raleigh f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 15
fall FASHIONS st. barts getaway
indy’s ULTIMATE STYLE GUIDE
miles davis bentley’s mulsanne the best chili f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 15
meet mulsanne: bentley’s new speedster say oui to st. barts’ cheval blanc eton: swedish design, born in the usa RAL.fw15.coverFIN.indd 1
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Invitation to Style
What makes a visit to Raleigh so unforgettable? Three loyal customers happily share their experiences. 25
Luxury, Meet Power
‘A’ is for autumn, action, acquisitions... 6
The Raleigh Guide
Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car. 36
Winter blues be gone...life-changing underwear...a new way with whiskey...gadgets you’ll go for... and more 11
Essentials for Men
Go ahead, do a double take: Yes, you look that good. Is it unfair to all the other guys? Probably! 40
Some Like It Hot
Once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “Texas Red.” 52
Simply Scandinavian The Eton story actually begins in the USA—with the finest cotton from California’s San Joaquin County. 58
Here’s a cheat sheet on the basics you’ll need to make the grade this season. 18 ICON
For the Picasso of jazz nothing was incidental—not the notes he played on the trumpet or the absence of buttons on his sportcoat sleeves. 32
A sip of calvados between courses can take a meal from good to great. 55
Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. 60
Your guide to the Raleigh experience. 62
Look Good, Keep Well
Tips and stats on caffeine, mood boosters, cosmetic surgery and such. 64
ON THE COVER: Tan suede vest and brown sportcoat by Eleventy, check sport shirt by Paul & Shark, striped tie by Italo Ferretti and jeans by Raleigh.
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Nature does nothing in vain — ARISTOTLE —
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invitation to style
‘A’ is for autumn, action, acquisitions... sneak peeks
utumn calls for action. Come September, I still feel that same inner pull I felt as a kid—the sense that I should be going back to school. Never mind that my student days are long gone. I feel I should be going…somewhere. The golf course would be nice. Or a bike trail. If you’re like me, you just want to be outdoors. Get out and stay out, I say! Fall is also the season to acquire things. If you’re a farmer or gardener, you’re bringing in the harvest. I wish you a bumper crop. If you’re a hunter, rejoice that duck season is coming, with deer season close behind (to say nothing of pheasant, quail and turkey seasons). May you reach the legal limit. And if you’re a man about town—and I know you are— fall is the time to load up on wardrobe essentials for the cooler weather. Your source? Raleigh Limited, of course, where the season’s themes are comfort and luxury. Here you’ll find butter-soft cashmere jackets, garmentwashed wools and knitted fabrics, all offering sophisticated style in a great choice of colors. Our selection of denim is bigger than ever, from the softest washed denim to raw denim for the purist. We offer top brands in a range of fits to suit all body types. You’ll find men’s outerwear—women’s too!—from Canada Goose. Arctic explorers wear Canada Goose coats for
guaranteed warmth; rugged good looks are just a bonus. These coats proved a huge hit with our customers last year, so we’ve brought them back in an expanded range of styles. Gimo’s, one of our perennial favorite designer brands from Italy, is back as well, with stylish leather and woolen outerwear for men and women. You’ll also want to check out Eleventy, a new Italian line that’s modern, sophisticated and affordable. When it comes to tailored clothing, the hottest trend among our customers is Made-to-Measure, which lets you personalize a garment to make it truly your own. Join us for one of our upcoming Made-to-Measure events, where you can also special-order any item from a designer’s collection. We’ll be hosting events for the best of Italy, including Ermenegildo Zegna, Isaia, Boglioli, Gimo’s (women’s collection also) and Brunello Cucinelli (women’s collection also), as well as events for two famous North American clothiers with classic styling, Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman. See page 12 for details. Enjoy the bountiful season, and do come see us soon at the store. Mark Koplow
raleigh limited menswear t h e fa s h i o n m a l l k e y s t o n e at t h e c r o s s i n g 317.844.1148 r a l e i g h l i m i t e d. c o m
Store Hours M o n day t o s at u r day: 1 0 a . m . t o 9 p. m .
s u n day: N o o n t o 6 p. m . Editorial Director cindi koplow Editor Mark Dowden Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Michael Hiller, maria lissandrello, Francesca Moisin, Luca Sumberac Contributing Photographers Thomas Mueller, DaNiel Springston Publishing staff
Publisher Shae Marcus Associate Publisher Jodi Bruker Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim
Production/Art Assistant Alanna Giannantonio Accounting amanda albano, agnes alves, Megan Frank
Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents shae marcus, Carl olsen Vice Presidents Rita Guarna, christine hamel
r a l e i g h magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Raleigh Limited Menswear. Copyright © 2015 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. E d i to r i a l C o n t r i b u ti o n s : Write to Editor, Raleigh, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email firstname.lastname@example.org. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. S u b s c r i pti o n S e r vi c e s : To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Raleigh Circulation Department, Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201-573-5541; email email@example.com A dve r ti s i n g I n q u i r i e s : Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or firstname.lastname@example.org.
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Raleigh guide the
Winter blues be gone!
years of fashion Whether you’re a hard-core fashionista or simply an admirer of beauty, you’ll enjoy Nathalie Herschdorfer’s Coming Into Fashion: A Century of Photography at Condé Nast (Prestel, $65). This celebration of fashion photography, drawn from a museum exhibition, brings together some of the finest work from that publishing house’s legendary archives and the best of New York, Paris and Milan. Via the volume’s 208 images you’ll look through the lenses of renowned photographers and witness how the art of fashion photography has evolved—and how it has reflected change in society. (Among chapter titles are “The Golden Age” and “The New Wave.”) Early Vogue and Vanity Fair covers recall styles of a bygone era that feels very remote—yet also evokes a timeless elegance that speaks eloquently to us today.
