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Larrimor’s FORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/SS 2019

Larrimor’s S S   2 0 1 9     F O R U M   /   T H E   S U B S T A N C E   O F   S T Y L E

TEE TIME 6 COURSES TO PLAY NOW SCARVES, VESTS, TIES & HATS DOING ACCESSORIES RIGHT MOREL IMPERATIVE TRY THIS SHROOM

L A R R I M O R S . C O M

SPRING STYLE 7 OF THE SEASON’S MUST-HAVE LOOKS

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CONTENTS

spring/ summer 2019

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

ALL THE COLORS OF THE RAINBOW

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Spring and summer are the perfect seasons to add splashes of color to your wardrobe. 14

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THE RIGHT WAY

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THE SHORT OF IT

Ask Larrimor’s

Want to know the truth about ties and the coolest pants for hot weather? Read on.

This year’s tailored shorts can be appropriate for the office—and beyond. 28

Serving Notice

Our guest editor reveals Aristotle Onassis’ sage style advice.

This primer will have you looking perfectly polished in no time. 26

Memo

Larrimor’s is celebrating our 80th anniversary in style.

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MAN OF STYLE

Chris Hemsworth has talent, great looks and an impeccable fashion sense.

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JAGUAR ELECTRIFIES

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The British carmaker’s first all-electric vehicle is pure luxury.

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BODIES IN MOTION

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Made-to-Measure

Custom fit designer shirts are as practical as they are comfortable. 64

Final Stitch

In honor of Father’s Day, top menswear execs share lessons they’ve learned from Dad.

Larrimor’s style pros curate the best men’s looks of the season.

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Grooming

How to trim—and buzz—and brush—and tweeze to look your best.

Today’s luxury lightweight performance fabrics will keep you looking sharp.

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Fitness

On these six hiking trails you’ll reap benefits physically, mentally, spiritually and scenically.

ISLAND OF PEACE

Sri Lanka beckons travelers with beauty, history and tranquility.

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Cheers

Summer is the perfect time for adventurous cocktail concoctions that really spice things up.

Pop artist Paul Gerben reflects on why art matters.

SPRING STYLE GUIDE

Gourmet

Beloved by chefs, the morel mushroom can make an ordinary meal special—or a special meal sublime.

32 ARTISTIC MUSINGS

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Tee Time

Grab your clubs and hurry to these legendary golf courses as soon as you can.

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Larrimor’s Guide

Discover our favorite fair weather trends in women’s fashion.

ON THE COVER: On her: top and pants by L’Agence. On him: sportcoat and shirt by Canali, pocket square and tie by Eton.

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EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

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memo

Larrimor’s

SPRING FRESH

249 FIFTH AVENUE PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA 15222 412-471-5727 LARRIMORS.COM Editor-in-Chief

RITA GUARNA Creative Director

STEPHEN M. VITARBO Senior Editor

DARIA MEOLI Senior Associate Editor

DARIUS AMOS Lifestyle Editor

HALEY LONGMAN Art Director

VICTORIA BEALL Contributing Editors

MARTY HACKEY, EVERETT POTTER, DONNA ROLANDO, NAYDA ROLONDO, FRANK SCHIPANI Contributing Photographer

DANIEL SPRINGSTON Edior at Large, Founding Editor

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Publisher

SHAE MARCUS Director of Sales

MONICA DELLI SANTI Project Manager

LISA MENGHI Director of Production & Circulation

CHRISTINE HAMEL

Advertising Services Director

JACQUELYNN FISCHER

Orson Welles’ radio adaptation of The War of the Worlds has radio listeners heading for the hills, pilot Douglas “Wrong Way” Corrigan takes off from New York City headed for California but lands in Ireland instead, Haggar debuts a new concept in pants called “slacks,” Seabiscuit defeats triple-crown winner War Admiral in horse racing’s upset of the century and here in Pittsburgh, Larrimor’s opens its doors. This spring we are celebrating our 80th anniversary with some exciting events and greater engagement with our community. Outside, tulips are blooming and leaves are budding on tree branches. Inside Larrimor’s, we’ve got a lot of things popping too. For one, we’re thrilled to now offer our customers hand-crafted menswear made by Atelier Munro. For women, we will soon carry Akris Punto, a beautiful collection of women’s sportswear and bags that we know you’ll love from the Swiss design house. After browsing our new offerings, we hope you’ll join us for shopping experiences you can have only at Larrimor’s, including Pittsburgh’s only Julie Vos trunk show and a spring, summer and fall Escada trunk show, which will reintroduce the famed brand to our store…and to our city. We’ll be hosting a slew of other trunk shows in-store, so join our e-mail list to stay in the know. In fact, while you’re online, check us out on Facebook and Instagram. Have any amazing memories in our store? Want to give a shout-out to your favorite sales associate? Have a style question or suggestion? Post about it—we would love to hear from you. In the meantime, we hope you enjoy the spring/summer 2019 issue of Larrimor’s magazine. If the new season has inspired you to get out of town, check out our feature on page 34 which will make you want to book a trip to stunning Sri Lanka, or skip to page 56 if you prefer to stay closer to home and want to hike some scenic trails. More of a foodie? Flip to pages 50 and 52 to learn about some innovative new food and drink trends, respectively. And of course, we can’t forget the fashion: We have spring style advice throughout the issue to help you look perfectly polished. There’s more where that came from if you stop by the store, so pay us a visit and we’ll help you up your wardrobe game for spring, summer and beyond. We look forward to seeing you. —Lisa Slesinger & Tom Michael

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Production Art Associate

CHRIS FERRANTE

Graphic Designer, Ad Services

VIOLETA MULAJ Accounting

AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK APPAREL FORUM

ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman

CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO

MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents

SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents

NIGEL EDELSHAIN, TOM FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL LARRIMOR'S is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656, in association with LARRIMOR's. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, LARRIMOR'S, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, LARRIMOR'S, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656 or call 201.573.5541 Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com Printed In The U.S.A. Volume 21, Issue 2. © 2018

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first person

serving

NOTICE

People judge by appearance. Be sure to send the right message and dress for success. By Frank Schipani

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n a biography about Aristotle Onassis, I read a great anecdote on image. Onassis was in a cocktail lounge in Monaco having a drink with friends. At the end of the bar were two young men, glancing at him with admiration. One of the young men challenged his friend to approach Onassis and ask him how to look successful. Standing tall, the friend moved toward Onassis. “Excuse me, sir. I’ve admired you for a long time and would love to ask you just one question: How can I look as successful as you?” Onassis paused for a second, then responded with a smile. “I will give you three tips: One, always be exquisitely dressed. Two, always be tan; and three, buy drinks for nice people in nice places.” The young man thanked him, and as he strode back to his seat at the bar, Onassis asked the bartender to send the young men drinks on him. I believe this story speaks volumes about image and perception. Maybe you can’t be tan all the time but good grooming and modern quality clothing (and eyewear) are givens. At home, you can kick back all you want but in the outside world, you are what you look like. Fair or unfair, people make silent judgments on your appearance all the time. I’ve been in the men’s fashion business for almost half a century and have lived and shared this philosophy when conducting professional workshops, seminars and career preparation talks. Three months ago, my son took on a VP sales position with a major financial company. He and I agreed that he needed to upgrade his wardrobe from casual looks to suits and ties. More recently, he and his boss visited a Fortune 500 client and presented to the CEO and several associates. The office was total opulence: 50 stories above the southern tip of the Hudson River, modern furnishings, floor to ceiling windows overlooking the New York bridges and Statue of Liberty. During the meeting, the CEO, himself

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Known as the “Golden Greek,” the self-made Aristotle Onassis has said, “To be successful, you have to act big, think big and talk big.”

elegantly dressed, suggested a break. While the group was waiting for water to be delivered (no one requested coffee), the CEO looked at my son and said, “Joe, I love what you’re wearing! Great shirt and tie! And what kind of suit is that?” My son explained that the suit was completely unstructured with a “shirt sleeve” shoulder (no padding). His rounded spread-shirt collar exposed some

of the tie underneath, which was tied in a “four-in-hand” with two dimples, a distinctive look no doubt. The CEO thanked him and the meeting proceeded. That afternoon my son texted me to say he never felt as in command as he did when this CEO admired his sartorial style. And yes, he successfully sold his service to this company.

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ASK Larrimor’s

solving your fashion dilemmas

The Truth ABOUT TIES

I’m tempted to discard all my old ties as it seems no one is wearing them anymore. What’s the story? Granted, they’re no longer mandatory business attire, but ties are far from extinct. In fact, nothing makes as clear a proclamation about your confidence and competence as wearing a great tie. Whether with a suit, sportcoat or a button-front shirt and jeans, the tie remains a symbol of respect for tradition and of individual style. But don’t confuse 2019 neckwear with what’s on your tie rack. While yesterday’s ties were mostly shiny silk, today’s are often crafted in non-silk or luxury blends, sometimes textured or with a subtle matte finish. For spring, try the new cotton/linen or silk/linen fabrics in modern widths from 2¾ inches to 3¼ inches. Colorful silk prints are still important for creating an upbeat vibe, but knits keep the look fresh. So yes, you can dump the old ties as long as you buy a few new ones. You won’t be sorry!

