panchimalco are a world away from the smoke and bustle of San Salvador, just 15km to the north.The town traces its heritage to Pipil refugees who fled the Spanish invasion in the 16th century, and many of its women (known as panchas) continue to wear vivid traditional headscarves. Several local initiatives are currently stimulating Pipil artistic output, including the CasaTaller Encuentros art workshop, the ACOPANCHI weavers’ cooperative and the Kaltunal art gallery. Incurably soporific for most of the year, Panchimalco comes alive with folkloric dancing during the Feria de las Flores y Palmas (Flower and Palm Festival) on the first Sunday of May.

2 Cacaopera

The Cacaopera people (also known as the Kakawira) occupy an isolated eponymous enclave in the misty mountains of Morazán department.Their original language is now extinct, but many other facets of their culture have survived, including traditional dress and religious rites, earning their community a place on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list. In honour of the goddess Xochiquetzal, the Dance of the Emplumados (Feathered Ones) is performed to lilting violins and guitars in January

(15–17).The Winakirika Museum, founded by community leader Miguel Angel Amaya, can organise trips to cave paintings and archaeological sites on theTorola River.

3 Guatajiagua

The town of Guatajiagua is home to Mario Salvador Hernández, the last known speaker of Lenca Potón. Hernández is actively revitalising Lenca culture and restoring its spiritual connection to the pre-Columbian site of Quelepa, which has become a place of Lenca pilgrimage. Guatajiagua is famous for its black pottery, and there are busy workshops all over town. Traditionally, Lenca women work the clay while men maintain the kiln fires with wood.The dye for the distinctive pottery comes from the seeds of the nacascol tree.

4 Santo Domingo de Guzmán (Witzapan)

The quiet Pipil community of Santo Domingo de Guzmán is working to regenerate its ancestral Nahuat language, which is closely related to Aztec Nahuatl, the pre-Columbian ‘lingua franca’ of central Mexico. Run by Pipil ElderWomen, the town’s Cuna Nahuat (Nahuat Cradle) school provides free language classes to infants. Santo Domingo de Guzmán is home to artisan families who

work with red clay.The thunderous, 80m-high El Escuco waterfall is also within easy striking distance.

5Nahuizalco

The Pipil town of Nahuizalco is the southern gateway to the fabled Ruta de las Flores – a bucolic highland highway that takes in flowering villages and aromatic coffee fincas. The town is popular with weekenders from San Salvador, who come to experience its candlelit night market and flavourful gastronomic fair. In 2011, the Council of Indigenous Communities of Nahuizalco made history by publishing the nation’s first ordinance of Indigenous rights. Like Santo Domingo de Guzmán, the town is striving to revitalise the Nahuat language – visit the Nahuat-Pipil community museum to learn more.

6 Joya de Cerén

Local colour (this page; top–bottom) Carpets of dyed sawdust and flowers mark Holy Week celebrations – one of many traditions brought here by the Spanish – in the Pipil town of Nahuizalco; the ruins of Joya de Cerén offer a glimpse of a real Maya village

Described by UNESCO as a ‘time capsule of unprecedented scientific value’, Joya de Cerén is El Salvador’s only World Heritage site. Unique among Mesoamerican archaeological attractions, it contains an immaculately preserved Maya village that was frozen in time after a nearby volcanic eruption covered it with layers of ash around 650 AD. Joya de Cerén contains built structures and artefacts that offer not only an intimate glimpse of lifestyles at the time, but a historical reference point for contemporary rural culture.

Kathmandu

Valley, Nepal

Over the centuries, successive earthquakes have battered Nepal’s UNESCO-listed medieval heart – but the capital always finds a way to rebound, writes Paul Bloomfield

Legend has it that the bowl-shaped Kathmandu Valley once cradled a lake festooned with lotus flowers.

Then bodhisattva (Buddhist saint) Manjushri cleaved the rock walls with his flaming sword to drain the waters – or perhaps it was Lord Krishna who threw the fateful thunderbolt.What’s true is that the valley once lay underwater, and that it has been shaken many times by violent convulsions; some have been natural, others political, cultural and social.

Throughout Nepal’s history, the geological forces that forged 8,000mplus Himalayan peaks have sparked frequent earthquakes. Devastating tremors ravaged the region during the Middle Ages and beyond, including a major incident in 1934. And in April 2015, a 7.8-magnitude quake and aftershocks killed around 9,000

people and damaged more than 600,000 structures across the region.