Remember the winter of 2014? The snowiest in the history of Indianapolis? You never know when history is going to repeat itself. So we suggest stopping by Raleigh and picking up a pair of parkas—men’s and women’s—from Canada Goose. The luxury brand, identified by the two-inch round patch on the left sleeve and the coyote fur–trimmed hood, was founded in a small warehouse in Toronto more than 50 years ago and has been standard issue for polar expeditions for decades. Today, it’s the hottest cold-weather coat in the world, favored by celebs like Hugh Jackman, Daniel Craig and Emma Stone. Functional and stylish, the downfilled jackets are equally appropriate for hiking a snowy trail or strolling a city street. Consider the Kensington, for example, a long, slim-fitting style for women with smart military buttons and flattering waist-cinching straps. Try it on—in black—at Raleigh and experience the Canada Goose difference for yourself.
Better briefs If MBA student Trent Kitsch hadn’t gone on a fishing trip to Alaska with his dad, Saxx Underwear might never have been invented. Spending three days in a wet ocean suit had taken a toll on his private parts (constant contact with his legs), and the avid outdoorsman returned to the University of Western Ontario determined to redesign men’s underwear. The result, after months of designing, testing and fine-tuning: his patented ergonomic front pouch. About that pouch: It’s engineered with no exposed stitching and no inner seam “bulk” for added comfort. And—here’s the cool part—innovative, mega-thin mesh panels surround the pouch, keeping everything in its place and preventing unwanted friction and movement. Saxx calls its underwear “life changing.” We agree.
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Raleigh guide the
Keep up with the latest Raleigh news on Facebook (facebook.com/raleighlimited) and Instagram (@raleighlimited).
Upcoming trunk shows
In fashion retailing days of yore, manufacturers’ reps would visit stores with trunks filled with their latest offerings, and store owners would select what they thought their customers would go for. Today, most of our merchandise is selected from designers’ showrooms, but the trunk show has taken on a life of its own. During these special showings, you’ll have an opportunity to browse the entire range of a designer’s line. Here are some of the trunk shows coming up this fall. HICKEY FREEMAN Wednesday, October 7 BOGLIOLI Friday & Saturday, October 9 & 10 salvatore Ferragamo shoes, Samuelsohn & Gimo’s (men’s and women’s) Friday & Saturday, October 16 & 17
A new way with whiskey
If you’re still drinking your whiskey “straight,” it’s time to mix it up. Literally. The world’s most masculine beverage has made its way onto mixed-drinks menus across the country. “Whiskey’s pleasures are diverse and delicious,” notes Warren Bobrow, author of Whiskey Cocktails. “And much to the surprise of traditionalists, it’s a versatile spirit that’s extremely adaptable when it comes to mixology.” Here, we present Bobrow’s Robert Burns Cocktail, a tipple that honors Scotland’s most famous poet. Every sip is pure elegance, whether it’s served straight up or in a martini glass with a flamed orange zest twist. That said, if you’re a “wee tim’rous beastie,” as Burns himself wrote, steer clear: This cocktail is not for the faint of heart. If you can handle it, though, it’s a truly luxurious way to start an autumn evening. The Robert Burns Cocktail n 2 oz. Scotch whisky n ¾ oz. Italian vermouth, such as Carpano Antica n Dash of orange bitters n Dash of absinthe n Orange zest twist (optional) Fill a cocktail shaker three-quarters with ice. Pour all the liquid ingredients over the ice. Stir gently to combine. Strain this into a martini glass. Singe the orange zest by holding it firmly behind a lit match and pinching it to release its natural citrus oils. (Be careful to spritz the citrus oils into the glass.)
Dive into the spirit world
Did you know that actor Dan Aykroyd markets a vodka in bottles shaped like a skull? That’s one of the things you’ll learn in a new book, Distilled, from Absinthe & Brandy to Vodka & Whisky, the World’s Finest Artisan Spirits Unearthed, Explained & Enjoyed (Mitchell Beazley, $19.99). Authors Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley report on a dramatic transformation that’s under way, with crafty craft distillers like Aykroyd—they call them “mavericks”—creating innovative spirits that exude unique personality and character. The authors have scoured the globe for the best in this burgeoning field. They start you out with the basics—how a distiller creates a product and how you can best sample it. Then they suggest new and classic brands they call “hidden gems.” Throughout, their passion for their subject matter is contagious. If you’re a casual drinker, this volume can add richly to your enjoyment. And if you’re a virtuoso, even you will gain a greater understanding and appreciation of the emerging universe of artisan spirits.
Ask Mr. Etiquette mark koplow explains how to sail through life without giving offense. I was always told to put my napkin in my lap the moment I sit down at a dinner party. My wife says no, I should wait for the host to do so first. Who’s right? —Stumped in Speedway Score one for the Mrs. The rule is to touch nothing on the tabletop (including beverages) until your host picks up his or her napkin. Worse than a premature napkin grab is the gaffe that often occurs moments beforehand: No one should sit down until every guest—and the host—is standing beside his or her chair. Sit from the left to avoid a hip check.
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Raleigh guide the
Putting the “cas” in cashmere
The A-Z List Raleigh Limited Menswear features dozens of the world’s finest designer brands under one roof. See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love. Alberto Allegri Boglioli Bosca British Apparel Collection Brunello Cucinelli Calzificio Italiano Canada Goose Canali Carrot & Gibbs Circolo/Triluxe Codice Comstock Corneliani Culturata David Donahue Di Bello Di Maestro Donald J Pliner Eleventy Ermenegildo Zegna Eton Etro Eyebobs Gimo’s Gran Sasso Hickey Freeman Hiltl Hilts Willard Hugo Boss Incotex Isaia Jake Agave JKT/Triluxe
Kinross Cashmere Lubiam Magnanni Massimo Alba Meyer MMX Mezlan Pantherella USA Paul & Shark Paul Betenly Peter Millar Psycho Bunny PT01 salvatore ferragamo Sand Santo Stefano Sartore Seavees Sebastien James Stenstrom TM Fashion/ Handstich Trapper Leathers Vince W. Kleinberg Waterville/Triluxe Wigens Wolverine Zanella
ermenegildo zegna donald j pliner
What’s light as a feather and soft as a cloud but chic enough to make a style statement? Quinn Apparel artfully blends comfort and class into its cashmere line, which ranges from slouchy sweaters (for both men and women) to silky tops. The NYC-based company was founded by Jean Koloff, who hails from such fashion giants as Yves Saint Laurent and Burberry. Its creative director, Brooklyn-born Amy Hsiung, stretched her creative muscles at Calvin Klein and DKNY, to name a few. Together, these women have developed a brand that has the luxe appeal of couture with a livedin, laid-back vibe. This season, greys and denims are ruling the runways, and Quinn’s unique hand-blended colors add an exclusive element to their apparel. Complement the deep hue and soft texture of a coal mouliné or a denim mouliné top with slim-fit jeans for an on-trend look that feels oh-so cozy.