STAY COOL, Man

Most of my pants and jeans are too heavy (and tight) to wear in hot weather. Are there any options that are lightweight, comfortable and office-appropriate? Yes. We have numerous styles to carry you through spring into summer, including 5-pocket chinos that fit like jeans but are much lighter in weight. With the addition of stretch to traditional fabrics, even slim styles no longer feel tight. In addition to jogger-inspired styles, we carry dressier models in performance fabrics to keep you cool in even the hottest weather. Brax, one of our favorite luxury brands, uses fibers from the kapok tree, Supima cotton and silk. Brax’s dense weaving techniques create an elegant drape in some of the brand’s styles. Bottom line: In this era of advanced fabric technology, pants have never been as cool, comfortable or flattering. It’s a good time to stock up!

GREAT Gifts

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I hate buying clothes as gifts because I’m never certain of size or taste. What do you suggest? You can’t go wrong with accessories. Consider handsome leather wallets or card cases, soft luxury socks, colorful pocket squares in cotton, silk or linen (printed or trimmed at the edge), artisanal wrist jewelry (a hot trend for all ages and styles), fashion belts and lightweight carry-ons and other assorted travel accessories. Stop in and we’ll help you find the perfect gift for your perfect guy. If not, there’s always our gift card option, perhaps the most perfect gift of all! L ARRIM O R’S S P RING/S U M M ER 2019

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LOVING HOW YOU LIVE.

©2018 California Closet Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Each franchise independently owned and operated.

You dream it. We design and build it. Make every space your own.

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now trending

women’s MUST HAVES We are all about versatility. How would you wear these favorite Insta-worthy pieces?

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1. Make a statement with great Julie Vos jewelry, Paule Ka’s white wrap blouse and color washed python print bag. 2. Dreaming of a warm weather vacation? Try this Johnny Was dress and our convertible Hammitt bag. Dress these up or run barefoot on the beach. 3. On the go? Stay sharp and comfortable with a Daniella Lehavi backpack Etro boyfit paisley blouse, Citizens of Humanity Drew Fray High Rise Crop jeans in ash and a Alexis Bittar Crumpled Wide Cuff bracelet.

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4. This is not your mother’s suit. This Smythe jacket is perfect for dinner or just throw a tee under it to dress up your denim. 5. It’s all in the details with this Etro scarf and spectacular painted bag.

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6. Keep it colorful and classy with this St. John knit jacket, Alexis Bittar floral brooch, Bond No. 9 NYC Nolita perfume and lipstick duo and a Paule Ka clutch.

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elements of style

all the

COLORS

of the

Spring and summer are the perfect seasons to add splashes of color to your wardrobe. Take a cue from Roy G. Biv (the mnemonic that helped us remember the colors of the rainbow— red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet) and liven up your look with a new hue or two.

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PHOTO CREDIT: DANIEL SPRINGSTON

RAINBOW

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Top row from left: RED­—5-pocket, hi-flex denim jeans by Brax ORANGE—cashmere zip-front cardigan by Eleventy YELLOW—plaid double-breasted sportcoat by Isaia GREEN—knit tie by Isaia Bottom row from left: BLUE—zip-front jacket by Eton INDIGO—silk tie by Eton VIOLET—sportcoat and seersucker shirt by Samuelsohn and pocket square by Eton

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instructional

the

RIGHT

WAY

This gentleman’s primer will help you look perfectly polished. Don’t know the difference between a trilby and a fedora? You’re not alone. Plenty of men eschew accessorizing because they are unsure of the right way to incorporate pieces, such as hats, scarves and vests. Consider this our campaign to change your mind about the sartorial details you may be avoiding. So, go ahead. Follow these tips for donning accessories like a pro and upgrade your summer style. FIT TO BE TIED A group of mathematicians in Stockholm recently calculated that there are 177,147 ways to tie a tie. But most men wear one of three basic tie knots: the four-in-hand, the half Windsor and the full Windsor. The last is a thick, wide triangular knot that is said to project confidence and works well with on-trend spread and cutaway shirt collars. Once you decide on the knot, make sure the tip of your tie ends at the middle of your belt buckle or waistband. Too long and the look is frumpy; too short and it just looks silly.

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And if you still have wide ties hanging in your closet, give them away. The acceptable width for a tie in 2019 ranges from 2¾ inches to 3¼ inches. Historically, silk has been the fabric of choice for neckwear but these days, designers are blending silk with wool, wool with cotton and cotton with linen for a look that’s less shiny and very on trend. Try a luxury blend or a pure cashmere for a more contemporary expression. IN-VESTED There is no right or wrong way to wear a vest: You simply put it over or under anything in your wardrobe for a fashionable, layered look. Trade in the suit jacket or blazer for a knit or twill vest on hot, humid days. Or keep it traditional with a three-piece suit. Simply remove your suit jacket and you’ll still look professional while staying cool. If you want to slenderize your midsection, nothing is more flattering than a knit vest. Rather than wearing a button-front shirt tucked into pants with a dark belt circling the widest part of the body, a knit vest covers the middle, creating a more flattering line. It is best to match the color of the vest to the color of the pants for a minimizing monochromatic look. Or if the vest has a pattern, match the base color to the pants. On those spring days when there is still a nip in the air, a lightweight nylon quilted vest is the quintessential outerwear piece. This season, brightly hued—even neon— outerwear is all the rage. Utility and field vests were popular on the runway for spring, and we love that they combine function with fashion. When traveling, a vest with many pockets will save you from frantically searching through your carry-on for your passport, cash, credit cards, phone, ad infinitum.

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DON’T SCOFF AT THE SCARF If you’ve traveled to Italy, you’ve probably noticed many more Italian men wear scarves in warmer weather than men in the States do. Even in sweltering heat, you’ll see Italian men draping, tying or wrapping beautiful lengths of fabric around their necks. The good news is tying a scarf is a lot easier than tying a tie. The best way to wear a scarf—the nonchalant Italian way—is simply to drape it around the neck and let the ends hang down. If you prefer to wrap or tie, there are two easy ways to do it: For a once-around wrap, drape the scarf around the neck, one end longer than the other. Wrap the longer end around the neck and let both ends hang down. Our favorite way to wear a scarf: Fold it in half lengthwise, drape it over the neck and bring the loose ends through the opening formed by the folded end. Tighten to your comfort level. For spring, try featherweight cashmere, printed linen and linen blends to add a touch of personality to both sportswear and tailored clothing. TOP IT OFF The fedora remains the quintessential gentleman’s hat. While it’s no longer the 1940s when almost every man in the stands at Yankee Stadium wore a fedora, this classic model remains a widely recognized symbol of masculinity and class. In recent years, however, styles including bucket hats, trilbys and baseball caps have added a suitably rebellious touch to any look— from a T-shirt and jeans to a traditional suit. Once you’ve mastered the rules for styling accessories the “right way,” go ahead and break them to express your own individual style.

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the lucky 7:

SPRING STYLE GUIDE Want to look like a winner this season? Larrimor’s style pros combed through the SS19 menswear collections to find the best new looks—both tailored and casual. Shop these curated looks at Larrimor’s! Photography by Dan Springston

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PATTERN MIXING Wear a classic Glen plaid sportcoat in beautiful shades of blue with a dotted tie and printed pocket square, also in the new blues. The secret to pattern mixing: Choose complementary colors, and play with different scales in patterns. Sportcoat, shirt and trousers by Canali, pocket square and tie by Eton.

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RAIN OR SHINE A weatherproof topcoat crafted from a luxury performance fabric is the contemporary version of a raincoat and will take you anywhere. The modern cut fits over a sportcoat. It’s truly a year-round piece, perfect for travel, and a great investment! Topcoat, blazer and trousers by Isaia and shirt by Eleventy.

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FEET FIRST Part dress shoe, part sneaker, this is the footwear you’ll live in this spring, adding a bit of panache to your dress-down attire and a bit of edge to dress-up. Zip-front cardigan and trousers by Eleventy, shirt by Isaia and sneakers by Magnanni.

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THE CLASSIC SUIT While it sure looks like a traditional suit, the slim-but-not-tight fit is the hallmark of 2019. Thanks to the natural stretch in today’s luxury fabrics, this suit is as comfortable as it is fashionable, which means you can actually move in it. Suit by Canali, shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna and pocket square and tie by Eton.

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THE FLORAL SHIRT A man in floral prints projects confidence and charisma. The shirt’s perfect collar stance is thanks to the second button, which is high enough to look neat without a tie. Sportcoat and shirt by Samuelsohn, trousers by PT01 and pocket square by Eton.

