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BOYDS

BOYDS F/W 2015

Fashion on Fire | The Hottest Trends of the Season

modern man

|

Eclectic suiting options with substance

www.boydsphila.com

luxe LAYERS

the biggest trend for men & women

future perfect

the germination project takes on philadelphia Fall/Winter 2015 Boyds Magazine Fall 2015 Cover.indd 1

fashion on

fire Fall heats up with Emily Blunt, the science of style, and the hottest handbags of the season

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table of

CONTENTS f/w 2015

106

features

the cover (on him)

Trussini topcoat, Borgo Vest, Gran Sasso mock-neck sweater and Incotex pants (on her)

Nigel Preston shearling coat and Alexander McQueen dress

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54

118

64

126

T h e G e rmination P r oj e c t A P h i l a d e l p h i a fo u n d at i o n s ows t h e s e e d s o f c h a n g e.

T h e co l l e cto r G re at st y l e i s a wo r k o f a r t .

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Ligh t m y fi r e Re i g n i te yo u r p a ss i o n fo r h a n d bags this season.

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Ta k e it e asy S o f t a n d c h i c s e p a rate s t h at m a ke s exy e f fo r t l e ss .

T h e ro man ce of r i o Wi t h beauty, beaches and the b o ss a nova, this South American m e t ropolis stirs the passions.

A l l our weeke nds L aye rs take the lead this fall.

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Ste p into t he u nex pec ted F ro m zippers to patchwork, this s e a s on’s hottest women’s shoes a re all about the details.

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A b o ut l ast nig ht Th e s e dressy looks stay out all eve n ing.

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table of contents 1 8 . The boyds guide Our ha n d b o o k to eve r y t h i n g n ew a n d excitin g fo r t h e u p co m i n g s e a s o n. 2 6. top men’s trends B rown m a ke s a co m e b a c k . Rediscove r f l a n n e l . Do u b l e d ow n a n d layer u p. Re i n t ro d u c i n g : t h e m o c kneck swe ate r. 4 0. Gadgets & Gear Here’s a co l l e c t i o n o f co o l st u f f t h at , of cou r s e, yo u re a l l y d o n ’ t n e e d , b u t you pro b a b l y wa n t .

4 2. Top trends for Women Luxe Le at h e r. Sh e a r N e ce ss i t y. Equest r i a n Tre n d . F i t a n d F l a re. M i xand- M atc h Se p a rate s fo r 9 - to - 5 . 9 8. EMILY BLUNT This ch a r m i n g yo u n g Br i t i s n ’ t a f ra i d to make b o l d c h o i ce s o n st a g e, o n screen — a n d i n t h e wo r l d o f fa s h i o n . 1 1 6 . color trend Bye-bye, b l a c k ! De e p s h a d e s o f mulbe r r y a re t h e h o t te st h u e s fo r handb a g s a n d s h o e s .

153 138 . miles davis Fo r t h e P i c a ss o o f j a z z, nothing wa s i n c i d e n t a l — n o t t h e notes h e p l aye d o n t h e t r u m pet or t h e a b s e n ce o f b u t to n s on his s p o r tco at s l e eve s .

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140 . The science of style Th e F ra n k l i n In st i t u te ’s Dr. F re d e r i c Be r t l ey t a l k s about fa s h i o n a n d t h e h u m a n ex p e r i e n ce. 164 . The Vow H ow w i l l you p re p a re for the big d ay? Co m e to Boyd s ’ S pecial Occ a s i o n s h o p, o f co u rse!

167 . Palate reboot A s i p o f c a l va d o s b e t ween co u r s e s c a n t a ke a m e al from g o o d to g re at .

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for your

shopping pleasure a letter fro m the owner s W h e n y o u ’ re i n the fashion business, as we are, every season brings c h a n g e . T h i s f a l l we’ve added some exciting new names to our carefully c u r a t e d l i s t o f b rands—including men’s designers Pal Zileri (tailored c l o t h i n g ) , P i e r re Balmain (contemporary clothing) and Fracap (shoes), a n d w o m e n ’s d e signers Jil Sander, Isabel Marant Étoile and Maison Ullens, a l o n g w i t h A l e x ander Wang shoes and handbags. At Boyds you’ll always f i n d a w e a l t h o f exclusive, fresh, designer merchandise, much o f i t a v a i l a b l e n owhere else in the Philadelphia area. J u s t a s i m p o r t a nt to our customers are the things about Boyds that never change: We p a m p e r s h o ppers with excellent service and fashion advice from a staff o f k n o w l e d g e a b le consultants, many of whom have worked here for years. B e c a u s e w e ’ re o bsessed with making customers look good, we maintain an i n - s t o re t e a m o f European tailors (more than three dozen of them!), who s u p p l y c u s t o m t ailoring and expert, free alterations. We know of no other s i n g l e s t o re i n t he country with this large a tailoring staff. We o ff e r a h o s t of personal amenities, from free valet parking, to p e r s o n a l s h o p p i ng, to a cocktail or other refreshing drink while you shop. I n s h o r t , B o y d s i s committed to making your shopping experience a g e n u i n e p l e a s u re. We hope to see you in the store soon.

Boyds Philadelphia

Jeffrey Glass

Kent Gushner

Ralph Yaffe

1818 Chestnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 215.564.9000 boydsphila.com Hours: Monday - Saturday, 9:30am - 6pm Wednesdays 9:30am - 8pm

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BOYDS

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the

team our creative & Technical staff

C h i e f Ed i to r & Creative Director

Contributing Editors

Au t u m n M a r i e D e a n

Vi rg i n i e Boone, A lex Braden, J e f f G l a ss, Maria Lissandrello, M i m i S m i th, Everett Potter

Fa s h i o n Ed i to r Chelsea Naut

A ss i st a n t Fa s h ion Editors Al ex G u s h n e r B e t h B eve r l y C a n d i ce D ye r C h r i st i n a L a Po r t a

Fa s h i o n P h o to grapher C h r i s Ko o n z

Fa s h i o n Re to u cher C a ro l Le e

Account Executives

P ublished By Wainscot Media Chairman Carroll V. Dowden

President

D a n a La r kin, Michelle Kaplan

Mark Dowden

Coop Brand Manager

Senior Vice President/ Group P ublisher

M o n i c a D elli Santi

Director of Production C h r i st i n e H amel

Shae Marcus

Vice Presidents Rita Guarna, C hristine Hamel

B OY DS M a g a z i n e i s p u b l i s h e d by Wa i n s co t M e d i a , 1 1 0 S u m m i t Ave n u e, M o n t va l e, N J 076 4 5 i n a ss o c i at i o n w i t h B oyd s . Co py r i g h t 2 01 5 by Wa i n s co t t M e d i a , LLC. Al l r i g h t s re s e r ve d . S u b s c r i p t i o n S e r v i ce s : To c h a n g e a n a d d re ss o r re q u e st a s u b s c r i p t i o n , w r i te to S u b s c r i p t i o n s , B oyd s , 1 8 1 8 C h e st n u t St re e t , P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 1 9 1 03 ; p h o n e 2 1 5 . 5 6 4 . 9 0 0 0 Ad ve r t i s i n g I n q u i r i e s : m a r ke t i n g @ b oyd s p h i l a .co m

Go behind the scenes with Boyds on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram @boyds_phila.

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BOYDS the guide introducing: new er ign des ert al

isabel marant Isabel Marant is a veritable darling among the elite class of superchic, unfussy “it” girls. And the French designer ’s much-anticipated Étoile line has arrived at Boyds. The FW2015 collection is an inspired interpretation of off-duty ballerina looks and tomboy separates with serious sex appeal. Known for a strong-shouldered silhouette, textures galore and a certain je ne sais quoi , the designer has successfully cultivated a widely influential and successful take on Parisian chic for the contemporary woman. This collection is casual and senusal, with an avant garde allure that is sure to appeal to shoppers who are ‘in the know.’ S ays M a ra n t o f É to i l e : “ I a m c reating something real, t h at wo m e n wa n t to we a r i n t heir everyday lives, with a ce r t a i n c a re l e ss n e ss , w h i c h I think is very Parisian. Yo u d re ss u p, b u t d o n o t p ay too much attention a n d st i l l l o o k s exy.”