The look of Milan
You can’t count to Eleventy, but it’s a brand you can count on. Born in the fashion and design epicenter, Milan, Italy, in 2006 as a small line of polo shirts, it has expanded and gained international prominence with collections of meticulously crafted, easy-to-wear apparel. Eleventy has been likened to Brunello Cucinelli—but with prices that will leave you extra cash to gas up your Italian sports car. So the next time you’re out shopping on Milan’s Via della Spiga—or at Raleigh— give Eleventy a whirl.
Meet the artist
When he’s not photographing some of our best customers for Raleigh Stories, Thomas Mueller spends his time shooting portraits and fine art images in Indianapolis and New York City. Fifty-eight of his photographs will be on display in the Clowes Hall Lobby at Butler University from September 29 through November 1. The exhibition is divided into two groups of photographs. “Private Thoughts in Public Places” is about the universal human endeavor to read the meaning of strangers’ facial expressions and body language, while “Look at It” explores photography’s ability to make us look at ordinary things in a new way. Join us for a reception and an “artist walk” on Monday, October 5, from 6 to 7:30 p.m.
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Raleigh guide the
protect your home Rest easy about the security of your abode while you’re out. Just keep watch remotely with the Withings Home HD camera, which boasts a 135-degree field of vision and automatically detects and records movement, noise and even air-quality changes. Check the video feed on your Apple device; the camera’s automatic “zoom-in” technology lets you magnify images twelvefold with a simple spread of the fingers. $199.95
gadgets & gear Here’s a collection of cool stuff that, of course, you really don’t need, but you’ll probably want.
for the home chef You’ve probably enjoyed sous vide cooking in top restaurants—now, with the Anova Precision Cooker, it’s come home. It’s a method in which food is sealed in airtight plastic bags to hold in juices and heated in water for longer than usual cooking periods to ensure consistency—no more dried-out exterior or underdone middle. Lightweight and easy to use, this handy device syncs with your smartphone, allowing you to set time and temp for a succulent sensation. $179
stirring achievement Out in the wild, in a foreign land—wherever you want to be able to make the water safe, pull out your SteriPen Adventurer Opti. It emits ultraviolet rays when used to stir a glass of H2O. The pen quickly destroys any viruses or bacteria that may linger in the liquid, so you’re guaranteed a decontaminated drink. $89.95
handy multi-adapter Instead of juggling a bunch of different adapters when you travel internationally, try the Flight 001 4-in-1 Adapter, which conveniently combines several such tools in one colorful device, saving you time and suitcase room. $25
picture perfect Next time you try to capture a prize-winning moment, don’t let the result look “phony.” In place of a clunky camera, the Olloclip 4-in-1 Photo Lens smartens up your smartphone, producing sharper image quality. This removable lens, equivalent to that of an SLR camera, clips on to your Apple or Android phone. $69.99
for super sleep The Withings Aura features a compact sleep sensor pad that slips under your mattress and tracks your movement, breathing and heart rate—data that by sunrise is analyzed and presented in a smartphone graph, helping you pinpoint slumber problems. And a bedside device tracks sound, temperature and light levels all night long. $299.95
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School of rocks!
Hereâ€™s a cheat sheet on the basics youâ€™ll need to make the grade this season.
Get high marks in merino wool V-neck sweater vests in one of the many colors by Raleigh Limited.
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essentials Move to the head of the class in reading glasses by Eyebobs. Choose from an assortment of shapes, styles and hues.
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‘meet the jeweler’
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Silk and wool ties by Robert Talbott, Italo Ferretti and Isaia are a study in style.
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Customers don’t come to Raleigh to look
like everyone else. They want their attire to reflect not just good taste and a sense of fashion, but their personalities as well. So we honor the individuals they are—and their widely varied shopping styles too. Some have lots of innovative sartorial ideas that require only an affirming nod and a suggestion or two, which our knowledgeable staffers happily supply. Others frankly admit that they’re smart about clothes only in knowing where to come to buy them—they need more guidance, and this we provide as well. We value the relationships we’ve built with our customers over the years, and it’s clear that they reciprocate that feeling. In the pages to come, three of them speak of their experience at Raleigh.
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appreciate that Raleigh offers timeless items that aren’t out of style tomorrow. I like nice shoes, such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Donald J Pliner, and they offer those brands. Normally you’d have to go to New York or Chicago to find this type of selection, so Indianapolis is really lucky to have Raleigh. No wonder I’ve been shopping there for 25 years. Mark and Gerry always help me find what I need before a party or special event. I have a lot of faith in them. Last year, I came in looking for something for a New Year’s Eve party. Mark told me he had something that was very exclusive—an Armani sportcoat that was one-of-a-kind. It wasn’t what I was looking for at all. It was blue crushed velvet—I’m usually more drawn to earth tones and neutrals. He kept telling me, “Just try it on.” Well, I walked out of there with the jacket, and I wore it to a Christmas party that year. Raleigh is a great familyrun boutique clothier where the people will always go the extra mile for you. When meeting with clients at my business as a custom home builder, I like to show that I care about aesthetics because I think if you take an active role in your personal appearance, it shows that that’s how you run your business. I’m a perfectionist and have a good eye with my work, and I want that to come across as a first impression when clients meet me. The people at Raleigh do a fantastic job at offering great classic pieces that you won’t find on the masses.
