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features Luxury, Meet Power
Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car. 52
Ready for Everything Let TRC fill all your sartorial needs. (We have these looks in stock!) 56
The Romance of Rio With beauty, beaches and the bossa nova, this South American metropolis stirs the passions. 66
Some Like It Hot
Once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “Texas Red.” 86
On the cover: From left, Brunello Cucinelli charcoal cotton top with sheer silk sleeves, Brunello Cucinelli tan suede skirt, Aireheart by Sydney pyrite necklace with pearl teardrop; Luigi Bianchi Mantova charcoal grey windowpane suit, Ermenegildo Zegna spread collar dress shirt with lapis stripes, Nicky woven silk tie in navy with sky blue dots and Taylor Richards & Conger printed wool pocket square.
Rich, textured hues make these fashions the season’s must-have pieces.
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This four-wheel, off-road rascal gobbles tough terrain for the sheer kick of it. 84
departments Invitation to Style
“Chocolate is the first luxury.” 10
The TRC Guide
Count on Eleventy…100 years of fashion…the Cividini woman…a new way with whiskey…boho chic…Ask Mr. Etiquette…and more! 15
However you get your music, here are four artists you mustn’t miss. 20
Essentials for Men
Must-have pieces from our fall collections. 22
Man of Style
CEO Bill Berry says TRC’s art of personal service keeps him coming back. 28 ICON
For the Picasso of jazz, nothing was merely incidental, in music or in attire. 30
Eton shirts were founded in Sweden— but they are born in the U.S.A. 34
The Argentinian varietal Malbec has regained its reputation for subtlety and balance. 89
Essentials for Women
Fall style selections: your checklist for the very best. 38
Woman of Style
This former Marine and mother of two loves shopping at TRC W. 44
Look Good, Keep Well
The charming young Brit is unafraid to make bold choices on stage, on screen— and in fashion. 46
Ways to optimize your health and your appearance—starting with a smile on your face. 96
A Beauty on the Beach
Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc on the Caribbean isle of St. Barts. 92
Service Directory Your guide to the TRC Experience. 94
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Nature does nothing in vain — ARISTOTLE —
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invitation to style
6907 phillips place court charlotte, north carolina 28210 7 0 4 . 3 6 6 . 9 0 9 2 ( TRC w: 7 0 4 . 3 6 6 . 2 9 0 5 ) w w w. t r c s t y l e . c o m
Store Hours M o n day t o f r i day: 1 0 a . m . t o 7 p . m . s a t u r d ay: 1 0 a . m . t o 6 p . m .
(L to R) Front row, seated: Kristin Dodrill, Lyn Conger, Madison Haslam. Standing: Glen Taylor, Mary Helen Tomlinson, Doug Gravely, Paul Kenna, Scott Morgan, Chris Estridge, Richard Pattison. Not pictured: Watt Long.
Editorial Directors Glen Taylor, richard Pattison, lyn conger Editor Mark Dowden
chocolate is the first luxury
wo words...soft and luxurious...may be all that are needed to describe this season’s clothing collections. Continued innovations in the world of fabric production have yielded cottons and woolens so incredibly soft they’re sometimes confused with super cashmeres. That’s where the luxury comes in. Achieving the hand of cashmere with ‘lesser yarns’ has been the Holy Grail of the fabric industry for centuries. This innovation has pushed cashmere producers to improve their game, and may well have been the impetus for ‘techno-cashmeres,’ treated cashmere cloth that repels stains and weather while still providing warmth and a luxurious hand. Of course, knowing how to style these new and improved fabrics requires a high degree of craftsmanship, the common thread between the many collections found in our shops. You’ll find evidence of that craftsmanship displayed prominently in this issue’s seasonal spreads. On page 72 you’ll find “Neutral Territory,” a comprehensive exhibit of the women’s clothing we have in store for you at TRC W. “Ready for Everything,” our menswear presentation, spotlights the looks we consider representative of this season’s best, from activewear to dress suitings, and all from within our shop. For you island lovers with a penchant for a warm climate we offer a short feature
on St.-Barth’s Cheval Blanc, a newly renovated boutique hotel that’s a real treasure and sure to please. Woman of Style Deb Roney’s perky personality is hard to disguise under her preferred wardrobe of neutral tones and textures. And as a busy account executive with GenMark Diagnostics and mother of two, she probably had more time to relax in her former life...as a Marine! You can see her entire story on page 44. President, CEO and Fall 2015 Man of Style Bill Berry heads up American Tire Distributors, a job that doesn’t require suits. But as the leader of one of the nation’s largest independent suppliers of tires to the replacement tire market, he feels his clothing must make a statement. And so it does! His profile is found on page 28. The term craftsmanship is defined as “skill in a particular craft,” a word that readily describes this issue’s People of Style. It also describes our staff, a group of highly trained professionals who truly know their craft. We invite you to experience their expertise and all that we have to offer at Taylor Richards & Conger and TRC W, from a warm greeting and friendly smile to, quite arguably, the world’s finest clothing. Richard Pattison, TRC founding partner
Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Managing Editor Carol Bialkowski Senior Editor Timothy Kelley Editorial Assistant Jacklyn Kouefati Contributing Editors Michael Hiller, maria lissandrello, Francesca Moisin, everett potter, Josh Sens, Mimi Smith, Luca Sumberac Contributing Photographers Thien La, David Ramsey Publishing staff
Publisher Shae Marcus National Brand Manager monica delli santi Senior Account Executive Carol XanTHOS Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim Production/Art Assistant Alanna Giannantonio Accounting amanda albano, agnes alves, Megan Frank Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents shae marcus, Carl Olsen Vice Presidents Rita Guarna, christine hamel
tay l o r r i c h a r d s & c o n g e r Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Trc. Copyright © 2015 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. E d i to r i a l C o n t r i b u ti o n s : Write to Editor, Trc, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email firstname.lastname@example.org. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. S u b s c r i pti o n S e r vi c e s : To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Trc, Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email email@example.com. A dve r ti s i n g I n q u i r i e s : Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or firstname.lastname@example.org.
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fall 2015 Made with pride in Canada. Coppley.com
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TRC guide The look of Milan
You can’t count to Eleventy, but it’s a brand you can count on. Born in the fashion and design epicenter, Milan, Italy, in 2006 as a small line of polo shirts, it has expanded and gained international prominence with collections of meticulously crafted, easy-to-wear apparel. Eleventy has been likened to Brunello Cucinelli—but with prices that will leave you extra cash to gas up your Italian sports car. So the next time you’re out shopping on Milan’s Via della Spiga—or at TRC and TRC W—give Eleventy a whirl. We’re the only shops in Charlotte that offer the brand!
Boho chic The unique jewelry brand Perle by Lola was born when Lola and her mother, Dominique, began designing pieces for themselves using freshwater pearls and leather. “Our inspiration is simple—being able to have wearable, fun, everyday yet chic jewelry pieces that can go from day to night,” Lola has said. “Granted, we’re usually found in summer vacation spots, so our line is tied closely to beachy, bohemian, hippie-like styles.” We like to call it “boho-meets-luxe”—a carefree collection of chokers, lariats and bracelets combining freshwater and Tahitian pearls, Swarovski crystals and semi-precious stones with premium leather cord. Stop by the store and let one of our sales associates show you our extensive selection of Perle by Lola creations.
years of fashion Whether you’re a hard-core fashionista or simply an admirer of beauty, you’ll enjoy Nathalie Herschdorfer’s Coming Into Fashion: A Century of Photography at Condé Nast (Prestel, $65). This celebration of fashion photography, drawn from a museum exhibition, brings together some of the finest work from that publishing house’s legendary archives and the best of New York, Paris and Milan. Via the volume’s 208 images you’ll look through the lenses of renowned photographers and witness how the art of fashion photography has evolved—and how it has reflected change in society. (Among chapter titles are “The Golden Age” and “The New Wave.”) Early Vogue and Vanity Fair covers recall styles of a bygone era that feels very remote—yet also evokes a timeless elegance that speaks eloquently to us today. fall / winter 2015
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TRC guide The Cividini woman Sweater weather is officially here—and just in time, women’s wear brand Cividini paid homage to super-soft, super-chic knitwear in its fall/winter collection. Run by Piero and Miriam Cividini, partners in business and in life, they say, the brand’s silhouettes are classic—a midi-length skirt, for instance, topped with a sharp jacket or a simple mini cocktail dress— and the colors are muted: grey, black and camel, with hints of red and light pink. But what shines through that simplicity is the exquisite fabric. The finest imported raw wools are delicately hand-woven or crocheted into each dress, skirt, blouse and cardigan—all available at TRC W.