BUFFALO PL AID COAT in grey and black over RIB CREW SWEATER in beige; SHORT-SLEEVE HOODED SWEATSHIRT in heather blue; CABLE-KNIT SWEATER in warm ivor y; CREW-NECK SWEATSHIRT in heather grey; SMALL CHECK OXFORD in black and white

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the guide

If you’ve haven’t noticed, big things are happening at BOYDS. Our newly revamped creative department is premiering a new program for fall 2015 that will showcase the artistic works of celebrated visionaries both inside and outside the store. Erica Prince is a multidisciplinary artist with a practice rooted in drawing, sculpture and performance. She is a member of the Philadelphia artist collective, Vox Populi, and has exhibited her work internationally. Prince also teaches at Tyler School of Art and The University of the Arts in Philadelphia. “I have worked in display design for many years, alongside my primary studio practice. When Boyds’ visual director, Michael DeLuca, approached me with the idea of painted interiors for the fall windows, we became very excited about the connection between interior design and fashion. Auntie Mame was a huge influence. Michael and I saw Interiors as an opportunity to create vignettes that tell stories through design decisions.” See more of Erica Prince’s work at erica-prince.com.

HELLO COCLICO! Clean lines and a neutral color palette are the cornerstones of each Coclico collection. The brand’s subtle architectural silhouettes are fashioned from wood, cork and leather in a small, family-run factory in Mallorca, Spain. Coclico eschews ornamentation and excess, invoking instead a classic, timeless expression of beauty. This brand speaks to the unique and extends beyond style and luxury to a way of living in the world. Consciously, artfully, elegantly.

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new designer alert

These booties are a staff favorite and come in an array of colors and heel heights for everyone!

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the guide

THIS JUST IN AT LAST:

ALEXANDER WANG

Expect big things. This season BOYDS welcomes back long-time fashion favorite Alexander Wang. The designer ’s new collection of “all-black-everything” bags and shoes in strong, structured shapes is sure to delight our customers. Formerly creative director of the renowned design house Balenciaga, the 31-year-old fashion wunderkind is turning his attention back to his own brand. Wang has always followed a strict aesthetic: Less is more. Still, you won’t find him skimping on details. The fall 2015 collection is about texture, shadow and next-level luxe accents. SHOWN LEFT: Alexander Wang Woven Bucket Bag and Woven ‘Marion’ Sling Bags in Large and Medium

k bac in ck bla

SHOWN HERE: WHISKEY GLASSES available in sets of two, $75; LUCKY RABBIT KEY CHAIN, $75; BLACKENED STEEL BICYCLE CHAIN WITH MOCK CROC BOUND LOCK, $145; all available at alexanderwang.com

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the guide

a boy ds f av ori te

time of the season C e l e b r a t i n g i t s 2 0 t h a n n i v e r s a r y, Autumn Cashmere is recognized as one of the leading knitwear brands in the world. Season after season the collection offers key wardrobe staples for men, women and children. The line is known for its first-class q u a l i t y, s u p e r i o r c r a f t s m a n s h i p and evolving design. Each season Autumn Cashmere strives to provide a fresh take on cashmere and k n i t w e a r, c r e a t i n g s t y l e s t h a t a r e b o t h functional and on trend. T h e b r a n d ’s s t y l e i n c o r p o r a t e s a classic yet unique use of color and texture, creating styles that will live in your closet for years.

The finest socks in the world are made in the heart of England at Pantherella’s Leicestershire factory. The luxe brand offers the widest range of colors and patterns—from proper to outrageous. You won’t find finer quality or a sock with a better sense of humor! Shoppers will be pleased to

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peruse BOYDS’ selection of Pantherellla socks in unique patterns and luxurious materials such as cashmere and silk.

t r a fa lg a r : Known for its exotic leathers and limited-edition silk suspenders (called “braces” in the U.K.), Trafalgar has created a legacy of quality and craftsmanship in luxury leathers. From belts to business bags, the Manhattanbased brand delivers intriguing leather as a form of fine art.

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trends

the return of

BROWN

BROWN makes a long-overdue comeback from the ’70s and takes its rightful place on the A List.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Ermenegildo Zegna Rust Plaid Sportcoat, Oriali Blue Striped Dress Shirt, Isaia Blue Printed Tie; Sar toria Par tenopea Blue Check Sportcoat, Oriali Micro-Dot Dress Shirt; Michele Sar tori Striped Knit Tie; Trussini Brown/Navy Check Sportcoat, Ermenegildo Zegna Striped Dress Shirt, Trussini Silk Striped Tie

TRE OT

ND

:

wn bro a try ECE

H

3-

PI T SUI

Canali Rust Brown Plaid SportCoat Vigano Brown Flannel Trouser Ermenegildo Zegna Poplin Sport Shirt Dolcepunta Paisley Print Silk Pocket Square

Ca n a li Cha rcoa l/B row n Str i ped Su it Tacca liti B lu e D r ess Sh i rt D o lcepu nta Flo ra l Pr i nt Ti e Ro b ert Ta lb ott M u lti Co lo r Pa isley Pr i nt Po cket Squa r e

Trussi n i B row n Pla i d Su it Isa ia Str i ped D r ess Sh i rt Isa ia M eda lli o n Pr i nt Si lk Ti e D o lcepu nta G eo m etr i c Pr i nt Si lk Po cket Squa r e

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Er m en eg i ld o Zeg n a Roya l B lu e W i n d ow pa n e Spo rtCoat V i ga n o Roya l B lu e Tro user Er m en eg i ld o Zeg n a Spo rt Sh i rt Seawa r d & Stea r n Pa isley Pr i nt Po cket Squa r e

OTHER BROWNS WE LOVE: Charlie Brown; “Golden Brown” by The Stranglers; Molton Brown Recharge Black Pepper Body Wash, $30; moltonbrown.com BOYDS

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OLIVE

is anything but drab with these

military-inspired separates.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Chelsey Tree Print Scarf, Belstaff ‘Racemaster’ Leather Jacket, Moncler Ultra-Light Down Coat, Hiltl Classic Cotton Pant, Incotex Casual Pant, Rober t Talbott Reversible Jacket with Paul Smith Loopback Hoodie, Autumn Cashmere Cable-Knit Sweater, Moncler Leather Hiking Boot, Mackage ‘Chip’ Parka

Style for the serious

weekender

Visit the BOYDS Big & Tall floor for the latest styles by CUTTER & BUCK. Shoppers will find classic items with which to grow their collection of seasonal staples, plus a few new surprises. This fall is about layering. There is no shortage of texture and color in this new line of autumn sportswear for the serious weekend enthusiast. Visit the 4th floor to be fitted by a sales professional. Cutter & Buck Big & Tall Textured Half-Zip Sweater Cutter & Buck Big & Tall Plaid Sport Shirt Wigens Herringbone Cap Davek ‘Savile’ Umbrella

fall / winter 2015

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trends

TREND: the flannel look

To say that flannel has made a comeback would be the men’s sartorial understatement of the decade. As early as 2008, fashion-forward fellows in-the-know could be found combing catalogs that sold apparel and fishing rods alike, searching for nostalgic plaids. Now you can’t take a step down Chestnut Street without seeing at least a dozen of those weekend-worthy shirts.

Now designers like PATRICK ASSARAF and VAN LAACK are offering high-end versions of your favorite off-duty looks. The good news is that they are work-week appropriate and look great with a suit. The bad news? We can’t promise that they’ll turn your office into a cabin in the woods or that your sweetheart won’t try to steal them from your closet.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Whether you’re of average stature or big and tall, you’re sure to find something special from PETER MILLAR. This fall, shop seasonal essentials, including quilted vests, lived-in chinos and sport shirts for all occasions.

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HILTL REVOLUTIONIZES THE TRAVEL TROUSER. HIGH PERFORMANCE FABRICS OFFER COMPLETE FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT IN MODERN SILHOUETTES. AVAILABLE IN WOOL, COTTON AND DENIM.

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DOUBLE DOWN

TRY 2-in1 jack ets or

stac king sepa rate s

& LAYER UP TOP TO BOTTOM: Landi ‘Oscar’ Car Coat ; Moncler Mixed-Media Down Coat (on model); Zachar y Prell Mixed-Media Quilted Jacket; Landi ‘Oscar’ Coat; Herno Classic Down Coat with Belstaff ‘H Racer’ Jacket; Vince Flannel Quilted Blazer with Vince Plaid Sport Shirt; Zachar y Prell Knit Blazer with Raffi Cashmere Blazer and Autumn Cashmere Shawl-Collar Sweater

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trends

THE ONE WE KNOW. WE KNOW

YOU’VE BEEN SEARCHING.

BOYDS

HAS IT. JUST FOR YOU.

