Washington Grown Magazine - September 2023

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Inland an Empire Creating Apple

2 WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023

Washington

grow 10

IT HARDLY SEEMS POSSIBLE that there was a time before Washington was known for The Best Apples on EarthTM, but, indeed, all mighty empires must endure humble beginnings.

European settlers considered apples (in all their forms: fresh, cooked, dried, sauced, and cider’d) a key component of civilized society, so they took them everywhere they went. In the mid-1800s, that meant European settlers brought their apple seeds and saplings to the Northwest, by way of the Oregon Trail. For several decades, settlers and their apple trees remained clustered in coastal cities like Portland and Seattle. But by the late 1800s, and with the arrival of the first transcontinental railroad, those cities were crowded, and settlers began flocking further inland to places like Yakima and Wenatchee.

In both of those towns, the apple industry started small, with most orchards smaller than 10 acres. The long, dry summers could be brutal, but farmers soon started to realize that trees planted near the Columbia and Yakima rivers produced exceptional fruit. Anywhere they could find sufficient water, farmers learned that the other growing conditions present made crops grow extremely well.

farmers
billion apples per year. But before the international reach and acclaim, orchardists in Yakima and Wenatchee put in the work to become the “Apple Capital of the World.”
WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023 3

By the 1890s, farmers literally began to take matters into their own hands, digging irrigation ditches with hand shovels to siphon water from the rivers into their fields. With the precious water reaching more and more acreage, farmers began to plant more and more apple orchards. As before, those trees grew strong and began to produce high quality fruit, noticeably larger and sweeter than the apples grown on the west side of the Cascades. When the railroads connected Yakima to Seattle in 1894, growers were able to ship their fruit to larger markets, and all the conditions were primed for an explosion of growth for apple orchards.

It didn’t take long for advertising initiatives to take root. Wenatchee growers shipped their first rail car of apples in 1901, and by 1902, the city was calling itself “The Apple Capital of the World.” In 1910, when Wenatchee growers produced an estimated 2,400 rail-car loads of apples, each case was accompanied by a brochure referring to Wenatchee as “The Home of the Big Red Apple, Where Dollars Grow on Trees.” One booklet promised “An apple orchard provides as sure an income as government bonds.”

Washington apple growers, in order to send the highest quality fruit to market, packed all their apples in wooden crates, by hand, rather than dumping them into the more prevalent apple barrels. Growers designed beautifully artistic labels for their apple boxes, many of which are now preserved as works of art. Those lithographed labels touted the Evergreen State as “America’s Delight,” “The Fruit Bowl of the Nation,” “Home of the Class-A Apples,” and “The Pride of the North.”

During the 1930s, the recently established Washington Apple Commission began promoting the state’s apple dominance by placing full-page advertisements in

popular national magazines like Life and Good Housekeeping. As time passed, their efforts intensified, and by 1960, the commission produced a pamphlet featuring a map showcasing the widespread distribution of Washington apples. These apples found their way into every state, with California, Texas, Illinois, New York, and Pennsylvania emerging as the largest consumers. Notably, the commission’s estimations revealed that the average Texan consumed approximately 38 Washington apples annually.

As the 1960s unfolded, the apple became an iconic symbol representing the state of Washington. “Washington Apple” imagery showed up everywhere, from highway signs to national television commercials to the trophy awarded during the college football rivalry game. The apple became synonymous with Washington agriculture and has remained so ever since.

In 2023, apples are grown in every county throughout the state and continue to be Washington’s most valuable crop, with more than $2 billion in annual sales, more than double that of second-place wheat. These days, it takes an estimated 40,000 pickers to harvest all of Washington’s apples, and the resulting fruit is packaged and shipped to every state in the U.S., along with more than 60 other countries. Long live the King of Washington fruits!

Sources:

Rader, Chris. “Wenatchee Is the Apple Capital of the World.” Wenatchee Chamber of Commerce, 2007, www.wenatcheewa.gov/visitor-info/history-and-culture/apple-capital-of-the-world/

Kershner, Jim. “Apple Farming in Washington.” History Link, 2021, www.historylink. org/File/21288.

“History of Washington Apples.” Washington Apple Commission, 6 Aug. 2021, waapple.org/history/.

The arrival of the railroads meant that farmers in Eastern Washington could ship their fresh apples to larger markets throughout the U.S.

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SEPTEMBER
WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE
2023

The Wenatchee Commercial Club claimed the city was “The Apple Capital of the World” in 1902 – and the name has stuck ever since.

Apple crate labels like these were intended to advertise fruit, but have been preserved as art pieces due to their colorful and intricate designs.

are a common sight in the farming communities along the Columbia.