Scott Campbell Custom Homes & Developments
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Gerald Kakasuleff Kakasuleff Farms
’ve shopped at Raleigh for 10 to 12 years. The people there really know how to pick out items that fit each person’s individual form and style. And that’s a good thing for me because I don’t know anything at all about fashion! I work as a farmer and am out in the field managing the crops during the day. But at night I like to get dressed up in nice clothes to go out with my wife, Nancy. When she and I go shopping together, the salespeople pick out what they think will work, I try it on, and Nancy gives final approval. We always have a good time—although I do miss out on a lot of the conversation she gets to have while I’m trying on all the clothes! I’ll buy some suits, but mostly long-sleeve shirts and sportcoats or a Gimo’s leather jacket. I like Boglioli as a brand. What I love is that everything in the store is unique—you won’t see everyone else wearing it. And the quality of the clothes is incredible—you can just about take a nap in them, and when you get up, they look like they’re still pressed and right off the hanger from the dry cleaner. Besides the high quality of the clothes, I keep coming back for the people. They’re really good at what they do. fall / winter 2015
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Geoff Hanover Senior Specialist for Bard Medical Targeted Temperature Management
like to think I have a pretty good sense of style, and I really enjoy mixing colors and fabrics to create an effect that’s unique to me. I try to come up with looks you don’t usually see on the street—looks that will reflect my personality and separate me from everyone else. For instance, recently at Raleigh I purchased an Isaia suit that was grey with a darker grey stripe. I added a turquoise tie and a similarcolored pocket square. The guys at the store said they’d never seen it look like that. For the fall, I usually stop by Raleigh to buy a new leather outerwear item. For instance, I really like Gimo’s Italian leatherwear—it goes with almost anything, and I appreciate that versatility. When it comes to customer service, I like that the store is both professional and fun. I see Gerry as a friend—he knows my style and what I like, and he’s open to my suggestions. Raleigh has a great European-based selection of clothes, and it almost always has what I’m looking for. If not, I can have it made there. The store’s Made-to-Measure program is very precise, which I like. I’m picky when it comes to fashion, but Raleigh does it right.
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Architectural Designer of the 2015 Dream Home
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icon Jazz trumpeter, bandleader and composer Miles Davis was an original who gave thought to every note of musicâ€”and to the distinctive sartorial notes he struck as well.
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For the Picasso of jazz, nothing was incidental— not the notes he played on the trumpet or the absence of buttons on his sportcoat sleeves. By Maria Lissandrello
f anyone knew from cool, it was Miles Davis. The legendary jazz musician got his start in the mid-1940s, moving from his native St. Louis to Manhattan to study at Juilliard—and play the trumpet with Charlie Parker, Thelonious Monk and other cats on the bebop scene in Harlem. Even as a teenager, he had a sartorial style that was well thought out. Although his Brooks Brothers suits came from the friendly neighborhood pawnshop, Davis made them his own by slitting notches in the lapels in homage to the Duke of Windsor. Nothing about his appearance—or his music—was incidental. When he raised his trumpet to his lips, he controlled every detail. Designer and fashion illustrator Joe Eula recalled the instructions the jazz great gave him for an outfit he was to wear onstage: “When we talked about the jacket, we knew it could be no more than 54 inches from one arm to the other, straight out.” It was calculated, you see, to reveal no more than an inch of Davis’ bespoke shirts and cufflinks. And when he turned his back to his audience (something he was wont to do—a statement, some said), the natural drop shoulders were perfectly orchestrated, his jackets cut to accommodate his slouchy playing posture. By the mid-’50s, the Juilliard dropout had transitioned to the Ivy League, getting his suits custom-made at Harvard Square’s Andover Shop. There, owner and jazz fan Charlie Davidson came to know his preferences: English tweed and madras jackets with a natural shoulder and narrow lapel, chinos and flannel trousers, and broadcloth shirts with button-down collars. On Davis’ feet, Bass Weejun loafers—a
choice that made other men question their own footwear. Davis became so renowned for his fashion sense (wearing “what the well-dressed man will wear next year,” said Down Beat magazine in 1960) that press releases on his upcoming gigs reported not just the musical program but his outfits too—pink seersucker jackets, skin-tight trousers, Italian-cut suits, handmade doeskin loafers, a beige pongee suit. In the 1950s and ’60s, the trumpet player and band leader emerged as one of the most famous jazz artists in the world, not just for his music but for his image too. He was the subject of a Playboy interview and became the first jazzman to appear on the cover of Rolling Stone. A pivotal point in his career came in 1959, when his band released what would become the best-selling—and most influential—jazz album of all time, Kind of Blue. Romantic, melancholic and beautifully melodic, it ushered in a new jazz style. Ever-evolving both in his music and his wardrobe, Davis rewrote the jazz rulebook in the late 1960s by incorporating electric instruments into his band, creating a looser, rock-influenced improvisational style. At first, on albums like In a Silent Way and Bitches Brew, it was dubbed “jazz-rock” or “fusion.” But when the ’70s arrived he abandoned jazz completely—and his sartorial style became as funky and avant-garde as his music. Somehow he managed to get away with wearing purple bell-bottoms, kipper ties and hexagonal glasses. It was part of the trademark swagger and confidence of Miles Davis. And yeah, he was still cool.
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power Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car. By Luca Sumberac
eauty. Class. Poise. Think of Bentley Motors, and those are some of the words that come to mind. However, what most people don’t realize is that the automotive institution also has deep roots in speed, power and racing. Enter the Bentley Mulsanne, a luxurious limousine-like sedan with raw power that harks back to Bentley’s rich history of automotive excellence. It’s no coincidence that the vehicle derives its name from the renowned
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Rarely if ever in automotive history has such an agile dynamo also offered such regal comfort.