THE ONLY ONE

YOU’LL EVER NEED. DON’T LET IT be the ONE THAT GOT AWAY. SHEARLING FUR COAT BY SINCLAIR

OTHER OPTIONS: BECAUSE YOU SHOULD PROBABLY HAVE A BACK-UP TOP TO BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT: Sinclair Leather Shearling Fur Coat, Sinclair Shearling Fur Coat, Isaia Plaid Car Coat with Fur Collar, John Var vatos Button-Front Faux Fur Coat, John Var vatos Double-Breasted Shearling Coat

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trends

3

ways you’ve been doing it all wrong

1. You wear a mock neck with relaxed or boot-cut denim. Try a slim, straight pant or pair of jeans in a dark wash. Cuff the ankle. Wear nice shoes.

2. You wear a casual button-down, a T-shirt or (gasp) nothing underneath. Wear it with a sport shirt or dress shirt. Your collar should have structure. Extra points if you wear a tie. 3. You consider it casual and only wear a mock neck as a last resort. Remember that dress shirt and tie we talked about? Add a nice sportcoat and forget your outerwear. You have enough layers; you look flawless.

MOCK UP Layered or alone, these oft-overlooked mock-neck SWEATERS will give you serious points in the style department— if you wear them properly. TOP TO BOTTOM: (ON MODELS) mock-neck styles by Ermenegildo Zegna and Raffi; Cutter & Buck Big & Tall Textured Half-Zip Sweater; Kinross Cashmere Half-Zip Sweater; Gran Sasso Mock-Neck Sweater; Kinross Cashmere Buttoned Cardigan; Rober t Talbott Half-Zip Sweater; Gran Sasso FullZip Sweater with Elbow Patch; Patrick Assaraf textured full-zip cardigan; Borgo 28 Cable-Knit 4-Button Sweaters

BUTTO N ZIPPE + R CLOS URE COM BO

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trends

NIGHT RIDER

EDGY DENIM AND STREE T- SAvVY ACC E N TS . YO U D O N ’ T N E E D A M OTO R CYC L E TO WEAR THIS TREND, b ut you should prob ab ly hop on one anyway!

2 3 1

6 5

7

4

8

9

1. 4. 6. 8.

Moncler Zip-Up Jacket 2. Belstaff ‘Powell’ Leather Jacket 3. J Brand Camouflage Denim Hudson ‘Blinder’ Skinny Biker Jeans 5. Pierre Balmain Slim-Fit Biker Denim in Grey and Washed Belstaff ‘Ridgewell’ Crew-Neck Sweater 7. Psycho Bunny Merino Wool Scarf, Hat and Gloves Pierre Balmain Logo T-Shirt 9. Giuseppe Zanotti Mid-Rise Patent Leather Sneakers

john varvatos Since he launched his eponymous label in 1999, after stretches at Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, John Varvatos has accumulated more rock star devotees than any other contemporary designer. Collectors know that Varvatos equates to effortless cool­—and instant, off-the-rack gratification for those in search of a tailored fit, minus the tailor.This season, fans can expect more flawlessly cut jackets, slim trousers, a strong slate palette and the usual dose of rock ‘n’ roll.

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Brioni Large Windowpane Sportcoat Taccaliti Grey Striped Dress Shirt Incotex Light Grey Trouser Trussini Purple Dot Tie Italo Ferretti Floral Pocket Square

SHOP THE LOOK

trends

BRIONI

ETRO Etro Multicolor Plaid Sportcoat Eton Contemporary-Fit Dress Shirt (on model) Zanella Assorted Standard-Fit Trousers

THE MASTER

ior. of D ished l ace f bel em new the ke this s i ce s li ren dud ior. Law igner yD b fer s i s e n s Jen ocks d k dre r lac She less b p a r t s

For decades, Brunello Cucinelli has been changing the way we dress. The Italian design house is known for its sumptuous fabrics (cashmere is king) and expert fit, attracting lovers of fine clothing and comfort alike. With each piece in the FW2015 collection designed for layering, you won’t have trouble keeping warm this season. Visit BOYDS to view the latest Brunello Cucinelli looks and find your inspiration for autumn.

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Button-Up Vest; Plaid Two-Button Cashmere Sportcoat; Suede Puffer Vest; Button-Down Knit Cardigan; Micro-Check Button-Down Sport Shirt; Wool, Silk and Cashmere Blend Flannel Tie; Slim-Fit Wool Light Grey Cargo Pant; Flat-Front Wool Charcoal Trouser; High-Collar Cashmere Jacket BOYDS

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protect your home Rest easy about the security of your abode while you’re out. Just keep watch remotely with the Withings Home HD camera, which boasts a 135-degree field of vision and automatically detects and records movement, noise and even air-quality changes. Check the video feed on your Apple device; the camera’s automatic “zoom-in” technology lets you magnify images twelvefold with a simple spread of the fingers. $199.95

gadgets & gear Here’s a collection of cool stuff that, of course, you really don’t need, but you’ll probably want. for the home chef You’ve probably enjoyed sous vide cooking in top restaurants— now, with the Anova Precision Cooker, it’s come home. It’s a method in which food is sealed in airtight plastic bags to hold in juices and heated in water for longer than usual cooking periods to ensure consistency— no more dried-out exterior or underdone middle. Lightweight and easy to use, this handy device syncs with your smartphone, allowing you to set time and temp for a succulent sensation. $179

stirring achievement Out in the wild, in a foreign land—wherever you want to be able to make the water safe, pull out your SteriPen Adventurer Opti. It emits ultraviolet rays when used to stir a glass of H2O. The pen quickly destroys any viruses or bacteria that may linger in the liquid, so you’re guaranteed a decontaminated drink. $89.95

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handy multi-adapter Instead of juggling a bunch of different adapters when you travel internationally, try the Flight 001 4-in-1 Adapter, which conveniently combines several such tools in one colorful device, saving you time and suitcase room. $25

picture perfect Next time you try to capture a prize-winning moment, don’t let the result look “phony.” In place of a clunky camera, the Olloclip 4-in-1 Photo Lens smartens up your smartphone, producing sharper image quality. This removable lens, equivalent to that of an SLR camera, clips on to your Apple or Android phone. $69.99

for super sleep The Withings Aura features a compact sleep sensor pad that slips under your mattress and tracks your movement, breathing and heart rate—data that by sunrise is analyzed and presented in a smartphone graph, helping you pinpoint slumber problems. And a bedside device tracks sound, temperature and light levels all night long. $299.95

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trends

L U X E L E AT H E R R O C K I T F R O M HEAD-TO-TOE OR IN FORM-FLATTERING ACCENTS. E I T H E R WAY, the LEATHER look IS HERE TO STAY.

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(clockwise from top left) Escada ‘Deleder’ Dress with Leather Details; Mackage ‘Cubil’ Wool and Leather Coat; Henderson ‘Jenny’ Loafer; Maison Ullens Leather Leggings; Por tolano Braided Leather Gloves; Bailey 4 4 Studded Eco Leather Tank and ‘Sedgewick’ Flared Eco Leather Skirt; Les Copains Long-Sleeve Leather Shirt; Por tolano Moto Fingerless Leather Gloves

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Le Reve Rittenhouse Day Spa Presents: NON-INVASIVE FACE REJUVENATION This exclusive treatment, performed by using our state of the art Remodeling Face® Machine from Paris, will lift, firm and rejuvenate your skin. 3 Lift Facial results in wider eyes, more prominent cheekbones, softer wrinkles, and better facial contour. This complete rejuvenation treatment divided into two stages: BR non-surgical face lift and Balancing Stage. This first stage prepares the skin before the treatment using serums and cleansing milk, followed by Lotion P50 and a mask. All products and their combinations are chosen based on the skin type and sensitivity. Once the skin is properly balanced it is ready for next stage of treatment that involves electro-activating the Quintessential Serums with the Remodeling Face machine. The serums are chosen based on skin’s needs. In this treatment stage the skin is moisturized, toned and renewed by boosting reconstruction of the epidermis. All our serums are rich in proteoglycans and peptides; which actively enrich the skin’s natural moisturizing factor.

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trends

SHEAR NECESSITY DON’T BE CAUGHT WITHOUT SHEARLING THIS SEASON. TRY THE S E LOOKS FROM NIGEL PRESTON. SHOP MORE DESIG NERS IN-STORE.