A new way with whiskey If you’re still drinking your whiskey “straight,” it’s time to mix it up. Literally. The world’s most masculine beverage has made its way onto mixed-drinks menus across the country. “Whiskey’s pleasures are diverse and delicious,” notes Warren Bobrow, author of Whiskey Cocktails. “And much to the surprise of traditionalists, it’s a versatile spirit that’s extremely adaptable when it comes to mixology.” Here, we present Bobrow’s Robert Burns Cocktail, a tipple that honors Scotland’s most famous poet. Every sip is pure elegance, whether it’s served straight up or in a martini glass with a flamed orange zest twist. That said, if you’re a “wee tim’rous beastie,” as Burns himself wrote, steer clear: This cocktail is not for the faint of heart. If you can handle it, though, it’s a truly luxurious way to start an autumn evening. The Robert Burns Cocktail n 2 oz. Scotch whisky n ¾ oz. Italian vermouth, such as Carpano Antica n Dash of orange bitters n Dash of absinthe n Orange zest twist (optional) Fill a cocktail shaker three-quarters with ice. Pour all the liquid ingredients over the ice. Stir gently to combine. Strain this into a martini glass. Singe the orange zest by holding it firmly behind a lit match and pinching it to release its natural citrus oils. (Be careful to spritz the citrus oils into the glass.)
The perfect tee
Majestic Filatures’ founders Roland Chelly and Franck Ellia have created an entire brand around the goal of giving this wardrobe staple a certain je ne sais quoi. All prototypes that make up the line are handcrafted in a Paris atelier, and the collection is fashioned from an exclusive knit blend that combines silk, cashmere, cotton, linen and other deluxe natural fibers. Lucky for you, this very European brand is available in only a select few U.S. stores, including only one in North Carolina—TRC W. Come in and feel the difference for yourself—we guarantee you’ll never go back to 100 percent cotton again.
No junk in these trunks
In the old days of fashion retailing, manufacturers’ reps would visit stores with trunks filled with their latest offerings, and store owners would select what they thought their customers would go for. Today we do most of our shopping at designers’ showrooms, but the trunk show lives on (even though it no longer involves an actual trunk). During these special events you’ll have an opportunity to peruse a designer’s entire line and purchase your favorite items. Here’s what we have in store for fall. SEPTEMBER 25–26 LUCIANO BARBERA, MASSIMO PALOMBA, PERLE BY LOLA OCTOBER 2–3 CANTARELLI, BALDASSARI, INIS MEAIN, SEALUP 7–10 COPPLEY APPAREL, HOLLAND & SHERRY 8–9 FABIANA FILIPPI 13–14 PESERICO, W. KLEINBERG, JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN 16–17 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA 20–21 OXXFORD CLOTHES, NETTLETON SHOES 27–28 KITON 29–30 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI NOVEMBER 5–6 ELEVENTY, STEWART LEATHERS
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Get a winter glow
How to put your best face forward this winter? You can pick up all the essentials for a stunning seasonal wardrobe at TRC and TRC W, but equally important to what you put on your body is how well you take care of the skin you’re in. We spoke to Elizabeth Rostan, M.D., of Charlotte Skin & Laser about how to pamper and protect your skin during the harsh winter months. “The lack of humidity can leave skin chapped, peeling, dull and red,” she says. “And dry skin is not only an aesthetic problem. It can lead to itching and predispose you to a rash or eczema.” Dry skin also can make the wools and other knits that are popular this season uncomfortable to wear because the tiny fibers further irritate the cracked skin. But, worry not. These four steps will help ensure your skin is silky smooth year round: Moisturize: It’s best to complete this step when the skin is wet, Dr. Rostan explains, because the product will seal in the moisture that’s already on the skin. She recommends spraying your face with Avène, a spring water that comes from a mountain spring in France, and then applying a restorative body moisturizer, such as one by EltaMD. Heal: If your skin is already dry and peeling, Dr. Rostan recommends a product containing ceramide, such as CeraVe or Cetaphil RestoraDerm. This lipid can help rebuild the outer layer of skin, which serves as a shell, shielding the body from environmental pollutants and dryness. Protect: Before going outside for activities like running, biking or skiing, apply a thick moisturizer like Vaseline or Aquaphor to your exposed skin (especially areas vulnerable to wind, like your cheeks). Prevent: To avoid dry skin, use only cleansing bars or liquid soaps in the shower. Also, Dr. Rostan advises, “during the winter, use soap only in areas where it’s necessary” and moisturize immediately following the shower. Also, she recommends using a humidifier in your home if you’re prone to dry skin. Charlotte Skin & Laser, 130 Providence Rd., Charlotte, 704.333.9113; charlotteskinandlaser.com
Seal it up!
Founded in 1935, the Sealup brand of outerwear has been synonymous with quality and passion for luxury garments since its inception. Sealup is 100 percent Italian, from design to production, and is now recognized as one of the most highly innovative rainwear and outerwear collections on the planet. With its patented process, thermoadhesivate, Sealup has created a windproof and rainproof garment that is as functional as it is beautiful. Shown here is Sealup’s 100 percent wool dense twill Long Peacoat, a water-repellant overcoat that will keep you warm and dry for years to come.
Moore & Giles recently announced the addition of The Bespoke Program to its comprehensive collection of leather travel bags, portfolios and briefcases. From a select palette of French calfskin and Italian vegetabletanned bull hides, you have the opportunity to put your personal stamp on a number of their most classic items. Individually made in New York, these limited-edition pieces can be made to your exact material specifications. Taylor Richards & Conger is one of a limited number of retailers offering this innovative collection of Moore & Giles Bespoke Program leather goods. Pop in today to see these and the rest of our Moore & Giles products.
Ask Mr. Etiquette Scott morgan explains how to sail through life without giving offense. I see pictures of Hollywood guys standing on the red carpet in tuxedos and sneakers. Is this crazy pairing now permissible, or is it an affront to polite society? —Rattled in Raleigh It’s both, because the answer depends on social context. Let’s say you’re wearing a funky tuxedo jacket with jeans to a casual party. Sneakers work just fine. But if you’re attending a black-tie affair, then you shouldn’t stray too far from the norm of black calfskin lace-up shoes with NO ornamentation. How far can you stray? Black silk lace-ups with calfskin trim are OK, or, if you must let your freak flag fly, embroidered velvet slippers.
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That’s not a typo. Australian native Nicky Murphy calls himself Chet Faker as an homage to the jazz trumpeter and vocalist Chet Baker. An electronic musician, Faker uses multi-track layering and echoes of early house music to produce an infectious yet mellow sound. His vocals have an emotive, slightly spaced-out quality that can put audiences in a happy trance. This is danceable party music. It’s also baby-making music. Play it with caution.
The co-founder and leader of the Carolina Chocolate Drops says her calling is to breathe new life into old songs. Rhiannon Giddens does it remarkably well—with the Chocolate Drops; as a member of the New Basement Tapes, the T-Bone Burnett project that set rediscovered Bob Dylan lyrics to music; and on her first solo album, released this year. While she switches with ease between banjo and fiddle, Giddens’ main instrument is her glorious voice. She performs songs by Nina Simone, Dolly Parton and obscure folk singers and blueswomen of the early 20th century, as well as tunes of her own. Trained in opera, Giddens can deliver a song in any style with utter conviction.