In human terms, too, the valley has been rocked by periodic upheavals. This was the crucible in which, starting over 2,000 years ago, Kirati, Licchavi and Newari peoples arrived, mingled and melded, followed by further waves of settlers and invaders. It’s where successive Malla kings vied for prestige from the 13th century on, bestowing palaces, Hindu and Buddhist temples, monasteries and stupas on the rival cities of Bhaktapur, Patan and Kathmandu, contin-

“The 2015 quake damaged more than 440 monuments in the Kathmandu Valley, levelling 83”

uing after unification in the 14th century and when the kingdom splintered again 100 years later. Indeed, William Kirkpatrick – among the first Englishmen to reach the valley in 1793 as part of a diplomatic mission – claimed that “there are nearly as many temples as houses and as many idols as inhabitants”.

UNESCO attributed Kathmandu Valley’s astonishing medieval monumentsWorld Heritage status in 1979. As well as the three royal cities, the inscription recognises the hilltop Buddhist ‘monkey temple’ complex at Swayambhunath, famed for its cheeky rhesus macaques; Pashupatinath, Nepal’s most important Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva and noted for its cremation ghats on the Bagmati River; the Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath, one of the world’s largest, possibly dating from the 7th

Standing strong (above) The 30m-high Nyatapola Temple on Taumadhi Tole is one of the tallest buildings in the Kathmandu Valley – and it was hit hard by the 2015 earthquake. To restore it, builders used traditional methods, which meant sourcing the same type of mud that was used to cement the original bricks together

Paul Bloomfield

century; and the ornately carved Hindu temple at Changu Narayan.

The 2015 quake damaged more than 440 monuments here, levelling 83. The degree to which the UNESCO sites suffered varied, depending on construction types and the ground on which they were built, but the good news is that all have reopened to visitors. Boudhanath was rapidly repaired, as was Pashupatinath, which was relatively little damaged. Swayambhunath, too, has been largely restored, and welcomes visitors to climb the steps to its huge domed stupa topped with gilded cap and all-seeing Buddha eyes. At Changu Narayan, where a shrine has stood since probably the 4th century, repairs to the current temple (built in the early 18th century) are ongoing, though travellers can again admire its intricately carved roof struts and ancient sculptures of Garuda and various incarnations of Vishnu.

Other parts of Kathmandu, however, were hit considerably harder. Perhaps the most treasured architectural victim was the Kasthamandap, a three-storey wooden temple after which the city itself was named, said to have been built from a single sal tree in the 12th century. It was flattened by the shocks, and lengthy reconstruction work included archaeological research that suggested its foundations dated from as early as the 7th century.Today,

once again, it stands as a fulcrum of Kathmandu’s Durbar (Palace) Square, where dozens of temples and shrines cluster around the Hanuman Dhoka, or Old Royal Palace, itself still undergoing restoration.

Walking distance to the south stands Patan’s Durbar Square, boasting a dense and beautiful array of Newari architecture.The 16th-century Char Narayan temple is reputedly the square’s oldest, its wooden roof struts intricately carved with erotic figures. It collapsed entirely in the quake, but should be completely restored by the time you read this.

Also ravaged by the tremors of 1934 and 2015 was Bhaktapur, the third medieval royal city. Largely renovated during a 1970s German project, and with work on the Royal Palace ongoing, it’s now mostly traffic-free – and more magical for it.

Yet while Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square and nearby Taumadhi Tole andTachupalTole retain magnificent monuments – including the Vatsala Durga temple, restored after the 2015 shocks – history lives not only in its ancient temples. Just a few paces from the bustle you’ll stumble upon tucked-away gems: the exquisitely carved wooden Peacock Window, or a Hindu devotee venerating a vermilion-daubed, marigold-petal-adorned statue. Such timeless scenes defy earthquakes and encroaching modernity to endure throughout the ages.

Ancient glories (this page; clockwise from bottom right) Dattatreya, one of the oldest temples in Bhaktapur, sits at the east end of Tachupal Tole; wandering the back streets of Bhaktapur reveals historical shrines that remind you why this valley is listed by UNESCO; a stone statue of Narasimha, the lion-headed god

Need to know

Getting there & around

There are no direct flights to Kathmandu from the UK. Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) flies from London Heathrow, Manchester and Edinburgh via Doha, costing from £917 return and taking 13 hours. Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport lies 5km east of the city centre; taxis cost from around £6.

Walking is the best way to explore central Kathmandu Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath and Patan’s Durbar Square are about 20 minutes from Thamel on foot. Further-flung sites such as Boudhanath, Changu Narayan and Bhaktapur are 30 minutes by taxi, haggleable to £12 each way.