ON THE

COVE

R

(from top) shearling coat in black/brown, shearling coat in blue/white, shearling shawl-collar coat in beige/ cream, noir shearling black coat with shawl collar, shearling vest with exposed fur collar

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GENTLEMEN’S retreat

210 WEST R ITTEN HOU SE SQ U ARE, PHILADELPHIA PA, 1 9 103 215.7 9 0. 2 5 00 RITTEN HOU SEHOTEL. C OM

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trends

HOT to

trot

t h e equestrian trend makes a regular appearan c e e ac h fa l l , but this year it saddles up with a dose of elec t r i c n e o n . (clockwise from top) Smythe Wool-Blend Hunting Blazer L’Agence ‘Chloe Plisse’ Ruffle-Trim Silk Blouse J Brand Velvet Denim Smythe Red Grid Peaked-Lapel Blazer Kenzo ‘Love’ Printed Knit Crew-Neck Sweater Kenzo ‘Love’ Printed Skirt L’Autre Chose Leather Ankle Boots Coclico ‘Vash’ Suede Bootie

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Co r n e rs to n e of the look Smythe Wool-Blend Hunting Blazers in Black, Green Windowpane with Leather and Red Windowpane

D. Exterior Scalloped Circle Skirt and Wool-Blend Pencil Skirt Piccione Piccione Printed Satin Skirt

Rag & Bone ‘Jodi’ Knit Turtleneck sweater and ‘Jessica’ Knit Turtleneck sweater Kenzo ‘Love’ Printed Knit Crew-Neck Sweater Piccione Piccione Abstract Print Chiffon Blouse Fratelli Rossetti ‘Chelsea’ Two-Tone Boot

Alexander McQueen Asymmetrical Drape Dress and Leather ‘Lip’ Belt L’Autre Chose Over-the-Knee Suede Boots

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trends

• F I T & FL ARE• This trend re turns for ye t anot her incarn at i o n . t his time i t’s all abou t text ure and showing s o m e L e g .

ON THE COVE

R

(left to right, top to bottom) Kenzo ‘Spray Stripes’ Dress; Issa ‘Phoebe’ Dress; Issa ‘Heide’ Dress; Kenzo Knit Sleeveless Dress; Kenzo ‘Symbols’ Wool and Cotton Blend Dress; Kenzo Zig-Zag Knit Dress; Alexander McQueen Full Circle Mini Dress; Issa ‘Livia’ Dress; Alexander McQueen Mixed-Pint Dress

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trends

WORK IT IN THESE WINNING SEPARATES TO MIX and M ATC H .

5 9

1

3

TO

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1

2

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4

2

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6 9

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6

7 7

11 12 10

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1. Les Copains Three Quarter-Sleeve Laser Dress 2. Fausto Puglisi Mixed Print Structured Dress 3. Les Copains Rolled Sheath Dress 4. Escada ‘Nuni’ Silk Blouse in Black/Tan 5. Les Copains Abstract Print Blazer 6. Les Copains Elastic Waist Trouser in Charcoal

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7. L’Agence Classic Trouser in Black 8. Escada ‘Nuni’ Silk Blouse in White/Black 9. Fausto Puglisi Printed Silk Blouse 10. Les Copains Cashmere Blazer with Contrasting Lapel and Walter Voulaz White Dress Shirt 11. L’Agence Pencil Skirt with Top-Stitch Detail 12. D. Exterior Long-Sleeve Dress with Mesh Details

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Sowing the Seeds of Change by Alex Braden

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“You wouldn’t know it to look at him, but Ajay Raju was freaking out.” You wouldn’t know it to look at him, but Ajay Raju was freaking out. Thunderous jock jams accompanying the gyrations of the Philadelphia 76ers dancers reverberated against the high walls and lofted ceiling of the Union League’s Lincoln Hall, which happened to be packed to the gills with a who’s who of Philadelphia society. At the front of the auditorium was Senator Bob Casey, having taken the stage following a rousing pep talk to the assembled throng from Sixers coach Brett Brown. It was Casey’s job to welcome an elite cadre of bright and bright-eyed teenagers, about to be drafted into the Germination Project, a new leadership incubator with lofty plans for the city and high expectations for its young Fellows. In a makeshift war room adjacent to all the action, an assistant with a headset had just whispered to Raju that the official Draft Day team jerseys — the very emblem of the occasion—were nowhere to be found. The evening thus far had been a master class in carefully organized quasi-chaos, but now it all seemed about to unravel.

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“I was a little panicked,” admits Raju, two months later and quite at ease in his well-appointed Dilworth Paxson office on the 34th Floor of Centre Square East, the yellow eye of City Hall’s clock tower peering in through his window, “but I sure wasn’t about to show it. What’s Eddie Murphy’s line in Trading Places?” he wonders rhetorically, having memorized virtually every bit of dialogue in the classic Philadelphia rags to riches comedy. “‘Karate man bruises on the inside.’” [Full disclosure: I have worked with Raju for the past eight years and have heard him quote Trading Places many times. At length.] “That was me,” he continues. “We’d put this whole event together like a perfectly tailored suit, and one bad stitch was about to rip the whole thing apart at the crotch.” But let’s back up. Thirty years ago, Ajay Raju didn’t run a storied Philadelphia law firm, manage a venture fund or helm a philanthropic foundation. In 1984, he was a 14-year-old immigrant from Bhopal, India, newly settled with his parents and younger brother in the reaches of

Northeast Philly. Like a typical immigrant kid, he didn’t have connections or resources to leverage. But—and also like a typical immigrant kid—he possessed an innate sense of drive that was lost neither in transit nor translation. At George Washington High School, he made the track team as a sprinter and was surprised at the ready supply of adulation heaped on athletes, while the academic stars were simply declared nerds and relegated to their appropriate caste. In India, just the opposite had been true. Sports were generally regarded as a scholastic afterthought, and the nerds were exalted as the cool kids. “It struck me as backward,” says Raju. “Why was everyone so fixated on how well a kid could throw a ball down a field or how fast he could run around a big oval? It seemed to me the better investment was in those smart, ambitious kids who’d most likely be our bosses one day.” He pauses. “Not that I minded getting attention as an athlete.” Eventually, the realities of human physiology led Raju to conclude his

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pursuit of a career in cleats. Graduating from Temple University’s Beasley School of Law in 1996, Raju set about building his business and his brand. As he became increasingly enmeshed in Philadelphia’s civic society, Raju grew ever more vexed by the institutional dysfunction he encountered and its sclerotic effect on progress. “I wondered how it was that this city, literally the crucible of modern western democracy, could have veered so dramatically off track,” says Raju. “As a newcomer, I’d embraced Philly’s historical mythology— the Constitution, Ben Franklin, the Liberty Bell, all of it. But now that I’d gotten a closer look into the problems that had been plaguing us for decades, it was hard not to despair at the thought that

Philadelphia’s greatness was an artifact of the past.” What bothered Raju about Philadelphia’s current condition was the same laundry list of ills cited in so many criticisms of modern American urban centers: a stubbornly abysmal poverty rate, a chronically underfunded and underperforming public school system, persistently high incidences of violent crime, homelessness, unemployment and public health issues. “I was less interested in figuring out where we’d gone wrong than in finding a new path forward,” Raju emphasizes. “But it was clear to me that the obstacles in Philadelphia’s way wouldn’t be overcome with a piece of legislation or a wheelbarrow full of money. What we really needed was long-term stewardship;

and for that, we’d need an ecosystem to cultivate these stewards, these leaders, to instill in them a commitment to serve the city. There’s never been a shortage of great minds to come out of Philly; the problem has always been convincing them to stay here.” For Raju, the moment for action was now. He points to a confluence of encouraging data, which, set against the dismal backdrop of the aforementioned indicators, suggest a hopeful moment ripe for the seizing. “Eight billion dollars in major property developments around Philly, an ascendant arts scene to rival anything in Europe, thriving institutions of higher learning; the list goes on,” says Raju, sounding like a salesman for the city, which, of course, he is. “If there fall / winter 2015