The album: Built on Glass
Deeper dives: “Melt” and
“1998,” two songs from Built on Glass that will take up residence in your head
Go-to song: “Shake Sugaree,” a cover of an
Whether you prefer to stream on Spotify or still feel compelled to “own it” via iTunes, this new music is essential listening. By Mark Dowden Chet Faker
Go-to song: “No Diggity,” his 2011 cover of a Blackstreet song from the ’90s
Tomorrow Is My Turn
old Elizabeth Cotton tune Deeper dives: “Cornbread and Butterbeans” with the Carolina Chocolate Drops and “Forever Young” as a duet with Iron & Wine
A musical chameleon, Marti Jones has written and recorded in various styles, from jangle pop to Southern-style soul, since the mid-80s. She took time off to raise a daughter with her husband, the producer Don Dixon, and in recent years she has focused more on painting than performing. But last year saw the release of a new album consisting entirely of original bossa nova tunes. They prove to be the perfect vehicles for Jones’ light, clear voice, as refreshing as a caipirinha on the beach. The album:
You’re Not the Bossa Me Go-to song:
“You Solve Me”
Deeper dives: “Black Coffee in Bed,” Jones’ cover of the Squeeze classic; “I Love the Sound of Breaking Glass”
Leon Bridges was working as a dishwasher, writing songs and singing at open-mic nights around Fort Worth, when he released two demo songs on Soundcloud in late 2014; Columbia Records signed him in December, and he soon found himself touring with Sharon Van Etten. Bridges’ sound has been said to resemble the ’60s soul and gospel stylings of Otis Redding and Sam Cooke. Certainly he sings from the heart, and you’re likely to find yourself singing along. The album: Coming Home Go-to song: “Coming Home”
Deeper dives: “Lisa Sawyer” and “Brown Skin Girl”
Rediscovered with pleasure Each of these dozen songs is a classic in its genre and of its day. This is a fairly chill mix, punctuated by some rawness (courtesy of Heartless Bastards) and energetic high points (The Stones! The Kinks!). Try this playlist during cocktail hour or on a country drive. “This Tornado Loves You” by Neko Case “Shine” by Daniel Lanois “Any Major Dude Will Tell You” by Steely Dan “I Wish I Knew How It Would Feel” by Studio Rio and Nina Simone
“Sway” by Heartless Bastards “My Buddy” by Chet Baker “Out of Time” by The Rolling Stones “Lover, You Should’ve Come Over” by Jeff Buckley
“Do You Realize?” by The Flaming Lips “Pueblo Nuevo” by Buena Vista Social Club “Feels Like Rain” by John Hiatt “Victoria” by The Kinks
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best of the best!
Must-have pieces from our fall collections.
essentials for men
(VESTS, from inside out) Brunello Cucinelli goose down-filled vest of wool, silk and cashmere $2,925 Brunello Cucinelli goose down-filled reversible wool vest $2,960 Corneliani reversible vest of quilted suede and woven wool $750
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essentials for men navy sueded shearling topcoat with black interior by Brunello Cucinelli $7,150
navy nubuck high-top sneaker with chocolate leather trim $398 olive nubuck low-top sneaker with chocolate leather trim $350 dark smoke nubuck low-top sneaker with chocolate leather trim $350 all by To Boot New York
smoke grey brushed twill 5-pocket jeans cut sport pant $225 dark camel mini-cord 5-pocket jeans cut sport pant $225 deep blue brushed twill 5-pocket jeans cut sport pant $225 dark olive brushed twill 5-pocket jeans cut sport pant $225 vicuna washed oxford weave 5-pocket jeans cut sport pant $225
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essentials for men
To Boot New York ‘Jesse’ 2 eyelet pebble grain chukka $350 Martin Dingman ‘Giles’ side gore calfskin boot $450 To Boot New York ‘Darrin’ navy rough suede biker $450 Martin Dingman ‘Everett’ rough-out suede boot $325 To Boot New York ‘Gibson’ captoe calfskin boot with speed laces $398
Vigano black and white glen plaid $395 Valentini postman blue and pearl windowpane $425 Incotex charcoal and light grey check $450 Vigano navy and camel windowpane $395 Valentini camel, olive and wine check $550
Honeycomb Crew long-sleeve knit in mud grey $80 Zip Through Hoodie in melange grey alpaca and wool $275 Leland Jacquard cotton blend drawstring sweats $175 All by Billy Reid
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Privately owned and operated, Lucky Clays Farm embodies the rustic beauty of North Carolinaâ€™s Central Piedmont. Our spacious location of over 450 acres, with versatile indoor and outdoor settings, provides a unique destination for your
Where Business & Nature Meet
next private business function or corporate retreat. Our state-of-the-art facilities offer an experience unlike any other.
For more information, or to book your next corporate event, please contact us at 1-855-858-LUCK (5825) or visit our website at luckyclaysfarm.com
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man of style
Bill Berry President and Chief Executive Officer, American Tire Distributors
y now my salesman, Chris, must have a file a mile thick on me! I’ve been shopping at TRC for about 15 years, and he knows what I like and what I’m comfortable in. I trust him to help me find exactly what I’m looking for. My job doesn’t require suits. It’s a businesscasual environment, so I typically go to work in a nice shirt and sportcoat. Still, in my position it wouldn’t be appropriate for me to wear clothes just off the rack. I like a clean, classic look and usually stick to cotton and wool fabrics. I’ll wear some patterns and colors, but nothing too bold. Chris will push me a little outside my comfort zone—introducing more colors, say—without losing sight of my conservative aesthetic. He’s not going to bring out something that’s bright orange, for example. And I trust him to expand my horizons. After all this time, my wife knows if I come home in something Chris picked out instead of me. This year I was looking for something cool and fun to wear to the Kentucky Derby. Chris and the other TRC staffers went through styles and fabrics with me so that I could have exactly the right garment made. The final product, a light blue pinstriped jacket, was just what I had in mind. Finding quality pieces that are comfortable and custom-fitted makes a big difference, and the store’s selection and high quality are like what you’d see in New York City. I love everything TRC has to offer. But it’s the art of personal service that really keeps me coming back.
Bill is wearing Kiton’s 100% cashmere navy, vicuna and camel windowpane jacket paired with Ermenegildo Zegna’s cotton dress shirt and wool trousers. His Luciano Barbera tie is all cashmere, and his printed wool pocket square is by Edward Armah.
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OUTFITTING AMERICA’S FINEST HOMES SINCE 1991
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icon Jazz trumpeter, bandleader and composer Miles Davis was an original who gave thought to every note of musicâ€”and to the distinctive sartorial notes he struck as well.
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For the Picasso of jazz, nothing was incidental— not the notes he played on the trumpet or the absence of buttons on his sportcoat sleeves. By Maria Lissandrello
f anyone knew from cool, it was Miles Davis. The legendary jazz musician got his start in the mid-1940s, moving from his native St. Louis to Manhattan to study at Juilliard—and play the trumpet with Charlie Parker, Thelonious Monk and other cats on the bebop scene in Harlem. Even as a teenager, he had a sartorial style that was well thought out. Although his Brooks Brothers suits came from the friendly neighborhood pawnshop, Davis made them his own by slitting notches in the lapels in homage to the Duke of Windsor. Nothing about his appearance—or his music—was incidental. When he raised his trumpet to his lips, he controlled every detail. Designer and fashion illustrator Joe Eula recalled the instructions the jazz great gave him for an outfit he was to wear onstage: “When we talked about the jacket, we knew it could be no more than 54 inches from one arm to the other, straight out.” It was calculated, you see, to reveal no more than an inch of Davis’ bespoke shirts and cufflinks. And when he turned his back to his audience (something he was wont to do—a statement, some said), the natural drop shoulders were perfectly orchestrated, his jackets cut to accommodate his slouchy playing posture. By the mid-’50s, the Juilliard dropout had transitioned to the Ivy League, getting his suits custom-made at Harvard Square’s Andover Shop. There, owner and jazz fan Charlie Davidson came to know his preferences: English tweed and madras jackets with a natural shoulder and narrow lapel, chinos and flannel trousers, and broadcloth shirts with button-down collars. On Davis’ feet, Bass Weejun loafers—a
choice that made other men question their own footwear. Davis became so renowned for his fashion sense (wearing “what the well-dressed man will wear next year,” said Down Beat magazine in 1960) that press releases on his upcoming gigs reported not just the musical program but his outfits too—pink seersucker jackets, skin-tight trousers, Italian-cut suits, handmade doeskin loafers, a beige pongee suit. In the 1950s and ’60s, the trumpet player and band leader emerged as one of the most famous jazz artists in the world, not just for his music but for his image too. He was the subject of a Playboy interview and became the first jazzman to appear on the cover of Rolling Stone. A pivotal point in his career came in 1959, when his band released what would become the best-selling—and most influential—jazz album of all time, Kind of Blue. Romantic, melancholic and beautifully melodic, it ushered in a new jazz style. Ever-evolving both in his music and his wardrobe, Davis rewrote the jazz rulebook in the late 1960s by incorporating electric instruments into his band, creating a looser, rock-influenced improvisational style. At first, on albums like In a Silent Way and Bitches Brew, it was dubbed “jazz-rock” or “fusion.” But when the ’70s arrived he abandoned jazz completely—and his sartorial style became as funky and avant-garde as his music. Somehow he managed to get away with wearing purple bell-bottoms, kipper ties and hexagonal glasses. It was part of the trademark swagger and confidence of Miles Davis. And yeah, he was still cool.
fall / winter 2015
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Scandinavian... but born in the USA
For incomparable Eton shirts, there are other stops along the way.
ounded by husband-and-wife team David and Annie Pettersson in the village of Gånghester, Sweden, Eton has been synonymous with quality men’s shirts since 1928—but Eton hasn’t always been its name. The original name, Shirt Factory Special, changed in 1948 following a visit by the two entrepreneurs to England. “They fell in love with Eton, a
charming English town with a storied history, and a new brand moniker was born,” says Chris Donohue, Director of Sales in North America. Today the company’s luxe shirts, ties, scarves and pocket squares are sold around the world, yet this still partly family-owned operation continues to pride itself on superior garments that take up to six months to craft.