In foreign markets like Malaysia, the brand of Washington Apples is synonymous with quality.

SEPTEMBER 2023 5
WASHINGTON GROWN
MAGAZINE

Chopper Dropper

CENTRAL WASHINGTON’S sprawling apple orchards owe their success not just to Mother Nature’s bounty, but also to the dedicated efforts of North Wind Aviation. Hovering above the lush landscapes, North Wind Aviation and its team of skilled helicopter pilots play a vital role in ensuring high-quality fruit reaches consumers’ hands. Ryan McDonald, the owner of this innovative company, takes pride in orchestrating unique flights that aid pollinators in their crucial mission.

Pollination is the essential process by which pollen from the male parts of a blossom travels to the female parts, kickstarting fertilization and ultimately leading to the development of juicy apples. In the wild, bees, butterflies, and birds are the unsung heroes behind this process. However, North Wind Aviation’s helicopter pilots soar to the skies to support these pollinators in their vital tasks.

[pollen]
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“What we are doing is acting like a giant bumblebee.”
NORTH WIND AVIATION WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023 7

“Hovering around is blowing a lot of air, and so what we are doing is acting like a giant bumblebee,” explains McDonald. While bees are exceptional pollinators, the helicopters make their job easier by reducing travel distances across vast orchards. As a bee lands on a blossom, it collects the excess pollen spread by the helicopters and carries it to another bloom, effectively completing the pollination process. This cross-pollination between separate trees is essential for growing big, flavorful fruit everyone loves.

The timing of pollination is crucial. Determining when an orchard is ready for this aerial dance is where North Wind Aviation relies on the expertise of seasoned fieldmen like Dan Winship. With extensive experience in the tree fruit industry, Winship’s discerning eye ensures that the orchards are in prime condition before the helicopters swoop in.

The helicopter pollination process unfolds with precision. A pilot and co-pilot take to the skies above the orchard. The co-pilot dispenses pre-metered packages of pollen into a funnel that feeds into a tube leading to the bottom of the helicopter. From there, the pollen is scattered across the orchard by the powerful gusts of air generated by the helicopter blades. Surprisingly, only 30 to 40 grams of pollen per acre of land are sufficient to work its magic, a testament to the potency of this yellow powder in growing some of the world’s finest fruit.

The meticulous teamwork involved in producing tree fruit cannot be understated. Every member of North Wind Aviation’s team plays a vital role in bringing apples to market, from the dedicated fieldmen assessing

the orchards’ readiness to the skilled helicopter pilots performing their impressive maneuvers.

McDonald’s passion for the industry and commitment to excellence have made North Wind Aviation an indispensable partner for apple growers across central Washington. Their aerial assistance, akin to a gentle breeze of life, has transformed the region’s orchards into a fruitful oasis. Thanks to their skill and dedication, consumers can continue to savor the taste of crisp, juicy apples grown with care and precision.

The story of North Wind Aviation is one of innovation and cooperation, where man and nature work hand in hand to produce the finest fruit imaginable. As we enjoy the delectable apples from the shelves, let us not forget the high-flying efforts that make this extraordinary harvest possible.

Sources:

Apples in Bloom. Washington Grown. Accessed July 25, 2023. (https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=0u6dbgvyNHU&t=219s)

Pollination. Washington State Unviersity. Accessed July 25, 2023. (https:// treefruit.wsu.edu/orchard-management/pollination/)

8 WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023
Ryan McDonald brings his helicopter very low over the trees before dropping the pollen, ensuring that the windy “prop wash” created by the spinning propellers will blow the pollen over every leaf and limb of the orchard.

KSPS (Spokane)

Mondays at 7:00 pm and Saturdays at 4:30 pm ksps.org/schedule/

KWSU (Pullman)

Fridays at 6:00 pm nwpb.org/tv-schedules/

KTNW (Richland)

Saturdays at 1:00 pm nwpb.org/tv-schedules

KBTC (Seattle/Tacoma)

Saturdays at 6:30 am and 3:00 pm kbtc.org/tv-schedule/

KIMA (Yakima)/KEPR (Pasco)/KLEW (Lewiston)

Saturdays at 5:00 pm kimatv.com/station/schedule / keprtv.com/station/schedule klewtv.com/station/schedule

KIRO (Seattle)

Mondays at 2:30 pm or livestream Saturdays at 2:30 pm on kiro7.com kiro7.com

NCW Life Channel (Wenatchee) Check local listings ncwlife.com

RFD-TV

Thursdays at 12:30 pm and Fridays at 9:00 pm (Pacific) rfdtv.com/

*Times/schedules subject to change based upon network schedule. Check station programming to confirm air times.

wagrown.com @wagrowntv Visit us online! Watch the show online or on your local station

