Syd Jerome: Fall/Winter 2016 by Wainscot Media

syd jerome

sydjerome fall / winter 2016

f a l l FA S H I O N S

YOUR ULTIMATE STYLE GUIDE

z a n z i b a r g e ta w a y si c i l i a n w in e s p o w e r o f p is c o A r t o f Ch a r c u t e r i e

Zanzibar: Primeval Paradise Sipping Sicilian Cutting-edge charcuterie The power of pisco

stormy weather

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Forget the forecast. In this seasonâ€™s cool new fashions, your sartorial outlook is guaranteed to be perfect.

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NEFF of Chicago

Custom Cabinetry and Design Studio at the Merchandise Mart, Suite 145 Chicago, IL 60654 312 467-9585

www.neff-of-chicago.com

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“At Syd Jerome, our customers care about the small details involved in making fine clothing. At NEFF of Chicago, it is attention to details like stitched leather trim, soft close racks and drawers with tempered glass that creates a Custom Valet Closet System unique to every customer. That’s why I’m delighted to be able to let my customers know about NEFF of Chicago’s Custom Valet Closet System.” Scott Shapiro, Owner - SYD JEROME

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Buy Local BASED IN CHICAGO

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Kevin Love

Active Style. Extraordinary Comfort. Every pair of SAXX Underwear houses our patented BallPark Pouchâ„˘ construction. Designed for contact-free support, this 3D hammock-shaped pouch keeps everything in place, thanks to mesh panels that prevent skin-against-skin friction, and no exposed stitching for chafe-free comfort.

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contents F/W 2016

features fashionably fit | 50 These professionals dress to impress, but when they’re out of the office, they live and play hard.

road warrior | 56 The Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design.

Destination: Zanzibar | 66 Come to this East African island for its pristine beaches—and stay to delight all five senses.

fly-by fashion | 72 Whether traveling for work or pleasure, these family guys are jet-setting in high style.

stormy weather | 78 Forget the forecast. In this season’s cool new fashions, your sartorial outlook is guaranteed to be perfect.

the camera’s eye

Whatever the view, you’ll look great in clothes from Syd Jerome.

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Excellence in Made to Measure Tailoring Su Misura offers the privilege of designing a wardrobe that perfectly reflects your individuality and the tailoring excellence of artisan craftsmanship. It guarantees a choice of over 500 exclusive fabrics, including Trofeo, 15MilMil15, High Performance and Elements Trofeo-Cashmere.

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“Elegance is not to be seen by everyone. Elegance will be recognized only by the people who know what elegance is.” Luciano Barbera

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contents f/w 2016

departments Memo | 16 How Syd Jerome is giving back.

The SYD JEROME Guide | 23 Stylish outerwear… Nashville-style hot chicken in Highland Park…Bill Lavin’s rock ’n’ roll belts…and more.

Grooming | 28 Rotating blades? Forget it. A wet shave— the way your grandfather did it—is a cut above the rest.

music | 30 These singer-songwriters draw you into their realms of heartache and exaltation.

Clothes talk | 32 Sid Shapiro warms to the fashionable possibilities––and requirements––of a cold Chicago winter.

Essentials | 34 Get your game on and stock up on this season’s must-have basics. THE LEADING MAN

michael caine | 42 In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, this cool Cockney is the epitome of smooth.

on the run | 46

For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction.

grape | 88 After a ho-hum era, vintners on historic Sicily are winning new respect.

spirits | 90 It was popular during the Gold Rush, and now pisco is enlivening cocktails across the country.

pursuits | 92 Confederate Motors’ new ’cycle, the G2 P51 Combat Fighter, sounds (and feels) like something airborne.

Room Key | 94 Soak in the hot springs at Costa Rica’s Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort.

the bullpen | 96 Get some insight into the everyday lives of Syd Jerome’s style pros.

On the cover: Collin wears a black and navy plaid trench coat by Brioni, plaid suit by Belvest, blue and white check shirt by Eton, tie by Isaia, umbrella by GustBuster.

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This season’s Corneliani collection transforms the finest fibers into luxe layering pieces.

the art of charcuterie | 84

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memo

syd jerome

Wear your heart on your sleeve

2 North LaSalle Street Chicago, Illinois 60602 (Cross Street: Madison Street) 312.346.0333 www.sydjerome.com

Editor Mark Dowden

links (created other Teresa by Ignite Glass once said, “It’s Studios, see not how much we page 23 for more give, but how much information) at love we put into our store—and giving.” donate the profits Throughout my to Ignition life I have played Community small parts in great Glass, a nonprofit acts of kindness, group. Housed compassion and within the studio, philanthropy. I the organization participated to the provides underbest of my capacity resourced kids in each act, whether from Chicago it involved a friend, with tuition-free a family member instruction in the arts. or a customer, but I’d invariably be sneak peek In addition, we have selected as left with an emptiness that I could beneficiaries two other charities have played a bigger role—and done that are very near and dear to our more. It is in that spirit that I sought hearts: the Gastro-Intestinal Research to find a way to fill that emptiness. Foundation and the Juvenile Diabetes How to do this? By starting a Research Foundation. charitable initiative at Syd Jerome. linked in! While we plan to launch this The idea came to me, like most great p. 23 project in time for the holidays, our ones do, from a simple question: “Do commitment will be ongoing. hand-blown glass cuff links have retail potential?” As my favorite author, Kurt Vonnegut, wrote The short answer: yes. But I knew immediately in God Bless You, Mr. Rosewater, “God damn it, that these links could keep on giving. you’ve got to be kind.” That’s when it hit me—we’d sell the cuff

Store Hours Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday: 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Managing Editor Nicole lupo Associate Editor Darius Amos Art Assistant Yvonne Marki Contributing Editors Michael Ardizzone, virginie boone, Liz Donovan, Timothy kelley, christina poletto, Everett Potter, josh sens Contributing Photographers andrew collings, daniel springston Publishing staff Publisher Shae Marcus

Associate Publisher jodi bruker National Brand Manager Monica Delli Santi Senior Account Executive melissa drozdoff Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim Production/Art Assistant Alanna Giannantonio Accounting agnes alves, megan frank Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President & CEO Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents sHAE MARCUS, Carl Olsen

Sid Shapiro

Scott Shapiro

Vice Presidents Nigel Edelshain, Rita guarna, christine hamel

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Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Syd Jerome, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, syd jerome Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

Correction In the Spring/Summer 2016 issue, Dr. Stafford Henry’s name was incorrect. We regret the error.

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No matter the destination, prepared is always a proper look. A W 16 . E X P L O R E I N S T Y L E .

SWEDISH PREMIUM SHIRTS. FOR EVERY SITUATION.

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BESPOKE JEWELRY

900 N. Michgan Ave. • 4th Level • Chicago 312.751.1986 www.thegoldsmithltd.com

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the

syd jerome guide Norwegian Wool: not your usual outerwear

Glass As Art

A glass studio in Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood, Ignite at first seems unassuming. But look a little closer—through the looking glass, as it were—and you’ll discover there’s more than meets the eye. Not only does it serve as an educational facility for artists, from professional to novice, it’s also an event space. And it’s a solid member of the community—for example, the studio is making hand-blown cuff links for a Syd Jerome event benefiting the GastroIntestinal Research Foundation. Inspired by their son’s passion for glassblowing, Trish and Glen Tullman opened Ignite with a goal in mind: to have a state-of-the-art glass studio functioning as the cornerstone of a thriving glass art community in the city. Stop by and you’ll be amazed at what they’re doing with glass.

Picture this: A commodities trader who works on Wall Street dresses up for high-powered client meetings, but then has to put on a clunky, bulky and unprofessionallooking winter jacket over his perfect suit. So how does he solve that problem? By starting his own winter coat company. That trader, Michael Berkowitz, was determined to combine function and form for winter outerwear that wouldn’t be an embarrassment when your client sees you show up in it. Although the company has grown, they’ve kept their eyes on their mission: to infuse the latest technology into garments that can be worn in real life—not just on a fashion runway. And in terms of function, they’ve got it covered. Norwegian Wool coats are designed to endure sub-zero temperatures and hold up against rain, sleet, snow…and ultra-critical clients.

ignite glass studioS, 401 N. Armour St., Chicago, 312.465.2389; igniteglass.com

Belts with an Attitude

fall/winter 2016

If you were a rock band, which one would you be? With Leather Island belts, no one has to guess. Bill Lavin is the designer of a line of leather belts under the brand name Leather Island that are themed around classic rock albums. Leather Island belts have, in Bill’s words, “a total in-your-face rock ’n’ roll vibe.” Think about that the next time you put on a belt. Choose and wear one that will say (or sing or scream) something about you.

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the syd jerome guide “Slow” Clothes

Dressing Well, Starting from Square

When Robert Jensen was a young boy, he was sketching outfits, such is his passion for dressing well. Fastforward to today, and he’s been an industry figure for the last three decades, notably for his neckwear and pocket squares. While a pocket square may not seem like a major detail, it can have a dramatic effect on your overall look. And you don’t want to underestimate how important it is to look good. Listen to what the wise Mr. Jensen has to say about it: “Dressing well increases a healthy regard for who we are, where we have been, and what we can do. It supports an optimistic outlook and reflects our capacity to achieve.” That’s a man we need to listen to. Ask a Syd Jerome salesman about his pocket squares—and let them help you ignite your passion for dressing well.