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TONE ON TONE Even in denim jeans, a dark toneon-tone look is the epitome of city style, no matter the season. Wear a white shirt to set off the darker shades and keep the look light. Jacket and sweater by Ermenegildo Zegna, shirt and tie by Eton and jeans by PT01.

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COLOR CUES There’s no time like spring to break out the bold color! We love these washed red fivepocket trousers worn with a soft coral (Pantone’s 2019 Color of the Year) shirt. Layered with the pale blue quarter-zip sweater and brown suede bomber and shoes, you’ve got a polished, go-anywhere casual look. Bomber jacket, sweater and polo by Peter Millar, jeans by Brax and suede sneakers by Scarpe di Bianco.

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how to wear it

the

SHORT OF IIT! This year’s tailored shorts can be appropriate for the office— and beyond.

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t’s official—long, baggy shorts are history. While skinny pants have fallen out of fashion’s favor, slimming, tailored trousers and jeans have continued to reign for nearly a decade and ankle-length pant hems have been mainstream since 2015. We’ve waited with bated breath for shorts to take the same style cues and become shorter and tapered. Thankfully, designers this season have confirmed that cargo and other droopy-style shorts have gone the way of 1970s’ leisure pants. For spring/summer ’19, shorts are slim, trim and sexy. No longer relegated to the gym, beach, ballgame or backyard barbecue, shorts are a fashion must-have this season. While many designers showed very short shorts at Fashion Week, choose the length that feels most comfortable to you. Appropriate lengths range from two to six inches above the knee. Fabric options range from soft-brushed cottons to seersucker to feather-light performance fabrics that combine the technical advantages of boardshorts with the sophisticated styling of fashion shorts. The cuts available this year are appropriate for the office, date night and other business casual occasions. You can dress up shorts with a woven button-up, fabulous floral print shirt or even a sportcoat or lightweight cardigan to really refine the look. Sandals with shorts should only be worn in very casual situations. To stay sharp, pair shorts with driving moccasins, boat shoes, loafers or leather sneakers. Keep in mind, socks should not be visible, so go barefoot or pick up no-show socks. Stop in the store and we’ll help you find your perfect pair of shorts.

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Shirt by Eton and shorts by Brax.

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man of style:

CHRIS HEMSWORTH This Aussie actor combines talent, great looks and an impeccable fashion sense. By Daria Meoli

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hris Hemsworth’s best-known acting turn is playing Thor, the superhero and hammer-wielding mythological god, in six Marvel Universe blockbuster movies. But he may be even more famous for being impossibly good-looking. The azure-eyed Australian was named People magazine’s “Sexiest Man Alive” in 2014 and recently was called “The Manliest Man in Hollywood” by GQ. A Vanity Fair writer who profiled the heartthrob noted that Hemsworth’s “handsomeness is so extreme it can’t be denied or ignored, or even played down.” All this effusive adoration could go to a guy’s head, but this down-to-earth family man can cut through the puff with self-deprecating humor. Thus Hemsworth lampooned himself on Saturday Night Live: “When I got to Hollywood, they said I’d never make it as an actor—they said I was too tall, too blond, my muscles were too big....” And he had tongue firmly in cheek playing Kevin, a hot-but-dumb receptionist in the 2016 Ghostbusters reboot, riffing with improv dynamos Kate McKinnon, Kristen Wiig and Melissa McCarthy. Like other Aussie imports—including Naomi Watts, Heath Ledger and Simon Baker—Hemsworth began his acting career on the Down-Under soap opera Home and Away. American audiences were introduced to Hemsworth in 2009 when he played George Kirk in Star Trek. Since then he’s played a hacker (in 2015’s Blackhat), a huntsman and a Hunt—that is, a title character in the fantasy films Snow White and the Huntsman (2012) and The Huntsman: The Winter’s War (2016) and the hard-drinking, womanizing Formula One race-car driver James Hunt in the biographical Rush (2013). The actor, who turns 36 in August, will portray Thor for the seventh time in a new Avengers flick this summer. As if one summer blockbuster isn’t enough, Hemsworth also will star in a Men in Black spin-off. Growing up, Hemsworth’s family moved several times among Melbourne, the remote town of Bulman (a cattle station in Australia’s Northern Territory outback)

and Phillip Island, where he first fell in love with surfing. He’s the middle child between two four-letter L-words, older brother Luke and younger brother Liam. They’re actors too. In fact, the Aussie’s seminal superhero role nearly went to Liam instead. Hemsworth’s initial audition for Thor went so badly he didn’t hear back from producers for months, while his brother received several callbacks for the part. When Hemsworth finally got called in for a second audition, his improved reading was fueled by a new motivation, as he told W: “Maybe frustration that my little brother had gotten further than me. A little sibling rivalry sort of kicked up.” Score a win for the middle kid. The bankable leading man’s style has been likened to those of the late Steve McQueen and James Dean because he favors looks that are classic masculine. He is often seen out-and-about in a dark pair of jeans—fitted but never skinny—with a white shirt and a casual leather jacket with gold-rimmed aviator glasses or classic Ray-Ban Wayfarers. When it’s time to hit the red carpet, Hemsworth rocks well-tailored, dark-hued suits. He pairs jackets and pants with slouchy, untucked cotton T-shirts or flexible cotton button-ups with at least two top buttons undone. He’s a master of making an open collar work for formal occasions. While Hemsworth shines as bright as any star in Hollywood, this husband (to actress Elsa Pataky) and father (of 6-year-old daughter India and 4-year-old twin sons Sasha and Tristan) moved his brood out of L.A. in 2015. Yearning to return to the natural space—and pace—of his home country, he relocated his family to Byron Bay, a beach town on Australia’s east coast near some legendary surf breaks. When off-set and miles away from trendy L.A., Hemsworth’s style reflects the proud beach-bum side of his personality—a day-to-day look that consists of Hurley board shorts and a T-shirt. He has said he spends a lot of time at the beach and likes to wear earthy tones in that environment. On screen, at the point break or at a premiere, this Aussie hunk bears watching.

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auto

jaguar ELECTRIFIES The British carmaker’s first all-electric vehicle, the luxurious I-Pace SUV, bolts to the front of a crowded pack. By Darius Amos

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sk and you shall receive—right, Elon Musk? The Tesla chief took the auto world by storm when he rolled out his line of luxury electric cars, but little did he know that his call for the world’s other leading automakers to manufacture competitive “green” vehicles would be met head-on by Jaguar. The British company,

with an 80+-year history of producing fine executive cars and sports coupes, has more than stepped up to Musk’s challenge. It has launched a new five-seat SUV crossover, the I-Pace, that’s now standing toe-totoe with Tesla’s front-running Model X. The I-Pace is Jag’s first all-electric vehicle. With a starting price of $70,495, it aims to become the leader in an SUV market that includes Mercedes-Benz, Audi and Porsche as well as Tesla. So what makes this big cat purr? For starters, it boasts two electric motors that generate 394 horsepower, which Jaguar says will muscle a 0-to-60 time of 4.5 seconds. (That’s faster than the Model X and just a fraction behind Tesla’s iconic Model S super sedan.) And track results show the new Jag has a range of up to 234 miles on a full battery charge—that’s New York City to Boston without stopping to plug in. The raw I-Pace power is tamed by all-wheel drive traction, which also comes in handy in stormy weather or when the pavement ends and off-roading begins. Faced with rough terrain, drivers can adjust the car’s suspension height: A flip of a switch will activate air springs to raise the SUV’s body 2 inches and improve ground clearance. At higher speeds (and back on asphalt), the suspension can be lowered about one-half inch to boost aerodynamics. Inside the cabin, you’ll find all the amenities typically associated with the Jaguar name. Thanks to acoustically laminated front side glass and windshield and fullframe doors, road and wind noise is remarkably hushed. A pair of center touch screens—a main 10-inch screen and a secondary 5.5-inch unit—house the infotainment system and climate controls. Soft, double-needle-stitched leather seats can be electronically heated or cooled. And speaking of temperature, I-Pace drivers will be wise to download the corresponding smartphone app, which can remotely set the temperature of the interior without using battery power. An old adage suggests that sometimes less is more. Without an engine, the I-Pace offers fewer mechanical components for a driver to interact (play) with. No worries. This isn’t a sports car; it’s a high-tech, sporty electric SUV.