NOMAD KITCHEN TIETON

• 1/2 cup quinoa (rinsed if not pre-rinsed)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

• 2 cups corn kernels, fresh or thawed

• 2 fresh thyme sprigs

• 1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1/2 teaspoon rose harissa spice blend or other dried harissa, more to taste

Apple

• 1/2 Cosmic Crisp apple, cored and thinly sliced

• 1/3 cup diced roasted red pepper

• 1/4 cup sliced green onion

• 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

• 1/2 cup diced carrot

• 1/4 cup pepitas (toasted pumpkin seeds)

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, divided

• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

Quinoa

Salad

Complexity: Easy • Time: 40 minutes • Serves: 4

This salad has a striking presentation in its original form, with cheese, edible flowers, chile thread, and other finishing touches. You can find that version of the recipe on the Washington Grown website. Here, we focus on the core salad, a delightful array of flavors and textures featuring quinoa, apple, and corn. Corn freshly cut from the ear will be best, but frozen corn makes a decent substitute.

Put 1 cup of water in a small saucepan and stir in the quinoa with a good pinch of salt. Bring the water just to a boil, stir gently, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the liquid is fully absorbed and the quinoa is tender, about 15 minutes. Stir the quinoa with a fork to fluff, then transfer it to a small bowl and set aside to cool.

Heat a large heavy skillet, such as cast iron, over medium-high heat. Add 1/2 tablespoon of the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan, then add the corn with a good pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook until lightly charred, stirring occasionally, 1 to 2 minutes (frozen corn may need an extra minute or two). Add the thyme sprigs and red onion, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the onion is tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer the corn to a medium bowl and stir in the rose harissa. Let cool, then remove the thyme sprigs. Add the apple, roasted red pepper, and green onion and toss to mix.

Stir the smoked paprika into the quinoa, then add the carrot, pepitas, 1 tablespoon of the sherry vinegar, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Toss well to mix. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and the lime juice to the corn mixture and toss to mix.Taste both mixtures for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, spoon the quinoa mixture onto plates, then spoon the corn-apple mixture over the quinoa.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023 11
INGREDIENTS

artists’haven

Located right in the heart of the Yakima Valley, Nomad Kitchen & Mercantile (formerly known as 617 Nomad) is a not-so-hidden gem found in the beautiful town of Tieton, Washington. Over the past few months, Nomad Kitchen has invested in expanding their space to encourage an intentional, com munal dining experience. You will be hard pressed to find a unique experience quite like theirs any where else.

Nomad Kitchen & Mercantile is unique in that it is a shared space between the Mercantile, which features outdoor and adventure-based lifestyle gear on one side, and the Kitchen, a communal dining space serving local, sea sonal food and beverage, on the other.

“It’s awesome to see people come into this quiet little town and say ‘why is this here? This is amazing,’” said owner and head chef Craig Singer.

Singer has crafted a menu that changes weekly with local produce found in the valley to focus on the freshest produce around. Nomad Kitchen works closely with their local farmers to create their mouthwatering menu. The result is carefully curated dishes boasting of vibrant flavor combinations that are true to the culture and community.

Not only does Nomad Kitchen feature the freshest produce in the valley, they also proudly partner with local artists who create the plates and tableware used in the restaurant, as well as the art that is displayed in the restaurant.

“Tieton has always had impressive ag. Lately, there’s been more of a transformation towards art,” said Singer.

Whether you are new to the area or a tried-andtrue local, the people of the Yakima Valley are lucky to have Nomad Kitchen & Mercantile as part of their community.

12 WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023
NOMAD KITCHEN TIETON

DID YOU KNOW?

ENTER
Visit our website and sign up to be entered into a drawing for a $25 gift certificate to Nomad Kitchen in Tieton! *Limit one entry per household 10 – 12 billion apples are harvested in Washington each year — if you put them all side by side, they would circle the earth 29 times. Washington growers produce six out of every 10 apples consumed in the United States. GAME CORNER
TO WIN!
ACROSS 2.Usually carried by bees from tree to tree 4.Growing region in southern Washington 5.Newest variety of Washington Apple 7.Transportation by rail 8.Washington’s #1 crop DOWN 1.Exported first trainload of apples in 1901 3.“The Apple _____ of the World” 6.The practice of bringing water to the fields START FINISH

LEGACY ORCHARDS WENATCHEE

Legacy Cosmic A

14 WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023
Scott McDougall gives Washington Grown host Kristi Gorenson a tour of the Cosmic Crisp orchard at the McDougall and Sons farm in Wenatchee.