Carbon offset

A return flight from London to Kathmandu via Doha produces 1,049kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust. co.uk/sustainable-travel.

Where to stay

Kathmandu Guest House (ktmgh.com) first opened in 1968, offering rooms for 1 rupee – in fact, it basically created Thamel, the now-bustling traveller district. Damaged by the 2015 earthquake, the reinvented hotel houses the Museum of Nepali Art (£6 for non-Nepalese; mona.com.np) and Art House, providing studios to locals. B&B doubles from £47.

Further information

Lonely Planet and Rough Guides both publish excellent Nepal travel guides.

Shopping for Buddhas (Travelers’ Tales, 2014) by Jeff Greenwald –This reprint of the 1990 classic offers a wry look at Kathmandu.

The trip

The author was a guest of Mountain Kingdoms (mountainkingdoms.com), whose Kathmandu Valley Explorer trip visits all these sites and costs from £1,495, excluding flights.

Berwick-upon-Tweed

England’s most northerly town has a history to match the drama of the Northumberland coast. Suzy Pope explores a seaside haunt of border feuds and windswept shores

Growing up outside Berwick-upon-Tweed, I never appreciated its unique position in British history, or its shambling beauty.

Anyone who has been on an East Coast Main Line train as it crosses the Victorian viaduct over the Tweed will have heard the intake of breath as passengers crane their necks for views over the red rooftops that tumble alongside the river to the sea.That was the moment I realised Berwick was special.

As a child, it never occurred to me that the remains of a medieval stronghold would be out of place in a Somerfield car park, or that theTown Hall steps where I munched sausage rolls were the same ones that inspired one of LS Lowry’s most famous paintings. Returning as an adult, I now appreciate not just the quiet awe I see in the day trippers, but the history all around me.

In 1603, Scottish king James VI crossed the border at Berwick on his way to being crowned James I of England and Ireland.This Union of the Crowns finally smoothed relations between Scotland and its neighbour – a period during which Berwick was very much in the firing line.

As England’s most northerly town, it changed hands between the Scots and the English 13

times from the 12th century until surrendering to English rule in 1482. Back then it was a fortress town, and you can still see the remains of Berwick Castle, wander the walls of the old town and walk through the gates where the night porters once forbade anyone from entering after curfew.

The town’s heart is the River Tweed, which cuts through its centre and ferries one of the UK’s largest colonies of mute swans between the three striking bridges that connect Tweedbank with old Berwick. This year marks four centuries since the completion of the iconic stone bridge – commissioned by James I – that still links the two banks of the town.

Most visitors use Berwick as a base to explore the Northumberland coast, where border skirmishes and the threat of Norse invaders left a litany of seaside castles in their wake. Explore sprawling sands and medieval wonders at Bamburgh, join puffin cruises in Seahouses and Amble, and dine on kippers in quiet Craster.

There’s plenty to keep you busy in and around Berwick too, from hiking the newly crowned King Charles III Coastal Path to visiting the tidal island of Lindisfarne.Though few would begrudge you just quietly soaking up the history of a border town with a tale or two to tell.

W55.7702° N, 2.0054°

Ask a local

“Berwick is a town of borders – and I don’t just mean the historic boundary between Scotland and England, but the border between the sea and the river. I cross the bridge into work every morning and it still takes my breath away. Walking the old walls is the best way to get a feel for the town’s geography and history. In an hour you can see the Barracks, the bridges and the beach.”

Ruby Rosamund, The Green Shop, Berwick-upon-Tweed

Alamy; Dreamstime; Shutterstock

Bridging the past (left page) Berwick’s Grade I-listed Victorian viaduct was designed by Robert Stephenson, son of the Northumberland-born ‘Father of the Railways’ George Stephenson; (this page; clockwise from top left) the ruins of Berwick’s once-mighty fortifications; mute swans drift effortlessly along the River Tweed; the town’s 355m-long Old Bridge became the longest in Britain when it was completed in 1624, and was the first fully stone bridge to carry the Great North Road between London and Edinburgh; Berwick is well placed for day trips along the Northumberland coast; the stark beauty of Cocklawburn Beach