Honey’s Is on the Money If you find yourself near Highland Park, and if you eat, make tracks to Honey’s Hot Chicken. Opened in June, they proudly tout their food as bringing “Nashville to the Midwest.” Who can we thank? Jeff Shapiro—yes, that’s Scott’s brother—has teamed with Chef Dean Eliacostas to create this sublime eatery. But don’t take our word for it—consider that they sold 8,000 pieces of chicken in their first two weeks. The made-from-scratch menu is headlined by their fried chicken, made to order with your choice of flavors and spices. Would you like their specialty spicy Nashville hot or buffalo sauce “dusted” with zesty ranch, or Zatar seasonings or traditional? The menu also includes items like salads, hot sandwiches and the largest selection of homemade fruit pies in the area. So listen to your fellow Chicagoans and head for Honey’s, the hottest thing in town.

From Customer To Blogger If you’re familiar with the Syd Jerome website, you may know Marc Kadish—he writes weekly on the Syd Jerome blog at sydjerome.com. So who is he, anyway? Marc has been a Syd Jerome customer for about 20 years, but his passion for fine clothing goes much further back than that. When he was growing up, his mother’s family owned a string of men’s clothing stores in New Jersey, and he has fond memories of the shops as a boy. From about age 14 until he was out of college, Marc worked in his uncle’s store, inspiring his appreciation of fine men’s clothing. Now that Marc has cut down his professional workload as an attorney, he has more time on his hands. He had always talked to Scott Shapiro about working in the store some day, but when offered the opportunity to write the blog, he jumped at the chance. His blog posts cover a range of topics—from what to wear on vacation, to trouser length, to a look at current clothing lines—but they’re always interesting, funny and charming. He also taught law, and through his blogs, he’s teaching us a thing or two about menswear. And his appreciation for Syd Jerome is palpable. Marc tells a story about his friend Randy, who hadn’t been to Syd Jerome for a long time. “He returned after eight years, and as he came into the store, a salesperson said, ‘Hi, Randy.’ They remembered his name after all those years!” Let that be a lesson to you: Don’t be a stranger to Syd Jerome or our website. And be sure to check out Marc’s blogs; you’ll get a chuckle while you’re learning something.

An Earthy Goal While the folks at Gran Sasso have been creating trendy, sleek clothing since 1952, they’re also breaking new ground with green initiatives at their HQ in the Abruzzo region of Italy. Their slogan: “Imagine a better world, cleaner, greener… .” Producing energy with photovoltaic cells, employing air filtration systems, recycling faithfully and using materials with the lowest emissions are some of the ways they’re going green. Oh, and they make beautifully crafted and stylish casualwear too.

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honey’s hot chicken, 1791 St. Johns Ave., Highland Park, 847.432.6300; honeyshotchicken.com

From the land that gave you the Slow Food movement—specifically Italy—comes a company that’s a kindred spirit: Slowear. Started in 1951 (as the pants brand Incotex) by Venetian Carlo Compagno—who handed off that business to sons Roberto and Marzio—they respect “slow” as a way of devoting time to workmanship and quality. Three of Slowear’s brands—Incotex, Zanone and Glanshirt—design for both men and women, and they follow a unique “3F rule”: the best fabrics, fittings and finishings, to create their special version of smart casual. On top of that, Slowear’s brands take pride in making garments that not only look good, but also are durable and reliable. Get on board with the Slowear movement and learn to savor your clothing like you do your penne alla vodka.

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the syd jerome guide Who wears the pants?

Sea to Table

We guess you’d call it the Italian version of sushi, but there’s a restaurant in northeastern Italy where raw fish is all the rage. Scott Shapiro took a meal at L’Approdo in the town of Sandrigo (roughly halfway between Verona and Venice) and witnessed a sight he’ll never forget. “They bring out a tray of langoustines, and the Italians just dive into them, eating claws, heads, whatever, until there’s black stuff dripping down their chins. Then they move on to the raw tartares, the raw calamari. This goes on for hours. And this is even before they serve the cooked fish.” But beyond the spectacle of a raw fish fest, the restaurant is very highly regarded. Review after review has praised L’Approdo: “Absolutely the very best seafood restaurant in the Vicenza area.” So the next time you’re in northeast Italy, mangia! But make sure you wear a bib to protect the great new shirt you bought at Syd Jerome.

The most discerning men, that’s who. The trouser line PT01’s name stands for Pantaloni Torino (Turin Pants), as the company’s headquarters is in fashion-conscious Turin. Its products are known as cult items, with “style, character and personality.” Clearly more than just threads, PT01 pants have hit a chord with a lot of men: You can find PT01 in Italy’s best shops and in more than 400 stores in 39 countries—including, of course, Syd Jerome.

No Parking Necessary What’s the worst thing about city living (and shopping)? PARKING! It’s a problem solved when you shop at Syd Jerome, since we’ve partnered with Luxe Valet (they’re called the “Uber of valet services”). Here’s how simple it is: You download an app and put in the store’s address. They will dispatch a valet when you’re a mile away from the store. When you get there, they park your car for you and you can go anywhere you want, within a mile. So you can shop at Syd Jerome, and Luxe Valet will bring your car to wherever you are in the downtown area (give them 15 minutes notice). Syd Jerome picks up the tab. You pay for the tip. It takes the hassle out of parking. Then the only thing you need to worry about is what you’re going to do with those lime-green socks your mother bought you.

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A Hot Look for Winter

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Whether you’re skiing the Italian Alps or just trying to look good around town, look to Colmar. They specialize in outerwear, which goes especially well when taking to the slopes, but also on a winter walk in Lincoln Park. Although they’re really hot in their native Italy right now, the company has been around since 1923. Located in northern Italy in a town called Monza, the brand changed its collections decades ago when skiing became a popular international sport, by creating outfits for skiers. And while Colmar’s collections are made with skiers in mind, ask a Syd Jerome salesman about them. Because skiing is optional—but looking great isn’t.

Scott’s Lunch Tips Scott Shapiro bemoaned the fact that, not too long ago, there were few places to get lunch in downtown Chicago outside of pizza and fast food. That’s changing, and Scott wants to share his top lunch picks. He favors these places because, well, they’re different from the usual fare and they’ll customize your order. So now that your appetite is whetted, here are some of Scott’s lunch recommendations. • FireFin Poke Shop. They specialize in Hawaiian-style food. Scott recommends the Kekoa “Warrior” Style Bowl, but he substitutes the ono sauce for the spicy honey mayo sauce. Then he adds pickled ginger and sesame seeds for one great lunch. • Freshii. If you don’t know about Freshii, get a clue. Their reason for existing is to make healthy food affordable and convenient. Scott orders the Pangoa Bowl (pictured), but he substitutes quinoa for the brown rice and adds chicken. To take it to the next level, he recommends a side of sriracha for an additional kick. • Thrive 360. Another healthy option, they have wraps, salads and soups. He recommends the kale Caesar salad; he adds chicken. • Potbelly. This is Scott’s go-to because it seems like they’re open all the time. He says the Mushroom Melt Skinny is terrific. Add grilled chicken or turkey, but hold the oil, onion and mayo.

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GROOMING

The Razor’s Edge Rotating blades? Forget it! A wet shave—the way your grandfather did it—is always a cut above the rest.

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Your suit and shoes say you have style, so don’t let a five o’clock shadow detract from your look. How do you fix this hairy situation? Don’t reach for the electric shaver that was gifted to you on Father’s Day. Unless you’ve run out of time in the morning, Norelco isn’t the answer; it won’t give you the close shave your skin deserves. The best way to whack those whiskers is with an old-fashioned wet shave, which is making a comeback among gentlemen keen on making the right sartorial choices. You’ve seen it done in Hollywood (remember Robert De Niro in The Untouchables?), but you can experience a wet shave in the comfort of your own home. All it takes is the right tools and ’tude. Think of shaving as a ritual and a tradition rather than a chore; your face will thank you in the end. prep work To start, apply a hot towel to your face to open pores and zap any bacteria on your skin. Keep it on for about five minutes, then massage a preshaving oil (a pea-sized drop or two is all you need) evenly on the skin. The oil will allow the razor to slide easily across the face, reducing irritation. Dump the canned shave gels and foams. Instead, use a high-quality cream or shaving soap that moisturizes and doesn’t contain too

many chemicals. (If you can’t pronounce the ingredients, skip it.) Lather up and apply it over the oil using a quality brush—think bristles made of badger or horsehair. the shave Now comes the fun part—using a sharp doubleedged safety razor, like the kind that your grandfather might have used. A straight blade will give you the closest shave, but since it’s also known as the “cutthroat,” we recommend leaving that one to the professionals. Shave with the grain first, then pass across the grain if your skin isn’t too sensitive. Going against the grain might seem like a good idea—especially along the neck—but that will increase the likelihood of razor bumps and ingrown hairs. finish line Once you’re stubble-free, rinse with hot water to remove any excess cream and oil. Then splash your face with cold water. This will close the pores and prep your skin for a cool aftershave balm. If you didn’t rush the process and followed the steps carefully, you won’t experience too much of an “aftershave sting.” You only need a small amount to hydrate the skin and prevent irritation. Voilà! Run your hands up and down your face and feel the softness because you’re done and ready to face the world.