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wasn’t an undercurrent of hope for what Philadelphia might become, we wouldn’t be seeing these big bets on business, population and culture here.” The sense that Philadelphia is at a tipping point had been preoccupying Raju for a while, but it was a conversation with his daughter Madison, then a freshman at the Baldwin School, that made him realize what he could try to do about it. “Madison and I were talking about the virtues of grit and the vices of privilege and what it means to be really dedicated to a purpose,” Raju recalls. “She could have dismissed my perspective as just another when-I-was-your-age lecture from an immigrant dad, but instead she pointed out to me that kids are capable of understanding these concepts, in some cases with more clarity, and certainly with less cynicism, than adults. Madison helped me conclude that if the purpose at hand is sustainable progress for our region, then we ought to be fostering that purpose in the kids who can achieve it over the course of their lives. These are the seeds that we build the ecosystem around.” And from that revelation, the Germination Project emerged. Established with a foundational grant from the Pamela and Ajay Raju Foundation, the Germination Project’s stated purpose is to be a “catalytic investment” in Philadelphia’s future. By

striving to identify, nurture, encourage and connect the brightest young people around —from their high school years through their careers—to commit themselves to the greater civic good, the Germination Project seeks nothing less than to establish a self-sustaining ecosystem to transform Philadelphia. By January of 2015, 10 high schools representing a cross-section of Philadelphia’s public, parochial, charter and suburban education systems had been chosen to participate in the Germination Project’s pilot program. Each school’s administrators were tasked with nominating candidates from among their 10th-grade classes to apply for admission as student Fellows. Dozens of capable students submitted application packages consisting of transcripts, personal statements and letters of recommendation for consideration by the Germination Project’s selection committee. Meanwhile, Raju tore through his Rolodex seeking collaborators for the new endeavor. “It was critical that any institutional partner of the Germination Project share our philosophical mindset,” he says. “We needed them to view this as the beginning of a decades-long investment where returns would be measured longitudinally.” Raju quickly managed to secure the buy-in of a wide

range of businesses, nonprofits and educational institutions; chief among these were the University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton Social Impact Initiative and the Philadelphia 76ers organization. Raju and his fellow Foundation trustees delegated to Wharton the design of the Germination Project’s Leadership Boot Camp, an intensive ongoing program of experiential leadership and social entrepreneurship training held at the University of Pennsylvania. Further collaborations between the Germination Project and Wharton include a business plan competition aimed at injecting entrepreneurial energy­—and $100,000 in seed money—into the region’s next generation of small-business leaders. With the Philadelphia 76ers, an organization Raju describes as “just as focused on securing a successful future as we are,” Germination Project Fellows will coordinate a variety of community outreach and development initiatives. The Sixers had also offered to supply the glitz for the Germination Project’s Draft Day Benefit Gala. Which brings us back to those jerseys. In mid-April of 2015, having pored over countless compelling applications and conducted multiple rounds of interviews with finalists, the Germination Project’s selection committee chose 15

Germination Project Fellows will coordinate a variety of community outreach and development initiatives.

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students to matriculate into its inaugural class. The program’s launch was to be held in the lavish mode of a high school prom multiplied by an NBA draft ceremony. Needless to say, it was a first for the Union League. But before all that, the Fellows needed threads. Boyds stepped in. “As much as the Union League or City Hall itself, Boyds is a landmark and an institution in Philadelphia,” says Raju. “Boyds has been dressing the best in class for generations, but I also thought that it was meaningful here, with a group of kids from a variety of circumstances, to dispel notions of class distinction,” Raju adds. “Basketball superstars would be dressed to the nines for an event like this, so why shouldn’t our superstar future leaders get the same treatment?” Into the spotlight they stepped.

The night of the Draft Day Gala, a warm June breeze ushered the Fellows and their hundreds of new supporters and benefactors from Broad Street into the Union League. A stirring short video introduced the Germination Project to the assembled guests, as butlered hors d’oeuvres and strategically placed cheesesteak stations kept them all fed. A live band got the crowd dancing before official events had even begun. Coach Brown offered an exhortation to the Fellows as they lined up in the wings to be announced as “picks” in the Germination Project draft, at which point each would climb the stage to be received and to receive an official Philadelphia 76ers jersey customized with his or her name and the Germination Project logo. Mere moments before the first Fellow’s name

was called, another of Raju’s headsetclad aides slid into the war room with the newfound jerseys. In a lightning round of covert hot potato, the jerseys were delivered to the podium, and in turn to each Fellow, beaming before the cheers of the crowd. Off to the side, Raju breathed a barely perceptible sigh. Karate man was relieved. The Germination Project Fellows danced with their families and friends, new and old alike, late into the evening. Ahead of them lay their own futures, and the future they’d secure for Philadelphia.

www.germinationproject.com fall / winter 2015

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Collec t the

GREAT STYLE IS A WORK OF ART.

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c tor fall / winter 2015

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Rochas belted satin dress, $1395.

Paul Smith Slim-Fit Printed Sport Shirt

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Pal Zileri Blue Windowpane Suit Oriali Blue Striped Shirt Brioni Orange Printed Tie

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Isaia Blue Suit with Brown Stripe Taccaliti Blue Check Sport Shirt Altea Brown Striped Tie Alashan Cashmere Beige Cashmere Scarf

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Isaia Olive Plaid Sportcoat Rober t Talbott Dress Shirt Isaia 7-Fold Woven Burgundy Tie Altea Red Pocket Square Mason’s Cotton Trouser

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Scuderi Medium Green/Blue Check Sportcoat Rober t Talbott Blue Striped Dress Shirt Paul Smith Casual Grey Jogger Isaia 7-Fold Blue Woven Tie

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Trussini Plaid Suit Taccaliti Blue Button-Down Dress Shirt Brioni Medallion-Print Silk Tie Dolcepunta Geometric-Print Pocket Square

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Ermenegildo Zegna Rust Plaid Sportcoat and Full-Zip Sweater Alessandro Gherardi Blue Dress Shirt Vigano Navy Blue Trouser Dolcepunta Geometric-Print Pocket Square

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Paul Smith Navy Multicolored Print Suit and Micro-Print Blue Sport Shirt Altea Woven Pocket Square

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tod’s Classic Suede Chukkas

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sunday drivers tod’s (from top) Classic Suede Driver in Berry Classic Leather Driver in Black Classic Suede Driver in Grey

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One of Iceland’s top attractions, the man-made Blue Lagoon was formed over a natural geothermal spring whose warm, mineral-rich water is said to be therapeutic for those with psoriasis

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tod’s (from top) Suede Ankle Boots in Black, Brown and Grey

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for the street or the suit

(clockwise from top) To Boot New York ‘Brennan’ Wingtip Leather Boots in Brown and Cognac Rag & Bone ‘Spencer’ Chukka in Oxblood Fratelli Rossetti Weathered Cap-Toe Boot in Brown To Boot New York ‘Brennan’ Wingtip Leather Boot in Grey To Boot New York ‘Buck’ Lace-Up Boot

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all business

(from top) To Boot New York ‘Grant’ Monk Straps Fratelli Rossetti Lace-Up Brogues in Cognac and Black To Boot New York ‘Burns’ Wingtip Monk Straps

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Top: Ties by Canali Bottom: Ties by Stefano Ricci

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(clockwise from top) Ties by Dolcepunta Ermenegildo Zegna and Brioni

jan leslie Jan Leslie magically reinterprets the world around her into beautiful forms and cleverly creative designs each season. Her hand-painted enamel pieces can be compared to fine art with a light-hearted touch. A thrill to wear and a passion to collect, this line continually rejuvenates and redefines menswear jewelry.

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Shown here, Druzy Crystallized Gemstone Cufflinks in Sterling Silver and Rhodium BOYDS

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TACCALITI ABOUT: FAMILY OWNED “Our specialty purveyor, John Marco, flies in twice a year to review fabrics from around the world. The end result is that our Taccaliti selections are exclusive. You won’t find these swatches anywhere else.” WHAT YOU’RE GETTING: UNMATCHED FABRICS SUPERIOR CONSTRUCTION UNBEATABLE PRICE “Other designers are charging twice the amount for shirts like these. The quality is impeccable.”

THE

DRESS SHIRT B OY D S c o -OW N ER J EFF G LASS TA LKS D R ESS S H I RTS and W H Y I T'S I M PO RTA N T TO T H I N K O U TS I D E T H E B OX W H EN I T C O M ES TO B R A N D S.

ORIALI ABOUT: OLD-WORLD ITALIAN CONSTRUCTION “I go to market and see more fabrics in more mills than you can imagine. These shirts are a rarity. Ask any men’s stylist and they’ll say the same thing— they’re great shirts if you can find them.” WHAT YOU’RE GETTING: UNUSUAL PRINTS UNIQUE COLORATIONS UNCOMPROMISING CRAFTSMANSHIP “No one will ever abandon brands like Isaia or Zegna; it’s some of the finest clothing out there. But there are a lot of lesserknown manufacturers that also deserve shoppers’ attention.” fall / winter 2015

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A TOAST TO A COLORFUL FALL ‘15

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Loeffler Randall Drawstring Shoulder Bag

Light my

FIRE R E I G N I T E Y O U R PA S S I O N F O R HANDBAGS THIS SEASON.