This page: The Mulsanne brings unmistakable grandeur to the road, with zesty performance ing down the Autobahn at speeds straightaway on the legendary Circuit that belies its aristocratic luxury. Its handcrafted interior reflects meticulous craftsmanship—in well over 100 mph. de La Sarthe, home to one of the most one option, Apple iPad workstations with Internet access are integrated into retractable “picThe exterior features the iconic races in auto sports—24 Hours nic tables” in the rear cabin. Opposite, from top: an optional classic “flying B” hood ornament, a 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine and a wheel crafted from a single piece of aluminum. unmistakable Bentley headlights, of Le Mans. A race, by the way, that a beautiful polished stainless steel Bentley has won six times. Even more grille and unique 20˝ alloy wheels (21˝ alloys available as an upgrade). Want impressive? Bentley ranks fifth in the total number of Le Mans wins, placing to ensure your Mulsanne’s uniqueness? How about some customization? behind Jaguar, Audi, Ferrari and Porsche. Spring for the exterior accoutrements available with the Mulliner Driving Let’s be clear. The Mulsanne is not a supercar; it’s not even a sports Specification option, which adds “Flying B” wing vents and the iconic “Flycar. It’s something more. It melds the best of luxury, comfort and perforing B” radiator mascot. Still not enough? With more than 100 exterior paint mance cues and wraps them up in one of the classiest bows on the market. colors, 24 interior hide colors or a bespoke option in which you’ll work with Spy the Mulsanne (consider yourself lucky if you do) and you’re instantly Bentley to create a custom color scheme, there are plenty of combinations struck by its contours—the elegant yet powerful lines emanate regalness. that will make your Mulsanne like no other—crucial if you plan on pulling And like the most stately of kings, it commands attention. After all, it’s up to a swanky gala. big—Henry VIII big. At just over 18 feet long and almost 6,000 pounds, So what powers this three-ton piece of art? Credit goes to a 6.75-liter, it’s the type of car you’d imagine seeing on Rodeo Drive shepherding twin-turbo V8 that produces 505 bhp and 752 lb. ft of torque. All that power sheiks, earls, viscounts and baronesses on extravagant shopping trips, or means the Mulsanne is capable of going from 0 to 60 in 5.1 seconds and can chauffeuring Hollywood royalty during a weekend getaway in Monaco. reach a top speed of 184 mph! Those are impressive numbers for a car that And herein lies its genius: It’s also easy to imagine the Mulsanne scream-
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weighs more than a Chevy Suburban. And inside? Whether you’ll be enjoying the Mulsanne in the driver’s seat, riding shotgun or taking up the rear, you’ll be greeted by an interior second to none. For starters, it’s dripping in leather—16 cowhides, to be precise, carefully curated to avoid any defects. Complementing the leather is one continuous veneer that wraps around the entire interior. Take your pick of Burr Walnut, Dark Stained Burr Walnut or Piano Black. If those options don’t catch your eye, you’ll be able to choose from eight other veneers. There are plenty of amenities on board—12v sockets, 14 speakers standard (audiophiles may want to upgrade to the 20-speaker Naim system) and programmable settings to adjust for different drivers. Oh, and let’s not forget the option of adding a frosted-glass bottle cooler with accompanying champagne flutes (ideal for those who prefer to be chauffeured)! At the end of the day, the Mulsanne won’t break any track records, it doesn’t get great gas mileage (11 mpg city/18 mpg highway) and its poster might not adorn the walls of 12-year-old car lovers. But none of that matters. It doesn’t need blistering speed. It doesn’t need exotic looks. It’s built for enjoyment of a higher class. The Mulsanne stands out without even trying—and that’s what makes this car so special.
The Mulsanne at a Glance
base price $306,425
Weight 5,919 lbs.
Dimensions length 18 feet, 3 inches, wheelbase 10 feet, 8 inches
Engine 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 with cam phasing and variable displacement
Gearbox 8-speed automatic
Suspension Air springs with continuous damping control; four driver-selectable settings
Output 505 bhp @ 4200 rpm, 752 lb.-ft. torque @ 1750 rpm
Top speed 184 mph
0 to 60 mph in 5.1 seconds
Weight-to-power ratio 11.8 lbs./HP
Closest competitor Rolls Royce Ghost Series II
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Go ahead, do a double take: Yes, you look that good. Is it unfair to all the other guys? Probably! Photography by Daniel Springston
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This page, plaid sportcoat and sport shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, brown tie by Isaia and charcoal trousers by Incotex. Brown lace-ups by Magnanni. Opposite, tan suede vest and brown sportcoat by Eleventy, check sport shirt by Paul & Shark, striped tie by Italo Ferretti and jeans by Raleigh.
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This page, black down vest by Canada Goose, shawl-collar sweater by Peter Millar, plaid sport shirt by Eton and pants by Meyer. Black lace-up boots by Wolverine. Opposite, plaid sportcoat by Canali, quarter-zip sweater by Robert Graham, burgundy jeans by Incotex and scarf by Etro.
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This page, grey windowpane suit by Samuelsohn, dress shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna and burgundy tie by Isaia. Opposite, blue windowpane peak-lapel suit by Canali, dress shirt by Stenstroms and wool paisley tie by Robert Talbott. Black loafers by Magnanni.
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This page, unconstructed burgundy jacket by Boglioli, plaid sport shirt by Culturata and jeans by Hiltl. Tan lace-up demi boots by Salvatore Ferragamo. Opposite, grey hooded sweater by Vince and black jeans by Rag & Bone. Black suede lace-ups by Rag & Bone.
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This page, check sportcoat and sport shirt by Etro, olive trousers by Incotex. Opposite, sweater jacket and plaid sport shirt by Paul & Shark, brown pants by PT01. Brown pebble-grain loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo.
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the excitment of possibilities. DREAM:
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some like it
By Michael Hiller
once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “texas red.”
erlingua, Texas, population 58, isn’t much to look at—a dusty ghost town of caliche roads, prickly ocotillo and sagebrush tangles. But on the first Saturday of November each year, this patch of desert west of Big Bend National Park bustles with thousands of chili fans and hundreds of cooks who arrive to compete in the town’s world-famous Chili Appreciation Society International Chili Championship. Almost overnight, the air fills with the scent of wood smoke, too much beer and simmering pots of Texas red. It’s a rowdy crowd that shares a love for country music, the Lone Star State and chili con carne, a spicy dish born on the cattle trails near San Antonio whose primary ingredients are red chiles and meat. Every other ingredient, from tomatoes to onions to seasonings, is subject to intense debate. But on one thing every Texas chili-head agrees: Real chili contains no beans. Use beans in your chili at this cook-off and you’ll be instantly disqualified. Frank Tolbert, a journalist and historian who was considered the state’s leading authority on chili until his death in 1984,
regarded beans as heretical. “Heaven help us one and all,” he wrote in response to a Yankee cook who espoused a beany recipe. “You might as well throw in some puffed rice, or a handful of shredded alfalfa, or a few maraschino cherries!” A line from the Terlingua Chili Cook-Off ’s anthem says: “If you know beans about chili, you know that chili has no beans.” Texans are no more bashful about chili than about anything else. “Chili concocted outside of Texas is a weak, apologetic imitation of the real thing,” insisted Lyndon Johnson. In 1977, the legislature proclaimed chili the “state dish,” declaring, “The only real ‘bowl of red’ is that prepared by Texans.” Of course, not everyone agrees. Nontraditionalists across the U.S. not only dare to include beans, but also like to put their own spin on this classic, adding turkey, pork, even spaghetti to their chili pots. Some say those dishes are more properly called stews or soups or casseroles. And some call them delicious. But in Terlingua, they won’t call them chili.
