FALL / WINTER 2018
FALL FASHIONS
MADE-TO-MEASURE
syd SYD JEROME
THE DESIGN PORTFOLIO FROM SYD JEROME MENSWEAR
SKIING IN SWITZERLAND
PAMPERED PUPS
THE ASTON MARTIN DB11
MICHAEL FASSBENDER
years of excellence
F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 18
+ remembering Sid
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CONTENTS F/W 2018
It’s what’s on top
FEATURES
Sportcoats. Jackets. Puffers. Fall in love with the season’s hottest styles.
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sid shapiro: the making of a merchant | 18 His journey could happen only in America, only in Chicago.
syd stories | 22
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Sid Shapiro’s customers saw him as more of a friend than a salesman. These longtime clients’ exceptional shopping experiences at Syd Jerome speak to his impeccable taste and gracious persona.
beauty is a beast | 40 Engineers loaded the Aston Martin DB11 with a monstrous V8 engine that takes you from 0–60 in four seconds—because you can’t get by on good looks alone.
broad strokes | 42 There’s nothing abstract about it. There’s an art to choosing the best tailored clothing.
gone to the dogs | 50 ON THE COVER:
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Sportcoat and shirt by Isaia, pants by Zanella, tie by Isaia, pocket square by Paolo Albizzati.
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Can’t imagine vacationing without your pet? Don’t worry—some luxury hotels go out of their way to keep Fido’s tail wagging.
color theory | 56 Formality needn’t be forbidding—especially not in the work of award-winning Los Angeles interior designer Mary McDonald. Her spaces showcase bold hues—as seen in Mary McDonald: The Allure of Design.
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CONTENTS f/w 2018
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DEPARTMENTS memo | 6
The perfect fit | 62
room key | 92
Syd Jerome is renewed for fall.
Look beyond off-the-rack and step into the world where you get precisely what you want.
Crave a Caribbean getaway that isn’t cliché? Try beautiful Scrub Island in the B.V.I., which has welcomed visitors just since 2010.
the syd jerome guide | 11 A look back at 60 years of fashion…Maxwell Street roots...a new Syd Jerome... and more.
music | 14 From the “moonshine roots music” of Valerie June to the cosmic Americana of Sun Seeker, these contemporary artists are guaranteed to put you in good headspace.
essentials | 28 Stay warm and look good in the season’s must-haves. THE LEADING MAN
the sporting life | 70 Verbier is the resort for you if you’re a royal—or want to ski and party like one.
fitness | 74 In truth, yoga has never been just for women. Now a new, tougher type makes that super-clear.
PURSUITS | 78 With confidence built into its name, Surefly is the ’copter that doubles as a drone.
style pros | 94
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The staff at Syd Jerome is dedicated, expert and, not incidentally, a hellof-a-nice group of guys who make shopping for menswear fun.
grooming | 96 Charcoal is gritty, grimy and the hottest skin-care trend for men.
gourmet | 82
michael fassbender | 34
Open up and explore all the flavors these beautifully briny bivalves have to offer.
Even as a bad guy, the German actor has the goods.
spirits | 86
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Four who excel in the making of liquor reveal where they go for a well-made drink.
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MEMO
SYD JEROME 2 NORTH LASALLE STREET CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 60602 (CROSS STREET: MADISON STREET) 312.346.0333 WWW.SYDJEROME.COM STORE HOURS MONDAY, TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY & FRIDAY: 8:30 A.M. TO 6 P.M. THURSDAY: 8:30 A.M. TO 7:30 P.M. SATURDAY: 8:30 A.M. TO 5:30 P.M. Editor RITA GUARNA creative Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO Associate Editors DARIUS AMOS, JUAN FARFAN
A Lasting Legacy O
n Monday, Aug. 20, 2018, the men’s fashion industry lost a true icon. Sidney Shapiro, my father, my friend and my mentor passed away. The outpouring of love and support has been overwhelming. On Wednesday, Aug. 22, 2018, Sidney was laid to rest. I have been requested to share my thoughts from the memorial service. How do you sum up a man’s 86-year saga? There are many opinions on what is the true measure of a man, but to describe my father we need to go back to the late 1600s when Robert South, an English clergyman and poet said, “If there be any truer measure of a man by what he does, it must be by what he gives.” It’s easy to talk about the tangibles: a successful and enduring business, 65 years of marriage, paying to educate three sons. But what he gave us is his true legacy: customers, whom he regarded and loved as family; parental advice along
with appropriate fashion consultation; friends and neighbors, whom he banded together to make his community a better and safer place to live. And he gave so much to his loyal employees, whose combined years of dedicated service is close to 100 years. He treated his staff like his children, consistently dishing out heaping helpings of tough love, constantly telling them to straighten the store and reminding them that they can be replaced (but not the customer). He did all of that while instilling in them salesmanship and respect for themselves and the product they represent. From all over the world, people in the industry reached out to show their respect to the legend they refer to as the Godfather. However, knowing my father, if people truly want to honor his memory, they should come to the store and buy something at full retail. We miss you.
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SCOTT SHAPIRO
lifestyle editor HALEY LONGMAN assistant Art director YVONNE MARKI Contributing Editors KAREN ALBERG, LEE LUSARDI CONNOR, TIMOTHY KELLEY, EVERETT POTTER, DONNA ROLANDO, OSH SENS Contributing Photographers ANDREW COLLINGS, DANIEL SPRINGSTON PUBLISHING STAFF Group Publisher SHAE MARCUS director of sales MONICA DELLI SANTI Senior Account Executives KAREN AZZARELLO, CHRISTINA FERRERO Director of Production and Circulation CHRISTINE HAMEL Advertising Services director JACQUELYNN FISCHER graphic designer VIOLETA MULAJ Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK PUBLISHED BY Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL
SYD JEROME magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with SYD JEROME. Copyright © 2018 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Syd Jerome, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, SYD JEROME Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.
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LEATHER | SHEARLING | SUEDE | GOOSE DOWN | FUR
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THE
SYD JEROME GUIDE FASHION FLASHBACK
Syd Jerome always has been ahead of the men’s fashion curb. Since opening in 1958, the store has been the destination for timeless garments and what’s-hot-now looks. (And, boy, have those changed!) Here’s a look back at the past 60 years of men’s styles. 1968: Fashion is marked by individualism. Guys mix and match styles and materials. The tailored suit gives way to bold and daring looks, bright colors and patterns. In many cases, the looser fit the better. Pants with wider legs are preferred over tapered trousers.
1958: Though trendier clothing (colorful blazers and sweaters) starts to emerge, conservative styles prevail when Syd Jerome opens its doors. Men’s suits are black, navy or gray flannel, usually with a long and slim lapel on the jacket—and a double-peak handkerchief in the breast pocket—and cuffed trousers. Businessmen often wear a fedora to the office.
1998: Relaxed office dress codes give birth to the business-casual look, where sportcoats and trousers become acceptable alternatives to the Gordon Gekko suit of a decade ago. After years of decreased demand, three-button suit jackets begin a comeback, while monochromatic shirt-andtie combinations keep men’s styling subtle.
2018: High-tech, breathable and stretch fabrics bring unmatched comfort to tailored clothing. Bespoke and made-tomeasure are at an all-time high in popularity as luxury garments are available at many price points. Refined and polished looks now include leather sneakers and premium denim.
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1988: Activewear and sports apparel rise in popularity, but films like Wall Street elevate the ’80s power suit (think boxy with big shoulder pads) to another sartorial level. Giorgio Armani led the way with his soft-tailored pieces—he designed the sharp suits worn by the all-star cast in The Untouchables.
FALL/WINTER 2018
2008: High-end tailoring services are in demand as attention to detail is at the forefront. “Made in Italy” is the most sought after label, a nod to designers such as Brioni, Canali and Ferragamo.
1978: Men’s closets are stocked with tweed jackets, suits and coats, each of them worn with a scarf. Garments, while still wide, begin to narrow: Trousers were less flared, while jacket lapels, ties and shirt collars slimmed.
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THE SYD JEROME GUIDE WAY TO GO!
Chicagoans know where to go for great men’s clothing, and finding Syd Jerome in the big city got a lot easier in 2008 (although the high-end retailer was already on the industry’s map). To help celebrate the store’s 50th anniversary, the City of Chicago, on July 9, 2008, renamed a portion of North LaSalle Street—where leading financial institutions, law firms and corporations are headquartered—”Syd Jerome Way.” A proclamation noted that the “House of the Power Suits” is “one of the top Men’s Specialty Stores in the country and has gained national attention with cliental across the globe.” Sid Shapiro said at the time that the dedication and proclamation from the mayor and city council was one of the proudest moments of his career.
BORN ON MAXWELL STREET
At Syd Jerome, we pride ourselves on customer service and satisfaction. Our staff not only wants you to look great, it’ll do anything to make you feel great too—without the hassling or hustling. That philosophy dates back to the ’40s, when fashion first caught the eye of a young Sid Shapiro. It started on historic Maxwell Street—Chicago’s defunct open-air market that was filled with bargains, energy and chaos. As the Chicago Tribune once described: “Hawkers, spielers, pitchmen and hucksters shout their wares while radios boom and customers haggle in a dozen languages.” Before Sid became a stock boy at Smoky Joe’s, he was a Maxwell Street “puller”—one of the men (or kid, in his case) who used any sales tactic necessary to lure customers into a store or stall. This hard work ethic defined the immigrant experience in Chicago during the 19th and early 20th centuries, and it’s how Sid carried himself when he joined Smoky Joe’s and when he eventually teamed with Jerome Frishman to found Syd Jerome in 1958. While Maxwell Street is long gone, the memories and impact it had on our business will last forever.