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5.

Mansur Gavriel Large Tote in Tumbled Leather

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5.

Chloe Small ‘Marcie’ Leather and Suede Crossbody Bag

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Chloe ‘Drew’ Small Bag in Grained Leather

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5.

Proenza Schouler Embossed Courier Bag

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Alexander Wang ‘Rockie’ with Rhodium and ‘Lia’ Crossbody Bag with Rhodium

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Proenza Schouler ‘Medium PS1’ Fringe Bag and ‘PS1’ Fringe Pouch

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Max Mara Large Leather Bucket Bag

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trendsetter

emily blunt

This charming young Brit is unafraid to make bold choices on stage, on screen— and in the world of fashion. By Mimi Smith

Sweet meets saucy as British actress Emily Blunt shows off a ruffled baby-doll dress, ribbon-tied textured stockings—and a look that could melt a heart of steel.

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At 32, British actress Emily Blunt has secured her spot in Hollywood’s hierarchy with a series of compelling performances—including a Golden Globe-winning supporting role in the 2007 BBC miniseries Gideon’s Daughter—and held her own on screen with the likes of Meryl Streep and Dame Judi Dench. And she’s no sartorial wallflower either. Blunt’s daring red-carpet fashion choices are consistently documented for the masses of fashionistas who envy her impeccable style. Will anyone soon forget the shimmering, crystal-studded Stella McCartney dress she wore to the recent Sicario premiere at the 68th annual Cannes Film Festival? A subtle yet arresting actress with piercing eyes and crisp comedic chops, Blunt could nevertheless be the girl next door. She grew up in southwest London, the second of four children of an actress-turned-teacher and a barrister whose real-life courtroom dramas she credits for her ability to play enigmatic characters. If that seems a perfect pedigree for thespian success, remember that—as Blunt once reminded The Guardian in an interview—“nobody goes through life unscathed.” In childhood Blunt struggled with a severe stutter that left her frustrated and somewhat isolated. It took an insightful teacher’s suggestion that she portray a heavily accented character in a school play (an idea at which 12-year-old Blunt initially balked) to open her up

to fluency. Today her diction is perfect, but her memory remains keen—she serves on the board of the nonprofit American Institute for Stuttering. The actress attended Hurtwood House, a school known for its performing arts program, where she excelled at the cello. She also did enough acting to be discovered by an agent, who placed her in several period dramas. Her debut professional play, The Royal Family, put her opposite Dench and earned her the “Best Newcomer” award from the Evening Standard. Though she started on stage, Blunt’s breakout performance came in a film: the 2004 U.K. production My Summer of Love, in which she played Tamsin, a self-described “fantasist” who indulges in a lesbian affair. In 2006, the actress gained the world’s attention as the hilariously haughty assistant to Miranda Priestly (a character allegedly based on Vogue’s Anna Wintour) in The Devil Wears Prada. And if Blunt can play haughty, she can also be positively imperial, as she proved in the title role in 2009’s The Young Victoria. Blunt is as versatile in attire as she is in performance, and she doesn’t stick to “safe” choices. She’s been seen in everything from a fire-engine red Georges Chakra gown with a low-cut lace back to a beaded black Jenny Packham femme fatale gown with a sheer skirt to a blush pink chiffon dress. She is also a master at casual chic, and at moments of leisure can be found rocking skinny jeans, booties, oversized sweaters and aviator glasses. The star shares those moments with actor John Krasinski, best known as the comparatively sane young fellow on the stateside version of TV’s The Office, whom she married in 2010. Just last year, the couple welcomed their daughter Hazel into the world—but not before Blunt posed in a skin-tight nude dress for Vogue at eight months pregnant. She looked fabulous. Blunt’s most important role as a mother may slow her pace for a while, but it won’t stop us from seeing her in interesting parts. Following her work in Salmon Fishing in the Yemen (2011), The Five-Year Engagement (2012), Edge of Tomorrow (2014—opposite Tom Cruise) and the musical Into the Woods (2014), this year’s star performance in the crime drama Sicario is as a Tucson cop. And she’s currently filming The Huntsman, due for a 2016 release. Streep? Dench? The future promises another one-syllable synonym for enduring greatness: Blunt!

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With beauty, beaches and the bossa nova, this South American metropolis stirs the passions. By Everett Potter

For some destinations, the arrival of the Summer Olympics would be the biggest news ever. But it’s just one more feather in the cap of next year’s host city, Rio de Janeiro, whose “Carnival,” the world’s largest, draws 2 million revelers into the streets each spring. You probably know Rio even if you’ve never visited. Movies delight in the art deco statue of Christ that presides over the harbor, rising more than 100 feet from its perch on a 2,300-foot mountain called Corcovado. And if you’ve seen images of the conical mountains, the undulating coastline and the colorful architectural heritage of the city’s 450 years, you realize Rio looks like something the surrealist artist Salvador Dalí might have conceived. But you simply must come in the flesh, not so much to learn as to luxuriate—in the sights, the sun, the tastes, the beat. You’ll keep returning. Along fabled strands like Copacabana and Ipanema,

high-rises face the surf of Guanabara Bay. The hippest of the 6 million Cariocas—Rio residents—can be seen going from apartment to beach in nothing more than a skimpy black bathing suit and flip-flops, cell phones to their ears, wraparound designer shades de rigueur, their tans at a level of perfection most of us can only dream of. But above their neighborhoods rise mountains that are a patchwork of jungle and shantytowns known as favelas. Rio is stylish and hedonistic, but it’s also a big city, with some spots as glamorous as Paris and others as edgy as Detroit, often within a few blocks. To experience the world’s most mannered beach rituals, choose cool Ipanema and hang out at the area marked Posto 9, the epicenter of beach hip. Style-conscious Cariocas set up their umbrellas alongside the thundering surf, but surprisingly few ever swim, as riptides can be fierce. continued

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The idea of building a large statue atop Corcovado was first suggested in the mid1850s. It came to fruition in 1931, when Christ the Redeemer made its debut, arms outstretched as a symbol of peace.

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This page, Cariocas enjoy a game of football on Ipanema beach. Opposite, from top, the tranquil pool lounge at the Hotel Santa Teresa, a perfect place to relax and have a drink or a light meal; Selarón’s Steps in Lapa, a colorful tiled stairway created over the course of 20 years by the late Chilean artist Jorge Selarón; a Zen-like suite at the boutique Hotel Santa Teresa.

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Instead, they preen and socialize, in a display of exhibitionism and vanity of the highest order. Women wear tiny bathing suits known as fio dental—dental floss—while men favor an abbreviated Speedo-like style called a sunga. The hyper-fit play volleyball as well as the uber-athletic hybrid of soccer and volleyball called futevolei. If you’ve spent the day with “The Girl from Ipanema” playing in your head, grab a chopp, a Brazilian draft beer, at Garota de Ipanema on Rua Vinicius de Moraes, where Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes penned the legendary song in 1962. It introduced the world to the sound called bossa nova or “new beat.” With a few well-chosen words of Portuguese, you can handle Rio’s taxi drivers and have them take you all over the “Cidade Maravilhosa”—marvelous city. The Chácara do Céu museum in Santa Teresa is the former home of industrialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya. He collected Brazilian, European and Asian art, but his modernist house is equally fascinating. Then head to Praça Tiradentes, a public square in the city’s center, ditch the cab and walk to Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura, a 19th-century library whose main reading room is a veritable cathedral of books reaching to the sky. Walk a few blocks to a pedestrian-only street called Gonçalves-Dias and step into the magnificent eatery known as Confeitaria Colombo, a riot of Art Nouveau mirrors and stained glass from 1894. Grab a seat at one of the marble tables, order a hearts-of-palm salad, and follow it with a cafezinho, Brazilian coffee, and traditional Portuguese sweets. You’ll find the brightest star for lodging in the hilly Santa Teresa neighborhood. It’s the Hotel Santa Teresa, which was formerly a 19th-century fazenda, or ranch. This Relais & Châteaux property boasts high style and amazing views of the bay. Inside there are 44 suites decorated with folk fall / winter 2015

