MR Magazine August 2023

AUGUST 2023 · ISSUE NO. 4 · VOL. 33

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SUMMER ON THE ROAD CATEGORY REPORTS

DESTINATION:

FASHION MR READERS’ BEST READS 2024 TRAVEL TRENDS PACKED WITH STYLE TAILORED CLOTHING STILL STRONG PARTY TOWN FUN TIMES IN CHICAGO!

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A BRAND-NEW WOMEN’S SHOW DESIGNED FOR SPECIALTY STORES LIKE YOURS

WOMEN’S EDITION SUN/MON/TUE

AUGUST 27-29, 2023 THE MART, CHICAGO

SUN/MON/TUE

OCTOBER 15-17, 2023 THE MART, CHICAGO

The Chicago Collective Women’s Edition is the carefully curated women’s apparel & accessory show, that you’ve been looking for.

CURATED COLLECTIONS

CONVENIENCE AND COMFORT

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A brand-centric show, featuring the brands you love and expect to see, plus an exciting assortment of world-class apparel and accessories that you perhaps didn’t expect.

Our entire Show is conveniently located on one single floor. Our hotels and parking facilities (and restaurants and nightlife!) are all within walking distance.

Getting together three times a year should be fun and celebrated! Get ready for special events, a grand opening party, and complimentary breakfast & lunch each day.

Learn More

chicagocollectivewomens.com #chicagocollectivewomens

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NYC: July 21st-25th Dallas: July 29th-31st Chicago: August 6th-8th CONTACT Paul R. Poole: prpoole@mac.com

https://lookbook.hiltl.de/en

WERTE TRAGEN

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CONTENTS 64

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36

Clockwise from top left: Swimwear by Paul Smith; outfit by Brunello Cucinelli; socks by Hippy Feet; jacket by Ikiré Jones; hat by Simon and Mary.

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D E PA R T M E N T S MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

6 Editor’s Letter

22 Denim

Traffic's stopped

Give me five

8 Fashion Futures

24 Hats

What's next?

On top of more than our heads

28 Chicago Fun

Maintaining momentum

36 Fashion

30 Guest Edit: Web 3.0

18 Accessories

48 The Last Word

Coming around again

Swim prints

11 Tailored Clothing

Destination: Style!

F E AT U R E S And you thought you were there for work

This is gonna get complicated

32 Guest Edit: Sustainability Just the facts

34 Brand News On the cover: Jacket by Bugatchi; crochet tank by CORRIDOR; jeans by True Religion; necklace by Miansai.

Photography by Chris Fucile. Styling by Michael Macko.

Hair by Cy Blankinship. Grooming by Marlon Steen.

Assistant Styling by Billy Teed. Model: Conrad Solaka, Soul Artist Management.

Paul & Shark transforms

46 Book Club Menswear pros share their summer reading, listening, and binging.

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Discover the New Robert Talbott roberttalbott.com

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THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM FASHION & CONTENT EDITOR JOHN RUSSEL JONES JOHN.JONES@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING EDITOR MICHAEL MACKO MICHAEL.MACKO@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITERS BRIAN TRUNZO, JUSTIN MACINERNEY, PETER GORSE, SAMANTHA LANDE CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL, TREVETT MCCANDLISS TREVETT.MCCANDLISS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR ROSEMARY O’CONNELL

ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER LIZETTE CHIN LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CHARLES GARONE CHARLES.GARONE@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGERS LAURIE GUPTILL, FERN MESHULAM, KATHY WENZLER MARKETING & PRODUCTION SPECIALIST CATHERINE ROSARIO OFFICE MANAGER PENNY BOAG ACCOUNTING KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO

ADVISORY BOARD TINA ANIVERSARIO NORDSTROM JUSTIN BERKOWITZ BLOOMINGDALE’S SAM GLASER STITCHED KARL-EDWIN GUERRE NO CHASER/GUERRISMS KATIE LIU & MICHAEL KREIMAN BLACK DOG 8 SHOWROOM ALAN LEINEN HALLS

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

STEVE PRUITT BLACKS RETAIL

WAINSCOT MEDIA CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER/VICE PRESIDENT STEVEN RESNICK SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT RITA GUARNA VICE PRESIDENTS LIZETTE CHIN, NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, NOELLE HEFFERNAN,

COLEMAN MCCARTAN, BELINDA PINA, MARIA REGAN

MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FIVE TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST, NOVEMBER) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT LIZETTE CHIN AT 201.571.2077 OR LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2023 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 33, ISSUE 4.

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MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

I RECENTLY NEEDED to replace lost eyeglasses so headed over to the LensCrafters in my local Stamford, Ct. mall, where I hadn’t been in ages. After finding a surprising number of empty parking spaces and reminding myself how to use the parking meters (space # or license plate #? cash or credit card?), I entered the mall and rode up the once-bustling escalators alone. Heading toward my destination, I wondered if perhaps the mall was officially closed, so eerily quiet were the hallways.

Arriving at my eyewear store, there were only two sellers; I sat down with the first, who according to his nameplate was the store manager. He was very nice and knowledgeable but, after much discussion, I learned that he could not guarantee I’d receive my new glasses within the week.

Wait a minute: wasn’t this the eyewear chain

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that’s always offered same-day delivery?

Yes, but no more since new machines using new technology have precluded this option for reasons I couldn’t understand.

Since I was headed out of town in a week, I left the store, stressed and disappointed.

To cheer myself up, I wandered into a few stores. I found nothing exciting and only one or two sellers per store, most playing around on their phones. About to leave, I passed a colorful window at Charlotte Russe that featured bright, teenage apparel. Although I’m many decades removed, I walked in and grabbed a bold printed swimsuit. For 15 bucks, I didn’t bother trying it on and immediately felt better. Retail therapy at work.

A conversation with my friend Fred Rosenfeld (a former menswear exec and industry analyst) led him to share the following thoughts: “People often ask me what’s changed in our business. I think the major ingredient is TRAFFIC. Once upon a time, major department stores, big box stores and malls could count on X amount of traffic. Some years more than others but always, people who wanted to buy something went to a store.

Obviously, the better the product and/or the better the value, the better the result.

But eventually, at some price, everything would sell. And these sales, coupled with vendor arrangements and/or sourcing choices, would result in profits.

“Today, in-store traffic is no longer guaranteed. With numerous on-line options, wholesale clubs, resale options and more, consumers need not frequent malls or big box stores. Consumer loyalty is gone.

What’s more, mediocre product no longer works. If today’s consumer visits a store, the offerings better be fabulous enough (in quality, style or value) to entice them to buy. No more is it enough to be just okay. That’s why literally billions of dollars’ worth of product from closed retail doors fails to show up in the stores that remain.”

So as we head out to spring 2024 trade shows, let’s keep eyes open for exceptional, enticing, irresistible product. If you don’t love it, don’t buy it! And certainly, don’t keep bringing in the same old stuff. As menswear retailer Nick Hilton once told me, “Buying from people I like is not always the best strategy, nor is not buying from people I don’t like.”

Wishing all our MR readers happy shopping, and a well-deserved summer vacation!

“CONSUMER LOYALT Y IS GONE. MEDIO CRE PRODUCT NO LONGER WORKS. NO MORE IS IT ENOUGH TO BE JUST OKAY. —FRED ROSENFELD, INDUSTRY ANALYST PHOTO BY ROSE CALLAHAN

E D I T O R᾿S L E T T E R

GOOD ENOUGH IS NO T ENOUGH!

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A DR VE I CCEA S T FO

FASHION FUTURES WHAT’S NEW? WHAT’S NEXT!

Cashmere Quiz: Why Mongolia?

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

WITH MENSWEAR’S INCREASING focus on luxury, it’s time to brush up on why Mongolia’s cashmere production is so widely revered. *Mongolia’s harsh natural climate, rugged terrain and extreme cold temperatures provide ideal conditions for cashmere goats to produce an incredibly soft and warm undercoat. The goats’ natural adaptation to the harsh environment results in high-quality, densely-packed fibers. *Mongolia’s nomadic herders have developed a deep understanding of the goats’ behavior, grazing patterns, and nutrition, enabling them to manage and maintain the health of the herds.