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brush strokes

artistic

MUSINGS

ike pop art pioneer Andy Warhol, artist Paul Gerben is widely acclaimed for his mixed media portraits of past and present cultural icons. His legendary subjects include Mick and Keith, Clint Eastwood, The Beatles, Bob Dylan, Bob Marley; the list goes on. Yet despite unquestionable commercial success and a vast body of work, Gerben remains humble and greatly excited about his future. On his recently released portraits of Bruce Lee (one of his childhood heroes; he practiced martial arts as a kid) and Jerry Garcia, Gerben confides, “I tried dozens of ideas for these two portraits over a period of several years but, unhappy with those attempts, I didn’t release them until I hit that emotional high when it finally felt right. I can’t sell a piece of art that I don’t personally love.” These days, Gerben is gearing up for the release of his upcoming book depicting one-ofa-kind portraits created from his own photos of A-list stars: Robert De Niro, Lionel Richie, Jewel, Gerard Butler, Michael B. Jordan and more. He starts the creative process with a simple photograph that he takes with a small point-and-shoot Leica using natural light. His goal: “To capture that perfect unplanned

moment” with minimal interruption or artifice. “Things like technical lighting and makeup artists distract from the natural progression of the shoot,” Gerben maintains. To the photograph, he adds color, pattern, texture, newspaper print, collage, graphics—whatever he feels best captures the raw energy and intrinsic character of the subject. Gerben is often called upon by A-listers to paint commissioned portraits. Although best known for his portraiture, Gerben spent the first 25 years of his career working as a graphic designer and photographer, which he leaned on to create “Circle of Love,” a collection of sculptures that was launched at Art Hamptons in 2015 and sold out at the VIP party on opening night. “I started thinking maybe I should do something with my many years of graphic design experience. I realized there hadn’t been an iconic LOVE sculpture since [the late] Robert Indiana’s internationally acclaimed work in the ’60s. So, combining the influence of Damien Hirst’s spots paintings with Indiana’s LOVE, I designed the ‘Circle of Love’ sculpture. I trade-

marked the logo, started with limited edition sculptures and print art, and ultimately produced a jewelry line that I consider wearable art. I’m selling to collectors from New York to London to Tokyo; it seems that people around the world still crave love....” Pondering the quintessential question about art, Gerben contemplates its intrinsic value. “There’s no definitive answer, but I’d say we need art to add beauty to our lives, to

“I can’t sell a piece of art that I don’t personally love....” connect us with personal passions, to uplift our souls. Just as food stimulates our taste and music amplifies our hearing, art intensifies our visual acuity, helping us see the world in new ways. It’s more intuitive than rational: You don’t always know why a certain work speaks to you—whether it’s the subject matter, the composition, the colors—but if it touches you, it should become part of your life. As an art collector myself, I tend to choose art by what I see, not by what I hear or read.”

Paul Gerben’s portraits feature cultural icons, including (opposite page, clockwise from top) Robert Kennedy, Marilyn Monroe and Bruce Lee.

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A next-generation Warholian artist reflects on why art matters in the modern world. By Karen Alberg Grossman

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island of

PEACE

Strife-torn for years, Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean now beckons with beauty, history and tranquility. By Everett Potter

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PHOTO CREDIT

There is a magical island of untrammeled beaches and dense jungles that is just awakening from years of conflict. A place of pristine white Buddhist stupas (mounds used for meditation) coexisting with outlandishly decorated Hindu temples. A country where colonial plantations still produce some of the world’s finest tea, cricket matches punctuate a sleepy Sunday afternoon, and leopards and elephants roam the national parks. Dubbed “India’s teardrop” because of its distinctive shape, Sri Lanka does resemble a freshly shed tear lying off the subcontinent’s southeastern tip. Like India, it was once a British colony—it gained independence in 1948. continued...

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I’m speaking, of course, of Sri Lanka. Known until 1972 as Ceylon, Sri Lanka is an island nation of more than 20 million that is just a bit bigger than West Virginia. Exotic beauty and rich culture aside, there is one key reason why it has been on the minds of luxury travelers lately: It is no longer a country at war with itself. For 26 years, Sri Lanka was essentially a no-go zone because of a civil war that finally ended in 2009. And amid that turmoil came the great tsunami of 2004, which also inflicted great damage and set the country back. Now, a decade after the truce, this exotic Indian Ocean nation attracts backpackers looking for the next great surf break, spiritual types in search of

enlightenment and a new breed of traveler seeking freshly built luxury lodging at old tea plantations in the mountains and along the myriad white sand beaches. There’s no upside to any war, but one effect of the strife was that for 26 years, development was basically nonexistent, preserving much of the country as it was pre-1983. Only now are resort properties being constructed. The overdevelopment afflicting some other countries in Southeast Asia is not an issue here. Instead, Sri Lanka is a time warp, a pastiche of colonial remnants and centuries-old cultures set against a vivid blue sea, lush jungle and paddy fields. I made a game of spotting old British postal boxes and clock towers around the island,

This page from top: Samosas are a ubiquitous Sri Lankan snack. Elaborate and spiritually resonant temples abound on this island nation—even tucked away in caves. Opposite page: A young Buddhist monk peeks outside a monastery door.

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details from a period PBS series that’s yet to be made. Some of the plantations still look like 19th-century stage sets, echoing a time when tea from Ceylon was an ever-present prize of the British colonial empire, grown by an elite group of planters who lived high up in the island’s hills. The island’s palette is one of multiple shades of green, punctuated by bursts of frangipani and bougainvillea blooming in profusion, a veritable Garden of Eden. Like all great tropical gardens, it yields up edibles such as mangoes, papayas and bananas. Wherever I traveled in the country, I tasted the local varieties of fruits and then fell in love with earthier Sri Lankan specialties, such as fresh crab curry and coconut sambal, best consumed with an ice-cold Royal Pilsner. But most of all, I loved the layers of history and culture that I found as I ventured around the island, discovering the people of Sri Lanka to be among the friendliest of anywhere I’ve traveled. I set my own itinerary, as you might, and it’s best done with a hired car and driver, since the roads and the driving are both highly challenging. The beaches are still quite beautiful, and not overrun as so many beaches now are in Southeast Asia. Outside of sometimes frenetic Colombo, tourism is still a new business for many islanders. But with the civil war now history, there’s a building boom on some of the better spots on the island. For now, the best of the new properties are small, luxury boutique hotels with great spas, beaches and views. That said, I started with one of the country’s venerable hotels, the Galle Face in Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital. The hotel dates from 1864 and was recently upgraded. You can indulge at the new L’Occitane spa or simply gaze out at the sea as I did while listening to the nightly bagpipe serenade that accompanies the lowering of the flag. From there, I headed south to Kalutara, a lively beach city clogged with noisy tuk-tuks (three-wheeled auto rickshaws). Near here is one of the island’s best hotels, the 152-room Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, set on a coconut plantation overlooking the Indian Ocean. This is where relaxation comes in the form of Ayurvedic spa treatments, Sri Lankan cooking classes and daily beachfront yoga and meditation

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This page: Local stilt fishermen are perched above the clear water break. Opposite page: The majestic Sri Lankan elephants are the largest elephant subspecies in Asia and protected by Sri Lankan law. Killing one carries the death penalty.

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instruction. It’s a great base for exploring nearby beaches and tea plantations, as well as visiting Udawalawe National Park, which has the island’s greatest concentration of elephants. When it was time to head upcountry to see a bit of the interior, I went for a bit of “glamping” at the Madulkelle Tea & Eco Lodge, not far from Kandy. Its 18 luxury “tents” offer panoramic views of the Knuckle Mountains and neighboring tea plantations. I also visited the ancient city of Anuradhapura, filled with 2,000-year-old monasteries and temples under canopies of banyan trees. One highlight of my trip had to be a guided tour of Yala National Park, the country’s second-largest park, where I saw small herds of elephants as well as crocodiles and leopards, the latter more profuse here than virtually anywhere else in the world. The birds were

too numerous to count, but among them were great stone curlews and black-necked storks. Yet virtually every town I visited in Sri Lanka had various species of monkeys and exotic birdlife as a backdrop. It took a local to point out that I was seeing—among other creatures—hornbills, crested serpent eagles and bee-eaters. One of my favorite stops was the city of Galle, which has a wondrous old town that reminded me a bit of Zanzibar—a maze of streets filled with tiny shops selling spices and jewelry. I also explored the Galle Fort, a 16th-century Portuguese fortification that is a UNESCO-designated World Heritage site and, perhaps, the most famous site on the island. The international crowd is here in force, as are the cafes, bars and galleries to serve them. Outside of Galle, I stayed at Tri, an

eco-hideaway on the banks of Koggala Lake. Then I moved to Camp Weligama, which offers luxury accommodations on the beach. The sound of surf and my attempts at surfing kept me busy for a few days. The most remarkable thing I saw was a group of traditional stilt fishermen, balanced on stilts and casting their rods. Slow morning swims got me in the mood for yet another tranquil day in paradise. It’s clear that more hotel development is coming to Sri Lanka. A country this pristine and beautiful is simply too tempting for those in the business of tourism. So my sage advice is to go now, to move Sri Lanka up a few notches on your bucket list, to stay in these amazing boutique properties and immerse yourself in the Indian Ocean. It’s a lush, fragrant and sensual country that gives Bali a run for its money.

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bodies in

MOTION

Today’s luxury lightweight performance fabrics won’t slow you down, and they’ll keep you looking sharp.

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Who would have thought donning a navy suit could feel so freeing? Cotton stretch chalk-stripe jogger suit and Giza cotton sweatshirt by Eleventy. Loafers by Trask.