This international story actually begins in America, as 90 percent of Eton’s extra-long staple (ELS) cotton comes from San Joaquin County in California. (The rest is grown in Egypt.) “ELS, which accounts for only 3 percent of the world’s cotton, has superior fiber qualities, such as stronger filaments and higher torsion thread, which is why we use it exclusively,” Donohue explains.
After harvest, raw fibers are shipped to Italy, where they’re spun and woven by some of the world’s most highly skilled artisans. Albini Group, located in Albino, Italy, is famous for its looming, and Eton is its largest partner. “Besides conceiving new patterns and color combinations for our shirts and ties, we also constantly invent novel weaving techniques that continuously revolutionize the market,” says Donohue.
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In Switzerland, all shirts next go through a specialized—and top-secret—finishing process, wherein scientifically trained workers actually alter the cotton’s molecular structure to make it more wrinkle-resistant. Most manufacturers try to prevent creases with a formaldehyde-based topical treatment that coats fibers, but that method has two drawbacks: Sealing cotton means it can’t “breathe,” with the result that clothes tend to trap heat, and the substance washes off after several dry-cleaning cycles. Says Donohue: “While that procedure takes four days to complete, our finish is accomplished over the course of four weeks.”
Cutting, sewing and trimming of Eton garments happen in Eastern Europe, at exclusive production facilities bordering the Black Sea. It’s an exceptionally controlled 40-step process that alone takes one month to execute. “By remaining hyper-focused on shirts, ties and other accessories, we’ve been able to perfect our manufacturing process since Eton’s earliest days,” says Donohue.
At a time when many clothing manufacturers use the quickest production methods to meet bottom-line pressures, Eton opts for the refinement that only an investment of time can provide. And while many competitors outsource some operations, again to save money, Eton owns its entire international production process. It is therefore able to control all aspects of the creation of each shirt, assuring unparalleled quality. —Francesca Moisin fall / winter 2015
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Fall style selections: your checklist for the very best.
essentials for women
Paraboot captoe oxford in red calf $650 Paraboot indigo calf wingtip $650
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essentials for women
Herno goose down-filled jacket with rabbit fur trim $995 Eleventy hooded down-fill vest with fox fur trim $1,295 Eleventy nylon-fill zip-front vest with fox fur trim $830
fossilized dinosaur bone and pavĂŠ diamond bracelet $1,375 bone beading with vintage charm bracelet $225 fossilized dinosaur bone, vintage bone and pavĂŠ diamond beading bracelet $1,500 matte lapis and gold bi-cone beading bracelet $325 tiger striped beading with antique coin charm bracelet $250 ebony and vintage bead bracelet $225 all by Elizabeth Martin
Transit embossed calf with satin nickel buckle $195 Transit washed calfskin with vintage beading $245 Hartford herringbone calfskin with leather and brass domed buckle $175 Hartford vintage calf with bronze roller buckle $175 Post & Co washed calfskin and hornback gator strap $395
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essentials for women
Brunello Cucinelli snapfront cardigan with monili trim $2,460 Fabiana Filippi wool, silk and cashmere turtleneck with monili trim $750 Fabiana Filippi wool, silk and cashmere colorblocked dress with monili trim $850 Brunello Cucinelli closed toe heels with monili trim $1,595
cashmere texting gloves in midnight, camel and Mediterranean blue by Johnstons of Elgin, $60 each
(navy on bottom) Cashmere and silk scarf with pearl fringe by Faliero Sarti $425 (blue grey with wine) Cashmere, wool and silk scarf by Faliero Sarti $415 (ecru and greige) 100% cashmere scarf by Faliero Sarti $350 (navy and bone print) wool and cashmere scarf by Epice $395
Massimo Palomba nubuck and shrunken calf shoulder bag $550 Massimo Palomba cross-body clutch with adjustable strap $265
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Deb Roney GenMark Diagnostics
y style tends to be classic and neutral. Being a former Marine, I’m drawn to earth tones in clothing rather than bold colors, and I prefer to accessorize with jewelry because it adds interest to my natural look. For example, I love that TRC W offers Elizabeth Martin’s fossilized dinosaur bone bracelets because they mix those earth tones I like with a bit of texture. I often travel for work, so I need clothes that travel well—like a suit I can throw into a large suitcase that will be ready to go when I arrive. Good quality clothes, like those from TRC W, are great for that. And higher quality always means more comfort, so the extra cost is well worth it to me. As a corporate account manager and mother of two young children, I don’t have a lot of time to shop or keep up with what’s trendy. But I can trust the salespeople at TRC W to give me honest feedback and tell me if something doesn’t look right. They are so amazing because they do the work for me! At TRC W’s recent Art Meets Fashion With a Heart charity event, I tried on a jacket that was really unique—the collar was a bit edgy, which isn’t normally my style or personality—but I bought it anyway. Everyone loved it on me and helped me become more confident in my decision. Now it’s my favorite jacket. That’s just one example of how the salespeople there are so helpful and down to earth. I enjoy getting to know them. My husband shops at TRC, the men’s store, and if we’re out for a date night, we will stop in just to say “hi.” That relationship makes all the difference in the world to me.
Deb is wearing Onorati’s light blue virgin wool jacket with velvet trim detail over a cashmere crew-neck sweater by Rossopuro. Her jeans are by Goldsign, and on her wrist she has stacked three Elizabeth Martin bracelets.
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trendsetter Sweet meets saucy as British actress Emily Blunt shows off a ruffled baby-doll dress, ribbon-tied textured stockingsâ€”and a look that could melt a heart of steel.
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emily blunt This charming young Brit is unafraid to make bold choices on stage, on screen—and in the world of fashion. By Mimi Smith
t 32, British actress Emily Blunt has secured her spot in Hollywood’s hierarchy with a series of compelling performances—including a Golden Globe-winning supporting role in the 2007 BBC miniseries Gideon’s Daughter—and held her own on screen with the likes of Meryl Streep and Dame Judi Dench. And she’s no sartorial wallflower either. Blunt’s daring red-carpet fashion choices are consistently documented for the masses of fashionistas who envy her impeccable style. Will anyone soon forget the shimmering, crystal-studded Stella McCartney dress she wore to the recent Sicario premiere at the 68th annual Cannes Film Festival? A subtle yet arresting actress with piercing eyes and crisp comedic chops, Blunt could nevertheless be the girl next door. She grew up in southwest London, the second of four children of an actress-turnedteacher and a barrister whose real-life courtroom dramas she credits for her ability to play enigmatic characters. If that seems a perfect pedigree for thespian success, remember that—as Blunt once reminded The Guardian in an interview—“nobody goes through life unscathed.” In childhood Blunt
struggled with a severe stutter that left her frustrated and somewhat isolated. It took an insightful teacher’s suggestion that she portray a heavily accented character in a school play (an idea at which 12-year-old Blunt initially balked) to open her up to fluency. Today her diction is perfect, but her memory remains keen—she serves on the board of the nonprofit American Institute for Stuttering. The actress attended Hurtwood House, a school known for its performing arts program, where she excelled at the cello. She also did enough acting to be discovered by an agent, who placed her in several period dramas. Her debut professional play, The Royal Family, put her opposite Dench and earned her the “Best Newcomer” award from the Evening Standard. Though she started on stage, Blunt’s breakout performance came in a film: the 2004 U.K. production My Summer of Love, in which she played Tamsin, a self-described “fantasist” who indulges in a lesbian affair. In 2006, the actress gained the world’s attention as the hilariously haughty assistant to Miranda Priestly (a character allegedly based on Vogue’s Anna Wintour) in The Devil Wears Prada. And if Blunt can play haughty, she can also be positively imperial, as she proved in the title role in 2009’s The Young Victoria. Blunt is as versatile in attire as she is in performance, and she doesn’t stick to “safe” choices. She’s been seen in everything from a fire-engine red Georges Chakra gown with a low-cut lace back to a beaded black Jenny Packham femme fatale gown with a sheer skirt to a blush pink chiffon dress. She is also a master at casual chic, and at moments of leisure can be found rocking skinny jeans, booties, oversized sweaters and aviator glasses. The star shares those moments with actor John Krasinski, best known as the comparatively sane young fellow on the stateside version of TV’s The Office, whom she married in 2010. Just last year, the couple welcomed their daughter Hazel into the world—but not before Blunt posed in a skin-tight nude dress for Vogue at eight months pregnant. She looked fabulous. Blunt’s most important role as a mother may slow her pace for a while, but it won’t stop us from seeing her in interesting parts. Following her work in Salmon Fishing in the Yemen (2011), The Five-Year Engagement (2012), Edge of Tomorrow (2014— opposite Tom Cruise) and the musical Into the Woods (2014), this year’s star performance in the crime drama Sicario is as a Tucson cop. And she’s currently filming The Huntsman, due for a 2016 release. Streep? Dench? The future promises another one-syllable synonym for enduring greatness: Blunt!