Collaborating closely with these herders ensures fair and ethical practices that empower local communities and provide herders with a stable income and economic opportunities. *The cashmere produced in Mongolia is distinctive due to its natural luster, warmth, and softness. These unique characteristics make Mongolian cashmere highly sought after by discerning consumers worldwide. *Cashmere quality is determined by fiber length and thinness. Compared to the industry average of 19 microns, Mongolian Cashmere is the longest and thinnest ranging from 13-14 microns, which is considered extremely soft and results in a luxurious hand/feel.

The longer staple length of Mongolian cashmere fibers contributes to their durability and ability to be spun into high-quality yarns and fabrics. *Mongolian cashmere production acknowledges the interconnectedness of human activities with the natural

world. Every step of the production process is carried out with minimal negative impact on the environment, prioritizing the well-being of the goats and the preservation of grazing lands. *Mongolian cashmere is often associated with ethical practices. The traditional nomadic herding lifestyle

ensures that the goats are free-range and not subjected to harmful practices.

“As a Mongolian Cashmere brand,” states Unenbat Chuluunbat, CEO of GOBI Mongolian Cashmere USA Corp, “we take immense pride in embodying the harmonious union of heritage and innovation.” —KAG

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Putting the AI in Supply ChAIn SUPPLY CHAIN IS a term we have all become too familiar with in the last few years. With a global economy, we’re increasingly aware of how production and staffing decisions upstream can have big impact at the cash register and beyond. As our industry and governments emphasize sustainability (see our Guest Edit on p. 32) and ethics, there’s even more at stake: Laws like the French AGEC – Anti-Waste for a Circular Economy and our own Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act are placing a lot of responsibility on the shoulders of brands. How can you be sure that the brands you’re selling will satisfy your customers’ concerns about everything from minimizing water use to fair labor practices to safe materials? Many brands are turning to services that utilize AI to monitor

practices from point of origin right down to the warehouse.

One such service, Pivot88, is a platform that manages product at the SKU or P.O. level, powered by AI to provide just such insights to its clients.

“Digital allows us to trust and connect with our supply chain, our design and development teams, our legal teams, and our customers,” explains Xavier Laforge at Oakley.

“All of us need a combination of this data, and Pivot88 is allowing us to surface this information as and when we require it. By having our suppliers and factories input all components used on our finished products, we not only have the carbon footprint of finished goods, but we know Tier 1 to Tier x of our

supply chain. Now we are integrating this to our ecommerce Product Information Management system so that we can be 100% transparent with our end consumers.

Another company, TrusTrace, has partnered with Brooks Running, enabling Brooks to make progress in its commitments to tracing its supply chain. “Visibility into the factories that manufacture Brooks products, materials and raw materials is critical to ensure our responsible sourcing standards outlined in our Supplier Code of Conduct are upheld,” explained Dave Kemp at Brooks.

See Pivot88.com/casestudies or TrusTrace.com for more information. —JRJ

The New Normal THERE’S NOTHING NORMAL about The Normal Brand, a sportswear company founded in 2015 by Jimmy Sansone, then an investment banker and the oldest of 10 siblings. The business now includes eight stores (six opened this past year), a growing wholesale component, women’s fashion and fabulous lookbooks featuring family members as models. (It doesn’t hurt that this is a great-looking family!)

As Lan Sansone explains it, “The idea hit when my oldest brother Jimmy was out shopping for a normal shirt. He quit his job and moved into my parents’ basement to work on it full time.

My brother Conrad and I joined him, and we run it together. Other family members help in various roles: Nikko handles our real estate; our mom designs all the stores...”

Fundraisers, charities and collaborations with athletes and country singers have been part of the brand’s DNA

from day one. The spring 2024 collection is their best yet: comfortable, affordable, on trend but not trendy.

Check them out at Chicago Collective, booth 10078, or contact lan@thenormalbrand.com.

—KAG 9

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TAILORED CLOTHING

Clothing by TailoRed

M A I N TA I N I N G MOMENTUM

Modern Style from Cardinal of Canada 1938

By Karen Alberg Grossman

WHO COULD HAVE predicted it? After a record-breaking tailored clothing year in 2022, few retailers expected to maintain the momentum. But being optimists at heart, most planned aggressively (“if we don’t plan up, why be in business?”) and are now admittedly surprised by how well clothing sales have held up. According to Blacks founder Steve Pruitt, “Clothing categories have had incredible momentum

over the last couple of years, and they look to continue strong at least through spring of next year. Among our client base, suit sales were up 24 percent this spring over last; sportcoats and soft jackets are showing a 37 percent gain. They’re selling at all price points: $1,000 to $2,000 retails at many mid-level stores, and even $6,000 soft jackets in luxury stores. The trend should continue at least through spring of next year.”

BEST SELLERS Blacks Retail breaks down 2023 YTD clothing volume into the following categories: 24% suits; 37% sport coats and soft coats; 9% dress pants and 30 percent MTM/special order. Retailers share mixed reports on what’s selling best. For some, it’s mostly traditional basics; for others, traditional suits have clearly slowed down (and in some cases, have come to a screeching halt)

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Independent retailers show impressive resilience.

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while fashion and newness continue to drive sales. “We sell mostly basic suits that can be worn for weddings, funerals, and business,” says Robby Miller at Miller Brothers in Atlanta, whose business is one-third custom/MTM with key brands Hickey Freeman, Samuelsohn, and Byron. (He plans to replace the Hickey label with Heritage Gold, essentially the same luxury product, now produced in Montreal.) Also sticking to a mostly basics approach, Dan Kocks from M. S. McClellan says they do not do well with fancy suits. But at Logan’s in Lexington, Kentucky, Elliott Logan notes that sportcoats in plaids and windowpanes are currently the driving force.

Ben Magnuson at MP3 in Minneapolis reports strong sales of tailored clothing in bold colors, patterns, and year-round fabrics at $1,500 to $3,000 retails from Canali, Cucinelli, and Isaia.

Says Chris Lambert from Christopher James in Fort Wayne, Indiana, where tailored clothing is about 40 percent to total menswear volume, “Our suit business is strong, both off the rack and custom.

Guys are still going to weddings and are not happy with the dated-looking stuff in their closets. We carry a broad range of product, from Betenly and Byron to Canali. We do very well with TailoRed, Hart Schaffner Marx, Jack Victor, and Coppley. Our custom business centers on Scabal fabrics in a Coppley make.

Custom is great because we don’t need inventory, although thanks to guidance from Jay Purkhiser at Management One (whom I’ve worked with for 20+ years), we haven’t had big markdowns on off-the-rack clothing. We have far more problems getting rid of sportswear than clothing.”

According to Joe Orlando at Joseph Orlando in Pittsburgh, sportcoats are selling in colors and patterns, and there

Suit shopping made easy at Greiner’s Fine Clothing in Sarasota, now selling soft neutrals and flashes of color.

are even a few DBs. “It’s no longer all navy blazers. We bring in a couple of DBs every season. It’s up to us to promote new looks.”

Numerous retailers singled out Canali as their backbone brand. “Both off the rack and custom,” says Dan Kocks from M. S. McClellan. “Canali is aspirational and it fits. Once the customer tries it on, it’s sold.

What’s more, they fulfill custom orders in four weeks.” Elliott Logan praises TailoRed, HSM, Hickey Freeman, Jack Victor, and Samuelsohn; Dan Kocks is selling Oxxford, Canali, Hickey Freeman (soon to become Heritage Gold), Samuelsohn, Jack Victor, and TailoRed. Chuck Hellman is on fire with Coppley, Etro, and Canali. Bottom line: smart retailers continue to reevaluate their mix, trading up where possible and always looking out for increased margins.

MARGIN MENTALITY Many retailers praised the healthy margins that tailored clothing has generated of late.

Says Robby Miller, “For our private label,

we use Peerless TailoRed and Jack Victor.

We aim for three to four times markup on these goods. Empire and Byron are also good margin labels for us.”

Blacks founder Steve Pruitt weighs in with much wisdom: “The clothing business continues to drive cash flow to our menswear operations. Price increases have not yet slowed sales. But we need to remember that coming out of the pandemic, we made more money with less inventory. Retailers should return to more disciplined planning in case fall ’24 gets challenging.”