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Not your father’s navy blazer, this unstructured jacket is crafted in Italy from Dustin cashmere knit with stretch. Perfect with dress pants or jeans, this sportcoat will take you anywhere. Sportcoat, shirt and jeans by Isaia.

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The advanced technology used in this knit polo allows moisture to evaporate from your body into the air so you won’t feel sweaty while hitting birdies or slamming aces. Shirt and pants by Isaia.

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Luxury knit joggers are comfortable enough to sleep in while stylish enough to wear out and about. And yes, they pair well with tailored clothing so you can change up your office garb. Jacket, drawstring sweatpants and polo shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna and loafers by Magnanni.

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Sportcoat or cardigan? You decide. This unstructured miracle of Italian tailoring will be the most comfortable and versatile garment you’ll ever wear. Sportcoat and shirt by Samuelsohn and pants by Eleventy.

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tee time

6 COURSES you must play “Bucket list”? That’s too long-term. Grab your clubs and hurry to these great places as soon as you can. By Marty Hackel

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ould you believe that Rickie Fowler has never played any of the courses at Bandon Dunes Resort? Or that Greg Norman has never played Pine Valley? It’s true. Any discussion of courses we love usually ends with confessions about the ones we’ve not played yet. Heck, one of my golfing buddies, Peter, has played 94 of the Golf Digest Top 100, and even he can rattle off 10+ courses he still needs to add to his list. But it would be a crying shame to go much longer without trying the six courses I offer here. These special places are accessible to all golfers, as they are public. Most you’ve heard of, but they may include a surprise or two. And while some are handier to reach than others, all are worth the trip. There are nine-hole courses and even a putting course that in my opinion are just as much fun as the classic 18-hole layouts. Golf should be about the experience, not the number of holes you play.

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PINEHURST RESORT, PINEHURST, NORTH CAROLINA

A visit to Pinehurst is de rigueur, as there are at least six courses here that one should experience. My first priority would be Pinehurst course No. 2, a Donald Ross masterpiece that has seen numerous renovations, with the last one completed by Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw in 2010. Following the elimination of the Bermuda grass rough and the introduction of native hardpan sand with wiregrass, the course has a more natural feel and offers a great challenge, as evidenced by the 2014 U.S. Open for both women and men. A caddie here will increase your enjoyment of this great track. Pinehurst course No. 4 has recently benefited from a wonderful renovation by Gil Hanse, and now it is a worthy companion to No. 2. A fun fact here is that Hanse occupied the home of Ross while he was on the property. Hanse and his team also created a cool nine-hole short course called “The Cradle,” which is an ideal complement to other courses in the Pinehurst complex. When you arrive at the resort you will see what was the first miniature golf course in the U.S. Created in 1916 by James Barber, it offers the entire family a fun introduction to this historic resort. To be honest, there’s also another reason I love visiting here: The pancakes at the Pinehurst Resort are world-class.

ST. ANDREWS & KINGSBARNS, FIFE, SCOTLAND

Would any list be complete without “The Home of Golf ”? This one requires a hop across the ocean, but it’s eminently worth it. Once you’re here, there’s much to be said for starting at the beginning—St. Andrews’ Old Course, which dates back to the 15th century. You can feel the wonderful history, and with the clubhouse of The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews as a backdrop, the first tee shot will give you chills. There are six more links in St. Andrews providing a palette of amazing landscape to experience here. Close by is Kingsbarns, where the duo Mark Parsinen and Kyle Phillips shaped a masterpiece on land that was mined during World War II. The views from this venue are memorable, and the par 3 15th that plays over a rocky inlet (where the wind is most always present) may be your Kodak moment. Besides golf, the town of St. Andrews has many great restaurants and shops, as well as Fisher & Donaldson, which might be the best pastry shop you will ever visit. (In my book a great cinnamon bun is a fine reward for walking 18.)

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SAND VALLEY GOLF RESORT, NEKOOSA, WISCONSIN

Then there’s the Badger State, with both old and new courses to try. For the latter, it’s time again to thank Mike Kaiser (the developer of Bandon Dunes) along with Craig Haltom, who recognized that this land had unlimited potential. And thank you, Michael and Chris Keiser (Mike Keiser’s sons), for delivering what Golf Digest has recognized as the “best new course of 2017.” Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw were entrusted with the responsibility of designing the first course (May 2017), and while they moved more earth here than at Sand Hills, their award-winning private course in Nebraska, the Sand Valley course fits the land like a great jigsaw puzzle. The sand here is employed in many different ways, from bunkers to waste areas, and I can assure you that you will use every club in your bag. The second course at Sand Valley is Mammoth Dunes by David McLay Kidd, and it showcases Kidd’s maturity and style. The 14th hole was created with the design help of a Golf Digest “armchair architect” contest. Brian Silvernail, a graphic designer from Florida, presented the winning entry, and it’s a beauty. This drivable downhill par 4 has a sloping fairway and a Redan-style green (unusual for a par 4 hole). If you are skilled or lucky enough to drive into the speed slot on the right, you will be rewarded with a ball close to the green. Add a 17-hole par 3 course (by Coore and Crenshaw) and you will have a perfect couple of days of great golf and fun.

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LAWSONIA LINKS, GREEN LAKE, WISCONSIN

Make this your next Wisconsin stop. Lawsonia Links, designed in the 1930s by William Langford and Theodore Moreau, is a must-visit for sure. The layout will test your short game, as the elevated greens and mounds will challenge your shot-making skills. Pro tip: You’ll want to practice your bunker shots before arriving.

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BANDON DUNES GOLF RESORT, BANDON, OREGON

With five distinctly different golf courses and a great par 3 track, this resort is the perfect starting point. Every golfer owes a debt to Mike Keiser, who had the courage and conviction to find an area on the Oregon coast that was ideal for a unique golf experience. The first course, Bandon Dunes by David McLay Kidd, opened in 1999 and showcases this property’s magnificent dunes and ocean views. When Tom Doak’s Pacific Dunes course debuted in 2001, it was amazing that a second course could be created on the same land with such a different feel. Then in 2005 came the opening of Bandon Trails, fashioned by architects Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, and we all started to believe that this was indeed a special area that could be developed in many different ways. Old Macdonald (my favorite) opened in 2015. Here designers Doak and Jim Urbina approached their task by asking, “What would the great Charles Blair Macdonald have created on this land?”—Macdonald being one of the premier course architects of the early 20th century. Old Macdonald is a great walk (all of the courses at Bandon should be experienced walking) on a huge canvas of land. For example, the first hole provides an expansive fairway to hit, and it’s only when you arrive for your second shot that you realize the difficulty lies ahead with an elevated green. The journey continues with a unique collection, each respecting Macdonald’s genius. The trend-setting Bandon Preserve (Coore and Crenshaw) par 3 course opened in 2012, with all of the proceeds going to the Wild Rivers Coast Alliance, an organization that supports conservation, community and the economy on the southern Oregon coast. The first time you play you will be smiling for the rest of the day, as each hole has a twist or turn or slope and elevation to challenge your short-game skills. If ever a course were to be compared to an Easter egg hunt, this would be it. It’s only toward the end that you notice there are only 13 holes. I guarantee you will not care.

SILVIES VALLEY RANCH, SENECA, OREGON

Oregon again? Sure—the state has some of the best land in the country for golf, and Silvies Valley Ranch, situated 300+ miles from Portland and 200 miles from Boise, makes my list, as it’s big (100,000+ acres) and offers many activities beyond golf. When the goats (3,000) outnumber the local residents, you know this is not a typical golf course. Oh, and by the way, you can even use one of the goats as a caddie, as Akbar Chisti, the founder of Seamus Golf, has designed a unique golf bag specifically for this purpose! Architect Dan Hixson created two 18-hole layouts, which are played on alternate days, allowing you to play the course in both directions. Hixson’s excellent par 3 layouts are especially great and add to the fun of playing here. Don’t forget to sample the farm-to-table cuisine at Silvies and enjoy the many available nongolf activities, such as hiking, biking and horseback riding. Does this exhaust my list of great courses? No way—there are many more, with Bethpage Black in Farmingdale, N.Y., and Pebble Beach in Pebble Beach, Calif., as additional standouts I can’t neglect to mention. It’s also great to play a course that has recently hosted a major, because if you watched the tournament you’ll have enhanced knowledge of the venue. But the half-dozen venues I’ve described here are great for starters. Make sure, if you can, that they don’t linger long on your “not yet” list.

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gourmet

a marvelous

MUSHROOM!