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power Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car. By Luca Sumberac
eauty. Class. Poise. Think of Bentley Motors, and those are some of the words that come to mind. However, what most people don’t realize is that the automotive institution also has deep roots in speed, power and racing. Enter the Bentley Mulsanne, a luxurious limousine-like sedan with raw power that harks back to Bentley’s rich history of automotive excellence. It’s no coincidence that the vehicle derives its name from the renowned
John craig Trcstyle.com
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Rarely if ever in automotive history has such an agile dynamo also offered such regal comfort.
This page: The Mulsanne brings unmistakable grandeur to the road, with zesty performance getaway in Monaco. And herein straightaway on the legendary Circuit that belies its aristocratic luxury. Its handcrafted interior reflects meticulous craftsmanship—in lies its genius: It’s also easy to de La Sarthe, home to one of the most one option, Apple iPad workstations with Internet access are integrated into retractable “picimagine the Mulsanne screaming iconic races in auto sports—24 Hours nic tables” in the rear cabin. Opposite, from top: an optional classic “flying B” hood ornament, a 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine and a wheel crafted from a single piece of aluminum. down the Autobahn at speeds well of Le Mans. A race, by the way, that over 100 mph. Bentley has won six times. Even more The exterior features the unmistakable Bentley headlights, a beautiful impressive? Bentley ranks fifth in the total number of Le Mans wins, placing polished stainless steel grille and unique 20˝ alloy wheels (21˝ alloys availbehind Jaguar, Audi, Ferrari and Porsche. able as an upgrade). Want to ensure your Mulsanne’s uniqueness? How about Let’s be clear. The Mulsanne is not a supercar; it’s not even a sports some customization? Spring for the exterior accoutrements available with car. It’s something more. It melds the best of luxury, comfort and perforthe Mulliner Driving Specification option, which adds “Flying B” wing vents mance cues and wraps them up in one of the classiest bows on the market. and the iconic “Flying B” radiator mascot. Still not enough? With more than Spy the Mulsanne (consider yourself lucky if you do) and you’re instantly 100 exterior paint colors, 24 interior hide colors or a bespoke option in which struck by its contours—the elegant yet powerful lines emanate regalyou’ll work with Bentley to create a custom color scheme, there are plenty of ness. And like the most stately of kings, it commands attention. After all, combinations that will make your Mulsanne like no other— it’s big—Henry VIII big. At just over 18 feet long and crucial if you plan on pulling up to a swanky gala. almost 6,000 pounds, it’s the type of car you’d imagBentley High Point is your So what powers this three-ton piece of art? Credit ine seeing on Rodeo Drive shepherding sheiks, earls, local source for the Mulsanne. goes to a 6.75-liter, twin-turbo V8 that produces 505 viscounts and baronesses on extravagant shopping trips, 1730 N. Main St. , High Point, 336.884.1420 bhp and 752 lb. ft of torque. All that power means the or chauffeuring Hollywood royalty during a weekend BENTLEYHIGHPOINT.COM
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going from 0 to 60 in 5.1 seconds and can reach a top speed of 184 mph! Those are impressive numbers for a car that weighs more than a Chevy Suburban. And inside? Whether you’ll be enjoying the Mulsanne in the driver’s seat, riding shotgun or taking up the rear, you’ll be greeted by an interior second to none. For starters, it’s dripping in leather—16 cowhides, to be precise, carefully curated to avoid any defects. Complementing the leather is one continuous veneer that wraps around the entire interior. Take your pick of Burr Walnut, Dark Stained Burr Walnut or Piano Black. If those options don’t catch your eye, you’ll be able to choose from eight other veneers. There are plenty of amenities on board—12v sockets, 14 speakers standard (audiophiles may want to upgrade to the 20-speaker Naim system) and programmable settings to adjust for different drivers. Oh, and let’s not forget the option of adding a frosted-glass bottle cooler with accompanying champagne flutes (ideal for those who prefer to be chauffeured)! At the end of the day, the Mulsanne won’t break any track records, it doesn’t get great gas mileage (11 mpg city/18 mpg highway) and its poster might not adorn the walls of 12-year-old car lovers. But none of that matters. It doesn’t need blistering speed. It doesn’t need exotic looks. It’s built for enjoyment of a higher class. The Mulsanne stands out without even trying—and that’s what makes this car so special.
The Mulsanne at a Glance
base price $306,425
Weight 5,919 lbs.
Dimensions length 18 feet, 3 inches, wheelbase 10 feet, 8 inches
Engine 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 with cam phasing and variable displacement
Gearbox 8-speed automatic
Suspension Air springs with continuous damping control; four driver-selectable settings
Output 505 bhp @ 4200 rpm, 752 lb.-ft. torque @ 1750 rpm
Top speed 184 mph
0 to 60 mph in 5.1 seconds
Weight-to-power ratio 11.8 lbs./HP
Closest competitor Rolls Royce Ghost Series II
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client meeting? check. romantic getaway? check. weekend errands? check. let trc fill all your sartorial needs. (we have these looks in stock!) Photography by Thien La Styling by Madison Haslam & Doug Gravely Makeup by Catherin Mahlin Hair by Aura Elizabeth Claytor
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the romance of
With beauty, beaches and the bossa nova, this South American metropolis stirs the passions.
By Everett Potter
or some destinations, the arrival of the Summer Olympics would be the biggest news ever. But it’s just one more feather in the cap of next year’s host city, Rio de Janeiro, whose “Carnival,” the world’s largest, draws 2 million revelers into the streets each spring. You probably know Rio even if you’ve never visited. Movies delight in the art deco statue of Christ that presides over the harbor, rising more than 100 feet from its perch on a 2,300-foot mountain called
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The idea of building a large statue atop Corcovado was first suggested in the mid1850s. It came to fruition in 1931, when Christ the Redeemer made its debut, arms outstretched as a symbol of peace.
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This page, Cariocas enjoy a game of football on Ipanema beach. Opposite, from top, the tranquil pool lounge at the Hotel Santa Teresa, a perfect place to relax and have a drink or a light meal; Selarón’s Steps in Lapa, a colorful tiled stairway created over the course of 20 years by the late Chilean artist Jorge Selarón; a Zen-like suite at the boutique Hotel Santa Teresa.