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A sip of calvados between courses can take a meal from good to great. By Virginie Boone
he dinner is splendid, but its many fine flavors are starting to confuse your taste buds. That’s the moment for what the French call le trou Normand (literally, “the Norman hole”). It’s a traditional break in an elaborate meal to cleanse the palate, aid digestion and prepare for the next course. And it usually features calvados, the world’s pre-eminent apple brandy. Calvados has been made by the Normans in northern France for at least 400 years. At one time, it is said, some farmers paid their rent with barrels of the fermenting cider from which the brandy is made. But it was only in 1942 that calvados was given an officially protected name in France’s system of AOCs (appellations d’origine controlees), geographically protected zones linked to specific wines and other agricultural products.
Taking a break to sip an apple brandy like Château du Breuil Calvados from the heart of Normandy reawakens the taste buds, restores the appetite and prepares you for maximum enjoyment as the dinner proceeds.
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spirits Clockwise from top left: Apples give calvados its distinctive flavor; the brandy shares its name with a geographical “department” in Normandy: the Château de Falaise in the Calvados region is more than a thousand years old; barrels of calvados produced by Boulard await shipment.
There are actually three specific AOCs known for calvados. But the heart of this brandy’s homeland is one called Pays d’Auge. That’s where, around 1960, Christian Drouin Sr. bought a farmhouse surrounded by apple trees. He hoped to supplement his income by selling the fruit, but prices at the time weren’t compelling enough. Yet Drouin’s friend Pierre Pivet, a native of the area, happened to have a mobile still and was in the habit of visiting farms to help farmers distill cider. He suggested Drouin give it a go. He did, stocking away much of what he made within his cellar until 1979, when his son Christian Drouin Jr. figured it might make sense to actually sell a bit of the stuff. It turned out to be exquisite. The family was soon offering the world single-vintage bottlings of calvados, igniting a wave of new interest in the spirit, especially among Michelinstarred chefs. Christian Drouin’s namesake firm continues to have the world’s largest selection of single-vintage calvados, with each vintage representing the year of distillation, usually the calendar year after harvest. And Drouin still farms its original roughly 50-acre orchard in the town of Gonneville-sur-Honfleur, as
well as a second property known as Domaine Coeur de Lion in Coudray-Rabut, which tourists can visit. These properties provide roughly half of the apples required yearly to make Christian Drouin brandy. The other half are sourced from nearby longtime growing partners, all of whom subscribe to diversity, growing apples in four categories: sweet, bittersweet, bitter and acidic. When they’re ready to harvest, apples are shaken gently out of trees, to be gathered from the ground by hand. Ripening varies among the types of apples, beginning in late summer and extending through the winter. Farmers store the earlier-ripening varieties so that the distillers have all four kinds at their disposal once they’re ready to press the apples into cider. And pears are sometimes included in the mix as well. Often the cider is pressed at the farm in order to take advantage of the wild yeasts that are present for fermentation, then double pot-distilled and aged a minimum of two years in used sherry, port or oak casks. How do you know when this timehonored Gallic palate-cleanser has done its job? Suddenly, you’re absolutely ready for the next course.
five to try Calvados Roger Groult Réserve 3 Year Old Calvados Run today by a member of the fifth generation of the Groult family, JeanRoger, this producer in the heart of the Pays d’Auge farms about 57 acres planted with some 5,600 apple trees. One of its signature processes is double-distillation over a wood fire. It then ages its calvados in 100-year-old oak casks. This reserve-level calvados was named “world’s best” at the 2014 World Drinks Awards; it’s meant to be a pure expression of the fruit, enjoyed as an aperitif or within a cocktail, a combination of crisp green apple and caramel-vanilla. It’s also made in eightyear-old and 12-year-old versions.
Christian Drouin Fine Pays d’Auge Calvados Made in the Pays d’Auge by Guillaume Drouin, grandson of Christian Drouin Sr., this is the youngest of the producer’s appellation calvados, aged a minimum of three years. It possesses intriguing amounts of body and depth around classic notes of white flowers, caramel, vanilla and apple.
Christian Drouin Pommeau de Normandie A combination of three-quarters apple juice and one-quarter calvados, Pommeau is aged three to four years in oak and is lighter in alcohol than a typical straight-up calvados, at 17 percent instead of the more common 40 percent. This gives it a refreshing
quality that’s ideal with food, or as an aperitif, while retaining that signature scent of baked apples and brown sugar. Served chilled in a tulip glass, it’s also a popular accent in cooking as well as a nice addition to cocktails, especially when paired with champagne or Prosecco.
Domaine Louis Dupont Calvados VSOP Aged five years in oak barrels, a quarter of them new, this is just one of many worthy calvados produced by the Dupont family, another Pays d’Auge stalwart, which traces its roots in the region to 1703. Dupont’s use of new oak is provocative as well as innovative, but the wood flavors are balanced by striking tones of vanilla, almond and licorice. This is an effective digestif, enjoyed slowly after dinner.
Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy Founded in California’s Mendocino County in 1982 by Hubert GermainRobin, a native of Cognac, and Ansley Coale, Germain-Robin uses locally grown heirloom apple varieties such as Black Twig, Wickson and Ribston Pippin for this rare American apple brandy, distilling each variety separately, then blending distillates that range in age from six to 15 years. The calvadosinspired result is then aged in French Limousin oak. It tastes exquisitely of green apple with a floral back note and just a hint of butter.