CHALLENGES AHEAD As robust as recent tailored clothing business has been, retailers recognize that it’s cyclical and unlikely to continue indefinitely. Several spoke of challenges on the horizon, among them erratic deliveries from suppliers. “The lead times are too long and the request for extensions too many,” writes Magnuson at MP3. “The suppliers with market share are those who prioritize speed to market.”

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TAILORED CLOTHING

Robby from Miller Brothers also bemoans unreliable deliveries. “Spring ’23 deliveries were not good, and our pre-season early trips to NYC have not translated to more timely shipments. While vendors are talking a good game for fall ’23, who knows what will happen? Vendors need to keep their in-stock, in stock!”

Elliott Logan cites competing with vendors online as a continuing challenge.

He also mentions overhead and expenses increasing faster than sales volume and finding talented tailors and strong sellers.

And the quintessential conundrum: how to add excitement to the mix while staying in stock on basics.

Dan Kocks worries about the dramatic price increases in clothing, and also about finding qualified tailors. Says Wally Naymon at Kilgore Trout in Cleveland, “A key challenge for us is to continually review our vendor assortment. In their quest for more business, many of the brands independent retailers helped establish chose to sell to department stores that cannot move the product at regular price. By the time we go on sale, these majors have already reduced the prices 40–50 percent on their websites, thus diminishing the effectiveness of our initial markdowns.”

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

CHANGE IN THE WORKS According to our survey, retailers are making numerous changes in their clothing business. Nick Hilton from Hiltons in Princeton, New Jersey, is looking to narrow down his vendor structure, to expand price levels—both up and down—and to train staff to be custom experts.

Magnuson at MP3 is looking to expand overshirts and layering jackets. Chuck Hellman is increasing his buys to show customers that Hellman’s truly believes in tailored clothing. (He showcases 90 fully dressed and accessorized mannequins on the selling floor, half of them devoted to tailored clothing.) Kocks from M. S. McClellan has a goal to integrate more tailored clothing throughout the store.

Many stores are restructuring key clothing classifications to better identify growth opportunities, according to Marc Weiss at Management One. Yet most seem to be missing a major growth opportunity: introducing those looser, drapier, less structured tailored looks shown extensively on European

BY THE TIME WE GO ON SALE, CERTAIN MAJORS HAVE REDUCED THEIR PRICES 40–50 PERCENT ON THEIR WEBSITES, DIMINISHING THE EFFECTIVENESS OF OUR INITIAL MARKDOWNS.” WALLY NAYMON, KILGORE TROUT

runways for spring 2024. Unfortunately, many retailers insist that their customers are not yet ready, not even for the DB models and pleated trousers that have been ubiquitous at Pitti Uomo in recent seasons. But how will customers ever be ready if their favorite stores aren’t showing these new looks? We’re not talking hugely voluminous models here, but rather softer styles with some drape and movement.

Surely, it’s time for a model change!

ADVICE FROM THE EXPERTS Ed Scott from Retail One Group concisely sums up today’s clothing business: “Tailored continues to perform at retail. I think it’s one of the best values in the market: excellent sell-thru and great margins.”

Marc Weiss from Management One agrees, adding that inventory management

is key to strong results. “Profits should remain strong,” he predicts, claiming that discounting is less of a concern.

“Retailers have shortened their markdown period, going deeper and more targeted.

We expect the second half of this year to remain strong and we’re bullish for 2024. Independent retailers continue to show resilience.”

Fred Derring from DLS confirms strong clothing business among his stores and the increasing strength of MTM/custom.

“While business execs might not be back full-time to the office, they’re still going High Tech to functions and want to wear by clothing Heating that’s unique and customized.

I also project ThermoStyles a return to fuller cuts, pleated trousers, wider lapels, and DBs. Retailers who present these new trends with conviction can make them happen. It’s time.”

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Embrace the boldness, ignite your style, and let Jack of Spades Jeans be your ace in the deck of fashion

CHICAGO COLLEC TIVE , BOOTH 2016 • D. MANN@JACKOFSPADES.COM • 9 08 . 523.19 0 0

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TAILORED CLOTHING

TIME TO

LOOSEN UP

P I T T I & M I L A N S T R E E T S T Y L E I M AG E S , G E T T Y: C H R I S T I A N V I E R I G ( P I T T I ) A N D E DWA R D B E R T H E LOT ( M I L A N ) , A L L OT H E R S CO U R T E SY O F B R A N D S .

by Michael Macko IF THERE IS one silhouette that captured the zeitgeist of the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear season, it has to be the ubiquitous, slouchy, but not sloppy, relaxed suit.

Often, but not exclusively shown doublebreasted, it dominated the runways and front rows of the shows. Mostly seen in subtle, earthy tones from ivory to charcoal with pops of pastels and rarely paired with what most would consider a “dress” shirt, more often a tee or tank, the suit Is exactly what we need in fashion right now.

We knew there was something in the acqua when Kiton, Canali, Zegna and Armani, who collectively represent a large swath of men’s luxury tailoring, all showed essentially the same version, with the suits seen here, all pairing it with tee shirts and floppy silk neck scarves, and when that happens, it is something to pay attention to, for this is how trends are born.

And while definitely a believer of both the trickle-up/trickle-down theory of fashion design, where designers are inspired by what they see on the street as much as consumers are inspired by what they see on the runway, the loose suit trend is both, worn by many attendees of both Pitti Uomo in Florence as well as the Milan shows.

After three years of questionable Covid dressing and the further casualization of the male wardrobe, as if that were even possible, this is the perfect pendulum swing-back for menswear. It elevates the elastic waist pants and polos that have have become the new work uniform into a more dressed up look, all while moving at menswear’s favorite speed, glacially, but this will be the look that puts men, hopefully, back in suits, and potentially back into the office, for at least three days a week.

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P I T T I & M I L A N S T R E E T S T Y L E I M AG E S , G E T T Y: C H R I S T I A N V I E R I G ( P I T T I ) A N D E DWA R D B E R T H E LOT ( M I L A N ) , A L L OT H E R S CO U R T E SY O F B R A N D S .

Top row from left: Pitti street style, Canali, Moschino, Zegna, Gucci, Eleventy, Milan street style; bottom row from left: Brunello Cucinelli, Massimo Alba, Fendi, Pitti Street Style, Giorgio Armani, Tagliatore

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ACCESSORIES

NECKWEAR ALER T:

SHOUT IT OUT COOL GUYS WEAR TIES!

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

WITHOUT MUCH FANFARE, neckwear sales are slowly but surely creeping up. Imagine what could happen if we shouted a bit more.

“We’ve had the best neckwear sales in more than a decade,” says designer Edwa rd A r ma h, whose wholesa le accounts include Nordstrom, Harry Rosen, Oa k Ha l l, M r. B, A nd rew Davis, and many other fine stores.

What’s selling, he confides, is all about innovation. “I pride myself on testing and experimenting with innovative fabrics in order to achieve a modern but elevated look. My direction is a fresh take on texture, such as lightweight silk intertwined with chambray. The look and feel spell luxury, achieved only by hand printing and hand finishing.”

Designer Ruth Graves from STEP USA has recently checked in with several of her key accounts. At Halberstadt’s, Bryce confirms that ties are doing well.

“Consumers appreciate a good tie and are willing to spend $195 for one great tie, versus $195 for three mediocre ones.

I love the rich colors of Ruth’s grenadine ties; anything out of the ordinary is selling.” At Leddy’s in Fort Worth, Ruth’s neckerchiefs are selling like mad, but regular tie business is for special occasions. At Shaia’s, Ken Shaia says ties are doing well, but pocket squares are selling even better. Boozer McClure and his wife Julianne at Square Threads

report strong tie business, thanks to the strength of custom suits and shirts.

Selling best are contemporary classics in rich colors.

Greg Shugar of Beau Ties Ltd. points out that the neckwear business is cyclical.

“It’s been down for years; our last slight surge was in 2009–2013 so we’re clearly

past due. It would be great if the major players in the tie business did some impactful advertising to get the word out. Young guys these days care about clothing and they don’t want to dress like their dads. A neckwear comeback could be imminent.”

Says Danielle Mandelbaum from Bespoke, a key supplier of quality neckwear to major department stores, “Will we get back to the good old days of men wearing ties all the time? I don’t think so. But in just 10 years, our business is boomGold Standard Edward Armah’s fresh ing. Secret: we hired good people! We take on neckwear and pocket squares, have the right liinnovating through censes—Michael fabric.