HOME, SWEET HOME
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AN ITALIAN RENAISSANCE
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The Syd Jerome man always had at his fingertips the best selection of suits, sweaters and shirts from the leading fashion houses around the world. But unlike today’s store, where we offer dozens of Italian collections, our old Dearborn shop was predominantly stocked with the very best from Paris. French designers from Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent to Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gaultier led the way with their haute couture, and Syd Jerome was the spot to find these important and influential brands. But as fine Italian designers expanded their ready-to-wear lines, the popularity of clothing from Florence, Milan and Naples grew exponentially—and so did demand in the U.S. As the 1970s and ’80s ushered in the era of Giorgio Armani, Syd Jerome transitioned from an A to Z list filled with French designers to a who’s who of Italy’s best. While the names might have changed, Syd Jerome remains Chicago’s destination for fine menswear.
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Customers always felt at home in each of Syd Jerome’s locations throughout the years, especially at the current North LaSalle Street store, where assorted clothing racks and stuffed shelves create a throwback vibe. It’s the feeling Sid Shapiro had in mind when he opened his first shop in 1958, and we know Chicagoans will have the same impression when we move next year to a bigger spot at the corner of North Clark and Madison. Why the move? First, Syd Jerome continues to grow. We’re always adding new collections from the brands you love, and each season we find new designers from around the world to share with you. Second, we want to give our customers an even better shopping experience. We’ve teamed with Gensler, a Chicago architecture firm, and its design director Lori Mukoyama to create a space that pays tribute to our city (as well as all four of our previous stores) while catering to the needs of our clientele. In the new store, look for sectioned off “boutiques” with large work tables that give shoppers the ability to mix and match their selections, says Mukoyama. Fitting rooms will be integrated throughout the design to make the guest experience easy and flowing, while our tailors and custom fitters have their own space on the lower level. And because our customers appreciate details, you’ll enjoy the subtle pinstripes (one of Sid’s favorite patterns) on the walls and lounge chair fabric. We’re excited to call 20 North Clark home, and we can’t wait to welcome you!
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MUSIC
HYPNOTIC GROOVES
From the “moonshine roots music” of Valerie June to the cosmic Americana of Sun Seeker, these contemporary artists are guaranteed to put you in good headspace. By Mark Dowden
VALERIE JUNE
“Organic moonshine roots music” is how Tennessee native Valerie June Hockett describes her body of work, but there’s nothing imitative about it. A skilled songwriter and musician, she effortlessly blends blues, bluegrass, folk, soul and classic pop into original ballads that are at once earthy and ethereal. Her voice, too, is one of a kind—high, light and twangy, raw, achy and emotive. That voice alone makes her recent release, The Order of Time, an absolute treat. The album: The Order of Time Go-to song: “Love You Once Made” Deeper dives: “If And,” as well as the powerful “Workin’ Woman Blues” from the album Pushin’ Against a Stone
SUN SEEKER
Lilting, starkly melodic, whimsical and sometimes psychedelic, Sun Seeker is one of the more inventive current bands to emerge from a Nashville basement. Alex Benick (guitar), Asher Horton (bass) and Ben Parks (drums), now 22, have been hanging out and collaborating since eighth grade. Like one of their 1960s inspirations, The Band, these guys possess the poise and musicality to sound polished at a young age. They call their sound “cosmic American music,” and you’ll find it highly listenable. The album: Biddeford, their debut EP Go-to song: “Won’t Keep Me Up at Night” Deeper dives: “Might Be Time” and “Sunny Day Girls”
R.L. BOYCE
Mississippi Hill Country blues is a loose boogie style that can have a hypnotic effect on listeners. One of its foremost masters is R.L. Boyce, a protégé of the great R.L. Burnside. Although he started as a drummer, Boyce was destined to sing and play guitar, which he does with improvisational abandon. Every track on the album Roll and Tumble was recorded in one take, capturing the backyard-jam ethos of the Hill Country. Boyce’s extemporaneous lyrics are awesome. The album: Roll and Tumble Go-to song: “Been Around the World” Deeper dives: “Child of God” and “Going Down South”
HISS GOLDEN MESSENGER
After partying through his 20s and playing in a punk band, Californian M.C. Taylor moved to North Carolina to reboot and study folklore at Chapel Hill. A folk-rock breakthrough followed. Hiss Golden Messenger, with its shifting guest lineup, revolves around Taylor as guitarist, vocalist and songwriter. Through funky tunings, he blurs the line between minor and major keys, “so that the weight of the emotion rests solely on the vocal melody and the lyrical content,” he explains. Hear the sublime results on his latest. The album: Hallelujah Anyhow Go-to song: “When the Wall Comes Down” Deeper dives: “Gulfport You’ve Been on My Mind”; “Saturday’s Song” from Lateness of Dancers
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POINT COUNTERPOINT
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The core of this playlist comprises chill female vocals, from the narcotic quality of Hope Sandoval of Mazzy Star to the shifting falsetto of Joni Mitchell. A nice counterpoint is supplied by some iconic male voices—Sly Stone, Brian Wilson and Steve Miller. “Teenage Talk” by St. Vincent “Love and Mercy” by Brian Wilson “The Fall” by Rhye “I Summon You” by Spoon “California” by Mazzy Star “Ruby, My Dear” by Thelonious Monk
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“One of These Mornings” by Moby “Baby” by Ariel Pink “Family Affair” by Studio Rio and Sly & the Family Stone “The Flight Tonight” by Joni Mitchell “Black Orpheus” by Arturo O’Farrill “Take the Joker and Run” [Acoustic Demo] by The Steve Miller Band
ST. VINCENT
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TRIBUTE
SID SHAPIRO: The Making of the Merchant (and the Man!)
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His journey could happen only in America, and only in Chicago. By Karen Alberg Syd Jerome founder Sidney Shapiro was the epitome of a self-made man. Born on the West Side of Chicago in 1933, Sid was the son of Leo and Sarah (Cohn) Shapiro. A Talmud Torah student at B’nai Reuven, he had a very traditional Jewish upbringing, but when he was just 9 years old, his mother died of a heart attack. Since his father, a tailor, had a chronic illness, they moved in with his father’s sisters where Sid would sleep on a couch or floor as close as possible to his dad. His aunts became surrogate mothers, and as soon as he could start working, Sid found a job to support his father’s care. After a long illness, Leo passed in 1950 when Sid was 17. Sid’s time on Chicago’s West Side was formative. A graduate of Marshall High School and member of the basketball team, he started working at an early age as a runner and hawker on Maxwell Street, and then at Smoky Joe’s. (His sons still have the leather jacket Sid proudly bought there and wore throughout high school.) Sid also learned the language of his West Side neighborhood: speaking backward. He later taught this to his wife—and it became the family’s second language. In the summer of 1951, Sid visited South Haven, Mich., where while playing ball, he met a
guy named Steve who introduced him to his sister Cissie. Within a year, Sid and Cissie were married. Drafted into the Army, Sid served a stint in Germany, keeping America safe using his pencil—as a bookkeeper. On his return from military service in 1956, Sid was determined to build a business. He went to night school at Roosevelt University and in 1958 opened a store at 46 S. Clark St. with a partner, the late Jerry Frishman. They created Syd Jerome; their partnership lasted almost 20 years. As Sid’s sons recall, from the time they could walk they all worked at the store. “We never had the experience of family vacations but rather learned life lessons at Syd Jerome,” says oldest son Lee. “But I wouldn’t trade the street smarts we picked up working there for any photos of Mt. Rushmore.” In fact, Sid didn’t own a car until 1966 but the boys could all navigate public transportation at an early age. An admitted workaholic, Sid would regularly leave his house at 4:30 in the morning to beat traffic and arrive at either the Covenant Club or (later) the East Bank Club to exercise before work, take a short nap (covered with warm towels) and open the store for his tailors by 7:30. The second Syd Jerome store opened at 18 N. Dearborn next
door to the Covenant Club (10 N. Dearborn), with the Camera Exchange and a jeweler between the locations. Sid’s sons have many fond memories of the original store on Clark Street, with its trap door where the tailors would climb into the basement. The boys had chores like stacking ties and shirts “like little soldiers” as Sid would instruct them. When someone suspicious would enter the store, Sid’s sixth sense would kick in. The fear of shoplifting or robbery was all too real in the 1960s and ’70s, so Sid would say things like “schwa the rood” (watch the door) or “og teg a pocker” (go get a copper). He was friends with policemen on every corner but dreaded those late-night calls about break-ins and smashed windows, dragging himself down to the store to clean up and wait for the board-up service. “But he refused to put gates over the windows–that was not the image he wanted to convey,” notes Lee. “His store windows were art galleries meant to inspire potential buyers.” Sid’s finely tuned fashion sensibility gave him the courage to bring in luxury Italian brands before any of his competitors, making Syd Jerome the place where successful men shopped for the finest clothing in the world. Through the doors of Sid’s
Opposite page, clockwise from top left: The City of Chicago congratulated Sid Shapiro on his store’s 50th anniversary, proclaiming July 16, 2008, Syd Jerome Day in the Windy City; Sid and his son Scott often made Chicago headlines, whether they were dressing celebrities, donating to charities or moving the store to larger locations; in its Syd Jerome Day resolution, the Chicago City Council noted that the store is “the favored source of apparel among Chicago’s financial, legal and business patrons”; Sid opened his first store at 46 South Clark St. in 1958 with a partner, Jerry Frishman.