DAY 1

Start the day in Berwick’s historic centre. The Castle Gate Bridge above the Marygate affords a view of the Town Hall that inspired one of LS Lowry’s most famous paintings. From here you can follow the Lowry Trail (berwickpreservationtrust.co.uk), taking in the Elizabethan walls, the old stone bridge and nature trail to Spittal Beach (pictured above). Looping back into the heart of Berwick, peruse the shops on Bridge Street and stop in Northern Soul Kitchen (19 West Street) for a zero-waste lunch. Check out what’s on at the Malting’s Theatre before exploring the collections in the Berwick Barracks, home of the Berwick Museum and King’s Own Scottish Borderers Museum. From the quayside, follow the Berwick Estuary Walk to admire the iconic viaduct – of vintage-railway-poster fame –and watch the swans glide by. On the edge of town you’ll find the ruins of Berwick Castle, then make your way back into the centre as the sun sets, casting the viaduct in a golden light. Back on Bridge Street, fine dining awaits at Audela (audela.co.uk), while The Barrels opposite is a cosy pub for a nightcap.

DAY 2

Your second day begins on the quayside and The Lookout coffee house, which is hidden in the arches of the old bridge. From here you can hike or bike along the coast, following the Northumberland Coast Path beyond Spittal and out into the countryside. You’ll soon reach Cocklawburn Beach, a vast, near-empty shore where a solitary ice cream van sits on the clifftop no matter the weather. After you’ve passed the old lime pits and stretches of golden sand, the tidal causeway to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne comes into view, 19km from Berwick. If you time it right with the tides, you can be on the island for a couple of hours to stop for fresh crab sandwiches at The Island Shack, explore the gardens and history of Lindisfarne Castle (pictured above) and spend time in the haunting, skeletal ruins of Lindisfarne Priory, which was sacked by Norse pillagers in 793 AD, signalling the start of the Viking Age across Europe. Cycle or get the bus back to Berwick, which leaves in time with the tidal crossing and brings you back for locally cured charcuterie and wine at Atelier (atelier.cafe) on Bridge Street.

Gettingthere: Berwick is on the East Coast Main Line, ideal for arrival by train. Most LNER and Lumo trains from London to Edinburgh stop at Berwick (LNER tickets from London Kings Cross cost from £41.90 one way). It’s a ten-minute stroll into town from the station. If you’re arriving by car, Berwick sits just off the A1. Stay at: Set within the Elizabethan walls of Berwick and overlooking the River Tweed, the aptly named The Walls B&B (thewallsberwick.com) offers antique-furniture-filled rooms and a hearty, home-cooked breakfast every morning. You can watch the swans drift by from each river-view room and feel the history emanating from foundations dating back to 1750, especially in the main lounge where the comforting tick of the grandfather clock sounds. Doubles from £105pn (breakfast included).

4 TOP THINGS TO DO

SHOP in the independent stores along Bridge Street. The Green Shop (at No 30) has a range of organic local food supplies and homemade handicrafts, while Slightly Foxed Books (foxedquarterly.com) is the bookshop of your wildest dreams, with pile upon pile of second-hand paperbacks towering to the ceiling and sofas inviting you to try before you buy.

SAIL OUT into the North Sea or upriver along the Tweed from the quayside. In summer, the Border Belle (berwickboattrips.co.uk; from £15pp) runs greatvalue boat trips to spot seabirds and dolphins in the waters off the coast. It also offers leisure cruises up the Tweed and along to the Old Chain Bridge at the Scottish Border.

WANDER the Elizabethan walls that encase the old town of Berwick. The entire route takes around an hour, passing the town beach, sea links golf course and some of the regal-looking Edwardian houses that gaze out to the sea.

CROSS the England-Scotland border on foot. The Berwickshire Coastal Path stretches for 45km north of Berwick, winding up into Scotland, via Eyemouth, and finishing at Cocksburnpath. Along the way it dips into tiny fishing villages and rounds the National Nature Reserve at St Abbs, known for its rowdy nesting seabird colonies (May–July).

Alamy; The Walls B&B

Springtime festivals quiz

Spring sees the return of some of the year’s most incredible festivals and traditions. Can you banish the Böögg by completing our quiz?