Kors, Ted Baker, Penguin, Perry Ellis, and more. We know all the best mills and makers.

Clearly, young people are moving away from streetwear to more elegant, quiet luxury. Guys in their 60s and 70s are not wearing ties: it’s a fresh look for young guys who care about fashion these days.”

Best sellers at Bespoke are elegant black ties in cashmere, wool, or silk. Fun and funky styles in silks, cottons, linens, wools, and even sportswear fabrics. The go-to width at present is 2.5 to 3 inches, with nothing wider. “And don’t underestimate the Instagram phenomenon,” Danielle reminds us. “Guys want to wear a different tie for each photo/video they post!”

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ACCESSORIES

SOCKS APPEAL M O D E R N S T Y L E : NO SHIRT? NO PROBLEM, BUT KEEP THOSE A N K L E S C OV E R E D .

By John Russel Jones

INJINJI

HIPPY FEET

BRESCIANI

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

W IT H FASHION MOV I NG towards a fuller, more relaxed, layered silhouette, somehow the days of cropped, skinny trousers revealing bare ankles seem numbered. According to a recent article in The Atlantic, “Kramercore” — inspired by the character from the television show Seinfeld — is, among other things, about “sack pants that pull up a little short at the ankle to reveal white socks….” While there’s something to be said for the frugality of grabbing a 10-pack of basic whites at the local big-box, we think that hosiery represents a fantastic opportunity for sartorial expression that – ahem – stands on it own.

VIM & VIGR

According to WebMD, compression socks are great for athletes and people who stand all day at work (menswear retailers, maybe?) but many have all the style of a medical device. We like this pair for its vintage “tube sock” appeal. MSRP $38. Contact Kristi Huber, kristi@vimvigr.com.

FAR AFIELD

homelessness. We’re fond of this ’70s throwback smiley face motif. MSRP $19.

For more info, head to hippyfeet.com.

INJINJI

This little piggy went to market? This crew sock features Coolmax, comfy cushioned terry throughout the foot, extra arch support, light compression, and mesh for extra ventilation. MSRP $19. Contact Tim Dalton, TDalton@ injinji.com.

HIPPY FEET

This Minneapolis-based brand donates 50 percent of its profits to nonprofit organizations working to end youth

BRESCIANI

Upgrade the summer sock game with 100% linen styles from Bresciani of

VIM & VIGR

Italy. They’re naturally breathable, moisture-wicking, temperature regulating, and extremely durable. Just like a favorite linen shirt or suit, these socks offer an elegant look and feel.

MSRP $35. Contact Jennifer Clapp at J.R. Clapp, LLC, jennifer@jrclapp.com.

FAR AFIELD

We like the quiet subversiveness of this trippy — yet tasteful — tie dye pattern, and love that they’re made from an organic cotton blend. In Meteorite Black, MSRP $24. Contact Jennie Arnau, Peregrine Showroom, jennie@ peregrineshowroom.com.

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DENIM

THE MORE THINGS

CHaNgE . . .

T H E M O R E JEA NS R E M A I N S T H E SAME .

BY J O H N R U S S E L J O N E S

SOMEHOW IT SEEMS fitting that, in the year Levi’s is celebrating the 150th anniversary of its iconic 501 jean, that the leading silhouette in the men’s bottom business is a 5-pocket model in a dark wash and a classic cut. Is the move towards volume and wider silhouettes that we’ve been seeing on the runway hitting the denim market? Apparently not yet.

Trey Templeton at George Sherman in Starkville, Miss. says he’s still selling a narrower cut, but he’s seeing interest in a slightly wider bottom opening. “We’re still selling a lot of 5-pockets: it’s the pants guys are wearing with vests and even sportcoats.”

Michael Engel at The Foursome in Plymouth, Minn. concurs. “We’re continuing to see 5-pocket denim pants dominate the bottoms business in general. It offers versatility with a sportcoat or for a casual look. We’re also seeing a shift back to lighter washes after so many years of dark. There was a little interest in colored denim, especially in Spring, but it still doesn’t mean as much.

Our customer is slightly more conservative.

It’s all about comfort.” When asked about silhouette, Engel says, “We never went overly skinny — our guy wants more room in the thigh — but we’re looking at an updated bottom opening: 16 to 16 ½ inches. Some customers do want trimmer, but nobody is looking for wider.”

At Lansky’s in Memphis, Tenn. Hal Lansky says,“For us, ‘dress pants’ equals denim.

Wisc. says, “We’re seeing a move towards volume but it’s gradual. Styles and fits are opening up. It hits the Japanese brands first then trickles into American, but even there we’re not seeing a full swing of the pendulum, yet.” Although Milworks is known as a denim store, “we’re seeing a push towards a non-denim 5-pocket model. Generally, our guy is looking for an authentic workwear look. For example, we sell a classic chino from RRL so well we can’t keep it in stock, but that’s the exception to the 5-pocket rule.

We’re also known for selvedge denim, so our customer typically likes the wash very raw and dark. But over the last few years, we’ve seen a drift towards a dirty rinse, something to take out the starchiness and lighten it up a bit. LVC [Levi’s Vintage Clothing] from Levi’s for example. We do carry the ‘Dad jean’ in a light stonewash, but that’s been a slow seller. It’s almost more for window dressing. We expect to see more washes in the next few seasons, but it’s tricky. Clean, dark denim and a sport shirt are what’s considered acceptable in the work environment, so we’ll be keeping our eye out for ‘work-appropriate’ washes.”

“EVERYONE

REMEMBERS THE FIRST PAIR OF JEANS THEY FELL IN LOVE WITH” —SARAH AHMED

Even older guys want 5-pocket jeans now.

Black is the number one seller in both sport shirts and jeans, and, in either case, it’s hard to sell unless they have some stretch. We’re not selling flare or boot cut; we’re still at a smaller leg opening. We’re also seeing interest in whites and fashion colors, especially reds or ‘rosé,’ more of a pink wash, that matches their sport shirts. 34 Heritage is our number one brand. They stretch, and they’re comfortable.”

Jason Meyer at Milworks in Milwaukee,

BRAND STAND Denim brands are maintaining and growing a focus on those classics, continuing to create products with an emphasis on comfort and sustainability.

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Above, L to R: 34 Heritage, Mavi, DL1961, and Levi’s LVC. Left: Liverpool Los Angeles.

next season he’s seeing a lot of unique washes with a coastal California vibe (the brand is based there), featuring silvery-blue undertones in his denim.

“Call it ‘coastal blues’ or ‘blues before sunrise,’ it’s like a reflection of the ocean, with bluish grays. The collection is moving towards the lighter side, with darker washes taking a back seat for spring/summer 2024.

Color denim is driving sales, too. We’re getting into more autumnal shades, then spring gets soft, with crystal clear pale gray to soft green. It is not overly distressed!

This guy wants easy and clean. If we get too whiskered, etc., we get push back!”

Ugur Caymaz, who recently joined DL1961, sees men’s as a missed opportunity for the brand, so upon arrival he and Sarah Ahmed jumped right into shopping the market to flesh out the offering. “We’re combining denim with both performance and luxury,” says Caymaz. “We see the move in the market towards both denim and non-denim, in technical lightweight twills. And are building on the company’s existing platform of sustainability.”

“We’re not going for a yoga pant, says Ahmed. “We want our jeans to be functional, but luxurious, so we’re experimenting with wool and cashmere blends in denim, utilizing a knit fabrication we’ve developed that has superior retention and won’t get baggy after a few wears. We also have a vintage capsule where recycled jeans and cotton are woven into the denim, so it’s new jeans made from old materials.”

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

At 34 Heritage, Richard Binder emphasizes the company focus on sustainability. “Our expansion and growth with denim this season is driven by our use of eco-friendly materials and manufacturing processes that use less water, chemicals, and energy throughout the production process.

“Urban is our signature, mid-weight stretch denim that we are offering in new wash treatments paired with breathable, sustainable Tencel for a silky, soft hand with superior stretch and a flawless drape.

Refined features deeply shaded and textured fabrics that boast a combination of Tencel and viscose. Based on the success of our Verona High-Flyer slim chino — our ultimate everyday performance pant — we’re offering this style in our Refined denim for spring, too. Organic offers a sustainable, medium-weight denim made from premium organic cotton and recycled materials. This latest addition to our design line-up is as authentic and premium looking as it is good for the planet.