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TRIBUTE
store came all manner of politician, artist, banker, lawyer, sports celebrity, many of whom became great friends. In fact, Sid considered the relationships he developed through the store his crowning achievements. He was known as the “haberdasher to the stars,” and no element of service was too small for him: taking clothes over to someone’s office for a try-on, stopping by a client’s house on his way home from work or making appointments to study their closet, help clean it out, organize their wardrobe. He always remembered every detail of what customers bought, what would match what, when to buy something new. He created the Syd Jerome diet plan—he’d take in the waist on your pants for free if you lost weight but charge you a bundle to let it out. For years, Sid kept a handwritten day-by-day sales ledger, never satisfied unless today’s sales were ahead of yesterday’s. Shortly after Sid and Jerry Frishman split up, Sid formed a deeper and everlasting partnership with his son Scott, who came in with an account-
ing background and assumed responsibility for the business operations, resulting in significant store growth and gaining national acclaim. Scott and Sid were quite the pair, with Scott accompanying Sid on buying trips early on and in later years, with Scott taking Sid, knowing how important it was to his dad to remain a vital part of the business as he aged. Sid loved staying in their suite at the Hyatt Grand Central and going to dinners at their favorite steakhouses and delis. With Scott in the business, Sid was able to dramatically cut back his workload—a whole half day off on Saturdays! He started taking up other interests. He and Cissie bought a “small” (“you could barely walk in it sideways,” recalls his son Lee) condo on a lake. He also had a small boat, although his sons confide he spent more time cleaning it than actually cruising. On the subject of retirement, Sid often said, “I’m not going anywhere—I will live and work forever.” When he first became sick on July 7, he told his
doctors that had he not taken off the week of July 4th and relaxed so much, he would never have gotten sick. He was so consistent in his routines, requesting his cell phone while in the hospital so he could check on business. In fact, when his family was asked to consider Sid’s wishes for a possible hospice location, they said (only half-jokingly) that he’d probably choose the store. Behind every great man is a great woman, and Cissie was Sid’s devoted partner for over 65 years of marriage, always there for the family while Sid put in long hours at the store. She had a way of making him laugh so hard he would cry. Sid loved his work, but he loved Cissie more. Over the course of Sid’s last six weeks, Cissie never left his side. Their love for each other is eternal, the quintessential love story. Sid Shapiro will be greatly missed by so many: for his vision, his taste level, his wit, his kindness and his generosity. May his memory be a blessing to all who knew and loved him.
Above: Syd Jerome has been the source for high-end men’s fashion since it opened in 1958. Local and national media often turned to Sid for his input on the fashion industry as well as his story of running a successful independent business.
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SYD STORIES Sid Shapiro’s customers saw him as more of a friend than a salesman. These longtime clients’ exceptional shopping experiences at Syd Jerome speak to his impeccable taste and his gracious persona.
PRESIDENT OF AZER REHAB SYSTEMS, PC I am from Cairo, Egypt, and I moved to the U.S. in 1978 to Galesburg. In the mid-’80s, I met a gentleman who was from Chicago, and he knew I liked looking for nice clothes and I couldn’t find any in a small town. “I know this guy in Chicago,” he said. “We grew up in the same circle, so let’s go see him.” I came to Syd Jerome and met Scott and Sid. I looked at the clothes like a kid in a candy store, and I’ve been going back ever since twice a year, in the fall and in the spring. Every time I’d shop there, I’d walk in the door and everything would be on the rack. Pants, sportcoats, winter coats, suits, everything in my size. I didn’t have to buy it all but trust me, Sid sold most of it to me. I would say to Sid, “I really don’t need this.” He’d say, “Well, if I sold clothes depending on somebody’s need I wouldn’t be in business. You want it, don’t you?” Anything he brought you bought just because he made you feel good about it. There’s nothing in my wardrobe that didn’t come from Sid. I don’t shop anywhere else. Every suit, every sportcoat, every shirt and every tie and every sock has Sid’s name on it. He picked out everything together. There was no reason to pick everything out yourself because he made it all look so beautiful that I couldn’t do any better. Everyone at Syd Jerome has become family to me, all of them. They’re great people. They all take care of me.
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Photography by Andrew Collings
WILL AZER
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RONALD COPE
PARTNER AT SCHAIN, BANKS, KENNY & SCHWARTZ LTD. I’ve been going to Syd Jerome maybe 40 years, ever since I started practicing law downtown. I was a young kid when I first visited—I could barely afford his suits! But what I remember most about going to Sid’s is he was your friend. I would go in there and spend as much time schmoozing and talking about the events of the world as we did in picking out clothes. Buying the suits was an incidental part. The fact is that going there was just an overall happening. Sid wasn’t just a person who sold suits, he was an artist. He would spend a lot of time matching up a suit that looked good on you with a shirt, a tie—the colors had to blend. He felt like you were a walking advertisement for Syd Jerome. Shopping there was more of a social opportunity. You could go into Syd and see people from all walks of life—politicians, business people, lawyers, movers and shakers of Chicago. It was just a spot to gather at and Sid was the focal point, and the people who go there are people with good taste and he catered to that. Sid would never charge to take in a pair of pants but he would definitely charge to take them out. He wanted you to look good!
FALL/WINTER 2018
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JANET PIOLI
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ATTORNEY AT BRINKS GILSON & LIONE
I started shopping at Syd Jerome about 31 years ago. It started with me buying ties or cufflinks for my then-boyfriend. He had awful ties, and for Christmas one year, I went into Syd Jerome and bought him a tie. I think he wore it until it frayed off his neck. I later introduced my husband Evan to Sid and Scott. We got married 22 years ago at the Hyatt in Grand Cayman. We stayed down there for seven days to establish residency and were working with the head of catering at the Hyatt. She tells me we have to sign a commercial contract that could cost millions of dollars, [require] indemnification…. I thought, “This is nuts; this is just a small wedding of 50 people!” The next thing you know she was calling me and saying, “Janet, I have to tell you I’m supposed to do whatever you want.” Apparently Sid made a call to the Hyatt, and we were treated so well. He really made it happen. For another occasion Evan needed a new tuxedo, so Sid worked with us to get him a new tux and a shirt. Sid showed me these shirts, and one of them had a black vertical stripe down each side. I said to Sid, “Oh, he’ll never wear that,” and Sid said, “He’ll wear what we tell him to wear.” And he wore it! Every tuxedo Evan has owned since we got married has been bought through Sid. He and Scott pretty much dressed him.
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JOHN MANIKAS INVESTMENT BROKER
It was 1979. I was 18 years old and just graduated high school and was looking to spend maybe a couple hundred dollars on a suit, shirt and tie that I needed for a wedding. I came across Syd Jerome’s first store on Dearborn. I walk in and there was Sid and his partner Jerry. Jerry was smoking a cigarette with his knee up on a stool and they both said, “Young man, can we help you?” I tried on a $200 suit and I ended up buying Armani for $450. I bought the suit, two ties and a shirt for $600, $700 altogether. The funny thing is I’m a kid in school going to college. I spent $650 on a suit and outfit that I wasn’t expecting to spend! But I’ve been a customer ever since. I used to go into the store in the morning, and Sid and I used to look at the obituaries. Sid used to tell me he’s going to live forever. Everybody was dying, and Sid was still living. “I’m not going anywhere,” he’d say. “I’m going to live forever.”
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ESSENTIALS
LAYER IT ON
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Who said you can’t stay warm and look good too?
Jacket by Waterville, half-zip sweater by Canali, flannel shirt by Johnnie-O.
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ESSENTIALS
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Sportcoat by Canali, wool vest by Gran Sasso, flannel shirt by Stenstrรถms, wool tie by Paolo Albizzati, silk pocket round by Edward Armah.
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Official Clothiers for the LA Galaxy samuelsohn.com
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ESSENTIALS
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Wool sportcoat and vest by Belvest, casual shirt by Eton, wool tie by Paolo Albizzati, pocket round by Edward Armah.
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THE LEADING MAN
Sheer Magnetism Actor Michael Fassbender exerts a powerful pull on and off the screen. Even as a bad guy, he’s got the goods.
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Dangerous Method and Rochester in Jane Eyre, and his full-frontal-nude scene as a sex addict in Shame set tongues wagging that nature had not shortchanged him. Critics say Fassbender is endowed with real talent too— despite recent clunkers like The Snowman and Assassin’s Creed—and works his best screen magic with roles calling for intensity. Indeed, Fassbender has a personal magnetism even Magneto might envy. People watch what he does and what he wears—he’s known to favor such brands as Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Louis Vuitton and has been seen in photo shoots in jeans, polos and designer shirts. Folks clamor for news of his personal life too, though there he’s a bit more guarded. “I’m not going to talk about my private life with a total stranger until I feel the need to,” Fassbender once told a reporter. “Why would I?” Well, we’re curious! Word has it that Fassbender lives in Portugal with his wife, Swedish actress Alicia Vikander (an Oscar winner for 2015’s The Danish Girl), whom he met during the 2014 filming of The Light Between Oceans. The couple would surely have been swarmed by paparazzi when they wed in October 2017 on the Spanish island of Ibiza—but they managed to keep news of the ceremony secret until afterward. What more will we learn in years to come about this dynamo, on and off the screen? Whatever it is, it’s bound to be intense.
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Whether he’s donning a polo shirt and jeans or a double-breasted chalk stripe suit, actor Michael Fassbender always knows how to look good—even when he’s playing the bad guy on screen.