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music

lonely together Four of today’s best singer-songwriters draw you into their finely limned realms of heartache and exaltation. By Mark Dowden

Courtney Barnett Australian singer-songwriter and (left-handed) guitarist Courtney Barnett meandered through musical styles before making it on her own: She played second guitar in a garage grunge band in Melbourne; she next played slide, mostly, for a psych-country band, and then graduated to lead guitar on her girlfriend Jen Cloher’s studio album in 2013. That was the year Barnett herself achieved critical notice with her own double EP. Her witty lyrics, deadpan delivery and bitchin’ accent combine in a distinctive, highly likeable act. The album: Sometimes I Sit and Think, and Sometimes I Just Sit Go-to song: “Dead Fox”

Deeper dives: “Avant Gardener” and “Pickles From the Jar”

Ben bridwell

After launching Band of Horses in Seattle, front man Ben Bridwell returned to his native Charleston, S.C., where he lives with his wife and four daughters. “I feel like the best stuff that connects people to Band of Horses are these songs that have these discordant, quirky elements and weird-ass tunings that make no sense to anybody else,” he has said. Affable and self-effacing (he claims he’s a lousy musician), Bridwell writes catchy, often upbeat tunes, many of which are sublimely tinged by themes of loneliness and alienation. The album: Why Are You OK Go-to song: “Casual Party” Deeper dives: “The Funeral,” the band’s best-known song, and “The General Specific”

Sturgill Simpson Kentucky native Sturgill Simpson doesn’t fit neatly into the country music mold. He’s often compared to Waylon Jennings (although in truth he’s more like Merle Haggard), but that comparison misses his strangeness and originality. IndieWire got it right when it described Simpson’s sound as “a mesmerizing and sometimes bewildering mix of traditional country sounds, contemporary philosophy, and psychedelic recording-studio wizardry.” His first major-label release, out this year, positively soars. The album: A Sailor’s Guide to Earth Go-to song: “Brace for Impact (Live a Little)” on which he’s helped by The Dap-Kings Deeper dive: His cover of Nirvana’s “In Bloom”

Laura Mvula Birmingham, England has turned out many fine musical acts—Electric Light Orchestra, Traffic, The Moody Blues and UB40, to name a few—but have you heard Laura Mvula? You should, and you will. She got her start in an a cappella group, a gospel choir and church choirs. As a substitute teacher, she began writing songs on her laptop. She sent out a few demos, and lightning struck. Her 2013 debut album was followed this summer by a new LP that’s soulful and exultant. The album: The Dreaming Room Go-to song: “Phenomenal Woman,” funky and danceable Deeper dives: The ethereal “Who I Am” and “Sing to the Moon”

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Would you sign my cast?

What makes a great après-ski soundtrack? Music that soothes mogul-jangled nerves, lubricates conversation and hints at the romantic potential of the evening (even if it exists only in your head). Whether heard in the hot tub, the lounge of your chalet or a parking lot tailgate situation, these tunes fill the bill. “Step” by Vampire Weekend “Ghost Writer” by Garland Jeffreys “My Friends” by Red Hot Chili Peppers “Weed Party” by Band of Horses “You’re So Good to Me” by M. Ward “The Wheel” by The Grateful Dead (try Dick’s Picks, Volume 20)

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David Bowie

“Mercy” by Eric Bachmann “Bodies” by Blackheart Honeymoon “Starman” by David Bowie “Blue Soul” by Blue Mitchell “The Bucket” by Kings of Leon “Burn One Down” by Ben Harper

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clothes talk

Elements

of men’s style

...in which Sid Shapiro warms to the fashionable possibilities— and requirements—of a cold Chicago winter. I’m interested in going more modern with my suits— what do you suggest? Luxury brands are always on the cutting edge of style, and we carry the latest designs from Italian makers such as Isaia and Canali. Another fashion-forward hidden gem is Belvest, a company that makes its name with highquality canvas-lined suits in the best fabrics from Scabal, Ariston and Loro Piana. And we have suits at a variety of price points. For the most modern look, get fitted by one of our highly skilled tailors—a proper fit is key to looking and feeling great.

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I want to look sharp on the weekends. Any suggestions? Try a pair of five-pocket pants from Mac Jeans and Meyer—they’re a great alternative to dress pants, and they’re good if you’re out

shopping or just relaxing. These pants have trim cuts and stretch material so they feel as comfortable as sweatpants. For a Sunday afternoon look, pair those pants with a sportcoat and hoodie— Paul & Shark has some amazing options. I want my next pair of shoes to be a good investment. What would you recommend? I can’t stress enough the value of monk straps. You can wear them with a suit, sportcoat or jeans. They’re like the utility player on a baseball team—they’re an excellent option in just about any situation and setting. It’s also time to start thinking about boots. Ferragamo, Swims and Donald J Pliner make terrific suede chukkas that are stylish and a great investment, especially in the fall.

elements. Another option for warmth without the bulk is a lightweight puffer jacket, like those from Colmar. Now that I have the perfectly fitting suit and shoes, what do I need to finish off the look? Two things: a vest and pocket square. Many guys are adding a piece to their suit, either throwing on an in-between layer or wearing a vest from Stenströms over their jacket. Try a vest under the suit for a classic look, while a quilted vest by Moncler over the suit will add pop and warmth. And don’t forget the pocket square! Whether you opt for wool, cotton, silk or linen, the pocket square adds flair and personality and shows that a man cares, even about the smallest details.

Speaking about weather, how can men look cool in colder temperatures? A big, bulky jacket isn’t the only garment that will keep you warm. We carry versatile jackets by Canada Goose and Moncler that have a sophisticated look and protect you from the

From top left: Colmar, Belvest, Eton, Moncler, Donald J Pliner, Stenströms.

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essentials

get your game on!

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Stock up on musthave basics for fall and winter.

Wool sweaters by Stenstrรถms, orange puffer vest by Waterville, jeans by Agave Denim, black leather belt by Salvatore Ferragamo and blue loafer by Donald J Pliner.

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essentials

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Sports shirts by Taccaliti, Sand, Robert Graham and Paul & Shark, ties by Zegna.

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essentials

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Sweaters by Fly3, Gran Sasso and Luciano Barbera, sunglasses by Maui Jim.

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ABOUT IGNITE: Ignite Glass is a state-of-the-art glass studio, production facility, and gallery, as well as a unique event space accommodating corporate, social, and non-profit groups of all sizes. We offer a wide range of hands–on glassblowing classes in our welcoming, glass production and education–focused space located in Chicago’s West Loop. For more information on classes, artwork, and events, please email info@igniteglass.com

401 N. ARMOUR STREET CHICAGO, IL 60642 312.465.2389 WWW.IGNITEGLASS.COM

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the leading man

Cool Cockney In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, British actor Michael Caine is the epitome of smooth. By Timothy Kelley

File in 1965 and womanizing Cockney chauffeur Alfie in ’66. In 1969’s The Italian Job, a garage door memorably slides open to reveal superthief Caine in a dove grey, three-button sharkskin suit. And in Get Carter (1971) the title-role gangster sports a single-breasted, two-button, three-piece suit of blue Dormeuil tonik mohair. Fittingly, for years Caine’s personal tailor was the late Doug Hayward (reputedly the model for Alfie’s character), a fellow workingclasser whose unacceptable accent had kept him off Savile Row. Hayward won renown in the Carnaby Street era, shocking the Establishment with the notion that machine-sewn buttonholes might be cricket after all, and he married classic English suit design with an Italian touch. Of course, no mere clotheshorse wins Oscar nominations in each of the five decades starting in the ’60s (a distinction Caine shares only with Jack Nicholson), or holds one’s own (as he did in 1972’s Sleuth) with Olivier. But for half a century we’ve watched what this cool customer wore. And he’s worn very well indeed.

Clockwise from top left: Film icon Michael Caine portrays the title character in 2009’s action-thriller Harry Brown. The Oscar winner strolls with a hand in the pocket of his suit. Looking dapper as a magician in Now You See Me. A Rolex on his wrist, Caine wraps an arm around co-star Giovanna Ralli on the Spanish set of 1968’s Deadfall.

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oody Allen’s no fool. When in 1986’s Hannah and Her Sisters he cast British actor Michael Caine as a lovestruck middle-aged neurotic stumbling into an affair, he was having a bit of fun. Fact is, moviegoers know Sir Michael isn’t the stumbling type (though the role won him an Oscar). He’s a striding definition of suave. Caine “has been personifying British cool since the Swinging Sixties,” says CNN. Indeed, queen and country boast no classier screen hero. But Caine’s class isn’t upper—despite his knighthood, conferred in 2000. He was born Maurice Micklewhite in 1933 a few blocks from the Thames, and his accent remains less Oxbridge than London Bridge. “When I became a success I sort of shoved it down their throat and continued to talk the way I did,” he’s explained. “I wanted to say to young people, ‘You can do it; it doesn’t matter how you speak.’ ” But it does matter how you look. Caine has put his six-foot frame and handsome, heavylidded puss to splendid sartorial use ever since he portrayed a crook-turned-spy in The Ipcress

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on the run

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Fall/Winter 2016:

corneliani

The design house goes retro this season, with a collection sporting sophisticated mid-century details.