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A TOAST TO A COLORFUL FALL ‘15
W W W . P S Y C H O B U N N Y. C O M
MADE IN ITALY
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Scandinavian... but born in the USA
For incomparable Eton shirts, there are other stops along the way.
ounded by husband-and-wife team David and Annie Pettersson in the village of Gånghester, Sweden, Eton has been synonymous with quality men’s shirts since 1928—but Eton hasn’t always been its name. The original name, Shirt Factory Special, changed in 1948 following a visit by the two entrepreneurs to England. “They fell in love with Eton, a
charming English town with a storied history, and a new brand moniker was born,” says Chris Donohue, Director of Sales in North America. Today the company’s luxe shirts, ties, scarves and pocket squares are sold around the world, yet this still partly family-owned operation continues to pride itself on superior garments that take up to six months to craft.
This international story actually begins in America, as 90 percent of Eton’s extra-long staple (ELS) cotton comes from San Joaquin County in California. (The rest is grown in Egypt.) “ELS, which accounts for only 3 percent of the world’s cotton, has superior fiber qualities, such as stronger filaments and higher torsion thread, which is why we use it exclusively,” Donohue explains.
After harvest, raw fibers are shipped to Italy, where they’re spun and woven by some of the world’s most highly skilled artisans. Albini Group, located in Albino, Italy, is famous for its looming, and Eton is its largest partner. “Besides conceiving new patterns and color combinations for our shirts and ties, we also constantly invent novel weaving techniques that continuously revolutionize the market,” says Donohue.
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In Switzerland, all shirts next go through a specialized—and top-secret—finishing process, wherein scientifically trained workers actually alter the cotton’s molecular structure to make it more wrinkle-resistant. Most manufacturers try to prevent creases with a formaldehyde-based topical treatment that coats fibers, but that method has two drawbacks: Sealing cotton means it can’t “breathe,” with the result that clothes tend to trap heat, and the substance washes off after several dry-cleaning cycles. Says Donohue: “While that procedure takes four days to complete, our finish is accomplished over the course of four weeks.”
Cutting, sewing and trimming of Eton garments happen in Eastern Europe, at exclusive production facilities bordering the Black Sea. It’s an exceptionally controlled 40-step process that alone takes one month to execute. “By remaining hyper-focused on shirts, ties and other accessories, we’ve been able to perfect our manufacturing process since Eton’s earliest days,” says Donohue.
At a time when many clothing manufacturers use the quickest production methods to meet bottom-line pressures, Eton opts for the refinement that only an investment of time can provide. And while many competitors outsource some operations, again to save money, Eton owns its entire international production process. It is therefore able to control all aspects of the creation of each shirt, assuring unparalleled quality. —Francesca Moisin fall / winter 2015
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a beauty on the beach Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. By Rita Guarna
From top, Should you tire of relaxing on the beach, a tranquil pool awaits at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. Enjoy cocktails for two with a breathtaking view from this private ocean-facing perch.
f the Hotel St.-Barth Isle de France were a woman, you could say she married well. French luxury brand LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) could have its choice of lovely “mademoiselles” when searching for a suitable match in North America, but the boutique hotel on Anse des Flamands, probably the prettiest beach on the island, won out and after a year-long engagement (read: renovation), it joined the exalted Cheval Blanc family. (Other family members include Courchevel in France and Randheli in the Maldives.) Perhaps the best part of the union is that it appears that little has changed at the beloved hotel, now called the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. The staff—the hotel’s heart and soul—remains the same: affable, accommodating to a fault and decidedly French. The only difference is that now they don charming seersucker uniforms. Similar too are the guest quarters—40 suites, bungalows and villas, which feel less like hotel rooms than the bedrooms of a Provençal family. The whitewashed country furnishings have been upgraded with the brand’s signature taupe plus accents of the palest salmon-pink, which you’ll find on everything from beach towels to pillows to glassware. Thankfully, the popular daily fashion shows remain too. They feature resort wear from the hotel’s closet-sized boutique stuffed with everything from Pucci bikinis and stylish caftans to straw hats and jewelry. Don’t be surprised if the model, Roxane, looks familiar: When she’s not strolling the sandy catwalk, she’s taking your dinner order in a charmingly halting English. Oh, yes, the food. As a French territory, St. Barts not surprisingly has a cuisine that reminds you of dining in the south of France. Chef Yann Vinsot oversees a pair of excellent eateries on this property: La Case de L’Isle, featuring sophisticated FrenchCaribbean plates (plus a 150-odd selection of wines and champagnes) and the more casual La Cabane de L’Isle, site of the fashion shows. Only eight miles across, St. Barts (short for St. Barthélemy and sometimes spelled St. Barth) is a hilly (thanks to a number of volcanic peaks) speck popping out of the northeast Caribbean in the French West Indies. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493 (who named it for his brother Bartolomeo), the island was settled by the French and owned for a while by Sweden before returning to French control. It became chichi
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after the Rockefellers and Rothschilds fell for its charm in the mid-’50s. With no direct flights, getting to St. Barts isn’t easy. Some folks fly to St. Maarten and take a short flight or ferry across. A more civilized crossing (read: easier) is flying to San Juan, then boarding a tiny puddle jumper. One of Tradewind Aviation’s multiple daily flights will do nicely. Its Pilatus PC-12s are comfortable and sturdy—important features as the eight-seater threads between two jagged peaks before touching down on a teensy runway. (Flights from St. Thomas and Antigua are also available.) While the atmosphere is relaxed, folks do dress to impress while shopping or dining in the capital city, Gustavia, with its yacht-lined harbor. (The island hosts one of the world’s most thrilling yacht races, Les Voiles de St. Barth.) Luxury brands abound along with unique boutiques, often outposts of exclusive Parisian designers. Prefer to test your sea legs with a more gentle cruise? Rent a catamaran with crew for a day-long or half-day tour. Our captain, Miguel of St. Barth Sailor, anchored in the bay near Colombier, where we swam to the beach (the only one of 16 beaches not easily accessible), after which we sipped champagne and nibbled on a gourmet lunch prepared by Cheval Blanc (lest we miss the restaurants’ gastronomic delights too much). Back on terra firma, we proceeded to Bonito, where fashionistas flock to enjoy a delicious Latin American menu alongside unrivaled views of the harbor from an open-air pavilion. If your “cruise” doesn’t offer enough of a respite, the spa back at Cheval Blanc will chase away any lingering stress. It offers signature Guerlain treatments. (It’s the only Guerlain spa in the Caribbean.) Try the Solar Escape, a body massage combined with a facial, or let a beauty coach choose an indulgent experience for you. Do you think you could enjoy an island with no casinos, no all-inclusives, no cruise ships in port? An island with no poverty, no crime, no beach vendors? With unfailingly polite people, awe-inspiring vistas, white sand (or shell or stone) beaches and top-notch cuisine? I do. Clockwise from top, a private pool, one of the many amenities of the tucked-away Garden Suites; modeling the statement-making fashions available at the tony boutique; snorkeling in the blue waters of the Caribbean right in the resort’s backyard; the ultimate in luxury: a three-bedroom villa set on the white sand beach; salade niçoise, perfect for a light lunch.