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ou’re forgiven if the name Michael Fassbender brings to mind his portrayal of the archvillain Magneto in the X-Men movies, starting with X-Men: First Class in 2011. That was an indelible performance—even though the star has dismissed it as merely “some dude shouting.” But you can’t find all of this versatile actor’s tricks in the pages of Marvel comics. He’s played everything from Apple founder Steve Jobs (in the eponymous 2015 movie) to a vicious slaveowner (in 12 Years a Slave, 2013)—to cite two roles that have earned him Academy Award nominations. Now 41, Fassbender was born April 2, 1977, in West Germany. But early on, his family traded an industrial neighborhood for Ireland’s County Kerry, where his parents ran Killarney’s West End House restaurant. At 17, after being cast in a play, Fassbender knew drama was his calling. So, it was off to the Drama Centre in London to learn his craft—until he dropped out in 1999 to tour with the Oxford Stage Company. His film debut as a Spartan warrior in the 2007 fantasy war epic 300 proved he was on the right track. (Before that, you’d recognize him only for his role in a Guinness commercial.) And his adherence to a 600-calorie-a-day diet to prepare for the role of IRA hunger striker Bobby Sands in Hunger (2008) shows how far he’s willing to go for an epic performance. The year 2011 was especially big: That’s when Fassbender portrayed psychoanalyst Carl Jung in 2011’s A
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BEAUTY IS A BEAST
Engineers loaded the Aston Martin DB11 with a monstrous V8 engine that takes you from 0–60 in four seconds—because you can’t get by on good looks alone.
| SYD JEROME
Leave it to Aston Martin to figure out a formula proving that eight isn’t always less than 12. The legendary British automaker has reinvented the mighty DB11, creating a lighter, easier-tohandle (who knew that was possible?) alternative to the previous 12-cylinder model. The new DB11—as well as its drop-top Volante trim—is powered by a German-made, 503-horsepower V8 engine that does the 0-60 mph sprint in a blistering four seconds—only one-tenth of a second off its sibling’s pace. And, of course, it’s packed with all the gadgets associated with the Aston Martin brand. Spoiler alert: This car is expected to make a bang in 2019’s Bond 25.
Choose Aston Martin Q, the bespoke treatment that will outfit the car with soft textured surfaces, patterned stitching, custom colors and more.
Say goodbye to chrome! Dark exterior trim, including the black detail of a purse-lipped grille, is a style 180 for Aston Martin.
The lightweight design of Mercedes-AMG’s twin-turbo V8 engine— tuned to Aston Martin’s specs—ensures the new DB11 has as much pep as its V12 sibling (though 503 horsepower also comes in handy).
The engine, combined with a new and unique exhaust system, creates the glorious roar that exotic sports car owners crave.
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Luxurious details cover every square inch of the interior, from full-grain leather seats to an automated up-and-away steering column. Even closing the door is an event, thanks to suede pulls.
Radio and climate controls are adjusted through the MercedesBenz COMMAND infotainment system. In addition to the 8-inch display, the car’s other electronic highlights include a 360-degree camera and Wi-Fi.
If this car isn’t sexy enough, opt for the Volante V8. It has the same ride and features—in a convertible.
The DB11’s sculpted body is matched by the various cuts and styles of its 20-inch, 10-spoke wheels.
Grocery shopping in an Aston Martin? Of course! The DB11 now comes equipped with a foot-activated trunk release, making it a heck of a lot easier to load packages.
Whether the lights are on or off, smoked-out blade taillights give followers an aggressive stare.
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A pair of hood vents and a black bezel around the LED headlamps are two of this beauty’s distinguishing features.
This performer is also practical. Folding side mirrors are fully automatic and have hidden LED indicator lamps.
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Broad Strokes
There’s nothing abstract about it. There’s an art to choosing the best tailored clothing. FALL/WINTER 2018
Left, suit, shirt and tie by Canali, pocket square by Paolo Albizzati. Right, suit by Giorgio Armani, shirt by Eton, tie by Paolo Albizzati, pocket square by Edward Armah.
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Left, sportcoat and shirt by Robert Talbott, sweater by Patrick Assaraf, tie by Paolo Albizzati, pants by Canali. Right, suit, sweater, shirt and tie by Etro, pocket square by Edward Armah.
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Left, suit by Corneliani, shirt by Eton, tie and pocket square by Paolo Albizzati. Right, sportcoat, shirt and tie by Isaia, pocket square by Paolo Albizzati, pants by Zanella.
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Left, navy striped suit by Belvest, checked shirt by Stenstrรถms, tie by Canali, pocket square by Edward Armah. Right, gray suit by Samuelsohn, white shirt by Taccaliti, striped tie by Paolo Albizzati, pocket square by Edward Armah.
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gone to the dogs: resorts that cater to your best friend F
rom coast to coast, there are elegant hotels that not only treat you like a king, but respect your pup’s royal pedigree too. Pets are welcomed—not just allowed—in these luxe lodges, which pamper them with treats, concierge walking, lush grounds for romping and other perks. Five standouts are spotlighted on the following pages. Truth be told, it may cost a little more to take Fido along. But is your best friend worth it, or what? And think what you’ll save on kennel costs!
Can’t imagine vacationing without your pet? Don’t worry— some luxury hotels go out of their way to keep Fido’s tail wagging.
CYPRESS INN, Carmel, California
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Dogs will know they’re getting the luxe treatment when they’re served grilled chicken in a doggie bowl. But what could be more appropriate for an establishment co-owned by actress and animal rights activist Doris Day? Right in the heart of Carmel, this historic landmark inn with 1920s-era Spanish architecture has been called the nation’s most dog-friendly hotel. But it’s not only the inn that loves our furry friends. The city, too, is simpatico and puts out a dog-friendly guide to its attractions. For instance, dogs can run along the beautiful Carmel Beach or stroll on a leash through the quaint village where store owners are ready with a doggie treat and water. Other highlights—for humans—are king suites with fireplaces, live music in the hotel’s cozy living room and breakfast with fresh fruit and baked goods. Also check out Terry’s Restaurant & Lounge for Moroccan chicken, grilled rack of lamb and other fare made with fresh local ingredients. Is the lodging industry going to the dogs? Que será, será!
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FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, Houston, Texas
| SYD JEROME
Ruff will feel like a VIP (Very Important Pet) when he stays with you in this swanky spot in jumpin’ downtown Houston. The hotel’s pet policy, says management, is designed so that owners are stress-free and don’t have to worry about their pets. A concierge handles daily dog walks, and amenities like special bowls, toys and water bottles all make the place seem like home. And if you prefer to take your own dog for a longer walk, nearby Discovery Green is a great option. Humans can find their luxury pampering at Four Seasons’ Spa & Fitness Center. Discover a variety of massages to nurture your body, or have some fun with yoga and wine at a group exercise class. This spa, with many eyecatching features, made the cover of American Spa magazine in 2016. Then there’s the spacious, newly renovated lobby, which not too modestly calls itself “Houston’s Living Room,” ready for sipping, socializing or just relaxing. Also, don’t miss the chic bourbon bar, Bayou & Bottle, or the Topgolf Swing Suite, featuring golf simulators. While your dog lives the life of Riley at this raved-about facility, maybe you can focus on your game.
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THE ST. REGIS ASPEN RESORT, Aspen, Colorado Want to trade walking the dog for relaxing poolside with a strawberry daiquiri or spend more time on the powdery slopes? At this resort you have only to whisper your wish, and guilt is gone. The staff at the redesigned St. Regis is happy to take the leash for a while, and also provides bowls, treats and a doggie bed while you leave your cares behind at the Reméde Spa. (Try the soothing waterfall, oxygen lounge or the cold-and-warm plunge pools.) There’s also a fitness center and gift boutique. Although most people come for the slopes, that’s only part of the outdoor fun in a region also known for horseback riding, bicycling and whitewater rafting. By day, take Rover for a romp at Ruby Park only a few minutes away. By night, Mountain Social beckons you to sip a cocktail by the fireplace and reflect on this best-ever vacation for you and your four-legged friend.
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THE PENINSULA HOTEL, New York, New York
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Right down to its location—just four blocks from Central Park—The Peninsula is a pooch paradise. While you might visit for the abundant shopping and entertainment in Midtown Manhattan, your pet will love the park and the pampering that starts with a personalized welcome card and water bottle. Any dog 60 pounds or under is welcome. Fido will have all the comforts of home—a doggie bed, bowl and treats—and (if you’re in a suite) a collar, leash, bandana and small toy, all with the Peninsula logo. He’ll wag his tail and you’ll be worry-free as you discover the awardwinning Peninsula Spa, the cutting-edge fitness center and the glass-enclosed pool. Perhaps, after a day of hitting the stores, your much-deserved rest will come on the sun terrace with its panoramic city views, followed by a taste sensation at The Peninsula’s signature Clement restaurant, and when the sun sets, a toast in the rooftop bar, Salon de Ning.
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THE COTTAGES AT NANTUCKET BOAT BASIN, Nantucket, Massachusetts For a laid-back beach experience both you and your pet will love, this inn offers 17 “Woof Cottages” that are often in demand. Dogs are greeted by their own pet concierge, a lab/spaniel named Bailey, who knows this famous island like the back of his paw. Guests and their pooches have all the comforts of home, including a full kitchen to make favorite meals, doggie beds, personalized pet tags and nautical chew toys—just right for lodgings with views of the blue harbor. Dog-walking services are available, but visitors also may enjoy taking a long trek with their pet at neighboring Sanford Farm. After making their pet happy, visitors can indulge themselves with a first-class massage or spa treatment at the nearby White Elephant Spa, where the scenery rivals the serenity you experience. Or hop on a complimentary bike for a tour of the town, perhaps stopping for a bite at one of the many eateries. There’s also a free bus to Nantucket’s beaches—a not-to-be-missed destination. FALL/WINTER 2018
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color theory
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Formality needn’t be forbidding—especially not in the work of award-winning Los Angeles interior designer Mary McDonald, who began her career designing hats. Her spaces showcase bold hues—as seen in Mary McDonald: The Allure of Design. Hats off to Mary!
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Rather than alter the espresso Wayne Manor paneling of this formal living room, Mary McDonald let the sun shine through, using fabrics in refreshing hues like cream and lemon yellow. It’s hard not to notice the Asian motif on the vintage chinoiserie and the bone pagoda collection, but she added a French flavor as well: The gallery wall features goldframed photos of a Paris map.