“Rounding out our sustainable offerings, the 34 Heritage Selvedge capsule continues for Spring ’24 and is designed in organic cotton. With minimal stretch and a timeless appearance, it has the makings of a true classic.”

At Mavi, Volkan Ureten says the company is “on a mission for our entire denim line to be part of the sustainable All Blue collection by 2030. Sustainable design and innovation are cornerstones of the brand, and the Spring ‘24 collection keeps us moving forward on this journey with a long-term commitment and

investment in processes that use less water, energy and chemicals.

“We’re really excited for the launch of Recycled Blue,” Ureten says. “Working with our partners at Lenzing, this new sustainable collection gives a second life to pre-and post-consumer materials which would otherwise be sent to a landfill.

Paired with breathable Tencel fibers through a process called Refibra, these ’90s inspired styles showcase an authentic denim look and feel using eco-friendly materials.”

Mavi will continue with its top-performing Organic Vintage program, as well as Feather Blue, an iconic group of jeans that are built to last with a blend of Tencel and recycled cotton. For true denim heads, Organic Selvedge is designed in a premium, mid-weight fabric with minimal stretch and a dense weave. The breathable, structured feel is finished in a rich indigo hue reminiscent of original denim.

“One of our favorite stories surrounds our Natural Dye group, with its innovative sustainable approach using all natural clay dyes and sustainable technologies,” adds Ureten. “Designed in earth-toned hues, metal accessories are replaced by biodegradable nutshell buttons, recycled materials for woven labels and threads, and a back label made from olive seeds. The hang tag also contains basil seeds that can be planted and nurtured to life.”

Mark D’Angelo at Liverpool Los Angeles is also seeing that his customers— both wholesale and retail — are staying with 5-pockets in cotton twill and denim for spring/summer (although the chino pant is becoming very important). Heading into

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7/21/23 10:47 AM

A RENAISSANCE IN AMERICAN HEADWEAR

By Justin MacInerney

THA members celebrate Hat Day in the Sun

THE HEADWEAR ASSOCIATION (THA) Founded at New York’s Waldorf Astoria hotel in 1908 as the Traveling Hat Salesmen’s Association, now The Headwear Association’s (THA) mission is “to promote hats and the headwear industry throughout the world and to foster goodwill and fellowship in the industry.”

THA members are leaders in manufacturing, wholesaling, design, and retail. These are their insights into key trends, influences, lifestyle changes, and innovations driving headwear sales today.

HEALTH BENEFITS

The Art of the Hatmaker by Optimo and Danish publisher Ehrhorn Hummerston.

BOOK REPORT “Optimo focuses on the best hats made. That’s all we do,” says Optimo founder Graham Thompson. His magnificent obsession is superbly documented in this exquisite 328-page book.

Essential reading for hat fans everywhere, it’s available at Optimo.com.

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

This time of year, we’re often reminded that wearing a hat can both make a statement and keep us healthy: The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends a three-inch brim, so be sure to stock hat inventory that goes well beyond caps and beanies.

“We’ve seen an increase in customers looking for stylish sun protection hats and seeking out brands that provide styles with UPF50+ sun protection,” points out Jack Kellogg, founder and hatter, Hatman Jack’s.

“THA’s Hat Day in the Sun is our annual public awareness campaign where we educate people that the proper sun protection hat can help protect them from melanoma and prevent aging. We give away sun protection hats in different U.S. cities.

This year we gave away hats in Harlem; Boulder, Colorado; and Stockton, California.

This is our 14th year distributing sun protection information and free hats. We also gave away 300 hats last week in Harlem, donated by Magid, Wallaroo Hats, Broner Hats, and Dorfman Milano,” reports Jill Hammer of HammerINK.

WESTERN—GIDDY UP! All our experts agree—the American West is the number one trend.

“The ‘Yellowstone effect,’ as well as series like Longmire and Justified, video games like Red Dead Redemption, and hit songs like Old Town Road have created a desire for rugged Western hats. Crossover styles that bridge the gap between town and country, like Stetson’s Open Road, have found a whole new audience,” says Tate Strasner-Martin,

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hatter at Hatman Jack’s of Wichita, Kansas.

“Western is galloping! Bailey’s business in this category has tripled since 2019,” adds Don Rongione, CEO Bollman Hat Company, manufacturers of Bailey, Kangol, and Helen Kaminski hats.

“Western sales have also been fueled by the surge in popularity of country music among Gen Z fans,” points out Tyler Thoresen, of Stetson.

Harrison Ford style in 1923.

B O O K COV E R P H OTO CO U T E SY O F O P T I M O A N D E R H O R N H U M M E R S TO N .

HATS

NICE HATS!

“Per capita hat sales peaked around 1914 in the United States,” according to Optimo’s exquisite new book The Art of the Hatmaker.

So, when I recently received back-to-back invitations from two American hatmakers, California-based Wellema Hat Company and Chicago-based Optimo, to their upcoming trunk shows in New York, I was intrigued. Something was happening in the hat world and I knew the perfect place to start to discover more.

7/21/23 11:22 AM

ALWAYS BE IN STOCK WE HOLD INVENTORY AND ARE READY TO SHIP AT ONCE

THE ORIGINAL LIFETIME GUARANTEED BAGS, BELTS, WALLETS AND GIFTS SINCE 1981.

SMALL LEATHER GOODS Book an appointment for: NY Best Menswear, PGA Frisco, Chicago Collective (Booth 1038), CALA OC, Coterie NY, MR AUG 2023.indd 25

BELTS Contact Customer Service WillService@WillLeatherGoods.com

LEATHER GIFTS NuOrder.com/WillLeatherGoods www.WillLeatherGoods.com

7/11/23 5:19 PM

HATS

TRAVEL AND THE GREAT OUTDOORS Recent consumer lifestyle changes have also had a major effect on demand.

“Remote working during and post-pandemic has led to an appreciation for the great outdoors, fueling demand for all kinds of headwear,” says Thoresen at Stetson.

“We developed Bailey 1922: Outdoors for the new lifestyle postCovid. The Raindura Straw retains its shape after being drenched, and for travel, our ever-popular packable LiteFelts trimmed with fine leather and grosgrain are selling well,” says Rongione at Bollman.

“The customer is looking for outdoor, easy-to-pack hats. The surge in post Covid global travel makes a packable hat a must,” concurs John Callanan, VP Design, at Dorfman Milano.

OTHER HEADWEAR TRENDS TO KEEP IN MIND FOR THIS SEASON:

POP COLORS, TALLER CROWNS, WIDER BRIMS “For Bailey 1922, the fashion side of the brand, sales increased 23 percent in 2022 and they have continued in double digits in 2023. Classic fedoras updated with taller crowns and wider flat and snap brims lead the way. Pop colors in blues, greens, oranges, and pinks are creating excitement and reaching new consumers.” —Rongione, Bollman QUALITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP “Stetson’s core styles are proudly lo-tech, and we feel that our business has benefited from a yearning for hand craftsmanship in an increasingly digital world. Today’s consumer craves products with authentic heritage, items that were built to last. The fact that our hats are made the same way they were made a generation ago is a big part of the appeal.” —Thoresen, Stetson

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DRIVING CAPS MADE IN AMERICA “We’ve just launched Kangol’s new USA Woollux 504 Limited Edition driving cap collection entirely made in the United States. Woollux superfine merino wool is bred in the Catskills, scoured in San Angelo, spun into yarn in Vermont, and knitted, felted, blocked, sewn, embroidered, and boxed in a recycled box in Pennsylvania. The fabric is incredible.”

—Rongione, Bollman VINTAGE, DISTRESSED, AND LASER BRANDING “Customers are looking for distressed, vintage looks. I’m also really liking hats with laser branding.” —Callanan “Well-worn, lived-in looks are hot right now.” —Thoresen, Stetson

Wishing a huge ‘Thank you’ to Jill Hammer of HammerINK, Graham Thompson at Optimo, and all of the industry experts who contributed their insight and images for this report.

Justin is a freelance writer whose articles have been published in the Financial Times and British GQ. He can often be found at New & Lingwood, 970 Lexington Avenue, New York.

P H OTO CO U R T E SY O F O P T I M O C H I C AG O.