Beloved by chefs, the morel can make an ordinary meal special—or a special meal sublime. By Nayda Rondon

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s plant-based entrées are embraced by the haute cuisine scene, there is one particular mushroom top chefs and diners love to see take center plate— morels. These darlings of French cooking have been called “the sacred mushroom” because of their powerfully woodsy and nutty flavor. Even those who typically find mushrooms to be too slippery or slimy can’t resist morels’ meaty texture. Morels look more like sea creatures than the typical button-capped forest fungi, such as Portobello and cremini. They have a distinctive, honeycomb-like conical body, swirling pits and ridges. The luxurious morel, or morchella, is closely related to the truffle; like the truffle, it is the fruit of a fungus that flourishes in moist woods and forests. They are difficult to cultivate, making them a prize for many chefs­—their relative rarity adds to the appeal of these shrooms. The morel industry is truly wild—morels are not farmed, but foraged in nature. Like tulips, they are harbingers of spring and best enjoyed fresh between March and May. They also can be dried and stored to be savored during the summer, fall and winter. Because of the complex, symbiotic relationship between morels and the surrounding trees and forest life, the ideal growing conditions are difficult to replicate in an artificial environment. Morels thrive in moist soil—often under fallen trees—in woods or forests. They have been found in all 50 states, but Michigan and other Midwest states are especially morel-rich. South-facing hillsides are favored and sites of recent forest fires also are good bets for finding this variety of mushroom. Throughout history, culture and

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art, mushrooms have been portrayed as delicious, magical, intoxicating and sometimes even deadly. This is also true for the precious morel. The delicacy’s close, similar-looking cousin, the “false morel,” can be highly toxic and in some cases, even lethal. To avoid reenacting a poisonous love scene out of The Phantom Thread, it is wise to leave the foraging to the professionals. In addition to tasting good, these fabulous fungi are healthy. They contain significant amounts of iron, copper, manganese, vitamin D and more. Plus, they’re loaded with antioxidants and are high in both protein and fiber. Looking for a way to enjoy these superstar shrooms this season? Chef Geoffrey Zakarian, a 2011 winner on the Food Network’s The Next Iron Chef, recommends slowly cooking fresh morels over low heat in a bed of shallots livened up with a splash of Madeira wine, a dab of salted Irish butter and a sprinkle of fresh tarragon leaves. Alex Guarnaschelli, Iron Chef America 2012 winner and executive chef at New York City’s Butter restaurant, likes to first sweat some minced shallots that have been generously buttered and salted before adding the morels and salting again. She says not to stir; instead, allow them to sweat on low heat for about 10 minutes. Add in some dry vermouth and slowly simmer over low heat until the liquid evaporates. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool. Heat a sauté pan, add butter and let it brown before adding the morels and allowing these to brown as well. Add a squeeze of lemon. The morel of the story? You can search out—or create—many more recipes that bring out the marvel in morels.

MOREL IMPERATIVES

THE HUNT: These mushrooms require very specific growing conditions, and finding them has become almost a competitive sport. But forager, beware! Before heading out, thoroughly educate yourself by reading up on distinguishing characteristics to identify them—and looking at photos. Check for a distinct cap, and remember that a true morel will be hollow from inside the cap tip to the stem bottom. DON’T take any chances, especially if you’re a novice morel hunter. And we can’t emphasize this enough: Newbies should always go with an experienced hunter who will show them the ropes and vouch for the safety of their finds. THE HARVEST: You can take the uncertainty and danger out of the experience by growing and cultivating your own fresh—and safe—stash of morel mushrooms. There are several kits on the market. Check out The Morel Habitat Kit (available at gmushrooms.com/ Morel/), which supplies you with seeds to grow pounds of morel mushrooms in your own earth-friendly, sustainable and organic perennial morel mushroom garden. THE PREP: Thoroughly clean your morels with repeated soaks in cold water. Brush off any lingering soil and, to make sure you get rid of any persistent critters that may be lingering, try adding a splash of vinegar to the water. To freshen up dried morels, simply soak them in water for 15 to 20 minutes or until the mushrooms are tender (soft, not mushy). Then presto, they’re ready for preparation! Be sure to keep the soaking liquid, as it’s packed with flavor and can be used as a sauce, a soup or a flavoring for a risotto.

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cheers

some like IT HOT

Summer can be an ideal time for adventurous cocktail concoctions that really spice things up. By Daria Meoli

I

ndian vindaloo, Ethiopian doro wat, Mexican chilate de pollo—have you ever wondered why some of the spiciest flavors originate in cuisines from the warmest climates? Super-spicy dishes actually can be refreshing on a sweltering summer night— and the same holds true for cocktails with a kick. Ingredients with heat increase circulation and raise body temperature, helping the body adapt to warm weather. Like a bowl of chili at an August barbecue, piquant potions can be—ironically—quite invigorating when it’s hot and steamy out. Libations made with sriracha, wasabi and other hot mixers can hit the spot in summertime. On the tail of last year’s turmeric trend, top mixologists and bartenders are looking to bring even more internationally inspired heat to their repertoire. They are exploring creative ways to balance savory spice with citrus and herbal notes (think tequila infused with serrano chiles mixed with fresh cucumber juice, basil, lemon and agave). At BlackTail, the Cuban-themed New York City watering hole named “Best New Cocktail Bar in America” at the 2017 Spirited Awards, the bar team continuously reviews their cocktails to make sure they give guests the kick they crave. They’ve added heat to Manhattans, pineappletequila sours and cucumber Collins. Behind the bar, they stock spicy bitters (Hellfire Bitters, Jamaican Jerk Bitters) and house-made infusions (Scotch bonnet oloroso sherry, ancho chile sweet vermouth and jalapeño gin) as well as bottles of Ancho Reyes Verde and St. George Green Chile Vodka. For recreational mixologists, there are many ways to add heat to favorite recipes at

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home. Spice up a tried-and-true margarita by swapping out traditional salt for dried and ground chipotle or put pepper-infused salt around the rim of the glass. Top off the five o’clock martini or traditional old-fashioned with a splash of habanero bitters or hot sauce. Hot peppers cause an endorphin release, and one way to chase a blissed-out, capsaicin-induced high is to make ice from hot-pepper-infused water. Add thin slices of jalapeños or cayenne peppers in one or two cups of water for about half an hour. Remove the pepper slices and use that water to fill an ice cube tray. Toss the cubes in a rocks glass with your favorite whiskey, tequila or vodka. As the cubes melt, you’ll really begin to feel that good kind of burn at the back of your throat. Talk about fire and ice! The best approach to experimenting with heat is to start conservatively, because alcohol intensifies the flavor of spices. “Different proof bases can extract different amounts of spice from specific ingredients,” says Will Pasternak, head bartender at BlackTail. “A higher proof base (like a 40 percent ABV gin) will extract much more spice than a less alcoholic base (like a 17 percent ABV vermouth). We use different quantities of alcohol to get the precise level of heat we want.” If your spicy kick inadvertently turns into a five-alarm blaze, add some agave syrup—the sweetness will counterbalance the heat. Should the occasion call for a more elaborate—and adventurous—cocktail, there are many delicious ways to bring the heat. We asked three expert mixologists how they play with fire to create spicy summer cocktails, and each shared a favorite recipe.

THE GARDEN PALOMA

Created by Meaghan Dorman of Raines Law Room, New York City

Move over, margarita. La paloma is the most popular tequila-based cocktail in Mexico. A traditional la paloma (which translates to “the dove”) is a simple and refreshing option that combines grapefruit juice, lime juice and tequila with club soda. But at Raines Law Room, a renowned New York City speakeasy named for an ill-fated 1896 law intended to curb city residents’ liquor consumption, bar director Meaghan Dorman adds house-made jalapeño agave syrup to create a paloma that is más caliente. For the cocktail: 2 oz blanco tequila 1 oz fresh grapefruit juice ½ oz fresh lime juice 2 dashes celery bitters ¾ oz jalapeño agave syrup 2 oz club soda Pinch of sea salt Lime wedge For the jalapeño agave syrup: 5 jalapeño peppers, sliced 2 cups boiling water 2 cups agave syrup  To make the jalapeño agave syrup, muddle peppers into a paste in a heatproof bowl or other container. Pour boiling water over peppers and stir in agave syrup. Let steep for 20 minutes, then strain.  For the cocktail, add tequila, grapefruit juice, lime juice, celery bitters and jalapeño agave syrup to shaker filled with ice. Shake until well chilled and strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top the cocktail off with club soda and garnish with a pinch of sea salt and lime wedge.

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DATE IN INDIA

Created by Raul Ayala of Dirty Habit, San Francisco

Created by Adam Dreyer of The Bad Apple, Chicago

At Dirty Habit, a restaurant and lounge on the fifth floor of the Hotel Palomar, bar manager Raul Ayala favors mixing brown aged spirits with fruity and smoky flavors, like dried chiles, and clear spirits with fresh green heat, such as serrano peppers, for an earthy, herbal touch. One concoction in particular—Date in India—keeps returning to the cocktail menu due to high demand. It’s a culture clash in a glass, blending Thai kaffir lime leaves, Mexican chile de arbol peppers and a liqueur made from Croatian cherries. This fire starter has all the makings for an exotic and memorable summer cocktail hour.