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This page, the entrance to one of McDonald’s recent projects resembles the lobby of a fine European hotel; so she played up the drama with 18th century daybeds beside the original limestone Gothic arches. The persimmon cotton velvet draperies with brass Houles hardware frame the view of a backyard through original mullioned windows. Opposite page, pretty in pink is McDonald’s mantra, and she uses it as a neutral in fashion designer Jill Roberts’ home offfice, where a zebra-skin rug, antiques and a ’60s chinoiserie mirror complete the look.
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This page, although blue is the dominant color contrasted with white, McDonald’s love for pink shines through with a rosy glow on the bed’s ceiling. The blue velvet stools were a flea-market find that bestow an old-world charm. Opposite page, this guesthouse got the royal treatment—royal blue that is! A blue-and-white scheme extends to the antique walls, chairs and custom-stenciled seagrass rug. The 19th century French boudoir chair also has the blues, but in velvet. Putting antiques in a modern setting is a passion for McDonald.
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Seeking a suit that’s more you? Look beyond off-the-rack and discover the world where you get precisely what you want.
you should know about made-tomeasure
5things
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THE PERFECT FIT
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One and done Forget about spending hours trying on clothes in a tight fitting room. Once tailors have confirmed your measurements and design selections at the initial meeting, your job is essentially done. Made-to-measure requires few fittings, or in some cases none at all. (That’s more time to shop for ties, pocket squares and shoes!) But be patient: The turnaround time for a suit can range from two weeks to two months.
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what’s your fancy? Windowpane pattern, notch lapel, pleated pants. Made-to-measure programs have dozens of items you can customize—from buttons to linings to pockets and more—so scan your closet and decide what you need and what you want. Not sure what’s in style? Trust your made-tomeasure specialists to help guide you to make the best decisions.
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only the best fabrics The fabric you choose for your made-tomeasure garment comes from a curated selection of mills. Narrowing the group of mills used as sources helps make sure that you receive the best and most luxurious fabrics.
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it’s all about the base After your measurements are taken, tailors will select a base pattern that most closely matches your numbers. This base is then altered to correspond with your measurements, ensuring that your suit or shirt will fit to a T.
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MTM vs. OTR Don’t get us wrong: We love the economy of off-the-rack garments, and they can create memorable looks. But face it—they don’t fit like a made-to-measure suit or shirt. Not every guy is an average Joe, so standard retail sizes and designs won’t always cut it. Because made-tomeasure is based on your measurements, each piece is guaranteed to fit perfectly.
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it’s what’s on top | SYD JEROME
Sportcoats. Jackets. Puffers. Fall in love with the season’s hottest styles.
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Left, sportcoat by Castangia, sweater by Stenstrรถms, shirt by Eton, pants by Zanella, pocket square by Edward Armah. Right, sport coat by Brioni, vest by Gran Sasso, shirt by Stenstrรถms, pants by Zanella, pocket square by Paolo Albizzati.
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Left, sportcoat by Luigi Bianchi Mantova, sweater and shirt by Stenstrรถms, pants by Canali, pocket square by Edward Armah. Right, sportcoat by Santarelli, sweater by Paul & Shark, shirt by Eton, jeans by PT05, pocket square by Edward Armah.
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Left, jacket, sweater and shirt by Luciano Barbera, jeans by Mac Jeans. Right, black coat and shirt by Paul & Shark, jeans by Mac Jeans.
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THE SPORTING LIFE
Swiss Bliss
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Verbier is for you if you’re a royal—or want to ski and party like one. By Everett Potter
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Only the savviest American skiers seem to have a clue about the Swiss resort Verbier. For Alpine ski culture, most of us think first of Zermatt, Austria’s St. Anton or maybe the Les Trois Vallées region of France. Typically, as in my case, it’s only word of mouth, often from British friends, that leads to a visit to Verbier. So here’s the report in a nutshell: For any traveler with a keen sense of style, a desire to be on the cutting edge of the European ski scene and a yearning for challenging pistes and chic accommodations, Verbier is the hands-down choice. The youngest of the major Swiss ski resorts, Verbier attracts an international community of rich and perhaps not-quite-so-rich vacationers. The daily drill is simple: ski all day, party all night and then repeat. “Go big or go home” is the unofficial rule for skiing and après-skiing in Verbier. In my experience, it’s a place to bring your spouse, partner or best friend and leave the kids at home. Dubbed “the Aspen of the Alps,” Verbier does bear a resemblance to that Rocky Mountain spot. This moneyed, French-speaking Suisse Romande resort attracts a youngish crowd to its discos and on-mountain restaurants, its luxury shops and chic hotels, as well as its challenging slopes. The Brits love it, often referring to it simply as “Verbs.” If you’re stargazing, you may catch a glimpse of such royals as the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (William and Kate); the Duke and Duchess of Sussex (Harry and new bride Meghan); or Sarah, Duchess of York (Fergie, who was once employed here as a “chalet girl,” a wintertime babysitter and chef, and co-owns a chalet with ex-husband Prince Andrew). Such non-royals as singer-songwriter James Blunt, singer Diana Ross and entrepreneur Richard Branson are also fair game for sightings. Those glimpses could be at lunch at Le Carrefour or amid the flashing disco
lights at The Farm Club, which still sets the tone for nightlife 45 years after its founding. THE SKIING
Located in southwestern Switzerland in the canton of Valais, about a 90-minute drive or train ride from Geneva, Verbier is one of the largest lift-linked areas in the world. There are 93 lifts and an astonishing 256 miles of ski runs. Set at 8,200 feet, Verbier has reliable snow when lower-altitude resorts are running out of the stuff. With such a vast area, there’s a nearly endless menu for skiers. On a clear morning, after a few warm-up runs, I love heading up to the top of Mont Fort by cable car. Here at the resort’s highest peak, about 10,500 feet, there is a quite literally breathtaking panorama that includes the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe at 15,774 feet. From here, I like to ski down into the moguls with a guide—by far the smartest, safest way to ski offpiste in Verbier—in areas like Tortin, Gentianes, Mont Fort and Plan du Fou. There are far tougher off-piste areas, but they are best left to far more agile skiers. Come for the Freeride World Tour in March and you can see them throwing themselves off cliffs in a staggering display of athleticism and daring. After a challenging morning, I like nothing better than a languid alfresco lunch at Chez Dany with classic fondue or perhaps Swiss rösti at La Marmotte, with the obligatory glass or two of the local Fendant wine. THE VILLAGE & THE W VERBIER
Verbier may look as if it’s been around for centuries, but in fact it was only really developed after World War II. It is a spacious resort with bright, uninterrupted views of the mountains. The W Verbier is the essence of Verbier. Forget your notions of an urban W hotel. This property is
a cluster of four low-lying chalet buildings, linked by glass atriums and incorporating local wood and stone—as cutting-edge design-wise as anything in the Alps. The W is close to Place Blanche, and most of Verbier’s shops, restaurants and nightspots are along the road between here and Place Centrale. The W appeals to a well-heeled crowd ranging from ages 30 to 50-something, nearly all couples, and most of its 130 rooms are designed for a maximum of two guests. Those rooms are spacious enough, with large wooden balconies, blissful beds and floor-to-ceiling windows, with a gas fireplace visible from the bathroom as well as the bedroom. The essence of the W Verbier is that you get smart style as well as a two-minute walk to the gondola in the morning. The hotel’s AWAY Spa features an indoor pool that flows into an outdoor pool overlooking the Verbier Valley, a sauna, a hammam Jacuzzi and a fitness center. I’m partial to the Balinese massage, but the spa also has such esoteric rituals as a Bamboo & Lotus Scrub and even a Caviar Body Treatment. The Catalan flavors at the Eat-Hola tapas bar are courtesy of culinary director Sergi Arola, whose Madrid eatery won two Michelin stars. It is by far my favorite option, but there’s also Carve Sushi and W Kitchen on offer for diners. I rarely stay up all night anymore but if you’re so inclined, the W’s Curve nightclub makes it happen just a few minutes away from your room. How good is the hotel? In 2017, the World Ski Awards chose it as the World’s Best Ski Hotel. That’s a lofty pronouncement, so I’ll let you be the judge. But I would gladly return with my K2s and settle in for a week of the most rarefied Alpine pleasures in the world. And if there’s a royal at the table next to mine at Chez Dany, so much the better.
Opposite page, clockwise from top: The Verbier Ski Resort boasts more than 250 miles of ski runs, many of which require equal amounts of athleticism and fearlessness to conquer; dining options abound at the W Verbier hotel, including the Eat-Hola tapas bar—which is under the leadership of Michelin-starred culinary director Sergi Arola; Swiss mountain towns host Bell Dorado festivals, in which the loud tone of cowbells are said to drive away evil spirits and ensure green pastures; the guest rooms at the hotel feature a large wooden balcony and gas fireplace; known as the “Aspen of the Alps,” Verbier offers lively discos, challenging slopes and luxurious shops that attract a crowd ranging from age 30 to 50-something.