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

GENDER NEUTRAL “Yellowstone and 1883 have had a huge effect on hats. The trend is totally gender neutral. The barriers between what is considered a man’s or a woman’s hat are being thrown down, especially when it comes to the current western trend.” — Thoresen, Stetson

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SCENE

HEATING UP H OT D E ST I N AT I O N S FOR SUMMER F U N I N C H I CAG O Summer is when Chicago really shines, from the glistening waterfront to the bevy of activity at every corner. Whether you want to escape the humidity or lean into the outdoors, don’t miss these spots, many of them steps away from the Chicago Collective.

ROLLING ON THE RIVER

BY SAMANTHA LANDE IF YOU MISSED last year’s dinner cruise (sponsored by the Italian Trade Agency), you can still get the experience of drifting through Chicago history via the Architecture Boat Tour. The incredibly knowledgeable docents from the Chicago Architecture Center (CAC) will discuss the ins and outs of every high-rise, the comeback from the Great Chicago Fire, and what makes the Chicago skyline so spectacular. The CAC River Cruise departs from the Michigan Avenue Bridge at Wacker Drive on Chicago’s Riverwalk. architecture.org.

TRUE COLORS IT’S NOT ONLY kids that love the Color Factory, adults do, too. Immerse yourself in this interactive art museum and learn how color impacts everything from taste to horoscope. Climb among mirrors, challenge yourself to a colorless taste test, and slide into a ball pit before indulging in a sweet treat or two. There are plenty of photo opps to be had throughout this brightly hued spot. 233 South Wacker Drive, Lower Level 2. colorfactory.co/ locations/chicago.

FREE SPIRIT A CHICAGO SUMMER favorite is the Riverwalk, dotted with cafes, watering holes, and ice cream shops. There are few better than Beatnik on the River, a Boho-inspired restaurant and cocktail bar with lush floral landscapes and stellar boat-watching views that pair nicely with a salted watermelon mojito. Start with the tart scallops crudo before dipping into baba ganoush and popping feta stuffed dates. 180 North Upper Wacker Drive. beatnikontheriver.com.

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FESTIVAL FANATIC A CHICAGO SUMMER isn’t complete without the arrival of Lollapalooza, a sheer takeover of Grant Park from August 3 to 6. Billie Eilish, the Red Hot Chili Peppers, Kendrick Lamar, and more headline the eclectic festival that features over 170 bands from around the world. There’s even a whole section for kids. Grant Park. lollapalooza.com

WINE DOWN

ROCK ON

YES, YOU’RE STILL in Chicago even if you get some serious Napa vibes from the Oakville Grill & Cellar. This new addition to the restaurant-studded Fulton Market neighborhood boasts a special intimate tasting room for six, the Cellar Door. This month, taste cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, and chardonnay from Paul Hobbs Winery. If you prefer something a little more hearty, sit down in the main dining room for a full meal, like steak frites made on an oak wood grill. 163 North Green Street. theoakville.com

YOU’D BE REMISS not to grab tickets to a theater performance while in Chicago. MJ the Musical relives Michael Jackson’s greatest hits and infamous dance moves, and its national tour starts here on August 1. Tommy, a revival of the Who’s rock spectacular about a pinball wizard, concludes its Chicago run on August 6. Nederlander Theatre, 24 West Randolph Street (MJ the Musical); Goodman Theatre, 170 North Dearborn Street. mjthemusical.com

STEP OUTSIDE THE Merchandise Mart for a spectacular display of digital art that uses the exterior of the building as its canvas. Each night at 9 p.m., an immersive art experience, Art on the Mart, begins, this month from the Chicago Black Dance Legacy Project. The must watch 15-minute show takes you through various genres of dance told in three acts. Merchandise Mart, 222 West Merchandise Mart Plaza. artonthemart.com

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

POINT OF VIEW

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GUEST EDITORIAL

B E YO N D T H E H Y P E :

WEB3 WILL SET YOU(R CUSTOMERS) FREE

BY B R I A N T R U N Z O

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

and other critical infrastructure exist MANY PLATITUDES HAVE been instead of licensing them for limited use to free you and your consumer from the coined by historians, macro economists within a single platform. From intertight grip of Web2 (Facebook, YouTube, and trend forecasters to describe waternet-native currency to digital objects, Wikipedia and even yours truly, MR-mag. shed moments in time. “History may users are slowly becoming empowered com) – from the platforms that acquire not repeat itself, but it often rhymes.” to do with their digital assets what they and sell your and your customer’s data “A generation that ignores history has may, as opposed to operating within the to fund their operations and keep you no past and no future.” “History will terms of service of walled gardens. Want siloed from your peers, competitors and be kind to me for I intend to write it.” to export your social media followers most damagingly, your consumers.

The last one – from Churchill – I But in a world where users own their actually like. Say what you want data – from their avatar wearables to about the man, his politics, social their loyalty points – the old world views etc., but he had conviction. He breaks down: they can opt into gamunderstood the rules of the game and ified and immersive experiences on how to put the ball in the basket. open and decentralized platforms, Those who understand the moment not owned by corporate behemoths, in which they are living are best and earn assets that they own and situated to “futureproof themselves” can freely use to transact. and win tomorrow. Think back to Back to the current state, the DTC the early-to-mid aughts. With the playbook has grown tiresome, and rise of blogging, emerging brands it’s become increasingly expensive like The Hundreds, overnight, could to run: customer acquisition cost magically reach as many customers is down, lifetime value is up; social as any mainstream legacy brand. shopping is anything but “social,” a Fast forward a decade, as blogging flat, uninspiring experience that’s made way for social media, brands removed foot traffic from our stores, like Warby Parker could suddenly increased return rates and put us all purchase more attention through in a race to the bottom. Web3 propaid search for a fraction of the cost vides another way – a way to build their competitors paid for mailers community and affinity directly and traditional broadcast media. The with your customer, a way to truly best of them found success marrying own the relationship. And while it’s content with advertising, and this Ralph Lauren has partnered with G2 Esports on a still early, similar to those brands is what separated them from their capsule of physical apparel, as well as with gaming that blogged and spent their way peers (for every Mr. Porter, we have platform Fortnite on a digital-only collection. to success, the following platitudes a dozen Park & Bonds – remember sure do paint a picture: fortune favors them?). from Instagram to Twitter? Maybe use the bold, the only constant is change We are standing on the precipice of the your rare Fortnite (the online video and innovate or die. next watershed moment in technology game) outfit inside Roblox (a platform See you on the other side of the chasm! and consumer culture: the proliferation with even more games)? What if we of “Web3.” Where the earliest version of added marketing programs that could the internet (Web1) enabled users to read reward your customers for their loyalty static digital content and Web2 made with even more digital assets, which Brian Trunzo is the head of business develway for users to interact with it (read they could earn for giving brands their opment, North America, for Polygon Labs + write), Web3 introduces something undivided attention? (a creative services and software solutions new to the internet: ownership.

Today, these examples are not merely studio) and “Web3’s Forrest Gump: crypFor the first time, creators and consumhypothetical but achievable to varying to-native blockchain professional, fashion ers can actually own their digital assets degrees with the help of Web3 tools bro, brand strategist, trend forecaster, author (images, videos, NFTs, cryptocurrencies) built on blockchains. Wallets, tokens and attorney.”

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GUEST EDITORIAL

PLASTICS AND OUR

PLANET

BY PETER GORSE

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DURING THE COVID lockdowns, I read a number of surveys concluding that few consumers identify polyester, nylon, or elastane [spandex] as plastics. With most of our clothes now made from plastics (more than 65 percent and growing), I felt the knowledge gap needed correcting.

Looking at current regulations, apparel makers need only provide information about the composition of the main fabric and country of origin. Is that enough? I believe there needs to be a list of all the materials used, including threads, trims, buttons, zips, labels, and even dyes. Providing this additional information would be advantageous for recycling the garment in the future, since new technology can recycle both fabrics and dyes.

I set about describing a garment via its data from a selected number of metrics.

(There’s inherent flexibility, depending upon which metrics you have data for.)

Choosing a T-shirt as an example, I used my network of experts to provide data about chemicals used, supply chains, energy sources for manufacturing, etc.

To effectively communicate this information, I needed a “vehicle” and selected the nutritional label that’s been used for decades by the food industry. Consumers are familiar with this format and can readily digest the information.