1In Thailand, the water-soaked festival of Songkran is held across which national holiday in April?

a. The Buddha’s birth

b. Mother’s Day

c. Spring Equinox

d. New Year

2 Held in the town of Zenica in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Čimburijada festival includes a communal meal of which food?

a. Fish

b. Pilaf rice

c. Scrambled egg

d. Stuffed grape leaves

3 On 12 May 2024, the Belgian city of Ypres hosts a triennial festival honouring what animal?

a. Cat

b. Dragon

c. Guinea pig

d. Wolf

4 Around 6 million tulips bloom in the run-up to May’s Tulip Time Festival in the city of Holland. In which US state can you find it?

a. California

b. Maryland

c. Michigan

d. Ohio

5 April’s Kanamara Matsuri (or Festival of the Steel Phallus) takes place at a shrine in which Japanese city?

a. Kawasaki

b. Kyoto

c. Nagoya d. Hakodate

6 Which Swiss city hosts the burning of the Böögg – a straw effigy of a snowman-like creature that is packed with dynamite – in April?

a. Basel

b. Bern

c. Geneva

d. Zürich

7 The Da Jiu festival on the Hong Kong island of Cheung Chau includes a competition where entrants climb a metal tower covered in which food item?

a. Buns

b. Cabbages

c. Doughnuts

d. Eggs

8 The citizens of the Guatemalan city

Antigua honour Semana Santa by crafting carpets mostly made from flowers, fruit and what other material?

a. Beads

b. Sawdust

c. Shells

d. Wood

9 Cinco de Mayo (5 May) celebrates the 1862 victory by Mexico over France in a battle that took place in which Mexican city?

a. Guadalajara

b. Mexico City

c. Oaxaca

d. Puebla

10 Walpurgis Night (30 April) was said to be when witches gathered atop Brocken

– the highest peak in which German range?

a. Swabian Alps

b. Eifel

c. Harz

d. Allgäu Alps

11 Which traditional Scottish festival features a bonfire on Edinburgh’s Calton Hill on the night of 30 April?

a. Beltane

b. Burns Night

c. Samhain

d. Up Helly Aa

12 What fills the air above AlUla, Saudi Arabia, during April’s Skies Festival?

a. Hot air balloons

b. Kites

c. Lanterns

d. Paper planes

Words: Gareth Clark; images: Alamy; Shutterstock

Ali Al Aligi

Joint winner of the ‘Tour Leader’ category at

Wanderlust’s 2023 World Guide

Awards, Saudi local Ali talks about what it’s like to guide in a country opening up to visitors

Saudionlyopenedtonon-Muslim travellersfiveyearsago.Howdid you start working as a guide?

My country is over three times the size of France. As a traveller I spent years just exploring it on my own terms. Back in 2001, I also had a number of international colleagues who wanted to do the same but didn’t know how. Even then,there were 9 million expats living in Saudi.That’s when I found my niche:taking people into the desert and showing them the places I knew.

Howdidthingschangein2019?

As Saudi opened up,there was greater demand. But because so few visitors knew anything about it, I found

myself becoming an interpreter for my people.They had so many questions: why is alcohol prohibited? How many camels do I have? It might sound silly but this is my material.And when you combine places with cultural context, you are able to give more of an understanding of the culture around you.

Inthoseearlydays,whatblew themindsofvisitorsthemost?

Many people think of Saudi as just desert and oil.They don’t realise that it has untouched beaches, history, rock art, even the world’s largest camel market. But the place that drops most jaws is AlUla. Somewhere between its mud-walled old town, the Hijaz mountains and the ruins of Hegra and the Dadanite Kingdom, you can see people realise the potential here.

Haveyouseenmanychanges since2019?

Yes. Especially since the government started putting up strict regulations to maintain the desert, which has been abused by people, the animals, everything. About 30% of the Kingdom has been converted into national reservations where wild Arabian oryx, ibex and deer have been reintroduced. These royal reserves are scattered in every corner, and it’s at least a day’s travel to glimpse them.But it’s worth it.

Manyareasareopeningup,but whatdoyouthinkwillbethenext regiontocatchourattention?

Make yourself at home!

(top) Ali was quick to adapt to his role as a cultural guide and is delighted to answer any queries about his faith or culture:

“When you come here,” he says, “don’t be afraid to ask any question!”;

(bottom) he began guiding by exploring the desert on his own, then started to show others what he had found

The south! I’m talking about the provinces of Al Bahah, Najran, Asir and Jazan.These are mountainous areas that have wild scenery, small communities and traditional cultures. They aren’t yet ready for major tourism, but if you’re travelling by yourself, don’t skip them – especially in summer.While it can top 45ºC in Riyadh, at the same time it can be as low as 18ºC up in the mountains.

Whatisthefunniestquestion thatyou’vebeenasked?

I try to explain to people our culture in relation to my outfit. In response, I’ve often had them point to my thobe (national dress) and ask: “Do you wear anything underneath that?”

Ali Al Aligi is a freelance guide in Saudi Arabia. Contact him at igilaa1392@gmail.com or on +966 55 525 8600