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Fall/ Winter 2018 Collection
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FITNESS
yoga mans up
| SYD JEROME
In truth, the ancient practice has never been just for women. Now a new, tougher type makes that super-clear. By Lee Lusardi Connor
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ever get their heart rates above a certain level. In Warrior Sculpt, we have cardio and core conditioning but also yoga breath, body awareness and flexibility.” Participants are guided through equal-length segments, with a music playlist curated to motivate and inspire. “By the end, you’ve had all the benefits of mindfulness and breath-body connection—and you’re a sweaty puddle,” says Haggerty. Indeed, sweating and heat are common themes in the power yoga movement. Sweat provides the physical evidence of exertion some fitness fans crave, and heat facilitates stretching and dilates the vascular system. “Vasodilation lets blood flow more easily through the body, which is the way the body delivers nutrients to all its tissues,” Gallagher explains. Temperatures in hot yoga studios vary, but the ideal heat index—which is a calculation of the room’s air temperature and percentage of humidity—is around 110 to 112°F, Gallagher says. (The American Council on Exercise recommends drinking a lot of water and wearing comfortable form-fitting clothing that allows easy movement. Some conditions—heart or lung disease, for example—may make hot yoga inadvisable; check with your doctor.) Perhaps counterintuitively, all that exertion leads to a calmer, more peaceful approach to the rest of the day. “One woman wrote me a note telling me how her husband had changed since he began taking Warrior Sculpt,” says Haggerty. “He used to come home from work and be strict with the kids and harp about things in the house, but through the class he learned awareness and how not to bring a stressful job home with him.” Fierce Grace’s Isaac says she has seen similar effects in the executives in her own classes. “If only we could get every member of every board of every corporation to do yoga before meetings, board meetings would be much more productive—and nicer,” she says. Similar benefits are reaped by military personnel at Hot Asana, Gallagher reports. “They do incredibly challenging work, and yoga has a huge impact on the mind and spirit as well. It’s a holistic approach that, even if it can’t be articulated, is deeply felt.” Bottom line? “Drop your bias and give yoga a go,” says Gallagher. “I just turned 49, and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen guys at the back of the room look at each other like, ‘Mind blown. This woman is handing me my butt, and I didn’t expect that.’”
FALL/WINTER 2018
or many men, working out means pushing ever harder, building strength and muscles and sweating a lot. That’s why so many are taking up yoga. Yoga’s physical benefits are well documented. They include better sleep, improved cardiovascular function, heightened immune-system performance and weight loss. Oh yes, and increased sexual stamina. Still, for years, fitness aficionados regarded yoga as a “feminine” practice. “For many, the idea of yoga has had an airy-fairy, stretchy, skinny, dancer, female-body connotation,” says Virginia Gallagher, founder and owner of the Hot Asana Sweat & Soul chain, which has locations in North Carolina, Virginia, New Hampshire and Colorado. “While a yin-style practice does have a meditative quality, a yang-style targets the muscles and blood and is a more ‘power’ approach. That’s the entry door the U.S. male population needs to get into yoga.” And ever more yoga studios are finding ways to open that door. Fierce Grace is a new yoga system that blends strength and flexibility and has taken off in the U.K. It recently opened its first U.S. studio in New York City. The hot yoga classes are geared to either gender and any age or ability level, says Kelly Isaac, co-owner of the New York studio. “Still, knowing that a lot of guys feel intimidated about attending a yoga class, we made our branding a bit macho and tongue-in-cheek—for example, photos of tattooed guys in leather doing yoga poses,” she says. “Our space is cool, open, not too pretty, and our practice is strong, and that is more appealing to guys.” Military personnel make up a big chunk of participants in Hot Flow and Heated Power Vinyasa classes at Hot Asana’s Southern Pines, N.C., studio near Fort Bragg. Gallagher also created the 21-Day Power Yoga Course for Men’s Health magazine at the behest of one of her devoted clients, a sergeant in the Special Forces. “For military personnel, our approach is intense enough that it doesn’t feel unmasculine in any way,” Gallagher says. Warrior Sculpt, “a soulful yet fierce fusion of yoga and weights” offered at the national fitness chain Life Time, was also created with a holistic approach in mind. “This class filled the space in between kinds of workouts people tend to gravitate to,” says Katie Haggerty, group fitness national brand manager, who developed the program. “There are people who wouldn’t dream of entering a yoga studio, and people who do yoga or related exercises but don’t
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PURSUITS
Droning On! With confidence built into its name, Surefly is the ’copter that doubles as a drone. By Timothy Kelley
It’s like nouvelle cuisine cooked up a ’copter. Planned for a 2019 debut at a price under $200,000, the Surefly from the Workhorse Group is powered by a BMW 600-cc, twin-cylinder generator engine that responds to joystick commands. You’ll need a pilot’s license to fly it, but because it’s classed as a light-sport aircraft, that credential requires fewer hours of training than does a standard helicopter pilot’s license.
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on’t yawn next year when your neighbor opens his garage to show off his self-driving car—and by all means don’t ask with a snarky smile, “How high does it fly?” Fact is, by 2019 your own garage could be home to a self-driving vehicle that soars way above traffic. It’s the Surefly from the Ohio-based Workhorse Group, and it’s either a reimagined helicopter that can give you and your sweetheart a lift or a drone you can send home alone like a horse that knows the way. You decide. Set to hit the market next year for a close-to-the-ground price of under $200,000, the Surefly VTOL (vertical-takeoff-and-landing) craft has been building buzz since its debut at the 2017 Paris Air Show. It’s not the only “air taxi” in development, but while the others use electric motors alone, Surefly is powered by a gas combustion engine. It boasts a range of 70 miles, an hour’s flight time per tank and a maximum lift
capacity of 400 pounds—that’s two adults, or one adult and some stuff— thanks to eight propellers fixed in contra-rotating pairs on four arms. And to give you peace of mind that this is not your last adventure, its makers make triple-sure of Surefly. There’s full computer and electrical redundancy, and if the gas-powered generator fails, two 7.5-kilowatthour lithium-ion battery packs take over to assure a safe landing. If those balk too, there’s even a ballistic parachute to waft you to the ground. Did we say “garage?” With a fuselage and propellers crafted of carbon fiber, this nimble 1,100-pounder (for a helicopter, that’s svelte) can indeed fold its arms down to fit snugly into a standard car garage. And how high can Surefly fly? Workhorse puts its flight ceiling at 4,000 feet. For a personal vehicle so compact and nimble, that’s a lift for the spirits even in this tech-jaded age.
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CESAR OROZCO US AIR FORCE V P, C O M M E R C I A L B A N K I N G W E L L S FA R G O
B R I A N S TA N N US MARINE CORPS COO, FIRSTKEY HOMES
MICHAEL ABRAMS US MARINE CORPS FOUNDER, FOURBLOCK
BARRETT SCRUGGS US ARMY S V P, G L O B A L C O N S U M E R BANK, CITI
L E A R N T H E I R S T O R I E S AT H I C K E Y F R E E M A N . C O M / H E R O E S A N D L E A D E R S
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GOURMET
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the world is your oyster Open up and explore all the flavors these beautifully briny bivalves have to offer. By Daria Meoli
Y
ou’ve got to hand it to the oyster; it’s nothing if not diverse. The marvelous mollusk comes in more than 150 varieties, each with its own distinct taste and texture. For those looking to expand their oyster horizons or try these slippery little suckers for the first time this season, here are a few—forgive us—pearls of wisdom. While these gems of the sea can be enjoyed year-round, oyster aficionados agree that the briny bivalves are at their peak flavor between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day. From the Hog Island Sweetwater to the First Light, the clever names for oyster varieties seem to go on forever. This nomenclature reflects where the oysters live, the type of water they filter and the way they are handled. However, there are only five distinct species of oysters found in the U.S.: Pacific, Atlantic, Kumamoto, European flat and Olympic. Geography matters too. Oysters raised on the West Coast, such as the Kusshi, Raspberry
Point, Goose Point and Royal Miyagi varieties, tend to be sweet, creamy, round and plump with deep edges. Their East Coast counterparts, including Wellfleets, Blue Points, Salt Ponds and Ram Islands, are usually brinier, chewier and narrower. Avoid an oyster if the shell is cracked, has holes or is open and will not close to the touch. Once the mollusk passes the shell test, the oyster meat should be plump and juicy and have a healthy sheen. To really taste each variety’s nuances, eat oysters raw. Whether you are ordering them at an oyster bar or preparing them at home, they should be kept alive until the moment before they are consumed. If you buy a bag of freshly harvested oysters and some are dead, all is not lost. These oysters can be grilled, fried or enjoyed in a stew or chowder. What to quaff with oysters? During the Civil War, Union General McClellan’s slowness caused Lincoln’s Secretary of War to
grumble that he was goofing off instead of pursuing Rebs. “This champagne and oysters on the Potomac must be stopped,” said Edwin Stanton—but even he couldn’t kill that classic pairing. Besides champagne, Vinho Verde or even Sauvignon Blanc are other good mollusk matches. But so are beers, such as India pale ales or fruity wheat beers—or porters, which offer a delicious break from the norm. A dry martini also pairs nicely. Whether you choose to savor these salty treats with a splash of lemon, with a hint of hot sauce or smothered in mignonette, there is one rule for eating oysters: Do not swallow them in one gulp. Oysters should be chewed to enjoy all the tightly packed taste. In the center of the oyster is a disc of muscle with a sweetness similar to scallops, and the belly pops with salty liquid. Chewing will mix these flavors together nicely. One last tip: Eating oysters can feel awkward, but slurp with confidence and don’t waste a drop of the salty goodness.
6 BRINY BITES MAINE BELONS
COFFIN BAY KING
WELLFLEETS
APALACHICOLA
Originally a Japanese cultured oyster, this fruity and firm variety is now common in the Northwest. The Kumamotos are mild and sweet and have a melon-like flavor that makes them ideal for first-time oyster eaters. Home: Washington
Belons, a type of European flat, were originally brought to Maine in the ’50s by scientists hoping to repopulate the region’s oyster beds. Today they are flourishing off the Atlantic coast. Maine Belons are harvested by divers and have a strong flavor with a metallic-tinny finish. These bivalves are not for the faint of heart. Home: Maine
Grown off the West Coast of Australia, Coffin Bay King oysters grow for six years instead of the usual 18 months and have up to 10 times more meat than the average oyster. While currently available only in Australia, Europe and Asia, this expensive delicacy (about $74 for one) can make for a sweet indulgence on overseas trips. Home: Australia
Wellfleets are exposed to the open air on the beach as the tides recede. This forces them to hold their shells closed tightly until the tide returns, giving their meat a firm texture. It takes between two to three years to cultivate these wild, potent, briny oysters. Home: Massachusetts
These Gulf Coast oysters are harvested right off the bulge of the Florida panhandle. This area has been called one of the “oyster miracle places.” Apalachicola is the last place in the United States where wild oysters are still harvested by fishermen in small boats using tongs. Home: Florida
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KUMAMOTO
Grown near Cape Cod, these hearty, meaty oysters are a bit rare but worth the hunt. Biting into the meat offers a burst of flavor with a creamy, citrus, vanilla-like finish. Home: Massachusetts
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MOON SHOALS
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SPIRITS
4 X4 4 X4 POUR IT ON!
Four who excel in the making of liquor reveal where they go for a well-made drink.
