Short break
SOFIA BULGARIA Sofia, so good The National Assembly (front) and the domed Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (behind) overlook Narodno Sabranie Square
Where? Western Bulgaria Why? For an offbeat, chaotic melting pot of Euro, Russo and Ottoman culture When? Spring/early summer for café culture and birdwatching
ofia’s history is as long and colourful as you’d expect from a capital on the frontier between Europe and Asia. The city has spent most of the past 2,000 years under occupation by various empires: first settled by Thracians in the eighth century BC, the area has since seen Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and Communists all leave their marks. In 2007 Bulgaria joined the EU and Sofia got a bit of a facelift. Not that this is immediately obvious. Like many former Soviet cities, Sofia is a touch unprepossessing when you first arrive, its compact heart encircled by a busy ring road. However, within that, there is a silver lining. The first indications that there’s more to Sofia than concrete housing blocks are the glinting golden domes
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4Corners Images; Clare Wilson
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Bulgaria’s quirky capital combines Ottoman heritage with European influences. Clare Wilson explores the city and its surrounds to help you get the best out of this corner of the Balkans
of the Russian Orthodox church. This ages, and were an integral part of the isn’t the most impressive monument in community until around 90% decided the city, though – that honour goes to to emigrate when Israel was formed. the Memorial Church of Alexander During the war, unlike most Nazi Allies Nevsky, Bulgaria’s largest cathedral. On of German-occupied countries, its outside, neo-Byzantine gilt-andBulgaria saved most of its Jewish green domes pile towards the population from being deported heavens; inside its to the concentration cavernous core, frescoes camps. The synagogue glare down from the and the Banya Bashi Traditionally, walls. Christianity may Mosque remain two of shaking your head have left the most a clutch of impressive means yes (da) and a nod means no (ne). outwardly glitzy buildings downtown, Learn the words to architectural legacy on along with the Mineral avoid confusion! Sofia, but the city’s Baths and the Sveta history as a melting pot of Nedelya church. cultures and faiths has also All Sofia’s main sights are left fascinating traces. located inside the ring road, Nowadays Sofia’s Muslim and Jewish within easy walking distance – while communities are comparatively small. public transport is readily available, the This hasn’t always been the case best way to discover the city’s though. Europe’s Sephardic Jewish charming nooks is on foot. Explore the community were welcomed by the twisty, part-cobbled streets to find Islamic Ottoman empire in the middle markets and squares that give way to
Dome comforts The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
TOP TIP
parks and wide boulevards. And this is when you’ll discover the second indication that Sofia isn’t just Soviet-drab. Stroll down Bulevard Vitosha, pause at one of the many cafés – and then look up. Above the tram-wires and slightly shabby buildings, Mount Vitosha towers over the skyline, promising fresh air and greenery once you’ve finished exploring within the city limits. >
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