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art from the Amazon and mid-century modern pieces by Brazilian designer Sergio Rodrigues. Simple four-poster beds and a Zen-like minimalism are hallmarks of the rooms. There is a slate swimming pool, perfect for a sweltering Rio day, and a neighborhood that has in the past decade evolved from edgy to hip. The fazenda’s former senzala (slave quarters), now houses the lively Bar dos Descasados. When it comes to dining, nearby is Aprazível, which has fine views, a welcoming garden and a menu that highlights Brazilian seafood, with dishes such as orange-infused tropical fish with coconut rice and roasted plantains. Zuka is more cutting-edge, offering fusion cuisine that takes Brazilian ingredients and blends them with European staples—rack of lamb with passion fruit, for example. Zazá keeps the emphasis on Asian accents, and diners lounge on throw pillows—try the grilled namorado (perch) served with caramelized plantains. Then it’s time to go out. Cariocas say it doesn’t matter whether you are rich or poor in Lapa, because everyone comes to this neighborhood for the same things: music, dancing and a well-made caipirinha, the national cocktail of sliced limes, sugar, ice and cachaca, a sugar-cane liquor. Among the best clubs are Rio Scenarium, an eccentric boîte that’s jammed with antiques as well as partygoers and a live band playing samba or chorino. You can also dance and hear music at Carioca da Gema, which began the Lapa revival and is filled with bossa nova lovers every night. I also like Centro Cultural Carioca. A former dance hall, this two-story space has samba lessons downstairs while in the vast, windowed upstairs hall, an array of performers play various styles of Brazilian music. The blending of music and food is part of the extraordinary melding of cultures that defines Rio de Janeiro, one of the world’s liveliest and most surprising cities.

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This page, dancing at Carnival, a world-famous, five-day celebration that takes place 40 days before Easter. Opposite, from top, drummers getting into the samba groove during Carnival; one of the the many colorful, architecturally rich streets in Rio’s Bohemian Santa Teresa neighborhood; riding a cable car up to iconic Sugar Loaf Mountain, which offers stunning views of the city.

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icon Jazz trumpeter, bandleader and composer Miles Davis was an original who gave thought to every note of music—and to the distinctive sartorial notes he struck as well.

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miles davis

For the Picasso of jazz, nothing was incidental— not the notes he played on the trumpet or the absence of buttons on his sportcoat sleeves. By Maria Lissandrello

If anyone knew from cool, it was Miles Davis. The legendary jazz musician got his start in the mid-1940s, moving from his native St. Louis to Manhattan to study at Juilliard—and play the trumpet with Charlie Parker, Thelonious Monk and other cats on the bebop scene in Harlem. Even as a teenager, he had a sartorial style that was well thought out. Although his Brooks Brothers suits came from the friendly neighborhood pawnshop, Davis made them his own by slitting notches in the lapels in homage to the Duke of Windsor. Nothing about his appearance—or his music—was incidental. When he raised his trumpet to his lips, he controlled every detail. Designer and fashion illustrator Joe Eula recalled the instructions the jazz great gave him for an outfit he was to wear onstage: “When we talked about the jacket, we knew it could be no more than 54 inches from one arm to the other, straight out.” It was calculated, you see, to reveal no more than an inch of Davis’ bespoke shirts and cufflinks. And when he turned his back to his audience (something he was wont to do—a statement, some said), the natural drop shoulders were perfectly orchestrated, his jackets cut to accommodate his slouchy playing posture. By the mid-’50s, the Juilliard dropout had transitioned to the Ivy League, getting his suits custom-made at Harvard Square’s Andover Shop. There, owner and jazz fan Charlie Davidson came to know his preferences: English tweed and madras jackets with a natural shoulder and narrow lapel, chinos and flannel trousers, and broadcloth shirts with button-down

collars. On Davis’ feet, Bass Weejun loafers—a choice that made other men question their own footwear. Davis became so renowned for his fashion sense (wearing “what the well-dressed man will wear next year,” said Down Beat magazine in 1960) that press releases on his upcoming gigs reported not just the musical program but his outfits too— pink seersucker jackets, skin-tight trousers, Italian-cut suits, handmade doeskin loafers, a beige pongee suit. In the 1950s and ’60s, the trumpet player and band leader emerged as one of the most famous jazz artists in the world, not just for his music but for his image too. He was the subject of a Playboy interview and became the first jazzman to appear on the cover of Rolling Stone. A pivotal point in his career came in 1959, when his band released what would become the bestselling—and most influential—jazz album of all time, Kind of Blue. Romantic, melancholic and beautifully melodic, it ushered in a new jazz style. Ever-evolving both in his music and his wardrobe, Davis rewrote the jazz rulebook in the late 1960s by incorporating electric instruments into his band, creating a looser, rockinfluenced improvisational style. At first, on albums like In a Silent Way and Bitches Brew, it was dubbed “jazz-rock” or “fusion.” But when the ’70s arrived he abandoned jazz completely—and his sartorial style became as funky and avantgarde as his music. Somehow he managed to get away with wearing purple bell-bottoms, kipper ties and hexagonal glasses. It was part of the trademark swagger and confidence of Miles Davis. And yeah, he was still cool.

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At the turn of the 17th Century, William Shakespeare penned these words: “The apparel oft proclaims the man.” I was 9 years old when my father first read Hamlet to us. While I did not fully appreciate the advice Polonius imparted to his nephew, Laertes, as he embarked on his voyage from Denmark to France, I knew it somehow related to fashion. And my father, the original “Dr. B,” was always a welldressed man. As I grew older, it became exceedingly clear. More than anything else, we humans are social beings and we connect with each other in many ways and at multiple levels. However, throughout this human experience, we have limited opportunity to engage in deep conversation, and thus, our unique identity risks going unnoticed. Modern society has cleverly offered a safe reprieve. Fashion, that rarified combination of fabric, style and personality—creating the aesthetic—allows us to communicate an authentic message and, unwittingly or with prescribed purpose, starts a silent dialogue with all those around us. This fashion-catalyzed method of expressing oneself is as old as dirt. And here is the rub: Whether or not you pay attention to what you wear, the world takes stock. We are constantly analyzing the environment around us, including what people look like. There needs to be no judgment, but often a conclusion is drawn—what Descartes would refer to as “the accumulation of sense data.” Just like a scent evokes a certain memory, how you dress, how you wear your hair, how you accessorize all scream, “This is who I am!”, “This is what I am!” Of course, depth of character can only be discerned through conversation, exchange of ideas and relationship building, but the reality of life provides limited opportunities for this. All the while, the silent whispers about your identity are heard loudly through your fashion sense and chosen materialized veneer. As a scientist and an executive at The Franklin Institute, I often find myself breaking the stereotype of what a scientist is expected to look like. That’s true whether I’m in a stylish three-piece suit accessorized with a colorful fountain pen or donning a polo shirt and some crisp new Chuck Taylors. Young adults, grandparents and kids alike, take note that scientists indeed come in all shades and manner. Time and time again, this deconstruction of their “scientist” image helps them resonate more with me and we connect on that human level, even if only for a passing moment. We often use the adage, “Never judge a book by its cover.” Yet we all pluck books off shelves, grab magazines from racks and select newspapers from stands based solely on the image or headline plastered on the cover. Like it or not, how you look sends a message. So, as I dance the divide of loving science and appreciating fashion, I choose to consciously curate that message. Our first U.S. ambassador, Benjamin Franklin, knew this as he navigated that same haute-coutured France as Shakespeare’s adventurous Laertes. Working in his temple on the Parkway, it is only fair I try to do the same. Thank you, William. Thank you, Dad. Thank you, Boyds. Indeed, “the clothes often proclaim the man."

As Senior Vice President for Science and Education at the renowned Franklin Institute, Dr. Frederic Bertley, “Dr. B,” is dedicated to igniting a passion for science lear ning, a commitment to innovative thinking and a desire to transform the global science education landscape. Bertley leads several diverse initiatives at The Franklin Institute that positively impact students, educators and the general public. He oversees a number of youth programs; a monthly all-inclusive Community Night; the long-standing Traveling Science Show and the lauded Color of Science™, which showcases the remarkable contributions of women and persons of color to moder n-day science. Dr. B directs the Institute’s talented cluster of scientists and a broader team that works tirelessly to make science accessible and engaging. From the prestigious Franklin Institute Awards, one of the oldest science awards program in the world, to the inspiring Philadelphia Science Festival—the programs under Bertley’s leadership are significant and proven successful. Bertley also leads the Institute’s international efforts, including the implementation of science education programs in Egypt, Paraguay and China, and he is Executive Editor of the Journal of The Franklin Institute . A Montreal native, Dr. Bertley studied physiology and mathematics at McGill University, where he also ear ned a Ph.D. in immunology. Prior to joining The Franklin Institute, he was part of a Harvard Medical School HIV Vaccine Research Group and a research affiliate at MIT, and he managed multinational teams in Haiti and the Sudan. Dr. Bertley is honored to have received the Dell Inc. Inspire 100 World Changers, Harvard Medical School Dean’s Service Award, Philadelphia Business Jour nal ’s 40 Under 40 and Minority Business Leadership Award, as well as a Mid-Atlantic Emmy™. He has been an invited speaker at top venues, including world-leading universities, the White House and the United Nations.