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ith the possible exception of the ocean, alcohol is the most cosmopolitan liquid there is. That’s why a producer of bitters in Munich can tell you where to bend your elbow in Denver, while a New York distiller directs you to a Barcelona barstool. Drawn from the recent book Straight Up: The Insiders’ Guide to The World’s Most Interesting Bars and Drinking Experiences, here’s where four top booze-makers like to go for a splendidly concocted cocktail. Jared Brown of Sipsmith Gin Distillery pours classic martinis.
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SPIRITS
Allen Katz New York Distilling Company, New York City
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BOOZY BACKSTORY: Before co-founding the New York Distilling Company in 2011, Allen Katz had experience in both the food and beverage industries. He helped run Toscana Saporita, a cooking school in Tuscany; he worked with Slow Food USA, which promotes local food and traditional cooking; and he was the director of spirits education and mixology for Southern Wine & Spirits, one of the country’s largest distributors. He even hosted a show called The Cocktail Hour on Martha Stewart’s now-defunct Sirius XM satellite radio station. BEST KNOWN FOR: The distiller’s Dorothy Parker American Gin and Mister Katz’s Rock & Rye spirits are now considered part of the canon for mixologists and are stocked behind the bars of many discerning alcohol alchemists. Katz has been called the modern face of New York City’s distilling scene. FAVORITE WATERING HOLES: Barcelona’s Boadas, a bar that “sings of the romance of cocktail culture. The rhythm of the thrown cocktails, the vibrancy of Las Rambla [a street in the Spanish city] and the daydream of generations of happy drinkers.” Katz also enjoys throwing back a few at Death & Co in New York City, Dukes Bar in London and French 75 in New Orleans. TIP FOR GETTING TOASTED: At McSorley’s Ale House (shown above right), thought to be the oldest bar in New York City, Katz’s advice is to “go in the afternoon and spend the evening with a good friend. The time passes simply and joyously in a perfect pub environment that exudes the classic character of the city.” ONE FOR THE ROAD: The New York Distilling Company produces three types of gin, a rye and a whiskey. So, when Katz gets thirsty, what’s his poison? A rye whiskey Manhattan, straight up with a lemon twist.
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Kieran Middleton Bellfield Brewery, Edinburgh
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BOOZY BACKSTORY: If Guinness is good for you, Bellfield is better. Kieran Middleton (shown above left) is the brewer and business development manager at this Edinburgh, Scotland-based craft-beer maker he helped launch in 2016. Middleton and his team spent months locked away in a tiny kitchen experimenting with gluten-free, vegan beers until he cooked up a recipe to rival any glutenfull suds on tap. BEST KNOWN FOR: Cracking the code for making gluten-free beer that tastes like actual beer. Bellfield Brewery is the U.K.’s first microbrewery to use traditional brewing methods with nontraditional ingredients to ferment India pale ales (IPAs) and pilsners for gluten-averse brewski fans. These beers also are certified by the Coeliac U.K. and the Vegan Society. FAVORITE WATERING HOLES: Middleton’s hometown recommendation is Staggs Bar in Musselburgh, Scotland. “The beer is why you’re here,” he says. “Unlike many modern craft bars, this one treats beer with reverence and celebrity. The star of the show is Oakham Ales Green Devil. At 6 percent, you can easily have too much of this pale and intensely hoppy beauty.” Middleton also recommends Bad Martha in Martha’s Vineyard, Warpigs in Copenhagen and Covenhoven in Brooklyn, N.Y. TIP FOR GETTING TOASTED: Middleton says the world of craft beer can be a bit of a minefield; he recommends sticking to the style of beer you like. Still, you can experiment with sours and exotic combinations when you fancy a change and feel brave. ONE FOR THE ROAD: This craft brewer is partial to craft whiskey too. “I love the development of all things produced in small batches by Scottish artisan producers—Scottish malt whiskey, gins with interesting botanicals—and I love a bit of Pinot Noir,” Middleton says.
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SPIRITS
Stephan Berg The Bitter Truth, Munich BOOZY BACKSTORY: Disappointed with the available selection of what he calls the unsung ingredient of the dandy drink scene, this former Munich bartender handmade his own bitters for years. Then, in 2006, Stephan Berg cofounded The Bitter Truth. Today, his distillery is credited with revolutionizing the cocktail scene with uncommonly good bitter flavors. WHAT HE IS KNOWN FOR: Being the godfather of the German bitters milieu (yes, such a milieu exists). FAVORITE WATERING HOLES: American Bar at The Savoy in London (shown above left), says Berg, has “a great team, great hospitality and more than 100 years of history.” Others include Dante in New York, Williams & Graham in Denver and Lobster Bar in Hong Kong. TIP FOR GETTING TOASTED: Make the most of your travels by checking out local mixology touches. “Trends still veer toward very classic-style drinks, but local ingredients play into the modern bar scene,” Berg says. ONE FOR THE ROAD: Ex-bartender Berg seeks out the rock stars in his former profession. That’s why you’ll find him sipping highballs at one eponymous Munich tavern—“a melting pot of locals, artists and fashionistas all held together by Charles Schumann. It has warm hospitality, fantastic drinks and even better food.” FALL/WINTER 2018
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Jared Brown Sipsmith Gin Distillery, London
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BOOZY BACKSTORY: Among firewater aficionados, Jared Brown is known as a respected cocktail historian, European bon viveur and master distiller at Sipsmith, London’s first gin micro-distillery in more than two centuries. But this man who— along with Sipsmith co-founders Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall—is credited with igniting a full-blown British gin craze is actually a Yankee, originally from Upstate New York. BEST KNOWN FOR: Reflecting the spirit of old England by making gin the oldfashioned way—in one shot (meaning the botanicals are steeped in the fermented sugar water or a neutral spirit like tea), in a copper pot and in small batches. FAVORITE WATERING HOLES: Tops is El Floridita in Havana. Brown says he and his wife, fellow spirits expert Anistatia Miller, asked the El Floridita bartender to make them whatever he was in the mood to mix. He poured the couple their very first Jai Alai, a cocktail made of gin and sweet vermouth topped with soda and a lemon wedge. “It is a wonderful drink that actually predates the Negroni,” says Brown. He also enjoys bellying up to the bar at The Drifter, a Prohibition-era speakeasy with eccentric nightly entertainment and a tarot card-inspired cocktail menu tucked away in the basement of The Green Door Tavern in Chicago; the Paradiso, a modern-day speakeasy reached through a refrigerator door in a pastrami shop in Barcelona; and The Kingham Plough, a favorite hometown pub in The Cotswolds, England. TIP FOR GETTING TOASTED: “When I go into a bar, the first thing I look for is the greeting,” Brown says. “It tells me how the service is going to be.” ONE FOR THE ROAD: When Brown was a broke college student living in New York City, he’d walk 50 blocks to school to save his subway money for food and one luxury: a monthly martini at the Ty Bar in the Four Seasons Hotel (shown above left). “I would be treated with as much respect as the billionaires,” he recalls.