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Corcovado. And if you’ve seen images of the conical mountains, the undulating coastline and the colorful architectural heritage of the city’s 450 years, you realize Rio looks like something the surrealist artist Salvador Dalí might have conceived. But you simply must come in the flesh, not so much to learn as to luxuriate—in the sights, the sun, the tastes, the beat. You’ll keep returning. Along fabled strands like Copacabana and Ipanema, high-rises face the surf of Guanabara Bay. The hippest of the 6 million Cariocas—Rio residents—can be seen going from apartment to beach in nothing more than a skimpy black bathing suit and flip-flops, cell phones to their ears, wraparound designer shades de rigueur, their tans at a level of perfection most of us can only dream of. But above their neighborhoods rise mountains that are a patchwork of jungle and shantytowns known as favelas. Rio is stylish and hedonistic, but it’s also a big city, with some spots as glamorous as Paris and others as edgy as Detroit, often within a few blocks. To experience the world’s most mannered beach rituals, choose cool Ipanema and hang out at the area marked Posto 9, the epicenter of beach hip. Styleconscious Cariocas set up their umbrellas alongside the thundering surf, but surprisingly few ever swim, as riptides can be fierce. Instead, they preen and socialize, in a display of exhibitionism and vanity of the highest order. Women wear tiny bathing suits known as fio dental—dental floss—while men favor an abbreviated Speedo-like style called a sunga. The hyper-fit play volleyball as well as the uber-athletic hybrid of soccer and volleyball called futevolei. If you’ve spent the day with “The Girl from Ipanema” playing in your head, grab a chopp, a Brazilian draft beer, at Garota de Ipanema on Rua Vinicius de Moraes, where Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes penned the legendary song in 1962. It introduced the world to the sound called bossa nova or “new beat.” With a few well-chosen words of Portuguese, you can handle Rio’s taxi drivers and have them take you all over the “Cidade Marvilhosa”—marvelous city. The Chácara do Céu museum in Santa Teresa is the former home of industrialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya. He collected Brazilian, European and Asian art, but his modernist house is equally fascinating. Then head to Praça Tiradentes, a public square in the city’s center, ditch the cab and walk to Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura, fall / winter 2015
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a 19th-century library whose main reading room is a veritable cathedral of books reaching to the sky. Walk a few blocks to a pedestrian-only street called Gonçalves-Dias and step into the magnificent eatery known as Confeitaria Colombo, a riot of Art Nouveau mirrors and stained glass from 1894. Grab a seat at one of the marble tables, order a hearts-of-palm salad, and follow it with a cafezinho, Brazilian coffee, and traditional Portuguese sweets. You’ll find the brightest star for lodging in the hilly Santa Teresa neighborhood. It’s the Hotel Santa Teresa, which was formerly a 19th-century fazenda, or ranch. This Relais & Châteaux property boasts high style and amazing views of the bay. Inside there are 44 suites decorated with folk art from the Amazon and mid-century modern pieces by Brazilian designer Sergio Rodrigues. Simple fourposter beds and a Zen-like minimalism are hallmarks of the rooms. There is a slate swimming pool, perfect for a sweltering Rio day, and a neighborhood that has in the past decade evolved from edgy to hip. The fazenda’s former senzala (slave quarters), now houses the lively Bar dos Descasados. When it comes to dining, nearby is Aprazível, which has fine views, a welcoming garden and a menu that highlights Brazilian seafood, with dishes such as orange-infused tropical fish with coconut rice and roasted plantains. Zuka is more cutting-edge, offering fusion cuisine that takes Brazilian ingredients and blends them with European staples— rack of lamb with passion fruit, for example. Zazá keeps the emphasis on Asian accents, and diners lounge on throw pillows—try the grilled namorado (perch) served with caramelized plantains. Then it’s time to go out. Cariocas say it doesn’t matter whether you are rich or poor in Lapa, because everyone comes to this neighborhood for the same things: music, dancing and a well-made caipirinha, the national cocktail of sliced limes, sugar, ice and cachaca, a sugar-cane liquor. Among the best clubs are Rio Scenarium, an eccentric boîte that’s jammed with antiques as well as partygoers and a live band playing samba or chorino. You can also dance and hear music at Carioca da Gema, which began the Lapa revival and is filled with bossa nova lovers every night. I also like Centro Cultural Carioca. A former dance hall, this two-story space has samba lessons downstairs while in the vast, windowed upstairs hall, an array of performers play various styles of Brazilian music. The blending of music and food is part of the extraordinary melding of cultures that defines Rio de Janeiro, one of the world’s liveliest and most surprising cities.
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This page, dancing at Carnival, a world-famous, five-day celebration that takes place 40 days before Easter. Opposite, from top, drummers getting into the samba groove during Carnival; one of the the many colorful, architecturally rich streets in Rioâ€™s Bohemian Santa Teresa neighborhood; riding a cable car up to iconic Sugar Loaf Mountain, which offers stunning views of the city.
Hotel Santa Teresa +55 21 3380 0200 email@example.com santa-teresa-hotel.com
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rich, textured hues make these fashions the season’s must-have pieces. they’re great basics— and anything but boring. and they’re all available at trc w. Photography by Thien La Styling by Madison Haslam & Doug Gravely Makeup by Catherin Mahlin Hair by Aura Elizabeth Claytor
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off-road rascal Call it a “utility” vehicle if you like, but this four-wheeler gobbles tough terrain for the sheer kick of it. By Michael Hiller
f you’re searching for your weapon in the war against the ordinary, we’ve found it. The 2015 Polaris RZR XP 1000 is not the kind of vehicle you buy for a quick zip to Whole Foods. The farmers’ market crowd might not appreciate its best-in-class 110-horsepower engine, high-output cams, direct-flow intake covers or agile suspension—specs that not even the most extreme, race-modified side-by-sides can touch. But what a lesser UTV won’t do is eat up every inch of wild terrain you can throw at it, from salt flats to deep woods mud to sand dunes. Tap on the gas and this beast grunts with raw power. Once its 29-inch Outlaw II tires grip the earth, the four-stroke DOHC twin cylinders fire the XP 1000 like a rocket, plopping every other two-seat UTV in its class in the rear view mirror. You don’t need a master’s degree in applied physics to know that this four-wheeler is going to be a whole lot of fun. Inside the open cockpit, the 2015 RZR delivers thoughtful details you’d expect from
Polaris, including full doors, electronic power steering, adjustable performance comfort seats with deep side bolsters, LED interior lighting, a tilt steering wheel and plenty of interior storage. Cabin and floor clean-outs inside the vehicle make even the sloppiest days an easy recovery. With its street brawler looks and street cred specs, the XP 1000 comes ready to rumble. Buckle yourself into the driver’s seat and prepare to leave the work week behind. You’ll want to do things you’d never do in any other vehicle. Fly over obstacles instead of swerving around them. Carve corners rather than cutting them. Face down evil with a grin. That’s why the 2015 RZR XP 1000 comes in colors named Havasu Red Pearl, Voodoo Blue and White Lightning. At $20,299, Polaris’ two-seater isn’t for everyone. But for those who choose it, it’s a gut-aching good time.
For 2015, Polaris has improved the sporty little RZR XP 1000, redesigning the clutch cover, secondary helix and ducting apparatus to create the most durable clutch system yet.
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Village at SouthPark
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some like it
By Michael Hiller
once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “texas red.”
erlingua, Texas, population 58, isn’t much to look at—a dusty ghost town of caliche roads, prickly ocotillo and sagebrush tangles. But on the first Saturday of November each year, this patch of desert west of Big Bend National Park bustles with thousands of chili fans and hundreds of cooks who arrive to compete in the town’s world-famous Chili Appreciation Society International Chili Championship. Almost overnight, the air fills with the scent of wood smoke, too much beer and simmering pots of Texas red. It’s a rowdy crowd that shares a love for country music, the Lone Star State and chili con carne, a spicy dish born on the cattle trails near San Antonio whose primary ingredients are red chiles and meat. Every other ingredient, from tomatoes to onions to seasonings, is subject to intense debate. But on one thing every Texas chili-head agrees: Real chili contains no beans. Use beans in your chili at this cook-off and you’ll be instantly disqualified. Frank Tolbert, a journalist and historian who was considered the state’s leading authority on chili until his death in 1984,
regarded beans as heretical. “Heaven help us one and all,” he wrote in response to a Yankee cook who espoused a beany recipe. “You might as well throw in some puffed rice, or a handful of shredded alfalfa, or a few maraschino cherries!” A line from the Terlingua Chili Cook-Off ’s anthem says: “If you know beans about chili, you know that chili has no beans.” Texans are no more bashful about chili than about anything else. “Chili concocted outside of Texas is a weak, apologetic imitation of the real thing,” insisted Lyndon Johnson. In 1977, the legislature proclaimed chili the “state dish,” declaring, “The only real ‘bowl of red’ is that prepared by Texans.” Of course, not everyone agrees. Nontraditionalists across the U.S. not only dare to include beans, but also like to put their own spin on this classic, adding turkey, pork, even spaghetti to their chili pots. Some say those dishes are more properly called stews or soups or casseroles. And some call them delicious. But in Terlingua, they won’t call them chili.