To highlight some of the chosen metrics: Date of manufacture is key. It can act as a tracking metric from first purchaser to end of life. Would you purchase a second-hand automobile without knowing its age? Also important is a description of materials used, stating polyester as a “plastic” and cotton as “plant cellulose.”

The total supply chain distance (km) and number of countries visited helps

Sal Giardina); many are now challengto provide a more complete picture than ing mills and manufacturers to do the just “country of origin.” same. Imagine a time when consumers A social metric is usually missing, or will have all the information needed to only voluntary, from current and future make wise purchasing decisions to help proposed legislation. The Garment Facts save our planet.

Label provides details of textile worker Peter Gorse is a textile researcher at Cranpay from stated manufacturing facilities, field University, UK. For more information, comparing these to minimum wage and email: p.gorse@cranfield.ac.uk. living wage calculations. In a commercial environment, verification of self-reported data (including pay and location of production facilities) is essential. There are mechanisms to validate data but also costs associated with such validation.

Future regulations, particularly in Europe, aim to stamp out vague susta inabi lit y claims (known as “greenwashing”) made by fashion brands. In the future, brands will need to provide real data to substantiate such claims. Europe is also proposing a Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) to inform consumers about the impact of consumer products, including textiles. This is based on Life Cycle Assessments (LCA), where impacts are calculated for 16 categories.

This past spring semester, seniors at the Fashion Institute of Technology used this garment facts label for their final research Gorse’s proposed label mimics the familiar Nutrition Facts project (thanks to Professor label used by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration.

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MRQ

EVOLVING A

BRAND P A U L & S H A R K ’ S A N D R E A AND ALESSANDRO DINI TA K E O N T H E C H A L L E N G E .

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN What do you see as Paul&Shark’s competitive advantage in the luxury menswear market?

Andrea: Paul&Shark was created in 1976 by my grandfather in Varese, a small town near the Swiss border. Our Italian roots remain unchanged for 47 years; our strong relationship with our territory inspires quality, attention to detail, and continued research of fabric technology. The company was born back in 1921 as a knitwear manufacturer, and we still produce all our own knitwear.

Being a vertical company, our flexibility gives us a real competitive advantage. With global supply chains still strained and many companies challenged to deliver on-time, our delivery performance has been consistently on-time, often early. What’s more, we continue to support our customers with our extensive “always in-stock” programs.

What percentage of sales does your U.S. business comprise and how will you grow this?

Sales in the U.S. are approximately 10% to total. Together with our new partner Triluxe, we aim for steady but gradual growth. We had a very successful first season with Triluxe, focusing on top independent stores. The U.S. market, like Italy but unlike the rest of the world, still values beautiful, family-owned independent stores. Being a family business ourselves, this is a something we understand and appreciate.

Best sellers at retail this Spring/Summer?

Our proprietary Typhoon water resistant lightweight outerwear, linen & cotton pique polos and technical travel pants.

Projected best sellers for Fall/Winter ‘23-‘24?

Our Loro Piana Storm System cashmere outerwear, Typhoon outerwear and the evolution of our signature hybrid pieces with combinations of Typhoon nylon mixed with knit and suede materials.

What key changes (merchandising, marketing, distribution) are you making as you plan ahead?

All aspects of the business are dramatically changing together.

During past years, the family was super concentrated on product development and relentless quality improvement. Today, although these aspects remain our focus, we realize that the world has changed, and that more attention must be put into merchandising and marketing.

Tell us about your new Father-Son ad campaign.

I’m third generation, my son starts the fourth. A father-son ad campaign is my way to honor the history of my family, and all the sacrifices my grandfather and father made to build a great brand.

We’ve also evolved our branding to become more discreetly integrated into the garments, with a focus on our heritage halfmoon and our new modern “Fin” icon, which the U.S. market has embraced.

And your new beach club collaboration?

The Tigu beach collaboration is a fantastic and super cool project.

This beach club is located on a beautiful beach near a whale reproduction site and a fishery, near Portofino where my grandfather used to take me for vacation! Being associated with this beach club gives us the impetus to redesign our beach and after-beach collections with attention to both sustainability and elegance.

What’s your vision for the brand in 2025?

To continue on the path we’ve started with the SS24 collection. To combine our intrinsic DNA with modern and sustainable design is key for the evolution (not revolution) of Paul&Shark. Recycled materials and a carbon free supply chain are other key aspects, with particular attention to using less water.

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7/21/23 9:12 AM

Paul & Shark enhances the father/son connection: in their marketing, and in real life.

GETTING PERSONAL Andrea, what did you learn from your dad?

On a very warm sunny day, I asked my father why he did not build a carport for our car. He took me to the parking lot where our 500 workers parked their cars and said to me that I could build our carport only after having built the same for all our workers.

What I learned from him: to respect and treat your workers as family because they are family.

What are you learning from your son?

Stay calm and cultivate personal relationships.

How would you describe Alessandro?

Young, but interested to learn.

What do you argue about?

The speed of accumulating experience.

Who wins?

No one.

What’s your favorite item from a recent Paul&Shark collection?

Our double-breasted water resistant peacoat.

With bleak economic forecasts, do you worry about luxury pricepoints?

Yes and no. We’re not an expensive brand considering our quality, and we offer a balanced price range. This allows our retail partners to adjust their buy according to their customer base and changing economic conditions. Clearly, Paul & Shark offers an exceptional price/value equation.

Alessandro, how would you describe your dad?

Clever and rational.

How are you alike?

We truly value our family roots and the people around us.

How are you different?

Different generation, different outlook! I love data and reports, he’s more old school!

What’s your favorite item from a recent Paul&Shark collection?

Our Typhoon platinum field jacket represents the core DNA of the brand, a perfect combination of technology and quality fabrics.

How will you grow your business with young guys?

We’ll continue to develop modern twists, enhance the customer experience, and create new marketing strategies.

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

What have you learned from him?

That you never stop learning. Advice and experience are keys to success.

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7/21/23 1:21 PM

SWAGGER SAFARI.

Brother Vellies

Daily Paper

Ikiré Jones

Kente Gentlemen The Rad Black Kids

Post Imperial Daily Paper x Zenology

Wales Bonner

Simon and Mary

Scott Alexander

Assouline

Denim Tears

Wales Bonner x Adidas Don’t Let Disco

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Mami Wata

37 37

7/21/23 1:21 PM

Paisley & Gray

Zegna

Aaron Basha

Calvin Klein

WHERE SPREZZATURA GOES FOR AUGUST. Panerai Acqua di Parma

Borsalino

Andrea Bossi

Gran Sasso Fedon 1919

Kenny Flowers Sid Mashburn

Silvio Fiorello

Phaidon

L’Objet 38

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Toscana

7/21/23 1:21 PM

HigherDose

Stuart & Lau

Larq

Prada

Freestyle

Baumm

Far Afield Sourcebooks

Faherty

“YOU’RE SO VAIN, YOU PROBABLY THINK THIS TREND IS ABOUT YOU.”

PENT Fitness

Flower Mountain

Saint New York

Roka

Vuori 39

Athletegy

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7/21/23 1:21 PM

Prada

RTH D.S. & Durga

Hartford Purple

Celine Homme

Dries Van Noten

Loewe

INTERNATIONAL PARTY BOY WITH A BLACK CARD.

DSquared2 dummy dummy

Nicholas Daley

IScream

Vilebrequin

Smilla Brav

Assouline Loewe 40

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June 79

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no. 27513

Shady Character

Disney

Charles Jeffrey

Bottega Venetta

HARAJUKU, SHIBUYA, ROPPONGI, OH MY!