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hose who know about fashion know the effect a well-made sportcoat, an expertly tailored suit or, even, the perfect T-shirt can have on its wearer. But every so often a collection comes along that has the power to affect its audience in ways beyond just feeling good. In Corneliani’s latest venture, the clothes deliver a more-than-subtle throwback quality peppered with early- and mid-century accents. The proportions, reflective of the post–World War II 1940s, are evident via distinctly oversize coat shoulders. Lapels are short, but broader, and collars are enlarged. Suits cut to slimming effect succeed at mirroring the sentiment of yesteryear with the use of luxe fabrics and moody, retro styling. Corneliani brings a touch of sport to the collection with casual coat options like nylon parkas and trenches— while they’re more contemporary offerings, their inclusion doesn’t create a disconnect from the general personality of the collection. The Italian brand’s finely designed, classic trousers go retro with a smartlooking, high-waisted fit. Non-tapered legs fall in clean, straight lines with a structured but fashionably fluid-like effect. The sheen of luxe fabrics bring these garments to life, making them ideal for wearing to work, or to an even more important occasion. In the case of the Corneliani man, the clothes make a statement without saying a word. He thrives on living in the moment, but very respectfully, even romantically, acknowledges the not-so-distant past in a way that only these clothes can.

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FOR SYD JEROME

TRUNK SHOW | NOVEMBER 2ND & 3RD

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Fashionably Fit

These professionals dress to impress, but when theyâ€™re out of the office, they retreat to the great outdoors to live and play hard.

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Photography by Andrew Collings

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Sean McClure

Vice President, International Business at Tribeca Flashpoint College I’ve been shopping at Syd Jerome for a little more than two years now, and I think what first enticed me to come in—and what keeps me coming back—is the atmosphere. There’s this feeling you get when you walk into Syd Jerome; it’s very classy and polished, almost like a gentlemen’s club. That vibe exudes from the store’s design to the clothing options, to the employees and even to the other customers. I can always expect the shopping experience to include a group conversation about business, news and what’s been going on in my life since the last visit. Syd is the first place I go for a suit, sportcoat, dress shirt or pants. My favorite brands are Luigi Bianchi Mantova for a suit, and I’m completely hooked on Eton for dress shirts. I have been in sales and consulting roles for the past 11 years within the media industry, and looking polished is a necessity. I’m often taking clients out on the town or attending meetings and conferences. I travel very frequently for work, so it’s important that I have quality clothing that can travel well. What’s great is that I can get all of that at Syd. Willie and the rest of the staff are so accommodating— there have been too many times where I needed something before a business trip and the team came through on it. Once, I was headed to New York last-minute and needed two new shirts tailored before leaving, or I was going to be shirtless for meetings. I was at Syd after store hours on a Friday, and they had the shirts back to me before my flight the following Monday. Travel is also a big part of my personal life. During my time off, I love to unplug from the media world and enjoy the outdoors. I recently spent two weeks exploring New Zealand and Sydney, which were beautiful places full of nature and incredibly friendly people. When home in Chicago, I spend weekends by the lake waterskiing, golfing and playing tennis.

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Michael Anton Founder and CEO at the Trade Exchange Group

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I wear a Syd Jerome suit every day to work. I’m comfortable in them, they always look sharp, and they fit really well. The brands I usually go for are Canali and Zegna. It’s important that my colleagues and investors see me looking professional and somewhat conservative. I respect what they’re doing, and I want them to know that I take what I’m doing seriously. Gary pushes me out of my comfort zone a bit, though; he takes me a little more modern. For example, I recently needed a sharp tie to go with a grey suit, and Gary picked one out that had a blue and yellow-gold pattern—and I got compliments on it. I know I can trust him. I am pretty aggressive with the tailoring services at Syd—that is one of the aspects of the store I like most. They don’t make me feel bad about having clothes fitted and sometimes adjusted multiple times, especially if I go up or down in size. I maintain an active lifestyle. I think that’s really important. I work out most days and enjoy running. Then I can put on Syd Jerome clothes and look great from head to toe.

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Will Poindexter Partner at Bain & Company

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One of the challenges I face when shopping for clothes is that I travel for work quite a bit. So I need something I can wear twice or more in a week that I can make look different with various combinations. Also, I have to pack for different dress codes. I work with financial clients, who are more suit-and-tie, as well as retail clients, who tend to dress a bit more casually. I think it’s important to be respectful of a client’s culture if you want to build a relationship. I work with Gary at Syd Jerome, and he is great at curating a selection before I even get into the store. I love Eton shirts—that’s one of the first things I ever bought at Syd, in addition to a goose-down jacket because I had just moved to Chicago from Atlanta. I still have that jacket. Eton shirts fit well and they’re wrinkle-free, which is important considering how much time my clothes spend in a suitcase. I prefer to get custom stitching on them to make the shirts a little more personal and unique. For suits, I like Zegna, Canali and Isaia. What I like best about Syd is that I never feel like I’m being forcefully sold to. Gary knows what I like and when I come in, the whole team tries to make the most of my time, which I appreciate. I normally will do anything to avoid going into a retailer—Syd is the one exception. When I’m not working, I enjoy traveling for fun and doing activities. I love running, skiing, playing tennis and mountain biking. My next vacation is to Chile to visit Patagonia. I like my time away from home to be activity- and experience-oriented.

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road warrior

The new Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design. It was literally handcrafted by racers to own the road. If you’ve a need for speed, this svelte sports coupe effortlessly scoots its way to a top speed of 192 mph. Comfortably. But more than that, it’s fully equipped with racinginspired controls, and designed to perform exactly as a supercar should.

The AMG GT S boasts a 503-horsepower, 4.0-liter biturbo V8 engine and a seven-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission. Its massive torque reaches its 479 lb-ft peak at just 1,750 rpm and holds it all the way to 4,750 rpm, letting you go from zero to 60 in a scorching 3.7 seconds. “Dial in” the car’s performance character with the twist of a knob on the console. Choose from four preset modes—comfort, sport, sport+ and race—plus an individual mode that you can configure yourself. LED headlamps with stylized “eyebrows” as daytime running lamps, side lights and indicators—as well as three separate high-beam reflectors—give the GT S its distinctive look. Some 260 grill pins, capped in chrome and individually sized and spaced by the car’s designer, add an air of elegance to the exterior.

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The weight distribution of 47 to 53 percent between the front and rear axle, coupled with the car’s low center of gravity, translates to extremely agile handling and high cornering speeds.

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The body of the GT S is almost entirely composed of aluminum (more than 97 percent), and its spaceframe weighs just 514 poundsâ€”a class benchmark. Among the non-aluminum components: a radiator support made of lightweight magnesium. Inside, drivers will find deeply contoured leather seats, a 10-speaker Burmester surround sound system and a pair of high-resolution screens displaying entertainment, navigation, audio and other features. Standard are high-performance tires staggered in both width and diameter (19 inches in the front, 20 in the rear) for maximum power delivery and super-sharp steering response.

Starting Price:

$131,200

A leather-wrapped, multifunction steering wheel offers easy access to the vehicle functions you use most often. Note the racing-inspired side grips.

Fully variable exhaust flaps let you vary the engine sound depending on the preset mode you selectâ€”comfort, sport, sport+ and race.

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The enormous 15.4-inch front discs are grasped by powerful six-piston fixed calipers finished with eyepopping red paint and the AMG logo.

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the camera’s eye

Whatever the view, you’ll look great in clothes from Syd Jerome.

| syd jerome

Photography by Daniel Springston

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This page: navy plaid double-breasted suit by Hickey Freeman, blue and white striped shirt by Eton, blue paisley tie by Silvio Fiorello and navy polka-dot pocket square by Paolo Albizzati. Opposite: grey plaid suit by Pal Zileri, purple and white check shirt by Taccaliti, striped tie by Zegna and pink pocket square by Carrot & Gibbs.

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This page: black windowpane check suit, white shirt and grey tie, all by Canali, and pocket square by Eton. Opposite: purple plaid sportcoat, light blue shirt and striped tie, all by Brioni, blue pants by Zegna and pocket square by Eton.

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This page: charcoal grey plaid suit by Zegna, grey and white check shirt by Brioni, charcoal grey tie by Zegna and pocket square by Eton. Opposite: red and grey sportcoat by Corneliani, grey sweater vest by Gran Sasso, burgundy plaid shirt by Zegna, pocket square by Brioni and pants by Incotex.

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This page: green windowpane sportcoat, yellow cableknit turtleneck and yellow pocket square by Etro and blue pants by Sartore. Opposite: orange and blue check sportcoat by Boglioli, orange sweater by Gran Sasso, pocket square by Brioni and grey pants by Corneliani.