Adam Dreyer, bar manager at The Bad Apple in Chicago, draws inspiration from the fresh ingredients his kitchen procures from nearby farms. The Calvin and Habanero is one popular cocktail that got its start in the kitchen. “Our chef brought in some blackberries and black raspberries and our chef made a habanero and berry hot sauce,” says Dreyer. “We took it a step further by fashioning a cocktail inspired by the flavors in this spicy yet refreshing hot sauce our kitchen cooked up.” Though this tequila-based drink is named for a cartoon boy and his imaginary tiger friend, the heat in this cocktail isn’t child’s play. Dreyer infuses tequila with habaneros because they are not only one of the spiciest peppers, but also have a floral essence.

For the cocktail: 1.5 oz Del Maguey VIDA Mezcal ¾ oz fresh-squeezed lime juice ¾ oz spicy tamarind syrup ½ oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur Dehydrated orange slice Black Tajin-inspired seasoning For the spicy tamarind syrup: 1½ cups tamarind purée 1½ cups sugar 2 oz ginger (clean and chopped) 3 kaffir lime leaves 3 pieces chile de arbol (also known as bird’s beak chiles) For the black Tajin-inspired seasoning: 1 tsp. chili powder ½ tsp. chipotle powder 2 tsp. salt ½ tsp. activated charcoal For the syrup, combine all of the ingredients for the spicy tamarind syrup in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let the mixture cool, then strain. Combine all ingredients for the Tajin-inspired seasoning. When you are ready to make the cocktail, combine all the ingredients—including the spicy tamarind syrup—and shake. Double-strain the mixture, then serve in a double old-fashioned glass and garnish with a dehydrated orange slice and black Tajin-inspired seasoning.

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THE CALVIN AND HABANERO

For the cocktail: 1½ oz habanero-infused blanco tequila 1 oz blackberry syrup or purée 1 oz lemon juice Ginger beer to taste For the habanero-infused blanco tequila: 4 habanero peppers 1 bottle of blanco tequila For the blackberry syrup or purée: 1 cup blackberries 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 Tbsp. sugar To infuse the tequila, cut 4 habaneros in half, add to one bottle of tequila. Let it sit for 4 hours and then strain. Some batches of peppers are spicier than others, so taste the infusion as it sits. To make the blackberry syrup or purée, add the berries to a saucepan with lemon juice and sugar. Mash the berries a bit and let them macerate before turning on the heat. Once the sugar has brought out some of the berries’ juices, turn the heat on medium. Let the mixture simmer for about 10 minutes, then remove from heat. After it cools, either blend the mixture and serve as a purée or put it through a strainer and use just the syrup. Add all ingredients and some ice to a small shaker. Shake then pour into a glass rimmed with salt and top with ginger beer.

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fitness

take a

HIKE

On trails like these six you’ll reap benefits physically, mentally, spiritually—and scenically. By Daria Meoli

H

iking is having a moment. Whether it’s the exercise or the pure fresh air folks crave—or simply a brief, scenic escape from routine—record numbers are enjoying this outdoor activity, from Snow Lake Trail near Seattle to the end of the Appalachian Trail at Mount Katahdin in Maine. Hiking can be a strenuous challenge. But even at its most leisurely it gets you off the couch—and into nature. It requires stability, mobility, endurance and strength, and has many fitness benefits. Just one hour of trekking can burn up to 500 calories, depending on the incline level and the load being carried. While hiking is a powerful cardio workout, the trails are also less taxing on your joints than asphalt or concrete, making this activity more forgiving on ankles and knees than running. The sport builds strength in your glutes, quads, hamstrings, hips and lower legs while boosting bone density and improving blood pressure. It may even be a cancer fighter: According to a study published in the International Journal of Sports Medicine, long-distance hiking trips may improve antioxidative capacity, which helps fight off disease. Being out in the wild, away from everyday stress factors and tech toys, can get your mind and spirit in better shape too. It can increase attention span and boost creative problem-solving. Hiking is a proven meditative activity because the repetitive motion of strides is calming; it decreases stress response and lowers the body’s cortisol levels. Some studies show that people regularly exposed to natural surroundings have decreased depression, anxiety, cognitive decline, headaches and inflammation. Some fitness experts predict that hiking will become more popular than yoga as a stress-busting workout. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned hiker, there are magnificent trails all across the country that will get your heart pumping vigorously while you enjoy spectacular views. Here are a standout half-dozen.*

*Trail difficulty rankings are sourced from Alltrails.com, an off-road recreation website.

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MCWAY FALLS OVERLOOK TRAIL, JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK Big Sur, California

HOH RIVER TRAIL, OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK Forks, Washington

Along the storied California coast between Los Angeles and San Francisco lies Big Sur, a jewel of the Pacific Coast. This trail offers a nearly flat stroll that ends with flawless views of the iconic McWay Falls. Here, water drops 80 feet from a granite cliff into a sandy cove below and flows into the mighty Pacific Ocean. And also check out the one-mile Partington Cove Trail, also in the park. This steep but short hike will take you across a rustic wooden bridge, then down a 60-foot tunnel where you emerge onto the park’s only beach access. Confirm that the trails are open before heading to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, as recent wildfires may have closed some of them.

The scenery along this route can best be described as an enchanted forest. Winding through one of the few true rainforests left on the planet, the Hoh River Trail features moss-covered stones along the picturesque river, ancient trees towering over beds of ferns and Roosevelt elk feeding in meadows with sweeping mountain views. Most of the trail is flat and appropriate for all fitness levels. However, the last five miles become more strenuous, so beginners may want to plan to end their hike near Five Mile Island or Lewis Meadow. For more seasoned hikers looking to push through, the payoff is huge. From here it’s nine more miles to the Blue Glacier Overlook, where visitors see an impressive slab of a glacier along the side of Mount Olympus.

Difficulty Level: Easy

Difficulty Level: Easy to Moderate

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WEST BEACH TRAIL, INDIANA DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE Porter, Indiana

WAVE TRAIL,VERMILION CLIFFS NATIONAL MONUMENT Kanab, Utah

Located just 50 miles south of Chicago along beautiful Lake Michigan, Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore offers raw coastal beauty and a variety of habitats. Visitors can access the lakeshore by car or by boat. The West Beach Trail System offers hikers unique bird-watching, secluded pathways lined with wildflowers and jack pines and, of course, one-of-a-kind water views from a succession of colossal dunes. This trail system has two different hikes—a three-and-a-half-mile trek that takes about three hours or a one-mile hike that can be done in about an hour. Summer hikers should pack a bathing suit. After a good walking workout, visitors can cool down in the lake or just relax on the sandy beach.

With its swirling red sandstone walls, Antelope Canyon in Page, Arizona, is one of the most surreal scenes in the country. But interest in this iconic slot canyon is so high that visitors must explore with a guide and contend with crowds at any time of year. However, the Wave Trail across the Utah border in Vermilion Cliffs National Monument offers hikers a similarly psychedelic environment without the crowds (only 20 people are given permits to hike this trail per day) and an opportunity to be active. The desert trail starts at Coyote Buttes and winds through enormous Navajo sandstone walls made of curvy layers of red, pink and yellow rock. More experienced hikers should continue the adventure down the trail to see more unbelievable rock formations and stellar views, such as Top Arch and Melody Arch. Apply for a permit in advance at the Bureau of Land Management’s official website. The out-of-this-world location is worth the extra planning.

Difficulty Level: Moderate

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Difficulty Level: Moderate

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MARYLAND HEIGHTS LOOP, HARPERS FERRY NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK Harpers Ferry, West Virginia

SAM’S POINT AND VERKEERDERKILL FALLS TRAIL Cragsmoor, New York

History buffs will especially love this Mid-Atlantic hiking trail. The loop starts and finishes in the quaint West Virginia village of Harpers Ferry. The town itself is a National Historic Park, brimming with 19th-century architecture, museums, exhibits, trades workshops and living history events. The hiking trail passes the remains of a naval artillery battery built in 1862 and a Union army fort built in 1863. Other Civil War remnants seen along the way include ammunition pits and breastworks. The path gets more intense as you climb cliffs that overlook Harpers Ferry with stunning views of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. After a strenuous hike, visitors can reward themselves at True Treats Historic Candy, a store near the trail’s end in downtown Harpers Ferry that specializes in sweets from the 1500s through the mid-1900s.

The star of this hike is the Verkeerderkill Falls, where a 180foot waterfall drops to the bottom of an isolated canyon. Access to cliffs around the canyon is unfettered, and hikers feel as though they are the first humans to discover the scene. Spring and summer are the best times of year to see the falls in full, rushing glory. Hikers can also climb down steep rock and a series of ladders for a third of a mile into ice caves cold enough to hold snow through July. The trail winds through an endangered dwarf pitch pine barren and abandoned berry-picker shacks, remnants of a time when the area was known for wild blueberry gathering. Hikers mount several cliffs—including Sam’s Point—for views of High Point Monument in New Jersey, the Hudson Valley and the Catskill Mountains.