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This Argentine varietal has regained its reputation for subtlety and balance—and hard times actually helped. By Josh Sens
on’t cry for Malbec, Argentina! The truth is, the wine for which that country is best known came through the economic crash of the late 1990s and early 2000s. It didn’t just survive; it flourished. Over time, the downturn had an unexpected upside, as runaway inflation corrected an imbalance in the market. In the sour climate, it no longer made sense to bottle low-end Malbecs because it was pretty much impossible to turn a profit on them. So vintners slashed production of their two-buck chuck—the subpar swill they’d been pumping out for years, staining Malbec’s image around the world. “So much cheap stuff had been getting out there
This label announces a subtle, widely suitable varietal—a far cry from the not-so-distinguished table wines that recently diluted the distinction of the Malbec name.
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Clockwise from top left: Winemaker Paul Hobbs with Bertrand Vigouroux, whose family has produced Malbec in France for 150 years; wine caves at Argentina’s Pulenta Estate winery; the wine-making Pulenta family: Hugo, Don Antonio, Eduardo Jr. and Eduardo; the Viña Cobos winery in western Argentina.
early aftermath of the crash it gushed out in even greater torrents. Much of that it was hurting Malbec’s reputation,” says Paul Hobbs, a veteran wineit was over-oaked and over-extracted, with all the subtlety of a sledgehammaker and wine importer. “It was a serious problem. But the Argentine mer. Some of it was fraudulently labeled. economy solved it for us.” “It got so bad that there were ‘Malbecs’ on the market that didn’t contain As it happens, Hobbs lent a hand as well. A former winemaker for Robert Mondavi, Hobbs has roots in Malbec that run decades deep. He first turned any actual Malbec,” Hobbs says. “We used to joke that they were born with a birth certificate of Bonarda [a less nuanced grape varietal] but his mind to it in the late 1980s, when he traveled to Argenwere traveling with a Malbec passport.” tina and was struck by the varietal’s vast untapped potenMeanwhile, Hobbs kept at it, and when the economic tial. Though Malbec grew abundantly around Mendoza, tasting notes crash crushed the low end of the market, the Malbecs he the country’s largest wine-making region, its quantity far had championed came to the fore. Hobbs has since been outstripped its quality. Most Argentine Malbec wound up Cobos Malbec 2011 $210 joined by a growing number of Malbec producers who are in inexpensive blends known as “criollas”—ho-hum table A dark, elegant wine that opens with out to show the grape for all that it can be. Among them wines with not much to recommend them other than their hints of coffee and caramel, but are wineries such as Riglos and Pulenta Estate, in the bargain-basement price. Hobbs envisioned a different fate plays out on the palate with bright berry and cherry notes. rolling folds of the Mendoza region, on terrain that inches for Malbec, a noble French-born grape that he believed toward the Andes foothills, where the climate and the soil just needed to be treated with more dignity. Pulenta Estate give rise to complex fruit. Using old-vine fruit grown by Nicolas Catena, one Malbec 2011 $29 Like Hobbs, the vintners on these properties lean of Argentina’s most respected vintners, Hobbs began a The first impression: French oak toward low-tech practices, a minimalist approach that deep dive into Malbec, applying Old World practices to and mulling spices. But those wintry lets the winning traits of the grape shine through. Their New World wine production. The result was Malbecs of notes make way for a springtime symphony of lavendar and vintages demonstrate impressive range—some lean and unusual refinement, not the high-alcohol brutes that so honeysuckle, followed by a clean supple, others round-bodied and robust. And contrary to many consumers had come to know. plum-tinted finish. Malbec’s stubborn reputation as a varietal best suited to In 1999, Hobbs co-founded Viña Cobos, a Mendoza Riglos Gran steakhouse fare, these wines are strikingly food-friendly, winery, where he experimented with varied root stocks, Malbec 2012 pairing beautifully with sirloin, sure, but also with pasta, planting the varietal on new sites that showcased Malbec’s $35 seafood, curries and more. distinctive terroir. The wines he produced earned wideA juicy but balanced wine that never grows too jammy, it mingles “To a lot of people, it used to seem that Malbec had spread accolades for their bright notes and balance. But in floral flavors with a ripe minerality, a serious problem,” Hobbs says. “But the bigger problem the world of Malbec they were the exception, not the rule. and a just-right touch of tannins was, we didn’t really understand the grape.” Cheap Malbec still flooded the market, and in the tickles the tongue.
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a beauty on the beach Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. By Rita Guarna
From top, Should you tire of relaxing on the beach, a tranquil pool awaits at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. Enjoy cocktails for two with a breathtaking view from this private ocean-facing perch.
f the Hotel St.-Barth Isle de France were a woman, you could say she married well. French luxury brand LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) could have its choice of lovely “mademoiselles” when searching for a suitable match in North America, but the boutique hotel on Anse des Flamands, probably the prettiest beach on the island, won out and after a year-long engagement (read: renovation), it joined the exalted Cheval Blanc family. (Other family members include Courchevel in France and Randheli in the Maldives.) Perhaps the best part of the union is that it appears that little has changed at the beloved hotel, now called the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. The staff—the hotel’s heart and soul—remains the same: affable, accommodating to a fault and decidedly French. The only difference is that now they don charming seersucker uniforms. Similar too are the guest quarters—40 suites, bungalows and villas, which feel less like hotel rooms than the bedrooms of a Provençal family. The whitewashed country furnishings have been upgraded with the brand’s signature taupe plus accents of the palest salmon-pink, which you’ll find on everything from beach towels to pillows to glassware. Thankfully, the popular daily fashion shows remain too. They feature resort wear from the hotel’s closet-sized boutique stuffed with everything from Pucci bikinis and stylish caftans to straw hats and jewelry. Don’t be surprised if the model, Roxane, looks familiar: When she’s not strolling the sandy catwalk, she’s taking your dinner order in a charmingly halting English. Oh, yes, the food. As a French territory, St. Barts not surprisingly has a cuisine that reminds you of dining in the south of France. Chef Yann Vinsot oversees a pair of excellent eateries on this property: La Case de L’Isle, featuring sophisticated FrenchCaribbean plates (plus a 150-odd selection of wines and champagnes) and the more casual La Cabane de L’Isle, site of the fashion shows. Only eight miles across, St. Barts (short for St. Barthélemy and sometimes spelled St. Barth) is a hilly (thanks to a number of volcanic peaks) speck popping out of the northeast Caribbean in the French West Indies. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493 (who named it for his brother Bartolomeo), the island was settled by the French and owned for a while by Sweden before returning to French control. It became chichi
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after the Rockefellers and Rothschilds fell for its charm in the mid-’50s. With no direct flights, getting to St. Barts isn’t easy. Some folks fly to St. Maarten and take a short flight or ferry across. A more civilized crossing (read: easier) is flying to San Juan, then boarding a tiny puddle jumper. One of Tradewind Aviation’s multiple daily flights will do nicely. Its Pilatus PC-12s are comfortable and sturdy—important features as the eight-seater threads between two jagged peaks before touching down on a teensy runway. (Flights from St. Thomas and Antigua are also available.) While the atmosphere is relaxed, folks do dress to impress while shopping or dining in the capital city, Gustavia, with its yacht-lined harbor. (The island hosts one of the world’s most thrilling yacht races, Les Voiles de St. Barth.) Luxury brands abound along with unique boutiques, often outposts of exclusive Parisian designers. Prefer to test your sea legs with a more gentle cruise? Rent a catamaran with crew for a day-long or half-day tour. Our captain, Miguel of St. Barth Sailor, anchored in the bay near Colombier, where we swam to the beach (the only one of 16 beaches not easily accessible), after which we sipped champagne and nibbled on a gourmet lunch prepared by Cheval Blanc (lest we miss the restaurants’ gastronomic delights too much). Back on terra firma, we proceeded to Bonito, where fashionistas flock to enjoy a delicious Latin American menu alongside unrivaled views of the harbor from an open-air pavilion. If your “cruise” doesn’t offer enough of a respite, the spa back at Cheval Blanc will chase away any lingering stress. It offers signature Guerlain treatments. (It’s the only Guerlain spa in the Caribbean.) Try the Solar Escape, a body massage combined with a facial, or let a beauty coach choose an indulgent experience for you. Do you think you could enjoy an island with no casinos, no all-inclusives, no cruise ships in port? An island with no poverty, no crime, no beach vendors? With unfailingly polite people, awe-inspiring vistas, white sand (or shell or stone) beaches and top-notch cuisine? I do. Clockwise from top, a private pool, one of the many amenities of the tucked-away Garden Suites; modeling the statement-making fashions available at the tony boutique; snorkeling in the blue waters of the Caribbean right in the resort’s backyard; the ultimate in luxury: a three-bedroom villa set on the white sand beach; salade niçoise, perfect for a light lunch.