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destination:

zanzibar

Come to this East African island for its pristine beaches—and stay to delight all five senses. By Everett Potter

| Syd jerome

ou’d have to go to the other end of the alphabet—to Atlantis—to find a place name as evocative as Zanzibar. The magical word hints of exotic sights and sounds, evoking the intrepid traders, explorers and adventurers of bygone days. And unlike Atlantis, Zanzibar is perfectly real. Geographically, it’s a coral archipelago of 50-plus islands about 23 miles off the mainland of the East African country of Tanzania. (And just to keep travelers on their toes, the Z-word is also sometimes used for the largest of the islands, 50-mile-long Unguja.) On my visit, I was like most Western tourists: fresh off a two-week safari in the Serengeti and ready for a few beach days before going home. Zanzibar’s fabled beaches were described by 19th-century British explorer Sir Richard Burton a “cocoa-fringed shore of purest white, and the sea blue as a slab of lapis lazuli.” He’d see the same thing today. Unguja is easily reached—it’s just a 20-minute flight from Tanzania’s largest city, Dar es Salaam. The island’s northern and eastern shores, lapping the longest stretch of soft sands, are lined with resorts. The eastern shore is where the

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Rocky points dot Zanzibarâ€™s sandy beaches. The island is an idyllic, exotic destination for travelers yearning for sand, sun and culture.

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luxury set settles in. There’s the Park Hyatt Zanzibar, the luxurious Hideaway of Nungwi Resort & Spa and the Hakuna Majiwe Lodge, which actually takes the thatched roof vernacular architecture to another level with its 20 cabanas. I stayed at the Royal Zanzibar Beach Resort, which could patent its five-star Zanzibar experience: infinity pool, private beach, lush gardens, four-poster beds, teak furniture and multiple restaurants, including cliff-perched Samaki. But don’t be like travelers who, weary from safari and sleeping in tents, simply stay put in one of these resorts, venturing only from room to beach to water to restaurant. On the main island alone, there’s simply too much else to see. That’s where you’ll find the remarkable Stone Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a labyrinth city of alleyways and historic architecture. Everywhere in the alleys of this beautiful, hypnotic and slightly shambolic town I saw evidence of Zanzibar’s checkered past; the place was prominent in the ivory trade and the slave trade. Over time, the islands became a source for some of the finest spices in the world. Your hotel can arrange a guide to steer you through the maze of the city, which is reminiscent of the medina of Marrakech, a jumble of antique and souvenir shops, cafés and remarkable architecture. Keep your eyes open for the famous carved wooden doors, many covered in pointed brass studs—the studs were to keep elephants from casually barging in. Now they look like museum objects. The doors on Baghani Street are particularly stunning. Zanzibar is known as a spice island and indeed, the air in Stone Town is fulsome with the perfume of cloves and nutmeg. The fragrances grew even more intense when we reached the Darajani bazaar, where vendors had piled high the island’s bounty: dodo mangoes and passionfruit, along with grapefruit, jackfruit and baobab seeds. The sea was the star in the market hall, which dates from 1904. Here were the fruits of the Indian Ocean, from parrotfish to octopus and triggerfish. As you wander through Stone Town, you’ll see 19th-century mansions that have been restored and turned into smart cafés, shops and boutique hotels. Of particular note is the House of Wonders, or Beit-alAjaib, which was built as a ceremonial palace in 1883 and is now a museum of local life. (At the entrance, look for two 16th-century Portuguese bronze cannons; in the inner courtyard there’s a mtepe, a traditional Swahili boat.) From the wharves at Stone Town, you can watch the fishing dhows with triangular sails set off, a centuries-old design for traders plying the Arabian Gulf. As for those beaches, most resorts will feature a beach outside your door. But if you want to be more This page, from top: a red colobus monkey, indigenous to Zanzibar but endangered after years of habitat destruction; a child frolicking with a flock of seagulls on a pristine white-sand Zanzibar beach; snorkeling in the crystal-blue waters. Opposite: Michanwi Pingwe beach’s The Rock restaurant at high tide.

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woodbury | Syd jeromemens shop

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This page, from top: A vendor sells fresh produce, handbags and hats outside one of the elaborately carved wooden doors in Stone Town, home to the bustling and aromatic Darajani bazaar. Fishermen show off their catches. Opposite: A local man in indigenous dress gazes out at the vast ocean.

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venturesome, head to Nungwi, Matemwe, Jambiani or Pongwe, which are all amazing. When the heat gets to you, seek out a vendor for a local concoction of sugar cane juice, ginger and lime. On the drive to the beach, keep your eyes peeled for the red colobus monkey, indigenous to Unguja and unfortunately endangered. Its black face with a crown of white hair is unmistakable. Do head to Michanwi Pingwe beach, if for no other reason than to have lunch at The Rock, which, true to its name, sits squarely on a rock just offshore. It looks like Hollywood’s version of a beach shack. If the tide is low, you can walk to it—providing you brought beach shoes to protect your feet from the coral. When the waters return, there is boat service. With seafood freshly caught from the surrounding waters—lobster, octopus, prawns and squid—and the thatched roof offering escape from the midday sun, it’s a brilliant and romantic place to unwind. Diving and snorkeling are fantastic around much of the island, and a bevy of tour operators offers day trips. I happen to like the professionalism of a company called Safari Blue. It gets you to the coral reefs on a classic sailing dhow, with lunch at its restaurant on Kwale Island. The snorkeling was on par with any I’ve done, including in the Red Sea, with anemone gardens and fan corals, wave after wave of angelfish as well as Hawksbill turtles. We snorkeled on two different reefs, spotted dolphins during our sail and arrived back onshore blissful. I also enjoyed a tour of Zanzibar’s spice plantations—such a tour can easily be booked through your hotel. It was a delightful morning on a lush plantation with a little learning on how to grow nutmeg and cardamom and cloves. While dinner at your resort is the default setting on Zanzibar, take one night to go into Stone Town, have a sundowner at The Tea House restaurant at the Emerson Spice hotel and then stroll through the evening market, where stall after stall offers grilled and often spice-laden seafood. There’s not a lot of nightlife in this Muslim city, but there is the rather tired Mercury’s on the waterfront, where you can hear cover versions of songs by Queen’s Freddie Mercury, who was born here. If “We are the Champions” and “Killer Queen” aren’t your thing, catch some traditional Zanzibarian music at the Mtoni Palace Ruins, former home to 19th-century sultans. The classical music of the island is taarab, a mix of music and poetry, and if you’ve got good ears you’ll hear musical strains from India, the Arab world and Africa. It’s a melting pot, and that just may be the essence of the remarkable island called Zanzibar.

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fly-by fashion

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Whether traveling for work or pleasure, these family guys are jet-setting in high style. Photography by Andrew Collings

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Todd Lippman Vice Chairman at CBRE

I represent clients at offices that range from law firms to corporate headquarters to tech companies, so it’s always a challenge to know what to wear. Fortunately, I’ve been shopping at Syd Jerome for at least 10 years, and everyone from Sid to Patrick to Billy is able to help me with anything I need, clothes-wise. Not only do they have unbelievable quality in the items they offer, but they also have the personal attention and exceptional service that I really appreciate. I’m able to leave with a selection of suits that feel great and fit me perfectly, whether I’m wearing them dressed up with a tie or without a tie, or sometimes even without a jacket for less-formal meetings. I always buy Eton shirts and Canali suits. As conservatively as I dress for work, outside of the office I dress very casually. My ideal way to dress at home is in a T-shirt, jeans and flipflops. I really enjoy traveling with my wife and two daughters, especially to beach communities so I can be casual and relax. I love to spend as much time as possible with my family. We just went to Capri for my 50th birthday.

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Edward Schroeder Principal at The Griffing Group

| syd jerome

I initially started shopping at Syd Jerome because I wanted the absolutely perfect suit for my daughter’s wedding. The experience was wonderful. Billy’s approach is very thoughtful and respectful. The whole team functions as a coordinated unit, and they’ve done a great job addressing my needs from the start. That’s why I’ve returned to buy additional suits and other clothing. I’m a certified public accountant, but I also serve as a financial expert in the legal community, so I’m often working with lawyers and their wealthy clients. My appearance is very important to me—there is no “casual day.” I prefer Canali suits, but what I mainly look for is clothing that makes people notice I’m well-dressed and put-together, but isn’t so flashy that someone would notice the suit before they notice me. The Syd Jerome team respects that I’m conservative, but they sprinkle the right mix of contemporary styles and color into my wardrobe so I don’t seem stodgy. I also recently lost weight from cutting sugar out of my diet, so I use the tailoring services extensively. When I’m not working, I spend time with my wife of 32 years and my three older children. We take trips together that usually involve some kind of recreation. Recently, we visited Sun Valley, Idaho, and went mountain biking, but we also enjoy tennis, golf and sailing.