Difficulty Level: Difficult

Difficulty Level: Difficult

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grooming

HAIRLINE Cutting and trimming the hair on your head should be left to the experts for obvious reasons, but you can maintain a wellgroomed hairline in between cuts. How? By washing your hair every two to three days rather than daily and by not weighing it down with too many products. These practices not only keep hair healthier, but also make it look thicker, thus helping to disguise receding hairlines. A bit of pomade and a comb—or your fingers—is all that’s needed to maintain your hairline on a daily basis, but you can also keep a small electric razor handy for when you need to tidy up around the edges. EYEBROWS The number-one rule for grooming your brows? Don’t overdo it. That means keeping their natural, straight shape—arched brows have a more feminine look—and only getting rid of the stragglers. To avoid the dreaded unibrow, start by placing your finger on the bridge of your nose and plucking only the hairs your finger touches. Then maintain the shape and look of the brows by trimming monthly or so; just brush hairs upwards and snip only the ends (or have your barber do it for you). Tweezing carefully and sparingly with an angled tweezer is an option too, but under no circumstances should you wax those bad boys just because the lady in your life is doing it. You’ve been warned. BEARD Once your beard has reached the desired length, train the hairs to grow in a downward direction by brushing daily with a boar bristle brush. Then use grooming scissors or an electric razor with the guard setting of your choice once a week or so to trim and get rid of split ends and strays. Just make sure you do so with the grain to minimize bumps and irritation. Finally, keep your beard and mustache clean by rinsing with a beard wash or mild soap and water two to three times a week—and add a moisturizing beard oil when you’re feeling fancy (or itchy).

Splitting

HAIRS

Tonsorially uncertain? Here’s how to trim—and buzz—and brush—and tweeze to look your best.

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CHEST Similar rules apply when going below the neck; always trim—do not shave, please—with the grain to reduce irritation. But how low should you go? There’s no harm in manscaping down to your belly button—“happy trail” included—but make sure the amount of hair on your torso matches with the amount on your face. You don’t want to be scruffy up top and resemble a boy bander below the neck, do you? Also, start with a higher guard setting when buzzing here. You can always go back in for another round later if it’s still too scraggly, but you can’t undo a too-short style.

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shirt TALES

Your style. Your comfort. Your exact fit. Made-to-measure is a shirt story that always has a happy ending. By Darius Amos Don’t get us wrong: We love off-the-rack garments, and they can create memorable looks. But face it—those shirts don’t fit like a made-to-measure shirt. Not every guy is an average Joe, so standard retail sizes and designs won’t always cut it. Because made-to-measure is based on your measurements, each shirt is guaranteed to fit perfectly. We offer made-to-measure shirts from some of the world’s finest designers—Ermenegildo Zegna, Eton and Isaia to name a few—in addition to the country’s top dedicated shirtmakers. Each of the renowned brands has its own distinctive style, and we know you do too. So what do you have to do to get your unique piece? That’s easy: Let us do the work. A common misconception is that made-to-measure is a complicated and costly proposition. That’s not at all true. We partner with makers to offer options at several price points, making it accessible for everyone. Here’s how it works: Our made-to-measure experts will talk to you about your personal style, fit, details and occasion. We will take you through the seemingly countless number of options to design exactly what you have in mind. Whether it’s formal, business or casual—we can do it all. THE PROCESS First, our tailors will take all your measurements—chest, neck, shoulders, arms, biceps (have you been working out?), waistline, the works. Next, you’ll select the material that will eventually go on your back and whether your shirt will be a single solid color or two tones, adorned with elegant stripes, boast a nice checked pattern or more. Our wide assortment of fabrics comes only from the most demanding mills in the world, and they satisfy all needs, wants and styles. Loose, athletic or slim fit? It’s all up to you.

ELEMENTS OF STYLE Here is where you let your creativity and attitude shine. We’ll present you with a seemingly endless number of options to customize your shirt. Think about the type of collar you prefer. For instance, the cutaway collar provides plenty of room if you wear a Windsor tie knot; the spread collar has a wide yet crisp look with or without a tie. You have your choice of cuffs too. A two-button barrel cuff is perfect for every day or to wear to a more casual office. Rounded cuffs add a touch of formality to your look or choose a sophisticated French or double cuff if you’re headed to a black-tie event or just like to wear cufflinks. Personalization doesn’t end there. Mother-of-pearl buttons? Placket or no placket? One, two or no pockets? Monogrammed or clean look? You decide. WHAT TO EXPECT Forget about spending hours trying on clothes in a tight changing room. Once tailors have confirmed your measurements and design selections, your job is essentially done. Made-to-measure shirts require few fittings, or in some cases none at all. (That’s more time to shop in our store for sportcoats and ties to complete the look!) It’s a modest investment of time and, if we may say so, a pretty good deal. Typically, the turnaround time for a made-to-measure shirt is three to five weeks. And you’ll pay $160 to $300 for it—about the same as a fine shirt that’s ready to wear. You can start with just one if you like, but we’re fairly sure you won’t stop there. But be warned. Once you’ve tried made-to-measure, you may find it hard to go back to off-the-rack.

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final stitch

pop

PSYCHOLOGY

In honor of Father’s Day, top menswear execs share lessons they’ve learned from Dad. By Karen Alberg Grossman

“Whoever does not have a good father should procure one,” advised the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche. The importance of fatherhood is universally recognized, as is the tremendous impact fathers have. Here, top menswear execs share some of the wisdom they’ve derived from their dads: Ermenegildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna “My father Angelo was my role model. He taught me the importance of family and how to lead by example. He showed his children the significance of having vision, of taking risks, of thinking longterm. Most important, my father had a strong sense of humility and discipline. I am forever grateful to have learned these attributes from such an important figure in my life.” Brunello Cucinelli, CEO and founder of Brunello Cucinelli “Be ever so careful that the ox does not step out of the furrow.” As odd as this might sound, the greatest teaching I received from my father stems from this warning. My family were farmers in Umbria, and each of us had a precise task to carry out in order to make ends meet. One of my tasks was to lead the oxen during ploughing, while my father would operate the plough behind me. Once our work was done, he would stare at the newly traced furrows and say with satisfaction: ‘See how perfectly straight they are? Good job!’ And when I asked him why it was so important, he would reply: ‘Because they look better straight!’ “As a teenager I did not pay much attention. But over the years I’ve started to slowly understand how many things were meant by that apparently simple warning, and how important they all were. “I understood that the ploughshare, polished by use, shines in the sun like the purity of human labor; that the furrow is like the womb of generous Mother Earth; that year after year, through our ploughing, we were writing the great book of fathers; that tradition holds the values of the brightest future; that the straight furrow represents the integrity of the righteous. “Last but not least, I understood that beauty is indispensable for a good life. I thank my father and, so far, I’ve always tried to live by his teachings.”

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Arnold Silverstone, creative director of Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman “My dad Peter is a judicious businessman, a loving, devoted family man, a competitive sportsman and a generous human being. He’s set the bar high in terms of how to live life with passion, commitment and integrity. “It’s no surprise that I followed his footsteps into the fashion business. Because he had his own tailored clothing company, I was able to study by his side from childhood. He always had the courage to allow me to fail and learn from my mistakes; he was always there for me when I needed him. Among my greatest joys has been having him with me during several of my career high points and to see the pride in his eyes. That’s the same pride I’ve always had for my incredible dad.” Mike Faherty, co-founder of Faherty Brand “I’ve always had a fascination with clothing and style. My dad Roger, who worked in finance on Wall Street, was a sharp dresser with genuine flair and a deep appreciation for quality fabrics and construction, which certainly rubbed off on me. I remember his closet full of tailored suits neatly lined up for the week and the perfectly soft Hawaiian shirts he would wear with panache in the summer. The clothing brand my brother and I founded six years ago is in many ways an homage to our dad.” Gianluca Isaia, CEO of Isaia “‘My Way’ sung by Frank Sinatra was my father’s favorite song, and it’s the way he lived his life. Everything I know about our business I learned from my father, Enrico. He was a risk-taker and pioneer

in his field, taking over for my grandfather to run the second generation business. “Throughout my career, I had the great fortune to travel across the globe with this man who taught me every aspect of the business. Everything you do has an impact. It was amazing to work alongside him and experience firsthand the evolution of the brand. One piece of advice he gave me was the Latin phrase ‘Etiam capillus unus habet umbram suam,’ which means even a single hair casts a shadow. “My father had a great sense of style and was one of the first members of Pitti Uomo [the menswear trade show in Florence], which he attended regularly throughout his lifetime. He loved the Neapolitan classics and took styling references from elegant Neapolitan men as well as from Toto and other Italian film greats. Ultimately, though, my father taught me to define my own sense of style. “We carry on his legacy at Isaia by working hard and never compromising who we are and our own identity—made in Napoli.”

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Profile for Wainscot Media

Larrimor's: Spring/Summer 2019  

Larrimor's: Spring/Summer 2019