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Pages 58-59 Left: eleventy double-breasted wool topcoat; finamore washed cotton sport shirt; taylor richards & conger washed cashmere crew sweater; vigano enzyme washed cotton sport pant; martin dingman rough-out suede boot; orciani washed leather sport belt; johnstons of elgin cashmere scarf. Right: eleventy quilted suede vest; gitman vintage button-down sport shirt; maurizio baldassari wool and cashmere drop needle stitch sweater; vigano wool cargo sport pant; paraboot pebble-grained wingtip boot; w. kleinberg bison sport belt.
cover On her: Brunello Cucinelli charcoal cotton top with sheer silk sleeves; Brunello Cucinelli tan suede skirt; Aireheart by Sydney pyrite necklace with pearl teardrop. On him: luigi bianchi mantova charcoal grey windowpane suit; ermenegildo zegna spread collar dress shirt with lapis stripes; nicky woven silk tie in navy with sky blue dots; taylor richards & conger printed wool pocket square.
Pages 60-61 Left: brunello cucinelli leather bomber with detachable shearling collar; brunello cucinelli olive heather crew with pearl grey tipping; sanfort printed cotton sport shirt; brunello cucinelli wool/silk/cotton flannel necktie; mason’s dogtooth check cotton sport pant; to boot new york captoe boot; orciani rough-out suede sport belt. Right: billy reid herringbone topcoat with leather detailing; billy reid cotton flannel sport shirt; billy reid ‘Shiloh Shawl’ sweatshirt; pt01 enzyme washed cotton sport pant; martin dingman vintage nubuck loafer; w. kleinberg American bison sport belt; brunello cucinelli weekender bag.
Left: harris wharf london soft jacket; crossley vintage wash merino wool V-neck; crossley enzyme washed crew tee; crossley washed cotton sweatpants; to boot new york charcoal suede sneakers. Right: maurizio baldassari shaker knit wool cardigan; brunello cucinelli down-filled sport vest; brunello cucinelli indigo long-sleeve polo; pt01 wool windowpane plaid sport pant; paraboot wingtip pebble-grained boot; orciani stretch woven leather sport belt.
Left: brunello cucinelli vicuna tone sportcoat; brunello cucinelli double-button cuff denim shirt; brunello cucinelli wool and silk collegiate stripe necktie; brunello cucinelli single-pleat wool and cotton sport pant; roda printed wool and silk pocket square; paraboot pebble-grained monk strap; orciani alligator tile embossed sport belt. Right: harris wharf london bouclé topcoat; culturata navy and wine checked sport shirt; taylor richards & conger zip-front cashmere vest with suede piping; bigi woven wool necktie; pt01 slim-fit dress trousers; martin dingman side gore boot; w. kleinberg tumbled calf sport belt.
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Left: luigi bianchi mantova wool windowpane suit; ermenegildo zegna spread collar dress shirt; nicky woven silk tie in navy with sky blue dots; taylor richards & conger printed wool pocket square; santoni 3-eyelet chukka with rubber sole. Right: luigi bianchi mAntova hydro-tech 100% cashmere walking coat; ermenegildo zegna deep blue and charcoal plaid suit; canali cotton twill dress shirt; nicky woven silk necktie in navy and berry; roda wool and silk printed pocket square; santoni hand-stained dress bluchers; w. kleinberg dome-buckle gator embossed calf belt.
Left: Pas De Calais wool and rayon navy blazer; Pas de Calais white button-down blouse; Goldsign light grey stretch jean; Aireheart by Sydney gunmetal and diamond necklace; Faliero Sarti wool and silk navy and grey scarf; Pas de Calais black leather bag. Right: Hartford navy wool coat; Hartford cotton patterned blouse; Hartford burgundy corduroy pant; Transit leather studded belt; Fabiana Filippi brown leather flat booties.
Left: Boglioli dark green wool blazer; Walter Voulaz cotton white blouse; Pas De Calais charcoal denim pant; Aireheart by Sydney druzy bead necklace and bracelet with teardrop. Right: Herno bronze puffer jacket with a rabbit fur collar; Brunello Cucinelli pink cashmere sweater; Brunello Cucinelli navy cotton stretch pant; Renee Sheppard diamond necklace; Johnstons of Elgin cashmere gloves; Pas de Calais tan leather bag.
Left: Fabiana Filippi eggplant purple wool poncho sweater; Majestic cotton and viscose white longsleeve shirt; Goldsign denim jeans; Peserico multi-layered beaded necklace; Eleventy leather biker boot. Right: Harris Wharf London burgundy wool coat; Walter Voulaz white silk blouse; PT01 tan trouser; Aireheart by Sydney druzy bead necklace; Brunello Cucinelli chocolate heels with monili detailed strap.
Left: Brunello Cucinelli navy silk and wool dress; Perle by Lola silver pyrite with pearl drop necklace; Brunello Cucinelli chocolate heels with monili detailed strap. Right: Pas de Calais grey alpaca fur and wool coat; Peserico taupe polyester spandex dress; Elizabeth Martin beaded horn necklace.
Left: Brunello Cucinelli charcoal cotton top with sheer silk sleeves; Brunello Cucinelli tan suede skirt; Aireheart by Sydney pyrite necklace with pearl teardrop; Brunello Cucinelli chocolate heels with monili detailed strap. Right: Eleventy brown suede dress with side zipper detail; Eleventy fox fur snood scarf; Paraboot heeled bootie with red zipper detail.
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look good, keep well
A new study found that folks who drank four or more cups of caffeinated coffee (about two Grandes at Starbucks) had a 25 percent lower risk of developing melanoma, the most dangerous form of skin cancer, over 10 years. Researchers theorize that something in the roasting process produces vitamins that may protect against UVB damage. —Journal of the National Cancer Institute
Go ahead, daydream
It might just help you multitask. Turns out daydreamers have a better working memory, which helps you retain and recall details— even in the midst of distractions.
—University of WisconsinMadison
Eat fruit, veggies first
Believe it or not, the first food you select from a buffet triggers what you’ll take next—and how much. So say researchers who studied 124 diners. Head to the salad and fruit first, and you’ll be less likely to sabotage your day’s eating. —Plos One
The only way to get a truly accurate blood pressure reading is to cuff both arms. When a person’s systolic pressure varies by 10 or more points between arms, the risk of heart attack or stroke increases 38 percent. Plus, a big difference between arms could be a sign of peripheral artery disease, or clogged arteries. —American Journal of Medicine
Spending this much time doing resistance training could improve your long-term memory by as much as 10 percent. —Acta Psychologica
The percentage increase in the number of men going to plastic surgeons for both surgical and nonsurgical procedures in 2015 thus far. —American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery
Beware the grouch
Did you know that a negative attitude can be passed along from one person to another just like the flu? Apparently, we mimic each other’s nonverbal cues, then internalize them, making them our own. Of course, we can’t always steer clear of a sourpuss, thus the best move: Do not engage. —University of Notre Dame
Beet it to low blood pressure
Drinking just one cup of beet juice every day can lower blood pressure in people with hypertension, according to recent research. Study participants’ systolic blood pressure (the top number, which measures the pressure in your arteries as your heart beats) dropped 8 points. Diastolic BP (the bottom number, which measures pressure between heartbeats) dropped 2 to 5 points. The reason? Beetroot contains high levels of nitrate, which the body converts to nitric oxide, which in turn improves blood flow and relaxes arteries. —Hypertension
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Taylor Richards & Conger: Fall/Winter 2015