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Jeff Bucaro Director at HFF

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I’ve been shopping at Syd Jerome for 20 years, and I am almost exclusively looking for business attire. I really enjoy suiting up every day in Canali or Zegna and picking the right combination of suit, shirt and tie. I believe dressing well has an effect on how my clients view me, as well as how I feel. What I enjoy about working with Patrick at Syd, though, is that he’s good at keeping me in a conservative, traditional look while teaching me to pair shirts and ties in a way that mixes it up a bit. My shirts are usually just white or blue, but I have various textures and patterns within that palette. I had a conference last winter and Patrick put together a combination for me that I paused at, and he said, “Trust me.” It was a patterned light shirt with a striped tie. I thought it mixed too much, but I took his advice and got compliments from a colleague. It helped make me feel much more confident. When I’m not working, I’m a big beach person. I have two daughters who are 8 and 10. I love taking them out to ride our bikes to the beach, throw a Frisbee around or play volleyball. We went horseback riding recently, and we spend a lot of time at the zoo, at parks and at museums. We like to do as many outdoor activities together as we can find. Two of my hobbies are home renovation and investment real estate. I’m currently doing a full renovation of my own house. It’s a neat experience to give my daughters because we are living next door, so we get to feel the noise and watch the progress.

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Mike McLauchlan Vice President of Government Relations at Ilitch Holdings

| syd jerome

My wife and I live in Michigan, but we love to visit Chicago to take our young daughter to the Lincoln Park Zoo and go shopping around the city. I try to go to Syd Jerome whenever we are in town. It’s a great independently owned business that has personal service that’s unmatched anywhere else. Nothing compares to Syd. Whenever I know I’ll be in Chicago, I email Billy and he’ll have items picked out for me when I arrive. I’m mostly shopping for suits and sportswear—items I can wear to work or for an evening out. I like Canali, Hickey Freeman and Luigi Bianchi Mantova, but I’m not so much brand-loyal as I am drawn to a color or style. I like bright colors, especially in ties. I once bought a bright blue shirt at Syd that I got a lot of compliments on. I’m also a sunglasses snob and try to coordinate sunglasses with what I’m wearing. I have about 100 pairs of sunglasses by Ray-Ban, Oakley, Persol, Dior, Ferragamo and others. I wore glasses when I was younger, and that meant you had one pair of sunglasses that were prescription. Once I got contacts, I started amassing pairs of nice sunglasses—I guess that’s my signature style! The most important thing to me, though, is that I’m appropriately representing the company I work for and the people who own that company. I believe the way you dress is a way to show respect, so if I’m meeting with government officials, I tend to dress up a little more for it. Another meeting might be a little more casual. I try to gauge how the people I’m working with dress so I don’t look too far out of place.

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stormy weather Forget the forecast. In this seasonâ€™s cool new fashions, your sartorial outlook is guaranteed to be perfect.

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Photography by Daniel Springston

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From left: black and navy plaid trench coat by Brioni, plaid suit by Belvest, blue and white check shirt by Eton, tie by Isaia, umbrella by GustBuster; black herringbone coat and blue windowpane suit by Isaia, blue and white check shirt by Zegna and red polka-dot tie and pocket square, both by Isaia.

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This page: grey fur-lined coat by Di Bello, grey turtleneck by Gran Sasso, pants by Zegna, fur-trim hat by Wigens. Opposite from left: camouflage coat by Canada Goose, pants by Meyer, fur-trim hat by Canada Goose; black puffer jacket by Moncler, black cable-knit sweater by Gran Sasso, jeans by MAC Jeans and grey hat and scarf, both by Fly3.

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This page from left: red puffer coat by Save the Duck, shirt by Robert Graham, jeans by MAC Jeans; navy and grey colorblock jacket by Colmar, blue sweater by Agave Denim and jeans by MAC Jeans. Opposite from left: hooded coat, blue sweater and blue plaid shirt, all by Paul & Shark, and jeans by MAC Jeans; blue jacket by Fly3, navy sweater by Fly3, blue print shirt by Robert Graham and jeans by Agave Denim.

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the art of

charcuterie

For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction. By Liz Donovan

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t long last, being a carnivore is “in” again. For years, many of us have yielded the high ground to our vegetarian friends, remarking to one another only sotto voce that they’re missing a lot of good eats. But now the ancient European tradition of charcuterie—finely honed techniques for preparing cooked or processed meats such as sausages and patés—is making a big comeback among discerning chefs right here in the U.S.A. With a respect for nature and an abhorrence of waste, they’re making culinary history. So hold your heads high, meat eaters! And meet three top practitioners of this tasty art.

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Chris Consentino Boccalone and Cockscomb, San Francisco

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This celebrity chef says meat is his muse. Popularly known for his TV appearances—for example, on Food Network’s Iron Chef America and as winner of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters—he has made a name as a leader in charcuterie’s resurgence. As executive chef at Incanto in San Francisco, which closed in 2014, Chris Consentino hosted an annual “head-to-tail” dinner in which he’d make a point of using an entire animal, even serving pork’s blood with chocolate for dessert. This philosophy, he says, was inspired by his friend, French chef Jean-Louis Palladin, who taught him “to be realistic and respectful about the path an animal takes from farm or forest to plate.” At Incanto, Consentino created a house-cured charcuterie plate that included mortadella and fennel salame. When guests asked where they could purchase Incanto’s meats, Consentino and Incanto owner Mark Pastore opened a salumeria (Italian delicatessen) called Boccalone, also in the City by the Bay, in 2007. (The slogan on its T-shirts: “Tasty Salted Pig Parts.”) There and at farmers’ markets, customers can purchase Consentino’s meats, including the bestselling mortadella hot dogs and cured salumis, such as capocollo, a neck meat aged with spices; guanciale, a salt-cured pork cheek used in Carbonara dishes; and even orange and wild fennel salame. (Customers enjoy getting a selection in the store’s popular “meat cone” dish.) Besides Boccalone, Consentino focuses his attention on his newest restaurant venture, Cockscomb, and his blog, OffalGood.com, which highlights his passion for cooking offal, the parts of an animal that are not skeletal muscle. (It literally means “off fall”—the pieces that fall off the animal during butchering.) But don’t expect him to rest on his laurels—this creative chef is constantly reinventing. “The possibility of catching lightning in a bottle, or within a salami casing, is enticing,” he has said. “That’s what will forever thrill us about the art of cured meats.”

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Zach Allen B&B Hospitality, Las Vegas Meat making is part passion and part tradition for Zach Allen. While he was growing up, his Germanheritage family gathered each fall to create a big batch of smoked sausages. His interest in working with cured and smoked meats professionally was piqued on a trip to Italy, where he met prosciutto makers and was inspired to learn charcuterie. At that time, Allen was preparing for the opening of Mario Batali’s Otto in New York City; he was determined to cure all meats—from those served as antipasti to the pepperoni on the pizzas—in-house. To learn the craft, Allen worked with Armandino Batali, Mario’s father, who runs the famed Salumi in Seattle, and took formal training at Iowa State University’s Meat Lab, where he discovered the chemistry and technology behind meat curing and smoking. “You need to know the science,” he explains. “Why you need the salt, the sugar, the nitrate and so on— and you need to be careful using them to make sure you’re safe.” Through Allen, Otto became the first New York City restaurant to have a cured meats plan approved by the city’s Health Department for HACCP (hazard analysis and critical control points), a food-safety system pioneered by NASA. Pig parts some chefs would discard engage Allen’s imagination. The loin, which is lean with a little fat but “not marbled like a shoulder,” he says, can be turned into lonza. “We season with salt and a little sugar and let the sweetness of the meat sing,” he says. Meanwhile, he handles the fattier shoulder by rubbing it first with salt and sugar, then rolling it in ground black pepper, fennel and cayenne to make coppa. Ankles, which contain tough meat, need a little extra work to become a succulent full-flavored cotechino. “We’ll season it with a lot of fall spices— black pepper, cinnamon, cayenne and clove—poach it really slowly in Prosecco for two to three hours,” he says. “Add all the skin and fat and it becomes tender.” As for overall guidance, “it’s important to respect and look at the animal,” Allen says. “Take what the pig gives you and make it from there.” He oversees 10 restaurants with B&B Hospitality, and has helped Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich open 17 properties in the United States and abroad. He brings in thousands of pounds of pork from Heritage Farms USA, which provides the restaurants with pigs bred and raised exclusively for them. “If you’re going to eat meat, this is the best way,” Allen says. “You’re using the animal to its fullest. You’re not wasting anything.”

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Jamie Bissonnette Coppa, Boston; Toro, New York, Boston and Bangkok; Little Donkey, Cambridge, Mass.

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This meat genius actually spent many years as a vegetarian and vegan. Eventually, his culinary ambitions prompted a diet change. Jamie Bissonnette recalls that a one-time boss “said I was a good cook, but I’d never be a great cook unless I started eating the food.” In 2011, Bissonnette won $10,000 on the Food Network show Chopped; in 2014, he was awarded the James Beard Foundation Award for the Best Chef Northeast and also published The New Charcuterie Cookbook: Exceptional Cured Meats to Make and Serve at Home. Today he owns five restaurants, having added Cambridge’s Little Donkey just this summer. Writes celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern of Bissonnette: “He can take ordinary food, even odd bits, fifth-quarter stuff (the pluck, the viscera, ‘the nasty’ to some) and make angels weep.” The rabbit mortadella in the book earned Zimmern’s praise; ambitious home chefs can also find recipes for Bissonnette’s duck prosciutto and Vietnamese bologna, or Cha Lua. For those hoping to get a taste of the chef’s own creations, an array of salumis, patés and sausages is available at Coppa. Toro, a Barcelona-style eatery that focuses on seafood, finds room on its menu for Bissonnette’s carnivorous creations in tapas dishes, such as smoked beef heart and seared foie gras. Those vegan days are long ago, but this chef’s respect for animals endures. He began experimenting with offal after seeing parts of the animal go to waste once the popular cuts were butchered off. “When I made the change from vegetarian to omnivore, I wanted as little waste as possible,” he says. He also insists on knowing where his meat comes from and only sourcing ingredients from sustainable providers, advising people not to cook with meat they don’t know anything about. “I only use people I can get to know and speak with about the pigs and how they were raised,” he says. For would-be charcuterie enthusiasts, Bissonnette has simple advice: “It’s not something you can learn on a stage. It’s something one has to be really dedicated to. But it’s delicious.”