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ROOM KEY
Secret Virgin
Crave a Caribbean getaway that isn’t a cliché? Try beautiful Scrub Island in the B.V.I., which has welcomed visitors just since 2010. By Rita Guarna
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reaking away from the typical island vacation spots isn’t easy. Too often travelers seeking an escape from the winter blues don’t get past “B” in their mental rolodexes before settling on a destination: Aruba, Bahamas, Barbados, Bermuda. Happily, I made my way to “S”—for Scrub Island. Located 74 miles east of Puerto Rico, this private island is one of 60 isles that make up the British Virgin Islands in the Lesser Antilles chain. Formed by volcanic action, it comprises two bulges of land— 170-acre Big Scrub and 60-acre Little Scrub—connected by an isthmus, and it’s about a mile from better-known Tortola. Sure, I’d visited those three saints in the U.S. Virgins: St. Thomas, St. Croix and St. John, but I’d not made my way to the British islands, and Scrub seemed to offer a bit more cachet, if only because lots of people have never heard of it. Scrub Island’s earliest inhabitants are said to have arrived in boats from South America 5,000 years ago. Christopher Columbus found it, along with the other Lesser Antilles, during his second voyage. Legend has it that sailors decided it was the perfect spot to scrub barnacles off their ships’ hulls, hence the name. (The Virgin Islands themselves reputedly draw their name from a group of virgins—some accounts say 11,000—who traveled with Saint Ursula from Britain to Germany and were martyred for refusing to marry or otherwise bond with invading Huns.) The Brits took control in 1672, but it wasn’t until 2010—when Scrub Island Resort Spa & Marina opened its doors—that the isle found its place on the tourist map. A luxury, AAA Four Diamond hotel, the resort is tucked into a rugged cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Caribbean Sea and neighboring islands. It features 26 guest rooms and 26 suites, all with bamboo ceiling fans, teak furniture, private patios or balconies plus lush 300-thread-count Fili D’oro sheets with soft down bedding and L’Occitane products. There’s also a collection of two-, three-, four- and six-bedroom hillside villas, the intimate
Ixora Spa, world-class eateries including the popular Caravela Restaurant & Bar, three private beaches and a 55-slip marina. While the Scrub Island resort is a bit tricky to get to, it’s worth it; it’s a welcome dollop of summer renewal for Northerners fleeing winter’s arctic chill. Most people fly into Tortola and catch Scrub Island’s ferry shuttle from Beef Island Airport. An alternative is to fly into St. Thomas, from which you can book a private boat or take a ferry. If your idea of a vacation is minimal activity and endless repose, this is the place for you. All the better if you’d like to aid a recently battered local economy. Hurricane Irma had its way with Scrub Island in September 2017, and its 185-mph winds left a path of destruction. The resort had to withdraw the welcome mat; it partially opened this spring after a massive renovation. This September its comeback was complete. With relaxation in mind, we chose to embrace the resort’s extensive menus of spa and wellness programs. At Ixora, the services are seemingly endless: from facials and aromatherapy to deep-tissue massage to volcanic clay body wraps. There are prenatal massages and sensuous couples’ massages as well as group yoga and customized reinvigorating treatments. If none of these sound appealing, well, you probably need a massage more than you’re willing to admit! All that kneading and rolling can be draining, though—we decided to celebrate our blissful state with some serious beach relaxation. Here one can blithely soak up the sun at North Beach (one of three beaches on the isle) in a chaise longue set atop a platform surrounded by lush foliage and unobstructed views of the crystal clear Caribbean. (Accompanied by a special someone? Make arrangements for a romantic dinner on the beach.) Don’t be misled: There are plenty of options for travelers hoping to fight the seductive lure of rum-induced inertia. Once you’re fully relaxed,
consider checking out the resort’s marina at Pavilion Beach, where there are kayaks, paddle boards, snorkeling and a water trampoline for kids and the young at heart. It’s also the departure point for dive trips, snorkel tours and fishing excursions (proximity to the North Drop makes it ideal for catching tuna and blue marlin). Or visit the sailing school to brush up on nautical skills. (Two-hour lessons are available but should be booked in advance.) Popular too are guided charters that ferry guests to some of the more than 50 neighboring islands, including Norman, Virgin Gorda and Anegada. Of course, you can always just gawk at the bevy of beauties docked there. The marina has 55 deep-water slips, including five for mega-yachts up to 160 feet. For landlubbers, several natural trails lead to majestic mountain peaks with breathtaking views of the Caribbean and neighboring islands. All that exercise is sure to make you hungry. You’ll find casual fare at the One Shoe Beach Bar & Grill (after perhaps a drink in the pool from the swim-up bar at Tierra! Tierra!). And fine dining is the order of the day at the Caravela, with plenty of fish on the menu, including grouper, mahi-mahi and snapper. When you’re ready for a break from seafood, try the Jerk Chicken Breast with pineapple salsa. And if you’re a fruit lover, you’ll enjoy myriad offerings including mango, pineapple, guava, papaya, passion fruit, sugar apple and the tropical soursop. Then there’s that candelight dinner on the beach, which features spiny Caribbean lobster with a tenderloin of beef, herb-roasted potatoes and steamed broccoli. Of course, visiting an unspoiled island paradise that isn’t yet on everyone’s list may engender a certain protective attitude. Silently spinning that mental rolodex, you may wish to keep mum about Scrub Island when neighbors back home question you enviously about where you’ve been. “Away,” you may say with a mysterious smile.
Scrub Island Resort’s Ixora Spa, moved to The Passage House villa, will roll out a new menu of spa treatments. While there, guests can use one of the multiple treatment rooms, the private pool or a beachfront cabana. Other improvements to the resort include an upgraded Wi-Fi network, the expanded North Beach, a refinished infinity pool and its bar and a renovated 55-slip marina. Scrub Island Resort also provides a 24-hour fitness room and water sports at Pavilion Beach.
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THE BULLPEN
ADVICE FROM THE
STYLE PROS
The staff at Syd Jerome is dedicated, expert and, not incidentally, a hell-of-anice-group of guys who make shopping for menswear fun. To help you get to know the staff better, we asked them a few questions about their everyday lives. Check out their answers, then stop by the store to chat with them in person. The guys—along with Scott Shapiro, of course—are ready to serve you.
JUAN FARFAN
BILLY CAVADA
GARY PALAY
WILLIE JUAREZ
PATRICK KATEN
V-neck or crew neck sweater? V-neck.
V-neck or crew neck sweater? V-neck is still my favorite. It looks great when you layer it over a shirt and with a sportcoat or just wear it with a T-shirt.
V-neck or crew neck sweater? A high V-neck looks great layered under a sportcoat with an open shirt or under a suit with a tie.
V-neck or crew neck sweater? Crew neck.
V-neck or crew neck sweater? V-neck.
What’s your favorite cold-weather fabric? Cashmere.
What’s your favorite cold-weather fabric? Cashmere.
Tell us about the shoes and boots we MUST have for fall and winter. Boots or shoes with rubber soles help with the ice or snow.
Tell us about the shoes and boots we MUST have for fall and winter. Boot with heavy lug bottom.
What’s your favorite cold-weather fabric? Wool. Tell us about the shoes and boots we MUST have for fall and winter. Chukka boot from Ferragamo. What song would folks be surprised to hear on your iPhone? Carrie Underwood, “How Great Thou Art.” Guilty pleasure TV show? House of Cards. Best part about living in Chicago? Working downtown and the Magnificent Mile.
What’s your favorite cold-weather fabric? Wool, of course! So many options. Tell us about the shoes and boots we MUST have for fall and winter. I love our collection of Swims boots and shoes. The waterproof technology and look are a must-have for the fall/winter season. What song would folks be surprised to hear on your iPhone? “Take On Me” by A-ha.
How long have you worked at Syd Jerome? 24 years.
Guilty pleasure TV show? I don’t watch much TV these days but sometimes I’ll get caught watching Bravo’s Watch What Happens Live.
What’s been your craziest customer request? Someone once asked for a discount.
Best part about living in Chicago? The food and energy of a big city. So much to do!
Tell us about the shoes and boots we MUST have for fall and winter. Really any shoe that has a rubber bottom. It’s better on the ice than leather. What song would folks be surprised to hear on your iPhone? Sammy Davis Jr. singing “Birth of the Blues.” Guilty pleasure TV show? The Big Bang Theory. My wife likes to call me Sheldon once in a while, and at times, it’s appropriate. Best part about living in Chicago? The variety of entertainment options, from restaurants and concerts to our great museums, the architectural boat tours, etc.
What song would folks be surprised to hear on your iPhone? “Wham!” by George Michael. Guilty pleasure TV show? The Blacklist. Best part about living in Chicago? The best part is that you get four beautiful seasons and no hurricanes. How long have you worked at Syd Jerome? 12 years. What’s been your craziest customer request? One customer bought a suit only to have the pants shortened and made into shorts.
What song would folks be surprised to hear on your iPhone? Nothing comes to mind. Guilty pleasure TV show? Don’t have one. Best part about living in Chicago? The neighborhoods. How long have you worked at Syd Jerome? 26 years. What’s been your craziest customer request? One customer asked me to get him a date.
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How long have you worked at Syd Jerome? 19 years and counting.
What’s your favorite cold-weather fabric? Loro Piana storm system. Great fabric, soft and resistant to all kinds of weather.
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NICOLA
SANTARELLI Since 1915
Handmade in Italy
Artisans of handmade luxury-tailoring.
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GROOMING
Charcoal’s Hot!
It’s gritty. It’s grimy. And it may be just what you need to remove impurities from your skin, hair and teeth.
| SYD JEROME
H
ere’s the kind of “facial” a guy can face: Charcoal, known for the briquets with which you barbecue and the sticks artists use for sketching, is being boosted these days as a skin-saving health and beauty treatment. Charcoal that’s “activated”—that is, heated with oxygen added—is said to absorb up to 200 times its weight in impurities, and that has inspired a craze several Hollywood celebs have embraced. Many spas, for example, offer a treatment that incorporates crushed black charcoal in a soft powder mask. It employs a black, pudding-like substance that is applied to the face with a brush and left there for 15 or 20 minutes. It is believed to remove toxins, unclog pores, clean out blackheads, peel away dead skin cells and leave you feeling super refreshed. Scientific proof of the efficacy of this stuff? So far,
it’s more or less in the spirit of Tug McGraw of the ’73 New York Mets, who said, “You gotta believe.” But dermatologists seem to agree that it does no real harm, and media folk who’ve tried it report they did come out feeling rejuvenated. There are medical precedents of a kind, as emergency room doctors sometimes administer a charcoal paste for certain types of overdoses, relying on the porous charcoal to trap toxins and keep the body from absorbing them. And some studies have shown that activated charcoal supplements may help reduce indigestion and intestinal gas. Fans of charcoal’s “beauty” benefits praise the cleaning and exfoliation effects of charcoal masks, and of course—this being the age of specialization—there are different treatments with different emphases: a mask aimed primarily at absorbing oil,
for example, another that’s all about optimal skin texture and a third that’s a big-time acne cop. (If you have facial hair, you’ll want to exempt those zones of the face.) And the treatments require no downtime afterwards. Does the hot trend stop with the skin? You know it doesn’t. Some blogs insist that sprinkling a bit of black charcoal powder on your toothbrush before you brush can actually make teeth whiter. There are charcoal-fueled shampoos for shimmering hair, deodorants to banish B.O., and carbon peels to reduce disfiguring spots of pigmentation. (You’ll need to consult a dermatologist here.) Is charcoal worth the fuss? They say “beauty”— or rugged handsomeness—is only skin deep. But after all, it’s your skin—and hair and teeth—that people see.
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