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Isaia Navy Tuxedo Eton Formal Shirt Italo Ferretti Embroidered Navy Bow Tie

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Alexander McQueen Full-Zip Mini Dress

fall / winTER 2015

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Alexander McQueen Full-Zip Mini Dress

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MEN’S Isaia Navy Tuxedo Eton Formal Shirt Italo Ferretti Embroidered Navy Bow Tie WOMEN’S Rochas Strapless Floral Cocktail Dress

fall / winter 2015

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Thierr y Mugler Long-Sleeve Knit Dress

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Emilio Pucci Color-Blocked Lace-Up Dress

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MEN’S Giorgio Armani Black Tuxedo Eton Formal Shirt Carrot & Gibbs Black Bow Tie WOMEN’S Thierr y Mugler Grommet-Detailed Mini Dress

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Maria Lucia Hohan One-Shoulder Chiffon Evening Gown BOYDS

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Thierr y Mugler Asymmetric Grommet-Detailed Halter Dress

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Giorgio Armani Formal Patent Leather Dress Shoe, Formal Textured Leather Loafer, Formal Velvet Shoe, Salvatore Ferragamo Formal Velvet Shoes in Navy fall / winter 2015

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CRAFTED BY ARTISANS. A LEGACY IN FINE STERLING.

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life in style

the vow

how will you prepare for the big day?

THIS PAGE (clockwise from top left) Daniel and Dana Bernstein, Mark and Jaime Testaiuti, Louis Pontani and Amelia Carolla OPPOSITE (top to bottom, left to right) Brett and Remy Strause, Jeremy and Melissa Wolf, Michael and Jennifer Budner, Joseph and Kellie Lucas, Scott Horowitz and Morgan Talasnik, Paul and Denise Lambrecht

Every season, dozens of customers look to Boyds for their formalwear wedding needs. Visit the custom shop for everything from tuxedos and shirts to personalized ties and pocket squares for your groomsmen. Peruse hundreds of swatches to create signature garments and accessories for your special day.

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Encircle Dining Table starting at 11,458 • Oval X-Back Dining Arm Chair starting at 2,238 • Oval X-Back Dining Side Chair starting at 1,198

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spirits

palate reboot

A sip of calvados between courses can take a meal from good to great. By Virginie Boone

The dinner is splendid, but its many fine flavors are starting to confuse your taste buds. That’s the moment for what the French call le trou Normand (literally, “the Norman hole”). It’s a traditional break in an elaborate meal to cleanse the palate, aid digestion and prepare for the next course. And it usually features calvados, the world’s pre-eminent apple brandy. Calvados has been made by the Normans in northern France for at least 400 years. At one time, it is said, some farmers paid their rent with barrels of the fermenting cider from which the brandy is made. But it was only in 1942 that calvados was given an officially protected name in France’s system of AOCs (appellations d’origine controlées), geographically protected zones linked to specific wines and other agricultural products. There are actually three specific AOCs known for calvados. But the heart of this brandy’s homeland is one called Pays d’Auge. That’s where, around 1960, Christian Drouin Sr. bought a farmhouse surrounded by apple trees. He hoped to supplement his income by selling Taking a break to sip an apple brandy like Château du Breuil Calvados from the heart of Normandy reawakens the taste buds, restores the appetite and prepares you for maximum enjoyment as the dinner proceeds.

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spirits Clockwise from top left: Apples give calvados its distinctive flavor; the brandy shares its name with a geographical “department” in Normandy: the Chateau Falaise in the Calvados region is more than a thousand years old; barrels of calvados produced by Boulard await shipment.

the fruit, but prices at the time weren’t compelling enough. Yet Drouin’s friend Pierre Pivet, a native of the area, happened to have a mobile still and was in the habit of visiting farms to help farmers distill cider. He suggested Drouin give it a go. He did, stocking away much of what he made within his cellar until 1979, when his son Christian Drouin Jr. figured it might make sense to actually sell a bit of the stuff. It turned out to be exquisite. The family was soon offering the world single-vintage bottlings of calvados, igniting a wave of new interest in the spirit, especially among Michelinstarred chefs. Christian Drouin’s namesake firm continues to have the world’s largest selection of single-vintage calvados, with each vintage representing the year of distillation, usually the calendar year after harvest. And Drouin still farms its original roughly 50-acre orchard in the town of Gonneville-surHonfleur, as well as a second property known as Domaine Coeur de Lion in Coudray-Rabut, which tourists can visit. These properties provide roughly

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half of the apples required yearly to make Christian Drouin brandy. The other half are sourced from nearby longtime growing partners, all of whom subscribe to diversity, growing apples in four categories: sweet, bittersweet, bitter and acidic. When they’re ready to harvest, apples are shaken gently out of trees, to be gathered from the ground by hand. Ripening varies among the types of apples, beginning in late summer and extending through the winter. Farmers store the earlier-ripening varieties so that the distillers have all four kinds at their disposal once they’re ready to press the apples into cider. And pears are sometimes included in the mix as well. Often the cider is pressed at the farm in order to take advantage of the wild yeasts that are present for fermentation, then double pot-distilled and aged a minimum of two years in used sherry, port or oak casks. How do you know when this timehonored Gallic palate-cleanser has done its job? Suddenly, you’re absolutely ready for the next course.

five to try Calvados Roger Groult Réserve 3 Year Old Calvados Run today by a member of the fifth generation of the Groult family, JeanRoger, this producer in the heart of the Pays d’Auge farms about 57 acres planted with some 5,600 apple trees. One of its signature processes is double-distillation over a wood fire. It then ages its calvados in 100-yearold oak casks. This reserve-level calvados was named “world’s best” at the 2014 World Drinks Awards; it’s meant to be a pure expression of the fruit, enjoyed as an aperitif or within a cocktail, a combination of crisp green apple and caramel-vanilla. It’s also made in eight-year-old and 12-yearold versions.

Christian Drouin Fine Pays d’Auge Calvados Made in the Pays d’Auge by Guillaume Drouin, grandson of Christian Drouin Sr., this is the youngest of the producer’s appellation calvados, aged a minimum of three years. It possesses intriguing amounts of body and depth around classic notes of white flowers, caramel, vanilla and apple.

Christian Drouin Pommeau de Normandie A combination of three-quarters apple juice and one-quarter calvados, Pommeau is aged three to four years in oak and is lighter in alcohol than a typical straight-up calvados, at 17 percent instead of the more common

40 percent. This gives it a refreshing quality that’s ideal with food, or as an aperitif, while retaining that signature scent of baked apples and brown sugar. Served chilled in a tulip glass, it’s also a popular accent in cooking as well as a nice addition to cocktails, especially when paired with champagne or prosecco.

Domaine Louis Dupont Calvados VSOP Aged five years in oak barrels, a quarter of them new, this is just one of many worthy calvados produced by the Dupont family, another Pays d’Auge stalwart, which traces its roots in the region to 1703. Dupont’s use of new oak is provocative as well as innovative, but the wood flavors are balanced by striking tones of vanilla, almond and licorice. This is an effective digestif, enjoyed slowly after dinner.

Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy Founded in California’s Mendocino County in 1982 by Hubert GermainRobin, a native of Cognac, and Ansley Coale, Germain-Robin uses locally grown heirloom apple varieties such as Black Twig, Wickson and Ribston Pippin for this rare American apple brandy, distilling each variety separately, then blending distillates that range in age from six to 15 years. The calvados-inspired result is then aged in French Limousin oak. It tastes exquisitely of green apple with a floral back note and just a hint of butter.

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Profile for Wainscot Media

BOYDS: Fall/Winter 2015  

BOYDS: Fall/Winter 2015

BOYDS: Fall/Winter 2015  

BOYDS: Fall/Winter 2015