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grape

sipping sicilian

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n the map, the island of Sicily looks as if it’s about to be drop-kicked by the Italian boot. Indeed, its abundant wines have long been kicked around—known more for quantity than for quality, with flabby reds, listless whites and assorted sweet wines like Marsala and Moscato di Pantelleria that were good for cooking but not much else. Till recently, says Brian Larky, owner of wine importer Dalla Terra Winery Direct in Napa, Calif., “when people thought of Sicily, they thought of mafia and Marsala. But it’s so much more.” In fact, the island is home to more than 70 native grape varietals, with winemaking roots that run millennia deep. And vintners today are drawing on that tradition, leaning on ancient grapes such as Grillo and Catarratto with a distinctive sense of place. “Sicily is a place of great diversity, in its climate, its soils and, of course, its grapes,” says Alberto Tasca d’Almerita. “It’s also full of history and culture you can see and touch and taste.”

After a ho-hum era, vintners on this historic wine-producing island are winning new respect. By Josh Sens

At 44, Tasca d’Almerita is a vintner of noble breeding—a count, no less, who is married to a princess (literally) and belongs to “the first family of Sicilian wine.” His bloodlines in the industry trace to the 1830s, when forebears planted grapes in the center of the island. With father Lucio and brother Giuseppe, he oversees five of Sicily’s most respected wineries: Tenuta Regaleali, Capofaro, Tascante, Whitaker and Sallier de la Tour. For the family business, the mid- to late-1900s brought robust growth, during which Lucio emerged as a pioneer, implementing a range of modern farming practices. He was the first Sicilian vintner to use a tractor and to dig a reservoir to catch rainwater. But he also held firm to traditions, championing indigenous varietals that were becoming vanishingly rare. Other wineries followed suit, among them Benanti, Ceuso, COS and Cusumano. To sample the finest Sicilian wines today is to appreciate their wildly diverse profiles, by turns lean and feisty, lush

and complex. They’re reflective of a Sicily that contains multitudes, its topography ranging from stark volcanic peaks to sun-kissed inland valleys to low-lying flatlands cooled by coastal fog. With five estates scattered across Sicily, the Tasca d’Almerita family makes wines in all of those settings, and their portfolio captures that wide-ranging terroir. It’s evident in stunning releases like Tenuta Regaleali’s 2014 Lamuri, a fruit-forward wine made from Nero d’Avola grapes grown in a rolling inland region, and Capofaro’s 2013 Didyme Malvasia, a bright white derived from fruit in vineyards stitched along Mt. Etna’s volcanic slopes. As the managing director of the family business, Alberto is the widely recognized public face of all these labels. He and his wife, Francesca Borghese, show up on glossy Italian society pages. But his family’s wines, he says, are the true stars. “People are getting more curious about indigenous grape varietals everywhere,” he says. “In that regard, Sicily is the biggest treasure in the world.”

Clockwise from top left: Vintner Arianna Occhipinti’s SP68, her blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato; the vineyard at the Tasca d’Almerita family’s Capofaro Malvasia & Resort on the isle of Salina, north of Sicily; majestic Mt. Etna rises above a Silican town; the dapper Alberto Tasca d’Almerita; the Grillo grape, a variety favored for Marsala winemaking; harvesting the Nero d’Avola grape varietal at the Feudo Montoni estate; a bottle of Tenuta Rapitala Grillo 2013; a lush bunch of Nerello Mascalese grapes, named for the Mascali area of Catania, where it’s believed they have originated.

Tasting notes Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri Nero d’Avola, 2014 Retail price: $20 Lush aromas of black cherry, vanilla and tobacco give way to velvety tannins on the palate in this nuanced, foodfriendly wine. Tenuta Regaleali Rosso del Conte 2010 Retail price: $70 A rich ruby color is complemented by deep flavors of cherry and stone fruit that resolve in a long, smooth finish. Tascante Buonora 2014 Retail price: $20 Aged in stainless steel, this wine has hints of grapefruit and understated minerality as well as a lean, clean finish; these qualities help make it a wonderfully refreshing warmweather white.

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spirits

Peruvian pleaser

It was popular during the Gold Rush, and now pisco is enlivening cocktails across the country. By Virginie Boone

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ne of the hottest spirits in the U.S. right now is pisco, a South American brandy distilled from wine. Lots of spirits tied to Europe date back hundreds of years, but pisco traces its roots to the 1500s, when Spanish missionaries in Peru and Chile began planting grapes to make wine. The grapes were varieties like Muscat, Torontel and Pedro Jimenez, and the vines grown at fairly high elevation. As the French did with Cognac, South Americans figured out how to make pisco from these crops, fortifying the wine by distilling it in copper pot stills. For pisco, grapes are harvested February through April, the Southern Hemisphere’s autumn harvest time, and the seeds and stems removed. The remaining fruit is crushed into juice and fermented using native yeast. Pisco then rests for a minimum of 90 days in “neutral” vessels, with oak never in

the picture. It’s made to be enjoyed right away, with nothing added— no water, no sugar, no caramel. Named for a port in Peru, pisco also has a long legacy in California, where going back to the Gold Rush days it was a staple on San Francisco’s wild Barbary Coast. There the Pisco Punch, a loose and powerful commingling of pisco, pineapple, lime juice, sugar and water, was born in the late 1800s. Mark Twain, Rudyard Kipling and other literary figures enjoyed Pisco Punch when it was all the rage in San Francisco in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And, as New Yorker founding editor Harold Ross recalled, it “[tasted] like lemonade but had a kick like vodka, or worse.” Today, a pisco producer called Campo de Encanto (which translates to Field of Enchantment) uses grapes from Peru’s Ica Valley. Developed by San Francisco bartender

Duggan McDonnell and sommelier Walter Moore in collaboration with Peruvian distiller Carlos Romero, its small-batch product is blended from five types of old-vine grapes, creating a smooth combination of peaches, almonds and mint. The true test of pisco? Swirl it before you sip, says McDonnell. And make sure the bubbles dissipate quickly. If they don’t, it means the spirit has been diluted, and thus isn’t real pisco. Enjoy pisco neat, with a twist of lime, or in cocktails such as the Pisco Sour, a combination of the liquor with lime juice, sugar syrup and a shaken egg white. This is a drink that’s refreshing and proteinrich, smooth and sweet. Or consider Encanto’s Pisco Punch mixer, the Bank Exchange Pineapple Cordial, named for the saloon on San Francisco’s Montgomery Street that famously served pisco cocktails in the 19th century.

Clockwise from top left: The Paracas National Reserve, a popular tourist attraction in Peru, is located in Ica, one of the country’s five official D.O. (Denomination of Origin) departments where pisco can be produced. The premium brand BarSol uses centuries-old copper pot stills to distill its piscos. Combine the lively spirit with lime juice, sugar syrup and an egg white to create the classic Pisco Sour. Enjoy dinner and drinks at Illariy, one of the most popular restaurants in Cusco. In Peru, only eight grape varietals can be used to make the fermented spirit. BarSol specializes in piscos produced with Quebranta, Italia and Torontel grapes. Campo de Encanto was the brainchild of a San Francisco bartender and sommelier.

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pursuits

Rebel Without A Pause Confederate Motors’ relentless new ’cycle, the G2 P51 Combat Fighter, sounds like something airborne. Kinda feels that way too. By Timothy Kelley

otorcycles aren’t for blending in, playing along or even getting ahead. They’re about freedom—with a dash of attitude. Why not ride one that’s built in that spirit? The folks at Confederate Motors in Alabama obviously aren’t into politically correct nomenclature. But while other motorbike makers come and go, this scrappy little company has reached the quarter-century mark—that’s six times as long as the real Confederacy endured. It has reportedly sold vehicles to the likes of Brad Pitt, Nicolas Cage and Bruce Springsteen. And its new G2 P51 Combat Fighter hints thunderously at why. Here are 200 horses of pure Johnny-Reb menace, and when they go roaring by they can make a bobblehead turn. But we’re not talking just noise and shine. This is an admirably designed and constructed machine. A notable advance from the P120 Fighter released by Confederate in 2009 (it’s lighter, with more power), the P51 features a monocoque structure that elegantly binds engine, fuel tank and transmission in a single unit built of 6061-T6 aerospacegrade billet aluminum. Speaking of aerospace, if the phrase “Combat Fighter” reminds you of the wild blue yonder, that’s OK. Officially the P-51 moniker reflects the 51-millimeter intake ports installed by

head designer Jon Kaase. But as company founder/CEO Matt Chambers notes, it also tips its hat to an airborne namesake: North American Aviation’s famous World War II workhorse, the P-51 Mustang. This groundbound Combat Fighter features new cylinder heads and an ingenious new air-induction system. Engine geeks will appreciate its 132-cubic-inch S&S X-Wedge air/oil-cooled overhead camshaft V-twin motor with two valves per cylinder. (Last time we checked, S&S was in that northern state known as Wisconsin, but why quibble?) The bike boasts a five-speed stacked gearbox with Andrews gears and can reach speeds above 176 mph—though you might not wish to aim for that mark this side of the Bonneville Salt Flats. Its 180 ft.-lbs. of torque constitute, as the manufacturer modestly confesses, “the greatest amount of torque as a percentage of weight ever achieved in all of motordom.” Only 61 will be produced, and each will be engraved with a number signifying the order in which it was purchased. Don’t miss your moment.