PLAY Comme des Garçons

Junya Watanabe Man Maison Margiela

Nixon

Issey Miyake Homme Plisé

ERL Chrome Hearts

Prada Black Comme des Garçons

Stussy

Marni 41

Nike x Sacai

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7/21/23 1:21 PM

STEALTH WEALTH IS ALIVE AND WELL ON THE PCH. Saint Laurent Nilli Lotan Muji

Crap Eyewear

Alta Moda Belts

Birkenstock SMR Days

Brixton

Off-White c/o Victorinox

Ripple

Tom Ford

MQuan

42

The Elder Statesman

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Bell and Ross

Sealup

7/21/23 1:21 PM

Boston Whaler

“LOOK, MUFFY, A TREND FOR US.” Brooks Brothers

Ray-Ban Crab & Cleek

Cape Air

Quaker Marine Supply Todd Snyder

Kiel James Patrick

Rowing Blazers

Dey Street Books

Rowing Blazers x Sperry Topsider

Jared

Levis Royall Bay Rum

Smathers & Branson

43

Mystic Knotwork

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7/21/23 1:21 PM

Dharma Shop

Todd Snyder

D.S. & Durga

Wax London

Kardo The Gem Palace

Globe-Trotter Perte d’ego

King Kennedy Simon and Mary

Orlebar Brown

SMR Days

Sabah

THE NEXT MENSWEAR CAPITOL, DISCOVER IT, OR BE SARI.

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Karu Research

7/21/23 1:21 PM

Miansai x Everett Willams

LEAVE NOTHING BUT FOOTPRINTS (AND AN AWESOME INSTA STORY).

American Trench

Alex Mill

Chums Corgi

Illesteva

Paraboot

Kardo

Original Equipment

by American Trench

Pineider Shamans Market

The Hundreds

Wildsam

Story MFG

Parks Projects

LL Bean

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Will Leather Goods

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NECESSITIES

READING THE R

By John Russel Jones

Ah, summer in menswear. Relaxing by the pool, jetting off to exotic locales…hang on a minute. We work in a business that goes non-stop from the kick-off of Pitti in June right through NorthWest Buyers in August and on to New York Men’s Day in September. We may not be reading our three-inch thick hardback thriller on a lounge by the sea, but does that stop us? No! We can cram a paperback

(and a copy of MR!) into our carry-on, download that trilogy (Audible or otherwise) to our smart phones, or put an entire season of our favorite show on our iPads and make good use of every flight, every drive, or any couch we drop down on. Here’s what our industry’s culture vultures are consuming for summer 2023…including some show about a bear that everyone’s excited about?

ROBERT ETTINGER

JAKE DANEHY

CEO of Ettinger

CEO and co-founder Fair Harbor

The book I am reading at the moment — and one of my favorite books of all time — is Down and Out in Paris and London by George Orwell. It is the true story of the writer’s younger years living in Paris, working in a restaurant as a plongeur, washing dishes, considered the lowliest of the low jobs and very poorly paid. It tells of how he lives and of the many different people he meets.

He then goes to London and lives the life of a tramp on the streets and, again, tells how he survives and the people he meets. It really is a true story and a book I recommend everybody to read.

Being both the founder of a digitally native clothing company and growing up shopping at J. Crew, I really enjoyed The Kingdom of Prep: The Inside Story of the Rise and (Near) Fall of J.Crew. Maggie Bullock does a great job painting the history of prep and how J. Crew originated. In a way, I find the catalog boom and decline of the ’80s similar to the ecommerce boom of the last few years. Ultimately great product, compelling marketing, and thoughtful channel distribution is the formula we are still talking about today. Like the specialty retail boom of the ’90s, just like catalog companies of the ’80s, modern-day ecomm retailers are trying to find new ways to get in front of customers. History repeats itself, and it is always helpful to learn from the path and learnings of others so we can make strong decisions moving forward.

PETER LEFF

EVP of Wholesale for Tommy Bahama

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

I love to read non-fiction books and watch comedies or documentaries.

I travel a lot, so I like to have a good mix of entertaining books and shows lined up to enjoy during work travel, vacation or relaxing at home. I gravitate to sports-themed books and documentaries that focus on the competition, strategy, and commitment required of all professional athletes. Right now, I’m liking Talking to GOATs, by Jim Gray, a sports journalist, and his take on some of the world’s greatest athletes. (I may be a little biased since I went to college with him.) Also Sick in the Head

by Judd Apatow, a well-known writer/producer who recalls his conversations about comedy with some of the greats.

AARON SANANDRES

Founder of Definite Articles and CEO/Co-Founder of UNTUCKit I’m reading Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind, by Yuval Noah Harari. I haven’t finished it yet, but am a sucker for thought-provoking non-fiction, and it seemed fitting given our family trip to Africa this summer. The last book I read was the Power of Now, by Eckhart Tolle. Other than that, now that I’m back in the U.S., I look forward to catching up on the lost seasons of Ted Lasso and Jack Ryan.

JARRETT RAGHNAL Ember Niche Co-Founder Lately, my go-to podcasts have been Business Wars and the Mr. Jay Hill Podcast. Business Wars is almost like a playbook, being able to hear other success stories and how they overcame their trials and tribulations. I feel that it’s super valuable. Mr. Jay Hill does a good job of highlighting some of my peers and other celebrities, bringing out a side of them that we might not have known before.

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E ROOM

MENSWEAR EXECS SHARE THEIR SUMMER READING (AND WATCHING) FAVORITES.

ADAM BROWN

PETER ARESTY

Founder of Orlebar Brown

founder of CRWTH and president, Alfred Dunner

On holidays I like to experience a full spectrum of emotion, and great books are the perfect vehicle. My summer reading list is filled with fantastical tales, sadness, humour, ambition, and introspection.

• Empire of Pain, by Patrick Radden Keefe • A Little Life, by Hanya Yanagihara • Shoe Dog: A Memoir by the Creator of Nike,

by Phil Knight • Highly Desirable - Tales of London’s Super-prime Property From The Secret Agent, by Anonymous Author • Wherever You Go, There You Are: Mindfulness Meditation in Everyday Life, by John Kabat-Zinn

I am rereading Richard Brautigan’s Trout Fishing in America, which is an abstract book that has little to do with actual trout fishing. Next up is The Passenger from the recently deceased Cormac McCarthy who is one of my all-time favorite authors.

JOHN BARTLETT

Director of Fashion for Executive Studies, The New School

DAVID SCHUSTER

President Drest Agency, Chèrvo

I’m a huge fan of Elise Loehnen, the host of the Pulling the Thread podcast. Her book, On Our Best Behavior delves into the culturally programmed rules that women have been raised to live by and how they are reinforced by our society. Elise is profound, hilarious and a true voice of our time.

JOHN TRUEX of Ghurka

This summer I binged both seasons of The Bear.

My favorite line came from the character Richie, a troubled man trying to turn his life into something positive and meaningful.

Without giving much away, he starts wearing suits toward the end of season two. When asked why he’s changed his attire from grubby sweats and T-shirts to a suit, he responds, “Putting on a suit makes me feel better about myself.” I couldn’t agree more, Richie.

I’m currently reading Twentieth-Century Man: The Wild Life of Peter Beard [a biography about the photographer and naturalist], by Christopher Wallace, but the next book in line is The Art Thief, a True Story of Love, Crime, and a Dangerous Obsession, by Michael Finkel, [the story of a thief who displayed all his treasures in a pair of secret rooms where he could admire them to his heart’s content.] My latest binge-watch? Drops of God on Apple TV+.

ALAN VICTOR

CHRIS RICCOBONO

Jack Victor

Founder of UNTUCKit and Greatness Wins I went to Greece this summer and was inspired to read Classical Civilization, by Stephen Kershaw after visiting the Parthenon.

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I truly wish I had more time for podcasts and books, but with four kids under five years old and running two businesses, my free time is at a premium. I usually watch TV with my wife after the kids go down. Right now, we’re watching Daisy Jones and the Six, Hijack, and especially The Bear on Hulu. I like kicking back and watching someone else run a business for a change.”

7/21/23 1:56 PM

L A S T WO R D

ALL THE NEW

PRINTS

by Michael Macko

Hurley, $75 MSRP

Todd Snyder, $128 MSRP

Saturdays NYC, $135 MSRP

Vilebrequin, $310 MSRP

Orlebar Brown, $275 MSRP

MR MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Dries Van Noten, $320 MSRP Paul Smith, $175 MSRP

WE ALL KNOW men love a hibiscus or turtle print on their swimwear, but with your customer already having those prints in his wardrobe, we think you should entice

Givenchy, $650 MSRP

him to shop for a new suit for SS/24 by looking into some of the new unexpected and unusual prints that are currently in the market.

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7/21/23 8:11 AM

The legacy continues.

Fine fabrics for over 75 years.

See Gladson at the Chicago Collective Booth # 6121

www.gladsonltd.com

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