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Service Directory the
Raleigh Personal Service
expertise A central part of the Raleigh Experience is superlative service in a relaxed atmosphere. If you want to browse in private, you’re more than welcome. When you need expert, individual attention, you’ll get it—instantly and for as long as you want. Our knowledgeable staff is well versed in all of the brands we carry, the trends of the season and how to fit every body type. They stand ready to advise you on all matters of wardrobe and accessories.
Delivery We understand that sometimes it’s a challenge to get to the store to pick up your alterations. Just let us know when and where, and we’ll be happy to deliver them to you.
shopping by appointment If our store hours don’t fit your schedule, call us. If you’re a morning person who finds 7 a.m. the ideal time for your Raleigh Experience, we will arrange to be here. Shopping by appointment allows us to give you the personal attention and shopping time you need, when your schedule permits.
As a family-owned business, we take a lot of pride in everything we do at Raleigh. We have the finest sales professionals that you will find anywhere, and our experienced tailoring staff works diligently to make sure that you look great. Our commitment to our customers goes beyond the sale. Service impacts every part of our business, and our goal is to constantly exceed your expectations. Here are some of the things we do to take care of you. Of course, special requests are always welcome!
made-to-measure service Our Made-to-Measure service takes advantage of the relationships we have established with Italian manufacturers to deliver a suit that is smart and sexy—and a good value—in just four to six weeks. You won’t find a better plan to look your best.
Special Orders Whether it’s a suit, sportcoat or a pair of shoes, if you can’t find what you’re looking for, just let us know. We’ll do our best to find it from one of our many resources.
tailor shop Our onsite tailor shop is at your disposal for alterations to your Raleigh purchases. We provide same-day service when necessary and can usually handle minor alterations while you wait. The same goes for emergency repairs and routine wardrobe maintenance, such as tightening loose buttons: Bring the garment in, and we’ll fix that button on the spot.
Sometimes it’s hard to part with old friends. We can help. When you shop for your new seasonal wardrobe, our sales associates will come to your home and let you know which items are worn or out of style, and suggest how to coordinate your existing clothes with new additions. We’ll even take your old clothes and donate them to a local charity on your behalf.
Like any gracious host, we always offer our guests something to drink. The Lavazza Bar is the perfect place to relax, reflect and enjoy coffee, espresso, cappuccino or a cool drink in between trips to the dressing room. Keep up with the latest scores on our flat screen. Need to charge your iPhone or iPad? No problem. We’ve got all the bases covered.
Picture This Sure, all of your new clothes look great at the store, but sometimes, once you get home, it’s hard to remember what goes with what. Just ask and we’ll be happy to photograph your ensembles.
Raleigh gift cards A Raleigh Gift Card guarantees your gift will be the perfect style, size and color. Purchase a gift card at the store in any denomination you choose for a remembrance that will dazzle any lucky recipient.
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look good, keep well
A new study found that folks who drank four or more cups of caffeinated coffee (about two Grandes at Starbucks) had a 25 percent lower risk of developing melanoma, the most dangerous form of skin cancer, over 10 years. Researchers theorize that something in the roasting process produces vitamins that may protect against UVB damage. —Journal of the National Cancer Institute
Go ahead, daydream
It might just help you multitask. Turns out daydreamers have a better working memory, which helps you retain and recall details— even in the midst of distractions.
—University of WisconsinMadison
Eat fruit, veggies first
Believe it or not, the first food you select from a buffet triggers what you’ll take next—and how much. So say researchers who studied 124 diners. Head to the salad and fruit first, and you’ll be less likely to sabotage your day’s eating. —Plos One
The only way to get a truly accurate blood pressure reading is to cuff both arms. When a person’s systolic pressure varies by 10 or more points between arms, the risk of heart attack or stroke increases 38 percent. Plus, a big difference between arms could be a sign of peripheral artery disease, or clogged arteries. —American Journal of Medicine
Spending this much time doing resistance training could improve your long-term memory by as much as 10 percent. —Acta Psychologica
The percentage increase in the number of men going to plastic surgeons for both surgical and nonsurgical procedures in 2015 thus far. —American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery
Beware the grouch
Did you know that a negative attitude can be passed along from one person to another just like the flu? Apparently, we mimic each other’s nonverbal cues, then internalize them, making them our own. Of course, we can’t always steer clear of a sourpuss, thus the best move: Do not engage. —University of Notre Dame
Beet it to low blood pressure
Drinking just one cup of beet juice every day can lower blood pressure in people with hypertension, according to recent research. Study participants’ systolic blood pressure (the top number, which measures the pressure in your arteries as your heart beats) dropped 8 points. Diastolic BP (the bottom number, which measures pressure between heartbeats) dropped 2 to 5 points. The reason? Beetroot contains high levels of nitrate, which the body converts to nitric oxide, which in turn improves blood flow and relaxes arteries. —Hypertension
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THE RT OF PERSONAL SERVICE
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Raleigh: Fall/Winter 2015