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Form hitches a ride with function in the ruggedly eye-pleasing Confederate G2 P51 Combat Fighter, starting at $125,000. Company founder/CEO Matt Chambers has described this machine’s design philosophy in terms that can’t be fully quoted here, but that include the phrases “it’s fighting against convention” and “flicks the finger at the established order.”

The rowdy rebel cuts a slender figure in your rearview mirror— but watch out anyway.

The seat, 28.5 inches high, is said to be comfier than those of earlier Confederate muscle bikes.

The Pirelli Diablo Rosso II rear tire accounts for nearly all of the vehicle’s width.

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room key

steamy delight

Soak your weary self in the thermal hot springs at Costa Rica’s Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort. By Liz Donovan

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he “law of the land” in Costa Rica is “Pura vida!”—you’re likely to be greeted with the expression shortly after arriving in this cheerful Central American country. It directly translates to “pure life,” and after your stay here, you’ll know why. Flanked by the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea, Costa Rica makes up for its size (19,653 square miles; smaller than Lake Michigan) with a wealth of biodiversity and ecotourism—it hosts nearly 6 percent of the world’s species and protects 25 percent of its land within national parks and wildlife reserves ranging from tropical dry forests and cloud forests to wetlands and rainforests. Conveniently situated at the edge of one of these magnificent rainforests, nestled under the grand Arenal volcano, is the Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort in La Fortuna. This five-star luxury getaway features three natural hot springs, which are 97 percent rain-based and 3 percent magma-based. After a rainfall, the water seeps through fissures down to the Earth’s core, where it’s heated by volcanic magma. Once heated, the now mineral-rich water resurfaces and is funneled at a temperature of 120°F into the resort’s 20 magnificent pools, complete with waterfalls and flora. Simply soaking in these luscious

ambient pools is pampering enough, but if you desire, you can turn it up a notch by retreating to a private open-air bungalow surrounded by lush gardens and equipped with a thermal spring tub. There, expert masseuses will rub you from head to toe, wrapping your feet in a warm volcanic mud that will both soften and detoxify. Couples may opt for a romantic side by side full-body massage that ends with a love poem read in Maléku, the native language of Costa Rica, and topped off with a milk bath and a bottle of champagne. Spending the day idling in a state of blissed-out nirvana can work up one’s appetite; fortunately, a cultural culinary experience beckons at the resort’s multiple restaurants. Start your morning with a colorful spread of local tropical fruits, like fresh papaya, mango and guava, or perhaps sample the traditional Costa Rican dish of sweet plantains at Los Tucanes. Of course, the Costa Rican coffee—strong and dark without a hint of bitterness—is not to be missed. Light bites are available for lunch, and both casual and formal dinner options are offered at Ave de Paraiso and Los Tucanes, respectively. While enjoying the natural splendors of the Earth here, it may heighten your

experience to know that this resort is proud to be both environmentally and socially responsible. It holds a Sustainable Tourism Certificate, is certified by the government as a carbon-neutral facility and is active in supporting the local community through education and outreach. When not indulging in the thermal springs, set out to explore the area and its stunning natural attractions. The majestic Arenal volcano rises more than 5,400 feet and at one time was Costa Rica’s most active volcano. But fear not—it’s now in a resting phase, with no major eruptions since 2010. Craving adventure? Explore the lush rainforest surrounding the volcano with a guided hike and you may be rewarded with a glimpse of one of the thousands of species that call it home—our group spotted a toucan perched on a nearby tree during a recent visit. Other activities include zip-lining, whitewater rafting, bird-watching tours across some of the Arenal area’s “hanging bridges” and a Costa Rican–style safari river float, where you’ll discover wildlife such as monkeys, iguanas, sloths and crocodiles. Truly, whether you’re tired and weary or seeking an adrenaline rush, you’ll surely discover something here that by the end of your stay will have you exclaiming, “Pura vida!”

Clockwise from top: one of Tabacón’s 20 pools, warmed by natural hot springs; the luxe honeymoon suite, which features a private Jacuzzi; some of the resort’s scenic waterfalls; a massage is one of the offerings at the top-rated spa; a bridge leads past a bungalow and through the lush gardens; the Arenal volcano rises beyond one of the resort’s thermal pools.

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the bullpen

advice from the

Style Pros

The staff at Syd Jerome is dedicated, expert and, not incidentally, a hell-of-anice-group of guys who make shopping for menswear fun. To help you get to know the staff better, we asked them a few questions about their everyday lives. Check out their answers, then stop by the store to chat with them in person. The guys—along with Sid and Scott Shapiro, of course—are ready to serve you.

Mario Crivello

Billy Cavada

Gary Palay

Willie Juarez

Patrick Katen

What do you do on your day off? I teach Sunday School in church, and have breakfast, lunch and dinner with my family. What’s the best book you’ve ever read? The Bible. If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to—and why? 33 A.D., when Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? Yes, I do—it’s an Apple Watch. What do you do to stay fit? I have started playing soccer with my boy and eating healthier. Favorite food? The spicy chicken from the Silk Road Chinese restaurant. What do you collect? Starbucks City coffee mugs and Michael Jordan sport cards. What’s your favorite place in the world? I would have to say home! Can’t live without ____. My wife. What’s the BEST advice you’ve ever been given? There is never a reason to be unkind.

What do you do on your day off? I enjoy working out. What’s the best book you’ve ever read? War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy. If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to—and why? Any year my grandparents were alive in Sicily, so I could visit them. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? Yes. I wear Shinola. What do you do to stay fit? Work out and eat wrong! Favorite food? Pizza. What’s your favorite place in the world? Lambeau Field. Can’t live without ____. Eton shirts and brown shoes. What’s the BEST advice you’ve ever been given? Always say “please” and “thank you.”

What do you do on your day off? Spend as much time with my wife and kids and try to squeak in some golf. What’s the best book you’ve ever read? A book of short stories by Ray Bradbury. If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to—and why? It’s a tie! Definitely 1971. I don’t recall having any really good early baby pictures of myself, so I would like a closer look. And 1985, because it was just totally awesome! What do you do to stay fit? Eat healthy and drink wine. Favorite food? At the moment, I’d say sushi and tacos. What do you collect? Pictures, video and memories of my kids growing up. What’s your favorite place in the world? I’ve been to some places, but I’m by no means a world traveler. Perhaps Mexico, because I’ve been there more than any other place. Can’t live without ____. My wife, my kids and my mother-in-law. What’s the BEST advice you’ve ever been given? My parents told me to stay away from drugs—and I did.

What do you do on your day off? I golf when I can. Or, I see a movie with my wife. Both activities allow for some much-needed relaxation. What’s the best book you’ve ever read? It’s hard to choose just one, but I enjoy a good biography. Do you wear a watch? If so, what brand(s)? Yes, an old-school Timex. Favorite food? A nice steak. What do you collect? Old electronics. My collection includes a 30-year-old reelto-reel tape player and a Crosley radio from the 1950s that still works! What’s your favorite place in the world? I like Scotland for golf, and Paris, because it’s Paris! What’s the BEST advice you’ve ever been given? It costs nothing more to be nice! Also, always try to maintain a positive outlook.

What do you do on your day off? I like to work out. What’s the best book you’ve ever read? The Bible. If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to—and why? The best year of my life—1985. What do you do to stay fit? Running and cycling are my favorites. Favorite food? I love seafood. What do you collect? Coins. What’s your favorite place in the world? Monterrico in Guatemala. Can’t live without ____. Going away on vacation. What’s the BEST advice you’ve ever been given? Always be humble, and go away on vacation!

What do you do on your day off? Have brunch and rest. What’s the best book you’ve ever read? The Pride and the Passion. If you had a time machine, what year would you travel to—and why? To 1985. It was a good year for me! What do you do to stay fit? I walk 12,000 steps a day, six days a week at the store— I’m too tired to exercise. Favorite food? Pasta What do you collect? Martini shakers. What’s your favorite place in the world? Chicago, of course! Can’t live without ____. My family. What’s the BEST advice you’ve ever been given? To be yourself.

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Juan Farfan

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Published on Oct 10, 2016

Syd Jerome: Fall/Winter 2016

Published on Oct 10, 2016

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