In the heart of Washington state’s apple country, McDougall and Sons Legacy Orchards stand as a testament to the rich tradition of apple cultivation that has shaped the region’s agricultural landscape for generations. Among the many apple varieties that thrive on this land, one has captured consumers’ hearts and taste buds like no other – the Cosmic Crisp.

Five years ago, the team at Washington Grown had the privilege of visiting Legacy Orchards when the first Cosmic Crisp apple trees were planted. Securing these coveted trees at that time was challenging, as the farm received 17 acres worth of trees through a lottery process due to the state’s limited supply. The Cosmic Crisp, a true Washington state variety, was bred at the prestigious Washington State University, combining the best traits of the Enterprise and Honeycrisp varieties.

Since that initial planting, the Cosmic Crisp apple has seen meteoric popularity, with nearly 17 million trees planted in the past four years alone. The orchardists at Legacy have watched these trees mature. As the 2023 harvest season approaches in October, the anticipation is palpable.

Scott McDougall of McDougall and Sons, whose family has tended to these orchards for generations, is excited about the future of Cosmic Crisp apples. “There’s been a lot of hype on Cosmic,” he says.

One of the reasons for this excitement is the apple’s impressive hardiness and exceptional storage capabilities. The Cosmic Crisp is resilient and boasts a large size, a satisfying crunch, and a stunning bright red color, making it visually appealing to consumers.

But what truly sets the Cosmic Crisp apart is its dessert-quality taste, which has the potential to improve over time. McDougall shares his hopes for the future.

“We are just hoping that once these trees have settled down, the nitrogen’s pulled off, that some of the acids are going to convert to sugars, and that the dessert quality is just going to keep getting better and better.”

Growing Cosmic Crisp apples, however, is no simple task. It requires a combination of science, dedication, passion, and immense patience. Orchards like Legacy continually learn and adapt their practices to produce the finest fruit possible.

“We’re challenged to do the best we can with the right type of pruning and try to achieve maximum bins per acre but of quality fruit for the customer,” says McDougall.

Despite the challenges, McDougall finds immense joy in cultivating Cosmic Crisp apples. He explains, “There isn’t any one year that is the same, particularly with Mother Nature, and we have to be able to adapt. The thing that’s exciting is that things are constantly changing.”

Indeed, the growth of Cosmic Crisp apples at Legacy Orchards is a testament to agriculture’s dynamic nature and farmers’ willingness to embrace change.

As the once-tiny seedlings have matured into well-established adult trees, they proudly display their gorgeous pink blossoms, hinting at the delicious bounty that will soon be ready for harvest. The legacy of Cosmic Crisp at McDougall and Sons Legacy Orchards is a shining example of the innovation and dedication that characterizes Washington state’s apple industry.

In the years to come, as Cosmic Crisp apples continue to delight consumers with their exceptional taste and quality, the orchardists at Legacy and beyond will remain steadfast in their commitment to producing apples that represent the best of Washington state.

As we look forward to the upcoming harvest season, it is clear that the Cosmic Crisp is not just a fruit, but a symbol of the legacy and resilience of the McDougall and Sons Legacy Orchards and the wider Washington apple community.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2023 15

CSA yoursupportlocal

What is a CSA?

CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture.

And it’s a subscription box that you purchase directly through a local farm. The benefit for the farmer is that they get money up front at the beginning of the season so they can purchase things for the length of the season, like seeds or infrastructure that they need to grow their best. The benefit for you is you get to directly support a farmer, and you’re also eating seasonally.

What sort of produce will I receive?

Usually, the subscription lasts for about 20 weeks, but it varies from farm to farm. So you’ll experience everything from spring through summer and into fall.

Right now, in early fall, boxes might contain apples, pears, corn, carrots, garlic, and squash. And it’s different all throughout the length of your subscription. So the benefit for you is that you’ll get the freshest, most seasonal produce in your box.

Is the produce fresh?

With some CSAs, farmers harvest their produce the same morning that folks pick it up. They get to come out to the farm, they get to meet the farmer, and everyone can get to know each other over the course of the season. Then, the customer gets to take home the freshest seasonal produce available and enjoy it with their families at home.

The Washington Grown project is made possible by the Washington State Department of Agriculture and the USDA Specialty Crop Block Grant program, through a partnership with the state’s farmers.

Marketing Director

Brandy Tucker

Editor

Kara Rowe

Assistant Editor

Trista Crossley

Art Designer

Jon Schuler

Writers

Jon Schuler

Maya Aune

Cynthia Nims

Images

Nomad Kitchen

Washington Apple Commission

Washington Historical Society Shutterstock

Washington Grown

Executive Producers

Kara Rowe

David Tanner

Chris Voigt

Producer

Ian Loe

Hosts

Kristi Gorenson

Tomás Guzmán

Val Thomas-Matson

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